presence presence

TEXWORLD TRENDs TEAM
Under the artistic direction of Louis Gérin and Grégory Lamaud,
Texworld Art Directors, Texworld’s trends table creates the trends
of the future. Their trend team, composed of stylists, designers,
graphic designers, and writers offers each season an authentic
and original overview of tomorrow’s inspirational currents.
With wide opened eyes, they detect and bring in the starlight,
the moods of the future.
Editors & Trendsetters Louis Gérin & Grégory Lamaud
Artistic designer & Trendsetter Héloïse Joneaux
Text & Trendsetter Simon Antony
Graphic designer & Trendsetter Olympe Albert
Iconographic assistant & Trendsetter Marion Espiau
Translation Julia @Piatraduction
P RE SE NCE
Messe Frankfurt, Inc.
1600 Parkwood Circle, Suite 615
Atlanta, GA 30339
Phone: 770.984.8016
Fax: 770.984.8023
http://www.texworldusa.com
my texworld
TRENDS
spring summer 2016
NEW YORK issue
Dear Designers of the textile industry,
Today, when everything is globalized and news spreads at the speed of
light, the continuous image shown on our screens is acquired instinctively.
The truth or lie behind an image is revealed immediately: this is only the
beginning of the game.
By cross-referencing currents of opinion, aesthetic trends, social influences,
anthropological and artistic events, here we attempt to tell you a story,
your story, our story... The artist is the centre of the creative process, giving
form to the doubts and hopes of our civilizations. As such, it would seem
that the artist holds the truth.
Not the absolute truth, which probably does not exist, but the truth of a
view of the world. A sharing of perspectives, this is where we are taking
you. There are very many visionaries in this world; we leave it to each one
to interpret them in their own way.
Professional expertise for image, style, authors and the different
perspectives of creative individuals offer here an overall view of tomorrow’s
world : our trends.
We wish you a pleasant reading.
Louis Gérin & Grégory Lamaud
Art Directors Texworld
1
P R ESENCE
my texworld TRENDS
spring summer 2016 NEW YORK issue
We enter the era of appeasement. The end of a race without a finish line,
without a track even. We have gone back to our origins, tracking the
index of our future; we spontaneously projected ourselves in an uncertain
future, praying for the beginning of an answer to be outlined. But the
universe remained unsoundable, time unceasingly returned us to our
single reality: the present. We are done with fighting the windmills of
time, wasting nonrenewable energy, our own. Neither hope, nor despair.
A lifesaving release to finally taste the moment before the days’ taste
fades away. Yesterday hasn’t taught us anything, tomorrow hasn’t shown
us anything, only today remains and its eternity contained in the density
of one moment. The horizon of the events outlines an existentialist
epicureanism. To finally be completely present, because all reality has
slipped through our fingers, sand glass of our hopes, making way for a
hypothetical universe. Occurrence has become the only tangible landmark,
the age-long reference. We finally live in our time. To be has replaced to
become. The era of mindfulness.
summary
subversive analogy _________________________________________ 5
subtle amorphia ____________________________________________15
alter echo __________________________________________________ 25
inescapable hazards _______________________________________ 35
denim — intuitive process _________________________________ 44
star colors _________________________________________________ 47
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3
presence spring summer 2016
subversive analogy
4
Staircase-III, installation view, Tate Modern Gallery
© Do-Ho Suh, represented by Lehmann Maupin - www.lehmannmaupin.com
We travel in a bubble out of time, carried by the sole reality of the present.
Without amnesia, we are the children of a past which we take responsibility
for but refuse to repeat. In a digestion of knowledge, we open a path of pure
originality, a supra-realism, a new mash-up of our history. Inspired without
reproducing, the constraints of the cultures and the eras collapse into a sole
aggregate. Without future, the present becomes the ultimate summary of
humanity, a collision of knowledge, new compression of the human identity.
While we are aware of the uselessness and the disaster of the past, we do
not forget anything, but divert everything. The icon is dead and the altar
of our worship arises blindly, accommodating creation without judgment.
The experiment is no longer a means, but the noblest goal, that of a time
aware that it has nothing else to do but live and try. We have left all known
paths and are tracing a new one. Happiness is not part of the destination,
but of the road.
5
presence spring summer 2016
subversive analogy
bandaloop
andrew simpson
bandaloop.org
andrewsimpson.net
Bound(less) - New World Symphony, Miami Beach
Dancers: Rachael Lincoln, Damara Ganley and Anje Lockhart - Photo Credit: Atossa Soltani
© BANDALOOP - www.facebook.com/projectbandaloop - @bandalooping - www.bandaloop.org
It is quite simply a new definition of freedom, a reappropriation of the
universe so deep that neither gravity, nor verticality seem to exist. A world
where imagination draws a new reality that Lewis Carroll himself would have
called a fantasy. While shouting “the sky is not the limit” at the face of the
world, Bandaloop quite simply reinvents the universe, imposing a truth: the
present is infinite. The limits of our future have followed the limits of our
prospects. Bandaloop experiments and invents, hustles the perspectives,
causes change, orders thoughts and makes any stagnation impossible.
6
Junk Press
© Andrew Simpson - andrewsimpson.net
Transforming waste into everyday objects, like instant recycling, immediate
reincarnation, is not only a total upending of values, but also means
reinterpreting our past and rewriting our future. Andrew Simpson is an
artist of his time, aware of 3D printing and the latest software, but he
uses ancestral crafts. A dance between the usual know-how and original
foresight. An approach freed from any influence, growing a tree never seen
on a ground nourished by history.
7
© INSA - www.insaland.com
8
Maze 44, 2012. Acrylic and spray on canvas, 190x190cm
© Michael Sailstorfer
© Thinkstock
© Scarlett Hooft Graafland
Michael Hoppen Contemporary Gallery
Ready Steady Go
© Frauke Thielking - www.frauking.de
Answer Machine by Jim Lambie
installation view, at Sadie Coles HQ, London, 2014
© Jim Lambie - courtesy : Sadie Coles HQ, London
In Return - Gus ter Beek & Tayfun Sarier. Brick Lane
www.streeteraser.com - www.in-return.com
01 Appeased Alarm
02 Alchemical Shoots
03 Granitic Extent
04 Crystal Clear Azure
05 Evanescent Reflexions
06 Confused Constellation
07 Sandy Density
08 Original Sublimation
9
09 Obvious Gap
presence spring summer 2016
subversive analogy
feelings & materials
Mechanical Overtones
In Return - Gus ter Beek & Tayfun Sarier.
Shoreditch High Street
www.streeteraser.com - www.in-return.com
© INSA - www.insaland.com
Collaborative Cooking
© Christian Isberg & Petter Kukaćka
www.christianisberg.com - www.pjadad.com
Musical craftman Andy Cavatorta, Cold War Kids band
and Stella Artois brand. The chalice symphony - star harp
www.andycavatorta.com - www.stellaartois.com
Maze 19, 2011. Newspaper cut-out and spray
paint on canvas, 190x230cm
© Michael Sailstorfer
Rebellious Dynamic
Binary Aesthetics
Présentation presse du programme de la 48ème
édition du Montreux Jazz Festival,
au théâtre L’Arsenic (Lausanne)
© CAUBOYZ
Arch Typology
© Thinkstock
Subjective Nothingness
© Thinkstock
Primitive Veil
color affinity
Scholar Assembly
Puzzled Surrealism
Aspects
Protective bubble - Deformed reproduction - Pure originalities
Supra Realistic lines - Condensed knowledge - Blind diversions
New icons - Noble experiments - Intimate sweetness
Unbridgeable veils - Spontaneous sketch - Reassuring comfort
Reappropriation of the space - Modified perspective - Non stagnant
Immediate recycling - Technological touch - Reinvented crafts
FIBERS
Obvious technicality - Resistant lightness - Soft touch - Mix of genres
Fragile opacity - Visual confusion - Raw and modern
Delicate structure - Audacious mixture - Unpredictable thickness
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11
12
LE CHANT DES QUARTZ LAURA COUTO ROSADO 2013
©HEAD Dylan Perrenoud
Innovating Anarchy
Emancipated Icon
Unusual Ritual
First Conformism
Ingenuous Deviance
Naive Uprising
Passive Stagnation
Hazardous Instinct
Supra-Realism
Codified Wandering
13
presence spring summer 2016
subtle amorphia
14
Glass sculpture, 2014
© Jeff Zimmerman, R & Company - www.r-and-company.com
Having become contemplative of a present as the sole incarnation of our
reality, the fixedness would resonate like a prison for us and for a future which
we know not to be predictable. Our environment becomes evolutionary to
offer the freedom of possibility to these beings which merely live in the
moment. Stiffness and certainty are out of this world, each second is its
own universe, independent, unique. Everything is created, as if resulting
from nothing, at every moment and is put out immediately to make way for
a new birth. We live on a beach where the waves of the present constantly
wash up and erase new futures. Everything is possible and nothing is for
sure. Not wanting to elude any future, to show any preference while we let
go, we create a field of possibilities as vast as the eternity of the moment.
15
presence spring summer 2016
subtle amorphia
floto + warner
monolitt
flotowarner.com
syverlauritzsen.tumblr.com
Colourant
© Floto + Warner - flotowarner.com
Liquid, absolute symbol of letting go, fitting the shape of its host, adapting,
accepting every environment. The element of Amor Fati. Personification
of our time, liquid glorifies itself, becomes a bouquet of colors, a burst of
emotions. Instantaneous and furtive. The New York artist-couple seizes the
fleeting of a moment, time in perpetual and rapid movement, imperceptible
change, the beauty of which must be captured while appreciating that grace
merely emerges and never lingers. A blast of possibilities offering fugitive
and eternal epiphany.
16
MONOLITT project
© Syver Lauritzsen & Eirik Haugen Murvold
Nobody knows what the piece will look like. It is placed in the hands of
the inhabitants. Each tweet, each message develops an additional layer.
But in this evolutionary work, it is the content of the message itself which
determines the colors used. Reflecting the mood of the inhabitants of the city
and allowing, in real time, to draw the state of mind of a locality at a given
moment. Nothing is fixed, nothing is cold. The evolution of our emotions
draw the profile of a city, through rational words and arguments.
17
18
2014P-07, 2014. Acrylic on linen on panel. 22,5x22,5“
© Anoka Faruqee - www. anokafaruqee.com
Diary 13. Digital Print
© Andreas Schimanski - www.schimanski.net
Extruded type : Beyond, 2011.
© Keetra Dean Dixon - www.fromkeetra.com
Out of the cage
Gala Fernandez for Marion Friedmann Gallery
photograph by Fernando Etulain
www.marionfriedmann.com
Christopher Bolten for Recom Farmhouse
Chromogenic print, 50x50cm
www.recomfarmhouse.com
Soap Arrangements
© Anna Mackenzie - www.annamackenzie.net
AMOEBA Trainer
© Shamees Aden - www. shameesaden.com
10 Cold futility
11 Sweetened Brew
12 Syrupy Gelatine
13 Whizzing Marshmallow
14 Galvanized Ivory
15 Soapy Acid
16 Sour Radiation
17 Spectral Fluidity
19
18 Aromatic Contusion
presence spring summer 2016
subtle amorphia
feelings & materials
Rigid Expansion
Invasive Washing
In Return - Gus ter Beek & Tayfun Sarier.
Shoreditch High Street
www.streeteraser.com - www.in-return.com
© Thinkstock
© Lucas Blalock, represented by Ramiken Crucible
www.ramikencrucible.com
Shattered Protuberance
Watered Radiance
© Thinkstock
© Black Crow Studios
www.blackcrowstudios.com
Winding Acuteness
Impossible Non-Object of Desire, 2010.
© Lyndsay Lawson - www.lyndsaylawson.com
© Thinkstock
Photograph by Jo Duck
Art direction Bompas & Parr
Magnetic Shiver
color affinity
Spongy Cluster
Artificial Opalescence
Aspects
Slightly acid - Evolutionary design - Immediate fixation
Forgotten rigidity - Frank overlappings - Motionless liquid
Colored explosion - Furtive interventions - Short-lived beauty
Imperceptible change - Chemical frenzy - Artistic softness
Targeted coating - Expanding material - Optical prints
Opposition of materials - Lacquer in relief - Uncertain movement
FIBERS
Hazardous extensibility - Experimental composition - Ultra Shine
Multiple layers - Subtle intelligence - Magnetic Resistance
Multi-properties - Creative malleability - Colored partially - Perfect transparency
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22
© Alicja Kwade represented by Johann König Gallery, Berlin
www.johannkoenig.de
Slightly Acid Memory
Pointless Malleability
Distorted Controversy
Delicate Distortion
Compressed Subtlety
Unannounced Movement
Formal Vacuity
Skillful Modelling
Fickle Undulation
Aqueous Moldings
23
presence spring summer 2016
alter echo
24
Glitch Photography
© Sabato Visconti - www.sabatobox.com
We are no longer dispersed between the desire of the past and hope
of the future, we completely live in our time. A presence so dense that
our incarnation exceeds our only envelope. We project our being on our
environment, and the latter, as the sole interlocutor, reflects our own desires
in an anthropomorphic dialogue. Manufactured coldness no longer has its
place in a universe which is satisfied by the moment only. The present having
become our single vision, we load it with warmth and feelings. We equip
it like our only home. Emotion perspires in an environment freed from the
rational which has merely led to an uncertain future. Each object becomes
an extension of our being, engraining the human in its present a little more.
A shift as unperceived as it is real.
25
presence spring summer 2016
alter echo
sabato visconti
“sparked“
Sabatobox.com
flyingmachinearena.org/sparked
Glitch Photography
© Sabato Visconti - www.sabatobox.com
The photographs, too clear, too polished, too perfect, become artificial
because of this. The Brazilian artist upsets technology and infuses it with
human imperfection. This blur which gives the photograph a soul, which
creates good, almost involuntarily. A graphic design born from chaos, from
experimenting. In this meander, everyone perceives what they wish for, like
a mirror designed by Rorschach. Dialogue thus becomes possible through
a photo removed from its stability. Coldness is no longer attractive.
26
The first interaction between the repairman and the flying lampshades.
© “Sparked“ Team - www.flyingmachinearena.org/sparked
It is a sort of modern version of the tale of Carlo Lorenzini. Life is breathed
into an element which one only knows to be cold, mechanical. But these high
precision drones are equipped, luminous, have become anthropomorphic
personalities, reflections of childish fantasies. The mechanical cold answers
human gestures, draws a ballet the harmony of which defies, or rather
accompanies, human creation in these nobler intentions. Our environment
has come alive.
27
© Thinkstock
Patch of sky, 2014.
© Fabrica - www.fabrica.it
Scarabee
© Jean-Baptiste Fastrez - www.jeanbaptistefastrez.com
28
Uno Studio
© Massimo Uberti - www.massimoubert.it
21 Venous Beam
Glitch Photography
© Sabato Visconti - www.sabatobox.com
Big Dipper
© Michael Candy - www.michaelcandy.com
Rain (Reduction), 2012.
Fluoresecnt Lights, filters. 120x190cm.
© James Clar - www.jamesclar.com
19 Stellar Propagation
20 Alkaline Tides
23 Synthetic Skin
22 Scarabaeid Splendor
24 Powdered Flash
25 Pale Fluctuations
26 Fake Star
29
27 Radiant Ether
presence spring summer 2016
alter echo
feelings & materials
Armored Mirage
photgraph : Mac Calarco - maccalarco.tumblr.com
artist : Heath West - heathwest.net
Colour light, detail.
© Chris Wood - www.chriswoodglass.co.uk
© Thinkstock
Numerical Empathy
© Thinkstock
Intel + SMS audio + Sid Iee
Hear Bot
sidlee.com
WINK, 2013.
© Masakazu Shirane + Saya Miyasaki
Stormy Illusion
Holographic Feeling
Sacarabee
© Jean-Baptiste Fastrez - www.jeanbaptistefastrez.com
Figurative Layout
Paint your target
© Peter Stewart - www.peterstewartphotography.com
Passionate Interaction
color affinity
Chimerical Projection
Discontinuous Jumble
Aspects
Interactive reflections - Colored vibration - Iridescent Effect - Mirror surface
Image transfer - Complex weavings - Digital Propagation - Interrupted assembling
Technological fuzziness - Involuntary developments - Chaotic graphics
Imperceptible composition - Sound effects - Scientific diversions
Childish reflections - Complex engineering - Continuous Line - Vibrant knits
FIBERS
Intelligent and bright - Conductive sweetness - Dynamic interweaving
Artificial reorganization - Obvious absence - Imperfect Shine - Reflective sheating
Punctate hatchings - Reassuring thinness - Preserved nobility
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31
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Freefall, 2011. Dimensions variable. Fluoresecents lights, acrylic tubes and light filters.
© James Clar - www.jamesclar.com
Retinal Fragmentation
Identity Replicas
Visual Sonority
Inhuman Perceptions
Invisible Vision
Echoing Emotion
Random Gradation
Sequential Resonance
Insufflated Arrhythmia
Incarnated Pulsations
33
presence spring summer 2016
inescapable hazards
34
Slash Lamp
© Ubikubi - www.ubikubi.ro
Still fragile in our presence in the moment, in our release, we are tempted
to look over the wall of the future. As we cannot leave today, we attract
tomorrow. Precipitating the erosion, the inescapable in order to finally
perceive this future that we are denied. An acceleration of time dictated by
our impatience and our anchored desire to choose and take action. A refusal
of the pleasure of the moment and a cynical growth in the shade of our fears
born from frustrated desires. A Memento Mori that we whisper into our own
ears as if the joy of contemplation were too soft for a being nourishing its
creation with its sufferings. A masochistic but creative projection.
35
presence spring summer 2016
inescapable hazards
michel lamoller
ed spence
michel-lamoller.com
edspence.tumblr.com
Tautochronos. 10 C-type prints, 2014
© Michel Lamoller
The artist reveals the shadows. The shadow of the wear and tear of the
present. The shadow of our clothing masking a forgotten reality. The shadow
of our desires which seek nudity with as much certainty as they seek to
camouflage it. But Michel Lamoller does not reveal himself, like an epiphany
that is too obvious, like the sudden flash of a new reality. No, Michel Lamoller
cuts out, erodes, lets the shadow come to us, as if to clear himself of any
action in a time when we are not meant to leave the present, the artist opens
the door to the future.
36
Infinite Updates, Unlimited Artifacts V, 2014. Cut and paste, digitally printed archival paper.
© Ed Spence
Contemplation has a limit: that of creation. Living in the present requires
leaving things as they are. Ed Spence thus contents himself with rearranging,
rethinking reality. By carving out the moment and reorganizing it according
to his vision, he maintains an illusion of temporality, of a futuristic structure
with elements never having left the unchanging present. A way of recalling
that the present, if it is not to be modified, can be apprehended with
a new eye, an eye which will always allow man to create from the
ever-lasting moment.
37
© Thinkstock
38
Infinite Updates, Unlimited Artifacts V, 2014.
Cut and paste, digitally printed archival paper.
© Ed Spence
© Tisha Cherry - instagram.com/tishacherry
© Thinkstock
Millefeuille Sculpture
© Alexandra Engelfriet - www.alexandra-engelfriet.nl
collection S/S 2014
© Alon Livne
Magnetic Field Energy. Oil on canvas
© Yrjö Edelmann, Galleri GKM - www.gkm.se
Commode Inner Vortex, 2013
Aluminium. Limited edition of 8 + 4 AP
© Vincent Dubourg
Courtesy of Carpenters Workshop Gallery
28 Stormy Omen
29 Clear-sightedness
30 Rosacea Wear
31 Mellow Fog
32 Precipitated Dawn
33 Estimated Dust
34 Impatient Chaos
35 Land of Omen
39
36 Blazing Breakdown
presence spring summer 2016
inescapable hazards
feelings & materials
© Thinkstock
© Thinkstock
Slash Lamp
© Ubikubi. www.ubikubi.ro
For What it’s worth - Tweefontein Mine, Concordia
(1887 to 1904) - 8,747.7 tonnes of copper extracted
© Dillon Marsh - www.dillonmarsh.com
Layered Wax Type, 2009.
© Keetra Dean Dixon & Jonathan Keller Keller
www.fromkeetra.com
Voluntary Erosion
Itinerant Abrasion
Layered Wax Type, 2009. (detail)
© Keetra Dean Dixon & Jonathan Keller Keller
www.fromkeetra.com
Uncontrolled Growth
Pigmented Layers
This is more Powerful. Oil on canvas.
© Yrjö Edelmann, Galleri GKM. www.gkm.se
Crumpled Alumina
Porcelain eggs
© Kaja Woelky
Mineral Dissection
color affinity
Subjective Dissimulation
Delicate Concretion
Aspects
Controled ruffled - Splendid wear - Palpable erosion - Mineral feeling
Innovating deconstruction - Apparent stratifications - Natural cracks
Mineral coatings - Irregular facets - Rigid delicacy - Multiple superpositions
Breakable heart - Semi powdered - Shade & Light - Interlaced nuances
Worn accumulation - Futuristic composition
FIBERS
Structured essence - Agglomerated heart - Simple minerality
Instinctive arrangements - Worn beauty - Magnified Risks
Visible abrasion - New assemblies - Contemporary formula - Rough nature
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Infinite Updates, Unlimited Artifacts V, 2014. Cut and paste, digitally printed archival paper.
© Ed Spence
Eager Prospective
Paradoxical Destruction
Timeless Crack
Impatient Innovation
Precipitated Dislocation
Impromptu Violence
Ephemeral Stripping
Eluded Composition
Systematic Deconstruction
Hasty Degradation
43
presence spring summer 2016
denim — intuitive process
Anda
© Tehila Guy - www.tehilaguy.com
© Thinkstock
Multi-colored Wedge
© Eric Cahan - www.ericcahan.com
denim — intuitive process
01 appeased alarm
22 scarabaeid splendor
35 land of omen
Shelf (oak). 2014
© Jalmari Laihinen - www.byjalmari.com
44
© Thinkstock
Impacting Dialogue
Unforeseen Effusion
Textured Inclusion
Sudden Halo
Physical Blur
Structural Tear
Dichotomic Movement
Fortuitous Hardscape
Voluntary Chromatopsy
Diaphanous Saturation
© Black Crow Studios - www.blackcrowstudios.com
10 cold fluidity
45
10 cold futility
star colors
TExWOrLD TRENDS
new york issue
SS 2016
01 appeased alarm
23 synthetic skin
24 powdered flash
15 soapy acid
13 Whizzing Marshmallow
17 SPECTRAL FLUIDITY
18 AROMATIC CONTUSION
47
29 Clear-sightedness
presence spring summer 2016
01 Appeased Alarm
02 Alchemical Shoots
03 Granitic Extent
04 Crystal Clear Azure
05 Evanescent Reflexions
06 Confused Constellation
07 Sandy Density
08 Original Sublimation
09 Obvious Gap
16-1620 TCX
18-0110 TCX
17-0613 TCX
15-5218 TCX
12-5410 TCX
18-4231 TCX
13-0607 TCX
12-0710 TCX
19-5708 TCX
subtle amorphia
10 Cold Futility
11
Sweetened Brew
12 Syrupy Gelatine
13 Whizzing Marshmallow
14 Galvanized Ivory
15 Soapy Acid
16 Sour Radiation
17 Spectral Fluidity
18 Aromatic Contusion
11-4805 TCX
15-5217 TCX
15-1717 TCX
11-1408 TCX
11-0604 TCX
13-0650 TCX
13-0648 TCX
17-3930 TCX
18-3945 TCX
alter echo
19 Stellar Propagation
20 Alkaline Tides
21 Quartz Fog
22 Scarabaeid Splendor
23 Synthetic Skin
24 Powdered Flash
25 Pale Fluctuations
26 Fake Star
27 Radiant Ether
19-4044 TCX
18-4051 TCX
17-4328 TCX
18-4535 TCX
15-1316 TCX
13-1008 TCX
14-0446 TCX
12-0740 TCX
11-0410 TCX
inescapable hazards
28 Stormy Omen
29 Clear-sightedness
30 Rosacea Wear
31 Mellow Fog
32 Precipitated Dawn
33 Estimated Dust
34 Impatient Chaos
35 Land of Omen
36 Blazing Breakdown
19-4241 TCX
15-4225 TCX
16-1708 TCX
16-3307 TCX
12-2903 TCX
16-0906 TCX
19-0810 TCX
19-1116 TCX
18-2043 TCX
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current PANTONE FASHION+HOME publications for accurate color. Pantone LLC is a wholly-owned subsidiary of X-rite, Incorporated. ©Pantone LLC,2011.
All rights reserved.
subversive analogy