in London - UK Hospitality
Transcription
in London - UK Hospitality
COVER:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 4:06 PM Page 1 Live in EXCURSIONS London AROUND BRITAIN Steam Dreams Wild Life Parks Houses & Gardens Thames Flood Future Arts & Crafts EXCURSIONS ISSUE 33 £3.50 March / April 2011 page 2:Layout 1 2/25/2011 2:26 PM Page 1 Portrait Books A Photographic Excursion Around Britain hree ultimate coffee table books about Britain. Each one containing over 160 pages and over 300 stunning photographs on art paper by world renowned photographer Steve Vidler and words by expert travel writers. Bound in a hard cover, size 12 x 10.5 inches. A superb gift for anyone captivated by the beauty and heritage of Britain. Volumes have been written about Britain and its people and what defines the nation and its quintessential character and yet, until now no photographic books have covered all the essential destinations in what is, for its size, the most visited tourist destination on the planet. Steve Vidler’s skill with the camera, coupled with a work ethic that gets him unerringly to the right place at the right time, every time, has resulted in the three definitive books of photographs on iconic Britain. T Portrait of England - £20.00 Portrait of London £20.00 Portrait of Great Britain £25.00 SUBSCRIBE TO EXCURSIONS MAGAZINE And recieve a FREE copy of any one of Steve Vidlers ‘PORTRAIT’ books, magnificent 12 x 10.5 inch coffee table books each with approx 300 superb photographs. (£30.00 UK offer only) Subscribe me to the next 6 issues of Excursions Magazine and send me a copy of: PORTRAIT OF..................................................with my first magazine. I enclose a cheque for £30.00 payable to ‘Magnet PublishingLtd’ You can also telephone to pay by card 020-7424-0027 Name.......................................................................................................................... Address....................................................................................................................... .................................................................................................................................... .................................................................................................................................... Tel:....................................................email................................................................. Send cheques or telephone to pay by card. 020-7424-0027 Available from Magnet Publishing Ltd, 28 Grafton Terrace, London NW5 4JJ page 3:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 3:54 PM Page 1 EXCURSIONS w w w. E x c u r s i o n s U K . c o m ISSN 2041- 4706 Editorial contributions are welcome and whilst every care is taken of material submitted we cannot accept responsibility for its loss or damage, nor do we accept responsibility for the opinions expressed by contributors. Issue No. 33 Cover image The Cathedrals Express - Steam Dreams IN THIS ISSUE 7 CITY CRUISES Discover the pleasure of dining and dancing as you cruise down the River Thames. Publishing Editor Production Editor 8 A STROLL ON THE SOUTHSIDE Peter Stevenson takes you on a walk along the South Bank of the Thames from Tower Bridge to Lambeth Bridge. Features Editor Associate Editor 12 Chief Photographer Contributors 14 16 Advertising IT & Webmaster 18 20 FLOODS FROM THE FUTURE Colin Gordon delves into the statistics and forecast for the future of the Thames and the need to build a new barrier down river. BRIGHTON - AN AWAY DAY Acrise Faulkner visits Brighton and re-discovers the pleasures of this vibrant seaside town just an hour from London. THE ISLE OF WIGHT A Spring Gala on the 40th anniversary of the IOW Steam Railway PENRYHN CASTLE Paul Brett takes a trip to Bangor in North Wales and explores the ramparts and rooms of this historic castle. TRANSPORTED BACK IN TIME, STEAM DREAMS. Wine and dine on the Cathedral Express from Victoria Station or explore the Quantock hills and Exmoor with the West Somerset Railway. Editorial and Advertising Address all correspondence editorial and advertising material to The Publisher. Magnet Publishing Ltd. 28 Grafton Terrace, London NW5 4JJ Tel: 020-7424-0027 E-mail [email protected] Trade distribution by Native Publisher Services Unit 9 Lidget Hill, Pudsey Leeds LS28 7LG Excursions 27 33 34 WILDLIFE ROUND-UP Marwells exotic animals - Hawks and Horses - RSPB nature reserves - Wildlife and Wetland areas. LIVING CRAFTS A major event in May at Hertfordshire House WHERE TO STAY And wine and dine 3 page 4 - 5 - 6:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 10:27 AM Page 1 Excursions Around Britain Welcome and enjoy your visit. Now that the winter blues has gone and summer is just around the corner it surely is time to be thinking about a holiday or short break. Forget about the recession and the cost of booking a foreign holiday, just take the opportunity to discover that after all, Britain is best for excursions. Whether you live in the capital or are thinking of visiting it you can find out that we have more to offer in culture and things to do than anywhere else on the planet. What’s more, the scenery of the south coast and peaks of Wales and the North of England and Scotland are all within easy reach for an excursion or short break. In the following pages you can find a taster of some of the places to visit and things to do. If you are visiting the country for the first time, welcome, enjoy it and tell your friends about Janine Drayson Tel 01929 426290 www.jdillustration.co.uk Julia Mills Gallery & Workshop Tel 01326 569340 www.juliamillsgallery.co.uk Living Crafts Hatfield House, Herts, Tel 02392863871 www.livingcrafts.co.uk ANGLING Rockbourne Trout Fishery Near Fordingbridge, Hampshire SP6 1QG, Tel 01725 518 603 www.rockbournetroutfishery.co.uk GOLF Burhill Golf Club Burwood Road, Walton On Thames, Surrey, KT12 4BX www.burhillgolf-club.co.uk WALKING Walk Scotland CNDo Scotland Ltd, 33 St E.P., Stirling FK7 7RP, Tel 01786 445 703 www.cndoscotland.com ARTS & CRAFTS Craft Arena Studios 48 & 55, Barleylands Craft Village, Barleylands Road, Billericay, Essex CM11 2UD 01268 523780 www.craftarena.co.uk Crossing Borders www.crossing-borders.org.uk Days Hotel Hounslow – Heathrow East 8-10 Lampton Road, Hounslow TW3 1JL, Tel 0208 5381 230 City Cruises Tel 02077 400 400 www.citycruises.com Thames Riverboat Cruises Tel 020 7930 2062 www.wpsa.co.uk GROUP BOOKING AGENTS Airedale Tours Tel 0808 161 1660 www.airedaletours.co.uk Days Hotel Waterloo 54 Kennington Road, London SW19 3QW, Tel 0207 922 1441 [email protected] Dunkerley’s Restaurant & Hotel 19 Beach Street, Deal, Kent CT14 7AH, Tel 01304 375016 www.dunkerleys.co.uk Travelsphere Tel 08457585007 HOTELS & ACCOMODATION Alverton Manor Tregolis Road, Truro, Cornwall, Tel 01872 276633 www.alvertonmanor.co.uk The Enchanted Manor St Catherine’s Point, Sandrock Road, Niton, Isle Of Wight PO38 2NG, Tel 01983 730215 www.enchantedmanor.co.uk Mallinson’s Workshop Higher Holditch Farm, Holditch, West Dorset TA20 4NL, Tel 01460 221 102 www.mallinson.co.uk Nautilus Design Tel 01525 874055 www.nautilusdesign.co.uk The Georgian Hotel 87 Gloucester Place (near Baker Street), London W1u 6JF, Tel 01480 212898 www.georgianhotel-london.co.uk Red Gate Gallery 209a Coldharbour Lane, London SW9 8RU Tel 020 7326 0993 www.redgategallery.co.uk The Goodenough Guest House 4 Goodenough Road, Wimbledon, London SW19 3QW 020 8715 7945 www.larsol.demon.co.uk Royal Crown Derby Visitor Centre 194 Osmaston Road, Derby, DE23 8JZ, Tel 01332 712 833/885 www.royalcrownderby.co.uk Somerset Art Works Yeovil, Tel 01458 253800 www.somersetartworks.org.uk West Dean College Tel 01243 811301 www.westdean.org.uk Away4awhile Tel 0845 644 5144 Blakes Boats Tel 0845 268 7600 www.blakes.co.uk Brunel’s SS Great Britain Tel 0117 926 0680 www.ssgreatbritain.org Bywater Hotelboat Cruises Tel 07775850098 www.bywaterhotelboats.co.uk 4 CANAL BOATS Applebys Coaches www.applebyscoaches.co.uk BOATING FiFi by Fiona Howard Tel 01273731646 www.fifibyfionahoward.com The Dartmoor Lodge Peartree Cross, Ashburton, Dartmoor, Devon, Tel 01364 652 232 www.dartmoorlodge.co.uk COACH TOUR OPERATORS www.excursionsUK.com ACTIVITIES Snaygill Boats Ltd Skipton Road, Bradley, Skipton, North Yorkshire BD20 9HA, Tel 01756 795150 www.snaygillboats.co.uk Grapevine Hotel 115/117 Warwick Way, Victoria, London SW1V 4HT 020 7834 0134 www.grapevinehotel.com Balmer Lawn Hotel Lyndhurst Road, Brockenhurst, Hampshire SO42 7ZB, Tel 01590 623116 www.balmerlawnhotel.com Bourne Hall Hotel 14 Priory Road, West Cliff, Bournemouth BH2 5DN, Tel 01202 299715 www.bournehall.co.uk Crystal Hotel 42 Tavistock Place, London WC1H 9RE, Tel 020 7837 3077 Dalmacia Hotel 71 Shepherd’s Bush Road, Hammersmith, London W6 7LS, Tel Tel: 0207 603 2887 www.dalmacia-hotel.co.uk The Georgian Hotel is a traditional hotel in the heart of London. It provides a home from home atmosphere in quality rooms within a traditional Georgian seing. Located just minutes from Baker Street, and within walking distance of Oxford Street, Regents Park, Hyde Park, and the exclusive doctors' quarter of Harley Street, it provides a picturesque base for sightseeing, business trips, and family stays. 87 Gloucester Place, (near Baker Street) London, W1U 6JF Phone : 01480 212898 Fax : 01480 212880 [email protected] Excursions page 4 - 5 - 6:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 Hotel Ibis 47 Lillie Road, Earl’s Court SW6 1UD, Tel 02076100880 www.ibishotel.com/gb/hotel-5623ibis-london-earls-court/index.shtml Hotel Metropole Station Road, Padstow, Cornwall PL28 8DB, Tel 0800 005 3903 www.the-metropole.co.uk Lasswade Country House Llanwrtd Wells, Powys, Tel 01591 610515 www.lasswadehotel.co.uk Leeds Castle Maidstone, Kent ME17 1PL Tel 01622 765400 www.leeds-castle.com Bourne Hall Hotel 14 Priory Road, West Cliff, Bournemouth, BH2 5DN Tel: 01202 299715 Fax: 01202 552669 [email protected] www.bournehall.co.uk 10:27 AM Page 2 Rosemundy House Hotel Rosemundy, St Agnes, Cornwall, Tel 01872 552101 Space Apart Hotel Hyde Park, London, Tel 020 7908 1340 www.spaceaparthotel.com Ramster Garden and Tea House Ramster, Chiddingfold, Surrey GU8 4SN, Tel 01428 654167 www.ramsterweddings.co.uk UMI Hotel 64 Kings Road, Brighton, East Sussex BN1 1NA, Tel 0800 0778041 www.umihotels.co.uk Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh Inverleith Row, Edinburgh EH3 5LR, Tel 0131 552 7171 www.rbge.org.uk UMI Hotel 16 Leinster Square, Bayswater, London W2 4PR, Tel 02072219131 www.umihotels.co.uk MUSEUMS & HERITAGE Undiscovered Lincolnshire Tel 01507 600743 www.visitthewolds.uwclub.net Bamburgh Castle Bamburgh, Northumberland, NE69 7DF, Tel 01668 214 515 www.bamburghcastle.com Vandon House 1 Vandon Street SW1H OAH, Tel 0207 799 6780 www.vandonhouse.com Award winning wines, ciders and apple juice Open throughout the year Free admission & tastings www.biddendenvineyards.com Tel: 01580 291726 The Lismoyne Hotel The Fleet, Hampshire Tel 01252 628 555 Woodlands Hotel & Restaurant 379-381 Hagley, Birmingham B17 8DL, Tel 0121 420 2341 www.thewoodlandshotel.co.uk Manor House Hotel Fowley Cross, Nr Okehampton, Devon, EX20 4NA, Tel 01837 53053 www.manorhousehotel.co.uk Yarn Market Hotel High Street, Dunster, Somerset TA24 6SF, Tel 01643 821 425 www.yarnmarkethotel.co.uk Mapledurham House Mapledurham, Reading RG4 7TR, Tel 0118 9723350 www.mapledurham.co.uk HOUSES & GARDENS Mermaid Inn Mermaid Street, Rye, East Sussex TN31 7EY Biddenden Vineyards Tel 01590 291726 www.biddendenvineyars.com Park Inn Hyde Park, Tel 020 7479 2505 www.hydepark.parkinn.co.uk Brogdale Farm Brogdale Road, Faversham, Kent ME13 8XZ, Tel 01795 536250 www.brogdalecollections.co.uk Ramada Docklands ExCeL, 2 Festoon Way, London E16 1RH www.ramadadocklands.co.uk Excursions Logan Botanic Garden Port Logan, Dumfries & Galloway DG9 9ND, Tel 01776 860 231 Surtees Hotel 94 Warwick Way, Victoria, London SWIV ISB 0207 834 7163/7394 www.surtees-hotel.co.uk The Legacy Rose & Crown Harnham, Salisbury, Tel 0844 411 9046 www.legacy-hotels.co.uk The Lincoln House Hotel 33 Gloucester Place, London W1U 8HY, Tel 0207 486 7630 www.lincoln-house-hotel.co.uk Fairhaven Gardens South Walsham, Norwich, Norfolk NR13 6DZ, Tel 01603 270449/270683 www.fairhavengarden.co.uk Benmore Botanic Garden Nr Dunnon, Argyll PA23 8QU, Tel 01369 706261 Dawyck Botanic Garden Stobo, Scottish Borders Eh45 9JU, Tel 01721 760 254 Abbotsford Tel 01896 752 043 www.scottsabbotsford.co.uk Bank Of England Museum Bartholomew Lane, London EC2R 8AH, Tel 020 7601 5545 www.bankofengland.co.uk/museum Imperial War Museum London, Lambeth Road, London SE1 6HZ, Tel 020 7416 5000 www.iwm.org.uk Jane Austen’s House Museum Chawton, Alton,Hampshire GU34 1SD, Tel 014083262 www.jane-austens-housemuseum.org.uk John Muir’s Birthplace 126 High Street, Dunbar, East Lothian EH42 1JJ, Tel 01368865899 www.jmbt.org.uk Findon Manor Sussex Tel 01903 872733 www.findonmanor.com Greig’s 26 Burton Place, Mayfair, London W1, Tel 020 7629 5613 Jamon Jamon 38 Parkway, London NW1 7AH Tel 0207 284 0606 The Lansdowne Strand The Strand, Calne, Wiltshire, Tel 01249 812 488 www.arkells.com Lemon Sole Seafood Restaurant & Crofts Wine Cellar 123 High Street, Old Portsmouth, Hampshire PO1 2HW, Tel 023 9281 1303 www.lemonsole.co.uk Paradiso 36 Englands Lane, Primrose Hill, London NW3 4UE, Tel 020 7586 9001/3357 www.paradisonw3.co.uk STEAM HERITAGE Bluebell Railway Preservation Society Sheffield Park Station, East Sussex, TN22 3QL, Tel 01825 720800 www.bluebell-railway.co.uk Bodmin & Wenford Railway Bodmin General Station, Bodmin, Cornwall PL3 1AQ, Tel 0845 125 9678 www.bodminandwenfordrailway.co.uk Bo’ness & Kinneil Railway Bo’ness Station, Union Street, Bo’ness EH51 9AQ, Tel 01506 825855 www.srps.org.uk RESTAURANTS Aroma Spice 98 Fleet Road, Hampstead, London NW3 2QX, Tel 020 7485 6908 Bacchus Greek Tavern 37 Heath St, Hampstead NW3 6TR, Tel 0207 7435 1855 The Brickhouse 152c Brick Lane, London E1 6RU, Tel 020 7247 0005 www.thebrickhouse.co.uk Camerino Restaurant 16 Percy Street, London W1T 1DT, Tel 020 7637 9900 China Garden 5-6 New College Parade, Finchley Road, Swiss Cottage, London NW3 5EP Tel 020 7722 6611 www.chinagardenuk.com Dumpling 279C Finchley Road, London NW3 6LT Tel 020 7433 3211 Dean Forest Railway Norchard Railway Station, Forest Road, Lydney GL15 4ET, Tel 01594 845840 www.dfr.co.uk Great Dorset Steam Fair Dairy House Farm, Child Okeford, Blandford, Dorset, DT11 8HT, Tel 01258 860361 www.gdsf.co.uk 5 page 4 - 5 - 6:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 10:27 AM Page 3 The Heritage Railway Association 10 Hurdeswell, Long Hanborough, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 8DH www.heritagerailways.co.uk Guildford 14 Tunsgate, Guildford, Surrey GU1 3QT, Tel 01483 444333 www.visitguilford.com Surrey Farnham Town Council, Farnham Maltings, Bridge Square, Farnham, Surrey GU9 7QR Kingairloch Highland Holidays Kingairloch Estate, Ardgour by Fort William, Tel 01967 411 242 www.kingairloch-holidays.co.uk Isle Of Wight Steam Railway Havenstreet Station, Havenstreet, Nr Ryde, Isle Of Wight P033 4DS, Tel 01983 882204 www.iwsteamrailway.co.uk Hayling Island Havant Borough Visitor Information Centre, Seafront, Hayling Island, P011 0AG Tel 023 9246 7111 www.visithavant.co.uk TRAVEL GOODS Marwell Wildlife Colden Common, Winchester, SO21 1JH, Tel 01962 777965 www.marwell.org.uk The Royal Deeside Railway Preservation Society Milton Of Crathes, Banchory, Aberdeenshire, AB31 5QH www.deeside-railway.co.uk WILD LIFE PARKS Battersea Park Children’s Zoo Battersea Park, London, Tel 023 80292408 www.batterseapark.co.uk Steaming Through Snowdonia Ffestiniog & Welsh Highland Railways, Harbour Station, Porthmadog, Gwynedd LL49 9NF, Tel 01766516024 www.festrail.co.uk Birds Of A Feather RSPB Reserve, Langstone Harbour, Tel 01273 775333 www.rspb.org.uk/reserves/guide/l/lan gstoneharbour THEME PARKS TOURIST INFORMATION Gosport www.discovergosport.co.uk 6 The New Forest Wildlife Park Longdown, New Forest, Hampshire, Tel 023 8029 2408 www.newforestwildlifepark.co.uk Check out the links to the above on www.ExcursionsUK.com The Chestnut Centre Otter, Owl & Wildlife Park Chapel-en-le-Frith, Derbyshire, Tel 01298 814099 www.chestnutcentre.co.uk West Somerset Railway The Railway Station, Minehead, Somerset TA24 5BG Tel 01643 7049966 www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk The Heights Of Abraham Matlock Bath, Derbyshire, Tel 01629 582365 www.heightsofabraham.com Clearview Binoculars The Old Coach House, Newmillerdam, Wakefield WF2 6QG, Tel 01924 229787 www.clearviewbinoculars.co.uk Peak District & Derbyshire Tel 0844 888 5112 www.visitpeakdistrict.com Portsmouth - The Waterfront City Tel 023 9288 3545 www.visitportsmouth.co.uk Cotswold Wildlife Park & Gardens Burford, Oxon OX18 4JP, Tel 01993 823006 www.cotswoldwildlifepark.co.uk The Hawk Conservancy Sarson Lane, Weyhill, Andover, Hampshire. SP11 8DY, Tel 01264 773850 www.hawk-conservancy.org Excursions page 7:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 10:34 AM Page 1 D I S C O V E R R OYA L C O N N E C T I O N S A L O N G THE THAMES WITH CITY CRUISES With the wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton taking place in spring 2011 there is no better time for groups to visit London and discover the royal connections along the River Thames with City Cruises. Groups can jump onboard City Cruises’ sightseeing boats at the four major destination piers on the River Thames (Westminster, London Eye, Tower and Greenwich). Westminster Pier is just a short walk from Westminster Abbey, where the couple will be getting married on the 29th April 2011 and which has been the site of Royal Coronations and funerals since Norman times. As the boats cruise downstream from Westminster and pass under Blackfriars Bridge, St Paul’s Cathedral, the setting for Charles and Diana’s marriage ceremony comes into view. The Tower of London, on the doorstep of Tower Pier has nearly 1000 years of royal connections. Not only was it the scene of the beheading of Anne Boleyn but it is also currently home to the Crown Jewels. Finally Greenwich Pier brings you to the birthplace of Henry VIII, Elizabeth I and Mary I. Greenwich is also home to the National Maritime Museum, which incorporates the Excursions Queen's House, commissioned by Queen Anne of Denmark, the wife of James I and the Royal Observatory. Passengers cruise in comfort onboard modern boats with panoramic windows and open deck areas, which offer full access to the mobility impaired. Light refreshments are available onboard and for groups of 40 or more we can organise a dedicated lunch cruise. A two-course lunch on the Restaurant Ship Hispaniola and a oneway cruise ticket is an alternative proposition for smaller groups. Fantastic group packages are also available, which combine a sightseeing cruise with either a visit to the Sea Life London Aquarium, the Tower of London, Madame Tussauds, the Churchill Museum and the Cabinet War Rooms or a trip on the London Eye. Bringing groups by coach to the piers is easy, with a dedicated coach park at Tower Hill, two coach bays near Westminster Pier and seven coach bays near London Eye Pier, for drop off and pick up. There is also a coach bay at Embankment Gardens for drop off and pick up, which is ideal for the Restaurant Ship Hispaniola. Sightseeing groups of 20 people or more receive special rates and a free place for the group leader. For further information please call: +44 (0)20 77 400 400 or visit www.citycruises.com 7 page 8 - 9 - 10 - 11:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 10:45 AM Page 1 A Stroll on the South Side with Peter Stevenson n the twenty-five years or so that I’ve lived in London, the stretch of land alongside the south bank of the River Thames, has evolved and changed to such an extent that it’s now barely recognisable from all which was there before. Part of deliberate policy to open up the expanses of land by the river and to create an interesting and varied vista for tourists and locals alike, it is now one of my favourite capital walks. Equally, it can be accomplished by bicycle for most of the way, although you’ll need to exercise a little care and consideration on two wheels, simply due to the numbers of walkers you’ll encounter on route. I Tower Bridge Like much of London, this is a diverse, vibrant, multicultural and historic area, basking in the glow of inner-city, river-front regeneration. Tucked away and within easy reach are residential neighbourly areas, cool bars and fantastic restaurants, and some of the world’s best art in all its broadest of forms. As you may be starting to realise, the great thing about this stretch is that it’s not simply a walk and with so many attractions on route, it’s highly likely that you’re going to be stopping off to explore some hidden haunt or famous sight. It’s certainly a panoramic and spectacular section of the River Thames, which encompasses the Tower of London, the Tate Modern, Shakespeare’s Globe, St Paul’s Cathedral and the Houses of Parliament. This section of the Thames Path links all of these iconic constructions as part of a free and easy walk that is simply dripping with history and surging with the excitement of contemporary London life. 8 Tower Bridge Shad Thames Historically, London grew up around the Thames with this part of the river at its very heart. Possibly the best starting point is on the north side of the river by the Tower of London and with a short hop across the splendid Tower Bridge. In fact for a tourist it’s a must! Immediately after, there is a potential diversion to the east and a challenging photo opportunity. Dip left under the arch of the bridge and into the intriguingly named Shad Thames and you will find yourself in a narrow street flanked with Victorian warehouses on both sides, above which small elevated walkways Excursions page 8 - 9 - 10 - 11:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 criss-cross and connect. The last of the warehouses closed in 1972 and following substantial but sympathetic restoration and conversion during the 1980s and 1990s, they now function as restaurants, offices and apartments. City Hall 10:45 AM Page 2 HMS Belfast, a Royal Navy battleship that served in the Second World War and which is now open to the public. Continuing along a short distance, it’s probably better to head away from the river at this point and through Hay’s Galleria, a shopping arcade, dominated by a vast vaguely-boat-shaped statue and into Tooley Street. You can't miss it! Warehouses of the Shad Thames On Tooley Street, turn right and you will pass the London Dungeon on the other side of the road, which draws in the tourists. Stay on Tooley Street, bearing right just after London Bridge Hospital and you will walk through an arch under London Bridge. Immediately on your right after the bridge is Glaziers Hall but of more historic interest is the rising splendour of Southwark Cathedral. It is open during the day and well worth visiting, to take in its stunning architecture and stained glass windows. Outside in the grounds are an array of benches and a possible resting point for a refreshment break. Borough Market The GLS’s HQ, designed by Norman Foster Back to the Thames Path and heading due west the walker soon passes Norman Foster’s modern glass sphere, opened in 2002 and built at a cost of £65 million. It’s the new headquarters of the Greater London Authority (GLA) - the administrative body for greater London. Docked to one side on the river is HMS Belfast If there’s one recommendation I can make, it’s that this walk should be considered on a Thursday or Friday, or even better, a Saturday. This is simply because a short detour behind the cathedral will reveal a fantastic food emporium Borough Market. In the early hours of the morning it functions in a wholesale capacity but once the stalls are set up for public trade, it is an assault upon the senses. While it can be expensive (apart from the fresh fruit and veg stalls) it’s well worth dipping into the purse or wallet for an extravagant treat or two, once you’ve sampled a few of the tasty free morsels which abound. If you’re in London in December, the market usually operates each day of the week leading up to Christmas and at Yuletide you’re also likely to find all manner of carol singers, brass bands and Morris dancers. Their performances add seasonal atmosphere and resonate beneath the glass and wrought iron girders of the cavernous open sheds and the narrow Victorian side streets. Next up could be a minor backwards step and into the Old Operating Theatre Museum one of the most unusual displays in London and a relic from the days before antiseptic surgery. It is somewhat bizarrely situated in the garret of St Thomas’s Church in St Thomas Street, which runs parallel to the western end of Tooley Street. There is no free access but admission charges are reasonable but for logistical reasons, it is only recommended for the able-bodied - access is via a narrow spiral staircase! Otherwise, it’s a case of working your way back towards the river from the market, where you will be greeted by the sight of the Golden Hinde, a scale replica of Sir Francis Drake’s Elizabethan galleon, berthed in St Mary Overie Dock, and open to the public. The crew are attired in period dress and there are five decks of exhibits and artefacts. There is also a Pirate Academy, which offers weekend workshops throughout the year for youngsters who want to brush up their pirate skills. Continuing immediately west along Clink Street and with the river just out of sight, are the remains of Winchester Palace, the former home of the Bishops of Winchester, followed by the Clink Prison Museum. The original prison dates back to 1144 and is one of England’s oldest such institutions - a notoriously unpleasant prison that gave rise to the colloquial expression "in the clink". HMS Belfast is unique as the last remaining big-gunned warship to have seen action in the Second World War still moored in European waters. Launched in 1938 she served with distinction in the Second World War and was amongst the very first British ships to go into action into the Korean War in 1950. Her service in the War, during which she spent no less than 404 days on active patrol, was as long and arduous as that with the Home Fleet during the Second World War. In May 1971, after 32 years service, HMS Belfast was 'Reduced to Disposal', in preparation for her sale and destruction by the ship's breakers. With the encouragement of the Imperial War Museum, an independent trust was formed, led by one of HMS Belfast's former captains, Rear-Admiral Sir Morgan Morgan-Giles. The trust succeeded in bringing her to London where she opened to visitors on Trafalgar Day, 21 October 1971. HMS Belfast has been part of the Imperial War Museum since 1978 and is the first ship to be preserved for the nation since Nelson's Victory. A tour of this huge and complex warship will take you from the Quarterdeck up to the top of her bridge and all the way down through her nine decks to her massive Boiler and Engine Rooms, well below the ship's waterline. Excursions At the end of Clink Street, the walker passes under the Cannon Street Rail Bridge and past Vinopolis, an exhibition of wines from around the world. A right turn brings the river once more into view, along with The Anchor pub on Bankside, which can be a pleasant place to stop for a drink, albeit an often busy diversion, particularly during the summer. A little further along and Shakespeare’s open topped Globe Theatre nestles close to the river - a reconstruction which 9 page 8 - 9 - 10 - 11:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 was opened in 1997 and where live performances are staged. Nearby are the remains of Shakespeare’s Rose Theatre effectively buried beneath an office block, public viewing is infrequent. Immediately next to the Globe Theatre is the old house of the celebrated architect, Sir Christopher Wren but unfortunately there is no public access. The view from the house looks across the Thames, past the modern Millennium Footbridge and towards Wren’s finest creation - St Paul’s Cathedral. The Millenium Bridge The footbridge was officially opened in 2000 and was affectionately christened “the wibblywobbly” bridge, due to its propensity to vibrate alarmingly, particularly when overloaded. Fear not - three days later the engineers returned red faced with embarrassment and although all is now well, the bridge remained closed for nearly two years whilst modifications were made. The bridge crosses the Thames directly in front of the Tate Modern, which is located within the site of the former Bankside Power Station. It’s a possible stopping off point - the bulk of the displays are free, although special exhibitions may require pre-booking or a ticket. Alternatively, St Paul’s itself is a short jaunt across the river and always worth a visit or a closer look. Back beside the Thames and the riverside trail starts to widen and Blackfriars Rail Bridge soon looms. Just beyond the bridge are the solid, ornate topped, red columns of an earlier construction, which was demolished because it was considered too weak to support modern trains. The Millenium Bridge 10:45 AM Page 3 The OXO Tower A little further along the river and just past the modern façade of Sea Container’s House, is the splendid Oxo Tower. Originally a power station tower, it underwent something of an art deco transformation in the late 1920s. Look up and you will see its stained glass windows, which artistically bear the letters of "OXO". These were installed by the manufacturers of Oxo stock cubes in response to being told that they could not feature an illuminated advertisement on their tower. In the 1990s it was refurbished to provide exclusive residential properties and a gallery and is splendidly lit up at night. Towards the top is the tour de force an expensive restaurant boasting great views over the city In the shadow of the tower is Gabriel’s Wharf - a most agreeable riverside area. Set back a touch and with a handful of restaurants, a bar, small shops and bicycle hire facility, somehow it continues to resist redevelopment and the excesses of commercialisation. The open square of the wharf itself and the gardens alongside, is usually the venue for local summer events (generally advertised as the Coin Street Festival) with free live music and entertainment. The Thames is a tidal river with strong currents and at this point of the walk, you might be surprised to see large tracts of foreshore at low tide. There are various access points and in summer it is not so unusual to see a few children playing on the sand or muddy reaches near to the Festival Pier, while adults rummage at the water’s edge. The river is still giving up hidden parts of London’s history but venture down yourself and the most likely find will be a piece of broken 18th century clay pipe. A couple of miles further west and beyond the limits of this walk, it is possible to venture and explore for a considerable distance on the foreshore at low tide, although considerable care needs to be taken and suitable clothing and footwear adopted. Moving on … next up is IBM on the South Bank and immediately after the National Film Theatre (NFT), which is a wonderful cinema complex with retrospective or thematic film seasons. In the summer, the area to one side of the theatre is often used for free entertainment plays, poetry readings, etc. Waterloo Bridge crosses overhead, under which and in front of the NFT café, second hand booksellers set up expansive rows of tables, quantities of which seem to increase at the weekend. Immediately west of the bridge, you might come across the skateboarding antics of young performers, who crash and crack under the graffiti splattered passages of the South Bank Centre. However, their future at this location has been the subject of much speculation in recent years and their days could be numbered. This complex includes the Queen Elizabeth Hall, which hosts a wide variety of contemporary and classical concerts and dance performances. Although the whole affair is rather uninspiring from the outside, it is an interesting entertainment centre that also includes the smaller Purcell Room and the Hayward Gallery. The Hayward hosts exhibitions of the visual arts, including photography, painting and sculpture. The next building on the South Bank is the Royal Festival Hall, a venue for (predominantly classical) music events. Again, in the summer, free performances often take place on the balcony overlooking the Thames or in the foyer inside at other times of the year. Just after the Royal Festival Hall is the Hungerford Rail Bridge, which is flanked by newer constructs with lift access - the Golden Jubilee Bridges - generally known to locals by the name of the older bridge that they replaced - the Hungerford footbridges. Continuing the walk west alongside the river you’ll pass Jubilee Gardens (a small park, usually filled with picnickers and sunbathers during warmer days), which lies in front of the Shell Centre, the headquarters of the giant oil company. Although this building isn’t open to the public, the exterior might be familiar, as it has featured as a backdrop in many films. The echo and boom which bounces off its substantial façade during the occasional summer firework displays - usually fired off from this point of the river just has to be heard to be believed. The London Eye At the western end of the gardens is the London Eye, a huge Ferris wheel which was erected as a temporary attraction just before the millennium but it has proved so popular that it would seem to be here to stay. From the top it offers unparalleled views over the city of London. County Hall, the former home of the Greater London Council but now largely a hotel 10 Excursions page 8 - 9 - 10 - 11:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 10:46 AM Page 4 The London Eye Relax along the river cruise along the river Thames is a relaxing way to see some of London’s famous landmarks: the Houses of Parliament; Tower of London, Shakespeare’s Globe, the South Bank etc., There are a number of services offering boat rides on the river, from a simple ferry service that will take you from one pier to another, to a round trip cruise with commentary that points out all the important landmarks. Westminster Pier, which is close to Big Ben, is popuar with tourists and here you will find a number of companies offering river cruises. Many companies offer ‘rover’ tickets, which allow you to hop on and off the boat at different piers throughout the day. Many companies also offer a dinner cruise, afternoon tea cruise, or even a night disco cruise, depending on your tastes. It’s up to you. A complex runs off to its side and is also home to an evolving array of commercial attractions, most notably The London Aquarium. Westminster Bridge If you’ve been distracted by various attractions on route, the chances are that you’re starting to flag at this point but if you’re in it purely for the walk then you’re on the last leg and directly opposite The Palace of Westminster. Walk on a little further and you’ll see the character of the riverbank change considerably. Far fewer tourists venture into this section but there are plenty of raised benches on offer and it’s a nice enough place to sit, rest or relax, while looking out over the river. The view of Westminster Palace and Westminster Bridge from across the river Just after County Hall is Westminster Bridge and the walk continues alongside the river, having first taken the tunnel underneath the bridge. Before doing so it’s worth popping up the steps where you will be confronted by a huge lion, the statue being one of the few remaining examples of Coade stone, a ceramic substance developed by the Victorian female scientist, Eleanor Coade. The statue once adorned the entrance to the nearby Lion Brewery, which was demolished following bomb damage during the blitz of World War II. After a short stint guarding Waterloo Station, the lion was relocated to its present spot in 1966. A smaller compatriot lion from the brewery now stands proudly outside Twickenham Rugby Club, which is located on the southwest edges of London. Having reached this point but before continuing alongside the river, it’s possible that a further attraction in the form of the Florence Nightingale Museum might draw you towards the west side of the bridge. The museum will be found in the grounds of St Thomas’s Hospital and although it has been closed for a while for redevelopment, it is expected to reopen in May 2010 in order to mark the centenary of her death. Excursions The final crossing point looms into view - Lambeth Bridge and close by on the edge of a small park is Lambeth Palace. It has been home to the Archbishop of Canterbury since the 11th century, although the current building wasn’t actually constructed until 1495. Alongside the Palace in the church of St Mary-at-Lambeth, is the Museum of Garden One of the many piers for joining sightseeing boat trips. History. This effectively completes the South Bank walk and although it is possible to continue for a while there is little to see and the views are less aesthetically pleasing. At this point it is more pleasant from the North Bank but again there’s not a lot on offer unless you fancy the Tate Britain and its artwork as a final destination and attraction. Distance - 3.5 miles/6 km Start - Tower Bridge Finish - Lambeth Bridge Terrain and surface - Easy, flat and with a consistent level walking surface. Signage - The Thames Path is clearly signed and way-marked along its total length using the distinctive National Trust green and white acorn symbol alongside its name. On route are numerous information boards relating to the attractions you’ll meet along the way. The walk is part of the longer Thames Path National Trail, which links Hampton Court in the south-west to Greenwich in the east - a potential walk of well over 40 miles. 11 page 12 - 13:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 10:52 AM Page 1 FLOODS FROM THE FUTURE: WILL A SECOND THAMES BARRIER SAVE LONDON? T he capital city has become virtually uninhabitable. It resembles Venice, but without the gondolas. Parliament Square has been transformed into paddy fields which reach right up to the walls of the Palace of Westminster. Buckingham Palace is surrounded by “ a sea of shanty housing”, the Gherkin is providing accommodation for “thousands of ecorefugees” and there is ice-skating along the Thames. Hollywood-style science fiction.? An extremely unlikely doomsday scenario? Not according to an exhibition currently running at the Museum of London (until 6th March 2011) featuring an “arresting display” in the form of 14 postcards which aim to “bring home the full impact of global warming, food scarcity, rising sea levels” and how all the inhabitants “will need to innovate and adapt to survive”. The photo images, designed by illustrators Robert Graves and Didier Madoc-Jones, show a London that has been “overwhelmed by the impact of 6-metres flooding” – in effect, the level required to breach the existing Thames Barrier. There is no specified date – but the message is clear enough: Ignore it at your peril; It could happen far sooner than you would like to believe. As the “Independent” newspaper reported at the time, the former Labour Government had already begun to consider proposals for a new £20 billion flood defence system, possibly entailing the construction of a second barrier at Sheerness in Kent – east of the current one located at Woolwich. In the opinion of the then Environment Minister, Phil Woolas (recently ousted by the courts as MP for Oldham East) a decision needed to be made soon, as the likelihood of London flooding had doubled over the preceding 25 years. In an interview with the “Sunday Telegraph”, he pointed out that the Thames Barrier ( the world’s second largest 12 after the Oostersscheldkering in the Netherlands and officially inaugurated by the Queen on 8th May 1984) had been built on the assumption there was a “one-in-2000-year chance that the capital would flood. This figure would instead be halved to just 1,000 years by 2030. Statistics published on the UK Environment Agency’s (EA) website indicate that the country’s sea levels are now about 10cm higher than in 1900 and that in the South-East of England, a combination of the continuous upsurge globally and the local sinking of the land is resulting in “ sea level rises of 5.4 mm a year”. They attribute this development to (among other factors) “longterm variations in ocean volume” caused by the melting of ice-sheets and glaciers, which in turn heighten the prospect of torrential storms breaking through sea defences and threatening the estimated 17 million people in the UK who live within 10 kilometres of the sea, as well as much of the manufacturing industry based at or near the coast. According to author Peter Acroyd in his book on the Thames, in 4000 BC the land beside the river was 46 feet (14 m) higher than it is now. He has likewise calculated that the South-East of England “is sinking slowly into the water” - at the rate of approximately 12 inches (305 mm ) per century - and that the tides moving up the lower reaches of the Thames are increasing at a rate of 2 feet (0.6m) per century. “That is why the Thames Barrier will not provide protection enough”. The magazine “Water Power” has also expressed concern that, despite all the measures which have been implemented to safeguard London’s low-lying areas upstream (among them the 11km long Jubilee River, created and designed to act as “a flood relief channel for the Thames around Maidenhead, Windsor and Eton”) ,many properties are still at risk. More than 15,000 homes and businesses, they state, now stand “within the 1 in 100 floodplain (equating to a 1% annual chance of occurrence) between Datchet in Berkshire and Teddington in Middlesex and add the prescient reminder that “The Lower Thames has already experienced two significant floods this century: in 2000 and 2003 and narrowly avoided flooding again in 2007”. In practice, it is not a question of whether it will happen again, but when and on what scale. Any cosy or lingering illusions that London is somehow immune from what is happening elsewhere around the world – that the Graves/Madoc-Jones exhibition can be dismissed as mere publicity-seeking scaremongering and there is no risk of the UK capital being engulfed by tidal waves – will have been abruptly dispelled by the scenes from Queensland this January. Channel Four TV News transmitted pictures of skyscrapers in Brisbane – Australia’s third largest city – surrounded by cascading water which had swept away whatever lay in its path: cars, lorries, boats, traffic lights, riverside cafeterias. An area the size of France, Germany and Luxembourg combined was affected. Thousands of people had to abandon their homes. These, however, were not third world refugees fleeing from yet another natural disaster but citizens of a modern, developed industrial nation. Almost simultaneously, there were inundations and landslides in south-east Brazil and Sri Lanka. The floods which were a constant occurrence last year – Madeira (February); South-Eastern France (June); North-East Brazil (June); Southern and Central China (July); Pakistan (August); Niger (August) – look set to continue well into 2011 and beyond. A UNFCCC (United Nations Convention On Climate Change) survey published prior to the Climate Conference in Cancun, Mexico (December 2010) highlighted “the numerous long-term changes in the climate” which had been observed – including Excursions page 12 - 13:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 10:52 AM extreme weather such as droughts, heavy precipitation, heat waves and the intensity of tropical cyclones. It cited, as examples of the increasingly powerful storms occurring worldwide, the floods in the Rhine (1996/7); China (1998); Eastern Europe (1998/2002); Mozambique (2000); Bangladesh (2004). The IPCC (Intergovernmental Panel On Climate Change) Report (2007) declared that “the warming of the climate system is unequivocal” and expressed the fear that (due mainly to the contraction of the Greenland ice sheet) a “sealevel rise of just 200mm could create 740,000 homeless people in Nigeria, the Maldives (which could be made uninhabitable by 2100),Tuvalu and other low-lying countries”, They furthermore noted that “extra-tropical storm tracks are projected to move poleward, with consequent alterations in wind, precipitation and temperature patterns”. These assessments apply to the UK just as much as anywhere else. It has become evident over the past few years that the weather in and around the British Isles has been changing. Winters in particular have become more severe and unpredictable – the countrywide chaos caused by the heavy snowfalls prior to Christmas 2010 being one such instance. There has also been a succession of very wet summers. June 2007 was described at the time as “one of the wettest on record in Britain”, with the rainfall of 5.5 in. being double the normal average. This led to serious flooding in Northern Ireland, East Yorkshire, The Midlands, Gloucestershire, Herefordshire, Oxfordshire, Berkshire and South Wales. The Environment Agency characterised the situation in July of that year as “critical” and Phil Woolas afterwards declared that the Government would have faced “ the biggest peacetime evacuation in history” if the emergency defences around the Welham electricity substation in Gloucestershire had failed. In 2008, Sir Michael Pitt , in his Review on “Learning The Lessons From the 2007 Floods”, advocated (among many other proposals) the establishment of a Cabinet Committee dedicated to tackling the threat from flooding, thereby bringing it in line with other major hazards such as pandemic flu and terrorism and that local authorities should play a major role in the management of flood risk. There were heavy downfalls yet again that year, especially during what the Meteorological Office named as “Awful August”, when rain “soaked heavy swathes of already water-logged Britain”, continuing into September across Wales and Central & Southwest England. Dr Hayley Fowler (Newcastle University) forecast that the storms would increase in intensity over the next 70 years , with Northern Ireland and the Western regions being the worst hit. Consistent with this prediction, November 2009 was classified as “the wettest month in the UK since records began in 1914”. The most adversely affected areas on this occasion were Cumbria, Dorset, parts of Wales (Colwyn Valley, Pembrokeshire, Camarthenshire) plus much of the Irish Republic (Clare, Cork, Galway, Westmeath). Sir Michael Pitt,in his 2008 Report , had called for both “proper resourcing of flood resilience measures, with above-inflation increases every spending review” and “preplanned, rather than ad hoc, financial arrangements in place for responding to the financial burden of exceptional emergencies”. The probability of these recommendations being implemented, however ,has diminished somewhat since the Conservative/Lib Dem Coalition Government – which is committed to Excursions Page 2 sweeping public expenditure cuts – took office in May 2010. This has alarmed organizations such as the Association of British Insurers (ABI). Their view is that “A long-term flood prevention strategy, backed by the right level of investment is crucial if homes, services and businesses are to be properly protected”. In return, the ABI has pledged to make flood insurance as widely available as possible until 2013. AA Insurance has similarly warned (as quoted on the ‘FairInvestment’ website) that a reduction of public spending on flood defences - such as ensuring storm drains are kept clear and are improved to remove surface water – could make many households uninsurable The AAI Director, Simon Douglas , in a letter to the new Environment Secretary of State, Caroline Spelman, drew her attention to the fact that if investment in flood defences was not maintained, insurers would become increasingly fussy about who they covered and this would correspondingly push up the cost of premiums. Lord Smith, the Environment Agency Chairman, told the “Observer” newspaper in November 2010 that flood defence spending would be “cut in cash terms by about 27% and that this will happen immediately”. He conceded that “With less money we have to face greater environmental challenges…We have to deal with what we get and make the best of it.” This provoked an angry riposte in the same publication from Mary Dhonau, Chief Executive of the National Flood Forum (a charity representing over 200 flood prevention groups around the country), who asserted that: “Because of government cuts, there could be more people dying from floods.”. Caroline Spelman since then has fended off criticism from the Opposition with the claim that her department’s projected reductions are far less than those planned by the Labour Party while it was still in power. Despite this furore, the speculation regarding a prospective new crossing over (or a tunnel under) the River Thames has continued unabated.. The £500 million scheme for a Thames Gateway Bridge linking Beckton in the London Borough of Newham with Thamesmead in the London Borough of Greenwich was cancelled in 2008 by Mayor Boris Johnson. Although a scaled-down version was briefly considered in 2009, the next significant development emerged in July 2010 when (as revealed in the ‘Independent’), Transport For London (TfL) unveiled plans for a £25 million one- kilometre-long/ 50-metre high cable car system spanning the Thames between Greenwich Peninsula and the Royal Docks, with the aim of it being ready in time for the 2012 Olympics. A planning application was submitted to the London Borough of Newham in October 2010. If permission is granted, construction will begin as soon as the source of the (totally private) funds has been identified and committed. It is envisaged that the cable car will traverse every 30 seconds, convey 2,500 passengers (who will be able to use their Oyster cards) per hour in either direction, be equipped to accommodate bicycles and significantly reduce travel time between the 02 Arena and the Excel exhibition centre (both of which are Olympic locations). Boris Johnson has eulogized the cable car project as offering “a serene and joyful journey across the river”, whereas London Transport Commissioner, Peter Hendy, has portrayed it in more restrained terms as potentially providing “a relatively quick and cost-effective way of improving connections across the river for pedestrians and cyclists”. This does not mean , however, that the concept of a new bridge over the Thames has been abandoned. On the contrary, as disclosed by BBC News in October 2010, Kent County Council (KCC) intend to go ahead with it, preferably sited to the east of Gravesend, linking up with Chadwell in Essex and carrying traffic direct to the M11 rather than the M25. Research conducted by the KCC’s consultants have indicated that the new £1bn bridge (which would be built by a private company) could generate 6,000 jobs in north Kent and south Essex. Drivers would pay to use it, but “half the costs would come from tolls at the Dartford Crossing”, which (as stipulated in the Coalition’s Spending Review last October) will rise for cars from £1.50 to £2 this year and then to £2.50 in 2012. KCC hope to have a clear idea soon as to exactly when the work will start. Meanwhile, two Thames tunnel projects have so far made rather less headway. The multibillion plan announced in 2008 by the engineering consortium Metrotidal Ltd to connect the Medway and Canvey Island by cutting through the North Kent mudflats and marshes has encountered stiff resistance from the RSPB (The Royal Society For the Protection Of Birds),who have lambasted the scheme for appearing to “ride roughshod over one of the most charismatic landscapes and important wildlife sites in the Thames Gateway”. A rather different sort of tunnel – a new “super sewer’ planned by Thames Water to “significantly reduce” the amount of sewage overflowing into the river – has been stirring up controversy at the London Assembly. The LA’s Health and Public Services Committee is unhappy that “no-one knows how long Thames Water customers are likely to face an estimated £65 charge on their bill to cover the cost of the scheme”. There is another factor which is causing their Chairman, James Cleverley, even more consternation: Every year, he has noted, “39 million tonnes of untreated sewage is discharged into the River Thames from London’s sewers – enough to fill the Albert Hall 450 times.” He believes that the Thames Water tunnel offers the best answer to a worsening problem. Londoners will no doubt hope that he and his colleagues get this one right. COLIN GORDON www.colindgordon.co.uk 13 page 14 - 15:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 11:00 AM Page 1 BRIGHTON – AN AWAY DAY WITH SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE When I was a child my godfather used to take me out somewhere every other weekend. The highlight was always a trip to Brighton. Our routine would start with cockles and whelks in a shop just off the road down from the station and end with a bus Rottingdean out to Rottingdean to clamber over the rocks. In between we would fit in lunch, the pier, sometimes the Pavillion but always the Aquarium with the glass animal man. Later I lived in Brighton for two years. It is the only place I’ve lived in apart from London and I loved it. Friends tell me it was because Brighton is just London by the sea but it is so much more than that. Of course, things have changed over the years. You can’t go in style any more in the wonderful Brighton Belle but it is still the very best place for a day out from London. For a start Brighton is very accessible. There are up to 4 departures an hour from Victoria and it can take just under an hour to get you to the coast. There are also trains from several other stations across London on the First Capital Connect route. Once you arrive, the Victorian railway station is really central and you’ll be in the town centre in minutes and from there it’s only a step to the seafront. There is always something to do for everyone in Brighton and for those who know it well, there seems to be always something new to discover. Brighton means many different things to different people. It is still a traditional seaside resort but it’s full of history as well as being a cosmopolitan arts centre, a gay capital, an excellent base for a weekend’s clubbing and a great shopping area. If it’s history you are interested in, then you can’t miss The Royal Pavillion built by John Nash in 1815-23 for George 1V.When I was a child I loved it but was always a little frightened by the huge kitchens which made me think of some kind of torture chamber. Now I just enjoy the extravagance and oriental eccentricity of it all. On your way down to the beach, you could visit The Lanes. The North Laine area has stores selling retro furniture and loads of bead and clothes shops to suit all tastes except the strictly conventional. The Lanes themselves have a more cosmopolitan feel with lots of antique and jewellery shops. You could spend hours wandering in the maze of little shops or people watching in one of the numerous bars and cafes. If, however, it’s high street shopping you The Lanes want, then Brighton has that, too, in Churchill Square and if you continue along Western Road you come into Hove for more upmarket shops and delis, including a champagne boutique. If you can tear yourself away from the shops, then make for the beach. Of course, it’s not a sandy beach but you soon get used to pebbles. Brighton Royal Pavillion 14 Excursions page 14 - 15:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 11:00 AM Page 2 Photo by David Iliff ... http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0 Brighton beach /Photo by Amy Huang Whether you decide to relax on the beach or just stroll along the promenade, the seafront offers a real chance to wind down. However, if you need action, there’s a variety of water sports and outdoor activities on offer as well. Whatever you do, you shouldn’t miss a visit to the pier. In fact there are 2 piers in Brighton, the West Pier and the Palace Pier but I can’t ever remember a time when the West Pier was open. The Palace Pier is an entirely different matter though. It’s in the prime of its life, brightly lit, garish and offering all the fun of the fair, fish and chips and sticks of rock - and all this in the wonderful, sometimes bracing sea air. After a visit to the pier, you could go to Sea Life, the world’s oldest aquarium with an underwater walk-through tunnel. From the aquarium station you can take the historic Volk’s Electric Railway and ride along the seafront to the swish Marina for more shopping, a bite to eat or just to look at and perhaps covet the yachts. However, if you decide to walk west instead, you can look for bargains among the craft stalls at the open-air market. There’s a great play The Palace Pier Excursions Volk’s Electric Railway , photo byColin F. Parsons area for the kids, too, complete with a paddling pool. For adults there’s beach volleyball and petanque .All the family could enjoy a round of crazy golf together before passing the colourful beach huts to end the walk at Hove Lagoon or in St Ann’s Well Gardens with its bowling green, tennis courts, sensory garden, and little café. After all this activity, it’s easy to find somewhere for lunch or snacks. Brighton is full of restaurants, cafes, pubs and bars to suit all tastes and pockets, including an Italian restaurant, Al Fresco, right on the beach and a floating Chinese restaurant at the Marina, the Brighton Pagoda. For an old-fashioned treat you could try English’s of Brighton in East Street, a wellestablished seafood restaurant in a former fisherman’s cottage and dating back 400 years. If you just want a quick lunch, then every child I know would love Scoop and Crumb in East Street, with modern art on the walls, a mouthwatering choice of ice creams and good sandwiches too. After lunch, there is a huge variety of museums and galleries worth a visit like the Fishing Museum with its nearby whelk and smoked fish Fishing Museum shop, the Toy and Model Museum, home to 10,000 toys and said to be the closest you could come to Santa’s grotto, The Brighton Museum and Art Gallery in the Royal Pavillion Gardens and Earthship made out of tyres and tonnes of cans and bottles and looking for all the world like the Teletubbies’ s home. There are many other galleries and exhibitions but perhaps you would need to plan an Art Lover’s weekend to see them all. If you feel more adventurous, you could take a bus. I used to love Rottingdean and Black Rock where I would spend hours on the rocks and dipping in the pools but there are so many other interesting places to visit within easy reach. However, you could just spend the rest of the afternoon continuing your exploration of this fascinating resort which has something to see round every corner. You might even be there for one of the many festivals. During May, for instance, there are the Brighton Festival 224 May, a major fixture on the arts calendar, The Great Escape 14-16 May, where you might well see 4 quality bands a night, Artists’ Open Houses 2-24 May, and finally the Brighton Festival Fringe with hundreds of performances at 200 venues from cafes to hospitals. A day seems hardly enough. In fact, I am sure that you will be planning to go back soon and see more or you may decide to make a weekend of it. You’ll certainly be spoilt for choice for a restaurant for dinner and then you can sample the amazing night-life. There’s The Theatre Royal, of course, but also The Little Theatre, a lively amateur company, The Basement for experimental theatre and the Nightingale Theatre as well as Coach Works, a converted bus garage and many, many more venues. However, if it’s more vibrant night-life you want then Brighton really is a fun, party town with hundreds of bars and clubs all over the city. Finally, if you do decide to stay over you’ ll be able to take your pick of places to stay from over the top to homely and from grand to eccentric,. As I’ve often said before, Brighton really does have it all. Acrise Faulkner 15 page 16 - 17:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 11:22 AM Page 1 ‘Calbourne’ and No. 8 ‘Freshwater’ which dates from 1876. The Steam Railway will also have one of its Austerities, No. 192 ‘Waggoner’, in steam together with 1918-built industrial locomotive No. 38 ‘Ajax’. Two Visiting Locos Confir med for Isle of Wight Steam Railway 40th Anniversar y Spring Gala The 1874-built Beattie Well Tank No. 30587 appears courtesy of the Bodmin & Wenford Railway in Cornwall and the National Railway Museum. Its visit will also mean that the IW Steam Railway’s flagship locomotive No. 24 ‘Calbourne’ will be joined for the first time since 1966 with another former LSWR locomotive. No. 30587 was designed by Joseph Hamilton Beattie, who held the post of Chief Mechanical Engineer for the LSWR from 1850 until 1871, while ‘Calbourne’ was built in 1891 at the Nine Elms locomotive works of the LSWR to a design by the then Chief Mechanical Engineer, William Adams. Meanwhile 1898-built No. 473 ‘Birch Grove’ appears courtesy of The Bluebell Railway in East Sussex, and her visit will unite it with another former LBSCR loco, No. 8 ‘Freshwater’. Both locomotives were built at the former Brighton locomotive works and both were designed by the famous Brighton engineer William Stroudley. “We’re really pleased to be bringing these locomotives to Havenstreet for our Spring Gala”, said IW Steam Railway General Manager, Peter Vail. “And to have two such unique locomotives, both of which date from the Victorian era and both of which have a pedigree matching our own engines, makes it even more special. We’re planning a packed weekend of passenger and goods trains featuring both of our guest engines and as many of our own locomotives as we can muster.” No 473 ‘Birch Grove’, in the livery of the LBSCR, emerges under Deacon’s Lane Bridge with her train on the IW Steam Railway during a previous visit in August 2003 – Photo IWSR/John Faulkner The Isle of Wight Steam Railway has announced that locomotives from the Bluebell Railway in Sussex and The Bodmin & Wenford Railway in Cornwall will be crossing the Solent in late May to appear at the IW Steam Railway’s 40th Anniversary Spring Gala. Ex-London & South Western Railway (LSWR) Beattie Well Tank Locomotive No. 30587 will be travelling up from Bodmin in Cornwall and making her first-ever appearance on the Island. Travelling over from mid-Sussex to make her third appearance at the Havenstreet-based steam line will be ex-London Brighton & South Coast Railway (LBSCR) E4 Class locomotive No. 473 ‘Birch Grove’. The visiting locomotives will be in steam at the first of the IW Steam Railway’s 2011 Gala Weekends - one of many events being staged during this year to mark the 40th Anniversary of the IW Steam Railway. This ‘40th Anniversary Spring Gala’ will be held over the Spring Bank Holiday weekend from Saturday 28th May to Bank Holiday Monday, 30th May, and will feature all of the IW Steam Railway’s available locomotives in steam together with the visiting locos, possibly making the Gala the largest gathering of locomotives in steam on the Island since 1966. 16 Both visiting locomotives were built when Queen Victoria reigned and will be working alongside the IW Steam Railway’s own Victorian locos, the 1891-built No. 24 Other key events in the IW Steam Railway’s 40th Anniversary year include ‘The First train’ on 12th April to mark the date 40 years ago when trains operated for the first time, and a weekend featuring 40 hours of ‘non-stop’ trains at the end of June. Other highlights of the 40th Anniversary year will include ‘A Celebration of No 473 Birch Grove, resplendent in her Southern Railway livery, heads a train away from Kingscote Station on The Bluebell Railway, on 11th April 2010 - Photo courtesy of The Bluebell Railway Excursions page 16 - 17:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 11:22 AM Page 2 The Isle of Wight Steam Railway operates a preserved 5-mile section of the former Ryde to Newport Railway. The Railway Station, Havenstreet Station, Nr Ryde, Isle of Wight, PO33 4DS For further information on the IW Steam Railway please go to ww.iwsteamrailway.co.uk No. 30587 with a goods train at West Heath Road on the Bodmin & Wenford Railway, on 16th October 2009 – Photo courtesy of The Bodmin & Wenford Railway Island Steam’ in September which, it is hoped, will see the return to steam of 1878-vintage locomotive No. 11 ‘Newport’, a series of walks along some of the Island’s former railway lines, specially commissioned film shows, and an auction of railwayana. It is also intended to host a 40th Anniversary Year lecture with a renowned guest speaker from the world of railways and/or preservation. Excursions The Isle of Wight Steam Railway is located at Havenstreet Station (PO33 4DS) – 3 miles from Ryde and 3 miles from Newport. Schedule of Events A full copy of the Railway’s 40th Anniversary Events and Special Events schedule is available. No. 30587 and two carriages, seen at Boscarne Junction on the Bodmin & Wenford Railway – Photo Rachael Wilson 17 page 18 - 19:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 11:36 AM Page 1 Penrhyn Castle Bangor, North Wales ust a stones throw off the A55 near Bangor, North Wales, is a must visit place of interest, whose upkeep is in the capable hands of the National Trust. I wonder just how many visitors to the area pass this gem by, without knowing it's existence? For the many who do visit, it is one of the true gems that Wales has to offer. Penrhyn Castle was re-constructed based on a Norman Castle by design, during the 1780's. It's original shape in 1438 was of a medieval fortified Manor House. The building you see today however, was transformed beyond all recognition by Thomas Hooper, who was engaged by the Dawkins - Pennant family to create this imposing castle, because in effect, that is exactly what he did. J Sure, for the purists, it's not actually a castle in the traditional sense of the word, but more a stately home that was created in it's current form by a very rich family, whose money was made from Jamaican sugar plantations and local slate. There had to be a large element of slavery involved, as this was the norm at the time for people of this ilk, to make their fortune. Currently, there is an exhibition on view at the Castle, illustrating the roots of the slave trade in Jamaica in juxtaposition to the Pennant family's fortunes. It is argued that the cost of creating and constructing this magnificent 'replica' cost the Pennant's around the 150K mark, approximately 50 million by today's standards. There must have been vast An early steam engine Penrhyn Castle entrance arch 18 profits from slavery in those days, and you could see why many family fortunes declined when slavery was abolished, and why landowners like Richard Pennant, the first Lord Pehrhyn and also a member of parliament, was opposed to slavery's demise. The grounds are indeed vast, with some spectacular views of the Menai Strait and far off mountains in the background from certain vantage points. There are all manner of carefully planned sights to take in and enjoy, including a beautiful Victorian walled garden containing an overabundance of flower and plant varieties, plus some carefully laid water features. Dogs are welcome on leads in the grounds, but are excluded in the Castle itself, walled gardens and An early ice maker Excursions page 18 - 19:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 11:36 AM Page 2 The walled gardens of Penhryn Castle kids adventure play area. It's certainly a great day out for the family. The exhibitions in the stable block include an historical collection of Railway Engines and other industrial items associated with the railway of bygone days. There are steam engines, carriages and even an old weed killer wagon used to clear the unwanted growths from the railway tracks. A smaller item, but no less interesting, is the Model Railway Museum. The place even has a Dolls Museum, for those interested in that genre. When we visited, in late September, Charlotte Rousell (of Rousell's Auctioneers, Criccieth) was displaying her new venture into the world of Wall Panelling. She was offering to the public, her new range of designs with varied effects, such as wood grain or plain panels. In their basic form, these panels can be customised to suit individual requirements. Whist not being carved using the traditional wood based form, they are indeed most realistic and durable to meet modern day needs. You can have a single panel or a whole wall full, or even a fireplace surround. Charlotte was also offering hand made pine door latches in the traditional style, and some individual items like the haunting Green Man wall plaque. Check out Charlotte's website on www.historicalwallpanels.co.uk The Castle itself is a most impressive place, both inside and out. It is very well maintained by the National Trust and is 'museum like' inside, with many Trust staff on hand at every turn, room and chamber. There are ornate and elaborate carvings throughout, and some of the ceiling architecture is beautiful, and there is an array of impressive state rooms. There is even a one ton slate bed, made especially for the visit of Queen Victoria to somnambulate in during her visit to the castle in 1879. Let's hope the regal monarch managed to get a good nights rest on such a cold and unforgiving slab, and did not wake thinking she was at the morticians ! Most of the furniture on display is made in a mock Norman style, yet is none the less impressive for it's modernity in construction, or in craftsmanship. One really interesting feature amongst all the rich finery was the Ice House. This was an early attempt at making slabs of ice for the preservation of food stocks, although it was undrinkable in it's initial conception. You can see the servants quarters, kitchens, and various behind the scenes activities that took place during the daily running of such a large estate. Penrhyn castle also boasts one of the finest collections of paintings in Wales.Featured are interesting and historical portraits of various heads of state and politicians, including a fine portrait of Elizabeth 1. Undoubtedly one of the most, if not the most popular English monarchs to rule this tiny island. Her legend had permeated down through the centuries as an icon of freedom, about which many stories, documentaries and films have been made. She is England and even today, England is, in many ways, her. The British have always had matriarchal Queens, dating far back into history, with Cartamunda and of course, Boudicca, who was re-popularised and re-named Boadicea by the Victorians, and was much admired by Queen Victoria herself . Boudicca was the definitive freedom fighting Celtic Queen, and therefore, we assume that her spoken language was indeed Welsh, although she may have learned some Latin under Roman rule. I must make mention of the tea room facilities A Green Man head wall plaque on offer, as they present a most welcome place to rest up and enjoy the fare they have on offer. Like many stately homes, they ran up large debts over the years and cost a tidy sum to maintain. Usually, such places finally end up under the ownership of the National Trust. Such was the case with Penrhyn Castle. In 1951. The castle, and some 40,000 acres, were accepted by Her Majesty's Treasury in lieu of death duties owed. So it's not just us mere mortals who fall foul of the taxman, it's also the landed gentry too. The Trust has also made it a very user friendly place by hosting many varied events. It has Alice in Wonderland and Knights and Princesses Fun Days. Plus a whole range of exhibitions throughout the year including: the North Wales Society of Fine Arts, Penrhyn Talent, a mixed media show featuring paintings, photographs and crafts by the staff and volunteers who work at the castle. You can even Abseil down the Ice Tower, advertised as 'the event of a lifetime'. Not for the feint-hearted! Entry prices vary, depending on what you wish to see. For example a Castle ticket: adult £10 (£9), child £5 (£4.50), family £25 (£22.50). Grounds and and stable block exhibitions only: adult £6.60 (£6), child £3.50 (£3) - (Standard Admission prices in brackets). For more information and opening times, contact 01248 371337 (Infoline) 01248 53084 Fax: 01248 371281 Email: [email protected] Text by Paul Brett Photos by Michele Breeze Kettering Furnages No 3 steam engine Excursions Carved wooden wall panels 19 page 20 - 21:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 11:48 AM Page 1 Transported back in time by Acrise Faulkner can remember when I was very small being lifted up onto the huge footplate of a steam train at King’s Cross to see where the driver worked before chugging off on the long haul to Scotland. They were long those journeys to the Highlands, but they were also something I looked forward to all year. I was supposed to sleep away some of the 12 hours it took in those days, but I never could, even though the movement was far more conducive to dozing off than the smooth swishing sound of today’s trains. The whole atmosphere was far too exciting even the smell and the sooty smuts which always seemed to I 20 appear on faces and clothes, especially if you stuck your face out of the carriage window and experienced the thrill of the wind and smoke rushing past you - but ,of course, that was strictly forbidden ! A couple of weeks ago I was transported back to my childhood when my husband and I took a trip with Steam Dreams, the Cathedrals Express Company. Throughout the year they run a series of trips all over the country. The trips, mostly just for a day, are more to do with the steam experience than with the destinations but you usually do get some time to explore before the return trip. We were on the fathers’ Day special, which was an evening excursion around Surrey and Hampshire with a 4 course dinner. We were hauled by the first main line steam locomotive built for 50 years. The A1 60163 Class Tornado The renowned Peppercorn class A1 steam locomotives were scrapped in 1966 but this brand new class A1.60163 Tornado was brought to life by a dedicated team of volunteers. The Peppercorn class A1s were the last of the great express passenger locomotives. Throughout the 1950s the majestic A1s pulled luxury Pullman trains from London to Yorkshire and the North East. They were the last word in speed, style and glamour. Our locomotive was officially named Tornado by TRH The Prince of Wales and The Duchess of Cornwall at York station in February 2009. Tornado subsequently starred in an episode of Top Gear in 2009, racing a Jaguar XK120 and a Vincent Black Shadow motorcycle from London to Edinburgh with Jeremy Clarkson on the footplate. Excursions page 20 - 21:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 11:48 AM There was a real sense of anticipation as we waited in the crowd to board and the beautiful, green engine did not disappoint. All down the line there were groups of people waiting to photograph our progress and there seemed to be spectators at many a bedroom window, all waving and some cheering. We soon settled into our comfortable seats- I had forgotten how spacious and comfy seats used to be. It actually took a little time to get used to the movement as we are all so used now to the smooth gliding of our modern trains. However, we were soon feeling that old excitement and anticipation as we chugged through the countryside on a balmy summer evening. It took me straight back to being treated to trips on the Brighton Belle when I was a child. Soon everyone was glued to their little maps, plotting our course as we made our stately way to the Hampshire coast and back. During the journey we were served champagne and appetizers to get us into the spirit and then a delicious, unhurried 4 course meal starting with a pea, Brie, basil and tomato tartlet with baby leaves served with a basket of mixed breads. The main course was a Sunday favourite – roast pork with spiced apple sauce and the best crackling I’ve had for a long time. Aptly we had summer pudding with clotted cream for pudding and then a selection of English cheeses with grapes, celery and biscuits. The whole meal was excellent and washed down with a smooth house red. So by the time we got to coffee and mints we were feeling very mellow and relaxed as the countryside panned out before us. We were sorry to leave our train at Waterloo when the time came to return to the present and get the tube home. I am sure we will go on another trip quite soon. Many of the people we met were regulars and I can see why. Steam Dreams have a full programme available all year including for Christmas trips Excursions Page 2 which include Christmas markets and carol services in some of our loveliest cathedrals. You can splash out on the champagne breakfast and dinner, book a picnic box or take your own picnic and buy drinks form the buffet. Either way, it’s a lovely family day out and especially if you have a steam train enthusiast or a Thomas the Tank Engine devotee in the family. For details go to www.steamdreams.co.uk 21 page 22:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 11:54 AM Page 1 All aboard for the West Somerset Railway T he West Somerset Railway continues to see an increasing number of coach and group bookings to ride over its 20 miles of standard gauge line running between Bishops Lydeard (4 miles from Taunton – M5 Jnc. 25) and Minehead. In the 80 minute journey passengers are conveyed through the Quantock Hills, an area of Outstanding Natural Beauty) and along the Exmoor Coast. 22 There are ten stations along the WSR. Crowcombe Heathfield and Stogumber are popular starting points for walkers whilst Watchet is in the middle of the old harbour town which dates back to Saxon times at least. . Washford houses a railway museum and also serves Cleeve Abbey (English Heritage) and a working cider farm. Dunster serves a medieval village complete with Castle (National Trust) and Minehead is in the centre of the town, across the road from the beach. Group discounts are available for groups of 16 or more adults or senior citizens with extra discount for groups travelling on Mondays and Fridays. Chartering of whole trains is also possible. Details can be obtained by ringing 01643 704996 or seen at www.west-somerset-railway.co.uk. Excursions page 23:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 12:00 PM Page 1 MAPLEDURHAM HOUSE Mapledurham House and watermill, tucked away on the borders of Oxfordshire and Berkshire, is a wonderful venue for an afternoons visit. Many of our visitors arrive by boat from nearby Caversham – a very pleasant trip along a most stunning stretch of the River Thames. On arrival, visitors can visit the last working watermill on the Thames, where flour is still ground today and also the magnificent Mapledurham House, still the home of the descendants of the Blount family and which has been in the family for over 500 years. The house is Elizabethan and has interesting literary connections with Alexander Pope, a frequent visitor to Mapledurham. The estate boasts several Excursions quaint cottages, many of which are listed buildings. Some of the cottages and houses are let to staff whilst the remainder are leased to tenants who, inevitably, want to escape the rat race and live in the beautiful, oasis of beauty and serenity that is Mapledurham. Mapledurham has been the setting for film and television productions, the most famous being “The Eagle has Landed” back in 1976. More recently, we have welcomed Midsomer Murders (once in 2004 and again in 2010) and Miss Marple in 2010. At the heart of the estate, we have a superb milking parlour, home to our fine herd of Holstein Frisian cows, where the milking is carried out three times a day on our rotary parlour. Mapledurham Estate is also home to Caversham Heath Golf Club, a championship all year round course. Lunch can be enjoyed in the bar area with stunning views over the golf course. There is a daily specials board as well as the standard lunch or light bites menu. We host many events at Mapledurham and have several planned for 2011. These include a craft fair, game and country fair, open-air performances of The Taming of the Shrew and Snow White, battle re-enactment, falconry day, and a children’s workshop production of Wind in the Willows. Last year, we hosted our first ever RAF Prom Picnic Concert and we are delighted to welcome back the bands of RAF Halton and RAF Wyton for another evening of wonderful music. We are also pleased to make a donation from every ticket sold at this event to the worthy charity Help for Heroes. Our Christmas carol service with Santa moved venue last year to the warmer Caversham Heath Golf Club. Our younger guests enjoyed visiting Santa in his grotto whilst mums and dads listened to carols by the Chalgrove Band. The evening was a success so we plan to repeat this again for next Christmas. The grounds are also used for various private events, such as wedding receptions, family fun days, corporate entertainment, summer balls etc. Full details of all events from: www.mapledurham.co.uk 23 page 24:LIL 13.qxd 24 2/25/2011 12:10 PM Page 1 Excursions page 25:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 12:16 PM Page 1 HAYLING ISLAND & EMSWORTH Beach Life, Harbours and walks he Havant Borough has a great deal to offer from local history to the home of huge events such as the Emsworth Food Festival. Hayling Island is a popular area of the borough, which has excellent beaches, and strong history of watersports. Back in 1958, Peter Chilvers introduced windsurfing to the Island and those ties with the popular water sport are still as strong as ever today. There is a designated area for windsurfing on what must be one of the most visitor friendly shorelines in the country. Hayling Island is the only place in the UK able to boast two European Blue Flag Awards. The attention that has been given to disabled access - boardwalks over the shingle give wheelchair users access to the beach and some of the beach huts have been adapted as well. The Island also has several popular open spaces including the area behind the beach for picnics and barbecues, a beach volleyball court, adventure playground, nine-hole golf course and a Seaside Railway line to get around on. Not only is the area popular with watersports but also homes the SSSI (Site of Special Scientific Interest), Local Nature Reserve and Hayling Billy Line. These attractive sites are great for walkers, wildlife enthusiasts and Cyclists. There are two more attractive waterside locations worth visiting in and around the Borough; Emsworth and Langstone Harbour. T The charming village of Emsworth Excursions Emsworth is a small quaint fishing village, which has boutique shops, local businesses and excellent restaurants. The village also has a Mill Pond, which also attracts visitors. Langstone is also a very picturesque village situated on the shoe as well as the beautiful countryside. Langstone has the fortunate views of Chichester Harbour. As is the case with many other places along the South Coast, Havant acts as a link between the sea and the rolling countryside which can be found just a few miles inland. This is shown by the number of walks which start on the shoreline and stretch for many miles into the countryside. One example of this is the Staunton Way, which starts at Langstone and runs all the way to the Queen Elizabeth Country Park near Petersfield. There are several other wonderful walking routes surround the Borough and going through the Borough including Staunton Way, Hangers Way, Test Way, Solent Way and not forgetting the magnificent South Downs. years ago all the best hotels and restaurants in London were supplied daily with Emsworth oysters by train). This historic, picturesque, old fishing village set on beautiful Chichester Harbour between Portsmouth and Chichester probably has more quality restaurants and public houses, not to mention independent food retailers, per square mile than any other comparable village in England. Emsworth was also renowned for its breweries and the trading of coal although all that remains to remind us of this are the Sussex Brewery and the Coal Exchange pubs, two of Emsworth’s very hospitable bars with their own special approach to pub food. The historic home of P.G. Wodehouse, Emsworth is now more famous for it stunning architecture, quay, sailing clubs, mill ponds and …food! Emsworth boasts five excellent and diverse restaurants and ten pubs, most of whom serve good wholesome home-cooked fare and four cafés. Food for thought - think Emsworth The village has that wonderful community atmosphere that sadly seems to be a feature of days gone by in most other towns and villages. There is a wide variety of shops ranging from a delicatessen, two traditional butchers (one specialising in sausages, the other incorporating a fishmonger), two greengrocers and two bakers. It is thus the perfect setting for what has now become the region’s leading food festival. Taking place over three days every third weekend in September each year, this is an event that no food lover could fail to enjoy. Whether it’s fresh oysters on the fishing quay, lunch or dinner in one of the village’s restaurants or purely strolling through the Festival’s eighty or so food-related stalls, this is The food festival that you really should not miss. As in previous years, Emsworth restaurants and public houses will be providing a variety of special menus and events and there will be almost continuous street entertainment. It will also be building on its incredibly popular cookery demonstrations and tutored wine tasting. The Food Festival, as well as being a destination for lovers of food, is also very much a community project and we are delighted that we have managed to involve so many different elements of our community. Some of the activities here are only taking place on one day, others throughout the event but, if you can, take the time to visit them and see just how active our local community is. Emsworth in Hampshire is a beautiful village lying at the top of a channel in Chichester Harbour, nestled between the South Downs and the sea close to Portsmouth and Chichester. The village has a strong fishing, sailing and boat building heritage but is most famous for producing oysters (up until 100 25 page 26 - 27:LIL 13.qxd 26 2/25/2011 12:26 PM Page 1 Excursions page 26 - 27:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 12:27 PM Page 2 train to get you around if your legs are weary, your day will be filled with wonder and the delights of nature. Group admission prices apply to parties of just 12 or more and 1 adult is admitted free for every 12 paying guests. Coach parking, entry and lunch is also free for coach drivers. Also this year we are developing the formal gardens outside our 14th century Marwell Hall in the centre of the park. Learn about the history of trees in the park with a FREE ‘Travel in Time with a Tree’ trail, available to pick up in the park. Journey This year at Marwell Wildlife (the conservation charity running a 140-acre zoological park near Winchester in Hampshire), there are 8 new species of reptile in ‘Cold Blooded Corner’ – some which can’t be seen in public anywhere else in the UK such as the lined flat-tail gecko from Madagascar. Savannah Tracks is a fantastic new home for cheetahs giving spectacular views over their area, now almost twice the size, and including a raised wooden walkway and covered outpost. A visit to Marwell is a chance to get close to the wonders of the natural world – and play a big part in helping to save them. They warmly welcome group visits and provide all the facilities you need for a wonderful day out at any time of year. With over 225 species of fascinating animals – many of which are endangered – and a free road around Marwell and learn about the fascinating history to these natural giants. From the smallleaved lime - home to an abundance of mistletoe - to the slow-growing yew tree, which is over 700 years old! Explore Marwell’s oak, horse chestnut, box and cedar (with a girth of 5 and a half metres!) and finish the trail at Marwell’s new Formal Garden where visitors can take inspiration from the dovecote, knot, parterre and potager gardens. For more info and to download a booking form, please go to www.marwell.org.uk/groups or you can call Sue for more details on 01962777965. Marwell opens every day (except Christmas and Boxing Day) at 10am. Peak days – until 6pm, Standard days until 5pm and Off peak days until 4pm. Last entry is 90 mins before closing time. Allow four to five hours for your visit if you want to take it all in, or combine a visit to the area with a look or tour around historic Winchester. Marwell Wildlife, Thompsons Lane Colden Common Winchester Hants SO21 1JH www.marwell.org.uk Excursions 27 page 28:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 12:37 PM Page 1 Hawks & Horses by Gale Gould s a conservation charity education is a huge part of our remit and making the learning experience fun but meaningful brings many challenges. At the Hawk Conservancy Trust we believe that one is never too old to learn and we provide a range of activities, from Welcome Talks to experience days, suitable for all ages, that give an insight into the interdependent relationship between of man and raptor, and the work of the Trust in conserving bird of prey species. The history of falconry predates the pyramids and has shaped many of our present customs and language. The words ‘mantelpiece’, ‘old codger’, and ‘boozer’ and even common expressions such as ‘a fair exchange is no robbery’ and ‘a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush’ come from falconry. In celebration of the historical and cultural impact of falconry upon human society the Trust have introduced a medieval vignette into the ‘Valley of the Eagles’ flying demonstration. ‘Hawks & Horses’ is a peek into history like no other and two rather special members of ‘staff’ have been employed to illustrate the lesson. Murphy is an Irish Draught horse standing at 17.2 hands high, whilst Samson, a part-Shire horse, stands at a massive 18.2 hands high. Both horses take part in a daily historical reenactment, over the summertime, which sees a mounted falconry display and staff dressed in A 28 medieval costume. Chief Executive Officer, Ashley Smith, said ‘we are always trying to find ways to educate our visitors in as entertaining a way as possible. This new display, which is set to music, demonstrates the partnerships which existed between man, horse and falcon. We also include other characters such the maiden with her merlin and the ‘cadgeman’, from which the name caddy and old ‘codger’ comes from. ‘Hawks & Horses’ is a highly choreographed display and we have been rehearsing and training for months. Now we are ready for our visitors to see the finished display and I certainly hope that they approve!’ The display requires a high level of equitation and falconry skills as the birds and horses are moving at speed. There is also a huge element of trust and synchronisation between the participants as they recreate a scene that would have been common in times gone by. The task of training the hawks and horses fell to Assistant Curator, Jimmy Robinson. Jimmy, who had to choose between a career in horse-riding or falconry as a lad, explains, ‘it’s great to finally be able to combine my two favourite occupations – horse-riding and falconry! Our birds of prey responded really well to the training and Samson and Murphy were really quick on the up-take too. Once upon a time falconry from horseback would have been a fairly common sight in the countryside. But now the Hawk Conservancy Trust is one of the only places in the country where you will see it.’ The Hawk Conservancy Trust is a registered charity and award winning visitor attraction that has for many years worked in the fields of conservation, education, rehabilitation and the research of birds of prey. The Trust is set in 22 acres of woodland and wild flower meadow, where there are over 150 birds of prey on view from the tiny Pygmy Owl to the impressive European Griffin Vulture. Located near Andover, Hampshire, the Trust is less than half a mile from the A303 – the main arterial route from London and the South West – and has more than 55,000 visitors per year. The Trust has been a specialist bird of prey centre for over 25 years and the staff are recognised as being among the best falconers in the world. Every visitor can hold a bird of prey to get close to and have an appreciation of these fascinating creatures. The Hawk Conservancy Trust is open all year round (closing only Christmas Day and Boxing Day), with a recommended visit time of at least five or six hours. There is ample parking, and a Trust shop and coffee shop on site. Hawk Conservancy Trust Visitor Centre, Sarson Lane, Weyhill, Andover, Hampshire, SP11 8DY Tel: 01264 773850 Fax: 01264 773772 E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.hawkconservancy.org Excursions page 29:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 12:49 PM Page 1 Get back to Nature with the RSPB e all have our own take on a great day out. You might like a quiet retreat, somewhere to get away from the outside world and not see many other human beings all day. You might just like somewhere to meet a friend, have an unfeasibly large piece of cake and wash it down with endless cups of tea. Or you might want to take a coach group out for a lovely countryside walk and a delicious lunch. Whatever you want from a day out, RSPB nature reserves have something for you. And best of all, with over 200 reserves around the UK, there’s bound to be one close by. A good number of our reserves have space for coaches to park and around 30 of these have visitors centres, accessible footpaths and toilets. RSPB reserves include every conceivable type of landscape the UK has to offer. Heathland, woodland, wetland, marshland and reedbeds are interspersed with open water, pathways and picturesque places to set up camp with a picnic and take in your surroundings. Coastal reserves, including Bempton Cliffs in Yorkshire, offer walks where you can get so close to the wildlife you can actually smell it. Minsmere, in Suffolk, with its shingle beech, wetlands, hides and visitors centre offers a great diversity of experiences, great walks and fantastic scenery. And visitor centres at many reserves mean you can sit snugly afterwards and enjoy even more stunning views before you leave. You can roam around RSPB nature reserves at your leisure or most sites offer guided walks if you want your day out organised for you. If you like to get up with the larks, early morning bird walks will introduce you to some of the species you’ll be sharing your day with. Guided walks around reserves of all landscapes will help you get familiar with the site and figure out which parts you want to go back to and explore further. As well as endless walking opportunities, from brisk strolls to a few miles’ trek, RSPB nature reserves offer unrivalled experiences W Excursions with wildlife. From the orchestral dawn chorus to hares boxing, red deer cooling their feet in a stream to zillions of seabirds on the cliffs, each reserve offers something different. Knowing that all sorts of creatures are going about their business as you enjoy your day out can’t fail to give you a lift. It won’t take you long once you’ve arrived at an RSPB reserve to realise that they’re not just great places for birds, mammals, bugs and other wildlife – they’re fantastic places for people too. Far from being places where people are kept out with fences, at arms length from all the interesting and beautiful stuff, RSPB nature reserves are welcoming, inclusive places. As you wander around, bear in mind that nature reserves don’t look after themselves, despite how wild and natural they appear. The RSPB carefully tends and manages each and every site, as if it didn’t they would soon deteriorate and lose much of their value for wildlife. And if that happened, folk like you and me wouldn’t have this endless supply of spectacular walks at every turn. This one example doesn’t even touch on the breadth of work being done to create your perfect walk, but habitats for wildlife, which you can enjoy too, are being created all over the UK, so come and visit us soon. For more information please visit www.rspb.org.uk/reserves or if you would like to organise a group visit then go to www.rspb.org.uk/grouptravel or for a leaflet all about bringing groups to RSPB nature reserves ring the Group Travel hotline on 01767 793078. 29 page 30 - 31:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 1:04 PM Page 1 Walk on the wild side Looking for a fascinating day out with a difference? Why not get closer to wildlife with a visit to one of our nine WWT wetland visitor centres across the UK include a collection of rare birds, an interactive discovery centre, a ‘bird airport’ observatory, a restaurant, six wildlife hides, an adventure playground and more. In 2009, Sir Peter Scott’s centenary was marked with the opening of a bat house inspired by an award-winning artist, adding an extra ‘wow’ factor to the centre’s ever-popular summer bat walks. London Wetlands Centre, Barnes, SW13 9WT 020 8409 4400; [email protected]/ london Photograph: Heather Tait trip to a WWT centre has something for everyone. Walks for every ability level, the chance to view rare birds and an array of other wildlife and plants, canoe safaris, art exhibitions, play areas for kids and restaurants situated in the most tranquil of settings are just a few of the attractions our network of wetland conservation reserves offer. It’s this diverse selection of activities – from bird hides for the keenest bird-watcher to view kingfishers from to mountain bike trails for the more active outdoor enthusiast – that make a WWT centre the perfect place for an organised group visit. We cater for groups of every description and size with groups of 12 or more people receiving a range of benefits and discounts. Packages offered may vary slightly from one centre to another, but all provide discounted admission to groups of 12 or more who book ahead, free coach parking and refreshments for the driver and the option to pre-book guided tours, walks and refreshments to make the day even more special. Visit http://www.wwt.org.uk/visit- A Photograph: Heather Tait 30 us/group-visits. WWT Slimbridge is where Sir Peter Scott started WWT in 1946, leading to it often being described as the birthplace of modern conservation. Today, an award-winning visitor centre, filled with ‘see-and-do’ displays, leads into the reserve: 325 hectares of world-class wetlands set against a spectacular Severn Estuary backdrop. The reserve is a sanctuary for a huge array of year-round and visiting water-birds and a rich variety of other wetlands life, including otters. Well-placed paths and vantage points, Land Rover rides and canoe safaris guarantee the thrill of close encounters. Special seasonal events add to the enjoyment, with downy duckling days a spring/summer favourite and floodlit swan feeds a highlight of winter. Slimbridge, Gloucestershire, GL2 7BT 01453 891900; [email protected] www.wwt.org.uk/slimbridge WWT Martin Mere is where wilderness and family-friendliness combine. In winter, many thousands of wild ducks, geese and swans are drawn to the internationally-rated wetlands, offering spectacular displays of feather and flight. But there is plenty to see and do at Martin Mere all year round, with more than 100 types of rare and endangered water-birds, a family of beavers and enchanting otters in residence, an imaginative playground for young adventurers and an inspirational eco-garden. Seasonal attractions include an award-winning duckling nursery, celebrations of local history and wildlife gardening, and a rolling programme of events, walks and talks. Martin Mere, Lancashire, L40 0TA (t) 01704 895181; [email protected] ; www.wwt.org.uk/martinmere WWT London is the best urban wildlife site in Europe. Located next to the Thames, it is close to the heart of the capital, but, as The Times reported recently: “When you enter, you leave London behind”. Bustle gives way to tranquil scenes of greenery-flanked pools inhabited by rare and beautiful wildlife including bitterns, kingfishers and water voles. Other attractions WWT Arundel is a 65-acre reserve in an idyllic setting, nestled at the base of the South Downs National Park. Gliding through the reed beds in silent electric boats is the best opportunity in Britain to glimpse a rare water vole or see vividly-coloured kingfishers. Another prized resident is the nene, the goose saved from extinction by WWT founder Sir Peter Scott and still one of the world’s rarest water-birds. Springtime fills the valley with wildflowers and warbler songs; summer brings exciting ponddipping discoveries; as winter starts, Bewick’s swans return and water rails emerge. Yearround attractions include a pond skaters adventure, a tree creeper play area and daily hand-feeding of the many birds. Visit our website for a full listing of our exciting, seasonal events. Arundel, West Sussex, BN18 9PB 01903 883355; [email protected]; www. wwt.org.uk/arundel WWT Welney is the place to catch one of the most magical sights in Britain’s nature calendar: gatherings of up to 9,000 swans and ducks, exiled from the Arctic by cold and overwintering amid the centre’s 1,000 acre expanse of fenland. Welney isn’t only a winter place, though, for wildfowl or people! Its eco-friendly visitor centre is always packed with interest; other attractions include vast flocks of summer waders, wildflowers, butterflies, dragonflies, the Fenland’s World exhibition, and avocets –the elegant, long-legged, water-bird, once declared extinct in the UK but now fast-reviving. A lively programme of seasonal walks, talks, displays and activities runs all year-round, and the walks along the Ouse Washes are, simply, unmissable. Welney, Norfolk, PE14 9TN (t) 01353 860711; [email protected] ; wwt.org.uk/welney WWT Washington offers unforgettable noseto-beak bird encounters in a lovely and varied landscape of wetlands, woodlands, and meadows, inhabited by ducks, geese waders, flamingos, cranes, herons, frogs, dragonflies, butterflies, bats and even goats. Lapwing and rare avocet are among the species which can be seen from the many wild bird hides while colourful bullfinches are regulars at the Hawthorn Wood feeding station. Family favourites include downy duckling days and animal magic, the splashzone, regular workshops and daily bird feeds, walks and Excursions page 30 - 31:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 1:04 PM Page 2 talks. A fleet of free-to-use wheelchairs and mobility scooters ensures access for all. Washington, Tyne & Wear, NE38 8LE 0191 416 5454; www. wwt.org.uk/washington WWT Caerlaverock is WWT’s most northerly outpost – a spectacular 1,400 acre wild reserve on the north Solway coast. Get away from it all and immerse yourself in the sights and sounds of nature. A place where the wild world still has the power to touch, thrill and inspire. The Solway is renowned as the winter home of the Svalbard barnacle geese, numbering up to 30,000 birds. Caerlaverock also welcomes thousands of other wintering birds including whooper swans from Iceland. In summer explore the wildflower meadows and watch ospreys hunting over the Solway or via a live CCTV camera from the nest. Barn owls, badgers, natterjack toads and tadpole shrimps are also a delight. Caerlaverock, Dumfriesshire, DG1 4RS 01387 770200; [email protected]; www.wwt.org.uk/caerlaverock Photograph: Heather Tait WWT Castle Espie now features Irelands most significant habitat improvement of its kind and is also hailed as an example of best practice for sustainable design and for illustrating what is needed to make sure visitors are guaranteed a memorable day out. The visitor centre is an attraction in its own right with its range of new eco-friendly features. Beyond it lies a magical mix of restored lagoons, woodland walks, grassland, salt marshes and reed beds, already populated with Ireland’s largest collection of native and exotic water-birds and dotted with habitats for other wildlife including otters, bats and dragonflies. An added bonus is a lively Excursions programme of walks, talks, activity days and art exhibitions. Castle Espie, County Down, BT23 6EA 028 9187 4146 [email protected]; wwt.org.uk/castleespie The National Wetland Centre Wales is a 450 acre mosaic of lakes, pools and lagoons created on the scenic Burry Inlet to mark the Millennium. It is home to many hundreds of wild and captive species as diverse as dragonflies and little egrets. Borrow a bicycle to get to the hidden corners of the site following family-friendly trails or, in warmer months, take a jungle explorer-style tour by canoe. Many of the resident species are tame enough to feed by hand. Walks, talks and themed activities take place all year round and no visit is complete without a stop at water vole city, the Millennium discovery centre or the cafe, with its commanding views of the estuary. National Wetland Centre Wales, Carmarthenshire, SA14 9SH 01554 741087; www. wwt.org.uk/llanelli 31 page 32:LIL 13.qxd 32 2/25/2011 1:14 PM Page 1 Excursions page 33:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 1:19 PM Page 1 Moore at Living Crafts in May 2011 major event in the crafts calendar, Living Crafts will be held at Hatfield House, Hertfordshire from Thursday 5 – Sunday 8 May. Attracting thousands of visitors each day, the show promotes the very best of professional British craftsmanship. Living Crafts is the premier craft event in Europe with an enviable reputation for the wide range and high quality of design in both contemporary and traditional crafts. The unique skills of our British designer-makers are celebrated, from innovative new designs and techniques to heritage skills in rural traditional crafts This year, to celebrate its 400th anniversary, Hatfield House will be hosting a major exhibition by Henry Moore ‘Moore at Hatfield’. Fourteen dramatic sculptures will be enjoyed in formal and woodland settings, the first solo exhibition of Moore’s work in the grounds of a historic house. Sculptors exhibiting at Living Crafts will display their beautiful sculptures featuring bronze, wood, clay, contemporary, stainless steel and wire in a Sculpture Park. Visitors will be able to watch sculpting demonstrations and have a go themselves. The show is held on the Elizabeth Oak showground where visitors enjoy meeting the craftsmen, buying, discussing their work and placing unique commissions or personalising a special piece at the show. As a show with a great creative atmosphere there are jazz and brass bands, traditional dancing and children’s storytelling adding to visitors’ enjoyment. Lectures, demonstrations and workshops are a key feature together with a huge variety of outdoor large scale demonstrations which are very popular attractions. To experience Living Crafts in action please watch the podcast at www.livingcrafts.co.uk. A Excursions LINCOLN HOUSE HOTEL 33 Gloucester Place, London W1U 8HY www.lincoln-house-hotel.co.uk or call 0207 486 7630 “The cosy Lincoln House Hotel in Gloucester Place W1” is a delightfully hospitable bed and breakfast hotel of Georgian Townhouse character, built at the end of 18th Century at the time of King George III. We are situated in a prime location close to central London's diverse scenes and activities, near Marble Arch and Oxford Street Station. We offer a relaxed and welcoming atmosphere with modern comforts. Please note that our tariff is competitive and includes a Full English Breakfast, tax and service. For the last two years running we have been awarded the first prize for our outstanding floral displays. Our hotel is ideal for business, shopping and leisure trips. 33 page 34:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 1:31 PM Page 1 Where to stay in London Beautiful Bournemouth Anyone for Tennis? Great ‘Days’ in London Bourne Hall Hotel Days Hotel Waterloo The independent Bourne Hall Hotel is a family-run centrally located hotel close to the town centre and just a few minutes stroll from the safe sandy beaches, shows and shops and the Bournemouth International Centre. Happy and affordable, this family-run hotel with 2 Star AA accreditation is easy to find right in the heart of Bournemouth’s lively West Cliff. Bars, restaurants, cliff-top walks and family entertainment are all around. It’s also a great starting point to explore the Dorset countryside, Jurassic Coast World Heritage Site and historic New Forest. Situated on the West Cliff, less than quarter of a mile from the Bournemouth International Centre and a couple of minutes stroll from beaches, town centre, gardens and all entertainments, the Bourne Hall Hotel is ideal for conference delegates, theatre trips, a spot of retail therapy or a leisure break - anytime of year. Free parking, great food freshly prepared by our resident chef and complimentary use of nearby luxury leisure club and other privileged leisure arrangements. For your next leisure break, group booking, conference visit or private function, 50-bedroom Bourne Hall is perfectly placed to please, with 24 hour opening too. And that’s not all. Bourne Hall guests can use the luxury facilities of nearby leisure club. including iIndoor and outdoor heated pools, jacuzzi, sauna, steam room and fitness suite with free weights and CV equipment. Plus, if you would like to party the night away, the Bourne is perfectly placed for parties, discos and dances for up to 150 people. A choice of rooms means smaller events are also welcome. Room and equipment hire, late bar, entertainment and room dressing can all be arranged together with a choice of sit down or buffet menus. Contact Bourne Hall Hotel, 14 Priory Road, West Cliff, Bournemouth, BH2 5DN Tel: 01202 299715 Fax: 01202 552669 Email: [email protected] www.bournehall.co.uk 34 Goodenough Guesthouse If you are coming to London and are looking for accommodation, why not try the Goodenough Guesthouse, a Victorian terraced house that has been receiving guests from all around the world for many years, and has been on the Internet since 1994. visit their informative website where the all essential information is available in a number of languages: English, French, German, Russian, Japanese and Italian. The accommodation offered is very clean and comfortable, and the rooms are bright and spacious. Guests tell us we are very hospitable, and the atmosphere is relaxed, friendly and informal. All the rooms have a TV, and English (sausages, bacon, eggs and tomato) or Continental breakfast is included. Tea and coffee are also available at all times. There is also off-street parking provided. Whether you are sightseeing in London, coming for the world-famous Tennis Championships, or here on business, you will find the accommodation is ideal. Just 6 or 7 minutes from the main Wimbledon station, from where you can take the fast National Rail service to London Waterloo (15 minutes), or the District Line Underground. Wimbledon is a prosperous and very safe suburb in South West London, with a large shopping centre and a vibrant nightlife. The current prices are: Single: £35 or £45 per night; Single Occupancy in Double room: from £45 to £60 per night; Twin or Double: from £55 to £70 per night; En-Suite Twin or Double: from £70 to £90 per night. Please note: these prices are for Wimbledon accommodation, but there is also slightly cheaper accommodation available in Raynes Park and Mitcham. For all enquiries, please email Kate ([email protected]). If you have any allergies (e.g., cats, dogs, smoke etc.) or any specific requirements (e.g., private en-suite bathroom, early arrival, English breakfast etc.), please be sure to mention these in your email. If you require accommodation at short notice, or if you do not receive a reply within 24 hours, please telephone on 020 8715 7945. For all enquiries, please email [email protected]. If you have any allergies (e.g., cats, dogs, smoke etc.) or any specific requirements (e.g., private en-suite bathroom, early arrival, English breakfast etc.), please be sure to mention these in your email. Contact The Goodenough Guest House, 4 Goodenough Road, Wimbledon, London, SW19 3QW 020 8715 7945 www.larsol.demon.co.uk The hotel is ideally situated for London's West End theatres, cinemas, art galleries, museums, and shopping. We are located opposite the Imperial War museum, just 10 minutes walk from Waterloo Station and the London Eye. You can reach our Hotel by Bus, Rail and Underground. The hotel is within easy reach of Waterloo Station (10min walk.) Lambeth North underground station is 2 minutes walk away and a number of buses (59-Kind's Cross, 159-Oxford Circus, 148-Victoria) stop right by the hotel. Accommodation All our 162 contemporary furnished rooms feature ensuite bathrooms with power showers and we also have a limited amount of wheelchair accessible rooms with roll in showers.Bring the Kids along and stay in our family rooms that can accommodate up to 2 adults and 2 children. Our standard rooms feature either one double or two single beds. Each room comes with ensuite shower facilities, tea & coffee making facilities, direct dial telephone, 26" flat screen LCD TV with 23 Freeview and foreign language channels. Bring the Kids along and stay in our family rooms that can accommodate up to 2 adults and 2 children. As these rooms are limited, please contact the hotel directly to make your booking. Restaurant Our restaurant caters to all tastes and is open for: Breakfast: 6:30am to 10:00am Monday to Friday. 7:00am to 11:00am Saturday, Sunday and Bank Holidays. Continental Breakfast: £6.95 English Breakfast: £8.95. Dinner: 5:30pm to 10:00pm Monday through Saturday and 5:30pm to 9:30pm on Sunday. The Bar Our bar is open 24 hours a day for our guests and their legitimate guests. It features a great selection of local and foreign drinks at very reasonable prices. Happy Hour: between 6:00pm and 8:00pm daily. Any beer or a small glass of wine is just £2.50. Our Bar and Lounge area is open 24 hours a day where you can enjoy a refreshing drink and watch the match of the day on our 50" big screen TV., and if the weather allows, you can enjoy a pint outside in our beer garden. Accessibility Our hotel is fully compliant under the disability discrimination act. We have a number of wheelchair accessible rooms that feature specialy adapted bathrooms with handrails and roll in showers. Contact Days Hotel Waterloo, 54 Kennington Road, London, SE1 7BJ. Tel: +44 (0) 207 922 1331 Fax: +44 (0) 207 922 1441 [email protected] www.hotelwaterloo.com Excursions page 35:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 1:37 PM Page 1 WINE & DINE with Acrise Faulkner A Taste for Romance eep in the heart of Covent Garden is arguably the most romantic restaurant in central London, Clos Maggiore’s in King Street. It is an oasis of calm in this bustling area serving good food in a lovely setting. From the minute you step through the door you feel spoiled and cosseted. The rooms are warm and intimate especially the conservatory at the back with its fully retractable roof which is lovely for the summer months. In the autumn and winter months the atmosphere is transformed by candlelight and the crackling of the open fire. I have been several times and have never been disappointed by the expertise of the cooking influenced, they say, by the stylish country inns of Provence and Tuscany. The last time I went was on a Saturday lunchtime when they have a special prix fixe menu. My companion and I both had Isle of Wight crab with a majoram celery remoulade to start, which was well executed and then, though I hesitated over the lamb, I chose 24 day aged charolais beef with mushroom and herb agnoloti a stroganoff sauce, parmentier potatoes and spinach. The beef was succulent and so tender my knife just slipped through it. My friend chose the oven roasted corn fed chicken breast with crispy polenta, Alsace bacon cream and some of my spinach. She said it was so lovely she could eat it all over again. There is a long wine list but we just stuck to the suggestion on the menu, a satisfying South African Shiraz. From the dessert menu I nearly D Turkish Delight went for my usual selection of ice cream and sorbets, but was intrigued by the limoncello and olive oil tiramisu with amalfi lemon and thyme sorbet. I was not disappointed. It was luscious! My friend who has a less sweet tooth chose the cheese board, which is a real speciality of the house. There is a separate menu of about a dozen cheeses from across Europe, selected at their peak and served with hand baked biscuits and quince jelly. I wish they sold postcards of the cheese board. It is wonderful but I always get sidetracked by the desserts. We finished up with excellent coffee and petits fours and vowed to return soon – I must get to that cheese course one day! The à la carte menu is certainly not exactly cheap but it is a real treat. However, the weekend prix fixe menu is excellent value at £19.50 for 3 courses or £24.50 for 2 courses and half a bottle of wine. Coffee and petits fours are extra. One or two dishes carry a supplement including the amazing cheese platter, but are worth it. If you are looking for good food in lovely surroundings and great service in the midst of the West End, then treat yourself! Clos Maggiore’s 33 King Street, Covent Garden WC2E 8JD Tel: 020 7379 9696 www.closmaggiore.com Tas Restaurant in Bloomsbury By Acrise Faulkner e were meeting up with friends for an early evening meal after a visit to the British Museum. I suggested we tried the Tas on the corner of Bloomsbury Street. I pass that corner every day on the way to work and until the Tas chain took it over, nothing ever seemed to stay there for more than a few months. Tas, it seems, has broken the mould and certainly looks as if it’s here to stay for quit a while. The restaurant is large and airy with lots of large plants outside and the menu is inviting at any time of the day. W When we arrived our friends were already sitting down sipping pomegranate juice and trying to decide what to have. One of my friends is a vegetarian and this is the ideal place for her. Lots of the starters and 14 main courses are suitable for vegetarians and that’s not counting the huge selection of fish dishes. We started with the meze and decided to share a selection with some delicious home made bread. We picked kisir, (crushed walnuts, hazelnut, bulgur wheat, tomato sauce , parsley, dill , mint and spring onions), taramasalata, cacik ( cucumber, mint and yoghurt), patlican-biber kizartma (fried aubergine, red and green peppers in tomato sauce and yoghurt), calamari and midye tava (fried mussels on a skewer with garlic sauce). We had to force ourselves to stop at that point Excursions as you really could make a complete meal out of the meze. It was all lovely and we could have gone on picking forever! The main courses were equally good. My vegetarian friend had a very tasty mantar (mushrooms, onions, tomatoes, peppers and garlic with cashar cheese). Her husband tried the ciger izgara ( lambs liver with sumac and red onion) which he said would convert any “offalaphobic” like me. My third companion had a traditional pirsali kofte which was a lamb kebab on pan fried leeks and I had my favourite karides guveç, a wonderful prawn stew. With some rice or coucous and a simple salad this was a really satisfying and delicious meal. Unfortunately, they didn’t have a Yakut red wine and though the house red was adequate, I’d rather have paid the extra pound or so for an Italian, but it slipped down quite easily anyway. The puddings are a mixture of traditional Turkish and European. The baklava and kunefe were both good and would satisfy any sweet tooth anywhere. The sutlaç was new to my friend who pronounced it a scrummy rice pudding with rose water and I had home made ice cream. I chose coconut, cinnamon and vanilla and was very pleased with my choice which seemed a really refreshing way to end the meal. We couldn’t manage Turkish coffee but I am sure it would have been good and one of the charming waiters would have stepped in to tell our fortunes from the coffee tails. Tas really is worth a visit if you are in the area and there are branches all over town. It is just the place for a light lunch or longer dinner. Whenever you decide to go, you are sure of a warm welcome from the staff and good value. Tas Restaurant 22 Bloomsbury Street, London, WC1 (near Tottenham Crt Rd Tube) Tel: 020 7637 4555 020 7 637 1333 Meal with 3 courses and wine about £20-£25 per head 35 page 36 - 37:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 The Georgian Hotel is a traditional hotel in the heart of London. It provides a home from home atmosphere in quality rooms within a traditional Georgian seing. Located just minutes from Baker Street, and within walking distance of Oxford Street, Regents Park, Hyde Park, and the exclusive doctors' quarter of Harley Street, it provides a picturesque base for sightseeing, business trips, and family stays. 87 Gloucester Place, (near Baker Street) London, W1U 6JF Phone : 01480 212898 Fax : 01480 212880 [email protected] 36 1:49 PM Page 1 HOTELS AND RESTAURANTS Award winning wines, ciders and apple juice Open throughout the year Free admission & tastings www.biddendenvineyards.com Tel: 01580 291726 Excursions page 36 - 37:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 1:49 PM Page 2 www.heritagerailways.com HOUSES & GARDENS VISITS & ACTIVITIES ENJOY A RIDE ON A STEAM TRAIN For a leaflet showing railways near your holiday destination write to: The Heritage Railway Association 10, Hurdeswell, Long Hanborough, Witney, Oxfordshire OX29 8DH Excursions Bourne Hall Hotel 14 Priory Road, West Cliff, Bournemouth, BH2 5DN Tel: 01202 299715 Fax: 01202 552669 [email protected] www.bournehall.co.uk Burhill Golf Club is set in beautiful Surrey parkland. The Clubhouse, a luxurious Georgian Mansion, is steeped in history and dates back to 1726. The Golf Club was established in 1907 by the Guinness family. Phone: 01932 227 345 [email protected] Burhill Golf Club, Burwood Road Walton on Thames, Surrey, KT12 4BX Burhill Golf Club is part of Burhill Golf and Leisure Limited. 37 page 38:LIL 13.qxd 2/25/2011 2:03 PM Page 1 The Royal Wedding better than the Olympics for UK tourism? irst, there were the congratulations, photo- sessions and Such claims tend to be greeted with scepticism by commentators somewhat obsequious mini-documentaries about “Wills & such as Robert Barney, Director of the International Centre for Olympic Kate” (or Catherine, as we now have to call her). That lasted Studies, University of Western Ontario: He has stated that “There has for about a day. The media then promptly switched its attention to never been an Olympic Games that has made a profit” and concluded how much the nation could make financially from next year’s that “If making money were an Olympic event, no city hosting the nuptials. In an era of budget deficits and public spending cuts, Games would win a gold medal. Or Silver. Or Bronze”. His compatriot pecuniary considerations (so it appears) have displaced romance. Andrew Rose, an economist at the University of California, Berkeley and The “Sun” newspaper triumphantly declared that the marriage co-author of a study on “The Olympic Effect”, concurs : “No reasonable celebrations “will give a £1 billion boost to the Britain’s hardperson thinks that the direct benefits of hosting the Olympic Games or pressed economy”. Income from tourism “will soar by £750 million any other mega event cover the expenses”. Meanwhile, the European as royal fans worldwide flock here Tour Operators Association (ETOA) is hoping for a glimpse of the happy equally unequivocal. In its recently couple”. Both the Sun and the “London published “Olympic Report”, it insists that Evening Standard” referred to the there is no strong link between hosting prediction by Neil Saunders of sporting tournaments and increased research consultants “Verdict” that tourism: “ The audiences regularly cited for sales of food and drink will exceed £360 such events as the Olympics are million and that souvenir exaggerated. Attendees at the Games merchandising could “rake in” another displace normal visitors and scare tourists £26 million. The Guardian reported that away for some time”. ETOA’s outspoken a range of commemorative crockery – Executive Chairman,Tom Jenkins, pursued such as Aynsley plates (£39.95p each) this theme at a World Travel Market (WTM) and “two-handled loving cups” (£32.95p seminar entitled “Sports Tourism: Its A each) - will be on sale by Christmas, Tough Game – But Some Win”, in and that the country’s retailers are “all London’s Excel Conference Centre on aflutter” at the commercial potential of November 8th. He warned his listeners the great event. According to the that tourism was not a good reason for “Glorious Britain” shop at Gatwick holding the Olympics and that host nations Airport, there has already been a rush invariably miscalculated how many people of passengers wanting to purchase would actually turn up. Beijing, for royal wedding souvenirs before example, had expècted 400,000 foreign boarding their flights. The UK press has guests in 2008 but received only 235,000 noted approvingly that Prince Charles for the whole month of August; In Sydney will probably fund most of the wedding (2000), the total was 97,000 instead of bill ( with assets from his Duchy of 132,000; Athens (2004) had hoped for Cornwall estate), though this won’t 105,000 people per night but got fewer include security costs (estimated at £40 than 14,000. The principal danger, million compared to £4 million for suggested Jenkins, was “between Charles & Diana in 1981). Kate’s parents perception and reality”. He also queried as “will offer to pay for the wedding dress to exactly where the supposed 380,000 Will this year’s Royal Wedding of Prince William or the honeymoon”. David Cottle, a Dow and Kate Middleton touch the heart’s of millions in the international visitors in 2012 (if they Jones Newswires columnist, has materialized) would be accommodated: same way as the wedding of Will’s mother, Diana depicted the occasion as a “big,much“Currently there are only 122,000 hotel Princess of Wales? needed money- spinner for a Britain in beds in and around London” – which of trouble”. course could now also prove to be a major issue if there is a massive The most significant aspect of the royal wedding, however, is likely to influx from abroad for the Royal Wedding. be the “huge numbers” that will be attracted to the capital – especially Prior to WTM, a brief survey of 200 leading tour operators was (says “The Sun”) from America ,Canada, China, Russia and India”. conducted by ETOA. This revealed that 68% of those questioned in Which is probably rather fortuitious in view of the disagreements which London expected an “Olympic slump,” with their turnover falling by have surfaced regarding the likely attendance at the 2012 Olympics. around 30%. In the case of regional England, 60% feared an average This had (until the engagement announcement) been portrayed as decline of 17% - supporting the ETOA view that “The problem s not London’s next available “tourist boom” opportunity. Lord Coe, Chairman restricted to the host city. If you remove London from a visit to the British of the Organising Committee foresees a possible one million additional Isles, everywhere else become far more difficult to sell”. In its “Olympic foreign visitors (up to 350,000 per day) coming to the UK for the Games. Report”, ETOA asserts controversially that during the Games, the venue An analysis prepared by the ‘Oxford Economics’ company for the effectively closes for business: “The absence of tourists consequently VisitBritain and Visit London organizations calculated that the Olympics breaks the normal conveyor belt of contented customers begetting new (“if there is good planning”) could generate tourism gains of £2.09 billion arrivals”. This contention has been dismissed as “ A weary old story” by for the period 2007-17, including £1.47 billion for London. A VisitBritain the Department of Culture, Media and Sport. Their riposte to ETOA is survey indicated that 22% of people worldwide said they would be more that “The 2012 Olympic and Paralympic Games are a long-term inclined to visit the UK because of the Olympics – but also that the investment in the future of Britain’s visitor economy” as well as percentage would be even higher for some countries: India (44%), China regenerating deprived areas of East London and providing the people (39%), Mexico (53%),Malaysia (43%) and Indonesia (49%). living there with “state-of-the art” sporting facilities once the Games are Furthermore, they forecast that tourist arrivals will increase thereafter over. All the same, it may not be totally unwelcome to the Olympics and the legacy effect – thanks to the media exposure and accompanying Organizing Committee that public and media interest is now for the publicity – could last for decades. moment firmly focused on 2011. COLIN GORDON. F 38 Excursions inside back:Layout 1 2/25/2011 2:14 PM Page 1 Magnet Books A Photographic Excursion Around Britain hree ultimate coffee table books about Britain. Each one containing over 160 pages and over 300 stunning photographs on art paper by world renowned photographer Steve Vidler and words by expert travel writers. Bound in a hard cover, size 12 x 10.5 inches. A superb gift for anyone captivated by the beauty and heritage of Britain. T Volumes have been written about Britain and its people and what defines the nation and its quintessential character and yet, until now no photographic books have covered all the essential destinations in what is, for its size, the most visited tourist destination on the planet. Steve Vidler’s skill with the camera, coupled with a work ethic that gets him unerringly to the right place at the right time, every time, has resulted in the three definitive books of photographs on iconic Britain. Portrait of England - £20.00 Portrait of London £20.00 Portrait of Great Britain £25.00 Exploring English Counties New Books by Michael Raven A Guide to Staffordshire and The Black Country This is a topographical reference book which tells the reader something of the history, geography and customs of the towns and villages in the County. Hardback, 28 x 18 cms, with 432 pages. Indexed with 64 full colour photographs Price £15.00 Two more beautifully produced books exploring yesteryear and illustrating the rich history of these two counties with a collection of historical documents and atmospheric black and white photography A Guide to Herefordshire (Englands best kept secret) A topographical reference Shropshire book in Pictures containing descriptions Pictures from the county in historic black and white lithographs and photographs Price £8.50 of towns and villages in the County as A Guide to Shropshire Inc Telford and the Welsh Borders well as Roman remains and mediaeval A hard back reference book detailing the history, geography, customs and curiosities of the towns and villages in the County. Size 30 x 21 cms, 264 pages with 209 black and white photographs and illustrations. Price £20.00 castles and monasteries, parsh churches and important houses and people. 21 x 30 cms with 217 pages and 185 photographs. Price £20.00 Cheshire in Pictures Pictures from the county in historic black and white lithographs and photographs Price £8.50 Send cheques or telephone to pay by card. 020-7424-0027 Available from Magnet Publishing Ltd, 28 Grafton Terrace, London NW5 4JJ Add £2 p&p for each title www.magnetbooks.co.uk page 40 outside back:Music Maker 89.qxd 2/25/2011 2:20 PM Page 1 FOCUS ON: MUSIC, ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, TRAVEL AND LEISURE ON SALE AT NEWSAGENTS NOW! FREE WEB ADS AND EVENT LISTINGS For more information telephone: 020 7424 0027 or log on to: www.magnetweb.co.uk