Opole Region
Transcription
Opole Region
Opole Region sightseeing tours 93 Opole Region The Opole Region is a basin of folk craftsmanship including hand-painted porcelain, intricately painted Easter eggs, and wicker baskets. It is also famous for delicious cuisine. Every tourist knows how Silesian dumplings taste and how tasty are roulade, red cabbage, round wheat cake with poppy seeds and cottage cheese (“kołocz”). It was also here that palaeontologists discovered the skeleton of the oldest dinosaur in the world. Opole Province (Voivodeship) is situated in the south-west part of the country, on the Silesian Lowland, in the upper basin of the Odra River. From the south-west, the lowland is surrounded by the Sudety Mountains. In the middle, the Chełmiński Hump (Silesian Upland) is elevated. Opole Province shares a border with the provinces of Wielkopolskie, Łódzkie and Dolnośląskie and on the south with the Czech Republic. The main transportation route is the A-4 highway, which is a part of Pan-European shipping corridor, BerlinKiev. The main water artery, the Odra River, flows parallel to the A-4 highway. In the future, the Odra is going to be an important element of international inland navigation (in Opole the segment is 111.6 km long). In the stronghold by the Odra River www.opole.pl A walk around Opole usually starts from the Old Town. Equipped with maps and folders from the nearby Tourist Information Centre (ul. Krakowska 15, tel. (077) 4511987, we are setting off. The nearest airports are in Wrocław and Katowice. In the future a regional airport in Kamień Śląski (Gogolin commune) is planned. In the Opole province three scenic parks have been designated (Saint Anne’s Mountain, Opawskie Mountains, Stobrawskie Forests), 34 nature reserves, and 6 protected landscape areas. There are over 20 thousand architectural monuments, almost 9 thousand living monuments, about 200 castles, palaces, manor houses, trails with unique wooden church architecture and medieval polychrome – these are the riches of the Opole Region. Rising high over the Old Town is the Renaissance town hall built after the Florentine Pallazzo Vecchio. The Opole cathedral has two towers. The real treasure of the church sanctuary is a Gothic painting of the Mother of God of Opole. There is a tombstone of prince Jan Dobry, a late Gothic triptych, a picture of the family tree of the Piasts, a mannerist pulpit and a late Gothic baptismal font with the emblem of the city. The Gothic Franciscan Church is a place where Polish princes are buried. The Piast Mausoleum is situated in St. Anne’s Chapel. There are tombstones of the princes of Opole, a polychrome from 14th century and an altar-triptych which shows St. Anne with the monastery’s benefactor Władysław I and Władysław III Opolczyk, St. Barbara and St. Hedwig of Silesia – the wife of Henry the Bearded. The Opole Region as a borderland has a tumultuous, rich history and multicultural heritage, which is rarely seen, in other regions. At various times it was ruled by the Piast Dynasty, Czech kings, Habsburgs from Austria, Prussians and Germans. Since 1945 Opole Silesia has belonged to Poland. In the underground crypt, we can see the Gothic polychrome with the Crucifixion group from the beginning of the 14th century – the oldest one that has survived in Upper Silesia. This is the resting place of princes and princesses: Elizabeth, a granddaughter of Władysław Łokietek and Władysław III Opolczyk. Mixed on national and ethnic levels, the people of Opole demonstrate cultural autonomy of this region on the map of Poland. Citizens call themselves Poles, Silesians, and Germans. The rich and neat Opole countryside is synonymous with the Opole Region. 95 We cross the Młynówka Canal. It seems to resemble Venice and it is a “substitute” at least for those who have never been to Venice. This is the most beautiful place in the city centre, especially at night when the canal is lit. The canal together with the weir and “Groszowy Bridge” were listed in the register of monuments as assets of the industrial heritage of the Opole Region. In the future, when the Młynówka is cleaned and the walking paths along the “Venice of Opole” to the river port on Bolko Island are reconstructed, traditional gondolas and boats will again be a part of this scenery. In the summer, you can go on a cruise along the canal. of Thirteen Rows” was created by Jerzy Grotowski. Villa Island Pasieka is the cradle of the city. “Groszowy Bridge” in secessionist style will lead you from the centre to the island. Piast Tower on Pasieka Island is the remnant of the Piast Castle. In this place, archaeologists discovered “Ostrówek” – the early medieval stronghold of Opolanie, which is partly displayed in the Museum of Opole Silesia. These places are the most recognizable symbols of Opole in the whole country. Opole is also the site of the National Theatre Confrontations “Polish Classics” and National Festival of Puppet Theatres. Jerzy Grotowski (1933-99) was a director, reformer, theatre anthropologist, and creator of modern theatre of the 20th century. The Laboratory Theatre of Grotowski belongs to the list of the most important institutions of 20th century art in the world. In College de France, the Theatre Anthropology Department has been created especially for Grotowski. The year 2009 (50th anniversary of creating the Laboratory Theatre) has been put on the list of anniversaries celebrated under the auspices of UNESCO. The new seat of the University of Opole is the pride of the city. It has a renovated gallery of baroque sculpture on the slope. Cast in bronze are the figures of Osiecka, Niemen and Grotowski. The cradle of European concrete The capital of Polish Song and theatre Historical and geographical character of the capital of the region is best shown in the fountain “Ceres of Opole” sculpture by Edmund Gomansky on Daszyński’s Square. The goddess of fertility and abundance (Demeter) is surrounded by mythological gods who symbolize the pillars of industry in Opole: agriculture (Proserpina), rafting and navigation (Neptun, Glaucus) as well as the rock and concrete industry (Hercules). Opole is most attractive for tourists at the end of May. Since 1963, for a week, the whole city becomes the capital of Polish Song. The characteristic Piast Tower and Opole Amphitheatre, designed by Florian Jesionowski, are known to all Poles thanks to TV broadcasts. A similar festival, older than this one in Opole, is only organized in San Remo. City councillors and the people of Opole dream about creating a Museum of Polish Song here. The Amphitheatre building is the seat of the City Culture Centre: www.mok.vel.pl Places near Opole are the cradle of the European concrete and limestone industry. These areas were perfect for building a cement plant because of the marl – limestone with a great admixture of loam minerals which is a good material to make Portland concrete. Particularly interesting musical events include: the International Percussion Festival and the International Festival “Jazz Rock Meeting”. In 1959, in a tenement number 4 situated in the Old Town, the worldwide famous “Theatre Local deposits of marl were used for building purposes from the Middle Ages, but not until the second half of the 19th century did they 98 is the only one in Poland where one can see the Western Lowland Gorillas and the California Sea Lions. became natural resources that influenced the economic development of Opole. The first plant that produced Portland concrete, known as “Portland Zementwerke”, was built near today’s Struga Street. Its owner was Friedrich Wilhelm Grundmann. By the year 1908, in Upper Silesia ten cement mills were built, nine of them in Opole and its surroundings. “The heiress” to the 150-year-old tradition of Opole concrete is “ODRA” – the oldest working concrete mill in Poland. Open-air Ethnographical Museum in Bierkowice Tourist product of Opole The train station remembers the times when smoke from the concrete mills floated over Opole and Portland concrete was sent to the four corners of the world. www.muzeumwsiopolskiej.pl The Opole Village Museum is not only a mustsee place on our tourist trail, but also a place to rest and have fun for people and guests from the nearby towns. The ethnographical park is spread on over 10 hectares of land. It leads a tourist back to the times of wooden cottages with a barn floor, smithies with bellows, apiaries, mills, and to the epoch of baking homemade bread and eating from earthenware pots. It constitutes a few dozen buildings where the “enchanted in wood” history of Silesian country is preserved – the one which does not exist anymore, but to which a modern man willingly comes back with nostalgia. That is why cyclic events that take place in this heritage park are very successful. The architectural design of the Opole train station with its unique acoustics, platforms built on arcs and roofing constructions with columns in Corinthian style amaze tourists who come here by train. A walk around Bolko Island www.zoo.opole.pl The south part of Bolko Island is occupied by the zoological gardens and the north part by the city park. There are natural deciduous forests and picturesque meadows which constitute the natural and cultural premises of the park. There are protected plants such as: lesser periwinkle, European Common twayblade (protected species of orchid) and bear’s garlic. We can also see trees and shrubs of foreign origin: maple ash, eastern white pine, honey locus, European black pine and sweet mock orange. A picturesque pond, which was created as a result of digging out sand to build levees on the Odra River, is a place of nesting for such water birds as mallard, Eurasian coot, penduline tit and common kingfisher. In the evening, Daubenton’s Bat flies over the water. The Eastern fair, the ecological picnic, the knight’s fest, the folk art fair, the apiarian fair, the exhibitions and museum classes attract the attention of thousands of residents from the region who value this evidence of Opole’s bygone past in harmony with nature. On the water www.turawa.pl Three barrier lakes in the Opole Region – Turawa Lake, Nysa Lake and Otmuchowskie Lake, are the most popular leisure centres in the region. The zoological gardens in Opole are the pride of the city. After the flood in 1997 they were renovated and now they keep over 1000 animals (about 130 species). The Opole zoo From these three lakes, Turawa is the closest to the capital of the region. It is the centre of sailing, water sports, and especially 99 motor-boating and windsurfing. Turawa is a paradise for anglers. from Niwki, Bernard Kocot and Edward Barcik from Chrząstowice. In 1933-38, in the lower course of the Mała Panew River, a 13-meter high dam and storage reservoir (with capacity of 108 mln m3) were built. Local gravel was used to build and strengthen it. Gravel heaps formed the Medium, Small and Silver Lakes. Its recreational, leisure and storage functions were determined during the building process. Numerous resorts situated around the banks welcome guests for conferences and courses and help in organizing family parties and occasional events. In the centre of Turawa, a baroque palace which in the past belonged to the von Garnier Family can be seen. Now it is the National Children’s Home. The areas around the lakes contain nesting places of various species of birds: the whiskered tern, the citrine wagtail, the common redshank, the common snipe, the little bittern, the northern shoveler and the garganey. The white-tailed eagle, which lives in the Stobrawsko-Turawskie Forests surrounding the lake, comes here for hunting. The reservoir is also a very important resting and feeding place for migratory birds. Because of this, it has been recognized as a water bird refuge of European class. Birds which visit Turawa are: the marsh sandpiper, the pomarine skua, the long-tailed skua, the terek sandpiper, the Eurasian oystercatcher, the red-necked phalarope, the white-winged tern, the black-legged kittiwake and the ruff. The area which is now a lake, 70 years ago was a lush forest. Currently, the remnants of the forest can be seen when the water level is low. Mysterious-looking, deformed trunks and roots of trees are then revealed. On the way from Turawa to Rzędowo, near the road, grows the oldest sessile oak in Poland, 25 meters high and 5.5 meters in diameter. In the Middle Ages areas near Turawa were the prince’s game preserves for the Opole Piasts. Also today Turawa is the centre of hunting in the Opole Region. Hunters may find here: roes, European deer, hares, martens, wild boars and foxes. The winding roads around Turawa and Chrząstowice are perfect places for cyclists from all over Poland. They are famous abroad because of Olympian cyclists such as Joachim Halupczok Dinopark www.dinopark.info.pl www.krasiejow.pl www.ozimek.pl About 225 million years ago, on the area of today’s Krasiejów, there were swampy lands surrounding great lakes. Most likely there was also an estuary of a big river. This area was covered by equiseta a few meters high, ferns and the first coniferous plants. In the strata of loam, researchers from PAN (Polska Akademia Nauk – Polish Science Academy) and UO (Uniwersytet Opolski - University of Opole) found the graveyard of amphibians and reptiles, including dinosaurs. Herbivorous dinosaurs and aetosaurs once lived there and were hunted by teratosaurus. Bushes around the lakes were inhabited by the largest animals of Krasiejów – the Cyclotosaurus intermedium which may be compared with today’s crocodiles. Palaeontologists also discovered the remains of metoposaurus, Paleorhinus arenaceus and aetosaurs. The remains of these bones could have been preserved in such a number because of the abundant concentration of alkaline mineral salts and the vast amounts of accumulating mud. The oldest dinosaur in the world Silesaurus opolensis – “Silesian reptile from Opole” is the oldest representative of the genealogical line of dinosaurs. Silesaurus from Krasiejów was over a meter high, had extended forelegs and a horny beak. It walked on the back parts of the three toes of its hind legs, similar to today’s birds. 100 In Krasiejów researchers also found a large collection of bones belonging to a reptile from the Triassic period - aetosaurs. This is the first discovery of such a kind in Poland and the third in the world. Each season of excavations in Krasiejów brings new discoveries of bones belonging to unknown species of animals. (nuphar lutea, nyphaea alba, calla). In the Mała Panew Valley, there are about 30 species of protected plants: royal fern, Salvinia natans, marsh club-moss, great sundew, common sundew, water caltrop, common bearberry, marsh gentian, Gladiolus imbricatus, and Epipactis palustris. In 2006 a paleontological pavilion, which is a part of the planned DINOPARK, was opened. It was the first investment of the Dinopark Society appointed by Ozimek, Kolonowskie Districts and Marshal Office of Opole Province in order to completely develop the paleontologic discoveries for scientific, educational and tourism needs. Here we can find many species of plants which are rare and endangered in the voivodeship and in the whole country: Ophioglossum vulgatum, Equisetum variegatum, Butomus, marsh andromeda, and Carex lasiocarpa. The Mała Panew, on which the Turawa reservoir was built a hundred years ago, is an unregulated and in many places impenetrable river. Picturesque meanders, gorges and the boisterous currents of “the Amazon of Opole Region” are rowers’ favourites. Every year in September the Canoe Club “Viking” from Gliwice organizes a canoe trip along the Mała Panew on a distance of 41 kilometres: Krupski MłynZawadzkie-Fosowskie. To register call: 0322318432. The paleontologic hall is a research-exhibition place. The building is supported on a slope of the strip mine, and under its glass floor we can admire the biggest collection of remains of Mesozoic reptiles and amphibians in Europe. The Polish Architects Society decided that the paleontologic hall in Krasiejów was the best architectonic object realized in Poland in 2006. The hall also won the contest of Cement Producers Society. Information about canoeing trips and canoe renting: www.kajnar.com.pl Almost on its whole length, the Mała Panew cuts into old postglacial and Triassic formations, creating gorges and chutes in a few places. On these segments of the Mała Panew, the river bed becomes narrower, the height of its edge rises and locally the river splits creating islands in the middle. A history of the excavation is also presented in the local museum of “Stara Szkoła” (“Old School”). Mała Panew Valley On the territory of Mała Panew Valley, 370 kilometres of bicycle paths were marked out and labelled. www.dmp.opolskie.info.pl Mała Panew Valley with its natural resources is the most beautiful and the most interesting river valley in the Opole Voivodeship. Rich in fauna and flora, it is a perfect area for the development of agritourism. It offers weekend tours for anglers, mushroom pickers, hikers and bikers. In the clean waters of Myślina and Brzyniczka, apart from carp, tench, bream and crucian, you can also see crayfish. Following the iron industry The most precious treasures of this area such as bog ore, wood and water were used in the times of Romans. The Mała Panew with its oxbows and bends, numerous tributaries, fishponds, brooks and drainage ditches constitutes a convenient habitat for water and rush plant communities On marshy and rich in ore lands, simple primitive smelting furnaces were formed. Ground ore was rinsed in wooden troughs. Then, together with charcoal, it was poured into holes 101 in the ground - metallurgical furnaces. The temperature was raised by bellows which insufflated air. Melted iron was pulled out and tooled with hammers. Pine forests, sand dunes, fens and wetground forests. When we are wandering along beautiful meanders, oxbows, avenues, water-heads, when we are delighted by the intact nature of the Mała Panew Valley, we recall with pride that it was here that the first metallurgical chimneys in Upper Silesia were smoking. The iron industry of the Mała Panew flourished in the 18th century. In 1752, count Norbert Colonna set up the first primitive smelting furnaces and ore smithy in Żędowice. Then, in 1780, Philipp Colona built a furnace heated with charcoal. What was left from the old furnaces and rolling mill is only a trough of the former metallurgical ditch, fragments of the foundations, bog ore and cinders. The furnaces of the Mała Panew in Żędowice, Kolonowskie and Fosowskie gave rise to the iron works, Zawadzkiwerk which was built in 1836 by an heir to the Collon’s fortune – count Andreas Renard. Born in Strzelce Opolskie, Renard was one of the greatest industrialists in Upper Silesia. A monument to Andreas Renard can be found at the cemetery in Strzelce Opolskie. The route of the annual hike organized by Polish Tourist Country-Lovers’ Society (PTTK) starts by the Andrew Iron Works (Huta Andrzej) and leads through old industrial zones, along metallurgical ditches. It ends at Regolowiec near Kolonowskie. Splinters of metallurgical cinders, pieces of bog ore, which can still be found on the banks of Brzyniczka, traces of the backing up of water and the monument tell us that there were iron works in Regolowiec. The Metallurgical industry of Mała Panew includes Ozimek. www.ozimek.pl 250 years ago, the “Royal Iron Works Małapanew” was built there. It was there, in 1789 that for the first time on the European continent coke was used instead of charcoal. An example of artistry in design is the oldest suspension bridge in Europe. It was built by metallurgists from Ozimek according to the engineer Shottelius’ design. An Evangelical church, built by one of the greatest Prussian architects - Karl Schinkel shows us that Ozimek was an important town on the map of Europe. At the cemetery by the church one may see sparsely preserved cast-iron gravestones from the 19th century cast in the “Małapanew” Iron Works. On the Cistercians’ trail The village Jemielnica belongs to the Strzelce district. It is situated within the limits of the international Cistercians’ trail and marked out by the Council of Europe. Post-Cistercian architecture has been preserved until now. The former Cistercians’ abbey in Jemielnica is comprised of a monastery, a church adjacent to it (with a crypt in the vault) which is a pearl of the Silesian baroque. It also has storehouses with gardens. Here the Cistercians set up fishponds and bred mainly carp which later was served during Christmas Eve Supper. Ponds in Jemielnica, Gąsiorowice, Centawa and in the forest near Łaziska have been preserved until now. The Cistercians popularised the threefield cultivation of soil, market gardening, fruit-farming and beekeeping. They grew hop and grapevines (because of this there are grapes in the coat of arms of Strzelce). They ran mills and iron smithies. Thanks to the Cistercians, Jemielnica’s plan reminds us of a small town with squares, streets and interesting alleys. One of the abbots in the monastery in Jemielnica was Johannes Nucius, born in Goerlitz. He was a famous Silesian composer of the baroque epoch who wrote 102 six-part motets dedicated to the abbot from Lubiąż - Mateusz Rudolf. He also wrote a musical treatise called “Musica poetica”. In Kielcza, not far from Zawadzkie, Wincenty was born, an abbot of the Dominican monastery in Racibórz, the author of the hymn 104 to of Lourdes (Grota Lurdzka) built in the beginning of the century from limestone to look like the one in Lourdes. There is also Calvary, located on picturesque hills with a group of 3 churches and 37 baroque chapels which form the stations of the Cross. It was made by an Italian architect Domenico Signo who settled in Opole. Calvary was founded by Melchior Ferdinand’s heir, George Adam de Gaschin who used the visual resemblance of the monastery’s surroundings to the hills of Jerusalem. Kalwaria Zebrzydowska was his model. “Gaude Mater Polonia” and the author of the first written sentence in the Polish language “Gorze nam się stało” (“Great misery came upon us”). (Informally it is said that the first sentence was written in the Book of Henryków “Dać, ać ja pobruczę, a ty poczywaj” which means “Let me, I shall grind, and you take a rest”). On the top of the holy mountain The visit of John Paul II on 21st June 1983 was a great event in the history of Saint Anne’s Mountain. The surroundings of St. Anne’s Mountain are called the “Silesian Switzerland”. It is because nature joined history and faith and gave that place the best offering: picturesque hills divided by valleys and clothed in beech forest, geological peculiarities, karstic springs, grottos, tuff volcanic cones, rare plants and charming cherry alleys. In 2004, St. Anne’s Mountain with its cultural and natural landscape was recognized as a historical monument. At the same time, attempts were made to register it as a World Heritage Site of UNESCO. www.swanna.pl No one knows, where this statue is from. This is a primitive linden sculpture, one of the oldest in Silesia, 66 centimetres high, coloured in green and red. In her left hand, Saint Anne holds her daughter, the Blessed Virgin Mary, in her right one, her grandson Jesus Christ. St. Anne’s Mountain, or in the language of local Germans - Sankt Annaberg, is a special place on the map of Opole Silesia. On the extinct volcano, known in Middle Ages as Saint George’s Mountain, there is a famous UpperSilesian sanctuary. The sanctuary, which is in the care of Franciscan monks, hides a real treasure. This is a priceless linden statue of Saint Anne Samotrzecia from the 15th century which contains relics of the saint. During the church fair in July, thousands of tourists have been coming here for 500 years to sing their patron: “Niech się ze mną co chce dzieje. W Tobie, św. Anno, mam nadzieję”. (“Let it be with me, what really must, in you Anna I have hope and trust”). Franciscan Ministry of the Young and Vocation operates in a Pilgrim House. Cycles of meetings and retreats, workshops addresses to the young are organized there. Basalt, karst and limestone amphitheater Five million years ago the earth of these areas was shaking. At the same time when the Alps were born, here layers of shell limestone and Cenomanian sandstone were cracking and basalt magma was emerging from the cracks and faults. The highest point of the Chełm Massif is the volcanic hill, St. Anne’s Mountain (400 m above sea level). Its core is a basalt pillar which once was a stream of magma. It came out of the volcanic crater which is probably situated nearby St. Anne’s basilica. The volcano was active twice. The holiness of this place is increased not only because of the cult of the Upper-Silesians’ patron, but also since there are very important sacral monuments. There are, for example, a basilica, a Franciscan monks’ monastery founded by count Melchior Ferdinand Gaszyna from Żyrowa, surrounded by cloisters Paradise Square (Rajski Plac). We can also find here the Grot- Near St. Anne’s Mountain, there are many inactive stone pits. In one of them, by the road 105 to Leśnica, there is the only geological reserve in Opole Silesia “St. Anne’s Mountain” (“Góra Św. Anny”). There is also a crater of an extinct volcano and visible uncovered sedimentary and effusion rocks as well as basalt pillars 30 centimetres thick. It was the hot lava which turned greenish sandstone into red. A tuff volcanic cone is a remnant of the eruption. The biggest jasper nodule in Poland (2 meters high) is the evidence of post-volcanic reactions of hot hydrothermal solution. In Triassic limestone, a small cave and a karstic crater filled with mud were formed. There are fossils of sponges, clams, brachiopods and sea lilies. Moreover, there is also a site of protected smooth carline and Common Rock-rose with its yellow flowers which are rare in Opole Silesia. In rocky places, a constrictor – smooth snake warms itself. Right under the precipice, we will see an amphitheatre sculpted in rock - the only one in Europe. It was built in the 1930’s in an inactive limestone pit and it imitates ancient patterns. Above it, there is a rotunda – a mausoleum for the German insurgents who died in battle around St. Anne’s Mountain during the Third Silesian Uprising. After the war in 1955, the rotunda was replaced by the monument of the Insurgent Deed (Czynu Powstańczego) designed by Xawery Dunikowski. Ligota Dolna: Nearby there is a pre-war airport, a limestone pit and an old limekiln with a bas-relief of Ikar. In these areas, there has been established a strict reserve of thermophilic plants such as cut-leaved germander, dwarf Alpine onion and white stonecrop. There have been recorded almost 600 species of butterflies, which is over half of all the species in Silesia. Also nearby has been discovered a very rare in Poland linum austriacum. Czarnocin is a picturesque place situated in the valley of the Łącka Woda stream, in one of the most beautiful areas of the St. Anne’s Mountain Scenic Park. Slopes of the valley are overgrown with beech forests. A great majority of these forests is protected as the nature reserves “Boże Oko” (God’s Eye) and “Grafik”. Saint Jack’s Sanctuary and Sebastianeum Silesiacum www.kamienslaski.pl www.silesiacum.pl One should start exploring Kamień Śląski by visiting a palace – the place of birth of Saint Jack from the Odrowąż family. In 1990 the Diocesan Curia in Opole bought this ruined palace with a park. Now it has been restored and serves the residents of the region as the Cultural and Science Centre of the Faculty of Theology at Opole University. The Chapel of Saint Jack, according to a legend, was a chamber where in 1183 Saint Jack was born. In the interior there is a rococo altar with statues of Saint Jack, Blessed Bronisława and Blessed Czesław. Pilgrims from all over the region come to the sanctuary, especially for the church fete in August. In the Middle Ages Saint Jack was called “The light from Silesia” because thanks to him Dominican monasteries in Cracow, Sandomierz, Kamień, Płock, Gdańsk and Wrocław were set up. He is the only Pole whose statue stands on the Roman colonnade surrounding Saint Peter's Square in the Vatican. By the palace, in the restored interiors of an old coach house, stables and a barn, there is Sebastianeum Silesiacum, Complex of Tourism, Recreation and Rehabilitation of “Caritas” Diocese of Opole. “In water there is health”, said Sebastian Kneipp, a Bavarian priest. The medical properties of Kneipp’s therapy are known to archbishop Alfons Nossol who has been treated in the Bavarian Bad Wörishoffen for 30 years now. It was he who decided to set up a similar resort in Kamień Śląski. This modern facility is the only one in Poland of its kind. The sanatorium specializes in hydrotherapy according to the tenets of the priest Sebastian Kneipp. It uses the natural resources of Oligocene water and its own herb cultivation. 108 Moszna „Silesian Disneyland” the richest industrialist in Upper Silesia owned a few dozen land properties. His oldest son Franz Hubert, district governor of Prudnik, became the heir to this amassed fortune. We owe him the current image of the palace and park in Moszna. Wilhelm II stayed there twice. A walk around this eclectic building is a brilliant lesson in architecture. Baroque, neo-Gothic and neo-Renaissance facades decorate numerous basreliefs showing Upper-Silesian work ethos, plants and hunting. www.moszna.pl www.moszna-zamek.pl www.strzeleczki.pl A picturesque and mysterious place. When there is windy and stormy weather, it may seem creepy like a medieval castle which is haunted. The main road of the park is a lane. On both sides of it there are canals from the 19th century, built in Dutch and French styles, as well as ponds once full of boats. In the park, you will be enchanted by rhododendrons, azaleas, Canada hemlock, 200-year-old lindens, 300-year-old pedunculate oaks and 120-year-old Eastern white pines. Built at the turn of 19th and 20th centuries, the mansion belonging to Franz von ThieleWinckler, the richest industrial potentate from Miechowice, invokes associations with the atmosphere from Disney’s fairytales. This castle of 65 thousand cubic meters has as many chambers as there are days in a year – 365. It also has 99 towers symbolizing the number of land properties of the richest Upper-Silesian of the bygone era. Since the 1970’s, the castle has been known in Poland as a place for treating neurosis and depression. It is a tradition that every year at the Moszna Castle, spring concerts of classical music called the “Musical Holiday of Blooming Azalea”, are organized. Franz Winkler was a miner from Tarnowskie Góry. He was the first to start building his family’s fortune. In 1833 he married Marry, who was a dozen or so years older than him. Thanks to the miner’s widow who had a mine in Miechowice, Franz took possession of seven Upper-Silesian steel works, eight manganese mines, a few dozen coal mines and six land properties. Seven years later, this enterprising miner’s potentate, due to his hard work and service to the country, received knighthood with the coat of arms from Frederick William IV, King of Prussia. The concerts which are organized on a terrace, serve as music therapy as well as an important cultural project in the region. However, they sound best in the acoustically perfect chapel. In 1948 in Moszna, a stud farm was established which breeds English Thoroughbreds and half-bred horses. Horses bred in Moszna win laurels in the world competitions in fence jumping. Valeska became the heiress of the great Wincklers’ fortune. Hubert Gustav von Thiele became another trustee of the Upper-Silesian properties who married Valeska in 1854. With the Odra current Famous for charity “Mutter Eva” was one of the seven children from the Thiele-Winckler marriage. Historians describe her as one of the most prominent women in 19th century Europe. www.kedzierzynkozle.pl www.krapkowice.pl www.jeziorosrebrne.pl In 1863, Hubert purchased Kujawy and in 1866 he obtained Moszna where there was a baroque hunting palace. In his twilight years, For centuries, the life of the residents living in surrounding villages has been determined by 109 the Odra current. People were also forced to get across the river. On the other bank there was an uncle to visit, a beloved to spend time with, a friend to drink with or work to do in a nearby coking plant. The ferry in Zdzieszowice has been getting people, animals and vehicles from one bank of the river to the other for over seven centuries. An attraction of this area is a seagoing ship from Florida. It takes tourists from Januszkowice to a historic sluice in Koźle. The Odra, seen from the cruise, gives tourists breathtaking views of natural attractions. Silver Lake in Januszkowice is a place of relaxation and recreation. House owners offer not only motorboats, motor scooters and water skis, but also powered hang gliders and parachutes. All ponds and gravel pits are a real paradise for anglers. In Kędzierzyn-Koźle one should see relics of the Prussian fortress and in Koźle there are also places worth seeing. In the opening of the Gliwicki Channel to the Odra River there is one of the most important ports of inland navigation in Poland – the monument of UpperSilesian hydraulic engineering. Keep: The Museum of Kozielska Land Society. You should visit the old keep with a private museum of the paper industry in Krapkowice. Nearby, there is Rogów Opolski and a castle which is in the care of the Provincial Public Library in Opole. Here there is a real storehouse of priceless parchment manuscripts, old prints, maps and graphics. Among them there are: “Kronika Śląska” (“The Silesian Chronicle”) by Jacob Schickfus (1625), “Mszał Wrocławski” (“Wrocławski Missal”) (1519) and a wood engraved map of Silesia from 1545 made by Sebastian Ümster. One may visit these treasures in Rogów every day, even during holidays from 9 a.m. to dusk. To read the old prints and to use a reading room in the castle, you should make arrangements in advance by calling: 077-4672108. Journey into ”Silesian Rome” www.nysa.pl Nysa is situated on the crossroads of historical trade paths from Silesia to the Czech Republic and from Cracov to Wrocław. For almost 500 years it was chosen by bishops of Wrocław for the capitol of Nysa Dutchy and apart from Wrocław was most wealthy town of Silesia. Among many highlights of a sightseeing tour there are Bishop’s Palace that was erected for over 100 years, north-Renaissance House of City Scale, nicely crafted baroque “Beautiful Well”, marble water-works of Tryton (designed as the replica of Fontana del Tritone by Gian Lorenzo Bernini) and of European class Collegium Carolinum that was built by Karol Habsburg. The first rector of Collegium Carolinum was Christoph Scheiner – a mathematician and astronomer who discovered sun–spots. Nysa is compared to Rome mostly because of not less than 12 churches situated within its area. Situated in the centre of the city there is a magnificent 15th century St. Jacob and Agnes church with nicely preserved lateGothic three-volet main altar. Apart from a regiment church in Wrocław, we have here not only the most valuable collection of grave sculpture but also 19 chapels incorporating elements of Renaissance or Gothic with wall-paintings of Antoni Scheffler. In 2007 in Cathedral of Nysa, there was conveyed a beatification of Maria Merkert – “Silesian Samaritan” a founder of the Elizabeth order. Inside the church, there is a sarcophagus of Maria Merkert and some relics. In the vicinity of the cathedral, there is situated a belfry whose construction was started as early as in 1474. Inside the belfry, we have a St. Jacob treasury with the unique collection of jewellery made by Nysa craftsmen. St. Peter and Paul church has been preserved almost to its original stand and is 112 not before 16th June of 1807 that capitulation treaty was signed. Nysa Fortress was conquered. often described as “a pearl of Silesian baroque”. Outstanding painting decoration by Feliks and Thomas Scheffler is of unique European class. Each year at the end of July – to commemorate those days, there are organized “Nysa Fortress Days” with a historical spectacle including soldiers from all over Europe. This spectacle is supposed to remind the atmosphere of the fight that took place 200 years ago. In Nysa Museum situated inside the 17th century Bishop’s Palace, there are presented 200 canvas of Flemish, Italian and German painters including the most impressive “Judith with the head of Holofernes” from Lucas Cranach The Older workshop. Beautiful porcelain, furniture and other products by local craftsmen complete this interesting exhibition. Anno Domini 1807 is a date of the battle, and at the same time a symbol commemorating the moment when Polish legionaries sang “Dąbrowski Mazurek” while approaching Nysa. Visiting Nysa you simply must have a closer look at those fortifications to feel their atmosphere, listen to the legends, find a rusty cannon-ball hidden in the darkness of the casemates. Fortress of Nysa Nysa – a city of 800-year tradition, is a genuine treasury for historians and a true paradise for adventure seekers. One of the biggest highlights for tourists is the fortifications surrounding the city. This is a very well preserved example of new-era defence installation on a low-land area. In Bishop’s and Humboldt Castle The fortifications are a mystery, a challenge, a partially buried area of undiscovered treasury that attract attention of all adventure seekers. www.otmuchow.pl In the early medieval times there were - according to archaeologist estimates - around 175 strongholds within Opole region. One of the most important ones was Otmuchów – a castellany of Wrocław bishops. In 1742, Nysa along with the whole Silesia came under the Prussian reign. Fryderyk Hohenzollern II made an advantage of the strategic situation of the city with its magnificent for tifications and transformed “Silesian Rome” into one of the mightiest fortresses in Europe. Building the stronghold was charged to general Cornelius von Wallrave. This castle hill was conquered by Tatars, Heryk Probus troops, Hussites and Swedes. Its defence character is nicely represented in the building style – we have a massive block with small windows and a solid turret. This Piast castellany was rebuilt in 15 th century by Bishop Roth who changed its look adding the elements of neo-Gothic and Renaissance styles. In the first half of 19th century it was the seat of a famous Haumboldt family. In the period of 1743-1758 a fortification called Prussia was built. It was based on the scheme of a five-arm star and reinforced by defence rings with bastions. In February 1807 the war between Prussia and France began. This clash caused the Napoleon-coalition army led by general Dominic Vandamme to approach Nysa fortifications area. The city siege lasted for 114 days. The defence operation was led by general Johann Phillip von Weger and it was Baron Wilhelm – a philosopher, reformer of Prussian educational system and cofounder of Berlin University, received the castle as a gift from King of Prussia Fryderik 113 Willhelm III. The other brother – Alexander – a naturalist and geographer, founded a beautiful park near the castle and was later named by Goethe “a conqueror of the world”. During many exploring journeys throughout not only Europe but also the Asian part of Russia, middle and south America, Alexander von Humboldt executed many anthropological and geographical researches. His main research-work called “Universe” is recognized as a most comprehensive book concerning nature matters that was released in those times. In 1800 starting from Caracas – a capitol of Venezuela, Humboldt launched his famous journey to the Orinoco which made it possible to discover water connections between the Orinoco and the Amazon. The big sightseeing attraction in the castle are the only horse-steps from 1638, 17th century ceilings, and many bricked up mysterious crossings. On the court-yard there is a well as deep as the height of the hill that still may be hiding some bishop’s treasures. In the castle there are also a hotel and a restaurant. In July Otmuchów becomes one of the most colourful and smelling cities in Opole region because of traditional “Summer of flowers” attracting not only best florists but also thousands of tourists from all over country. Situated right in the centre of the city there is a genuine masterpiece of baroque architecture – St. Nicolaus church. This two-tower basilica was built in 17th century by architects from Vienna that were influenced by the style of churches in Prague. Inside this impressively decorated church you may admire works of Carl Dankwar t and paintings of “Silesian Rembrandt” – Michael Willman. The most important work – “St. Nicolaus protecting castaways” is exposed in the main altar. During the reign of bishop Jacob Salezy in Otmuchów there was built a Renaissance town hall. It has nice sgraffito decoration and 16th century sun clock usually known as Paracelsus clock to commemorate famous Swiss doctor who allegedly saved the city from pestilence. Riviera of Nysa and Silesian Sea Riviera of Nysa – that is a name of a quite close situated lake – a place of family rest and recreation. For ones a site of social turmoil, for others a peaceful and romantic enclave. Nysa lake situated within a preserved area of Otmuchów – Nysa district of nature is ready to welcome fans of sailing and fishing. Clean water is a home for trout, lake-trout and loaches. The most comfortable place to stay for a few days, to rest, or try some specialties of traditional cuisine is Nysa Recreational Centre. It is highly recommended to visit the area by bike. In Otmuchów we find an “impressive” menu of traditional meals not only in the centre of the city but also in the castle restaurant. When we are already admiring the beauty of “Silesian Sea”, it is worth to visit Ściborz. It is there in old fishermen boat moored by Otmuchów lake shore that we can try this perfectly prepared fish that would complete our all-day journey. Otmuchów lake is the first big-area storage reservoir in the region. It was built in 1932 and is of 1976 hectares area. In more muddy parts of the lake we have very rare plants and many of them have been added to the “Red book of plants existing in Opole region”. In the park situated in the vicinity of the lake there is a colony of herons with over 250 heronries. The lake is a very important place for many species of birds to survive the winter. When lucky enough, you can see here golden plovers, tattlers and skuas. Wall-paintings, marbles and Koperniki Village of Siestrzechowice near Nysa: Building a palace here is strictly connected with the reign of bishop Andreas von 114 Koperniki – a Copernicus line comes from here. Explorers from Poland, Germany and the Czech Republic are convinced of Silesian origin of the famous astronomer. His ancestors came from Koperniki – a village whose inhabitants mostly earned a living by crafting cuprum. Jerin who administered Nysa Dutchy for some time. Bishop Jerin bought some grounds for his nephew in 1592. A residency was planned on the basis of a big rectangle with typical Renaissance courtyard surrounded with galleries. The main entry was decorated with the Jerin’s crest: griffons as a symbol of might and connection of human and God’s features. In the beginning of 20th century during a renovation of the castle’s chapel, there were discovered some unique wallpaintings with the crests of Nysa Dutchy clerks. On eleven fields situated on the ceiling there were 65 crests and 14 more were found on the south wall. All of them had full description of the name and function of the clerk. In Łambinowice there is a Museum of Martyrdom and Prisoners of War Battle – a true testimony of gloomy war history that left its aftermath also here in Opole Silesia. Carcasonne walls www.paczkow.pl Those wall-paintings come from times of judge Andreas von Jerin administration. They were painted between 1594 (1596) and the beginning of 17th century. Here you can find crests of almost all outstanding nobleman’s houses from Upper and Lower Silesia. Paczków is often named a Silesian Carcasonne which can be explained in a pretty reasonable way when you admire this medieval ring of walls with 19 towers and four magnificent tower-gates. It is wor th mentioning that apar t from Paczków there is no other place in Poland with so impressively preserved wall construction. Ages ago, there were four wells: two in the middle of the area and two outside of it. Water from Grunau was of high healthy quality. The palace is nowadays a private property and this “healthy” water waits for better times. When you walk around, you can admire almost complete construction of defence walls with numerous small towers that were built in 1350. This strip of brick reinforcements is 1200m long and of 9m height. Not far away from Sławniowice – a small town situated in Nysa area, there is a marble ledge – one of the biggest in Poland and also very precious in Europe. Exploitation of marbles here is of 700-year tradition. In 1314 this marble was used while crafting a tombstone for Prince Hermann and you can still admire it in Kępnica near Nysa. The next sightseeing highlights are a town hall with its 45 metres Renaissance tower and a Gothic church of St. John Evangelist that was built not only as a sacrum place but also as a defence building before Turkish invasion. In 16th and 17th centuries, there was developed a substantial masonry centre in Sławniowice area. At present 10 colour types of marble are mined in the place. The Gas Industry Museum in Paczków is the only one in Poland and offers a European class collection of gas-meters and all other gas equipment. Marble from Sławniowice was used for decoration of Seym building, Minister Council Office, Castle in Copenhagen or General Wladysław Sikorski’s tombstone in Cracow’s Wawel. All sinners living in Paczków area are reminded of good behaviour by old wayside crosses – the witnesses of ruthless medieval law that were situated by the roads to discipline the next generations. 115 In Niemodlin Dutchy www.niemodlin.pl 13th century. On the trade path from Silesia to Prague, between swamps and the Ścinawa river, hidden in the woods there is a trade colony – Niemodlin. In historical documents from 1249 there is a name Yalkenbrech, but from 1283 Niemodlin is a town located on German law regulations and its name is Falkenberg (until 1945). 14th century – a castle in Falkenberg is a seat of Opole Dutchy emperor – Bolko I. Bolko II built in the city a Gothic defence castle with a moat. In 15th century, there were rules of Bernhard – the youngest son of Bolko III. He was a Prince of Niemodlin, Opole and Strzelce. The end of independent Niemodlin Dutchy came in 1460 when it became a part of Opole Dutchy. The Gothic castle was burnt out as was the city in 1552. 16th century marks Czech reign: Hohenzollern and Habsburg line. The destroyed castle came under administration of earl von Logau. From 1572 it was taken on lease by Kaspar von Puckler who eventually (after 9 years) bought it with the whole city area from Emperor Rudolf II. In the period of 1581-1591, the destroyed Piast’s castle was renovated. Around 1610 – the fourth wing with the chapel and choir place were built. This neo-Renaissance building with its magnificent bastions that we can admire to this day is indebted to Promnitz family. In January of 1779 all goods of Niemodlin became the property of the Moravian Praschma family. During 18th century, a baroque rebuilding of the castle was carried out by earl Jan II Nepomuk. The last administrator of Niemodlin (until 1945) was earl Fryderik Leopold von Praschma. Lipno: A magnificent park with unique examples of trees and plants from China, Japan, Caucasus, Southern Europe and Northern America is a remnant of the English park from late 18th century that was founded by earl Jan Nepomucen Carl Praschma. In 1782 there were planted first junipers and magnolias later relocated to the other European gardens. The most impressive plants of the garden are azaleas, pinster flowers, camellias, rhododendrons and tulip trees. A nicely marked educational walking path makes its way through rare examples of yews, cypresses, liquidambars. In the park area there are also ponds called “Zofia”, “Hubertus” and “Crane’s swamp”. Idyllic way, Italian way www.fraczkow.pl In 18th century a valuable area and many properties were in hands of the Czech Gilgengeimb family line who decided to build a baroque palace in Frączków. In 1863 the village was bought by earl Alexander von Francken-Sierstorpff – a founder of the English park admired to these days. At the end of 19th century, a building was substantially enriched with neoGothic elements by his son Alexander. A politician and traveller being inspired by Berlin school of architecture, he built in Frączków a picturesque residency of European class. This rectangle, neo-baroque building was modernized and numerous towers, terraces, balustrades and a splendid French garden were added. In the period of 1930-1939 the palace in Frączków was thoroughly rebuilt after the fire that had destroyed earlier its majesty. Nowadays it no longer reminds of its original shape. After the main rebuilding and modernization between 1970-1980 that was carried out owing to national funds, the palace in Frączków regained its previous charm. Inside the building there are nicely preserved Corinthian columns, a mosaic floor, plafons, coffered ceilings, tile fire-places and a magnificent ballroom. Apart from an old coach-house, we also find in the near surroundings a splendid 118 19th century English garden with numerous channels, pond and walking paths. At Oppersdorff’s A hotel and restaurant are inside the palace. We can taste here a range of delicious meals from a traditional Italian menu. Sea fish is delivered from Italy and owners of the palace grow fruit and vegetables, make butter and cheese, live in an old traditional rural way. Specialties are: traditional house wine, limoncello, nut liqueur prepared by the house-master – Giuseppe. www.glogowek.pl Art Cup – horse riding with the stars www.kjlewada.pl Famous people in the world of film, sport and business like these places: old palaces, beautiful parks, atmosphere of slight degeneration, such a mixture generates great ideas. Taking into account all palaces of Opole region that found responsible new owners in the recent years, there must be mentioned a palace in Zakrzów near Kędzierzyn Koźle. A brilliant idea of how to regain its past magnificence had Andrzej Sałacki – 12 times a medallist of Poland Championship and a national horse-riding instructor. A world-class trainer, one of the best TV presenters – Katarzyna Dowbor, friendly local autonomy and unique place. People’s Horse-Riding Club “Lewada” wins the national classification and reaches a status of Olympic Horse-Riding Centre. Each August in Zakrzów an “Art Cup” – Championship of Stars in Horse-Riding is held. Similarly to the palace in Zakrzów, also Polska Cerekiew became few years ago a genuine attraction for famous people of music, sport, film and television. Ruins of once magnificent architecture masterpiece are a perfect place to organize concerts or theatre performances. Theatre events are directed by Adam Hanuszkiewicz, musical performances include concerts of a world-class violinist Konstanty Andrzej Kulka and Agnieszka Duczmal. Głogówek. This town located on Magdeburg law regulations was administrated by princes of Opole and Niemodlin, the Habsburg family members and the Queen of Hungary. The city splendour came in 16th century under the reign of the Oppersdorff line. It was within those Renaissance castle’s walls that during the Swedish flood we had here a capitol of Poland for a few weeks. In 1655, the Oppersdorff’s residency was a shelter for King Jan Kazimierz and his family. In rooms of that castle Ludwig van Beethoven composed some of his music and dedicated 4th symphony B-Dur to the host of the castle – Franciszek Joachim Oppersdorf. Nowadays the castle, being a private property, is renovated. In St. Bartłomiej’s church we can admire a magnificent alabaster tombstone of Jan Jerzy Oppersdorf from 1634 that was crafted by an Italian artist Sebastian Sala. This sanctuary is a genuine treasure of Silesian baroque style. It is recommended to visit Głogówek in autumn when Silesian Festival of Beethoven is organized. House of Our Lady Of Loretto was founded by earl Jerzy III Oppersdorff who visited Loretto twice and reconstructed its original shape on the basis of self-made sketches. The house was built as a separate chapel and situated in the vicinity of the Franciscan church. In 1636 earl von Oppersdorf enlarged the sanctuary and House of Our Lady Of Loretto was surrounded by a bigger chapel adjacent to the nave from the north side. The present look of the house is a work of Sebastini from around 1780. Jan Cybis – an outstanding Polish colourist, professor of ASP (Academy of Fine Arts) in Warsaw, born in 1897 in Wróblin near Głogówek. The biggest collection of his works is exposed in Opole Silesia Museum. A highly acclaimed publicist Rafał Urban was also born in Głogówek. 119 King’s Academy and recollections of faience www.proszkow.pl A factory of faience (so called fake porcelain) in Prószków was founded by earl Leopold von Proskau in 1763 and was inspired by the Prussian King Fryderyk The Great. The years of best prosperity came for the factory after 1771 when a strict ban to import porcelain out of Silesia was implemented. The faience production was stopped in 1853 when there was more and more real porcelain on the market. Roses, pinks and peacocks stand for Prószków faience style. It is recommended to stay in Prószków in order to visit a local Arboretum (1866-67). Nowadays this beautiful park covers the area of 19 hectares and we can admire here, among others, trees from China, Japan, Manguria and different parts of Europe. We have here around 46 species of oak, grey nut tree, magnolias, plane trees and beeches. The biggest attraction is however a fossil – a tree of 2mln years of age. The park is a remembrance of King’s Agriculture Academy that was founded in 1847 by the government of Prussia. It was the first academy of that sort in Europe. It was liquidated in 1881 and replaced by the King’s Institute of Pomology educating gardeners and fruit-growers. It is worth one’s while to visit a local park-museum and see all those old garden books or admire an impressive collection of geological remnants. There are spreading around Prószków many protected forest areas like “Jaśkowice”, “Deer’s court” and “Przysiecz” where we also have a picturesque pond. Nowa Kuźnia: it is here that we have one of the most beautiful protected water areas in Poland called “Pond of Nowa Kuźnia”. It was founded in 1957 in order to protect some of the water plants like white water-lily, aldrovanda, floating moss or yellow nuphar. There are confirmed around 135 species of water birds in the pond’s area. Palace on the water Opole region is a genuine area of castles and palaces. In this smallest district of Poland there are around 200 of those magnificent relics of old baroque and Renaissance architecture. Not all of them have been preserved to these days, many objects were destroyed by time passing or ended their history after fierce wars. The most romantic and richly decorated remnants of once magnificent palace are situated in Kopice near Grodków. The residency in Kopice used to be called a “palace on the water” because of many ponds surrounding the village. In the area there was also situated one of the biggest parks of 19th century in Europe – a masterpiece of King’s garden administrator – Wihelm Hempel who left Sanssousi for Kopice. There were some 1342 sculptures in the park, many of them of natural human or animal size, made by Carl Kern. The rest of the Kopice park highlights were an orangery, a winter garden, a palm house, and a rose-garden that attracted not only students but also masters of gardening from all over Europe. Flowers planted in the glass-houses in Chróścina were sent from an airport in Old Grodków to the King’s tables in Berlin. One of the most outstanding masters of European art of building – Carl Ludecke, made Kopice palace a unique masterpiece of architecture. Neo-Gothic and classicism style were enriched by French and Netherlandish Renaissance and finally completed by elements of the English Tudor style. “Silesian Cinderella” – Johanna Gryczik von SchombergGodulla and her husband Hans Ulrich von Schaffgotsch were living in the palace and for years took care of its condition. Nowadays the palace and its park are a private property. For some scary and gloomy ruins of magnificent architecture monument, for others romantic and breath-taking symbol of the past. Kopice is something of a “fashion”, a place you must see and feel its unique atmosphere. 120 For years these ruins have attracted into Grodków area hundreds of tourists, photographers and film-makers. cialties and famous Czech beer. It is recommended to visit a local museum of goldsmithing and nicely restored Mariahilf sanctuary. Bishop’s Hill Lipove Laznie: a place where Vincenz Priessnitz as the first in the world started to cure diseases using water (so is the name of shower – in Polish: prysznic). There are the Opawskie Mountains spreading south of Opole region with their highest peak called Bishop’s Hill (890m above sea level) from which you can grasp a phenomenal panorama of Polish and Czech side of the border. This is the most precious part of the region. One is able to find here numerous bike and walking tracks, nicely equipped hotels, ski-lifts, swimming pools, trout fishery, modern conference centres and rehabilitation sites. Bishop’s Hill is a highest peak of the Opawskie Mountains and is located in the central par t of the Landscape Park “Opawskie Mountains”. The massif of Bishop’s Hill is based upon sedimentary rocks of Devonian era when the sea made its way to the area. Mostly common rocks are phyllite slate ready for covering the roofs. After excavation, there were left many picturesque drifts i.e. Gwarkowa Perć, Sea eye, Hell. In Gwarkowa Perć we find a 35-meter long old metal ladder on one of the walls. On the mountain-sides of Bihsop’s Hill we have mostly natural beech forests and human-planted spruce forests spreading especially in the upper areas of the hill. When wandering onto the top, we encounter many protected species of plants and animals (orchid, plant of the orchid family, nematocyst, phantom orchids). On the top of Bishop’s Hill you may see one of the most endangered species in the area – buttercup of plane tree-leaves. Comfortable accommodation: Mountain House of Tourists tel. 077 4397583 www.kopabiskupia.republika.pl From the top of Bishop’s Hill we have pretty short and very nice down-walking to Zlate Hory (Golden Mountains) in the Czech Republic with delicious traditional cuisine spe- Ski fans will be welcome to Bohemaland – a modern ski centre situated in the vicinity or in the surrounding mountain villages: Ramzova, Cervonohorske Sedlo and Praded. During winter school-break there are regular rail connections Nysa – Ramzova. www.bohemaland.cz Golden Mountains The first documented data concerning excavating gold in the Opawskie Mountains comes from 13th century when bishops of Wrocław brought into the region some miners from Frankony and Turyngia – regions already famous for gold-excavation. It is most likely that it was them who after close exploration of streams: Biala Głuchołaska, Golden stream and Roe-deer stream, discovered gold in the area. The biggest concentration of goldmines was situated in Zlate Hory district on the Czech side of the border. In 1590 and 1591 there were found two quartzite with gold bits of 1.388kg and 1.783kg weight. They were handed as a gift to emperor Rudolf the II and precise sketches of them you can find in the Zlate Hory museum. For over 250 years of excavation there were mined around 2,800kg of gold in the region. Nowadays it is worth one’s while to set out for a 3-hour walk along “Golden mines” track that starts in Gluchołazy by Amorek water-works . One is able to encounter many relics of goldexcavation these days: around 80 shafts, many gold-excavation areas, adits. There are some places where gold-excavation areas are of their original shape in particular those uncovered by the big flood in 1997. You can find 1mm thick gold bites here. 121 There are plans to set up some international educational tourist track along the oldest 15th century “Three Kings” adit whose building was ordered by emperor Rudolf II, bishop Baltazar Promnitz and prince George II. In those old drifts we find rare species of endangered bats or a genuine rarity in this part of the region – the nighty Natterer bat. One of the most valuable relics of hydro-technical buildings in Opole Silesia is a 15-metres dam built on the Roe-deer stream. Excursion for health www.glucholazy.pl Healthy features of Głuchołazy area along with low-mineralised water sources around Park Hill were discovered by Jesuits who were brought into the region in 1623 by the prince of Austria and Wrocław bishop Carl. Characteristic micro-climate value of the region comes from the efficient protection from strong winds, nicely balanced temperature, lack of sudden pressure or humidity changes and, most of all, the air smelling of ethereal and resinous oils. In 1877 Carl Juppe founded in Głuchołazy the first hydrotherapeutic centre called “Juppenbad”. In many sanatoriums and watercuring houses the most popular method was the one developed by priest Sebastian Kneipp. The flow of new patients was especially visible after 1875 when MoravianSilesian railway connecting Gluchołazy with Nysa, Opava and Vienna was built. It was quite common to offer herbal baths in decoction of oat straw, sand baths or baths on heated stones. Some new cure in hydrotherapeutic sanatoriums were baths in decoction of pine litter of conifer needles or wood–pulp baths. In the historical building of Health Resort there is nowadays a “Caritas” sanatorium. www.caritas.glucholazy.pl Jarnołtówek – a picturesque city situated at the foot of Bishop’s Hill guarantees each year more and more versatile tourist offer in terms of rehabilitation and recreation. The biggest tourist hotels are “Potok”, “Ziemowit” and “Max”. In Jarnołtówek, Moszczanka and Pokrzywna we find not only trout fisheries but also many frizzle pubs where we can taste local menu full of trout served in different ways. The tourist offer is completed by horse riding (Łąka Prudnicka) and many hotels or small family inns with traditional cuisine. www.jarnoltowek.pl We recommend: “Pod Kopą” restaurant in Jarnołtówek centre with tasty Italian specialties including traditional ham “a la Parma” or delicious tomato paste. In Pokrzywna there are remains of a ski-jump built in 1931 by one Norwegian living then in Prudnik. In 1947 we had ski-jumping contests still organized on this object. Prudnik: Euroregion “Pradziad” seat www.europradziad.pl In the monastery in Prudnik, cardinal Stefan Wyszyński was interned and nowadays you can still visit originally preserved cell he was kept in. In the vicinity of a cloister there is a most beautiful human grotto in Opole region made of tuff transported to the place almost 100 years ago from the Rhine river area. Silesian Wawel www.brzeg.pl We have already been to Silesian Carcasonne, we admired Silesian Rome, now we are ready to visit Silesian Wawel. That name is often referred to Brzeg – the fourth city in Opole region, once a capitol of Brzeg-Legnica Dutchy situated along the “High Track” – the most important trade track in medieval Europe. A castle of Silesian Piasts – an intellectual and cultural centre especially active 122 during the reign of prince George II. Nicely preserved and impressively sculptured facade of the main building is one of the most valuable relics of mid–European Renaissance. On the main entry there is a sculpture of Prince George and his wife Barbara Brandenburska and above we can see some por trait-genealogy gallery with 24 busts of Polish kings and Silesian princes of the Piast dynasty. A characteristic courtyard with fully reconstructed threelevel bastions is often named “Silesian Wawel”. (The castle in Brzeg was built by Italian architects. One of them – Jakub Paar was also a builder of King’s Castle in Warsaw). There is a Museum of Silesian Piasts in the castle where we can admire the oldest Piast documents, coins, outstanding collection of Silesian sculpture, painting exhibition including works of baroque master Michael Willman or see the tombstones of Brzeg-Legnica Dutchy princes. It is worth one’s while to spend some time in a solicitously cultivated Renaissance garden. The cultural highlights organized in the castle are first and foremost: “Poets invasion on Silesian Piast’s Castle” and a range of interesting concerts during International Festival “Wratislavia Cantans”. On the track of Gothic polychrome In 1997 there was traced in Brzeg area one of the most interesting tourist tracks in Opole Silesia – Track of Brzeg Medieval Polychrome. In 18 of local churches there are unique Gothic paintings created by unknown master and his imitators. This educational tourist path begins in St. Nicolaus sanctuary in Brzeg, then leads you through Małujowice (a place of a famous historical battle between Austria and Prussia in 1741 that forejudged the fate of Silesia – from then on for 200 years Silesia was under administration of Prussia), then Łukowice Brzeskie, Przylesie, Krzyżowice, Pogorzela, Łosiów, Strzelniki, Kruszyna. (Because of safety reasons all churches along the track are closed.) (Medieval polychrome is a patron painting on ceilings; multi-colour gothic painting made on fresh, wet plaster – Italian word: al. fresco – bewitches with its age and impressive artistry.) In St. Jadwiga’s chapel there is a mausoleum of Legnica-Brzeg Piast dynasty. In the vicinity of the castle there is a baroque church of Holy Cross Elevation with illusionistic polychrome of a Jesuit – Jan Kuben. Małujowice: St. Jacob’s Sanctuary is recognized as one of the most outstanding relics of Gothic ar t in Silesia. Having unique and very richly decorated polychrome featuring biblical scenes (complete illustration of Pauperum Bible), the church in Małujowice is often called a “Silesian Sistine”. We can also find here a breathtaking ceiling paintings and a magnificent 14th century portal. The whole Dutchy was administered right from the castle and the city government was carried out from the Tower Hall level. It is worth one’s while to spend some time inside the Renaissance Tower Hall to visit its unique rococo decoration of a “councillor room”. On the old road between Wrocław and Brzeg in Brzeziny village, there is placed a huge stone sculpture featuring a Silesian Eagle. It was situated here to commemorate building the road in 1584. This oldest road stone in Poland was founded by the Piast Prince George II. Kurt Masur - a world-class conductor, director of Gewandehaus Orchestra in Leipzig and director of Philharmonic in New York, was born in Brzeg in 1927. 123 Closer to the nature Of particular meaning is the biggest landscape park in the area: Stobrawa Landscape Park. It covers not only big forest areas but also meadows and water eco-systems that were left of the Stobrawa-Turawa forest complex. At the end of a glacial epoch, strong winds blew out sand from the upper river terraces and over the years formed some sand drifts. 13 thousand years ago in the north and east parts of the region there were formed 25-metre high sand hills making the biggest sand-drift area in Silesia. Middle-land sand drifts covered with pine forests, complex of ponds and nicely preserved old river-beds make this particular part of the region a true sightseeing priority. 11 plants still present in Stobrawa Landscape Park are included in the so-called “red list” of endangered species. Here we have some 48 plant species protected by law, around 130 socalled rare species and about 170 species of land and water birds. It is recommended to admire picturesque water valleys of Stobrawa, Smortawa, Budkowiczanka, Brynica and Odra using walking paths or bike tracks. Park seat: Ładza 077 4693550 www.stobrawa-rybna.eko.org.pl www.zopk.pl The Smortawa is one of first rivers whose tourist values were commonly used already in 19th/20th century during a canoeing rally. In once Smortawe (at present Leśna Woda “Forest water”), there was built some coastal restaurant for canoe fans. The menu board was close to the river bank in order to enable placing orders straight from the canoes. Stobrawa Landscape Park is of 50 thousand hectares area and its natural values may be seen in 12 communes of the north part of Opole region. For a few centuries already there has been developed a comprehensive fishculture including carp, eel, trout, pike and pikeperch. Many ponds full of fish situated far from the roads and people’s settlements are a perfect home for rare birds like osprey, cormorant, white eagle or heron. Marsh, sand drifts, many forest areas intact by man – all this stands for a unique character of the region. Some of the trees are the remnants of once Silesian Wilderness belonging to the Piast princes of Brzeg. Mysterious Pokój www.gminapokoj.pl Pokój village is situated in the central part of Stobrawa Landscape Park on the OpoleNamysłów road. There was once cultural life flourishing with its famous health resort Bad Carlsruhe. Nowadays it is even more widespread opinion that this “healthcare tradition” must be cultivated anew in the area. There are many pine woods surrounding the village and their bio-therapeutic features are commonly known. They act soothing, antiseptic and antiasthmatic. When we drive through Pokój, it is hard to imagine that right in the centre of a huge roundabout there was once a magnificent palace of Wirtemberg-Oleśnica princes. It is the only one in Poland and the second in terms of size starroundabout in Europe. Earlier magnificence of Pokój is easily seen in a nicely preserved baroque French garden and in an English park of Winna Góra (Wine Hill) placed in the vicinity. In this French garden there is a partially preserved water saloon (after a building catastrophe we only have rococo ruins). Of huge historical value is also a cast-iron mould of a lion crafted for Prince Eugen – a winner of the battle under Kulm. This mould was crafted by a sculptor from Gliwice – Theodor Kalide. In the French garden there is also the oldest and most imposing Weymouth pine in Poland. The first cutlings of that tree were brought to Europe from North America in 17th century by an English captain George Weymouth. One of them was planted then in Pokój. In Winna Góra (Wine Hill) there is preserved a splendid English park with romantic ponds, canals, mysterious buildings and sculptures. Winne Wzgórza (Wine Hills) that were the source of the name for the village, were six hills piled up around the pond of Helena. In 1780 there was founded a winery with over 20 thousand shrubs. 126 Piast Castle and Dzierżon’s hives In 1350 there was erected in Karłowice a magnificent Gothic castle of the Tschammer family. From 1493, all properties in Karłowice were administered by Adam Beess – a lieutenant of Brzeg Dutchy. A tombstone of Adam Beess and his wife Barbara is preserved in St. Peter and Paul’s church in Lewin Brzeski. Later, all properties in Karłowice area were bought by the prince of Brzeg – George II (around 1565) and from that time the castle has been known as the hunter’s castle of Brzeg Piasts. The last of Piasts – George IV Wilhelm passed away right after Hubertus-hunting of Karłowice in 1675 and from that time the village became the King’s domain. In 1715 a baroque chapel was built up the castle’s defence wall. In this chapel, priest Jan Dzierżon – the most famous bee-keeper in the world said masses. Priest Dzierżon came to the parish in Karlsmarkt in 1835. In Karłowice this “Copernicus of beehive” made the most outstanding discoveries in apiculture. He “moved the hive” by inventing a skewer to which a honeycomb was stuck. He not only constructed a famous and later popular all over the world bee-hive of “twin” type, but also set up an apiary by vicariate and 12 more in the neighbourhood villages. It was in Karłowice that he revealed his theory about bee parthenogenesis. In 19th century right to the door of his house came stage-coaches bringing letters from all over the world with congratulations on his outstanding contribution to the apiculture. It was from Karłowice that Dzierżon sent his bees out to different parts of the world. Earlier he brought them from Venice. Priest Jan Dzierżon’s house: Polish and German information board on the facade of the building (it says: private house, inaccessible for visitors, no remembrances of Dzierżon). Country of honey smell Kluczbork district is the best organized and tourist-friendly area in the whole Opole region. Here we find many small agricultural settlements ready to welcome tourists, all perfectly connected with the bike tracks. All information about lodging conditions and sightseeing attractions you can find here: www.kolot.republika.pl Ecology and environmental protection widely promoted in the villages of Kluczbork area had its devoted patron: priest Jan Dzierżon. “Copernicus of bee-hive” was born in Łowkowice village. His grave is on a small cemetery near the church. Maciejów – pedigree apiary and villa where he lived until his death. In Kluczbork there is a Museum of Dzierżon. Kuniów village is situated on the road from Opole to Kluczbork . Here we can admire nicely reconstructed old bakery, smithy, regional room. In the bakery one is able to bake their own traditional “Bread of Kuniów”. www.kuniow.pl It is highly recommended to taste the specialties of Silesian cuisine in Chocianowice. Numerous ecological farms offering healthy and natural food and educational meetings promoting environmental protection are held in Borkowice, Bąków-Brzezinki, BiadaczKamienisko, Biadacz-Brodnica, Bogdańczowice. Tourist and Recreational Centre is situated in Bąków. There are three palaces in Opole region in which there are nowadays some ecological farms organized and all of them are in Kluczbork area: Gołkowice, Biskupice, Proślice. This impressively restored palace in Maciejów may be visited each Sunday. Sacrum Opole region is a place of high tolerance for different cultures, traditions and nationalities. Churches with their small cemeteries, crosses, chapels: these are the “stone testimonies” 127 of past ages, people’s achievements, sometimes complicated history and big plans concerning the future. Each sanctuary is different. They are of different architecture style, size and even shape of towers. In the area of Kluczbork and Olesno we wander along a perfectly marked “Track of wooden sacral architecture”. It begins in Opole-Bierkowice, then leads you through Czarnowąsy, Dobrzeń Wielki, Kolanowice, Laskowice, Bierdzany, Lasowice Wielkie, Lasowice Małe, Chocianowice, Stare Olesno, Wędrynia and finally we reach the most interesting in Europe pilgrimage church of St. Anna near Olesno. It is built on a rose scheme and is of “zero class” as far as relics classification is concerned. Its model along with the model of the Eiffel tower were presented during the world architecture exhibition in New York. Some interesting and worth seeing architecture surprise in the region is a pyramid in Rożnów – a tombstone of general von Eben and 40 Silesian aristocrats including descendants of the Hohenzollern line. The pyramid was built by a disciple of Carl Langhans who was a creator of the Brandenburg Gate. Journey into medieval times www.byczyna.pl Byczyna – a picturesque small town placed in Kluczbork area is a pure historical treasure. It is worth one’s while to spend some time walking along medieval defence walls or visit the nicely restored market-place. You will feel the atmosphere of past times but even today we may be witnesses of great events. Here is “Zamoyski approaching Byczyna borders” – a battle commemorating 420 anniversary of the victory of hetman Jan Zamoyski over the troops of Austrian archduke Maksymilian Habsburg. The tourist product of Opole region: in 2007 in Biskupice near Byczyna a Polish-Czech Knighthood Instruction Centre was founded. This centre is operating 12 months a year in a specially built replica of a medieval strong- hold. There are organized workshops, instruction meetings, concerts of medieval music, horse riding exercises, or lessons of old handicraft. Opole Silesia full of attractions and always ready for tourists Almost each locality in Opole region has its own attraction making tourists interested, bewitched and willing to come back. It may be an architectural monument, some impressive example of nature, nicely restored palace or perfectly prepared touristfriendly facilities i.e. tennis courts, music clubs, bowling-alleys. Opole region is situated on a historical Polish-German-Czech border and is of unique meaning as far as its geographical position is concerned. It is a home for 35 cities, 1561 villages and 71 communes belonging to 12 administrative districts. There are many preserved relics of the past. There are people always willing to help, tolerant, open to other cultures but in traditional manner bound with their small country or as Opole Germans say: bound with our heimat. This small homeland isn’t however out-of-the-way place but still an integrated part of Europe with its rich cultural aftermath of Opole Silesia. The beauty of Opole region villages and this policy to preserve its original look has been praised many times during contests “Restoring the village” promoting ways of saving Polish rural tradition. Coming back from each of the suggested excursions, we will realize how many interesting places have been waiting so long to be finally discovered. We actually used to pass them by without spotting their beauty and exceptionality. www.orot.pl Marshall Office of Opole Region: www.umwo.opole.pl 128
Similar documents
Opole Voivodeship
The capital of the Voivodeship – is the center of the region in administration, cultural, science and industrial meaning. All most important events are centered here. The capital of the Voivodeship...
More information