91Ponzi 2012 Pinot Noir - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Transcription

BUYINGGUIDE
FEBRUARY
Snow blankets a
Pinot Noir vineyard
in Oregon’s
Willamette Valley.
JANIS MIGLAVS/DANITA DELIMONT
2015
IN THIS MONTH’S GUIDE
2
OREGON
59
BORDEAUX
79 LOMBARDY
25
CALIFORNIA
67 RHÔNE
79
CENTRAL ITALY
47
ARGENTINA
70 GERMANY
86
SPIRITS
52
SPAIN
76 NORTHEAST ITALY
88 BEERS
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM
WINEMAG.COM | 1
BUYINGGUIDE
OREGON
91
O
90
interesting all the way through a long finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $20
Celebrating vintage variation and diversity
regon vintners have been riding a
fandel, Tempranillo, Grenache, Chardonnay,
weather-driven roller coaster over the
Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Viognier abound.
past few years, and the vintage condiSmall experiments with Arneis, Chasselas,
tions have tested their mettle. It’s also
Grüner Veltliner and other racy whites, though
provided some genuine excitement for wine
still rare, prove the state is no one trick pony.
drinkers bored with wines (and wine regions)
But back to those Pinot Noirs. They not only
that never show a hint of vintage variation.
shine when new; they can age into the sort of
Oregon’s winemakers embrace vintage varigorgeous, resonant, evocative, subtle, mindation, and 2011–2014 is as excitbending wines that have made
ing and interesting as it gets. In
Burgundies the wine world’s preOregon’s wine2011, though the year was cool
eminent Pinots. Oregon’s finest
and not all grapes ripened evenmakers embrace Pinots age very well indeed, and
ly, the best Pinot Noirs are balvintage variation, the Cellar Selections you’ll find
anced, aromatic and complex,
here may confidently be tucked
and 2011–2014 is away for at least a decade, and
with the structure to age. The
as exciting and in- maybe longer. For those looking
2012 vintage, almost universally acclaimed as great, is easy to teresting as it gets. for more immediate satisfaction,
love. The fruit ripened beautifulthe bountiful 2012 harvest has
ly, the wines all but made themdelivered some exceptional valselves and the flavors are rich, luscious and
ues that are also enjoyable now.
deep.
Beyond Oregon, we also review the lastThe excitement in Oregon extends well beest releases from California, Argentina, Spain,
yond the Willamette Valley and its Pinots (inFrance, Germany and Italy. And, as always,
cluding Blanc and Gris). From the Walla Walla
be sure to check out our complete database,
Valley to the Columbia Gorge and southern Orwith thousands more reviews, at buyingguide.
egon, growers are finding success with a variety
winemag.com.
of grapes. Stunning examples of Syrah, ZinCheers!
—Paul Gregutt
King Estate 2013 Domaine Pinot Gris (Oregon). Stylish and complex, with its fleshy
pear fruit set in a frame of bracing minerality, this
is a wine of lucid clarity. It conveys the depth of
looking into a deep, transparent mountain spring,
with that same tongue-tickling minerality. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
Chehalem 2013 Three Vineyard Pinot Gris
(Willamette Valley). Lovely floral fragrances lead into an elegant wine with racy acidity. The
clover impression continues on the palate, along
with apple skin and white peaches. The residual
sugar (10 g/L) is barely noticeable. —P.G.
abv: 11.9%
Price: $22
90
Iris Vineyards 2013 Pinot Gris (Oregon). For
full review see page 11. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $18
90
King Estate 2013 Backbone Pinot Gris (Oregon). Fresh and bursting with youthful
brightness, this five-vineyard blend mixes apple,
pear and golden raisins with a pleasing accent of
clover and honey. Everything is in proportion, and
the wine has a well-defined, sculpted mouthfeel.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
90
Winter’s Hill 2013 Pinot Gris (Dundee Hills).
Good grip and focus are the hallmarks here,
showcasing pinpoint fruit flavors of orange, apple
and pear. Precision crafting and immaculate acidity
contribute to a lingering, refreshing finish, with a
gently-rendered phenolic bite. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
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PINOT GRIS
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King Estate 2013 Unity Pinot Gris (Oregon).
King Estate makes several different versions
of Pinot Gris, but this belongs at the very top, with
pitch-perfect pear fruit at its core. Fresh, textural
and brightly racy, it’s an elegant and generous wine
with a crisp, lingering finish that suggests it will
continue to improve through 2020. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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The Eyrie Vineyards 2013 Pinot Gris (Dundee
Hills). The lovely wines from this pioneering
estate, now in the capable hands of second-generation winemaker Jason Lett, are generally priced well
below any comparable efforts. Here the texture and
minerality evoke surpassing elegance. Lime, grapefruit, a bite of pineapple all come into play, with the
depth and balance that suggests several years of life
ahead. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
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WillaKenzie Estate 2013 Pinot Gris (YamhillCarlton District). This is a lush and fragrant
wine, instantly appealing with aromas of orange
blossom and sweet pear. Quite dry and concentrated, it brings further flavors of citrus, grapefruit and
lemon rind as it plays out in a lingering, refreshing
finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
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David Hill 2013 Estate Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Tart pineapple fruit, with a
lipsmacking lick of lemon meringue pie, a hint of
candied orange peel and a slice of apricot all work
together in this juicy and complex wine. The concentration is impressive, and the balance keeps it
Apolloni 2013 L Cuvée Pinot Gris (Willamette
Valley). Floral scents, lemon zest, orange
and pineapple swirl together, leading into a fruitpowered palate which reaches across the citrus
spectrum and into papaya. Flavors are penetrating
and the finish tight, so give it extra time to breathe.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
89
Carabella 2013 Estate Pinot Gris (Chehalem
Mountains). Fresh and forward, this offers
a pleasing mix of lime, grapefruit and pear, lightly
spiced. It’s a tight, sleek wine, with good supporting
acidity and a refreshing mineral streak. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Cória 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley).
For full review see page 12.
abv: 11.3%
Price: $21
Continued on Page 17
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | FEBRUARY 2015
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release
and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine
Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular
contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior
Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Tasting Coordinator Alexander Peartree,
Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike
DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New
York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin
O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt
Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and
Sean Sullivan in Washington.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect the input of all tasters.
Unless otherwise stated, all spirit reviews are by Kara Newman
and all beer reviews are by Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its
suggested national retail price, its alcohol (abv) as reported to us
by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices
are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
97
95
96
95
95
94
Wayfarer 2012 The Traveler Pinot Noir (Fort
Ross-Seaview). From an estate block planted
to a mysterious suitcase clone, this is an insanely
memorable and indelible Pinot. High in acidity,
it discloses a touch of cedar on the back palate,
richly luxurious and just aching for wild Sonoma
duck adorned in a cherry reduction sauce. Cherry
pit, berry, lavender and violet play on the nose and
tongue, infusing the wine with a playfulness balanced by power. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
Hess Collection 2012 Small Block Series
Malbec (Mount Veeder). From one of the
few Napa Valley wineries to showcase Malbec, this
wine is a testament to the virtues of that devotion.
It offers rich, dreamy flavors of blueberry cobbler,
blackberry and licorice, lifted acidity and plush, soft
tannins, all gorgeously finished in spicy chocolate
and vanilla. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind.
Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8
samples. Reviewers may know general information about a flight
to provide context—vintage, variety or appellation—but never
the producer or retail price of any given selection. When possible,
products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Acceptable 80–82:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price
with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae for
determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are generally priced at $15 or less.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.com/
contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting & Review
Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@wineenthusiast.
net. There is no charge for submitting products. We make
every effort to taste all products submitted for review, but there
is no guarantee that all products submitted will be tasted, or
that reviews will appear in the magazine. All samples must be
accompanied by the appropriate submission forms, which may
be downloaded from our Web site.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information
on label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax
866.896.8786; or email [email protected].
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
Ponzi 2012 Aurora Vineyard Chardonnay
(Willamette Valley). This sensational effort
comes from 20-year-old vines. It’s a glorious wine;
textural, generous and complex. The bright and
fruity midpalate blends flavors of peach, quince,
honey, tea and caramel, buoyed by juicy acidity and
a touch of minerality. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $60
Elk Cove 2012 Roosevelt Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A star even among a stellar
group of 2012 releases from Elk Cove, this 20-yearold vineyard really delivers the goods. Time has
tempered the herbal aromatics, giving this rich, ripe
effort a subtle subtext of olive and sage. Black cherry, dark chocolate and a dusty, mocha finish with
a hint of habanero pepper bring this wine together
beautifully. Delicious already, it should continue to
improve 2025–2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $85
Ponzi 2012 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A potpourri of exotic
scents and flavors, this vineyard selection opens
with scents of rose, raspberry, lavender and tea. The
palate is generous and complex, mixing in nutmeg,
chocolate, star anise and cola. Although it promises
many years of life ahead, it’s already too good to resist. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $100
Devil Proof 2012 Farrow Ranch Malbec (Alexander Valley). Winemaker Jesse Katz pulled
out all the stops to craft this small-production Malbec, proving that the right fruit in the right hands
can yield crazy-good results. Having spent time aging in 100% new French oak, the wine needs time
to open, but once it does, look out. Concentrated
swirls of wild blackberry and truffle are framed
by soft tannins and measured acidity. Drink now
through 2024, easily. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
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Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch Freestone Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). From a coastal vineyard in the southwest
corner of the Russian River Valley, this is earthy
and brambly on the nose, inviting in its sense of
wild abandon. Concentrated yet vibrant in acidity,
the flavors lean toward cranberry and tart cherry,
completely enveloped in intriguing cardamom spice.
Elegant and balanced. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $72
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The 50 by 50 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Sourced from Rodgers Creek Vineyard, this is an ethereal, feminine Pinot, sublime
in color and texture, bright in tart cherry. Brisk in
acidity, it offers an undercurrent of dried herbes de
Provence, cinnamon and exotic spice, evolving in
the glass as it goes. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
Arrocal 2010 Selección (Ribera del Duero).
Elegant yet ripe on the nose, this gets going
in fine form via spicy, exotic, oaky aromas on top
of primary berry tones. Powerful and oaky on the
palate, with a creamy vanilla flavor, this brings on
the blackberry, mocha, cocoa and toast as it works
its way to a clean, long finish. One can drink this
now, but the optimum window will be 2018–2021.
Grapes of Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $42
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Famille Perrin 2011 Château de Beaucastel
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). An impressive
wine by any measure, this shows ample complexity in its mix of black cherry, dark earth and briery
notes. The tannins frame the wine’s opulent fruit,
while remaining wonderfully unobtrusive. This
should drink well for at least 15 years from the vintage. Vineyard Brands. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $120
94
Sierra Cantabria 2011 Finca El Bosque (Rioja). Burnt toast, mineral, raw char, pencil
lead, tobacco and blackberry aromas make for a
highly complex and powerful nose. Following on
that theme, this is packed and intense on the palate,
with smoky black fruit and licorice flavors that finish oaky, toasty and blackened. This is the epitome
of a modern Rioja thrill ride. It will take its passengers now through 2035; 200 cases made. Fine Estates From Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $145
Tobacco Road 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This is a mature Cabernet
that’s still generous in brambly black cherry and
plum, with layers of spice intermingled among the
fine tannins and charred oak. Black tea and tobacco
complete the intrigue of this wine, with a black licorice finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $199
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Viñedos de Paganos 2011 La Nieta (Rioja).
Deep, dense and penetrating on the nose
with the power of graphite, blackberry and mocha
aromas, La Nieta is a wide-awake, bright wine that’s
chomping at the bit to get out of the bottle and run.
Coffee, mocha and blackberry aromas are oaky for
sure, with toast, vanilla and creamy notes driving a
long finish. Drink through 2026. Fine Estates From
Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $145
Au Contraire 2013 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). This is a delightfully floral and
lemony-crisp wine, with a touch of crème brûlée
balanced between layers of citrus. Despite the rich
accent, it’s light-bodied and easy to like, offering
subtle complexity and a sultry, spicy finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $20
93
Dr. Loosen 2012 Erdener Treppchen Alte Reben GG Dry Riesling (Mosel). The nose of this
dry, richly textured Riesling entices with notes of
apples and pears dipped in wildflower honey. Rich
and languorous, it’s intensely juicy in grapefruit flavor, and finishes long, with a zesty mineral flourish.
Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $42
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Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Fox Den Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Green Valley). Elegant and well
structured, this offers vibrant strawberry fruit
wrapped around inviting aromatics of violet and
spice. This cool-climate Pinot boasts a silky texture
on the palate and finishes with subtle suggestions of
wood smoke and cinnamon. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
93
Gary Farrell 2012 Rochioli Vineyard Old River
Block Single Oak Puncheon Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). Bright, beautiful and balanced, this tiny production wine is aflutter in hightoned citrus notes, melon and peach. A well-crafted
marriage of power and sophistication, the aromatics
of wild jasmine shine, while texturally the wine is
round and softly layered. —V.B.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $60
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Dutton-Goldfield 2012 McDougall Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Overlooking
the Gualala River and Pacific Ocean, the McDougall
Vineyard reaches elevations of 1,100 feet, a perfect vantage point from which to breathe in fresh,
cooling coastal air. The resulting wine is awash in
bright, vibrant acidity, yet offers equal measures of
juicy black cherry fruit and dried herb spice. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $58
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ONX 2012 Reckoning (Paso Robles). This
mashup of 62% Syrah, 16% Petite Sirah,
8% Tempranillo, 7% Grenache, 5% Zinfandel and
2% Malbec delivers aromas of black cherry and
Chinese five spice as well as mint and black earth.
The palate picks up blackberry-laced iced tea with
sprigs of mint and pinches of cardamom, alongside
spicy gingerbread cake. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $45
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Hunnicutt 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This sumptuous Cabernet speaks
volumes to the power of good winemaking in a challenging vintage. The wine is juicy, rich and layered
in crisp red fruit and dusty spice. It’s built to age
through 2020, but you could decant it now and enjoy. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $85
SignoSeis 2011 The Angel Oak Celestial Barrel
Fermented Malbec (Valle de Uco). Deep, ripe,
smooth blackberry, prune, cola and earth aromas
are elegant and harmonious. This small-lot Malbec
(50 cases made) shows ripeness and freshness on
the palate as well as lightly roasted blackberry, cassis and chocolate flavors. A firm, dry, on-the-money
finish is the final note in this wine’s well-sung chorus. Drink through 2018. Argentinean Wines, LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $75
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Foxen 2012 John Sebastiano Vinyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A powerful, brooding
nose of black cardamom and crushed clove melds
with pomegranate and cherry, resulting in an incredibly aromatic wine that hails from a popular
vineyard on the eastern edge of the appellation. The
flavors are also quite deep—sour cherry, mocha,
more clove—atop layers of bitter plum peels and refreshing acid. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $48
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Le Vigne 2011 Âme de la Vigne (Paso Robles).
This ripe, attractive wine leads with notes of
red and black cherries, dried sage, crushed violets
and pipe smoke on the fragrant, herbal nose. Once
sipped, it’s light and lofty for such a dense-smelling
wine, with well-spiced cherry flavors and easy-toenjoy tannins on the palate. —M.K.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $39
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Stone The Crows 2012 Three Twins Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Opening
with a rich, luxurious nose, this wine is delightfully
bright on the palate before evolving into brooding
notes of black cherry and smoky oak. Hints of dark
chocolate and coconut shavings round out the intrigue and complexity. The wine is ready to enjoy
now, but worth cellaring through 2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $95
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Volker Eisele Family Estate 2010 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made with 16%
Merlot to soften it, this is an unctuous, fully satisfying wine, restrained and complex, grown on the
family’s Chiles Valley estate. It opens with ripe red
berry and currant as well as a suggestion of vanilla, the oak providing structure and texture. Enjoy
through 2025. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $50
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Dunning Vineyards 2013 Westside Estate
Wines Chardonnay (Paso Robles). One of the
many vintners proud of their forthcoming Willow
Creek District appellation, Bob and Jo-Ann Dunning’s Chardonnay presents delicate aromas of yellow flowers, vanilla bean, peach skin and limestone.
The white rocks extend to the palate, picking up
nectarine elements, too, creating a lean but flavorful wine that’s refreshing enough to sip all night.
—M.K.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $26
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Wrath 2012 Ex Anima Syrah (Monterey).
Deeply intriguing and funky aromas of sweet
tar, charred blueberries and hot rubber emerge from
this study of using minimal amounts of new oak on
a typically oak-aged variety. Some may find the reductive nose challenging, but the palate is more approachable, with dark chocolate and cassis flavors.
Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
Hendry 2013 Hendry Vineyard Pinot Gris
(Napa Valley). A balanced and lilting 100%
varietal white that touched no oak, it’s sublime in
white peach and garden herb notes, with memorable minerality on the finish. Crisp and refreshing,
it’s ideal for picnics, beach outings and pairing with
light fare. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $18
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Fiddlehead 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy
Canyon of Santa Barbara). This bottling
masterfully handles the young appellation’s tropically inclined fruit, with apple candy aromas and a
soft, rich mouthfeel. The flavors nod briefly toward
the traditional greener, grassy side of the grape, but
it’s a smoother experience, less biting, with a hint of
barrel smoke. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Bertani 2011 Villa Arvedi (Amarone della Valpolicella Valpantena). Sleek and polished,
this opens with lovely fragrances of blue flowers,
incense and sandalwood. The juicy palate weaves
together ripe black plum, black cherry, white pepper and clove, balanced by supple tannins. Palm Bay
International. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $55
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Grgich Hills 2010 Yountville Selection Estate
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
The winery makes this wine from vines planted in
1959 that it now farms organically. In this vintage,
they produced a hearty, sizable wine, ripe, soft and
intense, in need of time to coax the blackberry and
cassis fruit forward. Enjoy through 2025. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $195
Mercy 2012 Riverbed Pinot Noir (Arroyo
Seco). This wine comes from three vineyards that sit atop a dry, ancient riverbed. The
nose mixes sour cherry and toasted vanilla bean
with scents of ginger and turned earth, while a soft
mouthfeel frames flavors of cherry cola and beet
juice. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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Michael David 2012 Earthquake Petite Sirah
(Lodi). A deep, dark color combines with
extravagantly spicy oak aromas, rich fruit flavors
and layers of fine tannins for a show-stopping performance. This is full-bodied and firm in texture,
abundantly laced with blackberry and boysenberry
flavors and pretty much irresistible. Drink now or
cellar through 2018. —J.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $26
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Midnight Cellars 2011 Estate Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). A pleasantly dank nose of black tobacco, cedar and deep purple fruit like elderberry
combine for a strong wine from the Willow Creek
District. It’s elegantly brooding, redolent of stewed
plums, leaving the tongue gripped with tannins and
refreshed with acid. —M.K.
abv: 16.7%
Price: $39
Muga 2006 Prado Enea Gran Reserva (Rioja).
Cedar, char and blackberry aromas are full
and ripe on the nose. Given the wine’s age, its structure and tannic weight are just right. Earthy, lightly
roasted flavors of spiced raspberry and plum finish
peppery and dry. Drink through 2020. Fine Estates
From Spain. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $62
ONX 2012 Mad Crush (Paso Robles). Wildly
complex aromas show on this blend of 72%
Grenache, 16% Mourvèdre, 10% Tempranillo and
2% Alicante Bouschet. Ripe raspberry and eucalyptus run into notes of soy sauce and dried lilac.
Flavors lean toward purple fruit and ripe raspberry,
with bergamot and pencil lead working their way in
as well. —M.K.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $45
Penner-Ash 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). This 7,000-case effort retained the
quality for which the winery’s limited-production
wines are known. The fruit-laden 2012 vintage
helps, and the wine beguiles from first sniff to last
sip. Cherries, chocolate, sandalwood and saffron interweave. The mouthfeel is soft and supple, and the
delicate balance of fruit, acid and barrel never lets
you down. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
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Robert Hall 2012 Meritage (Paso Robles).
Blackberry, charred sage, beef crust and
cedar notes introduce this blend of 48% Merlot,
37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Petit Verdot and
2% Cabernet Franc. It’s lively on the palate, with a
lingering finish of dried cherries. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Sanctuary 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Veteran winemaker Dennis Martin’s take on the Miller family’s
famous vineyard presents pretty aromas of violet,
red rose and black raspberry, along with turned
earth and wet mushroom. It’s soft on the palate,
with pomegranate and beet juice, anise and shiitake. —M.K.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $45
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ONX 2012 Crux (Paso Robles). This blend
of 43% Syrah, 31% Mourvèdre, 23%
Grenache and 3% Alicante Bouschet opens with an
elegant and nuanced nose, featuring scents of blackberry crumble, lilac and other purple flowers. The
tart, earthy flavors combine black raspberry and
vanilla with beet root, black earth and sagebrush. A
deep, heady blend. —M.K.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $45
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Ram’s Gate 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros).
Crisp, clean, light and bright, this is an
easy-to-love Chardonnay, with a soft texture and
ample concentration. Notes of citrus and fresh pear
dominate, with lovely streaks of subtle spice adding
depth and interest to the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
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Sierra Cantabria 2011 Colección Privada (Rioja). The full-force nose of this wine boasts
smashed-berry aromas with minerals and a touch of
creamy oak. Compact and intense, this is a muscledup Rioja showing heafty oak and toast alongside
ripe berry flavors. Drink through 2025. Fine Estates
From Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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Tablas Creek 2012 Esprit Blanc de Tablas Estate Grown & Bottled Roussanne-Grenache
Blanc-Picpoul Blanc (Paso Robles). This historic
producer’s flagship blend of Roussanne, Grenache
Blanc and Picpoul offers scents of wild honey and
lemon custard. The flavors walk proudly between
those elements and a citrus peel bitterness, woven
amidst the freshness of seltzer and morning dew.
—M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
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Vina Robles 2011 Estate Petite Sirah (Paso
Robles). Complex aromas of stewed cherries, peppercorns and burned toast abound in this
wine from the recently named Estrella district. The
flavors are well integrated, with mocha, espresso
and black cherry most apparent. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
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Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bottled
Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). The first winery
to plant Syrah in the county continues to produce
powerful but layered expressions. This delivers
rich aromas of cherry, stewed plum and blackberry
alongside sage and a wisp of vanilla. On the palate,
it starts rich, until bright acidity and tannins bring
balance amidst mocha and blackberry jam flavors
and an oak-powered vanilla finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Apolloni 2012 Dolce Vino Viognier (Oregon).
The winery notes that this was done in an
ice wine style—cryogenically—and it was done
very well indeed. Pretty aromas show concentrated
lemon and honey highlights. Once tasted, they carry
through with flavors of orange marmalade, maple
syrup and brown sugar. Sweet but not cloying, it’s a
slice of lemon pie in a glass. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12.3%
Price: $22/375 ml
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Crux 2012 G-S-M (Russian River Valley). A
blend of 52% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 16%
Mourvèdre and 2% Petite Sirah—all rare finds in
Pinot-heavy Russian River—this wine is aged in
mostly neutral barrels, although a third of the Syrah
sees time in new French oak. Spicy layers of anise
and tar intermingle with balanced blackberry and
black-cherry brightness. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
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Brecon Estate 2012 Petit Sirah (Monterey
County). Black as night in the glass, the
dark-leaning, attention-grabbing aromas range
from black cherry to cassis, with some slate. The
wine lacquers the palate with brooding purple fruit,
boasting flavors of blackberry syrup, white pepper
and violet. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
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Ernest 2012 The Engineer Romanini Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From both
Pommard and Calera clones, this Pinot offers a generously earthy nose of forest floor and wild mushrooms before delving into subtle black and red cherry
fruit. Weighty on the palate, the tannins are soft, yet
the wine finishes lean. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
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Criss Cross 2013 Petite Sirah (Clarksburg).
This interesting and complex cool-climate
Petite Sirah tastes more like its relative Syrah than
usual—and it contains almost 10% Syrah. The aromas recall black pepper, roast beef and ripe blackberries. Tannins are firm but not massive, giving
the texture a sense of layering and finesse. Editors’
Choice. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
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Famille Perrin 2012 Les Sinards (Châteauneufdu-Pape). Fermented in oak (50% new), this
is a broad, toast-accented wine that delivers hints
of honey and marmalade yet remains reasonably
long and focused on the finish. Best enjoyed before
the end of 2015. Vineyard Brands. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
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Hall 2011 Jack’s Masterpiece Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). The 4% Petit Verdot in
this dark, inky Cabernet Sauvignon is doing its job
in terms of color and structure, adding much of both
to the mix. Overall the wine is savory and full-bodied on the palate, with bits of spicy clove and sage
around black cherry and toasted oak. Enjoy through
2030. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $125
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Le Vigne 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso
Robles). There’s a nice touch of green pasilla
chile on the nose of this wine, with red currant undertones. The peppery elements consume the palate
as well, giving it a more distinct and food-friendly
nature than overly ripe versions. —M.K.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $35
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Ponzi 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).
This bottling occupies the middle step between Ponzi’s Tavola and reserve-level Pinots. The
exceptional 2012 vintage delivers a wine with unusual concentration for its price. It presents a refreshing mix of briary berry, mineral, hints of chive,
pepper, chocolaty barrel notes and a suggestion of
yeast, and is finished with fine-grain tannins. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $40
Ridge 2012 East Bench Zinfandel (Dry Creek
Valley). Deliciously ripe and generous, this
full-bodied Zin has plenty to like: ripe blackberry,
black cherry and baking spice aromas. Deep flavors
echo the fruit and layer it with hints of vanilla and
nutmeg. While full-bodied and nicely thick in texture, it’s not over the top and remains balanced by
firm acidity and welcome tannins. —J.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
Starmont 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Pretty in honeysuckle and gardenia,
this bright wine, blended with 5% Sémillon, recalls
fresh-squeezed lemonade before the sugar, refreshing and intensely delicious. The acidity is balanced
by enough weight to dial the volume down and flavors of rich, lush melon. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
Volver 2011 Triga (Alicante). This Monastrellled blend opens with a smoky blast of toasty
oak on top of forest floor and herbal tones. The palate feels massive and extracted, showing ripe cassis and blackberry. Chocolate, herb, toast, berry
and black currant flavors ride through the ripe finish. Drink through 2017. Jorge Ordoñez Selections.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Muscardini 2011 Unti Vineyards Syrah (Dry
Creek Valley). Minty, this restrained Syrah is
from a sought-after vineyard, a pioneer in Sonoma
County Rhône-style wines. Here, the producer keeps
things interesting in swathes of white pepper, mint
and cranberry, as well as a strong sense of leather
throughout. High in acidity, it needs time to come
together; try after 2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $38
Silverado 2011 SOLO Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stags Leap District). Solo comes from the
winery’s estate vineyard, the third vineyard planted
to Cabernet Sauvignon in the Stags Leap District. It
is elegant and old-school in style, pretty in violets
and red berries, with a juicy, soft texture. It begs for
steak. —V.B.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $100
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Apolloni 2013 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley). Done entirely in stainless steel, this
low-alcohol effort is thoroughly delicious. Cucumber, apple and green pear fruit combine with juicy
acids in this smooth, persistent and refreshing
white wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
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Black Stallion 2012 Pinot Noir (Los Carneros). Earthy and savory, this Pinot is soft
and velvety on the palate, entirely inviting and mellow. Flavors are marked by brambly black and red
cherry fruit, dried herb and anise. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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Bolla 2011 Creso (Veronese). Aromas of
crushed plum, grilled herbs, game, exotic
spice and toast lead the nose on this blend of Corvina and Cabernet Sauvignon. The lush palate offers fleshy blackberry, nutmeg and mocha alongside
soft, velvety tannins. Drink through 2018. Banfi
Vintners. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $25
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Brecon Estate 2013 Albariño (Central
Coast). This Spanish varietal is a fastrising Central Coast star, and this selection shows it
off well. Steely scents of dry hard-apple cider greet
the nose, and the palate is all about bright and fresh
acidity, presented through lime juice and skin as
well as tart pears. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
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Château Floréal Lauguens 2012 Bordeaux
Supérieur. This rich wine features great
tannins and ripe black fruits. It comes from a property on the slopes above the Garonne river that also
produces Côtes de Bordeaux. Already delicious in its
layers of structure and fruit, it is packed with ripe
flavors and finished with acidity. It can age and will
be best from 2017. Michael Corso Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
Clos Cantenac 2011 Saint-Émilion. Already
well developed, this solid, wood-aged wine
packs powerful tannins as well as fruit. It has a
dense character, spice and a core of firmness. With
its rich fruit and fresh acidity at the end, it’s nearly
ready to drink but merits a wait. Drink from 2016.
Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $75
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Cória 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). Picked at 19.6 brix (a sparklingwine level of ripeness), this bone-dry, high acid
rosé is intensely aromatic, with lush scents of rose
petals and fresh strawberries. It’s spring in a glass,
wonderfully expressive and long lasting. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 11.3%
Price: $20
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Brandlin 2011 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Largely from Mount
Veeder, this Cabernet Sauvignon has small percentages of Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. The trio
combine to offer currant and cranberry around a
complex, woody core of oak, black tea and herbs.
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Château Mirefleurs 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Ripe, full and smooth, this obviously
wood-aged wine has also managed to retain its ripe
fruit. It’s soft, full of acidity and black currants,
with a good touch of spice to bring out the complexity of the wine. Drink from 2017. Luneau USA Inc.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Dry Creek Vineyard 2012 DCV Estate Block
10 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). The
winery once made 30,000 cases of Chardonnay.
With this release, it micro-sized that number down
to 1,250, focusing on 30 vine rows to make a better
wine. Mission accomplished—this medium-bodied
wine offers a creamy texture, with concentrated
fig and pear flavors around a mineral-laden finish.
—V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Duckhorn 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley).
For the debut of the winery’s Chardonnay, fruit is sourced largely from Oak Knoll, Carneros and Rutherford to craft an aromatically lemony
wine that gives way to fuller tidings of caramel and
vanilla on the palate. The finish offers balanced and
refreshing acidity. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
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Gary Farrell 2012 Bacigalupi Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is
bright in notes of apple blossom, lemon and lime,
with additional hints of mineral and oak. Developing in the glass, it offers flavors of grapefruit and
lemongrass from middle to end, while the finish is
lightly marked by a honey accent. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
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Iris Vineyards 2013 Pinot Gris (Oregon).
Roughly half the fruit is estate grown. Lush,
potent aromatics introduce an impressively concentrated wine, abundant in fresh pear flavor. An
orange liqueur highlight adds a sharp, well-defined
note to the finish. This wine should develop nicely
through 2018 or 2020. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $18
Ironstone 2012 Reserve Old Vine Zinfandel
(Lodi). A smooth, supple version of Zinfandel, this is full-bodied and rich but not overly
showy or oaky. Blended from 90% Zinfandel plus
Petite Sirah and Malbec, it has enticing wild blackberry aromas and flavors, touches of cinnamon and
cedar and a lingering finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Joseph Phelps 2012 Freestone Vineyards
Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
Crafted from grapes grown in two estate vineyards,
Pastorale and Quarter Moon, this wine deftly provides a taste of wild strawberry and feral forest
floor, offering concentration within a lean frame.
The finish memorably imprints lasting cardamom
spice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
Marimar Estate 2013 Don Miguel Vineyard
Estate Grown & Bottled Albariño (Russian
River Valley). The winery excels at capturing the
coolness and acidity of its vineyard site. Estate
grown and bottled, this offers a creamy expression
of bright, freshly cut kiwi, lychee and lime, surrounded by pretty floral aromas. Refreshing but
with ample body, it calls out longingly for seafood.
—V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
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Hendry 2013 Hendry Vineyard Albariño (Napa Valley). Brisk and alive, this
Spanish-
inspired white offers refreshing bites of
ripe apple and bright citrus around the mediumbodied palate. It offers a subtle texture and a hint
of minerality. —V.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $20
Jamieson Ranch 2012 Double Lariat Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Supple and
accessible, this Cabernet is bright in acidity and
soft in tannins, yet amply structured. The palate is
layered with flavors of cherry and cranberry, with a
hit of nuanced oak on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
Marimar Estate 2012 Doña Margarita Vineyard Mas Cavalls Unfiltered Estate Grown
& Bottled Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Ripe black
raspberry and cherry mark this lovely Pinot that
is rich and concentrated. The oak is prominent,
with a touch of meaty gaminess on the full palate.
Balanced, the wine’s acidity remains remarkably
bright. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $44
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Muscardini 2011 Cypress Ranch Sangiovese
(Napa County). From the wilds of Pope Valley, east of the Napa Valley yet still within county
lines, this red is awash in savory flavors of tarragon,
sage, tomato leaf and olive, structured and serious
in chewy tannins and tar. Give it time and it will
reward. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $36
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Ridge 2012 Three Valleys Zinfandel (Sonoma County). What a treat to find a truly
dry, balanced table wine among a sea of sweet and
overoaked Zins. Plenty of blackberry, clove, sage and
cherry flavors are supported by just firm-enough
tannins and medium body. The blend is 79% Zinfandel, 12% Carignane, 8% Petite Sirah and 1%
Alicante Bouschet. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $26
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Smith & Hook 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Central Coast). Relying on decades of experience, the Hahn family makes Cabernet that’s
easy to quaff. This one features aromas of warm
blueberry pie and melting ice cream, with a cigarbox backbone. The flavors mix ripe fruit and smoke,
proving light in the mouth and not too serious, but
delicious. —M.K.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
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Viader 2011 Red (Napa Valley). An elegant,
balanced blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Cabernet Franc, this offers clove
and red currant in abundance around a still-present
core of oak and cedar. It’s ripe and lush, making it
accessible and enjoyable now. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $150
Bodegas Bilbainas 2011 Viña Pomal Crianza
(Rioja). Focused dark berry, spice and
leather aromas form the opening to this nicely made
crianza. The palate has a snappy feel, showing firm
but controlled tannins. Oak and spice tones hover
over berry fruit flavors and last through a juicy finish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
Michael David 2013 Chardonnay (Lodi). This
wine doesn’t give up its refreshing acidity
as it adds plenty of buttery, toasty oak tones to spice
up the vivid crisp apple and pineapple flavors at its
core. It makes for a lively, dry and appetizing drink
to enjoy now. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
Robert Hall 2013 Cuvée de Robles Red Wine
(Paso Robles). This is a fun and lively blend
of 38% Grenache, 24% Cinsault, 21% Syrah and
17% Petite Sirah, with aromas of fresh wild berries
and white pepper. The flavors are berry punch-like,
with intriguing clove, licorice and anise. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Bonterra 2013 Made With Organic Grapes
Viognier (Mendocino County). There’s a
faint hint of pink in the color of this bright, cheery,
light and appetizing wine. It combines flashes of
crisp green apple with ripe pear, golden cherry and
white peach for a cornucopia of delicious fruit flavor. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
Cória 2013 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley).
This well-made wine shows an interesting
mix of cucumber, lime, pineapple and apple flavors,
underscored by racy, mineral-drenched acidity. It’s
bone dry, textural and refreshing. It’s fun to find a
low-alcohol, bone-dry Oregon Pinot Gris that fits
the region’s seafood so well. —P.G.
abv: 11.3%
Price: $21
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Irony 2012 Small Lot Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast). With good balance
and the classic cherry and herb flavors of Cabernet,
this is tasty and well made. It smells and tastes like
ripe cherries and blackberries sprinkled with a bit
of brown sugar (oak-barrel influence). —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Noble Vines 2012 337 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Lodi). If a Cabernet can be smooth and
creamy, this one is. It offers plenty of fruit flavor,
firm tannins that coat the mouth in a good way, plus
a plush texture that keeps it from being even a bit
harsh. With medium body, a great mouthfeel and
lingering finish, there’s much to like. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
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Vaza 2011 Crianza (Rioja). Earth, leather,
herb and berry aromas set up a firm palate
and gripping structure. The midpalate is focused
on red fruit and light oak tones, while the finish is
crisp, fresh and zesty. Freixenet USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Jekel 2012 Pinot Noir (Monterey). An intellectual Pinot for the price, it offers minerally aromas of iron, blood and graphite. Flavors are
also pleasingly precise, with graphite and steel picking up some ripe raspberry on the edges. It’s lean
and focused. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
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Vina Robles 2013 Estate Sauvignon Blanc
(Paso Robles). This bottling from the Estrella District walks the entire rainbow of the varietal, with chopped dill, fresh oregano, yellow rose
and guava nectar on the nose. On the palate, it goes
in reverse, starting with tropical elements of passion fruit before bending toward the sharper, grassier side of the grape. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $16
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HandCraft 2012 Petite Sirah (California). Lavish fruit and extravagant spicy oak flavors
balance each other well in this big, showy, dark and
tannic wine. The color is black almost to the rim,
and it has plenty of body, thick tannins and concentrated boysenberry flavors. Best now through 2019.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
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Matchbook 2012 The Arsonist Chardonnay
(Dunnigan Hills). In an era of proudly un
oaked Chardonnays, this is a staunch throwback.
It has a rich yellow-gold color, powerful aromas of
toasted oak barrels and toasted walnuts, full body
and viscous texture. Ripe pear flavors are strongly
accented by more oak flourishes. Rich and flavorful,
it’s delicious for those who like this style. —J.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $22
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Cliffhanger Vineyards 2013 Estate Grown Proprietary Red Blend (Vigneti delle Dolomiti).
A blend of 70% Teroldego and 30% Lagrein, this
opens with aromas of forest floor, crushed black
berry, toasted oak and vanilla. The simple, straightforward palate offers dried black cherry, espresso
and a mocha note alongside dusty tannins. Prestige
Wine Imports Corp. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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The White Knight 2013 Viognier (Clarksburg).
Ripe flavors and a plush texture have not
gone out of style in this opulent and tasty Viognier.
Although not technically sweet, it has all these great
dessert flavors: hazelnuts, toasted almonds and
poached pears. The finish lasts 30 seconds or more.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
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Carnivor 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Dark in color, deep in aroma, quietly
intense in flavor and so mouthcoating in texture—
this Cabernet demands to be noticed. Yet all of
those bold elements are wrapped in a tightly woven and softly finished texture. The flavors are like
dark chocolate and ripe blackberries, the mouthfeel
is fine and it’s not overly tannic or too full-bodied.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
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McManis 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Richness, depth and generosity are
good traits of this full-bodied but smooth-textured
Cabernet. Light oak accents don’t cover up the ripe,
juicy, almost jammy blackberry and cherry flavors
that fill the mouth and linger on the finish. It’s an
all-around crowd pleaser that has everything in balance. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Château du Bois Chantant 2012 Cuvée Laurence H. (Bordeaux Supérieur). This complex, ripe wine balances firm wood aging with dark
fruit. It’s full in the mouth, juicy and with plenty of
potential. Solid tannins and rich berry flavors are
coming together. Wait until 2017. Advantage International. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Château La Grange Clinet 2012 Grande
Réserve (Côtes de Bordeaux). Big tannins
and ripe fruits result in a wine that is dense and
structured. The wood aging is apparent, thanks to a
smoky character that pushes over the black currant
fruit. From vineyards on slopes above the Garonne
river, this is a solid wine with a good future. Drink
from 2017. Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Noble Vines 2013 446 San Bernabe Chardonnay (Monterey County). Aromas of lightly
roasted and salted peanuts, Golden Delicious apples
and toasted bread introduce this wine. It’s soft on
the palate, but with refreshing grapefruit-powered
bitterness and cement-like mineral underpinnings.
Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
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McManis 2013 Petite Sirah (California). An
appetizing hickory-smoke aroma and bold
fruit flavors make this one stand out, yet it doesn’t
go too far with the woody character. A hint of bacon
blends well with the ripe blackberry flavors, and the
rich texture and firm tannins make it a great wine
to pair with big portions of protein. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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McManis 2013 Viognier (River Junction). It’s
easy to enjoy the ripe pear, peach, vanilla
and cream flavors in this extremely smooth, mellow
Viognier. The texture is nice and rich, the body is
full, the flavors just short of sweet and the finish
lingers a long time. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Pennywise 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Wood-fire aromas and flavors give
this medium-bodied Cabernet a peppery, spicy personality, and suggest grilled or smoked meat as good
pairings. While the smoky, oaky character is strong,
the wine has generous, ripe fruit flavors, rich but
not harsh tannins, vibrant acidity and a lingering
finish. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Borsao 2013 Garnacha (Campo de Borja). As
usual, this Garnacha is friendly, but serious
enough to satisfy all palates. Floral berry aromas
lead off the bouquet, leading to a juicy, fresh and
pure palate. Flavors of raspberry, plum and a dash of
spice finish with a good texture. Fine Estates From
Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
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Firesteed 2012 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Fleshy
and fruity, with upfront flavors of orange
and pear, this tasty effort is ready for immediate
enjoyment. Whiffs of Graham cracker and cinnamon spice add interest through the finish. Best Buy.
—P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $13
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Firesteed 2010 Riesling (Oregon). Done in a
ripe and fleshy style, this vintage is in its
prime drinking window. Mixed peach, lemon, stone
and citrus fruit, along with a slice of honeydew melon, make this a mouth-filling, all-purpose Riesling,
with barely perceptible sweetness. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 11.4%
Price: $13
BEST BUYS
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Oak Grove 2013 Family Reserve Chardonnay
(California). This achieves a tasty balance
between vivid fruit flavors and those butter, nutmeg and almond influences that can be coaxed out
of Chardonnay grapes. It’ll be difficult to tire of this
one, because of its ripe apple and spice and bright
lemony crispness. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $8
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Schmitt Söhne 2013 Relax Riesling (Mosel).
Pine frond and pollen notes accent brisk
lemon and pear in this lithe off-dry Riesling. The
palate bristles with acidity, but yellow cherry and
peach flavors shine through sweetly on the finish.
Schmitt-Söhne USA. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $10
88
Pennywise 2012 Pinot Noir (California).
Smoky and assertive in aroma, this is concentrated in flavor, with ripe black cherry, a touch
of almost-sweet boysenberry and plenty of toasty,
oaky shadings. Not sweet, but as rich and compelling as a blackberry tart. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
88
Schmitt Söhne Family Wines 2013 Qualitätswein Riesling (Rheinhessen). Crisp and
fruity are apt words to describe this bright, refreshing wine. Off dry in style, it’s juicy in sweet whitegrapefruit flavor accented by zesty acidity and a
polished, mineral warmth on the finish. SchmittSöhne USA. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $9
88
McManis 2013 Chardonnay (River Junction).
This light-bodied Chardonnay makes a nice
break from rich, heavy, oaky versions. Aromas of
dried thyme and parsley lead to pleasing fruit flavors of pear and peach. It has enough texture to fill
the mouth and enough crispness to stay clean on the
finish. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
88
Salentein 2013 Portillo Estate Bottled Malbec (Uco Valley). Dark in color, this chunky,
ripe Malbec opens with blackberry, earth and rubber aromas. That bold, full quality carries onto the
palate, which is staunch and bullish, with pepper
and berry flavors that finish dry, yet weighty and
lush. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
87
Belle Ambiance 2012 Chardonnay (California). It’s easy to like this vibrant Chardonnay
for its generous fruit flavors, subtle oak influence
and creamy texture. It smells like a fruit tart and
tastes fresh and rich at the same time. The ripe fruit
flavors grow on the finish. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
WINEMAG.COM | 15
BUYINGGUIDE
BEST BUYS
BEST BUYS
87
86
87
86
Borsao 2013 Rosé (Campo de Borja). Peach,
melon and brown sugar aromas make for a
pleasant and full bouquet. This is plump and healthy
on the tongue, with fleshy peach tones that finish
dusty, round and a touch sweet in flavor. Drink now.
Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $9
Landshut 2013 Riesling (Rheinhessen). Accented with faint hints of lime and lemon,
the nose on this off-dry Riesling is largely neutral.
The palate, by contrast, is surprisingly luscious in
sunny Meyer lemon and nectarine flavors. It finishes moderately long, with a streak of spine-tingling
acidity. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $5
87
Zolo 2014 Sustainably Farmed Estate Grown
and Bottled Torrontés (Mendoza). This is a
clean, non-oily Torrontés with tropical-fruit aromas. A balanced palate propels lychee, citrus and
melon flavors toward a slightly chunky palate. This
aromatic wine is in the heart of its quality window;
drink immediately. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
Barton & Guestier 2013 Passeport Sauvignon
Blanc-Sémillon (Bordeaux Blanc). The blend
of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon has produced an
attractive, fruity wine that’s young and fresh. Light
and bright, with delicious final acidity, its structure
suggests it could age; drink from the end of 2015.
Barton & Guestier USA. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
Borsao 2013 Viña Borgia (Campo de Borja). A
value wine all the way, this young Garnacha
offers fresh red-fruit aromas and touches of earth
and spice. The palate is equally fresh and lively,
with raspberry, red plum and pepper flavors. Juicy
acidity and a hint of chocolate are found on the finish. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $8
BEST BUYS
85
Black Box 2013 Pinot Noir (California). A
solid, light-red wine emerges from this box,
showing toasty, oaky aromas, raspberry and plum
flavors and a rich texture. While it doesn’t have
strong Pinot Noir varietal character, it’s an enjoyable, mild and easy-to-drink wine. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $25/3 L
85
Borsao 2013 Monte Oton Garnacha (Campo
de Borja). Plum, blackberry and graham
cracker aromas show a funky edge on the nose of
this fruit-forward wine. The jumpy palate is bright
and vibrant, with young, fresh raspberry and plum
flavors. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
85
Belle Ambiance 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). Unabashedly oaky, this has a
smooth texture and ripe plummy flavors. Technically, it’s a dry wine, but it sure smells and tastes
a bit sweet because of the oak-derived brown sugar
and maple syrup characters. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
85
Happy Camper 2013 Chardonnay (California). Lots of fruit flavor and a touch of
sweetness make this easy on the palate. Flavors like
pear, apple and pineapple fill the mouth, with hints
of vanilla and cream mixed in. It’s medium-bodied
and a touch soft. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $9
BEST BUYS
88
Firesteed 2012 Pinot Gris (Oregon). For full
review see page 15. Best Buy.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $13
dimensions that old vines can provide. Drink now
through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
87
94
Chehalem 2012 Ridgecrest Vineyards Pinot
Gris (Ribbon Ridge). Bone-dry and high in
alcohol, this wine somewhat cloaks the heat in firm
acidity. Fruit flavors favor melon and pear, lightly
spiced. You may wish to drink it chilled to up the
tang and smooth out the finish. —P.G.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $29
85
Oak Grove 2013 Family Reserve Viognier
(California). Soft in texture and floral in
aroma, this soothing wine should quiet down spicy
food or make a nice, calming cocktail before dinner.
It’s medium bodied, with unobtrusive mixed tropical- and stone-fruit flavors. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $8
87
Klee 2013 Dampier Vineyard Pinot Gris (Columbia Gorge). As is sometimes the case with
screwcapped wines, this wine has a sharp aroma of
sulfur when first opened. Let it blow off and you’ll
find a rather elegant white, with lightly sweet pear
fruit, a hint of toast and excellent balance. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
86
Erath 2013 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Perfectly
serviceable, yet simple and plain, this
straightforward wine has crisp apple and pear fruit,
with a finish that turns slightly bitter. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
85
Oak Knoll 2013 Sheppard Vineyard Pinot Gris
(Willamette Valley). This starts to fall flat
even as it hits the mouth. It’s got some puckery citrus and apple fruit, then rolls into a thin finish. The
aftertaste shows some slightly bitter skin flavors.
—P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $14
84
Black Box 2013 Red Elegance (California).
Ripe tomato, prune and herb flavors come
with some sweetness and a soft, full texture. Still,
it has enough tannin and acidity to keep it lively on
the finish. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $25/3 L
84
Zagarrón 2013 Hacienda Zargón Sauvignon
Blanc (La Mancha). This is a touch mealy on
the nose, with ripe stone-fruit and melon aromas. A
juicy, direct palate follows, with citrus and greenfruit flavors that finish quick and clean. Legacy
Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $8
CORRECTION
On page 78 of the Best of Year 2014 issue, we incorrectly
identified Trumer Pils as originating in Germany. The beer
originated in Austria.
CHARDONNAY
96
Domaine Serene 2011 Récolte Chardonnay
(Dundee Hills). This is the winery’s top
Chardonnay, kept in bottle an extra year prior to
release. Even in a challenging vintage such as 2011
it’s a huge wine with astonishing concentration and
power. The fruit has coiled intensity—so potent that
it seems ready to burst wide open. Ripe apple and
peach, olive oil, toasted almonds and plenty of new
oak flavors abound. It’s a jaw-dropper, and may be
drunk now through 2022. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $125
96
Ponzi 2012 Aurora Vineyard Chardonnay
(Willamette Valley). For full review see page
3. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $60
95
The Eyrie Vineyards 2012 Original Vines Reserve Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Sourced
from the original 1965 planting, this wine demands
your patience and full attention. A deep straw,
slightly tawny hue, it opens with lightly spicy, nuanced threads of mint, hay, olive oil, green banana
and almond. It seems almost ephemeral, but with
some hours of breathing time it opens into a fullbodied, dense and compelling wine with the extra
Domaine Serene 2012 Côte Sud Vineyard
Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Five different
Dijon clones go into this barrel-fermented wine. It
starts out tightly wound, well-defined with a mineral base under ripe flavors of caramel apple. The
crisp, razor-sharp acidity lets the fresh apple fruit
shine through, wreathed in notes of flint and smoke
and finished with pretty barrel toast. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $75
93
Domaine Serene 2012 Clos du Lune Vineyard
Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Showing more
toast than butter, this is a firm, concisely knit and
dense wine. Very ripe flavors of apple and peach are
wrapped in a frame of toasty oak and caramel. Decadent and delicious, it rewards some extra breathing
time and can be cellared 2021–2023. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $70
93
Domaine Serene 2012 Clos du Soleil Vineyard
Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Scents of buttered popcorn and oiled nuts ride over a rich midpalate with ripe kiwi, melon and apple fruits. The
barrel fermentation brings a wealth of toast and
butter flavors, and the length of the finish is superb.
—P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $75
93
Ponzi 2012 Avellana Vineyard Chardonnay
(Willamette Valley). This Ponzi-owned vineyard is in the Chehalem Mountains AVA (but not
listed as such). It’s bright and tense, with coiled energy and flavors that do need some hours to breathe
open. Poached pear, lemon curd and caramel apple
are in the mix. At first a little hot in the finish, it
smoothes out and turns into a buttery gem. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $60
92
Domaine Serene 2012 Evenstad Reserve
Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). This reserve is
actually one of the winery’s less expensive Chardonnays. It’s full, fruity and forward, with a lush mix
of pineapple, peaches and tropical fruits, buttressed
with juicy acids and highlights of toasted nuts.
Thoroughly delicious, and ready for immediate enjoyment. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
92
The Eyrie Vineyards 2013 Estate Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). Spicy pear and apple
fruit is at the core, with suggestions of green pineapple, mint and lemon verbena. The subtle herbs
and citrus components are layered throughout, and
the structure favors long term cellaring. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $27
91
Omero 2012 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley).
Ripe flavors suggest vanilla banana custard,
along with sweet apple and smooth caramel. Some
WINEMAG.COM | 17
BUYINGGUIDE
time spent in French oak brings up a finish with
highlights of toasted nuts. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $38
91
WillaKenzie Estate 2011 Clos Marco Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Clos Marco pays
tribute to the late, much-loved winery dog, and a
lovely memorial bottle it is. All stainless-fermented
and aged, it’s loaded with tangy apple fruit and vivid
acidity. Pineapple and citrus fruit provide additional accents, with a bright, concentrated, lengthy finish. Put this one away for a few years and you might
be surprised how good it will be. Cellar Selection.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
90
Carabella 2012 Dijon 76 Estate Chardonnay (Chehalem Mountains). Tightly wound
and sculpted fruit anchors an appealing Chardonnay with ample influence from barrel aging. In this
excellent, fruit-forward vintage, plenty of weight
characterizes the core apple flavors, which are
wrapped in a lush coating of toast, butter pecan and
nougat. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $30
90
David Hill 2012 Estate Reserve Chardonnay
(Willamette Valley). Forward and aromatic,
this opens with a floral/vanilla component, married
to a caramel apple core. The wine spent 18 months
in neutral oak, softening and rounding it out. It’s got
some buttered nut flavors but nothing overdone,
and it is absolutely drinking at its best already. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $20
89
Omero 2012 Extended Tirage Chardonnay
(Willamette Valley). The first impression of
this low abv bottling is that it is a bit dilute, with
tart apple and lemon flavors dominating. With additional airing, it does expand and soften up the
sharp edges, pulling the oak frame into focus and
laying in notes of vanilla wafer and toasted grain.
—P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $58
88
Chehalem 2012 Ian’s Reserve Stoller Vineyards Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). One-third
new and one-third once-used oak barrels bring generous flavors of toast and buttered popcorn into focus. The tightly wound fruit needs some breathing
time to come forward, with a nice mix of melon and
apple. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $40
88
Iris Vineyards 2013 After Dinner Chardonnay
(Oregon). The residual sugar is not indicated, but this is not a super-sweet dessert wine; it falls
more into the off-dry camp. A mix of orange, peach
and apricot fruit, slightly candied, it has buoyant
acidity and a toasty finish from nine months in all
new French oak. Foie gras anyone? —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $24/375 ml
87
A Blooming Hill Vineyard 2013 Chardonnay
(Chehalem Mountains). A whiff of vitamin
pill, vanilla and citrus rind leads to a fresh, light
wine with crisp apple fruit and a nice touch of honeycomb. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
87
Chehalem 2013 INOX Unoaked Chardonnay
(Willamette Valley). Done entirely in stainless, this offers crisp, clean green apple fruit flavor,
with suggestions of pear, ginger and a dash of sweet
spice. It’s pleasant, just a bit dilute, and ready for
immediate enjoyment. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
87
Roots 2012 Fairsing Vineyard Chardonnay
(Yamhill-Carlton District). A subtle wine,
with delicate, lightly buttery flavors of apple and
peach. It gains complexity as it breathes, and rewards your attention with a medium-long finish.
—P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $35
PINOT BLANC
92
The Eyrie Vineyards 2013 Pinot Blanc
(Dundee Hills). An immaculate wine, showcasing the grace and elegance of which this variety
is capable. It’s a delicate, perfectly balanced mix of
green fruits—apple, gooseberry—fresh herbs and
a crisp bite of celery. It’s just rounded off enough
to warm up the acidity and provide a hint of white
peach as it rolls through an extended and detailed
abv: 12.5%
Price: $21
91
David Hill 2013 Estate Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley). This cool-climate wine offers
relatively low alcohol and a delicate, mineral-driven
structure. A light floral note opens into a complex,
invigorating palate, mixing honeysuckle, beeswax,
apple and wet stone. It comes from original, ownrooted, 1965 plantings according to the winery. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 11%
Price: $22
90
Apolloni 2013 Pinot Blanc (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 9. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
90
WillaKenzie Estate 2013 Pinot Blanc (Yamhill-Carlton District). The vintage conditions led to a sharply delineated, acid-driven Pinot
Blanc in 2013. Tart with lip-smacking flavors of
gooseberry, lime and celery, it also features grace
notes of fresh herb. The strong focus and tight persistence make this one to enjoy over through 2020.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
87
Erath 2013 Pinot Blanc (Oregon). At first aromatic with fresh pear and toasted hazelnuts,
this promises more than it delivers. Simple, clean
fruit flavors emphasize apple and pear, and the finish comes on quickly, with a hard edge and a whiff
of plastic. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
RIESLING
94
David Hill 2013 Estate Riesling (Willamette
Valley). A gorgeous, rich and aromatic Riesling, this is a tribute to the expressive dimensions
that old vines can provide (these were planted in
1965). Ripe, lush citrus fruits, tangerine, spicy pekoe tea and hints of tropical fruit all come into play.
It’s a pure, lengthy, utterly delicious wine offering
excellent value. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 11.9%
Price: $18
89
Roots 2012 Hillside Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Gorge). Yeasty and fragrant with
a fresh, wheat beer aspect, this delicate Riesling
captures the gentle elegance of the grape’s aromatics and mouthfeel. There’s a nice mix of lemon tea,
honey and mineral components, all in a low-alcohol
but still quite dry style. —P.G.
abv: 11.8%
Price: $15
88
Chehalem 2013 Corral Creek Vineyards Riesling (Chehalem Mountains). Though generally done in a dry style, the Corral Creek is rarely if
ever this tart, especially with alcohol so low. Acidic
and bright, the fruit centers on green apples, lightly
spiced. —P.G.
abv: 10.2%
Price: $29
88
Chehalem 2013 Ridegcrest Vineyards Wind
Ridge Block Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). Tart
apple and citrus flavors abound, with suggestions of
both flesh and skin. The residual sugar is 11 g/L but
does not show as detectable sweetness. Refreshing,
tangy and finishing with a clear minerality, this is
Riesling on the green side of ripeness. —P.G.
abv: 10.9%
Price: $29
88
Firesteed 2010 Riesling (Oregon). For full
abv: 11.4%
Price: $13
87
Chehalem 2013 Three Vineyard Riesling (Willamette Valley). As with all the 2013 white
wines from Chehalem, the alcohol is way down
and the acids up in this blend of the three estate
vineyards. All-stainless fermented, it’s quite tart
with green apple and grapefruit flavors dominating.
—P.G.
abv: 10%
Price: $22
86
Coeur de Terre 2012 Dry Riesling (McMinnville). This low abv, dry style wine does
not seem to have reached optimal ripeness. It’s pungent with pine tar, and tastes quite tart and lemony.
The acids dominate, which suggests that it might
best be served along with steamer clams or fresh
oysters. —P.G.
abv: 12.1%
Price: $19
OTHER WHITE WINES
96
Cayuse 2012 Cailloux Vineyard Viognier
(Walla Walla Valley). A brilliant effort, this
belongs right up there with the very best New World
Viogniers. White flowers, lemon curd and a lush mix
of citrus aromas show immense concentration right
from the start. Both precise and dense, the scents
and flavors flow through into a tightly wound,
mineral-soaked finish, bright with citrus and apricot fruit. The length and concentration are simply
spectacular. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $70
92
Cowhorn 2013 Marsanne-Roussanne (Applegate Valley). A vibrantly aromatic wine
with notes of apricot, toast, nutty spices and cream
displaying both detail and complexity. The palate
is full-bodied yet still shows restraint with fruit
and smoky flavors that keep the interest level high
through the lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $35
sweet tropical fruit flavors but the concentration
doesn’t seem there. —S.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
Cowhorn 2013 Viognier (Applegate Valley).
Aged just three months in French oak (28%
new), the wine focuses on the fruit, with rich notes
of apricot, pear and tangerine. It’s full-bodied with
sweet fruit flavors and a long, lingering, exquisitely
fruit-filled finish. Editors’ Choice. —S.S.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
91
Chehalem 2013 Ridgecrest Vineyards Grüner
Veltliner (Ribbon Ridge). Lighter and lower
in alcohol than the previous vintage, this takes the
flavors up a notch, with a leesy, textural, refreshing mouthfeel. Grapefruit and lime rind are among
the highlights, setting up a tart, dry, mineral-soaked
abv: 12.8%
Price: $24
91
Cowhorn 2013 Spiral 36 (Applegate Valley). A
blend of near-equal parts Viognier, Marsanne
and Roussanne, this is aromatic with notes of corn
on the cob, dried apricot and tangerine. The palate is full-bodied with sweet apricot flavors and a
smoky finish (20% new French oak). —S.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
88
Roots 2012 Deux Vert Vineyard Melon (Yamhill-Carlton District). At first quite tart, almost sour, with a strong yeasty aroma, this unusual
wine can seem simple and dilute. Give it several
hours to open up and it rewards you with delicate
yet persistent flavors of citrus and stone, with refreshing acidity. Such low-alcohol white wines can
be a delight with shellfish and other appetizers.
—P.G.
abv: 11.8%
Price: $15
85
Valley View 2012 Anna Marie Sauvignon
Blanc (Rogue Valley). Stainless-steel fermented and aged, it’s lightly aromatic with notes of
herbs and kiwi. The palate is medium-bodied with
95
SPARKLING WINES
91
Sokol Blosser NV Sparkling Rosé of Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). Such a tiny amount produced, yet the quality makes you wish for much,
much more. The pale coppery rosé is wonderfully
rich and toasty, with lovely raspberry and cherry
fruit, a fine bead plus excellent concentration and
finesse. —P.G.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $60
88
Chehalem 2013 Ridgecrest Vineyards Sext
Riesling (Ribbon Ridge). Returning to
Moscato-levels of sweetness and alcohol, this lowpressure bubbly retains bracing minerality as well.
It’s juicy and light, a perfect apéritif or mixer for
Sunday morning mimosas. —P.G.
abv: 7%
Price: $24
92
ROSÉS
90
Cória 2013 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). For full review see page 10. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 11.3%
Price: $20
91
Cayuse 2012 Edith Armada Vineyard Grenache
Rosé (Walla Walla Valley). Made from grapes
picked early specifically for rosé, this bone-dry wine
keeps alcohol low and flavors rich. A pale copper
hue, it offers flavors that mimic a cava, without the
bubbles. Racy minerality underscores a juicy, fruitdriven palate of lemon, lime and orange. A hint of
coffee and crème brulée pokes through the refreshing finish. —P.G.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $45
91
Domaine Serene NV R Dry Rosé (Oregon). This
nonvintage rosé, modeled after a Bandol, is
a blend of grapes and vintages, yet retains superb
freshness and offers unusual complexity. Rich and
tart, with a creamy strawberry core, it also shows
sandalwood highlights and a hint of barrel toast.
Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
PINOT NOIR
95
puts a wisp of smoke through the engaging finish.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $68
Brick House 2012 Evelyn’s Pinot Noir (Ribbon
Ridge). Evelyn’s is the winery’s reserve bottling. From first sniff to last sip it’s a magical wine,
conveying the richness and complexity that Biodynamic farming can convey. Cherries, cut tobacco,
iron filings and dark chocolate flavors swirl together
in a lush tapestry. The texture, tension and balance
are superb, and time spent in 50% new French oak
Elk Cove 2012 Roosevelt Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 3.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 14%
Price: $85
95
Ponzi 2012 Aurora Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 3.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $100
94
Brick House 2012 Cuvée du Tonnelier Pinot
Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Tight and tannic when
first opened, this 100% Pommard clone Pinot ultimately bursts open with black cherry and cassis
fruit, a strong streak of cola, and notes of moist
earth, chocolate and espresso. A firm through-line
carries it into a dense finish, which has the authority and power to reward another decade at least of
cellar time. Drink now through 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $45
94
Elk Cove 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Sourced from select barrels
drawn from five estate vineyards, the reserve spent
10 months in oak. It is only made in exceptional
years, and 2012 was certainly among the best in
memory. Berry, cherry and toast components are
here in full measure, with a sumptuous mocha-infused finish. Still young, this wine will show best
with aeration, or tuck it away for some extra bottle
age. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $100
94
Ponzi 2012 Abetina 2 Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). Deep, dark and instantly compelling, this powerful wine features black cherry and
cassis fruit adorned with clove, citrus, cardamom,
nougat and mocha. The chewy tannins and overall
tightness suggest that further cellaring will continue to improve it. Drink 2016 through 2030. Cellar
Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $100
94
Sokol Blosser 2012 Big Tree Block Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). Among a half-dozen Pinots
released by the winery in 2012, this seems to have
the most stuffing. Dense black cherry, cassis, and
dark chocolate flavors carry highlights of earth,
iron, graphite and tar. It’s expressive, long and compact, with aging potential through at least 2025.
Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
93
Domaine Serene 2011 Grace Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). This lovely, evocative
wine celebrates the finesse that characterizes the
finest Pinot Noirs. Delicate nuances of bramble,
cinnamon, tar and nougat wrap around and weave
through a core of black cherry fruit. Ample acidity
WINEMAG.COM | 19
BUYINGGUIDE
ensures much life ahead, through at least 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $175
93
Ponzi 2012 Vigneto Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). Sourced entirely from the Gemini
vineyard, this cuvée is dedicated to a grower whose
fruit was especially noteworthy in the given vintage.
Aromatic with intense components of citrus, pine
needle, pepper and coriander, this orchestrates all
those accents around brambly berry fruits. Tannins
are stiff and substantial, and the finishing flavors of
dark chocolate and espresso leave you reaching for
the next glass. Drink now through 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $75
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Scott Paul 2012 Audrey Pinot Noir (Dundee
Hills). The excellent Maresh vineyard is the
source of these grapes. Lovely aromas of leaf and
cherry open into a wine generous with pretty flavors of black raspberry and cherry. The tannins are
still a little stiff, with black tea, green tobacco, and a
definite dryness. Give this extra breathing time and
it reveals some additional complexity. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $83
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Brick House 2012 Les Dijonnais Pinot Noir
(Ribbon Ridge). All the Brick House wines
are certified organic and Biodynamic. Les Dijonnais
spent 15 months in 30% new French oak. The opening aromas lead with fresh, lively, buoyant notes of
cherry fruit. With more exposure to air its tannins
get a bit chewy, and the wine shows impressive
strength through a long finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $52
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Carabella 2012 Inchinnan Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Inchinnan, the winery
explains, is a Scottish word that means some little
special place. Special indeed is this fruit, a threeclone estate vineyard selection. Blackberry and
black cherry dappled with cinnamon is at the heart
of it, supported with balanced natural acidity. A bit
darker in color and flavor than the estate bottling,
it’s immediately enjoyable and structured for medium-term cellaring. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $54
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Domaine Serene 2011 Jerusalem Hill Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). Consistent with
the winery’s excellent lineup of 2011’s, this is an
elegant wine, precisely sculpted with plenty of underlying acidity. Cherry, cola and earth components
meld seamlessly, and the new oak aging shows admirable restraint, allowing the fruit to shine. As
with a number of top wines from the vintage, this
should age gracefully now through the mid-2020s.
Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $90
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Domaine Serene 2011 Two Barns Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Dark fruits, notably blackberry and black cherry, are hallmarks of
this low-elevation, 35-acre site. Impeccable balance
characterizes Domaine Serene Pinots, this being no
exception, but here there is a bit more juicy power,
more earthy punch to the tannins, and a nice finishing touch of chocolate. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $90
ing wine. Dig in—you’ll find plenty of black cherry
and cassis fruit, streaked with iron, espresso and
licorice. The texture and length add more subtlety,
with a delicate hint of sandalwood at the very end.
—P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
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Gypsy Dancer 2010 Tribute Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Extra time in bottle has
proved rewarding for this varietally pure, aromatic,
even pungent wine. A complex bouquet yields rose
petals, sweet spices, coffee and cedar, and flavors
follow through a subtle, penetrating finish. The
spicy, brambly berry fruit carries a hint of brine.
Drink now through 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $65
Penner-Ash 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). For full review see page 7. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
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Ponzi 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). This reserve bottling spent 20
months in 50% new French oak. Spicy and complex, it deftly moves from pretty scents of lavender
and blueberry into a firmly knit wine nuanced with
nutmeg, star anise, ginger, citrus and tobacco. Drink
now through 2020. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $60
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Sokol Blosser 2012 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills).
The least-expensive designate is also one of
Sokol Blosser’s best in 2012. After opening with a
whiff of funk supported with a flinty hint of clay, it
moves into a complex palate with both grip and definition. The acid component brings flavors of sweet
citrus and orange peel, while the overall structure
and pretty red fruits suggest that this is a wine to
cellar. Drink now through 2024. Cellar Selection.
—P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $38
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WillaKenzie Estate 2012 Jory Hills Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Showing exceptional density and concentrated black cherry and
cassis fruit, this young wine opens to reveal further
details of earth, iron and espresso. Muscular and
sturdy, it puts the fruit of a top-notch vintage into
play with the condensed power of a cellar-worthy
wine. Enjoy after 2020. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
Chehalem 2012 Ridgecrest Vineyards Reserve
Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Dark, tart, laced
with licorice, earth and tar, this is a standout among
the winery’s 2012 Pinots. Black cherry and cassis
fruit anchors a substantial, mouthfilling, and quite
tannic wine, with medium-term aging potential.
Drink now through 2020. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
Domaine Serene 2011 Côte Sud Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). This comes from the oldest estate vineyard, now reaching full maturity. Tart
citrus flavors underscore pretty strawberry, drifting
into a hint of well-ripened preserves. There’s a light
touch with the new oak, keeping the wine in perfect
balance. Drink now through 2020. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $85
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Domaine Serene 2011 Evenstad Reserve Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). Light and elegantly
crafted, this iconic release is the textbook example
of well-made cool-vintage Oregon Pinot Noir. It’s
aromatic, floral and sillky. The tangy berry fruit is
clean and ripe, though definitely on the lighter side.
Pretty berry and cherry flavors are set against tart
acids, with just a touch of milk chocolate from barrel aging. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $65
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Domaine Serene 2011 Winery Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). Forward and nicely
rounded off, this brings spicy cherry and cranberry
fruit front and center. There are well-integrated
streaks of herb, a dash of stem, and a dusting of
white pepper. Give it an hour or two to breathe, or
better yet, decant before drinking. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $85
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Ponzi 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For
full review see page 9.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $40
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WillaKenzie Estate 2012 Kiana Pinot Noir
(Yamhill-Carlton District). A light, pretty
rose color, this comes out with a burst of raspberries and roses, highlighted with a lick of chocolate.
The back end shows some phenolic punch, putting
a tight wrap on an elegant wine with the ability to
improve through 2020 at least. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
Roots 2012 Racine Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton
District). The winery’s reserve bottling, this
is named for the Wisconsin town from which the
owners migrated. Coincidently, Racine also translates to roots in French. Cherry, mocha and toast
scents and rich complementary flavors explode
from the glass. This is by far the richest and deepest
wine from among the winery’s 2012 Pinots. Lovely
fruit and a streak of iron give it a strong, grippy finish. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
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Carabella 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem
Mountains). This estate-grown Pinot Noir
artfully blends seven different clones, capturing the
nuances of each, and melding them into a fascinat-
Scott Paul 2012 La Paulée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Pretty scents of rosewater,
raspberries and cherries introduce this light and
pleasing wine. It carries some of the charm of a good
strawberry soda, with forward fruit and a delicate
frame. That said, it is not just a simple fruity wine,
and gains weight and complexity as it breathes. Give
it time to show you all it has. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $39
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Scott Paul 2012 Pre Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills).
From the acclaimed Nysa vineyard, this elegant wine offers sniffs of fresh tobacco plus plum
and cherry fruit. There’s a touch of espresso and
some of the minerality typical of the vineyard. In
previous vintages this same wine was labeled as Les
Gourmandises or (in 2011) The Long Run. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $48
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Scott Paul 2012 Quatre Journaux Pinot Noir
(Chehalem Mountains). Journaux, the winery
notes, is an old Burgundian term for the amount of
land a person could plow by horse in a single day.
The Azana vineyard is the source for the fruit, and
is about four journaux in size. It brings flavors of
strawberry candy, raspberry soda, and a bit of Dr
Pepper. At first a forward, fruity, charming wine, it
turns brambly and herbal in the well-balanced finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $70
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Sokol Blosser 2012 Orchard Block Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). Purple plum and spicy cherry fruits hold down the center here, making this a
forward, easy-drinking wine of medium weight and
length. It’s quite expressive of the vintage, which offers lovely ripe fruit first and foremost. Drink this
while you let some of the tighter selections glean a
bit of bottle age. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
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Sokol Blosser 2012 Peach Tree Block Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). The Peach Tree cuvée actually
carries a whiff of peaches—possibly the power of
suggestion. Its strawberry fruit includes an herbal
component, more like a wine from the Eola Hills
than Dundee. Overall structure is fine, and aging in
42% new oak puts some toasted coconut into the
finish. This has the balance and persistence to age
nicely through 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $70
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WillaKenzie Estate 2012 Aliette Pinot Noir
(Yamhill-Carlton District). This selection is
from the winery’s first planted vineyard, now nearing 20 years of age. It’s all Pommard clone, offering a
burst of pretty cherry fruit backed with stiff tannins
and a streak of iron. Still showing some sharp edges,
it’s just out of 15 months in 50% new oak, and will
benefit from aerating or further bottle age. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
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WillaKenzie Estate 2012 Pierre Léon Pinot
Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Built with a
mix of clones from the estate vineyards, this tart,
tight, still young and stiff wine delivers black fruits
cloaked in pepper, espresso and dark chocolate. At
this age it opens rather grudgingly, and will reward
your patience. Decant or tuck it away for a few
years. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
red licorice, it fades gently into a finish tinged with
flavors of clay. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
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Z’IVO 2010 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills).
Spicy and focused, this has pinpoint flavors
of lightly candied cranberry, orange peel, brambly
thistle and a touch of mushroom. It tastes much
better than that may sound, but the range and complexity are what elevates it above many of its peers.
If any of your holiday fare features cranberry sauce,
this is the wine to choose. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $40
Domaine Serene 2011 Yamhill Cuvée Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). The widely available Yamhill Cuvée is bright and polished, showing
a tangy mix of cranberry and strawberry fruit. It’s
built with precision, accenting the crisp fruit with
streaks of lemon, orange and grapefruit. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
King Estate 2011 Old School Vineyards Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). Classy and focused, this elegant effort features sharp citrus and
raspberry flavors, in a tight, vertical, fruit-driven
style. Given its depth and tangy acidity, it seems
a good candidate for some additional bottle age,
though not long term cellaring. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
Knudsen 2012 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills).
This is the first vintage made by the vineyard owners in 25 years, a welcome return for
one of the founding families of Oregon viticulture.
Strawberries and raspberries, tart and spicy, anchor
an elegant and interesting young wine. The finish
continues clean and well-defined. Don’t look for a
blockbuster style; rather it’s more delicate and refined. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
Omero 2012 Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge).
Fragrances of plum, black cherry and sassafras come up quickly, followed with cherry candy
backed with tart acidity. The palate is nicely layered
and persistent, and the wine gains complexity as it
breathes. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $38
Roots 2012 Fairsing Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Yamhill-Carlton District). The nose hints at
orange peel, muted berry and sassafras. It’s musky,
with soft cherry fruit wrapped in light baking spices. It’s drinking quite nicely, and should be enjoyed
over the next couple of years. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $40
Sokol Blosser 2012 Goosepen Block Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). Different vintages favor different sites, and this Goosepen Block offering, though perfectly made, is not quite as dense the
other vintage offerings from Sokol Blosser. A wash
of milk chocolate surrounds raspberry and cherry
fruit. Smooth and supple, with a streak of cola and
Apolloni 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Just two barrels—both new
French oak—were selected for this reserve bottling.
There’s a bit more concentration here than in the
estate Pinot, with cranberry and cherry fruit, balancing acidity and tannins that show flavors of
black tea. A whiff and taste of toast adds some zip
to the finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
Chehalem 2012 Ridgecrest Vineyards Pinot
Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Dark, ripe and juicy,
this showcases the exceptional 2012 vintage with
plum and black cherry fruit. That said, there is more
than a slight hint of earth and stem in the tannins,
and the wine is slow to open. Additional bottle age
and/or vigorous aeration are recommended. —P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $50
Chehalem 2012 Ridgecrest Vineyards Wind
Ridge Block Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Black
fruits—raspberry, cherry and plum—mingle with
clean earth, cinnamon and chocolate. The wine has
grip and power, though currently some excess acidity pokes through the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $50
David Hill 2011 Estate BlackJack Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). BlackJack is sourced
from the oldest block in the vineyard, planted in
1965. Complex, old-vine details bring a brambly
note to strawberry and cherry fruit, along with citrus, sassafras and iron. There’s an earthy, lightly
roasted or charred note also, likely from the barrels.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
Erath 2012 Estate Selection Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a soft, forward, floral and fruity wine that seems to have had all its
edges sanded smooth. Nothing wrong with that—
it drinks nicely right out of the bottle, with black
cherry fruit annotated with scents of violets, smoke
and char. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $34
Erath 2012 Oregon Pinot Noir (Oregon). This
is a fine budget bottle, with an aromatic mix
of tart berry and pine needle. A streak of chocolate
surrounds a supple, smooth wine that carries its
tangy fruit through a satisfying finish, with just a
suggestion of tanned leather. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
Gypsy Dancer 2012 Legacy Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Well constructed, elegant
and airy, this offers scents of raspberries, sour cherries and pine needles. A forest-floor set of flavors
underlies the trim fruit, good structure and the balance to develop further in bottle. The inscription—
WINEMAG.COM | 21
BUYINGGUIDE
unfined, unfiltered and un-inoculated—indicates
only native yeast was used. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
layers of flavors to the core of black cherry, with
decadent accents of cola and coffee. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
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King Estate 2011 Backbone Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Fragrant and soft, this sends
up a chocolaty mix of strawberry and raspberry
fruit scents and flavors. It’s a barrel selection from
a variety of vineyards, and is young enough to show
a stiff, somewhat herbal edge to the tannins. Give
it an hour or two in a decanter for best drinking.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
Omero 2012 Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills).
Lean but well-structured, this melds strawberry and raspberry fruit to fresh herbs and hints of
violets. The tannins are on the astringent side, but
the wine has the precision and balance to age gracefully 2021–2023. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
Apolloni 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). Interesting animal notes permeate
the aromas, leading into an herbal midpalate with
a well-balanced mix of light berry fruit, tart acids,
and some leafy characteristics. Aged in French oak,
with no indication of what percentage was new, the
finish shows just a hint of chocolate. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30
Coeur de Terre 2012 Renelle’s Block Reserve
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). From the
oldest planting in the estate (1999) this is a forward, loose-knit wine, with broad flavors of black
cherry and cola. The streak of cola, often a component of Willamette Valley Pinot, really stands out
here. Drink this soon, while it retains its youthful
exuberance. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
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Roots 2012 Roots Estate Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Citrus and
chocolate come up from the glass, wrapped together
like chocolate-covered orange peel. The core fruit is
tangy raspberry, spicy and focused. This drinks like
a young wine in terms of both vineyard and bottle
age. It should continue to improve with a bit of cellar time. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $40
Roots 2012 Saffron Fields Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). Maybe it’s
the name, but there does seem to be a hint of saffron
in the lovely bouquet. Finesse and complexity are
the stated goals of the winery, expressed beautifully
here in an elegant mix of black cherry, mocha and
coffee flavors. The mouthfeel, texture, and smooth
finish make it a pleasure to drink. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
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Sokol Blosser 2012 Estate Cuvée Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). Tart with flavors of strawberry and raspberry, this opens slowly, seeming to
be a bit shallow at first. Give it some extra hours to
breathe and it puts on more flesh, though the acids
stick out. More bottle age should help it to smooth
out. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
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WillaKenzie Estate 2013 Gisèle Pinot Noir
(Yamhill-Carlton District). WillaKenzie’s
most affordable estate-grown Pinot, this opens with
a truly lovely bouquet of rose petals, raspberries
and dusty chocolate. Soft and smooth upon entry,
it’s a light, detailed and sophisticated vineyard
blend that spent 10 months in 20% new oak. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Winter’s Hill 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). It’s difficult to discern what
elevates this to reserve level, other than it was a
barrel selection prior to bottling. The oak aging adds
Coeur de Terre 2012 Sarah Jane’s Block Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Much
along the lines of the other three block reserves,
this has forward, fruity flavors of black cherry and a
big wash of cola. There’s a light hint of pepper; it’s
drinking nicely and best enjoyed in the near term.
—P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
David Hill 2011 Winemakers Cuvée Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). A cool year and a
northern Willamette valley location have produced
a wine with cranberry more than cherry fruit.
There’s a streak of root beer, coffee and charcoal.
The roasted barrel flavors take over from the fruit,
which turns quite tart and tannic. Pair this with an
oily, cold-water fish such as salmon, and it should
rock. —P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $50
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Erath 2011 Leland Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). Forward and quite light (the vintage was a cool one), this offers fruit flavors of
pomegranate and tart berry. There is a generous
swath of chocolate wrapping it, creating a rather
silky yet simple, straightforward wine best enjoyed
in the near term. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
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Erath 2011 Prince Hill Pinot Noir (Dundee
Hills). Medium rose in color, with a hint
of orange already, this dry, tart and spicy vineyard
selection offers tart raspberry fruit and a smooth,
chocolaty finish. It does not seem to have the depth
for cellaring, but drinks nicely at the moment. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
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Iris Vineyards 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Oregon). Oaky, spicy and tannic, this is showing some sharp edges around moderately ripe plum
and cherry fruit. It’s solid and substantial, a bit
blocky, and currently showing more barrel influ-
ence than fruit. All estate fruit, 40% new French
oak. Additional bottle age might improve the score.
—P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $36
Omero 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).
Vibrant and young, this offers tart cranberry and raspberry fruit set against baking spice
highlights. It spent 10 months in French oak, mostly
neutral, and is a clean, crisply defined wine with
plenty of life ahead. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $28
Roots 2012 49 Rows Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Chehalem Mountains). Aromatic and spicy,
this shows a pretty blackberry fruit core, along with
some root beer, smoke and espresso components.
It’s concentrated without being at all heavy, forward
and tasty with medium-term aging potential. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $40
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Roots 2012 Sheboygandy Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). The name is a play
on words combining the owners’ Wisconsin roots
and their admiration for Burgundy. Aromas suggest
a fair amount of new oak was used here, lending a
sweet and spicy aspect to the fruit flavors of strawberry and cherry. It’s smooth and accessible, perfect
for near-term enjoyment. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
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RouteStock Cellars 2013 Route 99W Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). Luisa Ponzi crafts
this rather delicate wine, with balanced flavors that
reward your attention to detail. Watermelon and
strawberries come wrapped in smooth tannins. Side
flavors of earth, clove and peppery herb add welcome complexity. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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WildStock 2013 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A new brand from Scott Paul, this
relatively value-priced wine is tight and tart, with
cranberry and black cherry fruit. The acidity juts
out a bit, though that may improve with additional
bottle age. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Winter’s Hill 2012 Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills).
Upon opening, this wine reveals strong
scents of bourbon barrel that punch through to the
top, giving it a high-toned presence with buried
fruit. Aerate it thoroughly and the black cherry and
cola components fall into place, with the new oak
accents back in proportion. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $34
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Apolloni 2012 L Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette
Valley). Moderate in scale, with an earthy set
of scents and flavors, this well-priced Pinot opens
broadly across the palate, showing fruit flavors of
cranberry and wild cherry. It’s a pleasant wine for
near-term drinking, with a hint of bitterness in the
tannins. —P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $22
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Coeur de Terre 2012 Abby’s Block Reserve
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Of the four
single-block offerings, this shows a bit more muscle
and density. But even after many hours of aeration,
it remains stubbornly tight, with drying tannins.
There is a suggestion of plastic in the residual finishing flavors. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
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Coeur de Terre 2012 Héritage Reserve Pinot
Noir (McMinnville). Tannic and chewy, this
Pinot seems to have over-reached itself. It’s built
like a Cabernet, muscular, dark, and earthy. Black
cherry fruit is cloaked in cola and dark chocolate
flavors. There’s a lot going on here, just not in the
varietal wheelhouse. —P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
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Coeur de Terre 2012 Tallulah’s Run Reserve
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Chewy and
earthy, this matches simple cherry fruit to barrel
flavors of dried wood. It seems to be moving rather
quickly into maturity, with an astringent, leafy finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
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Firesteed 2012 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Aromatically interesting, this shows the spicy side
of Pinot, touching on clove, star anise, pepper and
cinnamon. Raspberry fruit and some sharp acidity
fill out the palate, which softens in the finish while
maintaining an earthy, herbal edge. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
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Iris Vineyards 2013 Pinot Noir (Oregon).
Strongly herbal, peppery and showing more
than a hint of stem, this raspberry and root-beer
style of Pinot hits the palate a bit sharp, and does a
quick fade. —P.G.
abv: 12.3%
Price: $24
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Roots 2012 Leroy Vineyard Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Tight and tart, this wine
shows aromas of delicate roses and raspberries that
follow through on the palate. Flavors are pure and
true, somewhat simple, with a fruit-forward aspect
that suggests young vines. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $40
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Silvan Ridge 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This medium-weight Pinot Noir has
a whiff of the chicken yard among its aromas, but
the well-ripened cherry fruit at the core more than
compensates. There’s a hint of peach-skin phenolics, and the finish has enough stuffing to keep from
fading too quickly. A good sipper for the near term.
—P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
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A Blooming Hill Vineyard 2013 Pinot Noir
(Chehalem Mountains). Plum, cherry and
cola scents promise more than the wine delivers.
In the mouth it hints at rubber and turns thin and
rather sour. Give it maximum aeration and drink
2017–2018. —P.G.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $27
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Oak Knoll 2011 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This smells strongly of smoke, and
not just the sort of whiff you might get from a
well-toasted barrel. This is more like the smoke of
a campfire, and it permeates the flavors as well as
the scent of the wine. There’s a suggestion of pretty
plum underneath, along with a reductive rubbery
scent in the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Plum Hill 2012 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Barely two years after the harvest this
wine is already showing signs of early bricking. The
fruit is quickly moving into secondary flavors of
cooked plum and it shows some burnt, smoky notes
in the tannins. Drink soon. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $28
84
Plum Hill 2012 Winemaker’s Barrel Select
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Flavors are
short and the mouthfeel stiffly tannic. A burst of
cranberry and cherry fruit quickly hits some burnttoast barrel flavors, with coffee grounds lending a
bitter edge to the tannins. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
SYRAH
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Cayuse 2011 En Chamberlin Vineyard Syrah
(Walla Walla Valley). Dark and concentrated, this sends up complex aromas saturated with
tar, asphalt, ink, steel, smoke and charred barbecue.
It’s a beautiful wine, tight and textural, in perfect
balance, with superb depth, precision and elegance.
The most contemplative of a superb 2011 Cayuse
lineup, this wine above all needs your full attention.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $75
98
Cayuse 2011 En Cerise Vineyard Syrah (Walla
Walla Valley). The immediate impression is
of savory umami aromas pierced with pine needle
and sage highlights. Red and black licorice, along
with sweet cured meats, bring complexity to fruit
flavors of berry, cherry and plum. Toss in Provençal
spices, coffee grounds and the classic Cayuse earthiness that continues through a deep, firm, beautifully defined finish. Drink now through 2030. Cellar
Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $75
96
Cayuse 2011 Cailloux Vineyard Syrah (Walla
Walla Valley). Violet blossoms and orange
peel aromatics jump out, followed by scents and
flavors of lamb tartare and mixed charcuterie. Cofermented with 5% Viognier, it’s an elegant and
beautifully proportioned wine, offering ripe purple
fruits with finishing hints of baking spices and dark
chocolate. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $90
94
Horsepower 2011 The Tribe Vineyard Syrah
(Walla Walla Valley). Floral aromas and
tight raspberry fruit flavors are the first impression.
Next come notes of wild game, with blood, herb and
a bit of liver pâté. Unique, deep and yet somehow
delicate, this has impressive complexity for a vineyard’s first release. —P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $110
94
No Girls 2011 La Paciencia Vineyard Syrah
(Walla Walla Valley). The first impression
is of steak tartare, with blood and a saline, savory character. There’s a floral, violet topnote, and
streaks of black olive, orange peel, umami and brine.
Tight, toned and muscular, it’s set in a compact,
perfectly proportioned frame that requires many
hours of breathing to open fully. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65
93
Cayuse 2011 Armada Vineyard Syrah (Walla
Walla Valley). On display are the requisite
Cayuse flavors of funk, savory herb and composted
earth, with moderately ripe black fruits in the background. A whiff of pine needles and plenty of forest
floor accents complete the picture. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $90
93
Cayuse 2011 Bionic Frog Syrah (Walla Walla
Valley). Long-time admirers of this wine
may find the 2011 version a bit thin. It’s a more
subtle wine than is customary, the expressive funk
subsumed below lighter layers of peat moss, sea salt
and white chocolate. With decanting, scents of shittake mushroom, duck sauce and even chicken broth
swirl up from the glass, with black tea flavors running through the tannins. Quite good, yet somewhat
muted. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $95
89
Coeur de Terre 2012 Estate Syrah (Willamette Valley). Willamette Valley Syrahs
are rare, and here’s why. Even in a picture-perfect
vintage such as this, the abv doesn’t reach 13%.
Nonetheless, this wine merits your attention. Tart
and peppery, yet balanced and showing some depth
of flavor, it’s a marriage of umami, citrus, raspberry
and stem. High acid flavors of orange peel support
it through a sharp, focused, lightly smoky finish.
—P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $40
86
Iris Vineyards 2012 Syrah (Oregon). This
wine has a funky, chicken-yard aroma, and
sharp, spicy cranberry fruit. It fades quickly, without the depth of flavor one might wish for in a near15% abv Syrah. —P.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $24
GRENACHE
96
Cayuse 2011 Armada Vineyard God Only
Knows Grenache (Walla Walla Valley). Intensely aromatic, this carries a wealth of layered flavors consistent with past vintages. Umami, sea salt,
WINEMAG.COM | 23
BUYINGGUIDE
mineral and Provençal herbs comingle, with a rich
component of raspberry, plum and cherry compôte.
More layers appear through the finish, with orange
liqueur and a whiff of tanned leather. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $90
95
Horsepower 2011 Sur Echalas Vineyard Grenache (Walla Walla Valley). Densely planted
and labor intensive (it is actually tilled by Belgian
draft horses), the vineyard’s first releases have been
eagerly anticipated, and do not disappoint. Floral
highlights are stacked over a swirl of umami, with
subtle power and airiness. Delicate and tense, it’s
packed with brambly berry flavors, minerally acids
and fine-grained tannins. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $110
95
No Girls 2011 La Paciencia Vineyard Grenache
(Walla Walla Valley). This vineyard was
planted specifically for the No Girls project. The
wine is fresh, fragrant and intensely floral, with
a mix of rosewater and orange zest. Elegant, with
a delicate, lacy texture, the flavors are savory and
salty, braced with stiff, lightly peppery tannins.
Notes of funk and mushroom come into play as it
finishes gracefully and with unexpected length.
—P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $65
88
Cowhorn 2012 20 Grenache (Applegate Valley). A brightly aromatic wine with notes of
raspberry jam, orange peel and baking spices. It’s
tart and tangy, seeming to need some additional
time in the bottle to come into its own. —S.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
97
Cayuse 2011 Widowmaker En Chamberlin
Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla
Valley). This glorious, evocative wine calls up a rich
and sensuous catalog of scents and flavors. Black
truffle, sea salt, clean earth, fungus, strawberry,
liquid rocks, umami, tar... the words pour out with
each sniff and swallow. It’s detailed, substantial and
refined, gathering itself for a long, generous, captivating finish. Drink now through 2030. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $90
94
Cayuse 2011 Camaspelo Cabernet Sauvignon
(Walla Walla Valley). Camaspelo is mostly
Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with 20% Merlot.
The fruit shines through brightly in this cooler vintage, black cherry and plum with a saline minerality. The wine saw 40% new oak, perhaps for the
last time, as Christophe Baron believes “the barrel
is dead” and is moving to all-neutral, large format
foudres, puncheons and concrete. Soft, supple and
sensuous, this is a delicious wine drinking quite
nicely already. —P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $75
93
Cayuse 2011 The Lovers (Walla Walla Valley).
Just the second vintage for this Cab/Syrah
blend, it sets its umami-soaked fruit in a crusty,
toasty framework. Adding a splash (here 10%) of
Syrah was once known in Bordeaux as to “Hermitager” the wine, bringing color and spice into the
mix. This relatively soft Cabernet shows highlights
of orange peel, apricot, pepper and cured meat.
—P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $90
92
Beresan 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla
Walla Valley). Sourced from estate vineyards, this is aged in a mix of new and neutral
French oak. Baking spices, gingerbread, cassis,
earth, umami, soy and balsamic elements combine
in a complex, distinctive and powerful wine with
another decade of development ahead. Decant if
drinking soon, or cellar until 2025. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $29
RED BLENDS
94
Cayuse 2011 En Cerise Vineyard Flying Pig
(Walla Walla Valley). The blend on this
Claret-style red is a bit different this year—half
Merlot, 40% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet
Sauvignon. As with the other 2011 Cayuse reds, this
has a noticeable shift to floral, delicate aromas, with
the savory/funk present but somewhat muted. The
minerality under the ripe raspberry fruit gives it a
crunchy feel in the mouth, lightly dusted with fresh
herbs. The persistent finish seems to have a steel
frame supporting it. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $90
91
Beresan 2009 Stone River (Walla Walla Valley). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc ties together fruit
from the estate vineyards, noted for their cobblestones. Given extra bottle age to soften up the tannins a bit, it remains a somewhat herbal, earthy
wine with the seabreeze salinity of fruit sourced
from the sub-region known as the Rocks. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $29
89
Beresan 2010 The Buzz Yellow Jacket Vineyard Red (Walla Walla Valley). Syrah and
Cabernet Sauvignon are the principal components,
with smaller amounts of Cab Franc and Merlot,
all from one of the estate vineyards located in the
Rocks (Walla Walla’s soon-to-be newest sub-AVA).
Strongly tannic, its core of cassis fruit is anchored
in potent flavors of iron, earth and licorice. Editors’
Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $19
85
Iris Vineyards 2012 Red ONE (Oregon). Basically this is Syrah, with 20% Pinot Noir,
Chardonnay and Muscat. This wine is peppery,
stemmy and brambly, with a diffuse, quick fade.
—P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
OTHER RED WINES
94
Cayuse 2011 Impulsivo En Chamberlin Vineyard Tempranillo (Walla Walla Valley). Beefy
and broad, this offers up the aromas of a rich stew,
with sweet tomato, peppery herb and game. Supple
and soft, the flavors blend seamlessly, with the accent of savory notes rather than specific fruits.
—P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $90
91
Beresan 2009 Malbec (Walla Walla Valley).
As with all Beresan reds, this tilts sharply
in the direction of dark fruits, earthy tannins, and
streaks of iron and herb. The plum and berry flavors
are framed in sappy acids, and the purity of the single-varietal wine is impressive. It’s a fine alternative
to Cabernet with that thick steak. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $29
90
Beresan 2008 Cabernet Franc (Walla Walla
Valley). Sourced from the estate Waliser
vineyard, this pure varietal wine, recently released
at six years of age, remains muscular, chewy and
densely tannic. It’s a powerful wine with dark flavors of herbs, earth, chocolate and espresso in front
of black fruit. An hour of decanting is a good idea.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $29
89
Beresan 2012 Carmenère (Walla Walla Valley). Beresan made no Carmenère in 2011,
and this new vintage is the first to be sourced from
the recently-planted Summit View vineyard. It’s
quite pretty, with forward fruit flavors of strawberry and cherry. Aging for 21 months in 20% new oak
gives it a toasty frame and puts some grip in the tannins. Drink over the next few years, while it retains
its youthful charms. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $29
89
Valley View 2011 Anna Marie Tempranillo
(Rogue Valley). An appealing wine with
notes of orange peel, citrus and red fruit. It’s medium-bodied with lively citrus flavors that display
a soft feel. —S.S.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $18
88
Silvan Ridge 2012 Tempranillo (Rogue Valley). A lightly aromatic wine with notes of
vanilla, butterscotch and red fruit. The flavors are
lighter in style, displaying a fine sense of elegance.
—S.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
87
Silvan Ridge 2012 Cabernet Franc (Rogue Valley). This 100% varietal is lightly aromatic
with notes of herbs, cherry and barrel spices. The
palate is medium-bodied with cinnamon-stick flavors, coffee tones and tart acidity. —S.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $28
85
Silvan Ridge 2012 Malbec (Rogue Valley).
Barrel notes of toast and char are at the fore
on this wine, followed by green tea and medicine
cabinet. The fruit flavors are lighter in style with
firm tannins. —S.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
palate, with flavors of sea salt, yellow flowers and a
pinch of cinnamon. —M.K.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $90
92
Wines Chardonnay (Paso Robles). For full
review see page 6.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $26
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SWEET WINES
90
Coeur de Terre 2013 Late Harvest Batch No.
03 Riesling (McMinnville). Sourced from
vines planted in the early 1970s, this dense dessert
wine is so concentrated that it’s difficult to pick out
individual flavors. Meyer lemons, peaches, apricots,
pears, papaya, pineapple and more, all on the candied side, are in the mix, supported with generous
acidity. That tension between acid and sugar is the
key here. —P.G.
abv: 10.2%
Price: $30/375 ml
91
Apolloni 2012 Dolce Vino Viognier (Oregon).
For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.3%
Price: $22/375 ml
CALIFORNIA
WHITE WINES
CHARDONNAY
Talley 2012 Oliver’s Proprietor Grown Chardonnay (Edna Valley). Though very pale in
the glass, this wine holds no shortage of interest.
Honey and roasted marcona almonds consume the
nose, and the palate blends bright citrus, lemon
curd and cinnamon, all propped up by a perfect, judicious use of oak. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $36
Babcock 2012 Top Cream Chardonnay (Sta.
Rita Hills). This appropriately named wine
hits the nose with appealing aromas of vanilla buttercream and honeyed cashews, evened out with a
limeade spritz. The palate is luscious at first, then
moves into an exotic spice rack laden with seasoning salts, chopped oregano and green garlic stalks. A
truly delicious, thoroughly intriguing wine. —M.K.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $45
94
Lafond 2012 Stainless Steele Estate Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Though it didn’t see
any oak, this wine—a sister brand of the pioneering
Santa Barbara Winery—presents rich and complex
aromas of saffron, seared lemon rinds, rosemary and
roasted chicken. It’s elegant and supple on the palate, with just enough citrus juice, salt and Italian
spices. —M.K.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $32
94
Sandhi 2012 Bentrock Chardonnay (Sta. Rita
Hills). Rajat Parr’s single-vineyard expression may be the priciest white wine in the region,
but it does impress, with aromas of lemon curd,
limestone and macadamia-nut mousse. There’s just
the right combination of oak, fruit and acid on the
Alma Rosa 2013 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara
County). Ripe aromas of passionfruit, kiwi
and nectarine rise alongside greener elements of
celery stalk, wet thyme and Granny Smith apple on
this promising early look at the vintage. The tongue
tingles throughout the sip, with flavors of crisp apple, yellow melon and crushed chalk. Buttercream
appears on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
Au Contraire 2013 Chardonnay (Russian River
Valley). For full review see page 4.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $20
Boekenoogen 2012 Estate Chardonnay
(Santa Lucia Highlands). This family-run
vineyard and winery continues to excite, delivering delicious, broadly appealing aromas of caramelized yellow pears with a cinnamon-butter glaze,
honey-laced pineapple and lemon soda. The creamy
mouthfeel carries flavors of yellow cake, lemon custard and warm peach, yet candied grapefruit peel
carves a sharp line down the middle. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $36
De Loach 2012 Hawk Hill Vineyard Chardonnay (Green Valley). Expertly balanced
between crisp acidity and concentrated, creamy
textures, this is fresh in orange blossom and justpicked Gravenstein apple, a wisp of orange peel and
other citrus bringing the wine to life. This Chardonnay has enough stuffing to age but is immensely enjoyable now. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
De Loach 2012 Ritchie Vineyard Middle Reach
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Dark
golden, this resplendent Chardonnay offers all
one would expect from the Russian River Valley’s
Middle Reach, a relatively warmer pocket of a stillplenty-cool region. Creamy and yet retaining plenty
of acidity, it offers brightness and depth simultaneously, making for a memorable wine. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
93
Gary Farrell 2012 Rochioli Vineyard Old River
Block Single Oak Puncheon Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). For full review see page 5.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $60
92
Babcock 2013 The Limit Chardonnay (Sta.
Rita Hills). Coming from the Radian Vineyard atop the Sta. Rita Hills, the appellation’s veteran Bryan Babcock delivers aromas of pineapple
cake, fresh apricot and lemon butter. The wine is
well oaked, so expect vanilla and baking spice, but
there’s a lemony acidity as well, creating a well-balanced wine. —M.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $45
Lucienne 2012 Lone Oak Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). Baked vanilla
cake, marcona almonds and pressed guava notes
make for a balanced though certainly oaken nose
from the appellation’s pioneering property. The flavors are round and peachy, with a nice arc of smoke
and butter that lead to bitter mustard and acidic
zing on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
Ram’s Gate 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros). For
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
Sandhi 2012 Rita’s Crown Chardonnay (Sta.
Rita Hills). Whiffs of just-ripe pineapple and
mellowed buttercream emerge from this pale-colored yet vibrant take on the grape, grown on vines
high above the Santa Ynez River valley. Tension and
verve powers the palate, with lemon rinds, Greek
yogurt, papaya spritzer and some slight tannins.
—M.K.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $55
Sandhi 2012 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Rajat Parr’s
take on this historic vineyard walks a tasty aromatic line between squeezed citrus, whipped vanilla
cream and brisk stone fruits. On the palate, salinity
reigns atop grilled lemon and honeydew, delivering
just flecks of vanilla. —M.K.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $55
Talley 2012 Rincon Vineyard Chardonnay (Arroyo Grande Valley). There’s diamond-like
precision on the nose, with white peach, salinity
and croissant aromas. The flavors are very even and
still unraveling, with tight lemon, apple and salt
on the front and pineapple emerging on the finish.
—M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $44
91
Cebada 2012 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Ynez
Valley). Charred oak characterizes the nose
of this wine from an estate just 12 miles from the
Pacific Ocean, but chopped dill takes the place of
overpowering butter aromas. The herbs show up on
the palate, hovering on pine needles, sandalwood
and oak toothpicks, with lime pith keeping it fresh.
—M.K.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $39
91
De Loach 2012 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay
(Green Valley). Citrus and apple tart mark
this wine that evolves to offer barrel-rich caramel
on the nose. Dark golden in color, the wine is concentrated and alive, a taste of wild Tahitian vanilla
accenting it from midpalate through to the finish.
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
WINEMAG.COM | 25
BUYINGGUIDE
91
Fritz 2012 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley).
Crème brûlée informs the creamy backbone
of an otherwise high-toned Chardonnay, the acidity
brisk on the palate without veering over the edge.
Layers of apple and pear give additional lift in between a yeasty texture. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
91
Joseph Phelps 2012 Pastorale Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). With a rich,
caramel-teased nose, this is a full-bodied and voluptuous Chardonnay that evolves in the glass to
display much greater sophistication and concentration. It finishes light and lemony, rounded out by
juicy stone fruit. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $75
91
Perry Creek 2012 Altitude 2401 Peek Vineyard
Chardonnay (El Dorado). A creamy texture
and apple pie flavors make this so rich it’s almost a
dessert. It is not actually sweet but has a full body
and lush viscosity, presumably from barrel fermentation. It shows the shaping influence that barrels
can have on heft and mouthfeel without adding
heavy oak flavors per se. Delicious! Editors’ Choice.
—J.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $20
91
Riverbench 2013 Estate Chardonnay (Santa
Maria Valley). The nose is still emerging on
this bottling by the historic estate, but nectarine,
white and yellow flowers and a touch of cantaloupe
are starting to peek out. The flavors dance between
acidity and ripeness, with green apple flesh, lemonlime peels and brisk minerality that build into a
juicy finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
90
Alta 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley). A deep
gold color combines with ripe fruit aromas
and assertive, seductive oak flavors like vanilla and
nutmeg in this full-bodied, lush-textured, unapologetic California Chardonnay. A layer of the tasty oak
flavors stays strong on the finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $26
90
B.R. Cohn 2011 Sangiacomo Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). A barrel-fermented
Chardonnay with creamy texture, this opens with
bright, prominent Meyer lemon notes before delving into softer flavors of pear and vanilla on the
midpalate. The acidity holds through to the finish,
accented by a touch of honey. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
90
Carpe Diem 2013 Chardonnay (Anderson
Valley). Unusually dry and crisp, this gives
up tangy green apple, kiwi and lemon flavors backed
by electric acidity, rather light body and a touch of
enervating astringency that’s unusual in a white
wine. Fresh oysters, please. —J.G.
abv: 12.96%
Price: $26
90
De Loach 2012 Estate Vineyard Olivet Bench
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Dark
golden in hue, this is richly pungent in Gravenstein
apple before delving into brisk clove-tinged acidity on the palate. Softly textured and refined, the
wine offers a touch of wild vanilla and honey on the
mouthwatering finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
90
De Loach 2012 OFS Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). Dark golden-yellow in color,
this is a barrel-rich and creamy Chardonnay, the
flavors a mélange of ripe apple, pear and hazelnut.
Beautiful minerality on the midpalate through the
finish keep it balanced and alive. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
90
Dry Creek Vineyard 2012 DCV Estate Block 10
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full
review see page 10.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
90
Duckhorn 2012 Chardonnay (Napa Valley).
abv: 14.1%
Price: $35
90
Gary Farrell 2012 Bacigalupi Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 11.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
90
Kalaris 2012 Lynne’s Cuvee Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). Waxy lemon and orange peel
float to the fore of this medium-bodied white that’s
overall bright and vibrant in acidity. An exotic twist
of lemongrass gives complexity and a taste of spice,
especially on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $52
90
Martin Ray 2013 Chardonnay (Russian River
Valley). Golden color and tight, bright acidity characterize this wine that tingles in balanced
flavors of pear and lemon. It also offers a touch of
orange blossom on the nose and caramel on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
90
Noble Vines 2013 446 San Bernabe Chardonnay (Monterey County). For full review
see page 14. Best Buy.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
90
Pali 2012 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Lush in toffee and rounded
layers of rich oak and crème brûlée, this sultry
Chardonnay delivers a lot of heft. The wine is crafted from a stellar vineyard and given just over a year
in 50% new French oak. The toasty notes are balanced by a taste of pear tart in custard. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
90
Sextant 2013 Chardonnay (Central Coast).
A very smooth-smelling wine, this presents pear and lychee aromas up front against a high
note background of lemon syrup and lime candies.
A vibrant citrus peel acidity powers the palate, but
manages to be creamy too, with flavors of cooked
apples and wonton skins. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
90
Shannon Ridge 2013 High Elevation Chardonnay (Lake County). It’s a grand, fullflavored wine that pulls together ripe, focused pear
and honey flavors. Buttery, spicy oak nuances beef
up the palate impression and run through the finish. For all its body and oaky spice, it doesn’t get
heavy. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $23
90
Wildhurst 2012 Reserve Chardonnay (Lake
County). Abundant flavors and fresh-tasting acidity come together in this full-bodied wine
to form a complete, complex package. Yes, there is a
vivid streak of vanilla and nutmeg from aging in all
American oak barrels but the ripe apple flavors and
underlying crispness keep those from overwhelming. Editors’ Choice. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $18
90
Wrath 2012 3 Clone Chardonnay (Monterey). An inviting nose of vanilla bean
crème brûlée introduces this clonal study from
winemaker Michael Thomas. The full-bodied palate
is reminiscent of a citrusy cream pie, with caramelized apples and other oak-related flavors lingering
in the background. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
90
Wrath 2012 Fermata Chardonnay (Monterey). Michael Thomas’ annual look at
halted maloalactic fermentation presents a fresh
nose of apple, pear and white flowers. The palate
walks a line between the sourness of yellow grapefruit with the warmth of chamomile tea, showing
crushed rock minerality as well. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
89
Greystone 2013 Chardonnay (California).
This very versatile Chardonnay finds a nice
balance between fresh fruit flavors, crisp acidity
and relatively light body. No obvious oak influence
or overripe fruit flavors cloud its appetizing, appealing and sunny personality. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
89
Michael David 2013 Chardonnay (Lodi). For
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
89
Pine Ridge 2013 Dijon Clones Chardonnay
(Carneros-Napa Valley). This is a pretty
wine in terms of floral aromatics, resplendent
shocks of orange blossom and orange peel inviting
in their exotic freshness. Lime and orange follow on
the palate, which is bristling in acidity, the finish
light and bright. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $34
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Santa Barbara Winery 2013 Chardonnay
(Santa Barbara County). The county’s first
modern winery consistently delivers value-priced
yet solid bottlings like this. The nose is pear tart
doused with a lemony sauce and flavors straddle an
intriguingly tense line between chalky minerality on
one side and citrus pith on the other. —M.K.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $17
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Ser 2013 Coastview Vineyard Chardonnay
(Monterey County). This new winery from
14-year Bonny Doon assistant Nicole Walsh presents an interesting nose, with elements of butter
brickle candy, caramel apple and crushed macadamia nuts. There is some sandy minerality and
golden apple skin grip on the palate, set against a
subdued, guava cake-like tropicality that releases
into the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
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Talley 2012 Rosemary’s Vineyard Estate
Bottled Chardonnay (Arroyo Grande Valley).
Roasted peach, cinnamon and crushed vanilla bean
make for an intriguing nose on another solid Talley bottling. It’s soft and approachable at first, but
then a bit brash and youthful, but will mellow with
some patience. Drink 2017 onward. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
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Buena Vista 2012 Jovita’s Selection Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is a hearty,
medium-bodied Chardonnay with ripe caramelized
apple on the front palate that delves into toasty oak.
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Buena Vista 2012 Natalia’s Selection Chardonnay (Green Valley). Vibrant in barrelinfluenced pear and vanilla, this has some heft to
the palate, offering a smooth mouthfeel and lingering finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Lost Canyon 2012 Ruxton Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Kaffir lime and
ripe apple skin open aromatically before soft layers
of sweet and sour interplay on the palate. Measured
in terms of oak, the finish lingers ever so slightly
with a taste of toasted caramel. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
Madonna Estate 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley). From organically grown
grapes, this wine is barrel-fermented in French oak.
On the palate, it reflects that time in barrel, conveying a mix of spicy oak, exotic Asian pear and
nutmeg. Well-integrated and light, it offers lilting
minerality. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
Matchbook 2012 The Arsonist Chardonnay
(Dunnigan Hills). For full review see page 13.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $22
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McManis 2013 Chardonnay (River Junction).
For full review see page 15. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Oak Grove 2013 Family Reserve Chardonnay
(California). For full review see page 15.
Best Buy.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $8
88
Perry Creek 2013 Chardonnay (California).
Bracing acidity, bright apple flavors and a
slightly buttery texture and finish make this fullbodied, unoaked Chardonnay interesting and refreshing. Some Chardonnays are too fruity and
oaky, but this one hangs back a bit, and this relative
austerity encourages another sip. Editors’ Choice.
—J.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $15
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Concannon 2012 Conservancy Chardonnay
(Livermore Valley). Civilized, layered and
nuanced, this blends pear, hazelnut and cream flavors with a rather light touch. A sense of sweetness
keeps the texture rather soft but doesn’t weigh down
the wine, which is relatively light bodied. —J.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
Garnet 2013 Chardonnay (Monterey County). This quality but affordable brand by
winemaker Alison Crowe delivers smoked apple,
ripe lemon and wood fire on the nose. The wine is
very evenly layered on the palate, with apple custard as the dominant flavor, and a fairly quick finish.
—M.K.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $16
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Hendry 2013 Unoaked Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). This 100% stainless-steel-fermented Chardonnay is on the money in terms of
crispness and acidity. Sour lemon and sharp wet
stone mark it most, the finish quick and clean. This
is a great food wine. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $30
Robert Mondavi 2012 Reserve Chardonnay
(Carneros-Napa Valley). Juicy in tropical
mango, coconut flake and guava, this sophisticated
Chardonnay is measured in texture and weight, the
body lean with a touch of vanilla richness on the
finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
Belle Ambiance 2012 Chardonnay (California). For full review see page 15. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Cherry Pie 2013 Cherry Tart Chardonnay (California). This presents a balanced nose of
seared pineapple and marzipan. The palate shows
off a judicious use of oak, with a clean line of acidity
cutting through brushes of stone fruit and citrus.
—M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
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Jon Nathaniel 2012 Lavender Hill Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley). Exotic tropical
highlights of guava and mango lead to a slick finish
of vanilla and oak. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
Matchbook 2012 Musqué Clone 809 Estate
Bottled Chardonnay (Dunnigan Hills). This
is not sweet but would be fine in the dessert wine
aisle, because of the exotic dried-fruit aromas and
thick texture. It has an unusually brassy color, then
the aromas are floral, honeylike and nutty, followed
by dried apricot flavors. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Midnight Cellars 2012 Estate Chardonnay
(Paso Robles). Grown on the Teresa Angela
block of the estate, this riper-style Chardonnay offers peach custard and saffron spice on the nose.
Crushed nuts and browner, aged flavors emerge
once sipped, with a yeast and orange rind sour element providing complexity. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $29
MooBuzz 2013 Chardonnay (Monterey County). Freshly skinned pink Gala apples, honeysuckle and barrel smoke describe the nose on this
well-priced, slickly packaged bottling. Apples, guava and citrus combine for a reliable, even-flavored
palate, good for everyday sipping. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Playtime 2013 Blonde Chardonnay (Lake
County). Danish pastry aromas lead to flavor
nuances of cream, ripe apple and Anjou pear. With a
smooth, soft texture and nice sense of layering, it’s
fresh, not heavy, with just enough acidity to keep it
lively. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $13
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Vinum 2013 Chardonnay (Monterey). Light
in color, this good-deal wine presents lime
sorbet and chalk on the nose. That green citrus persists on the palate alongside salt, sea shell and barrel smoke. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Wrath 2013 Ex Anima Chardonnay (Monterey). The lack of new oak on this wine
unleashes a torrent of ripe tropical fruit, including
guava, as well as ripe pear. It’s briny on the palate
yet with quite perfumed and pungent flavors, more
typical of a Rhône white than a California chardonnay. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $19
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Carmel Road 2013 Unoaked Chardonnay
(Monterey). This stainless-steel-fermented
wine offers a curiously herbal aroma of lemon verbena, with a bit of wet slate and fresh-cut honeydew. As expected, the flavors are steely at first, with
fruit flavors of ripe pear and lemon emerging in the
midpalate, winding up on a distinctly tart appleskin finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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flipflop 2012 Chardonnay (California). Herbal and appley aromas lead to soft apple and
melon flavors in this lively wine. With another sip,
a creamy texture and richness come out that add an
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BUYINGGUIDE
extra dimension of interest to this inexpensive wine
that’s hardly a flop. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $7
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HandCraft 2013 Chardonnay (California).
This ioffers ripe fruit flavors, full body,
rounded texture, and a rich frosting of vanilla and
butter notes from seasoning with oak. —J.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
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Hoopes 2012 Unoaked Hoopla Chardonnay
Chardonnay (Napa Valley). A clear, ripe
pear note rings through this medium-bodied Chardonnay from the aroma to the palate to the finish.
Even the texture is a bit thick like pear juice, though
there is some subtlety in the light vanilla and pastry
cream accents. —J.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $14
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Le Vigne 2013 Kiara Barrel Select Chardonnay (Paso Robles). The nose is a bit astringent, with barrel smoke and pineapple as the most
appealing elements. The palate is dominated by
apple, lemon custard and peach chiffon, with a bit
of oak toast. —M.K.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $23
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Matchbook 2012 Old Head Chardonnay
(Dunnigan Hills). Here is a solid, dry, rather
full-bodied Chardonnay with a subtle floral aroma. It offers savory rather than fruity flavors, rich
mouthfeel and lingering finish of baking spices. Not
a light pre-dinner drink but more of a match with
rich sauces on pasta, poultry or pork. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
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Tolosa 2013 No Oak Chardonnay (Central
Coast). This stainless-steel wine doesn’t
present much on the nose, just a little apple cider,
chalk and metal. The acidity is powerfully bright,
with citrus zest dominating the flavors, and a very
quick and tight finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $21
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Tuck Beckstoffer 2011 Semper Chardonnay
(Sonoma Coast). Muted and sour, this lemony Chardonnay from a cool vintage offers puckeringly high acidity and relatively low alcohol. —V.B.
abv: 12.3%
Price: $45
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Aver Family Vineyards 2012 Inspiration
Gap’s Crown Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma
Coast). Crisp at first, this evolves into a ripe, juicy
expression of considerable concentration and
weight. Baked apple and caramel-toffee are layered
throughout a broad-shouldered midpalate with a
hit of spice on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $45
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Flying Horse Winery 2012 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). Golden in color, this full-bodied,
oaky Chardonnay adds in 4% Sauvignon Blanc.
Aged 16 months in French oak, it offers ripe fruit
ripe that borders on confectionary. —V.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $35
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Happy Camper 2013 Chardonnay (California). For full review see page 16. Best Buy.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $9
juicy citrus. The oak is subtle and gives the finish a
lift, accenting the vanilla. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
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Lander-Jenkins 2012 Chardonnay (California). On the lean side of the flavor spectrum,
this nonetheless has an appetizing lemon and butter
character. It smells like green apples and mandarin
oranges with an earthy edge, tastes like a light lemon-custard and has texture just rich enough to stay
interesting. —J.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Sandhi 2012 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills).
The entry-level offering for Rajat Parr’s
luxury brand, this is barely noticeable on the nose,
with mere hints of melon. On the palate, it’s pleasantly Chardonnay-like but quite naked and flat in
flavor. —M.K.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $38
Schweiger 2012 Estate Bottled Chardonnay
(Spring Mountain). Muted aromatically this
wine is oaky and verging on sweet, a tad out of balance in terms of alcohol and power. The finish is
quick. —V.B.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $30
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Gen5 2012 Chardonnay (Lodi). Straightforward and thirst-quenching, this is on the
light side. Flavors suggest herb and citrus, with no
heavy oak influence or sense of sweetness to make it
cloying. It includes 6% Sémillon and 3% Viognier.
—J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $11
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Redmon 2012 Chardonnay (Carneros).
There’s an overripeness to the fruit character of this wine. A taste of baked apple and Jolly
Rancher veers into sweet territory around an otherwise straightforward bottling. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $39
SAUVIGNON BLANC
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Fiddlehead 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Happy
Canyon of Santa Barbara). For full review
see page 6.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Galerie 2013 Equitem Sauvignon Blanc
(Knights Valley). Subtle in honey and grapefruit, this is a playful wine, vibrant in acidity and
swirls of lemon zest that make it simultaneously refreshing and intriguing. Oysters are the obvious call.
Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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Galerie 2013 Naissance Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). Wild vanilla and white peach
intermingle in this substantial wine, entirely wellcomposed in round layers of tropical pineapple and
Hall 2013 T Bar T Ranch Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander Valley). With a handful of Viognier
blended in, and nine months spent in new French
oak, this wine offers deep layers of melon and peach
surrounded by a wall of floral aromatics. Delicious
and ripe, the wine holds enough structure to hold
well for another couple of years. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
Hourglass 2012 Estate Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). This beautifully brings out
and blends the crisp citrus side of the grape variety
along with a touch of riper fruit flavor that’s shaped
by oak aging. It offers classic, grassy aromas, thirstquenchingly tart flavors and very light touches of
vanilla and nutmeg. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
Joseph Phelps 2013 Estate Grown Sauvignon
Blanc (St. Helena). Floral and exotic, the tingling acidity in this wine is the standout, but it’s
equally buoyed by a mouth-filling texture adorned
by a sensation of fresh-squeezed lime and grapefruit. Balanced, this lovely Napa Valley Sauvignon
Blanc should convince one and all of the variety’s
regional merit. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Starmont 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For full review see page 9. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
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Greyscale 2011 Cuvée Blanc (Napa Valley).
Time in bottle has done nice things for this
white, a blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc (half of it
fermented in oak) and 15% Sémillon. Caramel and
vanilla dominate on the nose, with the palate crisp
in fresh-squeezed lemon and tart apple, especially
on the finish. The oak influence shows in positive
ways, adding depth and creaminess to the texture.
—V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $34
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J. Lohr 2013 Flume Crossing Sauvignon Blanc
(Arroyo Seco). This very approachable and
likable wine puts the typical dried-grass aromas
atop stone fruit scents. The palate is very herbtinged, with parsley, thyme and rosemary finding a
nice symbiosis with the riper nectarine and melon
flesh. Best Buy. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Margerum 2013 D Sauvignon Blanc (Happy
Canyon of Santa Barbara). Doug Margerum
presents a very steely nose on this wine, which
picks up some red apple and cinnamon intrigue as
well. The palate is all about finding a great tension
between bitter citrus rinds and riper fruits like
pineapple, proving both refreshing yet intellectual
at the same time. —M.K.
abv: 12.1%
Price: $36
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Round Pond 2013 Proprietary White (Rutherford). This wine combines 78% Sauvignon Blanc with 22% Viognier, an unusual mix
that works well here. Gamy and creamy, it’s a fuller
style of wine with balanced acidity and a lingering
mouthful of sweet white peach. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
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Spring Mountain Vineyard 2012 Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The
addition of 5% Sémillon proves to be the right call
in this white, a structured, spritzy glass of tree-ripened apricot and exotic lemongrass with a pleasant
heft to the palate. A twist of ripeness gives a mouthwatering, juicy finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $40
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Alta 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley).
The aroma of this sleek, dry wine made
from organic grapes is subtly herbal. Flavors suggest
crisp green apple and kiwi, and it has a crisp balance, smooth texture and very clean finish. It shows
a sophisticated restraint that will pair well with any
number of appetizers and seafood courses. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
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Clos du Val 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). There’s a distinct freshness to this
wine. Stainless-steel fermented and aged, it’s high
in acidity with enough spirit to feel almost effervescent. Lightly textured tastes range from pineapple
to papaya, a squeeze of Lemonheads candy on the
long finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
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Coquelicot 2012 Estate Sauvignon Blanc
(Santa Ynez Valley). A quirky blend of aromas arise off of this wine, from yellow melon and
honeydew to toasted pound cake and a tiny bit of
reductive skunkiness. It’s also interesting once
sipped, with yellow cupcake, crushed Italian herbs
and kiwi-driven acidity that morphs into an almostbuttery finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $32
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Hill Family Estate 2013 Tiara Sauvignon
Blanc (Napa Valley). Steely citrus marks the
opening of this wine, complemented by the addition
of 7% Sémillon. Grapefruit, ripe apple and pear
intermingle nicely before the weighty wine adds
creaminess to the midpalate and finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
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Dominican Oaks 2013 Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). Peach and lime play off each
other in this well-integrated, mineral-laden white
that’s medium bodied and bright. The finish is a
pleasant mix of lemongrass and Meyer lemon. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Duckhorn 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). The winery has made SB since 1982,
blending in Sémillon and barrel-aging in new oak to
craft a fuller style of the wine that’s well structured.
In this vintage 16% Sémillon was used and barrel
fermentation took place in 15% new oak. The result:
a light, ethereal wine abundant in tropical aromas
and flavors that’s crisp on the palate. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $29
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Franciscan 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Light and crisp, this delivers straightforward lemon, lime, grapefruit and melon around
soft, simple textures, making it both juicy and inviting. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
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J. Lohr 2013 Carol’s Vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc (St. Helena). Tropical and creamy, the
aromas thick in grapefruit and pineapple, this light,
citrus-tinged, refreshing 100% Sauvignon Blanc is
well-balanced and easy to enjoy, approachable with
some depth. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Malk 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A
punch of lemon opens up on the palate of
this medium-bodied, textured white that features
an interesting combination of bright, sour fruit and
subtle acidity. From the cooler region of Oak Knoll
District in southern Napa Valley, it offers minerality
and depth. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
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Quivira 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek
Valley). Fruity and slightly effervescent,
this is a classic California Sauvignon Blanc. Balanced and lingering in crisp melon and tropical
fruit, it provides enough creamy texture to go well
with food. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Rock Wren 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). Inviting in jasmine aromas, this
medium-bodied, 100% Sauvignon Blanc tastes of
ripe grapefruit lightly sprinkled in sugar, a nice mix
of acidity and texture with a burst of sun-ripened
Napa Valley fruit. The finish is long and satisfying.
—V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
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Vina Robles 2013 Estate Sauvignon Blanc
(Paso Robles). For full review see page 13.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $16
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Courtney Benham 2013 Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). This ethereal, crisp white is
pretty in guava and melon, approachable, easy to
enjoy and not fussy. The majority of the experience
is in the beginning and midpalate. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Michael Pozzan 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). An affordable wine that’ll please a
host of palates, this SB was fermented in stainless
steel before 40% of it spent two months aging in
new French oak. The result is a florally aromatic
wine with straightforward layers of pineapple and
vanilla and juiciness on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Quivira 2013 Fig Tree Vineyard Sauvignon
Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). Managed acidity provides the backbone to this white. A taste of
stone fruit, namely peach and apricot, figures in
most prominently. A curious herbal streak weaves
itself in and out on the palate, giving the wine an
earthy edge. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
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Flint & Steel 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). Pineapple and mango play off each
other in this tart, fleshy and fuller style of the variety, with a finish that goes on and veers ripely
sweet. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
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Heritance 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). A touch of 7% Sémillon rounds out
this Sauvignon Blanc, the fruit from both Rutherford and Yountville in the heart of the Napa Valley.
Subtle on the nose, it offers elegant layers of tart
squeezed lemon and a bite of melon. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Jamieson Ranch 2013 Silver Spur Sauvignon
Blanc (Napa Valley). A whiff of grass opens
on the nose in this wine. Stainless-steel fermented,
it’s crisp, dry and clean, with flavors of papaya and
apricot. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $28
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Kobler 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). A full-figured white dancing in pear
and apple Jolly Rancher, it features a strong taste
of oak on the palate followed by accents of lemon
zest. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $26
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Whitehall Lane 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). This full-bodied, creamy blend of
Sauvignon Blanc and 9% Sémillon is rich in tropical aromas and flavors, layered and slightly honeyed
in a finish of ripe fruit. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
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Worthy 2011 Five Clones Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). Fragrant in floral jasmine
and tropical aromas, this light, lean Sauvignon
Blanc stays fresh in the glass. —V.B.
abv: 12.7%
Price: $19
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Mason Cellars 2013 Yount Mill Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Refreshing honeydew and lime open the nose in this crisp white,
followed by a strong floral sense akin to Gewürztraminer. Flavors of fig finish things off. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $16
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Schmitz 24 Brix 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Sierra Foothills). Not at all a typical Sauvignon
Blanc, this smells like apricot and honeysuckle and
tastes like marmalade. It is dry, yet tastes like a lateharvest dessert wine. Expect a little taste adventure
here. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Calera 2013 Viognier (Central Coast). The
nose on Josh Jensen’s latest vintage is expertly restrained, suggesting honey- and lemonlaced chamomile tea. The flavors are even and nicely arced, with tart lime moving into pear flesh and
finishing with butter-scorched lemon and custard.
—M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
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Casey Flat Ranch 2013 Estate Viognier (Capay
Valley). Subtle floral aromas lead to lean fruit
and mineral flavors in this sophisticated, somewhat
reserved wine. It has just enough restraint in flavor
and crispness in balance to encourage another sip,
and another. And those sips reveal more layers of
tasty herb, Gruyère and white pepper. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
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Peachy Canyon 2013 Concrete Blanc Viognier
(Paso Robles). Tropical aromas of mango,
banana and honeysuckle lead the nose on what
first seems like a fruity wine. But then the palate
is much more restrained, clean and mineral-driven,
with steely flavors surrounding the remnant ripe
plantain-like tropicality. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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The White Knight 2013 Viognier (Clarksburg).
abv: 13.9%
Price: $12
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Arrowood 2012 Saralee’s Vineyard Viognier
(Russian River Valley). This is a deep and
concentrated white wine, ripely adorned in honey
and apricot with a streak of honeysuckle dancing
on the nose throughout. Creamy and round, it is
buoyed by a fresh sprinkling of orange blossom and
rind. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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LXV 2012 Summer Satine Viognier (Paso
Robles). This winery is aimed at the sexy
side of wine, and succeeds in this bottling, with
restrained aromas of nectarine, gunmetal, flint and
strawberry guava. Tart yellow-green flavors of apple, pear and citrus give an edge to the persistent
tropicality, which wipes up with a light vanilla finish. Perfect for fish dishes. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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McManis 2013 Viognier (River Junction). For
full review see page 14. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Black Ridge 2012 Estate Grown Viognier
(Santa Cruz Mountains). Sea-salt caramel
candies, white flowers, peach sorbet and squeezed
lime swirl into a very promising nose on this wine.
It’s lighter bodied and bouncy on the palate once
sipped, with nice minerality, but the tropical lemonade fruit may be a tad too strong for some. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $32
Bonterra 2013 Made With Organic Grapes
Viognier (Mendocino County). For full review see page 12.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
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Brecon Estate 2013 Viognier (Paso Robles).
Touches of salt and stone combine with a
subdued peach character on the nose of this wine
from a new estate in Paso Robles. The palate plays
toward the acid side of the varietal’s equation, with
lemon candy and bitterness standing up to the
white peach flesh. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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Galante 2013 Estate Bottled Viognier (Carmel Valley). Very intriguing notes of candied
ginger, ash tree pulp and salted apricot prove rather
mesmerizing on this wine. The flavors span apple,
lime and ginger-honey tea, with a slightly vanilla
finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $32
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Pomar Junction 2013 Estate Viognier (Paso
Robles). This wine from the recently approved El Pomar District is tropically perfumed
with lychee candy and a hint of passionfruit. Bouncy acidity on the front of the palate leads into red
apple fruit and citrus skin bitterness, and wipes up
with a zing on the palate. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
87
Black Ridge 2011 Estate Grown Viognier (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s Riesling-like
petrol to the nose of this wine, as well as aromas
familiar to sparkling wines like sour yeast, nectarine
and pear. It’s intriguing once sipped, tending toward
rubber and gas, with a touch of sour lemon. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $32
87
Callaway 2012 Special Selection Viognier
(Temecula Valley). The aromas are a bit
overpowering, with distinct ruby red grapefruit, lychee and cherimoya. The perfumed flavors are far
more reserved, with guava flesh and grapefruit pith
on the end. —M.K.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $22
87
Robert Hall 2013 Viognier (Paso Robles). A
pungent perfume of peach arises from this
wine, but a flinty character keeps it grounded. The
energetic peach-lemonade palate straddles the tension between acidity and rather present tannins for
a white wine. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Luke Donald 2012 Sanford & Benedict Single
Vineyard Viognier (Sta. Rita Hills). Made
by the pro golfer, the wine comes from the small
amount of Viognier in this historic vineyard. The
nose promises big, with seared ginger, stone fruit
and barrel-smoke aromas. But the palate is less
exciting, albeit with pleasant grilled nectarine and
mineral elements. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
Workman Ayer 2013 Ipso Facto Viognier
(Central Coast). A rich and perfumed honeysuckle character picks up bubblegum on the
sweet-leaning nose. It slips toward flatness on the
palate, with smoked peach and more bubblegum
saying short hellos. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $21
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Dubost 2013 Estate Viognier (Paso Robles).
The nose is imprecise, jumping from yellow
flowers to apple juice, and requiring quite an effort
to get that much. Pear skin flavors emerge on the
palate, which has a decent tartness but is washed
out a bit by the high alcohol. Still a nice table wine,
though. —M.K.
abv: 16%
Price: $40
85
Oak Grove 2013 Family Reserve Viognier
(California). For full review see page 17. Best
Buy.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $8
GRENACHE BLANC
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Morro View Winery 2013 Speizer Family Vineyard Grenache Blanc (Edna Valley). Coming
from the former owner of Domaine Alfred (now
Chamisal Vineyards) this lip-smacking wine starts
with a yeasty, Granny Smith apple nose. The flavors
are tightly acidic yet plush at the same time: bitter
apple skins mixing up with ripe pluots. —M.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $24
88
Peachy Canyon 2013 Grenache Blanc (Paso
Robles). This grape can be styled as super
acidic or tropically lush, and this version leans to
the latter. The nose is consumed with white peach
and light guava, but the tropical elements come
alive on the palate, with passionfruit and tangerine
skin laying atop a medium-low acidity. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
88
Pomar Junction 2013 Estate Grenache Blanc
(Paso Robles). Imagine sniffing barely ripe
peach and guava through their skins to understand
the brisk and subtle nose of this wine. The flavors
are also subtle, but quite refreshing, with squeezed
citrus and poached apple shining brightest. —M.K.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $25
ROUSSANNE
89
Austin Hope 2012 Hope Family Vineyard
Roussanne (Paso Robles). Favoring a nearly
amber, oxidized style of the grape, this presents a
very nutty nose with flashes of dried apricot. The
almost oily mouthfeel carries flavors of curry and
marzipan, making for a conversation starter and
memorable take on a variety that’s still finding its
New World footing. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
88
Stolpman 2012 Estate Roussanne (Ballard
Canyon). Yellow spices like saffron sit behind the forward notes of stone fruit and barrel
smoke on this wine from Santa Barbara’s newest
appellation. Once sipped, it balances well between
buttery apple pie and tarter nectarine, with a prominent vanilla finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
87
Tablas Creek 2012 Estate Grown & Bottled
Roussanne (Paso Robles). Tropical notes
rule the nose, with guava most prominent, yet white
flowers present as well. There is lemon rind-driven
acidity on the apple juice-laden palate, making for
a pleasant wine for drinking with light fare. —M.K.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO
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Hendry 2013 Hendry Vineyard Pinot Gris
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 6.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $18
90
Buena Vista 2013 The Count’s Selection
Pinot Gris (Sonoma Valley). White pepper
and matchstick come to the fore aromatically in this
crisp white that’s fuller bodied on the palate than
one would expect given the aromatics. Apple and
pear give a complex, autumnal fruit presence that
leads up to a ripe, creamy finish. Editors’ Choice.
—V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
this intriguing wine begins with aromas of pear
cider and sourdough yeast, pulling the nose in for
more. It’s all nectarine and baking soda once sipped,
making for a playful tension between fruit and minerality. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $24
87
Madonna Estate 2013 Estate Bottled Pinot
Gris (Carneros-Napa Valley). Made from
organically grown grapes, this is a stainless-steel
fermented and aged white. High in acidity, it offers
a creaminess to the palate. Flavors of fennel and
melon end briefly and satisfyingly. —V.B.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $28
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Benessere 2013 Pinot Grigio (Napa Valley).
Full and creamy, this is sizable on the palate
with swathes of stone fruit and peaches followed by
fig. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $22
84
Bota Box 2013 Pinot Grigio (California). It’s
very clean and fresh in aroma, cool and clear
in flavor and soft in texture. Vaguely pearlike aromas lead to more vivid and interesting canteloupe
flavors on the finish. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $23/3 L
84
Cline 2013 Estate Grown Pinot Gris (Sonoma
Coast). Grassy aromatically, this is a crisp,
refreshing white that’s slightly undefined in pear
and melon. Light bodied and easy to quaff. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
88
Courtney Benham 2013 Pinot Gris (Russian
River Valley). This well-made, attractively
priced wine delivers on the light floral characteristics of the variety. A liveliness to the palate makes it
seem slightly spritzy, in a good way. Melon, mango
and citrus dominate. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $15
88
Villa San Juliette 2013 Reserve Pinot Gris
(Paso Robles). Ever so slightly pink in color,
90
Lafond 2012 SRH Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills).
Extremely sharp scents of petrol and gasoline exhaust are cut with bright citrus on this very
cool climate Riesling, which was once planted widely in the Sta. Rita Hills. Lemongrass, lime zest and
toasted coconut flake combine for an interesting
palate, and this wine should age quite well. Cellar
Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
89
Standing Sun 2012 Riesling (Santa Barbara
County). A bit more oxidized style of Riesling from Buellton-based winemaker John Wright,
this delivers aromas of baking bread, roasted almonds and toast with marmalade. The rich yet
lively wine relies more on tannins than tart acidity, with flavors of honey-laced brioche and seared
marshmallow. —M.K.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $24
ALBARIÑO
90
Brecon Estate 2013 Albariño (Central
Coast). For full review see page 10.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
90
Hendry 2013 Hendry Vineyard Albariño
abv: 13.7%
Price: $20
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Muscardini 2012 Sole del Mattino Vineyard
Pinot Grigio (Sonoma Valley). Salty on the
nose, this tropically rich and ripe wine has woody,
herbal undertones. —V.B.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $26
Redwood Ridge Estate 2013 Estate Pinot
Grigio (Santa Cruz Mountains). Very yeasty
aromas of baking croissant and cooking omelette—
more sparkling wine-like than still—emerge on this
wine. The flavors suggest a strong pear cider, with
more eggs, yeast and baked croutons. —M.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
88
Claiborne & Churchill 2013 Pinot Gris (Central Coast). The longtime Alsatian-focused
producer —circa 1983—delivers a wine with aromas
of lemon peel, pear juice, lime zest and yellow cake.
The palate shows orange blossom sorbet and a lemon zest that lingers from sip to finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
The palate is based on very balanced acidity, with
flavors of buttered pear and lemon strudel. —M.K.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $28
RIESLING
Marimar Estate 2013 Don Miguel Vineyard
Estate Grown & Bottled Albariño (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 11.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
Derby 2012 Derby Vineyard Albariño (Paso
Robles). California’s take on this grape
can be more showy than is done in its Spanish
homeland, and this is a good example. A strongly
perfumed nose of white flowers, yellow rose and
pineapple is quite intriguing. The palate is more
standard fare: pear, apple, green banana and citrus
pith, trending toward bitterness and tartness more
than ripe fruit. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
91
Claiborne & Churchill 2013 Riesling (Central
Coast). This regional blend conveys elegant
aromas of tangerine blossom, seared lime, green
apples and passionfruit sorbet. The tropicality
rules the palate, with guava and more passionfruit,
but the ripe fruit is used judiciously, with tension
thanks to minerality and bitter citrus pith. —M.K.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $20
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Claiborne & Churchill 2012 Estate Riesling
(Edna Valley). More than 30 years of making dry Alsatian wines in the Edna Valley are on display in this classic bottling. The varietal’s familiar
gasoline nose picks up lightness from fresh apple,
crisp nectarine and a macadamia-marzipan touch.
WHITE BLENDS
Tablas Creek 2012 Esprit Blanc de Tablas Estate Grown & Bottled Roussanne-Grenache
Blanc-Picpoul Blanc (Paso Robles). For full review
see page 8.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
Derby 2011 Fifteen 10 White (Paso Robles).
Honey, crisp lemon and poached apple make
for an excellent nose on this blend of 31% Marsanne, 26% Roussanne, 22% Grenache Blanc, 11%
Viognier and 10% Picpoul. The flavors are equally
impressive, with nectarine, white flowers and yelWINEMAG.COM | 31
BUYINGGUIDE
low pear making for an easy-to-quaff white wine.
—M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
the palate, with pear flavors most noticeable and a
round citrus element to the midpalate. —M.K.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $20
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Galante 2013 Wagon Wheel White (Carmel
Valley). This blend of Sauvignon Blanc and
Viognier is quite pale in color, with aromas of ripe
pear and squeezed lemon. It’s bright and lively on
the palate, with cold crushed apples and pear blossoms bringing lots of life to the wine. —M.K.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $25
Sanguis 2011 Out of Line White (Santa Barbara County). Pineapple and lemon cream
pie converge on this viscous, deep-yellow blend of
Chardonnay and Roussanne, made by urban winemaker Matthias Pippig on Santa Barbara’s Eastside.
There is an emergent acidity on the palate, powered
by nectarine, but it’s nicely dense and rich. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
Adelaida 2013 Finder Estate White (Paso
Robles). The blend of 40% Grenache Blanc,
28% Viognier, 20% Picpoul Blanc, and 12% Roussanne hits the nose with minerality and citrus,
wound tightly around tangerine peel. The flavors
are almost all lime zest and chalk, making for a brisk
pre-dinner drink or perfect shellfish partner. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
Jada Vineyard & Winery 2013 XCV (Paso Robles). Quite densely perfumed, this blend
of 52% Roussanne, 31% Grenache Blanc and 17%
Viognier offers aromas of tuberose, sweet melon,
ripe peach and banana candy. The flavors are also
quite ripe, with pear, a little more banana and a
touch of smoke, all laced together with lingering
acidity. —M.K.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $35
89
Le Vigne 2013 Bianco (Paso Robles). The
nose on this secret blend is clean and tight,
not showy at all, with just a touch of papaya and
honey. It expands greatly on the palate with banana
and melon, but wipes up quick with a fresh burst of
acidity. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $21
89
Standing Sun 2012 Le Blanc (Santa Barbara
County). There’s a slightly oxidized sense to
this blend of 40% Grenache Blanc, 30% Viognier
and 30% Roussanne, with aromas of dried peach,
apricot, sourdough bread and lightly toasted marcona almonds. The flavors are very much powered
by yellow flowers, with saffron and scorched lemon
elements. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
89
Tablas Creek 2013 Patelin de Tablas Blanc
(Paso Robles). Notes of sharp apple, citrus
zest and just-cut nectarine introduce this blend of
54% Grenache Blanc, 25% Viognier, 13% Roussanne, and 8% Marsanne. Racy acidity dominates
ONX 2013 Field Day (Paso Robles). This adventurous blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc,
28% Viognier and 22% Grenache Blanc excites the
nose with cut grass and lime zest. But it’s most enthralling once sipped, boasting a lively acidity that
wakes up the palate with green but not too tart
apple flavors. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
Terra d’Oro 2013 Chenin Blanc-Viognier
(Clarksburg). A richness in texture and and
a lingering finish make this subtly flavored wine
stand out. Fresh apple notes combine with floral
tones in the aroma, and continue through the finish. The overall impression is of smoothness and
full body. —J.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
Pomar Junction 2013 Cotes de Pomar Blanc
(Paso Robles). There is boisterous tropicality on the nose of this blend of 40% Rousanne, 40%
Grenache Blanc and 20% Viognier, full of passionfruit, pineapple and peach. It’s juicy and fleshy once
sipped, echoing the tropical flavors, but with a wet
slate minerality providing backbone. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $34
Tablas Creek 2013 Cotes de Tablas Blanc Estate Grown & Bottled (Paso Robles). This is
a highly aromatic wine, pungent with guava jelly
and ripe tropical scents, and not subtle in the least.
The blend of 39% Viognier, 29% Grenache Blanc,
20% Marsanne and 12% Roussanne provides a palate dominated by fragrant tuberose flowers, which
translate to strong white flower flavors throughout.
—M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $27
Spann Vineyards 2012 Yin-Yang Chardonnay-Viognier (Sonoma County). An equal
partnership between Chardonnay and Viognier, this
wine is brisk and slightly austere, the nose floral
in geranium and the fruit profile of apple, pear and
pineapple light and subtle. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
84
Hey Mambo 2013 White (California). Strong
grassy aromas and flavors come with an
almost sweet feel in the mouth in this mediumbodied, rather soft-texured white wine. It’s blended
from Viognier, Chardonnay and French Colombard,
and it’s hard to say which one it resembles most.
—J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
81
Naggiar 2011 La Contessa Sylvana (Sierra
Foothills). This blend looks slightly more
brassy than golden, smells like dried apples and
tastes rather lean and almost chalky. It comes off as
nervy and fully mature. —J.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $32
OTHER WHITES
Claiborne & Churchill 2013 Gewürztraminer
(Central Coast). From a winery focused on
Alsatian wines since starting in 1983, this tremendous Gewürztraminer is redolent with grilled lemon
peels, lilac and a chalky minerality. On the elegant
and tasty palate, there are white rocks, roasted
nectarines, yellow apples and noticeable salinity.
—M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Calera 2013 Aligoté (Mt. Harlan). Josh Jensen
was the first to plant this alternative Burgundian white varietal in America, and this bottling
offers notes of honeyed apricot juice, ripe nectarines and melons and toasted almonds. It’s waxy and
fleshy on the palate, with grilled lemon warmth,
squeezed lime acidity and a nutty finish. —M.K.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $24
Joullian 2013 Estate Sémillon (Carmel Valley). Aromas of honey and beeswax come
from this wine made from 26-year-old vines of this
still-rare Bordeaux grape in California. The flavors
are a tad flatter, with almond, charred lemon and
pear flesh, though the lifting quality of lemongrass
makes this a suitable selection for a wide array of
Asian food. —M.K.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
Burbank Ranch 2013 Little Rascal Estate
Grown Arneis (Paso Robles). This uncommon Italian grape gets a good showing, with aromas
of red apples, lychee and wet stone. The flavors
are evenly presented with citrus and stone fruit,
a straight-forward sipper perfect for sunny days.
—M.K.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $29
Michael Gill 2013 Oso Blanco Vermentino
(Paso Robles). This rather uncommon
white varietal is primed for shellfish or anything
needing a burst of acidity. Aromas of Meyer lemon
and lime pith get roundness from a light touch of
peach. The flavors are dominated by very tart Granny Smith apple and bitter yellow grapefruit skin.
Excellent for acid-lovers, though perhaps too biting
for others. —M.K.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $40
88
Vinum 2013 Chenin Blanc (Clarksburg).
Clean, crisp, dry and tangy, this pale-colored Chenin Blanc appeals because of its freshness
and bracing acidity. It smells like fresh-cut apples
and a whiff of honey, tastes juicy and lively, and
feels refreshing, medium-bodied and well balanced.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
85
Bota Box 2013 Moscato (California). This
flowery-smelling, fruity-tasting, sweet wine
requires no learning curve to enjoy. The honeysuckle aromas and ripe peach flavors are a lot of fun to
pick out, and the texture is soft and easy to swallow.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $23/3 L
CALIFORNIA
RED WINES
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LXV 2013 Dark Romance Chenin Blanc (Paso
Robles). Promising aromas of tangerine,
light honey and plumeria flowers make a good introduction to this rare look at Chenin Blanc in Paso Robles. The flavors fall a bit flat, though, proving very
round with a just a hint of chopped herbs. —M.K.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $35
ROSÉS
90
De Loach 2013 Olivet Bench Estate Vineyard
Pinot Noir Rosé (Russian River Valley). Rich
in red and yellow hues, this wine is refreshing in
strawberry and dark cherry fruit, supple and bright,
the acidity providing a lift on the palate and longlasting finish. Structured, it’ll hold up to pairings
and continue to maintain its freshness over time.
—V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
89
Jericho Canyon Vineyard 2013 Estate Rosé
(Napa Valley). Light salmon-pink in color,
this refreshing wine is made from a combination of
Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and
Petit Verdot, which all provide structure and complexity. Subtle in aroma and flavor, it is light and
tart, leaning toward intriguing flavors of pomegranate and cranberry. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
88
Archium 2013 Rosé (Santa Barbara County).
Made entirely from Grenache, this begins
with aromas of pink lemonade and grapefruit. The
vibrant, acid-driven palate is dominated by verve
and zing, with mostly citrus flavors and not much
ripe fruit. —M.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
88
Benessere 2013 Estate St. Helena Vineyard
Rosato di Sangiovese (Napa Valley). This
dark-red Rosato has 90% Sangiovese and 10%
Zinfandel and a tiny pinch of residual sugar, combining into a lively, midweight package dancing in
strawberry and raspberry flavor and a finish of herb.
—V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
86
Derby 2012 Derby Vineyard Rosé (Paso
Robles). Dark and nearly ruby red in color,
this nonetheless offers reserved aromas, with just
hints of ripe plum flesh. On the palate, the 100%
Mourvèdre is smooth and uncomplicated, with
grape punch and hibiscus flavors more prominent.
—M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
PINOT NOIR
97
Wayfarer 2012 The Traveler Pinot Noir (Fort
Ross-Seaview). For full review see page 3.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
96
Wayfarer 2012 Golden Mean Pinot Noir (Fort
Ross-Seaview). Crafted from estate-grown
fruit—a marriage of Pommard and Swan clones—
Golden Mean comes from three distinct vineyard
blocks, the Pommard fermented whole-cluster. It
opens with dark, ripe layers of lush cherry-vanilla,
the wine concentrated and rich in oak yet balanced
in acidity. On the finish is a mix of leather, licorice
and wild herb. Tuck it away through 2020–2022.
Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $115
95
Trombetta 2012 Gap’s Crown Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sonoma Coast). Dark, concentrated
and grippy, this is a sizable Pinot from a cool, coveted vineyard. Juicy blue and blackberry fruit dominate on the nose and palate, surrounded by exotic
cedar, clove, oak and toffee, a swipe of vanilla lurking behind the front flavors. The big tannins will
appreciate time in the cellar, through 2022–2024.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $65
finely honed tannins and a lingering, spicy finish.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $75
94
Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Dutton Ranch Freestone Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River
abv: 13.5%
Price: $72
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Fritz 2012 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). This offers a well-defined balance
between ripe, juicy cherry fruit and a seductive
earthiness that keeps every sip intriguing. Structured and medium in weight, it’s a fine choice for
the table, the spiciness on the back palate particularly well-honed and worth recognition. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
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Ken Brown 2010 Rancho La Viña Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Black cherry,
blueberry and blackberry combine for a rewardingly
rich, ripe nose, layered with flecks of graphite and
chai-like spice. The palate is driven at first by black
soil elements, evolving into cooked cherries, tar and
bitter root vegetables, yet possessing a strawberry
lightness as well. This is extremely complex and as
fresh as any more recent vintages. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $60
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abv: 14.1%
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Wayfarer 2012 Mother Rock Pinot Noir (Fort
Ross-Seaview). Brooding in dark cherry and
earthy spice, this fully figured wine offers well-integrated oak. With a savory and powerful profile, it
has a forceful grip on the palate accented by black
tea, truffle and juicy vibrancy. From a mix of Dijon
clones (37 and 777), some fermented whole-cluster, this is a structured, wine from a meticulously
farmed coastal site. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $115
Babcock 2012 Radical Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). Buttered berries, bitter rhubarb,
bergamot, wet sage and pencil lead comprise another fascinating nose from Bryan Babcok’s twist
on the Radian Vineyard. The mouthfeel is lush and
the flavors quite complicated, with black licorice,
cinnamon-laced tea, fennel bulb and underripe
blackberries. Boasting a nice tannic structure, this
is drinking great right now, but hold off till 2020 for
supreme sipping. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $60
De Coelo 2012 Arbore Sacra Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Of the four De Coelo Pinot
Noirs sourced from this one special site, Arbore Sacra is the most earthy, savory and viscous. Grapes
come from the Calera clone, beautifully structured
and shyly subtle. In this graceful wine, expect nuanced layers of Asian spice and blackberry, with
The 50 by 50 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). For full review see page 4. Editors’
Price: $30
Wayfarer 2012 Wayfarer Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Fort Ross-Seaview). An estate blend of 12
different clones, this dark ruby wine is bristling in
acidity and swirling in flavors of strawberry, cherry
and wild fennel. Well integrated and concentrated,
it offers a fully balanced, elegnat expression of the
site. It provides a perfect introduction to the winery’s lineup of site-specific Pinots. Start here and
delve deeper; this wine is both a preview of and
statement of more to come. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90
Windward Vineyard 2008 Estate Bottled
Monople Pinot Noir (Paso Robles). This is an
exciting, classic wine from an appellation not particularly known for this grape. Sour cherries, citrus
peel and olive tapenade consume the complex nose,
and the flavors evolve steadily against the backdrop
of an elegant structure: cranberry-laced tea, cola
and lingering anise. A thrilling look at how Paso Pinot can succeed with age. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $38
Babcock 2012 Appellation’s Edge Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). Bryan Babcock’s three decades of experience show better than ever right
now. This bottling from Radian Vineyard offers aromas of charred cloves, wet slate, peppercorns and
macerated raspberries. Lively and energetic on the
palate, it bursts with flavors of wild berries and ripe
WINEMAG.COM | 33
BUYINGGUIDE
cranberries, with a tart citrusy twist that’s a wakeup call to the mouth. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $60
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Big Basin 2012 Woodruff Family Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). From
35-year-old dry farmed wines (the oldest in Corralitos) and 30% whole cluster/wild yeast fermentation comes aromas of pine pitch and blackberry
jelly. The flavors are driven by sagebrush against a
backdrop of deep purple fruit, with distinctive notes
of juniper and eucalyptus powering the flavors from
front to back. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $44
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De Coelo 2012 Quintus Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Voluptuous in wild strawberry,
cranberry and tart cherry, Quintus is light and suggestively chalky, balanced in velvety tannins and a
backbone of structure. Dancing in the background
is a taste of black tea and dark, fragrant earth. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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Dutton-Goldfield 2012 Fox Den Vineyard Pinot Noir (Green Valley). For full review see
page 5.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
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Dutton-Goldfield 2012 McDougall Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review
see page 5.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $58
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Flying Goat Cellars 2011 Rancho Santa Rosa
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Winemaker Norm Yost racks up bundles of sagebrush,
wild mint and all manner of fresh-cut chaparral on
the nose of this stellar bottling, which comes from
a vineyard on one of California’s longest-held ranchos. The herbally driven palate mixes black and
green olives with fresh raspberry juice and black
pepper. —M.K.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $48
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Fog Crest 2012 Laguna West Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Strong, earthy and herbal,
this dances in wild strawberry and dark cherry
that’s concentrated in texturally pleasing layers
leading up to a potent, spicy finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $39
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Fort Ross 2012 Fort Ross Vineyard Sea Slopes
Pinot Noir (Fort Ross-Seaview). Pleasantly
pungent in ripe damson plum, this Pinot has lovely
acidity, giving it a spicy mouthfeel around firmly
present tannins. Full-bodied midpalate, the wine
mellows through to the finish, ending in juicy fruit
and earth. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $42
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Foxen 2012 John Sebastiano Vinyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). For full review see page
5.
abv: 14%
Price: $48
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J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Freestone Hill
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley).
Tight at first, this elegant Pinot from cooler climes
is velvety on the palate with a back note of juicy
blueberry fruit that maintains an edge of acidity
and tension. Earthy black tea wraps the fruit in a
savory core of intrigue and desire. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Nicole’s Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Nicole’s is
a consistent stunner, upholding its reputation just
fine with this vintage, a vibrant and spicy take on
rich, robust cherry and black raspberry that’s both
juicy and smooth. The finish wraps up nicely with a
take on dark chocolate and mint. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
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Wayfarer 2012 Paige’s Ridge Pinot Noir (Fort
Ross-Seaview). From one block of the estate
vineyard planted exclusively to Dijon clone 667,
Paige’s is deep and dark in color, intense in oak and
earthiness, almost a quarter of it undergoing whole
cluster fermentation. As intense on the palate as
it is darkly hued, it offers brambly blackberry and
dark cherry around a core of wild Tahitian vanilla
and cinnamon-cardamom spice. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $125
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Black Ridge 2010 Estate Grown Pinot Noir
(Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s a dynamic
range of aromas on this wine, from dark blackberry fruit to sassafras, anise, eucalyptus, coffee and
earthy loam. It’s rich with nicely chalky tannins on
the palate, with flavors of cooked black cherry, black
tea and licorice. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $44
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Daou 2012 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). Though
more focused on Bordeaux varieties, the
Daou brothers produce a fantastic Pinot Noir to
chew on, with rich aromas of cherry pie set in a
anise-flecked crust. The wine is soft and plush once
sipped, with black cherries, root beer and strong
black licorice elements. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $65
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Davies 2012 Londer Vineyards Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). Davies has been making Pinot Noir since 2009. Firm, lively acidity and
generous tannins in this complex wine lift up the
distinctive cherry and clove flavors. A sharp balance
means the fruit flavors and fine structure fill each
other out for a harmonious whole. —J.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
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Davies 2012 Spring Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). Feral and wild, Spring Hill
Vineyard lies in the Petaluma Gap where it is regularly enveloped in fog and cooling coastal winds.
The result here is a soft, slightly stemmy, earthy
wine with balanced layers of cherry, raspberry and
vanilla. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
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De Coelo 2012 Domaine de Clarck Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). From a barrel selection
of the Quintus block, planted to the 828 clone of
Pinot Noir, this wine offers a bigger mouthfeel and
heartier vinous experience, awash in darker cherry
fruit and more substantial tannin. Floral in rose and
violet on the nose, those floral highlights return on
the palate, giving the wine a nice tension and balance. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
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De Coelo 2012 Terra Neuma Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Intense and feral in brooding
dark cherry, this Terra Neuma from the extreme Sonoma Coast vineyard known as De Coelo is owned
and tended to by the Benziger family, who pull out
all the stops with its annual collection of Pinots
from the site. Earthy, this one is also silky, subdued
and quite elegant. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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De Loach 2012 OFS Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). Fantastically bright acidity defines
this wine, the winery’s “finest selection,” which is
memorable for its crisp black cherry and strawberry
core of fruit. Voluptuous and silky on the palate, it
carries a hint of Asian spice throughout, the slightest taste of wild vanilla wrapping things up on the
finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Flying Goat Cellars 2011 Dierberg Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Norm Yost
produces another distinct wine, unleashing aromas
of roasted lavender and seared violets alongside
Mission figs and anise. The fresh and lively wine
is extremely soft on the palate with elderberry and
other deeply purple fruit. It also possesses a plumskin tartness that wipes the finish clean. —M.K.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $46
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Fort Ross Vineyard 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Fort Ross-Seaview). Dark purple in color,
this is a fully realized Pinot Noir, aged longer in bottle before release, to great effect. Spicy and earthy,
it offers a density that’s not overwhelming but gives
the wine an ideal combination of style and substance, complex in cherry and vanilla. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
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J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Bow Tie Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Black Tie is
planted to a variety of clones, including Swan and
Rochioli. It is one of the winery’s newest vineyard
sources and this vintage is the first of its vineyarddesignated wines from the site. Floral in anise, plum
and raspberry, it is medium-bodied with a background of oak that picks up on the finish, offering
seasonings of caramel and chocolate. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Strata Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Named for the soil
layers important to wine’s terroir, this Pinot is
sourced from a variety of sites and multiple clones,
providing a complexity of wild strawberry, high
acidity and an herbaceous, oaky backdrop. A teasing kiss of toffee and chocolate on the finish is deliciously intriguing. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
present on this wine, which combines raspberry,
cedar and pan-seared peppercorns on the excellent
nose. The palate is powered by gingerbread cake
topped with a clove-berry sauce. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $36
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Mercy 2012 Riverbed Pinot Noir (Arroyo
Seco). For full review see page 6. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 14.5%
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Price: $28
Sanctuary 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). For full review see
page 7.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $45
92
Schermeister 2012 Paladini Vineyard Pinot Noir (Carneros). From the Napa side of
Carneros, this small-production Pinot is concentrated and oaky, layered throughout in spicy black
cherry tart. The strong flavors lead to a strong, emphatic finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $47
92
Small Vines 2012 MK Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). Earthy, velvety and spicy,
this is lean and balanced in acidity with a meatiness to the midpalate and finish. Layered, it is concentrated in nuanced cherry and raspberry with a
depth of forest floor. —V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $72
92
Weatherborne 2012 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). Distinctly wet-earth aromas of
mushroom surround a line of graphite with touches
of red fruit in this impressive bottling from young
winemaker Cris Carter. The umami-driven flavors
of shiitake and dried figs are elegant and soft in the
mouth, a great fit for lovers of earthy, savory Pinot
Noir. —M.K.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
92
Wrath 2012 Ex Anima Pinot Noir (Monterey).
Winemaker Michael Thomas’s Ex Anima
(which means from the soul) series employs minimal new oak,.This botting reveals a strong nose of
root beer, green olives, blistered tomatoes and wild
sage. The tea-like flavors are laced with berries,
oregano and thyme, quite soulful indeed. —M.K.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $29
91
Big Basin 2012 Lester Family Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Another wildly
complicated Pinot Noir from Bradley Brown, this
smells of crimini mushrooms, smoldering chemise
and sweet cherry tomato reduction sauce, with a
pinch of cinnamon. It’s lush with soft red and purple fruit once sipped, with smoky spice on the edges
and smashed olives throughout. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $44
91
Derby 2011 Derbyshire Vineyard Pinot Noir
(San Luis Obispo County). This vineyard sits
quite near the cool Cambria coastline, yet the grapegrowing challenges faced with each vintage are not
Dierberg 2012 Drum Canyon Vineyard Estate
Grown Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). A very savory nose calls to mind mushrooms sautéed in Italian herbs, with touches of eucalyptus and licorice
on the fringes. The mouthfeel is light in density,
alive with acidity and tannins, tending more towards marinated black olives and charcuterie than
ripe red fruits. —M.K.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $44
91
Ernest 2012 The Engineer Romanini Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review
see page 8.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
91
Foxen 2012 Fe Ciega Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta.
Rita Hills). For this bottling, Billy Wathen and
Dick Dore use fruit from the estate of their longtime
friend, Richard Longoria. Brisk with graphite, it’s
also laden with baking spice and fresh with raspberry sauce on the delicate, intriguing nose. Cloves
and pomegranate dominate the palate, with lingering dark red fruit on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $66
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Hendry 2011 Hendry Vineyard Pinot Noir (Napa
Valley). Lightly textured, this is an ethereal
and sublime wine. Dark brick red in color but feathery on the palate, it offes earthy cherry around a
core of subtle spice. —V.B.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $33
91
Pali 2012 Fiddlestix Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). Dark cranberries, violet and sagebrush
form the core aromas, with a bit of buttery crust on
the edges of this blend of four clones. The flavors
are black and bitter, with strong, plum-skin tannins
currently hiding the riper fruit and spice rack that
will emerge with more time. Pop this for Thanksgiving 2016 or 2017 to impress the table. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $56
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Sarah’s Vineyard 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir
(Santa Clara Valley). There’s a good deal of
complexity on this top bottling from this Gilroybased producer, with chopped black olive, cola,
cloves, thyme and dried lemon peel on the nose. It’s
expansive on the palate, with strawberry, leather,
sour cranberry and chopped herb flavors. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $40
91
TR Elliott 2012 Queste Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). From the Hallberg and O’Connell
Vineyards, both well-respected sites, this wine
delivers seamless texture and clear, well-integrated oak and earth among voluptuous layers of wild
strawberry. Hearty yet balanced, it’s deliciously
lush and dense without going over the top. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $44
91
Trombetta 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
From a newish, small producer that’s worth
keeping an eye on, this wine is earthy and slightly
cloudy, balanced in nature. Wild strawberry and
cranberry are pitted smoothly against firm, medium-bodied tannins and oak. The finish is crisp and
juicy. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $45
90
Black Stallion 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
For full review see page 10. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
90
Buena Vista 2012 Private Reserve Pinot Noir
(Sonoma County). There’s an earthy intensity to this reserve wine, generous in oak and cedar
notes with complicated, concentrated mix of plum,
cherry and berry. Nonetheless, the wine intrigues
and delights. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $65
90
City Winery Chicago 2012 Bien Nacido Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Bien Nacido Vineyard fruit is so popular that
even Chicago winemakers are making Santa Maria
Valley Pinot Noir these days. This easy-drinking,
fun wine offers a juicy cranberry-orange-raisin nose
bolstered by brown spice, and flavors of cran-orange
juice and crushed purple flowers. —M.K.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
90
Cutruzzola 2012 Gloria Pinot Noir (San Luis
Obispo County). Coming from one of the
few vineyards between the coastal town of Cambria and Paso Robles, this brooding wine offers dark
and dank aromas of black dirt, slate, charred meat
and very black cherry. Once sipped, sagebrush and
lavender herbals emerge, along with sour cherry. A
promising effort for an area that may be its own appellation one day. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $40
90
Davies 2012 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley).
Full body and saturated fruit and spice flavors make this a rather big but complex wine. The
fruit notes are quite ripe, cinnamon and vanilla nuances coming out on the palate. Texture is creamy,
helping all the good stuff linger on the finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
90
Davies 2012 Nobles Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Nobles is a lovely vineyard
within what many are calling now the West Sonoma
Coast, a sub-pocket of the sprawling official Sonoma Coast. Here it imparts faint color and a silkiness to the palate, marked additionally by bright,
fresh cherry and dried herb. Subtle, the wine is
structured and elegant. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
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Domaine Carneros 2012 Clonal Series Swan
Pinot Noir (Carneros). Soft and sexy, this
small-production Pinot is made from Swan-clone
grapes exclusively, which provides an intriguing
spiciness to the wine. Amid the spice is a brambly
taste of blackberry and blueberry, layered and juicy
on the palate, the tannins well-ingrained through
the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $55
90
Domaine Carneros 2012 La Terre Promise Estate Single Vineyard Pinot Noir (Carneros).
There’s an old-world sensibility to this wine, made
from estate-grown, organically certified grapes
from one vineyard. Raspberry and tart cherry dance
around an elegant, silky texture of tannins and
rounded finish. The 15 months of barrel aging are
subtle in providing structure. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $55
90
En Garde 2011 Reserve Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). Extended time in all new
French oak barrels give this wine a heartier feel
than it might otherwise have, swirls of oaky caramel
and toast most prominent on the nose and initial
palate. A richness of color also stands out, while
velvety tannins and red fruit complete the experience. Letting the wine open helps temper its size,
revealing a measured level of refinement. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $60
90
Fulcrum 2012 On Point Christina’s Cuvee
Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This one is
all about elegant balance, electric acidity and mild
but angular tannins that seem to light up the palate while the fresh red cherry and raspberry flavors
soothe and satisfy. It’s medium-bodied, very firm in
texture and flavorful without being overdone. —J.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
90
J Vineyards & Winery 2012 Barrel 16 Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). There is an
opulence of ripe, black fruit in this Pinot, a selection from various vineyard sources throughout the
appellation. Floral in violet and rose, it offers rich
cardamom-cinnamon spice and a balanced taste of
cola and jam. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
90
Joseph Phelps 2012 Freestone Vineyards Estate Grown Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
90
Lachini 2012 La Cruz Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). This brick-red wine
comes from Keller Estate Winery’s estate vineyard,
a prime site overlooking the Petaluma Gap , which
gets plenty of fog and wind. Stemmy and earthy, it is
a powerful wine, slightly sweet in brown sugar and
vanilla oak, a swath of jammy cherry and raspberry
throughout. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $50
90
Marimar Estate 2012 Doña Margarita Vineyard Mas Cavalls Unfiltered Estate Grown &
Bottled Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). For full review
see page 11.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $44
90
Sarah’s Vineyard 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa
Cruz Mountains). Taking fruit from his estate’s neighboring, higher elevation appellation,
vintner Tim Slater delivers aromas of rhubarb, beet
juice and fennel shavings. The very flavorful wine is
lush with red fruits and brown spices like nutmeg,
delivering a solid, straight-forward representation
of the beloved grape. —M.K.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $32
90
Small Vines 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Made in tiny quantities, this wine
comes from the Barlow Homestead, a cool ridgetop
vineyard that gets plenty of coastal wind. Structured, it offers firm tannins and layers of black licorice, tea and oak, a combination of Pommard and
Swan clones showing their character. —V.B.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $55
dium-sized weight to the midpalate, it finishes soft
and round. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $42
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Lafond 2010 Pommard Clone Lafond Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This clonal
study by winemaker Bruce McGuire and regional
pioneer Pierre Lafond offers scents of ripe cranberry
with notes of wild mint. It’s peppery on the front
part of the palate, evolving toward strawberry in the
middle before winding up tart and slightly bitter.
—M.K.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $50
89
Pietra Santa 2011 Signature Collection Estate Grown and Bottled Pinot Noir (Cienega
Valley). Hailing from an estate founded in the 1850s
amidst the granite and limestone soils of the San
Andreas Fault, this savory wine offers a nose of red
rose, black earth, cinnamon and wild mint. The palate is dominated by cooked red fruit, with chalky
tannins and a slightly sour yeastiness. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
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Claiborne & Churchill 2012 Pinot Noir (Edna
Valley). A powerful spice rack of mace, allspice and cinnamon stick coat aromas of roasted
tomatoes on this wine from the longtime Alsatianfocused producer. The flavors come and go quickly,
but feature orange peel-driven acidity, squeezed
plum fruit and cranberry juice. —M.K.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $28
De Loach 2012 Pennacchio Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Fresh and vibrant in sour red cherry upon entry, this vineyarddesignate evolves into fleshier, fuller-bodied overtones of ripe, dark fruit and game, the wine juicy
and voluptuous. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
89
Dierberg 2012 Estate Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A delicious aromatic range of
smoked meats, spicy strawberries and cinnamonlaced churros introduce this wine from one of the
appellation’s most promising vineyards. Red fruits
and brown spice power the palate, with noticeable tannins and a good wash of acid on the finish.
—M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $44
Domaine Carneros 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros). Estate-grown grapes make up this
wine, an elegant expression of raspberry and cherry
complemented by cola and vanilla. With supple
tannins the wine is easy to enjoy, the finish intense
without exaggeration. The grapes are organically
grown. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $36
Gundlach Bundschu 2012 Estate Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This bottling
comes from the winery’s Rhinefarm Estate Vineyard
near the town of Sonoma, planted to eight separate
Pinot Noir blocks. Savory in cranberry and cassis
and quite austere, it’s balanced in aromas of rose
petal and a taste of black tea. Tannins are ripe yet
firm, providing structure to help age the wine further. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $37
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Jekel 2012 Pinot Noir (Monterey). For full
review see page 13.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
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Pennywise 2012 Pinot Noir (California). For
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Domaine Carneros 2012 The Famous Gate
Pinot Noir (Carneros). This Pinot offers a
substantial amount of big, concentrated fruit, from
plum to ripe, almost baked cherry, the kind you’d
find in a pie. Pronounced oak underlies a sizable
amount of tannin structure, with savory spice and
earthy leather layered into the wine. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $75
Emeritus 2012 Hallberg Ranch Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). This is a high-toned,
structured wine with vibrant acidity that is layered
in earth, spice, raspberry and black tea. After a me-
Sarah’s Vineyard 2011 Estate Pinot Noir
(Santa Clara Valley). Though not known as
a particularly cool region, the hills southwest of San
Jose turn out solid Pinot Noirs for this winery. Aromas recall olives, forest floor and cloves, and flavors
are quite smooth, with buttered cherries, peppery
spice, cola and vibrant acidity that cuts a clean,
quick finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
Summerland 2013 Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara
County). Root beer, sage and pomegranate
emerge with coaxing off this vineyard blend from
Summerland, whose tasting room is steps from the
beach. The palate is tense with slate-driven minerality and high tones of raspberry, relying on acidity
rather than ripeness. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Calista 2012 Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Warm fruit aromas of raspberry tart
with a soft butter edge lead the nose. Flavors are not
particularly strong, though there is a touch of red
berries, and the palate is defined by tartness and
bitterness. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
87
Cherry Pie 2013 Cherry Tart Pinot Noir (California). Lush, oak-aided aromas of browned
butter, cherry-pie crust and sweet Vietnamese coffee come off of this blend of fruit from Monterey,
Santa Barbara, and Sonoma counties. The flavors
are fruit punchy at first, with cooked cherries, but
grow more intriguing with anise, oregano and a tannic, orange peel finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
87
Labyrinth 2012 Pinocules Pinot Noir (Santa
Maria Valley). There’s a noticeable greenness to the nose of this intriguing if challenging
wine, with scents of jalapeño, pencil shavings and
uncured cedar emerging from the whole-cluster
fermentation. The interesting elements continue
to the palate, with peppercorns present alongside
good acid and tannins, but without much ripe fruit
at all. —M.K.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $65
lowed up by burly oak and big brambly blackberry
and cherry fruit, a touch of herb on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Vino Vargas 2012 RIo Ruso Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Light in texture, this
wine shows a fair amount of barrel influence aromatically. On the palate, it’s similarly challenging to
disregard the oak, which frames a mid-weight body
marked by sour cherry. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
86
Black Stallion 2012 Limited Release Pinot
Noir (Los Carneros). This Pinot is austere
and tremendously earthy, flavored in forest floor
and wild mushroom, a trail of dried herb accentuating the finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $35
86
Bread & Butter 2013 Pinot Noir (California).
A rich coating of oaky, sweet-seeming vanilla and maple notes dominates this medium-bodied,
broad and rich wine. The modest cherry and berry
flavors can’t quite compete with all the oak, but
there’s no denying that it’s tasty. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Davies 2012 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
From a trio of vineyards the winery otherwise vineyard-designates, including Spring
Hill, Saltonstall and Nobles, this Pinot is rustic in
truffled earth and dried herb, the earthiness of the
Pommard clone grapes out in full force. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
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Lost Canyon 2012 Whitton Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). Soft and round,
this single-vineyard designated wine conveys
earthy, stemmy undertones. Big, chewy cherry fruit
dominates on the palate. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
Santa Barbara Winery 2013 Pinot Noir (Santa
Barbara County). Cola, upturned earth and
wet pine needles emerge off of this entry-level Pinot
from the region’s first modern winery. The flavors
range from scorched raspberry to tart cranberry,
with the bitter side of the grape quite prominent.
That may mellow over some time. —M.K.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $18
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Sarah’s Vineyard 2012 Estate Pinot Noir
(Santa Clara Valley). Black tea, charred cherries and tree bark aromas arise off this wine from a
cooler part of a warm appellation. The wine is a bit
thin and light on the palate once sipped, with pomegranate fruit. Drink at the beach or with lighter fare.
—M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $36
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Taken 2013 Complicated Pinot Noir (Sonoma
County). There’s an earthy funkiness to this
inexpensive Pinot, made at an unheard-of price
point for the area. Dry tannins greet the entry fol-
Kalaris 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
Thinly textured and light red in color, this
Pinot is lean and very much in display of rustic,
earthy aromas and flavors. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $52
R2 2012 Red Birds Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Minty and earthy, this has a funkiness along with thick layers of black raspberry and
tea. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $32
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Black Box 2013 Pinot Noir (California). For
abv: 13.2%
Price: $25/3 L
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Landmark 2012 Grand Detour Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Soft and ripe, this is straightforward in blackberry, dark cherry and a touch of
game. The medium-bodied palate is easygoing and a
match for a wide variety of meals. Enjoy now. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Panaro Brothers Winery 2010 Los Alamos
Pinot Noir (Santa Barbara County). The aromas on this blend of Los Alamos fruit are highly
extracted, like berry liqueur. The cooked red fruit
carries to the palate as well, amplified with a touch
of spice cake. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
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Redwood Ridge Estate 2013 Estate Pinot
Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). Slightly sour
aromas of cooked prunes consume the nose on this
very simply presented wine, with just a front label.
Stewed plums with ginger and other brown spices
characterize the palate. —M.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
80
Kirkland Signature 2012 Pinot Noir (Carneros). A streak of eucalyptus and menthol
verges on minty mouthwash, amking for a not-altogether pleasant drinking experience. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $10
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
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Tobacco Road 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
abv: 14.5%
Price: $199
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Hunnicutt 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review see page 5. Cellar
Selection.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $85
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Stone The Crows 2012 Three Twins Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full
review see page 5. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $95
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Volker Eisele Family Estate 2010 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see
page 6. Cellar Selection.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $50
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Blackjack 2010 Harmonie Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Barbara County). A heavily spiced nose of cracked peppercorn and tobacco
notes mesh with blackberry extract and blueberries on this top bottling from the winery. Its flavors
are even darker than blue fruit, with creosote and
smoked cigar elements that mellow and evolve as
the bottle sits open. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $75
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Falcone 2011 Mia’s Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). A wild array of aromas emerge from this wine by the estate vineyard
of John and Helen Flacone: blueberry, black cherry,
smoked cedar, sweet tobacco, lead, pungent peppercorns and sweet hickory. It stays soft and light on
the palate, with buoyant acidity balancing the dark
fruits. Quite a wine to name after their daughter.
—M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
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Grgich Hills 2010 Yountville Selection Estate
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
For full review see page 6. Cellar Selection.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $195
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Martin Lane Winery 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sierra Foothills). Richness, concentration and exotic mint and dark chocolate flavors
WINEMAG.COM | 37
BUYINGGUIDE
help this darkly colored and full-bodied Cabernet
stand out. It layers mouth-coating tannins over
ripe black cherry, black olive and light sage flavors.
Should be a crowd pleaser for a special dinner. Best
now through 2024. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Mulvane Wine Co. 2011 Neal 3 Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This smallproduction Cab is at first faint in subtle fruit but
slowly works its magic, offering balanced layers of
black currant and blackberry around soft, toasty
mocha oak, picking up nuance and complexity on
the way to a lingering finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
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Tobacco Road 2008 Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This private
reserve is 93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec
and 2% Petit Verdot, aged considerably in bottle.
Rich and full-bodied, it has a vanilla-kissed nose
and earthy leather pedigree, the black cherry flavor
concentrated and thick. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $99
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Alta 2011 Vintners Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Solid and full-bodied,
this tightly structured Cabernet has a deep redblack color. Enticing aromas of cedar and cinnamon precede focused but not overly ripe fruit flavors that suggest black cherry and cranberry, plus
a dark chocolate impression that suits it well. It’s
tight with tannins right now, so best to drink after
2016. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $75
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Flora Springs 2011 Hillside Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Rutherford). From a tiny hillside block in Rutherford, this 100% Cab is soft in
clove, black currant and olive, juicy yet restrained.
It spent almost two years in 90% new French oak,
but the presence of oak is subtle and the tannins
well-managed, making the wine both enjoyable now
and worth cellaring through 2020. Cellar Selection.
—V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $125
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Hall 2011 Jack’s Masterpiece Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page
9. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $125
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Le Vigne 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). For full review see page 9.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $35
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M by Michael Mondavi 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Sourced from the family’s Animo Vineyard atop Atlas Peak, this Cab comes
from the highest-elevation blocks on the vineyard,
some 1,350 feet up. Ripe plum fruit flavors surround savory elements of black tea, the structure
well-honed and age-worthy through 2020–2025.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $200
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Silverado 2011 SOLO Cabernet Sauvignon
(Stags Leap District). For full review see page
9.
abv: 13.3%
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Price: $100
Brandlin 2011 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page
10.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
County). Big and rich, this needs time or a great
steak to bring out its best. The color is very dark to
the rim. Aromas are closed but the flavors compare
to tart blackberry and black cherry with smoky accents. It has density, a layered texture that is tannic but not harsh, and a reserved power that should
come out with time. Best after 2018. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
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Brandlin 2011 Henry’s Keep Proprietary
Red (Napa Valley). Brandlin is Cuvaison’s
Mount Veeder-situated property devoted to Bordeaux grapes. This particular bottling is a blend of
81% Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% Malbec, 2% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc. Juicy and woody,
it opens with a rich, Cabernet Franc-like nose of
herb and cassis and is balanced on the palate, with
a ripeness of oak at the end. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $98
Carnivor 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). For full review see page 14. Best Buy.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
Chimney Rock 2011 Ganymede Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District).
This is a rather classic Stags Leap Cabernet, savory
in currant and clove with a toasty oak overlay. It’s
structured in sizable tannins that should give the
wine plenty of time to develop in bottle, through
2020–2025. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
Clos du Val 2010 Joie du Vin Cabernet Sauvignon (Stags Leap District). A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from 20-plus-year-old vines, this
wine is nearly black in color and balanced between
rich dark cherry and blueberry fruit and more savory layers of tart cranberry and cherry. It’s tightly
wound and grippy, the oak providing structure and
strength, with a finish of tobacco. Let age through
2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $400
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Hall 2011 Ellie’s Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). This wine is named for the mother of one of the owners, an artist and teacher who
provided the inspired artwork found on the label.
It blends mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with smaller
handfuls of Cabernet Franc and Merlot and is soft
in red currant with fully developed acidity. —V.B.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $80
90
Jamieson Ranch 2012 Double Lariat Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review see page 11.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
90
McManis 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). For full review see page 14. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
90
Obsidian Ridge 2011 Obsidian Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Hills Lake
Pride Mountain 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma-Napa). From 62% Sonoma fruit
and 38% Napa, this 92% Cabernet Sauvignon is
blended with small percentages of Merlot and Petit
Verdot. A cassis-fragrant nose leads to deep, juicy
layers of chocolate, black raspberry and soft tannins
with a subtle suggestion of mint and restrained oak.
—V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $70
Smith & Hook 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Central Coast). For full review see page 12.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
Ancient Oak Cellars 2011 Tò Érgon Berger
Vineyard (Sonoma Mountain). Tannic and
structured, this combines 85% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 15% Merlot, with a leathery, earthy fist-print of
black fruit imprinted on the wine. It’s big boned but
not out of balance and can stand some time lying
down, through 2018. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $75
Herzog 2012 Variations Five Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Pleasant richness and
depth of fruit flavor accompany the deep color and
nicely chewy tannins in this full-bodied Cabernet.
It tastes dry and well balanced between acidity, tannins and fruitiness, and will be a great mealtime
wine with all kinds of protein. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
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Pennywise 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). For full review see page 14. Best
Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
89
Pomar Junction 2012 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Minerals and earth
lift the nose of this wine, with iron ore, rust and
jet black soils alongside a touch of boysenberry
fruit. The palate is sanguine as well, reflecting red
volcanic dirts, with fruit trending toward violet and
cranberry. —M.K.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $34
89
RouteStock Cellars 2012 Route 29 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made by former
Chandon and Louis Martini winemaker Wayne
Donaldson, this well-constructed Cab offers herbal
blackberry and dark raspberry fruit around a core
of soft tannins. It has a touch of grip to the finish,
which is accented in richly roasted coffee. The addi-
tion of 18% Merlot helps soften the overall picture.
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
come from barrel aging. It is firmly tannic and has a
lingering finish. —J.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Steven Kent 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Livermore Valley). Well-structured and
medium-bodied, this has generous oak and spice
aromas, rich and deep berry flavors, a firm and tannic texture and an almost sweet finish. This tastes
well-balanced, lavishly flavored and tempting. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $48
88
B.R. Cohn 2012 Gold Label Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa County-Sonoma County). A
100% Cabernet Sauvignon from both Napa County
(67%) and Sonoma County (33%), Gold Label is a
new line for the winery, meant to represent its ultra-premium collection of Cabernet. Howell Mountain and Atlas Peak are represented, as is the B.R.
Cohn Olive Hill estate vineyard. Minty, with traces
of cedar and cranberry, it offers firm tannins and a
black cherry finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
88
Castoro Cellars 2012 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Castoro founder
Niels Udsen has been making wine since 1983. He
produces a very classic style in this bottling, with
cherry, brown spice and cedar on the nose. The palate blends vanilla bean with black and Bing cherries, and sits on heavy tannins, ensuring a decent
shelf life. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
88
City Winery of New York 2011 Obsidian Ridge
Vineyard Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Red
Hills Lake County). A few years of aging may help
this full-bodied, very structured and tannic Cabernet smooth out and gain more complexity. Alternatively, pour it now with something rich like a
grilled rosemary lamb chop. It feels tight because of
the dense, lip-smacking tannins, yet it does pack in
considerable ripe plum, smoke and tobacco flavors.
Best after 2017. —J.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $38
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Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles).
The nose on this wine from the Willow Creek area
plays between the lighter elements of bright red
cherries and heavier hints of tar, with a bit of sour
plum thrown in as well. The palate is loaded with
chalky tannins, offering flavors of black cherries and
licorice, but it could use some more time in bottle.
—M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $32
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Ironstone 2011 Reserve Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Sierra Foothills). This fullbodied red has the classic Cabernet aromas and flavors that made California wine famous in the 1970s.
Plenty of black cherry is shaded by black olive and
hints of bell pepper, plus softly spicy tones that may
Irony 2012 Small Lot Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (North Coast). For full review see
page 13.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
88
Michael David 2012 Earthquake Cabernet
Sauvignon (Lodi). Boldly flavored and fullbodied, this is marked by strong, spicy-sweet oak
aromas and flavors. It has a massive richness of
tannins, gobs of ripe boysenberry and black cherry
character, and a very deep red color. Despite the
hefty structure, it’s drinkable now if accompanied
by equally rich food. —J.G.
abv: 15%
Price: $26
88
Noble Vines 2012 337 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Lodi). For full review see page 13.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
that are typical of young Cabernet Sauvignon. While
it could pair well now with beef short ribs or osso
buco, it should mellow after 2018. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
87
Pure Cru 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
Valley). This is a ripe, full-bodied Cab with
smaller percentages of Merlot and Cabernet Franc
that give it a tinge of currant and cherry amid a
larger presence of oaky vanilla. The finish brings the
wine’s more sizable attributes to the fore. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $42
87
Shannon Ridge 2012 High Elevation Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). This fragrant
confection smells like caramel and toasted French
bread, and tastes like milk chocolate and cherries without the sugar. It is medium-bodied, very
smooth in texture and almost sweet on the finish.
—J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $23
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Pomar Junction 2010 Estate Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Deeply purple
aromas of acai fruit and grape Jolly Rancher candies
get a bit more serious with the scent of smoked cigars. The grape-juice element carries to the easy-todrink, not overly complex palate, which will work
well with food or just by itself. —M.K.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $54
Uphill Vineyards 2010 Jimmy’s Dream Cabernet Sauvignon (Amador County). Wellmade, well-balanced and medium-bodied, this
combines moderate blackberry and black cherry
flavors with subtle spicy notes. The texture is tannic
enough to be great with food, but smooth enough to
enjoy sipping. —J.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
Vina Robles 2010 Suendero (Paso Robles).
On this blend of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon
and 21% Petit Verdot from Adelaida Springs Ranch,
iron-laced, gamy scents lead the nose, which also
picks up aromas of elderberry and oak smoke. Plums
and other purple fruit show on the palate, along
with black licorice and strong but well-integrated
tannins. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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Vinum 2012 Veritas The Insider Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Producers Chris
Condos and Richard Bruno put together a fairly
priced wine, with aromas of herbed pie crust surrounding warm blackberry fruit. There’s more
smoked meat on the palate than ripe fruit, and it is
quite tannic, so can handle heavy fare. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
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Herzog 2012 Variations Three Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A tannic intensity makes
this full-bodied wine a candidate for further aging.
It shows spicy, oaky aromas, ripe plum and cherry
flavors, and a vivid sense of tooth-drying tannins
CK Mondavi 2012 Wildcreek Canyon Cabernet
Sauvignon (California). Flavors and body
that are textbook Cabernet Sauvignon—but on the
light side—make this honest and straightforward. It
smells like ripe plums, herbes de Provence and a bit
like black olives. It tastes hearty, feeling round and
smooth with just the right amount of tannic grip for
a medium-bodied Cab. Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $7
Concannon 2012 Selected Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Earthy, slightly
oaky aromas, bright plum flavors and a smooth,
juicy texture make this Cabernet a bit different and
easily enjoyable. The flavors are generous, the balance is almost sweet, the tannins are soft and the
body is not too full. —J.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $15
Courtney Benham 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Grippy and surrounded in a
thick, leathery texture and aroma, it holds bright
cranberry tones underneath the thickness, making
this a palatable Cabernet. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $25
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Greystone 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A sense of sweetness and jammy
fruit flavors make this a good pairing to tame spicy,
meaty foods like ribs, chili or Szechuan beef. It was
fashioned almost like a Zinfandel, with lots of ripeness, ample sweet and spicy oak notes and full body.
—J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Jamieson Ranch 2012 Light Horse Three
County Cabernet Sauvignon (California). An
almost sweet, ripe fruit character makes this enticing to smell and easy to drink. Though full-bodied
and packed with fine tannins, it has a soothingly
rich texture. A syrupy oak and fruit flavor lingers on
the finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
WINEMAG.COM | 39
BUYINGGUIDE
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Nine North Wine Company 2012 Chasing
Lions Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A
minty aspect to this smooth, medium-bodied Cabernet helps it stand out. It has tasty plum flavors, a
polished texture, and moderate tannins and acidity.
It’s easy to enjoy now. —J.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $14
85
Avalon 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Soft and round, this 80% Cabernet
Sauvignon also has 16% Merlot and 4% Cabernet
Franc and was given 16 months of oak aging. Flavors
lean toward red berry and cedar. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $20
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Belle Ambiance 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). For full review see page 16. Best
Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
85
Frisson Wines 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This Cab is straightforward
in stark cherry and dry tannins, the texture still
quite grippy and generous. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $60
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HandCraft 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Soft and easygoing, this has light
herb and cedar aromas, raspberry jam flavors, a
light texture that’s not very tannic, and a sense of
slight sweetness. Still it has enough body to feel
generous. —J.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
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Ironstone 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi).
A powerful, almost overbearing oak influence makes this wine bombastic. Toasty, maple
sugar and smoked bacon flavors come from heavily
charred new oak barrels or oak add-ins. It has a very
dark color, full body, plenty of tannins and a smoky,
oaky finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
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Star Lane Vineyard 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). This
is another heavily tannic wine from Star Lane, too
young to predict exactly where it will wind up. Aromas are a bit reductively barnyard, and the flavors
that peek out from behind the tannic wall are quite
varied, from dark red fruit to slightly sour green olive and aged spices. —M.K.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $46
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Tuck Beckstoffer 2012 Est. 1975 Cabernet
Sauvignon (California). This would make a
good everyday Cabernet due to its relatively light
color and flavor intensity, smooth texture and again
relatively light body. It does offer charming raspberry and black olive aromas, plus tasty cherry flavors
without a lot of drying tannin. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Domino 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). With medium body and flavors that
emphasize ripe cherries and sweet-seeming oak,
this is an easygoing, rather light-colored, cheery
and syrupy Cabernet. It’s not very tannic, is soft in
texture and almost sweet on the finish. Best Buy.
—J.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $7
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Entwine 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Made in a light style compared to most
Cabernets, this has fresh strawberry aromas, a soft
texture and light raspberry flavors. Without the
usual body and richness of Cabernet it drinks more
like a refreshing rose, and will be best chilled. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Schweiger 2009 Estate Bottled Cabernet
Sauvignon (Spring Mountain). Big tannins
dominate this dry, brushy expression of Cabernet
Sauvignon with 5% Merlot that is austere in fruit.
—V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $65
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Charles Krug 2011 Yountville Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This wine is a mix of
85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and
5% Merlot that is tight, tannic and a tad green.
—V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $30
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Happy Camper 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). With a relatively light red color,
sweet and jammy aromas, and fresh strawberry and
red cherry flavors, this is a light and approachable
red wine that might be good with a bit of chilling.
It’s medium in body and easygoing in texture. —J.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
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Rutherford Ranch 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Made from a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon this wine also contains 10% Merlot and 1% Malbec. The combination shows thin on
the palate and lacking somewhat in fruit. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
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Terroir Napa Valley 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). There’s a stewy quality to the
rich fruit in this Cabernet, rounded out somewhat
by 11% Merlot and 9% Petit Verdot. Color is dark
purple and the aromas rustic. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $26
MALBEC
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Hess Collection 2012 Small Block Series Malbec (Mount Veeder). For full review see page
3. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
94
Devil Proof 2012 Farrow Ranch Malbec (Alexander Valley). For full review see page 3.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
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Krutz 2010 Krupp Vineyard Malbec (Napa
Valley). There’s meaty leather and sizable
tannin in this mountain-grown Malbec, from an Atlas Peak vineyard sought after for many types of red
grapes. Time in bottle has served it well, the bolder
aspects and jammy blackberry and blueberry fruit
softened by balanced acidity. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
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Spann Vineyards 2011 Five Barrels Malbec
(Sonoma County). Black pepper and juicy
blue fruit are the highlights of this Malbec, softened
further by the addition of 20% Merlot. The combination works in magical ways, providing rounded
body texture around a core of ripe, lovely fruit and
spice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
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Keating 2011 Malbec (Rockpile). There’s considerable earthiness to the nose of this Malbec, grown in Zin-heavy Rockpile. Soft and wrapped
in cinnamon spice, its sizable tannins are offset by
just enough acidity to keep the wine mouthwatering
and mellowed. —V.B.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $42
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J. Rickards 2011 Zanzi Curve Vines Malbec
(Alexander Valley). High-toned anise and
lavender mark this estate-grown wine aromatically,
followed by balanced layers of blue fruit and leather. A bite of peppery spice on the finish leaves one
wanting more. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $28
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J. Rickards 2012 Zanzi Curve Vines Malbec (Alexander Valley). Earthy and soft, this Malbec
leans rustic in brambly, wild blackberry and meaty
leather, with a mouthful of ripeness on the finish.
—V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $28
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Blackjack 2010 Billy Goat Hill Merlot (Santa
Barbara County). Pungent tobacco, sage and
grape juice aromas lead the nose on this tasty wine.
The tannins are well dispersed on the palate, and
the flavors balance between dark purple fruits and
herbals of licorice and crushed marjoram. —M.K.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $45
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Midnight Cellars 2010 Estate Merlot (Paso
Robles). Strong cedar and cooked cherries
alongside purple flowers and fresh tobacco characterize the nose of this wine from the expected-tobe-approved Willow Creek district. The tannins are
very pronounced but not dominant, revealing sanguine flavors of iron and bloody game. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $36
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Pomar Junction 2011 Estate Merlot (Paso
Robles). Cigar ash, black cherries and black
licorice comprise the nose of this wine from a longtime growing family in the expected-to-be-approved
El Pomar District. It’s a lighter bodied, playful take
on the grape, like grape punch with an herbal twist,
great for drinking today. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $34
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Robert Hall 2012 Merlot (Paso Robles).
Blueberry, leather and creosote swirl together on the nose. The fruit flavors are very dark,
touching on blueberry, and the tannins are strong.
There is a lifting bit of spearmint on the finish, and
a vanilla aftertaste. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
SYRAH
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Foxen 2012 Williamson-Dore Syrah (Santa
Ynez Valley). Ripe boysenberry, root beer
and mocha latte aromas make for a dynamic, delicious nose on this bottling from Foxen’s seven-acre
estate vineyard. The flavors range from black pepper
and roasted meats to dried thyme, sagebrush and
black licorice, all set against emerging tannins and a
long, lingering finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $48
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Stolpman 2012 Estate Syrah (Ballard Canyon). Coming from one of Ballard Canyon’s
premiere vineyards, this offers aromas of black
cherry, wet black loam and morning dew on sage.
The mouthfeel is all silk, and flavors are savory, with
elderberries, crushed sage and wild mint. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
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Big Basin 2011 Rattlesnake Rock Syrah (Santa Cruz Mountains). Prevalent black pepper
scents swirl alluringly with leather, air-dried meats,
tea and blackberry fruit on the nose. It’s light, vibrant and peppery on the palate as well, making it a
refreshing wine that also delivers a hefty, satisfying
flavor profile. —M.K.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $55
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Chasseur 2012 Syrah (Russian River Valley).
Tannic on the entry, this wine evolves softly
into balanced overtones of leather and cherry, representing the more restrained and elegant side of
Syrah that’s possible in cooler pockets of the Russian River Valley when the grapes are put in good
hands. A peppery bite to the finish adds intrigue.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $40
93
Heintz 2012 Syrah (Sonoma Coast). From
the Heintz Vineyard, well-known for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, comes this compelling Syrah. A burst of toasted oak and dry tannins upon entry develops slowly into a taste of ripe, black fruit,
black olives and tar. Surrounded by a soft palate the
wine is also marked by a starkness of black pepper
and hint of lavender. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $46
93
Margerum 2012 Colson Canyon Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). Ripe black cherries get aromatic lift from sagebrush and thyme on
this wine that Doug Margerum makes from the fruit
of his friend, Reo Reiswig. There is an immediate
zing of acidity, with red and purple fruit flavors that
bounce between raspberry and blueberry while also
picking up mocha, herbs and leather along the way.
A very dynamic wine. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
93
Wrath 2012 Ex Anima Syrah (Monterey). For
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
92
Alta Colina 2011 Toasted Slope Syrah (Paso
Robles). Pleasantly dank aromas of smoldering pine needles, leather and gamy meats hit the
nose on this 2% Viognier coferment. Flavors are
reminiscent of roasted wild boar, with dark chocolate, creosote and beef crust, presented against
grippy, not well measured tannins. —M.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $42
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Big Basin 2011 Coastview Vineyard Syrah
(Monterey County). Bradley Brown’s Syrah
magic shines again on this wine from a vineyard
planted 2,300 feet over the eastside of the Salinas
Valley. The wine is redolent on the nose, with black
pepper, crushed violet and salted pork. It pulls a
tannic punch to the mouth once sipped, with blackberry, leather, heavy-duty tar and persistent pepper. Decant for maximum flavor extraction. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
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Foxen 2012 Toasted Rope Syrah (Santa Ynez
Valley). Billy Wathen and Dick Dore pick this
cofermented blend of 85% Syrah and 15% Viognier
together on the same day. The result is very savory,
with resinous herbs and root beer on the nose. Once
sipped, a rainbow of dark flavors emerges: chopped
Italian herbs, creosote, black olive, fennel, soy and
orange pith, reminiscent of a North African tagine.
—M.K.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $44
92
Law Estate WInes 2011 Intrepid Syrah (Paso
Robles). Winemaker Scott Hawley delivers deep and dark aromas of blueberry and mint
against a backdrop of bacon fat and barrel smoke.
The mouthfeel is rich and lush, with more blueberry plus anise, black licorice and a canvas of minty
herbs that also reveal a touch of bitterness. —M.K.
abv: 16.2%
Price: $65
92
Zaca Mesa 2010 Estate Grown and Bottled
Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). For full review
see page 8.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $25
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Archium 2012 Faction Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). The artistically minded, Rhône-focused
brand from winemakers Ian Sergy and Zach Jarosz
delivers this wine with aromas of black tea, sage and
smashed elderberries. Favors move from raspberry
iced tea to mocha and espresso, all wrapped in deli-
cate but quite present tannins. Drink 2017–2022.
Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
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Cottonwood Canyon 2009 Patience Syrah
(Santa Maria Valley). Cottonwood Canyon
specializes in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, but they
also have three acres of Syrah in their Santa Maria
vineyard. The result in this bottling offers aromas
blending red fruit with minty herbs, like a cherry
cough drop. The wine is fairly lean on the mouth,
representative of a cooler-climate expression of
the grape, with oregano, sour cherry, cranberry
and chalky minerality. The finish is reminiscent of
crème brûlée. —M.K.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $68
91
Harrison Clarke 2010 Cuvee Charlotte Syrah
(Ballard Canyon). From one of the few estate
properties in this new appellation comes aniseflecked aromas of blackberry puff pastry, mixing up
ripe fruit with buttery oak. This is a very approachable Syrah, with dark fruits and pepper spice that
will appeal widely, showing why Ballard Canyon
may be the variety’s best hope for popular acceptance. —M.K.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $55
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Margerum 2012 Purisima Mountain Vineyard
Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley). Retailer-turnedwinemaker Doug Margerum drops aromas of boysenberry-cherry pie with peppercorn crust on this
wine, which slightly predates the Ballard Canyon
appellation creation. The flavors are down the middle, with ripe elderberries, Italian herbs and hops
providing an intriguing, heady mix. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $36
91
Mira 2010 Hyde Vineyard Syrah (Napa Valley).
Rich and thick in leathery blueberry, this
Syrah from the great Carneros-based Hyde Vineyard is a study in full-bodied black licorice and dark
chocolate caramel. Though bigger in style, it retains
acidity and balance. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
91
Muscardini 2011 Unti Vineyards Syrah (Dry
Creek Valley). For full review see page 9. Cellar Selection.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $38
91
Ram’s Gate 2011 Parmalee-Hill Vineyard Syrah
(Sonoma Coast). A special spot for Syrah,
Parmalee-Hill gets plenty of coastal fog and coolness, providing this gamy, silky 100% varietal wine
with structure and buoyant acidity around a balanced weight of tar, black olive and dark cherry.
—V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $62
91
Zaca Mesa 2010 Black Bear Block Estate
Grown and Bottled Syrah (Santa Ynez Valley).
Coming from the first block of Syrah ever planted in
Santa Barbara County, this offers delicate aromas of
cedar, leather and sour cherry. It tends toward the
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BUYINGGUIDE
more sour end of the varietal’s spectrum, perhaps
due to the vine age, with plum skins, fig, menthol
and root beer flavors. —M.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
vineyard until selling it in 2013. The earthy funk
persists on the palate before rounding out toward
olive and sour fruit flavors. A very interesting wine,
but not for fans of traditionally ripe Syrahs. —M.K.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $42
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B Cellars 2011 Caldwell’s Kreuze Canyon Syrah (Napa Valley). This high-octane 100%
Syrah aged in 50% new French oak is intensely
ripe yet interesting in its leathery texture and gamy
traits. Black fruit dominates, from blackberry to
black plum, a dose of black pepper and dark chocolate in there for good, decadent measure. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $53
Campesino 2012 Sangiacomo Old Lakeville
Highway Syrah (Sonoma Coast). From a
cool-climate site inspired by the Northern Rhône,
this tiny-production Syrah is classically swimming
in white pepper spice and crushed herb, the fruit
a bright raspberry accented by smoky meat. With
firm tannins and just a touch of oak, it offers enough
heft and structure to pair well at the table. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $35
Ram’s Gate 2010 Durell Vineyard Syrah (Sonoma Coast). This wine is substantially
sized, a 100% Syrah from a significant coastal vineyard that offers high-octane, soft, juicy black fruit
and chocolate around toasty oak. This is a wine
meant for hearty meals by the fire. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $52
Rusack 2012 Ballard Canyon Estate Reserve
Syrah (Ballard Canyon). Oak aromas lead
the nose on this wine from one of the new appellation’s longest landowners, with smoke and vanilla
wrapped around blackberry fruit. Barrel-related
tannins also feature prominently on the palate,
though deep purple fruit and hot tar make appearances as well. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $36
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Cornerstone 2012 Stepping Stone Syrah
(Napa Valley). From Atlas Peak grapes, this
barrel-influenced, full-bodied Syrah is inky black
and thick in texture, with a meaty character accented by hints of dried herb and anise. Fruit-wise,
expect dark cherry and blueberry. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
Field Stone 2012 Marion’s Block Syrah (Alexander Valley). This 100% Syrah is abundant in juicy blue and black fruit, with concentrated
layers of meat and leather wrapped around its intense core. Ready to enjoy now, it’s ripe yet balanced. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
90
Harrison Clarke 2010 Eve e Marie (Ballard
Canyon). Smoked blueberry sauce and
plum peel tartness characterize the nose of this
75% Syrah and 25% Grenache from the new Santa
Barbara County appellation. It’s straightforward
and nicely balanced on the palate, with black currants and dried sage. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
90
Indigené 2009 Paranthesis Syrah (Carmel
Valley). Deep, earthy aromas of roasted
beet, rhubarb pie, red clay, and ginger bread consume the nose on this wine from Paso Robles-based
Raymond Smith, who entered the wine business via
mobile bottling lines. It’s silky on the palate with
elegantly laced flavors of ripe plum and mushroom,
though the finish is a tad rustic and alcoholic. Serve
with beef stew or oak-grilled steak. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $28
89
Lucky Dogg 2013 Verna’s Vineyard Clone 383
Reserve Syrah (Santa Barbara County). With
aromas of cigar ash, sawdust and horse stable, the
barnyard descriptor gets a new definition on this
wine from Brent Melville, whose family owned this
Ram’s Gate 2012 Syrah (Sonoma Coast).
This chewy, dense and dark Syrah softly intrigues with black fruit and gamy notes. Given 20
months in new and used French oak, it’s structured
and ageable through 2020, a substantial wine with
a sense of elegance around the edges. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $40
Rusack 2012 Ballard Canyon Estate Syrah
(Santa Barbara County). Dark red fruit and
crushed herb scents are served up against a wood
backbone in this wine from Santa Barbara’s newest appellation. It’s saucy with red fruits and smoky
on the palate, a very solid, straightforward bottling.
—M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $27
87
Wellington 2009 Englandcrest Syrah (Sonoma Valley). Dark and lush in plum and licorice, this is soft and brooding, marked by a strong
element of smoky, peppery meat. —V.B.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $20
83
Muscardini 2011 Gracie Creek Vineyards Syrah
(Sonoma Valley). Layers of mint and earth
are slightly out of proportion in this leathery wine,
the finish leaving a somewhat sour taste. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $38
GRENACHE
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Law Estate WInes 2011 The Nines Grenache
(Paso Robles). Intoxicatingly elegant aromas of cinnamon and baking spices laced with
sugared plums and ripe cherries greet the nose
on this heavy-duty take on the grape. The palate’s
first impression is of grippy tannins, with flavors of
chocolate-covered cherries, espresso, leather and
sandalwood running into a long finish. It is a tad
boozy. —M.K.
abv: 16.1%
Price: $85
92
Barton 2011 Mr. Jones Grenache (Paso Robles). Joe Barton, who’s made Grey Wolf
wines since 1994, launched this brand inspired by
pop songs in 2011. This Counting Crows ode delivers aromas of raspberry-laced black tea, clove and
cardamom. It’s soft and inviting on the palate, with
anise, mocha and blackberry flavors that finish with
a wash of tobacco. It was still quite tight after hours
of being opened, perhaps due to the 35% whole
cluster maceration. Drink 2017–2023. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $36
91
Archium 2012 Haven Grenache (Santa Ynez
Valley). Candied cherry, cola, wild mint and
anise swirl into a layered nose on this wine by a duo
of relatively new winemakers, Ian Sergy and Zach
Jarosz. Light coffee, clove-spiced berry juice and
cinnamon-cherry flavors are on the heavily brownspiced palate. —M.K.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
91
Crux 2012 Grenache (Russian River Valley).
This wine also includes 10% Syrah and 10%
Mourvèdre and is treated similarly to the producer’s larger-production GSM blend. With a shock of
menthol on the nose, it veers lean and high in acidity on the palate, a taste of wild strawberry pleasantly consistent around suggestions of earthy game.
—V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $45
91
Stolpman 2012 Grenache (Ballard Canyon).
Syrah is the star of this new appellation, but
Grernache does mighty fine too, in this case offering
aromas of strawberry reduction sauce, black cloves
and cardamom. The palate is heavily laced with
crushed dark spices, ripe red fruits, strong tannins
and mouthwatering acidity. Waiting until 2016–
2017 might make this wine even better. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
88
Standing Sun 2011 Live Grenache (Santa
Barbara County). Lime-laced cherry, cranberry, damp herb and dried violet greet the nose on
this bottling, which explores a more sour side of this
grape. The flavors range from licorice and chopped
olive to cranberry and bitter plum skin. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $20
ZINFANDEL/PRIMITIVO
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Peachy Canyon 2012 Bailey Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). This is a unique and exciting take
on California’s historic grape from one of the region’s pioneering wineries. Aromas recall sour
cranberry, orange peel, strawberry and sagebrush.
It’s savory and herbal on the palate, with baking and
Indian spices of cardamom and chai as well as mocha. Editors’ Choice. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $38
92
Castoro Cellars 2012 Zinfusion Estate Grown
Reserve Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Though
blackberry sauce wafts down the middle of the
nose, this wine picks up more serious gunmetal and
pine aromas as well. Though a bit tight once sipped,
the wine’s Italian herbs and tar elements impress
already and will continue to emerge. Drink 2016–
2019. Cellar Selection. —M.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $24
92
Dashe Cellars 2012 Zinfandel (Dry Creek
Valley). A blend of five vineyards, some of
which go into single-vineyard designates, this is a
well made, structured wine, offering layers of black
cherry and subtle earth around soft, velvety tannins. The finish highlights black pepper spice with
dark chocolate chaser. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
92
Midnight Cellars 2011 Estate Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). For full review see page 7.
abv: 16.7%
Price: $39
92
Zenaida Cellars 2012 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). The nose on this wine from veteran
vintner Eric Ogorsolka is reminiscent of an old-time
closet, with pipe smoke, cedar and plum perfume.
It’s quite woody and elegant on the palate, with
well-integrated fruit, spice and herb characters
suggesting savory plum jelly and prune reduction
sauce. —M.K.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $32
whelming or overdone. Refined in soft tannins and a
core of expressive, juicy blue and black berry fruit,
it is seductive and smoky on the finish, sourced
mainly from vineyards in the Dry Creek Valley. Best
Buy. —V.B.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $15
90
Ridge 2012 Three Valleys Zinfandel (Sonoma County). For full review see page 12.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $26
89
Adelaida 2012 Michael’s Vineyard Estate Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Aromas of anise-laced
blackberry candies emerge from this easy-drinking
wine. Light and airy on the palate for such a richlooking wine, it’s redolent with flavors of cherries
and fennel with a decent tannic backbone. —M.K.
abv: 15.7%
Price: $36
89
McCay Cellars 2011 Trulux Zinfandel (Lodi).
This is a monster Zin, and a very good one.
It has an inky black color tinged with red, strong
dried-fruit flavors like fig, prune and dried cherry.
Along with a smoky, roasted quality on the palate,
it has sandy tannins with lots of grip. Powerful and
almost sweet. —J.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $32
89
Sierra Starr 2010 Phil’s Selection Zinfandel
(Sierra Foothills). An exotic, cedar and eucalyptus aroma blends seamlessly into lavish sunkissed boysenberry and strawberry flavors. It’s a big
wine, full-bodied, firmly tannic, giving an oak-aged
texture and spicy finish, too. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Kokomo 2012 Pauline’s Vineyard Winemaker’s
Reserve Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). Smoky
aromas give this wine allure, its layers of flavor soft
and flowery, accented by red berry fruit. On the
elegant spectrum of the variety, the wine is fairly
subtle, with an evolving cinnamon spiciness to the
finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $32
Uphill Vineyards 2010 Primitivo (Amador
County). This is the strong, silent type, not
a showy wine but one that will drink well with a
dinner full of grilled and roasted meats and vegetables. It feels well structured with tannins and acidity, and tastes restrained in flavor, with subtle cassis
and blueberry notes. —J.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $24
pleasing if not complex nose on this wine from the
Santa Margarita Ranch area on the southern part
of the appellation. There are a lot of tannins, with
expected flavors of blackberry and cedar. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $17
87
Criss Cross 2012 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi).
Tasty, generous and easy to enjoy, this fullbodied Zin smells like blackberries and tastes like
strawberry jam. It gains a little sweet spiciness from
oak and glides through the finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $20
87
Oakville Winery 2012 Estate Grown and Produced Zinfandel (Oakville). Smoke, tobacco
and tar are most prominent in this weighty wine
that’s soft in big blackberry flavor and pungent
earth. Velvety on the palate, it finishes full and ripe,
a perfect companion to barbecue or a sizable cigar.
—V.B.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $25
87
Robert Hall 2012 Zinfandel (Paso Robles).
Rich, ripe red cherry and blackberry fruits
mix with black earth on the nose. The tannins and
acidity are quite present on the palate, where flavors of strawberry leather dissipate quickly. It’s better than overly jammy Zins, but may be too austere.
—M.K.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $18
87
Rodney Strong 2012 Knotty Vines Zinfandel
(Northern Sonoma). From estate vineyards
in Russian River, Alexander and Dry Creek valleys,
this Zin is fruity and smoky in equal measure. The
fruit is slightly jammy in blackberry fruit, followed
by toasty oak and pepper spice. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $25
87
Rosa d’Oro 2012 Primitivo (Clear Lake). Zinfandel by another name, this appealing wine
has cola and cherry aromas, plus snappy cherrycandy and sweet prune flavors. It’s full-bodied and
has lively acidity, a silky texture and lingering finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
Ironstone 2012 Reserve Old Vine Zinfandel
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
Woodenhead 2011 Guido Venturi Vineyard
Zinfandel (Mendocino County). Very bright
fruit aromas like fresh strawberries make this hearty
wine especially appetizing. Firm, almost chewy tannins and vibrant acidity are strong enough to support the rich fruit flavors and bring the wine a great
balance. —J.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $34
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Ridge 2012 East Bench Zinfandel (Dry Creek
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
90
Pomar Junction 2012 Estate Zinfandel (Paso
Robles). The nose is both luscious with
cherry pie and melting vanilla ice cream yet herbally
enhanced with roasting pine wood. Similar flavors
carry the easily likable yet through-provoking palate, which is ripe and well oaked. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $34
Rancho Zabaco 2012 Sonoma Heritage Vines
Zinfandel (Sonoma County). This wine
delivers on richness of flavor without being over-
Kokomo 2012 Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley).
A core of bright red cherry fruit, blackberry
and licorice dance around soft, medium-bodied layers of cocoa and spice. The winery’s larger production Zinfandel (although still under 1,500 cases),
this provides a fantastic entry into both the winery
and Dry Creek Valley Zin. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $28
Ancient Peaks 2012 Zinfandel (Paso Robles).
Tobacco and boysenberry scents make for a
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David Clinton 2011 Unti Vineyard Old Vine
Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). From a new,
small producer devoted to 100% Zinfandel, this
soft, grippy wine offers a hint of menthol on the
nose and muted aromatics. The finish is ripe though
tempered by good acidity. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $29
Ironstone 2010 Reserve Rous Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). A distinct late-harvest character pervades this full-bodied Zin, which has very
ripe aromas of raisins and prunes, and bold, driedfruit flavors, too. The texture is smooth and the
wine is soft and not very tannic. —J.G.
abv: 15.35%
Price: $30
Perry Creek 2012 ZinMan Zinfandel (El Dorado). This tastes full-bore, full-bodied and
WINEMAG.COM | 43
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91
Brecon Estate 2012 Petit Sirah (Monterey
County). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
French oak barrels and is a delicious California version of the Italian classic. Editors’ Choice. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $35
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extra ripe: one of those monster Zins that needs
plenty of animal protein, preferably cooked over a
wood fire, to match the intensity. The aromas and
flavors are raisiny, the high alcohol and tannins
are powerful, and the finish carries heat. Best Buy.
—J.G.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $11
Bruliam 2012 Zinfandel (Rockpile). Light
and linear, this Zin offers muted red fruit
and spice, with a modest finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $38
McCay Cellars 2011 Equity Zinfandel (Lodi).
Not your average Zinfandel, this one could
almost be a Syrah with all its peppery, meaty and
smoky aromas and flavors. They are wild and different but puzzling. The wine is full-bodied, tannic
and almost thick in texture. —J.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $32
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McCay Cellars 2011 Faith Lot 13 Zinfandel
(Lodi). A dense, rich, chocolaty flavor and
smooth, thick texture make this old-school Zinfandel very tempting despite an earthy, leathery vein of
flavor that lasts on the finish. —J.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $32
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McCay Cellars 2011 Jupiter Zinfandel (Lodi).
This big and brawny wine is definitely different, smelling sun-baked and tasting of cherry and
menthol.There is a sawdust quality in the nose, and
a rowdy texture full of tannin and alcohol. —J.G.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $28
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Rubus 2012 Old Vine Zinfandel (Lodi). This
smells earthy and berrylike and tastes like
fresh carrots. It feels slightly sweet, coating the
mouth with sweet-sour flavors. It’s soft in tannins
but full-bodied. —J.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $19
PETITE SIRAH
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Helwig 2012 Petite Sirah (Shenandoah Valley). Very impressive color, fruit concentration and tannic structure add up to an outstanding
Petite Sirah. What’s compelling is that this fullbodied wine seems to get its character purely from
the concentrated and tannin-laden grapes rather
than from new oak barrels or add-ins. This needs
time in a cool cellar to show all its potential complexity. Best from 2016–2022. —J.G.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $35
92
Michael David 2012 Earthquake Petite Sirah
abv: 15%
Price: $26
92
Vina Robles 2011 Estate Petite Sirah (Paso
Robles). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
Criss Cross 2013 Petite Sirah (Clarksburg). For
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
HandCraft 2012 Petite Sirah (California). For
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
Morse 2009 Estate Petite Sirah (Amador
County). A delicious personality of chocolate-covered cherry and cocoa powder comes out
right away in the aroma of this dense and deeply
colored wine, and stays with it through the finish.
It’s full-bodied, nicely tannic, rich in fruit and spicy
oak flavors, but not too too heavy. It should improve
through 2019. —J.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $24
89
McManis 2013 Petite Sirah (California). For
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Vina Robles 2011 Creston Valley Vineyard Petite Sirah (Paso Robles). A good look at the
potential of the soon-to-be official Creston appellation, this opaque wine is scented with pickled cherries, black tea and sour herbal aromas. Balsamic
vinegar leads the palate, which is showing a bit of
age, so drink now. —M.K.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $44
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Winery by the Creek 2012 Reserve Avila Vineyard Petite Sirah (Fair Play). That friendly,
familiar, cedar and cinnamon aroma that comes
from oak barrels jumps out of the glass when sipping this full-bodied and deep-colored wine. It has
gripping tannins that dry the mouth but will work
well with pork, beef and lamb. And it blends in
enough ripe fruit flavor for good balance. Best now
through 2018. —J.G.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $40
87
Ironstone 2012 Petite Sirah (Lodi). This wine
is very smooth and easygoing for this usually tannic grape variety. Still it has a rather deep
color, attractive, fresh blackberry aromas, lots of
juicy berry flavors, and moderate tannins to give it a
bit of heft. It is medium-bodied and ready to drink.
Best Buy. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
SANGIOVESE
91
La Chertosa 2012 Reserve Sangiovese (Sonoma Valley). Sonoma Valley stalwart Sam
Sebastiani returns to the winemaking fold with this
small-production Sangiovese. A juicy study in robust, powerful tannins and fresh plum, it has a trace
of anise on the back of the palate. Blended with 8%
Petite Sirah and 4% Malbec, it spent a year in older
Muscardini 2011 Cypress Ranch Sangiovese
(Napa County). For full review see page 12.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $36
Muscardini 2010 Monte Rosso Vineyard Sangiovese (Sonoma Valley). The hearty red
wine from a historic, well-known vineyard exhibits
tart dried-cherry notes around a deeper, darker core
of tea and tobacco, the finish rich in savory herbs.
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
87
Pedroncelli 2012 Alto Vineyard Sangiovese
(Dry Creek Valley). This affordable Cal-Italian wine from a good vintage year dances in tart red
cherry and cranberry atop dense tannins and leanings of chocolate and coffee. A rare find in the appellation, it’s worth a try. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $16
RED BLENDS
93
Big Basin 2011 Grizzly G-S-M (Monterey-Santa Cruz). Black and white pepper splash all
over the aromas of the otherwise cherry meringuedriven nose of this blend of 39% Grenache, 33%
Syrah, 26% Mourvèdre and 2% Viognier. It’s light
and airy on the palate, blending fresh strawberry
fruit with a cornucopia of peppercorns. It provides
a great example of how a fun, lively wine can be savorily serious as well. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
93
Big Basin 2012 Homestead (California).
Coming from Monterey and Santa Cruz
vineyards, this blend of 34% Grenache, 23% Syrah,
18% Mourvèdre, 21% Carignane and 4% Cabernet
Sauvignon features notes of plum jam, sagebrush
and root beer. It jumps off the palate with bright
acidity and grippy tannins, delivering ripe berry
fruit and chili pepper spices, enlivening more senses than just tastebuds. —M.K.
abv: 14%
Price: $36
93
Big Basin 2012 Paderewski Vineyard G-S-M
(Paso Robles). This is one of the winery’s
last takes on this vineyard, as they move their focus
to Santa Cruz and Monterey counties. The nose is
blackberry liqueur lifted with chopped black sage,
fennel stalk and tobacco leaf. Flavors run from dark
red fruit to black spices to tartness on the finish,
like a balsamic reduction sauce. —M.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
93
Le Vigne 2011 Âme de la Vigne (Paso Robles).
abv: 14.7%
Price: $39
93
ONX 2012 Reckoning (Paso Robles). For full
review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $45
92
ONX 2012 Crux (Paso Robles). For full review
see page 7.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $45
92
ONX 2012 Mad Crush (Paso Robles). For full
review see page 7.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $45
92
Ridge 2012 Geyserville (Alexander Valley).
Bold flavors and a graceful mouthfeel come
together in this classic, complex and well-balanced
red, made from 71% Zinfandel with other traditional California varieties. The blackberry, sage and
ever-so-slightly earthy aromas continue through
the flavors, where they interlace with firm tannins
and supportive acidity. This could easily improve
through 2019. Cellar Selection. —J.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $38
92
Robert Hall 2012 Meritage (Paso Robles). For
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
92
Workman Ayer 2012 De Facto (Central
Coast). The two-family winery produces a
lovely and layered wine, with aromas of blueberry
extract, wet black tobacco, cinnamon roll, smoked
oak and aromatic herbs. Purple flowers of violet and
lavender come alive on the palate, with licorice in
the midpalate and tartness on the finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $36
91
Archium 2012 Dissident (Santa Ynez Valley).
The dark fruits of blackberry and blueberry
meet up with the greener aromas of damp pine tree
undergrowth and a squeeze of citrus on this blend
of 52% Syrah and 48% Grenache. The light purple fruits on the palate mesh well with all sorts of
herbs, including thyme, oregano and even rosemary.
—M.K.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $34
91
Black Ridge 2010 San Andreas Red (Santa
Cruz Mountains). Highly intriguing aromas
of forest floor, damp pine trees and blackberry reduction sauce power the nose on this blend of 59%
Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 10%
Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 6% Malbec. The flavors are quite broad and welcoming, with purple
and blue fruits, but also herbs of oregano and
thyme. It’s tasty but not showy, a wine that’s happy
in its own skin. —M.K.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $49
91
Crux 2012 G-S-M (Russian River Valley). For
abv: 14.3%
Price: $42
91
Derby 2010 Fifteen 10 Red (Paso Robles).
Named for the vineyard’s address on Live
Oak Road, this tasty blend holds 39% Syrah, 28%
Grenache, 19% Counoise and 14% Mourvèdre. It
delivers aromas of scarlet red rose petals, crushed
clove and cherry pie. The fruit flavors are so deep
they border on blueberry, set against a tannic backbone, yet proving quite light and drinkable. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
91
Derby 2011 Implico (Paso Robles). A wildly
complicated nose introduces this blend of
46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 13% Petit
Verdot, 9% Malbec and 5% Cabernet Franc, with
lavender, violet, licorice and elderberry running
into more astringent woodworm. The flavors are all
purple fruit and cigar box, with wisps of pipe smoke
as well. —M.K.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $32
91
Joullian 2010 Jonquille (Carmel Valley). A
pleasant minty character, somewhere between purple Thai basil and toothpaste, emerges
from this 60% Zinfandel and 40% Syrah blend,
along with strawberry pie aromas. It’s still tightly
wound and tart on the palate, with hints of red and
black licorice that will emerge over time. —M.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $26
91
J. Lohr 2010 Cuvée PAU (Paso Robles). This
Paulliac-style blend of mostly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot presents bright red fruit on the
nose alongside black licorice and traditional cigar
box scents. The flavors are dominated by red cherries with a touch of anise, sprig of thyme and pleasingly brisk finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
91
Peachy Canyon 2011 Para Siempre (Paso
Robles). The nose on this blend is inviting,
somewhere between hot blackberry pie and coffeecrusted beef roast. Those elements persist on the
soft palate as well, which is not overly complicated
but quite nice, with blueberry and cocoa emerging
as well. —M.K.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $55
91
Redwood Ridge Estate 2013 Red (Santa Cruz
Mountains). The winery is owned by Candice
Wozniak, ex-wife of Apple co-founder Steve Wozniak. This nontraditional blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir impresses, with aromas of
ripe berries, wildfire and smoked herbs. The smoky
palate picks up licorice, tobacco, cedar, asphalt and
acai fruit, altogether reminiscent of a blueberry
crusted pork roast. —M.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
90
Calluna 2011 Calluna Vineyards Cuvée (Chalk
Hill). Robust in dry tannins and burly black
cherry and berry fruit, this blend of 40% Merlot
with smaller percentages of Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Malbec is from
100% estate-grown grapes, a well-managed blend
of strength and flavor that’ll age through 2020. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $33
90
Lafond 2010 Lafond Vineyard Syrah-
Grenache (Sta. Rita Hills). This 60% Syrah,
40% Grenache split by winemaker Bruce McGuire
offers red currants, black tobacco and cedar on the
nose. The blend is a rarity for the Pinot-focused region, so take advantage of the boysenberry-like flavors that mix the tart and ripe elements, with a bit
of black licorice for heft. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
90
Longboard 2012 Maverick’s Red Blend (Sonoma County). Inspired by the winemaker’s
longstanding love of surfing, Maverick’s blends
65% Cabernet Sauvignon with 26% Malbec and
9% Merlot. Much of the fruit comes from Alexander Valley. Exotic in nougat and currant, the Malbec adds depth and length, providing a burst of soft
blueberry and lavender with a subtle twist of mint.
—V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
90
Saint Gregory 2012 Pinotrois (Mendocino
County). Delicious fruit flavors and a tangy
texture give plenty of oomph and liveliness. A core
of ripe cherry and tea leaf flavors is shaded by
cinnamon and clove, backed by light tannins and
medium-full body. A rare blend of Pinotage, Pinot
Meunier and Pinot Noir. —J.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
90
Tablas Creek 2012 Cotes de Tablas Red (Paso
Robles). As always, the historic winery produces a nuanced, restrained style, with a subdued
nose of berries and balsamic reduction. It’s light
and bright on the palate, with chicory and woody
tones and medium-ripe cherry fruit, a perfect partner to varied foods. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
90
Viader 2011 Red (Napa Valley). For full review see page 12.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $150
89
J. Lohr 2010 Cuvée POM (Paso Robles). The
nose on the winery’s annual Pomerol-focused blend of mostly Cabernet Franc and Merlot
remains tightly wound, with purple fruit and tobacco just barely poking out. It’s richly textured on the
palate but the dark fruit flavors remain elegantly restrained throughout the sipping experience. —M.K.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
89
Lloyd of Calcareous 2011 Hook Shot (Paso
Robles). Grape Jolly Rancher candies lead
the nose on this ripe blend of 37% Merlot, 28%
Cabernet Franc, 23% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Malbec and 5% Petit Verdot. Aromas of mocha, seared
blackberries and chopped mint arrive as well. Quite
approachable now, the flavors range from grape
juice and dill to blueberry and black spice. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
89
Robert Hall 2013 Cuvée de Robles Red Wine
(Paso Robles). For full review see page 12.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
WINEMAG.COM | 45
BUYINGGUIDE
88
Dunning Vineyards 2011 Estate Bottled Meritage (Paso Robles). Hard grape candies
lead the nose alongside violet flowers and a sharper
element of pencil shavings. The palate on this blend
of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 10%
Cabernet Franc jumps into slightly sour plum skins
and holds throughout, with refreshing acidity and
likable tannins. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
88
En Garde 2009 Adamus (Diamond Mountain). This mountain-grown blend combines a majority of Cabernet Sauvignon with 25%
Cabernet Franc, 12% Petit Verdot, 2% Malbec and
1% Merlot, all given two years in French oak, half
of it new. Rich and generous in sweet red fruit, cocoa and a taste of tapenade, the tannins are soft and
round. —V.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $78
88
Galante 2011 Rancho Galante Estate Bottled
Red (Carmel Valley). Wood aromas of cedar are expertly spliced with purple fruits on this
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petite Sirah
and Merlot. A touch of greenness on the palate gives
those deep purple fruits some depth, but the tannins are quite gripping, and should release more
with time. Drink 2018 onward. —M.K.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
87
Spann Vineyards 2011 Mo Zin (California).
This Zinfandel-based blend has sun-dried
tomato aromas, tart cherry flavors and a firm grip.
Full-bodied and sturdy, it will have no problem
cleansing the palate. Made from 60% Zinfandel,
20% Mourvèdre plus Syrah and Primitivo. —J.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
87
Star Lane Vineyard 2010 Astral (Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara). There’s an extreme
tightness to this top-end bottling from a premiere
vineyard in this newish appellation. The nose is
very lean with dark spice, blueberry and purple
fruit, and the palate is extremely tannic, making any
other flavors fall away. Only time will tell whether
the wine is a success. —M.K.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $80
86
Galante 2012 Grand Champion (Carmel Valley). Beet juice, squeezed elderberry and
marjoram aromas cut through the reductive nose.
Flavors pull in various directions, toward ripe purple fruit, then toward tarry tannins. This will benefit from shelf time. —M.K.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $75
84
Black Box 2013 Red Elegance (California).
abv: 13.8%
Price: $25/3 L
88
ONX 2012 Brash (Paso Robles). This blend
of 70% Zinfandel, 15% Petite Sirah, 10%
Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Syrah from the Templeton Gap is scented with cherry candies, crushed
rocks and black licorice. The flavors aren’t quite so
bombastic, with blackberry and chalk. —M.K.
abv: 15%
Price: $45
88
Petrichor 2012 Les Trois Red (Sonoma
County). From a small vineyard site above
the Russian River Valley planted to Alban-clone Grenache and two clones of Syrah, this blend of 54%
Syrah and 46% Grenache is tightly wound in cranberry and strawberry, unfiltered and given time in
entirely neutral French oak. Made by Duncan Arnot
Meyers of Arnot Roberts, it is bright in acidity and
balanced throughout. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $48
87
Ancient Oak Cellars 2011 Sappho Berger Vineyard (Sonoma Mountain). This Merlot-based
blend also contains Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc and offers tastes of currant, spicy plum
and tobacco around an oaky core. The rich, woody
components are well-integrated on the palate and
accented by mint and dried herb. —V.B.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $75
87
Pure Cru 2010 M. Coz Meritage (Napa Valley).
A heady perfume of rich plum and red berry
liqueur opens into a world of softly textured flavors
that follow suit. The majority is Cabernet Sauvignon with sizable proportions of Cabernet Franc
and Merlot. The finish is quite ripe. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $125
OTHER REDS
91
Equinox 2009 Bartolo Petit Verdot (Santa
Clara Valley). Black as night in the glass, this
wine—which come from the Mann Vineyard—is
evened out with 13% Merlot and spent 30 months
in American oak. Brown spice, black cherries and
oregano power the palate along with notes of dried
cherries and tobacco. It’s drinking quite nicely right
now. —M.K.
abv: 13%
Price: $36
88
Castoro Cellars 2012 Whale Rock Vineyard
Estate Grown Reserve Tempranillo (Paso
Robles). A strongly fragrant nose blends deeply
purple fruit and even blueberries with violet and
lavender crème brûlée. The tannins are chalky and
prevalent, and the purple fruits persist amidst tantalizing brown and black spice, combining into a
long-lingering finish. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
88
Fort Ross 2010 Fort Ross Vineyard Pinotage
(Sonoma Coast). From budwood brought
over from South Africa, the owners’ home country,
this coastal Pinotage is earthy and dry, its personality leaning toward gamy black pepper and herb.
—V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $48
88
Haka by Labyrinth 2012 Petit Verdot (Paso
Robles). Nearly opaque in the glass, this
heavy-duty wine smells of blackberry extract and
old leather. The palate is all dark red fruit with a bit
of cola, yet the tannins are extremely strong. Hold
till at least 2017. —M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $26
88
Toccata 2011 Barbera (Santa Barbara County). The fresh nose on this rare Central
Coast Barbera combines violet, Bing cherry, plum
jam and minty black sage. There palate is less exciting, but does deliver strong purple fruits and spicy,
lively acidity. —M.K.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
87
Bell Springs 2012 Dolcetto (Santa Barbara
County). This Italian varietal wine was made
outside of Austin, Texas with Santa Barbara fruit.
Aromas mostly rely on the barrel, with oak and
smoke prevalent. The easy-drinking flavors emphasize red fruit, proving light but with enough tannic
backbone to pair with Texas barbecue. —M.K.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $24
87
Haka by Labyrinth 2012 Tempranillo (Paso
Robles). Sweet woodsmoke with herbs, like
a sagebrush wildfire, mixes with distinct scents of
marinara sauce on this Spanish varietal bottling.
The mouth-drying tannins are a bit strong, so hold
at least until 2017, but the herb-focused flavors
of licorice, dill, fennel and tomato are promising.
—M.K.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $26
85
Buena Vista 2013 The Count’s Selection Pinot Meunier (Sonoma County). Typically
a blender, this Pinot Meunier is lightly textured
before delving into smoky cedar and forest fire aspects, akin to gamy meat. Intense on the palate, the
fruit recalls tart apple. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $36
85
Panaro Brothers Winery 2009 Barbera (Paso
Robles). There’s a sour nose on this bottling
from a family winery in Ventura, with cranberry,
burnt orange and dried leather. It’s rich and more
appealing on the palate, with pressed figs and kalamata olive. —M.K.
abv: 12%
Price: $24
ARGENTINA
CHARDONNAY
90
Bodega Catena Zapata 2011 White Bones
Adrianna Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendoza). Dusty, oaky nectarine and apricot aromas are
smooth and clean. This is full in body, with a layered stone-fruit-driven palate that’s showing good
body and bright acidity. Flavors of nectarine and
peach are lightly toasted and bring a note of vanilla,
while the finish is round and mellow. Drink now.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $125
90
Salentein 2012 Plot N°2 Single Vineyard
Chardonnay (Uco Valley). Classy aromas of
pear, stone fruits and resiny but controlled oak lead
to a pure, moderately woody and balanced palate
that delivers ripe apple, melon and peach flavors
along with oak backing. Vanilla and walnut flavors
grace a nicely textured, creamy yet lively finish.
Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
89
Bodega Catena Zapata 2011 White Stones
Adrianna Vineyard Chardonnay (Mendoza).
Tropical fruit aromas combine with the scents of
apricot and dust to create an almost Moscato-like
bouquet. The juicy, citrusy palate carries orange
and spiced-apple flavors. A hint of toast and residual resiny oak drive a juicy, pulpy finish. Winebow.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $100
pithy and a touch bitter on the finish. Drink right
away. TGIC Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
stone fruits finish almondy and bitter. The Country
Vintner-Craft and Estate. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $21
87
83
and Bottled Torrontés (Mendoza). For full
abv: 13%
Price: $11
86
Altocedro 2014 Abras Torrontés (Cafayate).
Light lemon-lime aromas are simple and
clean. Ditto the palate, which is standard and holds
steady. Flavors of pithy citrus, almond skins and lychee finish fast, with an oily character taking over.
Drink immediately. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
85
85
84
85
Ferllen 2013 Chardonnay (Mendoza). Oily
white-fruit and oaky, resiny aromas of
spearmint are severe. This is a round, waxy feeling wine with a pulpy palate. Flavors of citrus and
orange peel run long and woody. SPW Importers.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Andeluna 2013 1300 Chardonnay (Uco Valley). Oily and pungent on the nose, this has
a sweaty element to go with citrus aromas and flavors. As it opens, grapefruit and licorice gumdrop
flavors emerge, with a toasty oak note coming up
late. San Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Ferllen 2013 Torrontés (Mendoza). Mango
and lychee aromas get this mature white going. A pulpy, round palate holds orange, apricot and
quince flavors, while the finish is fairly full in size
and mouthfeel. Drink immediately. SPW Importers.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Finca El Origen 2014 Reserva Torrontés (Salta). Lightweight tropical fruit aromas are
fresh. The palate, however, is more oily and pinched,
with briny melon and tropical flavors that lack pop
and specificity. Saltiness and mild bitterness carry
onto the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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82
81
Alfredo Roca 2014 Fincas Chardonnay (Mendoza). Flowery, tropical aromas might have
you thinking this is Torrontés. The palate is flimsy
and dilute, with lychee and pyrazine-driven flavors
that tail off in bitter fashion. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
Finca Don Carlos 2013 Calathus Roble Chardonnay (Uco Valley). Heavy oak aromas
of vanilla and toast are dominant. Resiny oak and
pulpy citrus characteristics drive the palate, which
tastes of vanilla and salty orange. It offers a pickled,
woody, almost sour finish. Hand Picked Selections.
—M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $22
80
Domiciano de Barrancas 2014 Cosecha Nocturna Chardonnay (Mendoza). Damp and
sweaty, this offers mealy citrus aromas, a heavy palate and a mix of bitter-finishing citrus and nuttiness. Face to Face Wine Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
TORRONTÉS
87
Kaiken 2014 Terroir Series Torrontés (Salta).
Round, tropical-fruit aromas are plump and
easygoing. This is a fat, somewhat oily Torrontés
with flowery flavors of lime and papaya that turn
Recuerdo 2013 Torrontés (La Rioja). On the
heels of two better vintages, this comes
across oily, hard and nutty, like Torrontés tends to
be when it is losing freshness. An oily, nutty-tasting
flavor profile mimics the nose, and the finish is bitter, tart, pithy and citric. Bespoke Collection. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
Salentein 2014 Killka Collection Torrontés
(Uco Valley). Aromas of rubber flooring and
vague chemicals override tropical fruit scents. The
palate lacks flow, while flavors of oily melon and citrus fruits turn bitter, oily and soapy on the finish.
Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
81
Tomero 2013 Torrontés (Mendoza). An oily,
muscular nose is musky and a touch flowery.
In the mouth, this is aggressive and hard, with briny
apple, citrus and green flavors. A cidery finish has a
sour note to it and sharp acidity. Blends Inc.. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
SAUVIGNON BLANC
84
O. Fournier 2013 B Crux Sauvignon Blanc
(Uco Valley). Citrus peel, melon and peach
aromas are ordinary. This feels pithy and citric,
while flavors of white grapefruit and underripe
Bodega Atamisque 2013 Serbal Sauvignon
Blanc (Tupungato). The palate shows modest citric acidity which sets up a flavor profile of
sulfur, grapefruit and tangerine. Pyrazines and bitterness run roughshod on the finish. Wine Bridge
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
83
Verum 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Alto Valle del
Río Negro). Prickly, sweaty aromas include
matchstick and herbaceous green-fruit notes. In the
mouth, this is chunky yet citrusy. Flavors of grassy
citrus trend toward green, while a pithy, citric finish
is bitter. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
83
and Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza).
Soft, bland aromas of applesauce and herbaceous
green fruits lead to a jumbled, acidic palate that’s
awkward and scouring. Green flavors of lime and
grass finish tangy. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
OTHER WHITE WINES
85
Bressia 2011 Lágrima Canela (Mendoza). Extremely oaky and resiny, this offers aromas
of wood grain, resin, vanilla and sawdust that crowd
out any fruit that might seek to escape. The palate
feels heavy and resiny, with flavors of wood, vanilla
and coconut, but again almost no fruit. This is 70%
Chardonnay and 30% Sémillon. Kysela Père et Fils.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
82
DiamAndes 2013 de Uco Viognier (Uco Valley). Flat peach aromas introduce a chunky,
grabby palate with flavors of baked apple, brine and
walnut. DiamAndes USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
80
Durigutti 2014 Moscatel (Mendoza). Harsh,
nutty, oily aromas lack purity and elegance.
Mealy citrus flavors lead to a heavy, citrusy finish.
Elixir Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
ROSÉS
84
Tapiz 2014 Alta Collection Malbec Rosé
(Mendoza). Tire rubber aromas and raw
red-fruit notes lead to a heavy palate with acidic
grab. Red apple, raspberry and plum flavors finish
citrusy. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
82
Vicentin 2013 Blanc de Malbec (Mendoza).
This oak-aged rosé barely offers any fruit on
WINEMAG.COM | 47
BUYINGGUIDE
the nose. In the mouth, it’s heavy and woody. Nutty,
peachy, melony flavors are flat, yet the finish shows
acidity. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $NA
81
Kunza 2012 Extra Brut Private Collection
Tannat-Malbec Rosé (Mendoza). Red in color,
with aromas of trail dust, baked beans and cooked
berries, this is a heavy sparkler without much pulse.
Flavors of jumbled berry fruits and brown sugar are
baked and backed by a sweet, cloying finish. G&G
Trading Company. —M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $14
80
Gauchezco 2014 Clasico Malbec Rosé (Mendoza). Red in color, with red-apple aromas,
this has a barely acceptable mouthfeel and raw,
sour flavors of raspberry and citrus. Mountain West
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
SPARKLING ROSÉS
85
Santa Julia NV Brut Rosé (Mendoza). Simple
raspberry and strawberry aromas are primary in nature and friendly. On the palate, this
lightly bubbled wine shows pomegranate, raspberry
and rhubarb flavors, with a mild and yeasty finish.
Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
84
Alma Negra NV Brut Nature Rosé (Mendoza).
This salmon-colored, no-dosage bubbly is
peachy, dusty and yeasty on the nose, with strong
whiffs of sulfur and scrambled egg. A clunky, foamy
palate comes across as clumsy, while peach and
melon flavors are a touch bitter and mealy. Papaya
and savory barbecued notes drive the finish, which
has a bitter element. Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
84
Reginato 2011 Celestina Método Tradicional
Rosé of Malbec (Mendoza). Sulfur, burnt
matchstick and powdered sugar aromas make up
the bouquet. This Malbec-derived sparkler is round
and full, with a light bubble bead. Heavy, sweettasting stone-fruit flavors finish melony and sugary
sweet. Vine Connections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
83
Baja Tanga NV Sparkling Sec Cuvée Rosé
(Mendoza). Candied, dusty aromas turn
sweet and soapy if given time. The sugary feel to
the palate stops just short of cloying, while candied
raspberry, watermelon and brown sugar flavors end
with milk chocolate and sweet red-fruit notes. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
MALBEC
93
Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Argentino
Malbec (Mendoza). Jammy and mineral-
smelling at the same time, this Malbec exhibits an
ideal set of plum and berry aromas. The palate is full
but juicy, fresh and alert. Raspberry, currant, toast
and spice flavors finish elegant and long, with no
break-up in the wine’s totality. Drink through 2022.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $135
oaky aromas. In the mouth, this benchmark Argentinean Malbec is tight and structured, with no
flab or excess weight. An exotic mix of blueberry,
cassis and Middle East spices finish long, with oakdriven lemony snap. Drink through 2020. Winebow.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
93
91
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91
Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Nicasia Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). Laser-like cassis
and black cherry aromas come with an accent of
toasted oak. A pure, well-balanced palate isn’t at all
pushy or heavy, while snappy, fresh flavors of raspberry and spiced plum finish racy, toasty and the
slightest bit herbal. Drink through 2022. Winebow.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $120
SignoSeis 2011 The Angel Oak Celestial Barrel Fermented Malbec (Valle de Uco). For full
review see page 5.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $75
92
Bodega Catena Zapata 2010 Adrianna Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza). This stylish wine
opens with a floral, perfumed, high-altitude bouquet that shows red currant and raspberry aromas.
Like the nose, the palate is fresh and not ponderous.
Crisp raspberry and cassis flavors finish with freshness and elegance. Drink through 2020. Winebow.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $150
92
Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). Lush black-fruit and marzipan aromas show notes of tobacco, cedar and leather. This
is a ripe, layered Malbec with serious depth and
balance as well. Intense currant and berry flavors
are spicy and finish with muscular framework and
length. Drink through 2019. Terlato Wines International. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $50
92
Lamadrid 2012 Single Vineyard Reserva Malbec (Agrelo). A heady but attractive bouquet of marzipan, balsam wood, blackberry, cassis
and raisin introduce a loaded but well-balanced,
full-bodied palate. Toast, chocolate and black fruit
flavors finish with additional spice, chocolate and
lustiness. Drink through 2019. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
92
Zolo 2011 Black Malbec (Mendoza). Stately
dark-fruit and lemony oak aromas fold in
notes of shoe polish and fine wood. The wine has an
alert yet ripe mouthfeel with tannic grip and depth.
Oaky, loamy flavors of blackberry, toast and baking
spices finish with modest heat and flavors of nutmeg and black pepper. Drink through 2019. Vino Del
Sol. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $40
91
Bodega Catena Zapata 2011 Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec (Mendoza). Meaty, minty
scents accent core cassis, jammy blackberry and
Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2012 Chento Vineyard
Selection Malbec (Mendoza). This concentrated, midnight-black Malbec delivers the aromatic goods in the form of charcoal, grilled meat and
blackberry scents. An extracted palate benefits from
core acidity, while black cherry, cassis and blackberry flavors come to rest on a rich but controlled
finish. Drink through 2018. Terlato Wines International. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Familia Cassone 2011 Obra Prima Coleccion
Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Ripe, deep
aromas of cassis and marzipan evolve to show
minerality. A big, chunky palate features flavors
of baked blackberry, cassis and chocolate, while a
mild, somewhat languorous finish is chewy and
leaves a lasting taste of prune. Drink now through
2018. Bedford International. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $43
91
Raffy 2010 Grande Réserve Malbec (Tupungato). Aromas of pencil lead and lemony oak
vie with jammy, raisiny scents. This is a live-wire
wine with energy flowing across a jumpy palate.
Ripe cassis and blackberry flavors show a licorice
note, while the finish is concentrated at first before
breaking up and showing some heat. Drink through
2018. USA Wine West. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $39
90
Lagarde 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Lightly
floral and smoky up front, this features
bright red-berry aromas and similar flavors of raspberry and currant resting on a fresh but layered palate. Narrowing tannins are not too fierce, while oaky
notes of clove, pepper and toast drive the finish.
Drink through 2018. Andes Importers, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
90
Salentein 2011 Plot N°21 Single Vineyard
Malbec (Uco Valley). Plum, blueberry and
graphite aromas along with a mild horsey, grassy element define the nose on this single-vineyard Malbec that’s jammy and a touch soft on the palate. Flavors of blackberry, prune and raisin are dull-edged,
while the finish is baked and raisiny, with a slight
hint of overripeness. Drink through 2016. Palm Bay
International. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
89
VinEcol 2009 Los Medanos Reserva Malbec
(Mendoza). This is a textbook Deep Purple
special: huge berry, menthol and violet aromas create a hefty, lusty bouquet. In the mouth, it is more
narrow than you might hope for, with staunch tartaric acidity. Jammy berry flavors are big but stan-
dard, as is the finish. Drink through 2018. Metropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
88
Salentein 2013 Portillo Estate Bottled Malbec (Uco Valley). For full review see page 15.
Best Buy.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
88
Tamarí 2012 AR Malbec (Mendoza). Black
olive, Band-Aid, latex and meaty berry aromas emerge from a reduced nose. Tannic, hard and
crimped on the palate, this requires as much air as
you can give it. Gamy berry flavors are salty and
finish with an herbal note. Terlato Wines International. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
87
Capataz 2009 Malbec (Mendoza). This is a
heavy, pushy, ultraripe Malbec with lots of
oak, toast and heat on the nose. A full, grabby palate is tannic as nails, while baked black fruit flavors come with resiny oak and lemon-peel notes. A
minty, herbal tasting finish is hard as granite. Darioush Winery. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
87
Mascota 2012 ROD Malbec (Mendoza). Big,
dark, minty aromas include resin, clove and
blackberry. The palate is easygoing and plump, with
plenty of weight and extraction. Earthy, baked flavors of blackberry become more salty and spicy on
the finish. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
87
Pascual Toso 2013 Estate Bottled Malbec
(Mendoza). This oaky number offers enough
meaty fruit to keep itself on an even keel. Gritty berry and sawdust aromas lead to a full-bodied, resiny
palate. Woody, drying flavors rest heavily atop a
core of medicinal, herbal berry fruit. It’s ripe and
resiny on the finish, which is consistent with what
came beforehand. TGIC Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
87
Santa Ana 2012 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza).
This chunky Malbec opens with a blast of
blackberry aromas and graphite. The palate is jammy and not all that firm, with bold berry and plum
flavors that stay solid across a fruity palate that finishes toasty and with an echo of jammy blackberry.
LCF Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
87
Valentin Bianchi 2013 Elsa Bianchi Malbec
(Mendoza). Crisp cherry tomato and plum
aromas turn more dark and grapy with airing. Jammy yet fresh and easy on the palate, this quaffable
Malbec delivers simple berry flavors along with
an exotic note or two. A short finish falls off fast.
Quintessential Wines. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $12
87
Valle Las Nencias 2011 Reserve Malbec
(Mendoza). This opens hot and heavy, with
pounding berry aromas and a touch of animal fur.
The palate is full and compact, with jammy, syrupy
berry and woodspice flavors. A long finish tastes of
licorice and oak. Matadorvino LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
86
Enrique Foster 2009 Reserva Finca Castro
Barros Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). Gritty, stalky
aromas are leathery and hot. In the mouth, this
single-vineyard Malbec is choppy and hard. Flavors
of stalky berry fruits are good but unexciting, while
the finish is toasty but not complex. Dreyfus, Ashby
& Co. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
86
Kaiken 2011 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza).
Hot on the nose, with earthy berry aromas
and touch of animal fur, this is a rich wine with a
blanket-like mouthfeel. Concentrated, almost stewy
flavors of spice and chocolate-infused blackberry
finish oaky, chocolaty and medicinal. TGIC Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
86
Layer Cake 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). This
opens with blueberry and sandalwood aromas that turn murky. Tannic and hard as a rock,
this shows rooty, baked, ultraripe flavors of prune
and berry in front of a raisiny finish. Vintage Point.
—M.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
86
Septima 2012 Malbec (Mendoza). Primary
berry aromas blend earthy blackberry and
a hint of minty green. The palate feels jammy and
slightly reduced, while flavors of blueberry and boysenberry come with a light hint of green herbs that
carry onto the finish. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
86
Tamarí 2013 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza).
Rubbery berry, leather and animal aromas
precede a bright, lean, juicy palate. Wiry plum flavors shows an herbal, peppery side, while the finish
is fresh, hot and oaky, with a peppery, lasting flavor.
Terlato Wines International. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
85
Belasco de Baquedano 2013 Llama Old Vine
Estate Bottled Malbec (Mendoza). Crisp
aromas of red-apple skins show a note of paint/rubber cement. This smacks down with firm tannins,
while berry flavors are generic and exhibit hints of
prune and blueberry. This is mildly raisiny on the
finish. Cabernet Corporation. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
85
Eugenio Bustos 2011 Altivo Vineyard Selection Malbec (Uco Valley). Lightly roasted,
stalky and gamy on the nose, this is a big, rubbery,
astringent Malbec with berry and baking-spice flavors. Heavy, hot, and sticky, it blasts at full volume.
USA Wine West. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
85
Red Rock 2012 Reserve Malbec (Mendoza).
Aromas of plum, berry and Band-Aid come
up on the nose. This is wiry, acidic and tannic in
feel. Pinched berry flavors ride roughly on a wave of
punchy acidity, while the finish is hard and tannic,
with loamy berry leftovers. E & J Gallo. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
85
Ricardo Santos 2009 El Gran Malbec (Mendoza). Horsey, overripe aromas don’t convey a sense of balance. As the nose indicates, this
comes across heavy and syrupy, with blocky tannins. Stewy flavors of blackberry and prune finish with hard tannins. Global Vineyard Importers.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
84
Bodega Goulart 2011 Clásico Malbec (Luján
de Cuyo). Stalky, oaky and rustic on the
nose, this is a creamy, woody, resiny Malbec with
oak-based flavors of plastic and vanilla along with
slightly stewed, baked fruit. Clove and medicinal
flavors are prominent on the finish. Opici Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
84
Chakras 2012 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza).
Jammy berry aromas are medicinal and
show a note of animal fur. A rubbery, bouncy palate is lively but lacks finesse, while herbal raspberry
and red-plum flavors finish medicinal and herbal,
much like the nose and palate. Pacific Highway
Wines & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
84
Deumayen 2009 Trez Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Rubbery, leathery aromas become
stalky and gritty with airing. This is hard, tannic
and acidic on the palate, with burnt, gritty flavors
of roasted plum and herbal berries. A tannic finish
lacks nuance. VOS Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
84
Graffigna 2012 Centenario Reserve Malbec
(San Juan). Stalky plum and berry aromas
are standard, with a blocky feeling palate that’s
softened by creamy oak. Herbal plum and berry flavors disappear quickly on the finish. Pernod Ricard.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
84
Manos Negras 2013 Malbec (Mendoza).
Damp, rubbery berry and hickory aromas
lack ease. This offers a rubbery, midlevel palate-feel
along with roasted, herbal flavors that carry heat.
The finish is chunky in feel and tastes herbal as well
as salty. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
84
Region 1 2013 Malbec (Mendoza). Lightly
floral berry aromas show their best out of
the chute. A direct, angular palate is crisp, with
mild tartaric scour. Dark plum and berry flavors are
WINEMAG.COM | 49
BUYINGGUIDE
short, as is the finish. Pampa Beverages LLC. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
84
Santa Julia 2013 [+] Malbec (Mendoza).
Dense berry aromas are a bit flat and medicinal. Expect a juicy, direct palate with hard plum
and berry flavors that are also a touch briny/salty. A
full finish loses its fruit fast, leaving ringing acidity
and a lasting briny flavor. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
83
Bodega Carmine Granata 2011 Estate Bottled
Malbec (Mendoza). This opens with off-putting aromas of cinnamon and air freshener. On the
palate, this is chewy and creamy, with a ton of oak
and jammy, baked berry flavors that finish sticky.
Tarasi Wineries. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
83
Quara 2013 Estate Bottled Malbec (Cafayate). Rough and rugged is the best way to
describe this Malbec. Earthy, woody, rubbery berry
aromas lead to a sharp, high-acid palate. Wiry, fiery
plum-like flavors stay fierce and pick up heat on the
finish. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
82
La Puerta 2013 Estate Grown & Bottled Malbec (La Rioja). Earthy, leafy berry aromas
are murky in general. This is narrow and acidic in
feel, with salty, dry-fruit flavors. It finishes with tomato and hard-spice flavors. EcoValley. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
82
Santa Julia 2013 Made with Organic Grapes
Malbec (Mendoza). Rudimentary cherry and
berry aromas are foxy. A rubbery, pinched palate
has a tannic, skins-related feel. After a quick shot
of jumpy red-fruit flavors, this turns bitter on the
finish. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
80
Massimo 2013 Malbec (Mendoza). Stalky,
grassy, burned-out aromas are off-putting.
A creamy palate struggles for balance, while the
flavor profile is outright weedy and bitter. Delicato
Family Vineyards. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
90
Bodega Norton 2012 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Baked, ripe, meaty and
dark, with an herbal note, this powerful, solidly
built Cab has hard tannins and a firm structure.
Ripe berry, cassis, herb, nutmeg and rooty sweetness vie for attention on a flavor profile that tails
off oaky, chewy and ripe. Drink through 2019. TGIC
Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
90
SonVida 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Lightly baked, rooty aromas of berry
fruits come with notes of charcoal and toast. This
is layered, deep and creamy in feel, with firm tannins waiting in the wings. Ripe berry and cassis flavors mixed with notes of tobacco and carob finish
with nutmeg, chocolate and other flavors from the
bake shop. Drink through 2020. Kysela Père et Fils.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
89
Finca Decero 2012 Remolinos Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Agrelo). Aromas of
asphalt and grilled steak accent berry and cassis
scents. This hits hard on the palate, with no mercy
to the tannins. Flavors of cherry and cassis come
with notes of desert sage and chocolate. Drilling tannins last through the finish. Drink through
2020. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
88
Bodega Catena Zapata 2012 High Mountain
Vines Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Rubbery berry and cassis aromas are a touch reduced.
This is round in feel, with creamy oak covering
hard tannins. Spicy, herbal berry and currant flavors lead to a finish that is slightly minty and green.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
Cruz Alta 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Foresty, lightly herbal berry aromas come with oaky char and toast notes. This feels
a bit wide and flat. Flavors of herbal plum and cassis
finish with gritty tannins and scratchy burn. Total
Wine & More. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Septima 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Concentrated berry aromas are basic
but full and pleasing, with a hint of pastry popping
up. A snappy, crisp, drying palate houses lightly
herbal plum and currant flavors, while the finish
is juicy and tastes a bit herbal and spicy. Aveniù
Brands, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
86
Bodega Renacer 2013 Punto Final Estate
Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza).
Spicy oak, clove and berry and black-plum aromas
define the nose on this woody number. The palate is
tannic and clampy in feel, while oak-driven flavors
of spice overrun the wine’s fruit. Clove and cinnamon notes along with heat remain on the finish.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $17
86
Mascota 2012 ROD Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). Fiery oak and resiny aromas
derive from the barrel. Monster tannins create a
gritty, tough mouthfeel, while flavors of blueberry,
blackberry and cassis fade toward minty oak on the
finish. Saranty Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
86
Salentein 2012 Portillo Estate Bottled Cabernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Black-fruit
and toasty aromas are simple yet direct and fresh.
This Cab shows crisp, lip-smacking acidity, which
yields an equally crisp, medium-bodied palate with
herbal berry flavors that finish lean and tight. Palm
Bay International. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
85
Tapiz 2013 T Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Hard-driving plum and cherry aromas
are a touch rubbery. This Cab is wide on the palate
but not all that dense or strong in the middle. Ripe,
grapy flavors of black plum and cassis finish toasty
and tannic. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
85
Tupun 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon
(Tupungato). Bold, inky aromas of boysenberry, shoe polish and dark spices belie a choppy
palate that’s home to generic, slightly briny berry
flavors that are pointed due to sharp acidity. A hard
finish is a bit rough and hot. Craveiro Importers.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
84
Fabre Montmayou 2013 Phebus Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mendoza). Simple berry and
plum aromas are ripe and expand with airing. That
same airing dulls down the palate, leaving basic berry flavors that finish short and rubbery, with almost
no follow through. Saranty Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
84
Gardel 2012 Colección Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). This unusual rendition of Cabernet is grassy, light and floral up front, with blueberry aromas. A jammy but flabby palate houses
red-fruit flavors and a modicum of spice. There’s
heat and a cocoa flavor to the finish. Frontier Wine
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $18
84
Lexicon 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Berry aromas come with an oaky, lactic
whiff of plastic. A scratchy palate is fruity but awkward, with generic plum and dark-berry flavors. Fig
cookie and chocolaty flavors control a blocky finish.
Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $10
83
El Esteco 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon (Calchaquí Valley). This Salta Cabernet is closed
on the nose, green and smelling like cigar ash. Hard,
green tannins and astringency create a tough environment for stewy flavors. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
83
Region 1 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Briny cherry and raspberry aromas offer
up a note of tire rubber. Muddled cherry and berry
flavors finish short, and overall this wine lacks character. Pampa Beverages LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
MERLOT
87
Fabre Montmayou 2012 Phebus Reserva Merlot (Mendoza). Bold berry aromas are full,
earthy and leathery. This is a forward, full-bodied
Merlot with black-fruit flavors and strong notes of
rubber and chocolate. A plump, loud finish is more
herbal than what comes before. Saranty Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
86
Domaine Jean Bousquet 2013 Made With Organically Grown Grapes Merlot (Tupungato).
Dry, spicy, leafy aromas of cherry and plum are reserved. The palate is tight, bordering on astringent.
Flavors of raspberry, plum and cherry show a spicy,
oaky side, while the finish is toasty before hollowing
out. Domaine Bousquet. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
85
Tilia 2013 Merlot (Mendoza). Spicy plum
and candied oak aromas control the nose.
The palate delivers a blend of raw acidity with buttery oak on top, while flavors of herbal plum and
pepper are scratchy and finish herbal, spicy and low
on fruit. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
83
Don Leta 2013 Reserva Merlot (Mendoza).
Aromas of tomato leaf, baked beans and
stewed plum set up a narrow, pinched palate. Flavors of herbal raspberry and red plum have a green,
minty component that starts early and carries onto
a dry, raw finish. Terroir Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
CABERNET FRANC
93
El Enemigo 2011 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary
Single Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Mendoza).
This is the best Enemigo Cabernet Franc to date. It’s
pure, heady, powerful juice with integrated smoky
oak and spice aromas. Pure in the mouth, this is
dense and full of quality. Blackberry and chocolate
flavors are ripe and modern in style, while the finish is full, leathery, a touch salty and savory. Drink
through 2019. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $110
92
El Enemigo 2011 Gran Enemigo Agrelo Single
Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Mendoza). This is
top-notch Argentine Cabernet Franc. Savory, exotic, oaky blueberry and blackberry aromas set up a
bold palate with ample acidity and modest tannins.
Berry flavors and oak spice are the key flavors, while
a buttery oak note and a pinch of salt rise up on the
finish. Drink now through 2018. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $110
89
Salentein 2011 Numina Spirit Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Uco Valley). This is the first
high-end Cab Franc from Salentein, and it’s very
nice despite showing overt, minty green aromas
and a soupy note. The palate feel is more plump
and chunky than hard and concentrated. Flavors of
herbal, leafy, briny berry fruits finish warm, oaky
and leafy. Drink through 2017. Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
BONARDA
87
and Bottled Bonarda (Mendoza). Powerful
black-fruit aromas are dusty and minerally, with a
rubbery component. A loud, juicy palate is jacked
up with acidity, while red-berry flavors are wild and
full of energy. This is an intense bistro wine to drink
with a burger or flank steak. Vino Del Sol. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
86
Tupun 2013 Bonarda (Tupungato). Toasty,
minerally, peppery aromas get this bright,
red-alert Bonarda going. Berry, black plum and currant flavors are backed by toasty oak, while the finish is bright, active and juicy. Drink with steak or
burgers. Craveiro Importers. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
85
VinEcol 2013 Made With Organic Grapes Bonarda (Mendoza). Wild berry and meaty
sausage aromas introduce a creamy, concentrated
palate. Jammy cassis flavors have a peppery edge,
while the finish is toasty at first, transitioning to
bitter. Metropolis Wine Merchants, Inc. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $10
84
Ruca Malen 2013 Yauquen Bonarda (Mendoza). Strong berry and horsey aromas set the
stage for a fruity palate braced by a shot of acidity.
Blackberry flavors are a touch funky and finish hot
and big. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $13
RED BLENDS
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Mendel 2012 Unus (Mendoza). With oakdriven aromas of mocha, coffee, cedar and
berry fruits, this blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot is effusive on the nose.
Concentrated and huge, but well balanced, it offers
high-volume berry, herb, chocolate and spice flavors—the lynchpins of excellent wines. Spicy, long
and elegant on the finish, this is the real deal. Drink
through 2021. Vine Connections. Editors’ Choice.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
92
Revancha 2011 La Gran Blend (Mendoza). Revancha is a new line of wines from esteemed
winemaker Roberto de la Mota. This blends Malbec,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Cab Franc.
On the nose, it is spicy, lightly herbal and deep in
fruit. A tight palate shows raw tannins and flavors
of wild berry and oak-based coconut. Dry, flashy
and a bit rough on the finish, this will benefit from a
few more years in bottle. Drink through 2020. McClellan Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $33
91
Las Vertientes 2013 Benchmark Reserva
(Mendoza). Aromas of balsam wood, marzipan and ripe blackberry are focused and generous.
Chewy tannins hold the palate together, while flavors of herbal, spicy cassis and black plum come
with chocolate and baking spice notes before finishing thick but focused. Drink through 2018. Vino Del
Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
88
Durigutti 2012 Reserva (Mendoza). Loamy,
ripe berry aromas come with leather and
raisiny notes. This blend of five grapes is heavy,
tannic and weighty, but not overtly out of balance.
Stewed berry and raisiny flavors are as ripe as they
can get and still stay somewhat fresh, while the
finish is raisiny. Overall this is a one-dimensional,
fully ripe wine. Elixir Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
88
Lagarde 2012 Guarda Blend (Mendoza). This
blend of Malbec, Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah opens with oak-driven aromas of hard spices and
briny berry fruits. The palate is wiry and juicy in
feel, with pointed acidity. Baked berry flavors plus
strong notes of clove and nutmeg finish spicy, with a
lasting blend of cocoa and saltiness. Martin & Company Wines Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
88
Las Vertientes 2013 Benchmark (Mendoza).
Ripe, loamy black-fruit aromas come with
notes of wood smoke, pastry and raisin. The palate
feel is sticky and heavy, with more than enough extraction. Flavors of concentrated blackberry, cassis
and blueberry are bold but lack finesse, while the
finish is dense, jammy and blocky. Drink sooner
rather than later. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
88
SignoSeis 2012 The Angel Oak Assemblage
Reserva (Valle de Uco). Reduced aromas of
lemon peel, blueberry and cardamom are exotic,
while the palate is juicy, insecure and rings around
wildly. The flavor profile is front-loaded with juicy
berry fruits, and the back end is wiry and a touch
sour. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot
and Malbec. Argentinean Wines, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
87
Altocedro 2012 La Consulta Select (Uco Valley). Ripe yet herbal-smelling blackberry
and plum aromas come with notes of gum drop,
dried cheese and leather. This is fat feeling and low
on definition; flavors of prune and stewed berry are
nearly overripe, while the finish tastes roasted, savory and leathery. Malbec, Cabernet, Tempranillo
and Syrah is the blend. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $29
WINEMAG.COM | 51
BUYINGGUIDE
86
Amalaya 2012 Malbec Blend (Salta). Exotic,
floral berry aromas come with a covering
of lactic, pasty oak. This Malbec-heavy blend feels
jammy and wide, with moderate acidity. Chunky
berry flavors taste herbal and roasted, while the finish has a baked quality and loamy wild berry flavors.
Hess Family Wine Estates. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $16
85
Layer Cake 2012 Sea of Stones (Mendoza).
Black currant and plum aromas include
toasty notes with hints of crushed brick and clove.
The palate immediately registers as syrupy and soft,
while the flavor profile centers around roasted, savory, barbecued flavors that finish meaty and loamy.
This is a ripe wine made from Malbec, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Vintage Point.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
84
Graffigna 2012 Centenario Elevation Reserve
(San Juan). Herbal berry aromas come with
a note of asphalt before veering toward eucalyptus.
The palate is acidic, so much so that it pushes the
wine’s flavors toward salty and tart. Generic berry
flavors pop up on the finish once the wine’s tartaric
acidity subsides. Pernod Ricard. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
83
Chakana 2013 Estate Selection Red Blend
(Mendoza). Rubbery, medicinal aromas suggest iodine and latex. This blend of Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah is heavy and flabby, with
baked, herbal flavors that finish saucy and show
notes of tomato and fennel. Kysela Père et Fils.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
83
Verum 2012 Los Cisnes Coalescence (Alto
Valle del Río Negro). Leathery, rubbery aromas are pinched, stalky and unripe. This Patagonian blend is drawing and astringent, with bland,
cool-climate red-berry flavors that have an herbal
streak. Saucy, tannic and heavy on the finish, this
ends with a note of salami and fennel. Vino Del Sol.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
OTHER RED WINES
89
Finca Decero 2011 Remolinos Vineyard Mini
Ediciones Petit Verdot (Mendoza). Floral
aromas of violet and black fruits include an oakdriven scent of plastic. In the mouth, this PV is
plump and widespread, maybe even a bit flabby.
Flavors of salty, leafy, spicy berry and black cherry
are dry, meaty and toasty on the finish, with subtle
tannins. Drink through 2016. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $38
88
Zuccardi 2011 Q Tempranillo (Mendoza).
Spicy, earthy aromas of dark fruits turn
more charred and lemony as this opens. The palate
is plump, full-bodied and oaky. Flavors of buttery
oak, toast, peppercorn and baked berry fruits finish
woody and drawing. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
of muted fruit tones. Terlato Wines International.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
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Cicchitti 2011 Sangiovese (Mendoza). This is
rusty in color, with rooty, leafy aromas. Saturated and syrupy, it reflects Mendoza’s warm terroir. Ripe flavors of cola nut, caramel, baking spices
and berry fruits finish rich, creamy and chocolaty.
The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
Ruca Malen 2011 Reserva Petit Verdot (Mendoza). Blackberry, licorice and fig aromas
precede a tannic, rock-hard mouthfeel. This becomes more woody, herbal and exotic as it unfolds
on the palate, which is dark and bullish, with a
toasty, menthol-heavy finish that’s grapy and hot.
Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
SPAIN
WHITE WINES
RIOJA
89
Muga 2013 Barrel Fermented (Rioja). Crystal-clear aromas of green apples and minerals come with a slight dash of oak. This is barrelfermented Viura (with 10% Malvasia), but there’s
nothing woody or overtly barrel-dominated about
the wine, which is tight and citric on the tongue,
with tangerine, green apple and nectarine flavors
that finish racy and tart. Fine Estates From Spain.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
88
Vallobera 2013 Javier San Pedro (Rioja).
Fleshy aromas of melon and apple fold in
a few crumbs of vanilla cookie. This Viura feels
healthy and balanced, with white-fruit flavors accented by tropical notes and green herbs. On the
finish, lettuce and lime flavors hold steady. Drink
now. Axial Wines USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
85
Bodegas Muriel 2013 Vendimia Seleccionada
Blanco (Rioja). Oily matchstick aromas are
gritty and stalky. On the palate, this shows proper
acidity and good overall feel. Flavors of lime, grapefruit and persimmon show mildly bitter pyrazines,
while the finish is citric and controlled by a lime
character. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
84
Bodegas Valdemar 2013 Conde de Valdemar
Finca Alto Cantabria Fermentado en Barrica
Viura (Rioja). Dusty vanilla and bland white fruit
aromas introduce a round, oaky palate housing
wood-infused flavors of citrus and stone fruit. The
finish is resiny and briny, with oak sitting on top
CVNE 2013 Monopole Viura (Rioja). This
Viura is a bit lacking in aromatic freshness;
it smells pinched and earthy. A tangy, acidic palate
is helpful in terms of mouthfeel, while stalky flavors
of white fruits are modest and turn bitter on the finish. Europvin USA. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Dinastía Vivanco 2013 Vivanco Viura-Malvasía-Tempranillo Blanco (Rioja). Sweaty,
pinched aromas are more alarming than inviting.
The palate of this three-grape blend follows the
nose and is angular and sharp. Flavors of green fruit
and sour white grapefruit finish with borderline
scouring acidity. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
84
El Coto 2013 Viura (Rioja). Musky melon and
pear aromas are simplistic on the nose. A
weighty palate with citric acidity sets up tangerine
and nectarine flavors that turn pithy and bitter on
the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
84
Finca Nueva 2013 Fermentado en Barrica
Viura (Rioja). Slightly mealy apple aromas
drive the nose. This wine is disjointed on the palate
but contains lively citric acidity. Flavors of lemon,
orange and briny gooseberry finish a touch bitter
and tart. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
83
Marqués de Cáceres 2013 Satinela Medium
Sweet (Rioja). Dusty tropical fruit aromas
are scratchy and rough on the nose. Lemon-lime and
powdered sugar flavors are not cloying due to vital
acidity, while the finish is pithy and bitter at first,
then sugary sweet. Vineyard Brands. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $9
81
Bodegas Franco-Españolas 2013 Royal Viura
(Rioja). The aromas are grassy and oxidized.
The palate is narrow and tangy, while flavors of
green melon and lime finish slightly stalky. Vision
Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
RUEDA
88
La Soterraña 2013 Eresma Sauvignon (Rueda). Aromas of almond skin on top of minerally apple are nice yet somewhat neutral. Bright
on the palate, this is a clean version of Sauvignon
Blanc showing citrus, apple cider and melon flavors.
A mellow finish with modest acidity is just refreshing enough. Solstars Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
87
Naia 2013 Las Brisas (Rueda). Floral, whitefruit aromas are mild on the nose. Citrus,
melon and tropical fruit flavors ride on a balanced
palate showing brightness without being sharp or
scouring. The weighty finish of this Verdejo, Viura,
and Sauvignon Blanc blend shows presence but
isn’t too heavy. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
86
Bitácora 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Melon and
lime aromas are a touch creamy and leesy
on the nose. Overall, this is fresh on the palate, with
apple and melon flavors holding steady, while citrus
peel and a hint of lime drive the finish. Drink now.
Tri-Vin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
85
Bodegas Copaboca 2013 Gorgorito Verdejo
(Rueda). Friendly melon aromas are a touch
dusty on the nose. A plump, round mouthfeel is appropriate for melon, lime and green banana flavors
which finish soft and a bit dilute. Drink now. Vinaio
Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
apple notes leading to a short finish. Europvin USA.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
which turn pulpy and bitter on the finish. Hidalgo
Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 11.7%
Price: $15
81
82
Emina 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Rueda). Yellow
in color, the nose is soapy, with odd notes of
shampoo and yeast. The palate is adequate, with
tropical fruit flavors which fall flat and bitter on the
finish. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
RÍAS BAIXAS
90
Val do Sosego 2013 Albariño (Rías Baixas).
Apple and stone fruit aromas are fresh and
direct, not wayward, leesy or creamy. This is a layered, somewhat complex Albariño, with fresh flavors of lemon curd and white peach. A dry, classy,
wet stone finish is elegant and emphasizes the positives of the variety. Saranty Imports. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
Leirana 2011 Finca Genoveva Albariño (Rías
Baixas). Waxy peach and nectarine aromas
are unfocused on the nose. Stone fruit and citrus
flavors turn stalky and oxidized on the finish. Peninsula Wines. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $46
81
Terras Gauda 2011 La Mar (Rías Baixas). Yellow in color, with less-than-fresh aromas,
this past-its-prime white is made mostly from the
rare Caiño Blanco grape. Flavors of pineapple, persimmon and white fruit finish briny and disjointed.
Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
RIBEIRO
85
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85
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Legaris 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). Citrus peel,
nettle and cactus aromas lean toward
green and peppery in character. The palate follows suit showing bell pepper, lime and citrus pith
tones evolving to a bitter finish. Drink now. Aveniù
Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
Naia 2013 S-Naia Sauvignon Blanc (Rueda).
Aromas of passion fruit, citrus and green
leaf tones follow through to a juicy palate showing
lightly vegetal flavors. The finish is mellow in feel,
with grassy, green notes. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
Telmo Rodríguez 2013 Basa (Rueda). Dusty
aromas of unripe melon and apple are pyrazinic. A bit of spritz greets you on the palate, while
flavors of green citrus run heavy and pithy. Vintus
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Blanco Nieva 2013 Sauvignon Blanc (Rueda).
Pungent and sweaty on the nose, the palate brings a heavy mouthfeel showing pithy flavors
of citrus and almond skin. Frontier Wine Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
83
Rodriguez Sanzo 2013 Viñas Sanzo Viñas Viejas Verdejo (Rueda). A mix of stony melon
and grassy aromas show dully on the nose. The palate is blocky, with hollow white and green fruit flavors leading to sour and bitter notes on the finish.
Vinamericas Selections. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
82
Marqués de Irún 2013 Verdejo (Rueda). This
wine brings stalky aromas of white fruit
tones on the nose. The palate is sharp, with brined
Vieira de Plata 2013 Silver Scallop Albariño
(Rías Baixas). Leesy, powdery aromas of
melon, papaya and vanilla set up a citrusy palate
that’s fit and well cut. Citrus and nectarine are the
key flavors, followed by a fresh and juicy citric finish. Vinamericas Selections. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
Adegas Terra Santa 2013 Albariño (Rías
Baixas). Aromas of generic stone fruit drive
the dusty bouquet of this wine. A tight palate deals
nectarine and orange flavors in front of a persistent
juicy finish. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
La Cana 2010 La Caña Navia Albariño (Rías
Baixas). Floral and melony up front, with a
round, soft palate, this ready-to-drink wine offers
apple and mango flavors backed by peachy notes.
Drink now. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $39
Terras Gauda 2013 O Rosal (Rías Baixas). Yellow in color, with floral and white fruit aromas, this wine is a touch blocky on the palate but
overall is fine in terms of feel and balance. Flavors
of nectarine and tropical fruit finish a bit oily and
heavy. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
86
Pazo de Barrantes 2011 La Comtesse de Pazo
Barrantes Albariño (Rías Baixas). Floral and
tropical aromas are leesy and slightly salty. The palate is oily in feel, with lightly oxidized flavors of
overripe melon and tropical fruit. Drink now. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
85
Bodegas Carballal 2013 Estylo Puro Albariño
(Rías Baixas). Dusty white fruit aromas
come with a hint of matchstick on the nose. The
palate is disjointed, with melon and palaya flavors
Terra do Castelo 2013 Treixadura (Ribeiro).
Dusty peach and apple aromas come with a
mineral component that adds a clean quality to the
bouquet. The crisp acidity cuts through a full palate
of green apple and melon tones and shines through
with a citrus finish. Drink now. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
Viña Costeira 2013 First One Treixadura (Ribeiro). Leesy peach and green melon aromas
are standard but pleasing on the nose. The palate
is fresh, with good body, showing melon and stonefruit flavors. This drink-now wine is friendly and
attractive. USA Wine West. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Terra do Castelo 2013 Selección White (Ribeiro). Powdery notes, bath oil and whitefruit aromas make for a fragrant nose. This is solid
on the palate, with citric acidity and a slight oiliness
to the feel. Flowery nectarine and orange flavors
set up a weighty but fresh finish. Drink now. Hand
Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
87
Viña Costeira 2013 First One (Ribeiro). Peach
and melon aromas with dustings of minerals reflect the Ribeiro region’s cool-climate terroir.
This is a good, honest white blend, with melon and
mango notes driving the palate. Lime and mineral
tones bring balance to the moderate residual sugar.
USA Wine West. —M.S.
abv: 11%
Price: $15
86
Terra do Castelo 2012 Sensación White (Ribeiro). While somewhat neutral on the
nose, a modicum of citric acid creates zing on the
palate. Flavors of almond skin, unripe banana, citrus and dry melon finish juicy but without much intensity. Drink now. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
WINEMAG.COM | 53
BUYINGGUIDE
OTHER WHITE WINES
85
Zagarrón 2013 Garbeo Sauvignon Blanc (La
Mancha). Citrus and gooseberry aromas are
mild but typical of the variety. A basic citrus palate delivers modest tangerine and nectarine flavors
which lead to a mild, pithy finish showing light citric notes. USA Wine West. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
85
Monterebro 2013 Rosado (Jumilla). Strawberry and cherry aromas are sweet and a bit
like Kool-Aid. The palate on this warm-region rosé
is full and chunky, with lots of weight. The berry flavors are a touch heavy, while the finish feels plump
and tastes candied. Drink now. Pacific Estates. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
Felix Solis 2012 Flirty Bird Sauvignon Blanc
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla). There aren’t
many $4 wines out there, but this is actually quite
decent. Yes, it’s a touch flat and creamy on the nose
and the palate is slightly disjointed, but the wine’s
peach, melon and apple flavors are reasonably good.
Drink now. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $4
RED WINES
RIOJA
94
84
Zagarrón 2013 Hacienda Zargón Sauvignon
Blanc (La Mancha). For full review see page
17. Best Buy.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $8
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Monterebro 2013 Blanco Sauvignon Blanc
(Jumilla). Aromas of chewable vitamins,
apples and pine needles set up a plump, soft palate of bland, pithy grapefruit flavors. Pacific Estates.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
ROSÉS
87
Borsao 2013 Rosé (Campo de Borja). For full
abv: 14%
Price: $9
87
Inurrieta 2013 Mediodía Rosado (Navarra).
Raspberry and cherry aromas introduce this
pink-tinted rosé. A chewy, full palate feels round
and balanced, while flavors of briny berry and cherry finish bouncy and good, with a touch of residual
sweetness. Drink now. Vinaio Imports. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
86
El Coto 2013 Rosé (Rioja). This salmoncolored Rioja rosé is fleshy and soft on the
nose, with modest definition and intensity. Citrus,
berry, nectarine and melon flavors cover the full
spectrum of fruits, while the finish is chunky but
holds onto its form. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
85
Laguna de la Nava 2013 Tempranillo Rosado
(Valdepeñas). Generic fruit and chewing
gum aromas don’t come with much definition on the
nose. This is fleshy and just solid enough on the palate, with peach and slightly nutty flavors that indicate the wine is at it’s peak. A sweet-tasting, melon
finish is apropos. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
Sierra Cantabria 2011 Finca El Bosque (Rioja). For full review see page 4. Cellar Selec-
tion.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $145
Viñedos de Paganos 2011 La Nieta (Rioja).
abv: 14.5%
Price: $145
Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia SA
2009 Macán (Rioja). This wine is earthy,
heavyset and reflective of a hot vintage. On the
palate, this is ripe and chewy, with almost syrupy
weight. Showing notes of robust dark chocolate,
with a mix of oak, fruit and tobacco flavors, this inaugural wine from Benjamin de Rothschild and Vega
Sicilia is ripe and broad, but also full of complexities. Drink through 2024. Europvin USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
93
Launa 2011 Ikunus (Rioja). Piercing minerality with pure plum and berry aromas greet
you on a rock-solid bouquet. This thoroughbred
Rioja is racy and juicy, with inky black fruit flavors
over subdued oak. A muscular and minty finish is
full of verve and potential. Drink from 2016 through
2026. Aviva Vino. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
92
Benjamin de Rothschild & Vega Sicilia SA
2009 Macán Clásico (Rioja). Lightly baked
and charred on the nose, this is a well-oaked wine
showing blackberry, cassis and lemon peel aromas.
A saturated, layered palate features loamy blackberry and cassis flavors offset by peppery spice and cocoa dust. Licorice and blackened oak revive a sense
of char on a broad, full finish. Drink through 2022.
Europvin USA. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
92
Muga 2006 Prado Enea Gran Reserva (Rioja).
abv: 13.5%
Price: $62
92
Sierra Cantabria 2011 Colección Privada (Rioja). For full review see page 7. Cellar Selec-
tion.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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Luis Alegre 2009 Parcela N.5 (Rioja). Grapy
smelling at first, this is made from a vineyard located in a Spanish national park. It is tight,
tannic and mildly astringent on the palate, with
high-tension structure. Wild berry flavors are gamey in nature, with spice, tobacco and earth notes
adding complexity. Drink this old vine wine now
through 2022. Vinos Libres. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Bodegas Bilbainas 2006 Viña Pomal Gran
Riserva (Rioja). Roasted berry, black pepper
and mild leafy aromas are true to the region. The
palate is full but not heavy or clumsy; flavors of
earthy berry fruits show a touch of raisin, while the
finish is loamy and smooth. Drink this approachable
wine now through 2018. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $60
91
Castillo de Sajazarra 2008 Reserva (Rioja).
Smoke and leather aromas are matched by
dried red fruit and spice tones. This is racy on the
palate, with a fairly full body. Vanilla and caramel
flavors turn darker and toastier with airing, while
the fruit on this older Rioja favors cherry and currant. Cocoa, tobacco notes with a juicy length define
the finish. Drink through 2024. W. Direct. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
90
Bodegas Muriel 2008 Viña Muriel Reserva
(Rioja). A narrow, hard-driving nose is
oaky and bit low on friendly fruit. Like most from
the vintage, this wine is staunch, grabby and tannic
on the palate. Black fruit with oak and herbal tones
finish with strength and grip. Drink through 2024.
Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
90
Castillo de Cuzcurrita 2008 Cerrado del
Castillo (Rioja). Heavy aromas of stewed
fruit, tree bark, raisin and lemony oak lead to a fully
ripped palate showing astringent tannins and highvolume acidity. Typical the region, this delivers requisite tobacco, classic tomato and dried fruit flavors
that finish wiry, tannic and stressed. Drink through
2025. Vinos Libres. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
90
Montecillo 2008 Cumbre (Rioja). Earthy
berry aromas lean toward sweet, while
a smoky side of the bouquet screams of oak. This
is tight, juicy and raw on the palate. There’s mild
tartness and astringency to the wine’s cherry and
plum flavors, while the finish is fruity around the
edges but lightly bitter tasting in the middle. Drink
through 2023. Osborne USA Inc.. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $59
89
Bodegas Bilbainas 2011 Viña Pomal Crianza
(Rioja). For full review see page 12.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
89
Casado Morales 2006 Gran Reserva (Rioja).
Ripe aromas of roasted coffee and black
fruit filter onto a plump, layered and approachable
palate. Baked berry and licorice flavors finish with a
final dose of char and pepper. Drink this meaty wine
through 2017. Red & White International Brands,
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $48
89
La Antigua 2006 Clasico Reserva (Rioja).
Spice and leaf aromas ride above a mildly
ripe nose. Flavors of roasted plum, spice, wild herb
and tomato finish well, with firm, slightly raw tannins. Drink this blend of 60% Garnacha, 30%
Tempranillo and 10% Graciano through 2019. Ole
Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
89
Montecillo 2009 Reserva (Rioja). Aromas
of smoked cherry, plum, tomato and apple
skin fit the bill for the region. The fresh palate
shows weight, with plum, currant and dry spice
flavors. On the finish, this wine takes on a loamy
weight and a modest raisin note. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
88
Castillo de Cuzcurrita 2008 Señorío de Cuzcurrita (Rioja). Like many from the vintage,
this wine is firm and tough, with rocky tannins and
and a linear palate. Stalky aromas of green tobacco
and berry fruit set up a compact, tight palate of hard
berry flavors supported by abrasive tannins. Drink
through 2025. Vinos Libres. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
88
Contino 2008 Reserva (Rioja). Earth and
dried fruit tones are lackluster on the nose.
The palate is springy and grippy, with plum and currant flavors that lead to oak and resin tones. The
finish is slightly hot, with spice and a lasting green
note. Drink through 2022. Europvin USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
88
Coro 2009 Crianza (Rioja). Earthy aromas of
baked berry and raisin are loamy and sweet
on the nose. This wine is grippy and full on the palate, with a shot of tomato acidity giving balance.
Baked berry flavors ride in front of a moderately
cooked finish. Drink now. Table 31 Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
88
Fernández Gómez 2010 Crianza (Rioja).
Raspberry and strawberry aromas are relaxed on the nose and offer up a hint of lemon peel
and spice. The palate is round and a bit chewy, with
flavors of earthy red berry, oak, dried spice and
chocolate which finish mellow and fairly long. Elixir
Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
88
Montecillo 2010 Crianza (Rioja). Subtle
raspberry and plum aromas are lightly
herbal and traditional for the region. A fresh, medium-bodied palate delivers upfront oak and cocoa
flavors backed by spicy plum and berry fruit tones.
A light, chocolate-dusted note rounds out the finish. Evaton, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
88
Ramirez de la Piscina 2009 Crianza (Rioja).
Saucy berry aromas are jammy and turn
mildly stalky after airing in the glass. A full and
tannic palate is home to flavors of dried berry fruit,
peppery spice and raw oak. Oak tones are persistent
on the finish, but just enough dry raspberry and
plum notes shine through to maintain quality. Jorge
Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
88
Viña Palaciega 2011 Crianza (Rioja). Earthy,
dried red berry aromas are pure and textbook the region. The palate is tight and drawing at
first, then smoother after airing. Berry, oak, spice
and mild herbal notes finish solid and steady. TriVin Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
87
Faustino Rivero Ulecia 2011 Yellow Label
Crianza (Rioja). Slightly scratchy plum and
red berry aromas come with a pleasing herbal note
on the nose. The palate is tight but racy and fresh,
showing flavors of red berry and spice, while the
peppery finish is dry, long and focused. Vinaio Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
87
Solar de Libano 2008 Reserva (Rioja). Aromas of tobacco, vanilla and dried fruit take
on a grassy note after airing in the glass. A cool, wet
vintage for the region yields a slightly astringent
and acidic palate. Flavors of dried plum, cherry and
vanilla carry a tart streak, while the finish is both
earthy and a bit sour. W. Direct. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
87
Vaza 2011 Crianza (Rioja). For full review see
page 13.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
87
Viña Eguía 2009 Reserva (Rioja). Ripe,
earthy aromas of berry fruits and raisins
come with lactic oak and baking spice notes on the
nose. Drying and tannic on the palate, this wine
shows tart flavors of red berry and currant, with vanilla and oak tones leading to a creamy, soft finish.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
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Bodegas Valdemar 2010 Rioja. Earthy aromas of baked berry and red apple skin are
solid but simple. The stark palate is sharp in acidity,
while cherry pie and red plum flavors are fresh but
short lasting. A touch of oaky vanilla rises up on a
zesty, cleansing finish. Terlato Wines International.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
86
Casa Juan 2006 Señor de Lesmos Crianza
(Rioja). Hickory and savory oak aromas are
dominant on the nose, with leather and game scents
on the periphery. The palate is earthy and round,
showing streaks of unabsorbed acidity, while baked,
earthy, dried fruit flavors finish loamy and long.
Drink now. Terraneo Merchants. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
86
CVNE 2010 Viña Real Plata Crianza (Rioja).
Lactic oak-based aromas start out muted
but settle with earthy red berry scents. The palate
is pinched and narrow in feel, with modest berry
notes leading to a slightly bitter finish. Europvin
USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
86
Viña Bujanda 2011 Crianza (Rioja). Crisp,
briary red fruit and tomato aromas are an
appropriate start to a snappy, lightly-oaked palate.
Cherry pie and red plum drive the midpalate, moving to a slightly earthy but basic finish. Winebow.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
86
Xavier Flouret 2009 Fé Reserva (Rioja).
Candied cherry and plum aromas are pleasing on the nose. The disjointed palate falls a bit
flat, showing medicinal berry flavors surrounded by
hard tannins. Cognac One, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
85
Viña Eguía 2010 Rioja. Aromas of tobacco,
vanilla and dried red fruit trend toward
scratchy and chemical on the nose. Oak-based tannins are raw and drying on the palate, with spice
and red fruit tones finishing oaky but hot and hollow. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
RIBERA DEL DUERO
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Telmo Rodríguez 2010 M2 de Matallana
(Ribera del Duero). Everything about this
wine is singing in harmony. The nose is fresh and
pure, with raspberry, plum, spice and youthful rubbery aromas. The palate is elegant and impeccably
balanced, while flavors of vanilla and coconut announce ample oak, with toasty, peppery plum and
raspberry flavors waiting in the wings. Power, precision and elegance are draped all over the finish.
Best from 2017 through 2025. Vintus LLC. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
93
Alidis 2010 Expresión (Ribera del Duero).
Blackberry, raspberry and asphalt aromas
are staunch and gritty. A tight, firm, structured palate is balanced from front to back, while dark berry
flavors are woody, dry, toasty and spicy. The big,
solid, oaky finish is right on the money. Best from
2016 through 2023. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. Cellar
Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
93
Arrocal 2010 Selección (Ribera del Duero).
abv: 14%
Price: $42
WINEMAG.COM | 55
BUYINGGUIDE
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Áster 2010 Finca El Otero (Ribera del Duero).
Pure berry and plum aromas are nuanced by
notes of tobacco, cedar and spice. This wine is tight
and rock solid on the palate, with laser-like focus.
Flavors of plum, blackberry and toasty oak finish
woody, smoky and resiny. Best from 2016 through
2023. Michael Skurnik Wines. Editors’ Choice.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
92
Legaris 2010 Reserva (Ribera del Duero).
Bold, deep cola, lemon peel and exotic spice
and herb aromas are a great intro to a well-built,
saturated, but fairly tannic Tempranillo, with flavors of plum, blackberry and chocolate. Cedar and
spice notes positively influence a layered finish.
Overall this captures the essence of Ribera del Duero. Drink through 2022. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Cellar
Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $36
92
Matarromera 2010 Edición Limitada 25 Aniversario Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). Big,
wafting, fresh aromas are oaky and untamed on the
nose. Round and grippy in feel, the palate brings
dark, oaky, toasty flavors of black fruit, with licorice and chocolate hitting the finish. Best from 2017
through 2024. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $350
91
Convento de Las Claras 2011 Heritage (Ribera
del Duero). Concentrated dark berry aromas
are powerful on the nose, showing a touch reduced
but minerally. The palate on this young Ribera wine
is pure and potent but not fierce. Ripe, loamy blackberry flavors finish muscular, with just enough elegance and grace to confirm the wine’s overall quality. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27
91
Protos 2010 Reserva (Ribera del Duero). Initial charred aromas turn to licorice and black
fruit on the nose. A rigid structure of fierce tannins
provide strength to toasty, spicy berry flavors on the
palate. Vanilla, herb and mocha tones combine with
textural dryness on the finish. Drink though 2025.
Aviva Vino. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
pery note. The finish is deep and solid, with proper
length and mouthfeel. Axial Wines USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
flavors which show potential. Revisit in two years.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
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Dominio de Atauta 2009 Llanos del Almendro (Ribera del Duero). Ripe and dense
from a warm vintage, this wine shows aromas of
cedar, tobacco, black plum and blackberry on the
nose. The baked fruit core is accented by cardamon
and warm spice, then turns oaky and darker in character. Drink through 2017. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $140
Fincas Valdemacuco 2012 Roble (Ribera del
Duero). With cola and dark fruit aromas
on the nose, this value winner shows nuance with
violet tones. The palate is round and full without
being harsh or tannic. Toasty oak accents black fruit
flavors leading to a round, smooth, and fruity finish.
Drink through 2017. CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Monteabellón 2012 5 Meses en Barrica
(Ribera del Duero). Fresh and pure on the
nose, this value-priced wine opens with unwavering guile. A jammy, saucy palate blends acidity with
extracted fruit, while flavors of plum, blackberry
and currant finish mild. This reaches that desired
level of affordable excellence. Drink through 2017.
Europvin USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
Emina 2010 Prestigio (Ribera del Duero).
Broad and ripe, this comes across heavy on
the nose, with fig and chocolate cake aromas. The
palate is huge and tannic but also jammy. Fig, baked
berry and tobacco flavors finish hot and toasty, like
espresso. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
Pagos de Quintana 2011 6 Meses en Barrica (Ribera del Duero). Dusty raspberry
and cherry aromas are ripe on the nose. Wiry and
astringent at first, this wine expands and develops
with time in the glass. Basic berry flavors and a simple finish suggest that this should be enjoyed soon.
Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Viña Mayor 2011 Barrel Aged Tempranillo
(Ribera del Duero). Deep aromas of raisin
and black fruit suggest moderate overripeness on
the nose, and a jammy palate with fairly low acidity helps to confirm that impression. Flavors of rich
blackberry lack acidic cut, while the finish is loamy
and friendly. Drink through 2016. Vinum International. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
Comenge 2012 Biberius (Ribera del Duero).
Roasted, leathery and earthy aromas of red
berry fruits settle on a stewed note. The palate is
grabby and raw, with tomato-like acidity. Flavors of
savory, barbecued fruit suggest grilled red plum and
tomato, while the finish is woody and salty. Beacon
Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
Pagos del Rey 2012 Altos de Tamaron (Ribera
del Duero). Aromas latex and rich plum are
adequate and not offputting. This wine has a fresh
but astringent mouthfeel showing flavors of cherry and plum that settle on an oaky, tannic finish.
MHW, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
89
Monteabellón 2012 Avaniel (Ribera del Duero). Inky blackberry aromas soften with airing and shift toward pastry tones on the nose. This
full wine shows cassis, berry and baking spice on
the palate, finishing loamy and smooth, yet slightly
jammy. Europvin USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
CAMPO DE BORJA
88
Borsao 2013 Garnacha (Campo de Borja).
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
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Señorío de Sotillo 2011 Crianza (Ribera del
Duero). Dense dark fruit aromas show depth,
starting off a pleasant bouquet. On the palate, this
wine is fresh yet lush, with earthy, lightly baked
flavors of blackberry, chocolate and spice. A toasty
note darkens the nuances on the narrowing finish.
Vinamericas Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
Bodegas Fuentespina 2011 Crianza (Ribera
del Duero). Earthy aromas of ripe blackberry and blueberry mingle with a rubber and smoke
accent. The palate is bright, juicy and healthy, leading to dark berry flavors that show a toasty, pep-
Cruz de Alba 2011 Crianza (Ribera del Duero).
Savory aromas of Middle Eastern spice, bacon fat and exotic floral notes pervade on the nose.
The palate is plump, with soft, unstructured tannins and brings flavors of oaky boysenberry, with a
toasty bacon finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
García Figuero 2010 Tinto Figuero 12 Crianza
(Ribera del Duero). Burnt leaf, barnyard,
earth and mulch notes are not exactly pure and
fresh on the nose. Rock-hard tannins dominate on
a gritty, oak-covered palate, however with time in
the glass, this wine displays wood and spicy berry
Borsao 2011 Berola (Campo de Borja).
Scratchy berry fruit aromas come with oakbased accents of vanilla and coconut. This has a
somewhat grippy, resiny mouthfeel along with firm
tannins. The jammy, oaky flavor profile is centered
around plum and berry accents, while the finish is
toasty and medicinal for this 70% Garnacha, 20%
Syrah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon blend. Fine Estates From Spain. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
Quo 2011 Old Vines Grenache (Campo de
Borja). Concentrated on the nose, with
oak aromas that are under control, this Garnacha
is fresh and firm on the palate. Flavors of loamy
berry and cassis are ripe almost to the point of being raisiny. A plump yet dry and spicy finish ends
with oak-based resin and creaminess. The Artisan
Collection. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
87
Bodegas Aragonesas 2012 Crucillón Tempranillo-Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Earthy,
warm berry aromas on the nose avoid being jammy
and overripe. The palate on this everyday blend of
Garnacha and Tempranillo is comfortable and balanced. Short plum and berry flavors shift to slightly
lactic and creamy on the finish. Scoperta Importing
Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
87
Coto de Hayas 2011 Crianza Garnacha-Tempranillo (Campo de Borja). Ripe and oaky
up front, this fruit-forward blend of Garnacha and
Tempranillo is loaded with creamy oak aromas that
suggest plastic and vanilla. Airing reveals a fresh
but plump palate that finishs with plum, berry and
sweet oak flavors—the Holy Trinity of internationally friendly value wines. Scoperta Importing Co.
Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
86
Bodegas Aragonesas 2012 Aragus Made
With Organic Grapes (Campo de Borja). Lemony oak aromas lead basic plum and currant scents
toward a mildly astringent palate. Pinched, rubbery
berry flavors ring around the palate, leading to a
woody finish, with vanilla and spice flavors taking
over. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $11
86
Bodegas Aragonesas 2010 Mósen Cleto Crianza Tempranillo-Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Smoky, saucy dark fruit aromas get this blend of
75% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo off to a good
start. A fresh, medium-bodied palate offers uncomplicated flavors of plum and cherry backed by a
modest, fruity and slightly abrasive finish. Scoperta
Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
86
Borsao 2013 Viña Borgia (Campo de Borja).
abv: 14%
Price: $8
85
Borsao 2013 Monte Oton Garnacha (Campo
de Borja). For full review see page 16. Best
Buy.
abv: 14.5%
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Price: $9
Santo Cristo 2011 Selección Garnacha (Campo de Borja). Raspberry and plum aromas
are a touch lean and medicinal in the bouquet. Crisp
on the palate, with drawing, raw tannins, this wine
shows generic raspberry and plum flavors. The fruit
falls short on the finish, exposing medicinal and bitter tones. Europvin USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
CALATAYUD
and creamy oak flavors. The heavy, chewy finish is
dense and ripe. The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $24
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Bodegas Ateca 2013 Honoro Vera Garnacha
(Calatayud). Rubbery black cherry and
plum aromas are basic but fully ripe on the nose.
The fruity palate is somewhat abrupt and harsh in
feel, with medicinal black plum and berry flavors.
A salty, briny character rises around a slightly hot
finish. Gil Family Estates. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $9
Bodegas Ateca 2012 Atteca Old Vines Garnacha (Calatayud). Oaky on the nose, this wine
shows mint and sawdust aromas that transition to
asphalt and fiery heat upon airing. A dense palate is
loaded with creamy oak, while leaf, mint and berry
flavors finish charred. With 15% alcohol and heafty
oak, this could use another year in bottle to settle
down. Gil Family Estates. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $16
Casa Rojo 2013 Maquinon Garnacha (Priorat).
Herb and leather aromas lean toward green
in character but deliver enough cherry and raspberry tones to bring balance. A full, grippy palate
is a touch raw in feel, while leafy berry flavors are
mildly green, with a note of carob. The full, bold finish comes with heat. Luneau USA Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
Scala Dei 2013 Garnatxa (Priorat). Transparent in color, with a nose that is equally
light and airy, this is a crisp, dry, slightly oaky wine,
with a hard-smacking palate. Red plum, raspberry,
strawberry and currant flavors are subdued, and
lead to a sweet-and-sour finish. Aveniù Brands, Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
87
Lo Nuevo 2012 Sorbo a Sorbo Old Vines Garnacha (Calatayud). Crisp and direct, this
Garnacha delivers good berry aromas on the nose.
Bold acidity creates a fresh mouthfeel, while racy
berry flavors are clean, with a hint of cocoa and
toast on the finish. Vintage Point. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
85
Garnacha de Fuego 2013 Old Vines Garnacha
(Calatayud). Muted black plum and raspberry aromas come with a whiff of latex on the nose.
The palate is tannic and grabby, with oaky berry flavors that turn leathery on the finish. Overall this
Garnacha is full, staunch and designed for everyday
drinking. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
83
Pagos Familia Langa 2012 Real de Aragón
Garnacha (Calatayud). Aggressive on the
start, this Garnacha smells gritty and rough. Overt
oak creates a creamy mouthfeel, while herbal and
green berry flavors finish bitter. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
PRIORAT
90
Alvaro Palacios 2013 Camins del Priorat
(Priorat). Deep and bright on the nose, this
Priorat blend is earthy and ripe. Jammy and full
on the palate, this wine is muscular but balanced,
showing deep black fruit and toasty oak flavors. A
dark finish suggests black coffee and uncomplicated
berry tones. Drink through 2017. Rare Wine Company. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
89
Clos Gebrat 2013 Priorat. Ripe and oaky up
front, a sweet vanilla aroma is redeemed by
darker notes of blackberry and asphalt. Jammy and
full bodied, the palate delivers boysenberry, herbs
JUMILLA
93
El Nido 2011 Jumilla. Rich blackberry and
graphite aromas are ripe and heavy but
magnetic. The palate on this blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Monastrell is extracted
and mega ripe. Baked black fruit, chocolate and fig
comprise the flavor profile on this rich red that tips
the scales as a heavyweight. Drink through 2018. Gil
Family Estates. —M.S.
abv: 16%
Price: $130
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El Nido 2011 Clio (Jumilla). Monastrell
(with 30% Cabernet Sauvignon) has rarely
smelled this perfumed, rich and inviting. This is an
ultraripe Levante bruiser, with a jammy yet defined
structure and huge flavors of baked blackberry,
exotic spice, dusty mineral and toasty oak. Herbs,
espresso and toast flavors propel this rich red to a
lush finish. Drink through 2017. Gil Family Estates.
—M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $45
87
Hilanda 2012 Monastrell (Jumilla). Baked
plum and berry aromas come with notes
of leather. This sun-baked red holds onto its acidity fairly well. Short berry flavors are pushy, while
oak, vanilla, wood resin and leather accents drive
a lively, juicy finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Monterebro 2012 Selección Syrah (Jumilla).
Dark purple in color, this Syrah-led blend
with 15% Monastrell is jammy, toasty, herbal and
minty green on the nose. A muscular, rubbery and
tannic palate features blackberry flavors backed by
a blackened finish of bitter coffee and herbal notes.
Pacific Estates. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
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Bodegas Luzón 2013 Luzón (Jumilla). Gamey
notes with red berry aromas set up a big,
WINEMAG.COM | 57
BUYINGGUIDE
burly, tannic palate. This Monastrell-Syrah blend
deals medicinal plum and berry flavors that come
with a mildly salty aftertaste. This is drying and
lightly herbal on the finish. Aviva Vino. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
fruit flavors that finish astringent. Grapes of Spain.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Monterebro 2013 Joven (Jumilla). Cherry,
red currant and cranberry aromas are pure
and fruity in front of a tight, bold, hard-driving palate. A short blast of ripe cherry and berry flavors
is quickly replaced by toffee and caramel notes,
leading to a jammy finish. Pacific Estates. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
ALICANTE
El Sequé 2010 Monastrell (Alicante). This
purple-tinted Monastrell offers ripe yet cool
aromas of blackberry and cola that run smooth and
long. A deep, bright, juicy palate is weighty but balanced. Dark berry flavors are lightly toasted with
fine oak, while the finish is bold and fruity. Drink
through 2018. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
of a juicy, slightly salty finish. Fine Estates From
Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
85
Venta Morales 2012 Tempranillo (Vino de la
Tierra de Castilla). Plum and berry aromas
are energetic yet a bit crude on the nose. A mouthfeel driven by grapeskins and tannins is raw but
overly astringent. Dark berry flavors lead to a grippy
but fresh finish. Jorge Ordoñez Selections. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $7
VINO DE LA TIERRA DE
CASTILLA Y LEÓN
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Monterebro 2012 Barrica Monastrell-Syrah
(Jumilla). Berry and plum aromas are lightly
earthy, oaky and fiery. A tannic, hard-grabbing palate piles on the astringent tannins, while flavors of
herbal berry and minty plum show blatant oak and
mint-chocolate on the finish. Pacific Estates. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
Panarroz 2013 Jumilla. Floral red berry aromas offer a powdery accent, with a note
of pastry crust. A firm, tight palate delivers a potpourri of red berry flavors. This will work best as
a lightly chilled simple sipper. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
86
Wrongo Dongo 2013 Monastrell (Jumilla).
Ripe, loamy blackberry and plum aromas
precede a grabby but mostly fresh palate that’s
loaded with sweet, basic flavors of spiced black
plum and fig paste. A jammy, warm finish is beefy
in size. Fine Estates From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
85
Caracol Serrano 2012 Tinto Monastrell-Syrah-Cabernet Sauvignon (Jumilla). Scratchy
plum and cherry aromas come with creamy oak
scents. The grippy palate houses harsh tannins,
while plum and berry flavors yield to an overriding
oak character on the finish. Monastrell, Syrah and
Cabernet Sauvignon comprise the blend. Tri-Vin
Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
83
Juan Gil 2013 Honoro Vera Monastrell (Jumilla). Earthy, medicinal plum and berry aromas are also a bit mulchy and leathery in character.
A disjointed, tannic palate brings dry oak, medicinal
berry and green flavors. Chocolate rises up on the
finish of this full bodied Monastrell. Gil Family Estates. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $9
81
Bodegas Silvano Garcia 2012 Viña Honda Monastrell (Jumilla). Raspberry and red apple
skin aromas are lightly herbal and woodsy. The
palate is blazingly acidic and shrill, with tart red
Enrique Mendoza 2010 Estrecho Monastrell
(Alicante). Broad black fruit aromas show
toasty oak and graphite notes in front of a fresh,
fruity, juicy palate. Wild raspberry and boysenberry
flavors come with lemony oak and toast accents,
while the finish is full in fruit yet crisp and precise.
Drink through 2018. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $42
Volver 2011 Triga (Alicante). For full review
see page 9.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
90
Enrique Mendoza 2010 Santa Rosa (Alicante). This Cabernet Sauvignon-led blend
opens with gritty black fruit aromas accented by
licorice, olive and old leather. A racy red fruit palate
has plenty of acidic fuel, while flavors of raspberry,
red plum and spicy oak eventually turn chocolaty.
Fig, herb and tomato flavors add complexity to the
finish. Drink through 2019. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
VINO DE LA TIERRA DE CASTILLA
87
Sinfonia 2012 Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra
de Castilla). Spicy, rugged berry aromas announce a loud palate that’s juicy and brightened
by racy acidity. Wild berry and plum flavors finish
spicy and fairly long, with no difficulties or edginess. Grapes of Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
86
Dominio de Eguren 2012 Codice (Vino de la
Tierra de Castilla). Sweet cherry aromas
turn medicinal on the nose. A bright and lively palate has a fast pulse, while forward berry flavors fade
with spice and mild chocolate notes. Fine Estates
From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
86
Dominio de Eguren 2012 Protocolo Red (Vino
de la Tierra de Castilla). Ripe blackberry and
blueberry aromas come with a shade of spearmint.
Gritty and mildly tannic on the palate, this wine
piles on blackberry and raspberry flavors in front
Dominio Dostares 2010 Cumal Prieto Picudo
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This
is an elevated Prieto Picudo showing aromas of
leather, exotic spice and blue fruit. A woody, mildly
astringent palate brings roasted berry, spice and
carob tones, with a fiery menthol finish. Drink now
through 2019. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $44
Bodega Melgarajo 2011 Tinto Joven Prieto
Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León).
An intriguing brew of raspberry, currant, plum
and earthy spice aromas set up a jammy, fat palate. Leather and meat flavors ride over blackberry
and spice, with a strong shot of game. This proves
that Prieto Picudo can be both wild and appealing.
Enotrends LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
88
Bodega Melgarajo 2011 Valdeleña Tinto
Roble Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de
Castilla y León). Leathery and sinewy on the nose,
with raspberry, plum and smoky aromas, this wine
houses a tight, shallow palate. Flavors of berry and
toasty oak finish woody, with chocolate tones bring
in the length. Drink now. Enotrends LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
87
Dominio Dostares 2011 Estay Prieto Picudo
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Ripe
and cedary on the nose, this Prieto Picudo offers up
a strong whiff of spice cake in front of a grippy and
astringent palate. Heavily spiced berry flavors are
much like Christmas cake, while the finish tastes
earthy and roasted. Opici Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
85
Tridente 2012 Prieto Picudo (Vino de la
Tierra de Castilla y León). This wine shows
earthy and stalky aromas, with a note of spent coffee grinds. An awkward palate is home to a baked,
heavily oaked flavor profile that includes leather
and black fruit flavors supported by gritty tannins.
Gil Family Estates. —M.S.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $30
BORDEAUX
SAINT-ÉMILION
quickly coming together. Ripe berries and a smoky
character give extra interest. Drink now, but it will
be better from 2016. Barton & Guestier USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
wine matures. Solid and dense, it should be drunk
from 2016. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Château Villemaurine 2012 Saint-Émilion.
This solid and powerful wine comes from a
chateau right in the walls of Saint-Émilion. A dense
texture brings out tannins and the wood-aging flavors. Spice, black currant fruitiness and a dark,
dense character all promise aging. Drink from 2018.
Millésima USA. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Clos Cantenac 2012 Saint-Émilion. Big and
bold, this new-wood-aged wine is developing
well. With mint aromas, coffee and toast on the palate and ripe blackberry fruits, it has a good future.
It’s dense, solid and dark in character at this stage.
Drink from 2017. Old Bridge Cellars. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
Château la Révérence 2012 Saint-Émilion. A
blend of 50/50 Merlot and Cabernet Franc,
this is a rich, spicy and perfumed wine. Layers of
wood aging accompany ripe blackberry fruits and
dark tannins. The texture is dense and dark, still
developing. Drink from 2018. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $41
90
Clos Cantenac 2011 Saint-Émilion. For full
review see page 10.
abv: 13%
Price: $75
88
Clos Cantenac 2012 Petit Cantenac (SaintÉmilion). Initially a tough proposition, this
young wine then opens up to bring out ripe blackberry fruits, some solid tannins and a juicy character. It is still firm and dense and needs several years
to age, so drink from 2017. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
Château la Révérence 2011 Saint-Émilion.
Dark, spicy and dense, the wine feels as
though it has been worked too hard during winemaking. There are dark chocolate flavors, and a bitter character. It could soften, although it is likely to
remain tough. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Clos Cantenac 2011 Petit Cantenac (SaintÉmilion). The second wine of Clos Cantenac is already accessible. With spice, black currant
fruits and ripe tannins, it’s both juicy and firmly
structured. The wine is balanced, with great acidity
at the end contrasting with the tannins. Drink now.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
Château Graves de Rabion 2011 Saint-Émilion. Ripe and ready to drink, this attractive
wine has black currant fruitiness and bright acidity.
It’s not a powerful wine, more one that carries its
fruit easily with only a minimum of structure behind it. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
LUSSAC SAINT-ÉMILION
90
Château Bel-Air 2012 Cuvée Jean Gabriel
(Lussac Saint-Émilion). Strong spice and
burnt wood aromas are followed by high toast flavors. The wine is solid, firm and at this stage just
hinting at the ripe fruit underneath, meaning it
needs time to open and broaden. Drink this wine
with its excellent potential from 2017. Total Wine
& More. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
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Les Hauts Croix de Labrie 2012 Saint-Émilion.
Young vines have gone into this fruity wine.
It is full and rich in the mouth, with juicy black currant fruits and smoky tannins. The attractive perfume from Cabernet Franc moves easily into final
acidity. Drink from 2017. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
Château Joly 2012 Saint-Émilion. A rounded,
mint and wood-flavored wine from the plain
of Saint-Émilion between the city and the river
Dordogne. It’s balanced and fruity, with just the
right amount of tannin to sustain the black currant
flavors. It is maturing and will certainly be ready to
drink in 2015. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
86
Barton & Guestier 2013 Passeport (SaintÉmilion). Young, fruity and structured,
this is all about red fruits and firm tannins that are
Château des Landes 2012 Cuvée Prestige
(Lussac Saint-Émilion). Produced from old
vines, this is a new-wood-aged, polished and ripe
wine. With its juicy black fruits and dark tannins, it
is destined for good aging. Spice and a rich texture
are working together to broaden and ripen this wine
further. Drink from 2017. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Château Bel-Air 2012 Lussac Saint-Émilion.
The 74 acres of Bel-Air have produced a
firm while juicy wine packed with both tannins and
ripe blackberry fruits. The structure and ripe Merlot combine easily and suggest good aging. Drink
from 2017. Total Wine & More. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
88
Château Les Combes 2010 Lussac SaintÉmilion. Get past the meaty aromas and this
wine is big, ripe and packed with fruit. The firm tannins are still very present and likely to remain that
way, while the fruit will round out and soften as the
Château Tour de Ségur 2012 Lussac SaintÉmilion. Full of the ripe fruit and structure
of the vintage, this Merlot-dominated wine has big,
bold tannins, spice and a dark, firm structure. The
jammy fruits are developing well, likely to result in
a generous, full-bodied wine from 2017. Deutsch
Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Château des Landes 2012 Cuvée Tradition
(Lussac Saint-Émilion). Dominated by 80%
Merlot, this ripe and firm wine is full of red berry
fruits with a solid, dry core that comes from the
fruit tannins. The tannins are still young, still solid,
so the wine even with its fruitiness needs to age.
Drink from 2016. Kysela Père et Fils. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
LALANDE DE POMEROL
88
Château des Moines 2012 Lalande de
Pomerol. Smooth and perfumed, this is
already drinkable after decanting. With wood aging, dusty tannins and solid black fruits, it is both
rich and forward. The tannins and the acidity both
promise aging, so while it is ready to drink now, it
will be better from 2016. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $29
88
Château Vieille Dynastie 2012 Lalande de
Pomerol. Lalande de Pomerol is the northern extension of Pomerol, so it’s no surprise to find
this wine dominated by Merlot. It is soft, rounded
and rich. Black plums give the fruitiness while black
fruit skins provide the texture. It’s a full wine that
needs a little aging. Drink from 2016. Val D’Orbieu
Americas. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $33
87
Château Tournefeuille 2012 Lalande de
Pomerol. Ripe and fruity, this is an obviously wood-aged wine. The spice and toast need to
calm down and integrate better into the rounded,
generous black fruit flavors. With all the elements
in place, it just needs time. Drink from 2018. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $34
86
Château Tournefeuille 2011 Lalande de
Pomerol. Soft and rounded, this wine is
finely tuned with acidity and blackberry fruits. It
has some firm tannins, although these are well-integrated with the fruit and acidity. This is a wine for
medium-term aging, so drink from 2016. Aquitaine
Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $36
WINEMAG.COM | 59
BUYINGGUIDE
CADILLAC CÔTES DE BORDEAUX
90
Château Courrèges 2010 Cap de Fer (Cadillac
Côtes de Bordeaux). Old Malbec vines form
the basis of this structured, firm and tannic wine.
It has weight and richness, concentrated juiciness
and black fruits that reveal the density and structure of the vintage. While all this power is going on,
the wine also has a style and elegance that can only
improve with time. Drink from 2017. DM Vineyards
& Partners. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
86
Château du Tasta 2009 Grande Réserve
(Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Dense and
richly smooth, this displays all the fruit and generous texture of a 2009. It’s now maturing well with
its blackberry fruitiness, sweet tannins and light
acidity. Drink now and until 2020. Marsalle/Stoler
Company. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
83
Château l’Escart 2012 Cuvée Puits du Roy
(Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux). Strong wood
flavors have smothered the fruit, leaving vanilla,
spice and milk chocolate as the main flavors. Gérard
Laurent blends 65% Cabernet Franc and 35% Malbec from biodynamic and organic vineyards in eggshaped Apollo flexitanks where the wine matures
for a year. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $22
CÔTES DE BOURG
89
Château Macay 2011 Classic (Côtes de Bourg).
Showing some maturity, this wine offers a
typical Bordeaux blend dominated by Merlot, along
with some Malbec to give color and tannin. It’s rich,
fruity and ripe. Black fruits and aromatic acidity are
supplemented by the light wood aging and smoky
character apparent in the aftertaste. Drink from
2016. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
89
Château Tour de Cazelle 2012 Côtes de Bourg.
This dense wine features dark tannins and
rich blackberry and plum fruits that convey a solid
character. The wine is developing well, with tannins merging into the general fruitiness. Age for a
few months more and drink from late 2015. Saranty
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
87
Château Lion Noir 2012 Lion des Aubrots
(Côtes de Bourg). With an unusually high
amount (30%) of Malbec in the blend, this is a
structured, firm wine. A light wood aging has helped
to smooth it out, bringing out the blackberry fruit
flavors. Made from organically grown grapes, it is
dense and needs to age. Drink from 2017. Superior
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR
90
Château du Bois Chantant 2012 Cuvée Laurence H. (Bordeaux Supérieur). For full review see page 14. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
90
Château de Parenchère 2012 Cuvée Raphaël
(Bordeaux Supérieur). Solid and balanced,
this has both great fruits and a great structure.
Dense, rich and layered with tannins and black currant fruits, it has an opulent, ripe character. Drink
this solid, attractive wine from 2017. The Country
Vintner. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
90
Château Feret Lambert 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. With 15 months wood aging, this
is a powerful wood-aged wine. Black currant fruits
from the 39% Cabernet Sauvignon dominate. Soft
tannins are doing a great job of supporting the natural fruitiness, bringing out a good sense of concentration. Warm and ripe, it will develop well. Drink
from 2017 Grantham Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
90
Château Feret Lambert 2012 Costes du Château Feret Lambert (Bordeaux Supérieur).
With a dominance (90%) of Merlot, this wood-aged
bottling is the second wine from Feret-Lambert.
Rich and juicy, it offers soft tannins and full-bodied
black fruits. A firmer structure underneath this ripe
character will allow it to age. Round and generous, it
will be best from 2017. JF Wine Imports. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
90
Château Floreal Lauguens 2012 Bordeaux
Supérieur. For full review see page 10. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
90
Château Grand Jean 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Packed with fruit and lively acidity,
this has a generous character overlying a more serious tannic structure. As they develop, these two
elements are going to coalesce and produce a dense
wine. Wait until 2017. Direct Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
90
Château Mirefleurs 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. For full review see page 10. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13.5%
90
Price: $16
Château Recougne 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Spicy, ripe and fruity, this wine has
enough structure to give shape to the broad black
fruits that are the stars. A smoky element comes
from just the right amount of wood aging. Drink
from 2017. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
89
Château du Lort 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur.
Plenty of ripe berry fruit gives a wine that’s
generous. It has a firmer tannic structure, a dry
character that needs to soften. Bold and rich, it will
be at its best from 2017. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
89
Château Fleur Haut Gaussens 2012 Bordeaux
Supérieur. This balanced, solid wine is dark
with tannins and rich fruits. The juicy, fruity element will take time to manifest itself. Give this
complete wine until 2017. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
89
Château Les Gravières de la Brandille 2010
Bordeaux Supérieur. There is no question
about the richness and structure of this powerful
wine. The 2010 vintage has brought that out in every Bordeaux. Here is shows in the rich blackberry
fruits, the dense tannins and the general ripeness of
the wine. Wait until late 2015 to drink. Val D’Orbieu
Americas. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
89
Château Mirambeau Papin 2010 Bordeaux
Supérieur. While the alcohol is high and the
wine powerful, it has managed to retain its linear,
structured character. The result is a concentrated
wine that also has acidity and a juicy blackberry
fruit character. It does need to age, so don’t drink
before 2016. DM Vineyards & Partners. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
89
Château Saincrit 2012 Réserve (Bordeaux
Supérieur). While the wood aging and toast
do show, this wine is also rich. Black fruits give a
juicy, flavorsome character, an opulence that is finished with some acidity. Drink from 2016. Roadhouse Wine Merchants. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $21
89
Château Sainte Barbe 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Very spicy, this wine is just on the edge
of being too toasty. Luckily, the fruit is there as well,
a rich medley of blackberry and currant flavors that
counterpoint the wood. Wait and drink from 2018.
AHD Vintners. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
88
Château Clos Moulin Pontet 2012 Bordeaux
Supérieur. Eric Meynaud runs this 233-acre
family property, having taken over from his father
in 1998. Ripe, bold and fruity, this solid, dense wine
has layers of black fruits that go with the firmer
structure. Excellent acidity gives a lift to the wine
and leaves a fresh aftertaste. Drink from 2017. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
88
Château de la Cour d’Argent 2012 Bordeaux
Supérieur. While the wine has plenty of tannins, it also has juicy black fruits that more than
balance the structure. It’s a well-made, ripe wine
that has a sweep of fruitiness. From 2018, the tan-
nins will be fully integrated. Specialty Wine Co.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
88
Château de Seguin 2012 Carpe Diem (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe Merlot gives a juicy
character to this rounded wine that comes from the
heart of the Entre-deux-Mers region. The 18th-century chateau is named after one of the lieutenants
who fought with the Emperor Charlemagne. With a
touch of cinnamon and nutmeg, the wine is generous and attractive. The tannins form a solid layer
without impeding the fruitiness. Drink from 2016.
Plume Ridge . —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
88
Château des Arras 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur.
Firm in character, this is also a ripe and
juicy wine with great tannic structure that gives
a solid feel. Berry fruits show strongly along with
juicy acidity. Wait for this wine with potential until
2017. Roadhouse Wine Merchants. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
Château Donjon de Bruignac 2012 Bruignac
Premium (Bordeaux Supérieur). Rich, full of
black currant fruitiness and ripe tannins, this wine
is solid, structured and foursquare in character. The
Donjon of Bruignac, dating from 1300, has been
owned by only two families since then. Drink the
wine from 2017. IPO Wines. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
88
Château Feret Lambert 2012 La Croix (Bordeaux Supérieur). Firm fruits and structure
give a dense, solid character that is rich and full.
Plenty of black fruits are developing as the wine matures. Wait until 2017. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
88
Château la France 2012 Cuvée Gallus (Bordeaux Supérieur). Stern and structured
at this early stage, this wine is developing slowly.
It is potentially powerful and ripe, with its layers
of dark fruits and tannins ready to mature and integrate. Give this solid wine until 2017. Visitors to
the vineyard will see a large metallic sculpture of
a rooster, one of France’s national symbols. Plume
Ridge . —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
88
Château Landereau 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This fruity wine offers attractive acidity and light tannins. It’s perfumed, hinting at mint
and eucalyptus, a wine that is smooth and polished.
Drink from 2016. Hand Picked Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
88
Château Lauduc 2012 Prestige (Bordeaux
Supérieur). This is the top wine from Lauduc, aged for 12 months in wood. It’s solid with dark
tannins, layers of toast that are balanced by ripe
black fruits. Rich and juicy, it needs time to develop.
Drink from 2017. Zachy’s. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
88
Château Queyssard 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. From a property owned by the Massé
family since 1868, the 2012 Queyssard is big and
juicy. Already attractive, it has plenty of fresh acidity as well as dark tannins that will mature. Ripe
fruit contributes to a balanced wine that can age.
Drink from 2016. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
88
Château Timberlay 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Red berry fruits are the dominant character of this full and ripe wine. The judicious wood
aging gives a base for its generous character. Timberlay, dating back to the 14th century and family
owned, is capable of producing a rich and juicy wine
that is going to age well. Drink from 2016. Terlato
Wines International. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
87
Arnozan 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. The wine
is closed up and tough. That’s no bad thing
because the fruit weight is all there. The tannins are
dense at the moment, showing signs of hard extraction, not enough to take away from the potential.
Drink from 2017. PG Imports. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
87
Château de Bonhoste 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. The wine is rich, full of black currant
fruitiness and ripe tannins. It’s solid, structured
and balanced. Produced from 70% Merlot and 30%
Cabernets, it is slow in developing, still full of tannins. Drink from 2017. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
87
Château de Lisennes 2012 Cuvée Prestige
(Bordeaux Supérieur). This structured wine
is slow to show its fruity side, although it has a layer
of acidity with hints of black fruits. At the moment
it is firm and dry, with dense tannins and a dark
aftertaste. Wait until 2017. Grape News Importing.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
87
Château de Parenchère 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Warm and fruity, this is just what
this style of wine should be. Red fruits, soft tannins
and a generous, juicy character are already giving
pleasure. Drink from 2015. The Country Vintner.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
87
Château Haut Bessac 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Ripe and full in the mouth, this rich
wine features juicy black fruits and aromatic acidity. Piled high with berry flavors, it’s ready to drink.
Serendipity Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Château l’Escart 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur.
With plenty of wood flavors, this structured
wine has an almost sweet touch. From biodynamically grown fruit, it has a concentrated character as
well as a more extracted and dry edge that needs
to soften. Drink from 2017. Fruit of the Vines, Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
87
Château La Rose du Pin 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. The tannins are solid here, a dark,
dense and smoky layer that gives a tough feel while
still allowing room for the weight of fruit that is developing. A spicy character at the end adds interest.
Drink from 2016. Laville Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Château Pas de Rauzan 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Firm and dense, the wine is dominated by its tannic structure. The lean and austere
character will probably always remain although
hints of juicy fruits appear at the end. Paustis
Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Domaine du Claouset 2012 Réserve (Bordeaux Supérieur). Black berry flavors are
ripe and rich in this attractive wine that already has
a balance between its acidity, structure and fruit.
It’s also dense and full in the mouth, just supported
by a drier element. Drink from 2016. Fruit of the
Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Avant-Garde 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This
smooth, rich blend is dominated by ripe
Cabernet Sauvignon. Wood aging has smoothed out
the tannic character of the fruits and added an attractive smoky element. It is soft, ripe and ready to
drink. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château Bois de Rolland 2012 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe berry fruits
shine through this wine. Supported by the tannins,
they give a solid and rich character that is beginning to develop. With a dark aftertaste, this wine
has potential and will be best from 2017. Serge Doré
Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Château Brande-Bergère 2012
Cuvée
O’Byrne (Bordeaux Supérieur). Juicy black
fruits give a great start, supported by the tannins
that kick in. Ripe, full of flavor and generous, this
is a broad, full-bodied wine. Drink from 2016. The
Barterhouse. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Château de Bel 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur.
Ripe and juicy, this offers bright acidity and
ripe, soft tannins. It’s a generous wine, full of black
currant fruits and conveying a sweet character. It’s
to drink soon. Wine Warehouse Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château de Bel 2012 La Capitane (Bordeaux
Supérieur). Ripe and juicy, this is perfumed,
full of red berry flavor and attractively soft tannins.
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The wine feels broad and rich, ready to drink from
2015. Joanne Bordeaux USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
suggestions of Merlot and juicy berry flavors, it will
balance out. Private Reserve. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
flavors are developing well, so wait until 2016 for
the wine to come round. Laville Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
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Château de la Vieille Tour 2011 Réserve (Bordeaux Supérieur). The wine is ripe and juicy
with attractive soft tannins. It is generous and warm
in the mouth, a full burst of red berries. It does have
a structure, so it will be better in time. Best to give
it until 2016. The Biz Jar. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
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Château Haut Saint Martin 2012 Bordeaux
Supérieur. With acidity and black fruits,
this is a wine with potential. For now, it is layered
with tough tannins that are suppressing the fruit.
Wait and allow the wine to show its juicy black flavors. Drink from 2017. Vintus LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château Julian 2012 Alter Ego (Bordeaux Supérieur). Ripe and fruity, this rounded, open
wine reveals its fruit quickly. Red berries and soft
tannins complete the character to give a bright wine
that will be ready to drink mid-2015. Misa Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château Lajarre 2010 Cuvée Eléonore (Bordeaux Supérieur). Across the river Dordogne from Castillon, the vineyard of Lajarre is on the
first slope. This soft and ripe wine has black currant
fruitiness, fresh acidity and a judicious use of wood
aging. It still shows the structure of 2010, so will be
better from 2015. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
Cru Lagaillarde 2010 Bordeaux Supérieur. A
seriously rich and spicy wine, heavily structured and dense. It has gone from generous to over
the top, giving a powerhouse of fruit and tannins
that stretches the boundaries of its structure. It’s
for those who like super-rich Bordeaux. DM Vineyards & Partners. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Kirkland Signature 2012 Château de Marsan
(Bordeaux Supérieur). Firm and hard-edged
this wine is currently tough. The fruit—black currant and berry—will bring out the potential richness. It’s structured for the moment, but wait until
2017. Costco. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Vignerons de Puisseguin Saint-Emilion 2012
Champ de Fleuret (Bordeaux Supérieur).
This solid wine is full of tannins while also having
fruit potential. Red berries and acidity are beginning to assert themselves with the tougher tannic
edge. Drink from 2017. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château de Reignac 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This soft wine offers black fruits as
much as tannins. It has a rich feel, generous and
rounded. Developing fast it will be ready from 2015.
K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
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Château Maison Noble 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. The wood shows strongly, giving
a caramel and spice character that dominates the
fruit. The suggestion of juiciness offers a hint for the
future. It does have the weight, so wait until 2017.
Jassal Liquor Distributors. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Château Maucaillou 2012 Château de Beaurivage (Bordeaux Supérieur). While the
wood aging and toast do show, this is also a richenough wine. Black fruits give a juicy, flavorsome
character, an opulence that is finished with some
acidity. Drink from 2016. Duclot La Vinicole. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
Château Ouvrard 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur.
Red berry fruits are attractive against the
backdrop of tannins. The wine has a good juicy element and acidity. The tannins, a little tough at the
moment, will provide a bold and firm structure from
2017. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Château Tayet 2012 Cuvée Prestige (Bordeaux Supérieur). The wine has a tough exterior, firmly wedded to tannins at this stage. With
Château Julian 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur.
Firm and dense, the wine is dominated by
its tannic structure. It has a lean and austere character that will probably always remain, although
there are hints of juicy fruits at the end. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
Château la Croix de Roche 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This is a spicy, ripe wine with some
firm tannins. Black currant flavors and good acidity
give a rich feel, and a jammy element comes from
the ripe fruits. The wine is developing fast, so drink
from 2016. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Château la Favière 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. The wine is all about juiciness and ripe
fruit. It has a good balance between this fruitiness
and the tannins, giving a wine that is open and generous. It is developing fast, so drink from 2016. JP
Bourgouis. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
Château Lamothe-Vincent 2012 Héritage
(Bordeaux Supérieur). This is fruity and
juicy with tannins that are still hard. It will come
together because the fruit is ripe enough. Red berry
Château Mougneaux 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Chocolate and bitter coffee show the
way this wine has been extracted, leaving a hard
edge that currently dominates the red berry fruits.
It needs time to soften, so wait until 2017. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Château Pey la Tour 2012 Réserve (Bordeaux
Supérieur). Black fruits and tannins are
dominant in this tough, reticent wine. With a solid
structure, it’s balanced, with good acidity at the
end. Thiénot USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
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Château Roquefort 2012 Château DomiCours (Bordeaux Supérieur). A fruity wine
that is soft and round, it’s light and bright with its
acidity and berry fruits. It’s not for aging and will be
attractive from 2015. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
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Château Beaulieu Comtes de Tastes 2012
Bordeaux Supérieur. This is fruity, although
somwhat direct in character. It has structured tannins and juicy yet indistinct black fruits. Wine
Warehouse Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château Bel-Air 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur.
This has a curious caramel aroma from the
wood aging. It’s tough and extracted, a powerhouse
of hard tannins without enough fruit. Total Wine &
More. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Château Mirambeau Papin 2009 Papin Petite Verdot (Bordeaux Supérieur). IToo much
wood aging has masked the potential of the juicy
black fruits of this unusual 100% Petit Verdot wine.
It does have weight but that wood is overwhelming.
DM Vineyards & Partners. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
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Château Sainte Marie 2012 Vieilles Vignes
(Bordeaux Supérieur). Tight tannins mark
this wine. It does have an attractive red fruit layer,
although it feels light on fruit and heavy on tannins.
Polaner Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Château Tour d’Auron 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. The wine is tough with an obvious
wood aging character. At the same time, it has a
generous potential, full of ripe black fruits. Together
they mean a wine that will need some time, so wait
until 2017. Vintus LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château Trocard les Chapelles 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. Soft, juicy and ready to
drink with its berry fruits and rounded tannins, it’s
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an open wine, with only a light tannin character.
Next Level Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Lestonnat 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This
structured wine is slow to show its fruity
side although it has a layer of acidity with hints of
black fruits. It is firm and dry at the moment with
dense tannins and a dark aftertaste. Wait until 2017.
NakedWines.com. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
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Château Belrose 2012 Cuvée Maucaillou (Bordeaux Supérieur). This is a hard-edged wine
with a chemical character. It’s tough both in tannins
and extracted fruits. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château Damase 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur.
The fruit is extremely extracted, making for
a wine that is tough, very firm and hard without
the juicy character needed to see it through. Vintus
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Château de la Vieille Tour 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. This is hard and tough, all tannins
and extraction. Wine Traditions. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Château Larteau 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur.
Bread and yeasty aromas lead to a wine that
has tannins and wood aging, leaving the fruitiness
behind. K&L Wine Merchants. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Chateau le Grand Verdus 2012 Bordeaux
Supérieur. This tough wine seems light on
fruit. It is hard and shows considerable extraction.
Petit Pois. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Château Penin 2012 Les Cailloux (Bordeaux
Supérieur). The wine is extracted and hard.
It has a tough character along with some bitterness.
Bayfield Importing Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Domaine de Courteillac 2012 Bordeaux Supérieur. With a high proportion of Cabernet
in the blend, this holds tough tannins. There is also
juicy Merlot that offers an attractive, fruity future.
The Country Vintner-Craft and Estate. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
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Château Bel Air Perponcher 2012 Réserve
(Bordeaux). This wine has dark tannins and
considerable wood flavor at this stage. The structure and the weight are all there, allowing the fruit
and rich texture to develop. Drink from 2017. Fruit
of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
Château de Sours 2011 Bordeaux. Rich and
juicy, this is a luscious, full wine. It has layers of black currants fruitiness along with a solid
structure that is still developing. The wine is ripe,
packed with fruity Merlot and developing well.
Drink from 2016. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Château du Pin Franc 2012 Bordeaux. At this
stage, the wine is dry and firm. However,
the weight and richness are all there. Give it another
year, and all the suppressed fruit will come through.
Drink this solid wine from 2016. Serge Doré Selections. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
Château Julian 2012 Bordeaux. Mint perfumes show the wood aging of this structured wine. It does have plenty of red fruits along
with juicy acidity and a lively bright aftertaste.
Fresh and fruity at the end, this is ready to drink
from 2015. Ararat Import/Export Co. LLC. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
Chateau Les Maurins 2012 Bordeaux. The
wine is ripe and full of fruit. The tannins act
as a good foil to the generous fruitiness and bright
acidity. The texture is dense, solid and full in the
mouth. Drink this well-balanced wine from 2016.
Les Grands Chais de France Americas. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Château Puy-Marceau 2012 Bordeaux. There
is a good texture to this rich wine that has
spice, wood aging and black fruits. With its firm
texture and rich fruits, it will be a generous wine
from late 2015. Wine Warehouse Imports. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
Château Roc de Minvielle 2012 Bordeaux.
This ripe and smoky wine is full of black
currant and spice. The tannins are firm while not
taking away from the big, generous fruits and crisp
acidity. It’s a wine that will age, best drunk from
2016. LVC Las Vegas Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Château Roquefort 2012 Bordeaux. Rich and
round, this attractive wine has generous
tannins and equally generous fruit. Black currants
shine with their acidity while the texture is firm and
solid. This is a wine with a future; drink from 2016.
Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Château Thieuley 2012 Bordeaux. While the
initial impression is of a tough wine, a soft
heart of red fruits is developing well. The potential
is for balance and juicy acidity while keeping good
structure. Drink from 2016. Calvert Woodley Fine
Wines & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Le Bord’eau du Clos des Moiselles 2012 Bordeaux. While the wine is structured and
firm at the moment, it also has a solid character
with plenty of berry fruits that are waiting to come
through. It is smoky, fruity and likely to be ready to
drink from 2016. OSWinestrade. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
Château Bonnet 2012 Bordeaux. A smoky,
wood-aged wine with both structure and
good fruitiness. Red currants and attractive berry
fruits are developing well to give both fresh acidity and a ripe feel. Drink from 2016. Deutsch Family
Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Château de l’Aubrade 2012 Bordeaux. With
big tannins and dark fruits, this powerful
wine has weight, a rich character and solid structure. For the moment, it is dry and tough. From
2016, it will show its black fruits as well as its tannins. Grape Expectations (CA). —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Château de Sours 2012 Bordeaux. This ripe
and smoky wine has some firm tannins
while bringing out bright berry fruits. It’s smooth
and balanced, the structure enough to sustain the
polished surface. Acidity at the end, along with the
tannins, promise aging. Drink from the end of 2015.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Château de Sours 2012 La Fleur d’Amélie
(Bordeaux). New wood shows strongly in
this smoky wine with burnt wood overtones. Fruit
weight behind it holds hints of black currants and
acidity. Allow this solid offering time to soften and
mold itself into a structured wine. Drink from 2016.
abv: NA
Price: $15
Château Donjon de Bruignac 2012 Bordeaux.
Structured while also fruity, this gives immediate pleasure. Berry fruits gleam through the
drier tannic structure while the acidity is comfortably in balance with the rest of the wine. Drink from
late 2015. IPO Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
Château du Barry 2012 Bordeaux. Ripe and
fruity, this has the right amount of structure
to hold everything together. It’s a bold, rounded
wine, acidity layering red fruits and a darker tannic aftertaste. Drink from 2016. Misa Imports. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
Château Fonfroide 2012 Bordeaux. Structured and firm, it also has ripe, jammy
fruitiness pushing through the structure. Fragrant
red fruits are already shining well. It needs time to
develop more, so wait until 2016. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château La Caussade 2012 Grande Réserve
(Bordeaux). This is a rich, smoky wine,
full of gentle tannins and smooth black fruits. It
is rounded, soft with warm tannins and generous
fruitiness. Drink from 2016. Atlanta Improvement
Co. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Château La Rose Saint Germain 2012 Bordeaux. This wine that comes from 62 acres
of vines has a dry undertow. It has a strongly tannic base over which the fruits are blossoming. Good
acidity gives the necessary freshness. The balance
at the end is excellent, promising reasonable aging.
Drink from 2016. HP Selections. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Château Lamothe 2012 Bordeaux. While the
wine is defined by its tannins at this stage,
it does have good fruitiness. Blackberry flavors are
developing well, giving a strong future and bringing
the wine into balance. Drink from 2016. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Château Pilet 2012 Bordeaux. Smoky while
also fresh, this is an attractively balanced
wine. Red berries are cut with fresher black currants and given a structure with tannins. It is ready
to drink, although it will be better from late 2015.
Canals Bottlestop. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
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Château Rauzan Despagne 2012 Réserve
(Bordeaux). Wood aromas feed through to
the taste of the wine. Still young, it is more about
wooden planks than about fruit at this stage. It
does have enough weight of fruit under the wood
to balance out. Keep at least until 2016. Fruit of the
Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
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Roche Darjac 2012 Bordeaux. This is smooth,
softly textured and round. A more stalky element comes from the black currant skin flavors and
integrates with the light tannins. It gives a gentle
structure to this ready-to-drink wine. Val D’Orbieu
Americas. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Château Sainte-Barbe 2012 Merlot de SainteBarbe (Bordeaux). Strong wood aromas are
more than compensated for by the ripe fruits and
generous character of the wine. It is a solid effort,
full of both fruit and rich texture. Drink from 2016.
Swiss Cellars. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Château Tour de Mirambeau 2012 Bordeaux.
Spicy wood adds to the fresh berry fruits
that show strongly. With acidity balanced by the
smoky flavors, it’s a light, bright wine that will be
ready to drink soon. Think about late 2015. Fruit of
the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
Exem 2012 Bordeaux. With firm tannins allied to smooth wood flavors, this young wine
is going to develop its fruitiness over the next year.
It has a ripe body, black fruits in the back waiting to
come forward. Wait to drink until 2016. Winesellers
Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
Les Parcelles de Stéphane Derenoncourt 2012
Bordeaux. Rich and smooth, this solid, ripe
wine offers a good sense of structure. It has weight,
dense tannins and a creamy texture. Drink from
2015. The House Of Burgundy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2012 Réserve
Mouton Cadet (Bordeaux). This solid,
wood-aged wine is a step up from the standard
Mouton Cadet blend. Dense and tannic, it offers a
good core of black and red fruits and acidity. Made
to be drunk young, it could still age until 2016.
Mouton Cadet USA. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Château Bellevue 2012 Bordeaux. Showing
firm tannins and structure this is currently
a tough wine. It has a solid character although plenty of hints of juicy red berry fruits are ready to come
out as the wine ages. Drink from late 2015. Saranty
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Château Bois Pertuis 2012 Bordeaux. A forward, fruity wine that just hints at spice
and toast. It is broad and ripe, with plenty of berry
fruits and acidity well in balance. It’s developing
fast and will be ready to drink from late 2015. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Château Bonnet 2011 Bordeaux. This is a
juicy, fruity wine with a touch of spice.
The wood aging is still showing strongly, imparting
a smoky character. Black currant fruits are just as
important and they give the wine its bright, crisp
aftertaste. Drink now. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château de Bel 2012 Echappée Bel (Bordeaux). This solid, structured wine brings
out plenty of red fruits and acidity while also maintaining a full texture. It will age quickly, becoming
attractive and fruity from 2015. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
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Château Lamothe-Vincent 2012 Intense
(Bordeaux). This fruity wine also has some
structure. Balanced with touches of wood as well
as red berry and damson fruits, it has acidity and
a firm texture in the background. Drink from 2016.
Laville Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
Château Mazetier 2012 Tradition (Bordeaux). Still young and fruity, this is a
bright, crisp wine packed with red berry fruit flavors. A smoky character underlies the fruit, allowing some toast and spice to come through. Drink
from 2016. Fruit of the Vines, Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
Château Mémoires 2012 Bordeaux. This
fruity wine is laden with red berries and
acidity. The structure is ancillary to the fruit thrust,
giving a base for the attractive fresh character and
the freshness of the aftertaste. Drink now. Vineyard
Research. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Château Penin Natur 2012 Bordeaux. The
wine is rich, full of berry fruits that are also
touched by damsons. It has spice, some toast and a
smooth texture. Plenty of jammy fruit indicate good
potential. Drink from 2016. Spec’s. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
Château Pey la Tour 2012 Bordeaux. The
wine is rich with generous red berry fruit
flavors and balanced acidity. The tannins have been
smoothed and given a round character, full of both
fruit and a ripe structure. Thiénot USA. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Domaine du Cheval Blanc 2012 Bordeaux.
There is plenty of fruit here, juicy red berries and acidity. The tannins still need time to soften to give the wine a sense of fruit and character.
Wait until 2016. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
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Dourthe 2012 La Grande Cuvée (Bordeaux).
Juicy and very fruity, the wine is packed
with red berry flavors and acidity. A touch of spice
adds interest. The end is all about the crisp fruits
and the lively, fresh character. Thiénot USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
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Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2012 Mouton Cadet (Bordeaux). The fruitiness and
structure of the vintage show well in this red berry
flavored wine. A dry core of tannin gives a light
structure and brings out acidity. It’s ready to drink.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Château Bellevue 2013 Bordeaux. A smooth,
lightly wood-aged wine that has soft tannins
and good berry fruits. Black currant and a stalky
texture show the light and fresh character of this
only lightly tannic wine. Saranty Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Château de Costis 2012 Bordeaux. The
tannins are still dominant in this wine.
The fruit seems light and crisp while never likely
to leave the tannins behind. The acidity shines
through more strongly, giving attractive final freshness. Laville Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Château de Lisennes 2012 Bordeaux. The
wine is all fruit, red berries and fresh acidity. There is a light touch here, maybe missing out on
tannins and structure, but bringing out juicy flavors
and a crisp aftertaste. Grape News Importing. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
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(Bordeaux). Earthy aromas lead to a wine
that is at a stage of development that suppresses
fruit. The wood aging and the extracted structure
are still strong. Hints of juicy black fruits emerge,
promising a good, if tannic future. Wait until 2017.
abv: NA
Price: $15
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Château Garrineau 2012 Bordeaux. A ripe
and smooth wine that brings out all the
fruitiness of the vintage. Just enough structure
gives the wine shape, while yielding pride of place
to the juicy fruits and attractive berry flavors. Drink
now. Vinum Distribution Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
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Château Haut Brande 2012 Bordeaux. This
juicy wine has red berry flavors and a sense
of structure. Smoky with a firm tannic aftertaste, it
has weight and a dark, dense aftertaste. Lieber Bros
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
85
Château Haut Cormier 2010 Bordeaux. Rich
while still tannic and stalky, this wine from
a producer in the Blaye region has the structure and
tannins of 2010. A dry texture over the ripe full
plum fruits suggests it will still develop. The end of
the wine is firm. Cutting Edge Selections. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
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Château les Arromans 2012 Cuvée Prestige
(Bordeaux). Jammy and fruity, this generous wine is cut with red berry acidity. The soft texture and ripe flavors impart an almost sweet character. It is ready to drink. Elite Wines Import. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
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Château Pierrousselle 2012 Bordeaux. Bright
and fresh, this fruity wine has the softest
tannins and juicy acidity. It’s packed with red fruits
with a lively character and a perfumed aftertaste.
Drink now. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
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Château Thieuley 2012 Réserve Francis Courselle (Bordeaux). Smoky aromas presage
a wine that has too much wood. Although there is
fruit, it’s hard to find it with all the burnt toast flavors. Perhaps wait before drinking, although that
wood will always be there. Calvert Woodley Fine
Wines & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Prince Rubis 2012 Bordeaux. Ripe and perfumed, this is soft and full of berries, with a
smooth, rounded character that is just toasty. Tannins are there, but only in moderation. Drink now.
Private Reserve. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
Château Coustaut la Grangeotte 2012 Bordeaux. Stalky and full of black currant flavors, this is a fruity, lightly tannic wine. The core is
dry and firm while allowing full expression for the
acidity and fresh aftertaste. Drink now. Victoire Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Château de la Bouyère 2012 Bordeaux. Fresh,
light and juicy, this wine is ready to drink.
Lively and crisp, it has such soft tannins and fresh
acidity. There is little in the way of structure or potential, so drink now. Slocum & Sons, Inc. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
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Château Joinin 2012 Bordeaux. With toasty
aromas and flavors, this wine is all about
smoky burnt wood, only hinting at a fruity future.
Keep it until 2016, although the wood is not going
away. Masciarelli Wine Co. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Château Larroque 2012 Bordeaux. The wine
is all about juicy fruit, only lightly hinting
at a structure. It’s immediately attractive wine and
ready to drink now. Baystate Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
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Château Lauduc 2012 Classic (Bordeaux).
Full of red berry fruits, this has some attractive fresh acidity to add to the light, bright feel.
With its soft aftertaste, it is ready to drink now.
Zachy’s. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
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Château les Terrasses de Bouey 2012 Bordeaux. Stalky black currant fruits dominate
this wine. It has acidity, juicy fruitiness and a dry,
tight aftertaste. It’s not for long aging. Cutting Edge
Selections. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
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Esprit de Gombeauds 2012 Bordeaux. Light
and fruity, this red berry, stalky flavored
wine is crisp with acidity and soft tannins. It’s developing fast and will be ready to drink from 2015.
Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
84
Grand Bourgeau 2012 Réserve (Bordeaux).
The wine is perfumed, structured and
showing strong wood aging flavors. It lacks fruit,
giving a tough character and leaving a highly aromatic aftertaste. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $23
Les Allées de Moron 2012 Bordeaux. Light
and fresh, this is crisp and ready to drink.
With the lightest of tannins, it’s more about juicy
fruitiness with a bright aftertaste. Misa Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
Mission St Vincent 2012 Bordeaux. Red berry
fruits are right up front in this juicy, fruity
wine without great sense of structure. No matter,
it’s attractive and fresh now, ready to drink. Multiple U.S. importers. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
VIgnobles Ducourt 2012 Réserve de la
Famille (Bordeaux). This aromatic wine is
at the same time structured and tough. Its redeeming feature is the berry fruit layer that is waiting to
show through from 2015. BNP Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
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Château Briot 2012 Bordeaux. Herbal aromas give a crisp character. The fruit is not
entirely ripe, so the wine relies on its tannins and
acidity to get balance. Europvin USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
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Château de Crain 2012 Bordeaux. A light and
fruity wine that is ready to drink. From the
heart of the Entre-deux-Mers region, it has red berry fruits and juicy acidity. A greener, herbal character in the background suggests grapes that weren’t
totally ripe at harvest. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
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Château Grand Jean 2012 Bordeaux. High
levels of acidity suggest the fruit was not
ripe. It has a green, herbal character, very juicy and
fresh. BNP Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
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Ginestet 2012 Bordeaux. This is a structured
wine, with too many tannins from wood and
fruit. The red berry fruits are likely always to remain second to the structure. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
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Léo de la Gaffelière 2012 Bordeaux. This is a
thin wine with way too much acidity for the
fruit. The rest of the wine is dry tannin that could
soften into a more juicy character. It’s always going
to be a light wine. Luneau USA Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Château Haut Roudier 2012 Bordeaux. Crisp
fruitiness and acidity show the fruit is not
ripe. It’s a herbal and stalky. Vintus LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Château Mezain 2012 Bordeaux. Dry tannins
and wood flavors give a hard character. It’s
tough to see beyond the wine’s dryness and find the
fruit. Advantage International. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
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Château Moulin de Mallet 2012 Bordeaux.
Meat and bacon aromas lead to a dry, tannic
wine. It only hints at a fruity future. Misa Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
OTHER RED WINES
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Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux 2012 Moulis-en-Médoc. This is turning into an impressive wine as it finds its way between solid tannins and ripe, full black fruits. It is dark and dense
at this stage with tannins that dominate. A more
juicy character will develop as the wine ages. Drink
from 2017. Calvert Woodley Fine Wines & Spirits.
Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $29
90
Château La Grange Clinet 2012 Grande
Réserve (Côtes de Bordeaux). For full review see page 14. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
90
Château Pilet 2012 Cuvée Prestige (Côtes
de Bordeaux). Big and bold, this is going to
be an impressive Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon
blend from a 2.5-acre plot on the Queyrens family
estate. It has great red fruits and generous acidity,
both of which are given a strong sense of structure
by the tannins. At the moment, it is about potential,
so wait until 2017. Malbec & Malbec Cellars. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $16
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Château Bertinerie 2012 Réserve (Blaye
Côtes de Bordeaux). From selected parcels
on the Bertinerie vineyard, this is still a young,
firmly structured wine. Red berry fruits offer a contrast to the solid tannins and rich texture. The wood
aging still shows, giving a spicy character that will
integrate as the wine matures. Drink from 2017. DB
Wine Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
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Château de Cruzeau 2012 Pessac-Léognan.
From one of the properties owned by André
Lurton in Pessac-Léognan, this is a well-structured,
wood-aged wine. Solid tannins and spice accompany coffee and bitter chocolate flavors. These are
subsiding as the wine matures, leaving black currant
fruits and a series of firm tannins that will allow
the wine to age. Drink from 2017. Deutsch Family
Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
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Château Lécuyer 2012 Pomerol. Typical for
Pomerol, this is a tiny property of seven
acres. It is situated on the plateau close to Pomerol
village center. It presents a bold display of Merlot,
full of ripe tannins and jammy red berry fruits. It’s
dark, rich and maturing well, and will be ready to
drink from 2017. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
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Château Mayne Vieil 2012 Fronsac. Still
very young, this is a complex and powerful
wine. Its tannins and firm structure dominate at the
moment, muting the juicy fruit that’s underneath.
With aging potential, the wine will develop slowly.
Drink from 2018. Vinum Wine Importing and Distributing LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
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Château La Pirouette 2011 Médoc. Strong
wood aromas and flavors show that this is
a young wine. It has a powerful, smoky structure,
with a grainy texture that is still covering the fruit.
The potential is there, though, the black currant
fruitiness beginning to develop. Give it time and
drink from 2017. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $33
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Château la Fleur 2012 Montagne-SaintÉmilion. Big, ripe and fruity, this dense and
juicy wine is full of blackberry fruits, with a good
tannin and acid balance. A dark structure will allow the wine to age, so drink from 2016. Saranty
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
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Château la Tonnelle 2012 Haut-Médoc. A
blend dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon
gives a solid, structured and tannic wine. Some
wood aging brings out a minty character as well as
some toast. The wine is rich and smooth, although
with a solid core of tannins. Drink from 2016.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
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Château la Valade 2012 Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux. The wood-aging flavors are strong
although not too dominant. They ride well with the
solid fruit tannins, flavorsome blackberry fruits
and firm, smoky aftertaste. This balanced wine will
need some aging; drink from 2016. Saranty Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
balancing this juicy wine. Drink from 2016. Victoire
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Château la Prade 2012 Francs Côtes de Bordeaux. Smooth and ripe, 90% Merlot and
10% Cabernet Franc, this is a solid, structured
wine. Its juicy acidity is full of potential, giving a
ripe character with red berry fruits and a tannic
structure to balance. The wine’s fruit gives a fresher
feel at the end. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
ROSÉS
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Château Bonnet 2013 Bordeaux Rosé. A
fresh and fruity rosé that has 50% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 50% Merlot in the blend. It has a
light caramel touch along with raspberry fruitiness
and delicate acidity. The 2013 vintage at Château
Bonnet saw yields drastically cut because of hail.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
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Château de Sours 2013 Bordeaux Rosé. Fresh
and with plenty of crisp raspberry flavors,
this is a bright, light wine. It has just a touch of caramel along with a really fruity aftertaste. Old Bridge
Cellars. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
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Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2013 Le Rosé
de Mouton Cadet (Bordeaux Rosé). With
an attractive pink color and soft acidity, the wine
is fruity with red berry flavors and a soft, caramel
texture. It’s ready to drink while it is still so fresh.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
BORDEAUX BLANC
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Château Lécuyer 2011 Pomerol. A rich, soft
and smooth wine that is full of juicy fruits
and a rounded texture. It’s generous and opulent,
developing fast with ripe fruitiness and a fresh aftertaste. Drink from 2016. Aquitaine Wine Company. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Château le Chêne 2012 Haut-Médoc. From
Cissac in the north of the Haut-Médoc, this
firm and structured wine has dark berry fruits along
with solid tannins and a dry structure. It promises
aging as well as the possibility of drinking sooner, so
try from 2016. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Château Picoron 2012 Sélection Prestige
(Castillon Côtes de Bordeaux). This ripe and
fruity wine has attractive blackberry flavors along
with a smoothness that comes from wood aging.
The tannins give just the right amount of structure,
Château de Sours 2012 La Source (Bordeaux
Blanc). A little wood aging has subdued
the fruitiness of this wine while bringing out a rich
character with touches of pineapple and honey as
well as crisper lemon flavors. It’s a wine in progress
and will be better from 2016. Old Bridge Cellars.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
Château Magnol 2013 Les Charmes de Magnol
(Bordeaux Blanc). Yellow fruits and a light
touch of wood give this wine from the Haut-Médoc
estate of Château Magnol richness and a fruity character. A more textured edge brings a crisper note to
the party. Drink from 2015. Barton & Guestier USA.
—R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
Barton & Guestier 2013 Passeport Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon (Bordeaux Blanc). For
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
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Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2012 Mouton
Cadet (Bordeaux Blanc). Totally herbaceous,
this fruity wine has grassy aromas and gooseberry
flavors. It’s crisp, fresh and ready to drink. Mouton
Cadet USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
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(Bordeaux Blanc). Citrus and herbaceousness dominate this light and fresh wine. It has crisp
lime flavors, yellow fruits and perfumed acidity.
Drink now, although it will be better in 2016. Old
Bridge Cellars. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $15
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Château de Sours 2013 La Source (Bordeaux
Blanc). This textured, mineral wine also has
fresh and crisp Sauvignon herbaceous flavors. It is
bright and lively, still on the young side and waiting
for the Sémillon in the blend to show through. Drink
from the end of 2015. Old Bridge Cellars. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
RHÔNE
CONDRIEU
93
Michel & Stéphane Ogier 2011 La Combe de
Malleval (Condrieu). This is a rich, ripe Condrieu that manages to avoid seeming excessively
weighty or oily. The suggestion of grilled apricot
and pineapple slices is balanced by mouthwatering
acidity and a slightly peppery, textural grip on the
long finish. Drink by 2016. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $92
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Gilles Flacher 2011 Les Rouelles (Condrieu).
Surprisingly smoky and toasty upfront, but
balanced by ample apricot fruit and hints of honey,
pineapple and citrus zest. Despite its ripe, oaky nature, there’s plenty of crisp acidity to provide structure and prolong the finish. Drink now–2016. Good
Company Wines. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
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Avant-Garde 2012 Sauvignon Blanc (Bordeaux Blanc). While the wine is definitely
herbaceous that crispness is softened by the ripe
fruits that also give currant fruitiness and an attractive aromatic aftertaste. It is ready to drink. Val
D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
Baron Philippe de Rothschild 2013 Mouton
Cadet (Bordeaux Blanc). Fresh and herbaceous, this is a light, attractively fruity wine. It has
bright acidity, green fruit and citrus flavors and is
totally ready to drink. Mouton Cadet USA. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
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Caves de Rauzan 2013 Augey (Bordeaux
Blanc). This is soft, hinting at a sweeter side
with its smooth texture and touch of honey. It’s an
attractive wine, ready to drink now. Prestige Wine
Group. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
OTHER WHITE WINES
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Château Haut Bertinerie 2013 Sauvignon
Blanc (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This is a
wood-aged wine, rich and with a mix of toast, spice
and citrus flavors. Acidity cuts through the richness, making it full-bodied while fresh. Still young,
the wine needs time to integrate the wood with the
fruit. Drink from 2016. DB Wine Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Château de Crain 2012 Entre-Deux-Mers.
Very aromatic, this is a grassy, herbaceous
and crisp wine. It is bright with lemon acidity, a
light mineral texture and a lively aftertaste. It’s
ready to drink. Val D’Orbieu Americas. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
E. Guigal 2011 Condrieu. The region’s most
widely available wine remains a solid benchmark. Exotic aromas of citrus blossom and tropical fruit make a bold impression, followed up on
the palate by ample weight and a touch of oiliness.
Drink now–2016. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65
Maison Nicolas Perrin 2011 Condrieu. In only
a few years, this has become one of the
northern Rhône’s most reliable négociants. This
wine features plenty of apricot, honey and melon
nuances framed by caramel and cinnamon, with a
long, spicy and honeyed finish. Drink now–2016.
Vineyard Brands. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $71
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Delas Frères 2011 La Galopine (Condrieu).
This wine displays reticent notes of acacia
blossom and apricot, with bountiful white pepper.
It’s medium bodied and a bit viscous in texture,
then develops a spicy, mouth-tingling finish. Drink
through 2016. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
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Famille Perrin 2012 Les Sinards (Châteauneufdu-Pape). For full review see page 8.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $38
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Tardieu-Laurent 2012 Vieilles Vignes (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This honeyed, toasty
Châteauneuf may be too oaky for purists, but it
does show ample concentration and length. Hints
of marmalade shine through on the palate, ending
in a long, smoky finale. Drink now. Wilson Daniels
Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $67
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Clos de L’Oratoire des Papes 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This easy-drinking,
fruit-forward blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette,
Roussanne and Bourboulenc displays ample melon and citrus aromas and flavors. A suggestion of
wet stone prolongs the finish and adds just enough
structure to hold everything else together. Vinum
International. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
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André Brunel 2012 Les Cailloux (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). At 80% Roussanne and
20% Grenache Blanc, this isn’t a typical assemblage
for Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Fermented and aged in
concrete, it’s reticent at this stage of its evolution,
showing hints of paraffin and honey but remaining
largely neutral. Unlike most white Châteauneufs, it
would probably benefit from a few years of cellaring.
Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $54
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M. Chapoutier 2012 La Bernardine (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Offering up hints of
clover blossom and lime, this is an attractive, citrusy white for drinking over the next year or two.
The palate shows a mild weight—a bit of a rarity
when it comes to Châteauneuf-du-Pape blanc—and
is very crisp and clean on the finish. Terlato Wines
International. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $62
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Domaine de la Présidente 2012 Grands Classiques (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Not the
lushest or most generous white Châteauneuf, this
is a rather tart, citrusy and anise-tinged wine. It’s
clean and refreshing, with a touch of white pepper
on the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
OTHER WHITE WINES
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Domaine de la Mordorée 2013 La Reine des
Bois (Lirac). It’s basically one-third each
Grenache Blanc, Roussanne and Viognier, but the
Viognier speaks loudest in the finished wine. Apricot and peppery-gingery spice notes mark the nose,
while the texture is bolstered by Viognier’s phenolic content without becoming bitter. Drink now
through 2015. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
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Domaine de Gournier 2013 Viognier
(Cévennes). This is a fine example of Viognier, exuding varietal characteristics of apricot and
spice, plus a thick, viscous texture. It’s a bit oily and
finishes with a peppery blast of watercress. Drink
up before the end of 2015. Robert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Mas Carlot 2013 Cuvée Tradition (Costières
de Nîmes). This plump-textured blend of
Roussanne, Marsanne and Viognier features aromas
and flavors of apricot, melon, mango and ginger.
WINEMAG.COM | 67
BUYINGGUIDE
Drink it over the next nine months for its appealing, forward fruit nature. Robert Kacher Selections.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Mas Carlot 2013 (Clairette de Bellegarde).
This is a plump, generous wine from an almost unknown appellation. Melon and pineapple
notes are balanced by stony elements and a long,
orange blossom finish. Drink now. Robert Kacher
Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
82
Christian Leperchois 2012 Lunar Apogé (Lirac). Some attractive citrus elements are
present, but bruised-apple notes suggest a certain
level of oxidation, and the flavors fall away quickly
on the finish. The Artisan Collection. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $26
TAVEL
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Domaine de la Mordorée 2013 La Reine Des
Bois (Tavel). This is Mordorée’s top cuvée of
Tavel, and it earns that distinction by virtue of its
length and stoniness on the finish. There’s a hint of
garrigue to the cherry aromas and a plump, complex
midpalate as well. Drink it over the next year or two.
Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $39
90
Domaine de la Mordorée 2013 La Dame
Rousse (Tavel). Mordoreé’s 2013 Tavels
are all notable. La Dame Rousse falls in the middle,
price- and quality-wise, with bold cherry-berry
notes accented by powered cinnamon and a long,
mouthwatering finish. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
89
Brotte 2013 Les Églantiers (Tavel). A blend
of 60% Grenache, 20% Clairette and 20%
Syrah, this wine represents a relative bargain in the
rarified realm of Tavel. Notes of wet stone and citrus carry through from start to finish, joined on the
midpalate by hints of white chocolate and raspberry. It’s a relatively full-bodied rosé that can stand up
to grilled meats. Margaux And Associates. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
89
Domaine de la Mordorée 2013 Les Vestides
(Tavel). This is a fairly full-bodied, weighty
wine, with slightly confected notes of mixed cherries and berries that still manage to finish clean and
refreshing. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
88
Château de Manissy 2012 Tête de Cuvée
(Tavel). Tavel producers like to claim their
wines perform best after a year or two of bottle age,
so it’s nice to see a later release once in a while. This
is complex, with aromas of moss and wet rock meet-
ing ripe cherries on the palate. Drink by early 2015.
MS Walker. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
OTHER ROSÉS
gion well. It’s rich and textured on the palate, with
aromas and flavors of espresso and plum that marry
together into a seamless savory-fruity mélange and
finish long. Drink now–2025. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $80
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Domaine de Gournier 2013 Rosé (Cévennes).
This is on the full side for a rosé, yet retains
plenty of mouthwatering appeal. While the aromas
aren’t all that expressive, the subtle raspberry and
cherry fruit carries an undercurrent of petrichor
through the lengthy finish. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Château Signac 2013 Cuvée Dona Clara Chusclan Rosé (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This is
a fruit-driven, medium-bodied rosé of Grenache
(60%) and Mourvèdre (40%). While not the most
complex rosé, the yellow-fleshed, red-skinned plum
flavors are potent, lingering on the mouthwatering
finish. Petit Pois Corporation. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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E. Guigal 2013 Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). Guigal’s latest rosé offers plenty of mouthwatering fruit and intensity. Damp moss and wet stone
accent intense watermelon aromas and flavors,
which verge on being candied in nature. The combination of ripe fruit and crisp acids gives a sweettart edge to the finish. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
87
Ogier 2013 Rosé (Côtes du Rhône). This rosé
is slightly confected on the nose, but boasts
ample weight and richness on the palate, along with
appealing notes of raspberry, white chocolate and
citrus. Vinum International. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
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Domaine Lamargue 2013 Les Grandes Cabanes Rosé (Costières de Nîmes). This pale
rosé is a 50-50 blend of Syrah and Grenache, fairly
typical for the region. The modest peach and berry
notes aren’t all that generous on the palate, but
most will appreciate its austerity and clean, crisp
finish. Esprit du Vin. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
CÔTE RÔTIE
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Domaine Jamet 2009 Côte Rôtie. Textbook
Jamet, with flamboyant swirls of cracked
pepper, grilled meat, plum, berry, black olive and
espresso finishing long and silky. It’s not the biggest
or baddest Côte Rôtie, but it remains a benchmark
for elegance and balance. Drink now–2027. Robert
Kacher Selections. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $145
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E. Guigal 2010 Brune et Blonde (Côte Rôtie).
The appellation’s largest bottling by far, Guigal’s Brune et Blonde continues to represent the re-
Vidal-Fleury 2010 Brune et Blonde de VidalFleury (Côte Rôtie). An elegant rendering of
the appellation, this is only medium bodied, yet
packs in plenty of complex flavors. Cracked pepper,
cured meat, blueberry and plum notes finish with
a soft dusting of silky tannins. Drink now–2020.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
E. Guigal 2009 Brune et Blonde (Côte Rôtie).
Guigal’s 2009 entry-level Côte Rôtie comes
across as a bit austere. Cool scents of crushed stone
and black olive mark the nose, while the palate is
firm and tight, only slowly giving up hints of espresso. Drink 2018–2024. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $75
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Vidal-Fleury 2010 La Chatillonne Côte
Blonde (Côte Rôtie). Baking spice and a hint
of black pepper frame plummy fruit aromas, while
touches of leather and coffee sneak in on the palate.
It’s a medium-bodied red that incorporates a high
proportion of Viognier into the blend (15%). The
finishes brings hints of brown sugar and powdered
cinnamon. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $109
HERMITAGE
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M. Chapoutier 2009 Monier de la Sizeranne
(Hermitage). Chapoutier’s 2009 Hermitage
is a sturdy rendering of the appellation, with chewy
tannins framing dark, savory fruit. Hints of charcoal
and black olive mark the nose, while the finish lingers astringently. Drink 2018–2025. Terlato Wines
International. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $125
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E. Guigal 2009 Hermitage. This chewy, astringent wine displays cedar, toast and vanilla notes that threaten to dominate the dark fruit.
It’s full bodied and richly textured on the palate, but
ends on drying, dusty notes of baking spices. Drink
2018–2025. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $90
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Louis Bernard 2010 Hermitage. This reasonably priced Hermitage shows the appellation’s hallmark gamy notes. It’s a sturdy, moderately
full-bodied wine with a richly textured finish. Drink
now–2025. Boisset Family Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $50
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Cave de Tain 2010 Hermitage. The local coop’s basic Hermitage is a medium- to fullbodied red with slightly drying, ashy tannins and
ample espresso and black olive flavors. Cranberry
and cracked pepper notes also find their way into
the mix. Drink 2017–2023. Perfecta Wine Co. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
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(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The 2010 Beaucastel is a tour de force, brilliantly combining
espresso and black olive notes with bright raspberry
fruit, while dark earthy notes provide a solid base.
The feel on the palate is ample, with tannins that
are a bit dusty but not tough or chewy. The long,
mouthwatering finish bodes well for the future.
Drink now–2030. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $120
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(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). For full review see
page 4.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $120
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Pierre Henri Morel 2010 Lieu-Dit Pignan
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Full bodied and
plushly textured, this is an opulent wine that’s approachable now, but should last through 2025. It’s
tight and reticent when poured, then opens in the
glass to reveal raspberry fruit, with subtle baking spice and cacao. Massanois Imports. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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Alain Jaume et Fils 2011 Domaine Grand Veneur Les Origines (Châteauneuf-du-Pape).
Velvety in texture, this is a concentrated yet finely
wrought expression of modern-style Châteauneufdu-Pape, matured in oak. Cherry and leather notes
slide toward chocolate and espresso on the long,
richly textured finish. Drink now–2025. Kysela Père
et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $70
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Domaine du Pegau 2010 Cuvée da Capo
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This is a full-bodied, amply tannic red with an incredibly long, silky
finish. It’s also rather animale in style, boasting intense leather and beef jerky aromas and flavors that
are smoky and meaty, while hints of liniment and
horse tack grow stronger toward the finish. One to
try—if possible—before committing to a purchase.
Hand Picked Selections. —J.C.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $500
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Domaine Santa Duc 2010 Habemus Papam
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Santa Duc’s small
parcel of Châteauneuf-du-Pape is planted to a mix
of 95% Grenache and 5% Mourvèdre. It’s a peppery,
briary wine that’s savory and spicy, with blackberry
fruit providing support rather than leading. The
tannins are soft, but still provide ample structure
for aging through 2020. Robert Kacher Selections.
—J.C.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $106
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André Brunel 2011 Les Cailloux (Châteauneufdu-Pape). Les Cailloux is a traditional-style
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with only the small Syrah
component being aged in barrel. The 80% Grenache
speaks the loudest, bursting with cherry fruit, dried
spice and crushed stone notes that come to a refined, silky finish. Drink now–2025. Robert Kacher
Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $49
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Château Maucoil 2010 L’Esprit de Maucoil
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Superripe and
lavishly oaked, the 2010 L’Esprit is loaded with
jammy cherry fruit topped with vanilla cream. It’s
full bodied, plushly textured and slightly warming,
with some chewy wood tannins on the finish. Drink
2018–2025. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $116
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Delas Frères 2011 Haute Pierre (Châteauneufdu-Pape). If it’s possible for a Châteauneufdu-Pape to have Burgundian style, this would be
a candidate. The cherries are delicate and herbal,
with crisp acids and silky tannins that provide a
wiry, peppery framework for the elegant fruit. Drink
now–2020. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA.
Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $44
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Alain Jaume et Fils 2011 Domaine Grand
Veneur (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). The Jaume family’s regular bottling of 2011 Châteauneuf
is a firm, sturdy effort. Dusty tannins frame notes
of cherry, ash and espresso and come to a slightly
chewy finish. Give it another year or two and then
drink it up by 2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $53
COSTIÈRES DE NÎMES
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Château d’Or et de Gueules 2011 Trassegum
(Costières de Nîmes). This is a full-bodied,
creamy-textured, superripe wine that should be
consumed over the next few years for its opulent
dark fruit. It calls to mind black-cherry compote
swirled with dark chocolate. There’s even a hint of
mint to garnish. The composition is 50% Syrah,
25% Carignan and 25% Mourvèdre, with the Carignan and Mourvèdre coming off 80-year-old vines.
Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Mas Carlot 2013 Cuvée Tradition (Costières
de Nîmes). This blend of 55% Grenache,
40% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre shows considerable weight and richness for the price. Subtle garrigue shadings lead into dark flavors of black cherry,
blackberry, cola and licorice, ending with hints of
mocha and espresso. Drink it now–2017. Robert
Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Mas des Bressades 2012 Cuvée Tradition
Syrah-Grenache (Costières de Nîmes). This
50-50 blend of Syrah and Grenache shows just how
good entry-level wines from Costières de Nîmes can
be. It’s blueberry fruit easily carries complex notes
of roasted meat, espresso and black olive while gliding to a silky-textured finish. Drink now–2016. Robert Kacher Selections. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Château d’Or et de Gueules 2011 Les Cimels
(Costières de Nîmes). Full-bodied and
chewy, this blend of 60% Syrah, 30% Carignan
and 10% Grenache is a spicy, garrigue-laden wine.
Notes of cinnamon and cracked pepper accent black
cherry fruit, turning to licorice on the dusty finish.
Drink now–2018. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Château Grande Cassagne 2012 GrenacheSyrah (Costières de Nîmes). The blend is
60% Grenache, 40% Syrah. The result is a fullbodied, supple wine dominated by dark fruit. Notes
of road tar, black olive and chocolate linger on the
finish and would pair best with hearty winter dishes
or simple grilled lamb. Robert Kacher Selections.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Domaine Lamargue 2011 Les Grandes Cabanes (Costières de Nîmes). This Syrah isn’t
particularly aromatic, but it does offer nicely balanced flavors of dried cherries, baking spices and
dusty earth. It’s slightly rustic and leathery, but
that’s part of its charm. Drink up. Esprit du Vin.
Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
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Tortoise Creek 2012 Le Charmel Syrah-
Grenache (Costières de Nîmes). This medium-bodied wine is a blend of 70% Syrah and 30%
Grenache. It’s taut and dry, with bright red fruit
notes of raspberry and cherry, dressed up by a few
herbal flourishes. Drink by the end of 2015. Winesellers Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
CÔTES DU RHÔNE
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Tardieu-Laurent 2011 Guy Louis (Côtes du
Rhône). This is strongly marked by toasty,
cedary oak, but enough fruit comes through on the
midpalate and finish to suggest this is more than
just another oaky red. It’s rich and creamy through
the midpalate, then finishes long, with mixed berry
notes emerging at the end. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
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E. Guigal 2011 Côtes du Rhône. A perennial
favorite, it’s reassuring to see that the quality continues to remain high even from Guigal’s least
expensive cuvée. Red fruits—cherries and raspberries—marry easily with hints of clove, cracked pepper, black olive and espresso. It’s round on the mid-
WINEMAG.COM | 69
BUYINGGUIDE
palate, showing more focus and ample length on the
finish. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
concentration on the palate, but just a bit rustic
overall. Ingenium Wines. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
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La Bouvaude 2011 Elégance (Côtes du
Rhône). Plush and creamy in texture,
loaded up with toasted coconut and vanilla, this is
a tasty, well crafted oaky red. Hints of berries add
depth to the vanilla-laden palate, then linger on the
supple finish. Drink now. DB Wine Selection. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Alain Jaume et Fils 2012 Grand Veneur
Réserve (Côtes du Rhône). The Jaume family continues to turn out reliable, well priced wines
from the Southern Rhône. This is filled with effusive cherry fruit and marries that to a soft, plush
texture. It’s a simple, yet highly satisfying glass of
red wine to drink over the next few years. Kysela
Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
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Domaine de Magalanne 2013 Côtes du Rhône.
Comprised of equal parts Grenache, Syrah,
Carignan and Cinsault, this is a medium-bodied,
supple wine destined for early drinking. Hints of
thyme and bay leaf add nuance to the cherry fruit,
which ends on some darker notes of asphalt and
chocolate. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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M. Chapoutier 2012 Belleruche (Côtes du
Rhône). This fruit-forward offering is 70%
Grenache and 30% Syrah. Dark cherry notes are
framed by just enough tannin to contrast the ripe
fruit, while a hint of dark chocolate sneaks in on the
mouthwatering finish. Drink it over the next couple
of years. Terlato Wines International. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
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Château de Manissy 2013 Côtes du Rhône.
Located in Tavel, Manissy is an organic producer whose red Côtes du Rhône is a blend of 60%
Grenache, 25% Carignan and 15% Counoise. Whiffs
of thyme and bay leaf accent slightly confected
cherry fruit in this reasonably crisp, easy-to-drink
wine. There’s not much tannin, so you might even
try it slightly chilled. MS Walker. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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La Bouvaude 2012 Fruiandise (Côtes du
Rhône). Hints of thyme and bay leaf accent
taut cherry flavors in this 80-20 blend of Grenache
and Syrah. On the palate, the wine starts off a bit
burly, but seems to lose intensity the longer it sits
in the glass. Drink now. DB Wine Selection. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Le Prince 2012 Vieilles Vignes (Côtes du
Rhône). This blend of 54% Grenache, 34%
Syrah, 9% Mourvèdre and 3% Cinsault boasts
some brambly fruit, but that’s dominated by notes
of leather and clove. It shows decent weight and
Château Saint Nabor 2012 Côtes du Rhône.
This wine lacks fruit, instead offering leathery flavors and a slightly hollow midpalate. Finishes
short. Marquee Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES
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Château Signac 2012 Cuvée Tradition Chusclan (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Chusclan is
a warm locale, but this concrete-aged blend of 45%
Grenache, 35% Syrah and 20% Carignan displays
ample freshness. Notes of cherries, citrus and spice
finish tart and refreshing, with just a hint of dark
mocha. Drink now–2018. Petit Pois Corporation.
—J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
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Domaine de Magalanne 2011 Lou Biou Signargues (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Magalanne’s top wine is a wood-matured blend of
40% Syrah, 30% Mourvèdre and 30% Carignan.
It’s nicely balanced and spry on the palate, easily
moving from raspberry, cherry and citrus to leather,
spice and herb before ending on some stony, dusty
notes. Drink it over the next year or two. Classic
Wines. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
OTHER RED WINES
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Christian Leperchois 2011 Lunar Apogé Made
with Organic Grapes (Lirac). This biodynamic
producer has hit in two consecutive vintages. The
2011 is a bit funky at first, so you may want to decant it before serving, but once some cabbage-like
aromas dissipate, the wine delivers plenty of blackberry fruit, some garrigue notes and a touch of licorice. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture, with a
long, silky finish. The Artisan Collection. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Domaine de la Mordorée 2012 La Dame
Rousse (Lirac). Located in Tavel, Domaine de
la Mordorée has been one of the quality leaders in
neighboring Lirac. This wine is dark and earthy at
first, but opens with airing to reveal bold notes of
blueberry, mocha and peppery spice. This 50-50
blend of Grenache and Syrah is full bodied, richly
textured and finishes long. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Domaine de Gournier 2013 Grenache
(Cévennes). A bright, bouncy, fresh style of
Grenache, made in an almost Beaujolais style. With
its medium body and candied cherry fruit, drink
this over the next year or so. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Duvernay 2011 Cairanne (Côtes du Rhône Villages). Shows undeniable complexity in its
scents of green bean, ash and bruised apple, as well
as flavors of green coffee beans, scorched plum and
dark chocolate. It’s going everywhere, which makes
it a bit awkward but interesting at the same time.
The plush texture and soft tannins make it drinkable now. Banks Channel. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
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Brotte 2012 Chateau de Bord La Croix de Frégère Laudun (Côtes du Rhône Villages). A
blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah from vineyards near Laudun, this is a typical blend that isn’t
typical in flavor. Crisp, dusty notes of cinnamon, red
peppercorn and pomegranate predominate, making
this medium-bodied wine interesting, if not incredibly hedonistic. Margaux And Associates. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
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Domaine de Magalanne 2012 Terre de Galets
Signargues (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This
is a crisp, firmly structured blend of 60% Syrah,
30% Mourvèdre and 10% Grenache (within the
Rhône, Signargues is best known for its Syrah). The
asphalt, black olive and black cherry notes are all
positive, but the structure dominates, making the
wine seem a bit tough and ungenerous. Perhaps another year or two of aging will help? Classic Wines.
—J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
GERMANY
RIESLING TROCKEN
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Wittmann 2012 Westhofen Morstein Riesling
Trocken GG (Rheinhessen). While the nose
is buoyant, bursting with honey, mango and flowers, a polished elegance reverberates throughout
this dry, steely Riesling. Rich in body and texture,
it’s ripe and peachy, yet balanced with streaks of
lime, lemon and mineral. The finish rolls endlessly
on the palate. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $80
93
Dr. Loosen 2012 Erdener Treppchen Alte
Reben GG Dry Riesling (Mosel). For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $42
93
Dr. Loosen 2012 Wehlener Sonnenuhr GG
Dry Riesling (Mosel). Sumptuous aromas of
white peach and pineapple are tinged with rocky
mineral tones on this powerful, penetrating dry
Riesling. While moderate in alcohol, it’s surprisingly ripe in grapefruit and peach flavors, bolstered
by a thick, mouthfilling texture. Loosen Bros. USA.
Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $42
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Fritz Haag 2013 Brauneberger Riesling
Trocken (Mosel). Honeysuckle wafts softly
amidst white peach and lemon aromas on this dry,
unctuous wine. Richly textured, it’s almost oily in
mouthfeel, but balanced by a streak of high acidity
and a steely, mineral tone. Finishes long and lean on
a bristling lime-zest note. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $35
93
Louis Guntrum 2012 Nierstein Hipping Riesling Trocken GG (Rheinhessen). The nose is
all wildflower bouquets and honey on this lavishly
ripe, full-bodied Riesling. It’s dry in style, yet buoyantly fruity, bursting with flavors of honey tangerine and quince preserves. Finishes long with a
lingering mineral slick. Broadbent Selections, Inc.
Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $58
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Robert Weil 2013 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Trocken GG (Rheingau). Vivid with acidity yet deep and rich in body, this dry, voluptuous
wine brings out the best of a difficult vintage for
Germany. It’s fresh on the palate with bright apple
and pear flavors, touched with nuances of bramble,
spice, pollen and caramel that add complexity to
the long finish. Loosen Bros. USA. Editors’ Choice.
—A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $92
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Fritz Haag 2013 Riesling Trocken (Mosel).
Sumptuous notes of sugar cookie and honeydew perfume this lavish, full-bodied bottling. It’s
dry on the palate with piercing white-grapefruit
acidity, but balanced by a rich, almost creamy,
mouthfeel. The finish lingers luxuriously with a
murmur of lime-zest astringency. Loosen Bros.
USA. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $22
Penetrating lemon-lime acidity wins out on the finish, along with a pleasant bite of citrus zest. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $65
Finishes long with rolling mineral notes. Mionetto
USA. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $75
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Wittmann 2012 Westhofener Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Tart green melon, lemon
and lime scent this sleek, dry wine. While full bodied in style, its rich, mineral palate is steely and
honed. Finishes long with a murmur of lime-zest
astringency. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
Johannishof 2012 Johannisberg Hölle Riesling
GG (Rheingau). A quiver of silk lends richness to the palate of this dry, relatively full-bodied
Riesling. Stark lime-lemon acidity is tart and bracing, but ripe pear and apple notes add flesh and
persistence to the finish. Valckenberg International,
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $69
Johannishof 2012 Rüdesheim Berg Rottland
Riesling GG (Rheingau). Slicks of honeycomb
and lanolin lend richness to tart white peach and
lemon tones in this dry, elegantly structured wine.
It’s silky in mouthfeel, but not weighty, streaked
with white grapefruit and a firm, mineral finish.
Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $69
Louis Guntrum 2012 Niersteiner Riesling
Trocken (Rheinhessen). Honey and pollen
notes waft from this sharp, intensely structured
wine. It’s dry in style yet drenched with ripe peach
and tangerine flavors. A swathe of fresh green herbs
and cutting, nervous acidity linger long from midpalate through finish. Broadbent Selections, Inc.
—A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
Schloss Johannisberger 2012 Silberlack Riesling Trocken GG (Rheingau). Fresh apple and
white floral aromas are dusted with caramelized
sugar and smoke on this dry, mineral-tinged wine.
Edgy and lean on the palate but supple in grapefruit
flavor, it’s a honed, steely white with polish and elegance. Mionetto USA. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $75
Brüder Dr. Becker 2012 Riesling Trocken
(Rheinhessen). Hints of forest and pine
needle lend an alpine touch to ripe honey and tangerine flavors in this dry, medium-bodied wine. It’s
brisk and breezy on the palate, yet nuanced with
touches of spice, earth and mineral. Finishes long
and steely. Savio Soares Selections. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Müller-Burggraef)
2013 Bernkastel Riesling Spätlese Trocken
(Mosel). Zesty orange peel awakens the senses on
this bracing, minerally Riesling. The palate is lean
and steely, cut by a streak of lemon-lime acidity, but
it finishes long with a lavish mineral-oil slick. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $30
Louis Guntrum 2012 Louis Dry Riesling (Rheinhessen). Ripe, rich flavors of yellow peach
and pear cling lusciously on the palate of this dry,
full-bodied wine. It’s satisfying in its heft while
sprightly in acidity, finishing on a taut, mineral
tone. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12.7%
Price: $14
90
Maximin Grünhäuser 2013 Abtsberg Alte
Reben Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Whiffs of
pollen and dusty minerals lend complexity to fresh
white-flower and grapefruit tones on this dry, refreshing wine. It’s cutting and lean, but juicy citrus flavors are invigorating and satisfying. Finishes
moderately long with a lingering crush of minerals.
Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $48
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Prinz Salm 2012 Kirchberg Bingen Riesling
Trocken GG (Rheinhessen). Freesia and tangerine rind scent this bright, aromatic wine. It’s dry
in style, yet luscious and ripe, streaked with tones of
honey tangerines and peach. Bristling lime acidity
lends cut and vibe to the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $69
Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2012 Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Trocken GG
(Mosel). Honey tangerine and jasmine notes perfume this intensely aromatic, complex wine. While
dry in style, it’s surprisingly rich and honeyed on
the palate. The midpalate tightens with pineapple
acidity, followed by a brash mineral finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $65
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Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2012 Kaseler
Nies’chen Riesling Trocken GG (Mosel).
While sprightly and lean in style, this dry, mineraltinged Riesling seems to round out on the palate,
building in ripe white-peach and grapefruit flavors.
Maximin Grünhäuser 2013 Herrenberg Alte Reben Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Lavender, stone
fruit and sugar cookie notes scent this exuberant,
aromatic wine. Dry in style, it’s sprightly and lean
with puckering lemon-lime flavors rounded out by a
plump, peachy finish. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $42
Prinz Salm 2012 Scharlachberg Bingen Riesling Trocken GG (Rheinhessen). Smoke tones
blow off revealing layers of tropical fruit encased
in wax and lanolin on this bold, nuanced wine. It’s
dry in style with a luscious, creamy texture cut with
shards of acid and lime-zest astringency. Finishes
long and lean. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $69
Schloss Johannisberger 2013 Silberlack Riesling Trocken GG (Rheingau). A wisp of smoke
lends a sultry tone to fresh pear in this dry, supple
wine. It’s ripe and rich on the palate, but maintains
the lean, steely acidity ubiquitous to this vintage.
Maximin Grünhäuser 2013 Riesling Trocken
(Mosel). Bramble and smoke lend a savory
rusticity to white peach and lemon tones in this
lean, yet deeply penetrating wine. It’s dry in style
and searing with lemon-lime acidity, but feels ripe
and lush, with peach and grapefruit flavors. Finishes moderately long. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $22
Wittmann 2012 Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Initial notes of smoke and earth settle
into lavish blossom and lemon aromas on this dry,
reverberating Riesling. It’s delicate in body, yet penetrating with lemon-lime acidity and a lingering
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BUYINGGUIDE
mineral richness on the finish. Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $22
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Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2013 Dom Riesling Trocken (Mosel). Wisps of smoke persist from nose to finish, accenting flavors of fresh,
tart apples, grapefruit and peach in this crisp, reverberating wine. It’s dry and refreshing in style,
finishing long with zesty lime astringency. SchmittSöhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $17
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Dr. Heyden 2013 Oppenheimer Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Rheinhessen). Crisp white
peach and apricot notes brighten this stark, steely
dry wine. While lithe and lean on the palate, it finishes long with a lingering slate minerality. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
89
Louis Guntrum 2012 Oppenheim Sackträger
Riesling Spätlese Trocken (Rheinhessen).
Hints of cookie crumbs lend warmth to fresh apple
and pear notes in this mineral-intense, dry Riesling.
It’s round and rich on the palate, but punctuated by
tart, steely tones of acid and stone before finishing
moderately long. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $30
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Wittmann 2012 100 Hills Dry Riesling (Rheinhessen). Fresh floral tones persist from
nose to finish on this sharp, spry wine that’s refreshing, with a delicate, dancing mouthfeel. It finishes briskly on a cutting lemon-lime edge. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
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Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2012 Neirsteiner Paterberg Riesling Kabinett Trocken
von Kalk (Rheinhessen). A whisper of ripe tangerine skin brightens this dry, intensely mineral wine.
Sourced from grapes grown on a chalky site, it’s
lean and steely in profile, but gains lushness in the
midpalate, blossoming in peach and honey flavors.
Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
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Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2013 Vom
Kalk Limestone Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). Whiffs of chalk and stone lend an earthy, mineral tone to this dry, invigorating wine. The acidity
is enamel stripping, but it’s a brisk, cutting wine
ideal as a palate refresher or apéritif. Winesellers
Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
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Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2012 Wormser Liebfrauenstift-Kirchenstück Dry Riesling (Rheinhessen). Intense mineral tones dominate this dry,
sprightly wine. It’s delicate and dainty on the palate, but concentrated with tart orange and citrus
rind flavors. Finishes brisk and bright. Valckenberg
International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $34
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Binz 2013 Nackenheimer Riesling Kabinett
Trocken (Rheinhessen). Ripe honeydew
and peach notes lend a welcome touch of richness
to this dry, slightly stark Riesling. The midpalate
bristles with acidity, finishing tart and citrusy. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $14
P.J. Valckenberg 2013 Undone Dry Riesling
(Rheinhessen). Zesty lemon and lime aromas mingle with tart white peach and apple on this
dry, medium-bodied wine. It’s stark and mineral on
the palate, with nervous acidity that reverberates
through the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc.
Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2013
Vom Rotliegenden Red Soil Riesling Trocken
(Rheinhessen). Spine-tingling lime and lemon
notes dominate this light-footed dry Riesling. Refreshingly mineral on the palate, it finishes brisk
and clean. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
RIESLING KABINETT
Weingut Georg Albrecht Schneider 2013
Niersteiner Paterberg Riesling Kabinett
(Rheinhessen). Underripe honeydew and crisp
peach flavors lend a tart-sweet twist to this brisk
off-dry Riesling. It’s an elegant wine shaded with
touches of mineral and herb that linger long on the
finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
2013 Bernkastel Riesling Kabinett (Mosel).
Spicy and aromatic, this saffron-tinged wine balances intense acidity with welcome touches of
sweet white peach and honey. It’s crisp and nervy
on the palate, but lingers moderately long on a dusty
mineral finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 8.3%
Price: $20
2013 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). A touch of pollen adds earthy funk to
pristine white blossom and pear notes on this brisk,
invigorating wine. Searing acid swipes through the
midpalate, but the delicate hints of sweet yellowcherry persist through the finish. Winesellers Ltd.
—A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $22
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Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2013 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett Gold Cap
(Mosel). Ripe, rich yellow-cherry and peach tones
are surprisingly plump on this dancing, delicate
wine. A strike of razor-edged acidity on the midpalate cuts through all the luscious fruit, leading
a steely, mineral finish. Valckenberg International,
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $53
2013 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Kabinett
Gold Cap (Mosel). A touch of caramelized sugar
adds richness to sweet pineapple and mango notes
on this deftly extracted kabinett. The palate dazzles
with acidity, but it’s balanced in sweetness and a
murmur of lime-zest astringency on the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $42
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Louis Guntrum 2012 Nierstein Bergkirche
Riesling Kabinett (Rheinhessen). Juicy
white grapefruit and lime flavors penetrate throughout this juicy, off-dry Riesling. It’s refreshing and
quaffable yet elegantly structured, finishing moderately long on a lingering lime-pith note. Broadbent
Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $20
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Dr. Loosen 2013 Bernkasteler Lay Riesling
Kabinett (Mosel). A touch of caramel adds
ripeness to sweet honeydew and tangerine flavors
in this taut, tight wine. Off dry in style, yet searing
with high-octane acidity, it bestows a kiss of sweet
stone-fruit to brighten the moderately long finish.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $28
Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2013 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Wisps of smoke and crushed stones lend
complexity to fresh apple and pear notes on this
delicate, lace-textured wine. Electric lemon-line
acid strikes a mean chord on the palate, but hints of
sweet peach and apricot even out the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $34
Dr. Heyden 2012 Oppenheimer Riesling Kabinett (Rheinhessen). There’s still a touch of
spritz on this racy off-dry Riesling, adding freshness and vibe to savory apple and lemon flavors. It’s
bracingly acidic on the palate, yet refreshingly quaffable. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Kabinett (Mosel). Smoke and
earth tones add funk to the nose of this delicate
off-dry wine. The palate is pristine with crisp white
peach and apricot flavors, but biting acidity and a
bitter lemon-pith note leave the finish taut. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $22
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Schäfer 2013 Mettenheimer Schlossberg
Riesling Kabinett (Rheinhessen). Glimpses
of lemon and tangerine brighten dusty mineral and
bramble tones in this slightly savory off-dry Riesling. The palate boasts apple and pear flavors that
finish crisply on a zesty lime-pith note. Winesellers
Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $14
RIESLING SPÄTLESE
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Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2013 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese Gold Cap
(Mosel). Intensely concentrated flavors of sweet
cantaloupe, tangerine and peach belie the difficulties inherent to Mosel’s 2013 vintage. This spätlese
is unusually rich and silken on the palate, yet maintains a thrilling high-acid profile. Finishes long with
lingering notes of honeysuckle and saffron. Valckenberg International, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $78
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2013 Berncasteler Doctor Riesling Spätlese
Gold Cap (Mosel). Whiffs of orange spice, tangerine
and honey entice on this intensely aromatic wine.
While nervous and spry on the palate, it’s streaked
with rich orange and pineapple flavors. A touch of
caramelized sugar lends warmth to the lingering
finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 7.7%
Price: $58
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Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel).
While lithe and delicate in mouthfeel, this dazzling
wine packs a punch with sun-kissed peach and
apricot flavors. High-toned lime notes cut through
the palate like a razor, leading a long, honey-kissed
finish. Impeccably balanced, it’s full of vibe and refreshment. Vinum Cos. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $28
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Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler
alte Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Mineral notes on the nose build in intensity throughout this brisk, invigorating semidry
Riesling. Spine-tingling lemon-lime acidity offsets
a palate full of luscious yellow peach and honey flavors. Finishes long with a spray of lavender. Vinum
Cos. —A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $33
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Earthy notes
of saffron and crushed stone accent sweet orange
and honey in this zesty, gossamer-textured wine.
It’s cutting and spry with acidity, finishing with an
aromatic spray of honeysuckle and tangerine. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $30
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Schloss Saarstein 2013 Serrig Schloss Saarsteiner Riesling Spätlese Erste Lage (Mosel).
Pristine white peach mingles with saffron, candle
wax and dusty minerals in this enticingly spry wine,
but the shriekingly high acidity cuts the palate with
a razor’s edge. Welcome touches of honey add some
balance towards the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $42
RIESLING AUSLESE
EISWEIN
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Castell 2012 Casteller Schlossberg Riesling
Eiswein (Franken). Intense aromas of dried
orange peel, tangerine and spice entice from this
silky-smooth wine. It’s deeply mineral, yet lusciously fruity, loaded with ripe, sweet yellow-cherry and
berry flavors. Finishes with a honeyed cling. Valckenberg International, Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $350/500 ml
94
Dr. Hermann 2012 Goldkap Riesling Eiswein
(Mosel). This delivers a spectacular explosion of fruity, floral flavors. Notes of apricot preserve and honeysuckle are exuberantly aromatic,
balanced with a delicate palate of sweet, sugared
peach and tangerine. It’s sprightly and lean, yet elegantly lingering on the finish. Broadbent Selections,
Inc. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 6%
Price: $115/375 ml
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Fritz Haag 2013 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese (Mosel). While the
nose is subdued, lush honeydew and white peach
flavors shine brilliantly on the palate of this taut,
nervous wine. Streaks of steely mineral lend a polished feel that lingers on the finish. It’s strikingly
acidic still, but should meld together beautifully
with some cellaring, ideally from 2019 on. Loosen
Bros. USA. Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $56/375 ml
Fritz Haag 2013 Brauneberger Juffer Riesling
Auslese Goldkapsel (Mosel). Gorgeously aromatic, this racy, light-footed wine wafts of lavender, peach and honeycomb. The palate is juicy with
sweet, ripe grapefruit and apricot, yet zesty with
acidity and minerality. Enamel-stripping acidity
feels jagged on the finish now, but should meld out
beautifully from 2019 on. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar
Selection. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $42/375 ml
Maximin Grünhäuser 2012 Herrenberg Riesling Eiswein (Mosel). Delicate dustings of
saffron and spice lend complexity to unctuous honey and tangerine on this luscious, concentrated eiswein. While light as a feather, its intensity and power are jaw dropping. A streak of high-toned acidity
draws out a long, mineral finish. Loosen Bros. USA.
Cellar Selection. —A.I.
abv: 6.5%
Price: $314
Robert Weil 2012 Kiedrich Gräfenberg Riesling Eiswein (Rheingau). Pollen and dust
notes lend an earthy, mineral tone to ripe tangerine
and peach flavors in this bristling, bright eiswein.
It’s strikingly acidic, but broad swathes of honey
and nectar balance things out elegantly. Loosen
Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $365/375 ml
RIESLING FEINHERB
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Dr. H. Thanisch (Erben Thanisch) 2013 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Touches of pine forest, saffron, wax and orange peel persist throughout this zesty, invigorating
wine. Sunny melon and tangerine flavors are brisk
and bright, extended through the finish on a streak
of lemon-lime acidity. Valckenberg International,
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 8%
Price: $38
Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2013 Bernkasteler alte
Badstube am Doctorberg Riesling Spätlese
(Mosel). Dusty mineral notes persist on this elegant, invigorating semidry Riesling. It’s intensely
tart with acidity, but sunny rays of yellow peach and
tangerine build towards the midpalate. The finish is
kissed with honey and lemon tea. Winesellers Ltd.
—A.I.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $34
Fritz Haag 2013 Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese Goldkapsel (Mosel).
Dusty, smoky earth tones fade to reveal a rich, fruity
palate of sweet white peaches and tangerine. Despite its light-footed nature, there’s a lusciousness
in mouthfeel, cut with spine-tingling acidity on the
midpalate. Enjoy from 2018 to allow its honeyed
mineral notes to develop. Loosen Bros. USA. Cellar
Selection. —A.I.
abv: 7.5%
Price: $52/375 ml
Maximin Grünhäuser 2013 Abtsberg Riesling
Auslese (Mosel). Hints of green herb accent
fresh, crisp pear and apple flavors in this delicate,
dancing wine. Semisweet in style, it deftly balances
bracing, acidity with long, lingering swathes of honey and stone fruit. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I.
abv: 7%
Price: $46
St. Urbans-Hof 2012 Nik Weis Leiwener Laurentiuslay Riesling Feinherb Grosse Lage
(Mosel). Intense note of caramel and smoke add
complexity to fresh apple and tangerine flavors in
this dry, mineral-rich wine. It’s delicate in alcohol,
yet remarkably round and clingy on the palate, cut
by a stream of high-toned acidity on the finish. HB
Wine Merchants. Editors’ Choice. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $55
Maximin Grünhäuser 2013 Riesling Feinherb
(Mosel). Savory earth tones mingle with
honey-glazed apple and pear on this sprightly, vivacious wine. Off dry in style, it’s penetrating with
sweet citrus flavor and a zesty crushed mineral finish. Light on its feet, it’s also satisfying and juicy.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $22
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Bischöfliche Weingüter Trier 2013 Riesling
Feinherb (Mosel). Hints of bramble and
WINEMAG.COM | 73
BUYINGGUIDE
smoke add savoriness to fresh apple and pear flavors
in this almost-dry Riesling. The palate is piercingly
high in acidity, but zesty lemon and lime flavors are
bright and invigorating. Schmitt-Söhne USA. —A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $17
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Peter Nicolay 2013 Wehlener Klosterberg
Off-Dry Riesling (Mosel). Brighter and sunnier than many of its peers from this cool, difficult
vintage, this off-dry Riesling boasts an easy tangerine acidity. The palate is still zesty and spry, while
saffron-scented apples and pears linger on the finish. Vinum Cos. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $20
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Peter Nicolay 2013 Erdener Treppchen OffDry Riesling (Mosel). Smoke and caramel
add breadth to crisp, lean apple and pear flavors in
this bristling off-dry Riesling. It’s zesty and refreshing from start to finish, ending on a taut, bitter lime
note. Vinum Cos. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $20
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2013 Bernkastel Feinherb Riesling (Mosel).
Honeysuckle perfume shines light on this lean,
strikingly brisk wine. Almost dry in style, it’s tart
and tight, yet refreshingly quaffable through the finish. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $20
OTHER RIESLING
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Bollig-Lehnert 2013 Flagfish Riesling (Mosel). Delicate and racy, yet intensely penetrating with peach and lemon flavors, this off-dry
Riesling achieves satisfying balance. The palate is
smooth and finishes long on a sultry smoke tone.
abv: 9%
Price: $16
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Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2013 Noble House Riesling (Mosel). While the nose on this off-dry
Riesling is lean and mineral, the palate is lusciously
ripe, brimming with peach and mango flavors. A
streak of high-pitched acidity shakes up the midpalate and lingers through the finish. Winesellers Ltd.
Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $12
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Prinz Salm 2013 Two Princes Riesling (Rheinhessen). Intense citrus notes perfume
this bright, sunny off-dry Riesling. Yellow peach
and pear flavors are rich and ripe on the palate, but
balanced by a firm strike of lemon acidity. Finishes
moderately long. Valckenberg International, Inc.
—A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $17
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Schäfer 2013 Estate Bottled Riesling (Rheinhessen). Dusty aromas of dried, savory
herbs accent tart yellow peach and nectarine flavors
in this brisk, delicate wine. Dry in style, it’s elegant
on the palate, streaked with touches of honed steel
and minerals. The long finish conveys a murmur of
astringency. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
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Weingut Liebfrauenstift 2013 Riesling (Rheinhessen). Pristine white grapefruit and
peach flavors reverberate from nose to finish on this
juicy off-dry Riesling. It’s unabashedly fruity yet elegantly quaffable, marked by tart lime acidity and a
lingering suggestion of minerals. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $17
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Blümel 2013 Liebenberg Riesling (Rheinhessen). Hints of sun-dried hay and herbs lend
a savory, earthy vibe to this dry, full-bodied wine.
It’s lavishly mineral on the palate, streaked with wet
stone and steel, and concludes with zesty kick of
lime-pith astringency. Snarky & Spirited LLC. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $21
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Dr. Heidemanns-Bergweiler 2013 Riesling
(Mosel). A hint of green-floral perfume
wafts amidst notes of honey and apple on this offdry Riesling. Spine-tingling with acidity, it’s balanced with sweet yellow peach and cherry flavors.
Irresistibly easy drinking, it finishes moderately
long. Vinum Cos. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $10
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Leonard Kreusch 2012 Estate Bottled Riesling (Mosel). Smoky mineral tones add
complexity to this pert, off-dry Riesling. White
grapefruit and quince flavors are piercingly tart on
the palate, highlighted by a stream of high-toned
lime acidity on the finish. Leonard Kreusch, Inc.
—A.I.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
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Schmitt Söhne Family Wines 2013 Qualitatswein Riesling (Rheinhessen). For full review
see page 15. Best Buy.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $9
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Schmitt Söhne 2013 Relax Riesling (Mosel).
abv: 9%
Price: $10
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Contempo NV Riesling (Rheinhessen). Intense grapefruit and pineapple aromas
mingle with saffron and spice in this punchy off-dry
Riesling. The palate is satisfying and concentrated
with juicy citrus flavor, while hints of crushed stone
lend elegance to the finish. Scoperta Importing Co.
Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $10
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Gustav Adolph Schmitt 2012 Fisherman Riesling (Rheinhessen). Brisk and elegant, this
wine has an alpine feel that accentuates its lean,
cutting profile. The palate is a tad austere, highlighting minerality and acidity over fruit, but a touch of
white grapefruit peeks through nicely on the finish.
Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $11
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Heinz Eifel 2013 Shine Riesling (Rheinhessen). Delicate scents of lemon and lime
touched with bramble and earth waft from this offdry Riesling. The palate is succulent and juicy with
yellow peach and tangerine flavors, but marked by a
tough edge of acidity that lingers through the finish.
Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $11
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Landshut 2013 Riesling (Rheinhessen). For
abv: 9.5%
Price: $5
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Loosen Bros. 2013 Dr. L Riesling (Mosel).
Savory whiffs of nuts and mineral convey
elegance to ripe white peach and grapefruit aromas
on this off-dry Riesling. Easy-drinking in style, it’s
pleasantly tart, finishing on a sweet, lingering kiss
of honey. Loosen Bros. USA. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $12
Nebel 2013 Riesling (Rheinhessen). A spray
of floral perfume accents delicate notes of
lemon, lime and dusty mineral on this sprightly
off-dry Riesling. Citrus flavors punch through the
palate, highlighted by a stream of tongue-tingling
acidity. The finish is crisp and cutting. AWDirect.
Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $12
Pflüger 2013 Dürkheimer Riesling (Pfalz).
Bristling acidity is hard to hide on this
stark, dry-style Riesling. Yet the palate surprises
with touches of honey, saffron, peach and pineapple that peek through like a warm ray of sunshine.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
P.J. Valckenberg 2012 Riesling (Rheinhessen). Stone and steel linger throughout this
biting, citrus-tinged Riesling. Off dry in style, juicy
white grapefruit flavor penetrates on the palate, finishing crisp and clean. Valckenberg International,
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $14
Peter Nicolay 2013 Riesling (Mosel). Crushed
stone notes lend a lean, mineral character to
bright apple and lemon on this bright, refreshing
wine. It’s off dry in style with pert lemony acidity
that lingers on the finish. Vinum Cos. —A.I.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $16
Pflüger 2013 Herrenberg Riesling (Pfalz).
Hints of sugar cookie and blossom lend
warmth to the nose of this brisk, steely wine. It’s
dry in style and bracingly acidic, but polished with
touches of stone and steel that linger on the finish.
abv: 13%
Price: $34
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Blümel 2013 Michelsberg Riesling (Rheinhessen). Subtle aromas of lemon, lime and
crushed stone intensify through the palate of this
dry, strikingly acidic Riesling. The mouthfeel is lean
and lithe, finishing savory, on a dusty pollen note.
Snarky & Spirited LLC. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $21
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Dr. Fischer 2013 Riesling (Mosel). Brisk and
puckery with tart green-apple and lime
notes, this is an invigorating, slightly bracing, offdry Riesling. Enjoy now for its brash, brisk style.
abv: 10%
Price: $15
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Castell 2013 Schloss Silvaner Trocken (Franken). Dried herb notes mingle with tart
pineapple and tangerine flavors in this sprightly,
easy-drinking wine. Dry and medium-bodied in
style, it’s marked by a touch of seawater minerality
on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $21
OTHER WHITE WINES
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Bernhard Huber 2011 Schlossberg Erste Lage
R GG Spätburgunder (Baden). It’s difficult to
name favorites amidst this vintage of Huber’s Pinot
Noirs, but the Schlossberg is distinct for its plump,
ripe fruit. The palate penetrates with bright redcherry flavor, yet maintains composure. A vibrant
vein of acidity trails through the finish. Valckenberg
International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $117
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Fitz-Ritter 2013 Dürkheimer Riesling (Pfalz).
Minerality is elemental to this taut, smoky
Riesling. Slightly ruddy flavors of apple and peach
tend towards the savory, accented by touches of
dusty earth and stone. It ends briskly with a cutting
lemon edge. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
Karl Schaefer 2013 Wachenheimer Gerümpel
Riesling (Pfalz). Fresh floral notes perfume
this delicate, dainty wine. It’s not densely concentrated on the palate, but crisp lime acidity makes
it quaffable and invigorating. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $37
C. von Nell-Breuning 2013 Kaseler Riesling
(Mosel). Fresh lime juice brightens savory
tones of apple and pear in this brisk off-dry Riesling. It’s racy and lithe on the palate, finishing on a
puckering sour lemon-candy note. Winesellers Ltd.
—A.I.
abv: 9%
Price: $17
SILVANER
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Castell 2012 Casteller Schlossberg Silvaner
Trocken GG (Franken). Dusty dried herbs accent bright notes of tangerine and white flower on
this bold yet elegant wine. The palate is rich, round
and heavy in feel, but striking lemon-lime acidity
and a crush of oyster shells adds balance. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 14%
Price: $76
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Castell 2012 Casteller Kugelspiel Trocken
Silvaner (Franken). Smoky tones of roasted
nuts intensify throughout this rich, full-bodied
wine. Dry on the palate, it’s a showcase of minerality brightened by a streak of fresh lime and lemon
flavors. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
86
Castell 2013 Castell Silvaner Trocken (Franken). Sunny tropical fruit and honey on the
nose contrast with the brisk mineral tones on the
palate of this refreshing dry wine. Crisp and quaffable, it’s an elegant introduction to this mysterious,
slightly savory grape. Valckenberg International,
Inc. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
Blümel 2013 Kirchberg Weissburgunder
(Rheinhessen). Delicate sprays of white
flowers, peach and pineapple entice on this ripe,
round Pinot Blanc. It’s pleasantly clingy, yet elegantly structured, with streaks of minerals and
high-toned acidity reverberating on the finish.
Snarky & Spirited LLC. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $24
Binz 2013 Nackenheimer Pinot Gris Kabinett
Trocken (Rheinhessen). Whiffs of caramelized sugar and grilled peaches lend a ripe, fruity
tone to this otherwise, brash, lean wine. Refreshing
on the palate, it’s zesty and spry, concluding with a
steely, mineral tone. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
P.J. Valckenberg 2013 Pinot Blanc (Rheinhessen). White peach and candle wax scent
this elegantly structured wine. Pert lime and lemon
tones add zest and vibe to the palate. It finishes
moderately long with a touch of caramelized sugar.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
86
Blümel 2013 Kirchberg Grauburgunder (Rheinhessen). Smoky, brambly notes persist
from nose to finish on this dry, intensely savory Pinot Gris. Fresh lemon and apple flavors on the palate are concentrated, but finish on a green, vegetal
tone. Snarky & Spirited LLC. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
SPÄTBURGUNDER
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Bernhard Huber 2011 Bienenberg Erste Lage
R GG Spätburgunder (Baden). The better (by
just a whisker) of Huber’s 2011 Pinot Noirs, the Bienenberg is distinctly fragrant of cherry blossoms
and rose. Tart red cherry and cranberry flavors are
streaked with saltwater and stone, finishing on a
lingering mineral tone. It’s bold, yet elegantly structured. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $103
91
Bernhard Huber 2011 Alte Reben Spätburgunder (Baden). Delicate notes of bramble
and char accent sultry black-cherry flavor in this
bold, elegantly structured wine. Fresh cranberry
acidity dazzles the midpalate, leading a long, mineral-tinged finish. Valckenberg International, Inc.
—A.I.
abv: 13%
Price: $74
Bernhard Huber 2011 Sommerhalde Erste
Lage R GG Spätburgunder (Baden). Hints
of umami richness lend savoriness to primary redcherry and cranberry flavors on this nuanced wine.
Supple like silk yet refreshingly mineral, it finishes
crisp and clean with lingering wet-granite notes.
abv: 13%
Price: $103
Louis Guntrum 2012 Pinot Noir (Rheinhessen). Wisps of green herb and grass lend
freshness to bright red-cherry and berry aromas
on this full-bodied wine. On the palate, fruit tones
are riper and richer, bursting with cassis and dark
cherry. It’s elegant yet accessible, with a lingering
finish rimmed with soft, feathery tannins. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
P.J. Valckenberg 2013 Undone Pinot Noir
(Rheinhessen). A kiss of violet mingles with
bright red cherry and strawberry aromas on this elegant yet approachable wine. It’s juicy and concentrated with sunny red-berry flavor, but fresh and
spry with acidity. The moderately long finish holds
just a faint spray of tannins. Valckenberg International, Inc. Best Buy. —A.I.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
87
Schäfer 2012 Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (Rheinhessen). Hints of cedar and toast lend
warmth to crisp red-cherry and plum notes in this
big-bodied, yet delicately flavored wine. Bright
cranberry acidity lends a fresh feel to the palate. It
finishes moderately long with a hint of bitter tannin. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
DORNFELDER
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Schäfer 2013 Mettenheimer Dry Red Estate
Bottled Dornfelder (Rheinhessen). Despite
candied blueberry and grape notes on the nose, this
is a dry-style Dornfelder. Rich and ruddy on the palate, it finishes a tad warm with a lingering cassis
note. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
85
Leonard Kreusch 2010 Sweet Dornfelder
(Rheinhessen). Stewed plum and black
cherry flavors are a bit ruddy on this rustic, off-dry
Dornfelder. It’s juicy in a straightforward, easy way,
WINEMAG.COM | 75
BUYINGGUIDE
while a touch of cranberry acidity brightens the finish. Leonard Kreusch, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $12
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P.J. Valckenberg 2012 Dornfelder (Rheinhessen). Blackberry and blueberry flavors are
ripe on this easy drinking, off-dry wine. It’s juicy
and rich, but lifted by a spray of crisp red cherry
on the finish. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I.
abv: 10%
Price: $12
83
Schäfer 2012 Sweet Red Estate Bottled Dornfelder (Rheinhessen). Preserved plum and
cherry notes are tinged with dark chocolate on this
ripe, easy drinking off-dry Dornfelder. Despite all
the richness, it’s a bit lacking in concentration on
the palate. Winesellers Ltd. —A.I.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $14
NORTHEAST ITALY
AMARONE DELLA
VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO
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David Sterza 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Aromas of black currant,
plum cake, vanilla and mocha lead the nose on this
structured, full-bodied wine. On the palate, notes
of cinnamon, black pepper and nutmeg add depth
to the rich blackberry and crushed plum flavors,
Despite the hefty structure, it’s also surprisingly elegant thanks to assertive but polished tannins and
just enough fresh acidity. The Italian Wine Trader.
—K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $43
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Vigneti Villabella 2005 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Here’s a youthful nine-yearold that offers intense aromas of crushed blue flower, leather, tobacco leaf and baked plum. The savory
palate delivers crushed dried black cherry, prune,
vanilla and nutmeg framed in velvety tannins. Drink
through 2020. Vin Divino. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $60
Santa Sofia 2009 Antichello (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). This opens with
classic Amarone aromas that include plum, graphite, roasted herb, underbrush and a touch of baking
spices. The palate delivers dried plum, blackberry,
black pepper and clove alongside brooding tannins.
Vinvino Wine. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $68
Zymè 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. This structured seven-year-old displays aromas of dried sage, fennel, fig and a hint of
rubber. The palate is fresher than the nose, offering
black plum, fig, white pepper and anisette balanced
by big but polished tannins. Enjoy through 2019.
Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $150
Zymè 2003 La Mattonara Riserva (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Blueberry, plum
cake, mocha, vanilla and sweet pipe tobacco aromas
jump from the glass of this mature, structured wine.
On the palate, notes of cinnamon and anisette back
up primary flavors of dried black cherry and blackberry. Thanks to its smooth tannins, this would be
nice to sip after dinner in front of the fire. Banville
Wine Merchants. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $350
Secondo Marco 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Big and muscular, this opens
with aromas of blackcurrant, grilled pepper and exotic spice. The solid palate delivers grilled porcini
mushroom, roasted coffee bean and prune alongside
teeth-coating tannins. Enoclassica Selection. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $50
Cecilia Beretta 2009 Terre di Cariano Riserva
(Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of scorched earth, leather, mature black fruit
and a touch of graphite lead the nose on this fullbodied, straightforward wine. The solid palate offers up plum and dried black cherry alongside astringent tannins that give it a clipped finish. Casa
Bruno. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $40
Domìni Veneti 2008 Monte (Amarone della
Valpolicella Classico). An unusual mélange
of aromas includes asphalt, vanilla and blackberry
jam. The extracted palate delivers plum marinated
in spirits and sweet baking spices alongside astringent tannins and the tingle of evident alcohol. Domini Veneti USA. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $80
Domìni Veneti 2008 San Rocco (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Dense and extracted, this opens with aromas of roasted herbs,
leafy underbrush, vanilla and plum cake. The syrupy palate offers blueberry extract and sweet baking spices framed by grippy tannins. Domini Veneti
USA. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $80
87
Giuseppe Campagnola 2009 Caterina Zardini Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of cream caramel, baked plum, vanilla
and coffee carry over to the palate along with prune
and toast. It ends quickly on a note of raspy, astringent tannins that leave the mouth feeling dry. Superior Wines, Wine Warehouse. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $90
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Corteforte 2007 Terre di San Zeno (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Crushed blue
flower, new leather, ripe black fruit and incense aromas jump out of the glass. The palate is surprisingly
fresh for the vintage, displaying juicy plum, blackberry and cinnamon balanced by firm but smooth
tannins. J & J Importers. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
Corteforte 2006 Vigneti di Osan (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). A layered fragrance of blue flower, leather, tobacco, mature black
fruit and incense lead the nose on this bold but
refined wine. The palate doles out crushed blackberry, graphite and licorice alongside chewy tannins
and surprisingly fresh acidity for an eight-year-old
wine. J & J Importers. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $70
91
Nicolis 2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Intense aromas of violet, black plum,
leather with a whiff of baking spices lead the nose
on this full-bodied wine. The hearty palate offers
mature black cherry, white pepper and clove alongside brooding tannins that need time to open up.
Drink 2016–2020. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
Delibori 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico. Straightforward but structured,
this opens with aromas of leafy underbrush, wet
soil and stewed plum. The palate offers dried cherry,
raisin, nutmeg and seasoned herbs framed by firm
tannins. Arctic Beverage, LLC. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $45
Luciano Arduini 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. This brawny wine leads
with aromas of ripe black fruit, resin and leather.
The robust palate delivers crushed plum, prune and
nutmeg notes framed in chewy tannins. Selected
Estates of Europe Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $45
Villa Girardi 2009 Opere di San Pietro (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas
suggest underbrush, toast, black plum, leather and
a whiff of cooking spices. The straightforward palate delivers ripe black cherry, mocha and chocolate
alongside velvety tannins. It’s already surprisingly
accessible but will maintain for another four or five
years at least. Drink through 2019. Montcalm Wine
Importers. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $76
Zeni 2009 Barriques (Amarone della Valpolicella Classico). Aromas of resin, nail polish, plum-steeped-in-spirits and dried tobacco leaf
waft out of the glass. The palate is evolved but still
offers fig, dried date and coconut alongside astringent wood tannins that leave a mouth-drying finish.
Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $65
Antica Corte 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella
Classico. An unusual combination of aromas includes floral air freshener, grilled bell pepper
and dried blackcurrant. The palate offers soy sauce,
raisin and dried sage alongside teeth-coating tannins. Saranty Imports. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $47
86
Savoia 2007 Vigneto dei Coali (Amarone
della Valpolicella Classico). Inky and impenetrable, this wine opens with aromas of nail polish,
resin and stewed black fruit. The evolved palate reflects the heat of the vintage and is aging quickly,
offering raisin and dried sage alongside fleeting tannins. —K.O.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $50
dried tobacco leaf, prune and fennel. The hearty
palate offers stewed prune, dried black cherry, licorice and a black pepper note alongside assertive
tannins. Nawrocki Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $59
AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA
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Fattori 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella.
This savory, structured wine opens with
aromas of blue flower, baked plum, vanilla and mocha. The juicy palate doles out crushed black cherry,
cinnamon and chocolate alongside velvety tannins
that give it a smooth mouthfeel. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $90
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Tenute Fiorebelli 2010 Coste Bianche (Amarone della Valpolicella). Aromas of underbrush, milk chocolate, fig and clove lead the nose
on this full-bodied but straightforward wine. The
ripe palate doles out crushed blackberry, cinnamon
and ground red pepper alongside solid tannins. Just
enough fresh acidity makes it surprisingly drinkable. Traditional Wine Innovations LLC. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $60
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Albino Armani 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella. Blackberry, underbrush, mocha and
baking spice aromas lead the nose on this hearty
wine. The dense palate offers mature black plum,
dill, clove and hints of black pepper alongside bracing tannins. Saranty Imports. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $50
88
Corte del Sole 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella. In this hearty wine, aromas suggest
menthol, leather, espresso and mature, black fruit.
The dense palate offers prune, roasted coffee bean,
licorice and toasted notes alongside astringent tannins. August Wine Group, Bacco Wine and Spirit.
—K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $49
88
Monte Zovo 2008 Riserva (Amarone della
Valpolicella). This robust wine opens with
aromas that recall leafy underbrush, grilled mushroom, toast and prune. The palate delivers roasted
coffee bean, fig and nutmeg alongside smooth tannins. It’s at its ideal drinking window so enjoy now
through 2018. Wine 4 All. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $60
88
Trabucchi d’Illasi 2006 Cent’Anni Riserva
(Amarone della Valpolicella). Leafy underbrush, moist soil, asphalt and sweet plum take
center stage on this dense wine. The palate delivers
espresso, toasted oak, vanilla and dried black cherry
alongside drying wood tannins. Caroline Debbané
Selections. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $130
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Villa Canestrari 2008 A (Amarone della Valpolicella). Subdued aromas suggest leather,
Villa Canestrari 2007 Plenum (Amarone della
Valpolicella). Aromas recall grilled herb,
stewed plum, leather and scorched earth. The palate
is rather evolved, offering prune, dried black cherry
and sage alongside fleeting tannins. Nawrocki Imports. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $77
87
Villa Canestrari 2005 10 Anni Riserva (Amarone della Valpolicella). Packaged in an extremely heavy bottle, this features aromas of mocha, vanilla, mature black plum and grilled sage. The
evolved palate offers up prune, raisin, black pepper
and roasted coffee bean but it lacks the fruit richness to support the oak. Nawrocki Imports. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $300
86
Tinazzi 2010 Ca’ de’ Rocchi La Bastia (Amarone della Valpolicella). Packaged in an exceedingly heavy and cumbersome bottle, this wine
is rather inexpressive. It eventually reveals subdued
aromas of wet, leafy underbrush, prune, toasted
oak, espresso and vanilla that carry over to the palate alongside fleeting tannins. Opera Wine Imports.
—K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $46
VERONESE
90
Bolla 2011 Creso (Veronese). For full review
see page 10.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $25
89
Cesari 2010 Jèma Corvina (Veronese). This
opens with earthy aromas of tilled earth,
overripe fruit, leather and whiff of game. The soft,
savory palate offers spicy plum, crushed blackberry, clove and mocha alongside soft tannins. Drink
through 2016. Opici Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $48
87
Tommasi 2012 Arele (Veronese). A blend of
Corvina, Rondinella, Oseleta and Merlot,
this juicy wine delivers ripe plum, black cherry
and raspberry flavors alongside soft, supple tannins. Round and ready, it’s made to be enjoyed soon.
Drink through 2018. Vintus LLC. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
OTHER RED WINES
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Bertani 2011 Villa Arvedi (Amarone della
Valpolicella Valpantena). For full review see
page 6.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $55
88
Elena Walch 2013 Schiava (Alto Adige). A
perfect summer red, this refreshing, lightbodied wine from northern Italy, made with the native Schiava grape, is loaded with bright red cherry,
strawberry and white almond sensations. Thanks to
soft acidity and supple tannins, it’s an ideal wine
to serve chilled and sip as an apéritif or pair with
seafood. Chambers & Chambers. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
87
Cliffhanger Vineyards 2013 Estate Grown Proprietary Red Blend (Vigneti delle Dolomiti).
abv: 13%
Price: $14
PROSECCO
90
Adami 2013 Sul Lievito (Prosecco di Valdobbiadene). Made by refermenting in the bottle and leaving it on its lees without disgorging, this
offers savory flavors of juicy lime, ripe pear, mineral
and a yeasty note of baked bread alongside a soft
mousse. It’s dry and balanced with lively acidity.
Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
90
Le Vigne di Alice 2011 Alice .g Metodo Classico (Prosecco di Conegliano e Valdobbiadene). Savory and refreshing, this Prosecco is made
using the traditional method of refermenting in the
bottle. It offers tart green apple and baked vanilla
cookie aromas that carry over to the palate along
with bright citrus notes. It’s nicely balanced with
brisk acidity and small, persistent bubbles. Porto
Vino Italiano. —K.O.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $48
90
Sorelle Bronca 2013 Difetto Perfetto (Prosecco di Valdobbiadene). This lovely wine
opens with aromas of yellow flower, pear and yellow apple. The juicy fruit sensations carry over to
the palate along with citrusy lemon, yellow peach,
mineral and a light, salty note accompanied by fresh
acidity and a delicate mousse. Refermented in the
bottle but not disgorged, it has a light layer of sediment on the bottom of the bottle that adds to the
depth of flavors. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $23
87
Soligo NV Col Fondo (Prosecco). Refermented
in the bottle, this lively wine delivers yeasty
flavors of bread crust, tropical fruit, green apple
and peach. It’s straightforward and fun, with bright
acidity and soft bubbles. Vinifera Imports. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $19
OTHER SPARKLING WINES
92
Ferrari 2007 Perlé Nero (Trento). Toasted
bread crust, citrus and apple are just some
of the aromas that characterize this lovely sparkler.
A blanc de noirs made with 100% Pinot Nero, it offers a vibrant palate that delivers nectarine, roasted
WINEMAG.COM | 77
BUYINGGUIDE
almond, pastry cream and mineral alongside persistent bubbles and fresh acidity. It also boasts enough
structure to age for several years. Drink through
2017. Palm Bay International. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $78
90
Corte Moschina 2010 Metodo Classico (Lessini Durello). Made from the Durello grape
cultivated on high hills of volcanic origin, this elegant sparkler opens with aromas of Spanish broom,
hay and candied lemon zest. The bright, lively palate
delivers creamy white peach, green apple, juicy citrus and a yeast note of bread crust alongside brisk
acidity. Vi. Sco., Inc.. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $21
90
Corte Moschina 2006 Metodo Classico Riserva (Lessini Durello). Made with the native
grape Durello, this opens with aromas of tropical
fruit, citrus, alpine herb and a hint of beeswax. The
palate delivers juicy white peach, green apple and a
note of menthol alongside brisk acidity and small,
refined bubbles. Vi. Sco., Inc.. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
88
Altemasi NV Rosé Brut (Trento). A lively
blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, this
discloses fragrance of red apple, red berry and hint
of hazelnut. The vibrant palate delivers juicy red
cherry, strawberry and a touch of nut paste alongside a soft mousse. Palm Bay International. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $45
WHITE WINES
91
Cantina Terlano 2011 Nova Domus Riserva
(Alto Adige). A delicious blend of Pinot Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon, this delivers flavors
of juicy Golden Delicious apple, lemon drop, nectarine and candied ginger. Fresh acidity brightens the
creamy palate. Banville Wine Merchants. —K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $60
91
Tenuta San Leonardo 2013 Vette Sauvignon
Blanc (Vigneti delle Dolomiti). This elegant
but firmly structured white wine opens with an
alluring fragrance of honeysuckle, exotic fruit and
cantaloupe. The linear palate offers juicy white
peach, apricot and mineral alongside crisp acidity.
Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
88
Manincor 2012 Moscato Giallo (Alto Adige).
A dry Moscato, this opens with aromas of
grapefruit, clove and nutmeg. The palate delivers
exotic fruit and juicy citrus balanced by crisp, refreshing acidity. It closes on a succulent note. Angel’s Share Wines. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
SWEET WINES
93
Comelli 2011 Eoos Picolit (Colli Orientali del
Friuli). This beautiful, balanced dessert
wine opens with heady aromas of acacia flower,
honey, alpine herb and dried apricot. The concentrated palate offers mature yellow peach, lemon
zest, dried herb and candied ginger alongside bright
acidity that makes this so drinkable. It’s polished
and delicious. Peter Warren Selections. —K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45/500 ml
90
Coffele 2011 Le Sponde (Recioto di Soave
Classico). Aromas of this dessert wine suggest white flower, dried stone fruit and persimmon.
The ripe palate doles out concentrated flavors of
mature pear, banana, dried apricot and a hint of caramel balanced by jfresh acidity. It closes on a note of
white almond. Peter Warren Selections, Haw River
Wine Man. —K.O.
abv: NA
Price: $45/500 ml
90
Fattori 2011 Motto Piane (Recioto di Soave).
Dried lychee, apricot, and baked biscuit
aromas lead the nose on this enveloping dessert
wine. The richly textured palate doles out honey,
mature yellow peach, dried mint and candied citrus
brightened by just enough fresh acidity that gives it
a clean finish. Multiple U.S. importers. —K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
90
Franz Haas 2011 Moscato Rosa (Alto Adige).
This lightly fizzy, ruby-red wine opens with
aromas of white peach, clove, nectarine zest and
rose petal. The elegant palate offers ripe stone fruit,
cinnamon, red currant and rose hip jam. Empson
USA Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $96/375 ml
90
Girlan 2011 Pasithea Oro Gewürztraminer
(Alto Adige). Made with 100% Gewurtztraminer, this offers aromas of dried apricot, mango,
tangerine peel and spice. The rich palate offers up
candied citrus, acacia honey and toasted walnut.
Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $46/375 ml
90
Livio Felluga 2008 Picolit (Rosazzo). Made
with native grape Picolit from Italy’s Friuli region, this dessert wine delivers concentrated
apricot, candied ginger, oak, vanilla, honey and
dried exotic fruit. Pair it with seasoned blue cheeses
or sip as a meditation wine. Mionetto USA. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $125
90
Pieropan 2009 Le Colombare (Recioto di
Soave). Aromas of passion fruit, dried apricot, dill and candied nectarine zest lead the nose
on this concentrated dessert wine. On the palate,
bright acidity adds freshness to the candied lemon,
pastry and yellow peach flavors. Empson USA Ltd.
—K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $55/500 ml
90
Tramin 2011 Terminum Gewürztraminer
(Alto Adige). This intense golden-colored
dessert wine opens with an intense floral fragrance
of Spanish broom and white rose. The sweet, concentrated palate doles out apricot, acacia honey and
cinnamon with just enough fresh acidity to balance
the sweetness. Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $65/375 ml
89
Cantina Produttori Cortaccia 2012 Dolce Bianco Aruna (Alto Adige). Made with 60%
Gewurtztraminer and 40% Moscato Giallo, this
dessert wine opens with aromas of dried white rose
petal, stone fruit and pineapple. The palate delivers dried apricot, glazed orange zest and cinnamon
alongside fresh acidity that carries through to the
finish. Golden Horseshoe Inc. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $18/375 ml
89
Case Paolin 2009 Soér Passito (Veneto).
Made with Manzoni Bianco and Glera
grapes, this opens with subdued aromas of acacia
honey and mature stone fruit. The sweet palate delivers ripe yellow peach, candied ginger and toasted
pine nuts. Superior Wines. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $40/375 ml
89
La Cappuccina 2010 Arzimo (Recioto di
Soave). Made with 100% Garganega, this
amber-colored wine features floral aromas of dried
white spring flower, peach blossom and stone fruit.
On the palate, rosemary and honey accents add interest to ripe yellow peach. It closes on a note of
white toasted almond. Multiple U.S. importers.
—K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $28/500 ml
88
Scubla 2010 Cratis Verduzzo Friulano (Colli
Orientali del Friuli). Aromas of dried apricot
and acacia honey lead the nose on this smooth dessert wine. The concentrated palate delivers candied
citrus and white almond balanced by just enough
freshness. Vinifera Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $36/375 ml
87
Cantina del Castello 2007 Cortepittora (Recioto di Soave Classico). Muted aromas of
toasted almond, caramel and toasted almond carry
over to the palate along with a note of honey. It’s
structured but also rather evolved without much
fruit richness remaining. Petit Pois. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $29/375 ml
88
Pisoni 2000 Vino Santo della Valle dei Laghi
(Trentino). Made with 100% Nosiola, this
golden-colored wine tastes remarkably similar to a
typical Tuscan vinsanto. The nose offers aromas of
dried jasmine and toasted hazelnut that carry over
to the palate along with caramel and dried almond
biscuit. It’s already evolved so drink sooner rather
than later. Cora Import. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $49/375 ml
LOMBARDY
FRANCIACORTA
90
La Valle 2008 Regium Brut (Franciacorta).
An intense fragrance that recalls peach
blossom, lemon blossom and hints of green apple
lead the nose on this sparkling Chardonnay. The
creamy palate delivers white peach, Golden Delicious apple, almond and lemon pastry brightened
by crisp acidity and a steely mineral note. Fine bubbles add a touch of softness on the finish. L.A. Dick
Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
90
Lantieri de Paratico NV Brut Rosé (Franciacorta). This pretty, salmon-colored wine
opens with aromas of red berry, iris and a yeasty
note of bread dough. On the palate, strawberry and
raspberry take center stage while clove and vanilla
add interest. It’s balanced with bright acidity, while
a soft mousse adds elegance. Franciacorta Imports.
—K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
90
Majolini 2009 Satèn Brut (Franciacorta).
Foamy and fragrant, this has an intense
floral fragrance of jasmine, honeysuckle and orange blossom. The fresh, creamy palate offers white
peach, baking spice and lemon pastry alongside a
soft mousse. Franciacorta Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $43
90
Villa 2010 Satèn Brut (Franciacorta). Made
entirely with Chardonnay, this opens with
an inviting fragrance of peach blossom, pear and a
yeasty note of cream-filled pastry. The creamy palate offers up juicy white peach, green apple and
lemon zest alongside an ultrasoft mousse. Just
Quality Importer. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $40
89
La Valle NV Blanc de Noir Extra Brut (Franciacorta). This sparkler made entirely from
Pinot Nero opens with aromas of ripe apple, Bartlett
pear and toast. The linear palate weaves together
peach, citrus zest and toasted hazelnut alongside
persistent bubbles and brisk acidity. L.A. Dick Imports. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $37
89
Lo Sparviere 2007 Extra Brut (Franciacorta).
Made entirely with Chardonnay, this pretty
sparkler opens with aromas of white flower, peach
and citrus backed up by a whiff of bread crust. The
vibrant palate delivers Bartlett pear, mature apple,
lemon zest and toasted almond alongside a soft perlage. Amici Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $45
89
Villa Crespia 2006 Francesco Iacono Dosaggio Zero Riserva (Franciacorta). Made predominantly from Pinot Nero and with no added dosage, this sparkling wine delivers aromas of acacia
flower, toasted almond and honey that carry over to
the palate. It has a fine perlage and a bone-dry finish. Vinifera Imports. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $90
87
Contadi Castaldi 2007 Soul Satèn (Franciacorta). Aromas of ripe Bartlett pear and
yeasty notes of bread dough and toast lead the nose
on this brisk sparkler. The palate displays Golden
Delicious apple skin and roasted hazelnut alongside
sharp, persistent bubbles. Terra Moretti Trading.
—K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $35
ROSÉ
90
Cà dei Frati 2013 Rosa dei Frati (Riviera del
Garda Bresciano). Made with a blend of native red grapes Groppello, Marzemino, Sangiovese
and Barbera grown near Lago di Garda, this refreshing rosato has class and breeding. It opens with
floral aromas of white spring flowers, violet and
berries. The savory palate delivers apple, cherry,
almond and a hint of white pepper alongside lively
acidity. VOS Selections. —K.O.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $24
CENTRAL ITALY
MONTEFALCO ROSSO
93
Adanti 2010 Montefalco Rosso. Structured
yet elegant, this blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and a drop of Cabernet Sauvignon delivers a medley of sensations including crushed blue
flower, black cherry, blackberry, ground white pepper, savory herb, graphite and cinnamon-spice. It’s
impeccably balanced with fresh acidity and firm but
refined tannins. Drink through 2020. David Vincent
Selection. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
93
Milziade Antano 2012 Montefalco Rosso. A
blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Sagrantino
and 15% Merlot, this bold wine conveys earthy aromas of blackberry, leather, tilled soil and a balsamic
note. The ripe, creamy palate delivers juicy black
plum, cassis, savory herb and baking spice balanced
by smooth, velvety tannins. The lingering finish
closes on a note of ground black pepper. T. Edward
Wines Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $20
92
Antonelli 2008 Riserva Montefalco Rosso.
Underbrush, violet, moist soil and spicy
blackberry aromas unfold in the glass of this refined, full-bodied wine. The delicious palate offers
crushed dark cherry, raspberry, white pepper and
clove alongside supple tannins. It ends on a mocha
note. Drink through 2018. Omniwines Distribution.
—K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
92
Di Filippo 2012 Sallustio (Montefalco Rosso).
This certified organic wine—a blend of 60%
Sangiovese, 25% Barbera and 15% Sagrantino—offers an earthy aroma of scorched soil, leather, black
fruit and grilled herb. The juicy palate delivers black
cherry, blackberry, freshly ground green pepper and
sage backed up by assertive tannins. Drink 2017–
2022. Acid Inc Selections. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
92
Perticaia 2011 Montefalco Rosso. Vibrant
and savory, this blend of 70% Sangiovese,
15% Sagrantino and 15% Colorino boasts juicy
black cherry, blackberry and raspberry flavors,
while notes of white pepper and cinnamon add
depth. It’s balanced and delicious with fine-grained
tannins. Enjoy through 2016. BelVino LLC. Editors’
Choice. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
91
Antonelli 2011 Montefalco Rosso. Vibrant
and savory, this blend of 70% Sangiovese,
15% Sagrantino and 15% Merlot delivers succulent
black cherry, crushed plum, black pepper, grilled
herb and mocha flavors alongside firm but velvety
tannins. It’s well balanced with surprisingly fresh
acidity for the hot vintage. It’s already drinking well
but will be even better after 2016. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
90
Cantina Fratelli Pardi 2011 Montefalco Rosso. Bright and silky, this blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
offers aromas of blue flower, spicy red berry and
a hint of leather. The savory palate offers layers of
crushed wild cherry, red raspberry, white pepper
and clove alongside supple tannins. Succulent and
easy drinking, it should be enjoyed through 2016 to
capture fresh fruit. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
90
Di Filippo 2012 Montefalco Rosso. Made
with organically farmed grapes, this blend
of 60% Sangiovese, 30% Barbera and 10% Sagrantino opens with aromas of tilled earth, blue
flower, ripe berry and spice. The dense palate doles
out fleshy black cherry, crushed plum, black pepper and tobacco alongside firm but velvety tannins.
It finishes on a succulent note. Acid Inc Selections.
—K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $18
89
Arnaldo Caprai 2012 Montefalco Rosso. Blue
flower, ripe black fruit, black pepper and
cedar are just some of the aromas offered by this
blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Sagrantino. The
palate features ripe black cherry, coffee, espresso,
vanilla and grilled sage alongside bracing tannins.
Drink after 2016. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
89
Arnaldo Caprai 2009 Riserva (Montefalco
Rosso). A blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15%
Sagrantino and 15% Merlot, this opens with aromas
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of blue flower, plum cake, raisin, mocha and a whiff
of resin. The dense palate offers blackberry, plum,
vanilla, roasted coffee bean and sage alongside
tightly compacted tannins that need to unwind. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $46
89
Le Cimate 2011 Montefalco Rosso. This
blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Cabernet Sauvignon opens with a pretty floral fragrance
of violet, iris and wild berry. The juicy palate doles
out crushed black cherry, blackberry and cinnamon
alongside firm but ripe tannins. Drink through 2017.
Vintage Imports, Inc. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
89
Milziade Antano 2011 Riserva (Montefalco
Rosso). Aromas of leather, prune, mature
dark berry and carob lead the nose on this warm,
brawny wine. The ripe palate offers fig, black cherry-marinated-in-spirits, licorice and tobacco alongside dense tannins. The heat of alcohol is evident on
the midpalate. T. Edward Wines Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $30
89
Roccafiore 2011 Montefalco Rosso. A blend
of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this opens with aromas of violet,
black currant, crushed plum, cedar and spice. The
juicy palate delivers ripe blackberry, black cherry,
white pepper and grilled herb alongside supple tannins. Enjoy through 2016. Multiple U.S. Importers.
—K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
89
Tenuta Alzatura 2011 Montefalco Rosso.
Aromas of truffle, ripe plum, grilled mushroom and herb lead the nose on this full-bodied but
wonderfully easy-drinking wine. The savory palate
delivers juicy black cherry, crushed raspberry and
cinnamon alongside supple tannins. Enjoy it soon to
capture the fresh fruit flavors. Drink through 2016.
Banfi Vintners. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
89
Tenuta Castelbuono 2010 Ziggurat (Montefalco Rosso). This blend of 70% Sangiovese,
15% Sagrantino, 8% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Sauvignon offers aromas of underbrush, espresso, mocha and blackberry. On the palate, coffee and vanilla
notes back up ripe plum, black cherry and white
pepper. Firm, tightly knit tannins give structure but
needs time to soften and unwind. Palm Bay International. Best Buy. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $13
89
Tenuta Castelbuono 2009 Lampante Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). Blue flower, ripe
berry and baking spice aromas unfold in the glass
of this blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Cabernet
and Merlot. The juicy palate delivers black cherry,
vanilla, cinnamon and espresso alongside bracing
tannins. Palm Bay International. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
89
Terre de la Custodia 2011 Montefalco Rosso.
Aromas of leafy underbrush, tilled soil,
game, and ripe black fruit lead the nose on this
savory red. On the palate, notes of grilled sage and
mocha back up the juicy black cherry and crushed
raspberry fruit. Give it until 2016–2017 for assertive tannins to unwind. Marcello Guidi. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
89
Villa Mora 2008 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso).
Violet, rose, mature black fruit, leather and
baking spice aromas open this smooth, structured
wine. The palate offers prune, dried cherry, nutmeg and mocha alongside assertive, drying tannins.
Drink 2016–2023. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
88
Cecchi 2011 Montefalco Rosso. A blend of
Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Merlot, this
offers aromas of crushed plum, toast and espresso.
The succulent palate delivers black cherry, raspberry, clove and coffee alongside smooth, polished
tannins. Drink through 2017. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
Lungarotti 2011 Montefalco Rosso. A blend
of 60% Sangiovese, 25% Merlot and 15%
Sagrantino, this opens with aromas blue flower, red
berry, baking spice and plum. The juicy palate offers
crushed blackberry, vanilla and cinnamon alongside
tightly knit but fine-grained tannins. Vin Divino.
—K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
88
Romanelli 2010 Montefalco Rosso. A
blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and small
amounts of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this
opens with aromas of blue flower, red berry, toast,
espresso and a suggestion of incense. The linear
palate offers dried cherry, prune, slate and licorice
alongside grippy tannins. Drink through 2018. Simioni Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
88
Tenute del Cerro 2011 Montefalco Rosso.
Violet, ripe plum, graphite and espresso
aromas waft out of the glass. The palate delivers
crushed black cherry, toasted oak, savory herb, and
roasted coffee bean alongside bracing tannins. Vias
Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
87
Campo della Maestà 2010 Montefalco Rosso.
Aromas of crushed violet, earth, toasted oak,
espresso and wood chips lead the nose. The evolved
palate offers prune, dried cherry, roasted coffee
bean and ground pepper notes alongside assertive
tannins. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
87
Campo della Maestà 2008 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). This opens with aromas of
woodshop, sawdust, roasted coffee bean and a whiff
of berry. The evolved palate delivers mocha, vanil-
la, toasted wood and dried black cherry alongside
fleeting tannins. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
87
Cantina Tudernum 2010 Fidenzio (Montefalco Rosso). Here’s a blend of 65% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and 15% Sagrantino that features
aromas of toasted oak, leafy underbrush and freshly
ground black pepper. The palate offers up dried
black cherry, espresso, roasted coffee bean, graphite
and licorice alongside drying tannins. It’s evolving
quickly so enjoy soon. Enoclassica Selection. —K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
87
Moretti Omero 2012 Montefalco Rosso. A
blend of 65% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot and
15% Sagrantino, this offers aromas of vanilla, coffee, espresso and plum. The lively palate displays
ripe black cherry, black currant, toasted oak and
mocha alongside drying, astringent tannins. VOS
Selections.—K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
87
Perticaia 2010 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso).
Leafy underbrush, graphite, espresso, grilled
herb and prune aromas lead the nose on this blend
of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Colorino. On the palate, roasted coffee bean, licorice and black pepper
notes back up dried black cherry. Bracing tannins
leave a mouth-drying finish. BelVino LLC. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $38
87
Rocca di Fabbri 2011 Montefalco Rosso. This
blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Montepulciano has aromas of toasted oak, mocha and
blackberry preserves. The dense palate offers dried
black cherry, fig, espresso, toast and clove alongside
chewy, drying tannins. You’ll also detect the presence of alcohol on the midpalate. Monsieur Touton
Selection Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $18
87
Rocca di Fabbri 2010 Montefalco Rosso. This
sturdy wine offers aromas of blackberry jam,
licorice, baking spice and a whiff of barnyard. The
warm, robust palate delivers mature black plum,
black cherry, black pepper, roasted coffee bean and
sage alongside excruciatingly bitter, mouth-drying
tannins. The heat of alcohol appears on the midpalate. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $32
87
Villa Mora 2010 Montefalco Rosso. Made
with Sangiovese, Merlot and Sagrantino,
this opens with subdued, earthy aromas of leafy
underbrush, tilled soil, berry and a hint of clove.
The palate offers juicy wild cherry, raspberry, nutmeg and white pepper alongside mature and rather
fleeting tannins. Drink through 2016. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
86
Rocca di Fabbri 2008 Riserva (Montefalco
Rosso). Aromas of resin, prune, mocha and
nail varnish lead the nose. The palate is already
evolved, showing fig, dried date, black pepper and
nutmeg alongside fleeting tannins and evident alcohol. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $25
86
Signae 2011 Red Blend (Montefalco Rosso).
A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot, Sagrantino
and a drop of Cabernet, this has aromas of toasted
oak, rubber and roasted coffee bean. The subdued
palate offers dried black cherry, dried sage and black
pepper alongside evolved, fleeting tannins. Allied
Beverage Group. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
86
Signae 2009 Montefalco Rosso. Aromas
suggest toasted oak, green peppercorn,
espresso, woodshop and sawdust. The palate is
starting to dry up, displaying dried cherry, roasted
coffee bean and evident alcohol alongside raspy tannins. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
86
Tabarrini 2011 Montefalco Rosso. This
brawny red conveys aromas of wood shop,
oak, spearmint and coffee. The one-dimensional
palate displays oak extract, dried red berry, and
roasted coffee bean alongside drying wood tannins.
It doesn’t have enough fruit richness to balance the
oak and the heat of alcohol is evident on the midpalate. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $29
85
Bocale 2011 Montefalco Rosso. Aromas of
espresso, oak, vanilla, prune and mocha follow through to the warm palate along with dried
black cherry, fig, roasted coffee bean, powdered sage
and evident alcohol. It’s already evolved, with fleeting but drying tannins. Golden State Wine. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $20
85
Signae 2008 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso).
Woodshop aromas, toast, espresso and cedar aromas lead the nose. The palate offers dried
currants, vanilla-infused oak, roasted coffee bean,
dried sage and black pepper. This is already evolved
and lacks fruit richness. Allied Beverage Group.
—K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
MONTEFALCO SAGRANTINO
96
Milziade Antano 2010 Colleallodole (Montefalco Sagrantino). Rich and concentrated,
this gorgeous, terroir-driven wine opens with aromas of crushed blue flower, graphite, plum and pipe
tobacco. The powerful but weightless palate weaves
together ripe black cherry, blackberry, clove, black
pepper and mineral while velvety tannins offer support. Drink 2016–2035. T. Edward Wines Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $70
95
Arnaldo Caprai 2010 25 Anni (Montefalco Sagrantino). Aromas of black cherry marinat-
ed in spirits, leather, underbrush, licorice and black
pepper unfold in the glass of this sleek, powerfully
structured wine. The glossy palate doles out mature
black plum, blackberry, clove, nutmeg, grilled herb
and mocha while a licorice note closes the lingering finish. It’s still young and tightly wound with an
assertive, tannic backbone. Drink 2018–2030. Folio
Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
93
Cantina Fratelli Pardi 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino. Crushed black raspberry, plum,
clove and white pepper are among the inviting aromas of this bold wine. The richly textured palate
offers blackberry, mature cherry, black pepper and
baking spice. Thanks to smooth, velvety tannins, it
seamlessly combines power and grace. Drink 2016–
2022. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $38
95
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Cantina Fratelli Pardi 2010 Sacrantino (Montefalco Sagrantino). Blue flower, moist soil,
leather, game, ripe dark berry and graphite are just
some of the aromas of this powerfully structured,
delicious wine. The palate delivers layers of juicy
black cherry, blackberry, raspberry, white pepper
and clove alongside youthfully assertive but ripe
tannins. Drink 2017–2030. de Grazia Imports LLC.
Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $60
Milziade Antano 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Smooth and velvety, this powerfully
structured wine opens with earthy aromas of tilled
soil, mature plum, game, leather and just a hint
of barnyard. The ripe palate doles out layers juicy
blackberry, black cherry, tobacco, nutmeg and
ground black pepper alongside big, velvety tannins.
Hold for complexity. Drink 2018–2035. T. Edward
Wines Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $40
94
Tenuta Bellafonte 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Forest floor, ripe black fruit, truffle,
leather and balsamic aromas open this bold, concentrated wine. The delicious palate offers layers of
blackberry, spicy plum, black pepper, cassis and savory herb alongside big, velvety tannins. It has balance and depth but it’s still young and needs time
to develop complexity. Drink 2018–2030. Empson
USA Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
94
Tenuta Castelbuono 2008 Carapace Montefalco Sagrantino. Ripe black plum, leather,
game, truffle, blackberry and tobacco aromas unfold
in the glass. These follow through to the rich palate
along with black cherry, clove and baking spice. It’s
structured but elegant, with velvety tannins and a
smooth texture. Drink 2016–2028. Palm Bay International. Cellar Selection. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
93
Antonelli 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino.
Prune, ripe berries, freshly ground black
pepper and clove aromas lead the nose on this ripe,
muscular wine. The palate delivers black cherry
marinated in spirits and juicy plum while accents
of nutmeg, tobacco and licorice add depth. It’s still
young, with youthfully assertive and tightly compact tannins. Drink 2017–2024. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
Adanti 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino. Aromas of underbrush, leather, truffle and a
balsamic note lead the nose on this lush wine. On
the concentrated palate, ripe plum and blackberry
take center stage while notes of vanilla, mocha, licorice and clove play supporting roles. Velvety tannins
generate a smooth texture and make it extremely
approachable. Drink through 2019. David Vincent
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
Arnaldo Caprai 2009 25 Anni (Montefalco
Sagrantino). Blue flower, leather, tobacco,
espresso and spicy plum aromas unfold in the glass.
The tightly wound palate offers toasted oak, coffee,
sage and dried black fruit alongside bracing, teethcoating tannins. Give this time to unwind. Drink
2017–2024. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
92
Arnaldo Caprai 2009 Collepiano (Montefalco Sagrantino). Polished and spicy, this
structured wine features aromas of leather, truffle,
blackberry and savory herb. The juicy palate delivers layers of fleshy black plum, black cherry, freshly
ground peppercorn, tobacco and thyme alongside
big, velvety tannins. Drink 2016–2024. Folio Fine
Wine Partners. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
91
Antonelli 2007 Chiusa di Pannone (Montefalco Sagrantino). A subdued nose offers whiffs
of leather, tobacco, black plum and an earthy note of
game. The palate delivers blackberry, prune, white
pepper and savory herb. It’s already accessible with
smooth, almost slippery tannins. Drink through
2019. Omniwines Distribution. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $70
91
Di Filippo 2010 Etnico (Montefalco Sagrantino). Earthy aromas of leafy underbrush,
leather, ripe blackberry, savory herb and baking
spice lead the nose on this warm, full-bodied red.
The lush, juicy palate offers ripe black plum, fig,
black pepper and graphite alongside velvety tannins. A licorice note signals the close. Acid Inc Selections. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
91
Falesco 2010 RC2 (Montefalco Sagrantino).
Aromas of plum cake, spicy blueberry and
cocoa unfold in the glass of this structured wine.
The palate delivers black cherry, vanilla, graphite,
ground black pepper and well-integrated oak alongside assertive but refined tannins. It has muscle
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BUYINGGUIDE
but also shows elegance and restraint. Drink 2015–
2025. Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
alongside bracing tannins. Multiple U.S. Importers.
—K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
tract, vanilla and espresso framed in firm tannins.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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Arnaldo Caprai 2010 Collepiano (Montefalco
Sagrantino). Aromas of spicy plum cake,
blueberry, forest floor, leather, oak and resin unfold in the glass. The palate weaves together black
cherry, blackberry, licorice and tobacco alongside
youthfully austere tannins that need time to soften
and unwind. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
Romanelli 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Underbrush, forest floor, crushed violet, new
leather, mature plum and graphite aromas lead the
nose on this brawny red. The hearty palate delivers
dried black cherry, blackberry, nutmeg, grilled sage
and licorice alongside youthfully aggressive but ripe
tannins. Drink 2015–2025. Simões Imports. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $40
Terre de la Custodia 2003 Exubera (Montefalco Sagrantino). This brawny, earthy
11-year-old opens with aromas of leather, game, tobacco, graphite and mature plum. Given its age, it’s
surprisingly youthful, displaying dried dark cherry,
fig, prune, black pepper and tobacco flavors alongside an assertive, tannic backbone. Drink through
2018. Marcello Guidi. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $100
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Campo della Maestà 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino. Full-bodied but accessible, this
delivers ripe dark cherry, plum, black pepper and
clove flavors. Fresh and balanced with polished tannins, it’s already drinking well. Drink through 2019.
Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Cantina Tudernum 2009 Fidenzio (Montefalco Sagrantino). Leather, tobacco, mature
plum and clove aromas unfold in the glass. The
robust palate doles out fleshy blackberry, cherries
marinated in spirits, licorice and nutmeg while assertive tannins offer support. The heat of alcohol
shows on the finish. Drink through 2019. Enoclassica Selection. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $45
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Cecchi 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Truffle,
game, leather and black plum aromas open
this earthy, full-bodied red. The palate offers ripe
blackberry, juicy black cherry, mocha, white pepper
and savory herb alongside assertive, drying tannins.
It ends on a licorice note. Terlato Wines International. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $37
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Roccafiore 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino.
Robust and concentrated, this has a subdued nose that offers whiffs of steeped plum, forest
floor and allspice. The palate displays dried black
cherry, blackberry, espresso and grated nutmeg
Signae 2011 Semèle (Montefalco Sagrantino). Aromas of prune, mature blackberry
and baking spice open this dense dessert wine. The
palate doles out blackberry jam, dried black berry
and vanilla alongside chewy tannins. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $39
Villa Mora 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino.
Spicy and full-bodied, this features aromas
of blue flower, ground black pepper, plum cake and a
whiff of scorched earth. The palate offers dried black
cherry, mineral, clove and a nutmeg note alongside
tightly knit but refined tannins. It’s a fresher and
more approachable expression of Sagrantino compared to many of the heartier versions out there.
Drink through 2019. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
Di Filippo 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino.
Made with organically farmed fruit, this
opens with aromas of ripe plum, tilled earth, leather
and spice. The dense, warm palate delivers crushed
blackberry, blueberry extract, oak, black pepper,
espresso and cinnamon alongside big, velvety tannins. It’s flamboyant but it’s shy on freshness and
the burn of searing alcohol throws it off balance.
Acid Inc Selections. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $50
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Lungarotti 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino.
Grilled pepper, stewed black fruit, black
currant, cedar and blackberry aromas lead the nose
on this full-bodied red. The palate offers black
plum, cherry marinated in spirits, black pepper and
clove. It’s still tightly wound with austere, astringent tannins. Drink after 2017. Vin Divino. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
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Tabarrini 2010 Campo alla Cerqua (Montefalco Sagrantino). Aromas of prune, wet
underbrush, leather, grilled mushroom and plum
liqueur start off this robust wine. The dense palate
displays dried black cherry, blueberry extract and
black pepper alongside tightly compacted and still
raspy tannins. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $68
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Tabarrini 2010 Colle alle Macchie (Montefalco Sagrantino). Aromas include blackberry compote, game, overripe plum and allspice.
The dense palate offers cassis, blueberry extract,
black pepper and licorice alongside astringent tannins. The heat of alcohol shows on the midpalate.
Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $77
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Tenute del Cerro 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino. Aromas of leafy underbrush, roasted
coffee bean and dried black cherry open this robust
wine. The palate offers prune, fig, oak, blueberry ex-
Terre de la Custodia 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino. The nose on this structured wine
is rather subdued but eventually reveals notes of
crushed blue flower, blackberry and leather. The
palate offers mature black cherry, raspberry, black
pepper and sage alongside raspy tannins. Marcello
Guidi. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $39
Bocale 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Thick
and concentrated, this opens with aromas of
blueberry jam, toasted oak, wet underbrush, baking
spice and a touch of vanilla. The tight palate offers
dried black cherry, prune, tobacco, grilled sage and
evident alcohol alongside astringent tannins that
dry out the finish. Golden State Wine. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
Còlpetrone 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino.
Aromas of game, tilled earth, underbrush,
leather, cocoa and scorched earth lead the nose. The
evolved palate shows the heat of the vintage with
stewed black plum, roasted coffee bean and mocha
alongside fleeting tannins that leave a drying finish.
The warmth of alcohol shows on the midpalate. Vias
Imports. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $58
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Le Cimate 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Aromas suggest espresso, dried black currant,
cedar and grilled herb. The warm palate offers oak,
vanilla, licorice, stewed prune and evident alcohol.
There’s not quite enough fruit to support the ironclad tannins that leave a mouth-puckering finish.
Vintage Imports, Inc. —K.O.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $42
87
Moretti Omero 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino.
Made with organically farmed grapes, this
has aromas of spicy blackberry, toasted oak, espresso and spearmint. The palate offers oak extract, mocha, fig and licorice alongside clenched, astringent
tannins. VOS Selections.—K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $48
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Moretti Omero 2008 Montefalco Sagrantino. This hearty wine opens with aromas
of lily, dried blue flower and black plum. The lively
palate offers toasted oak, blackberry extract, vanilla and espresso alongside bracing tannins. VOS
Selections.—K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $85
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Perticaia 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino.
Roasted coffee bean, toasted oak, dried tobacco leaf and grilled porcini mushroom aromas
open this powerfully structured, tannic wine. The
palate displays dried black cherry, vanilla, licorice,
roasted coffee bean and a confectionary note, but
not enough fruit richness to stand up to the raspy,
drying tannins. BelVino LLC. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
87
Tabarrini 2010 Colle Grimaldesco (Montefalco Sagrantino). Spicy plum, overripe raspberry, black pepper and espresso aromas open this
concentrated wine. The dense, warm palate offers
dark cherry marinated in spirits, dried blackberry,
prune and licorice framed by austere, astringent
tannins and evident alcohol that throws it off balance. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
87
Tenuta Alzatura 2010 Montefalco Sagrantino. Earthy aromas recall truffle, underbrush, game and ripe plum accented with espresso.
The palate offers spicy plum, dried blackberry, dried
sage and licorice alongside massively astringent
tannins. Banfi Vintners. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Tenuta Alzatura 2009 Montefalco Sagrantino. Aromas include underbrush, truffle,
plum, espresso and grilled herb. The palate offers
prune, dried cherry, soy sauce, vanilla, oak extract
and roasted coffee bean alongside bracing and rather astringent wood tannins. Banfi Vintners. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $40
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Signae 2007 Amedeo (Montefalco Sagrantino). Oak, toast, leafy underbrush and
steeped plum aromas segue to the palate that shows
coffee, vanilla, stewed blackberry and a confectionary note. The fruit is drying up quickly, making the
astringent tannins and evident alcohol even more
noticeable. Allied Beverage Group. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $108
UMBRIA RED WINES
90
Falesco 2011 Marciliano (Umbria). A blend
of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30%
Cabernet Franc, this full-bodied red offers aromas
of red currant, cassis, grilled bell pepper and cedar.
The palate delivers dried black cherry, espresso,
toast, sage and mocha alongside assertive tannins.
Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
88
Falesco 2012 Vitiano Cabernet (Umbria).
Aromas of black currant, plum, toast and
espresso lead the nose on this young, soft Cabernet.
The rich, easy-drinking palate doles out ripe black
cherry and blackberry accented with notes of mocha and vanilla. Round tannins give it a smooth texture. Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
87
Sportoletti 2011 Villa Fidelia (Umbria). A
blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Cabernet Franc, this dense wine opens with varietal
aromas of bell pepper, black currant and cedar. The
thick, evolved palate offers black fruit and exotic
spice but the fruit fades quickly, leaving raw alcohol
sensations to dominate the midpalate and finish.
Massanois Imports. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
86
Campo della Maestà 2011 Benozzo (Umbria).
Made with 100% Sagrantino, this presents aromas of grilled sage, espresso, blue flower
and blackberry. On the palate, mature plum and a
confectionary note back up oak-driven sensations
of coconut, vanilla and mocha. It’s already evolved
and rather shy on freshness, with muted, fleeting
tannins. Drink through 2016. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $33
LAZIO RED WINES
92
Falesco 2011 Montiano Merlot (Lazio). Rich
and concentrated, this lush wine weaves
together crushed black cherry, spicy plum, ripe
blackberry, ground white pepper and freshly grated
nutmeg. Bold with velvety tannins, it has a smooth
texture and a lingering finish. Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
90
Principe Pallavicini 2012 Amarasco Cesanese
(Lazio). Made from old vines of Cesanese,
this structured red offers an intriguing fragrance of
violets, rose, red berry, scorched earth and a whiff
of nutmeg. The bright, juicy palate delivers wild
cherry, orange peel, clove and baking spice alongside supple, smooth tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
88
Falesco 2013 Tellus Syrah (Lazio). Aromas
of ripe black plum, grilled bell pepper, baking spice and a whiff of blue flower unfold in the
glass. The rich palate doles out fleshy black cherry,
blackberry extract and licorice while smooth tannins provide support. Winebow. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
OTHER RED WINES
92
Lungarotti 2008 Vigna Monticchio (Torgiano
Rosso Riserva). This iconic bottling, a blend
of 70% Sangiovese and 30% Canaiolo, features
aromas of ripe black fruit, violet, grilled herb, toast
and espresso. The palate delivers juicy black cherry,
crushed raspberry, vanilla and mocha alongside
firm but refined tannins. It closes on a licorice note.
Drink 2015–2023. Vin Divino. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
88
Corte dei Papi 2013 Colle Ticchio (Cesanese
del Piglio). A fifty-fifty blend of native
grapes Cesanese di Affile and Cesanese Comune, this
savory, medium-bodied charmer offers juicy black
currant, blackberry, white pepper and intriguing
charred notes. It’s well balanced with fresh acidty
and lithe tannis that offer easy-drinking pleasure.
abv: 14%
Price: $19
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Sportoletti 2012 Assisi. A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this
offers ripe black cherry, red currant, raspberry and
baking spice flavors alongside silky, supple tannins.
Fresh and savory, this is a great wine for everyday
fare and informal occasions. Massanois Imports.
—K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
87
Corte dei Papi 2012 San Magno (Cesanese
del Piglio). Oak, espresso, plum and roasted
aromas lead the nose on this red made from Lazio’s
native Cesanese grape. The forward palate offers
wild cherry, coffee bean, tobacco and toasted oak
alongside ripe tannins. Drink through 2016. Vias
Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $29
87
Falesco 2013 Vitiano (Umbria). This savory
blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Sangiovese delivers red currant, juicy black cherry,
white pepper and a licorice note balanced by fresh
acidity and polished tannins. It’s informal and made
to be enjoyed young. Winebow. Best Buy. —K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Lungarotti 2011 Rubesco (Torgiano). Fragrant and refined, this easygoing blend of
Sangiovese and Colorino opens with aromas of blue
flower and bright red berry. The juicy palate offers
red cherry, crushed raspberry and clove brightened
by fresh acidity and framed in lithe, subtle tannins.
Drink through 2016. Vin Divino. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
86
Scambia 2006 Pinot Nero (Allerona). This
Pinot Nero from Umbria unfolds with an
unusual combination of aromas that includes medicinal herbs, antiseptic, mint thyme and red berries. The palate is almost sweet, with overripe
strawberry and morello cherry accented with cinnamon and white pepper. There’s evident alcohol
on the warm midpalate. Opera Wine Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $65
LAMBRUSCO DI SORBARA
90
Cantina Cavicchioli 2013 Vigna del Cristo
(Lambrusco di Sorbara). Crushed violet and
ripe raspberry aromas lead the nose on this elegant
wine. The creamy, frothy palate doles out bright
sour cherry, wild strawberry, nectarine and cake
spice. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $18
90
Cantina della Volta 2010 Rosé Metodo Classico (Lambrusco di Modena). Elegant yet extremely accessible, this presents aromas of bright
red berry, clove and a whiff of baked bread. The
savory palate offers crushed raspberry, wild straw-
WINEMAG.COM | 83
BUYINGGUIDE
berry, toasted hazelnut and cinnamon alongside a
soft mousse and fresh acidity. Panebianco, Golden
State Wine. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $30
90
Cleto Chiarli 2013 Vecchia Modena Premium
(Lambrusco di Sorbara). Fragrant and elegant, this vibrant wine has aromas of crushed
violet and spice. The creamy palate doles out juicy
wild strawberry, raspberry and cake spice alongside
zesty acidity. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $16
89
Paltrinieri 2013 Sant’Agata (Lambrusco di
Sorbara). Fruity, fresh and frothy, this savory red opens with a lovely fragrance of violet, iris
and woodland berry. The tangy, refreshing palate
doles out raspberry, strawberry, baking spice and
a hint of nectarine zest. Porto Vino Italiano. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $17
87
Cantina della Volta 2010 Metodo Classico
Brut (Lambrusco di Modena). Made with the
Lambrusco di Sorbara grape, this conveys aromas of
crushed violet, dried red berry and toasted hazelnut. The lively palate offers raspberry, nut and pink
grapefruit alongside persistent bubbles and brisk
acidity. Panebianco, Golden State Wine. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $25
87
Cantina della Volta 2009 Metodo Classico
Brut (Lambrusco di Modena). Made with
Lambrusco di Sorbara, this sparkler opens with
aromas of violet, iris and red berry. The juicy palate
offers wild cherry, crushed raspberry and a yeasty
note of toasted bread crust alongside crisp acidity
and tingly, persistent bubbles. Panebianco, Golden
State Wine. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
87
Villa di Corlo 2013 Primevo (Lambrusco di
Sorbara). Violet and bright red berry aromas
leap from the glass of this frothy, informal red. The
lively palate offers juicy strawberry, crushed rasberry and light spice notes with just a hint of citrus.
Savory and refreshing, it’s throughly enjoyable. Vinilandia USA. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $17
86
Cantina di Sorbara NV Nicchia Amabile
(Lambrusco di Sorbara). Fruity aromas of
ripe plum, crushed blackberry and wild raspberry
follow through to the lively palate. It’s off dry, with
bright acidity and a light effervescence. T. Edward
Wines Ltd. —K.O.
abv: 8%
Price: $13
86
Cantina di Sorbara 2013 San Giuseppe Demi
Sec (Lambrusco di Sorbara). This frothy red
dessert wine opens with aromas of blue flower, ripe
berry and cake spice. The off-dry palate offers candied red cherry, sweet plum, cinnamon and a confectionary note alongside bright acidity. Solstars
Inc. —K.O.
abv: 8%
Price: $NA
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Cantina di Sorbara NV Amorosa Amabile
Rosato (Lambrusco di Sorbara). Intensely
fruity, this simple dessert sparkler offers juicy raspberry, crushed red cherry and strawberry alongside
vanilla and a confectionary note. Bright acidity offsets the semisweet flavors. Solstars Inc. —K.O.
abv: 8%
Price: $NA
Cantina di Sorbara 2013 Allegro Amabile
Rosé (Lambrusco di Sorbara). This simple,
semisweet wine opens with aromas of blue flower
and ripe red berry. The easygoing palate offers sweet
candied cherry, strawberry, papaya and confectionary notes alongside fresh acidity. Solstars Inc.
—K.O.
abv: 8%
Price: $10
Cantina di Sorbara NV Allegro Amabile (Lambrusco di Sorbara). This deeply colored,
slightly sparkling dessert wine opens with aromas
of ripe plum and raisin. The dense palate offers
dried black cherry and sweet blueberry extract.
D&D Italia srl. —K.O.
abv: 8%
Price: $10
Cantina di Sorbara NV Allegro Amabile Rosé
(Lambrusco di Sorbara). This bubbly, semisweet and simple Lambrusco offers bright fruit
flavors of crushed strawberry and red raspberry
alongside a confectionary note and tangy acidity.
D&D Italia srl. —K.O.
abv: 8%
Price: $NA
LAMBRUSCO GRASPAROSSA DI
CASTELVETRO
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Cantina Cavicchioli NV Robanera (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Aromas
of crushed blue flower, spicy blueberry, juicy blackberry and baking spice characterize this savory,
inky colored sparkler. The vivacious, off-dry palate
is balanced by fresh acidity that leaves a clean finish. It’s thoroughly enjoyable. Frederick Wildman &
Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —K.O.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $12
88
Zanasi 2013 La Grasparossa Secco (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Plum, cassis and blueberry preserve aromas open this bubbly
Lambrusco. The dry, savory palate offers crushed
raspberry, blackberry, graphite and a hint of clove
alongside brisk acidity and chewy tannins. Summit
Selections. Editors’ Choice. —K.O.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $14
87
Villa di Corlo 2013 Frizzante Secco (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Frothy and
robust, this presents aromas of blue flower, ripe
plum, fig and cassis that carry over to the palate,
along with spicy blueberry. It’s balanced with sharp
acidity and hearty tannins. Vinilandia USA. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $17
Zanasi 2012 Piè Franco Secco (Lambrusco
Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Aromas of cassis, spicy black plum and juicy blackberry follow
through to the palate, balanced by ripe, round tannins. A licorice note signals the finish. Summit Selections. —K.O.
abv: 12%
Price: $25
Cleto Chiarli 2013 Centenario Amabile (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). Frothy
and informal, this semisweet, fruity red delivers
sensations of crushed black grapes, fleshy blackberry and wild raspberry. It has a clean, refreshing
finish. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —K.O.
abv: 8%
Price: $12
Villa di Corlo 2012 Rossoestella (Lambrusco
Grasparossa di Castelvetro). This frothy,
inky-colored wine has a floral fragrance of violet,
prune and tilled earth. The semisweet, slightly
tannic palate offers blackberry extract, raisin and
a confectionary note. Pair it with fruit tarts. Vinilandia USA. —K.O.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $16
La Battagliola 2013 15 (Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro). This easygoing
sparkler opens with aromas of dark fruit and blue
flower. The simple, zesty palate offers blackberry
and blueberry alongside steely bubbles. Soilair Selection. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $19
OTHER SPARKLING WINES
85
La Battagliola 2013 30 (Lambrusco
dell’Emilia). Made with Grasparossa and
Ancellotta grapes, this simple, off-dry Lambrusco
delivers dense blackberry, spicy blueberry, raspberry and black pepper flavors alongside chewy
tannins. Crisp acidity gives it a clean finish. Soilair
Selection. —K.O.
abv: 11%
Price: $19
84
Terre de la Custodia NV Sublime Gladius Brut
(Colli Martani). A blend of Grechetto and
Pinot Nero, this conveys aromas of toasted walnut,
apple and citrus. The palate is a bit disjointed, offering bitter apple skin and almond skin alongside
candied lemon drops and a confectionary note.
Marcello Guidi. —K.O.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
SWEET WINES
92
Arnaldo Caprai 2008 Passito (Montefalco
Sagrantino). This rich, full-bodied dessert
wine offers aromas of spicy plum, blackberry, prune
and graphite. The dense palate doles out layers of
blueberry syrup, clove and nutmeg alongside fresh
acidity that makes this very drinkable. Folio Fine
Wine Partners. —K.O.
abv: 15%
Price: $54/375 ml
91
Cantina Fratelli Pardi 2009 Passito (Montefalco Sagrantino). This inky purple dessert
wine delivers high-toned fruit flavors of blueberry, blackberry jam, cinnamon, mocha and vanilla.
Chewy tannins offer support and close on a nutmeg
note. de Grazia Imports LLC. —K.O.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $70/375 ml
90
Lungarotti 2009 Passito (Montefalco Sagrantino). Aromas of mature prune, blackberry and baking spice lead the nose and follow
through to the rich palate along with cinnamon. It’s
balanced with fresh acidity and chewy tannins. Vin
Divino. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $60/375 ml
89
Còlpetrone 2009 Passito (Montefalco Sagrantino). This concentrated dessert wine
opens with subdued aromas of dried black cherry,
spice and raisin. The palate offers prune, toasted
walnut and black pepper alongside polished tannins. Vias Imports. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $33/375 ml
89
Villa Mora 2010 Passito (Montefalco Sagrantino). This dense dessert wine conveys
aromas of fig, prune and blackberry jam. The palate offers dried black cherry, dark chocolate and
cake spice alongside chewy tannins. Allied Beverage
Group. —K.O.
abv: 14%
Price: $35/375 ml
88
Campo della Maestà 2010 Passito (Montefalco Sagrantino). Subdued aromas of dried
blackberry, spicy plum and clove lead the nose on
this dessert wine. The palate offers prune, dried
date and cake spice alongside mellow tannins and
just enough fresh acidity to keep it from being cloying. Montcalm Wine Importers. —K.O.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40/375 ml
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Terre de la Custodia 2009 Melanto Passito
(Montefalco Sagrantino). Mature plum, raisin, carob and cinnamon aromas start off this dense
dessert wine. The palate doles out concentrated
blueberry, dried blackcurrant, cedar, candied ginger, chocolate and a note of black pepper. Marcello
Guidi. —K.O.
abv: 16%
Price: $39
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BUYINGGUIDE
SPIRITS
How wheat it is: A study in vodka
T
his month, we’re taking a closer look at
tribute to vodka made from wheat.” In addition,
vodkas made with wheat. Compared to
wheat is relatively high in acidity, he explains,
earthier potato vodkas and spice-laden
and it’s common for the citric acid to reflect as
rye vodkas, wheat-based vodkas are gena citrusy zing in wheat-based vodkas.
erally light and crisp, and often have a pleasingReady to pop open one of the bottles listed
ly silky texture.
below? Vodka is famously cocktail-friendly—
To put wheat-based vodkas into conand to best showcase a wheat vodka in a cocktext, Tony Abou-Ghanim, a Las
tail, make a beeline for the fruit
Vegas-based mixologist and aubowl. Abou-Ghanim says that
Although vodka is the vanilla sweetness found in
thor of Vodka Distilled, suggests
thinking about baked goods technically defined wheat vodka balances when
made with the same grains used
as colorless, odor- juiced with lemon and a bit of
to make spirits. Where cornmeal
simple syrup, as in a vodka colless and flavorless, lins, or lime and sugar in a caipmuffins (a proxy for corn-based
moonshine) are sweet and rye many vodkas retain iroska (that’s like a caiprinha,
bread (or rye-based vodka) is roflavor characteris- but made with vodka instead
bust, wheat bread—and wheattics, though often of cachaça). Or play up wheat
ed vodkas—will be “soft and apvodka’s natural creaminess in
extremely subtle. a dessert-like cocktail, like a
proachable.”
Although vodka is techniwhite Russian (vodka, coffee lically defined as “colorless, odorless and flavorqueur and cream).
less,” and producers deliberately seek to create
But before you start mixing, Abou-Ghanim
a neutral product, many vodkas retain flavor
suggests taking a moment to taste wheat vodcharacteristics, though often extremely subtle.
ka straight up and at room temperature to realFor example, Abou-Ghanim rattles off a list
ly savor its “rich, creamy, full-bodied feel,” esof flavors/aromas he often detects: “Vanilla,
pecially if you can snag a non-wheat vodka to
light pepper, bread-dough, malty, grainy, egg
compare against.
cream, cream soda—all these are notes that I at
—Kara Newman
96
Absolut Elyx (Sweden; Pernod Ricard, New
York, NY). This vodka is simply clean, from
the mildly sweet aroma to the crisp finish. The palate holds pleasant notes of marshmallow, grapefruit
peel and chalk give way to a faint vanilla-citrus exit.
Made from single-estate grain distilled in a 1921
copper column still, this is an ideal companion for
pretty much anything served in a martini glass.
abv: 42.3%
Price: $49/1 L
92
Russian Diamond Vodka (Russia; DUN Beverage Partners, Sparta, NJ). Made from a
wheat and rye blend, this silky vodka is neutral
overall, with a faint citrusy scent and mild sweetness on the palate. The spirit is filtered through a
myriad of materials, including Siberian pine needles, fabric, and as befits the name, various precious
metals and stones.
abv: 40%
Price: $25
91
Voli Vodka (France; Voli Vodka LLC, Miami, FL).
This vodka, made from French wheat, has a
hint of anise in the aroma and a slightly sweet vanilla note on the palate, finishing brisk and citrusy. It
feels light, almost airy, and will please vodka drinkers looking to sip or mix. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $25
vodka” for pairings and making cocktails. Distilled
from winter wheat, “with just a whisper” of Slovenian buckwheat (less than 1%), this vodka is generally neutral on the nose and palate, with touches of
grapefruit peel and white pepper on the astringent
finish. Serve well-chilled and possibly paired with
smoked salmon, cheeses or other savory treats.
abv: 40%
Price: $38
90
Tigre Blanc Vodka (France; Terlato Artisan
Spirits, Lake Bluff, IL). Made in the Cognac
region of France and packaged in a particularly gaudy, gold tiger-striped bottle, this vodka has a bit of
spicy tiger bite up front, mingling ginger and white
pepper before fading into a mild, smooth finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $102
90
Blat Vodka (Spain; Vinaio Importers, Bronx,
NY). The producers bill this as “advanced
vodka,” distilled from non-GMO French wheat and
claiming to be “the only vodka 100% free of impurities.” Overall, the spirit is neutral on the nose and
palate, with a tinge of marshmallow sweetness and
a crisp, perky finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $39
89
Ultimat Vodka (Poland; Patron Spirits, Las
Vegas, NV). Made from a blend of wheat, rye
and potato, this vodka has a mild citrus peel note
on the bright, zippy finish and a silky, slightly oily
texture that coats the palate. Ideal for mixing into
cocktails.
abv: 40%
Price: $40
89
Premium Gera Vodka (Lithuania; JAE Imports, Richmond, TX). This wheat-based
vodka is neutral on the nose, while it’s lightly sweet
on the palate, showing a faint rosewater note and
pink peppercorn finish. Sip or mix into cocktails.
Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $18/1 L
89
Soyombo Super Premium Mongolian Vodka
(Mongolia; MHW, Manhasset, NY). Look
for sweet marshmallow in the otherwise neutral
aroma and flavor, plus a faint charcoal note on the
palate. The finish is crisp, with fiery hints of anise
and black pepper. According to the backstory, this
vodka is distilled on the site of the last Mongolian
Emperor’s palace.
abv: 40%
Price: $30
90
89
90
88
American Harvest (USA; American Harvest
Distilling, Rigby, ID). This organic vodka,
made from winter wheat, veers into gin-like or flavored vodka territory, though the producer insists
it is not a flavored vodka. Though it’s neutral on the
nose, the flavor is relatively bold, suggesting melon,
almond and vanilla. Best Buy.
abv: 40%
Price: $24/1 L
Slovenia Vodka (Slovenia; MHW, Manhasset, NY). This spirit was created by Chef
Peter X. Kelly and his team to be “the culinary
Van Gogh Blue Vodka (Holland; Van Gogh Imports, Orlando, FL). Clean and crisp, a gentle
breeze of citrus and pine seems to blow through this
vodka. The dry finish is flecked with white pepper
heat. It was made with a “triple wheat blend” of
vodkas made from wheat grown in France, Germany
and New Zealand.
abv: 40%
Price: $29
Absolut Vodka (Sweden; Pernod Ricard, New
York, NY). Distilled from Swedish winter
wheat, this vodka shows a faint earthiness in the
scent and fleeting notes of chalk, white pepper and
lemon peel on the palate.
abv: 40%
Price: $20
88
CH Vodka (USA; CH Distillery, Chicago, IL).
Made from Illinois wheat and rye, this
vodka is light and neutral, with a fleeting banana
note and a flicker of black pepper heat. It finishes
crisp, though it delivers a wallop of persistent, lipnumbing alcohol heat.
abv: 40%
Price: $35
88
Wheatley Vodka (USA; Buffalo Trace Distillery, Frankfort, KY). From Bourbon-maker
Buffalo Trace, this small-batch vodka is remarkably
soft, with subtle undertones of vanilla and cinnamon on the warming finish.
abv: 41%
Price: $18
87
Black Button Wheat Vodka (USA; Black Button Distilling, Rochester, NY). Made from local wheat grown on a family farm, this “grain-toglass” vodka is on the sweet side, offering hints of
banana and an elongated vanilla finish with a clovelike spark.
abv: 42%
Price: $35
86
Catskill Mountain Whole Wheat Peace Vodka (USA; Catskill Distilling Company, White
Lake, NY). This robust vodka is made from New York
red winter wheat in copper pot stills. The aroma is
distinctly funky, while the palate shows subtle banana and coconut tones that linger into the finish.
abv: 40%
Price: $28
WINEMAG.COM | 87
BUYINGGUIDE
BEER
with time; hold this beauty until 2016. Cellar Selection.
abv: 10.7%
Price: $11/22 oz
93
Warming up to barley wine
T
hough the name may be deceiving, barley
but balanced by the intense flavor profile.
wine (or barleywine) is in fact a kind of
Given the strength of their components and
beer, not wine. Considered by many to be
high alcohol, most barley wines make excellent
one of the finest and most cellar-worthy
candidates for cellaring. They develop much like
styles of beer produced, these brews are not for
wine—the assertive flavors mellow and harmothe faint of heart, nor are they for those looking
nize while simultaneously developing subtle
for a subtle or more nuanced drinking experinuances of age in the form of nuttiness, rancio
ence. With names like Cockeyed
or Sherried notes. Many comCooper, Bigfoot and Old Guardpanies include a vintage date on
Given the strength these selections to assist conian, consumers can expect that
the beer they have acquired is of their components sumers in keeping track of aggoing to be some seriously ining. However, many brewers
and high alcohol,
tense and flavorful stuff.
also feel that the beers are best
most barley wines consumed upon release or relAs one of the strongest beer
styles—alcohol range anywhere make excellent can- atively young to maintain the
from 7–15% abv—there’s no didates for cellaring. dominant hop aromatics. Quite
shortage of heft here. Lively,
simply, it all comes down to
fruity and always quite alcoholpersonal preference.
ic, where they vary is in their sometimes sweet
Because of their intensity, barley wines are
but sometimes bitter tendencies. The hops are
traditionally a seasonal release perfect for the
a key component, especially in American offercold months. More of a sipping beer, they’re
ings, and can range from a sweet, fruit-domiperfect for warming the soul on a chilly winnant presence to a dominating resiny, citrus oil
ter’s night. So buy up your favorites now and
character. The body is typically thick and conget ready to toast to old man winter.
centrated, with the alcohol definitely noticeable
Prost!
—Lauren Buzzeo
96
Sierra Nevada Bigfoot Barleywine Style Ale
(American barley wine; Sierra Nevada Brewing Co., CA). Like its namesake, this is a behemoth of
a beer, but it’s balanced and appropriately intense
for the style. Bold, assertive scents of citrusy and
piny hops lead the bouquet, supported by notes of
roasted grain, caramel malt, toasted brown bread
and cocoa nib. The palate showcases the rich,
malty core at first sip, but soon after transitions
into hop-fueled flavors of sticky citrus oil and pine
resin that carry on long into the finish. The texture
is smooth and full, with ample carbonation to keep
the mouthfeel from feeling too heavy or flat. While
it’s certainly enjoyable now, it’s also an extremely
cellar-worthy selection, as it will mature beautifully
for many years to come. Cellar Selection.
abv: 9.6%
Price: $13/12 oz 4 pack
95
Uinta Cockeyed Cooper Bourbon Barrel Barley
Wine Ale (American barley wine; Uinta Brewing Co., UT). This barrel-aged beauty is an intense
yet balanced brew that will improve with age. The
bold Bourbon-barrel notes of vanilla bean, charred
oak, baking spice and sweet oak partner seamlessly
with tnotes of caramel malt, roasted peanut shell
and dried dark fruits like plum, fig and cherry. The
alcohol is high, and the mouthfeel is round and robust, but it’s not overly warm or biting. Spicy orange rind and toasted wood flavors linger on the
finish. Thanks to the bottle size, this is best enjoyed
with family and friends when you do pop the cork,
which shouldn’t be until 2016. Cellar Selection.
abv: 11.1%
Price: $13/750 ml
93
Alaskan Pilot Series Barley Wine Ale 2013
(American barley wine; Alaskan Brewing Co.,
AK). A full-bodied and flavorful selection, this is a
vintage-dated beer that’s an ideal candidate for cellaring. The rich, grainy core is loaded with sweet
notes of caramel malt, toffee, Honeycomb cereal and
molasses, but it’s balanced by assertive, resiny hop
bitterness and a lingering astringency on the finish.
Potent and smooth, with a creamy, mouthfilling texture, the intense profile will mellow and harmonize
Smuttynose Big Beer Series Barleywine Style
Ale (American barley wine; Smuttynose
Brewing Co., NH). This attractive and expressive
beer pours a deep copper-amber color, with a solid
off-white head that leaves pretty lacing behind with
each sip. The bouquet immediately offers intense
aromas of citrusy whole hop, sweet malt, fresh grain
and underripe stone fruit. The fruity tones continue
through to the medium-weight palate, with solid
flavors of nectarine and peach that are framed by
bitter grapefruit pith astringency and a slightly
sticky texture. The finish is long, with an appropriate lingering bitterness.
abv: 10.6%
Price: $9/22 oz
92
Stone Old Guardian Barley Wine Style Ale
2014 Release (American barley wine; Stone
Brewing Co., CA). This annual release is always a
stunner from Stone, best known for its affinity to
produce beers that showcase a strong hop presence,
so it’s not surprising that the brewery would excel
in this style category. Immediately attractive, the
mahogany-amber colored beer offers aromas of banana bread, turbinado sugar, caramel malt, toffee,
molasses and dried dark fruit that are all married
to a core of citrusy hops. The mouthfeel is smooth
and satisfying, with a rich orange-oil flavor that
coats the palate and lingers long on the finish, ending moderately bitter and pithy. Enjoyable now, but
should hold well through 2016, at least. Cellar Selection.
abv: 11.6%
Price: $4/22 oz
90
Uinta Anniversary Barley Wine Ale (American barley wine; Uinta Brewing Co., UT). This
rich mahogany-colored brew opens with decadent
scents of toffee, caramel malt, molasses, candied orange peel, prune and dried fig. Those notes continue
through to the robust and smooth palate, resulting
in flavors like sticky toffee pudding and fruit cake
that play nicely with hoppy notes of citrus peel and
pine needles. The carbonation is low, contributing to the full mouthfeel, while the finish is richly
spiced and slightly warm.
abv: 10.4%
Price: $11/12 oz 4 pack
87
21st Amendment Lower De Boom Barleywine
Style Ale (American barley wine; 21st Amendment Brewery, CA). This beer pours a hazy orangebrown color and opens with scents of sweet pineapple, caramel, brown sugar and candied orange
peel. The mouthfeel is decadent and round, with
low carbonation and dense, chewy flavors of sugar
plum, caramel sauce and brioche French toast that
flood the palate. Moderate astringency lifts the richness on the finish, ending on a resinous pine note.
abv: 11.5% Price: $12/8.4 oz 4 pack
WHEAT WINE
91
Smuttynose Big Beer Series Wheat Wine Ale
(Wheatwine; Smuttynose Brewing Co., NH).
Smutty’s wheat wine offers a bit more nuance and
restraint than its barley wine, starting with a floral and almost ethereal bouquet of orange blossom,
honeysuckle, apricot and fresh citrusy hops. The robust yet lively palate offers flavors of wheat, caramel
apple, orange peel and firm stone fruit, all intense
yet harmonious and balanced. A medium pine-hop
bitterness remains on the finish, and the alcohol
warmth only shows when the beer warms.
abv: 10.8%
Price: $9/22 oz
WINEMAG.COM | 89

91Ponzi 2012 Pinot Noir - Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Transcription

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