Disassembly and replacement of the Pinzgauer Parking Brake and

Transcription

Pinzgauer Parking Brake and Locker Box Repair
Disassembly and replacement of the
Pinzgauer Parking Brake and Locker Box
Bearing and Seal
Credits:
Before beginning this document I need to thank the people who helped me
through this repair. Jim Laguardia provided both email and phone help as well
as took pictures of his own more extensive rebuild and repair; Juergen
Schoepf who's technical web site holds a wealth of information; Jim “Ack”
Cambron who has a wonderful web blog describing the rebuild of his front
witches hat; last but certainly not least, Dennis Williams of Linden Engineering
for his phone help and speedy delivery of necessary parts.
Introduction:
The parking brake of the Pinzgauer may bind and heat up. This binding causes
both damage and premature wear to the brake disks. This heat will also cause
the bearing seal in the rear locker box, which is also known as the axle journal
neck or witches hat, to fail prematurely. This is a photographic guide
illustrating what I did to repair this problem. I make no claims as to its
accuracy due to the ferocity of our legal system and its ability to punish
good Samaritans. Use this information at your own risk.
Preparation:
To begin, place wheel chocks to prevent the vehicle from rolling. Attempt to
clean as much dirt as possible from the rear differential and body area.
If the rear seal has failed in the locker box there may be oil in the parking
brake housing. There also may be oil in the housing if the locker box O-rings
for the hydraulic locker assembly is leaking. In either case it is wise to have a
way to catch any oil which may drain from the parking brake assembly. I also
recommend placing painters plastic under the vehicle and have a bag of kitty
litter ready. I had all this in place before proceeding and did not spill any oil
on to the ground and quite a bit had leaked into the assembly.
Parking Brake Removal:
Release the parking brake handle if engaged. Remove the clip attaching the
cable to the lever arm at the rear driver's side of the vehicle by removing the
spring clip. Be careful to note which direction the cable will spin as it is
wound up to provide for the brake release you notice in the handle. It should
spin in a clockwise direction when examining from the back of the vehicle as it
Copyright 2004: Russell McIntire
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is removed from the lever arm. Remove the spring which pulls the lever arm
toward the rear of the vehicle from the lever arm side. Allow this to hang
down.
On the rear passenger side of the vehicle, remove the clip which holds the
lever arm in place. Remove the washer on top of the lever arm as well.
Remove pin which connects the other end of the lever to the parking brake
assembly. This is done by removing its spring clip. Lift the lever arm off the
vehicle.
To remove the parking brake assembly housing it is necessary to allow the
body of the vehicle to raise away from the tubular drive train. The body bolts
must be loosened on the differential cross member and the rear bolt in the
tail cone removed.
First remove the tail cone bolt. Use a 24 mm socket on an extension to access
the bolt. The nut can be reached with a 24 mm open end or adjustable
wrench above the tail cone.
Place a jack under the rear body out of the way of the work area to provide
some support for the rear of the vehicle as the next step is to loosen the bolts
holding the differential cross member to the body.
For each side loosen the cross member bolts which are also 24 mm
approximately 5 turns. This will allow the tail cone to clear the rear of the
vehicle when it is removed.
Remove the five 19 mm cap nuts which hold the tail cone to the parking brake
housing. Be careful not to lose the washers as you remove them. You will
need a 19 mm closed wrench to reach the top cap nut. When loosening these
cap nuts be ready to catch oil which may drain from the parking brake
assembly. Also take precautions for breathing apparatus as the original brake
pads are made of asbestos. If they are covered in oil, this isn't a problem.
Be careful with the rear tail cone to insure it does not fall on you as you
remove it. There is a bushing which the body bolt in the tail cone goes
through. You may need to tape it up as you remove the cone to keep it out of
the way or have an extra set of hands. If it does not clear the body unscrew
the two 24 mm body screws a bit more.
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Here is a picture of what you should see when the tail cone is removed. This
picture is of the reinstallation, yours will not have the new disk brake pads
and red sealer yet.
At this point you can slide off the rear parking disk followed by the parking
brake housing and attached steel plates. Remove the inner disk pad as well.
Here is a picture of the removed parking brake assembly without the disks.
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This is a picture of the rear of the vehicle with the parking brake removed. It
is good to note that you may drive the vehicle in this condition if required as
long as you retighten the two crossbar body bolts.
Note the brake cable and spring hanging on the drivers side of the vehicle. If
you must drive the vehicle simply attach the spring to the brake cable.
Remember the parking brake light will be illuminated as the switch is not
being depressed by the brake lever in this configuration.
If you are lucky enough to just be replacing the parking brake pads and not
the rear seal of the locker box then you may skip to the section covering
parking brake reassembly.
Rear Locker Box Cover Removal:
The rear locker box has an external protective and structural housing which
attaches to the rear differential housing with four very long threaded rods and
four hex bolts. Be sure to have the rear body of the vehicle supported before
proceeding as removing this housing reduces the structural integrity of the
drive train. Again, make sure that you have something to catch any oil which
may drain from the cover housing, especially if you know the rear locker box
seal has failed.
Remove the locker switch cover plate on the passenger side of the locker box
cover. It is attached with two 13 mm hex bolts. Disconnect the wires from
switch inside. You may have gear oil drain from this cover plate. This just
means that it was a good idea for you to perform this operation on your
vehicle! Carefully remove the switch with a 27 mm deep well socket. Put
these parts aside.
Remove the locker actuator from the locker box cover. It is not necessary to
disconnect the hydraulic line, just be careful not to bend them. The locker
actuator is attached with two 13 mm hex bolts. Carefully pull the assembly
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out of the cover. If possible leave the rubber boot on the actuator until
reassembly when you should clean it. Leaving it on will protect the
mechanism more.
Remove the spring and pin assembly from the locker actuator. Put these parts
aside.
Now you can remove the locker box cover. Begin by removing the four hex
bolts which are 19 mm. Then remove the four 19 mm cap nuts for the long
rods. The long rods should stay in place, do not remove them from the
assembly as they tie the differential, transfer case and front tube together.
With the cover removed place a group of washers onto one of the long rods
and put back a cap nut. Just tighten it enough to hold it in place. You can
see this in the pictures below.
This picture is from the passenger side of locker box with the cover removed.
This is a picture of the locker box from the driver's side.
Notice the four Phillips screws which are holding the seal in?
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This is a large picture of the removed locker box cover and attaching parts
including the locker switch and pins.
As you can see, I had quite a bit of oil which had leaked into the cover AND
the parking brake housing.
Rear locker box removal:
The locker boxes are attached by 6 mm Alan screws. Since you will need to
torque them later, invest in a 6 mm socket or borrow one from a neighbor.
MAKE SURE TO DRAIN THE DIFFERENTIAL BEFORE PROCEEDING!!!
Fortunately I had drained the differential but it is an easy thing to forget.
When drained you may proceed to remove the six 6 mm Alan bolts which hold
the locker box in place. After removing the bolts, tap the end lightly with a
rubber mallet on both sides to help loosen it. Pull it off making sure not to
drop it on the concrete! Fortunately it is fairly light as it is made of aluminum
as opposed to the cover.
Now you can replace the seal and bearing in the comfort of a table in the
garage.
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Here is a picture of the rear of the vehicle with the locker box removed.
You may need to remove the O-ring from the differential before reassembly.
Here is a picture of the locker box internals before disassembly.
Locker box disassembly:
For disassembly you will need a ring clip removal tool. You will need to be
able to boil a pot of water of adequate size to heat the gear shaft. You will
also need an impact driver that can take a phillips head. Lastly you will need
a gear puller. If this is something you do not believe you can perform it may
be possible to have it rebuilt elsewhere. At the time of this writing Linden
Engineering offered this service. They can be contacted at:
http://www.lindenengineering.com
I rebuilt mine myself but I highly suggest that you obtain the Pinzgauer repair
manual and exploded parts diagram book. I suggest you read online as many
examples as you can before proceeding. I also suggest you take pictures as
you disassemble to make sure your reassembly is correct.
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I wish I had taken more pictures of this disassembly as they do help. With all
that said, begin disassembly by removing the side plate with two phillips head
screws. Because there is a spring behind it be careful not to let it fly apart.
Pull out the spring.
Next remove the clip which holds the selector fork. Pull out the selector fork
spindle. As Jim “Ack” Cambron notes on his web site, the selector fork and all
its parts are now loose and will fall out. Don't lose any parts.
With the selector fork removed you can remove the spring loaded shifter bolt
which actuates the fork. Be careful not to lose the internal pin. I kept these
parts assembled during this work until reassembly of the locker box.
Once these parts are removed it is now possible to remove the brake shaft.
This next procedure has RISK. The four phillips head screws are secured
with Loctite (TM). Because of this you may wish to heat the entire assembly
in boiling water to soften the Loctite. Also, Jim Laguardia indicated that it is
not necessary to remove them at all. I chose to remove the four screws as it
made removing the bearing seal easier in the end for me. I did this by putting
a phillips bit into my impact wrench and very gently under low pressure
loosened them. I successfully removed the screws without heating the
assembly. You could snap the screws off in which case you will have
something else to repair. Can't help you there...
Once the seal cover is removed, tap the shaft from the inside with a rubber
mallet to unseat the bearing from the locker box. With the shaft floating free
you can now access the ring clip inside the locker box. Set your ring clip tool
to squeeze and remove it. Now the brake shaft can be removed from the
locker box.
Here is a picture of the disassembled locker box at this point.
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Set your ring clip pliers to expand. Remove the ring clip on the shaft below
the inside gear opposite the seal. Heat this end of the shaft in boiling water
to soften the Loctite. Once this is heated, remove this sleeved gear with the
gear puller. It is now possible to remove the bearing and seal. To do this I
simply placed the brake gear end of the shaft between two 2x4s and tapped
the splined shaft end with a rubber mallet until the bearing came free. You
may wish to take this assembly to a shop to have it all removed. Mine came
free relatively easily.
To remove the seal I took a 2x2 and set it on the seal. I placed the cover
plate on a 2x4 which I had drilled out with a Forstner bit to make room for the
seal and support the cover plate. I then tapped out the seal. This also may
be something you would like to take to a shop. Here is a picture of the seal
before removal. Make sure you know which way it goes back in.
Here is a final picture of all the locker box fully disassembled.
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At this point it is a good idea to clean everything. Make sure the locker box
internal oil tubes are clear. I cleaned all the areas where the plates would be
reassembled with Goof-off. It is a xylene based solvent. Don't let this get
near any of the new rubber seals and O-rings. It does completely evaporate
and it makes cleaning the old sealer off the flat surfaces a breeze. Just used
a paper towel and they were shiny.
Insert the new seal. Make sure you reinsert it from the OUTSIDE of the plate.
Those recesses around the inside lip are for oil to lubricate this area. If the
seal is too far to the inside it will block this flow and just not be installed
right! I pressed mine back in by placing the plate and seal between two
blocks of wood and pressing it together with my vice. It set it nicely into
place at the same point as the original. Place the seal and plate back onto
the shaft. You can have this done at a shop if you wish.
Next install the bearing back onto the shaft. To do this either take it to a
shop or make a little jig like I did. Here is a picture of what I used to seat the
bearing on the shaft.
This was made with a Forstner bit which was slightly larger than the splined
end of the shaft. The two legs are still connected at the bottom so they could
not move. Make sure to remove all the sawdust from the wood and wrap it
with plastic so no sawdust gets into the bearing when tapping it on with a
rubber mallet. Note the gloves, they keep your hands clean when getting all
the oil off of the brake parts.
With the bearing installed attach the ring clip back to the shaft. Reinstall the
locker box ring clip. Put the shaft back into the locker box and seat the
bearing. I applied wheel grease to the seal and shaft to make sure there was
adequate lubrication after reassembly.
To attach the seal plate I applied Permatex anerobic gasket maker from NAPA
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to the surfaces and the heads of the recessed phillips screws. I also applied
Loctite 242 to the screws and tightened by hand.
With this assembled I turned the locker box brake gear down. I applied
Loctite 242 to the inside of the splined gear and tapped it back onto the shaft
until it seated on the ring clip already installed.
Reassemble the locker box in reverse order replacing the O-ring for the locker
actuator. I cleaned the shifter plate on the side with Goof-off and sealed with
the Permatex anerobic sealer the same way I did the seal cover plate. Apply
sealer to the phillips screw heads too. Loctite 242 the screws.
Make sure there are no left over parts!
Turn the locker box brake gear side down and secure it that way so it doesn't
fall over. Pour an “Egg Shell” full of gear oil into the locker box.
(Terminology, courtesy Dennis Williams of Linden Engineering.) This will make
sure the bearing is lubricated as Dennis indicated it takes as much as 10 miles
of driving for the differential to pump oil to that bearing. Turn the shaft a
few times and let the oil sink in by taking a break. Enjoy it, the toughest
parts are now behind you.
Locker Box Reattachment:
With the locker box rebuilt and sealed it is time to reattach it to the
differential. After cleaning the differential mating surface the same way I
cleaned the locker box surfaces I placed the NEW large O-ring on the locker
box. I applied the Permatex anerobic sealer to the locker box and then set it
all back in place. I applied the Loctite 242 to the six, 6 mm alan bolts and
torqued them to 22 Nm.
Locker Box Cover Reattachment:
Remove the single cap nut and spacing washers. With clean surfaces on the
differential and cover, apply sealer. Screw the four 19 mm hex screws in to
hold the cover in place. Make sure the 4 rods protrude and reattach the cap
nuts. Torque cap nuts and hex screws to 85 Nm. Reattach the switch and
cover plate sealing it, tighten the 13 mm bolts. Re insert the spring and
locker actuator pin then seal the locker actuator plate and tighten the 13 mm
bolts.
Parking Brake Repair/Reassembly:
My parking brake had completely failed. Parts of the pad were missing and
there was a lot of oil on every part. The parking brake mechanism was
completely disassembled and cleaned. No special tools. Use gloves.
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Here are some pictures of the brake disassembly and various components.
Here is a picture of the ground up spring which is visible in the earlier picture
too.
I replaced the two springs in the parking brake. I don't believe this is a normal
problem to have. It is necessary to completely clean all the oil from the
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parking brake assembly. Do NOT lubricate the four steel balls used between
the steel plates. Make sure the plates operate after reassembly.
After a complete reassembly of my parking brake it was still rubbing and
generating heat. I disassembled the parking brake assembly again and
examined the components. I found that both disk pads were evenly rubbing
on both sides around the outside edge only. I eased the corners of both pads
on a grinder removing just a bit of brake material. I then reassembled. This
reassembly is shown in the first picture in this document.
Apply sealer to the parking brake housing. Insert the bushing from the rear
most body support back into the body. Slide the tail cone onto the parking
brake assembly holding the bushing up into place. Screw the five cap nuts
back onto the tail cone rods. Tighten them to 85 Nm.
Screw down the two crossbar body bolts. This will line up the rear most bolt
hole with the bushing. With a normal 24 mm socket and extension push the
bolt up through and hand start the retaining nut. Torque the three body bolts
to 130 Nm.
Reassemble the parking brake cables and levers in reverse order. Remember
to twist the parking brake cable counter clockwise a few turns when
reassembling to give the brake handle that twist lock action. Adjust the
parking brake to allow 4 to 6 inches of travel as identified in the manual
using the parking brake nut. Whatever you do, DON'T over tighten. Drive your
vehicle a bit and touch the parking brake assembly and make sure it is NOT
HOT. It should be the same temperature as the differential. Do this for the
next week or so of driving. Here is a link to help with those torque
conversions:
http://hemsidor.torget.se/users/b/bohjohan/convert/conv_e.htm
Here is one final picture of my running 1974 Pinzgauer 710K playing in the
Ocala National Forest.
Page 13

Disassembly and replacement of the Pinzgauer Parking Brake and

Transcription

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