Dunnerdale Guide

Dunnerdale
Bouldering
By Greg Chapman
Approach & Aspect
The Duddon Valley is one the most beautiful and
unspoiled corners of Lakeland, perhaps due in no
small part to a (thankful) lack of tourist amenities,
easy access and a lake! From a rock climbing
perspective, despite being laden with a multitude of
lesser known, yet glorious, single-pitch crags, all
with fantastic and varied locations, many climbers
see the valley, in Stonestar and Wallowbarrow, as
something of a two crag destination. For this reason,
even the most stalwart trad climber often seems to
purvey the area as a less frequented backwater
retreat, and as for bouldering; well the Duddon is so
far off the radar it may as well be on Mars.
Approach
Access Wrynose Pass
from the east and
follow this famous
mountain road west
into the upper Duddon
Valley. Continue along
the base of the valley to
Cockley Beck, and take
the left fork of the road,
driving for a further 2.5
km (1.6 miles) to Birks
Bridge car park (on the
right), park here - for
free!
In fact, there have been previous minor forays made
in the development of Duddon boulderng, with the
small, spread out circuit in the vicinity of Seathwaite
Tarn an example of this. However, until recently this
small collection of esoteric problems was as good as
got when it came to bouldering in the swale of
Duddon.
At long last, the development of the bouldering
circuit described here, means this picturesque
coulee is now a viable option for the boulderer
seeking more than esoteric day out combing the
hillside for far-flung gems.
The Dunnderdale Circuit is a collection of around
20 blocks and walls situated either side of the large
bridleway, which leaves Birk Bridge car park at the
northern end of the valley and contours (in
meandering fashion) up the southeast flanks of
Harter Fell. There are three distinct sectors (all easily
accessed from the track), with the first blocks
starting a mere 300m from the parking and the
furthest block being around 2.5km from the car
park… although it is one of the best!
Image below: Andy Hebson is the original
Frontiersman 6c/V4, on the Brandy Stone.
Overview Map
Harter Fell
Dunnerdale
Circuit
(653m)
A
P
Buckstone
N
Alternatively, the valley
(and thus the bouldering area) can be reached via
the Cumbrian coastal perimeter road (A595), via a
right turn (Smithy Lane) just before Duddon Bridge,
and approximately 0.8 km (0.5 mile) past the small
town of Broughton in Furness.
Birks
Research
Station
250m
Brandy Crag
From the parking: continue on foot across the bridge
and on up the large bridleway to reach the
various sectors - see individual sector descriptions
and ‘Overview Map’ for more detail. PLEASE DO
NOT DRIVE UP THE BRIDLEWAY.
C
Aspect
As all the sectors face southeast they get plenty of
sun and ventilation, and with the exception of a
couple of blocks none of the climbing is effected by
tree cover. The exposed nature of the area does
mean it can prove cold during blustery weather;
however this also means the rock dries extremely
quickly after rain.
B
To
Ulpha
Grassguards
The standout boulders are the Buckstone, Cool Logic
Block, Brandy Stone and Laser Quest Block, all of
which offer some really fine climbing.
Grade Spread (Font Grade)
3-5+
6a-6b+
6c-7a
7a+-7b
7b+-7c
7c+-8a
8a
23
15
14
07
03
01
00
Coloured diamonds are shown before each problem
to give an idea of difficulty at a glance:
Font3 to 4+ - V0
 Font5 to 6c+ - V1 to V5
Font7a to 7c+ - V6 to V10
Font8a to 8c - V11 to V15
Project
1
2
River Duddon
Introduction
To
Cockley
Beck
Dunnerdale Circuit - Sector A (Dark Nations)
Dunnerdale Circuit - Sector A
This first sector is a pleasant little round offering some excellent individual problems and a good overall circuit.
Whilst it doesn’t contain the most impressive/hardcore blocks at the venue, it is well worth a visit, especially for
those operating around 6c+/V5. All the boulders, bar Block 4, have good landings and offer clean, solid rock in
a very scenic setting. The blocks are in close proximity to one another, although watch where you walk as you
move between blocks, the ground is quite uneven in places. The classic ticks of the circuit are: The Grinder,
Dark Nations, Black Hart and Myths & Legends.
Boulder 4
2
The boulders are situated on the deforested hillside above the main bridleway around 300m from the car park.
Sector A
3
1
Boulder 3
Boulder 5
Boulder 6
Boulder 3
A neat little block next to a beck - which has been
platformed out to prevent wet pad syndrome.
Boulder 4
Boulder 3
1) Dark Nations (6c+/V5) SDS Climb the steep
arête direct without the foot ramp. Using the foot
ramp climbs less well and is a little easier. *
Boulders 1&2
2) Monster Munch (6a+/V3) SDS Start at the
base of the arête and reach left onto the face to
finish up its centre.
3) Vajazzle (4+/V0) SDS From a slot climb the
‘fat’ curving prow to the top of the arête.
Boulder 2
4) (6b/V3) SDS Start at the base of p3, then
move left across the short roof to finish up p1.
1
Boulder 4
At the heart of the jumbled collection of jagged
blocks is a superb prow...
1) Black Hart (6c+/V5) SDS Climb the prow
direct following the natural line rightward to its
highest point. A spotter is useful on the final moves.
Would be worth three stars if not for the landing! *
Boulder 6
Boulder 5
1
2
1
3
2
Boulder 2
Boulder 1
Boulder 1
1) The Grinder (6c/V4) SDS A great problem
up the centre of the steep east face of the tilted block
nearest the track. The blocks to the left are out of
bounds. *
2) (3+/V0) SDS The right arête.
1
1) (4+/V0) SDS The short blunt arête.
2
2) Vegemite (6c+/V5) SDS The central wall via
a hard move off undercuts/side pulls to get
established.
Boulder 5
A well set, scoop fronted block, offering great rock.
3) (5/V1) SDS From a big tilted sloping hold
climb direct and up the slabby finish.
1) Myths & Legends (6c/V4) SDS Use a tilted
sloper to gain the arête and continue direct. *
P) (?) SDS Unclimbed - on the back of Boulder
2 is a good looking rising arête problem. This has
not been climbed but would need some cleaning.
2) Osmium (7a+/V7) SDS From the centre of
the face make an awkward move off the ground
(crux) to get established in the scoop, finish direct.
3
4
P
Boulder 5
A vast rocky fortress of gigantic blocks embraces a
smooth if slightly mucky wall with a good landing,
and maybe the odd other problem.
P) (?) SDS Unclimbed - crimpy wall.
Dunnerdale Circuit - Sector A.1 (Buckstone)
Dunnerdale Circuit - Sector B
The Buckstone is a large block situated a short distance up the bridleway from Sector A, hosting one classic and
a couple of other less distinguished climbs. This prominent boulder, which can be seen from as far away as the
opposite side of the valley, draws you in from the moment you lay eyes on it, nestling on the hillside at eastern
edge of a small larch coppice.
Pine Stones
Approach: From the bridleway directly below Sector A, continue up the hill for approximately 200m, to where
a rough track, to the right, leads off up the hillside. Follow this right spur for around 80m until level with the
Buckstone, and then take a direct line across the hillside to the boulder. See ‘Overview Map’ for further info.
2) Deerstalker (6a+/V3) SDS Climb the open
undercut groove on its right side, using the blocks
for feet. The stand up is 5/V1. *
Buckstone
1) Best Western (6a/V2) SDS The column starts
centrally but veers right near the top. Good.
3) Force of Evil (7b/V8) SDS Surmount the line
immediately right of the open groove direct via
some cool holds, and without the use of any of the
foot blocks. The stand up is 5+/V1. *
Buckstone
1) Way Out West (7b/V8) SDS Climb the
steep, burly prow using holds on either side to
a good hold in the niche, where easier
climbing gives access to the top. **
3
2
1
There is a couple of obvious dirty lines right of
problem 3, however these have been intentionally
left unclimbed due to the large precariously
attached flake which the climbs centre on.
2) Blueshift (6b+/V4) SDS From good
holds low on the rising lip, follow the lip to
the niche and up.
Other Possibilities
There are a number of smaller mossy blocks just
down from the Pines Stones which may offer a short
problem or two after some serious brushing. Also of
note (and perhaps more of a prospect) is a small
wall in the trees down to the left, which looks to
offer some nice easier problems on good rock.
3) Old Piney (4/V0) SDS The neat little
undercut arête climbed direct.
Other Possibilities
There are a number of other blocks and in
particular a prominent wall on the hillside
above the Buckstone. These have not been
climbed on and look to offer the odd quality
problem for the super keen...
Image right: Enjoying the delightful slopes of the
Pine Stones classic, Force of Evil (7b/V8).
Pine Stones
Dunnerdale Circuit - Sector B (Cool Logic)
Similarly to Sector A, this next sector is split in two;
with the majority of climbs centring on, or being in
close proximity to, the excellent Cool Logic Block.
Whilst another peripheral boulder, containing a few
nice lines and one hard classic, sits on the outskirts.
Approach: From the beneath the Buckstone,
continue up hill along the bridleway, without
deviation, for just over 1km. As you leave the upper
edge of a forested area, coming back out onto the
open fellside, Sector B is located on the grassy slope
down to the left.
Sector B - Access
2
1
Pine Stones: The Pines Stones are a pair of fine
blocks, featuring some lovely well weathered holds.
To reach them, drop down the hill (15m) from the
main bridleway immediately after a large fallen
larch tree - see image right.
Cool Logic Block & Surrounding Boulders: The main
event here is the Cool Logic Block, which offers a
number of tricky problems and superb crack climb.
To get to it break off left from the bridleway 30m
past the fallen larch, and drop down the hill over
numerous tree stumps. Soon the uninspiring rear of
the block comes into view, make a beeline for it.
1
Sector B - Access Points
1: Pine Stones
2: Cool Logic Block and surrounding boulders.
5
6
2
3
Dunnerdale Circuit - Sector B
Dunnerdale Circuit - Sector B
Once buried in the depths of a dense pine forest, this unusual semi
orbed block initially took some extensive cleaning, but once fully
scoured bore a collection of great problems on a compact yet rather
unfamiliar rock.
Cool Logic - RH
The landings are all good and the problems themselves are now clean
and well bedded in. Go to it…
P
Cool Logic - LH
5
8
7
4
6
1
2
Punky Brewster & Census Boulders
3
Two smaller blocks on the hillside directly below (visible)
the Cool Logic Block. These boulders offer some great
shorter sit start problems, again on good rock. Punky
Brewster in particular is worth seeking out.
Cool Logic - LH Side
Cool Logic - RH Side (topo on next page)
1) Voyeur (7a+/V7) SDS Climb the line
immediately left of the gapping crack, starting with
your right foot in the crack.
6) Saw Boss (7c/V9) SDS Starting in roughly
the centre of the face use a crimpy side pull (RH),
tiny notch (LH) and poor footholds to pull on. Now
veer slightly right and use small edges to make a
hard move for good holds a two thirds height. Finish
direct with relative ease. Image on next page. *
2) Chasm (6a/V2) SDS The gapping crack
climbed on its right side.
3) Cool Logic (7a/V6) SDS The thin diagonal
crack is climbed to its termination, at which point
take a direct line to the top of the block and some
monumental finishing jugs! **
3a) (7a+/V7) SDS Start at the base of p2, pull
on and make a hard traverse right into the base of
Cool Logic and finish as per this.
4) Cool Reach (6c+/V5) SDS Start up the thin
crack but on reaching the first good holds rock left
into the gapping crack and up.
5) Cool Offspring (6c+/V5) SDS Again, start up
the thin crack but at half height dyno/slap direct to
the top left side of the block. *
Punky Brewster
1
2
P) (?) SDS Unclimbed - start as per p6 but veer
left to meet the top of the crack and finish direct.
1
3
7) Mint Thin (6b+/V4) SDS Use two small
flat edges to gain a good high hold via a long reach,
and finish direct.
2
3
4
Census Boulder
8) Powder Puff Justice (7b/V8) SDS Start in the
dark hollow on the right side of the face and climb
direct veering left near the top. Holds on the juggy
arête out right are considered out of bounds.
Cool Logic - RH Side
Cool Logic - RH Side
1) (5+/V1) SDS Start on low holds and make a
tricky move to big flatty, continue direct to the top
of the block.
1) (4/V0) SDS The undercut arête is a short and
sweet affair. A thuggy start leads to an easy finish.
2) (4+/V0) SDS The vague arête starting as low
as is possible.
Other Possibilities
There is a decent looking wall approximately 80m to
the rear (south) of the Cool Logic Block, which looks
to offer a handful of reasonable climbs above a good
landing. Also, a number of smaller blocks are dotted
about the sector which may bear the odd line.
3) Punky Brewster (6b/V3) SDS From flat holds
on the far right side of the block, traverse the lip
leftward all the way to the SW corner. *
7
8
2) Census (6b/V3) SDS Climb the centre left of
the wall via some small holds and a big move.
3) Blood, Sweat & Wire Brushes (6c/V4) SDS
From a diagonal edge climb the wall above direct. *
4) (4/V0) SDS The right hand arête climbed on
the left is pretty straightforward.
Dunnerdale Circuit - Sector C (The Pyramid)
Block 2
Block 3
The upper sector of the Dunnerdale bouldering circuit contains some of the best climbing on offer, and, in the
Laser Quest Block, arguably the best boulder at the venue.
This sector is split into three sub sectors, with one large area; offering numerous blocks, and two smaller areas;
each essentially centring on one good boulder. The first area reached is The Pyramid, which lies directly below
main buttress of the crag. This area is so named due to the first boulder encountered being something of a
polyhedron in shape. Directly above this are a further four easily visible blocks, each offering some very decent
problems. Between The Pyramid and the Laser Quest Block is another nice boulder (Smiler’s Crack Block) with
two excellent climbs, which are well worth the stop-off. Finally, the pièce de résistance of the entire venue (in
the authors view at least) is reached: the Laser Quest Block is one of those boulders you find from time to time,
and when you do the numerous wild goose chases which came before are all quickly forgotten, as you are
suddenly taken hold by a feeling of excitement which can only be likened to that which embraced you on a
distant Christmas morning, as an awe filled 6 year old!
1
The Pyramid
Laser
Quest
1
Smiler’s
Crack
Block 2
Block 3
1) Lion Bar (6b/V3) SDS Start in the small cave
on reasonable edges. Now climb out of the left side
and on up the centre of the face. The blocks are out.
1) Broken Arête (4+/V0) The high arête
climbed direct. There are other possibilities on this
big boulder, however the rock isn’t great.
Brandy Stone
Brandy Stone
Also to
Laser Quest
Block
Approach - From Sector B
1
2
The Pyramid
The Pyramid
3
4
5
6
7
The first two problems described are not on the
photo-topo, but are easily found on the other side of
the block. The descent is down the NW corner.
1) (3+/V0) The centre right (as faced) of the
west face of the block.
Brandy Stone (Block 4)
Brandy Stone (Block 4)
2) The Pyramid (4+/V0) The high line just
right of the SW corner of the block.
5
3
4
1) Wolverine’s Scar (3+/V0) SDS The short left
slab marked with a triple quartz streak.
3) Anode (5+/V1) SDS The left arête climbed
on the right side is a quality problem. *
2) (4+/V0) SDS The centre right of the slabby
wall makes a pleasant line with a tricky start.
4) Cathode (6b+/V4) SDS Another great
problem climbing the vague right arête keeping
direct all the way. *
3) Brandi (5/V1) SDS The arête on the right.
4) Frontiersman (6c/V4) SDS The neat wall
come slab has an awkward start. *
5) (4+/V0) The slightly grubby arête.
9
10
5) Redox Couple (7a/V6) SDS The excellent
bulge climbed direct and trending left at the top.
Start on a good side pull. No veering off right! **
6) Beckside (6b/V3) SDS From the bottom
corner of the block traverse the lip to and up p7.
7) Zappo (6c/V4) SDS Crimps then straight up.
Block 5
Directly behind Boulder 4 is a large slabby block.
This can be climbed pretty much anywhere at 3/V0.
Dunnerdale Circuit - Sector C (Smiler’s Crack)
Dunnerdale Circuit - Sector C (Laser Quest)
As already stated, the Smiler’s Crack block is a corking little boulder with two great climbs - be sure to drop by
on your way to the Laser Quest Block.
Without eulogising too much more, this really is a great block, and a prime example of the fantastically rough
and solid volcanic rock this part of Lakeland is famed for. The main face offers a 20 degree angle, beautiful
holds, a great view and a near perfect landing, what more could you ask for!?
Approach: From the Brandy Stone, contour west across the hillside sticking near to the base of the crag, for
around 150m, whereupon an obvious triangular block will be seen to your left.
Smiler’s Crack
Approach: The block can be easily seen, and thus reached, in westerly direction from the Smiler’s Crack block.
Alternatively, you can reach it via the main bridleway, from which it can be clearly seen, 150m from the track.
Once level with it, strike a direct path up the fell to the block. See ‘Overview Map’ for further detail.
Smiler’s Crack
Laser Quest
1) Smiler’s Crack (3+/V0) SDS The
almost laser-cut diagonal crack line is a joy
to send and guaranteed to bring a grin to
even the most solemn chops! **
2) Airwolf (6c+/V5) SDS The centre of
the wall climbed direct on small edges with
an extremely tough start. The blocks on the
ground are out. *
6
2
3
1
Image below: Working the fingers hard on a
burn of Laser Quest SDS 7c+/V10.
4
1
5
7
SDS
2
Laser Quest Block
Laser Quest Block
1) Purple Tint (3/V0) SDS The right slanting
edge of the block climbed to the apex. *
5) Futureproof (6c/V4) SDS From a tilted edge
make a big move to a good hold. Now veer
diagonally left and follow the slopey lip to the centre
of the block and better holds. **
2) SHE (6b/V3) SDS Use the ramp-like feature
for your left hand and climb direct to the lip and up.
3) Laser Quest (7c/V9) Start on the left side of
the vague groove and use poor edges and crimps to
pull on. Now throw for the appealing sloper up and
left, just below the lip, and finish direct. ***
3a) Laser Quest SDS (7c+/V10) Start with a
high sloping edge for your RH and a low thin
undercut for your LH. Pull on and link into p3.
Shorties may need to stack a couple of pads to start.
4) Pseudoscience (7b/V8) Start on two edges in
the centre of the vague groove and climb direct via
some highly technical manoeuvring. ***
4a) Pseudoscience SDS (7c/V9) Start as per p3a
but link into p4 instead.
11
12
6) Silver Chloride (6a+/V3) SDS From a tilted
edge make a big move to a good hold, then climb the
wall above direct to the top. *
7) Salt Bridge (6a/V2) SDS Follow the right
edge/arête up and left and link into p6 to finish.
Finishing as per p5 is 6b+/V4. *
8) The Slab (3/V0) Climb the centre of the high
but quality slab on the north end of the block.
Back Block
1) (5/V1) SDS To the rear of the Laser Quest
Block is a small boulder. Start on the right and
traverse the lip leftward to finish up left side of the
block - a half decent warm up.