Travel Guide

A
Travel Guide
Best of Orange County: Laguna Beach Hotels,
Disneyland Tips, and More 2011
Sunset Travel Guide
Catch some R&R in
sunny SoCal
3 | Let’s go surfing now:
Huntington Beach will work its
classic beach town charms on you
5 | Ultimate-Orange:
Swim, surf, sip a Monkey Flip. Here’s
the best of the O.C. coast
10 | Vintage in O.C.:
L.A. gets all the cred, but don’t
discount the O.C. for retro finds
11 | Disney days and knights:
Can a theme park live up to its
legend? Read, and see
14 | O.C. hotels:
Have sweet dreams at our favorite
accommodations
17 | Travel resources
14
10
2 Sunset Travel Guide
cover: Andrea M. Gomez. Clockwise from top: Andrea M. Gomez (3)
3
Sunset Travel Guide
Let’s go surfing
now
Huntington Beach will work its classic beach-town
charms on you
We’d never had the occasion to flip through
the Riptionary before. In fact, we’d never
even heard of the Riptionary—a kind of
Dummies guide to surf lingo—before we
went to Huntington Beach one summer
weekend. Although we shudder in cold
Pacific water, we were intrigued by a culture
where the ocean is god.
Big bonus: the new-ish 157-room Shorebreak Hotel, which stylishly woos visiting
surfers (and non) who want to lounge in the
3 Sunset Travel Guide
courtyard by a firepit or scope out the waves
from their private balcony.
Determined not to be the Riptionary definition of an ass clown*, we first go for our own
Surfing 101. We walk out past the hotel’s surf
lockers, past beach cruisers with palm trees
painted on the rims, and up two blocks to one
of H.B.’s few remaining historic buildings
(McCondoville struck early here, and didn’t let
up)—a building that now houses the Huntington Beach International Surfing Museum.
We and a few Russians are the only ones
wandering the wee space on this sunny
Saturday. The narration from cult classic The
Endless Summer plays in the background.
B&W photographs show the sport’s heroes
through the years, and an exhibit on board
shapers displays the first efforts—9-foot
boards made from solid redwood.
With more surf knowledge, we feel ready
Andrea M. Gomez (2)
Your ticket to ride
below International
Surfing Museum
Sunset Travel Guide
How to worship
the waves
Bone up Consult the Riptionary
(riptionary.com) on basic lingo, and get
a history lesson at the Huntington
Beach International Surfing Museum
($2; 411 Olive Ave.; surfingmuseum.org or
714/960-3483).
Carbo-load It’s lobster tacos with an
ocean view at the new Sandy’s Beach
Grill. $$; 315 PCH, at the base of the pier;
714/374-7273.
Take a lesson The surf butler at
Shorebreak can arrange it. (Or something chill like a kite rental.) Surf conditions are posted near the front desk.
See O.C. hotels, page xx.
to head to the culture’s main altar: the
town’s famously long pier, where the most
consistent waves are ridden.
On our way down the busy main drag, we
note that the ocean is a very informal and
accepting god—its acolytes wear not much
more than expensive sunglasses and short
shorts. One, with a marijuana leaf tattooed on
his ankle, proclaims the day to be “sick.” (See
the Riptionary if you think that’s a bad thing.)
Epiphany on the sand
The ex-surfer with family ties to H.B. meets
us near lifeguard station #2. We’re sitting in
the sand, watching kids slide down mini
“dunes” on bodyboards, when he perks
4 Sunset Travel Guide
up—like he hears a high-pitched noise only a
surfer is attuned to and we’re not.
He turns to us with a smile. “Surf guitar,”
he says.
“Surf guitar?” We vaguely remember
something about this from the museum. But
we don’t have our Riptionary on us. “There’s
a special guitar?”
He leads us across the well-trodden sand
to the source of the sound: a stage fronted by
people on the grass in the warm sun.
A guy with what sure looks like a regular
old electric guitar plucks out a retro beat.
We get it then. The plucking mimics the
rhythm of the ocean. We’ve heard it before
but didn’t feel it until now, with the surfers
*Anyone caught in a lame attempt at being hip
or funny by using a Riptionary entry without
understanding its meaning.
Andrea M. Gomez (3)
The Shorebreak’s welcoming lobbby
above H.B.’s second-favorite sport
left A bike path winds for miles
along the shore
behind us riding the waves. As we look back
toward town across Pacific Coast Highway,
the music opens my eyes to something else:
Huntington Beach didn’t completely flush its
past during the development decades.
Between the new buildings are palm trees, a
few old cottages, and burger shacks.
Throaty-sounding classic cars cruise PCH
alongside F-150 trucks. The music makes us
see only the classics.
Including the black standard poodle who
just then strolls by, with a pink frangipani
behind her ear and an aloha shirt (and her
owner attached on a leash). The Beach Boys’
California is still alive. And it’s sick.
That evening, we have dinner at Shorebreak’s Zimzala restaurant. The Riptionary
defines a “zimzala” as a free-spirited person
who finds peace with the sand between her
toes.
We’re converts. Ocean worshippers. But,
hear us now: No short shorts or pot tattoos.
A surf lesson? In time.
Sunset Travel Guide
The Seal Beach Pier
offers perfect views
of the surfers below
Seal Beach
With its tree-lined Main Street, ice cream
parlors, and curio shops, Seal Beach may be
the last bastion of classic SoCal beach towns.
In this little slip of a community, young families commingle peaceably with surf rats and
sun-bronzed retirees. Unlike some of its
neighbors, Seal Beach is content to keep
things low-key and ungentrified. The 1,865foot old-fashioned pier, once the longest on
the West Coast, is perfect for strolling or fishing. What you’ll find along Main Street, Old
Town Seal Beach’s primary shopping drag, is
an eclectic mix of venerable ma-and-pa establishments with hardly a chain store in sight.
You could easily while away the day at the
beach here, but it would be a shame to miss
downtown. Spend some time dipping into the
various shops, then take in a movie at the
historic Bay Theatre before getting some grub
at one of the many yummy restaurants
nearby—no need to dress up for dinner.
GO The Bay Theatre. The town’s classic movie
theater mixes modern masterpieces with
new releases. 340 Main St.; 562/431-9988.
Seal Beach Historical Society’s Red Car
Museum. Housed in a 1925 tower car used to
Swim, surf, sip a Monkey Flip. Here’s the best of the O.C. coast
The opening song to the former prime-time TV
soap opera The O.C. dusts off the sentiments
behind an old Al Jolson road trip anthem: “On
the stereo / Listen as we go / Nothing’s gonna
stop me now / California here we come / Right
back where we started from.”
If you watched the show, you’d think
that Orange County is a place where a new
BMW, stylish clothes, and a surfboard
(whether you know how to use it or not) are
5 Sunset Travel Guide
make-or-break necessities.
Perhaps. Our list of the absolute best
experiences north to south along the O.C.
coast certainly includes a taste of the area’s
poshness. But there’s more: secluded
beaches, kid-friendly tidepools, even some
fine art. And even a grommet (an inexperienced surfer) on a budget can experience
what one fairly erudite California historian
called “the last American paradise.”
Costa Mesa
With the expanded Orange County Performing Arts Center—including a concert hall
gina sabatella
Ultimate-Orange
maintain overhead electrical wires for Pacific
Electric Railway passenger cars that ran
between Newport Beach and Los Angeles
from the early 1900s to 1950. 12–3 second and
fourth Sat of each month; free; corner of Main St.
and Electric Ave.; 562/683-1874.
Seal Beach Pier. Pretty views of the Pacific and
lazy fishing. $6 parking; at the end of Main St.
EAT Beachwood BBQ. Bring a big appetite to
this joint; the dry-rubbed ribs and pulledpork sandwiches are not for the tinytummied. $$; closed Mon; 131 1/2 Main St.;
562/493-4500.
Nick’s Deli. Popular with Seal Beach’s Gen-Y
contingent, Nick’s has the best burritos in
town. $; 223 Main St.; 562/598-5072.
Walt’s Wharf. Stroll out to the end of the Seal
Beach pier while waiting for your table at
Walt’s Wharf, known for its oak-grilled artichokes, extensive selection of seafood, and
sassy waitresses. $$$$; 201 Main, Seal Beach;
562/598-4433.
SHOP Up Up and Away Kites. The cramped
store sells all manner of things that flutter. A
perfect place to start before heading to the
beach. 1391/2 Main St.; 562/596-7661.
Sunset Travel Guide
Orange County Performing Arts
Center above Diners at Walt’s
Wharf left Strolling along Back
Bay Loop
designed by architect Cesar Pelli and a
46,000-square-foot plaza with a sculpture
from Richard Serra—the visual and performing arts grab the spotlight in this O.C. town.
GO Orange County Performing Arts Center.
Five stages for music and dance, including
the Renée and Henry Segerstrom Concert
Hall, which opened in 2006 and is home to
the Pacific Symphony. If you can’t catch a
concert, peer through the 87-foot glass
façade into the atrium for a glimpse of the
constellation chandelier of silver pendants
tipped with Baccarat crystals. 600 and 615
Town Center Dr.; ocpac.org or 714/556-2787.
Public art. More than a dozen works of public
art are the area’s hidden gem. Don’t miss
6 Sunset Travel Guide
Richard Serra’s imposing Connector, a steep
tower on OCPAC’s plaza (free; on Town Center
Dr.). At dusk, visit Isamu Noguchi’s California
Scenario sculpture garden (free; Anton Blvd.
at Park Center Dr.). Tucked between two office
buildings, the 1.6 acres are filled with abstract
works that represent the state’s landscapes.
South Coast Repertory. Nationally known for
developing new works from playwrights,
some who’ve gone on to win Pulitzers. Cesar
Pelli also designed this theater’s 2002 expansion, including its contemporary façade. 655
Town Center Dr.; scr.org or 714/708-5555.
EAT Angotei. The tiny local favorite won’t
take reservations, but friendly service and
tasty sushi make it worth the wait. $$$; 675
Newport Beach
It’d be difficult to find a more fitting salute to
summer and autumn (equally splendorous in
SoCal) than a day along the water in
Newport Beach. Stroll the boardwalk to the
ferry and hop aboard for a ride to nearby
Balboa Island. Kids squeal on the Ferris
wheel and beg their parents to buy them
Balboa Bars—slabs of vanilla ice cream
dipped in warm chocolate and rolled in sprinkles and nuts—while hawkers promote
hourly harbor cruises to spot sea lions, grand
yachts, and bayside mansions. Across the
way, the ornate 100-year-old Victorian cupola
of the Balboa Pavilion, the grande dame of
Newport Harbor, towers over the water.
GO Back Bay Loop. The 10-mile loop circles
Newport Bay. You can jump on anywhere, but
we recommend starting at the Vista Point
lookout for the best views. Walk along the
bluffs; when you reach the southeast side of
the bay at Big Canyon, detour off the main
path and cross the footbridge. You’ll hit a
shaded nature trail alongside a stream that’s
known as a hot spot for bird-watching. Bring
your binocs. Look for street parking near Eastbluff Dr. at Back Bay Dr.; 949/923-2290.
Blackies. West of Newport Pier, Blackies is a
favored spot for novice surfers. For surf conditions, call 949/673-3371.
Bodysurfing. A fabled experts-only spot at
Clockwise from top: gina sabatella, paulkhor (on flickr creative commons), Dave Lauridsen
Paularino Ave.; 714/557-2696.
Pinot Provence. Braised rabbit leg and escargot served in rustic French decor. $$$; in
Westin South Coast Plaza, 686 Anton Blvd.;
714/444-5900.
SHOP Camp Green Retail Center. The
co-friendly mall feels like an oasis in the
middle of Orange County. But not only is the
complex sustainable, the vendors are eco
and health conscious as well. Pick up organic
threads at Humanitaire; eat vegan at Native
Foods ($), a cafe housed in a yurt; or try a
Bikram yoga class ($20). 2937 Bristol St.;
thecampsite.com
Shopping off 17th Street. If you’re after
unusual boutiques, this neighborhood is a
breeding ground for the indies. Shop Patina
Boutique (closed Sun; 949/548-1930), in a home
tucked behind a car wash, for Mary Lou’s
Vintage Couture jewelry. Your closet can go
international with clothing and accessories
from Sweden and Japan at GOAT (949/6451111). Hunt around the crammed-with-goods
Paris to the Moon (949/642-0942) for curious
finds, from bird cages to board games.
Sunset Travel Guide
in an actual paddle-wheeler, the museum
enshrines Southern California’s maritime
lore. $4; 151 E. Coast Hwy., Newport Beach; www.
nhnm.org or 949/673-7863.
Kayaking on Newport Bay
Peter and Mary Bluth Interpretive Center.
7 Sunset Travel Guide
$10 per vehicle) in lot on Marguerite Ave. at
Ocean Blvd., Corona del Mar; 949/644-3151.
Crystal Cove State Historic District. You have
to take an underground tunnel beneath Coast
Highway and then hike down a small hill past
a ghostly enclave of abandoned cottages, but
the flat expanse of sand at Crystal Cove is
usually populated with more seabirds than
people. Along E. Coast Hwy., about 4 miles south
of Newport Beach; 949/494-3539.
Debra Huse Gallery. Paintings of harbor
scenes—the Balboa Pavilion, Crystal Cove,
and Catalina Island’s Avalon—by local
artists. Fri–Mon; 229 Marine Ave., Balboa
Island; 949/723-6171.
Duffy Electric Boat Company. Canopy-topped
electric boats for up to 12 people; pilot around
the harbor and up narrow channels lined
with multimillion-dollar homes. From $85 per
hour; 2001 W. Coast Hwy. (State 1); 949/645-6812.
Newport Harbor Nautical Museum. Housed
Laguna Beach
Aaah, Laguna Beach—the perfect seaside
locale for a weekend with that special someone. It is a place blessedly stocked with
eateries where a guy can get noteworthy
huevos rancheros while his beloved browses
chic shops along Ocean and Forest Avenues
for bejeweled sandals.
Short of hiring a helicopter, there are only
two ways to get to this gallery-filled artist
colony, either along Coast Highway or down
eucalyptus-laden Laguna Canyon Road,
which curves like a riverbed, flowing down to
the sea from the base of steep hills dotted
Dave Lauridsen
the end of the Balboa Peninsula, the Wedge,
has the best bodysurfing break in Southern
California—maybe the world. Accessible from
the south end of Balboa Blvd., Balboa; call
949/673-3371 for a surf report.
China Cove Kayak Adventures. A guided tour
of Newport Harbor in brightly colored sit-ontop kayaks, with a stop for a swim at one of
Newport’s best beaches, Pirates Cove, where
Gilligan’s Island was filmed. Open daily; reservations required; from $39; meet at the harbor, or
arrange to have the tour operator pick you up;
949/632-4694.
Corona del Mar State Beach. Picnic tables,
firepits, showers, and lots of lifeguards make
the generally calm waters of Corona del Mar
State Beach, east of the entrance to Newport
Harbor, a popular hangout for the under-12
set and their moms and dads. Accessible from
Inspiration Point at the end of Orchid Ave. and
from Jasmine St. at Lookout Point, or park (from
The building blends so well into the bluffs,
you might miss it from the street. The flat
roof doubles as an observation deck; inside,
you can grab a free map of the Back Bay. Free;
2301 University Dr.; 949/923-2290.
EAT Back Bay Bistro. This fabulous brunch spot
at Newport Dunes resort is a 3-mile walk from
Vista Point, or a short kayak trip across the
bay (you can also drive). With 15-foot-high
glass windows and a retractable roof, the
waterfront patio is a sweet spot for Bloody
Marys, omelets, and killer views. Brunch Sat–
Sun; $$$; 1131 Back Bay Dr.; 949/729-1144.
Blue Beet Cafe. The best fish tacos north of
Ensenada can be had at the Blue Beet Cafe, a
noisy dive hidden in an alley near the
Newport Pier. One catch: They’re only available after the restaurant’s kitchen closes at 11
p.m. But at a buck each, they’re worth going
late. $; 11:30 a.m.–2 a.m. daily. 107 21st Place,
Newport Beach; 949/675-2338.
Charlie’s Chili. A popular hangout at the foot
of Newport Pier that’s perfect for peoplewatching. True to the name, the chili burgers
and chili fries are both great. $; 102 McFadden
Place, near Newport Pier; 949/675-7991.
The Crab Cooker. Even SpongeBob SquarePants would abandon the Krusty Krab for the
Crab Cooker. The line outside testifies to the
quality of the Crab Cooker’s wood-grilled
seafood, served on paper plates, and its popular prices—the best deal on the coast. $$. 2200
Newport Blvd., Newport Beach; 949/673-0100.
Sam & Harry’s. Classic American steakhouse
with thick cuts of meat and jet-fresh seafood
in an elegant setting. $$$$; in Marriott Hotel &
Spa, 900 Newport Center Dr.; 949/729-6900.
Sunset Travel Guide
Kids contemplate creatures at the
Ocean Institute’s Discovery Tank
above Strolling by the Laguna Beach
coastline left Finds from the sea at
Laguna Village
with aerie bright-white homes that look like
seagulls perched on precipices.
As you roll into town just before sunset,
you feel like you’re dropping into a box
canyon with the Pacific as its only outlet,
making the village feel cozy and isolated. A
breeze brings the faint smell of menthol (the
canyon’s eucalyptus trees) and something
sweet, like saltwater taffy, perhaps from one
of the candy stores. Long sheets of purplish
orange clouds scatter like flaming blankets
across the sky, suffusing the ocean and sky
with a fireside glow.
GO Laguna Art Museum. If the dozens of local
art galleries overwhelm you, spend an afternoon here. Its focus on California art is a
8 Sunset Travel Guide
good primer for further discovery. $15; 307 Cliff
Dr.; lagunaartmuseum.org or 949/494-8971.
Laguna Village. Beach- and art-themed
kiosks. On S. Coast Hwy. near Legion St.
Pure Light. Make your own custom embellished candles (from $10). 821 Laguna Canyon
Rd.; purelightcompany.com or 949/376-7200.
See sea lions. Despite its name, Seal Rock
(free; Crescent Bay Beach, N. Coast Hwy. at Cliff
Dr.; lblg.org) is the place to observe Laguna
Beach’s sea lion colony; they’re here yearround. Or you can go to Pacific Marine
Mammal Center (free but donations welcome;
20612 Laguna Canyon Rd.; pacificmmc.org or
949/494-3050), where injured and ill sea lions
are rehabilitated. Proceeds from the gift shop
Dana Point
Lacking the bling of Newport and the art
legacy of Laguna, Dana Point is the oftenoverlooked stepsister along the O.C. coast.
Which is a shame. Its unpretentious charm
and ocean-oriented character have much to
offer—quiet tidepools, a busy marina, a
sportfishing wharf, and the family-friendly
Ocean Institute, where you can explore all
things salty, from sailing to plankton. Getting
out on the water with a kayak or aboard a
wildlife cruise is easy, and in early autumn,
the weather and water are still warm and the
crowds are nonexistent—the perfect time to
check out the life aquatic.
GO Kayaking. Rent a kayak and poke around
the harbor. Capo Beach Watercraft Rentals,
34512 Embarcadero Pl.; from $20 per hour; www.
capobeachwatercraft.com or 949/661-1690.
Marine Wildlife Cruise. Ocean Institute scientists lead excursions along the coast aboard
the RV Sea Explorer to discover the wonders of
sea life. 1–3:30 Sat or Sun (call for dates); $35, $22
ages 4–12 (no children under 4), reservations
recommended; 24200 Dana Point Harbor Dr.;
www.ocean-institute.org or 949/496-2274.
Ocean Education Center. On weekends, the
Ocean Institute invites the public to explore
its aquariums, experience working marine
labs demonstrating water cycles, and board
the square-rigged Pilgrim to learn knot-tying
Clockwise from top: Gina Sabatella, David Fenton, Gina Sabatella
help care for the mammals.
Treasure Island. Crescent-shaped beach with
fishing and tidepools. Free; down a ramp at the
southwest edge of Montage Laguna Beach
resort; lblg.org
Victoria Beach. Beautiful pocket beach near
Casa Laguna Inn & Spa. Free; down the narrow
staircase (watch for other beachgoers) off Victoria Dr. at Sunset Terrace St.; lblg.org
EAT The Cottage Restaurant. Serves up
hearty California cuisine. $$$; 308 N. Coast
Hwy.; 949/494-3023.
Ruby’s Shake Shack. You can get fresh
lemonade at Ruby’s Shake Shack but, as the
name implies, shakes are the thing. The
Monkey Flip has chocolate, peanut butter,
banana, and dates. $. 7408 N. Coast Hwy.;
949/497-9666.
Sapphire Laguna. Delicious homemadechorizo huevos rancheros and eclectic dishes
like kalua pulled-pork quesadilla; brunch
Sat–Sun. $$$; 1200 S. Coast Hwy.; 949/715-9888.
Zinc Cafe & Market. Tasty pastries and generous portions of breakfast and lunch offerings.
$; 350 Ocean Ave.; 949/494-6302.
San Clemente offers
many simple pleasures
and sea chanteys. 10–3 Sat–Sun (Pilgrim open
10–2:30 Sun); $6.50, $4.50 ages 3–12, including
Pilgrim admission; contact info above.
EAT Cannons Seafood Grill. All things from
the sea at the casual blufftop restaurant with
panoramic views. $$$; 34344 Green Lantern St.;
949/496-6146.
Jon’s Fish Market. Fish and chips on the
wharf; inexpensive and very fresh fare. $$;
34665 Golden Lantern St.; 949/496-2807.
San Clemente
Just about every SoCal coastal city likes to
advertise itself as a friendly, aw-shucks kind of
town. That’s not always the case. But in San
Clemente, Orange County’s southernmost
beach town, the description feels as right as a
plunge in the Pacific on a hot day.
Stroll down Avenida Del Mar, the revitalized heart and soul of this seaside burg, and
you’re immediately struck by two things:
9 Sunset Travel Guide
Everyone seems to know one another, and
they’re happy to introduce you to their friends.
What gives San Clemente that smalltown charm is the fact that, even now, you
can drop your loafers off for repair at the
cobbler and then cross the street and look at
the latest Hoovers at the appliances store.
Still, there’s a definite sense that as more
upscale restaurants and boutiques move into
the neighborhood, the days are numbered for
the likes of the local barbershop.
Let’s hope not. Town icons would be
sorely missed. As would the sense that in San
Clemente, the Southern California beachtown ideal lives on.
GO Beaches. About 1/4 mile south of the pier is
one of the most popular surf beaches in San
Clemente. During the summer, surfing here is
allowed only during the morning and evening
hours. A little farther south is the familyoriented Calafia Beach, at San Clemente
State Park; there’s metered parking in a
beachfront lot. For more information, contact
the City of San Clemente Beaches, Parks &
Recreation Department (949/361-8264).
San Clemente Pier. Even with a newly vibrant
downtown, San Clemente’s big summer
draws are the surf and sand. Follow Avenida
Del Mar down toward the water to the
metered public parking at Parque Del Mar.
From here, it’s an easy walk to the San Clemente Pier, where you can hang over the railing
and watch the surfers shoot the pilings below
you. There are almost always surfers on the
north side of the pier; the south side typically
sees more swimmers and bodyboarders.
EAT Antoine’s Café. Locals’ favorite gathering
place for breakfast or lunch. Simple dishes—
burgers, salads, and quiche—in a friendly,
surfer-oriented environment. $$; breakfast and
lunch daily; 218 S. El Camino Real; 949/492-1763.
BeachFire. The restaurant that brought new
life to the downtown area still draws big
crowds, particularly on weekends. It’s more
about the vibe than the food, but do save
room for the s’mores. $$-$$$; 204 Avenida Del
Mar; 949/366-3232.
Cafe Calypso. Coffees and sandwiches in a
pretty patio setting. $; breakfast and lunch
daily; 114 Avenida Del Mar; 949/366-9386.
Gordon James Grill & Bar. An unpretentious
steakhouse somewhere between Chart House
casual and Morton’s chic. Good selection of
specialty martinis. $$$; lunch Tue–Fri, dinner
daily; 110 N. El Camino Real; 949/498-9100.
La Galette Crêperie. Its pierside location
makes it a great place to people-watch over a
latte and a fresh berry and cream crêpe. $;
breakfast and lunch daily; 612 Avenida Victoria;
949/498-5335.
Ole’s Tavern. Home to the Blue Bikini drink
and a giant fish tank. 127 S. El Camino Real;
949/498-9400.
SHOP Angel Wings. A fun apparel and accessory shop. Owner Laurie Wodiske also owns
Variant Jewelry and Clothing (165–B Avenida
Del Mar; 949/366-6264), across the street.
204–C Avenida Del Mar; 949/218-5258.
Icons of Surf. The icons of this meaty surf
shop are classic board shapers such as
Robert August and Hap Jacobs. 217 S. El
Camino Real; 949/429-7133.
THOMAS MICHAEL ALLEMAN
Sunset Travel Guide
Sunset Travel Guide
Browsing for colorful
frocks at Macalistaire
right The shop’s furniture and decor finds
Vintage in O.C.
Midcentury mod in Fullerton
The swinging inventory at Out of Vogue
draws Mad Men set decorators for period
gems like barware, Lucite barstools, bright
enameled cookware, sofas with mint-condition upholstery, cork lamps, prints by
photographer Richard Avedon, sculptural
burlwood coffee tables, vintage guitars, and
even fedoras. Don’t Miss On a budget?
They’ve got highball glasses with cool
designs for a few bucks each. Closed Sun; 109
E. Commonwealth Ave.; outofvogue.com or
714/879-6647.
Furniture and frocks in Laguna Beach
The new Macalistaire at 1850 tempts with
bohemian finds like Persian rugs, artwork, and
maybe a farmhouse console paired with a
brocade sofa, or a travertine coffee table
topped with Moroccan highball glasses and
mismatched china. Step into the next room for
dresses organized by color and decade, and
display cases full of bangles, gold lockets, and
cocktail rings. Baskets overflow with oversize
Deco and midcentury antiques in
Old Towne Orange
In a town known for antiques shopping,
Woody’s Antiques stands out to Hollywood
and even international connoisseurs for its
two stories of restored midcentury furniture.
Don’t Miss A large collection of refinished
natural-stain vintage Heywood Wakefield
furniture from as far back as the 1940s; ’50s
chrome dinette sets and frosted glassware;
and restored Paul Frankl–style Hawaiianprint rattan. 169 and 173 N. Glassell St.;
woodysantiques.com or 714/744-8199.
L.A. gets all the cred, but don’t discount the O.C. for retro finds
10 Sunset Travel Guide
vintage shades and graphic-print scarves, and
the shelves are lined with distressed-leather
hobo bags. Don’t miss Pop in on a Friday or
Saturday night, and you’ll score a glass of
bubbly. 1850 S. Coast Hwy.; macalistaire1850.com
or 949/497-9080.
Shoes and accessories in
Newport Beach
The bright turquoise exterior of Swellegant
andrea m. gomez (2)
can’t help but flag you down. Once you pass
through the swinging metal doors, you’ll find
hundreds of pairs of shoes (dating back as far
as the ’30s). You might see red snakeskin
cowboy boots and rosette-adorned kitten
heels, or classic Adidas kicks and old-school
roller skates. The hat collection is just as
broad and colorful, with fur, feathers, and
sequins. And we love the ’50s swing coats
and ’70s trenches. Don’t Miss For the fellas:
flannel shirts, skinny ties, and original board
shorts. 3409 Newport Blvd.; 949/673-3604.
Sunset Travel Guide
The Mad Hatter takes a
spin at Disneyland’s Mad
Tea Party below Disney’s
Grand Californian Hotel
Can a theme park live up to its legend? Read, and see
Caption white above Xxxx
xx xxx xxxx xx xxx xxxx.
11 Sunset Travel Guide
Growing up in Southern California, one
learns Orange County’s amusement parks
the way the children of Bordeaux learn every
Grand Cru vineyard: lovingly, opinionatedly.
Those French kids know terroir; SoCal kids
know the Tiki Room.
Southern California kids know when to
get to Disneyland—crack of dawn. They
know what and where to eat, starting with
English toffee on Main Street, U.S.A., and
culminating, many sugar-filled hours later,
with a frozen banana in New Orleans Square.
They know to hoard their most valuable tickets for their favorite attractions.
But years pass—decades pass—and the
cosmos changes. People grow up and leave
Southern California, but from Knott’s Berry
Farm and Disneyland there come rumors of
new rides, entire new parks. When the time
comes to escort one’s own young child on his
first amusement park weekend, the SoCal kid
of yesteryear may feel a little daunted, like an
aging quarterback returning after arthroscopic
surgery. Does he still have the moves?
Friday
Disneyland isn’t the original Orange County
theme park. That honor belongs to Knott’s
Berry Farm ($54.99, $23.99 ages 3–11; 8039 Beach
Blvd., Buena Park; www.knotts.com or 714/220-
Cheryl Himmelstein (2)
Disney days
and knights
Sunset Travel Guide
Roller coasters are all
the rage at Knott’s
RIGHT Medieval Times
5200). In the 1920s, Walter Knott and his wife,
Cordelia, began selling chicken dinners and
delicious pies made from a new variety of
fruit that Knott helped popularize: the
boysenberry. From those rustic beginnings
grew the current 160-acre extravaganza.
Much of the modern Knott’s Berry Farm is
geared toward those lovers of extreme rides
not available at Disneyland. You may take
one shuddering look at Xcelerator and
Supreme Scream and escort your child to the
more placid confines of Camp Snoopy. When
it’s time for lunch, stop by the park’s Fiesta
BBQ ($$) for grilled food served in a pretty
lakeside setting. If your sweet tooth calls, try
one of the park’s signature confections at
Funnel Cake Kitchen ($)—go with the
boysenberry topping.
Fastballs and fine art You just might want
to do something in Orange County other
than visit a theme park. Baseball is one good
12 Sunset Travel Guide
bet, if the Los Angeles Angels of Anaheim are
in town (from $16, from $5 ages 2–12; at the
Angel Stadium of Anaheim, 2000 Gene Autry
Way, Anaheim; losangeles.angels.mlb.com or
714/634-2000). If you’re in an aesthetic mood,
venture to the Bowers Museum (closed Mon;
from $18, $16 ages 6–17; 2002 N. Main St., Santa
Ana; www.bowers.org or 714/567-3600) for a
soothing, intellectually elevated atmosphere
you may be longing for at points during the
rest of the weekend.
Getting medieval Or—if you have a 6-yearold who likes anything involving swords—
you could plunge into Medieval Times ($57.95,
$35.95 ages 12 and under, meal included; reservations required; 7662 Beach, Buena Park; www.
medievaltimes.com or 714/521-4740). To envision
Medieval Times, imagine Windsor Castle
crossed with a roller rink. Your appointed
knight and his fellow cavaliers appear on
their mighty steeds, amid such swirling
Saturday
How do you successfully navigate Disneyland
(one-day, one-park tickets from $76, $68 ages 3–9;
1313 S. Harbor Blvd., Anaheim; www.disneyland.
com or 714/781-4565)? You need a plan, advises
Bob Sehlinger, author of the compulsively
readable Unofficial Guide to Disneyland 2010
(John Wiley & Sons, 2010; $17.99).
Although visiting on a Saturday, with its
typical crowds, can be viewed as an imperfect
plan, early-morning hours are less crowded.
You can hop from one highlight to the next:
the Haunted Mansion, the Jungle Cruise. As
crowds build up, you can use the Fastpass
system, which allows you to book appointments on favorite rides like Space Mountain
and Big Thunder Mountain Railroad.
Downtown Disney Around noon, as lines for
food and rides tend to grow long, you can do
something that was once unthinkable: leave
the park. The Downtown Disney District (1500
S. Disneyland Dr.; www.downtowndisney.com or
714/300-7800), just outside the park’s gates,
offers shops and restaurants that wouldn’t
be out of place in the hipper neighborhoods
of L.A. Break for lunch at La Brea Bakery ($;
714/490-0233): no churning crowds, no
costumed characters, just striking women in
dark glasses, all with boyfriends named
Philippe. Is this in the Happiest Place on
Earth or on Melrose Avenue? Whatever: it’s
your happy place.
Night in the Happiest Place on Earth The
reward for your afternoon breather is a
perfect evening at Disneyland. The crowds
have thinned; when you do stand in line for
Mr. Toad’s Wild Ride, it’s all pleasant chatting
in the jasmine-scented night. As you make an
ronnielew (on flickr creative commons), cliff1066 (on flickr creative commons)
clouds of fog and so many tosses of perfectly
conditioned hair that you’re transported to
Camelot—or maybe a Bon Jovi video.
Sunset Travel Guide
Strolling around the park above A
production of Aladdin at Hyperion
Theater left A classic Ferris wheel
at California Adventure
ascent up the Matterhorn Bobsleds, then
watch, suitably awestruck, as fireworks light
up the sky, your child may utter that Disneyland “is paradise.”
Sunday
California, here we come Disney’s California Adventure received mixed press when it
first opened, but we flat-out love the place.
We love its witty takes on classic California
architecture, from Condor Flats to the razzledazzle of Hollywood Boulevard. When, on a
simulated hang glider in Soarin’ Over California, any California resident drifts over the
corner of the state she calls home, just try
not to cheer.
13 Sunset Travel Guide
The little ones are smitten, too. Soarin’ is
popular, as are Grizzly River Run, It’s Tough
to Be a Bug, and the Hyperion Theater’s
musical theater productions.
Deluxe dinner Save the best for last: dinner
at the Napa Rose ($$$$; dinner daily; 1600 S.
Disneyland Dr.; 714/300-7170), in Disney’s Grand
Californian Hotel & Spa, adjacent to California Adventure. The Grand Californian is Arts
and Crafts on a vast scale: A cynic might call
it Greene and Greene meets Barnum & Bailey.
But it’s impossible to be cynical in a place so
lovely. Eat well, drink well.
“A dream is a wish your heart makes,” sang
Disney’s Cinderella. Your hearts’ dreams for
this trip will be more than granted.
Check websites. A click of your mouse
can get you time-saving maps, printat-home tickets, and online specials.
Check out free-on-your-birthday
admissions to Disneyland® Park and
Disney’s California Adventure® Park.
Visit off peak. Tuesdays and Wednesdays usually have the smallest crowds.
If you’re not locked into a summer
visit, spring and fall are quieter, and
usually with some of the best weather.
Head for the back of the park. When
gates open, crowds usually jam up at
the first available rides. Smart visitors
walk farther afield to avoid the crush,
then work their way back toward the
entrance.
Bring sunscreen.
Pack snacks if you can. Bring refillable
water bottles and kid-friendly nibbles
like raisins, crackers, and string
cheese. (Note: Some parks frown at
bringing in food from outside; check
policies first.)
Stay in touch. Theme parks are big,
and families can get separated. Put
little ones in bright (even neon) colors
so they’re easier to spot, and tuck your
contact info in their pockets. If older
kids want to explore on their own,
designate meeting times and locations, and make sure everyone has cell
phones or walkie-talkies.
Book special tours. The VIP tours at
Disneyland® Park includes preferred
seating and special activities (from $175
per hour, up to 10 guests, plus admission).
At Disney’s California Adventure®
Park, Segway tours guide you through
the park—before gates open.
Reprinted with permission from California
Travel and Tourism Commission, www.visit
california.com
Lodging
Inside Disneyland Convenience and
Mouseketeer-atmosphere are pluses of staying at the park’s hotels: Disney’s Paradise
Pier Hotel (from $250), Disneyland Hotel (from
$230), and Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel &
Spa (from $264). Lodging packages: disneyland.
com
Outside the park Dozens of hotels are
within a walk or a shuttle ride of Disneyland
and Knott’s Berry Farm; for information and
hotel reservations, contact the Anaheim/
Orange County Visitor & Convention Bureau
(anaheimoc.org or 714/765-8888).
Clockwise from top: Denise Cross (on flickr creative commons), cheryl himmelstein, ronnielew (on flickr creative commons)
Theme park tips
Sunset Travel Guide
A gorgeous sunset
view from Casa
Laguna right Blue
Lantern Inn
family atmosphere and easy access to the
beach and San Clemente Pier. When you’re
not on the sand, you can hang out at the
picnic tables, throw burgers on the barbecue,
and warm yourself around the firepit in the
evenings. In San Clemente. From $125; threenight minimum on holidays; beachcomber
motel.com
Have sweet dreams at our favorite accommodations
Gallic getaway
With its French antiques and tapestries,
luxurious sheets, and slow ceiling fans, Ayres
Hotel Seal Beach makes every effort to bring
a touch of European-inspired elegance to the
beach. A boutique hotel that keeps things
tastefully intimate, the Ayres features deluxe
suites in which Sir Noël Coward would have
felt right at home. In Seal Beach. From $119;
ayreshotels.com
14 Sunset Travel Guide
Breezy elegance
A longtime private club, the Balboa Bay Club
& Resort added over 100 guest rooms a few
years back, as well as a spa that’s open to the
public. In Newport Beach. From $205; balboa
bayclub.com
Casual seaside retreat
A loyal clientele returns year after year to the
red tile–roofed Beachcomber Motel for its
Romance by the ocean
Casa Laguna Inn & Spa is a historical inn
with suites and rooms, most with fireplaces.
The Togetherness spa treatment (from $250)
includes side-by-side massages, a soak in the
ocean-view garden tub, and a bottle of
bubbly with souvenir flutes. In Laguna Beach.
From $249, including breakfast, wine, and
cheese; casalaguna.com
Retro flair
The restored historic Crystal Cove Beach
Cottages have an endless-sand, step-backin-time feel, and they’re unusually afford-
casa laguna inn & spa, Blue Lantern Inn
O.C. hotels
A touch of the East Coast in the West
Cape Cod architecture isn’t what you expect
in Southern California. But Blue Lantern Inn’s
New England style is actually a fitting design
in a community named for Boston seaman
Richard Henry Dana Jr. High on the bluffs
that Dana celebrated in Two Years Before the
Mast, the inn was recently updated. Airy and
light, all but four rooms have ocean views.
There are also touches to warm the body and
soul: fireplaces, whirlpool tubs, and memorable sunsets. Homemade baked goods and
granola complement main courses such as
the inn’s French-bread custard; free wine and
hors d’oeuvres are served 4:30 to 6:30 daily.
Unexpected pleasure: Bicycles and a fitness
room are available for guests. In Dana Point.
From $185 (includes breakfast and afternoon
wine); bluelanterninn.com
Sunset Travel Guide
Hang 10 at Hotel La Casa
del Camino RIGHT Doryman’s Oceanfront Inn
Newport Beach. From $139; fairmont.com/
newportbeach
able. But they’re first come, first served, and
you can only book up to seven months
ahead. In Newport Beach. From $180; crystal
covebeachcottages.com
Hints of the Old World
Stepping from the action of a Southern California beach scene into the quiet, skylit
mahogany recesses of Doryman’s Oceanfront
Inn is a bit like going back in time. Dating to
the late 1800s, when it was a commercial
building, the inn is one of Newport Beach’s
oldest structures. But it’s the thoughtfully
selected design touches—including
antiques, sunken Italian marble tubs in each
room, and canopy beds—that nearly place
Doryman’s in the Old World. To plant you
firmly in the present setting, walk just yards
from the front door to the sand or book one
of the inn’s many oceanview rooms. Fresh
baked goods and continental breakfasts help
15 Sunset Travel Guide
you start your day off right, and you can
savor crab legs for dinner at the inn’s 21
Oceanfront Restaurant ($$$$; 949/673-2100). In
Newport Beach. From $199 (includes breakfast);
dorymansinn.com
Do good and feel good
As if spa treatments didn’t feel good enough,
the Willow Stream Spa at the Fairmont
Newport Beach does good. When you book
an aromatherapy Generosity Massage (from
$139), the California Coastal Commission gets
10 percent of the proceeds to help protect
state beaches. Or try Eco-Chic ($189), a headto-toe organic extravaganza that includes a
body scrub, massage, mini facial, and foot
soak using bio-degradable, chemical-free
products—such as chamomile lotion, herbal
serums, and lavender oil—capped by a
cuppa organic green tea. The luxurious hotel
rooms keep that soothing vibe going. In
Hang out, hang 10
You don’t have to be a surfer dude to enjoy
the splashy new surf suites at the Hotel La
Casa del Camino. Ten big-kahuna surf
companies (like Billabong, Quiksilver, Rip
Curl, and Roxy) teamed with designers to
outfit 10 rooms as an ode to SoCal’s favorite
pastime. We especially like the Rip Curl, with
its wall-size underwater photo mural, surfboards on the walls, pillows made of boardshorts material, and, for an authentic touch,
views of the crashing waves from the
window. Pop up to the rooftop bar (the only
one in town) for drinks and insanely gorgeous
sunsets. They’ll bring you a fuzzy blue blanket when it gets chilly. Go to casasurfproject.
com to see the suites. In Laguna Beach. From
$229; lacasadelcamino.com
Old meets new
At the Spanish-style Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach Resort & Spa, a pedestrian bridge
over Pacific Coast Highway makes it easy for
kids to get from the hotel to the beach; better
yet, the resort store sells firewood, for fire
rings on the sand, and fixings for s’mores. For
grown-ups, the Red Chair Lounge offers
bottles of champagne at half-price every night
Andrea M. Gomez, Dennis Fugnetti/Miad Photography
A happier time at the Happiest Place
Even hard-core Disneyland fans need a break
in their day. Like, say, a swim. And there’s
nowhere closer, or better, than the trio of
pools at the gorgeous Disney’s Grand Californian Hotel & Spa—a five-minute stroll, or a
Monorail ride, from the mighty Magic Kingdom. Insider tip: the Grand is the priciest,
but booking at any of Disney’s three hotels
gets you access to all of their pools. If your
room key doesn’t open the pool gate, flash it
at the front desk. In Anaheim. From $264; twonight minimum; disneyland.disney.go.com
Sunset Travel Guide
mood is festive along the paths of a 7-acre
public park, with locals walking their dogs
and watercolorists sitting at their easels to
gaze out to the ocean; the Montage is thus a
throwback to the Southern California oceanfront hotels of the late 19th century, places
that became gathering spots for their
communities. After beachcombing, wander
the hotel to explore its collection of California
impressionist paintings. The Redfern Gallery,
just outside the main entrance, has more
vintage impressionist works. You can also
linger for a spa treatment in the hotel’s
20,000-square-foot facility. All the rooms
have an ocean view, and the Craftsmaninspired stylings create a sense of spending a
weekend in a summer house rather than in
an opulent villa. In Laguna Beach. From $595;
montagelagunabeach.com
The Montage’s pool at sunset
above St. Regis Monarch Beach
left Surf & Sand’s decor evokes
the beach
from 4:30 to 7 p.m. Where else on the beach
can you get a bottle of Veuve Clicquot for $38?
On the more casual front, its gourmet deli,
Surf City Grocers, is a great spot to grab a
picnic lunch for the beach. In Huntington Beach.
From $192; huntingtonbeach.hyatt.com
Storybook charm
Tucked away in a secluded garden
compound, the two cottages and one studio
apartment at Manzanita Cottages are loaded
with Hansel-and-Gretel charm. Think
Solvang and you’ve got the picture: shingled
roofs, brightly painted front doors, fireplaces,
hardwood floors, and hand-painted tiles.
Each of the cottages has a private patio—
16 Sunset Travel Guide
accessed by French doors in the bedroom—
opening onto lushly landscaped grounds. A
10-minute walk brings you to the white sands
of Main Beach or the shops and diversions of
Laguna village. Cottages accommodate up to
four people and have kitchens and bathrooms; studio accommodates two people
and has a kitchenette and bathroom. In
Laguna Beach. Cottages from $195, apartment
from $125; manzanitacottages.com
Luxe sans attitude
From the Montage Laguna Beach’s fifth-story
balcony, the views take in a broad sweep of
the coast, with Catalina at anchor along the
horizon. On the resort’s blufftop grounds, the
Coastal dazzler
Like a long-anticipated Hollywood blockbuster, when St. Regis Monarch Beach opened
a few years back, the resort had a huge budget
($240 million), staggering special effects, and
megawatt star power. The initial buzz was
boffo, and the glowing reviews of the Tuscanthemed golf resort and spa have continued
ever since. The rooms are bigger and the
amenities—from flat-screen TVs, DVD players, and minibars in every room to private
poolside cabanas with stereos and high-speed
Internet access—are over-the-top decadent.
In Dana Point. From $391; stregismb.com
A name that says it all
Surf & Sand Resort, a sophisticated Laguna
Beach favorite, underwent a $2 million
improvement project a few years ago. Its
expanded Aquaterra Spa is open to
nonguests. The hotel’s Splashes Restaurant
and Bar is a prime spot for beachfront lunches
and dinner. In Laguna Beach. From $505;
surfandsandresort.com
Clockwise from top: The St. Regis Monarch Beach, montage laguna beach, Surf & Sand Resort
Primo views of surf conditions
Try to get one of the Shorebreak Hotel’s
waterfront rooms: 219, 221, 223, or 225, all of
which have balconies facing the pier. In
Huntington Beach. From $199; shorebreak
hotel.com
Sunset Travel Guide
Travel
resources
Find more inspiration for travel in the West
on Sunset.com
Catalina Island getaway
On this oh-so-romantic island escape, you can shop, snack,
dangle your toes in the sea, pedal along pristine shoreline with
your sweetie, and much more. Best of all, Catalina’s just 22
miles from the mainland—an easy ferry ride from several
SoCal departure points.
www.sunset.com/travel/california
Top 10 hideaways by the sea
These coastal retreats have it all: stellar scenery, rich amenities, nearby treats, and plenty of romance. Listen to the ocean
from your room in one of our favorite lesser-known inns, from a
rainforest resort on B.C.’s wild Vancouver Island to a luxe yet
casual inn just yards from the beach on Maui.
Sunset.com/Travel
Your ultimate resource for travel in the
West, Sunset Travel is packed with tips
on the best places to go, from National
Parks to urban retreats. Get inspired
with Sunset’s ideas for fun weekend
trips or the ultimate Western vacation.
www.sunset.com/travel
17 Sunset Travel Guide
Great CA fall trips
Pining for that mythical endless
summer? Find it during California’s
golden season. From perfect beach
weather to vibrant harvest and crush
festivals, California shines in the fall.
And with plenty of off-season deals to
discover, it’s the perfect time for a trip.
www.sunset.com/travel/california
Clockwise from left: thomas j. story, dave lauridsen, thomas j. story
www.sunset.com/travel
Sunset Travel Guide
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