to John Taylor`s Espalier Book

THE WELL DRESSED WALL
A Practical Guide for Espalier Training Fruit and Ornamental Trees in Australia
JOHN W. TAYLOR
HORTISCULPTURE
2009
1
Contents
I.
Preface
p3
Revival of an Old Art for Today's Needs
p4
II . Creative and Practical Possibilities
p6
III . Design - Imagination your only Limit
p10
IV . Getting Started
p14
V . Taking Shape
p17
VI . Maintenance and Fruitfulness
p19
About the Author
p22
© This work is copyright. Apart from any use under the Copyright Act 1968, no part may be
reproduced, copied, scanned, stored in a retrieval system, recorded, or transmitted, in any
form or by any means, without prior permission of the Author.
Receivers of this disk in a workshop may take one hard copy for their reference.
2
Preface
My introduction to the espalier method of training trees came from my father. During World War II
when he was a member of “Dad's Army”, and in post war years, he espaliered fruit trees around
fences and walls of the garage at the back of the house and several crab apples along a fence at the
front.
However, by the time I came to develop gardens of my own espaliering of fruit and ornamental trees
had largely lost favour. It was the age of the low maintenance native tree and shrub garden that
sometimes had a vegetable garden but rarely fruit trees unless already there from a previous planting.
If fruit trees were present they would invariably be free standing and often out of shape and diseased.
I planted my first orchard of a dozen free standing fruit trees of mixed varieties when, with my wife
and young family, we developed a seven acre hobby farm in the Dandenong ranges North of
Melbourne.
The orchard had to compete for our attention with the goat, sheep, chooks, horse, vegetable garden,
vines, and finally a commercial three acre planting of blueberries.
In the six years we were on the farm the orchard trees grew to a size where pruning, spraying,
birdnetting and picking were wearying and awkward exercises climbing up and down a step ladder.
On the next property, this time only one acre, I decided to put a small planting of blueberries,
raspberries, pears, apples and stone fruits under a 9m x 18m fruit cage, being the surest way to keep
out the birds.
This time the trees were espaliered on a Tatura Trellis and on wires around the walls of the fruit cage.
With a battered 1943 copy of Edmunds "Espalier Fruit Trees- Their History and Culture" inherited
from my father in my hand I tentatively began my experience of espalier training and a hobby
nursery, “Hortisculpture” resulted.
To further the exercise we moved onto a two acre property we called “Evelyndene”. There we
developed a demonstration formal garden showing how espalier trained fruit and ornamental trees
could be used in the garden and devoted one acre to an espalier nursery.
Over a ten year period, concluding in the mid 1990’s, I trained and sold espaliered fruit and
ornamental trees to keen gardeners, the nursery trade and landscape gardeners.
Subsequently, I have assisted with the development of fruit cages. The most recent was for my sonin-law on his property in Wonga Park with espaliered fruit trees within the cage (see Figure 6).
This booklet is the result of my hands-on learning experience, reading and overseas observation.
I wish you the same enjoyment of this interesting, creative and fruitful hobby as I have experienced.
John Taylor
2009
3
I. Revival of an Old Art for Today's Needs
The Beginnings
The training of fruit and ornamental trees in two dimensions can be traced back as early as the time
of the Pyramids of Egypt.
Ancient Egyptian tomb paintings reveal enclosed areas for growing plants in a well developed layout
including trees placed against walls.
Art and writings from other cultures also evidences the training of trees to fit courtyards and other
confined spaces, the practice being common by the Romans and in China from early times.
On the Continent and in England, the growing of trees in this two dimensional form was known as
training in an "espalier" fashion.
The word espalier means " The lattice work on which trees are trained: a tree so trained." It comes
from the French "epauliere".
The recording of espalier training was first undertaken by a French Priest, Father Legendre of
Henonville in 1684.
Around the same time on the other side of the Channel, an Anglican Priest, Reverend John Lawrence,
Rector of Yelvertoft, North Hamptonshire recorded his experiments in a book entitled "The
Clergyman's Recreation", the fifth edition appearing in 1717.
Those who are interested in pursuing the historical beginnings further, and descriptions of espalier
training in greater detail, may wish to track down a book by Alan Edmunds, now out of print, entitled
"Espalier Fruit Trees - Their History and Culture" published by the author around 1943. Edmunds
was the guru of espaliers in Australia leading to a strong interest in their development in many
Australian backyards during the 1940's and 50's. A similar surge of interest also occurred in USA at
that time.
A Timely Reintroduction For Today's Shrinking Backyard
There has been a small continuing interest in training trees in an espalier fashion since the 1950's,
however a new phenomenon has developed - medium and high density living. Whilst this is not new
for Europe, it is for Australia - previously the land of the quarter acre block.
Regular family block subdivisions are now often down to 540 square metres and strata title unit
developments may be as small as 300 square metres. There is clearly no longer the opportunity to
grow the three or four free standing fruit trees traditionally found on the quarter acre block.
A Tree For The Environmentalists
Espalier training gives the environment-conscious gardener the opportunity to eliminate or reduce
chemical usage on fruit trees.
As the tree can be maintained at an accessible height it enables it to be regularly inspected for insect
and fungus problems and treated with an environment-friendly solution such as picking off offending
caterpillars. It can also be readily netted to keep off birds, possums, and other animals competing for
your fruit.
4
The ease of watering espaliered trees with drip or microjet irrigation attached to the support frame
also reduces water consumption.
Gardening For The Disabled And Aged
Espalier training gives those with limited physical movement the enjoyment of growing fruit and
ornamental trees. Trees can be grown by disabled or aged gardeners at a height that is convenient to
them either from a wheelchair or standing without stretching. Additionally the ease with which such
trees can be irrigated allows for watering by merely setting the timer on the tap.
Trees can also be espaliered in pots with appropriate support frames and could be placed on a
verandah or balcony.
Other Creative Uses Of Espaliers
Space limitation and the other considerations mentioned are only several of the reasons to introduce
espalier specimens into your garden. The next chapter suggests many other creative applications, with
espaliers equally at home in the cottage or formal garden.
5
II. Creative and Practical Possibilities
Screens
One of the classical uses of espalier
trained trees is as a screen, often to
separate the vegetable garden or
service area from the more formal
flower and shrub areas.
The trees are trained on a trellis
usually in a horizontal form,
although other designs are possible.
A very attractive form of screen is
the "Belgian Fence" where the trees
are trained with two arms at forty
five degrees planted one metre apart
overlapping eachother to form a
diamond pattern.
Figure 1 - Belgian Fence at Evelyndene
In formal gardens, screens are often used to delineate garden "rooms" and so give the garden a certain
mystery that is progressively revealed as one moves from one area or room to another.
Espalier trained screens are much softer in appearance than fences and have the attraction of
providing blossom in the spring, fruit in the late summer, a dramatic foliage display in the autumn,
and an interesting tracery of branches in the winter depending on the planting. The "Gorgeous" crab
apple meets these criteria and has the added advantage of bright orange-red fruit which can be either
picked for making jelly or used for indoor decoration.
Fences And Walls
Fences and walls can often be uninteresting blank spaces or even an eyesore. By erecting wires,
trellis or other form of frame on the fence or wall, fruit or ornamental trees can be trained to become
a feature. This is particularly so if an interesting design is chosen such as a candelabra form.
Growing fruit trees in such a fashion allows for several kinds of trees to be placed in a confined
space, and even more varieties introduced by grafting. Espalier training readily allows this possibility
and is not difficult to achieve.
Figure 2 – Espaliers on wall, Erddig Hall, UK
Figure 3 – Netting, Wisley, UK
6
In the colder climate of Europe, soft fruit trees such as peaches and nectarines are espaliered against
South facing brick walls, sometimes even against brick walls within a hothouse, to produce fruit not
otherwise possible in such climates. The brick walls act as a heatbank providing an extended period
of warmth to the tree during the day. A frame can readily be constructed over the tree to allow for
ease of netting (Figure 3).
In Australia, given its harsh hot summers, it is necessary in fact to plant 30 centimetres away from a
North facing brick wall to avoid the fruit being cooked on the tree!
Free Standing Trellises
Ideally trellises are erected running NorthSouth. This allows for maximum sunlight on
all sides of the tree.
There are a variety of trellis forms. The
simplest is constructed of wire stretched
between posts and the trees grown along the
wires with additional bamboo or dowel
supports if required.
Again netting can readily be thrown over the
trellis at fruiting time.
Figure 4 – Espaliers on trellises, Evelyndene
Another form of trellis that creates a veritable
fruit machine of extraordinary productivity is
the Tatura Trellis. Posts or angle iron are
placed at the ends in a cross or Y with
intermediate supports. The trees are grown in
a "Y" form and horizontally along the wires
30cm apart between the end cross structures
with the bottom wire 45cm above the ground.
Trees are planted between 1 and 2 metres
apart depending on the vigor of the variety.
There are a number of other trellis forms used
commercially such as a multilayered "T".
Figure 5 – Tatura Trellis, Wonga Park
Fruit Cage
The espalier comes into its own when used in
a fruit cage
The fruit cage can be of any size, ideally in
modules of three metres covered with chicken
wire or plastic netting. It has the advantage of
excluding birds, rabbits, possums, bats and
domestic animals. You actually get to pick
your apples, pears, cherries, peaches, apricots,
and other soft fruits before the birds announce
they are ripe by demolishing or damaging your
crop! Vegetables can also be included and a
chicken coop attached as in Figure 6.
Figure 6 – Fruit cage, Wonga Park
7
Trees are espaliered around the walls of the cage, and within it, on Tatura Trellises or other form of
trellis. Berry fruit such as raspberries, strawberries, and blueberries can also be included in the cage.
All trees and plants can be easily watered by a drip system on a tap timer. Trees are readily pruned,
sprayed, and the fruit picked without climbing ladders as the top layer can be maintained within easy
reach of the grower.
Arches
Fruit and ornamental trees are frequently
trained over arches, pergolas or other
structures.
These can be used in garden designs to
draw the eye to another part of the garden,
or frame a piece of garden sculpture.
A series of arches can be placed at various
intervals giving the illusion of a tunnel as
in Figure 7.
Figure 7 – Arches, Bradbourne Gardens, E Malling, UK
Alternatively a fruit or ornamental tunnel
or "walk" can be created, as found in
some formal gardens in Europe and USA.
Apple and pears are common fruits used.
Ornamentals used over arches include
Wisteria, Laburnum and roses
Figure 8 - Fruit Walk, Chicago Botanical Gardens, USA
8
Free Standing Specimens
For the really adventurous, fruit
and ornamental trees can be trained
into free standing specimens on a
purpose-built frame. These can
become focal points in the garden.
Classical shapes include goblets,
pyramids and hoops.
Figure 9 – Free standing designs,
Bradbourne Gardens,
Malling, UK
Figure 10 – A two layered cross design,
Bradbourne Gardens,
E Malling, UK
Figure 11 – Free standing ornamental,
L’Abbaye-aux-Hommes, France
9
III. Design - Imagination your only Limit
The Garden As An Extension Of The House
Regretfully, planning of the garden is too often an afterthought when a new house is designed and
built.
The building of a new house gives a unique opportunity for the house and garden to be extensions of
the other. Many architects today are aware of this potential. Planned glimpses of the house from the
garden gives an added softness and texture to the garden when contrasted with the solid lines of the
house. Garden views planned to be seen from windows, doorways, verandahs, courtyards and the like
adds an interest and intrigue to the house generally.
Walls can be planned in advance to take an espalier specimen, espalier screens can lead the eye to a
chosen point, not to mention the dramatic use of a fruit walk and a site for a fruit cage can be
determined.
Most of us however do not have the opportunity to start from scratch and we have to start from two
"givens" - an existing house and garden.
Any new design of the garden should complement the house and accept the limitations of its
architecture. If you are able to afford it funds spent on skilled landscape design can lead to a
rewarding outcome and avoid pitfalls for the novice.
Espaliers can also be used to good advantage in public building design which frequently has large
areas of blank walls, or areas that would benefit by being defined in a softer fashion.
Classic Espalier Designs
The four most common designs of espaliers are as follows:
1. Horizontal
In this form branches are trained horizontally
from a central leader at around 30 centimetre
intervals. This is one of the easiest designs as
no additional frame work is necessary other
than horizontal wires as a support.
The horizontal orientation of the branches
also encourages the formation of fruit buds
by slowing the sap movement rather than
producing wood growth.
Figure 12 – Horizontal trained fruit tree
at Chicago Botanical Gardens
10
Be aware however that as the tree matures,
the top layer of the tree may become over
vigorous.
Figure 13 – Old pear tree, East Malling
2. Fan
The fan shape, where branches radiate from
the trunk, is most commonly used with the
more brittle trees such as stone fruits and
some ornamentals but can be used for the
more flexible trees such as pears and apples.
It is a pleasing design, particularly when
used with other configurations.
The fan shape can be relatively formal or
free flowing, the latter suiting fruit trees such
as figs or ornamentals.
Maintain 30cm between the branches to
allow for light penetration and fruit growth.
Figure 14 – Fan shaped tree at Evelyndene
3. Cordon
The cordon design is also very simple. Trees
are planted at 45 degree angles and kept to
a single stem. The angle of the stem is to
encourage fruitfulness. This form allows
dense planting at 1 metre intervals giving the
possibility of a number of types and varieties
of trees in a limited space.
The cordon design can be varied to add more
interest.
Figure 15 – Cordon, Wisley, UK
11
4. Candelabra
This can be a simple form, Figure 16, or a more sophisticated design, Figure 17, both found in the
Chicago Botanical Gardens, USA. Candelabras have the advantage over the horizontal form of not
having a central leader which is inclined to result in a top layer which has the greatest sap provision.
It is also rather eye catching and lends a touch of class to the garden design.
Figure 16 – Simple Candelabra
Figure 17 – Complex Candelabra
12
Other Possibilities
Some other designs are illustrated below. In the end providing the tree of your choice has new growth
wood that is sufficiently flexible, the design of an espalier is limited only by your imagination and
patience.
Figure 18 – Pears over gate,
Bradbourne Gardens, E Malling, UK
Figure 20- Informal fig, Sissinghurst, UK
Figure 19 – The fruit of much
patience, a lyre design, Bradbourne
Gardens, E Malling, UK
Figure 21 – “Step over” apples,
Versailles Castle, France
13
V. Getting Started
Determine The Location And Design
Most fruit and ornamental trees require a significant amount of sunlight during the day. Trees to be
espaliered should thus be placed on aspects that afford the sun from the North, East or West. Very
few trees can tolerate a South facing position.
Espaliered trees will also do poorly if they are significantly shaded for long periods of the day by
other trees or structures in the garden.
Determine the design desired for the tree in advance and the effect you wish to accomplish as this
will influence the type of support structure you put up and the acceptable shape of the tree you buy.
The size a tree will grow when espaliered will depend on the type and variety chosen, the root stock
and the design. In the instance of an apple, pear or cherry on standard root stock the tree could
potentially grow 7 metres wide and 4 metres high. With regular pruning, however, the same tree can
be confined to 3 metres wide and less than 2 metres high. On dwarfing root stock similar trees may
only achieve 2 metres wide by 1 metre high when fully grown.
Whilst trees are, at times, espaliered against the wall of a house consideration needs to be given to
possible intereference by the roots with the foundation of the building. Check with the supplier of
your tree.
The Support Structure
Before you plant your tree you will first need to erect a support structure.
If you are espaliering a tree along a paling fence with the posts and rails on your side the task is
simple. Staple wires to the posts, or if you wish to more readily tighten the wires, use eye bolts and a
turnbuckle on each wire. Alternatively, 10 centimetre square wire mesh can be stapled to the posts.
Mesh has the advantage of providing support for those designs that have a vertical component.
Wooden trellis may also be used.
On a wall or flat fence it will be necessary to attach wires or mesh using timber battens or brackets,
ensuring that the wires are no less than 10 centimetres from the wall or fence to allow sufficient air
flow around the branches.
Alternatively, a free standing structure can be placed in front of
the wall or fence using posts sunk into the ground. This may well
be advised in the instance where a tree is to be espaliered on a
North facing brick wall where a minimum distance of 30
centimetres from the wall is required to prevent heat damage to
the tree.
Those handy with a welder may wish to fashion a support in
tubular steel in the finished shape desired and painted a deep
green or black. The structure can be let into concrete in the
ground or bolted to the fence or wall.
Free standing structures will be required for screens. The less
obtrusive the structure the better. Tubular steel set into concrete
with appropriate supports is ideal. In a more agricultural setting
such as in the vegetable area, treated pine posts are quite
acceptable and relatively unobtrusive.
Figure 22 – Tubular steel screen structure, Evelyndene
14
In all instances, the first wire or bottom of the mesh or wooden trellis will be placed 40 centimetres
above the ground. This is to allow sufficient height to mow underneath if that is a consideration and
also ensures that the bottom layer is not competing with other plantings in the garden bed.
Subsequent wires are placed at 30 (or up to 40) centimetre intervals. Any vertical supports will also
be placed at 30 centimetre intervals. This ensures that branches are always a minimum of 30
centimetres apart thus allowing adequate admission of sun and air circulation and room for fruit to
form along the branches.
Vertical, or radiating supports in the case of a fan shape, on horizontal wires can be achieved by
wiring bamboo or dowels to the structure. These should be in position before training the tree. (See
Figure 22)
Buying The Tree
The choice of tree will be determined by the end result desired. If the espalier is to give continuous
cover to an unsightly wall or fence then an evergreen may be appropriate. If, however, the tree is to
reflect the changes of the seasons then it will be chosen for its Spring, Summer and Autumn displays
and perhaps for its Winter tracery which best reveals the design of the espalier.
Almost any tree can be espaliered if it has a single trunk or stem and is not given to significant
suckering. As already mentioned, trees with brittle wood are best espaliered in a fan shape.
Fruit trees most frequently espaliered are apples, pears, figs, citrus and cherries although apricots,
plums, peaches, nectarines also train well.
Citrus trees are a possibility, and can be placed in a pot with trellis behind. Nut trees and olives can
also be trained.
Ornamental trees often espaliered are Sasanqua Camellias, flowering cherries, flowering plums, crab
apples, persimmons, English Yew, Chinese Elm and Cotoneaster.
Deciduous trees will usually be purchased in winter.
Where possible commence with a "whip" ( alternatively called a "rod" ). This is a tree that has been
propagated with a central leader and has not been pruned by the nursery to form a vase shape. Such a
beginning allows the greatest design flexibility and the ability to commence the design at the correct
height.
Trees on dwarfing or semi dwarfing stock (eg M26) will reduce the size of the finished tree design.
Apples on a M26 stock will reduce the size by about 60%. A rootstock that dwarfs even further such
as M9 will reduce the size by 70% and would be suitable for trees grown in pots, borders or “step
over” trees (see Figure 21).
For a horizontal layer design you will start with two healthy
opposing buds around 40 centimetres above the ground level and a
vertical pointing bud above them and prune off the remainder of
the whip after planting.
Figure 23 – Unpruned whip
15
For designs that commence with a horizontal "mother branch" ( the bottom layer from which come
vertical branches) or a fan design the whip is pruned off above the two selected opposing horizontal
buds after planting.
If a whip is not available from your nursery, or cannot be ordered in, you will need to pick over the
stock for a tree that has opposing branches that will form your basic structure and prune off unwanted
branches before planting.
For those desiring a flying start enquire of your nursery for a started or advanced espalier specimen.
These will most likely be in pots or root control bags. Be sure to remove the root control bag before
planting as these are not biodegradable.
The Great Moment
Having determined the place of your espalier within the context of the rest of the garden and your
house, and having carefully erected the supporting structure, the exciting moment has come to plant
the tree.
Dig the hole larger than the ball of the tree if in a pot or root control bag so as not to create a sump to
trap water. If appropriate to the type of tree you are planting ( check with your nursery) place
fertiliser in the hole and mix with the soil avoiding chemical fertiliser coming into direct contact with
the roots.
If the tree is open rooted ( i.e. a deciduous tree in its dormant phase without soil around its roots )
trim off any broken or excessively long roots and place the tree on a mound of soil in the bottom of
the hole and spread the roots over the mound. This reduces air pockets forming and the tree sinking
over a period after planting.
Fill in the hole and firm. If drainage is poor in the area it may be advisable to have soil slightly
mounded up but ensuring that the soil is not above the original level in the pot or root control bag and
certainly not above any graft.
Apply fertiliser around the tree as appropriate and water in well. Install drippers or other watering
system at this time if that is part of your plan.
Prune the tree as required to commence the training and tie to the structure.
Stand back and admire your efforts and envisage the tree in 3 or 4 years time covering the wall or
fence with soft spring blossom or healthy fruit in the late summer or a blaze of multihued autumn
leaves!
16
V. Taking Shape
General Care
All trees and shrubs after planting require follow up watering, weeding , mulching and fertilising.
This is particularly so of espalier trained trees. Vigorous growth means that the tree will cover the
structure quickly, and if a fruit tree, will become fruitful in two or three years.
Fruit trees should be sprayed regularly, particularly during the years of training, as significant insect
or fungal attacks can affect the growth tips or cause loss of vigour in part of the tree resulting in the
design being upset.
Fertiliser should be applied at the beginning of Spring and in late Summer when a second growth
period occurs. Applications of foliar fertiliser such as Aquasol or Maxicrop are also advantageous as
these contain readily absorbable trace elements that may be missing from your soil.
Refer to your nursery, a general gardening book (eg Yates Garden Guide, 42nd Edition), or specialist
fruit book (eg Growing fruit in Australia, 5th Edition by Paul Baxter) for details of fertilisers and
sprays for your chosen tree.
Pruning
Pruning of espalier trained trees occurs through Spring and Summer and in Winter.
Forsake fruit for design in the first three years. If training does not occur in the growth period winter
pruning may be too late. The tree in early years will always want to revert to its natural upright
position. The end of horizontal branches will always tend upwards at the tip and will need retying at
intervals to the horizontal. Upward shoots that form from the horizontal will also need regular
pruning back to 4 leaves or they will take over the design.
The Spring and Summer prunings are generally to keep unwanted growth occurring in directions that
are not serving the design desired. This can often be achieved by nipping out growth tips with your
nails, thus forcing growth in the direction you want. Generally growth along the stems of the plant
should be kept to around 10 centimetres pruned to the nearest leaf or bud.
For fruit trees such pruning will result in a good crop of fruit close to the branches and thus avoid the
weight of the fruit breaking the limbs. In the case of ornamental trees it gives a mass of flowers
following the design of the trees. This is particularly spectacular on the diamond form Belgian Fence.
Winter pruning will usually also be light if the trees have
been regularly pruned in the growth season. It allows for
the design to be corrected where necessary and for
pruning to encourage the next layer or stage of the
chosen design as in Figure 24. Diseased or broken limbs
are removed at this time. Any suckers around the base of
the tree should also be removed. Where significant
pruning cuts are made, say 1 centimetre in diameter or
more, spray the cut with a preparation such as
"Steriprune" or paint the wound with a plastic house
paint. When moving from one tree to another it is
advisable to dip the secateurs in methylated spirits to
sterilise them and thus avoid any diseases being
transferred.
Figure 24 – Pruning for the next layer
17
When pruning do not leave a stub above the bud or dieback will occur. Additionally when using your
secateurs prune with the sharp blade against the bud and the blunt anvil against the portion of the tree
that will be discarded. This ensures a cleaner cut which will be aided also by keeping your secateurs
sharp.
Tying
As the branches grow along the desired direction of the structure supports they should be tied at
regular intervals usually about every 20 centimetres.
Where, however, branches are being trained horizontally it is desirable to leave the end 20
centimetres at any time untied as growth will be stimulated by allowing that portion to grow towards
the vertical. The principle of plant growth is generally that the more vertically the branch grows the
faster and woodier will be the growth whereas the more horizontal the angle the more fruitful will be
the branch.
The material used to tie the branches is
important. It should be soft and pliable. Narrow
string or inflexible twine is unsuitable. Old
stockings or grafting tape are good. If you have a
number of espalier trained trees, or other plants
to tie such as climbing rose, vines or tomatoes to
stakes, then you will probably justify the expense
of purchasing a tying machine. One such
machine called "Max Tapener" places a band of
soft plastic tape around the branch and
automatically staples and cuts it in the one
operation saving much tedious time in tying.
Figure 25 – Machine taping to wire
Ties should be inspected regularly as some trees
such as stone fruits grow rapidly and ties may
strangle the branches if not eased off or replaced.
Check in early Summer.
Ties should also be checked once a tree has
become fruitful as the weight of the fruit may
snap off the branch if not adequately supported
and also for protection against the buffeting of
wind.
Figure 26 – Beware to remove label string, and check ties regularly
18
VI. Maintenance and Fruitfulness
Tricks Of The Trade
i. Unequal Growth
Where one side of the design is growing faster than
another and becoming unbalanced this may be
remedied by raising the short branch more towards the
vertical and lowering the longer branch below the
horizontal as in Figure 27. If necessary use temporary
bamboo supports. A branch below the horizontal
should not be left in that state beyond several months in
case it loses vigour completely and dies.
Figure 27 – Remedying unequal growth
ii A Missing Branch in the Structure
At the end of the season it is sometimes annoying to find that a
branch in the design has failed to develop. All is not lost,
however.
As the sap begins to move in Spring cut a notch through the bark
to the wood above a bud positioned where the desired branch is
required. As the sap rising up the trunk or branch is impeded by
the cut it will put added vigour into the bud causing it to come
away and form the branch you required.
Figure 28 – Notching causing bud to come away
19
iii Grafting or Budding
Sometimes despite the notching technique a branch will
not form where you want it. The next measure, then, is to
insert a bud in the place desired on the branch or trunk.
This is often done by a "T" bud method in late Summer (in
Victoria, February) when the sap is flowing vigorously.
Water well before and after budding.
(i)
(ii)
(iii)
Figure 29 “T” budding
(i) Cut a T into the bark through the cambium layer and peel back the bark. If this is not possible it
may be necessary to use the “chip” bud method.
(ii) Cut a mature bud off a branch or trunk of the tree with a slither of wood attached. It may also
have a leaf attached which should be trimmed to a stalk. This will drop off in due course. Do not
allow the T cut or bud to dry during the operation.
(iii) Slide the bud into the T cut, close the bark onto the bud and tie up with grafting tape to exclude
the air. The bud should shoot in the following Spring when the tape should be removed.
Alternatively, a “chip” bud can be grafted on in Spring which requires a little more skill but is often
more successful.
Spring is also the time to graft other varieties of fruit ( apples on apples, pears on pears etc) onto
your tree. Care should be taken not to place a more vigorous growing variety along side a less
vigorous lest it take over the tree or cause the design to become lopsided.
The material to be grafted (scion) is collected in late winter and placed in a plastic bag in a
refrigerator until Spring.
The simplest grafting technique is the Chisel, Wedge or Cleft graft,
or alternatively the Splice or Whip and Tongue graft.
In all grafts the endeavour is to get the maximum matching of the
cambium layers (active growing area just under the bark) of the
scions and grafting stock possible by having both of a similar
diameter. Bind the graft with grafting tape to exclude the air and
keep bound until callusing takes place, usually around 6 weeks.
Remove the tape at that time.
To the novice grafting may seem to be an overly challenging
exercise. High success can be expected however if you follow the
simple principles that have been described. Make a trial graft one
Spring on a part of the tree that is not critical to your design.
Figure 30 - Chisel Graft (left), Splice Graft (right)
20
For full details of budding and grafting techniques, and additional grafting methods consult a
specialist grafting book such as “Grafting & Budding”, Second Edition 2008 by WJ Lewis & D McE
Alexander put out by CSIRO. There are also some useful video demonstrations that can be found on
the internet.
iii Altering the Design
If the design for whatever reason is not working out as you planned, or you have taken a shine to
another design, it is often possible to change the shape.
In this instance, rework the support structure for the amended design and undertake the pruning,
which might be significant, in Winter remembering to seal any wounds over 1 centimetre in diameter.
iv Root Pruning to Reduce Vigour
Sometimes it might be necessary to reduce the vigour of a tree, particularly if it has reached its full
size and has nowhere else to go.
The procedure is to cut the roots with a sharp spade at a radius of 60 cm around the tree. Water well
after such an exercise. It may be necessary to repeat this operation in several years time.
Excessive vigour in fruit trees to be planted in confined spaces can be controlled by planting a tree
that is on dwarfing stock.
Fruitfulness
Fruit trees vary in their fruiting habits but generally fruit on the previous year’s wood. Some trees
also, particularly certain varieties of apples, are biennial bearers and should be avoided if you are
seeking an assured crop each year.
A general rule to keep growth along the stem limited to 10 centimetres will encourage fruiting spurs
and buds.
Once the fruit has set on a tree in late Spring fruit should be thinned to allow 5 centimetres between
each piece. This avoids the problem of branches and spurs breaking and also maximises the size of
the fruit which may otherwise be rather small.
Another method of thinning fruit is to eliminate some of the fruiting buds and spurs in the Winter
pruning.
Water should be kept up to the trees during the fruit formation period with a mature tree in mid
Summer requiring around 8 litres per day. Failure to provide adequate water will result in small dry
fruit in the instance of fleshy stone fruit.
Regular fertilising, spraying, and weeding, besides maximising the growth and shaping of the tree,
will also promote fruit growth.
Trees requiring cross pollination will not fruit if an appropriate tree is not within bee flight distance
from it.
This is most assuredly achieved by planting the cross pollinator next to the tree or grafting a portion
of a cross pollinator onto the tree at the commencement of Spring.
All that is left now is to struggle inside with your bucket laden with fruit!
21
About the Author
John Taylor was born in Melbourne at the beginning of the War years
when the training of espaliered trees was enjoying a renaissance.
His first career was in civil engineering which he laid aside when he
entered the Anglican ministry in the mid 60's.
Although commencing his ministry in parish work, after a brief period as
a Priest in industry, he spent the next 24 years in directing child and
family welfare, his last position being CEO of Oz Child:Children
Australia. During that period he undertook graduate studies in
management.
Having a love for the land and the bush John chose horticulture as the counterfoil for the stresses of
his welfare responsibilities and also took some lessons in oil painting.
He attended a course in Small Farm Management when, with his family, he moved onto a 7 acre
farmlet in the Dandenongs. There in his “spare” time he developed a commercial blueberry plantation
and was an active member on the executive of the Blueberry Growers' Association. The Knoxfield
Horticulture Station often gave lectures to the blueberry growers, having introduced and developed
blueberries for Australian use.
On moving to Lilydale, and subsequently to Mt Evelyn, John developed a hobby nursery,
“Hortisculpture”, training fruit and ornamental trees for the nursery and landscape trade.
In 1995, leaving welfare and concluding his nursery actrivity, John undertook one last parish in
Tasmania.
Returning to the mainland John and his wife retired to Gippsland on 51/2 acres where again he
planted blueberries.
Back in Melbourne, besides now being a serious artist and sculptor, John has assisted in the planning
and maintenance of fruit cage plantings.
John has committed his experience of espaliers to print hoping that this book will give readers the
confidence and satisfaction of training their own trees and literally enjoying the fruit of their labours.
22