Lightweight, Designer Lines Get Thumbs-up From

Studded Jewellery
Lightweight, Designer Lines
Get Thumbs-up From Buyers
E
xhibitors at the studded jewellery pavilion
reported average to good response at the show.
The scene stealers at Signature this year were earrings,
particularly the innumerable chand baalis (crescentshaped danglers), stylized jhumkis, cocktail rings, and
lightweight pendant and necklace sets in gold and
diamonds.
Naman Kala, director, Kinu Baba Jewellery, Jaipur,
said that his company was a first-time participant at
Signature and they received a good number of buyers
from Mumbai, Delhi and Punjab. The firm introduced
its designer 14-karat diamond and polki collection
without using lac to reduce price points and also help
customers with the exact product disclosure in terms of
gold weight and gemstone carats. Kala informed that
they use both traditional and CAD/CAM concepts to
develop designs with interesting fusion formats. The
firm got plenty of enquires for its statement chand
baalis in the range of Rs.3 to Rs.5 lakh, and cocktail
rings from Rs.40,000 to Rs.1 lakh.
Sensuel, another Signature debutant, got ample
queries for its new collections, especially the mesh
pendant sets. Vishal Jain, partner of Sensuel, informed
that they received orders from Mumbai, Pune,
Bangalore and Delhi for their lightweight collection.
“The mesh chains are made in-house and look large
in form, costing between Rs.50,000 and Rs.1.25 lakh.
They can be worn with our elaborate diamond and
gem-set pendants as well. Our new range of lightweight
necklace sets with 7 to 8 carats of diamonds are also
popular. They look grand with gemstone accents and
are price-competitive.”
Chand baalis, the latest rage among Bollywood
stars and fashionistas, is another product category that
sold like hot cakes. Known for exceptional jewellery
pieces that incorporate gold, pearls, uncut and full cut
Chand baalis by Nine Jewellery
diamonds and gemstones, Shah Gems of Jaipur saw
buyers from Chennai, Bangalore, Hyderabad, Kolkata,
Mumbai, Delhi and Chandigarh clamour for their
designer chand baalis priced between Rs.1.40 lakh
and Rs.2.25 lakh. Shashwat Shah of Shah Gems felt
that the show was slow as compared with last year, but
they were not complaining. “We are seeing our regular
clients who are buying, but there are no new walk-ins
at the show this time. Our line-up of 14- and 18-karat
(continued on page 2)
Cover Story
Gem-set danglers by Gold Roof.
(continued from page 1)
jewellery studded with uncut and full cut diamonds is
selling well as the overall cost of the set reduces by as
much as 40%. For layering the jewellery sets, we use a
lot of fresh water seed pearls as they are trending these
days. This is our fourth year at the show and we are
happy with the format and business generated.”
Nine Jewellery of Jaipur, too, reported fantastic sales
of chand baalis. The firm’s partner Sandeep Sethi feels
that the format of Signature is conducive for business
as it gives him ample time to interact with his buyers.
“During the IIJS, we tend to miss out prospective
buyers as the footfalls are heavy. At this show, we could
attend to all the buyers from across India, who among
other jewellery lines, preferred the crescent-shaped
danglers ranging from Rs.1 lakh to Rs.2.5 lakh.”
Two new collections – Kairee and Jhoomar –
adorned the booth of Sanskriti, a Mumbai-based
brand. Karan Garodia, the firm’s partner, reported
that he had received clients from Chandigarh to
Chennai, who appreciated the paisley motifs of the
Kairee line and the stylized chandelier jhoomars
outfitted with fine gemstones and diamonds. Bracelets
ranging from Rs.50,000 to Rs.10 lakh received a good
response, according to Garodia. “We have also added
new patterns in our previous collections Jharokha,
Devtaa and Di Zafiro, and all of them have received
a favourable response. We are happy with the show.”
Head designer Vishvesh Zaveri of Gold Roof,
Ahmedabad, reported that the show was slack for
their company. “We make fusion jewellery with
diamonds and natural emeralds and rubies and cater
to B2B markets in South India and Maharashtra.
I feel that regular buyers are not in the mood for
buying jewellery.”
Second-time
participant
Kuldeep
Singhi
Shekhawat of DWS Jewellery felt that the show was
average. Gold-plated silver earrings in the range of
Rs.1,000 to Rs.1,50,000 were the fast-moving items.
They also received a good response for their trendy
broad cuffs from clients based in Mumbai, Bangalore
and Hyderabad.
On the other hand, Shenazz Amarnani, proprietor
of Mirella, Mumbai, had a great show. Their designer
collections that employ VVS-FG diamonds and
different gold alloys from Hong Kong, starts from
Rs.40,000 upward. “What works in our favour is good
designs and fine finishing that adds brownie points
to our lightweight lines. This year we got many new
clients from Bangalore and Mumbai.”
Pankaj Bhandari of Bhandari Gold, Mumbai, said
that he was extremely happy with the show. “Although
sales are less compared to last year, I am satisfied with
the response keeping in mind the current market
conditions,” said Bhandari, laying emphasis on retailers’
demand for new concepts. “Earrings weighing 25 gm
accented with uncut diamonds, rubies and pearls as
per the design demands as well as chandelier earrings
in gold are doing well.” Bhandari was also happy
with the sales he was getting through his recently
introduced mobile and tablet application for his B2B
clients. Available to all, clients would need a username
and a password to access his entire inventory on the
app, facilitating better inventory management as well
as making it convenient for retailers to view his stock
and place orders.
Sunaina Jain of Adore Jewels said that she received
enquiries from Mumbai, Bangalore and Pune. One of
her collections that re-fashioned tribal silver jewellery
was already sold out. She also received orders for her
handmade stone-studded earrings and necklaces.
Gold Shines At Signature
T
he plain gold section at Signature was abuzz
with retailers from across India busy placing
orders for gold jewellery. Most exhibitors were
happy with the volume of gold jewellery traded
over the first three days of the show. Despite
the gloomy market conditions, retailers placed
quantitative orders for lightweight gold jewellery.
Haresh Pahuja chairman and CEO of
Itan Jewels described the show in one word:
“Fantastic”. Pahuja sold out most of his
collections on the first two days to buyers from
the northern, central and western regions of
India and some retailers from Dubai and the US.
Known for its machine and handmade 22-karat
gold bangles and manchettes (broad kadas),
the company showcased a gamut of inventory.
Some of the openwork designer kadas weighing
between 120 gm and 180 gm were instant hits.
“We have had a superb show,” exclaimed
Bhairavi Shah, head designer of Bhavesh Jewellers,
Mumbai. “We already have established clients in
the South, but this year, we met new clients from
the north and the east.” Their high-end buyers
preferred to buy 22-karat necklace sets between
100 gm and 400 gm with light antique finish,
while small-time retailers ordered sets between 40
gm and 80 gm. The hottest selling items at their
booth were textured bead necklaces weighing an
average of 70 grams.
In an endeavour to bring in lighter gold
products, Krown Jewels showcased 22-karat
manchettes weighing from 30 gm to 50 gm.
Hardik Jagda of Krown stated that their regular
clients liked their new range of rhodium-plated
gold kadas with super chic ‘penta glow’ motifs.
Another category that did well was floral chokers
weighing as low as 60 gm to 120 gm, and
geometric gold bibs weighing between 35 gm
and 60 gm.
Viraj Jewels deals primarily in mangalsutras
and received a good response at the show.
2
Broad bracelet
by Itan Jewels.
“Apart from our mangalsutras, we have also
introduced necklaces with coloured beads. I have
mangalsutras from 3 grams to 100 grams and
have received orders across the board.” He mainly
received visitors from Gujarat, Maharashtra and
southern India.
Parag Bohra of Ratlan Jewellers said that their
gajra work jewellery made up of tiny gold beads
was popular. “Bangles from 60 grams to 600
grams and lightweight pendant sets have done
extremely. Since this particular type of work is
worn mainly by Marwaris, we got many buyers
from Rajasthan as well as other areas that have a
predominant Marwari population.”
S. Suresh of Krizz Jewellery Manufacturing
said, “Signature has evolved as a niche show.
We have seen a few but quality buyers who have
placed large orders. Lightweight gold jewellery
has been popular this year. Rings weighing 5
grams and necklace sets between 20 grams and
30 grams have done well. We have recently taken
over the Chennai-based brand, Reva, and are
showcasing hollow gold bracelets for men and
women weighing as little as 20 grams. We have so
far received buyers from Gujarat, northern India
and Madhya Pradesh.”
Yogendra Jain of SK Jewellers has had a
fantastic run at Signature 2014. “Every year, the
clients want to see new products with good quality
finish and design. About 70% of the visitors
are our old clients, while 30% of them are new
clients. Currently, I am focussing on domestic
sales and I am not entertaining export-oriented
clients. With the current gold restrictions we are
facing a problem which is why we have decided
not to burden ourselves anymore and have taken
orders only as per our production capacity.”
First-time participant Sanjay Shah, partner,
Jewel Cast, is happy with the response from the
show. Specialising in 22-karat temple jewellery,
he received enquiries for his heavy jewellery and
interacted with buyers from across the nation.
Lalit Kothari, partner, Siletta Gold feels that
sales this year have outdone sales of the previous
year. At the show, he met new customers from
Dubai as well as retailers from the country,
especially from the South. Specialising in 22-karat
plain gold jewellery, Kothari has received orders for
jewellery sets between 70 grams and 110 grams.
Arham Jewellers from Mumbai is famous for
its filigreed jewellery with a touch of enamelling
and use of rubies and emeralds. Proprietor Kapil
Bapna revealed, “Serious buying did happen
and we did get orders from Chennai, Pune and
Ahmedabad, but overall, the sentiment is not so
strong. I would say there was a drop of 10-15%
in terms of buying, but that was expected. The
scenario is tough and we are eagerly awaiting a
change in gold policies.”
Editorial, Design and Production
www.spentamultimedia.com
Brand Watch
Gold
Jewellery
Flatter
Your Wrists
A
mbulal Motiram & Sons of Mumbai introduces its new collection of machinemade 22-karat gold bangles with rhodium plating in attractive designs. Light and
trendy, these bangles will spruce up any attire. Wear them to work or to an evening out
– the bangles will shine through any occasion.
SIGNATURE
CLUB
Two-tone
T
Accents
he new collection of broad bangles crafted in 22-karat yellow
gold by Oro of Raia Jewels Pvt. Ltd. is highlighted with rhodium
accents. Inspired by spring, the new range uses textures and enamelling
to enhance the floral pattern in each bangle. Emphasising on the
symmetry of the design, each piece is a manufacturing marvel. Raia is
known for its expertise in crafting machine-made bangles.
SIGNATURE
CLUB
Pendant
Penchant
U
ni-Design showcases innovative pendants that can take you from day to
night. Keeping the latest trends in mind, the collection has it all. Featured
here is a paisley tassel pendant, a geometric diamond-studded pendant, a
brushed rose gold pendant and a diamond pendant with a burst of colour.
Whatever your style, Uni-Design has something for everyone.
4
Brand Watch
Floral
Indulgence
Studded
Jewellery
P
ratharv, an R.P. Jewels enterprise by Pooja Vaswani, specialises in exquisite
diamond and gemstone jewellery. Showcasing its creative strength at
Signature 2014, Pratharv will display floral rings, necklaces and pendants
studded with diamonds and colour stones. The jewellery mimics the infinite
shades of nature to perfection.
Diamond
Sparklers
A
n impressive diamond fare is presented by Dass Diamond Jewelry
of Mumbai at Signature. Known for its exquisite handmade
diamond jewellery, Dass Diamond presents a stunning watch encrusted
with yellow sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds with an intricate
openwork gold bangle. Also featured here is a unique diamond and
emerald paisley bangle that can dress up any outfit.
Studded
Jewellery
Fine
Lines
V
ara Jewels showcases flattering bangles for your wrists at Signature 2014. Set
in yellow gold and accented with diamonds and colour stones, the bangles
are perfect accessories to flatter your wrists. Vara Jewels also showcases a vast
range of pendants that are studded with diamonds and coloured stones, and are
patterned for a contemporary woman who loves a dash of ethnicity.
6
Studded
Jewellery
Brand Watch
Ethnic
Vibe
K
Gold
Jewellery
nown for its attractive traditional and antique gold jewellery,
Designer Jewels unveils their latest range of necklace and pendant
sets at the show. Featured here is a traditionally designed gold necklace
that is adorned with nakashi work and bejewelled with colour stones. Pair
it with the matching jhumkis to get a touch of opulence.
Diamond
Elegance
Studded
Jewellery
K
arma Jewels, a unit of Kulthiaa Jewel (P) Ltd., fuses ethnic and
contemporary styles to showcase unique pieces. Diamonds, precious
and semi-precious stones come together to create jewellery that is bold
and stylish. Featured here is a marquise and pear diamond-studded
bracelet crafted in 18-karat gold; attractive diamond and ruby jhumkis;
and a royal bridal choker from their Fusion Artistry collection.
Fab
Fusion
L
ovely Gems displays fine craftsmanship with its latest collection
of handmade studded gold jewellery. Blending modern concepts
with traditional motifs, the fusion collection encompasses polkis and
diamonds, sapphires, rubies and pearls. These alluring jewels perfectly
balance design and aesthetics with an affordable price tag.
Studded
Jewellery
7
Design Corner
‘We Aim To Do
Better Than Last Year’
Gaurav Jagwani, Director of Saiesha
Jewellery Pvt. Ltd continues to be
optimistic about the future of the jewellery
industry and speaks about the importance
of creating jewellery that is trendy and
fashionable yet functional.
Tell us more about your brand.
Saiesha Jewellery is primarily a
fashionable design-centric diamond
jewellery manufacturing company that
specialises in bracelets and earrings.
Gaurav Jagwani
Director of Saiesha Jewellery Pvt. Ltd
Will you be showcasing any new
collections at Signature 2014?
At Signature, we will be launching
13 new collections. These collections
include a wide array of themes including
traditional, modern, diamond, polki
and classic jewellery that will appeal to
the masses.
What are the popular jewellery items
at the moment?
Bracelets and earrings are the current
fast-moving favourites and they happen
to be our speciality.
How are you coping with the gold
deficit?
Our business ideas and concepts
haven’t changed. We continue to make
functional jewellery for the modern
woman.
Diamonds accented with coloured
stones is the latest trend. Please
comment.
Everyone wants jewellery that is stylish
and chic. Today, even the traditional
segment, which accounts for a sizable
share of the market, is seeking change.
Gem-studded jewellery is eye-catching
and more appealing particularly in the
tough economic times as compared
to only diamond-studded jewellery,
because it offers more value for money.
What is the most popular precious
stone at the moment?
It differs from person to person, but
emeralds are a rage at the moment.
What are your expectations for
Signature 2014?
Frankly, the market environment
hasn’t been very positive over the last
six months or so. However, there is
great potential and there are signs of
improvement. We always aim to do
better than the previous year. This year is
no different despite the current market
conditions.
8
‘There’s No Compromise
On Design’
Mansukh Kothari, proprietor of Vasupati
Jewellers, Mumbai, is well-known for
utilising traditional techniques like filigree,
rawa and hammering in his 22-karat gold
jewellery lines. Keeping pace with the times,
Kothari’s accomplished in-house design team
prepares in advance to present new lines yearon-year for Signature.
What new ideas have you come up with
this time for Signature?
This year, we have eulogised the colourful
butterfly in our collection. We have used
butterfly motifs against the backdrop of dense
foliage. The butterflies are finely enamelled
with pastel shades. I am sure, this will resonate Mansukh Kothari
Proprietor of Vasupati Jewellers, Mumbai
well with the modern age woman. The fusion
jewellery crafted in 22-karat gold consists of
necklace sets (60-80 grams in weight), pendant sets (30-40 grams), chokers (up to
100 grams), bangles and kadas (40-60 grams).
You have not compromised on gold
usage at a time when the raw material
is difficult to procure.
The Indian market is not doing well in
terms of jewellery sales. It is reported
that sales across India have plummeted
between 20% and 40%. Importing
gold for local consumption has become
a “headache” for us manufacturers.
However, we have not compromised
on gold usage even though we
manufacturers have to a pay a premium
for procuring raw gold.
I don’t believe in a half-hearted
approach; I invest money in design
research to come up with something timeless.
For this collection, we started work last
September. And even if we do use less gold in
a particular collection, we add value by upping
the design quotient like we did with our recent
collection that was was unveiled two months ago.
Can you tell us more about it?
It is an interesting concept, and again we had
to research and plan the line to bring newness
to it. We incorporated a special bead stringing
technique – in layman’s parlance, weaving net
– to string carved and plain beads of rubies,
emeralds, blue sapphires, and rhodolites
into necklaces that featured kundan-meena
pendants and side clasps. At times, the beads
were interspersed with textured gold beads
that were bordered with diamonds. The look
that we achieved was unique and offered more
bang for the buck. I have new additions in this
line as well at the show.
Why is Signature such a big draw?
This show gives us the luxury to spend time with our serious clients and explain
to them the intricacies of the designs, the concept and the stories that we intend
to tell through our pieces. Signature is a premium show and draws top retailers
from India. I am therefore pinning my hopes on this exclusive show and am
expecting an average to good turnout which, in turn, will boost jewellery sales.
Interview Of The Day
‘We Are Optimistic
About The Domestic Growth Rate’
Costantino Papadimitriou, Head of Design at Forevermark by De Beers, who
visited the Signature Show on day one speaks about the popular design trends in
India and abroad.
Is this your first time at the Signature show? What do you think about the
show in terms of design aesthetics?
This is my second time at Signature, and I think the show is full of beautiful
jewellery. There are a lot of lovely designs which are targeted to the
Indian market.
Could you tell us about one
trend that never goes out of
fashion?
Classic jewellery never goes out
of fashion. Simple pendants
and a pair of stud earrings
with large sized diamonds have
always been popular. Classic
pieces can be worn on a daily
basis for work and not just on
weddings or other occasions.
Elegant rings with simple
designs have always been in
trend and at the same time they
also make a statement.
Currently, what are the most
popular designs in India and
overseas?
The Indian customer market
is very different from the
global market. Here, women
prefer wearing mangalsutras
and broad bangles. But in
international markets, women
prefer to wear simple jewellery
Costantino Papadimitriou
Head of Design at Forevermark
like small pendants and rings on a daily basis; they do not go for opulent
or overly designed jewellery. The Forevermark Encordia and Cornerstones
collections are quite popular in India, while globally, the Forevermark
Millemoi collection is doing well.
Tell us more about the Forevermark trend book – has it been released yet?
How does it help the retail market?
The Forevermark trend book is created especially for Forevermark jewellers, as
it gives them a direction on the global design trends and jewellery inspirations.
This book is being launched in India and globally and will be available only to
Forevermark Authorised Jewellers. We believe strongly in creating partnerships
and design is one of the key areas where we add value to our Forevermark
partners.
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