Where do the zebra go?
Transcription
Where do the zebra go?
EE FR Traveller’s Friend Botswana Mozambique Namibia Zambia Zimbabwe I www.zambezitraveller.com MAR APR MAY 2013 HISTORY CONSERVATION Where do the zebra go? 03 Tete’s historic forts Here today and gone tomorrow? Guides and travellers have long observed large mammal species come and go from their regular haunts with the seasons. But where do they go? The answers are going to surprise many. www.elephantswithoutborders.org lephants Without Borders has released preliminary research findings which show zebra migrating over staggering distances in Botswana, including what may well be the longest transboundary mammal migration in southern Africa. EWB recently expanded its work to include large herbivores. The major emphasis of this new research is to provide meaningful data to conservationists in the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier region, specifically on the ecology of wildlife species for which there is currently limited or no information. One segment of this initiative includes studying the zebra populations on the western floodplains of Botswana’s Chobe River, whose numbers appear to be increasing. EWB’s dry season aerial surveys along the Chobe floodplains estimate the population to number approximately 3000 zebra. The seasonal movements of these zebra were unknown, so EWB deployed three satellite collars on zebra in August 2012 to map their seasonal dispersal. During the dry season, the zebra aggregated along the Chobe floodplains. In October, they crossed the Chobe River, moving 15 kms north into Namibia’s Caprivi Strip. When the rains started in early December, the zebra moved south to the interior of Chobe National Park. Guides and scientists speculated this zebra population migrated west to the Linyanti or perhaps to the Savuti Marsh during the rains. Surprisingly, the three collared zebra moved to neither Linyanti or Savuti. Two zebra moved southeast towards the Seloko Plains region, while the third trekked a remarkable 240 kms in a straight line south to Nxai Pan National Park. This new cross-border migration route has never before been mapped. It is a major conservation finding at a time when long distance movements are being lost around the world. Farming and human disturbance may compromise the route, and an effort to conserve the zebras’ small A NIM A L SCIENCE 21 A confusion of stripes When it comes to the zebra’s stripes, it’s not all black and white… CH A RIT Y 43 Hell and High Water Dangerous fundraising tasks in the name of Comic Relief REGULARS This photo was taken by tourist Duncan Armour, who was in Chobe on a photographic safari from the UK. He wrote to EWB asking about this zebra. A follower of EWB on Facebook, when reading about these new discoveries was really excited that this zebra was one of the ones that moved to Nxai Pan dry season refuge along the Chobe River is urgent. This type of finding will inspire conservationists to continue with their commit- EXPERIENCE THE WONDER. www.suninternational.com Fascinating historic monuments to be seen in Tete city PHOTO: DUNCAN ARMOUR KELLY LANDEN Issue 12 ment to protect such increasingly rare events as part of Botswana’s rich and unique biological heritage. Funding for this project was provided by the Paul G Allen Family Foundation with the support of the Botswana Department of Wildlife and National Parks. 03 Cahora Bassa & Tete, Mozambique 09 Chobe, Botswana 13 Okavango, Botswana 14 Harare Zimbabwe 15 Kariba & Middle Zambezi, Zambia and Zimbabwe 22 Bulawayo, Zimbabwe 23 Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe 33 Hwange, Zimbabwe 36 Kafue, Zambia 37 Livingstone, Zambia 46 Luwangwa, Zambia INSIDE 02 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend WELCOME TRANSFRONTIER PARKS New wings over Western Zambia ALAN SPARROW he Zambian Minister of Tourism and Arts, Sylvia T Masebo MP, officially opened the Ngonye Falls Partnership Park in August 2012. On 26 February this year the minister flew in to Ngonye Falls accompanied by senior government officials and the CEO of the Peace Parks Foundation, W Myburgh. Their mission was to formally receive the donation of a Bat Hawk microlight aircraft to be based at Ngonye Falls. The donation also provided for an aircraft hangar. The donors are Mr Neville and Mrs Pamela Isdell. Mr and Mrs Isdell were present at the ceremony to hand over the aircraft. The Minister thanked Mr and Mrs Isdell for their generous donation and the Peace Parks Foundation for facilitating it. PHOTOS: TOM VARLEY www.peaceparks.org Mr Errol Pietersen will fly the Bat Hawk. Pietersen is based at the Ngonye falls and provides technical support to the senior staff of the Zambia Wildlife Authority in charge of the Sioma Ngwezi National Park FACT file The Bat Hawk will be a major boost to the management of the Sioma Ngwezi National Park, assisting authorities to monitor human wildlife conflict in the community areas surrounding the park, where crop raiding by elephant is a major threat to the food security of rural farmers. The microlight will be flown by Mr Errol Pietersen who is funded by the Peace Parks Foundation to provide technical support to the Zambia Wildlife Authority field officers at Sioma Ngwezi . The Peace Parks Foundation has worked closely with Mrs Pamela Isdell, Mr Neville Isdell, The Honourable Minister Of Tourism and Arts Mrs Sylvia T Masebo Mp, and Mr Werner Myburgh, CEO Of The Peace Parks Foundation the Zambian government to develop the Zambian component of the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (Kaza TFCA). The Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy is now establishing a wildlife sanctuary on the Simalaha floodplains and will translocate wildlife into the protected sanctuary in the winter of 2013, with initial animals being donated by the Zambia Wildlife Authority. The Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy is an exciting new model of communitydriven conservation that will Transboundary zebra movements Elephants Without Borders (EWB) has released preliminary research findings which show zebra migrating over staggering distances in Botswana, including what may well be the longest transboundary mammal migration in southern Africa. The importance of transfrontier parks is further emphasized by these exciting findings. Dr Mike Chase, director for Elephants Without Borders, illustrates the routes these Zebra are taking with this map. Recent Peace Park Foundation project successes • The South African College for Tourism which in 2012 won the Mail and Guardian’s ‘Investing in the Future of Education Award.’ The Peace Parks Foundation also sponsors the South African Wildlife College which trains field rangers and park managers from all over southern Africa. The MAVA Foundation for Nature is supporting the costs of training over the next three years. The college also trains professional guides for TFCAs in the region. • The Greater Mapungubwe TFCA (Botswana/ South Africa/ Zimbabwe) has been established by the three governments with each phase being facilitated by the Peace Parks Foundation. In September 2012 an aerial survey of elephant populations in the develop the wildlife conservancy along similar lines to the community wildlife conservancies that have been a success story in Namibia and Botswana. The Peace Parks Foundation enjoys the support of international public funders, financial institutions and Central Limpopo River Valley was carried out. • In Mozambique the Maputo Special Reserve (Mozambique) and Tembe Elephant Park (South Africa) have been rehabilitated. In September 2012 an aerial survey showed movement of elephant between the two parks, across borders. • Malawi/ Zambia TFCAs: In 2012 the two governments agreed on the management of the Nyika TFCA which links the Nyika Plateau across borders and has facilitated cross-border movement of elephant. • The Tracker Academy in South Africa is supported by the Peace Parks Foundation. Field rangers from transfrontier parks are trained in tracking skills. individuals that support the concept of linking conservation areas across international borders to incorporate entire biomes of sufficient size to restore the former ranges of key species such as elephant, and to reconnect the shared cultures of local communities. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend 2013 MAR APR MAY 03 Mozambique CAHORA BASSA & TETE Conservation – Community – Wildlife – World Heritage – History – Tourism HISTORY Tete’s historic forts www.mozambiquemosaic.com he arrival of the Portuguese in Africa at the close of the 15th century brought about a series of defensive fortifications along the Mozambique coast and up the Zambezi valley. Examples of this may be found on Mozambique Island, on Ibo Island, at Sena and in Tete. The constructions were designed to shock and awe local inhabitants – symbols of power – for conquest and domination. But whilst the architectural designs were Portuguese, these edifices were built with the sweat riod 1575-1576 at a time when the Portuguese were consolidating their presence in the Zambezi Valley. This fortification was built at the initiative of Capitãogeneral Caetano de Melo e Castro (1682-1686). In 19111912, the then governor of Tete sought to demolish the fort but it was instead converted into a warehouse and garage. The walls of the building were re-built in 1942 and it is still used for business purposes today. It is located close to the banks of the Zambezi adjacent to the bridge. The plaque, now at the Maputo fort museum, commemorates the opening of warehouses at Tete in the 18th century. and toil of African labour. Most of these buildings – some over 400 years old – are remarkable for their homogeneity. Through the centuries the builders used the same basic methods and locally available materials – with contemporary Portuguese masonry techniques. Fort of São Tiago Maior do Tete - Fortaleza do Tete Tete was the site of a vibrant seasonal market place, or feira, where coastal traders traded goods with the inland state of Monomotapa. Although first occupied by the Portuguese in 1530, it only achieved the status of a town in 1763. The fortification that has become known as São Tiago Maior do Tete was constructed in the pe- Forte de D. Luis This fort was built between Park Inn Hotel Rio Tinto Sign Tete Rd Standard Bank Part of the Port of Sao Tiago Maior do Tete wall facing the Zambezi River, and the plaque commemorating the opening of the warehouse now at the Maputo Fort Museum Housing Dirt road leading to Park Inn Hotel and Rio Tinto Project Office Zambia Rd Tete 1835-1836 on the highest point of Tete and offers a commanding view of the surrounding area. It was constructed in classical colonial military architecture with ramparts for canon placement and semi-circular bastions at each corner. The fort is neglected and sections of walling have collapsed. PHOTO: HENRIK ELLERT HENRIK ELLERT PHOTO: GIGI GUIMBEAU Henrik Ellert is an ethnographic and historical researcher and writer. Interest in art and ethnography has proven invaluable in Ellert’s professional career in private sector development work in Africa. The following excerpts will be published in Mocambique Mosaic due later in 2013. BSI STEEL Kitoko Trading Malawi Rd Alfandega Ri Tinto Project Office Enquire about cash discounts for bulk steel orders CUTTING AND BENDING STRUCTURAL STEEL CUSTOM MADE ROOF SHEETING PLATES AND SHEETS REINFORCING BARS CUTTING AND GRINDING MEDIA WELDED MESH WELDING RODS ANGLES "#"&" % ! ("!#"&%%& #! "#"#$&''% ! "#!"%%& #! CLM Transport Lda specialises in the transport of containerised and dry bulk cargoes throughout South Africa, Zimbabwe, Mozambique, Zambia and Malawi. We pride ourselves in building strong relationships and being your business partner rather than your supplier. Brendan: + 258 82 509 3930 | Thom: + 258 82 305 7711 Email: [email protected] www.clmtransport.com 04 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend CAHORA BASSA & TETE COMMUNITY Tete: a melting pot of colour Given the city’s location at the crossroads between Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe, and featuring one of Mozambique’s few bridges spanning the Zambezi River, travellers and traders are nothing new in Tete. But with the region’s recent coal mining boom the number of expatriates has exploded, and they are building homes and establishing businesses. On the last count, there were at least 56 different nationalities represented in the city. While there are challenges associated with such dynamic demographic shifts, it is impossible to overlook the richness of world cultures and languages filling the once small and dusty town. Following is a sample of the city’s increasingly diverse population. GIGI GUIMBEAU a town to a city since my arrival, and it is amazing to see the immense changes. While the temperatures here are sometimes difficult, and malaria is always a threat, the kindness of the citizens more than makes up for the challenges. Tete is a stunning town with old world charm, and has plenty to explore on a day off.’ Dan Tanachito ‘Originally hailing from Bangkok, I left Thailand at age 16 and set off on a colourful life abroad. After spending over a decade in Saudi Arabia, I went on to work for Mitsubishi in Kyoto, Japan and the Phillbeach Hotel in London, England. I made my first foray into the mining industry in 1995, moving back to Bangkok after nearly twenty years away. Following a brief stint in Dubai and my subsequent return to Thailand, I moved to Africa in 2006 after receiving a job offer from ESCOM’s mining division in South Africa. I relocated to Tete in 2011, and presently work in Eqstra’s drilling and blasting department at the Rio Tinto Benga coal mine. Aside from an annual trip to Bangkok to visit my family, I spend the whole year in Mozambique. Tete has quickly grown from Luciana Faria ‘As a Brazilian woman living with my family in Belo Horizonte, Brazil, I never imagined moving to Mozambique. However, when my husband, who worked for Vale, was invited to relocate to Tete in July 2011, we decided to move with our daughter, Giovana, and seek new experiences abroad. Our family wasn’t sure what to expect in Tete, but we see great opportunities due to the city’s rapid growth. We’ve witnessed many changes; new construction, people planting gardens, newly painted stores, and less unused space along the improved highway. Many have commented on the good timing of our arrival, following the opening of the VIP Supermarket and several restaurants. I work at a Mozambican company, and I’m very happy with the position. Giovana loves studying at the Zambezi Junior School, and while we worried about her education before moving, her English and mathematics skills have improved quickly. We hope to spend the next eight to ten years abroad, continuing to grow in our perspectives and world views. Our family tries to travel regularly, discovering new countries rather than returning to Brazil, and this has been rewarding. We look forward to continued growth and life in the city!’ Nick & Marlene Boyd ‘My wife and I are missionaries in Tete. Before moving here my wife was an immigration paralegal in San Francisco, California, studying to be a fashion designer with a dream of having her own clothing line and living in Paris or Italy. I was a project superintendent for a multi-million dollar construction company in Tuscaloosa, Alabama. Marlene moved to Tete in 2010 and began working with orphaned children who live on the streets. I came to Tete for the first time in August of 2011 to do a missions outreach. Prior to arriving in Tete I had never met Marlene. We fell in love with each other as well as these precious boys that live on the streets. We married in America and moved to Tete to make it our home in February of 2012. Tim Albone ‘With its reputation as one of the fastest growing cities in Africa it is not surprising that Tete draws people from all over the world. Any trip to the VIP Supermarket in the city will throw up a number of different languages and accents, all of which will have their own stories of how they ended up here. My own story started in England, where I was Tete appears to have doubled in size during the 23 months since my arrival, and the city’s potential as a mining supplier and logistics centre has firmly established its place on the map during that time We are currently building an orphanage called Shekinah Healing Home in the village Mpadue. We have a dream to teach these boys different trades and show them that they have a future, hope and a purpose in this world so they can become respectable, honourable men in this growing society.’ born. I left the UK shortly after and have been on the road ever since. I spent my childhood, until I was 15, in Hong Kong and have spent time working in Afghanistan, Iraq and Sierra Leone. Travel was natural and when the job offer in Tete came up I jumped at it. I do sometimes struggle with the heat but it’s noth- ing a cold 2M or a boat trip down the Zambezi can’t solve. What I enjoy most about Tete is the vibrancy and the energy. I’m here setting up Mulitani, a secure housing complex on the Zambezi River, and being a part of the development of the city is very exciting. Working and living in Tete you get a real sense that this is a city on the move’ Pedro Goncalves ‘Born in Livingstone, Zambia, I left Africa in 1986 at age 28, and spent the next twenty years with my family in England. Inspired by my reading of east Africa and curious about the region, I finally returned to the continent in 2008, accepting a position as a financial controller with a Canadian drilling company in Mwanza, Tanzania. The same company offered me a position in Mozambique in 2011, and my Portuguese parentage, along with years spent in the coffee belt of Angola, THE SOLUTION YOU CAN TRUST “To save the earth and its biodiversity is an imperative. It is an ethical duty, a moral obligation.” H.E. Armando Emilio Guebuza, 21st june 2012. 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The region’s rich history has seen periods of both decline and growth, and significant mining successes have been instrumental in Mozambique’s fast pace of development in recent years. Tete, like many other towns whose fortunes and conditions have tested the population, is a magnet for interesting characters, and I have been fortunate to live here and meet many of them.’ Pedro Pinto ‘I grew up in Porto, Portugal, known to many as the birthplace of port wine, and I initially found local employment after finishing my studies. After receiving an offer to work in Angola, which had been a Portuguese colony, I spent about two-and-a-half years in the southern African nation. I first heard about the mining boom in Tete near the end of 2010, and after learning more about the growing opportunities, I relocated to Mozambique on the second day of the New Year. After initially accepting a position with a Portuguese-owned, Mozambican company, a South African mining company invited me to work with them, and I made the change to my current position. building warehouses for rent, I would have laughed. Nonetheless here I am in the 50°C heat of Tete, doing just that. For a European, it is quite a change to come from the orderly old continent to this new Africa. I guess being Italian eased the culture shock just a It is not only that Mozambique’s economy is booming, but there are also fewer constrictions to enterprise. The old continent seems suffocated in red tape, age-old privileges and pessimism Despite its reputation, Tete isn’t a bad place to live, and I see improvements almost daily. At the time of my arrival, there were very few restaurants or supermarkets, but now everything is available on both sides of town. I like being able to visit nice establishments on the Moatize side of the river, without having to cross the bridge into the city. While Tete still has a way to go, I think it will one day be a very nice place to live.’ Giovanni Sforza ‘If someone had told me a couple years ago that I would end up in Tete bit. Many people take traffic rules more like guidelines than rules here, just like home. There are also many similarities between Mozambique’s and Italy’s bureaucracies. In fact, having spoken to some other Italians who do business both at home and in Mozambique, I am surprised to hear that everything is easier to do here. It is not only that Mozambique’s economy is booming, but there are also fewer constrictions to enterprise. The old continent seems suffocated in red tape, age-old privileges and pessimism. Here, despite the many challenges, there is a young, optimistic vibe; one can really feel that 7% GDP growth in everyday life. Every time I leave Tete for more than a few days and return, I seem to notice new buildings popping out from nowhere, and it is great to be part of it.’ PHOTO: GIGI GUIMBEAU and character Frank von Habsburg offers business advice Secure your Mozambique investment FRANK VON HABSBURG www.cpi.co.mz www.prointelafrica.com [email protected] An important factor to consider when opening a new business in Mozambique, or after it is already established, is how to secure your investment. If one or more shareholders (individuals or corporate bodies) are not Mozambique nationals, it is possible to register the company with the Mozambique Foreign Investment Centre or CPI (Centro de Promocao de Investimento). The basic requirements are: • Have one or more foreign nationality investors. • Invest a minimum of around US$100,000 of Direct Foreign Investment (DFI). The Investor’s benefits by registering are: • Right to repatriate capital at end of project. • Right to remit dividends offshore. • Right to contract financing offshore. • Duty Free and VAT exemption on ‘K’ class items in tariff code book which includes mainly capital items. Additional benefits are given to specific industries such as tourism. • Reduction in corporation tax. • Tax credits for certain costs such as training, new technology, rehabilitation or improvement of public infrastructure and accelerated depreciation. • Quota for expatriate employees higher than that given by labour law. For the Mozambique government there is the expectation of: • Creating employment for Mozambique nationals. • Inflow of foreign exchange. • Importation of new technology. The application submitted to CPI takes anything from one to two months to approve, depending on the complexity of the project. It can of course take longer. CPI will respond with a draft Terms of Approval which are reviewed and agreed with the investor. This is also normally an opportunity to negotiate better terms than those offered. Once terms are finalised, they are signed by the CPI director and become the agreement between the investor and the Mozambique government. It is possible to alter the terms if the original projections were underestimated. In the same way, the investment amounts can be reduced should the business not perform as expected. For independent offshore advice We are intermediaries for the following international healthcare insurers: We also provide: *Life Assurance *Retirement Plans *Saving Plans *Investments *Travel Insurance Contact: [email protected] / [email protected] Tel: +265 182 4108/ +265 183 0783 Mobile: +265 999 511 505 / +265999118903 Dossani House, 17 Glyn Jones Road, Blantyre, Malawi Private Bag 77, Blantyre, Malawi There are lots of good reasons …. ... Tele : +258 82 509 4300, +258 84 383 6593 | Email : [email protected] | Web : www.prointelafrica.com | ProIntel Africa, Avenida Independencia, Box 84, Tete, Mozambique 50100 | t 06 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend CAHORA BASSA & TETE NATIONAL PARK Rare orioles and shy elephants Regular contributor Chris Scott sent this report from Gorongosa, a famous park now in recovery in Mozambique. elephants starting to settle down in their new haven and treat humans with less www.scottyphotography.net fear and aggression. Gorongosa has both a colourful and distressing history. The park was he herd of elephants a favoured hunting ground halted suddenly as for the colonial elite in the they emerged from the thick raffia palm 1920s. The first step towards preserving the area was grove, their trunks iminitiated by the Mozammediately up in the air for bique Company, which was a taste of what had alerted chartered by the then colothem. We sat motionless in nial government to manage the vehicle on the road 50m away, thrilled with the scene central Mozambique. One in front of us. Our stalemate thousand square kilometres only lasted a few more uneasy were set aside as a hunting reserve by the company moments before the herd and formed the basis of bunched up and crossed in front of us, trumpeting their what is now Chitengo and Gorongosa National Park. disdain into the distance. Visiting dignitaries Back at Gorongosa’s main made the reserve a popucamp Chitengo, the guides told us we were privileged to lar destination and a new have had such an interaction administration block was built, the derelict remains of with Gorongosa elephants, which are fondly referred to which have a deep mistrust as the ‘lion house’ due to the of anything human, borne of a long spell of persecution resident pride’s predilection at the hands of poachers and towards literally hanging out in and on the building. militia. Only now are the CASA BRANCA LODGE Affordable accomodation and great meals.¬ ¬ DONA PATRICIA RIVER CRUISES )RUZRQGHUIXOFUXLVHVRQWKHPLJKW\=DPEH]L¬$OVRRIIHUVWD\ORU PDGHFUXLVHVWRVXLWFOLHQWVUHTXLUHPHQWV¬7KHVHFRXOGLQFOXGHDQ RYHUQLJKWFUXLVHDGD\FUXLVHWRWKHZRQGHUIXO%RURPD0LVVLRQ¬D day cruise to the coast or just a fantastic sundowner cruise with spectacular sunset panoramas. Tel: +258 848435655 Email: [email protected] / [email protected] PHOTOS:CHRISTOPHER SCOTT CHRISTOPHER SCOTT After the Mozambique Company’s charter came to an end in the early 1940s, the reserve’s management was handed over to the colonial government. The first warden of the park, Alfredo Rodriques, set about banning hunting and built the restaurant and administration at the main camp of Chitengo. The colonial government expanded the park by another 2,100km2 and declared it a National Park in 1960. This had a staggering effect on the ecology of the area and the earliest census held in the late 1960s revealed that the park hosted 200 lion, 2,200 elephant, 14,000 buffalo, 5,500 wildebeest, 3,000 zebra, 3,500 waterbuck, 2,000 impala, 3,500 hippo, and herds of eland, sable and hartebeest numbering more than five hundred. Conservation and tourism came to and end with the onset of the Mozambique civil war. The park was abandoned from 1983 and for nine long years the Decades of persecution during Mozambique’s civil war have left Gorongosa’s elephant population ravaged and nervous of humans. Encounters may not be prolific and if you do happen upon them it’s best to keep some distance between you and them sary resources to start the rebuilding of the park. In 2004 the Carr Foundation, led by millionaire philanthropist Gregory Carr, gave the park the vital boost it needed. US$10 million was invested by the Foundation over three years and the Government and the Foundation signed a 20 year co-management plan. The comical looking Oribi are a Gorongosa is a vessel common sight on the plains of of biological diversity with Gorongosa some species of plants and animals endemic to the area. Mount Gorongosa park, its animals and the surrounding local population is a huge brooding massif suffered the brutal atrocities that juts 1862m from the of war. By 1992, most of the savanna floor, influences the animal populations had been weather patterns of the area reduced to within ten percent and hosts pristine brachystegia and temperate forests. of their original numbers. Mount Gorongosa is Various development one of the main focal points forums provided the neces- of the restoration project. Areas of the mountain that were previously considered sacred by the locals have been overrun and more than 2,000 people live on the slopes of the mountain, contributing to the slow degradation of the unique natural environment. Castro Kaskata, our National Parks guide, explains how the community is slowly being educated about the importance of the mountain and how participants from the community have set up 35 tree nurseries around the slopes of the mountain. As we slowly made our way up the side of the mountain, with the dark shimmer of indigenous forests beckoning us from a distance, we had to negotiate our way through maize and banana plantations, testament to the triumph of small scale agriculture over biological diversity. The sheer beauty and coolness of the forest was overwhelming at first, and then the faint burbling of our quarry echoed tantalizingly. Castro expertly cupped his hand and with practised vocal dexterity returned the liquid notes. Even in the dull forest light the bright green head and luminous yellow body of a green headed oriole was easily recognizable. This oriole can only be found on the slopes of Mt Gorongosa. The area’s diverse geography plays host to a staggering 400 species of birds, some rare and shy like the Narina tarogon and some under threat like the scores of crowned cranes that flock to the Park’s seasonal wetlands, making Gorongosa one of the must-visit areas of southern Africa for any keen birder. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend CAHORA BASSA & TETE PRODUCE 2013 MAR APR MAY 07 BUSINESS Best buy local beef Twenty years of peace have resulted in excellent investment into PHOTO: GIGI GUIMBEAU Mozambique, with agriculture and mining strongly benefitting. The beef industry was not something which could make an instant recovery, but now good quality Mozambican beef is once again ready for the discerning palate. Tete city is a bustling centre for new business ZT CORRESPONDENT Renting property essentials [email protected] www.agriterra-ltd.com Zambezi Traveller met with Euan Kay from Mozbife. Is all your beef sourced locally? EK: It’s all local beef from Manica and Tete. What is the capacity of your new butchery? EK: Infinite! The abattoir can slaughter up to 100 head per day. We have a new state-of-theart, EU standard facility, completed in November 2012, at a cost of $3.5 million. It’s the largest facility of its kind in Mozambique, and is capable of helping to reduce Mozambique’s dependence on meat imports, which creates an opportunity for Mozbife to capitalise on a strong domestic market. The ab- PHOTO: MOZ BIFE ozbife is Agriterra’s vertically integrated beef division, which includes cattle ranching, feedlot, abattoir and retail units. Mozbife has established five ranches covering over 20,000 ha and have herds of 6,000 head. Pedigree Beefmaster and cross-bred animals are sourced from the Mavonde and Dombe ranches, and augmented with native animals from the local community, helping to ensure a strong supply. Animals will typically weigh between 500 kgs and 700 kgs following their time in the feedlot, usually three months. The result is premium beef that can meet the high standards of vibrant cosmopolitan Mozambican cities like Tete, Chimoio, Beria and Maputo. ACIS Healthy Mozambican cattle that provide good quality beef attoir is also Halal certified, meaning Agriterra is able to export beef to markets in the Middle East. Do you have outlets in other parts of the country? EK: Chimoio, Beira and shortly Maputo and Matola. How are your blockmen trained at the moment? EK: We have nine men training with seven highly experienced blockmen who have worked in Zimbabwe, Portugal and South Africa. Mozambique is said to be one of the fastest growing economies in the world; how do you see the beef industry in ten year’s time? EK: As the population becomes more financially empowered and with employment and foreign investment on the increase, the market will develop at a phenomenal rate. Where do you think the best ranching country is in Mozambique? EK: Manica, Sofala, Tete and Inhambane provinces. www.acismoz.com The tax regime for property rental in Mozambique is somewhat complex. Calculation of the tax to be charged or paid depends on: • If the rental is for commercial or residential purposes; • If the property is located in an urban or a rural area; • If the lessor and lessee are both corporate entities, both individuals or a corporate entity and an individual. Rural areas are those outside of legally designated cities, towns or villages. Urban areas are therefore those within cities, towns or villages. While legislation does not specifically define commercial and residential, residential is understood to be for family housing purposes and commercial for business purposes. As a general rule both urban and rural residential property rentals are VAT exempt while urban commercial property rentals include a VAT requirement regardless of whether the lessor and lessee are individuals or corporate entities. All property rentals, whether urban or rural, are subject to withholding tax, with rates varying from 14% (where the lessor is an individual and the lessee is a corporate entity) to 20% (where both lessor and lessee are corporate entities). The exception to this is where the lessor corporate entity is a duly constituted property management company, in which case withholding tax is not payable. If a corporate entity enters into a residential property rental arrangement on behalf of one of its employees, providing housing as part of an employment arrangement for example, this is considered a ‘fringe benefit’ for the employee and is taxable as part of the overall salary received by said employee. Any lease agreement entered into in Mozambique or relating to property in Mozambique is subject to registration with the Ministry of Finance and the payment of Stamp Duty at a rate of 2% of the highest rental value agreed between the parties, which is usually based on one month’s rent i.e. 2% of one month’s rent. The legal provisions relating to tax on rental of property are complex and there are a number of exceptions to the general rules outlined above. If in doubt seek qualified legal advice, available from reputable practitioners. We strive for excellence in the delivery of innovative international health care solutions to the members of our different plans, programmes and schemes. Our medical aid funds and health insurance solutions are managed and administered in conjunction with selected regional partners including International SOS, MSO, Netcare Hospitals, Mediclinic and ER24. Alliance Health Options is a set of innovative regional health care plans designed to provide up to $1,500,000 of health care benefits to residents of Southern and East African countries. Members have full benefit use throughout the specified region as well as $100,000 for emergency medical treatment required whilst travelling in other countries of the world. The Northern Alliance suite of plans are designed to provide high level medical aid benefits and the use of the widest range of private health care services in Zimbabwe, South Africa and the sub-region. Costs of treatment are paid up to ‘reasonable and customary’, minimising shortfalls or copayments. Multimed private medical cover is designed to provide members with cost effective access to high levels of international benefits (up to $1,000,000) for the costs of unforeseen medical treatment. This product is specifically designed for people living and working in Africa. www.alliancehealth.co.zw Alliance Health, 7 Fleetwood Road, Alexandra Park, Harare Telephone: 744 124/ 745 889/ 745 890/ 783 067 / 783 068/ 0772 126 119 08 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend CAHORA BASSA & TETE ART PHOTO: CRAIG VANDELEUR POEM A unique 120m long, seven metre high contemporary artwork by Elias Abdula Naguib Senduana serpent of Songo Monumento à Liberdade. Songo, Província de Tete, Centro de Moçambique CRAIG VANDELEUR http://desafio.co.mz The Senduana serpent is one of the oldest and most widespread mythological symbols in the traditions of the Tinyanga of Cahora Bassa, and shares characteristics and history with Nyaminyami, who is widely revered by the Batonga upstream on the Zambezi in the Kariba gorge. It is said that the animal was trapped during the development of Cahora Bassa dam, suffering a similar fate to Nyaminyami during the construction of Kariba. In the village of Songo, Tete province, artist Elias Abdula Naguib has created a unique 120m long, seven metre high contemporary piece of art, inspired by Mozambique’s shamanic traditions and crossing myth, history and the formation of the dam. Historians of the Eduardo Mondlane University assisted in the conception of pictorials on the monument. These represent human his- Tetra Limitada tory of the Zambezi from early days of Swahili gold and slave trading, life and Nhungue culture under the Prazo, Portuguese colonial rule, the creation of Cahora Bassa hydroelectric station and the eventual independence of State of Mozambique. Naguib took 121 days on the work, with the support of 21 artists, eight of whom were graduates from the Higher Institute of Arts and Culture in Maputo. Elias Abdula Naguib Naguib was born in Tete in 1955 and schooled at the College of St Joseph in Tete. He studied construction in Maputo, then attended the Fine Arts School in Lisbon. He also trained in serigraphy at the University of Cape Town, and in the conservation and restoration of works of art at Kunst Museum in Cologne, Germany. He served an internship in the Department of Visual Arts at the University of Northumbria in England and in 2006 he was Visiting Professor at the University of São Paulo, Brazil. He is a founding member of the Foundation for Community Development, of the Movement of Artists Against Poverty, a Mozambican foundation, and 1 Artist 1 Gesture). He has created several murals in the city of Maputo, including ‘Ode a Samora Machel,’ and ‘The pathways of water.’ Our Town RHONA DE FREITAS We live in a town that’s dusty & dry extremely hot and full of flies, cars whizz around at a crazy rate it almost seem like everyone’s late! Streets teem with life’s assortments… Little kids selling nuts and eggs, others choose to stand around & beg. Goats and chickens, cows and sheep veggie stalls and places to eat. Music blares night and day people dance and drink while children play. Trucks, cars and motorbikes a wheelchair that looks like a trike! Bicycles laden with charcoal and wood donkey carts that make you toot. Chicken and chips cooked on strips of tin sheet fruit sellers and night walkers of the streets, Dried stinking fish piled in rows a barber, furniture maker and a seller of shoes and amidst all of this the mighty Zambezi River flows, proudly meandering its way towards the sea, bringing to us much needed tranquility. This place makes us laugh and it makes us frown this frustrating, energetic, vibrant Tete town!! Join in the fun of a new Tete Bazaar on Sunday 7 April from 11.00hrs to 17.00hrs Stalls will be selling food, clothing, books, plants, jewellery, drinks, woodwork, arts and crafts, live entertainment and kiddies’ entertainment. 100 Mets Entry, proceeds to go to Mother Theresa orphanage. Suppliers and stockists of all your painting requirements. Quality painting accessories by Hamiltons Cemcrete products for decorative finishes to floors , walls, low cost painting swimming pools and ponds. All interested persons who would want a stall please contact Mila on 842674165. Lets get ‘community minded’, have creative fun and make friends at the same time. Richard +258 823 975 915 email: [email protected] Zairan +258 842 524 096 [email protected] Antonio +258 824 286 364 BAMBA CENTRE on the Malawi Road The venue will be confirmed soonest!! See you there! PHOTOS: GIGI GUIMBEA Bring your camping chairs, picnic baskets, friends and family and enjoy a fun filled day. Meat will be for sale and fires provided. Cooking chips and kapenta harvested from Cahora Bassa sold on the streets of Tete BA R AN D CO MI NG RE ST SO ON AU RA NT ΖI\RXDUHORRNLQJIRUDQH[FLWLQJȴVKLQJH[SHULHQFHRUSXUHO\IRUDELWRI55ZHKDYHWKHLGHDOGHVWLQDWLRQIRU\RX Well presented Self Catering Chalets & Rondavels | Camping Area | Fishing | Bird watcher paradise | Boat Hire Information & Bookings: Ph: +258 844085785/+258 848978465 Email: [email protected] www.moringabaylodge.com Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend 2013 MAR APR MAY 09 Botswana CHOBE Download all issues to your tablet or computer from www.zambezitraveller.com Conservation – Community – Wildlife – World Heritage – History – Tourism MIGRATIONS Findings reveal critical wildlife corridors where the zebra go when the rains begin. In August 2012 EWB initiated a research Programme Manager, project, which had support Elephants Without Borders from the Botswana Department of Wildlife and National www.elephantswithoutborders.org Parks, with funding provided by the Paul G Allen Family Foundation and San Diego ome animal popula- Zoological Society’s Institute tions make a year- for Conservation Research. round home of the Researchers fitted satellite colChobe, other species lars on zebra along the Chobe come and go. Finding out just floodplains in order to be able how and when these migrat- to follow their seasonal moveing species move in and out ments. During the hot, dry seaof the Chobe is an important aspect of conserving this im- son, water-dependent zebra gather along the Chobe floodportant river ecosystem. Elephants Without Bor- plains to drink and graze. At ders began studying the move- the peak of the season in Ocments of elephants more than tober, many of the zebra cross a decade ago, and has greatly the river, extending their grazimproved knowledge of el- ing range 15 kilometres north ephant ranges in this region into Namibia’s Caprivi Strip. of southern Africa. Working throughout the span of the five-country Kavango-ZamSuddenly the bezi Transfrontier Conservazebra began to tion Area, EWB has recently move quickly, expanded its projects to include other large herbivores. as if with On the western floodan intended plains of the Chobe, this destination in means zebra. Driving along mind. the riverfront in August or September, one nearly always crosses paths with large herds The monitored zebra of zebra. EWB’s aerial survey counts have shown that showed that when the rains zebra - numbering approxi- finally did arrive, usually in mately 3,000 - gather along November, the zebra began the Chobe River during the to move south through the interior of Chobe National dry season. However, it has remained Park, in search of fresh a long-standing mystery grass. Suddenly the zebra PHOTO: KELLY LANDEN KELLY LANDEN boundary mammal migration in southern Africa. And the dispersal to Seloko Plains is critical and timely to note, as there is a growing concern over possible land-use and management changes that are happening in the surrounding area. EWB’s director Mike Chase and Robin Naidoo have agreed to jointly publish their findings. This collaboration will also provide a positive example of how researchers and organisations from different countries, within the KAZA TFCA, can work together, in the spirit of a trans-boundary conservation initiative. Dr Mike Chase collaring a zebra for research began to move quickly, as if with an intended destination in mind. EWB documented two dispersal routes: one southeast towards the Seloko Plains region, amongst the Chobe Forest reserves, and the second, a remarkable 260km straight line south to Nxai Pan, part of Makgadikgadi/ Nxai Pans National Park. As EWB researchers uncovered these zebra tracks, they learned of another researcher, Robin Naidoo, supported by the Namibian Ministry of Environment and Tourism, with assistance from WWF Namibia, who had collared zebra during the same dry season, across the Chobe River in Namibia’s Caprivi Strip. The zebra Nai- doo monitored verified the exact same route, at the same time and speed, south to Nxai Pan. EWB recently completed a wet season aerial survey of Nxai Pan to count the actual numbers of zebra that utilise this wet season range and verified over 1,500 zebra on the pan in one day. They also plan to survey Seloko Plains soon, which will provide a better understanding of zebra ranging distribution. Migratory corridors are becoming more and more crucial to safeguarding large populations of wildlife. Further research - and more time - might reveal that the dispersal between the Chobe River floodplains to Nxai Pan may possibly be the longest trans- Situated in the Heart of Kasane we offer the following; » Chobe Full Day Trips – Options available » Victoria Falls Day Trips – Options available » Game Cruises | Game Drives | Fishing Trips Transfers to and from Vic Falls, Zambia and Namibia We can tailor make your safari to suit your specific needs be it a Game drive or Boat cruise. Our reservations team operates 24 hours a day to conveniently book your safari or just that simple enquiry you may have. All our guides are professional at what they do and they will leave a lasting impression of your visit to Botswana. Time is for spending; spend it wisely with Chobezi Hylton Ross Touring Safari, and it will be time well spent. Call us on +267 6250992, 6251667 Fax +267 6251297 Emergency 24 hour Mobile +267 76201918 E mail: [email protected] / [email protected] / [email protected] 10 MAR APR MAY 2013 CHOBE Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend COMMUNITY DR RACHEL DEMOTTS Dr Rachel DeMotts is Associate Professor, University of Puget Sound, Tacoma, USA, and Affiliated Researcher, Elephants Without Borders, Kasane, Botswana www.elephantswithoutborders.org outhern Africa is a tourist destination because of the relative ease of seeing wildlife roaming freely in a unique landscape, but making conservation work on the ground for the local communities that live with wildlife every day is a major challenge. Community-based conservation is a popular strategy that seeks to help mitigate some of the negative effects of living closely with wildlife – such as conflict be- tween people and elephants over water, food, and space – while working towards more equitable sharing of benefits from the wealth that tourism can bring. But managing wildlife is often seen as the domain of men, and sometimes this means women are left out of the conservation picture at the village level. At the same time, women harvest forest resources and play a crucial part in conserving the landscape itself, not just the wildlife. One very important local resource for women is palm, which is used to weave the stunning baskets for which Botswana in particular is famous but which are made throughout southern Africa. With evocative names such as ‘The Tears of the Giraffe’ or ‘The Urine HISTORY Trail of the Bull,’ baskets are a crucial form of cultural expression for local women and also give them access to cash income, often a rarity in rural areas. Community conservation projects such as those facilitated by Integrated Rural Development and Nature Conservation in Namibia’s Caprivi Strip help women monitor the resources they use so that they can share and trade them sustainably. Equally important, women manage their own markets, such as Mashi Crafts, located at Kongola in the Caprivi, or Quality Baskets, a shop run by Thitaku Kushonya, a master weaver in Maun. Mma Kushonya, as she is called, teaches other women to weave and is currently building a small Hambuku- PHOTOS : DR RACHEL DE MOTTS T he hidden value of basket craft Flight of the Swallow by Thitaku Kushonya Woman from Choi Namibia demonstrate the use of grass of weaving when there is not enough palm shu cultural village to share with tourists. “My art is not only for me but it is also for other people, to help them to remember their culture but also to make income from tourism,” she says. “I depend on my work, because tourism is very important here in an area where there is often no other work for people. In this way, we can teach tourists something about our culture and this place, too.” Employment in conservation projects, opportunities to learn new skills, and the ability to make decisions about their own income and craft markets have a transformational effect on individual women. Many women who make crafts for the market at Mashi, for example, use the funds they earn to pay school fees for their daughters who might not otherwise be able to attend school. Baskets can provide more than just a lovely memory of a safari. They carry not just cultural knowledge, but the opportunity to enrich local women’s lives through participating in tourism. On the Old Hunters’ Road PETER ROBERTS PHOTO: TOM VARLEY www.birdlifebotswana.org. bw/nata_sanctury_trust.html Zimbabwe Botswana Linyanti at sunaset At the turn of the last century Victoria Falls had only just appeared on the tourist map. Only known to the wider world since 1855, when David Livingstone made their existence popular knowledge, to reach the Victoria Falls required an expedition of many weeks, if not months, travelling overland by ox-cart along rough tracks through thick bush inhabited by wild and dangerous animals. Explorers, hunters and traders all made tracks towards the Falls, and before long a wagon road ran from the south. The Old Hunters’ Road, as it became known, now forms the border between Botswana and Zimbabwe. Years earlier, when David Livingstone first began his missionary explorations and trekked north to the banks of the Zambezi it was through modern-day Botswana. He was the first to document Lake Ngami, and arrived at the Zambezi near Linyanti, upstream of Kazungula, before eventually travelling downstream to the Victoria Falls. Today the journey to The Falls is most often by air, with the majority of tourists flying to Victoria Falls via Johannesburg in a matter of hours. For those searching for a bit more adventure, an overland trip up to Victoria Falls can be rewarding and offers the chance to follow in Livingstone’s footsteps. For the modern traveller the route through Botswana also presents an opportunity to visit the Makgadikgadi Pans, vast seasonally flooded salt pans covering some 12,000km2, among the largest salt pans in the world. Livingstone crossed this area several times, twice with his wife Mary, pregnant and with two young children in tow. They were lucky to survive the journeys. During the dry season the landscape is a flat, parched desert, without water or vegetation. During the wet season the pans undergo a miraculous transformation – the shallow flooded waters are a magnet for migratory waterbirds and home to thousands of breeding flamingos and pelicans creating one of Africa’s most colourful wildlife scenes. Nata Bird Sanctuary, located off the main north road, is one of the best places to access this remote wilderness. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend CHOBE 2013 MAR APR MAY 11 HISTORY History of Chobe National Park: Part XI [email protected] he official establishment of Chobe Game Reserve (now Chobe National Park) in 1960 brought worldwide recognition to this amazing area with its diversity of flora and fauna. Wildlife experts and enthusiasts are still eager to document this diversity and the effects of the surrounding developments. Even those with serious concern for the future of the park could not have imagined the elephant population reaching the vast numbers of today. Dr Graham Child was one of the pioneers of the conservation programmes in Botswana and his presence was due in part to a conference held in Arusha in 1961, the main topic of which was the Conservation of Nature and Natural Resources in Modern African States. Child’s job as the first wildlife biologist in Botswana was to assess the ecological and economic opportunities of the Chobe region. In 1965, he and his wife Diana moved to the tiny settlement of Kasane. He built a concrete rondavel in the ebony grove on the bend of the Chobe River opposite Sedudu Island. Pat Hepburn, the park warden, had his headquarters and family home next door. Child was employed by the Food and Agricultural Organisation of the United Nations. His son Brian writes that his father was always one to look at ecosystems holistically and even in those early days of the park he voiced concerns that elephants were damaging the ecology of the Chobe riverine vegetation. Child repeated one 1965 vegetation and wildlife transect along the riverfront in 2007 with one of Brian’s Masters students, Andrea Wolf. As the plant and animal tables illustrate, dramatic changes had taken place. In 1970 Child moved his family to Gaborone for his children’s education. He continued his work with wildlife and, together with Dr Alec Campbell, Laurens Tenant and Pat Bromfield, helped to shape the game Flora Croton 5 270 4 Lonchocarpus capassa 40 2 Acacia erioloba 17 1 Burchemia discolour 27 8 Lannea kirkii 14 0 Trichilia emetic 14 11 Markhamia obstufolia 11 0 Strychnos stuhlmanii 7 3 Capparis tomentosa 0 3 Garcinia livingstonei 3 2 21 individual of 5 species 4 individual of 2 species Defecations counted in 1965 Defecations counted in 2007 0 400 Impala Kudu bulls have more than doubled in Chobe featured on the Department of Wildlife and National Parks logo; prior to this an elephant had featured on the badge. 2007 152 Fauna department in Botswana. In his travels around the country Child rescued a bat-eared fox in the Kalahari which became part of the family and was named Nipper. A bat-eared fox has, since those early days, 1965 Acacia nigrescens Other species PHOTO: TOM VARLEY JUDY HEPBURN Elephant 100 370 Buffalo 260 200 Kudu 70 180 Giraffe 0 60 Warthog 170 25 Sable 22 18 Bushbuck 155 0 Puku 22 0 Wildebeest 22 0 Child continued to contribute to the development of the wildlife authority in Botswana and spent many weeks surveying the land, with two drums of petrol and a drum of water in the back of his Ford 250 truck. I would like to thank Dr Brian Child for the material for this editorial and we will look at more of his and Dr Graham Child’s observations on the Chobe elephant in future issues. 12 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend CHOBE CONSERVATION TRUE LIFE A Puppy for Xmas persuaded the intruder to relax its vice-like hold, then wrenched Asanti’s limp form from its grasp. Once the predator had taken refuge in We all remember our first a corner, he phoned Dr Mark ‘Puppy for Christmas’ - that Vandewalle of the Kasane adorable bundle of fur which Biodiversity Centre for asyour parents constantly sistance. reminded you was ‘Yours for Three particular memories Life’ as you cleaned up after it. remain after the event: Sixteen year old Skye Firstly, a gleeful shriek Comley loves all animals, so Skye and Asanti Sana from Skye: “Asanti’s alive!” she’s never nagged to look Cradling her pet’s body, after her pets, and it was this she’d sensed movement, and deep-seated passion that gave dreadful on the floor. “Python! saw the pup shake her head her the strength to fight for the Asanti!” she shouted desperately, landing another blow suddenly, open her eyes and life of her own Christmas pup, begin tottering about, quite a fluffy golden retriever named on the thick reptilian coils wrapped around her puppy – unharmed despite some nasty Asanti, when a python paid a hind legs and tail visible and scratches on her muzzle. visit in early January 2013. ominously still. Secondly, Mark’s unerrAround 2am that morning I I took in the ghastly sight ing accuracy when, at an awoke to the frenzied barkand needed to tell Skye the unearthly hour and in an emoing of the family dogs outside Skye’s cottage, and my sleepy truth. “Asanti is dead!” I blurted, tionally charged atmosphere, as I urged to guide her father to he grabbed the angry snake mind cleared rapidly when I heard the blood-chilling sound the scene, having heard him on behind its head before he and Peter wrestled its three metre of a girl yelling for help. Yelling his way, calling to us. Frustrated, I thumped at length into a box for the short – yes, screaming – “no!” Skye the snake’s unyielding mass. trip to the Biodiversity Centre was demanding assistance, A loud hiss followed and I leapt and much needed recuperanot howling in panic, and as I backwards as a serpentine tion. ran towards the commotion I head reared up and struck Thirdly, the calmness of could hear a blunt instrument at my stick, Skye’s earlier the brave girl who did not clobbering some inanimate counter-attack having caused flee screaming in terror when object. it to unclasp its fangs from the confronted with the savagery Stick in hand, I burst into little dog’s head. Fortunately, of Africa, but fought for the the bedroom and found a Peter Comley arrived wieldpuppy that would now be hers distraught teenager wielding ing a knobkerrie and further for life. a cricket bat on something PHOTOS : BY DR RACHEL DE MOTTS Drama and bravery in this domestic tale with a dif ference SOURCE: SKYE COMLEY ROY ASHBY It’s hard work rescuing an elephant An elephant-size problem Getting out of a hole is no small problem when you are this size! KELLY LANDEN www.mewt.gov.bw/DWNP www.elephantswithoutborders.org Kazungula is a small residential border town nestled between the Chobe River and Kasane Forest Reserve. The people of the community are no strangers to elephants passing their homes, as herds regularly make their way down from the forest ridge, across the main tar road, heading for the river to drink in the evenings. Routine early morning sounds were disrupted by the distress call of an elephant one day during February. Residents shuffled out to discover a full-grown elephant cow had fallen into a manmade ditch, which was part of an abandoned home plot under construction, right in the middle of their community. A crowd gathered around her in awe, while Kasane’s Department of Wildlife and National Parks’ (DWNP) Problem Animal Control division was called. After an assessment that she seemed to be unharmed, discussion turned to how to get her out. It was decided to dig a much longer trench in the hope that she could walk out unassisted. A JCB excavator tractor was brought in to accomplish the task. After many stressful hours, as the crowd chobe CLASSIFIEDS Advertise in Chobe Classifieds Internet & Wifi Hot & Cold drinks Pay phone Botswana Maps Postcards Ice Cubes & Blocks Curios & African Memorabilia Zambezi Traveller ACCOMMODATION Shop 14/15, Hunters Africa (New Arcade - Spar Complex) Fax/Tel: + 267 625 2483 Cell: + 267 721 16479 Shop 5 Kazungula Junction (Near Engen) Tel: +267 625 2485 [email protected] www.cape2cairobureau.com Senyati Safari Camp. Nine SC thatched campsites with power and own ablutions. Three SC chalets, each sleep up to 4. Bar overlooking waterhole. Located 8km from Kazungula on Nata Road. Phone +267 718 81306 or +267 718 26709. www.senyatisafaricamp.co.bw Email: [email protected] BUREAU DE CHANGE Cape 2 Cairo Bureau De Change Shop 14/15, Hunters Africa Mall (Spar Complex) Tel: +267 6252483 Shop 5, Kazungula Junction Tel: +267 6252485 Cell: 72138618 or 72116479 Website: www.cape2cairobureau.com COFFEE SHOP Come and enjoy our african/german kitchen. NEW!! Free Wireless for all customers having a meal!! Weekly specials,cold roast beef with potato salad, lentil curry with sweet potato & basmati rice, homemade dumplings with seswaa, traditional nama & pap, fish & chips, eisbein with mashed potatoes & caramelised onions. New on the Menu: coffee-pecan nut cake, chocolate brownies, amazing burger, baked aubergine, nachos, chicken schnitzel, coffee milk shake, homemade lemonade and much more. Opening hours are from 7.30 am to 14.00 pm from Monday grew in anticipation and curiosity, the trench was finally complete. The elephant was tired, hesitant and confused, but eventually, with a slight nudge, she walked up the path that had been built for her. She took a few moments to gather her wits and strength before moving on. The DWNP paralleled her course, warning residents to remain in their homes until the stressed elephant could flee back into the forest, where her family herd awaited her return. A potentially dangerous situation for all involved was resolved with no harm to the elephant or the people of Kazungula. Well done Botswana’s DWNP! [email protected] +267 (0) 716 176 02 to Saturday. You can find us at Kalahari Holiday Tours, Kasane Main Road plot 721. If you wish to book a table, a packed lunch, cakes or for a group, send us an email: [email protected] Phone: 71318956 HEALTH & WEALTH Herbalife independent distributor High tech weight loss nutrition & personal care products. Be your own boss! Earn extra income. Isaac: 74325426/71801578 Email: [email protected] www.herbalife.com PURIFIED WATER BOTTLING PLANT Aquarite Botswana: Manufacturers of purified bottled water and purified soda water. Refill your containers with purified water at a fraction of the cost. Based in Kasane (next to Tyremax in Kazungula) and Maun. Contact head office: +267 686 0283 or Lorraine +267 72989574 SA Airlink from 22 March 2013 introduces new intra-African routes, with service launch to Kasane in Botswana X4 Flights Weekly Johannesburg – Kasane SA8303 JNB1145 – 1325BBK ER3 x246 SA8304 BBK1400 – 1550JNB ER3 x246 Service increases to daily from 31JUL13 Botswana 13 OKAVANGO Subscribe to our quarterly e-newsletter online at www.zambezitraveller.com On your way to the Zambezi CONSERVATION SOURCE WWW.BCPTRUST.ORG www.bcptrust.org www.grantatkinson.com In issue 11, Dr J W McNutt wrote a fascinating story ‘Building boundaries with scent’ about the Botswana Predator Conservation Trust (BPCT). Detailed here are a few pertinent facts about this very valuable organisation. Founded as the Botswana Wild Dog Research Project in 1989, the BPCT has expanded to cover all the large carnivore species in Botswana. It is one of the longest running large predator research projects in Africa and one of only a handful of its calibre worldwide. The Government of Botswana has entrusted BPCT with the task of leading northern Botswana’s conservation and research initiatives on all large carnivores and their associated habitats. The Okavango Delta, where most of BPCT’s research takes place, is a freshwater wetland of global importance. It is the largest Ramsar (International Conven- tion on Wetlands) site on earth and was granted IUCN world heritage status by the World Conservation Union (IUCN). BPCT uses rigorous scientific enquiry to acquire essential knowledge regarding all behavioural ecology and communications systems of large predators to promote solutions for the preservation of Africa’s large predators and their habitats. Updates and provides accurate information to Government of Botswana on all large predators. Has developed a strong rapport with communities to PHOTO: GRANT ATKINSON The Botswana Predator Conservation Trust grow the local and national conservation ethos by encouraging their involvement using sound conservation strategies. Conservation and Education Programmes Coaching for Conservation Programmme (C4C): This programme is aimed at primary school children with the core message: Respect Yourself, Respect Each Other, and Respect Your Environment. Domestic Dog Disease Control Programme: Through collaboration with the Maun Animal Welfare Association (MAWS), this project aims to Wild dog at Chitabe in the Okavango Delta control the spread of disease from domestic dogs to free ranging large carnivore species. Shorobe Livestock Insurance Initiative: BPCT is piloting an innovative programme that will address conflicts between large carnivores and livestock as well as tackle issues surrounding humanwildlife conflicts. Core message statement from BCPT Research and science is a prerequisite to doing effective conservation. Without information from focused research, we cannot address nor even identify the important questions necessary for sustainable management. Without conservation, we cannot change. minimise predator livestock loss is an important tool to reduce conflict. These dogs live permanently with the livestock and are placed with their herd as puppies, growing up as a member of the herd and aggressively defending the livestock against predators. Many predators, like the cheetah, can be chased away by an effective guard dog. CCB runs a Livestock Guarding Dog Network where members receive training on the proper use of the technique and free veterinary care including vaccinations, sterilisation and general veterinary assistance. CCB has been partnering with MAWS since 2009 to provide veterinary support for these livestock guarding dogs, a successful collaboration during which we’ve treated approximately 300 dogs. During the visits we vaccinate and sterilise other community dogs to ensure a reduction in local canine diseases, the spread of which threatens the health of livestock guarding dogs, as well as local predator populations. CONSERVATION ZT CORRESPONDENT www.maunanimalwelfare.com Improving the lives of domestic animals across Botswana Maun Animal Welfare Society (MAWS) is a non-profit organisation which aims to improve the lives and health of domestic animals by providing free veterinary services to low-income individuals in northern Botswana. We welcome vets and vet nurses year-round who travel to Maun to volunteer with us. From our purpose-built veterinary clinic we utilise locally-raised funds to undertake routine sterilisations and administer vaccinations. We also provide life-saving emergency treatment or humane euthanasia to animals beyond help. Furthermore, we reunite, rehome and PHOTO: TOM VARLEY BIRDLIFE rehabilitate lost, found and stray animals and provide an emergency first-response service to injured livestock. Our international funding allows us to conduct outreach clinics throughout Botswana, specifically targeting rural areas where villagers live side-by-side with wildlife. This work brings vital veterinary care to remote locations and helps to prevent the transmission of distemper and rabies: diseases which can decimate wildlife including endangered species such as African wild dogs and cheetahs, plus other predators including lions and leopards. Protecting Botswana’s wildlife through domestic animal care Our outreach work is endorsed by several internationally-recognised wildlife charities including Cheetah Conservation Botswana (CCB), an organisation which shares MAWS’s goal of SOURCE: MAWS Maun Animal Welfare Society MAWS members controlling domestic animals so they do not encroach on or infect wildlife populations. We undertake frequent outreach clinics on behalf of CCB, centred around their Ghanzi camp on the rural farming outskirts of the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. CCB is working to encourage farmers to use non-lethal methods of predator control. At present, predator species are often killed as they are considered a threat to livestock, so the proper use of livestock guarding dogs to Pygmy goose Patience for the perfect shot ZT CORRESPONDENT www.vicfallsproductions.com Although the pygmy goose, Nettapus uritus, has a very large range and is found widely in subtropical Africa, sightings of them are not over common. They are found in wetlands with emergent and floating vegetation such as floodplains, pans, pools, quieter river backwaters as well as estuaries, easily hidden by overhanging foliage and large clumps of vegetation. They are sought after by wildlife photographers for their striking, colourful, distinct markings. Well-known wildlife photographer, Tom Varley has this species on his wishlist of water bird to photograph when in the Okavango Delta and comments, ‘There is no shortage of them, they are just shy birds. When you approach them they fly away before you can get close enough to get a good shot. You will however find them in exactly the same place every day so with a little patience and luck they will stay still long enough for that perfect shot.’ ACTIVITIES Game Drives ACTIVITIES Game Drives Walks Mokoro activities Boat Cruises Kavango/Caprivi, Namibia an experience you will seldom encounter on the African continent. ## "! ##"" www.nundaonline.com Zimbabwe 14 HARARE On your way to the Zambezi ISSUE 10 FOR IPAD APP ONLY CONSERVATION Tracking and saving pangolin SOURCE: TIKKI HYWOOD TRUST The Tikki Hywood Trust is a non-profit organisation focused on the preservation of smaller, lesser known and endangered species. It has been involved in pangolin conservation since 1994, from breeding to research to lobbying for harsher penalties for poaching. The species has a high price on its head, both for its cultural significance in Zimbabwe, and now, more ominously, from the Asian market’s insatiable appetite for its body parts. released into protected areas. The Trust has also succeeded in increasing the severity of the penalty for poaching pangolins through lobbying to improve legislation for this specially protected species. Pangolins are listed in CITES Appendix II, which means limited controlled trade is allowed. By working with Zimbabwe Parks and MANA MEADOWS www.tikkihywoodtrust.org www.pangolinsg.org he year has started well for the Tikki Hywood Trust’s pangolin work in Zimbabwe; all rescued pangolins have been successfully Champ, an orphaned ground pangolin which arrived at Tikki Hywood Trust when he should still have been drinking his mother’s milk. He is just over a year old and was the second ground pangolin in recent history to be hand-reared on artificial formula Wildlife Management Authority (ZPWMA), other regional Parks authorities, scientists and interested groups, the Trust hopes to eventually elevate the CITES listing of this species to Appendix I and stop all trade. The immediate aim of the Trust’s pangolin work is to bring poaching to a halt in Zimbabwe and ensure that the stiff penalties that have recently been legislated are imposed in all cases. The Trust is an active Shop No. 53 Borrowdale Village Tel: 263 4 885660 | Fax: 263 4 883214 | Email: [email protected] member of both The African Pangolin Working Group and the IUCN Species Survival Commission for Pangolin. It determines the current status and distribution of pangolin in Zimbabwe by gathering data from around the country with the authority of ZPWMA. The Trust liaises with the Parks Authority and legal groups responsible for dealing with poached pangolin, so that where possible, when live animals are confiscated, they are taken to the Trust for assessment and monitoring. Once they are healthy enough they are released back into protected environments and tracked. The Trust is currently compiling a husbandry manual for the management of rescued pangolin in captivity. ‘This is strictly for emergency situations, as we don’t advocate that pangolins remain in captivity,’ says Lisa Hywood, founder and managing trustee. ‘Currently our work is based on ground pangolin, however we are now helping a group who are rehabilitating white bellied tree pangolins in Sierra Leone and we continue to forge similar relationships with groups throughout Africa.’ In Zimbabwe, the Trust tracks pangolins with transmitters in safe release sites to determine their range, territory, diet and other aspects of their behaviour and ecology – essential work, as very little is known about these shy, nocturnal and rare animals. ANIMAL RESCUE NT^GX\^TDVF\[_RGEF[ZGFX\VD# Travelling? Going Fishing? Email us your orders Bond Street Cnr The Chase, Mount Pleasant Shops Tel: 04 336373/79 | Billy: 0772 116451 / | Email: [email protected] Biff: 0772 265696 | Email: [email protected] Boutique Hospital 24 Hour Emergency Tr a v e l Va c c i n a t i o n C l i n i c Maternity ICU Surgery Aviation Medicine M a l a r i a & Tr a v e l A d v i s o r y 24 Hr Hotline 0773 333 691 15 Lanark Road, Belgravia, Harare; Phone: +2634 700666/8 / 707072 / 705691 [email protected] www.traumacentrehospital.com “Woman’s Wellness Centre” JANE HERRIOT I never cease to be astounded by the rate at which most wild animals’ wounds heal. As vets we do what we can when we have the animals immobilised, but with wildlife patients we usually only get the one precious chance at treatment. We were called out to examine a young buffalo bull that had been reported limping. The caller had also noticed a wound on the buffalo’s one hind leg, and it was suspected that he had forced his way through a fence. We located the herd and after a quick assessment it was decided that the buffalo definitely needed to be darted. We loaded the dart and did a drive-by darting. The herd moved in to examine the red-ended dart and to investigate the darted buffalo’s peculiar behaviour. We moved the vehicle in between the inquisitive bovines and the patient and they clomped off reluctantly once he stopped tottering around and rested on his sternum. PHOTO: JANE HERRIOT Helping nature heal wounds Helping hands make a happy ending We could smell the wound while we were still approaching him. Once the blindfold was securely in place we rolled him on his side to give us a good view of the wound. It was a very long and deeply infected wound right down to the bones on the inside of his right hind leg. Maggots infested the wound but they had done a splendid job of clearing away most of the dead tissue. It was vigorously cleaned and the maggots rudely removed from their comfortable home. There were so many of the larvae that it took some time, but with persistence eventually just clean, pink flesh confronted us. The lesion was packed with lime and the animal given good antibiotic and anti-inflammatory cover before being woken up. In just over a minute he was up and looking at us before ambling off to find his herd. The following day he was walking much easier and he has almost made a full recovery. With wild patients, a happy ending is enough thanks for any job. Zambezi Traveller Travellers friend 2013 MAR APR MAY 15 Zambia & Zimbabwe KARIBA & MIDDLE ZAMBEZI Conservation – Community – Wildlife – World Heritage – History – Tourism ANGLING MANA MEADOWS www.kitft.co.zw AC Famous Grouse claimed the title of Test Of The Best (TOTB) 2013 tournament champions – beating last year’s TOTB (and Kariba Invitation Tiger Fish Tournament) victors Remington Gold by just 0.3kgs! Test Of The Best is a two-day catch and release tiger fishing tournament held on Lake Kariba in February or March every year. The elite tournament, this year held over the first weekend of March in Charara, is contested by the top ten teams from the previous year’s Kariba Invitation Tiger Fish Tournament (KITFT). Remington Gold led the pack on the first day by nearly 10 points – scoring 67.05 points compared to LAC Famous Grouse’s 57.74 points. “We knew that to catch up on the second day we had to get our limit, which we did. The limit was the key factor to winning the competition,” said LAC Famous Grouse captain Clive Lendrum. “It was excellent, a great achievement... It’s always a good feeling to win the top ten and although we won it by a narrow margin, a win is a win.” Peter Lawson of Reming- ton Gold landed the heaviest total catch with his total points coming to 42.48. He was followed by Francois Viviers (40.2 points) and Prakash Goven (32.93 points). As usual, the tournament was scored in the traditional way with a marshal on board the boat weighing and recording each fish before its release. This year marshals also measured the length of the fish and photographed it. “We did this because the more statistics we have on weight and length the more accurate we become”, said David Whitehead, KITFT Public Relations Manager. The information, for now gathered purely for interest’s sake, will hopefully help with developing the recently introduced catch and release aspect of the larger KITFT where a sub-tournament has been introduced where a “measuring mat” records the length of the fish. This is later converted to an average weight for scoring purposes. Whitehead, speaking just after the tournament and as the Zambezi Traveller went to press said that the committee hadn’t yet managed to see how results compared but would be going through the statistics later. “I expect the results will be the same – that is that the team that won on the weight aggregate also won on the PHOTOS:DAVID WHITEHEAD Test Of T he Best 2013 LAC Famous Grouse won Test Of The Best 2013 are left to right: Liam MacDonald, Mark Futter, Clive Lendrum, Doug Campbell and Bruce Cooke Arthur Browell of ULTC Team Dulux caught the heaviest fish (10.32 kgs) during Test of the Best 2013. He was followed by David Beattie (6.92 and Dean Dewdney 6.64 kgs) Position length to weight system.” The sponsors were the same this year, with gold sponsors Bols Brandy, Mega Toasted, Nissan Zimbabwe and Zambezi joined by silver sponsors Ram Petroleum, THI Insurance and Telecel Zimbabwe. statistics Average weight of fish caught: 2.59kgs Total weight of fish caught: 615.57 kgs Total no. of fish caught: 237 No. of anglers catching fish: 39 Total anglers: 40 Team Points 1 Lac Famous Grouse 100.8 2 Remington Gold 100.49 3 Charter X Africom & Charter ‘B’ Famous Grouse 83.15 4 Swift 79.41 5 Stryke Telecel 69.28 6 F Neill & Sons Bullsharks 54.74 7 Team Sakunda 38.75 8 Cowboys & Indian 36.28 9 Ultc Team Dulux 27.6 10 Lac Bushcats 25.07 BIG DADDY Big Daddy, recently fully refurbished and under new management is an upmarket, spacious 85 foot pontoon powered by two 210hp Cummins engines. BIG DADDY Email: [email protected] Cell: 0722 480 325 (Julia) 1 double en-suite air conditioned cabin, 3 twin en-suite air conditioned cabins, 2 separate bathrooms, extra mattresses supplied for sleeping on top deck, Mosquito nets in all cabins; extra for top deck supplied, Salon area with large windows, bar and dining area, TV with premium bouquet DStv, Surround sound system throughout, Fully fitted kitchen, Large covered verandah area, with bar area and seating, Splash pool and sun bathing area. 16 MAR APR MAY 2013 KARIBA & MIDDLE ZAMBEZI Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend ENERGY Kariba f loodgates to open CHRISTOPHER SCOTT 700 million cubic meters of water leave the dam per second opened regularly due to consistent good rains, but post 1982 drier seasons prevented any opening of the floodgates for another 19 years until 2000. All six floodgates have only been opened once in the history of the dam, in 1966 for 48 hours, with the resulting mass of water gouging a hole at the base of the wall which had to be later repaired. Since 2000, floodgates have been opened in 2005, 2008, 2010, 2011 and now 2013. With one floodgate open 700 million cubic meters of water per second will be released into the Zambezi river valley, raising the level of the river on average two to three metres. PHOTOS: CHRISTOPHER SCOTT he Zambezi Water Authority has said it will be opening one Kariba spillway gate to regulate the high levels of water expected after a good wet season in the Zambezi catchment area. This early opening will also allow authorities at Cahora Bassa to manage the subsequent rising water levels downstream. Kariba Dam was officially opened by The Queen Mother Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth on 6 May 1960. Some 10,000 men spent four years building the 128 meter high, 24 meter thick and 560 meter long wall with over 1 million cubic meters of concrete and 20,000 tonnes of steel reinforcing, at a total cost (in 1960s money) of 480 million dollars. Eightysix men lost their lives during the construction period and some remain entombed in the wall. The imposing curved wall is robust enough to dam the estimated flow of 10 million liters of water that passed through the spillway each second when the wall was being constructed, and holds back on average 185 cubic kilometers of water. This immense mass (180,000,000,000,000 kilograms of water!) caused locally induced seismic activity as the water weighed on the underlying geology. In seasons with exceptionally high rains the Zambezi River Authority will consider opening the gates to regulate the rising level of the lake, as well as to preserve the structural integrity of the wall. Pre 1982 the floodgates where The incredible power of water as the gates open ANGLING This is a family fishing tournament with the main trophies and prizes are for family team combinations, although other categories are also allowed. PHOTOS: FRANCOIS BENADE Family fishing fun FRANCOIS BENADE [email protected] The NAUZ (National Angling Union of Zimbabwe) Charara CAST tournament, hosted by Caravan Campers Angling Society (CCAS), aims to encourage junior angling by getting dad to give up his bass boat for one weekend a year and take the whole family out for a fishing and camping holiday at Charara, Kariba. CAST started some 24 years ago over an Easter weekend when a few families from CCAS decided to spend their annual camping trip at Charara. Naturally, every kid on the block claimed to have done something better than the next: ‘I caught the first one!’ ‘I caught the largest one!’ ‘I caught the smallest one!’ That sparked the first one-day competition that resulted in everyone getting something at the end of the day for their efforts. It was just so much fun that it had to be done again and again on an annual basis, and it did not take long before mom and dad got involved and turned it into a family vs family concept. Then they invited friends who eventually invited friends, and so on. Children are definitely part of the fun, and a pair of beauties Of course it all had to have some guidelines, mainly to create the competition categories so that every little one still stood a chance. This evolved over the last 24 years into the most popular CAST (better known as the Easter Family Fishing Competition). In this truly family event we have structured the competition over the years into so many categories that almost every young angler stands a chance of winning a prize (up to 10th place if we need to), even if it is our Special Effort Trophy, for someone who tried hard but did not actually manage to land a prize winning fish. Winners are presented with one of 43 floating trophies. Under 18s entered in a family team are automatically individually entered in one of four junior categories: ‘Small Fry,’ girls and boys aged 3-6 years old, ‘Juniors Girls’ or ‘Juniors Boys’ aged 7-12 and ‘Senior Girls and Boys’ 13-18. Family teams, bank angling teams, open teams, the whole lot - come and enjoy a long weekend camping at Kariba. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend KARIBA & MIDDLE ZAMBEZI ECOLOGY Crayfish invasion worries experts Alien crayfish have colonised Lake Kariba. Is this an ecological disaster in the making? 2 WIN 2013 MAR APR MAY 17 nights FOR TWO AT MUSANGO SAFARI CAMP Fresh water crayfish introduced from Australia are breeding out of control in the northern Lake Kariba, devouring the food sources of other fish and putting the nation’s entire aquatic ecosystem at risk. The red claw crayfish has no natural predators in the wild — crocodiles don’t like them — and cannot be poisoned without killing other natural species. As a conservation drive, Musango Safari Camp is launching Kariba Crayfish CREATE YOUR CRAYFISH RECIPE COMPETITION Submit your recipes with a catchy name & photo to: PHOTO: STEVE EDWARDS [email protected] Entries to be submitted by 1 December 2013 Winning entry to be included in the Musango Safari Camp cookbook See recipes n addition to a growing population of Australian Red Claw Crayfish in the eastern basin of Lake Kariba (ZT Issue 11 page 35, www.zambezitraveller.com download PDF or go to Kariba section) it is unclear whether another species, Cherax destructor is also breeding in the lake. Cherax destructor, a burrowing relative of the Red Claw, could potentially cause damage to the Lake’s hydroelectric infrastructure as it buries itself in the lake bed and banks. We don’t have the resources on the ground to license or police exploitation on the right scale at Kariba... The important thing right now is we don’t want people to introduce it elsewhere Chief Ecologist from the University of Zimbabwe’s Lake Kariba Research Institute, Crispin Phiri, has confirmed the rapid population growth of the Australian Red Claw crayfish, especially around areas near human habitation and near slipways and harbours. A lack of funding within the Institute has hampered thorough research into the infestation and the only feasible way of dealing with the issue seems to be commercial trapping. Despite the crayfish reaching prices around $9.00 per kg in shops, it is not yet a popular source of protein for local fishermen in the Lake Kariba area. Permits will be required to trap and sell the crayfish but it is unclear what the costs and regulations will be. There is potential danger that the crayfish will be illegally captured and relocated into freshwater areas nearer Harare and larger urban areas to facilitate supplying these markets. This could prove disastrous from an ecological standpoint as the crayfish has no predators in the wild, breeds quickly and voraciously devours live or decaying plant or animal matter to the detriment of local species. “We don’t have the resources on the ground to license or police exploitation on the right scale at Kariba,” says Phiri. “The important thing right now is we don’t want people to introduce it elsewhere.” An Island Paradise on Lake Kariba Creative problem-solving: preparing tasty meals using the invading crayfish. Pictured here is the Musango ‘Lake and Steak’ Zambezi Traveller invites comments and contributions on this issue: • Make it easy to catch and sell the product with minimum restrictions to quickly utilise and reduce populations? • Regulate the industry so that breeding is tightly controlled? Email your thoughts to the Editor, Frances Jackson [email protected] MORE ONLINE Musango ‘lake and steak’ recipe on Musango facebook page and at MUSANGO News Flash Steve Edwards from Musango is one of the Top 10 safari guides featured in The Daily Telegraph (UK), Ultratravel magazine. www.zambezitraveller.com Fishing Canoeing Game Drives Game Cruises Rhino Tracking Walking Safaris Dinosaur Fossils Tonga Cultural Village Sailing (morning, afternoon, and overnight available) Access by Air, Boat and Road. Reservations: +(263-13) 43358 Cell: +(263) 772 307 875 Email: [email protected] www. musangosafaricamp.com Zimbabwe’s iconic destination on Lake Kariba [email protected] www.bumihills.com +263 (0) 772 135 664 PHOTO: STEVE EDWARDS CHRISTOPHER SCOTT Musango and www.zambezitraveller.com – try them and comment Note from the Editor: Burning the midnight oil, preparing the last few pages of this beautiful Zambezi Traveller issue, Steve Edwards from Musango brightened my mood by sending me a beautiful photo from the shores of Lake Kariba, Friday 8th March 2012. I had to make room for this one of a baby elephant born earlier in the afternoon. Steve Edwards has just been featured in the Daily Telegraph, Ultratravel Magazine, Top 10 Safari Guides 18 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend KARIBA & MIDDLE ZAMBEZI NEWS Opening of spillway gates at the Kariba Dam ZAMBEZI RIVER AUTHORITY Water! Today, Tomorrow As a follow up to our February 2013 notice about the opening of the spillway gates, please be advised that two spillway gates will be opened at 50% each to CLASSIFIEDS FOOD SUPPLIERS BOATING McLine Canvas: For all your manufacture & repairs of all boating, safari & outdoor living accessories. Contact: McLine - +263 772 709 470 or + 263 61 2627, Stand 740 Chawara,Kariba Blue Waters at Andora Harbour: We offer beers & soft drinks on a sale or return basis, plus ice & fishing bait. Contact: [email protected] Hersov Tours discharge a total of about 1,500m3 per second. Date: Sunday, 17th March 2013 Time: 12.00hrs Gates: Two, open halfway This is aimed at lowering the Kariba HARBOURS Contact: Tendai / Seke Phone/Fax: +263 6 3625 Cell - + 263 773 923500 or Cell - +263 61 3625 E-mail - [email protected] [email protected] Dam are advised to take this notice seriously to avoid loss of life and property. Meanwhile, the authority will continue to monitor the weather and hydrological situation over the Zambezi catchment area upstream of the kariba dam. HARDWARE Endura Rubba Paints: For all your requirements of Dulux paints, lubricants, thinners, resin, fibreglass, filters, Eezipool products, V belts & accessories, tandem lawnmowers, Eureka DIY and more. Contact: Nikki – 0774 060 717, Tiri – 0775 965 547, Landline: 061 2325 Multi-fire Protection Systems P/L: Sales & services of fire extinguishers, fire alarms, plumbing for domestic, commercial and industrial. A member of Fire Prevention Inspection Bureau. Contact: +263 775 789 009; +263 775 067 937; +263 776 095 907. Email: [email protected] For more information contact: Zambezi River Authority Public Relations & Communications Unit: Tel: +260 211 230551 +260 211 227970/3, Mobile: +260 977318735 or +260977861818 Email: [email protected] Advertise in Kariba & Lower Zambezi Classifieds [email protected] +263 (0) 772 874 352 RESTAURANTS Chawara Harbour: Suppliers of all fuel, oils, drinks, ice, bait, biltong, dry wors & chilli bites. Contact: Colin or Debbie - Cell: +263 774 143 064, Phone: +263 61 3278 Email: [email protected] HOUSEBOATS TRANSFERS Harare - Kariba (Zimbabwe) Livingstone - Lusaka (Zambia) lake waters to within safe operating levels. The gates will remain open until the safe operating level has been achieved. All the stakeholders, the general public and communities along the Zambezi river downstream of the Kariba TOURS AND SAFARIS Avoca Marine Transfers: For all your lake transfers to various camps & lodges on Kariba’s lakeshore. Contact: John Biss email [email protected], Tel: + 263 61 2501, Cell: + 263 772 233 468 Harbour View Café: We offer delicious breakfasts, lunches and teatime treats. We also specialise in houseboat catering, birthdays & special occasions. Open: 8.00hrs – 2.00hrs, Monday – Friday. 8.00hrs – 1.00hrs on Saturdays. Andora Harbour, Kariba. Contact: Lynn or Cally Phone: +263 61 2923 Cell: +263 774 578 622 Email: karibahouseboatcruises@gmail. com THATCHING GRASS Thatching Grass Suppliers: Contact Derek Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell: +263 777 560 856; landline: +263 66 2595. Email: [email protected]. Website: http..//thatchinggrasssuppliers.webs.com Kariba Houseboats: August & December school holiday trips are being booked now. Don’t miss out by leaving your booking too late. Contact: Lonie at Zambezi Sunsets [email protected] TOURS AND SAFARIS Tiger Tournament: Book your houseboat requirements early to avoid disappointment. Contact: Lonie at Zambezi Sunsets [email protected] Sheer Magic Houseboat: Kariba, Zimbabwe. For a fantastic pontoon houseboat experience! Contact: Sonya McMaster +263 772 874 352 Email: [email protected] TRAINING Fishing, canoeing, game drives, game cruises, rhino tracking, walking safaris, dinosaur fossils, Tonga cultural village, sailing (morning, afternoon and overnight available), access by air, boat and road. Reservations: +263-13) 43358, Cell: +(263) 772 307 875 Email: [email protected] www.musangosafaricamp.com With over 30 years of experience in the industry, Mururu offers unparalleled training in the arts of hospitality. Front of house – waiters, barmen, hosts. Back of house – chefs, porters. Housekeeping. Contact Chooks Langerman. +263 778 8598914 / + 263 4 498325, mururutheartofhospitality@ gmail.com gokariba.com Houseboats, Catering, Accommodation & Transfers Experience a houseboat holiday with DRIFTER and MAKULU HOUSEBOAT CHARTERS Kariba, Zimbabwe Sonya McMaster email: [email protected] Tel: +263 772 874 352 Vans Harbour ,Kariba Email: [email protected] For This Is It & Nyati Houseboats, and many more! Contact: Kiara Hammond 0779 675 935 or office 0772 546 126 Phone: + 263 (0) 772 348 091 E-mail: [email protected] www.marineland.co.zw Your gateway to Kariba - Zimbabwe’s water and wildlife wonderland Houseboat charters, lake passenger & road transfers, speedboat hire, boat mooring, catering gas & fuel sales, ice & drinks supplies Contact Details Tel : 061 2845 / 2237 / 3115 Telefax : 3134 Bookings: [email protected] Cell: 0712 209 631 or 0773923 500 | [email protected] Cell: 0773 923 516 Drinks Orders: [email protected] Cell: 0712 630 994 | Harbourmaster: [email protected] Cell: 0712 200 710 Accounts: [email protected] Cell: 0772 333 520 or 0712 632 834 | General Manager: [email protected] We run an efficient Road Transfer from Lusaka Airport to Marineland Harbour on comfortable Air Conditioned Buses Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend KARIBA & MIDDLE ZAMBEZI 2013 MAR APR MAY 19 Welcome back, lions! LYNNE BRANNINGAN www.mvuulodge.com The Lower Zambezi is a wildlife paradise. The area hosts an abundance of elephants, monkeys, baboons, hippos and crocodiles all year round, but recently staff and guests at Mvuu Lodge have been privileged with rare and wonderful sightings of a pride of lions lazing around in the sun. Mvuu is situated in a Game Management Area and as we are not far from the Lower Zambezi Park we guessed that the lions might have moved from the park. Last year our staff spotted tracks which suggested two young lions walking through the camp site in the evening, strolling down to the water, and back again. Guests Nic and Lauren Chalmers were fortunate to spot the pride drinking from the river while they were fish- ing one morning; the accompanying picture is one of their photos taken from their boat. Since these first special sightings we have often heard the lions at night and many more sightings have been reported along the road to the park or back to Chirundu. These truly are magnificent, regal creatures and we feel so honoured to have them on our doorstep. We hope and pray that the ‘King of Beasts’ will be nurtured for future generations to appreciate. An exciting safari, with a rare lion sighting PHOTO: LAUREN CHALMERS WILDLIFE CONSERVATION Painted Dogs: Fast and efficient predators TAMLYN SMITH Mana Pools was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. At the time of inscription, two of the criteria listed as justifying its designation were: 1. The annual congregation of animals in riparian parkland alongside the Zambezi constitutes one of Africa’s outstanding wildlife spectacles. 2. The area is one of the most important refuges for a number of species considered to be threatened. As one of the threatened species inhabiting Mana Pools National Park, the painted dog PHOTO: TAMLYN SMITH www.africanbushcamps.com Team work makes for an efficient kill Their success lies in their ability to communicate with each other through vocalizations, and to kill and devour quickly to avoid scavenging competitors (African wild dog) population is thriving in this relatively untouched environment, and the area retains an important population stronghold for the species. The resident pack habituating Kanga Camp - named the Kanga pack by Dr Greg Rasmussen while he was conducting research in the area - has particularly excelled in predatory skills. Painted dogs are highly successful hunters. As one of the fastest and most efficient of Africa’s predators, they generally maintain a relatively low profile to draw as little attention as possible from stronger predator species. Their success lies in their ability to communicate with each other through vocalizations, and to kill and devour quickly to avoid scavenging competitors. For their prey, this efficient method of killing actually shortens the suffering of the individual. 20 MAR APR MAY 2013 KARIBA & MIDDLE ZAMBEZI Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend PHOTOS: CHRISTOPHER SCOTT WETLANDS Waterbuck and wetlands at Mana Pools National Park, Zimbabwe RAMSAR includes Zimbabwean wetlands CHRISTOPHER SCOTT www.ramsar.org n 3 May 2013 seven Zimbabwean wetland areas will be listed as Wetlands of International Importance within the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands. The sites to be designated are: Mana Pools, Monavale Vlei (in Harare), Victoria Falls National Park, Lake Chivero and Manyame Dam, Driefontein Grasslands (near Chivu), Chinoyi Caves and Cleveland Dam (Harare). The inclusion of the seven sites into the Ramsar convention follows a visit by a team from Ramsar in October last year where several of the proposed sites where visited. In February 2013 a delegation led by Ramsar Secretary General Anada Tiega visited Monavale Vlei in Harare to commemorate the landmark and celebrate 2013 World Wetlands Day. Zimbabwe’s Minister of Environment and Natural Resources Management, Francis Nhema, as reported in local press, highlighted the importance of wetland conservation and the wider role they play. ‘Wetlands deliver essential environmental, social and economic goods and services such as local level climate control, flood mitigation, food and act as regulators and providers of water. The link between water resources management and the wise use of wetlands cannot be separated.’ Lesley Maasdorp from The Zambezi Society has identified several biodiversity projects within Mana Pools that could be implemented through the new Ramsar incorporation, which will look at identifying and studying the biodiversity of the river frontage and inland springs such as Chitake, research into the biodiverse dry forest area that runs through the middle of the Zambezi Valley as well as a study on Lilian’s Lovebirds in the Zambezi Valley. Zimbabwe is the 164th country to join the Ramsar Convention protecting 2,098 wetland areas covering an area of over 205 million hectares. Neighbouring countries Botswana and Zambia are both existing members of the Convention. Zambia has listed eight sites of international importance, including the Zambezi (Barotse) Floodplains, Bangweulu Swamps, Kafue Flats and Luangwa Flood Plains. Botswana has listed just one site - the Okavango Delta. Join Award winning photographer on a photographic safari workshop in some of southern Africa’s best wildlife destinations and hone you’re photographic skills! .BOB1PPMTt-BLF,BSJCBt)XBOHF/BUJPOBM1BSLt4PVUI-VBOHXB/BUJPOBM1BSL 4FSFOHFUJ1SFEBUPS4BGBSJ5BO[BOJB t.BTBJ.BSB.JHSBUJPO4BGBSJ,FOZB [email protected] www.funphotographywild.com FACT file Wetlands and RAMSAR SOURCE ENVIRONMENT AFRICA’S GREENLINE MAGAZINE What are wetlands? Wetlands vary according to origin, geography, water regime, chemistry, vegetation and soil characteristics. The term wetland has only come into use since the 1960s, and has generally come to mean any area of land of which the soil is permanently or temporally flooded with water - but definitions of wetlands vary. The Ramsar Convention takes a broad approach in determining wetlands as: “areas of marsh, fen, peatland or water, whether natural or artificial, permanent or temporary, with water that is static or flowing, fresh, brackish or salt, including areas of marine water the depth of which at low tide does not exceed six metres.” Why are wetlands important? The natural benefits and value of wetlands can include sediment and erosion control; flood control; maintenance of surface and underground water supply and quality; abatement of pollution and even contributions to climatic stability. Wetlands are among the most productive life-support systems in the world and are of immense socio-economic and ecological importance to mankind. They are critical for the maintenance of biodiversity and perform a great role in the biosphere. Wetlands are also hot spots of biological diversity, providing the water and primary productivity upon which countless species of plants and animals depend for survival. They support high concentrations of birds, mammals, reptiles, amphibians, fish and invertebrate species. Wetlands are also important storehouses of plant genetic material. Rice, for example, which is a common wetland plant, is the staple diet of more than half of humanity. Wetlands provide tremendous wider economic benefits: water supply (quantity and quality); fisheries; agriculture; timber production; energy resources, such as peat and plant matter; wildlife resources; transport; and recreation and tourism opportunities. What is the Ramsar Convention? The ‘Convention on Wetlands of International Importance, especially as Wildfowl Habitat’, is an international treaty adopted at the International Conference on Conservation of Wetlands and Waterfowl held at Ramsar, Iran, in 1971. The Convention came into force in 1975 and whilst it is still officially referred to as ‘The Convention on Wetlands (Ramsar, Iran, 1971)’, it soon became widely known as the ‘Ramsar Convention’. The mission of the Ramsar Convention, as adopted by the Parties in 1999 and refined in 2002, is “the conservation and wise use of all wetlands through local, regional and national actions and international cooperation, as a contribution towards achieving sustainable development throughout the world.” By recognising the importance of wetland resources, the Convention has been instrumental in worldwide action at the governmental level for conservation and wise use of wetlands. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend KARIBA & MIDDLE ZAMBEZI 2013 MAR APR MAY 21 CONSERVATION ANIMAL SCIENCE PHOTO: CONSERVATION LOWER ZAMBEZI A confusion of stripes When it comes to the zebra’s stripes, it’s not all black and white… PETER ROBERTS he stripes of the zebra’s coat are one of the most distinctive and recognisable of all African animals. For many years scientists have hypothesised as to their purpose – temperature regulation, camouflage, or even to confuse predators - stripes of bunched, racing zebra were thought to confuse large carnivores. However, whilst recent research has provided evidence that the stripes deter biting insects, confusion over the zebra’s stripes is not just limited to their function, but also form. The genus Equus, to which the zebra belongs, consists of six species, four of which are found in Africa. There are three recognised species of zebra; the plains zebra formerly known as Equus burchelli; the mountain zebra E. zebra found only in South Africa and possibly into Nambia; and Grevy’s zebra E. Grevyi confined to a limited area of northern Kenya. The fourth member of the family is E. africanus, the African wild ass, the source stock of all domestically bred donkeys and asses. PHOTO: TOM VARLEY www.ecoelements.co.uk populations in some cases merit classification as different races or subspecies, and many subspecies have been proposed, accepted or rejected over the years, leading to revisions to common and scientific names and resulting in some degree of confusion all round. The southernmost races, Equus burchelli antiquorum and E. b. burchelli are identified by their shadow stripes and unstriped lower legs. The extinct quagga, E. quagga, is now also thought to be a subspecies related to this group. The quagga was ...the key to which is the identification of differing physical characteristics, sometimes more subtle than the arrangement of the zebra’s stripes. This has led researchers to studying even the teeth of zebra in order to distinguish them The three zebra species can be separated by differences in their coats. The plains zebra shows wide regional variation in its stripes over its extensive African range. The northern populations are the most completely and boldly striped, whilst southern populations exhibit faded brown ‘shadow stripes,’ and all sorts of variation in between. The mountain zebra has no shadow stripes, with the main body stripes set close together and fully striped legs. Grevy’s zebra has a larger head and ears compared to the body, and close narrow body stripes without shadow stripes, with a stripe along the spine. Variations in stripe patterns, and other characteristics, within plains zebra the first extinct species to have its DNA analysed, the results of which suggested it was a subspecies and should thus be named Equus burchelli quagga. However, according to the rules of biological nomenclature, as the quagga was described about thirty years earlier Zebra at Mana Pools National Park, Middle Zambezi than Burchell’s zebra, it takes precedence as the species name, so the plains zebra’s name was revised from Equus burchelli to Equus quagga, and the quagga thus became E. quagga quagga. To complicate the situation further, the Burchell’s subspecies, now known as E. quagga burchelli, which was thought be extinct, was rediscovered by scientists in small populations in Zululand and Natal, South Africa. The previously named Damara zebra, E. q. antiquorum, known from Etosha in Nambia, was found to also match this type, and the two have thus been merged under one subspecies. Again the earlier name takes precedence over the later, so the two became united as E. q. burchelli. Several other subspecies of Equus quagga are recognised; Chapman’s zebra, E. q. chapmani, occurs from northeastern South Africa north into Zimbabwe, and west into Botswana, the Namibian Caprivi Strip and southern Angola. Grant’s zebra, E. q. boehmi, is distributed west of the Luangwa River in Zambia, west to Kariba and northwards into the Democratic Republic of Congo, Tanzania, Kenya and Ethiopia. In 1992 it was proposed that another subspecies be recognised, E. q. zambeziensis, the Upper Zambezi zebra. However further research concluded that this proposed subspecies did not merit full subspecies status and they remain within the Grant’s subspecies group. Another subspecies is also sometimes recognised by researchers - Selous’ zebra, E. q. selousi, occurring in Eastern Zimbabwe and western Mozambique. Crawshay’s zebra, E. q. crawshayi, (see page 46), occurs east of the Luangwa River in Zambia, Malawi, southeastern Tanzania and northern Mozambique. Finally the northernmost subspecies, the maneless zebra, E. q. borensis, ranges from Uganda north to Kenya into the Sudan. As can be appreciated, separating zebra subspecies is the subject of much debate, the key to which is the identification of differing physical characteristics, sometimes more subtle than the arrangement of the zebra’s stripes. This has led researchers to studying even the teeth of zebra in order to distinguish them. Crawshay’s zebra is separated from other subspecies by the lack of an infundibulum – a depressed cavity also known as the dental cup in the top of the tooth. Which is all very well, if you are a veterinary dentist, but of limited use in the field! Peter feeding hungry little Douglas Orphan hippo rescued SARAH DAVIES www.virginmoneygiving.com/clz A baby hippo estimated to be about two weeks old is Conservation Lower Zambezi’s (CLZ) newest team member. Christened Douglas (although hippos are notoriously difficult to sex), the calf was observed by CLZ for several hours by boat, completely alone and in distress on the Zambezi River. When a female hippo nears the time to give birth, she leaves the pod for one to two weeks to give birth and bond with the calf. Without his mother for protection from predators, Douglas would almost certainly not have survived the night. Hippo have been identified as a vulnerable species on the IUCN Red List drawn up by the World Conservation Union, with an estimated global population of between 125,000 and 150,000, a decline of between 7% and 20% since the IUCN’s 1996 study. Zambia (40,000) and Tanzania (20,000–30,000) possess the largest hippo populations. Although hippos seem common in the Lower Zambezi, it’s important not to forget that we have the privilege of being home to one of the world’s densest populations. These hippo face the challenge of habitat loss and poaching, which is on the increase. These animals are in need of protection as hippo meat rises in popularity. Settled in his new temporary home complete with plunge pool, which is cleaned and refilled each day, Douglas is now feeding from a bottle with a formula put together with the advice of various experts. Every three hours Douglas is fed 1.25 litres of milk with two egg yolks and supplements. His skin is hydrated with aqueous cream, kept away from direct sunlight and all equipment is sterilised thoroughly. CLZ has employed four carers to ensure that Douglas has 24-hour supervision as well as maintaining his pen as a safe and comfortable space for him. After the elephant and white rhino, the hippo is the heaviest land mammal and soon Douglas will grow too large for his current enclosure and will be very expensive to feed and look after. Hippos can grow over 4m in length and 1.6m tall. They can live for up to 45 years, with males reaching maturity at about 9-11 years old and females at 7-9 years old. Hippo babies can be nursed for up to 18 months, when they then start to feed on grass. Like any animal CLZ assists, we hope that Douglas can be released back into the wild when he reaches maturity. The Zambia Wildlife Authority will ultimately decide Douglas’s future; meantime, CLZ will appreciate any assistance to continue looking after him. Zimbabwe 22 BULAWAYO On your way to the Zambezi ISSUE 11 FOR IPAD APP ONLY RESEARCH & CONSERVATION Eagle study holds world record CECILIA HUBBARD www.birdlifezimbabwe.co.zw ur story begins with a game ranger, W R Thomson, who was stationed in the Rhodes Matopos National Park in 1959-60. Thomson was impressed by the number of black eagle pairs he observed whilst monitoring the area for which he was responsible. The scientific name for this bird is Aquila verreauxii; recently renamed as the Verreaux’s eagle. When he left the Matobo Hills, Thomson provided his records for the use of the Department of National Parks. He had compiled a list of 37 nest sites, or eyries, of which 35 were within the Park. In 1961, Carl Vernon, a student teacher in Bulawayo, obtained Thomson’s list and set out to locate the eyries listed by Thomson, also recording the eyries of additional pairs he observed whilst checking the known pairs. Vernon, like Thomson before him, numbered each nest, and also recorded a map reference, as well as adding references for Thomson’s nests. By the end of 1964, Vernon and Matabeleland Branch members of the (then) Rhodesian Ornithological Society, had recorded a total of 68 nest sites. In 1963 and 1964, Valerie Gargett accompanied Vernon on some of his trips into the Matopos, adding and another skilled naturalist to the tale. At end of 1964, Vernon left Bulawayo, and in 1965, under the leadership of Gargett, the Matabeleland Branch of the Ornithological Society took responsibility for the survey. The society is now known as BirdLife Zimbabwe. Today, the survey is still being conducted following the format and guidelines introduced by Gargett. The survey is conducted with the permission of the Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, and a research permit is obtained every year. The survey runs from March to November annually, with volunteer teams having to submit reports by specific dates. The results of the survey are compiled and published in The Honeyguide, the journal of BirdLife Zimbabwe. The results over the years have shown breeding success of the eagles to be variable, with unconfirmed reasons for these variations. As is the law of nature, every year when we think we may have found a reason, something else happens that sends us back to the drawing board. It has been established that the hyrax (commonly known as the dassie) is the main prey of the black eagle. To try and anticipate the survival and continued success of the species, BirdLife Matabeleland Branch conducts an annual hyrax population census in May of each year. The same teams which monitor the eagles carry out this census. This survey began as, PHOTO : THE LATE HARRY ERWEE 2013 is the 50th anniversary of the annual Black Eagle Survey in the Matobo Hills outside Bulawayo, Zimbabwe, making this the longest running survey of its kind in the world. Magnificent black eagle in flight and still is, a population and breeding study. It is still being carried out entirely by volunteer members of BirdLife Zimbabwe – Matabeleland Branch, and remains the longest standing continuous survey of its kind in the world. I close with the words with which Gargett ended her book: The Black Eagle – A study (1990): “It is intended to continue the Breeding Survey for as long as circumstances and the availability of helpers permit.” FACT file The Black Eagle Breeding Survey • Matobo Hills has the highest concentration of black eagles per square kilometre in the world. • All eagle species are protected in Zimbabwe. • The high number of black eagle pairs in Matobo allows a realistic ‘replacement rate’ per pair to be determined for this species. • March each year: Volunteer teams briefed. Each team is allocated black eagle nest and hyrax population census sites. • 2013: 12 teams will monitor 104 known nest sites within 78 territories in approx 620 kms² survey area, and 20 hyrax colony sites. • April/May: 1st reporting period. Teams check all nest sites for occupancy and breeding attempts ie: mating, nest rebuilding and lining with greenery, incubating. • May: Hyrax population census conducted to determine if the eagles’ main prey base is stable. • June/July: 2nd reporting period. Teams return to occupied sites and check if a chick present. • August/October: 3rd reporting period. Teams check if the chick has successfully fledged. • December: Prepare results for publication in BirdLife Zimbabwe journal Honeyguide, send submission to Department of National Parks and Wildlife Management Authority. • ‘Replacement rate’: determined by the number of pairs which have attempted to breed and the success rate of these attempts. • Three visits and submission of reports are mandatory. HISTORY History written in stone PAUL HUBBARD Archaeologist and guide Paul Hubbard’s new book, co-authored with Mark Igoe, Zimbabwe: A Simple History, is available from Amazon.com exclusively as an ebook. [email protected] Our services w1>105@41>105@4@4181-@41>.>-:0;2& ,!%! !"#!&%$ #%#!% + $%% %# ( w?4;C>;;91D45.5@5:3;A>8521?5F19;A:@? 1>105@41>105@481-@41><>;0A/@?-:0 B->5;A?2>5/-:/->B5:3?/A>5;?-:0<-5:@5:3? w-<81>1534@&p??5?@1>/;9<-:EC588 #%*!&#%#!"$(%!% %%! &$%!$$#' & #$% !% & % &$%#* "$! !"" "!%&')" ' + ++ + +( !%$"!%"*'$"#%"*' Stone bird baths. It seems that almost any house in the suburbs of Bulawayo has at least one, usually and strategically placed under the garden tap or artfully arranged in the flower bed. Many people know that these stones had something to do with food preparation, but few ever consider the fascinating history hidden in their unprepossessing appearance. Known as lower grinding stones, these were instrumental in converting unappetising grains into a powdery meal that could be used to make porridge, griddle cakes, pan- cakes – the list goes on. There are two types of lower grinding stones that are simple for anyone to tell apart. Soft sorghum and millet grains were prepared with an upper stone held in one hand, that pressed the grains against the sides of a long narrow groove. Maize kernels are too hard for this treatment, so people (usually the women) would use a heavier upper stone held with two hands to grind against a wide, flat surface, dished to catch the pips. So that ‘birdbath’ lying under the tap has a bit of history behind it after all. Often such items are all that mark the locations of long-lost villages and I would like to ask that people do not collect them as mementoes or garden features. This is against the law, but as importantly, valuable information about a piece of the puzzle that is our past is lost forever. Rather report your find, with appropriate in- PHOTO : PAUL HUBBARD #!"* ! $&% %$ %# %! !$%$!'# *#$! #%(#%$%#*)"# "#$%$ !##"#!&%! & #$% $%%"#$#' %!#$!*!&#& %$"#!& %%!%$!'# $&$$'%!#!&#$#'%! $&#(!-# %$%"!$$$!&%! !#*!&$%& %# ' %#!#'!"($! ! * !-# &# !$#'$%!%% & %#$ '& $ Grinding stone used for millet formation about location and site conditions, to the nearest museum. MORE ONLINE Continue reading the history of these grinding stones and the food that was ground on them. www.zambezitraveller.com 24 MAR APR MAY 2013 VICTORIA FALLS Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend JEWELLERY Bright lights and Hollywood hills theschereport.wordpress.com www.ndaujewelry.com s the plane touched down at Victoria Falls airport, I looked out at the beautiful lush bushveld and felt a bizarre sense of dislocation. It was a whirlwind two and half a weeks away and it was good to be home. The Ndau Collection was invited to attend MAGIC in Las Vegas as Emerging Accessories Designers, so I packed my bags and headed off to the bright lights, to represent the only African brand at the entire show of over 5,000 brands. MAGIC is the biggest tradeshow in the United States and over the three days I learnt so much: - Walking distance in Vegas is longer than African walking distance when you’re carrying 20 kgs of stock! - 100,000 people visiting the show in three days is a number almost impossible to comprehend. - The guy who owns the Sausage Fest lunch truck knows what wors rolls are and was a little touch of home in the middle of all the neon madness. - Cirque du Soleil are the most incredible acrobats in the world and if it’s the last thing you do, you have to see ‘O’ at the Bellagio. Fierce Traveller, Scott Goetz. His beautiful Africaninspired home was a haven to me in the middle of Oscar week and I fell in love with Lord Byron and Mr Ripley, his beautiful dogs. I also learnt: - It’s a lot of fun to cruise down Rodeo Drive in a Porsche Boxter, then pop into Bvlgari to view Elizabeth Taylor’s jewellery collection from Richard Burton. Statement necklace from the conservation collection found out that we have every right to be proud of the products we make in our small studio. To have top fashionistas ask how we achieve our amazing finish on our silver and to be able to reply ‘It’s because we do it the African way,’ made my trip. African luxury is making its mark on the international market and we’re more than able to take our place. I packed my bags and headed off to the bright lights, to represent the only African brand at the entire show of over 5,000 brands. - You never know who you might meet – I literally bumped into my all-time favourite blogger and stylista Margaret Sche of The Sche Report and an amazing friendship has arisen from my clumsiness! From Las Vegas, I hopped over to Los Angeles to stay with our good friend, The - French bulldogs wear tuxedos on Oscar night in LA. - The kindness of chance-met friends is overwhelming and never more apparent than when you’re far from home. - Mashti Malones make the most delicious lavender ice cream you have ever eaten. Most importantly, I A small but dedicated team of leather craftsmen who provide a timeless leather product designed to last the ages. We strive to create unique hand-crafted, durable and elegant, genuine leather products. crocodile, elephant and hippo leather Elephants Walk Shopping Village, or the African Renaissance shop in the Victoria Falls Hotel [email protected] Christie Brookstein in the home of her host in LA Scott Goetz PHOTO : NDAU COLLECTION, INSERT : COURTESY OF THE THE SCHE REPORT CHRISTIE BROOKSTEIN Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend VICTORIA FALLS 2013 MAR APR MAY 25 INVESTMENT As part of the agreement, the property will now become known as ‘The www.stanleyandlivingstone.com Stanley and Livingstone Private Game Reserve’, www.raniresorts.com comprising The Stanley www.mantiscollection.com and Livingstone Safari Lodge and Ursula’s Camp which have both undergone significant enhancements. ani Resorts, Plans are in place to owner of highend resorts across increase the size of the Mozambique and reserve to avail of a wider game viewing area, alongside Zimbabwe, has the building of a dayentered into an agreement centre for visitors staying with Mantis Management, in Victoria Falls, while a the management division of refurbished on-site research five-star hotel operator The centre will accommodate Mantis Collection, to manconservation and educational age its Zimbabwe property, programmes. The Stanley and LivingNew guest packages have stone, situated 10 minutes been developed comprising from Victoria Falls. ZT CORRESPONDENT in-house game drives, dinner, bed and breakfast as well as a choice of activities both on the private game reserve and in the Victoria Falls area. The Victorian-style Stanley and Livingstone Safari Lodge, judged the leading lodge in Zimbabwe for three consecutive years by the World Travel Awards, has been rebranded from ‘The Stanley and Livingstone at Victoria Falls’ to the Stanley and Livingstone Private Game Reserve. The private game reserve is also home to Ursula’s Camp, which offers a more intimate bush camp experience to the adventurous DEVELOPMENT Batoka Gorge, to be or not to be? PETER ROBERTS www.zambezitraveller.com managing director, Cyprian Chitun, said fresh technical and environmental studies will be conducted before the actual construction begins. ‘An expression of interest was tendered in the press to look for consultants to review the study that was conducted in 1992. We need to ensure that the feasibility study is brought up to speed,’ local sources reported. ZRA public relations and communications manager, Elizabeth Karonga, confirmed the authority was waiting for a new updated Environmental Impact Assessment report before commencing construction of the dam. In January 2013, ministers from Zambia and Zimbabwe met in Victoria Falls to discuss the development of the project. Already road infrastructure works to the dam site on the Zimbabwe side are well on their way to completion. MORE ONLINE Read more about the history of the Batoka Gorge Dam project www.zambezitraveller.com SOURCE: WILD HORIZONS At the end of 2012 the Zambezi River Authority invited expressions of interest from companies interested in tendering for the development of the Batoka Gorge Hydro Electric Scheme, a joint initiative by the governments of Zambia and Zimbabwe and supported with funding from the World Bank. Sources expect the project to commence this year and reach completion by 2019. Details of the proposed dam design were summarised in the invitation document as being a 181m high gravity arch dam with two underground power stations carrying four 200 MW turbines and giving a total capacity of 1,600 MW. The reservoir formed by the dam will be contained within the Batoka Gorge and is predicted to have a relatively small surface area of 26km2 and a water level of 762m above sea level. The location for the dam on the Zambezi River 54km downstream of the Victoria Falls is given as 18º 1’ S 26º 34’ E. Zambezi River Authority chief executive officer, Engineer Munyaradzi Munodawafa, was reported by media sources as saying that the Batoka project was expected to have a positive socioeconomic impact on people from the two countries. ‘We are looking at the economic benefit locals are going to derive from the project,’ he was quoted as saying. A few months prior to the announcement of the tender process an American hydrologist criticised the proposed plans for the Batoka Gorge Dam and Mphanda Nkuwa Dam (also on the Zambezi, in Mozambique) for being based on archived hydrological data which had not been re-evaluated for potential climate change risks, including regional drought, reduced flows and increased risk of extreme flooding events. The original technical, legal and environmental feasibility studies were carried out in the early 1990s. Zambia’s power utility The reservoir formed by the dam will be contained within the Batoka Gorge explorer. The game reserve is unique for remaining the only Big Five reserve in the Victoria Falls area. The Stanley and Livingstone Safari Lodge had a soft upgrade as well as structural refurbishments. Ursula’s Camp has had a complete facelift with all the rooms being structurally rebuilt and refurnished. The Student and Research Centre is a completely refurbished building accommodating 22 students, management and coordinators. Mantis’s growing portfolio in this part of Africa includes the Zambezi Queen, which sails the waters of the Chobe River. SOURCE: MANTIS COLLECTION Mantis to manage Rani property Lodge exterior and pool 26 MAR APR MAY 2013 HISTORY ZT CORRESPONDENT Bringing history to life Events are taking place around the world this year to commemorate the birth of David Livingstone two hundred years ago on 19 March. In Victoria Falls, Russell Gammon the master storyteller, is bringing this famous explorer back to life. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend VICTORIA FALLS www.russellgammon.com www.victoria-falls-safari-lodge.com Russell Gammon Russell Gammon has been a professional guide for 25 years, leading safaris throughout south and east Africa. He has always been a keen historian and has shared his enthusiasm with his guests. Their response led him to include the history of Africa into his guided packages. Gammon was inspired by the late David Rattray who shared the story of the Anglo-Zulu war with visitors in South Africa. Rattray pioneered a new style of epic storytelling to bring the past to life in a way that educated and entertained audiences like never before. The extraordinary life of David Livingstone has dramatic potential and is closely associated with Victoria Falls. Gammon researched Livingstone’s life and his expertise quickly became sought after for groups visiting Victoria Falls. This bi-centenary year Gammon is partnering with Victoria Falls Safari Lodge to make this experience available to a wider audience. Visitors can book to hear Livingstone’s compelling story between 08.30 and 09.30 daily at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge, with the price including a return transfer from anywhere in town. Bookings can be made at your local hotel desk or from your preferred tour operator. EXHIBITION RETOSA Women in Art Exhibition at Victoria Falls Safari Lodge Events for all tastes Date: 4 May 2013 Time: 16.00hrs to 18.00hrs Entrance fee: USD2.00 Money raised will go towards Rock of a Community (ROAC), a prorgramme designed to educate and train vulnerable woman and their children, run by Sharon Parry. ZT CORRESPONDENT Alison Baker Long time resident of Victoria Falls, and wildlife conservation champion, Baker, gives the world a glimpse of her phenomenal art. Kerry Bradford Bradford grew up in Nepal in the city of Kathmandu and travelled much of the world as a young child,allowing her to compile the extensive visual mental library that inspires her art. She studied Fine Art in Bristol (UK) before moving to Zimbabwe in 1991, and has lived in Victoria Falls ever since with her husband and three children. Her work combines all the languages of art – line, texture, colour, sculpture, form, tone and composition, all woven together to create her unique art. Sharon Parry Parry has made herself a name in the art exhibition sponsored by the European Union and supported by the African Arts Trust in 2012. The art competition produced high-end artworks which saw the awarding of prizes in all media categories proving a tough nut to crack for the adjudicators of the tightly contested platform.For the ever popular multimedia three-dimensional works, Sharon Parry scooped the first with “Sheilah”. Sharon will show her amazing sculptures in Victoria Falls on 4 May 2012. Bettina Kelly Kelly was born in Germany, but fell in love with Africa the first time she visited in 1999. In 2001 she moved to Kasane, Botswana, where she has lived since with her husband and two daughters, three horses, one cat, one African grey parrot and her four dogs. Apart from her Passion for mosaics, Bettina’s other passion is animals. Please find some of her Mosaic Art Work on www.facebook.com/MosaicBits Note: At the time of going to press the full profile of participating artists was unavailable. Above is a selection of exhibitors. January and February saw thousands from across the globe make their way to the region to take part in events hosted by Regional Tourism Organisation of Southern Africa member states. Seychelles hosted the annual ‘Carnaval International de Victoria’ under the theme ‘A Melting Pot of Cultures,’ with La Reunion, Madagascar and Zimbabwe joining in as co-hosts of the event. Carnival delegations and tourists from around the globe descend on Seychelles annually to fly their country flags and enjoy the magnificent beauty that the islands have to offer. RETOSA, Boundless Southern Africa, Botswana, Lesotho, Mozambique, Namibia, Seychelles and Swaziland co-exhibited at the 2013 Meetings Africa event, while Malawi, Zambia and Zimbabwe had independent stands. Nokwanda Dlamini of Swaziland Tourism Authority was particularly pleased with the success. “Given the prescheduled appointments and good quality buyers that we saw, Meetings Africa provided a dynamic platform for Swaziland,” she said. “We definitely achieved our objectives for coming to this fair.” This March, Malawi celebrates Martyrs Day, commemorating its historic uprising against British colonial rule, while neighbours Tanzania host their Kilimanjaro Marathon on the same day. For those with a flair for extreme sport, Botswana hosts its annual Sky Diving Event in Gaborone and Kasane respectively. Athletes may also head to Lesotho for the annual Tour de Lesotho Mountain Biking Race and the Durham Link Canoe Race, or the Mozambiquan Go Fish Jet Ski Festival in Ponta do Ouro – dates to be confirmed. Other events include the Fête de la Francophonie and the Journée International de la Francophonie both in Seychelles. On 31 March visitors can make their way to the Maseru Bazaar, where tourism related SMME’s, crafters and artists produce and sell their art. Continuing with the theme of arts and culture, Zambia will host its Kuomboka Ceremony, a traditional ceremony of the Lozi people, and the International Cultural Festival which draws participation from over 15 countries as part of the Dr David Livingstone Bicentenary Celebrations. One stop ground handling and activity provider Where three countries meet on the banks of the Zambezi Victoria Falls | Livingstone | Chobe Tours, transfers and activities White water rafting | Canoeing | Hirewire | Elephant back safaris | Lion encounters | Helicopter flips. Accommodation Elephant Camp - Luxury accommodation overlooking the gorge. Imbabala Safari Lodge - Comfortable accommodation, good fishing, great game viewing on the banks of the Zambezi. Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571, 42013, 44426 or 44282 Cell: +263 (0) 712 213 721 or + 263 (0) 772 209 118 Email: [email protected] or [email protected] www.wildhorizons.co.za 28 MAR APR MAY 2013 VICTORIA FALLS Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend RECYCLING ‘Let’s make this work’ MANA MEADOWS [email protected] he mammoth fourphase recycling project is still in its infancy, but 3,000,000 cans have already been collected in Victoria Falls through a combination of mining the town dump and mobilising communities to deposit their cans. Plastics, paper and glass are also being collected by Africa Recycling Management, partnered with Delta Beverages. “Under the Environmental Management Act, Delta is under certain obligations to clear up our environment because they are importing cans. They pass on that responsibility to us as their partners to clean the environment,” says managing director of ARM, Phil Palermo. The Victoria Falls Town Council has allocated 6,000m2 of land for the ARM plant where collection, separation, crushing and shredding will take place. Further down the line ARM hopes to set up factories where plastics and other waste could be recycled on site. For now, cans need to be recycled in South Africa while paper, glass and plastics will be transported elsewhere in Zimbabwe for recycling. The first phase – collection – began in November 2012 and will gather momentum once enough colourcoded bins and waste cages have been spread around the town and the education of communities can begin After 109 years still the finest dining in Victoria Falls The Livingstone Room Enjoy a special evening of dinner and dancing with Edwardian elegance in the prestigious Livingstone Room. Savour a classic seven course tasting menu complimented by a se co comprehensive selection of imported wines and liquers. Jungle Junction Continental and full english breakfast is served in the morning and in the evening lavish buffets infused with the flavours of Africa and traditional African cultural entertainment will delight you. Perfect for groups or individuals alike and value for money. ® Telephone: +263-13-44751-61 Mobile: +263 772 132 174 or +263 772 132 175 Email: [email protected] www.victoriafallshotel.com in earnest. Victoria Falls is the pilot scheme because of the United Nations World Tourism Organisation meeting in August. “We need to ensure that our tourists see the right side of Zimbabwe,” says Palermo. “But there are other factors too, such as concerns for people’s health and the environment, and ARM will be developing the project nationwide.” In Victoria Falls the business centres and other highdensity areas will be provided with bins or cages where peo- PHOTOS: MANA MEADOWS Recently formed Africa Recycling Management Company, in partnership with Delta Beverages, is using Victoria Falls as a pilot project to roll out a national programme to mobilise Zimbabweans to start separating their waste for recycling. ‘I want this to be sustainable and I want this to be a long-term solution to Zimbabwe’s environmental problems.’ – Phil Palermo, managing director of Africa Recycling Management ple can dump their waste according to material. Hotels, lodges and safari camps will use a mixture of refuse bags and various types of bins and cages. “Council will continue doing their job of collecting – but where it’s difficult or impossible we will collect from these points. I’ve been around to many of the hotels already and basically we have a working plan. The Town Council, local people, hotels, NGOs, residents’ associations – everyone is very eager to make this work.” Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend VICTORIA FALLS 2013 MAR APR MAY 29 ENVIRONMENT Rolling out the green carpet The oldest hotel in Victoria Falls recently embarked on an initiative to reduce its carbon footprint by managing its general waste prior to disposal and recycling. Will this be the start of something big in Victoria Falls? www.victoriafallshotel.com he Victoria Falls Hotel started recycling the kitchen wet waste through the hotel’s worm farm units early in 2012. Now all dry waste in the form of cans, glass, paper and plastic is being separated and prepared for collection by the newly formed company, African Recycling Management (ARM). Trainee students at the hotel drive the initiative, organizing the separation of waste into colour-coded bins according to material. ARM then collect the waste to deliver to their depot for further sorting. “It’s really taken off in the last few months,” says Farai Chimba, deputy general manager. “We’ve been getting more team members involved in greening issues. The main thing has been to show people that it’s much more than just recycling – it’s also looking at sustainable ways of using our resources. People assume that ‘going green’ is up to the Environment Africas and the NGOs in the community. So we want to train our own staff to become ambassadors in the community, educating them so there’s more involvement in the day-to-day management of waste.” “It’s sad to see that everything just gets thrown into a landfill, just tonnes and tonnes of stuff,” says Giulio Togni, general manager of the Hotel. “I want to be part of the team that educates the community – and it’s a very small community – that we can be doing so much more. We all have to start contributing, even though it can be Tafadzwa Katunga is a hotel management trainee and is also part of the ‘The Planet Captains’ team time consuming and may initially involve some small extra costs.” ”For other hotels to follow suit, the process must be simple,” Togni continues, “with colour-coded bins readily accessible to encourage usage and people appointed to manage and enforce the system.” Once more hotels get involved there will be need for more combined effort from these hotels, Victoria Falls Town Council and ARM to manage collection of waste. Togni points out that with approximately 1,100 bedrooms in Victoria Falls, excluding the small lodges, hotels are one of the major contributors to waste generation in town. The Victoria Falls Hotel alone generates a huge volume of waste and even though management has started tak- PHOTO: MANA MEADOWS MANA MEADOWS ing steps to use energy and cost efficient systems, there is a lot still to be done. “It’s about constantly looking for little ways to improve. You can’t suddenly have one big utopia – bam – and it’s done,” says Togni. One small move that has created huge positive change is the introduction of a Vivreau machine – an advanced water purification system that allows the hotel to safely bottle its own still and sparkling water into recyclable glass bottles. “The number of bottles we used to use just in the rooms in a month on low occupancies was about 5,000 bottles – so imagine that amount not going onto the dumpsite,” says Chimba. ENVIRONMENT Victoria Falls hosts the annual Africa Environment Day up to the main event on 1 March. Tree planting was done at Mkhosana and Victoria Falls [email protected] low density suburbs. On 1 March before the main event, the Minister of Environment Victoria Falls Zimbabwe, and VIP delegates were given was honoured to host the a tour of the Victoria Falls Hotel Africa Environment Day eco composting project. The National commemoration over main event was held at Busi a two day period, 28 February Business Centre, Chinotimba and 1 March 2013. Africa and the commemoration was Environment Day was set aside officially launched by the by African Heads of State and Guest of Honour, Minister Government leaders in 2002 to of Environment and Natural create awareness on the need resources Management to protect the environment. Hon F D C Nhema. Scheduled clean ups in and The event was organized around Victoria Falls were by the Environmental organised as part of the build Management Agency. PHOTOS: ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT AGENCY ZT CORRESPONDENT Hon FDC Nhema conducting a choir competition during Africa Environment day commemoration at Busi Business Centre, Chinotimba Vic Falls, and addressing the crowd 30 MAR APR MAY 2013 VICTORIA FALLS CONSERVATION Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend CONSERVATION Excellent game viewing in Zambezi National Park, Victoria Falls Full steam ahead for conservation FRANCES JACKSON www.vfapu.org he inaugural Victoria Falls Anti Poaching Unit (VFAPU) Steam Train Fundraiser in 2012 was such a success with the community that it is set to become an annual event, and this year it promises to be even better than last and is attracting participants from around the region. Bookings are already coming in and the organizers are hoping that tourists in Victoria Falls will also participate. VFAPU play a critical role in the guardianship of the Victoria Falls World Heritage Site and the surrounding Zambezi National park. Zambezi Traveller chats briefly with Charles Brightman who heads the unit. The Victoria Falls ‘bush telegraph’ is very positive – we are hearing that overall game sightings in Zambezi Nation- al Park have really improved; does this mean that National Parks and Wildlife together with VFAPU have got on top of the poaching problem? Charles: Yes we are definitely proving to be a good deterrent, and judging from all reports in the park, sightings and numbers of the various wildlife species occurring in the park have increased. Are you feeling positive about the general poaching problem? Charles: I am generally pleased with our progress, and is wonderful proof what a difference can be made when everyone pulls together, Parks and Wildlife Management Authority, Zimbabwe Republic Police, businesses in Victoria Falls and of course our wonderful Falls community. What are your goals? Charles: Well, of course the goal is to eradicate poaching, but I think that’s a ‘pipe dream’. But let’s keep this positive. We want poachers to realize that our natural heritage is more valuable resource as a tourism income provider rather than a commercial poaching enterprise. VFAPU are a vital link in taking care of our natural heritage, we look forward to hearing more positive news. Charles: We are part of a big picture and we could not do it without or local and international support, long may it continue. We thank all our supporters throughout! FACT file VFAPU • VFAPU founded in January 1999. • Has 17 Game Scouts working with the unit. • Works in close co-operation with Parks and Wildlife Authority and Zimbabwe Republic Police. • Has removed over 21 000 wire snares. • Apprehended over 600 poachers. • Has saved 158 mammals injured through poaching. • Works with other relevant organisations committed to wildlife conservation and education of local communities. Despite heroic efforts by many conservationists the plight of the rhino is still in the balance. Two brothers, Glenn and Grant Simleit, have decided to run the London Marathon dressed in Rhino lookalike attire to raise funds for the Save The Rhino charity and to raise awareness of the real threat of rhino extinction. Zambezi Traveller caught up with them in London. FRANCES JACKSON http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/glennsimleit http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/grantsimleit Glenn; have you ever run a marathon before? Glenn: I have never run a marathon before, no, but to run the London Marathon is on everyone’s ‘to-do’ list, though possibly not in a rhino suit! I’ve done the Tough Mudder with my brother last year which is about 12 miles of mud and I’m doing it again this year. When did you decide that you wanted to help conserve rhino? Glenn: I worked in conservation when I left school, at Sango Ranch in the Save Conservancy in the lowveld area of Zimbabwe. I used to help protect and look after rhinos in our area as well as other animals. I am part of the crusade to help save rhino from extinction. Grant: For the last two years our sister Hayley in Mutare has been raising awareness and money for rhino conservation and this has driven my passion to participate and contribute. Have you got a goal in mind with regard to your fundraising? Glenn: I have been for a few walks around London in the rhino suit - this caused much amusement on the tube; it’s not every day you get on the Piccadilly Line and find a rhino in the carriage. I managed to get some sponsor- Victoria Falls Anti Poaching Steam Train Fund Raiser 23 March 2013 Tom Varley in the wild documenting meercats Victoria Falls Productions Private Photography / Videography services Tom Varley will take high quality Pictures / Video of your Experience in Africa We offer a personal service by professional photographers. We can join your day trip in Chobe, trip to Victoria Falls, or anything else you’d like to keep a memory of. Tom Varley, a camera man and a photographer, was raised in the Zimbabwean bush. His love for the wildlife and the area is reflecting in his work and led him to publish a coffee table book about Victoria Falls. Cell: +263 712 616 874 Tel: + 263 13 406 79 Email: [email protected] www.vicfallsproductions.com Cost USD 45.00 all inclusive Departs 16h30 until late • • • • • • • Train departs Vic Falls station at 16h30 Sundowners and snacks on the Victoria Falls Bridge Great prizes to be won. Dancing to DJ Francis on the train Meet the VFAPU team at Jafuta Jafuta - well known group ‘Evicted’ will be entertaining the crowd Delicious food available for those under the stars around the fires Bus transfers back to Victoria Falls available Victoria Falls Anti Poaching Unit would like to thank the businesses and Falls community for their generous support for this annual fundraising event. Tickets on sale at Liquorama & the Steam Train offices PHOTO: SCORCE SIMLEIT PHOTO : CHARLES BRIGHTMAN, VFAPU, DISCOVER SAFARIS Running for our rhino The amazing rhino outfit ship from the South African shop Savvanna, great biltong by the way! Grant: We would like to raise enough money to provide a few rangers with new equipment for them to do a more efficient job, in a country where the minimum wage doesn’t go very far. Where does Save The Rhino concentrate most of its efforts? Grant: Save The Rhino currently supports field programmes in Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia and South Africa, as well as the work of the IUCN SSC African Rhino Specialist Group. In Asia they support programmes in India and Indonesia with possible funding towards community activities in Nepal. How do you think we can stop this slaughter of Africa’s rhino populations? Glenn: I think through determination and hard work we will win the battle against poaching. It would be better if governments would assist. Education is key as it would be a lot cheaper for the poacher if he collected his finger nail cuttings. That’s what rhino horn is basically. Grant: Bigger awareness campaigns internationally. If people really knew what was happening to these majestic animals there would have been drastic action taken and stronger penalties for the people who are caught slaughtering rhinos. Good luck to both of you – Zambezi Traveller supports your dedication to a campaign which we must not lose. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend VICTORIA FALLS 2013 MAR APR MAY 31 WILDLIFE Portrait of a pangolin www.tikkihywoodtrust.org www.pangolinsg.org For me, the pangolin is certainly the most sensitive and secretive animal I have ever worked with – but also the most intelligent – and I have worked with the charismatic animals like elephant and rhinos,” says Lisa Hywood, founder and managing trustee of the Tikki Hywood Trust. The Harare-based Trust has been involved with pangolins since its inception in 1994. “Maybe it’s a bit more difficult to see through the scales and realise that this is like any other mammal and that it too has a sensitive side, a serious side and an aggressive side – because pangolins can be very aggressive when they don’t get their own way,” Hywood says. In addition to their scaly exterior it’s easy to see why there is so much mystery surrounding pangolins – which are sometimes mistaken for reptiles. They are nocturnal, shy and increasingly endangered, so the chances of seeing one are extremely slim. Due to their specialist diet of mostly ants and termites, their shy nature and susceptibility to stress, pangolins can rarely be kept in captivity. There are eight species of pangolin in the world – four in Asia and four in Af- Mr and Mrs “Mpisi” Ndhlovu hosted a training course at their home near Monde in the Hwange Communal Area near Victoria Falls. The aim of the course was to train local rural women to produce items such as women’s handbags and items of art made from local plants and the seeds of indigenous trees. The beautiful products will be displayed at the August 2013 UNWTO conference at Victoria Falls. Ms. Sithole is the local coordinator for the Zimbabwe Home Industries and Markets Association (ZHIMA) rica. Zimbabwe is home to the Cape (or Temmnick or ground) pangolin, which is a Specially Protected Species in Zimbabwe. This means that it is one of nine species of animal that the Government feels is severely endangered to the point that it requires extra protection. It is illegal to keep one in captivity, kill or catch one. No one is certain how many pangolins Zimbabwe has. Up until ten to fifteen years ago, the main threat pangolins faced was that their body parts were prized for their medicinal properties, and there was a strong cultural significance attached to the offering of a pangolin as a gift to a chief – or even the President. These days the high demand in the Far East for nearly all pangolin body parts is their severest danger. FACT file Pangolin • A pangolin’s tongue is attached near its pelvis and last pair of ribs. Extended it is at least as long as the animal’s body, from base of the tail to head. When resting, the tongue retracts into a sheath in the chest cavity. • The pangolin’s prized scales are made from keratin – the same protein that makes up the rhino’s horn, and our own fingernails. PHOTO: TIKKI HYWOOD TRUST. MANA MEADOWS The ground pangolin is the larger and more terrestrial of Africa’s four pangolin species. Adults can reach full body lengths of between 65–111cm and can weigh up to 20kg Victoria Falls Marathon 14 JULY 2013 42.2km full marathon 21.1km half marathon 5km fun run An AIMS registered event. The route is fast and relatively flat and well supported by regular water points and cooling down sections managed by the sponsors. www.vicfallsmarathon.com PHOTO: ALAN SPARROW Choose one of the standard travel packages, or tailor-make your own to enjoy the activities the region has to offer. Daily flights from Johannesburg to the falls, which makes linking from international flights to the region easy. Left to right: Mrs M Ndhlovu, Ms Anette Sithole and Mr “Mpisi” Ndhlovu with kneeling community member T h e P a n g o l i n P e n d a n t i n S t e r l i n g S i l v e r, for Adventurers 1 0 % O F A L L PAT R I C K M AV R O S PA N G O L I N S A L E S G O T O T H E T I K K I H Y W O O D T R U S T D E D I C AT E D T O S AV I N G O U R L E S S E R KNOWN ENDANGERED MAMMALS HASLEMERE LANE, UMWINSIDALE, HARARE TEL: 0772 165 555/6 MOB: 0772 414 414 WWW.PATRICKMAVROS.COM [email protected] MAR APR MAY 2013 CLASSIFIEDS ACTIVITIES ARTISTS AND ART GALLERIES Sealant Safaris: Specialises in accommodation, tours, Chobe trips, Kariba Ferries, Mana Pools. Office No 16, Sopers Arcade. Tel : 013 40237, 0772 279083. Email : [email protected]. The Zambezi Helicopter Company: View the vastness of the Victoria Falls and its surrounds the best way! Take a helicopter flip and enjoy the magnificent splendor of the Zambezi River and its Falls. Contact The Zambezi Helicopter Company, Box 125, Zimbabwe. Tel +263 (0) 13 43569, cell: +263 (0) 773 080 909, +263 (0) 712 324 422. Tel/ fax: +263 13 40059. Email: zhc. [email protected]. Skype: zambezihelicopters Web site: www. zambezihelicopters.com logo here The Larry Norton Gallery: Original and reproduced fine art wildlife and landscape images available from this renowned artist. Visit this superb gallery in the historical Victoria Falls Hotel. You will find us in the Stables Lounge. Phone: +263 (0) 772 606 233 and +263 (0) 13 40076. Email: [email protected] and website: www.larrynorton.co.za B&B Lorries B&B, Victoria Falls: Full English breakfast. Ensuite rooms. Home cooked dinners. Your home away from home. Phone +263 (0) 13 42139 or +263 (0) 712 406 584. Email: lorrie@mweb. co.zw. 10% discount on production of this advertisement. Find us on Facebook. BEAUTY Wild Horizons is a “one-stop’ activity provider offering a range of tours and activities including rafting, canoeing, elephant back safaris and high wire activities. Email: [email protected] ANGLING/FISHING Tyress Health & Beauty Salon: Manicures, pedicures, artificial nails, facials, make-up, massages, waxing, tweezing, body scrub, braiding. For all your relaxation & body treatments. Tel : 013 45039, Cell: +263 772 607 940, email: [email protected]. No 5 Pumula Centre, Victoria Falls and Adventure Zone Victoria Falls. CATERING SERVICES Delicious Indian Cuisine. Seventh Heaven Foods (Pvt) Ltd: 523 Reynard Rd, Victoria Falls. Take-aways, catering for functions. Specialises in snacks and Indian dinners. Call Anju and Barry Nathoo on +263 (0) 13 40527/42348. Cell: +263 (0) 712 212 255/+263 (0) 775 121 406. Email: [email protected] Victoria falls Advertise in Victoria Falls Classifieds [email protected] +263 (0) 775 297 519 CHARITY HARDWARE STORES REPAIRS & WORKSHOPS SERVICES Once a month a number of Victoria Falls residents put together ‘goodie parcels’ with a few luxuries, mostly necessities for elderly people in the community that are struggling to make ends meet. Anyone wishing to contribute to this can email Cathrina Gover: [email protected] and Mel Hudson: [email protected] Builders’ Hardware: For all your building material visit Builders’ Hardware, Old PG/Johnson & Fletcher building, Orders done to your specification. Contact Thandi 0772 347687/ Itai 0712 597465 Amherst Engineering T/A Zambezi Motors: for vehicle repairs and maintenance, contact Roy: +263 712 747 306, Shayle: +263 772 284 689. Management co. Rotary Club of Victoria Falls meets every Thursday at Ilala Lodge between 1:00pm and 2:00pm. For further information please contact our club President Joshua Ncube +263712207368/+263773166660 or our Immediate Past President Anne Taggart on +263 (0)772 254552 or our club secretary Barbara on +263 (0)773 228084. Rotary Club of Hwange, District 9210, meets every Thursday at the Hwange Colliery Company Little Theatre between 1730 and 1900pm. Please call Mugove Hamadziripi, Club President for further details on 0712 263 931 or 0772 428 806. Email: [email protected]. Victoria Falls Tourism Police Unit: A donar funded initiative between private and public sector in conjunction with the Zimbabwe Republic Police to ensure a safe environment for visitors and local residents within the Victoria Falls tourism area. Anyone wishing to assist in sponsoring one or more of the dedicated Tourism Police Officers please contact Kevin Fry +263 (0) 772 872646 Cell - 00 27 719794115 Email : [email protected]. CULTURAL ACTIVITIES RESTAURANTS Hardware Zone, Victoria Falls for all your electrical, plumbing, painting and building requirements. Phone +263 (0) 13 42202, cell +263 (0)773 255 788, Email - sue. [email protected]. 426 Pioneer Road, Industrial Area. Imbabala Zambezi Safari Lodge: Located in the Matetsi Safari Area with 14km of Zambezi river frontage Imbabala is renowned for its game viewing and bird watching Tel: +263 (0) 13 44571,44426. Email: [email protected]. www.wildhorizons.co.za The Victoria Falls Hotel: òòòòò Situated on a world heritage site, the legendary Victoria Falls Hotel overlooks the magnificent falls. This gracious 1904 hotel is set in lush tropical gardens that recall the romance of days gone by. Contact Sales and Marketing Manager. Email: [email protected]. Telephone: +263 (0) 13 44751/9. In-da-Belly Bar and Café: Located within the Victoria Falls Rest Camp on Parkway Drive. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Good food, great value, superb atmosphere. Tel : +263 13 40501/11. Email: [email protected] The Victoria Falls Hotel: Stanley’s Terrace, cosmopolitan lunch The Victoria Falls Hotel: Livingstone Room, fine dining with a 7 course menu. The Victoria Falls Hotel: Jungle Junction, international buffet and African Spectacular show. For bookings, contact +263 (0) 44751/9, Email : [email protected] REST CAMPS FRESH PRODUCE LOCKSMITHS Victoria Falls Locksmiths: Providers of 24hr key cutting and lock-out services. Tel : Levi on 013 44526 Cell 0778 132 220 or 0712 764 486 Email : [email protected] Discover Safaris: Charles Brightman P O Box CT 544 Victoria Falls Zimbabwe, Tel/Fax + 263 13 45821, Cell + 263 712 209144 or + 263 917 747 426, Skype : charlesbrightman, Specialising in walking safaris, game drives, bird watching trips and tailor made safaris. Finalist in the Safari Awards Category. Best Personal Contribution to Wildlife Conservation, www.safariawards.com/winners11. THATCHING GRASS Thatching grass suppliers: Contact Derek Wilkinson, located in Banket, the grass heartland. Cell: +263 (0) 777 560 856 or landline +263 (0) 66 2595. Email: [email protected] or contact local agent, John Dewdney +263 (0) 13 44645 or +263 (0)775901534 website: http..//thatchinggrasssuppliers.webs.com UPHOLSTERY VICTORIA FALLS LAUNDRY SERVICE Spotless Laundry Services at Victoria Falls Restcamp, Lodge 17. Open daily. Contact +262 (0) 40509-11 or +263 (0)772 347687. Co-ordinators of design and construction projects for homes, lodges and hotels. External and interior designs conceptualized. Renovations undertaken. Kitchen & Cabinetry design and fitting. Sara Norton +263772606233 or +2631344743 Email: [email protected] SPECIALIST GUIDE HOTELS & LODGES Elephant Camp: The Elephant Camp is a luxury and intimate lodge under canvas only 10 minutes from Victoria Falls and all its attractions and activities, yet secluded in its own private game reserve so as to allow close up encounters with wildlife. Email: [email protected] The Project Victoria Falls Restcamp. Situated in the town centre offers affordable, safe accommodation. Includes self catering lodges, chalets, dormitories, semi-luxury tents and camping. Along with a tours & internet desk & In-da-Belly Restaurant. Tel: + 263 13 40509 - 11. Email: [email protected] SCREENPRINTING Screenworks: For all your screen printing requirements, T/shirts, banners, posters etc. Call Zenzo + 263 775 728342 / + 263 712 614244. Email [email protected]. 16 Sopers Arcade, Victoria Falls. EN C ID Y Repairs to broken fishing rods, missing eyes and ferules. I sell top quality tiger streamers, nembwe streamers, trout flies, wet, dry and nymphs. Salmon flies, and offshore streamers. Contact Tim Braybrooke on 0712208370. Or pop in and see me at 168 Courtney Selous. Victoria Falls. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend VICTORIA FALLS W 32 VICTORIA FALLS Widency: For all your canvas and tarpaulin products, game drive vehicle seats and canopies, boats, blinds. Office and household furniture contact Hudson on 0773 000888/9. Located 299 Rumsey Road, Victoria Falls. Zimbabwe 33 HWANGE On your way to the Zambezi ISSUE 11 FOR IPAD APP ONLY TRAVEL Why travel when it rains? Pilot guide Mike Myers has been with Wilderness Safaris for 18 years; he is now involved with collecting both still and video content for their publications. He is based in Victoria Falls, a convenient hub from where he can travel to the locations where Wilderness operates. MIKE MYERS www.wilderness-safaris.com A very exciting and unusual sighting in Hwange of 7 gemsbok. Normally only seen singly or in pairs. The last sighting in the Wilderness concession was late in the dry season and rainy but it seldom rains all the time. My wife and I went down to Ngamo from Victoria Falls where we live to document Hwange in late January and it was spectacular. The change from the dryness of late September to the green lushness of summer was amazing. Plains game covered the area – we saw wildebeest, giraffe, zebra, eland and impala in large numbers. The real bonus viewing was a rare and beautiful sighting of gemsbok. Elephant came down in the late afternoon and we saw lions regularly in the early morning. I could not stop thinking of the remarkable contrast from dry to wet season – a barren dry sandy plain which becomes a wetland covered in animals PHOTOS : MIKE MYERS erhaps one of the most frequently asked questions I encounter is: ‘When is the best time to come to southern Africa?’ It is not an easy question to answer and I normally say, ‘When you are here!’ The drier time of the year from July through to October is the busiest and certainly an excellent time to be in southern Africa, but it is not my favorite time; that is reserved for the summer. After the long dry season, towards the end of October, we get our first rains. This clears the air of the dust and smoke haze, which create the famous red African sunsets, and coincides with dynamic summer skies full of beautiful cloud formations. Many young animals are born at this time of the year and the Ngamo Flats area of our concession in Hwange changes from being a dry wasteland to summer wetland paradise. The normal weather pattern is for clear mornings building up to a thundershower in the afternoon which then clears by sunset. It can be overcast Elephant relish rainy season bounty. Insert: the golden-backed bee-eater and waterfowl. Storks, cranes, ducks, geese and waders of every description are abundant. There is something to see all the time and the beauty will take your breath away. My images show the contrast; certainly summer in Hwange is one of the best-kept southern African wildlife secrets. Pumping Legs For Water 2013 Hwange Adventure Cycle Hwange National Park 25 – 27 July 2013 Contact Dave Dell at [email protected] 34 MAR APR MAY 2013 HWANGE BIRDS Zambezi Traveller Travellers friend RESEARCH The secrets of Hwange’s zebra Black kite Dressed in green and sparkling with jewels THE HWANGE BIRDER http://hwangebirder.blogspot.com wange has had almost unprecedented rains since November last year. I have had varied reports about the exact figure but we have certainly had more rain than the entire annual average, and we still have a couple of months left in the season. The rain has turned Hwange into something of a birding oasis similar to the Okavango Delta in places, and boy have I been in my element! In November I saw and photographed a Hwange first, the chestnut-banded plover at Nyamandhlovu Pan. December was characterized by eagles and falcons taking termite alates in their billions and white storks taking frogs in their trillions. In January I spent time in an area called Ngamo in the southeastern corner of the park and I will put my name on the line and say ‘there is no better birding in Hwange’ than there. Pygmy geese, stilts, coots, moorhens, ducks, teal (Cape, Hottentot and red-billed), storks in their thousands, sandpipers, plovers, lapwings and eagles, falcons, vultures and terns. Even the clouds were bird shaped! We saw the critically endangered wattled crane there a few years ago in another wet season and we are scanning the flats for their Denham’s bustard return. There have been a number of sightings of Denham’s bustard in the open areas, a European honeybuzzard near Main Camp and the northern grey-headed sparrow is nesting at the Waterbuck’s Head restaurant. Bee-eaters have helped me master ‘birds in flight’ photography and snooping out Allen’s gallinules in the grasses has made boring days bearable. Hwange is looking her best, dressed in a green sash and sparkling with colourful jewels. Come and see her soon. PETER ROBERTS www.za-hwange.org Elephants dominate the ecology of Hwange, accounting for over ninety percent of the Park’s large herbivore biomass. Medium sized herbivores, such as zebra, occur in much lower population densities than those recorded in most other African systems. The Hwange zebra population density is one fiftieth of the density recorded in Serengeti. The HERD programme set out to discover if mediumsized herbivores are limited by competition with elephant; however there is no strong evidence for this on the basis of analysis of the long-term waterhole counts undertaken by Wildlife & Environment Zimbabwe. In other ecosystems like the Serengeti, food limita- Khulu Ivory opens in Hwange Only 30 m from the elevated deck of your luxury tent or rustic tree-house you will enjoy wonderful close-up viewing of our regular ZLOGYLVLWRUV¬0LRPER6DIDUL&DPSLVDQDEVROXWHJHPRQWKHHGJHRI Hwange National Park, delivering a home from home experience ZLWKHDV\DFFHVVFDULQJSURIHVVLRQDOVWDIISHDFHIXODPELDQFH and exceptional game viewing opportunities. CONTACT US FOR RATES AND AVAILABILITY Reservations office: +26 3 13 45532/45986, 0RELOHRU (PDLO¬PLRPER#PZHEFR]D¬¬¬¬¬ ZZZPLRPERVDIDULFDPSFRP Miombo Is Situated On The Boundary Of The Park 15 Minutes Drive From Main Camp tion and predation have been shown to be key limiting factors. In order to effectively manage the Park for wildlife conservation, it is essential for the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority to understand the processes which influence populations, and to assist the Authority the HERD team initiated long-term monitoring research on impala in 2000 and on zebra in 2004. Monitoring changes in populations involves identifying and following the life histories of individuals, and with zebra the researchers have a key to identifying each animal – its stripes. The exact pattern of the stripes on each zebra is unique, much like the human fingerprint or a bar-code. Working from photographs, researchers are able to identify and monitor individuals within the population, allowing the project to follow the life histories of some 250 zebra over nine years. Through this work the team has been able to build up information on survival rates, reproductive patterns and harem dynamics. The project has identified high mortality rates for foals and two to three year olds and is currently working with the Hwange Lion Research project looking at predation and other causes of mortality. The researchers have also identified interesting social dynamics within the Hwange zebra population. Zebra stallions maintain harems, and Hwange’s social structure has been found to be more unstable than elsewhere. In Hwange it is unusual for a female to stay with the same male for more than three years, and as stallions are known to kill foals sired from previous mates, the team is now investigating infanticide rates within the population to see if this increased social fluidity has an unexpected cost in foal mortality. PHOTO: ALISON DUNCAN PHOTOS: BRENT STAPELKAMP The Hwange Environmental Research Development programme of France’s National Centre for Scientific Research, run by Dr Hervé Fritz of the Lyons University, has been researching the dynamics of the Hwange ecosystem, covering the National Park and the community and Forestry lands nearby, since 1999. Newborn foal Hwange National Park ZT CORRESPONDENT www.amalindacollection.com Khulu Ivory, ‘Grandfather of Ivory,’ is a new safari camp on a private concession of 6,000 acres next to Hwange National Park. One of the many charms of this camp is that it offers guests luxurious and private accommodation accompanied by old world hospitality. Khulu Ivory is accessible from the Bulawayo / Victoria Falls main road and guests can self drive into neighbouring Ivory Lodge and from there be transferred directly into camp. The distance from Bulawayo is 258 kms and from Victoria Falls 180 kms. Hwange airport is only eight kilometres away. Khulu Ivory comprises three thatched, safari style suites built on slightly elevated platforms. Each well-appointed room is designed in a modern and contemporary style but with minimal impact on the surroundings and environment. The units have an indoor and outdoor shower and balcony for game viewing, as well as an individual tea and coffee service. The beds are twins but can be converted to kingsize for double occupancy. The camp currently has a total capacity of only six people. All rooms overlook an ancient riverbed, in today’s terms called a ‘vlei,’ with a waterhole known to attract a variety of the great wildlife and birdlife of Hwange. Khulu’s main guest area provides a full bar which also commands a view of the waterhole and is stocked with a wide variety of local and imported beverages. A plunge pool is located on the deck area, as well as a fire pit for stargazing and nightcaps. The camp has borehole water throughout and an onsite laundry service. Khulu Ivory offers guests a private guided experience on the private concession or in the National Park. Activities on offer are; half day or full day game drives, night drives, visits to the Painted Dog Conservation Centre, walking safaris, pan/hide sits and game counts on request. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend HWANGE 2013 MAR APR MAY 35 CONSERVATION DR ANDREW LOVERIDGE wwwl.wildcrew.org he lion is an iconic symbol of Africa, yet co-existing with lions poses hardships for many African communities. Lion depredation on domestic livestock has negative impacts on the livelihoods of livestock owners. Carnivores are impacted when retaliatory action is taken against them. Globally, human populations are expanding and this has resulted in increasing human-carnivore conflict and declines in many carnivore populations across the world. In the case of the African lion, populations across Africa are shrinking and lions are now absent from 85% of their historical range. Great ingenuity, dedication and the will and support of local communities are needed to solve the problem of human wildlife conflict. The ‘Living with Lions’ project in south western Kenya has hit upon a unique solution. Maasai warriors were recruited to work alongside conservationists to protect both their community’s livestock and the predators in their areas. This ‘Lion Guardian’ programme has enjoyed significant success in reducing human-lion conflicts. Following the notable achievements of the Kenyan programme, a number of similar projects have been initiated in community areas across Africa, including Ruaha and Ngorongoro in Tanzania and around Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe. The Hwange programme has been named the ‘Long Shields’ and is run by the Hwange Lion Research Project with sponsorship from Panthera, Great Wall Motors and SATIB Trust. The programme name has local resonance; in the late 19th Century the Matabele were known as ‘the people of the long shields,’ so named because the fearsome warriors of the tribe carried tall raw- PHOTO: BRENT STAPELKAMP The Long Shields lion guardians hide shields for protection in battle. Our modern usage of the name communicates the protective role that the contemporary Long Shield officers play in their communities, protecting both village livestock and their community’s natural resources, including the predators that are so valuable to Zimbabwe’s tourism industry. In late 2012, after fruitful discussions with the Tsholot- sho and Hwange Rural District Councils, CAMPFIRE officers and local traditional leaders, the programme was launched around Hwange National Park. The programme is led by the Hwange Lion Research Project’s Brent Stapelkamp and Lovemore Sibanda and has, over the last few months, recruited seven men and one lady from candidates put forward by the local chiefs. Each Long Shield is Hwange lion guardians equipped with a rugged mountain bike (donated by Des Stephens of SATIB insurance), a cell phone to communicate with project co-ordinators and GPS to record information about conflict incidents in their area. As fearless as the warriors of old, the Long Shields actively mobilise villagers to deter would-be stock raiding lions with loud noises and bright lights and by lighting watch fires. They also warn their neighbours to move their cattle away from areas where lions are present. This strategy appears to work well and we have monitored the movements of these lions as they move back into the National Park to avoid this unwelcome disturbance. The Long Shields also monitor local wildlife, assist and advise local people with livestock protection. The Long Shields lion guardian programme is part of ongoing long term research being undertaken by the Hwange Lion Research Project in close collaborative partnership with the Zimbabwe Parks and Wildlife Management Authority. Since 2007 the project has focused on understanding the causes and extent of human conflict with lions in the Hwange area. This programme has been extended to the Victoria Falls region in partnership with Roger and Jess Parry of Victoria Falls Wildlife Trust. INVESTMENT ZT CORRESPONDENT www.moivaro.com [email protected] Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe is back on the tourist map. A park of stunning richness and variety, in both landscape and wildlife, it is the largest park in the country and since its formalisation in 1928 has provided countless breathtaking wildlife experiences to those fortunate to visit. Along the northeast boundary lies the Sikumi Forestry Reserve , famous for the 25km long Dete Vlei, a long dry river bed, that runs alongside the Park. It is here that a long forgotten lodge has been given a new lease of life. The newly restyled and renamed Sable Sands (formerly Sable Valley) Lodge has an impressive pedigree, having hosted Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip in 1991. Sable Sands is a new partnership between the Forestry Commission of Zimbabwe, Moivaro Lodges & Tented Camps and co-owner Managers Brian and Marleen Sabeta Post. No strangers to the tourism industry or Hwange, the couple were responsible for the revival of neighbouring Sikumi Tree Lodge, before turning their ambitions on redeveloping Sable Sands. Sable Sands has a total of 11 thatched rondavels, or chalets, which can be arranged as twin, double or family rooms, with en suite bathroom and shower. Shaded by trees, the main lodge building has been completely redesigned with a stunning thatched roof, and overlooks the vlei and waterhole where large herds of buffalo, elephant, zebra and numerous antelope species are often seen, together with lion, cheetah and other predators. Only two hours from Victoria Falls, located near Hwange National Park Main Camp, the Lodge offers tours within its own private concession or in the wider Park. PHOTO: MARLEEN POST Still fit for a Queen: Sable Sands re-opens Elephant visit the camp Zambia 36 KAFUE On your way to the Zambezi ISSUE 10 FOR IPAD APP ONLY WILDLIFE Zambia’s endemic lechwe Zambezi Traveller introduced ‘Livingstone’s Lechwe’ in the last issue – the southern or red lechwe, Kobus leche, which Dr David Livingstone was one of the first to describe to science when he discovered Lake Ngami in modern day Botswana. When he eventually crossed the Zambezi and travelled north into what was then Barotseland (now western Zambia) Livingstone encountered another subspecies of lechwe, the Kafue lechwe (K. l. kafuensis). www.iucnredlist.org/ details/11033/0 he Kafue lechwe is one of two subspecies of lechwe endemic to western Zambia. The other, the black lechwe (K. l. smithemani), occurs in the Bangweulu Swamps of the Congo basin. The Kafue lechwe is largely restricted to protected areas within the Kafue Flats, occurring in the Lochinvar (410km 2) and Blue Lagoon (420km 2) National Parks and the Kafue Flats Game Management Area (5,175km 2). The National Parks are also listed jointly as a Ramsar Wetland of International Importance, and are managed exclusively for conservation, while the Kafue Flats Game Management Area is also managed for sport hunting. The Kafue or brown lechwe, which can be distinguished from the southern or red lechwe by the increased amount of black on the front wetland habitats for which they are adapted, and have been eliminated from much of their former ranges as wetlands have been drained, regulated or otherwise influenced by man’s activities. Water flow on the Kafue floodplain has been regulat- The regulation of water flow has altered flow regimes, causing a loss of temporary flooded wetlands and reducing overall habitat availability legs, has been identified as vulnerable to extinction by conservationists. From an estimated population of 350,000 in the early 1900s, by the early 1970s the population had been reduced to around 100,000. Lechwe are highly dependent on the specialised ed almost entirely for human needs since the construction of the Kafue Gorge and Itezhi-tezhi hydroelectric dams in the 1970s. The regulation of water flow has altered flow regimes, causing a loss of temporary flooded wetlands and reducing overall habitat PHOTO: FICO VIDALE PETER ROBERTS Kafue Lechwe availability. Other factors affecting Kafue’s lechwe population include traditional hunting, poaching and cattle grazing pressure. www.mawimbi-adventure.com NEW Discover The Kafue River By Canoe One to 4 days canoeing, day trips Tel: +263 4 861286 e-mail: [email protected] By the early 1980s, following completion of the two dam projects, the population had declined to a minimum of perhaps only 40,000, but has since slowly recovered in response to conservation and community efforts and is currently estimated to be around 75,000. The long-term survival of all lechwe subspecies in the wild depends on the effective protection and management of their wetland habitats, inside and outside of protected areas. Rainfall permitting, management of the Kafue hydro-electric stations is controlled to partially simulate the annual floods, although within restricted parameters. Revenue generation through controlled offtake by sport hunting, and the development of sustainable harvesting to provide meat for local markets, have also been identified as methods of giving the species an economic value and thus creating an incentive for community-based conservation initiatives outside of protected areas. the best of Zambia www.zamagsafaris.com +260 977 618 194 [email protected] we take you places we know and trust www.zambezitraveller.com THRILLS AT EVERY TURN. www.suninternational.com 38 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend LIVINGSTONE INTEREST ART www.livingstone2013.com Chuma was freed by Livingstone from child slavery. Both went on to travel with him extensively...and were with him when he died in Zambia PHOTO: BELINDA HODGE he Limefield Falls are an impressive miniature re-creation of the Victoria Falls, built as a tribute to David Livingstone by his good friend and sponsor, James ‘Paraffin’ Young, on Young’s estate in Scotland. Local legend has it that Sussi and Chuma helped Young to build these replica falls when they were his guests in Scotland. Abdulla Sussi and James Chuma were loyal and trusted attendants; Sussi had helped Livingstone build and dismantle boats on the Zambezi expedition and Chuma was freed by Livingstone from child slavery. Both went on to travel with him extensively on his expeditions and were with him when he died in Zambia. Sussi and Chuma buried Livingstone's heart and entrails under a tree at Chitambo village, then preserved his body and carried it over a thousand miles across difficult terrain and through unknown villages all the way from Chitambo to the coast at Bagamayo, so that it could be taken home to Britain for burial. They felt that such an amazing man must be buried at home. A replica of the Victoria falls built in Scotland by James Chuma The acting British Consul in Zanzibar, Lt Prideaux, paid off the men in Bagamayo, without even a bonus, and failed to send Sussi and Chuma on to Britain with the Royal Navy to attend the funeral in Westminster Abbey. He little realised that they had been the leaders of this saddest and most extraordinary of marches, which took nine months to complete. Young got wind of this and paid for Sussi and Chuma to make the trip to Britain. Although they did not arrive in time for the funeral, they did help the Rev Horace Waller edit Livingstone's last journals and complete the story of his last days and death. They were hailed at a meeting of the Royal Geographical Society and special medals were struck for all those who helped carry the body to the coast. These two loyal and caring Africans also went north to Scotland to stay with Young. Seeing there was long harvest grass on the fields of Young’s estate, they offered to build a replica of the wood and grass hut Livingstone had died in, along with a replica of Chitambo's village. In memory of this extraordinary cultural exchange, Ewan McVicar is now creating links between the James Young school and other Scottish schools with schools in Livingstone through the new British Council digital hub, and with the help of the Livingstone 2013 bicentenary initiative. Decorated calabash and wooden sculpture on display in the Livingstone Museum Encouraging creativity CLARE MATEKE www.zambiatourism.com [email protected] International Museum Day falls on 18 May every year. On this day museums around the world organise special activities for their visitors. The theme for this year is ‘Museum (Memory + Creativity) = Social Change,’ chosen by the International Council of Museums. Livingstone Museum offers free entry to all to mark the day. This year we are focusing on children who are about to leave school. Livingstone is the tourist capital of Zambia, yet many children here leave school and struggle to find employment. Many are creative and could develop this skill if encouraged. To help them hone these skills, the Museum is offering training in art and crafts, using skilled local artists and craftspeople. This training will be done in the month of April, for a selected group of children. The skills learnt by the children can then be used, among other things, to create traditional crafts and artworks that can be sold to visiting tourists, helping them to generate an income after school. Many of the traditional skills such as basketry, matmaking, pottery and carving are dying out, and yet it is the crafts made with these skills that make up much of the Ethnography collection in the Museum, and which attract many international visitors to Zambia and to the Museum. On 18 May, the Museum will have a fun day where children will be allowed to come and spend the day painting and creating artistic things, guided by local artists. The best art works from the art and craft training month will be exhibited and the children will be available to proudly show off their endeavours. We hope that we can show the community in Livingstone that art can help a child to earn an income and to get joy and should be encouraged at all ages. BIRDING A tiny and secretive gem of a bird YAKOV SABAG www.zambezitraveller.com Located in the centre of Livingstone town Free airport pickups and daily transfers to the Falls Email: livingstonebackpackersoffi[email protected] Cell: +260 977 471 735 Tel: +260 213 324189 | Cell: +260 976 587 511 Email: [email protected] PHOTO: YAKOV SABAG BELINDA HODGE PHOTOS: CLARE MATEKE Mini replica Vic Falls in Scotland The red-throated twinspot, Hypargos niveogottatus, is a beautiful little bird, supposedly common in central Africa and along the east coast of our continent. However, it is quiet and not easily seen, liking the tangle of dense bush. It has been recorded in the Livingstone and Victoria Falls area several times, but not as often as one would expect for a ‘common’ bird. As a keen birder, my eyes and ears are always peeled and ready for the slightest sound or movement, but I had never had the privilege to come across this little gem until August last year, when to my surprise I saw it in my garden drinking from one of the bird baths! In the following few weeks I received more reports from several other people who were not sure if they had correctly identified what they had seen. Suddenly they were everywhere for the next few weeks, and then as the rains started, The red-throated twinspot they were gone. I kept looking myself and asking the same people if they were still seeing the twinspot, but to no avail. I thought maybe it had moved on to its breeding ground, but to my delight I saw it again in Tongabezi at the end of January. I heard this faint but yet familiar trill and there he was, this little handsome boy; and since then I have seen it a few more times. I hope to see it on a more regular basis from now onwards. This bird is found in moist evergreen forest; it builds its nest close to the ground, and I hope to come across a nesting site. What’s more, this species is known to be parasitised by the Zambezi indigo bird, which is not supposed to occur around here! I have learnt that everything is possible in nature, so I keep looking with the hope of finding them sooner or later. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend LIVINGSTONE 2013 MAR APR MAY 39 HISTORY T he dream to open up Africa RUSSELL GAMMON www.russellgammon.com he British Government agreed to back Livingstone’s dream to return to Africa and use the Zambezi River to open up the interior to trade. He arrived at the mouth of the Zambezi in 1858, at the head of the most ambitious undertaking in the annals of African exploration - The Zambezi Expedition. This endeavour would run for five years but in spite of having spent over 100,000 pounds of the British tax payers’ money, the expedition never got further than 300 miles up the river. Its progress was blocked by Cahora Bassa gorge, a section Livingstone had bypassed on his earlier journey. Had he known what lay in store for them there, he would never have undertaken this adventure. Entering the gorge for the first time on foot, the men found an awe-inspiring place, hemmed in by towering rock walls that constricted the river into a seemingly endless series of wild cataracts, some of them over 30 feet high. The men were equipped with a paddle steamer that on a good day, with a following wind, had a top speed of 8 knots - there was simply no way this vessel was going to Had he known what lay in store for them there, he would never have undertaken this adventure Slavery– The scourge of Africa www.russellgammon.com SOURCE: MARY EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY RUSSELL GAMMON A slave gang in Zanzibar Be here. Be inspired. Be inspired. Be challenged. Be romanced. www.livingstonetourism.com Gateway to Africa's Wonder go up that river! Livingstone’s companions figured this out in about five minutes, which begs the question, why did it take him five years to arrive at the same conclusion? The answer is that he was so determined to succeed that he had decided if the Zambezi would not suit his purpose, they would simply have to search for a body of water that did! So the expedition explored the Shiri, Rovuma and Rufiji Rivers and eventually ended up on Lake Nyasa itself, desperately searching for a navigable waterway that would serve as a highway to the interior - but there was none. Eventually the British Government also figured this out and recalled the expedition, but not before the press back home had turned on Livingstone, heaping blame To understand why Livingstone was so disturbed to discover commercial slavery in East Africa in 1860 you need an appreciation of the time line of the slave trade on the continent. The British had passed the Wilberforce Act in 1807 which outlawed the international trade in slaves and sent the Royal Navy to blockade the west coast of Africa to enforce this edict. What Livingstone had stumbled upon is that for reasons of political expedience, the British had never enforced this ban on Africa’s east coast since the trade there was run by the Sultan of Oman, who was a key ally in the Middle East. In fairness to the British, in 1807 the market in Zanzibar was small, supplying domestic slaves to the Middle East, but by the 1860s sugar cane plantations had sprung up all SOURCE: MARY EVANS PICTURE LIBRARY Part 4 of a 6 part series marking the bicentennial of the birth of David Livingstone on him for the failure and accusing him of intentionally misleading the public. By the time he arrived back in England in 1864, his reputation was severely compromised and his future looked bleak, but the truth is the expedition had not been a complete failure. The expedition had failed in its primary objective, but it had done much useful geographical work and also discovered that the slave trade in East Africa was not dying out as it was in most parts of the continent, but was in fact virulent and growing like a cancer. Livingstone was mortified by what he uncovered and returned to Britain on a one- Lady Nyasa, Livingstone’s Steamer over the Indian Ocean islands and these plantations were sourcing their labour out of East Africa at a rate of 45,000 souls a year. Livingstone was horrified at this discovery but was even more incensed by the fact that it was taking place under the nose of the British Government, which had simply turned a blind eye to what was going on. He believed that once the public learned what was happening, they would force the government to tackle this issue - but he had underestimated the damage done to his reputation by the failure of the Zambezi Expedition. No one in Britain was the slightest bit interested in what Livingstone had to say on this topic or any other! He spent two fruitless years travelling the length and breadth of the British Isles trying to raise awareness, before finally resolving on a desperate course of action. At the age of 55 he approached the Royal Geographic Society to volunteer his services to lead an expedition to East Africa, believing that from Africa he would be able to focus more attention on the slave trade. By 1868 he was back in Africa. Russell Gammon Safaris Bespoke Guiding and Keynote Speaking service for visiting conference and incentive, special interest, VIP and series tour groups. Victoria Falls Livingstone Chobe email: [email protected] www.russellgammon.com man crusade to put an end to the genocide that was unfolding in Africa. The stage was set for a titanic clash between the missionary explorer and the Arab slavers for the soul of Africa! 40 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend LIVINGSTONE PLANT ENCOUNTERS EVELYN ROE Evelyn Roe is a Botanist with North-West Naturalists’ Society of Zambia [email protected] rab a bunch of chubby, scarlet sausages from a dwaba-berry tree and savour the tangy fruitiness of their flesh; they provide a refreshing snack when you are out and about in the bush. [Photo 1] Known in south-western Zambia as muchingachinga, this small tree is found on Kalahari sands from Angola to Mozambique [Photo 2]. Its scientific name is a typical example of the (mostly discontinued) practice of honouring famous European botanists by naming genera after them. Friesodielsia obovata gives two for the price of one; the Swedish botanist and mushroom taxonomy expert, Elias Fries, and the German botanist Friedrich Diels. ‘Obovata’ refers to the shape of the leaves. This plant belongs to the custard-apple family, the Annonaceae, which includes our purple hook-berry, Artabotrys brachypetalus, and our suffrutex species Annona stenophylla, both of which also have edible fruits. [Photos 3 - 5] Over the last few months, each one of the clusters of cylindrical dwaba-berries has been emerging from the centre of a solitary flower. In its early stages, the fruit looks like a fuzzy green spider [Photos 6 – 7] dangling underneath broad, flat leaves, so it’s quite astonishing to watch its transformation into a bunch of fat, red fingers. For me, this is one of the wonders of the botanical world: observing how a plant expresses its nature through all its different life stages. Before throwing away the seeds from the muchinga- chinga fruit you’ve sucked, hold one in your hand, and imagine how it germinates to become a seedling, which grows up into a tree, in time forming pendulous, paleyellow flowers. Beetles will come in the night, attracted by odours and warmer temperatures inside the flowers, to feast on pollen on the cluster of stamens [Photo 8], and on tasty tissues in the floral chamber, which is the area held safe by the enclosing petals [Photo 9]. The 2. Friesodielsia obovata 6. F. obovata young fruit 3 Purple hook-berry 7 F. obovata young fruit 4 Annona stenophylla flower 8 F. obovata cluster of stamens 5 Annona stenophylla fruits 9 F.obovata enclosing petals PHOTOS : EVELYN ROE Berry banquet 1 Muchinga-chinga ripe fruits beetles’ activity will pollinate the flowers, bringing about fertilisation which, in turn, will bring forth fruits from the flowers. What a wondrous cycle of processes! Friesodielsia obovata has medicinal properties: tests show that extracts from the bark of stem and root are anti-spasmodic, which means that they reduce muscular tension and can suppress spasms in the intestines. Although the trunk and branches are slender and often arching, the termite-resistant wood may be used for building huts and fences. It is important to be aware that plants provide for other living beings besides ourselves. For example, the leaves of dwaba-berry trees give food for the larvae of swordtail butterflies (Graphium species), and many birds and monkeys can be seen feasting on the abundant fruits as summer ends and the dry winter months approach. Enjoy the sense of partaking in the wild banquet of the woodland...but leave some for the other creatures who are members of our larger community. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend LIVINGSTONE 2013 MAR APR MAY 41 TRUE LIFE LYNETTE CLEMENTS Lynette Clements is writing her memoirs ‘ for my siblings and my grandchildren’, and sent a sample to Zambezi Traveller. Following is an extract featuring the family home and some of the more memorable visitors. y first memories are of a brick house with a thatch roof, overlooking a great, wide river with blue sparkling water, a flood plain that stretched to the horizon, and open grassy areas dotted with woodland along the river’s edge. This was Senanga in Barotseland, where I had the privilege of living my early years. Barotseland is now known as the Western Province of Zambia; to the Lozi people it has always been ‘Bulozi.’ My father, Tim Brent, was the Livestock Officer in Senanga from the early fifties until 1957, where his work involved control of foot and mouth disease, particularly along the Angolan border. The veterinary house and office stood on a slope overlooking the great Zambezi River. The grassy area beyond the garden, through which ran the riverfront road, led to a wooded area bordering the river. A short walk through the bush behind the house brought you to the veterinary workers’ homes. Here the house servants, the veterinary messengers and the labourers lived in a compound alive with children, PHOTOS: TIM BRENT ( LIVESTOCK OFFICER, SENANGA) Wonders of an African childhood meals cooking in black pots on fires in front of the huts, dogs running around and chickens scratching in the soil. Lozi ladies would be pounding maize into meal, talking and laughing, and Lozi grandmothers would be sitting on reed mats watching over the scene. Visitors to Senanga were few, mainly officials. The vet from Mongu paid a visit when he, my father and the livestock officer from Kalabo joined forces to hunt a pride of lions that were terrorizing villagers somewhere. There, in the bright moonlight, sitting a few yards away from us was a fully grown leopard. He sat, regal and still, his tail curled around his front paws, contentedly surveying his kingdom Dad with friend on the Zambezi Off to boarding school Well, visitors were few, but we had nocturnal visitors of a different kind! Prides of lions occasionally passed through, attracted to the veterinary compound - there was a departmental herd of cattle, and a horse named Bronc, securely stabled at the back of my father’s office. It is well known that lions love horsemeat, and poor Bronc was regularly terrified by their presence. One night the lions were on the roof of the stable, trying to find a way in, and Bronc could be heard whinnying and pounding the stable door with his hooves. On these occasions, my father would get into his truck which was always parked at the front door, and drive around to see what was causing all the commotion, as by now the dogs would be excited, running in and out through a little exit built for them in the back door of the house. Eventually the lions would give up and go on their way. One night, a pride took over the front garden and lay around for a couple of hours, my parents watching from the verandah which ran the length of the house. Before dawn, the lions were Improvisation in Barotseland 1950s gone. They seemed to melt into the bush as though they had never been there. Leopards were frequently about at night. They were seldom seen, but my father was aware that they prowled around the chicken run, We had no neighbours, no TV, no telephones and no electricity. We read books, were mostly home-schooled, and played in the great outdoors On tour in Barotseland 1950s which was securely wired against them and the birds of prey. There were several large tall trees near the house and in the yard, which provided good cover for leopards. One night, my father woke us up, telling us that we must be very quiet, as he had something to show us. He took us to the window of my parents’ bedroom, and lifted us up onto the sill. There, in the bright moonlight, sitting a few yards away from us was a fully grown leopard. He sat, regal and still, his tail curled around his front paws, contentedly surveying his kingdom. Not a turn of his head, not a flick of his tail. Was he aware we were there, sharing this moment of absolute silence? It is a scene that I will never forget. There were only five white families in Senanga in those days, that is, apart from the Harrington household, and the French missionaries. We had no neighbours, no TV, no telephones and no electricity. We read books, were mostly home-schooled, and played in the great outdoors. It was a unique and wonderful place. There is a lot more to tell about life in Barotseland; the prolific bird and wildlife, the times we could accompany my father on his trips into the bush. This is merely a little glimpse into that world we knew. 42 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend LIVINGSTONE REFORESTATION EDUCATION Planning to re-green a country [email protected] SOURCE: GREENPOP With a target of 5,000 trees to be planted in three weeks in July, Trees for Zambia is perhaps the most dynamic community-based reforestation project ever to take root in the country. in a country with one of the highest deforestation rates in the world. Greenpop aims to create a more sustainable future through urban greening, education, social bridging and increasing biodiversity. In July last year the initial project in Zambia planted more than 4,000 trees in and around Livingstone. Since then a full time staff member has monitored the trees and continued with education. This year the action is taking place from 7-28 July with the aim to plant trees as well as organise workshops and sustainability education for the surrounding communities and volunteers who take part in the project. Events like this are not possible without meaningful partnerships with a variety of people and companies. Individuals and companies can sponsor trees - one tree, 100 trees, 1,000 trees - every tree counts - as well as volunteer during the event. PHOTO: TAMMY RAYMOND www.greenpop.org Greenpop is a social enterprise based in South Africa and Zambia with the objective of making sustainability popular, fun and accessible to all. It does this through tree-planting projects at schools and community centres, and larger scale reforestation. Trees for Zambia is an ongoing reforestation and eco-awareness project Our Adult Literacy students with volunteers Sarah Kelly from the UK (left) Kate Albers from USA (African Impact Project Manager) and Lied Nauta from the Netherlands (right) Following a dream of literacy KATE ALBERS www.africanimpact.com very Tuesday and Thursday, Barbara Mwiya and Claire Mulikelela walk from the outskirts of Dambwa Compound to attend an adult literacy class. With families to feed and businesses to run, these women desire more than the basic ability to read and write – they seek a tool to further their careers. “I often go to Francistown to sell paint,” explains Claire. “I need English so buyers can trust me.” Barbara, motioning to the classroom, declares, “I have seen this older woman is a teacher. With literacy I myself can become a teacher.” In support of these goals, the voluntourism company African Impact has begun an adult literacy programme for beginner and intermediate Zambian women participating in reforestation project levels at Local Cowboy Preschool, in partnership with the Ministry of Education. Barbara and Claire join 12 other dedicated classmates for two hours of intermediate English and arithmetic instruction under African Impact teaching volunteers. In the neighbouring classroom, retired primary school teacher Clarina Muyunda instructs an additional 25 adults in a basic-level class. Notebooks in hand and babies in tow, this group of mostly women travel far from their rural homes for the opportunity to begin or complete their literacy education. Muyunda and African Impact representatives are joined by volunteers from Victoria Falls University, who assist teachers with translations and provide one-on-one help to the students. Sarah Kelly, teaching volunteer, has high hopes for this project. “If these parents can do it, they can help their children as well. It’s not just their generation that are benefitting, but multiple generations. It’s a very fulfilling initiative.” This group of dedicated adults forms one of what Billy Milimo of the Ministry of Education hopes will be forerunners of many adult literacy courses to be held throughout Livingstone. He intends to provide functional literacy, targeting women in particular. “In our community, we see that most of our women are not educated or have stopped their learning at grade four or five,” said Milimo. “When someone is illiterate, they cannot calculate a profit or realize they are making a loss. Adult literacy will answer these problems as well as increase understanding among all Zambian citizens.” The course at Local Cowboy Pre-school lasts ten weeks, after which another batch of students will be registered for the next beginner and intermediate courses. 2013 events Livingstone 10 - 14 April Tuesdays & Thursdays Yoga 8.30hrs to 9.30 hrs Livingstone Golf Club Phone Bev: + 260 979959981 Wednesdays SOURCE: TOURDAFRIQUE KATE PALLETT Touch Rugby 17.30hrs Livingstone Golf Club Contact J.T: + 260 974269646 Tour d'Afrique Waterfront - Charmaine Phone + 260 213 320 606/ + 260 (0) 977 693 147 http://tourdafrique.com/ Fridays - during term Cake Sale Acacia School 11.00hrs to 13.00hrs Sonja Clay: + 260 977126526 Fridays Weekly art classes for children Agnus Buya + 260 977325799 Rotary Club 13.00hrs - 14.00hrs Venue to be advised Phone Sue + 260 965888810 Golf Tournaments & Competitions Livingstone Golf & Country Club Mrs Yataba + 260 0966 640 675 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend LIVINGSTONE 2013 MAR APR MAY 43 CHARITY Hell and High Water PETER ROBERTS www.charitychallenge.com/comic-relief-challenge-yourself.html ix celebrities from the UK took on the Zambezi Challenge in January to raise money for the British charity Comic Relief. Former Spice Girl Melanie Chisholm, actress Chelsee Healey, DJ Greg James, Olympian Phillips Idowu and comedians Dara O'Briain and Jack Dee battled the rapids and dodged the rocks, crocs and hippos as they canoed and rafted over 111km down the Zambezi River over five days. The team followed David Livingstone’s original journey downstream to the Victoria Falls and finished off the challenge rafting the famous white-water rapids below the Victoria Falls. At the end of the challenge the official Red Nose Day website said the team were ‘exhausted, exhilarated and very soggy.’ The Hell and High Water challenge proved to be one of the more dangerous fundraising tasks attempted in the name of Comic Relief. Concerns were raised on day two after Idowu and O’Briain, travelling at the back of the group, made an unintended break-away expedition and disappeared down a side channel. O’Briain was left clinging to a tree for over half an hour after losing his paddle and being thrown from his raft by the rapids. He was safely rescued by the support crew. The Hell and High Water challenge hopes to raise £1million to help school children in Zambia. On day three the team visited Siandunda Village and followed school children on their daily two hour walk just to get to their local school. The Hell and High Water challenge proved to be one of the more dangerous fundraising tasks attempted in the name of Comic Relief The completion of the challenge marks 25 years since the first Comic Relief Red Nose Day event, and, thanks to the generosity of the British public, over £600 million has been donated during 13 Red Nose Days PHOTOS: TOM DYMOND/COMIC RELIEF LTD/REX FEATURES www.rednoseday.com/donate/zambezi The Comic Relief team visited Siandunda Village then Mandia School since. The money raised is used to transform the lives of countless people, both in the UK and Africa. The BT Red Nose Challenge: Hell and High Water documentary, which shows what went on down the Zambezi, and what the team went through will be aired in the UK during Red Nose Day 2013, on 15 March. Do you want to follow in the footsteps of the Hell and High Water team? The organisers plan to rerun this challenge and open up several challenge dates following the broadcast of the BT Red Nose Challenge: Hell and High Water documentary. Jack Dee walking with the school hildren THE GREENS INN & CHINESE CUISINE Chinese Restaurant & Guest House Plot 75 along Lusaka Road (opposite big water tank) Real and fresh Chinese food in Livingstone +260 213 323 103 E-mail: [email protected] www.thegreensinnzambia.com +260(0)3 327271 / 323141 [email protected] www.africanview.it 44 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend LIVINGSTONE CONFERENCE Experts to gather in Livingstone ZT CORRESPONDENT www.www.livingstone2013.net Celebrating the diversity of Livingstone As part of the global set of events to mark the bicentenary of the birth of David Livingstone, Livingstone Zambia is to host an international academic conference on Dr David Livingstone in June. Over three days, experts from around the world will meet to exchange different ideas and views about the life and legacy of Livingstone and his followers, as well as related topics in the field of humanitarian intervention, slavery, colonial rule, imperialism and education. This event will bring together a diverse group of people - historians, curators, literary scholars, geographers, anthropologists, explorers, journalists, NGO workers, installation artists, teachers and novelists. Keynote addresses will be given by author Tim Jeal, Professor John Mackenzie ACCOMMODATION March 19 David Livingstone Memorial Service 19 Champagne RECEPTION & Fireworks APRIL 13 Inter-business 7-ASIDE Football TOURNAMENT 19–21 INTERNATIONAL ACADEMIC CONFERENCE TBA Friendly international football match MAY 4 THE DAVID LIVINGSTONE GOLF TOURNAMENT June TBA International Cultural carnival 18 The PUT FOOT RALLY * 29 Fishing Competition starts AUGUST 3–4 The BAREFEET THEATRE TBA MOTORCROSS FUN ENDURO RALLY 24–29 UNWTO GENERAL ASSEMBLY with Zimbabwe * SEPTEMBER TBA INTERNATIONAL ROWING REGATTA * OCTOBER 28 The Zambezi River festival starts * 23 ST MARY’S SCHOOL CALNE, UK, to HELP BUILD SCHOOL FOR VUNERABLE children NEAR CHAMA NOVEMBER 15-16 2-DAY K1 invitation Canoe Challenge 16 GRANDE FINALE, LIVINGSTONE ISLAND TONE BI GS NT V I D L I VI DA CE N E N A RY 19 MarCH–16 November 2013 ACCOMMODATION 181 3–2 013 Chanters Lodge: Stay at Chanters Lodge in Livingstone, great food, wonderful garden with pool, comfortable reasonably priced rooms in Lukulu Crescent, off Obote Avenue. Phone: + 260 213 323412 Email: [email protected] http://www.chanters-livingstone.com twitter/@livilodge Zigzag Bed & Breakfast: Clean, comfortable, affordable accommodation in Livingstone town, only 7kms from Victoria Falls. All rooms have en-suite facilities, air-conditioning, secure parking, beautiful gardens, swimming pool, children’s play area, DSTV,free WiFi for guests, delicious food served all day, licenced bar. Phone: + 260 213 322814 Mobile: + 260 (0) 977681741 E-mail: [email protected] www.zigzagzambia.com ACTIVITIES July 1–2 FISHING COMPETITION www.livingstone2013.com [email protected] +263 (0) 712 208 370 BEER, WINE & SPIRITS GIFT SHOP Reflections: Camping equipment. Good selection of assorted cards and gifts for all occasions. Located: Falls Park Mall Mobile : + 260 (0) 977788575 DAVID Livingstone BICENTENARY CELEBRATiONS * non-bicentenary events conference will be opened by Chief Mukuni. The conference is being jointly run by the Livingstone Museum and the Department of International History at the London School of Economics (LSE), in association with the Livingstone 2013 events committee. It has been generously supported by the LSE Annual Fund as part of the School’s commitment to its Africa Initiative. livingstone CLASSIFIEDS Advertise in Livingstone Classifieds and Keith Hart, while speakers include Gary Clendennen, Brian Stanley, Friday Mufuzi, Kaluso Walimu, Sekibakiba Peter Lekgothi, Sarah Worden, Justin Livingstone, Joel Quirk, Joanna Lewis, Jonas Gjersø, Ben de Ponti, Sybren Renema, Stacey Sommerdyk, Leila Koivunen, Lawrence Dritsas, Brian Murray and Julie Davidson. There will also be workshops for graduate students. The VICTORIA FALLS, ZAMBIA LIVINGSTONE 2013 Fawlty Towers Lodge: Private air – conditioned en-suite rooms & dormitory accommodation, set in a large garden with swimming pool, braai area. Sauna & beauty salon. Free airport pick-ups and daily shuttles to the Falls. Situated opposite Shoprite, Mosi-oa-Tunya Square. Phone: + 260 213 323432 Mobile: + 260 (0) 972250154 Email: [email protected] Ngolide Lodge Ngolide Lodge: Well equipped airconditioned newly re-furbished rooms. Our “ Golden Leaf Restaurant “ serves Indian/Continental cuisine. Located : Mosi-oa –Tunya Road Lodge : + 260 213 321091/2 Restaurant : + 260 213 321266 E-mail : [email protected] E- mail : [email protected] www.ngolidelodge.com Walk With The Rhino on a 3 hour ‘walking safari’ in the Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park. Incltusive pick-up and drop-off, park fees, professional guide, game scout , light breakfast, halfway snacks, cold water/soft drinks. ‘ TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE’ LIVINGSTONE SAFARIS Tel : + 260 213 322267 Cell : + 260 (0) 977450716 E-mail :[email protected] AUTO REPAIR Bennett Engineering: Professional engine assembling, vehicle maintenance and servicing. Skimming of cyclinder heads. Reborring/ skimming engine blocks. Press fit conrods. Test/set/fit injector nozzles. Fitting of cam bushes. Vehicle diagnostic. Import spares from South Africa. Mosi-os-Tunya Road, opposite Falls Park Mall Contact : + 260 213 321611 Mobile : +260 (0) 978308936 Kazuma Enterprises Ltd: Is Zambia’s largest liquour importer supplying the Zambian market with premium international brands of beer, liquor and spirits. The company is dedicated and passionate about supplying only the best and believes in ‘ Quality Without Compromise’. Call: + 260 (0) 969 778 406 Warehouse 215, 217 Area next to Zambia Sugar, 215 Mosi-oa – Tunya Road E-mail : [email protected] BOOKS & STATIONERY Bookworld Livingstone: Selling a good selection of children’s, professional, reference and educational books at affordable prices. Stationery items available. Mosi-oa-Tunya Square. Contact us + 260 213 321414 BUTCHERY Fallsmeat Ltd:Top quality meat, biltong and boerwors and many other products. Mosi-oa-Tunya Road, Livingstone Town Centre. Phone + 260 (0) 979497181 FOR SALE Kafue Sprite: Good second-hand boat with out-board 115 HP EVENRUD engine. Contact Roy at Chhana’s. Mobile : 00 260 (0) 955443557 HARDWARE Vadoma Ltd: Suppliers of building, electricial materials, paints, carpentry and glue products. Agents for tap supplies, glass cutting, cement etc.Mosi-oa-Tunya Road opposite Mukuni Park. Contact tel/fax : + 260 213 322521 Mobile: + 260 (0) 977141874 E-mail: [email protected] PAINT SHOP Diotech Ltd: We specialise in household/ industrial paints and Cemcrete products. We also mix household and automotive paints to your specifications. Falls Park Mall, Livingstone. Phone:+260 213 320082 Mobile: + 260 (0) 977882399 RESTAURANTS Laughing Dragon Chinese Restaurant: Superb Sichuan Cuisine, take-aways & restaurant. Self-contained local accommodation. John Hunt Way behind Post Office. Phone : + 260 213 322555 Mulako’s Restaurant : We prepare delicious Zambian tradional meals. Come in and try our a la carte menu with East African, vegetarian and Norwegian dishes. Open 08.00 – 22.00hrs daily Located at Queens Park Shopping Centre behind Fairmount Hotel. Phone : 00 260 (0) 977 611 iPad app that through its images Quarterly distribution and interesting stories brings to 30,000 life the Zambezi Region and all its wonder. iPad users can expect a worldwide new app every quarter. September www.zambezitraveller.com Tabloid Newspaper l Website l Quarlerly E-newsletter l Social Media l iPad and December 2012 editions are available on the App Store. Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend LIVINGSTONE AVIATION 2013 MAR APR MAY 45 ENTOMOLOGY Flying ace trains pilots ZT CORRESPONDENT Leading aviation expert Tim Allen with a model of the Jetsream 41 aircraft he helped to develop Proflight’s on-going commitment to safety and follows the award in November of an Air Operators Certificate from the Department of Civil Aviation. The certificate is issued with the oversight of the International Civil Aviation Organisation, confirming that the airline meets rigorous safety, security and operational standards. The licence marks a new chapter in Zambia’s aviation industry and paves the way for Proflight to start flying on international routes in the region. Allen started his career in 1962 at the age of 17 when he was awarded a Royal Air Force flying scholarship and gained his private pilot’s licence. After university he spent 20 years with the RAF, working as an instructor and test pilot on a range of aircraft from supersonic fighter jets to bombers. He then joined leading aerospace company BAE Systems, where he was a test pilot for ten years, helping to certify the Jetstream 32 aircraft in 1987 and becoming project test pilot for the development of the company’s Jetstream 41. PHOTOS: TODD JOHNSON ne of the world’s most experienced aviation experts visited Zambia in February to provide Proflight Zambia aircrew with state-of-the-art ground school training for its Jetstream 32 aircraft. The pilots received instruction from ace pilot Tim Allen – a man who has flown some 71 different aircraft types and clocked more than 10,000 flying hours in a career spanning 50 years. The 67-year-old former test pilot, who was instrumental in developing the 29seater Jetstream 41 aircraft also used by Proflight, has been advising the airline on fine-tuning its operations. “I know the Jetstream inside out, so I was working with the pilots to help them get the best out of the aircraft,” said Allen, who trained 15 of Proflight’s pilots flying Jetstream planes. Asked what makes a good pilot, he said: “You have to have a feel for the aircraft and see what’s going on, and be very, very interested. The learning never stops.” “We are honoured to be benefiting from Tim Allen’s experience and wisdom,” Proflight’s Director of Government and Industry Affairs, Capt Philip Lemba said. “We are always striving for ways to maintain our strength and improve our operations so that we can better serve our customers.” The training is part of SOURCE: PROFLIGHT www.flyzambia.com Aptly named ‘praying mantis’ Are they praying or preying? Introducing a distinctive group of insects commonly found near the Zambezi – the mantids or mantises, which are harmless and help to control other insect numbers. has the greatest diversity of about 880 species. The name ‘praying mantis’ Todd Johnson is the Curator is often interchanged with of Entomology, Department of ‘preying mantis’ because Natural History, Livingstone mantids are predatory inMuseum sects. The word mantis was borrowed from the Greek language where it means [email protected] prophet. These insects are actually called praying mantises There are many fascinating for their typical prayer-like insects to be seen along the stance. Use of the term ‘preyZambezi River. One such ing,’ though wrongly misgroup is the praying mantids. spelled by most people except Mantids or mantises are car- for entomologists, remains nivorous insects belonging to widely acceptable. the insect group Mantodea. Mantises have exception‘Praying’ mantises or manally good hunting skills. They tids is the common name for are able to ambush prey by insects in this group. There disguising themselves and reare approximately 1,800 spe- maining motionless for long cies of mantids in the world periods. Their natural blend with the highest number of of body colour or camouflage species in the tropics. Africa is also used to avoid predaTODD JOHNSON tion. They normally eat what they have killed themselves. Their diet is mainly made up of insects but non insects are also eaten. Unlike assassin bugs which suck fluids from the bodies of their prey, praying mantises actually chew their victims. For most of us, praying mantises are pests, while others consider them harmful. It is true that they can bite but the bite is harmless. When cornered, the praying mantis will strike with its spiked forelegs before attempting to bite if the attacker persists. If you encounter praying mantises in the bush or in your gardens, my advice is to leave them alone. They are very important in controlling other insects which are harmful to our garden plants and food crops in our fields. FACT file Mantids • During mating, the female bites off the male’s head and eats it. • In Southern Africa, legend has it that the praying mantis was referred to as a god among the Khoisan people. • In China, some mantis species have increased their chances of survival by supplementing their meat diet with pollen. • The European mantis, Mantis religiosa, is the state insect of Connecticut in the USA, even though it is not indigenous to North America. CHARITY PHOTO: SUN INTERNATIONAL Caring cyclists raise funds for children ZT CORRESPONDENT www.charitycycletour.co.za The Sun City Cycle Club The 2013 Charity Cycle Tour route and team on the steps of the Zambezi Sun Hotel, Livingstone, Victoria Falls officially known as The Charity Cycling Club, is a fully accredited non-profit organization in existence for the last eleven years. The Club’s focus is to practise and broaden the sport of cycling whilst raising funds for various charities that benefit impoverished children. The Club encourages interested and committed individuals from all walks of life and various International countries to join them in their fundraising efforts. They use cycling to achieve their objectives through a challenging Cycle Tour which incorporates fun, enthusiasm, dedication, commitment and participation from the cyclists, at the same time raising funds for the chosen charities. Annually in March The Charity Cycling Club embarks on a fundraising initiative with the aim of raising funds for the benefit of destitute children. The 2013 Cycle Tour set off from the Zambezi Sun Hotel in Livingstone on Friday 22 February and finished with the teams arrival at the Table Bay Hotel in Cape Town, 4 countries, 13 days and 3,000km later. Zambia 46 LUANGWA ISSUE 10 FOR IPAD APP ONLY On your way to the Zambezi GID’S COLUMN CHRISTINA ‘GID’ CARR Introducing the first in a series of four columns by experienced safari hand Gid Carr www.normancarrsafaris.com n that great era of discovery when you could still name an animal after yourself, the hunter and collector Captain Richard Crawshay identified a new sub-species of plains Zebra. We love our Crawshay’s zebra which trot proudly around the Luangwa and Lower Zambezi valleys, defiant and dazzling with their clean, neat stripes and ever rotund bellies. In the Luangwa Valley, the Kunda and Bisa people call zebra ‘chimbwete’ or ‘boli,’ and the Goma people of the Lower Zambezi call them ‘mbidzi.’ Luangwa legend has it that traditional hunters were reluctant to kill and eat zebra - apparently their genitalia resemble that of humans too closely! Herds usually consist of a stallion and his harem of fillies – he will establish this harem by abducting young females in their first oestrus from other herds. The females don’t seem to mind, in fact they advertise their availability by straddling their legs, lowering their heads and raising their tails. Once part of the harem and bonded to their herd master, they keep subsequent periods of oestrus between themselves and their stallion. A new harem member is initially given a tough time by the incumbent Thoughts from two great African valleys – the Luangwa and the Middle Zambezi females but creeps up the hierarchy as she becomes established. She will give birth well away from the herd; mother and foal spend two or three days bonding before rejoining the family. Then, as they mature sexually, the males drift off to join other bachelors and the fillies stay around until some stallion Valentino sweeps them off their hooves. There have been many ‘how did the zebra get its stripes’ theories. One of the latest hypothesises that the stripes discourage tsetse flies and other bloodsucking insects. Zebra stripes apparently disrupt polarised light, making the animals unattractive to the insects. So far we haven’t seen any safari guests arriving in zebra stripes. However, judging by the number of zebra we see with huge scars on their rumps where a lion has PHOTO : WILL BURRARD-LUCAS, NORMAN CARR SAFARIS Valley to Valley almost brought them down, zebra stripes might not be the best choice of attire for walking safaris! I’m told that Crawshay’s is easily distinguishable from other more common or garden plains Zebra by the fact that its lower incisors lack an infundibulum. Of course – so obvious! But whatever it is that distinguishes them, we are fiercely proud of ‘our’ zebras. Thank you, Captain Crawshay, for noticing that lack of an infundibulum. Crawshay zebra A zebra by any other name… Researching this piece has thrown up an interesting conundrum. There has been some question whether the Lower Zambezi zebra is in fact Crawshay’s. The received knowledge appears to be that they are Crawshay’s and even the rigorous LZ guides exams perpetuate this. Evidently however, no-one can say with 100% certainty that they are indeed Crawshay’s. Comments, insights and information most welcome! Editor’s Note: More about zebra on page 21 DRAMA PHOTOS: MARIA-JOSE CARBALLO Die another day! ROBIN POPE SAFARIS www.robinpopesafaris.net [email protected] Hyena waits for a potential meal; keeping its head above water, survival instincts for this puku are strong It’s a new year in the Luangwa Valley, and this means new growth, with everything lush and green from all the rain. Along with the new growth comes new life. Baby impalas, zebras and warthogs are running all over the place, as well as the cutest lion cubs you’ve ever seen. It’s a truly special time to visit, and River Journeys explore the Luangwa River at its most dramatic. Apart from boating, walking safaris and game drives complete the River Journeys experience. Recently guests were treated to a nail biting game drive. The guests noticed several hyenas purposefully heading towards a shallow lagoon. They followed and found a puku in the middle of the lagoon. Assuming it was stuck in the mud, they thought the hyenas would quickly close in, but the hyenas were hesitant. What was going on? A sudden splash gave the answer; a young crocodile was trying to make a meal out of the puku. A struggled ensued with the crocodile grabbing the puku by its neck, its muzzle and even its ear at one stage. Despite the crocodile’s efforts, the puku always managed stay above the water. Once it even made it out of the lagoon, but the presence of the hyenas made it jump back into the water. Eventually both the hyenas and the crocodile lost interest and the poor puku lived to die another day! Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend THE BACK PAGE Letters i 2013 MAR APR MAY The Zambezi Traveller welcomes letters to the Editor to [email protected] 47 Quarterly distribution 30,000 worldwide Editor’s Note: Please note the previous issue to this was in fact Issue 11. It was labelled incorrectly as Issue 10. Dear Frances, your an d went onto ck from lea ve – it I am just ba ue iss g do ld e wi ve a look at th website to ha pecially. es ge pa nt e fro thank you! Th y. is gorgeous, time” as we sa ow e you “big gs do ld wi d Cheetahs an Correction: Please note that the angling story “Catch and release – the trial” on page 32 for Kariba and Middle Zambezi was incorrectly credited. The writer of the story is Mana Meadows. Dear Frances, I do hope all is well with you? Can I receive more copies of Issue 11, and other issues. I did receive Issue 11one copy posted to me, thank you. I would like to distribute copies to customers and business friends from Mocambique, Malawi, RSA and locally. If 50 copies could be arranged I would collect them. Many thanks and I am very proud of the Zambezi Traveller – the only truthful news media, other than the Bible of course! Issue 11 is a great job done by you all – well done! On behalf of Hwange Lion Research I just want to thank you for your continued support on project news – all this helps us! As a wild dog issue – I am bringing up a film crew from Brazil in April to Mana to do a documentary/ travel feature – so this also helps the cause – thanks again. Kind Regards, Brian Courtenay, SATIB Sincerely, John Slade, Payns Boats P/L Zambezi Traveller – A Wake-Up Pill To Africa! Email [email protected] for subscription enquiries. Dear Teddy, Thank you for the fabulous latest issue of Zambezi Traveller, Issue 11, it’s great! Really super actually. Compliments of the season to you and your team, I hope 2013 will be a very good year for you. Best regards, Martin Wells Summit Publishing cc Cape Town, South Africa Ta ke ca re, Hi Teddy, Dear Teddy, I would like to say thank you for the paper’s Issue 11 which l have just received and which my daughter has really fallen for as they have some lovely things in them. She really liked the write ups on the cheetahs and also the bits on the rhinos. She gets very disturbed when she sees stories on rhino poaching. This news paper carries a lot of info on every thing for all ages. Thank you once again and look forward to the next issue. Kind regards, Mark Denton Bulawayo Zimbabwe The traveller’s friend, a definitive guide for destinations along the Zambezi. Distributed world wide to travel agents, industry shows, hotels, lodges and key public areas throughout the region, including capital cities. Expose your destination, activities, businesses to an international market through Zambezi Traveller. Accounts, Advertising & Subscriptions tty) Purchase cheetah Dr Giane tta (Ne programme for tor,Range wide Lead Coordina CS m L/W [email protected] conser vation ZS zsl.org or spotted Email: cheetah@ tahandwilddog.org hee Website: ww w.c Teddy Brightman Dear Frances, Victoria Falls, Chobe, Caprivi and Windhoek Tel: +263 (0) 712 217 178 Email: [email protected] Editorial & Advertising Dear Teddy, Dear Frances, I’d like to thank you for the latest edition of Zambezi Traveller. It arrived this week. I also received all the back copies you sent, though cannot remember if I let you know. I like the several articles you have on the painted dog. May this be a fruitful year for you and your paper. I have been reading Issue 11 online. Zambezi Traveller is fantastic Frances. I haven’t sat down & read it for a long time. I have now subscribed to the newsletter & our son who is a FAGASA field guide has done so as well. He does many trips to the Zambezi Basin. We are moving at the end of March, I do not want to miss the ZT copies. Would you kindly send some copies to our new address. Much appreciated. Yours, Jane Boswell Hi Teddy, Thanks for the great article A Milestone for Chobe Marina and A New Lodge Rises in the hills in Issue 11 of Zambezi Traveller It has generated a lot of interest. Regards Heath Dhana (CHA, MIH) Chief Operating Officer, Chobe Marina Kind Regards, Lynette Cape Town, South Africa Note from the Editor: Thank you for sharing your memories with us Lynette in “ Wonders of an African Childhood”. I am glad that you are recording these for your family. Read on page 41. I am holding another beautiful edition of your paper and am always thrilled by your publication - congratulations! I would humbly like to offer a poem I wrote some years ago which you are free to publish if you find it suitable. Show me Africa I want to live. I want to walk with the king of the beasts, swim where the elephants swim, ride through the tawny expanse. I want to come fully alive. Tingle without the boundaries of humanity. I want to live! I want to taste the earth - red and homeless, touch the wild, fearless and free. I want to stand beside a waterfall and laugh at the dew on my face. I want to dance in the savannah where the buffalo roam and painted dog pause. Let me live! I want to run and not grow faint, give me Africa! I want to wake to the whisper of sunrise, warm by the touch of her glow. Show me Africa! I want to rise up, peer from the escarpment of hope and soar where the fish eagle rests upon the thermals of dawn. I want to live. Show me Africa. Frances Jackson Victoria Falls, Kariba, Middle Zambezi (Zambia and Zimbabwe), Livingstone, Lusaka and Mozambique. Tel: +263 (0) 712 208 370 Email: [email protected] Advertising Pam Lindsay Harare, Kariba and Lower Zambezi Tel: +263 (0) 772 230 971 Tel: +263 (0) 714 305 886 Email: [email protected] Advertising Kabili Branding Zambia Tel: 0968 469 012 Tel: 0955 469 012 Email: [email protected] Advert Design & Make Up Stefania Origgi Tel: +27 (0) 828804005 Email: [email protected] Social Media Development Pete Roberts Email: [email protected] Editorial Submissions Zambezi Traveller welcomes editorial submissions but reserves the right to publish. Email in Word format to [email protected]. Publisher The Zambezi Traveller P.O. Box 183, Victoria Falls Zimbabwe Design & Layout Stefania Origgi Matthew Mbanga Printing Strand Multiprint FOLLOW US OBITUARY www.zambezitraveller.com Keith Joubert – a personal tribute PETER COMLEY www.keith-joubert.com Africa has lost a great talent. Keith Joubert was unquestionably one of the most gifted artists this continent has produced. He was born in humble surroundings in Germiston in 1948, grew up in the tough Johannesburg suburb of Mayfair, and passed away in the affluent north of Johannesburg at the end of January 2013, aged 64. That bare outline of his life belies his compulsion to travel to remote places and commune with the wild, there to gather the mental images he captured on canvas like no other before him. He had many imitators, but before they could catch up he would simply raise his game. He changed forever the way Africa would be painted. Joubert’s works hang in many major corporate and private collections around the world and his clients include royalty from Europe and the Middle East. He has held major exhibitions in many of the art capitals of the world including London, New York and Johannesburg. But to talk of Joubert solely as an artist would be an injustice to my close friend and godfather to my daughter. Over the twenty odd years that we were friends I came to know a man who embraced life more fully than anyone else I have met. Whether he was working, partying or travelling he did it uncompromisingly, at full throttle. Half measures and mediocrity he despised as much as he did arrogance. He was at his most combative when it came to seeking solutions facebook.com/zambezitraveller twitter.com/thezambezi youtube.com/zambezitraveller http://linkd.in/UYIQgG pinterest.com/zambezitravel to conservation issues; his unique mind would search for answers outside the box. Where most followed convention, Joubert blazed new trails. Success in this world attracts material gain, but Joubert disdained the accumulation of objects and his sprawling farm home was Spartanly furnished, while his studios in the Botswana bush were tents or simple cabins. He was able to treat everyone in the same jovial manner, whether a client from the British Royal Family or a petrol attendant at a dusty station. He caused many people to smile. Keith Joubert’s death leaves a hole in the lives of Val, the woman he loved so transparently and deeply, and his talented brother, Dereck, and Bev, as well as his beloved goddaughter - not to mention princesses, friends and ordinary people around Africa. SUBSCRIBE Teddy Brightman [email protected] DISCLAIMER: All information and points of view are those of the people who submitted them, and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the Editors or publishers. Whilst every effort has been made to ascertain the validity of the information submitted, Zambezi Traveller cannot be held responsible for any inaccuracies. Zambezi Traveller does not accept any liability for any advertising copy/content not received correctly. Zambezi Traveller reserves the right to refuse advertising material that does not meet its specifications or advertising standards. 48 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend THE BACK PAGE VICTORIA FALLS INVESTMENT Luxury cruise boat due in May ZT CORRESPONDENT www.zambeziexplorer.com [email protected] An artists impression of the cruise boat and its three decks The boat has three decks linked by wide stairways; the first deck, accommodating 50 people, and the second deck taking 60, are both equipped to supply first class service. The top signature deck sits a limited 30 people with exclusive service, complete with deep couches, telescopes, a selection of books and bar with premium brands and cigars can be enjoyed. Each deck has seating arranged to provide guests with an out- ward view onto the river. The Zambezi Explorer will offer sunrise, lunch, sunset and dinner cruises. Top quality chefs, with the use of a fully functional state of the art onboard kitchen, will provide guests with the finest cuisine. This includes a selection of teas and freshly brewed coffee to see in the sunrise, delicious snacks for the afternoon and evening and high tea on special request. the quintessential zambezi river, victoria falls experience Weddings A N D S PEC I A L O C CA S I O N F U N C T I O N S Personalized service PHOTO: TOM VARLEY I N T ER N AT I O N A L conferencing INCENTIVE GROUPS · D I N N ER A N D LU N C H C R U I S ES M E N U S D E V E LO PED BY R E N O W N ED LO CA L C H EF, PR OV I D I N G G O U R M E T C U I S I N E F O O D CA N B E B E TA I LO R - M A D E TO G R O U P R EQ U I R E M E N T S LU X U R I O U S S U N D O W N ER A N D N E W S U N R I S E C R U I S ES E XC E L L E N T F O R B OA R D M EE T I N G S A N D B U S I N ES S F U N C T I O N S Reservations – [email protected] General enquiries – [email protected] Telephone – 00263 13 42475/ 44453/ 44618 WWW.ZAMBEZIEXPLORER.COM Facebook- www.facebook.com/zambeziexplorer · Twitter- ExplorerZambezi · Skype- zambezi explorer PHOTO: TOM VARLEY or centuries, the Zambezi River has seen vessels of all shapes and sizes navigating its waters, for survival, pleasure or exploration. In April this year, the Zambezi Explorer, a magnificent custom designed cruise boat, will make its way from the construction yard in Harare to the Zambezi River above Victoria Falls for its maiden voyage in May. This vessel is inspired by veteran industry entrepreneurs. It is 27 meters in length and eight metres in height, and designed with luxury in mind, aiming to offer the passenger the highest standard of service whilst onboard. In order to reduce the environmental impacts, electrical energy used for most of the functions on the boat will be harnessed through a network of photovoltaic cells which line the top most surface of the vessel. Guests will enjoy river elephant sightings • 3 decks with 5 star service • Accommodates max 140 pax • The top deck is the ‘signature deck’ and is limited to 30 pax with exclusive service. The top deck has a library, telescopes, fully stocked bar with premium brands and cigars • 70 tonnes • + 8metres off the waterline at highest point • 27m in length • Solar powered on board lighting and electrical system • Coffee making machine: cappuccino, lattes, machiato, and espresso etc on top deck • Cigar bar • 3 bars • WI-FI access • Conference AV facilities • Wheelchair access • Sunrise, lunch, high tea • Sunset and dinner cruise options • On-board cuisine • WC janitor on-board 02 MAR APR MAY 2013 Zambezi Traveller Traveller’s friend WELCOME TRANSFRONTIER PARKS New wings over Western Zambia ALAN SPARROW he Zambian Minister of Tourism and Arts, Sylvia T Masebo MP, officially opened the Ngonye Falls Partnership Park in August 2012. On 26 February this year the minister flew in to Ngonye Falls accompanied by senior government officials and the CEO of the Peace Parks Foundation, W Myburgh. Their mission was to formally receive the donation of a Bat Hawk microlight aircraft to be based at Ngonye Falls. The donation also provided for an aircraft hangar. The donors are Mr Neville and Mrs Pamela Isdell. Mr and Mrs Isdell were present at the ceremony to hand over the aircraft. The Minister thanked Mr and Mrs Isdell for their generous donation and the Peace Parks Foundation for facilitating it. PHOTOS: TOM VARLEY www.peaceparks.org Mr Errol Pietersen will fly the Bat Hawk. Pietersen is based at the Ngonye falls and provides technical support to the senior staff of the Zambia Wildlife Authority in charge of the Sioma Ngwezi National Park FACT file The Bat Hawk will be a major boost to the management of the Sioma Ngwezi National Park, assisting authorities to monitor human wildlife conflict in the community areas surrounding the park, where crop raiding by elephant is a major threat to the food security of rural farmers. The microlight will be flown by Mr Errol Pietersen who is funded by the Peace Parks Foundation to provide technical support to the Zambia Wildlife Authority field officers at Sioma Ngwezi . The Peace Parks Foundation has worked closely with Mrs Pamela Isdell, Mr Neville Isdell, The Honourable Minister Of Tourism and Arts Mrs Sylvia T Masebo Mp, and Mr Werner Myburgh, CEO Of The Peace Parks Foundation the Zambian government to develop the Zambian component of the Kavango Zambezi Transfrontier Conservation Area (Kaza TFCA). The Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy is now establishing a wildlife sanctuary on the Simalaha floodplains and will translocate wildlife into the protected sanctuary in the winter of 2013, with initial animals being donated by the Zambia Wildlife Authority. The Simalaha Community Wildlife Conservancy is an exciting new model of communitydriven conservation that will Transboundary zebra movements Elephants Without Borders (EWB) has released preliminary research findings which show zebra migrating over staggering distances in Botswana, including what may well be the longest transboundary mammal migration in southern Africa. The importance of transfrontier parks is further emphasized by these exciting findings. Dr Mike Chase, director for Elephants Without Borders, illustrates the routes these Zebra are taking with this map. Recent Peace Park Foundation project successes • The South African College for Tourism which in 2012 won the Mail and Guardian’s ‘Investing in the Future of Education Award.’ The Peace Parks Foundation also sponsors the South African Wildlife College which trains field rangers and park managers from all over southern Africa. The MAVA Foundation for Nature is supporting the costs of training over the next three years. The college also trains professional guides for TFCAs in the region. • The Greater Mapungubwe TFCA (Botswana/ South Africa/ Zimbabwe) has been established by the three governments with each phase being facilitated by the Peace Parks Foundation. In September 2012 an aerial survey of elephant populations in the develop the wildlife conservancy along similar lines to the community wildlife conservancies that have been a success story in Namibia and Botswana. The Peace Parks Foundation enjoys the support of international public funders, financial institutions and Central Limpopo River Valley was carried out. • In Mozambique the Maputo Special Reserve (Mozambique) and Tembe Elephant Park (South Africa) have been rehabilitated. In September 2012 an aerial survey showed movement of elephant between the two parks, across borders. • Malawi/ Zambia TFCAs: In 2012 the two governments agreed on the management of the Nyika TFCA which links the Nyika Plateau across borders and has facilitated cross-border movement of elephant. • The Tracker Academy in South Africa is supported by the Peace Parks Foundation. Field rangers from transfrontier parks are trained in tracking skills. individuals that support the concept of linking conservation areas across international borders to incorporate entire biomes of sufficient size to restore the former ranges of key species such as elephant, and to reconnect the shared cultures of local communities.