Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta de

Transcription

BUYING GUIDE
OCTOBER 2012
Terraced vineyards in the Alto Douro wine region, a
UNESCO World heritage site.
2 PORTUGAL
19 SPAIN
25 PROVENCE
25 SOUTHWEST FRANCE
28 RHÔNE
32 OTHER FRANCE
33 TUSCANY
36 CENTRAL ITALY
PHOTO © MAURICIO ABREU/JAI/CORBIS
42 ARGENTINA
46 MEXICO
47 CALIFORNIA
66 OREGON
70 SPIRITS
75 BEER
FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS
AND REVIEWS, VISIT
BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM
WineMag.com | 1
PORTUGAL
PORTUGAL’S VOYAGE OF DISCOVERY
P
ortugal produces an impressive variety of wine styles. From the
crisp, light-as-a-feather wines of Vinho Verde in the north to the
rich, generous wines of the southern Alentejo, there is something
for every palate.
In this month’s reviews, three regions stand out: Vinho Verde, Douro
and Lisboa. In an age when we are craving both light and slightly sweet
wines, Vinho Verde fits the bill. The most popular style is semisweet, but
there is increasing interest in dry styles, as seen in many of the high scoring wines this month. Regional styles are emerging within the large Vinho Verde region: the elegant, rich Alvarinho wines of the far north and the
crisp Loureiro wines of the Lima Valley in the center.
Along its southern margin, Vinho Verde butts up against the Douro Valley. The Douro is still on a voyage of discovery, exploring a wide range of
styles, from light whites to complex reds and almost everything in between.
Premium table wines are still fairly new in this region; they’ve only been
produced here for less than a quarter of a century. In this relatively short
ALENTEJANO WHITES
91
Fitapreta Vinhos 2009 Palpite Reserva
Branco (Alentejano). Opulent and woodaged, this feels intense and rounded with a ripe Burgundian feel. The full weight of the peach and apricot
fruits are given a powerful push by the toast, spice and
vanilla flavors. Age this for 2–3 years. Winebridge Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
90
Adega Mayor 2010 Reserva do Comendador Branco (Alentejano). The white
Reserva from Adega Mayor is wood aged and it feels
full on the palate. It has nutmeg, citrus and apricot flavors alongside a rounded texture. Age for another two
years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Adega Mayor 2011 Monte Mayor Branco
(Alentejano). Honey and tropical fruit aromas
open the nose, leading to the palate that is warm and
ripe with pineapple and white peach fruit. The bright
acidity lends a fresh and crisply fruity finish, with notes
of citrus and apple. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
87
Herdade das Servas 2011 Branco (Alentejano). This is a very ripe and wood-aged
wine, with vanilla flavors pairing with the smooth texture of the rich pear and apricot fruits. There is a touch
of pepper from the alcohol that spoils the purity of the
fruit. Simões Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
86
Adega Mayor 2011 Caiado (Alentejano).
This is floral and aromatic, bearing soft, ripe yellow fruit, attractive acidity and a soft, rounded texture.
A shaft of citric acidity cuts through the palate, making
2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | OCTOBER 2012
time, however, two important things have happened. Touriga Nacional and
Tinta Roriz have been identified as the two great grapes for table wines,
and the Douro—dominated for centuries by the big Port houses—has become a cauldron of experimentation by small, estate-based producers, reinforcing Portugal’s claim to a place at the top table of wine.
Lisboa, whose cool-climate wines I covered in depth in the 2011 Best
of Year (December 31) issue, remains Portugal’s best source for value. The
reviews this month contain wine after wine marked as Best Buys, many retailing for under $10. Nowhere else in the world can you find such a costconscious concentration.
Light fruity whites, world-class reds and terrific value—all in one small,
astonishingly diverse country.
As always, feel free to check out all our reviews from around the world,
at buyingguide.winemag.com.
Cheers!
—Roger Voss
the wine feel lively and refreshing. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
fruit and lively green acidity. Age this for the next year.
Amara Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
86
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Monte Alentejano
Branco (Alentejano). Perfumed, with a soft,
smooth texture, this has flavors of tropical fruit, peach
and a hint of lemongrass that make for a rich wine. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
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Herdade Grande 2011 Verdelho (Alentejano). This is perfumed, soft, warm and ripe,
with smooth peach and mulberry flavors that are offset
by a citrusy tang. It’s a fine apéritif. Grape Moments.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
86
Herdade Grande 2011 Colheita Seleccionada (Alentejano). Rich and soft, this has a
creamy smooth texture, with notes of toast, ripe apple
and quince. There is a good touch of acidity to this attractive, ready to drink wine. Grape Moments. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
84
Monte Seis Reis 2010 Boa Memória
Branco (Alentejano). Soft, round and gentle,
this has a creamed apple flavor. It has a full, ripe character, with just an edge of green herb and spice. Mediterranean Specialty Products. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
DOURO WHITES
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Wines & Winemakers 2011 Lua Cheia
em Vinhas Velhas (Douro). This old-vines
white is impressive with a serious yet fruity character.
It is herbaceous, but it also shows concentration, peach
Burmester 2011 White (Douro). Deliciously fresh and perfumed, this has a white flower
aroma, with a clean and crisp line of citrusy acidity.
There is a good tang of structure, giving the wine a fine,
food-friendly shape. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Andreza Códega do Larinho (Douro). Made from the
Códega do Larinho grape (also called Síria), this is a refreshingly rich wine. It’s full in the mouth yet it retains
its natural freshness, with a touch of pepper, tangy acidity and great depth of flavor. The finish bears notes of
citrus, pear and green apple. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
87
Aveleda 2011 Aveleda Branco (Douro). A
new wine in the Aveleda line-up, this is rich and
rounded. It’s aromatic, with a full mouthfeel and flavors
of pear and green apple lifted by acidity. The finish is
full and fruity. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
87
Churchill’s 2011 Branco (Douro). Earth
aromas set the scene for this full-bodied wine.
It is rich and rounded, with the pear and peach flavors
dominating the soft texture. Made from grapes sourced
from vineyards high above the Douro River, this has
weight, although on the finish there is freshness. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
Continued on Page 13
The Wine Enthusiast
Buying Guide
The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of newrelease and selected older beverage alcohol products
evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other
qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide
include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting
Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan
Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Associate
Editor Andrew Hoover, Contributing Editor Michael
Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York,
European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Italian Editor
Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor Steve Heimoff
in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt in Seattle and
Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa Rosa.
If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s
initials appear following the note. When no initials appear
following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two
or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect
the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits
Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by
Lauren Buzzeo.
Each review contains a score, the full name of the product,
its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by
the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content
cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed.
Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated.
95
99
David Arthur 2009 Elevation 1147 Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There
are incredible aromatics on this Cabernet. It’s powerful
yet subtle (how can that be?), all about sweet, crushed
summer blackberries and pure cassis liqueur. Elaborate
oak, in the form of buttered toast, is perfectly in balance, never overshadowing the fruit. The tannins are
dry, rich and smooth, defining Napa elegance, grace and
beauty. World class, dramatic and just about perfect,
this gets better and better as it breathes in the glass.
Drink now–2030. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $150
Arnaldo Caprai 2007 25 Anni (Sagrantino di Montefalco). One of the top, if not the
top, red wines from Umbria. The naturally tannic Sagrantino grape is softened by the careful oak aging that
adds layers of chocolate and spice to the grape’s aromas
of black cherry, tobacco and leather. This is bold, powerful, masculine and velvety on the finish. Pair it with
stewed or grilled meat marinated in rosemary and garlic. Age this in a cellar for 10 years or longer. Folio Fine
Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $100
TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS
All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed
blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in
peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in
assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or
uncustomary are retasted.
ABOUT THE SCORES
Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product.
Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying
tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics.
Classic 98–100:
Superb 94–97:
Excellent 90–93:
Very Good 87–89:
Good 83–86:
Acceptable 80–82:
The pinnacle of quality.
A great achievement.
Highly recommended.
Often good value; well recommended.
Suitable for everyday consumption;
often good value.
Can be employed in casual, lesscritical circumstances.
Products deemed Unacceptable (receiving a rating below 80
points) are not reviewed.
SPECIAL DESIGNATIONS
Editors’ Choice products are those that offer excellent
quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any
price with unique qualities that merit special attention.
Cellar Selections are products deemed highly collectible
and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to
reach their maximum potential. A Cellar Selection designation
does not mean that a product must be stored to be enjoyed, but
that cellaring will probably result in a more enjoyable bottle. In
general, an optimum time for cellaring will be indicated.
Best Buys are products that offer a high level of quality in
relation to price. There are no specific guidelines or formulae
for determining Best Buys, but wines meriting this award are
generally priced at $15 or less.
SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW
Products should be submitted to the appropriate reviewing
location as detailed in our FAQ, available online via winemag.
com/contactus. Inquiries should be addressed to the Tasting
& Review Department at 914.345.9463 or email tastings@
wineenthusiast.net. There is no charge for submitting
products. We make every effort to taste all products submitted
for review, but there is no guarantee that all products submitted
will be tasted, or that reviews will appear in the magazine. All
samples must be accompanied by the appropriate submission
forms, which may be downloaded from our Web site.
LABELS
Labels are paid promotions. Producers and importers are given
the opportunity to submit labels, which are reproduced and
printed along with tasting notes and scores. For information on
label purchases, contact Denise Valenza at 813.571.1122; fax
866.896.8786; or email [email protected].
Find all reviews on our fully searchable database at
buyingguide.winemag.com
95
98
Von Strasser 2009 Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).
So enormously delicious, it will be hard to keep from
drinking this gorgeous Cabernet right away, and that’s
just fine. It’s composed of the most intensly concentrated flavors of blueberries and blackberries—dense, pure
and slightly heady with a liqueur-like alcohol. The tannins are classic Diamond Mountain, firm and minerally,
while oak plays the perfect role of the buttered toast
and sweetly charred supporting character. Despite its
immediate attraction, it’s best cellared for 6–8 years, at
the very least. Fans of old Cabernets will still be loving
it in 2029. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $70
96
Piña 2009 Ames Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). A
vital, focused Cabernet, this shows the
sheer classiness of Oakville in its concentrated blackberry and black currant
fruit. It’s seemingly sweet and dry at the
same time, and the tannins, which are
extraordinarily thick, are fine and pure.
Irresistably delicious now, this changes
in the glass by the second. It suggests it
wants some time in the cellar, so drink
now–2021. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $85
Duckhorn 2009 Three Palms Vineyard
Merlot (Napa Valley). This is classic Three
Palms Merlot—as excellent as anything Duckhorn has
ever produced. It shows the hard tannins that always
mark the winery’s Bordeaux-style red wines, but it’s luscious and deep in berry fruit, licorice, grilled meat and
cola. It should have no difficulty negotiating the years.
Give it until around 2015, but if you can’t wait, at least
decant it for a few hours. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
95
Marimar Estate 2008 Cristina Don Miguel
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The winery held this back an additional six months
after their other 2008 Pinots were released, presumably
to let it become integrated. Still, it’s quite tannic, with a
sandpaper-like toughness. Despite the astringency, the
massive wild-cherry, cola, mushroom and anise flavors
come through. It’s a huge wine, feral and untamed—
quite exquisite in its wildness. So delicious now, it’s
hard to resist, but the wise collector will cellar it for 4–5
years, maybe even longer. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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95
Trapiche 2009 Finca Jorge Miralles Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). This
is a real blaster of a Malbec, showing power, concentration and subtleties. The bouquet is full of graham cracker, cola, monster berry and moss notes, while the pure,
driving palate deals flavors of toasty blackberry, spice,
mocha and more. The lengthy but mellow finish hums
like a fine-tuned machine. Drink now–2018. The Wine
Group. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
Piña 2009 Wolff Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). This shows the richness and power associated with Piña Cabernet, but is
just a touch drier and more acidic than
the winery’s offerings from warmer parts
of Napa. With blackberry, cassis and
dark chocolate flavors that are wrapped
into ample tannins, it’s a wine that seriously wants at least 6–8 years in the cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $85
94
Duckhorn 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Howell Mountain). Bottled in March 2010
and released in September 2011, this wine is still drinking young and fresh, with firm, rustic tannins. It’s gigantic in mineral-infused blackberries and black currants;
the flavors are deep, intense and long-lasting into the
finish. An impressive wine whose astringency requires
aging, hold this until 2017, at the very least. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
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Walt 2010 The Corners Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This is a big Pinot Noir, with
an explosive intensity of cherries and raspberries that is
ripe and pure. Oak, of course, is there too, in the form
of buttered, smoky toast. However, the wine isn’t a mere
fruit bomb. It has interesting nuances of earthy things,
like mushrooms, nettles and Provençal herbs. The silky
texture is an exquisite balance of acids and tannins. This
new brand from Hall winery is made by their talented
winemaker, Steve Leveque, and it immediately enters
the California pantheon of excellent Pinot Noirs. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $60
94
Joseph Phelps 2010 Freestone Vineyards Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Bone
dry, minerally and brisk in mouthwatering acidity, this
has subtle yet rich flavors of tropical fruit, citrus, green
apple and honey. It shows real elegance and complexity;
drink now–2016. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
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94
Chappellet 2009 Pritchard Hill Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Dark and saturated in color, this has earthy and meaty aromas like
bloody, rare steak and charred bone—that sort of proteinous spirit. The actual fruit flavor is incredibly rich
and concentrated in blackberries, black currants and
crisp bacon. The impression is of a sweet, delicious
Cabernet that’s a touch warm in alcohol, but lush and
refined. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $135
Piña 2009 Firehouse Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rutherford). Cabernets just don’t get
much richer, riper or deeper than this
single-vineyard beauty. Dry, tannic and
fine in acidity, it’s a full-frontal assault of
blackberries, cassis liqueur and new oak,
concentrated beyond belief. The sheer
magnitude demands time in the cellar.
Try after 2015, and it could go far beyond that. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $85
Sobriquet Winery 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa
Maria Valley). While this Pinot is huge in fruit
and has a big, heavyweight mouthfeel, somehow it never loses its sense of delicacy and charm. The flavors are
the essence of cherries: ripe, sweet and intense. This
richness is balanced by the earthiness of a wild mushroom risotto. With brilliant acidity, it’s a wonderfully rewarding wine, easily on par with the 2009, perhaps a
shade better. The grapes come from the famed Sierra
Madre Vineyard. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
94
Trapiche 2009 Finca Domingo F. Sarmiento Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta).
This smells as deep as an ocean trench, with mint, cola,
blackberry and toast aromas all rolled into a tight bomb
that’s ready to explode. It feels balanced yet densely
concentrated, with wild berry, tobacco, savory spice and
even a mild saucy component. This finishes smooth,
with integrated leather, herb and berry flavors. Drink
any time over the next 5–6 years. The Wine Group. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
94
Viña Alicia 2008 Coleccion de Familia
Brote Negro (Luján de Cuyo). This smallproduction Malbec is superb. The bouquet smells
mossy, earthy, dense and loaded with smooth berry
aromas. It’s lush, deep and well balanced on the palate, with powerful black-fruit flavors along with fudge,
tobacco and cola notes. The feel, flavors and length are
all top quality. Drink now–2018; only 230 cases were
made. Southern Starz, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90
93
Duckhorn 2008 The Discussion Estate
Grown (Napa Valley). This is by far the most
expensive of Duckhorn’s new releases, but it’s not the
best to drink now. Based on Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s
easy to imagine the winemaker singling out the most
tannic and concentrated lots, but what you get is, simply, a very tannic wine. There’s a gigantic core of blackberry and black currant fruit, but it’s hard to appreciate
because of the astringency. The suggestion is longterm
aging, but there can be no guarantees. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
Marimar Estate 2008 Dobles Lías Don
Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). This late-released bottling is incredibly
interesting. Connoisseurs will appreciate the bone-dry
minerality and acidity, the subtle creaminess from lees
aging and the citrusy flavors that just begin to suggest
tropical fruit. It should continue to develop in the bottle
for a few more years. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
93
Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 La Louvée Syrah (Cornas). A full-bodied, rich wine, with
tannins either supremely smoooth or just concealed under masses of plummy fruit. Yet despite the enormous
ripeness, it’s not lacking nuance, boasting savory notes
of espresso and leather. Drinkable now, but should age
through 2023, at least. Palm Bay International. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $84
Tenuta di Biserno 2007 Il Pino di Biserno (Toscana). From Marchese Lodovico Antinori’s beautiful wine estate in Bibbona, this boasts the
heritage of the great super Tuscan family to which it belongs. The blend is Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot, and the overall effect is
simply gorgeous. Richness, generosity and persistence
characterize the mouthfeel, and the bouquet is driven
by aromas of red cherry, chocolate and spice. Drink after 2015. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
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Baldacci 2010 Sorelle Chardonnay
(Carneros). This is powerful in tropical fruit,
apricot and oak flavors, but balanced with acidity and a
tangy, minerally taste of stones. Rich and evocative, it
appeals to the senses while retaining a complex intellectual charm. Drink now with lobster or crab dishes,
especially a rich, buttery risotto. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $38
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Cave de Tain 2009 Gambert de Loche
(Hermitage). With its massively concentrated
blackberry fruit framed in ample new oak, this bears
a bit of resemblance to some Australian Shirazes. It’s
mouthfilling but supple, with nuances of Christmas
spices like cinnamon, clove and anise that linger on
the long finish. Drink 2014–2023. Cognac One, LLC.
—J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
Korbin Kameron 2008 Cuvée Kristin Estate Blend Red Wine (Sonoma Valley).
Delicious and classy, this is based on Merlot, with the
other four classic Bordeaux varieties in proper proportion. It flatters immediately with its wealth of blackberries, black cherries, cola and mocha that finish so dry
and spicy, yet it has that extra complexity that makes it
intellectually interesting. Drink now and over the next
six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
Trapiche 2009 Finca Suarez Lastra Single
Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). Gorgeous
balsam wood and graphite aromas blend seamlessly
with ripe berry and black coffee scents. It feels lively yet
cushioned, tasting like a wicked brew of maple, tobacco,
berry pie and fine wood shavings. This is smooth, long
and comfortable on the tobacco- and resin-flavored finish. Drink now–2018. The Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
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Walt 2010 La Brisa Pinot Noir (Sonoma
County). Is it just a simple, delicious drinkme-now Pinot? Or is it actually complex and worthy
of pairing with the best foods? It’s both. Front-loaded
with raspberry purée, smoked butter and oak flavors, it
has subtle layers of mushroom and dried pine that lift it
into an ethereal place. Who cares if it will age? It’s dropdead gorgeous now. Char-broiled salmon could be your
best pairing. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Pocai
Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley).
The Pocai Vineyard is a very interesting one, growing
Chenin Blanc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Cabernet Franc, and the wines are always worth
looking into. This Cabernet Franc, at four years of age,
is mellowing, with the tannins turning gentle and the
flavors becoming delicious and dramatic. Particularly
bright in red cherries, it’s a beautiful wine for drinking
over the next year or two. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
92
Cosa Obra 2011 Hummingbird Hill Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast).
This is potent in lime, sweet lemon, Asian pear and
tropical fruit flavors, brightened with zesty acidity and
enriched with notes of mineral and vanilla. Beautiful
to drink, it will pair with everything from Thai food to
risotto. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $24
Enrique Foster 2006 Limited Edition Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). This is cool, earthy and
tight on the nose. Then it opens and blooms, with classy
roasted notes that set the stage for a smooth-rolling palate with bold blackberry, herb and chocolate flavors.
By the time it finishes, complex bitter-chocolate and
toast notes have taken over. This is primed and ready to
drink. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $47
Houdini 2010 Dean Block Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). Tremendous flavors of honey,
pear and orange jam are enriched with an oaky vanilla note. It’s wonderfully creamy and spicy, and while it
seemingly tastes as sweet as a pastry, the finish is dry.
Only 425 cases were produced. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
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Korbin Kameron 2007 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). A beautiful Cabernet, this has all the hallmarks of a fine wine.
It’s dry, rich in tannins and elegant, with long, deep flavors of blackberries, currants and dark chocolate. It’s already throwing some sediment, so give it a careful decant. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $40
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MacPhail 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). This is forward and
sweet in raspberry and cherry jams. However, it’s not a
simple fruit bomb. With a mushroomy, gamy earthiness
and refined tannins, it shows true complexity and structure. Not an ager, but it will be beautiful over the next
few years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Crozes-Hermitage. This full-bodied, creamy Crozes-Hermitage far outpaces expectations for the appellation,
combining cherry-berry fruit with cracked pepper, mocha and licorice. Then it finishes long, anchored by a
marriage of fruit and spice. It’s ready to drink now, but
should evolve positively through at least 2017. Vineyard
Brands. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $36
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Migration 2010 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). With a creamy mouthfeel and
ripe flavors of tangerines, tropical fruits, honey and
sweet oak, this is a flashy effort. It will appeal to fans of
the variety, and rightfully so, delivering a dry complexity
that lifts it way above the average. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
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Pessagno 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard
Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands).
Rich doesn’t begin to describe the layers of flavor and
texture. This wine is massive, with notes of tropical fruit
and apricot, with a slightly botrytized character that
Sleepy Hollow Chardonnays often display. The oak is
lavish and buttery, but perfectly matched to the wine’s
volume. It also has classic Monterey acidity—as pert as
a squeeze of lime. Delicious, full bodied and exotic, it
defines its vineyard and appellation. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $32
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Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Roccato (Toscana). Roccato is a blend of 50% Sangiovese
and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon that’s packed with aromas
of blackberry, leather, tobacco and chocolate. It’s velvety
and rich, with a delicious touch of cherry and cinnamon
on the long finish. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
92
Von Holt 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). There’s lots of
mouthwatering acidity in this bone-dry Pinot Noir, with
an ample supply of ripe fruit in the form of raspberries and cherries. There’s also something wonderfully
earthy, like roasted mushrooms splashed with balsamic
and tamari sauce. The cool 2010 vintage was kind to
Bacigalupi Vineyard, which can produce overripe wines
in hot years. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $39
92
Walt 2010 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). High alcohol gives this Pinot some heat,
but it also lends incredible richness and ripeness to the
flavors, which range from raspberry jam and cherry pie
filling to buttered toast, creamy vanilla and exotic spice.
A delicious and heady offering from Napa Cabernet
specialist Hall winery. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $60
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Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Petit Verdot (St. Helena). This is rich and dramatic in
blackberries and black currants, with an olive note and
a lovely coating of cedar. Dry and tannic, it has plenty of
class and elegance. Hard to see if this is a longterm ager,
but it’s fine now and over the next four years. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $38
91
Duckhorn 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). A
lovely Merlot, this is pure, vibrant and elegant.
It has classic cherry, red-currant and cedar flavors, and
while there’s a sweetness at the core, the finish is thoroughly dry. Wonderful to drink now with steak or lamb.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $52
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Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Ser Gioveto (Toscana). A cheerful super Tuscan blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, this shows a
very elegant and sophisticated side. It is modern, plump
and extracted, but it also delivers fine aromas of cherry,
vanilla, spice and pipe tobacco. Palm Bay International.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
92
White Oak 2010 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is White
Oak’s best Chardonnay in years. The wine benefited
from the chilly vintage, expressing citrus and tropical
fruit flavors while preserving its vital acidity. It shows
real elegance. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $24
Gloria Ferrer 2009 Estate Chardonnay
(Carneros). What this Chardonnay lacks in
immediate fruity richness, it more than makes up for
in austere, complex minerality. The flavors veer towards
lemon and lime, with hints of tropical fruit and the
sweet smokiness of barrel aging. The acidity is vital and
rich. It’s a wine that develops complexity as it warms and
opens up in the glass. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
WineMag.com | 7
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Korbin Kameron 2008 Estate Grown Merlot (Sonoma Valley). Huge, flashy and dramatic, this shows brilliantly ripened fruit and an exquisite texture. Flavor wise, it tastes like pure pie filling
seasoned with baking spices. But there’s nothing sweet
in the finish. Instead, the wine is thoroughly and properly dry, as Merlot should be. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
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MacPhail 2010 Wightman House Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This
explodes with ripe raspberry, strawberry and cherry flavors, while the heat from the alcohol gives it the headiness of a liqueur. It’s definitely not a subtle wine, but
one to enjoy now with grilled tuna, lamb or wild mushroom risotto. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $55
91
Piccini 2007 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana).
A generous blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and
Cabernet, this is round and velvety, delivering impressive aromatic intensity in the form of black cherry, ripe
raspberry, spice, tobacco and dried rosemary. The finish
is soft and long. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Editors’ Choice.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
91
Torres 2008 Mas La Plana Black Label
Cabernet Sauvignon (Penedès). One of
Spain’s most character-packed wines, this vintage of
Mas La Plana deals bacon, berry and earthy aromas in
front of a weighty, fairly tannic palate. Becoming richer
and riper as it unfolds, this is full of prune, plum and
earthy stewed-berry flavors. It gets better and shows
more complexity with air. Drink now–2018. Dreyfus,
Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
90
Forefathers 2008 Lone Tree Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley).
Here’s a Cab that needs some time in the cellar. It’s rich
in blackberries and cherries, with the dried herb earthiness often found in Alexander Valley Cabernets. Give it
five years or so. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
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Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend
Red Blend (Napa County-Sonoma County-San Joaquin County). Made from a bunch of
grape varieties, including Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a really nice wine, especially for the price.
It’s dry, fruity and robust, with rich, earthy flavors of
blackberries and spices. Easy to find, with 22,100 cases
produced. From E&J Gallo. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
90
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Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay-Albariño (Russian River Valley). This is one of the driest wines Marimar
Estate ever has produced—in a good sense. The cool
vintage has made the Chardonnay minerally and sleek,
while Albariño brings its usual lemony crispness. The
result is a versatile, stylishly elegant wine. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
Arnaldo Caprai 2010 Montefalco Rosso. The entire
line-up from Arnaldo Caprai has been
very successful this year. This blend of
Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Merlot delivers a smooth mouthfeel and ripe fruit
flavors, with background tones of black
licorice and moist pipe tobacco. A spot
of crisp acidity appears on the finish. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
90
Il Pollenza 2007 Red (Marche). This blend
of Merlot, Petit Verdot, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Cabernet Franc opens with jammy, almost impenetrable aromas of blackberry, maraschino cherry, pipe tobacco and dark chocolate. “Huge” is the operative word.
Southern Wine and Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $57
90
Kirkland Signature 2010 Cuvée de Nalys
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Full bodied and
plush in texture, with extremely supple tannins alongside flavors of raspberry, plum and clove. The juicy
beam of fresh fruit lingers nicely on the finish. Drink
now–2018. DC Flynt MW Selections. Editors’ Choice.
—J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
90
MacPhail 2010 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). As appealing as a dessert
pastry, this has raspberry and cherry fruit, with roasted almond, sweet vanilla and buttered toast flavors. Not
particularly complex, but it scores high on the delicious
scale. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $49
90
Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Riserva di
Fizzano (Chianti Classico). With its inky
concentration, rich extraction and ripe aromas of blackberry pie and cherry preserves, fine craftsmanship is
evident. Soft veins of spice and chocolate weave elegantly throughout. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
90
Trig Point 2010 Diamond Dust Vineyard
Merlot (Alexander Valley). A fine Merlot,
softly lush and rich in cherries and mocha, wrapped into
firm tannins. An earthy herb note grounds it, saving it
from being simply a fruit bomb. Drink now. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
90
MacPhail 2010 Toulouse Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This is so rich
and saturated you can taste the sunshine in every sip.
It bursts across the palate with bright, jammy raspberry and cherry flavors. It may not have great subtlety or
ageworthiness, but it excels for its sheer deliciousness.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $49
90
A beautiful Cabernet, this is soft, dry and delicious. It
really showcases the Alexander Valley in its classic profile of herb-infused blackberry fruit and gentle tannins.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
88
Freixenet NV Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut
(Cava). This is slightly smoky, toasty and yeasty
up front, with a touch of matchstick to the nose. Rich,
sweet tasting and candied on the palate, it has baking
spice, apple and honeydew flavors. It’s tasty throughout and just elevated enough in mouthfeel to earn a few
complexity points. Freixenet USA. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
88
Principe Pallavicini 2011 Poggio Verde
(Frascati Superiore). A blend of Malvasia,
Greco and Grechetto, this fresh white delivers zesty
acidity and lively notes of bitter almond, white flower,
citrus and crushed mineral. It would pair beautifully
with a heaping plate of spaghetti con le vongole. Vias
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
88
Trapiche 2010 Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Cassis, sugar beet, leather
and mild herbal aromas make this Cabernet appealing
on the nose. It feels slightly syrupy and resiny, but with
its core acidity the palate remains in good shape. Flavors of plum and cassis have a strong vanilla and oak
resin accent, while the finish is tannic, roasted and robust. The Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
WineMag.com | 9
SPIRITS
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Freakshow 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Lodi). Michael David’s new Cabernet Sauvignon brand has the winery’s signature toasted oak and
coconut-kissed tannins. But it’s interestingly tamed,
bearing bursts of black cherry and blackberry that
effortlessly hit your palate in between quiet gusts of
vanilla spice. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
Patrón XO Café Dark
Cocoa (Mexico; The
Patron Spirits Company, Las
Vegas, NV). This addictive newcomer from Tequila maker Patron
combines coffee, chocolate and silver Tequila. It looks and smells like
a dead ringer for your morning
espresso. But on the palate, sweet,
almost nutty agave notes emerge,
fading into a creamy, caramel milk-chocolate profile,
with just a dusting of espresso on the finish. This liqueur
lends itself to mixing with coffee or crafting espresso
martini cocktails, yet it’s polished enough to sip straight
up over ice.
abv: 30%
Price: $25
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87
Il Pollenza 2011 Brianello (Marche). Pale
gold in color, this pretty blend of Sauvignon
Blanc and Trebbiano shows mineral notes and aromas
of hay, light spice and stone fruit. Southern Wine and
Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
Schwartzhog Kräuter Liqueur (Germany; The Other Wine & Spirits, Miami, FL).
Look for a deep brick-red color and
pleasing orange and dried-fruit scents.
Light and mouthwatering, finishing
with an herbal lilt. Nice postprandial
sipper.
abv: 36.7%
Price: $15
SPIRITS
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Sorel Liqueur (USA; Jack
from Brooklyn, Brooklyn,
NY). This new spirit based on a traditional Caribbean recipe, features a
deep plum color thanks to macerated
hibiscus and a spicy clove aroma that
seems to leap out of the glass. Although
it can be used to add pretty color to gin
or vodka cocktails, or to spice up a
warm toddy, it’s addictively sippable
straight up, with a mild alcohol level
that won’t leave you reeling.
abv: 15%
Price: $28
89
Bottega Gianduia (Italy;
Palm Bay International,
Port Washington, NY). The innocent-looking light brown hue evokes
chocolate milk. But the aroma warns of
decadence, with a luscious candy-bar
aroma, nuts and rich milk chocolate. In
the mouth, it melts into a thick and velvety feel, with a boozy, milky finish. It’s
like sipping liquified chocolate laced
with hazelnut liqueur.
abv: 17%
Price: $25
SPIRITS
95
Killepitsch (Germany; Vision Wine & Spirits, Secaucus, NJ). The special-edition bottle is
modern and trippy, purple with pink lettering and a cartoony Keith Haringesque design. But the recipe for this traditional herbal liqueur dates back to the
mid 1800s—“a taste of old Dusseldorf.”
Old or new, it’s complex and delicious,
with a Cognac-like dried-fruit and spice
base—raisins, dates, cherries, figs, cinnamon, sarsaparilla and black pepper all
can be detected. Would make a dynamite digestif, especially paired with a
fruity dessert.
abv: 42%
Price: $25
91
Bottega Limoncino (Italy;
Port Washington, NY). Made with
Sicilian lemons and grappa, this “limoncino” has a lingering, bright lemoncandy flavor cut by a welcome fillip of
brisk alcohol, which softens the sweetness, and a hint of lemongrass. Although the brand recommends using
the spirit for lemon drop cocktails, it
would be equally at home in a drink
with gin or infused with botanicals like
rosemary.
abv: 30%
Price: $24
89
Pisa Liqueur (Italy; Vision
Wine & Spirits, Secaucus,
NJ). The marzipan aroma is huge,
wafting off the glass when it is still an
arm’s length away. The big, stickysweet almond and hazelnut flavor is
overwhelming at first, but pulls back
quickly, leaving just a delicate whisper
of nuts and orange on the finish. Beyond the glass, this would be a great
addition to baked goods or spooned
over fruit or ice cream.
abv: 24%
Price: $25
SPIRITS
BEST BUYS
BEST BUYS
88
Bottega Sambuca (Italy;
Port Washington, NY). Made from
the essential oils from star-anise seeds,
this clear and bright digestif smells and
tastes like Good & Plenty licorice candies. Viscous and tongue coating. Stir
into coffee or sip straight up, well
chilled.
abv: 40%
Price: $24
BEER
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89
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Aveleda 2010 Follies Fonte Nossa Senhora da Vandoma Touriga NacionalCabernet Sauvignon (Beiras). Concentrated and
powerful, this is a rich and intense black-fruited wine.
Notes of spice, herb and dark chocolate mingle with
the flavor of black plum juice and firm, dry tannins. The
result is a wine that needs several more years to age.
FJN Fine Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $12
abv: 13.5%
Aveleda 2011 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho
Verde). From Aveleda’s home estate, this is a
lively wine with crisp fruit. Bone dry, the palate shows
a more serious, intensely citric element, showing bright
acidity on the finish. FJN Fine Wines LLC. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $9
89
Blue Moon Vintage Blonde Ale Reserve
Collection 2011 (American Blonde Ale;
Blue Moon Brewing Company, CO). This vinous
beer brewed with Chardonnay grape juice is a nice
crossover beer for wine lovers. It pours a clear, light
gold color with a frothy but fleeting white head, and
shows good carbonation. The bouquet is fruit forward,
brimming with notes of lemon and ripe white grapes.
Earthy spice and toasted grain accents in the background increase in intensity on the palate alongside ripe
notes of peach and apple. The finish is clean, with just a
hint of honeyed sweetness on the back.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $10/750 ml
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Alicante
Bouschet (Lisboa). This is deeply colored
and rich, showing both the juicy fruit character of Alicante Bouschet and a more serious, concentrated element. It’s solid and densely tannic, with wood flavors
layered on its black plum fruit. This is worth aging for
another two years. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Bourgeois Family 2009 Elicio GrenacheMerlot (Vin de Pays de la Méditerranée).
It’s an unusual blend, but it works, creating a round,
supple wine for immediate enjoyment. Hints of orange peel, coriander and green olive bring complexity
to notes of plum and cherry, while the finish turns dark
and espresso-like. Bourgeois Family Selections. Best
Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
BEST BUYS
90
92
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Touriga Nacional (Lisboa). The combination of blackberry fruit and firm, dark tannins has created a complex,
impressive wine. This has plenty of fruit, but the main
components at this stage are its weight and structure.
It has considerable aging potential; keep for 3–4 years.
Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
Aveleda 2010 Follies Casa da Aguieira
Touriga Nacional (Beiras). Wood laden, this
is a spice- and fruit-flavored wine. It’s complex, dense
and packed with dusty tannins. Still young, although already finely balanced, its structure is powerful and the
wine is dark, full and rich. Age for 2–3 years. FJN Fine
Wines LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
88
Freixenet NV Cordon Rosado (Cava). This
is always a really good buy among rosé sparklers and a personal favorite in the Best Buy category.
It opens with red fruit, vanilla and yeasty aromas, but
it’s racy, crisp and refined in the mouth, with nectarine, peach and controlled citrus flavors. It’s dry, spicy
and fairly smooth on the finish. Freixenet USA. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
WineMag.com | 11
BEST BUYS
88
Mas Fi NV Brut (Cava). Clean, stylish and
easy to like, this has apple and green herb aromas. It shows a good weight and mouthfeel, with papaya, thyme and baked apple flavors. Medium long
and smooth on the finish, this is a commendable valuepriced bubbly. Winesellers Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $11
abv: 11.5%
BEST BUYS
87
Marqués de Cáceres 2011 White (Rioja).
Cheers to one of Rioja’s most basic yet consistent white wines. Minerally and crystalline on the nose,
with dusty apple, melon and stony aromas, this Viura is
fresh, dry and average in weight. It tastes of papaya and
apple, finishing dry and clean. Vineyard Brands. Best
Buy. —M.S.
Price: $9
abv: 12.5%
88
Segura Viudas NV Brut Reserva (Cava).
This is as crisp and dry as a whispy reed, with a
mild grassy note on the nose. It feels fresh and focused,
with lime, peach and apple flavors. Fruity, fresh and
easy to like from start to finish, this is what a Best Buy
should be. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
BEST BUYS
86
McManis 2011 Chardonnay (River Junction). Using grapes sourced from a cool subappellation of the Lodi area, this is a fine, ripe wine that
finishes sweetly on a note of vanilla. Its acidity is in balance, making this a wine that will easily please a crowd.
Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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86
Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Merlot (California). If this Merlot had greater flavor intensity,
it would be spectacular. It’s a very nice photocopy of a
great Merlot, meaning that the berry and spice fruit is
soft in focus but pleasurable. A great value—dry and
classy in its own way. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
86
85
El Coto 2011 White (Rioja). This is grassy
and pungent up front, with citrus, nectarine and
apple aromas. It feels crisp and tangy, with chalky grip
and flavors of citrus and green apple. Snappy and long
on the finish, this is a Sauvignon Blanc-styled Viura.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
88
Wente 2010 Riverbank Riesling (Arroyo
Seco). Off-dry to sweet, this is firmed up with
crisp acidity. The citrus, honeysuckle and vanilla flavors are easy to like, with a flowery, sweet finish. This
delightful Riesling calls to mind gardens on summer
evenings. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
L. Tramier et Fils NV Bourricot Rosé (Vin
de France). Fragrant and fruity, this is an attractive, full rosé. It has just the right amount of red currant acidity to go with the ripe strawberry note. Ready
to drink. Luxe Vintages. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
Cable Car 2010 Chardonnay (Lodi). An
easygoing, crisp and well-priced Chardonnay,
this has swirls of smooth apple and pear. Best Buy.
—V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
BEST BUYS
BEST BUYS
85
House Band NV Chardonnay (California). Sold in individual 375-ml pouches or 4-packs,
this is a dry, clean wine with lots of
acidity that brightens the creamy apricot, orange and peach flavors. Best
Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $5/375 ml
87
Sogevinus 2011 Curva (Douro). This is an
apple-crisp wine that’s laced with a zing of lemon zest. Taut and nervy, this is straight as an arrow in
terms of its fresh acidity. It’s lively, bright and ready to
drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
86
Quinta do Portal 2011 Portal Colheita
Branco (Douro). Spicy and perfumed, this
has a rich yellow-fruit flavor that’s contrasted with a
crisp pink-grapefruit edge. It’s rounded and smooth,
with a taut, herbal burst on the finish. M Imports, LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
84
J. Garcia Carrion 2009 Antaño Tempranillo (Rioja). This is snappy all the way, if a
touch raw and citric on the palate. Freshness is a virtue
on this affordable Rioja, while red plum, raspberry and
milk chocolate notes carry the flavor profile. Drink now.
CIV/USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $6
85
Barros 2011 White (Douro). Very aromatic, this has flavors of lychee and lemon. It has a
spicy feel to it, giving it a soft, rounded texture. Ready to
drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
LISBOA WHITES
CORRECTIONS
On page 24 of the August issue, we incorrectly stated
that Dana Farner was a master sommelier. Farner has
only passed the tasting portion of the exam.
85
Piccini 2011 Chianti. Fresh and simple, this
iconic Chianti from Piccini boils the Tuscan red
wine experience down to its easiest and most genuine
state. This is a crisp, lean wine with a ruby color and
bright berry aromas. Aveniù Brands, Inc. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
On page 92 of the August issue, we incorrectly listed
Erin Smith as sommelier of Restaurant August. Erin
White is the sommelier.
On page 20 of the September issue, we incorrectly attributed a quote to Chef Eiji Ichimura. It should have
referenced Chef Isao Yamada.
On page 50 of the September isuse, we incorrectly
identified Roman Coppola as Philippe Bascaules.
NEXT MONTH
HERE’S WHAT’S COMING UP IN WINE
ENTHUSIAST'S NOVEMBER MAGAZINE:
Top 100 Best Buys of 2012
Of the thousands of wines tasted this year, the editors of
Wine Enthusiast reveal their picks of the top Best Buys.
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Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Pinot Noir (Mendoza). Earthy and warm on the nose, this has
compost and leafy raspberry aromas. It shows good feel
and balance, with light plum, cherry and citrus-infused
tea flavors. The finish is good and solid, concluding with
a tobacco note. The Wine Group. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
A Driving Tour of Piedmont
With its beautiful scenery, fabulous wines and the
region’s famous white truffles, who wouldn’t want to
take a road trip through this gourmand’s paradise?
Pairing Cheese & Wine
When the two complex worlds of cheese and wine
collide, it’s enough to exasperate any gourmet No
longer, thanks to this easy pairing guide.
90
DFJ Vinhos 2011 DFJ White (Lisboa). Round and smooth, this has a weighty,
full-bodied structure, with the Alvarinho adding a more
crisp character. Pear and melon fruits are balanced by
citrusy acidity. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
88
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Grand’Arte Alvarinho
(Lisboa). For an Alvarinho this is surprisingly
herbaceous, bearing a green cut-grass aroma and lemon
and pink grapefruit flavors. As the wine fills out over
the next year, it will probably show more of the grape’s
creamed apple and pear flavors. Dionysos Imports Inc.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
88
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Grand’Arte Arinto (Lisboa). Swathes of ripe fruit surface on this wine,
with lime and peach flavors followed by a more minerally texture. It’s a wine to drink now or age over the next
year. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
87
Companhia das Quintas 2011 Pancas
Branco (Lisboa). This is a piercingly fresh
wine from vines close to the Atlantic Ocean. The citrusy
acidity is balanced by riper yellow fruit and pineapple.
Age for a few months, but it can also be consumed now.
Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
86
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Paxis Branco Arinto
(Lisboa). Smooth and oily in texture, this is
round and full of pear juice flavor. There is just a touch
of green legume, adding piquancy to this ripe wine.
Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $8
85
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Casa do Lago Branco
(Lisboa). This is rich and smooth, with rounded and ripe fruit. Red apple, banana and lime flavors
work together to yield a wine that’s ready to drink. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
WineMag.com | 13
85
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Coreto Branco (Lisboa).
This is an attractively balanced apple- and pearflavored wine. It is crisp, fruity and nicely creamy, with
some bright acidity on the finish Drink now or age for a
year. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $6
85
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Portada Winemaker’s
Selection White (Lisboa). This has soft, ripe
fruit, with notes of lime and orange zest fitting easily
with the ripe peach and melon flavors. This is warm,
rounded and ready to drink. LGL Imports LLC. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $7
84
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Point West (Lisboa). A
rounded wine, this gives pleasure with its pear
and ripe apple flavors. Lightly touched with acidity, this
has a soft finish. Dionysos Imports Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
84
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Segada Branco (Lisboa). This is fruity, with pear and baked apple flavors that lend a rich, spicy character. It has some
weight along with an attractive touch of acidity. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $8
84
Quinta do Gradil NV Filigrana (Lisboa). A
fresh prickle gives this crisp, Vinho Verde lookalike its lively lift. Semi-sweet and fragrant, this has
acidity and flavors of green apple and citrus. Grape Moments. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $NA
83
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Storks Landing White
(Lisboa). Very soft and easy going, this has
rounded peach and apple flavors. The acidity is light,
hinting at citrus. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $8
VINHO VERDE
90
Adega de Monção 2010 Deu la Deu Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Monção is the home
of Portuguese Alvarinho. Ripe and opulent, this is full
of yellow fruit, tangy citrus and intense acidity. After an
extra year of aging, this finely balanced and impressive
wine is ready to drink. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Nostalgia Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). This is a rich, fullbodied and impressive wine, with intense and complex
flavors of apple and green fruit. The acidity meshes with
the ripe fruit. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
89
Adega de Monção 2011 Muralhas de
Monção (Vinho Verde). With a high proportion of Alvarinho in the blend, this is round, with a
creamed apple flavor. It is ripe, full and delicious now.
Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
89
Aveleda 2011 Quinta da Aveleda (Vinho
Verde). For full review see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $9
lemon zest flavor and a bright prickle on the palate. It’s
crisp, fresh and ready to drink. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $NA
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Wines & Winemakers 2011 Toucas (Vinho Verde). This is very aromatic, with lively acidity, a soft and creamy texture, and a rounded
yellow-fruit flavor that’s balanced by a citrus note. It is
elegant, rich and worth aging for another year. Iberia
Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $19
Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Avesso (Vinho
Verde). Avesso, a rare varietal in the Vinho
Verde region, has produced a smooth and ripe wine. It
has flavors of green olive, pear and a tight citrus character. There’s fine depth of flavor on this delicious wine.
P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $16
88
Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Floral and aromatic, this has a hint
of prickle to go with the citrus, green apple and white
peach flavors. There is an attractive mineral character—
the wine dancing and fragrant. P.R. Grisley Company.
—R.V.
Price: $16
abv: 12.5%
87
Vera 2011 Alvarinho (Vinho Verde). Crisp
and green, this has a ripe, rounded apple flavor
that lends the wine richness. There is a yeasty character to go with the fruitiness, while the refreshing acidity lasts through the finish. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
86
Adega de Monção 2011 Fuzelo (Vinho
Verde). Lightly smooth and crisp, this is dominated by a citrus flavor and bright acidity. It’s a typical,
easy-drinking wine that’s ready to consume now. Aidil
Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
86
Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Loureiro (Vinho
Verde). This manages to be rounded and crisp
at the same time, giving an intense citrus flavor and a
soft texture, with just a touch of honey on the finish. P.R.
Grisley Company. —R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 11.5%
86
Vera 2011 Vinho Verde. This is delightful
and lightly sweet, bubbling in the mouth with
notes of citrus, mandarin orange and some richer peach
and white fruit flavors. The acidity gives the wine a lively
lift. Screwcap. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
85
Aveleda 2011 Aveleda (Vinho Verde).
There is a healthy pop as you open this lightly sparkling, just off-dry Vinho Verde. It has a citrusy
lemon-sherbet tang of acidity, combining with a light
dancing touch. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $NA
85
Caves Aliança 2011 Aliança (Vinho
Verde). Lightly sweet, this is freshened with a
Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Grande Escolha
(Vinho Verde). This is a pleasant, fruity Vinho
Verde with the right fresh lemon flavor. There is a light
prickle to add to the crisp character. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Branco (Vinho Verde). Light and crisp, this offers a subtle
prickle on the palate. The lively apple and grapefruit flavors are right up front along with a light sweetness. FJN
Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $NA
84
Quinta do Portal 2011 Trevo (Vinho
Verde). This is a lively, off-dry wine with intense acidity to accompany its crisp apple and citrus flavors. Very fruity, it’s ready to drink now. Screwcap. M
Imports, LLC. —R.V.
Price: $9
abv: 10.5%
84
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Clemens
Reserva (Vinho Verde). Crisp and herbaceous, this is a green-fruited wine that’s light on the palate, offering delightful refreshing acidity. This is very
fruity and ready to drink. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
84
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Salsus (Vinho Verde). The light prickle adds to the natural freshness of this lemon-sherbet-flavored wine. Very
crisp and light in the mouth, this dances on the palate
with just a touch of sweetness. Ararat Import/Export
Co. LLC. —R.V.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $NA
OTHER WHITE WINES
91
Companhia das Quintas 2010 Morgado
de Santa Catherina Reserva (Bucelas).
Wood-aged, this is a ripe-textured wine that has rich
flavors of yellow and white fruits and toast. It has concentrated, intense fruit that bursts in the mouth. Delicious and impressive, this could be aged for another two
years. Importo LLC. —R.V.
Price: $25
abv: 13.5%
90
Aveleda 2011 Follies Janela Manuelina
(Minho). This blend of Alvarinho and Loureiro
is both herbaceous and ripe. The tang of the texture
manages to bring out the grapefruit flavor while allowing space for the underlying white peach note. The finish is rich, and the wine will age for another year. FJN
Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
89
Caves Aliança 2011 Quinta da Garrida
Reserva Branco (Dão). Rich and ripe, this
has pear, peach and quince fruits that are rounded out
by wood aging. It has a floral character that balances
the richness. It will age for another two years. Tri-Vin
Imports. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
88
Companhia das Quintas 2011 Prova Régia Premium Arinto (Bucelas). Delicious,
rich and fruity, this is full of peach and citrus fruits that
add lift to the wine’s ripeness. It’s a great apéritif and
would also pair well with seafood. Importo LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
87
Aveleda 2011 Alvarinho (Minho). Bringing
out the herbaceous side of Alvarinho, this is a
freshly crisp wine. It has grapefruit and green apple flavors, with the acidity brightening the texture on the finish. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
86
Falua 2011 Conde de Vimioso Colheita Seleccionada (Tejo). This is soft, more
creamy than crisp, with an attractive floral character
that details the soft pear flavor. Not for aging, so drink
this over the next year. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
86
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Samora Branco (Tejo). Attractive and herbaceous, this has
an apple flavor that’s laced with a citrus note. Fresh and
crisp, it’s fruity, forward and can be consumed now.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
85
Caves Aliança 2011 Galeria Bical (Bairrada). Soft and gentle, this has pear and ripe
apple flavors, with a light touch of creamy acidity. It’s a
food-friendly wine—round and ready to drink. Tri-Vin
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
84
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Dona Helena
Branco (Setubal). Light and fragrant, this has
pear and lemon flavors. It’s ripe, soft and ready to drink.
Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
SPARKLING WINE
85
Aveleda NV Casal Garcia (Vinho
Espumante). A medium-sweet sparkling
wine, this bursts with a ripe apple flavor on the palate. The wine is crisp, deliciously clean and refreshing.
Think of it like Moscato. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
ROSÉS
85
Adega de Monção 2011 Muralhas de
Monção Rosé (Vinho Verde). There is a
light prickle to this freshly crisp and dry rosé. It bursts
with raspberry and red currant flavors, tangy acidity and
a lively finish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
85
Churchill’s 2011 Rosé (Douro). Made from
Touriga Nacional, this is a deliciously light, crisp
and clean strawberry-flavored wine. It has lively acidity
and a real summer feel. Screwcap. Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
85
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Casa do Lago Rosé
(Lisboa). Smooth and rounded, this is a foodfriendly rosé. It has a ripe strawberry flavor, with a touch
of lime juice and a soft, full finish. Just a touch of tannin gives extra character. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best
Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $8
85
Selection Rosé (Lisboa). Soft and ripe, a
flavor of crushed strawberries leads this wine in a fruity
direction. It has notes of vanilla and spice, with attractive balancing acidity. This is a food-friendly rosé. LGL
Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $7
85
Falua 2011 Conde de Vimioso Colheita Seleccionada Rosé (Tejo). Bright and
fruity, with a tannic edge, this is a blend of Touriga Nacional and Syrah. This is food friendly, with a rich redfruit flavor that’s cut with a caramel note and strawberry
acidity. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
Price: $9
abv: 13%
85
Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Padeiro Rosé
(Vinho Verde). Very fruity and smooth,
this has a ripe strawberry flavor and balancing acidity. It shows some richness while remaining crisp and
fragrant. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
touches of sweet strawberry and vanilla to go with the
orange zest acidity. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $8
84
Parras Vinhos NV Filigrana Rosé (Lisboa). With an attractive fresh prickle on the
palate, this is a crisp wine with a red fruit flavor, acidity
and a soft, sweet finish. Grape Moments. —R.V.
abv: 10%
Price: $NA
84
Quinta de Gomariz 2011 Espadeiro Rosé
(Vinho Verde). This is a fresh and fragrant
rosé from the Vinho Verde region. It has light acidity
and a red fruit flavor. The lightest prickle gives just that
extra lift. P.R. Grisley Company. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
84
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Azul Portugal
Rosé (Setubal). Ripe and fruity, this bears a
red berry flavor and a dry structure. It has weight, richness and a smooth finish. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC.
—R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
84
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Samora Rosé
(Tejo). This is a floral, aromatic and dry rosé,
full of red currant fruit and refreshing acidity. It’s a great
apéritif wine. Amara Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
85
Quinta do Portal 2011 Colheita Rosé
(Douro). This is rich and dry yet also fruity.
Perfumed in character, it is full, soft and smooth, allowing the acidity a place on the finish. M Imports, LLC.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
83
85
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ALENTEJANO REDS
Vera 2011 Rosé (Vinho Verde). This is a
seemingly weet rosé, with a good balance between its strawberry fruit and acidity. The wine is slightly sparkling and crisp, making it a delicious apéritif.
Screwcap. Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Rosé (Vinho
Verde). Crisp and intensely acidic, this has a
touch of tannin that adds structure. It has red apple
fruit, giving roundness and some sweetness on the finish. Screwcap, FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 10.5%
84
Caves Aliança 2011 Vista Rosé (Terras
da Beira). Ripe and soft, this is made from
Tinta Roriz. It is rich and full bodied, with its rounded
strawberry fruit leaving just enough room on the palate
for crispness. Screwcap. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
84
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Monte Alentejano Rosé
(Alentejano). Smooth, rounded and dry, this
has plum and strawberry flavors. Full in the mouth and
touched by spice, this is a rosé for food. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
84
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Pink Elephant Rosé
(Lisboa). Fruity and off-dry, this has light
DFJ Vinhos 2011 Coreto Rosé (Lisboa).
This is a rounded, full-bodied rosé that also has
a herbal element. It has a wild strawberry flavor, with
light acidity and sweetness. Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $6
Wines & Winemakers 2011 Dona Helena
Rosé (Setubal). Soft, with strawberry flavors
and only light acidity, this has a caramel burst that surfaces on the finish. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
92
Companhia das Quintas 2009 Herdade
da Farizoa Grand Escolha (Alentejano).
A dark-colored, wood-aged wine, this is serious and
powerful. It has tannic weight along with a blackberry
flavor, and a smooth tar and herb layer that’s all balanced by the acidity. The wood still needs another year
to fully integrate; age for another 2–3 years. Importo
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $55
92
Monte Seis Reis 2007 Reserva (Alentejano). The smooth oak aging is a major element
in the success of this elegant wine. While it has rich, polished black fruits and a strong tannic core, it also has a
licorice character. It is now maturing, ready to drink as
a serious, complex wine. Mediterranean Specialty Products. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
91
Adega Mayor 2008 Pai Chão Garrafeira
(Alentejano). The top red from Adega Mayor,
this is serious and impressive. Its firm, dry and dusty
WineMag.com | 15
tannins are balanced by an intense blackberry flavor and
contrasted with licorice and coffee notes. As it ages, it
will become more intense and elegant. Aidil Wines &
Liquor Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
91
Companhia das Quintas 2009 Herdade
da Farizoa Reserva (Alentejano). Densely
tannic, this is also full of sweet berry fruits. Powerful
and superripe, its fruit is beginning to integrate into the
big, smoky, chocolaty structure. The finish shows both
toast and juicy fruit notes. Keep for 3–4 years. Importo
LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
90
Herdade Grande 2008 Reserva (Alentejano). Solid and powerful, this has its tannins
wound around flavors of dark plum skin and blackberry.
It’s concentrated and chunky, with bitter chocolate and
spice notes added to the mix. Age for 2–3 years. Grape
Moments. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
89
Herdade das Servas 2008 Touriga Nacional (Alentejano). While the aromas are
earthy, with a farmyard character, the finely textured
palate is fruitier. The tannins give a firm, structured
base for the red currant flavor. Solid and rich, this is
now maturing, but it retains its youthful acidity. Simões
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
88
Adega Mayor 2010 Monte Mayor (Alentejano). The very soft, juicy red fruit characterizes this easy, ripe wine. It has a light tannic core, with its
dryness kept well in check by the exuberant, juicy fruit.
Young and fruity, it is ready for aging over the next two
years. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
88
Monte Seis Reis 2009 Private Selection
(Alentejano). This is very ripe, rounded and
rich, with its black fruit dominating the tarry, tannic
character. Chocolate and mint notes surface from the
wood aging. With its dark toast element, this could age
another two years. Mediterranean Specialty Products.
—R.V.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
88
Monte Seis Reis 2008 Syrah (Alentejano). This is big and powerful, soft and rounded,
with the tannins buried in the foward black-fruit flavor.
It’s almost too dense for its own good, a blockbuster that
has ripe fruit, but misses out on structure. Mediterranean Specialty Products. —R.V.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
87
Companhia das Quintas 2010 Farizoa
(Alentejano). Ripe and soft, this has notes
of plum skins, black cherries, dark chocolate and toast
from the wood aging. It’s structured, powerful and
worth aging for 2–3 years, although its richness makes
it drinkable now. Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $12
abv: 14%
87
Herdade Grande 2009 15 Vendimias Colheita Seleccionada (Alentejano). Balanced
and structured, this has red fruit flavors, firm tannins
and a core of concentrated dryness. It is ready to drink,
although it could age for another year. Grape Moments.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
86
Herdade dos Machedos 2010 Toutalga
(Alentejano). This is a ripe-fruited wine, rich
with dried fruits, sweet tannins and a soft texture. With
its weight and juicy character, this is ready to drink. Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $4
86
89
Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta da Terrugem
(Alentejo). Deep, rich and softly ripe, this is
a powerful, generous wine. Its tannins are cushioned
within the ripe blackberry and milk chocolate flavors.
Ready to drink now. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
Herdade dos Machedos 2010 Santos
Jorge (Alentejo). Big, bold and tannic, this
has a solid structure that’s balanced by ripe fruit. It is
full bodied, rich in damson and plum flavors, with a
firm, dusty texture. Drink now, but this can also age over
the next 1–2 years. Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $7
BAIRRADA REDS
92
Caves Aliança 2007 Quinta das Baceladas (Bairrada). Earthy aromas are a hallmark
of the Baga grape, a component of this full-bodied, tannic blend. With weight and richness, a mint note and
new wood flavors, it is a serious wine that still should
develop over three years. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
91
Ataide da Costa Martins Seredo 2009
Ataide Seredo Reserva (Bairrada). Big,
rich and ripe, this is packed with intense black fruits
and dark tannins, with the solid structure yielding a
dense core. Its fruit is balanced by acidity, giving the
wine essential lift. Age for 4–5 years. Obrigado Vinhos
Portugal. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
88
Ataide da Costa Martins Seredo 2010
Ataide Seredo (Bairrada). With Baga in the
blend, this is a firm, ripe and tannic wine. It has a rich,
tarry character, with dark plum and blueberry fruits.
With its solid structure, this should age over 2–3 years.
Obrigado Vinhos Portugal. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Adega Mayor 2007 Reserva do Comendador (Alentejano). This is ripe, almost too
ripe, with its broad red fruits and soft tannins. The texture is smooth, with a burst of acidity. It’s ready to drink
now. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
Monte Seis Reis 2010 Boa Memória Red
(Alentejano). This is spicy, with a dry, dusty
character that’s laid over the blackberry fruit. It is full
on the palate, almost sweet in character, showing a soft,
warm finish. Mediterranean Specialty Products. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
84
Herdade dos Machedos 2009 Morgado
da Canita (Alentejano). This feels very ripe,
perhaps overripe, with its seemingly sweet flavor of
black fruit juice and its soft structure. It’s appealing and
does have some tannins, but it is not for aging. Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $5
abv: 14%
93
ALENTEJO REDS
91
Herdade das Servas 2010 Monte das
Servas (Alentejano). Very fruity, this is full
of red fruits, soft tannins and juicy acidity. The wine is
soft, forward and immediately appealing due to its acidity and aromatic finish. Simões Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
Herdade Grande 2010 Red (Alentejano).
Full bodied and rich, this has a well-balanced
structure, with a dry, tannic core. It’s powerful and
packed with a juicy black-fruit flavor. This can be aged
for at least two years. Grape Moments. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
88
José Maria da Fonseca 2010 José de
Sousa (Alentejano). This is an earthy wine
that packs ripe fruit with structure and acidity. There is
a juicy character from the red berry flavor that is given
shape by the underlying tannins. Palm Bay International. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
92
Caves Aliança 2008 T Quinta da Terrugem (Alentejo). Firm and structured, this is
a densely rich wine for aging. Firm tannins dominate its
ripe black fruit, lending notes of spice, licorice and toast
from the wood. It needs several years of aging to round
out—give it four years at least. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar
Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
BEIRA INTERIOR REDS
Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta do
Cardo Grande Escolha (Beira Interior).
An impressive, serious wine that’s only produced in top
vintages. It’s elegant and complex, a powerful wine with
its dark tannins, licorice and black plum flavors. Concentrated and intense, it’s worth aging for at least four
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
Cardo Reserva Touriga Nacional (Beira
Interior). From its almost black color, it’s obvious this
is a powerful wine. The wood aging is initially apparent, with a mint flavor laid over firm, dry tannins. Then
comes the ripe berry flavor and acidity. The integrated
combination is dark, powerful and ready to age over 3–4
years. Importo LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $30
91
Cardo Selecção do Enólogo (Beira Interi-
or). This is an austere wine that blossoms slowly. Using
grapes sourced from a vineyard at an elevation of 2,000
feet, this has a wild herb character along with dark black
fruits and tannins that need several years to age. Give
this very ageworthy effort at least four years. Imports
Inc. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
90
Cardo (Beira Interior). A firmly tannic wine,
this has a dark structure and black fruits. It has a strong
minerally character to go with its fruit and acidity. With
its weight and tannins, it has the potential to age for over
several years. Importo LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
BEIRAS REDS
93
Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2009 Vinhas
Velhas de Santa Maria (Beiras). Initial new
wood flavors show the youth of this complex wine. Then
it fills out in the mouth with an explosive blackberry flavor and dense fruit tannins. With its power and flavor
intensity, it has firm potential to age over at least five
years. Winebow. —R.V.
Price: $70
abv: 14%
92
Quinta de Foz de Arouce 2009 Red (Beiras). Dark, with dusty tannins and a solid, firm
structure, this has a dense character. The black plum
fruit and intense underlying acidity yield a powerful
wine that will age over several years. Winebow. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
91
Aveleda 2010 Follies Fonte Nossa Senhora da Vandoma Touriga NacionalCabernet Sauvignon (Beiras). For full review see
page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
90
Aveleda 2010 Follies Casa da Aguieira
Touriga Nacional (Beiras). For full review
see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
90
Caves Aliança 2009 Vista Reserva Touriga Nacional (Beiras). Wood aged, this is still
dominated by its toast character, but shows potential in
its rich black fruits and powerful tannins. Complex and
ageworthy, give it at least four years. Tri-Vin Imports.
—R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
84
Caves Aliança 2009 Vista Tinta Roriz
(Beiras). Lightweight, with smooth red fruit
and acidity, this is soft and round. The berry fruit neatly
merges with the gentle tannins. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
DÃO REDS
91
Caves Aliança 2008 Quinta da Garrida
Reserva (Dão). Full bodied and rich, this has
a juicy core followed by firm, minerally tannins and intense acidity. Wood aging adds complexity to this im-
pressive, ageworthy effort. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
feel; age it for four years. Importo LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
90
92
Sogrape 2009 Callabriga (Dão). A complex, full-bodied wine, structured with the
Dão’s typical taut minerality. It has richness hidden
behind the firm tannins and dense texture. This is still
young and will develop over the next 3–4 years. Evaton,
Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
88
Caves Aliança 2009 Aliança Reserva
(Dão). This is a typical mineral-driven Dão
wine, with structure and complex, dry and firm fruits.
Licorice and wood notes also add to the mix. This needs
at least three years of aging. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
82
Vidigal 2010 Red (Dão). Lean and austere,
this brings out the mineral character of the Dão
region without expressing the richer fruit side. It has
tannins, juicy acidity and a tight, severe finish. Suprex
International. —R.V.
Price: $10
abv: 12.5%
DOURO REDS
93
Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta da
Fronteira Grande Escolha (Douro). A vineyard selection is used to make this powerful, super ripe
wine. With its opulent flavors, it is as densely packed
with fruit as it is with tannins. Balanced and gorgeous,
this is ready to drink now, yet it will age over several
abv: 15%
Price: $60
93
Duorum 2009 Reserva Old Vines (Douro). This is powerfully impressive, with its firm
structure giving great depth to the rich black-cherry and
plum fruits. Dense and tannic, it needs to age for at least
four years. Winebow. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
93
Quinta do Portal 2009 Grande Reserva (Douro). Always a powerful wine, this has
the added benefit of being produced from a fine vintage, yielding a hugely dense and concentrated bottling.
Power comes from the ripe blackberry and black currant fruit and from the dark, firm tannins. Age this wine
at least five years. M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
Price: $39
abv: 14%
93
Quinta do Portal 2009 Reserva (Douro).
Still very youthful, this concentrated wine has
structure, deep black-fruit flavors and intense acidity.
Its wood aging offers an extra spice note and a polished
surface. Underneath, the wine is dense, needing aging.
Give it 2–4 years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
92
Fronteira Reserva (Douro). Powerful and
ripe, this is loaded with dark black fruit, spice from
wood aging, licorice and bitter chocolate flavors. It’s impressively rich, concentrated and dark in both color and
Fronteira Selecção do Enólogo (Douro).
Huge and rich, this offers ripe black fruits and a concentrated structure. It’s packed with a seemingly sweet
blackberry flavor that serves as a counterpoint to the
firm texture. With both density and a dark edge, this will
age over several years. Importo LLC. Editors’ Choice.
—R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
92
Wines & Winemakers 2009 Andreza
Grande Reserva (Douro). New-wood dominates this wine, with a very toasty quality, a seemingly
sweet vanilla flavor and a touch of pepper from the alcohol. The black fruits are still burried under the wood
character, although the fruits’ weight suggests they will
broaden out with time. Give this powerful effort at
least four years. Amara Wines LLC. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
91
Duorum 2010 Colheita (Douro). Richly
structured and ripe, this has black tannins laced
with dark plum fruit. Its tannins promise aging while its
fruit already offers a rounded taste. Keep for 3–4 years.
Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
91
Quinta do Portal 2009 Touriga Franca
(Douro). An impressive single varietal wine,
this shows notes of spice, black currant and wood, along
with dark tannins and a firm, dry core. With its acidity
and tannins, this will likely age over several years. M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
91
Sogrape 2009 Callabriga (Douro). Very
structured and firm, this has dense tannins
overlaying the black currant fruit. Its dry, solid texture
dominates, yielding an impressive wine that has fine
juicy fruit now and will age well over four years. Evaton,
Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
91
Wines & Winemakers 2010 Lua Nova
em Vinhas Velhas (Douro). Using grapes
sourced from old vines, this is dark and concentrated.
It’s dominated at the start by firm, dry tannins, with its
power coming from its dark, brooding fruit and dense
structure. Age for at least four years. Amara Wines
LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
90
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Vega (Douro). Smooth
and wood-aged, this has a polished texture.
Fruit flavors of blueberry and red cherry combine with
the rounded tannins and a spice note to give a rich feel.
Full yet elegant, age this for the next two years. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
90
Quinta do Portal 2009 Touriga Nacional
(Douro). Generous and spicy, this is full of
seemingly sweet black fruit, balanced by firm tannins
WineMag.com | 17
and juicy acidity. It is concentrated and full, with great
depth of flavor. Ready to drink. M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
Price: $45
abv: 14.5%
90
Quinta do Portal 2009 Frontaria (Douro).
This is smooth and ripe, with its tannins rounded within the black fruit flavor. Having aged in French
oak, it has a vanilla essence that details the ripe blackberry note. M Imports, LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
89
Companhia das Quintas 2010 Fronteira
(Douro). A blend of Touriga Nacional and
Touriga Franca, this is a firmly structured wine. It has
dense tannins that are balanced with black currant and
damson fruits. Aromatic and stylish, it should be aged
for at least three years. Importo LLC. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
89
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Paxis (Douro). Big and
fruity, with soft and ripe tannins, this has a
strong juicy element, with blackberry juice and spice
flavors that combine with the wood aging and lively
acidity on the finish. It could be aged, but is ready to
drink now. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $9
abv: 13.5%
89
Quinta do Portal 2010 Muras da Vinha
(Douro). A spice note meshes with the tannins
and black currant acidity in this elegant wine. The fruit
is bright and juicy; the tannins still firm and will likely
always lend an edge of severity. Age for 2–3 years. M
Imports, LLC. —R.V.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
86
Aveleda 2008 Charamba (Douro). Named
after a Portuguese folk dance, this is a soft,
fruity wine. It has wood flavors, attractive black currant
fruit and acidity that keeps it feeling fresh. Drink now,
as this is not for aging. FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 12.5%
86
Vidigal 2010 Red (Douro). With structured
and ripe dark-berry fruits, this is a warm wine
that has a good mineral edge. Fine tannins give a sense
of shape to the rich fruit flavors. Drink now or age for
2–3 years. Screwcap. Lion Importers and Distributors.
—R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 13%
85
Caves Aliança 2011 Foral (Douro). Spice
and red plum flavors dominate this fruity, forward effort. It has some tannins, but they seem lost in
the wine’s easy character. For drinking over the next two
years. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
LISBOA REDS
93
Pancas Reserva (Lisboa). This is beautiful,
with smooth, polished tannins and a spice note from the
wood aging. It is layered with black plum, chocolate and
licorice flavors, along with structure. The fruit is rich
and likely to come forward in the next 3–4 years. Importo LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $30
abv: 13.8%
92
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Touriga
Nacional (Lisboa). For full review see page
11. Best Buy.
Price: $13
abv: 13%
91
Pancas Selecção do Enólogo (Lisboa).
This is both fruity and mineral driven, a combination
that gives intense structure surrounded by ripe black
fruit. Chocolate and spice notes come from the wood
aging. All of the elements come together in a powerful,
full-bodied effort that should age for three years. Importo LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
Price: $16
abv: 14%
91
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Grand’Arte Alicante
Bouschet (Lisboa). For full review see page
11. Best Buy.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
89
Pancas Reserva Touriga Nacional (Lisboa). Portugal’s national grape offers a richly grounded
wine, with dark tannins, black plum fruit and tight acidity. The texture is dusty, and the wood aging just showing through on the finish. Importo LLC. —R.V.
Price: $30
abv: 13%
89
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Casa do Lago Grande
Reserva (Lisboa). Profiting from the exceptional 2009 vintage, this is rich and full bodied, yet it
retains elegance. Black fruits dominate the firm tannins,
lending a juicy character to the ripe texture. The finish
is suave and fruity. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy.
—R.V.
Price: $10
abv: 13%
87
DFJ Vinhos 2009 Alta Corte (Lisboa). A
blend of the unusual Caradoc varietal and Tinta
Roriz, this is ripe, fruity and spicy. It has enough rich
black fruit to give weight while allowing the acidity and
balancing tannins through. It’s enjoyable and ready to
drink. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $9
abv: 13%
86
Caves Bonifacio 2009 Alicante Bouschet
(Lisboa). Dark colored, this has fresh red-berry and damson fruits. With soft tannins, this is a bright,
fruity wine for drinking now. HGC Imports. Best Buy.
—R.V.
Price: $10
abv: 13%
86
Caves Bonifacio 2009 Aragonez (Lisboa). Fruity, juicy and packed with red berry
fruit, this is an attractive, easy-drinking wine. It is rich,
with good dense flavors that are balanced by raspberrylike acidity on the finish. Grand Pere Wines. Best Buy.
—R.V.
Price: $10
abv: 14%
86
Selection (Lisboa). Ripe red fruits dominate
this warm, round wine. The light touch of acidity makes
the fruit seem forward and bright, yet the core remains
rich and smooth. Its soft tannins make this ready to
drink now. LGL Imports LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $7
abv: 12.5%
85
DFJ Vinhos 2010 Coreto (Lisboa). Despite its light touch, this is fruity and full, with
its blackberry fruit dominating the warm spice note and
acidity. Soft tannins keep the wine together. Drink now.
Screwcap. Dionysos Imports Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $6
84
DFJ Vinhos 2010 Brigando (Lisboa). This
is a lightweight, fruity and softly tannic wine.
The red berry flavor is bright and breezy, and the acidity is a dominant feature. Screwcap. Lionstone International. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
84
Vidigal 2010 Reserva (Lisboa). Light and
freshly fruity, this has a red berry flavor, with a
soft spice note and round tannins. There’s an odd tomato flavor that creeps in at the end. Screwcap. Frederick
Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $8
SETUBAL REDS
89
José Maria da Fonseca 2008 Periquita Superyor (Setubal). Made from 100%
Castelão, Periquita Superyro pays homage to the time
when Castelão was called Periquita. Aged in new wood,
this is powerful and intense, with forward yet juicy
tannins. Palm Bay International. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
José Maria da Fonseca 2009 Periquita
Reserva (Setubal). This is big and juicy, with
extra weight imparted by the wood aging. Its flavors of
spice and red fruit are laced with acidity. Full bodied
and forward, this is quite drinkable. Palm Bay International. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
86
José Maria da Fonseca 2010 Periquita
Original (Setubal). Dominated by the local
Castelão grape, this easy-drinking, fruity wine has soft
tannins, attractive acidity and blackberry fruit. Juicy and
soft, this is a classic barbecue wine. Palm Bay International. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
TEJO REDS
89
Falua 2010 Conde de Vimioso (Tejo).
Complex and dense, this has a dry, firmly tannic structure, with rich black-fruit and dark chocolate
flavors. Spice and wood notes surface on the finish. Aidil
Wines & Liquor Inc. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
88
Wines & Winemakers 2010 Companhia das Lezírias Samora (Tejo). This is a
dark wine, with an intense, dry structure and seemingly sweet fruit. It has a dense herb flavor, with notes of
black plum, spice and bitter chocolate. Keep for a year.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Wines & Winemakers 2008 Companhia
das Lezírias (Tejo). Big and spicy, this has
notes of ripe black fruit and raisin, with a tarry edge and
smooth tannins. It has an intense structure and a dry
core, with a spice note and a touch of pepper from the
alcohol. Iberia Wine & Spirits LLC. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
OTHER RED WINES
88
Caves Bonifacio 2009 Património (Torres Vedras). Ripe and smooth, this has an attractive balance of blackberry flavor and spicy tannins,
with a juicy character that makes it seem richly fruity.
It could age for 1–2 years, but it’s drinkable now. HGC
Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
85
Adega de Monção 2011 Tinto (Vinho
Verde). This lightly sparkling red is earthy and
tensely acidic. With its red currant fruit, mouth-filling
acidity and tight tannins, this is meant to pair with oily
foods—especially fish. Aidil Wines & Liquor Inc. —R.V.
abv: 11%
Price: $NA
85
Caves Aliança 2011 Terra Boa (Transmontanas). From the far northeast region of
Tras-os-Montes, this is an attractively fruity wine. It has
a core of tannins that are a fine complement to the blueberry and damson fruits. Tri-Vin Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
anced. Like all LBVs, it can be consumed now, but it
can also age over several years. M Imports, LLC. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $25
fruit flavors. The finish is short and light. Wein-Bauer,
Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
87
Burmester 2007 Late Bottled Vintage
Port. Showing just the right amount of age, this
is a rich Port, with flavors of dried fruit and damson. Its
tannins and firm character fit smoothly into the round
texture. Ready to drink. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA.
—R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
85
SPAIN
84
WHITE WINES
88
Viña Costeira 2011 Blanco (Ribeiro). The
aromas of orange and mineral are uncomplicated and friendly. It feels pure and offers good flow, with
apple, lime, mineral, white pepper and anise flavors.
Fruity, dry and composed on the finish, this is great
wine for patio sipping or pairing with seafood. Luxe
Vintages. —M.S.
Price: $15
abv: 11.5%
87
84
Bodegas Pirineos 2010 Selección Mesache Blanco Macabeo-Gewürztraminer (Somontano). While it’s golden in color, the wine
isn’t oaky or over the hill. Scents of buttercup, honeysuckle, baked apple and melon lead to a round, almost
Burgundian-like mouthfeel. The flavors of melon, apple
and peach are solid, and the finish is naturally creamy
from the 50% Gewürztraminer in the blend—Macabeo
comprises the other 50%. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
PORT
87
Aveleda 2011 Casal Garcia Tinto (Portuguese Table Wine). Light and stalky, this
has black currant fruit and considerable acidity. With its
soft tannins and fruity character, it is ready to drink now.
FJN Fine Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
92
Quinta do Portal 2009 Vintage Port. Deep
and dark, this has powerful herb and spice flavors alongside the concentrated tannins and notes of
ripe black fruits and raisins. This has impressive density
and is still youthful, demonstrating fine aging potential.
M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $70
91
Cálem NV 10-Years Old White Port. Approaching tawny in color, this is a mature white
Port. It has a wood-aged tang, with spice and toast flavors that have given the wine an old gold feel. The surface is sweet, yet there is an underlying dryness. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA. —R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
90
Barros NV 20-Years Old Tawny Port. This
is rich, with an old wood feel and a sweet, stillfruity character. With its acid balance, this is fresh,
round and perfumed. Sogevinus Fine Wines USA.
—R.V.
abv: 20%
Price: $NA
89
Quinta do Portal 2007 Late Bottled Vintage Port. Rich and fruity, this is rounded as
well as concentrated. It’s on the sweet side, yet its acidity and blend of black and dried fruits are finely bal-
Marqués de Cáceres 2011 White (Rioja).
For full review see page 12. Best Buy.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
86
El Circulo 2011 Blanco (Rioja). Green banana, apple and mineral aromas are nothing to
get worked up over, but they are clean and inviting. This
shows good acidity and lift on the palate, with pleasant
flavors of citrus, nectarine and apple. It’s crisp and clean
on the finish. Luneau USA Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $9
abv: 12.5%
86
El Coto 2011 White (Rioja). For full review
see page 12. Best Buy.
abv: 12%
Price: $11
86
Enrique Mendoza 2010 Moscatel de la
Marina (Alicante). Hard and capped on the
nose, this has mixed aromas of plastic, sulfur and white
fruit. It feels creamy and tropical, with flavors of mango, banana and honey, with some bitterness on the back
palate and finish. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $19
86
Marqués de Caro 2011 Blanco (Valencia). Here’s a floral-smelling, light-style mix of
Moscatel and Macabeo that will function best as a quaffing wine. It smells of acacia and orange blossom, showing modest weight and acidity, with citrus and tropical
Maximo 2011 Viura (Vino de la Tierra de
Castilla). Aromas of hay and sweet grass are
offset by notes of apple and melon. It feels healthy and
easy, with white peach, nectarine and apple flavors. It’s
good and uncomplicated, with a touch of corn flavor on
the finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
Luna Beberide 2010 Godello (Bierzo).
The waxy apple aroma seems cidery and a touch
oxidized given how young the wine is. It feels flat and
basic, with apricot and peach flavors, and a waxy bitterness to the palate. The finish tastes stalky, like hay or
straw. Only 250 cases made. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
83
Agustín Cubero 2011 Unus Old Vine Macabeo (Calatayud). Oily on the nose, this
has a distinct whiff of matchstick and popcorn. It feels
dry—like almond skins—with oily flavors of walnuts and
white fruits. The finish is marked with a mild bitterness
as well. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
83
Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Blanco (Rioja).
Quiet on the bouquet, this offers aromas and
flavors of a wine that’s in the early stages of decline.
It feels mildly oxidized and tastes of hollow fruit and
yeasty vanilla. The finish is mild, with a note of hay.
Devo Enterprises Corporation. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
82
Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 2010 Casta Diva Cosecha Dorada Dry Muscat
(Alicante-Marina Alta). The mildly floral nose leads
to a lean and acidic palate, with flavors of lemon and
green apple. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $19
81
Dominio de Punctum 2010 Lobetia Made
with Organic Grapes Viognier (Vino de la
Tierra de Castilla). This smells like applesauce and
pear, feeling tight as a drum on the palate, with sharp
nectarine and apricot flavors. It’s tart and crimped on
the finish. Terroir Wine Cellars. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
81
Vermador 2010 White Wine Made with
Organic Grapes (Alicante). The nose smells
flat, with a scant scent of peach. It feels acidic and lacks
body, with flavors of sour apple, dried papaya and bitter almond. A blend of 50% Macabeo and 50% Airen.
Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
VINTAGE CAVA
92
Raventós I Blanc 2009 de Nit (Cava). This
has a pretty light color, with dry raspberry and
citrus scents. The palate is pure and elegant, with tangerine, grapefruit and nectarine flavors. This finishes
WineMag.com | 19
longer than most, with poise and grace. Valkyrie Selections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $26
little green, grassy and herbal, with a lettuce-like note.
Eric Solomon Selections. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $24
90
sweet tasting but not cloying, with orange and mango
fruit and a finish stocked with enlivening acidity. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
NONVINTAGE CAVA
86
Sonim 2009 Brut Nature (Cava). Substantive, with complexities on the bouquet, this has
a lemon-lime aroma that is dry, chiseled and friendly. It
feels tangy, citrusy and crisp, with tangerine and lemon
as the key flavors. This is fresh and focused from start to
finish. The addition of 15% Chardonnay brings it up a
notch. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $17
89
Mont Marçal 2009 Rosado Brut (Cava).
This gets going with clean, light cherry and berry aromas that bring a citrus note to the fore. It feels
crisp, dry and pure, with citrus, plum and dust flavors.
An elegant rosé made from the Trepat grape, it finishes
dry and spicy, with ample leftover fruit. Classical Wines.
—M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
89
Sumarroca 2009 Brut Reserva (Cava).
What a difference a year makes: 2008 yielded
a fine wine, but the warmer 2009 vintage has produced
a classic Cava with pretty aromas of apples and fresh
green herbs. It feels chiseled and tight, with a mix of
green apple, peach and nectarine flavors. Smooth and
easy on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $22
88
Agustí Torelló Mata 2008 Brut Reserva
(Cava). This leans a little green and soda-like
on the nose, but it picks up clarity and speed on the palate, which carries a tangy, citric snap. It tastes of citrus
and lees, and the finish is medium in length and healthy.
Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $21
87
Agustí Torelló Mata 2009 Aliguer Brut
Vintage (Cava). This is a little wayward and
funky on the nose, with a lightly pickled aroma. It’s a
forward Cava with a yeasty, creamy feel. Its acidity and
proper bubbles set up flavors of pastry, powdered sugar and sweet apple. The finish is quick, ending with a
white-pepper flavor. Casa Ventura Imports. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $16
87
Mont Marçal 2008 Brut Reserva (Cava).
The nectarine and mild vanilla aromas are subdued yet solid. On the palate, it’s all about stone fruit
flavors, such as peach and nectarine, with apple and cider notes on the balanced and healthy finish. Classical
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $15
86
Vilarnau 2009 Brut Nature (Cava). Apple,
mineral and light yeast notes define the bouquet. It feels snappy and zesty, with a mix of pickled citrus, fresh sauerkraut and lemon flavors. This is cleansing and tangy on the tail end, with a briny finish. San
Francisco Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
85
Gramona 2008 Gran Cuvee Brut (Cava).
This smells yeasty and flat, with a heavy, bready
quality. The palate feels heady and plump, with a mealy
citrus flavor and a lot of foam on the palate. It finishes a
88
Freixenet NV Cordon Rosado (Cava). For
full review see page 11. Best Buy.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
88
Freixenet NV Elyssia Gran Cuvée Brut
(Cava). For full review see page 9.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
88
La Xarmada NV Heretat de Sangenis Brut
Nature (Cava). Toasty and a touch oily on
the nose, this has green fruit aromas of lime and kiwi.
It shows crisp tartness on the palate, with a touch of
grapefruit and core flavors of nectarine and orange. It’s
dry on the quick finish, with a touch of almond skin.
ENYE Distribution Group, LLC. —M.S.
Price: $22
abv: 11.5%
88
Mas Fi NV Brut (Cava). For full review see
page 12. Best Buy.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $11
88
Masia Puigmoltó NV Absidis Brut Rosé
(Cava). Dry, toasty and composed up front,
this has a nice palate set straight by proper acidity and
base structure. Citrus and brown sugar flavors feature a
note of orange rind, and it stays fresh and citrusy on the
finish. Made from Trepat. ENYE Distribution Group,
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $16
88
Segura Viudas NV Brut Reserva (Cava).
abv: 12%
Price: $10
87
Bodegas Solo Privee NV Cava. Lemon,
lime, apple and nectarine aromas are regular
and clean. It feels good, citrusy and just round enough,
with passion fruit, grapefruit and orange flavors. Tasty
and fresh, this works well as a refresher. Classic Wines,
Inc. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $13
87
Freixenet NV Cordon Negro Brut 150
años (Cava). Freixenet’s signature Cava
is consistent and pure as usual, with aromas of white
fruit and white pepper and an overall freshness on the
nose. It feels crisp and focused, with a foamy palate that
brings apple, lime, peach and spice flavors. The finish is
smooth. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
86
Freixenet NV Elyssia Brut Pinot Noir
(Cava). Creamsicle aromas have a dry tea note,
and overall this tastes like Pinot Noir. It feels foamy and
soft, with flavors of tea leaf, orange and cherry. The finish is rooty tasting and mild. Freixenet USA. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $18
86
Freixenet NV Spumante (Cava). Light,
powdery, sweet and citrusy on the nose, this
becomes fairly creamy on the palate. It’s aggressively
Masia Puigmoltó NV Absidis Brut (Cava).
This is flowery and open on the nose, but then
it flattens out in the mouth, with mild cut and an easy
bead. It tastes of soft apple and peach, while the finish
fruity and satisfying. ENYE Distribution Group, LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $16
86
Segura Viudas NV Aria Estate Brut
(Cava). Apple and stone fruit aromas come
with a mineral component and a stalky, hay note. It feels
good and full, showing classic Cava flavors of stalky apple and nectarine. The finish is smooth and easygoing.
Freixenet USA. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
86
Unión Vinícola del Este NV Vega Medien
Brut Macabeo-Chardonnay (Cava). Aromas and peach, apple and a spot of hay make for a nice,
clean and familiar bouquet. It feels fresh and easy, with
tangerine, nectarine and spiced apple flavors. Crisp,
solid and quick on the finish, this is clean overall. American Northwest Distributors Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
86
Vilarnau NV Brut (Cava). The nose is defined by white fruit aromas, while the palate is a
bit flat in feel but lively enough. It tastes of papaya and
peach, with a touch of green herb. San Francisco Wine
Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $16
85
Freixenet NV Carta Nevada Brut (Cava).
Dry, crisp and nice, this has white fruit aromas
that are familiar and friendly. It comes across medium
bodied, dusty and yeasty, with an apple accent and a
vanilla flavor. The finish is lightly toasted and slightly
briny. Freixenet USA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $9
85
Maria Casanovas NV Glaç Brut Nature
(Cava). Crisp white-fruit aromas come with a
touch of green grass. It feels regular, with briny lime
and tart apple flavors. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $30
85
Segura Viudas NV Brut Rosé (Cava).
Clean, dry and light on the nose, this has a
smoky, leafy accent. While it’s not superlively on the
palate, it offers nice grapefruit, cherry and nectarine flavors, with a dry, smoky and tasty finish. Freixenet USA.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
85
Vilarnau NV Brut Rosé (Cava). Orange and
nectarine aromas carry the nose to a wide, fairly
acidic palate that still manages to fall a little flat in terms
of character. Mid-tier notes of orange and stone fruit
set up a finish with similar flavors. San Francisco Wine
Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
83
Berberana NV Gran Tradición Brut
(Cava). This smells like barbecue and Eastern
European oak. It feels flat and static, with woody resin and savory flavors to go with notes of nectarine and
white grape. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $12
82
Loxarel NV 999 Brut Nature Rosé (Cava).
An idiosyncratic wine, offering a yeasty orange
marmalade aroma followed by a razor-sharp palate with
sour citrus and apricot flavors. It’s grating and citric
on the finish, with a yeasty offset. Classic Wines, Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
82
Mas Fi NV Brut Rosé (Cava). Heavy and
dark in color, this is stalky on the nose, with a
compost component that doesn’t scream “fresh and
ready.” It feels fairly snappy, but it tastes tart and slightly vegetal before finishing with rhubarb flavors. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $12
80
Unión Vinícola del Este NV Vega Medien
Brut Rosé (Cava). Salmon in color, this is
pulpy and perfumed on the nose, with an artificial leaning. Overly foamy on the palate, this has a bitter, herbal
flavor. American Northwest Distributors Inc. —M.S.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $10
ROSADOS
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Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Garnacha Rosado (Rioja). The candied red-fruit aroma is
soft yet snappy. It tastes briny and citrusy before ending
with a persistent peppery bitterness and lively acidity.
CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
81
Bodegas Valdemar 2011 Conde de
Valdemar Tempranillo-Garnacha Rosado
(Rioja). Twizzler and other red candy aromas lead to a
creamy feeling yet acidic palate that tastes like raspberry extract. Sharp acidity prevents what would otherwise
be a cloying wine. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
fruit, chocolate, toast and spice flavors. Blackened as
well on the finish, with mint and toast. Hold until 2015.
Enotrends LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
Price: $65
abv: 15%
89
Luna Beberide 2009 Finca la Cuesta
Mencía (Bierzo). Floral plum and blueberry
aromas are exotic and interesting as opposed to heavy
and oaky. Shows rubbery tannins and a wide mouthfeel
in front of roasted berry and plum flavors. Savory on the
back end, with an oak character that’s not too demanding. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
Price: $22
abv: 14%
89
Peique 2010 Tinto Mencía (Bierzo). Plum
and raspberry aromas turn herbal with airing.
Feels good and plump, with restrained tannins. Tastes
like roasted red berries, dry oak and leather mixed with
leafy herbs. Good but loses some clarity as it breathes.
Steve Miles Selections. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 14%
86
V&N Cellars 2009 Mencía (Bierzo). A Barcelona-based brand with this Bierzo label that’s
good, with generic red-fruit aromas and cheesy smelling
oak. Feels light, snappy and feminine, with spicy, resiny
flavors along with tart raspberry and tomato. Ends
abruptly. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —M.S.
Price: $18
abv: 13%
CAMPO DE BORJA
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Demencia de Autor 2008 Demencia
Mencía (Bierzo). Dark, compact and black,
with graphite and growling blackberry aromas. Feels
tight and drawing but serious and structured, with black
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BIERZO
Bodegas Aragonesas 2008 Castillo de
Fuendejalon Crianza (Campo de Borja).
This opens with lightly perfumed red-fruit aromas of
raspberry and plum, with a bright palate that shows
mostly red plum, raspberry and cherry flavors. This is a
basic, clean wine comprised of 75% Garnacha and 25%
Tempranillo. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy.
—M.S.
Price: $9
abv: 12.5%
Coto de Hayas 2008 Crianza (Campo de
Borja). This is a dark specimen, with blackfruit and raisiny aromas that turn herbal with time. It
has rubbery tannins and flavors of plum and herb. Good
as a whole but sort of squeeky and hard in feel. A blend
of 60% Garnacha and 40% Tempranillo. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
Bodegas del Mundo 2011 Valdemoreda
Garnacha Rosado (Rioja). Strawberry and
raspberry aromas set up a reedy, flush palate with stemmy, candied strawberry flavors. Turns green and bitter
on the finish. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $8
Peñascal 2011 Tempranillo Rosado (Vino
de la Tierra de Castilla y León). Loud citrus and berry aromas precede an overloaded palate that
carries stalky plum flavors. Pickled tasting on the finish.
HAB North America. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
85
Luna Beberide 2009 Art Mencía (Bierzo).
Meaty, dense, savory and extremely oaky and
dark on the nose. Feels tannic and tough, with intensity
to spare and tons of black-fruit flavor that turns more
toasted, roasted and barbecued as the wine unfolds.
Finishes with burnt meat and mint flavors along with
grinding tannins. Needs another 3 or 4 years, and even
then it may not be a soft, friendly Mencía. Grapes of
Spain. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
Price: $55
abv: 14%
Coto de Hayas 2010 Roble TempranilloCabernet Sauvignon (Campo de Borja).
Briary red-fruit aromas are forward and attractive. Feels
juicy, with good acidic cut and ample body. Flavors of
dark plum and berry come with hints of crushed herbs
and dry spices. Finishes bold, with peppery spice and a
pinch of heat. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy.
—M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
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The finish remains fruity and firm. Winery Exchange.
—M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
Bodegas Aragonesas 2008 Mósen Cleto
Crianza (Campo de Borja). Brambly redfruit aromas mix with notes of sweet milk chocolate and
dust. It feels crisp, tight and fresh, with raspberry and
lightly herbal plum flavors. This finishes taut and fruity.
A blend of 75% Garnacha and 25% Tempranillo. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $9
abv: 12.5%
86
El Pensador 2010 Tempranillo (Campo
de Borja). Snappy cherry and berry aromas
have the slightest accent of mint and grass. It feels fresh,
forward and tight, with plum and spicy berry flavors.
EMPORDÀ
Oliver Conti 2009 Turó Negre (Empordà).
Leather and smoky berry aromas lead to a lively,
racy palate that’s tight, crisp and traditional in feel.
The plum, berry and earth flavors are old school—
more elegant and restrained than pushy and forward.
Long and chiseled on the finish, this is a blend of five
grapes including Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Grenache. Winebow. —M.S.
Price: $50
abv: 14%
88
Oliver Conti 2009 Ara (Empordà). Cherry
cough drop, raspberry and minerally aromas
settle on the nose. This four-grape blend shows a lively
palate that’s dry and crisp in feel, with raspberry, plum
and red pepper flavors that lead to a tight finish that peters out quickly. Winebow. —M.S.
Price: $20
abv: 13.5%
84
Oliver Conti 2008 Carlota (Empordà).
Imagine all of the scents you associate with a
Margherita pizza and that’s what this wine smells like.
The nose is leafy and full of oregano, basil and leather
notes, while the flavor profile is pure tomato sauce, herb
and spice. A blend of 75% Cabernet Franc and 25%
Cabernet Sauvignon. Winebow. —M.S.
Price: $30
abv: 13.5%
JUMILLA
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Bodegas Carchelo 2009 Sierva (Jumilla).
Big and lush, this has graphite, coconut, minty
oak and huge berry fruit aromas. It’s plush in the mouth
but not wayward or overly big, with roasted plum,
molasses, leather and raspberry flavors and a forward
barrel note. Savory and long on the finish, this is a blend
of 40% Monastrell, 30% Tempranillo and 15% each
Syrah and Cabernet. Classical Wines. —M.S.
Price: $28
abv: 14.5%
89
Bodegas Carchelo 2010 C (Jumilla). Focused and fresh, this has aromas of berry and
integrated citrus. It feels rubbery and lush, with acidic
WineMag.com | 21
cut and roasted flavors of plum, blackberry and leather.
It finishes mildly roasted and earthy, with a leathery lasting impression. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
87
Bodegas Luzón 2008 Luzón Crianza (Jumilla). Hard and capped on the nose, this has
hints of cement, cheesy oak, minty fruit and tobacco.
Savory and roasted on the palate, with a blend of Marsala and mushroom as well as saline, baked berry and
ham notes. The finish is savory in a natural, nongreen
way. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
87
Las Hermanas 2010 Joven MonastrellSyrah (Jumilla). This has an earthy nose, but
airing helps this Monastrell-Syrah blend move beyond
the leathery, warm notes. It feels full yet balanced, with
roasted, savory flavors of stewed plum and grilled meat.
It’s warm, with a dose of molasses on the finish. WellOiled Wine Company. —M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 14%
83
Bodegas Luzón 2010 Luzón MonastrellSyrah (Jumilla). This is leathery and stemmy
on the nose, with horsey plum and raspberry aromas.
It feels narrow, with rubbery, herbal and roasted berry
flavors. This is a rustic, roasted wine no matter how you
slice it. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $9
MONTSANT
88
Aloja 2010 Montsant. Jammy berry, light
mint and herb notes carry a jumpy nose to a palate that has oak-infused plum, raspberry and light herb
flavors. It finishes mostly calm and collected, but also a
touch racy, with a pastry flavor. Novo Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $14
88
Mas Sorrer 2010 Montsant. Roasted plum,
baked berry and jammy aromas can’t be missed,
but it’s structured and not at all soft in the mouth, with
wild berry, cherry and boysenberry flavors. It really
pours on the fruit, ending fresh with no nonsense. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
87
Celler Dosterras 2009 Vespres (Montsant). This is dense and saturated, with crushed
blackberry and plum aromas that turn more jammy and
granular as the wine breathes. It’s extracted and heavy
on the palate, with candied black plum and berry flavors
that lose steam on the finish. This could be too heavy
for fans of leaner-bodied wines. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $28
87
Cellers Unió 2009 Perlat (Montsant). Plum
and berry aromas get a strong assist from notes
of mint and licorice on the nose. Lively and packed on
the palate, it’s acidic and lean, even more so as it unwinds and breathes. Flavors of baked red plum and
mocha are followed by a balsamic-tasting finish. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
83
Bula 2009 Montsant. This is brambly, stalky
and baked on the nose, and the palate is wide,
tannic and scratchy. The flavor profile is all roasted
plum, bacon and herb accents, finishing stalky and savory. Aviva Vino. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
NAVARRA
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Ochoa 2004 Single Vineyard Reserva
Tempranillo (Navarra). Hard, crusty leather
is the opening aroma, then a touch of tar gives way to
notes of tobacco, latent oak and perfumed, mature fruit.
It feels full, grabby and on the cusp of being syrupy,
with roasted berry and spice flavors. It shows an herbal,
hot side on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
87
Bodegas Corellanas 2006 Viña Rubican
Crianza Tempranillo (Navarra). Aromas
of root beer, autumn leaves, leather and raisins indicate ripeness more than heavyness. It shows lots of life
and kick on the palate, where the flavors run toasty and
rooty, with a hint of brown sugar. Peppy acidity keeps it
lively and traditional through the finish. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
Price: $14
abv: 13%
86
Ochoa 2008 Crianza Tempranillo (Navarra). This smells nice and rooty, and also a bit
like strawberry jam. It feels steely, zesty, juicy and almost too acidic, with blazing red plum and pie cherry
flavors that are offset by integrated, spicy oak. It’s dry
and tangy on the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
86
Vega Sindoa 2010 Tempranillo (Navarra).
Dark plum and berry aromas come with a touch
of rubber. It feels bright, healthy and juicy, with good
body and earthy berry and dark plum flavors. While it’s
not complicated, it’s accurate and flavorful. Fine Estates
From Spain. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $8
85
Castillo de Monjardin 2010 Tintico Tempranillo (Navarra). Cherry is the prime fruit
aroma, and overall the nose is rubbery and edgy. Feels
squeeky and tannic, with plum and red berry flavors
leading to a fresh but raw feeling and a peppery-tasting
finish. Winebow. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
PRIORAT
93
Cims de Porrera 2005 Clássic Carignan
(Priorat). Modern and bulky, this has a lot of
great things going on. It opens with aromas of mineral, graphite, sage and bold berry, with chewy, roasted
black-fruit flavors. It’s long, compact, chocolaty and
spicy on the finish. Still not mature but it’s drinkable—
best from 2014 and on. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $89
92
Clos Gebrat 2010 Priorat. Fresh, floral and
not overbearing on the nose, this has red berry and cassis aromas, with no interference from oak
or too much extraction. It feels pure and elegant, with
wild berry and cherry flavors that end on a ripe, slightly
sweet-tasting finish. Good for near-term drinking. The
Artisan Collection. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
Price: $24
abv: 14%
91
La Conreria d’Scala Dei 2007 Iugiter (Priorat). Black fruit, heavy oak, tobacco and mineral aromas are welcoming on this ripped Priorat.It’s full
bodied, holding onto its schisty character via berry fruit
and mineral flavors. Additional oak, vanilla and mint
flavors rise up on the finish, but there’s plenty of plum
and cherry notes below the surface. 500 cases made.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
91
Mas Igneus 2009 Barranc dels Closos
(Priorat). This is deep and fruity up front, with
blackberry and cola aromas that come with creamy oak
and offsetting minerality. Full and jammy on the palate,
with flavors of blackberry, fine herbs and lightly applied
molasses. Round and concentrated on the finish. Drink
now through 2016. Opici Wines. —M.S.
Price: $25
abv: 15%
90
Marco Abella 2007 Mas Mallola (Priorat).
The rose petal and kirsch aromas are easy to
like, with notes of tobacco and smoky earth in the mix.
It feels good, easygoing and mature, with raspberry,
cherry and spice flavors. Cool, collected and mature as a
whole, this is ready now. Vinea Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
89
Nita 2010 Priorat. A touch scratchy on the
bouquet, with a red berry aroma and a wild herb
note. It feels fresh and decidedly “red” in style, with
red plum and red currant flavors. More easygoing than
brooding, this finishes light. Drink now through 2015.
Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
87
Bodegas La Cartuja 2009 Priorat. An oaky
style of Priorat, this smells of hickory and campfire, with bacon, plum and cherry notes. Solid but narrow in the mouth, with berry and cherry flavors mixed
with hard spice and chocolate notes. It has just enough
acidity to stay fresh, turning slightly fiery on the finish.
Ole Imports. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $15
87
Mas La Mola 2007 Priorat. This smells rubbery, like a tire, before the berry and plum aromas settle in—although it remains a bit like pastic in
scent. It feels tight and balanced, with acidity pushing
flavors of plum, strawberry and mineral. This is crisp,
juicy and more acidic than weighty on the finish. Parador Selections, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
85
Ferré I Catasús 2008 Terra de Fic 1 (Priorat). Baked and heavy, this has prune, raisin and
jammy berry aromas. The weightiness carries onto the
palate, which is chewy and smooth. Flavors of blackberry, spice and jammy syrup lead to a finish with a chocolaty tone. Tasted twice, with consistent results. M Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
RIBERA DEL DUERO
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Garcia Figuero 2006 Vendimia Seleccionada (Ribera del Duero). This is incredibly
inviting on the bouquet due to aromas of leather, raisin,
tea and mocha. It feels lifted, benefiting from the superb structure and tannins, while the flavors of leathery
berry, coffee, toast and chocolate are outstanding. This
is pure, deep, elegant and impeccably balanced Tempranillo. Drink now–2018. Quintessential Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
Price: $69
abv: 14.5%
93
Alidis 2007 Expresión (Ribera del Duero).
Rooty and earthy smelling, this has aromas of
leather, cassis, tobacco, dried cheese and cola. It feels
rich and nicely textured, with firm but friendly tannins
that set up tobacco, coffee, mocha and roasted berry
flavors. It’s chocolaty in an uncanny way on the finish.
Drink now through 2018. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
Price: $70
abv: 14%
91
Montecastro 2007 y Llanahermosa
(Ribera del Duero). This is dark and tarry at
first, with aromas of freshly laid asphalt, pepper, fine
herbs, burnt toast and roasted berry. This feels racy,
healthy and balanced, with a creamy quality to the palate. It tastes natural and correct, with plum, berry, vanilla and spice flavors. On the finish, it’s smooth with
a strong oak-based vanilla flavor. Drink now through
2012. Classic Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
Price: $45
abv: 14%
90
Telmo Rodríguez 2006 M2 de Matallana
(Ribera del Duero). After a leafy, somewhat
burnt opening that seems muddled, things fall into
place. The palate has a chewy, tannic, staunch feel that
frames earthy berry, mocha, brown sugar and stewed
plum flavors. It gets better and better as it unfolds,
with prune and kirsch notes on the finish. Vintus LLC.
—M.S.
Price: $47
abv: 14.5%
89
Peñalba Herraiz 2009 Aptus (Ribera del
Duero). Dark in color, this has an inviting mix
of herb, spice, black plum and roasted berry aromas. It
shows good balance and saturation across the palate,
with staunch tannins and a creamy feel. Flavors of black
fruits, tobacco and vanilla are generous, while the finish is not at all angular, choppy or challenging. Drink
now–2014. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
Price: $16
abv: 14.5%
87
stalky as it airs out. But overall it’s firm on the palate,
with roasted, oak-influenced flavors of savory berry and
saline. Full on the finish, with healthy but not overly aggressive tannic bite. M Imports, LLC. —M.S.
Price: $25
abv: 14.5%
87
Rios de Tinta 2010 Ribera del Duero. This
smells bullish and chunky, with a lively, aciddriven palate that boasts cherry, dark plum and cocoa
flavors. It feels drawing and full of vitality, so serve this
with food or allow it to breathe. Grapes of Spain. —M.S.
Price: $14
abv: 14%
86
Emilio Moro 2010 Finca Resalso (Ribera
del Duero). Aromas of minty oak, pastry and
jammy raspberry set up a palate that’s racy, juicy and
somewhat raw feeling, with plum and raspberry flavors.
It’s woody on the finish, with a spice flavor. Multiple
U.S. importers. —M.S.
Price: $17
abv: NA
86
Finca El Encinal 2009 Single Vineyard
Roble (Ribera del Duero). Standard berry
aromas show touches of raisin and earth, but not too
much of either. It feels fresh, crisp and alert, with cherry tomato, berry fruit, tobacco and vanilla flavors. This
feels healthy but not real deep or complex on the finish.
Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
87
Telmo Rodríguez 2010 LZ (Rioja). Blackfruit aromas are forceful, toasty and gritty. It
feels solid, fruity and full bodied, with black fruit flavors
that come across ripe and generous. It’s oaky but not
overly so. Vintus LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
86
Bodegas Riojanas 2008 Puerta Vieja
Crianza (Rioja). Plum and berry aromas are
a touch rubbery at first, but they air out well. It feels
medium bodied and clean, with traditional Rioja flavors
of dry oak, dill, tobacco, plum and cherry. The finish is
mild and fresh. Vintage Wines Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
85
Bodegas Valdemar 2008 Conde de Valdemar Crianza (Rioja). This is fruity but simple
on the nose, with plum and cherry aromas. It feels jammy and a touch muddled, with boysenberry, plum and
blackberry flavors but not much oak character. It’s grippy on the finish. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Martín Berdugo 2010 Joven (Ribera del
Duero). At first the nose is high toned and
jumpy, but with time it falls into a good place with a medicinal berry note at the fore. Solid, tannic and nervy, it
has plum and noticeable young-oak flavors. This turns
herbal tasting and choppy on the finish. Puerto Viejo
Wines. —M.S.
Price: $11
abv: 14%
Convento Oreja 2010 Roble (Ribera del
Duero). Jumpy and nervy smelling, with tottering aromas of jammy berry and strawberry. It feels dilute at first, but more structure and body appear as the
wine unfolds. The flavor of jammy raspberry is somewhat herbal, and the finish is light. Kysela Père et Fils.
—M.S.
Price: $23
abv: 14%
84
Matiz 2010 Roble (Ribera del Duero). This
smells a bit like asphalt and peanuts. It feels angular, with plum, berry and pepper flavors. The finish is
spicy, with drying tannins and a lasting leafy flavor. Steve
Miles Selections. —M.S.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
Matarromera 2001 Gran Reserva (Ribera
del Duero). Tobacco, brown sugar, dried fruit
and vanilla aromas work the bouquet, which is very
nice. In the mouth, however, it’s acidic, almost to the
point of being citrusy. Flavors of earthy sour plum and
raspberry are propped up by lasting acids, while the
palate teeters on lemony and shear. Drink now. Matarromera USA, Inc. —M.S.
Price: $110
abv: 13.5%
83
87
89
Prado Rey 2009 Adaro de Prado Rey Crianza (Ribera del Duero). This smells savory
and roasted, like hickory, before turning earthy and
and wood smoke emerge. It has a nice full body and a
few levels of texture, while the wine’s dark plum and
berry flavors are generously spiced. This is composed,
full and grabby on the finish. Drink now through 2018.
Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $69
Viña Vilano 2010 Roble (Ribera del Duero).
The nose smells minty and capped with rubbery, blackened aromas. It feels tangy and tannic, with
medicinal flavors of berry and resiny oak. It’s powerful
but rough. European Wine Imports. —M.S.
Price: $12
abv: 13.5%
RIOJA
Marqués de Elciego 2007 Edición Limitada Tempranillo (Rioja). This is black and tarry on first take, but complex aromas of pine, baked plum
Señorio de Uñuela 2010 Rioja. The nose is
big and rubbery, with aromas of bacon, tar and
black plum. It feels young and choppy, with a lightly
herbal berry flavor that turn more roasted in character
as the wine opens. This gets the job done despite showing a roasted flavor throughout. Devo Enterprises Corporation. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
J. Garcia Carrion 2009 Antaño Tempranillo (Rioja). For full review see page 13. Best
Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $6
84
Viña Palaciega 2007 Crianza (Rioja). Briary berry and milk chocolate aromas lead to
a tart, alert palate full of red berry, sour plum, vanilla
and spice flavors. Juicy acidity creates a long, racy finish that brings lasting raspberry character. Tri-Vin Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
83
J. Garcia Carrion 2010 Antaño Tempranillo (Rioja). This smells granular and jammy,
yet it feels snappy and dry, with raspberry, red plum,
tomato and briny flavors. The finish is fresh and red in
style. CIV/USA. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
TORO
92
Quinola 2008 Toro. This is a serious Toro
wine with smooth, dark, leathery aromas along
with hints of wintergreen, licorice and berry pastry. It
feels rich and layered, with complex flavors of licorice
gum drop, nutmeg, chocolate and blackberry. Almost
WineMag.com | 23
decadent but not over the top or too tannic. Drink now–
2016. Hidalgo Imports, LLC. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $75
lightly herbal and snappy on the finish. Vicente Gandia
PLA. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
89
François Lurton 2008 Campo Alegre
(Toro). Toasty oak and hickory aromas are the
primary greeting, with licorice, pastry and blackberry
notes underneath. It feels saturated and chewy, with
full-scale berry, prune, chocolate and mossy flavors. It’s
dense on the finish, with smooth tannins and heft. Winesellers Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 15%
Price: $30
85
86
84
85
OTHER RED WINES
Bodegas Torreduero 2008 Peñamonte 3
Meses de Barrica (Toro). After a somewhat
gritty start, the bouquet settles on aromas of perfumed
red fruit and lemony oak. It feels full, with nice acidic
cut, offering flavors of leather, earth and savory baked
fruit. Fairly long and mildly herbal on the finish. Vintage
Wines Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $11
Bodegas Fariña 2010 Dama de Toro Tempranillo (Toro). This smells a bit stalky, leathery and warm at first, but airing brings it along. While
it’s never all that vivid on the nose, it does smell of
baked berry and plum. It feels wide and neither tannic
nor tough, with lightly herbal, rustic flavors of plum and
berry. Specialty Cellars. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
85
Bodegas Fariña 2010 Vino Pr1mero
(Toro). Call this Toro Nuevo in the same vein
as Beaujolais Nouveau—the grape juice becomes finished wine in just six weeks. Look for a jammy nose with
licorice and blackberry aromas and a simple palate that
pushes plum and berry flavors, with little structure or
stuffing. Specialty Cellars. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
UTIEL-REQUENA
86
Bodegas Iranzo 2010 Vertus Wine Made
with Organically Grown Grapes Cabernet
Sauvignon-Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). More
flush and generous than the Vertus 100% Tempranillo, this blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Cabernet
is bold but not heavy, with a medium body and clean,
direct flavors of red berry and plum. It shows dashes of
pepper and spice on the medium-long finish. Natural
Merchants LLC. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $9
abv: 12.5%
85
Bodegas Iranzo 2010 Vertus Wine Made
with Organically Grown Grapes Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). On the nose, raspberry and
plum aromas come with a slight brambly note. The palate is juicy and fresh, with flavors of plum, cherry and a
touch of spice. This finishes steady, with focused flavors.
Natural Merchants LLC. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
85
Vicente Gandia 2008 Hoya de Cadenas
Reserva Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena).
Earthy, roasted scents sit atop mild cherry and raspberry aromas that carry a slight green element. It feels shrill
but juicy, with red plum and raspberry flavors. It’s mild,
Viña Degana 2008 Crianza Tempranillo
Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). This is solid
stuff for the price, with berry and pencil eraser aromas.
It feels more soft than hard, with a jammy mouthfeel
and grabby tannins in front of berry and plum flavors
that turn medicinal. Prestige Wine Group. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $5
Vicente Gandia 2010 Marqués de Chivé
Crianza Tempranillo (Utiel-Requena). This
has thin fruit aromas, with scents of herb and candied
milk chocolate. It’s a solid wine for $8, with zesty acidity and standard raspberry and plum flavors. The lightweight finish turns lightly herbal. Vicente Gandia PLA.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $8
91
Torres 2008 Mas La Plana Black Label
Cabernet Sauvignon (Penedès). For full
review see page 8.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
88
Anima Negra 2009 ÀN/2 (Vi de la Terra
Mallorca). This is a unique wine from Mallorca with light cherry and raspberry aromas. Clampy,
dry and tannic on the palate, it’s full of savory, roasted
barbecue flavors along with tomato and red fruit notes.
Very Mallorcan in that it’s salty and savory from start to
finish. Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
88
Anima Negra 2007 Àn (Vi de la Terra Mallorca). Rusty in color, this is loaded with dill,
tobacco, lemon peel and spice aromas. It feels choppy and jagged on its own, but will do better with food.
Flavors of rooty, roasted berries are savory and baked,
while the finish is dry and pinched. Drink now–2014.
Winebow. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
88
Torres 2008 Gran Coronas Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Penedès). Notes of
baked-berry, herb and savory spice come together well
on the bouquet. It feels chunky and round but lively,
with plum and cassis flavors that carry an herbal, tomatoey shading. This is fresh and herbal enough so that
you know it’s Old World. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
85
Evohé 2010 Viñas Viejas Tempranillo
(Vino de la Tierra Ribera del GállegoCinco Villas). The medicinal plum aroma comes with
a note of celery as well as anise and/or licorice. It feels
tight, with rough tannins, then tastes like fresh red berries and plum. This is a bit edgy and choppy feeling, but
solid for the price. Vinum International. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
85
Pardevalles 2008 Gamonal Prieto Picudo
(Tierra de León). This is clean on the nose,
with blackberry and plum aromas. It feels full and solid, bearing flavors of black cherry and dark plum, with
a meaty undertone. Mint, spice and black fruit notes
carry the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
85
Vicente Gandia 2010 Organic Cabernet
Sauvignon (Spain). The tea and raspberry
aromas are easygoing, and that best describes this organic Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s powerful enough on the
palate, with a good berry flavor that tilts towards raspberry. The finish is herbal and peppery. Vicente Gandia
PLA. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
84
Terrenal 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Yecla). This opens with standard cherry and berry
aromas before transitioning to a juicy palate with red
berry, plum, herb and grass notes. It finishes a little hot
and aggressive, but for $4 who’s complaining? L. Watson, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
Price: $4
abv: 13.5%
84
Terrenal 2010 Estate Bottled Tempranillo
(Yecla). Nice on the nose, this has a leafy note
and a mellow red-berry aroma. Bouncy and rubbery
feeling, it has easygoing flavors of raspberry and plum.
It’s candied and rubbery tasting on the finish, but good
overall. L. Watson, Inc. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $4
83
Bodegas del Paramo 2009 El Médico Prieto Picudo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla
y León). Roasted and rubbery smelling, this has heavy
oak influence that yields notes of mint and shoe. Shearing on the palate despite its body, this has flavors of oakbased vanilla, mint and sweet-and-sour plum. Prieto
Picudo is a difficult grape to make into good wine. Classical Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $37
83
Pago de Callejo 2008 Finca Valdelroble
(Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y León). This
smells like a new coat of road tar mixed with black olive tapenade and herb. It feels tannic and clumsy, with
herb and stewed-fruit flavors. The cooked finish ends
with roasted berry and olive notes. The Artisan Collection. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
82
Bodegas Fariña 2010 Peromato Tempranillo (Vino de la Tierra de Castilla y
León). Rubbery on the nose, this has berry aromas
lurking below. On the palate, it feels acidic, with tart
raspberry flavors. It’s lean on the finish, with a touch of
oak. Specialty Cellars. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
82
Raimat 2007 Castell de Raimat Cabernet
Sauvignon (Costers del Segre). A tight
note of spearmint defines the nose. The palate follows
suit: It’s pinched and hard, with outsized acidity leading
to a lemony palate, with searing cherry and red plum
flavors. It doesn’t waiver on the finish. Aveniù Brands,
Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
DESSERT WINES
97
Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 1999 Casta Diva Fondillón Sweet Monastrell (Alicante). Fondillón represents the pinnacle of red Spanish dessert wines, and the 1999 vintage just might make
your jaw drop. Subtle but expansive on the nose, with
a blend of baked dark-fruit and cinnamon aromas, it
is liquid heaven in the mouth, with excellent balance
and flavors of roasted plums, black cherry, nutmeg and
chocolate. This is pure, structured and outstanding
from start to finish. Drink now or hold in a proper cellar
for another 10 or 20 years. 100 cases made. Classical
Wines. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
Price: $88/500 ml
abv: 16%
92
Ochoa 2010 Vino Dulce Moscatel (Navarra). This smells like orange marmalade. It feels
smooth and creamy, but not terribly thick due to fine
acidity, with flavors of orange, honey, peach and spice.
Long and creamy on the finish, this is a fresh, delicious
wine that should impress anyone with a sweet tooth.
Frontier Wine Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
Price: $28/500 ml
abv: 12.5%
91
Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 2007 Casta Diva Recóndita Armonía Sweet Monastrell (Alicante). Composed and not the least bit pushy
or punishing on the bouquet, this has gorgeous berry
and spice aromas. It feels a bit racy and high in acidity,
but that will only serve the wine well in the long run.
Plum and boysenberry flavors lead to a racy, high-acid
finish. Drink now–2020. Classical Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.S.
Price: $30/500 ml
abv: 14%
90
Costers del Priorat 2007 Dolç de l’Obac
(Priorat). This starts out with mustard and
horseradish aromas, but with the chance to breath, it
reveals a dark berry scent. The palate feels tannic and
sticky, with flavors of cooked plum, hard spice and
brown sugar. It’s grabby, fiery and full of flavor on the
finish, with a slightly abrasive feel. Spanish Vines, Inc.
—M.S.
abv: 17%
Price: $129/500 ml
88
Dehesa el Carrascal 2008 Dulcemar Garnacha (Almansa). Rusty in color, this has a
baked fruit aromas suggestive of raisin, cherry and
plum. It’s thick, but it maintains freshness due to the
solid acidity. This feels heavy, with robust flavors of
roasted plum and blackberry, but the finish isn’t cloying.
Iberian Wine Importers. —M.S.
Price: $25/500 ml
abv: 13.5%
PROVENCE
WHITE WINES
89
Château Routas 2010 Coquelicot Viognier-Chardonnay (Vin de Pays Var).
Smooth and rich, its creamy texture is rounded out with
a toast note. Flavors of peppered apricot and green
plum work well together to give a warm, concentrated
wine that shows all of its ripe fruit up front. USA Wine
West. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
87
Triennes 2010 Sainte-Fleur Viognier (Vin
de Pays Var). This is a smooth, orange- and
peach-flavored wine, with a rich almost oily texture. It’s
rounded with light acidity on the finish. With its weight,
this is a wine for food. The Sorting Table. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
strawberry fruit and crisp yet open acidity. Well balanced and dry, this would make for a good apéritif.
Screwcap. Bieler Communications. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
86
Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Breezette
Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Light, fruity and
balanced, this combines acidity, red fruit and a bright
feel. For drinking over this year. Turquoise Life. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 12.5%
85
Château Routas 2010 White (Vin de Pays
Var). Earthy aromas lead to a palate that is full
bodied, with notes of yeast and spice to go with the
white fruit. It has attractive acidity and a tangy citrusy
finish. Screwcap. USA Wine West. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
86
ROSÉS
RED WINES
89
Domaine Sainte-Marie 2011 VieVité Extraordinaire Rosé (Côtes de Provence).
This is a complex, bone-dry rosé, with red fruit flavor,
tight acidity and a mineral edge. With its weight, it is
food friendly, offering a fine counterpoint to spicy dishes. Turquoise Life. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
Château Routas 2008 Cyrano Syrah (Vin
de Pays Var). Ripe and rich, this is a concentrated, spicy and perfumed Syrah. It is packed with sweet
tannins and juicy blackberry fruit, with a cut of acidity.
Its richness makes it already mature, although it could
age for another few years. USA Wine West. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 14.5%
89
89
Moncigale 2011 Frais et Délicat Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). Full in the mouth, this
food-friendly, minerally and textured wine has red berry
fruits that are balanced by a tangy orange-zest character and a dry aftertaste. Grantham Distributing. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Prestige
Rosé (Côtes de Provence). As pale in color
as is possible for a rosé, this is bright, crisp and fruity.
It has delicious acidity and red apple and citrus flavors,
with a burst of red currant on the finish. Misa Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
88
Moncigale 2011 Frais et Fruité Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). This is bright and
fruity, with light, fragrant and poised red fruit. It has
attractive acidity to balance. Grantham Distributing.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
87
Domaine de la Sanglière 2011 Cuvée
Spéciale Rosé (Côtes de Provence). This
is a soft wine that is full in the mouth, with a raspberry
purée flavor and soft acidity. It’s round with a depth of
red fruit flavor and a warm finish. Misa Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Domaine Sainte-Marie 2011 VieVité Rosé
(Côtes de Provence). A fresh-faced rosé,
with a rose-grey color, this has red fruit acidity and an
attractive, creamy character to go with the crisp finish.
Turquoise Life. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
86
Bieler Père et Fils 2011 Sabine Rosé
(Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Rounded
and soft, this has a touch of vanilla to go with the sweet
Vignerons de Correns 2011 Croix de
Basson Rosé (Côtes de Provence). Fullbodied and ripely fruity, this has attractive strawberry
fruits and a round texture. The acidity adds some freshness. Serge Doré Selections. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
Domaine de la Sanglière 2009 Prestige
(Côtes de Provence). The aromas are warm
and spicy. On the palate, there is a herbal character
along with smooth red plum fruit and a toast note. It
is rich while still preserving a light touch and acidity on
the finish. Misa Imports. —R.V.
Price: $18
abv: 13%
88
Château Routas 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Vin de Pays Var). Cabernet Sauvignon in Provence seems to evoke the herbal wild-thyme
character of the countryside. This wine has weight to
its black fruit flavors, with an edge from its tannins and
acidity. It could age for 2–3 years. Screwcap. USA Wine
West. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.8%
87
Triennes 2008 Saint-August (Vin de Pays
Var). A ripe and spicy blend of Syrah, Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot, this has ripe black fruits that are
laced with firm, dry tannins. There is a herbal character
that gives it an edge. The Sorting Table. —R.V.
Price: $20
abv: 13.5%
85
Domaine de la Sanglière 2010 Cuvée
Spéciale (Côtes de Provence). This is
tastes stalky, with a red fruit flavor. It has acidity along
with a vegetal, herbal character. With taut acidity and
a dry, tannic finish, this is a real barbecue wine. Misa
Imports. —R.V.
Price: $15
abv: 12.5%
SOUTHWEST FRANCE
BERGERAC SEC
90
Château de la Jaubertie 2010 Mirabelle
de la Jaubertie (Bergerac Sec). This woodWineMag.com | 25
aged wine shows equal notes of toasty spice and ripe
fruit. On the palate, it’s full and round, with pear and
apricot flavors giving it richness. This is concentrated
and worth aging for another 2–3 years. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
87
Château de Corbiac 2011 Cyrano de
Bergerac (Bergerac Sec). This herbaceous
wine has a green note, with layers of citrus fruits and an
orange zest texture that lends a bright, fruity character.
Bird Rock Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
85
Château Bélingard 2011 Bergerac Sec.
Smooth and rounded, this has light acidity, with
citrus and pear flavors and a crisp finish. It needs to age
for a year longer to allow its textured character a chance
to smooth out even more. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
85
Château de la Jaubertie 2011 Bergerac
Sec. Crisp and herbaceous, this has a citrus and
green fruit character. Already drinkable, it is bright and
fruity, finishing with a citrus tang. Bird Rock Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
85
Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2011 Bergerac Sec. Aromatic and richly fruity, this has surprising weight that gives the palate a round and smooth
quality. The acidity is there, although it is covered by
the superrich fruit. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
CÔTES DE GASCOGNE
87
Domaine du Tariquet 2011 Classic White
(Côtes de Gascogne). Celebrating 100
years of the domaine this year, Tariquet’s range of wines
begins with this classic white. This has a crisp fruitiness,
with a floral character and flavors of green plum, pear
and a hint of pineapple. It’s delicious and ready to drink.
Screwcap. Robert Kacher Selections. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
87
Domaine Uby 2011 No. 1 Sauvignon
Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). This is a
tropical-fruit-oriented Sauvignon Blanc, with notes of
yellow fruits and spices and a very floral character. With
its textured nature, it could age for another year. Baron
Francois Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
87
Domaine Uby 2011 No. 3 Ugni BlancColombard (Côtes de Gascogne). Fruity
and crisp, this has fresh fruit with a herbal edge. It is
bright with a green fruit character, finishing with a note
of citrus. Baron Francois Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
86
Barton & Guestier 2011 Réserve Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). Bright
and fruity, this has an herbal character that’s balanced
by flavors of pineapple, red apple and a fine tang of
refreshing citrus. Screwcap. Barton & Guestier USA.
Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $8
abv: 12%
85
François Lurton 2011 Fumées Blanches
Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne).
This is a pure and herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc. Crisp,
citrus driven and refreshing, it has a clean character and
a delicious zesty texture that acidity to the fruitiness.
Screwcap. Vintus LLC. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $10
abv: 12%
85
Vignobles Drieux 2011 Villa Dria Colombard-Sauvignon Blanc (Côtes de Gascogne). Spice and seemingly sweet grapefruit flavors
give this light, lively and crisp wine an attractive fruity
character. It dances easily on the palate, finishing with
good tang. Marsalle/Stoler Company. —R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 11.5%
84
Cheval Quancard 2011 Domaine de
Lamothe Colombard-Sauvignon Blanc
(Côtes de Gascogne). Fragrant, fresh and fruity,
this light and bright wine offers an herbal character
to go with its citrus and green apple fruits. It is lively
and crisp—a fine apéritif. Screwcap. Cheval Quancard.
—R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 11.5%
JURANÇON SEC
90
Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Cami Salié (Jurançon Sec). The two great white grapes of
southwest France, Gros Manseg and Petit Manseng, are
blended together to create this crisp, peach- and citrusflavored wine. A spice note adds a more exotic edge,
while the wine finishes with tight, tangy acidity. Pierre
Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
Price: $17
abv: 14%
88
Domaine Nigri 2011 Confluence (Jurançon Sec). With a little addition of the local
grapes Camaralet and Lauzet, this Gros Manseng-dominated wine is aromatic and spicy, packed with greenfruit acidity. The texture has a creamed-pear smoothness to contrast with the acidity. This will be delicious in
a year. Good Company Wines. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
OTHER WHITE WINES
86
Château le Raz 2010 White (Côtes de
Montravel). This is a lightly sweet wine that
has perfumed apricot and orange fruits. Balanced with
acidity, this would be just right as an apéritif. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V.
Price: $16
abv: 12%
85
Château le Raz 2010 White (Montravel).
White currant is the dominant flavor of this herbaceous, tangy wine. It also has notes of has green fruit
and pink grapefruit, with a tight, zingy finish. Demontoux Fine Wines. —R.V.
Price: $16
abv: 13%
ROSÉS
88
Triennes 2011 Rosé (Vin de Pays Var).
This is has flavors of apple and red currant, with
a dry, light touch. The acidity cuts through the palate,
giving it an attractive freshness, with a touch of spice
and a crisp finish. The Sorting Table. —R.V.
Price: $19
abv: 13%
85
Château Plaisance 2011 Rosé (Fronton).
This is a smooth, rounded rosé made mainly
from Négrette. Along with its youthful crispness, it also
has a more creamy side and a crushed strawberry flavor, all lightened by balancing acidity. VOS Selections.
—R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
84
Château Bélingard 2011 Rosé (Bergerac
Rosé). Soft and ripe, this has a red fruit flavor, with richness and a round texture. There is a touch
of spice, with a light hint of acidity in the background.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 12.5%
BERGERAC ROUGE
90
Château Bélingard 2009 Cuvée Blanche
de Bosredon (Côtes de Bergerac). This is
a firm, chunky wine that shows ripe plum fruit and dark
tannins. It has weight and richness that are balanced
by the dense structure. It needs to age for at least four
years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
Price: $20
abv: 13.5%
90
Château Bélingard 2009 Ortus (Côtes
de Bergerac). This wood-aged cuvée from
Château Belingard has great weight and concentration
while also showing dense spice and blackberry flavors.
At this stage, it is showing the wood; but in another year,
it will round out and its dark juicy fruit will come forward. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —R.V.
Price: $25
abv: 13.5%
90
de la Jaubertie (Bergerac). Made using
selections of the best parcels from Jaubertie, this is a
complex and structured wine. Mint and new wood flavors are still dominant, although the fruit shows its black
fruit richness. Age for over four years. Bird Rock Imports. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
Price: $20
abv: 13.5%
88
Château Bélingard 2010 Red (Bergerac).
Structured and firm, this is a solid, chunky wine.
With its black fruit flavors merging with a more dry
and tannic core, it is both dense and ageworthy. Acidity
leavens its rich character. Age for 3–4 years. Deutsch
Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy. —R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
87
de la Jaubertie (Bergerac). This is a firm
and tannic wine that is maturing. It remains dry, with a
definite mineral character to go with the black currant
fruit. It’s not likely to age further. Bird Rock Imports.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
86
Château Bélingard 2010 Cuvée Alliance
(Bergerac). The structure is present as is
the bright black-currant fruit. It has some richness, although it is tempered with acidity and a stalky character. Age for 2–3 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
86
Château de la Jaubertie 2010 Red
(Bergerac). A fruity wine that’s laced with
wood, this is smooth and lightly tannic. The red and
black berry fruits are at the fore, supported by a toast
character and lifting acidity Age for 1–2 years, but the
wine is drinkable now. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
84
Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2009 Red
(Bergerac). This is a rough-edged wine that
has some dry tannins and red berry acidity. It’s light on
the palate with a fresh character. Drink in a year. Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
CAHORS
93
Jean-Luc Baldès 2009 Clos Triguedina
The New Black Wine (Cahors). Made from
grape must that is heated before fermentation, this is
powerful and concentrated, with a rich and very dense
character. Prune, dried fruit and fresh plum notes combine with an intense background of acidity. Age for at
least five years. Eagle Eye Brands. Cellar Selection.
—R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
93
Mas del Périé 2009 La Pièce (Cahors).
The top cuvée from Mas del Périé, this is a concentrated wine, with new wood and black fruit notes.
It’s packed with intense tannins, spice from the wood
aging and a great depth of flavor. This is an impressive
wine that will need to age for at least 5–6 years. Wine
Traditions. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
92
Mas del Périé 2009 Les Acacias (Cahors). Hugely concentrated, powerful and
ageworthy, this has mint and new wood aromas. It has
rich damson and blackberry fruits that push through the
mineral texture and dark tannins, filling the mouth with
its exuberant ripeness. Age for four years. Wine Traditions. Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
91
(Cahors). This is beautifully structured,
packed with black fruits, ripe tannins and balanced acidity. It’s still young, showing the black fruit side of Malbec, but the tannins are already integrating well into the
structure. Age for 4–5 years. European Wine Imports.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
91
Mas del Périé 2010 La Roque (Cahors).
Dense and almost black in color, this is concentrated, with intense tannins and black plum fruit.
It bursts with the rich fruit and acidity, finishing on a
smoky, juicy note. Wine Traditions. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
90
Château d’Ourbenac 2006 Cahors. Powerful and concentrated, this has flavors of black
plum skin and damson, with a juicy layer surrounding
the solid structure. Weighty and dense, it could age for
several more years. CIL US Inc. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
a green, stalky edge that comes from the acidity and
black tannins. Age for two years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
87
Château Plaisance 2010 Red (Fronton).
With a predominance of Négrette in the blend,
this is a warm and spicy wine. It has attractive flavors of
red fruits, herbs and juicy peppered-plums, with some
firm tannins. It could age for 2–3 years. VOS Selections.
—R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
90
87
89
85
Château Vincens 2009 Origine (Cahors).
Dominated by its new wood flavors, this dense
and concentrated wine has the weight, potential blackfruit richness and acidity that suggest a good future. Age
for 3–4 years. Jon-David Headrick Selections. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Château Vincens 2009 L’Instant (Cahors). A mineral-driven wine, this is structured
and firmly tannic. It has weight and concentration along
with wood and blackberry flavors. Very concentrated,
age this for another two years. Jon-David Headrick
Selections. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
89
Petit Clos (Cahors). This is an attractive
wine, with fruit and firm, supporting tannins. It has a
mint flavor and a smooth texture, balanced with damson
fruit. This is ripe and ready to drink over the next year.
Cynthia Hurley Wine Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
89
Mas del Périé 2010 Les Escures (Cahors). Forward and fruity, this is already developing its black plum fruit. The wine has a ripe, juicy and
seemingly sweet character. With its supporting tannins,
this should be ready to drink in 1–2 years. Wine Traditions. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
OTHER RED WINES
91
Lionel Osmin & Cie 2009 Mon Adour
(Madiran). The wine’s name comes from the
Adour River that flows through the Madiran region.
This is dark colored, powerful and spicy, with weight
and richness that should allow this to age for at least
four years. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners.
Cellar Selection. —R.V.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
90
Château le Raz 2005 Red (Montravel).
This is a finely structured, tarry-flavored wine,
with notes of herbs and sweet spices along with mature
fruits. It’s rich and full bodied, with just a touch of pepper. Drink now or age for another year. Demontoux
Fine Wines. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
88
Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Donibane
(Irrouléguy). A blend of Cabernet Franc and
Tannat, this is spicy, smoky and herbal. It is dense, with
Domaine Laurens 2009 Cuvée de Flars
(Marcillac). A blend of 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 80% Fer Servadou, this is the top cuvée from
Domaine Laurens. It has a new wood richness and firm
tannins, with an herbal character that blends into the
blackberry fruit. Age for another year. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Cave du Marmandais 2009 La Vieille Eglise Réserve (Côtes du Marmandais).
With 30% of the local Abouriou grape in the blend,
this is herbal and spicy. It has a round character that is
beefed up by the weight and tannins imparted by the
addition of Malbec. Red fruits dominate, making this
ready to drink. Tru Wines LLC. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
85
Domaine Laurens 2010 Marcillac. This is
herbal, with black currant and thyme flavors
all set in tannins. The Fer Servadou grape gives this a
stalky, wild feeling. Bird Rock Imports. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
84
Rigal 2010 The Original Malbec (Vin de
Pays du Lot). Light and juicy, this has fresh
blackcurrant fruit, with balanced tannins. With its fruit
forward flavor, it’s not a wine for aging. Vinum International . —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
DESSERT WINES
90
Domaine Nigri 2010 Pas de Deux (Jurançon). Beautifully balanced and poised, this
blends light, dancing acidity with rich, sweet botrytis
fruit. It’s fruity, with honey and orange flavors that are a
delight to taste. It could be aged, but it is delicious now.
Good Company Wines. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
89
Domaine Uby 2011 No. 4 (Côtes de Gascogne). Medium sweet in character, this is a
round, ripe wine. Its flavors show apricot, bitter orange
and tangerine that are spiced with just a touch of honey.
Pair this with a pâté or a fruit dessert. Baron Francois
Ltd. —R.V.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $NA
88
Château Bélingard 2009 Monbazillac.
Light and fruity, this has honey, spice and tangerine flavors. It is smooth, rounded and rich; age for
WineMag.com | 27
2–3 years. Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. Best Buy.
—R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
88
Lionel Osmin & Cie 2010 Estela Vintage
(Vin de Liqueur). A fortified blend of Tannat
and Malbec, this is a ripe and sweet, styled like a vintage
Port. It has a powerful structure from the two tannic
grapes in the blend, along with ripe damson fruit and
spice, with acidity on the finish. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 16.5%
Price: $24
87
Domaine de Moulin-Pouzy 2009 Monbazillac. Rich and concentrated, this has flavors
of honey and vanilla wafer. It has a bite of ginger and
orange marmalade. The acidity is subdued, suggesting
a wine that will age quickly and mature in the next year.
Stephen Augustus Imports. —R.V.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
86
Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa Chambre
d’Amour (Jurançon). This is a lightly sweet
wine made from superripe Gros Manseng and Sauvignon Blanc. It has apricot, raisin and pineapple flavors
along with some yeastiness. A fine apéritif wine. Pierre
Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. —R.V.
abv: 10.5%
Price: $12
RHÔNE WHITES
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
90
Alain Jaume et Fils 2009 Domaine Grand
Veneur (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This fullbodied blend of 60% Clairette and 40% Roussanne is
probably best consumed over the next several months.
The apple and tangerine aromas and flavors are inviting,
and there’s a minerally sensation of wet stones underneath. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $47
89
Domaine Font de Michelle 2009 Châteauneuf-du-Pape. This is a broad, mouthcoating blend of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Clairette
and Bourboulenc. Apricot, tangerine and honey notes
dominate the palate, finishing long and just a bit warm.
Opt for drinking it over the next 6–9 months. Robert
Kacher Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
86
Vignobles La Coterie 2007 Châteauneufdu-Pape. This 2007 is nearing the end of its
shelf life, but it still features a round, ample mouthfeel
and pleasant honey, peach and citrus flavors. Drink up.
Cordon Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $36
84
Veneur La Fontaine (Châteauneuf-duPape). A rare slip up from the talented Jaume family,
this 100% Roussanne is swimming in smoky, toasty oak,
with the fruit currently hidden. You could gamble on it
bouncing back in 5–6 years, or just wait for the betterbalanced 2010. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $70
CÔTES DU RHÔNE
91
E. Guigal 2010 Côtes du Rhône. More than
half of the blend is Viognier, which no doubt accounts for its dramatic aromas and flavors of exotic tropical fruit, only just reined in by more citrusy notes. It’s
full bodied and round in the mouth without being at all
flabby, with a crisp, clean, lingering finish. Drink it over
the next year. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
90
Veneur Blanc de Viognier (Côtes du
Rhône). Viognier from the Southern Rhône can often be overripe and heavy, but while this offering from
Grand Veneur is full bodied and richly textured, it remains reasonably fresh. Apricot, pineapple and passion fruit flavors mingle easily on the palate, finishing
clean and long. Drink now. Kysela Père et Fils. Editors’
Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
90
André Brunel 2010 Domaine de la Becassonne (Côtes du Rhône). This wine delivers all you could want from a Southern Rhône white,
from its ample weight in the mouth to its deft combination of melon, citrus and wet stone. Finishes long and
mouthwatering. Drink over the next 6–9 months. Robert Kacher Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
89
Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Les Laurelles
(Côtes du Rhône). Despite containing 50%
Viognier, this is a restrained Côtes du Rhône white,
with subtle citrus and wet stone shadings and a refined,
medium-weight mouthfeel. It finishes well, with plenty
of length and hints of citrus and honey. Drink it over the
next year or two. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
87
Ogier 2010 Heritages Blanc (Côtes du
Rhône). A surprisingly strong effort, Ogier’s
Heritage Blanc shows some intriguing notes of orange
and mushroom on the nose, then follows up with plenty
of heft on the palate and a long, citrusy finish. Drink it
over the next several months. Vinum International. Best
Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
87
Perrin & Fils 2010 Réserve (Côtes du
Rhône). The Perrin family’s line of négociant
wines includes this reliable white, which features melon
and pineapple aromas and flavors, medium body and a
clean, reasonably crisp finish. Drink it over the next six
months. Vineyard Brands. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
86
Andrieux & Fils 2010 Cuvée Marie
Vieilles Vignes (Côtes du Rhône). This
full-bodied blend of Viognier, Clairette and Grenache
Blanc is a pretty typical white from the Southern
Rhône. It’s largely neutral in aroma and flavor save for
a modest melon note, with a weighty mouthfeel. Drink
soon. Vinum Distribution Inc. —J.C.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
OTHER WHITE WINES
90
Les Vins de Vienne 2010 Viognier (Vin de
Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes). A terrific value in French Viognier, this “simple” Vin de Pays
displays full-on floral aromas of honeysuckle and rose
pollen, fleshed out on the palate by hints of apricot and
pineapple. It’s medium to full in body, with a slightly
creamy texture and a dusting of tannin and white pepper on the finish. Drink it over the next year or so.
Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
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87
RHÔNE REDS
LePlan-Vermeersch 2010 LePlan Classic (Côtes du Rhône). This is fresh and citrusy, with melony fruit and ample weight on the palate
but also enough backbone to keep the flavors taut and
focused. Drink it over the next year or so. Hand Picked
Selections. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
Alain Jaume et Fils 2010 Réserve Grand
Veneur (Côtes du Rhône). A blend of 50%
Roussanne, 40% Viognier and 10% Clairette, this is a
full-bodied Southern Rhône that somehow manages
to retain aromas of wet stone and crisp, zesty flavors of
melon and pear. Drink it over the next several months.
Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Ferraton Pere et Fils 2010 Samorëns
(Côtes du Rhône). The Grenache Blanc
(60%) gives this wine its delicate aromas of white flowers, while the Clairette (40%) provides backbone and
pineapple fruit. Drink this relatively soft, mouthfilling
white over the next few months. Baron Francois Ltd.
—J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Secret de
Famille Viognier (Vin de Pays des Portes
de Méditerranée). This is a pleasantly quaffable Viognier, with restrained apricot and melon aromas and flavors. It’s medium bodied, without much texture, but
a clean, refreshing finish. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE
93
Veneur Les Origines (Châteauneuf-duPape). Loaded with black cherry and plum fruit, this
is an amply endowed Châteauneuf-du-Pape that avoids
excess. The fruit flavors remain fresh and vibrant, the
oaking is understated and the wine’s size is ably supported by soft tannins and just-sufficient acidity. Drink
now–2020. Kysela Père et Fils. —J.C.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $70
92
Veneur (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Even
Grand Veneur’s traditional cuvée shines in 2009, offering up notions of black cherries and chocolate liqueur.
It’s full bodied and richly textured, with a long, velvety
finish. Simply put, it’s plush and delicious, with no need
to age it any further. Drink now–2020. Kysela Père et
Fils. —J.C.
Price: $53
abv: 15.5%
91
Les Trois Couronnes 2010 Châteauneufdu-Pape. This blend of 60% Grenache, 20%
Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre delivers juicy, almost gulpable
fruit, supported by a loose spine of soft tannins. Purple
raspberry and black cherry flavors linger on the supple
finish. Drink now–2018. The Other Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
Price: $35
abv: 14%
91
M. Chapoutier 2009 Le Bernardine (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Chapoutier has fashioned
a full-bodied, creamy-textured 2009 Le Bernardine,
with dark, plummy fruit and a hint of chocolate liqueur
that ably reflect the warm vintage. Yet despite all of the
lushness, the wine doesn’t come across as heavy or overdone, making it attractive for early drinking. Try now–
2018. Terlato Wines International. —J.C.
Price: $56
abv: 14.5%
91
Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Lieu-Dit Pignan
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This is a wine that
teeters on the edge between superripeness and overripeness. At one moment its fruit comes across as slightly herbal and raspberry-like, while the next it can seem
slightly raisined, with a hint of nail polish. It’s round
and creamy in texture, with a long finish framed in elegant, soft tannins. Drink now–2018. Massanois Imports.
—J.C.
Price: $74
abv: 14.5%
90
Domaine de Nalys 2009 Réserve (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Atypical for the appellation in that it’s 80% Syrah, this is a dark-fruited, slightly
pruny Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Chocolate and licorice
notes add complexity to this full-bodied, firmly structured wine. With its long, chewy finish, consider deferring consumption until at least 2014. Frank-Lin International. —J.C.
Price: $68
abv: 14.5%
90
Kirkland Signature 2010 Cuvée de Nalys
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). For full review see
page 9. Editors’ Choice.
Price: $20
abv: 14.5%
90
Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Châteauneuf-duPape. This is a silky-textured, medium-bodied
Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with lifted red-berry fruit and
grace notes of thyme blossom and bay leaf. It’s a truly
elegant style, with a supple, mouth-watering finish.
Drink now–2018. Massanois Imports. —J.C.
Price: $51
abv: 14.5%
90
Skalli 2009 La Tiare du Pape (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Shows some oak aging
in its aromas of cedar, caramel and baking spices, but
also in the velvety mouthfeel and slightly drying finish.
Thankfully, there are just enough ripe cherries to carry
the freight, so while purists may be dismayed, plenty
more will enjoy the wine’s mix of fruit and oak. Drink
now–2018. Skalli Family Wines. —J.C.
Price: $40
abv: 14%
89
nas, with bold, clean blueberry fruit front and center,
anchored by a framework of cedar and vanilla. This fullbodied, lush, creamy expression of Northern Rhône
Syrah should drink well through 2025. Domaine Select
Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
Price: $50
abv: 14%
Delas Frères 2009 Haute Pierre (Châteauneuf-du-Pape). At only 10% Syrah, this
is quite different in composition from most of Delas’s
wines. The rest is Grenache, and in 2009 the result is
slightly pruny, with touches of coffee, chocolate and
Christmas spice. It’s full bodied and creamy in texture
without being soft, thanks to the crisp acids and silky
tannins on the finish. Drink it over the next few years.
Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —J.C.
Price: $46
abv: 15%
Cave de Tain 2009 Areñes Sauvages
(Cornas). As in many 2009s from the Northern Rhône, the Syrah fruit is superripe. Add in aging
in 100% new oak barrels and the result is a big, richly
tannic wine redolent of vanilla, cedar and blackberries.
Drink now–2025. Cognac One, LLC. —J.C.
Price: $50
abv: 13.5%
89
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88
CÔTE RÔTIE
Gabriel Meffre 2009 Saint-Théodoric
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). A full-bodied wine
that shows some warm-vintage effects in its aromas and
flavors of stewed prunes, mocha, leather and chocolate.
It’s mouthfilling and a bit warm on the finish. Drink
now–2017. Gabriel Meffre America. —J.C.
Price: $36
abv: 14%
André Brunel 2009 Châteauneuf-duPape. Despite some tough tannins on the finish, this is an intriguingly complex wine that may prove
even better than this rating suggests. It starts with a
garrigue note and a hint of tapenade, then adds bright
cherry fruit and plenty of dusty tannins. Drink 2014–
2020. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C.
Price: $45
abv: 14%
87
Domaine de Nalys 2009 Châteauneuf-duPape. This is an immediately accessible Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with moderately concentrated red
fruit, leather and clove notes, crisp acids and just a hint
of supple tannin on the finish. Drink it over the next several years. Frank-Lin International. —J.C.
Price: $39
abv: 14.5%
87
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Otéliées
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). This négociant
based in the Northern Rhône has turned out a meaty,
savory Châteauneuf-du-Pape. It’s full bodied and firmly
structured, with plenty of clove, leather and peppered
beef. Drink 2014–2020. Domaine Select Wine Estates.
—J.C.
Price: $60
abv: 14%
86
Domaine Patrice Magni 2009 Sensation
(Châteauneuf-du-Pape). Dominated by
Grenache, Magni’s 2009 Sensation displays distinctive
notes of pie cherry, stewed rhubarb, watermelon and
cracked pepper. Medium to full in the mouth, it boasts
exceptionally silky tannins. Tart and peppery on the finish but not at all unpleasant. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C.
Price: $50
abv: 15%
91
Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 Terres Brulées
Syrah (Cornas). An excellent introduction to
the wines of Cornas, this is a gently structured example,
but one that shows ample complexity. Coffee, herb and
green olive notes intertwine with a smoky, bacon-like
element. An espresso note and soft tannins linger on the
finish. Drink now–2020. Palm Bay International. —J.C.
Price: $48
abv: 13.5%
93
E. Guigal 2008 Château d’Ampuis (Côte
Rôtie). In this difficult vintage, Guigal’s Château Ampuis bottling shines. The kinky nose features
exotic notes of celery seed, cracked pepper, hickory
smoke and mixed berries, while in the mouth the wine
shows ample fullness and intensity without losing any of
the silky character that makes Côte Rôtie special. Drink
now–2020. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
Price: $160
abv: 13.5%
90
E. Guigal 2008 Brune et Blonde (Côte Rôtie). Because of the extended elevage carried
out at Guigal, the company’s releases are always behind
the market as a whole. Despite a tough vintage, this is an
elegant, silky-textured wine, with complex notes of green
olive, raspberry and cracked pepper. Vintus LLC. —J.C.
Price: $75
abv: 13.5%
CÔTES DU RHÔNE
91
Domaine Patrice Magni 2010 La Cueillette (Côtes du Rhône). A terrific value,
Magni’s Côtes du Rhône comes from an area just outside Châteauneuf-du-Pape’s Coudoulet lieu dit. The
blend of 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah is full bodied
and richly textured, with vibrant fruit flavors of dark
berries and savory overtones. Its long, velvety finish
suggests drinking now and over the next 5–8 years.
Domaine Select Wine Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
Price: $20
abv: 15%
91
Jean-Luc Colombo 2009 La Louvée Syrah (Cornas). For full review see page 5.
Price: $84
abv: 14%
Sélection Laurence Féraud 2011 Côtes
du Rhône. This super bargain reflects the
charm of the 2011 vintage in its supple tannins and forward fruit. It’s lush and creamy textured, with expressive notes of kirsch, spice and cocoa. Drink now–2017.
Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
Price: $16
abv: 13.5%
93
90
CORNAS
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Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Barcillants
(Cornas). This seems awfully civilized for Cor-
CDR 2010 Côtes du Rhône. A mediumbodied blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan,
WineMag.com | 29
this wine offers a supple feel and plenty of red berry and
cherry fruit, with just enough spice to give it additional
interest. Drink it over the next year or two. Domaine
Select Wine Estates. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
90
Cellier des Chartreux 2010 Chevalier
d’Anthelme (Côtes du Rhône). This is an
impressive effort from a co-op in the Gard. Black olive,
coffee and blackberry notes suggest a healthy proportion of Syrah in the blend. It’s a bit stern at first, but
ends on a long, richly tannic note. Holiday Beverage.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
90
La Font du Vent 2009 Les Promesses
(Côtes du Rhône). From the Gonnets of
Font de Michelle in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, this is the
family’s entry-level wine from an estate in the southern
part of the Côtes du Rhône. The medium-bodied raspberry fruit is accented by hints of cracked pepper, dried
spices and leather. It’s supple enough to drink now and
over the next 4–5 years. Robert Kacher Selections. Best
Buy. —J.C.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
90
Tardieu-Laurent 2009 Guy Louis (Côtes
du Rhône). More Tardieu-Laurent than Côtes
du Rhône, with hallmark exotic, nearly tropical notes
suggestive of toasted coconut, vanilla and apricot. It’s
full bodied and plush in texture, with a long, cedary and
velvety finish. Drink it over the next few years. Wilson
Daniels Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
89
Ogier 2010 Heritages (Côtes du Rhône).
A surprisingly strong effort from Ogier, this
is marked by dark, earthy notes of espresso, black olives and blackberries. Drink this full-bodied, slightly
chewy wine over the next few years. Imported by Classic Wines of California and Vinum International. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
87
Les Trois Couronnes 2011 Côtes du
Rhône. Offering uncomplicated, easy drinking, this Grenache-Syrah blend is lush and immediately
accessible, displaying the charm of the 2011 vintage.
Drink it over the next year or two for its gulpable cherry
and chocolate flavors. The Other Wine & Spirits. Best
Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
86
André Brunel 2009 Côtes du Rhône. A
slightly chunky and inelegant Côtes du Rhône,
this wine nevertheless delivers satisfying and assertive
notes of black olive, espresso and dark chocolate. Drink
it over the next few years. Robert Kacher Selections.
—J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
86
Les Vignerons d’Estezargues 2010 Terre
de Mistral (Côtes du Rhône). This intriguing blend of 50% Grenache and 50% Carignan combines crisp red-fruit flavors and lush, creamy tannins.
There’s a slightly herbal tinge as well. Drink it over the
next year or two. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
86
Les Vignobles Foncalieu 2009 Bastide de
Beauvert (Côtes du Rhône). This smooth,
easygoing blend of 70% Grenache and 30% Syrah is a
pleasant surprise, offering up bright raspberry fruit and
a hint of chocolaty richness. Drink it over the next year
or so. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
86
Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Parallèle 45
(Côtes du Rhône). This blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah is atypically big and burly in 2009,
showing some intense coffee and charcoal notes layered
over black cherry fruit. Dusty tannins mark the finish,
so serve it alongside fatty meats where the tannins will
work in the wine’s favor. Frederick Wildman & Sons,
Ltd. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
86
Skalli 2009 Les Rabassières (Côtes du
Rhône). A silky, medium-bodied selection, this
features elegant notes of cherries, fine leather and baking spices. It’s a soft, easy-to-drink wine for immediate
consumption. Skalli Family Wines. —J.C.
Price: $15
abv: 13.5%
85
Château du Trignon 2009 Côtes du
Rhône. Tart and slightly herbal, with crisp red
fruit that never really fills out on the palate. It’s pleasant enough for an everyday quaff, just not particularly
memorable. David Milligan Selections. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
eral manager at M. Chapoutier, also has his own label,
which includes this very attractive wine from Sign
argues, the southernmost villages appellation of the
Côte du Rhône. It’s full bodied and ripe without being
flabby or unstructured, delivering blueberry and blackberry fruit, peppery spice and a long finish that reverberates with fruit and an espresso note. Massanois Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
90
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 La Tine Visan
(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Visan is a village that can produce some ageworthy wines, and this
looks to be in that same mold, with firm tannins framing
blackberry and black olive flavors. Give it another year
or two, then drink it over the next 5–6. Domaine Select
Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
90
Sélection Laurence Féraud 2009 Séguret
(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Laurence
Féraud’s selections (her family owns Domaine de Pégaü in Châteauneuf-du-Pape) for her négociant line,
like this Séguret, often represent excellent values. This
is a full-bodied, velvety wine filled with notes of kirsch
and Mexican chocolate. The finish is warm and comforting, and like a thick blanket, it would be a welcome sight
this winter. Hand Picked Selections. Editors’ Choice.
—J.C.
Price: $22
abv: 13.5%
85
89
83
89
Domaine du Gros Pata 2009 Cuvée Sabine (Côtes du Rhône). This wine has wonderfully perfumed aromas of cherries and raspberries,
but seemingly stops there. The flavors are enjoyable but
simple and while the mouthfeel is ample, the finish falls
off a bit. P.R. Grisley Company. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
Chateau Saint Nabor 2010 Tradition
(Côtes du Rhône). This has a deeply flushed,
burgundy core. The reluctant nose shows graphite,
game and pepper, with boysenberry and blackberry
joining underbrush and cedar on the palate. The very
average fruit concentration shows light dilution and
leads to a short finish. Moderately drying tannins and
lively acidity frame the supple body and will allow it to
hold for at least two years though the wine will not likely
evolve to benefit. Valley View Wine Sales. —W.E.
Price: $NA
abv: 13.5%
CÔTES DU RHÔNE
VILLAGES
91
LePlan-Vermeersch 2009 GT-G Grand
Terroir Grenache (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This wine starts off with vanilla, cinnamon and
dark cherry notes on the nose, with the oak-derived elements marrying nicely with the Grenache fruit. It’s full
bodied, liquorous and lush, with a long, velvety finish.
Probably best over the next 4–5 years. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $37
91
Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Signargues
(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Morel, the gen-
Boutinot 2009 La Côte Sauvage Cairanne
(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Cairanne is said
to be in line to become the Rhône’s next cru, and this
wine is a solid example. It artfully marries fruit and
spice in a medium-bodied wine with suple tannins and
suprisingly crisp acids. Drink now–2018. Regal Wine
Imports Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $26
Laudun Chusclan 2010 Clos de Taman
(Côtes du Rhône Villages). This has an impenetrable black core with fuschia highlights. The vibrant, mineral-driven Old World nose has asphalt, charcoal and charred wood notes leading the way. Black
currant, rhubarb, lingonberry and linden leaf carry the
flavors. The dense, concentrated palate is taut—and
slightly awkward—with marked acidity, mild viscosity
and firm tannins. The prolonged finish is multidimensional and complex. This is a cuvée to follow as it shows
plenty of potential. Drink now and for the next three
years. —W.E.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
André Brunel 2009 Cuvée Sabrine (Côtes
du Rhône Villages). Dark and intense, with
notes of roasted meat, plum and black olive that give
way to an espresso note and chalky tannins on the finish.
Pretty stern stuff, which just means you’ll want to give it
another year or two before drinking it over the next 5–6
years. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
88
La Font du Vent 2009 Notre Passion Signargues (Côtes du Rhône Villages). This
is atypically medium bodied for the warm 2009 vintage,
with an admirable degree of lightness and drinkability.
Tart berry fruit is accented by rose hips and orange zest,
then finishes crisp and lingering. Drink it over the next
several years. Robert Kacher Selections. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
88
LePlan-Vermeersch 2009 GT-S Grand
Terroir Syrah (Côtes du Rhône Villages).
Full bodied and thickly textured, this Southern Rhône
Syrah combines cedar and vanilla notes from oak aging with notes of brandied cherries and a bit of asphalt.
It’s long on the finish, with a plush feel, then ends on a
slightly bitter note. Hand Picked Selections. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
88
Perrin & Fils 2009 L’Andéol Rasteau
(Côtes du Rhône Villages). Starts with
raspberry and cherry aromas and a dusty, earthy note
that adds complexity and character. You can sense the
warmth of the vintage in the glass, with slightly raisined
notes that come through on the palate alongside the
supple tannins. Drink it over the next few years. Vineyard Brands. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
86
Les Vignobles Foncalieu 2009 La Réserve
du Crouzau St. Gervais (Côtes du Rhône
Villages). A solid, medium-bodied effort, this Saint
Gervais boasts fine complexity on the nose, where it
mixes berries with smoke and olive before turning darker on the palate, finally ending with hints of bitter chocolate and espresso. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
textured, with a long, layered finish. Drink now–2020.
Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C.
Price: $40
abv: 13.5%
91
Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de
Roure (Crozes-Hermitage). If the oak integrates better and recedes more into the fruit than I suspect, this rating will look conservative. Right now, oak is
front and center, arrayed in ranks of toasted cedar and
vanilla. It’s full bodied and chewy in texture, with a long,
plushly oaky finish. Try after 2015. Frederick Wildman
& Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
Price: $80
abv: 14%
90
Vidal-Fleury 2009 Crozes-Hermitage. This
is nicely floral on the nose, with black cherry
fruit accented by hints of thyme and bay leaf, while the
flavors are a harmonious mélange of herb, spice and ripe
fruit. It’s full bodied and slightly chewy at first, turning
more velvety on the finish. Drink now–2017. Deutsch
Family Wine & Spirits. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
Price: $23
abv: 13%
89
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Crozes-Hermitage. This supple, medium-bodied wine packs
in many of the notes that make Syrah from the Northern
Rhône so compelling: coffee, tar, leather, black olive,
chocolate and roasted meat, all backed by raspberrycherry fruit. Enjoy the ride over the next several years.
Price: $26
abv: 13%
87
Perrin & Fils 2009 La Gille (Gigondas). An
odd, menthol note runs through this wine, giving the bright cherry fruit a slightly medicinal edge. It’s
slightly creamy in texture, with a hint of chocolate on
the warm finish. Vineyard Brands. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
86
Pierre Henri Morel 2009 Gigondas. A
bulky wine with an ample mix of cherry and
chocolate flavors, this Gigondas is a big, fairly rich
mouthful but is slightly lacking for nuance. Give it another year or two to see if more develops. Massanois
Imports. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
HERMITAGE
93
Cave de Tain 2009 Gambert de Loche
(Hermitage). For full review see page 5.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
92
E. Guigal 2006 Hermitage. This is the current release from Guigal, which makes it one
of the few Hermitages on store shelves that’s ready to
drink. It’s medium to full in weight, chunky and assertive, but not overly concentrated or tannic. Instead, it
delivers beefy notes of coffee, black olive and spice,
backed by hints of raspberries and cedar. Vintus LLC.
—J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $90
87
SAINT-JOSEPH
Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Crozes-Hermitage. For full review see page 6. Editors’
Choice.
abv: 13%
Price: $36
Cave de Tain 2009 Fine Fleur de Crozes
(Crozes-Hermitage). Shows pleasant Northern Rhône Syrah notes of raspberry and cherry, even
if it’s not particularly textured or complex. The fruit is
crisp and forward, with sufficient tannins to ably partner burgers or steaks. Drink it over the next few years.
Cognac One, LLC. —J.C.
Price: $22
abv: 12.5%
92
GIGONDAS
89
CROZES-HERMITAGE
92
Paul Jaboulet Aîné 2009 Domaine de
Thalabert (Crozes-Hermitage). Despite
this wine’s thick veneer of toasty, vanilla-scented oak, it
has plenty of underlying fruit, powerful enough to handle the wood. It’s full bodied, dense and richly textured,
with a long, velvety finish redolent of blackberries and
cedar. Approachable now, but should easily age through
2025. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.C.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
91
Dauvergne & Ranvier 2009 Vin Rare
(Crozes-Hermitage). This selection shows
pure black-cherry fruit on the nose, then it folds in hints
of flowers, spices, chocolate and coffee on the palate.
It’s full bodied and creamy in texture without being
heavy, then finishes long. Ready to drink, but should
easily hold another 5–6 years. The Sorting Table. —J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $30
91
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Palignons
(Crozes-Hermitage). This is Les Vins de
Vienne’s upscale Crozes, and it’s very successful in 2009,
featuring bold, concentrated blackberry fruit supported
by hints of vanilla and toast. It’s full bodied and richly
90
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Pimpignoles (Gigondas). This wine has plenty to
offer, from brightly fruity and peppery aromas to flavors
of cherry, leather amd spice. The tannins are silky in texture, and the lengthy finish develops hints of cocoa and
clove. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C.
Price: $40
abv: 15%
89
M. Chapoutier 2010 Gigondas. Full bodied
and densely packed, this is a solid, cellar-worthy
Gigondas that needs time to unfold. Right now, the aromas are slightly reticent, the chocolate and plum notes
only slowly unfurling on the palate. Try 2014–2020. Terlato Wines International. —J.C.
Price: $50
abv: 14%
88
Les Trois Couronnes 2010 Gigondas. A
fresh, appealing example of Gigondas, with
mouth-watering cherry fruit that’s blissfully uncomplicated yet satisfying for its verve and intensity. A hint of
cocoa sneaks in on the finish. Drink it over the next few
years. The Other Wine & Spirits. —J.C.
Price: $23
abv: 14%
90
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Les Archevêques
(Saint-Joseph). This négociant’s top cuvée of
Saint-Joseph has vibrant mixed berry notes that pick up
lovely hints of licorice and garrigue, then turn chocolaty and velvety on the finish. Nicely done all the way
around, with a drinking window extending from now
through 2017. Domaine Select Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $42
La Ferme des Sept Lunes 2009 SaintJoseph. A very drinkable Saint-Joseph, with
bouncy, bright berry character and hints of smoke and
asphalt. It’s medium bodied and crisp, with only a touch
of silky-textured tannin. Domaine Select Wine Estates.
—J.C.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $50
88
Maison Nicolas Perrin 2009 Saint-Joseph.
This négociant bottling delivers reasonably
fresh fruit and plenty of ripe raspberry flavor. It’s medium to full in body, with supple tannins that make it
easy to drink now. Vineyard Brands. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $36
86
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 L’Arzelle (SaintJoseph). A solid example of Saint-Joseph, with
dark notes of asphalt and black olive playing alongside
modest berry flavors. It’s medium bodied and smooth in
texture, with a mouth-watering finish. Domaine Select
Wine Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
85
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Saint-Joseph.
Round and silky, this is a medium-bodied SaintWineMag.com | 31
Joseph intended for early enjoyment. Blackberry and
dusty earth shadings mingle easily on the palate, fading
just a bit quickly on the finish. Domaine Select Wine
Estates. —J.C.
abv: 13%
Price: $28
mocha and olivaceous components reminiscent of the
Northern Rhône. It’s full bodied, warm and velvety,
with a long finish filled with chocolaty richness. Ready
to drink. Margerum Wine Co. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $100
VACQUEYRAS
91
90
Vignobles La Coterie 2010 Vacqueyras.
Full-bodied and muscular without being overblown, this wine showcases slightly lifted, plummy fruit,
accented by licorice and black pepper. It’s a bit warm on
the finish but spicy and nuanced as well. Drink now–
2020. Cordon Selections. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $20
89
Gabriel Meffre 2009 Saint-Barthélémy
(Vacqueyras). For a Vacqueyras, this is rather
charming and supple, with slightly jammy black-cherry notes balanced by mouth-watering acidity. Hints of
leather and anise add a welcome note of complexity.
Drink it over the next few years. Gabriel Meffre America. —J.C.
Price: $22
abv: 14%
88
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 La Sillote (Vacqueyras). Combine prune, leather and spice
notes with firm tannins and the result is a slightly rustic,
old-school expression of Vacqueyras. It’s concentrated
and characterful, with up to a decade of aging potential.
abv: 15%
Price: $37
87
Andrieux & Fils 2010 Cuvée André Vieilles Vignes (Vacqueyras). Buoyed by pleasant black-plum fruit and healthy doses of licorice and
peppery spice, this sturdy, medium-bodied wine may
lack a little charm but ticks all the other boxes, ending
long and balanced. Drink now–2018. Vinum Distribution Inc. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $21
86
Les Trois Couronnes 2010 (Vacqueyras).
Modest leather, spice and black plum notes lead
into a wine that’s plump and dark fruited, not especially
complex, but mouthfilling. The acids seem a touch low,
so consume this soft, charming wine over the next few
years. The Other Wine & Spirits. —J.C.
Price: $18
abv: 14%
OTHER RED WINES
93
Chêne Bleu 2006 Abélard (Vin de Pays de
Vaucluse). From a new winery that’s bottleaging its wines prior to release, this is a blend of 80%
Grenache and 20% Syrah. Because the vineyards
straddle multiple appellations, it carries a modest Vin
de Pays de Vaucluse label, but this is serious stuff. It’s
dense and creamy in texture, with a long, velvety finish and flavors of chocolate, black olive and dark plum.
Drink now–2020. Margerum Wine Co. —J.C.
abv: 15%
Price: $100
91
Chêne Bleu 2006 Héloïse (Vin de Pays
de Vaucluse). The blend of this Chêne Bleu
wine is 65% Syrah, 30% Grenache and 5% Viognier,
and with its elevated proportion of Syrah come bacony,
Guillaume Gros 2009 El Niño Loco (Vin
de Pays de la Méditerranée). The blend is
70% Syrah, 20% Grenache and 10% Carignan, and in
2009 the grapes were as ripe as they could be. Mocha
and chocolate notes pick up a touch of prune. With its
superripe fruit, ample weight, lush texture and warm
finish, there are valid concerns about its ageability, but
this offers hedonistic drinking for an affordable price.
Sherbrooke Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.C.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
89
Bourgeois Family 2009 Elicio Merlot-Grenache (Vin de Pays de la Méditerranée).
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
OTHER FRANCE
LANGUEDOC WHITES
90
Domaine de Malavieille 2010 Charmille
(Pays d’Oc). This is straw colored with a
bright hue. Passion fruit, guava, honey, hazelnut and
glue surface on the moderately aromatic nose. Crisp despite its full-bodied palate, the wine’s alcohol is generous but well-balanced. The attack is resolutely dry and
creates a pleasant and lightly rugged texture across the
midpalate. The medium finish has well-concentrated
fruit and a hazelnut undertone, suggesting a fine effort.
Hand Picked Selections. —W.E.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
88
Les Caves Richemer 2011 Terre et Mer
Terret Blanc (Vin de Pays des Côtes de
Thau). The restrained nose shows a faint floral character accompanied by notes of lemon cream and mineral.
The palate hesitantly opens up a bit more with flavors
of peach skin, lemon icebox pie and whipping cream.
Decidedly medium in weight, this has medium-concentrated fruit and a rather linear palate. The moderate,
refreshing acidity leads to a fairly short finish. Drink this
now and for two years, as it should be appreciated while
still youthful. AHD Vintners. —W.E.
Price: $NA
abv: 12%
84
Vignobles Garrigae 2010 Seigneurie de
Peyrat Tradition Chardonnay-Viognier (Pays d’Oc). Vanilla and toasted almond aromas
evolve into a scent of tarte tatin. Full bodied, with warm
alcohol, this shows medium fruit concentration. The
acidity is borderline in its balance, leaning to flabiness.
The tactile heat on the medium finish is distracting. Palateur Imports. —W.E.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
OTHER WHITE WINES
90
Les Vins de Vienne 2009 Taburnum Viognier (Vin de France). This full-bodied, lushly textured wine is 100% Viognier. Despite being aged
nearly a year and a half in French oak, it retains a peppery aroma of nasturtium blossom along with toast and
honey notes. Toasted nuts figure prominently on the
palate, with just enough fruit weight to support the oak,
while a touch of honey lingers on the finish. Drink now.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $65
86
Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa Grand Cap
(Vin de France). Made from a typical Gascon
blend of Colombard, Sauvignon Blanc and Gros Manseng, this zesty wine is dry, herbaceous, fresh and crisp.
Its full of citrus and green apple fruits, with a tangy finish. Screwcap. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
85
Guy Saget 2011 La Petite Perrière Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de France). This is refreshing, with herbaceous hints as well as a warm yellow-fruit
character. It’s ripe, full of youthful fruitiness and ready
to drink. Screwcap. Pasternak Wine Imports. —R.V.
Price: $13
abv: 12.5%
85
L. Tramier et Fils 2011 Bourricot Chardonnay (Vin de France). Fresh and fruity
with creamy green and white fruits, this is a soft, ready
to drink Chardonnay. Attractively fruity, the acidity finely cuts through the wine. Luxe Vintages. —R.V.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
ROSÉS
86
L. Tramier et Fils NV Bourricot Rosé (Vin
de France). For full review see page 12. Best
Buy.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
85
Lionel Osmin & Cie 2011 Villa La Vie en
Rosé (Vin de France). This is a crisply fruity
dry rosé from the vineyards of Fronton. It has raspberry
and citrus flavors and refreshing acidity. The finish is
light and fresh. Pierre Courdurie Selections/Wine Partners. Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
LANGUEDOC REDS
93
Prieuré St. Jean de Bébian 2008 Coteaux
du Languedoc. Open and primal on nose, this
has notes of game, roasted meat, lead pencil, green bell
pepper and blackberry. It offers succulent fruit on the
midpalate, accompanied by generous viscosity and oak.
The wine sits broadly across the palate with significant
heft, chewy tannins and moderate acidity. The harmony
of flavors and structure lingers onto the lengthy finish.
Wine Worldwide. —W.E.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
91
Vignobles
Sarrail
2011
Domaine
L’Estagnère (Vin de Pays Cité de Carcassonne). Aromas of mulberry, boysenberry, underbrush
and dried lavendar lead to notes of black currant, dried
herb and crushed granite on the palate. It possesses a
smooth mouthfeel with succulent glycerol, balancing
acidity and lightly grainy tannins. Moderate in length,
with savory and mineral qualities lingering, this will
evolve over the next 2–3 years and may hold longer. JF
Wine Imports. —W.E.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
90
Château Saint Baulery 2010 Saint-Chinian. The nose is loaded with mineral, pencil lead
and blackberry notes. Generously juicy on the palate,
this exudes youthful fruit backed by terroir-influenced
notes. The tannins are structured and lightly sinewy yet
soft all at once. The acidity is fresh, carrying the wellconcentrated flavors of this chunky wine into a medium
finish. This is a decidedly Old World in style, with evident fruit purity and provenance of place. Drink now
and for three more years. Hand Picked Selections.
—W.E.
Price: $14
abv: 14%
90
Domaine Modat 2009 Sans Plus Attendre (Côtes du Roussillon Villages Caramany). This has a somewhat high-toned and mineraldriven nose, offering notes of roasted squab and pheasant, sage and mocha ice cream. Spirituous alcohol and
opulent fruit are the focus of the highly extracted palate.
The acidity is present but relegated to the background,
while the rather supple, mouth-coating tannins provide most of the wine’s structure. The new oak is subtle.
Drink now and for four more years. Romano Brands.
—W.E.
Price: $NA
abv: 14.5%
89
Domain La Tour Penedesses 2010 Les
Volcans (Coteaux du Languedoc-Pézenas). The youthful nose is primed with black currant,
blueberry, earth and licorice. Generous and supple
on the palate with restrained acidity, the tannins show
some sinew, yet they are well-integrated. It’s fullbodied,
with slightly spirituous alcohol, however, the excellent
concentration on the palate can support this. Overall,
the wine is well knit, including its inflections of baked
cobbler and vanilla bean from the oak aging. Drink now
and for five more years. Dionysos Imports Inc. —W.E.
Price: $NA
abv: 14.5%
88
of evolution, with aromas of mulberry, black cherry and
black raspberry also evident. Full bodied with balanced
alcohol and lightly dusty tannins, the wine overcompensates in structure with its lightly tart acidity. Already
evolving, this will drink now and up to 2–3 years longer.
Laurel Importers. —W.E.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
83
Les Celliers Jean d’Alibert 2010 Domaine
de l’Estagnol (Minervois). Milk chocolate,
mocha, garrigue and mineral notes contribute to the
fragrant nose. Full bodied with pronounced alcohol, the
wine is surprisingly lacking in concentation on the midpalate. The tannins are round and easy, and the acidity
is supporting, finishing short. Laville Imports. —W.E.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
83
Moulin de Lène 2010 Alphonse (Côtes
de Thongue). The fresh but restrained nose
shows notes of pencil lead, damp earth, roasted game
and prune. The flavors follow suit but evidence fatigue
rather than freshness on the palate. The medium body
pivots around the wine’s marked acidity and dusty tannins. Cannon Wines Limited. —W.E.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
82
Moulin de Lène 2010 Romanus (Côtes
de Thongue). The closed nose slips by a sunbaked blueberry character, with notes of garrigue, mineral and cherry cough syrup. Ribena candy, black licorice and evergreen surface on the palate. It has fleshy,
fresh fruit, with finessed but somewhat coarse tannins
and pronounced but reasonable alcohol. Cannon Wines
Limited. —W.E.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
OTHER RED WINES
88
Fattoria Lavacchio 2010 Pachàr (Toscana). Pachàr is a blend of organically farmed
Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon that offers bright
aromas of citrus, peach, pineapple and blanched almond. Pair this pretty wine with rice-stuffed zucchini
or tomatoes. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
88
Monteverro 2011 Il Nostro Vermentino
(Toscana). Very crisp, clean and polished, this
is an easy white wine to enjoy with friends and grilled
fish. It’s redolent of cut grass, citrus, peach and white
almond. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Rocca di Montemassi 2011 Astraio Viognier (Maremma). Hats off to the Zonin family for being among the first to offer a Viognier from
southern Tuscany. This shows the thick viscosity that is
characteristic of the variety, with floral notes of violets
and lemon blossoms. There’s a dusty touch of mineral or
brimstone on the finish. Zonin USA. Editors’ Choice.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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WHITE WINES
G. Moulinier 2007 Les Sigillaires (SaintChinian). Notes of crushed leaves, leather and
tobacco leaves on the overt nose indicate the first signs
Diadema 2011 D’Amare (Toscana).
D’Amare is a rich blend of Chardonnay and
Viognier, offering a thick, viscous mouthfeel and bright
notes of apricot, pear, pineapple and exotic fruit. It
shows fine density and a creamy finish. Superior Wine
Selections. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $50
88
Barton & Guestier 2011 Bistro Pinot Noir
(Ile de Beauté). Soft and fruity with some
sweetness, this red-fruit-flavored wine is rounded and
warm, crispened by acidity. Barton & Guestier USA.
Best Buy. —R.V.
abv: 12%
Price: $8
L. Tramier et Fils 2010 Bourricot Pinot
Noir (Vin de France). This is a soft, gentle
Pinot with a plum jelly flavor derived from a touch of
sweetness in its fruit. Drink now. Luxe Vintages. —R.V.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
85
88
84
Les Deux Rives 2010 Rouge (Corbières).
The bright nose leads with aromas of crushed
granite, damp forest floor and baked boysenberry cobbler drizzled with cassis liqueur. This is medium-bodied, with integrated alcohol and very little glycerol. This
robust red has focused acidity and pleasantly tugging,
broad tannins. Squeaky-clean fruit and smart winemaking make this a curiously rambunctious yet polished
wine. Pasternak Wine Imports. Best Buy. —W.E.
Price: $12
abv: 13.5%
Domaine Combe Blanche 2009 La Chandelière (Minervois La Liviniere). The nose
has subtle notes of game, iodine, lavender and blackberry, which follow through oto the palate. Suave and supple tannins pair with medium acidity and evident glycerol, making this an easy-drinking red. It has integrated
yet high alcohol, and the short finish points to a drinking
window of two years. Roberts Fine Wines. —W.E.
Price: $NA
abv: 15%
a great job with Chardonnay, as evidenced by this wine.
It’s rich and soft, with bright aromas of peach, citrus,
vanilla and savory herb. A pinch of acidity on the finish
works beautifully as well. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
TUSCANY
92
Monteverro 2009 Monteverro Chardonnay (Toscana). This creamy Tuscan Chardonnay shares many characteristics with its distant cousin in
California. It shows a decidedly New World style, with
aromas of vanilla cream, dried apricot, honey, peach
cobbler and crème brûlée. The finish is marked with a
spicy toasted-oak intensity. Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $120
90
Castello Banfi 2011 Fontanelle Chardonnay (Toscana). Castello Banfi in Tuscany does
Sada 2011 Vermentino (Toscana). Handsome in packaging and content, this fresh Vermentino shows wonderful lightness, with notes of honey, yellow rose, stone fruit, pear and dried hay. Pure
honey is the primary flavor on the finish. ID Beverage
Group. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $22
Banfi 2011 Centine Bianco (Toscana).
This Tuscan blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio opens with crisp, almost tart,
tones of citrus, exotic fruit and honeydew. The wine
shows substance in the mouth and enough heft to pair
with tuna or chicken salad. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
87
Carpineto 2011 Dogajolo White (Toscana). A great value wine, this blend of Chardonnay, Grechetto and Sauvignon shows easy freshness
and bright aromas of stone fruit, lemon zest, honeydew
and peach. Opici Wines. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
87
Castello Banfi 2011 San Angelo Pinot
Grigio (Toscana). Pinot Grigio enthusiasts
will love this citrusy expression from Tuscany. There’s
just enough warm-climate ripeness here to give the
wine a full, creamy feel on the finish, yet the bouquet
WineMag.com | 33
is all about freshness; notes of lemon-lime, melon and
white peach are prominent. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
a nice touch of mineral dryness on the finish. Palm Bay
International. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
87
86
Castello d’Albola 2011 Poggio alle Fate
Chardonnay (Toscana). From one of the
most beautiful estates in Radda-in-Chianti, this pretty
Chardonnay offers layers of ripe peach, apricot, vanilla
cream and spice. Zonin USA. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
87
Col
d’Orcia
2011
Pinot
Grigio
(Sant’Antimo). From the Sant’Antimo appellation in southern Tuscany (near Montalcino), this zesty
Pinot Grigio shows the richness and fullness you usually
find in Tuscan whites. Generous tones of melon, yellow
rose and apricot are followed by bright acidity. Palm Bay
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
87
La Selva 2011 Vermentino (Maremma).
Made with organically farmed grapes, this vino
naturale opens with bright aromas of citrus, hay, cut
grass and grapefruit. The wine shows a lean, compact
feel in the mouth, with bright acidity on the finish. Euro
Fine Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
86
Pieve Vecchia 2011 Le Zere (Maremma).
A fresh blend of Fiano and Chardonnay, Le
Zere is redolent of lemon zest, pineapple, Golden Delicious apple and even a touch of banana. It’s a perfect
match to barbecued shrimp. Supreme Wines & Spirits.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
ROSÉS
88
Fattoria Le Pupille 2011 RosaMati Rosé
(Maremma). A beautiful blend of Sangiovese
and Syrah, this delivers structure and power wrapped
within delicate notes of wild berry, bitter almond, dried
blueberry and chopped herb. The close is thickly structured and fresh. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
Carpineto 2011 Dogajolo Rosé (Toscana). A whole new generation of Italian rosé
is finally gaining the attention it deserves. This is an exceptionally fresh and clean wine that would pair with
smoked salmon, fish carpaccio or insalata di mare. Opici Wines. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
86
Banfi 2011 Centine Rosé (Toscana). This
opens with a light pink color, exhibiting lively
aromas of raspberry, cranberry and pink grapefruit. The
wine is slender and easy on the finish, with a final zestycitrus blast. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 13%
Fattoria Lavacchio 2011 Bianco del Mulino (Toscana). Made with organically farmed
Trebbiano and Traminer Aromatico, this offers floral
aromas and fragrant fruit tones, with nice crispness and
medium intensity. Pair this with fried shrimp or spicy
Thai food. Best Value Wine Group. —M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 12.5%
86
87
Fattoria Le Pupille 2011 Poggio Argentato (Toscana). This is a memorable blend
of Sauvignon and Traminer that opens with the bright,
floral aromas associated with these fragrant varieties. It’s light, crisp and lively, with a zesty, clean finish.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
85
92
87
La Calonica 2011 Don Giovanni Sauvignon (Cortona). Don Giovanni seduces with
bright aromas of Granny Smith apple, citrus, kiwi and
exotic fruit. There’s a touch of soft sweetness in the
mouth, with bright fruit flavors on the finish. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
85
Banfi 2010 Le Rime Pinot Grigio (Toscana). Food friendly, informal and bright, this
easy-drinking Pinot Grigio opens with bright citrus,
stone fruit and melon. There’s a touch of white almond
paste on the close that recalls the warm Tuscan sunshine. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
92
87
85
La Corsa 2011 Dueluglio Vermentino
(Toscana). Made near the coastal town of Orbetello in Tuscany, this bright white opens with tones
of citrus, stone fruit, cut grass and crushed almond.
There’s a pretty dry note that recalls the sea salt and
the shoreside breezes of the Mediterranean. Colline
d’Italia. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
87
Pieve Vecchia 2011 Campo del Noce Vermentino (Montecucco). Aged in stainless
steel to maintain its freshness and fruitiness, this bright
Vermentino opens with zesty tones of lime, grapefruit,
dried sage and Golden Delicious apple. Supreme Wines
& Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
87
Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Occhio a Vento
Vermentino (Maremma). Occhio a Vento,
which means “eye to the wind,” is an affordable, easydrinking Vermentino that shows very crisp aromas of
cut grass, kiwi, citrus, green apple and peach. There’s
Tamburini 2011 Il Castelluccio (Toscana).
Il Castelluccio is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia, bearing fragrant aromas of lemon blossom, grapefruit and exotic fruit. The wine feels thick and sticky on
the palate, with a soft, chewy finish. Best Value Wine
Group. —M.L.
Price: $12
abv: 12%
Banfi 2011 Le Rime White (Toscana). Le
Rime is a very simple blend of Chardonnay and
Pinot Grigio that would go down nicely with tuna salad or grilled vegetables. Lean and compact, it offers
bright citrus, pear and stone fruit aromas. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
Principe Corsini - Fattoria Le Corti 2011
Vermentino della Costa (Maremma).
Packaged with an appropriate nautical theme, this
bright Vermentino from coastal Tuscany offers easy aromas of citrus, peach, pear and grapefruit. There’s a crisp
touch of spice and dried sage on the close. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $NA
85
Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Vernaccia di San
Gimignano. This is the kind of easy Italian
white that would taste delicious at an outdoor barbecue
or on a hot afternoon. The wine is light, lean and loaded
with fresh citrus flavors. Palm Bay International. Best
Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
85
Tommasi 2011 Poggio al Tufo Vermentino (Maremma). Easy, fresh and simple, this
opens with aromas of dried hay, stone fruit and honey, offering a thick, creamy feel on the palate. There’s a
touch of fruit on the close. Vintus LLC. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
CHIANTI CLASSICO
Mazzei 2007 Ser Lapo Riserva (Chianti
Classico). This is a full and generous wine
(90% Sangiovese with 10% Merlot) that lavishes on rich
layers of red cherry, soft chocolate, tobacco and spice.
You taste the pureness of the black fruit in the mouth
and are treated to a rich, velvety finish. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
Ruffino 2007 Riserva Ducale Oro (Chianti Classico). This special commemorative
bottle celebrates the 60th anniversary (1947–2007) of
one of Italy’s flagship wines. The characteristic aromas
of Sangiovese come through loud and clear in the form
of bright pulses of wild berry, blue flower, light spice
and dried tobacco. The wine is bright and tight on the
finish. Hold this bottle in your cellar. Icon Estates. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $40
91
Castelli del Grevepesa 2008 Castello di
Bibbione Riserva (Chianti Classico). Opulent and rich, this expression of Sangiovese shows a
dark, inky color, with plush aromas of black fruit, chocolate, spice, leather, pipe tobacco and roasted espresso
bean. The mouthfeel is dense and creamy, and the wine
boasts very pleasurable qualities. Duggan’s Distillers.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
91
Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Riserva di Fizzano (Chianti Classico). Made in a very respectable Chianti Classico style, the wine delivers freshness, with tart berry notes and a bright, streamlined
feel. Medallions of veal, grilled sausage or roast chicken
would all pair nicely with this Sangiovese-based wine
(with small percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot). Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
91
Rocca delle Macìe 2007 Riserva di Fizzano (Chianti Classico). Riserva di Fizzano
is always an impressive wine, and the 2007 vintage has
produced an especially generous, soft and rich bottling.
It delivers aromas of bright cherry, soft spice, chocolate,
pipe tobacco and a pretty flower accent at the back. It
would pair with pork roasted with fennel seed and garlic. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
90
Castelli del Grevepesa 2008 Clemente
VII Riserva (Chianti Classico). This opens
with characteristic aromas of wild berry, wet earth,
white truffle and roasted coffee bean. It feels rich and
concentrated in the mouth, but never heavy or sticky.
Duggan’s Distillers . —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $26
90
Castelli del Grevepesa 2007 Panzano
(Chianti Classico). Panzano is one of the
most prestigious subzones in Chianti Classico, and this
bright wine does a great job of showing true Tuscan
characteristics. Sangiovese’s trademark freshness is evident here as are its characteristic aromas of wild berry, cherry, leather and cured meat. Duggan’s Distillers.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
90
Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Riserva Famiglia
Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). This Chianti Classico Riserva has deep layers of spice, chocolate, wild berry, cherry, licorice and black pepper. The
mouthfeel is smooth, long and fresh. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
90
Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Riserva di Fizzano (Chianti Classico). For full review see
page 9.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
90
Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Riserva Famiglia
Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). Sangiovese is
enhanced with tiny percentages of Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot to create a fresh, balanced wine, with aromas of red fruit and savory spice. The mouthfeel is soft
and rich with good structure and fullness. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $24
89
Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Tenuta
Sant’Alfonso (Chianti Classico). What sets
this wine apart is the elegant intensity that distinguishes the bouquet. Notes of wild berries, coffee, leather,
wet earth and pressed violets appear throughout. In the
mouth, it has crisp cherry tones and bright acidity. Palm
Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
89
Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Tenuta
Sant’Alfonso (Chianti Classico). This is a
pure expression of Sangiovese. The grapes clearly benefited from the strong Tuscan sun, lending the wine a
soft, velvety feel, with balanced acidity and freshness.
Careful oak aging adds spice and richness. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
88
Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Famiglia
Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). A classic pasta
wine (probably best with fettuccine in meat sauce), this
Chianti Classico offers bright acidity and a bouquet redolent of wild berries, cherries, leather and subtle spices.
Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
88
Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Famiglia
Zingarelli (Chianti Classico). Youthful and
bright, this shows the lean, bright side of the Famiglia Zingarelli line. You can really taste those Sangiovese characteristics thanks to lively tones of wild berry,
raspberry, blue flower, wild mushroom and subtle spice.
That zesty acidity makes the wine perfect for cheesy
pasta or lasagna. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
87
Carpineto 2010 Chianti Classico. Executed in a streamlined and traditional fashion, this
ruby-colored wine shows tart acidity and bright fruit flavors of wild berry and blueberry. Medium bodied, this
would pair beautifully with lamb or pork chops. Opici
Wines. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
87
VII (Chianti Classico). Dark and savory, this
has spicy aromas of clove, cinnamon, prune and red
currant. It shows freshness and medium density overall.
Duggan’s Distillers. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
87
Straccali 2010 Chianti Classico. Enhanced
with tiny percentages of Merlot and Canaiolo,
this Sangiovese-dominant wine shows sweet cherry and
blueberry aromas, with pretty accents of exotic spice
and toasted almond. Pair this with fried chicken or
cotoletta alla Milanese. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
CHIANTI
85
Piccini 2011 Chianti. For full review see
page 13. Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
85
Piccini 2010 Chianti. Piccini shows confidence and consistency with this best-selling
value wine. Easy aromas of wild berry, blue violet and
moist earth reveal its Tuscan soul. Aveniù Brands, Inc.
Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
85
Straccali 2011 Chianti. Easy, slender and
fresh, this bright Chianti (85% Sangiovese with
Merlot) reveals green notes of olive and herb followed
by wild berry and spice. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
85
Straccali 2010 Chianti. This blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo is enhanced with a small
percentage of Merlot. That addition heightens the
wine’s softness and renders a richer mouthfeel. Palm
Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $13
BRUNELLO DI
MONTALCINO
94
Biondi-Santi 2006 Riserva (Brunello di
Montalcino). Biondi-Santi performs exceptionally well in elegant vintages like 2006. This wine is
balanced and fresh, with lingering notes of wild berry,
white cherry, cola, spice and dark chocolate. Age this
wine 10 years or more. Vision Wine & Spirits. Cellar
Selection. —M.L.
Price: $900
abv: 13.5%
93
Biondi-Santi 2007 Brunello di Montal
cino. An iconic wine of Italy and deservedly so,
Biondi-Santi captures the spirit of the 2007 vintage with
his clear fruit interpretations of red cherry, blackberry
and cassis. The wine shows power, structure and fresh
acidity that drives the long finish. Vision Wine & Spirits.
Cellar Selection. —M.L.
Price: $180
abv: 13.5%
93
Querceta 2006 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Compared to its basic Brunello,
Querceta ups the ante with this Riserva in terms of intensity and overall power. Bold notes of cherry, spice
and leather make an appearance in this fresh and firmly
structured offering. Novo Mexican Spirits. —M.L.
Price: $62
abv: 14%
92
Pietroso 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
This ruby-colored Brunello opens with notes
of fresh fruit, forest floor, cedar wood, exotic spice and
blackberry preserves. It shows a bright berry mouthfeel,
with cherry intensity and a clean, fresh finish. Enotria
Wine Import. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
92
Querceta 2007 Brunello di Montalcino.
Querceta delivers a beautiful Brunello with
bold tones of ripe fruit, red cherry, spice, leather and
vanilla bean. This bold red offers both structure and
fresh acidity on the finish. Novo Mexican Spirits. —M.L.
Price: $34
abv: 14%
90
Domus Vitae 2007 Brunello di Montal
cino. The 2007 vintage in Montalcino has
produced beautifully rich and balanced wines. This
pretty expression boats aromas of wild berry, dried ginger, leather, tobacco and a touch of espresso. There’s a
bright point of acidity on the close followed by a firm
tannic structure. Superior Wine Selections. —M.L.
Price: $55
abv: 14.5%
MAREMMA
88
Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maremma Toscana). Tommasi is a celebrated producer based in Valpolicella, but in
recent years the family has invested heavily in Maremma, Tuscany, to produce a solid line of value-driven
wines from the region. This shows the darkness and
ripeness of this sunny region backed by Cabernet Sauvignon’s structure. Vintus LLC. —M.L.
Price: $15
abv: 13%
87
Tommasi 2010 Poggio al Tufo Cabernet
Sauvignon (Maremma Toscana). Here’s a
WineMag.com | 35
no-fuss Cabernet Sauvignon from Tuscany that delivers
layers of black cherry, spice, leather and dried tobacco.
The intensity is measured and the mouthfeel is medium
in intensity, but the general ease and approach is what
sets this wine apart. Vintus LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
87
Tommasi 2010 Poggio al Tufo Rompi
collo (Maremma Toscana). A bright and
easy blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, this
would taste great with grilled sausage or barbecued
chicken. A vein of fresh acidity is followed by notes of
black cherry, dried raspberry and mild spice. Vintus
LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
87
Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Alicante
(Maremma Toscana). Notes of dried eucalyptus leaf, sage, savory spice and wild berry give this
Tuscan red a very unique aromatic profile. The spicy
notes continue onto the palate, showing structure and
length. Made from 100% Alicante Bouschet. Vintus
LLC. —M.L.
Price: $24
abv: 13%
87
Tommasi 2009 Poggio al Tufo Rompicollo
(Maremma Toscana). This blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon opens with slightly green
accents of bay leaf and dried sage followed by black
fruit, cherry and tobacco. The mouthfeel is smooth and
simple. Pair it with easy meat dishes or aged cheese.
Vintus LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
86
Tommasi 2008 Poggio al Tufo Alicante
(Maremma Toscana). Velvety aromas of ripe
fruit, dried herb and cured meat give this Alicante a savory, spicy feel. The wine delivers medium body and
intensity and would pair with meatloaf or white meat.
Vintus LLC. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
TOSCANA
93
Tenuta di Biserno 2007 Il Pino di Biserno
(Toscana). For full review see page 5. Cellar
Selection.
Price: $80
abv: 14.5%
92
Castellare di Castellina 2007 Coniale
(Toscana). Coniale is a pure expression of
Cabernet Sauvignon, bearing classy Tuscan characteristics of blackberry, dried Mediterranean brush, rosemary, chocolate, leather and tobacco, with a touch of
black olive in the background. The mouthfeel is rich,
persistent and soft. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
92
Petra 2008 Petra (Toscana). From one of
Italy’s most important showcase designer wineries, this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot lives
up to its super Tuscan celebrity. It is gently redolent of
dark chocolate, ripe fruit, leather, tobacco and crushed
black pepper—the bouquet’s elegant moderation is one
of its strongest points. The mouthfeel is rich, creamy
and long. Drink after 2018. Terra Moretti Trading. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $80
pair perfectly with stewed game meat, like wild boar.
Vindagra USA. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $27
92
87
Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Roccato (Toscana). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
92
Rocca delle Macìe 2009 Ser Gioveto (Toscana). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
91
Castello Banfi 2009 Cum Laude (Toscana). This blend of Cabernet, Merlot and
Syrah shows a decadently soft side thanks to its aromas
of black cherry, tobacco, chocolate and subtle spice. It
delivers density and substance on the finish and would
pair with pasta and creamy porcini sauce. Banfi Vintners. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
91
Piccini 2007 Sasso al Poggio (Toscana).
For full review see page 8. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14%
Price: $22
91
Renieri 2007 Regina di Renieri (Toscana).
This is a pure expression of Syrah that shows
rich aromas of ripe fruit, leather, tobacco, crushed black
pepper and blackberry. The finish is long and smooth.
Pair this with steak in a creamy green-pepper sauce.
Michelangelo Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
91
Rocca delle Macìe 2008 Ser Gioveto (Toscana). Ser Gioveto is 80% Sangiovese with
small additions of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. It
has a deeply saturated ruby color and compelling aromas of ripe fruit, strawberry, rum cake and soft spice.
There’s a jammy accent in the bouquet that gives momentum to its rich, velvety mouthfeel. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
91
Ruffino 2008 Modus (Toscana). Modus delivers velvety aromas of black cherry, chocolate,
leather, exotic spice and pipe tobacco. This super Tuscan blend is comprised of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, and it does a very nice job of showing
the soft side of those grape varieties, especially on the
long finish. Icon Estates. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
90
VII Settimo (Toscana). A blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Syrah, this opens with plush layers of
black fruit, tobacco, chocolate and crushed black pepper. Full, ripe and modern, this has lingering notes of
exotic spice and toasted nut on the finish. Duggan’s Distillers. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $30
88
I Giusti e Zanza 2009 Nemorino (Toscana). Dark in color and slightly bashful at
first, this blend of Syrah, Sangiovese and Merlot shows
strength in its solid structure, with bright aromas of red
cherry, blackberry, leather and cured meat. It would
Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Rubizzo (Toscana). A blend of Sangiovese and a tiny percent of Merlot, this opens with concentrated fruit and
warm climate aromas of blackberry jam and cherry
preserves. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
OTHER RED WINES
92
Carpineto 2006 Riserva (Vino Nobile di
Montepulciano). Carpineto’s Vino Nobile
Riserva is almost too much of a good thing with its rich
density, bold intensity and big aromas of ripe blackberry, leather, exotic spice and tobacco. It has smooth texture and polished tannins as well. Age 10 years or more.
Opici Wines. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
88
Querceta 2010 Rosso di Montalcino. This
pretty Rosso offers sweet berry and raspberry aromas, with slight touches of toasted almond and
spice. The finish is fresh and crisp. Novo Mexican Spirits. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $16
87
Rocca delle Macìe 2011 Campomaccione (Morellino di Scansano). Bright and
lively, with cherry and blueberry nuances, this would
pair well with pizzas or simple cheeseburgers. It delivers loads of fresh berry intensity and soft, smooth tannins. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
87
Rocca delle Macìe 2010 Campomaccione
(Morellino di Scansano). Here’s a cheerful,
bright Morellino di Scansano, with jammy fruit notes of
blackberry and cherry. The quality of the fruit is plump
and round, and the mouthfeel feels chewy and seemingly slightly sweet. Palm Bay International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
CENTRAL ITALY WHITES
ORVIETO
90
Barberani 2009 Luigi e Giovanna (Orvieto Classico Superiore). This maybe the nicest Orvieto white on the market today. Named after the
estate’s founders, this is enhanced with a tiny percentage of Grechetto Muffa Nobile (botrytized sweet wine)
for extra softness and density. The effect is superb, offering loads of honey and stone fruit intensity. Vinifera
Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
87
Barberani 2011 Castagnolo (Orvieto
Classico Superiore). Here’s a fascinating
blend of Procanico, Verdello, Grechetto, Drupeggio,
Malvasia, Chardonnay and Riesling that offers a crisp,
bright bouquet redolent of citrus, white flower, papaya
and peach. Pair this wine with spicy Indian food or fresh
pasta salad. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
som and peach. The mouthfeel is smooth, crisp and dry.
Opici Wines. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
The finish is balanced with crisp freshness. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
86
86
85
VERDICCHIO DEI
CASTELLI DI JESI
83
Trappolini 2010 White (Orvieto). From an
up-and-coming estate in Umbria, this blended
white (Trebbiano, Malvasia and Grechetto) opens with
generous aromas of ripe fruit, apricot, caramel and
honey. The mouthfeel is thick and creamy. T. Edward
Wines Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
85
Rocca delle Macìe 2011 White (Orvieto
Classico). This offers tonic citrus and kiwi
aromas followed by a thin, no-fuss mouthfeel. Simple,
fresh and bright, it’s an easy-drinking Orvieto Classico
that would pair with appetizers or fried finger foods.
abv: 12%
Price: $12
83
Barberani 2011 Vi No SO2 (Orvieto Classico Superiore). This shows slightly volatile
aromas of bitter almond, apple skin and apricot. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
Price: $25
abv: 13%
UMBRIA
93
Marchesi Antinori 2010 Cervaro della
Sala (Umbria). From Antinori’s Castello della
Sala estate, this landmark white helped to shine the
spotlight on Umbria’s untapped enological potential.
A blend of Chardonnay and Grechetto, this is smooth,
creamy, complex and long lasting. It offers a beautiful
bouquet of vanilla, apricot, exotic fruit and honey, with a
subtle touch of exotic spice. Ste. Michelle Wine Estates.
Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
88
Tabarrini NV White (Umbria). An interesting
white, this has an off-gold color, opening with
thick aromas of apricot, honey, Golden Delicious apple
and pineapple. There’s a cheerful touch of zesty spice
on the finish. Tabarrini USA. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
87
Lungarotti 2011 Torre di Giano (Umbria).
Recently relabeled with an Umbria appellation instead of the smaller Torgiano designation, Torre
di Giano is a celebrated wine that represents the light,
fresh style of Italian whites. The blend is Vermentino,
Trebbiano and Grechetto, with a bouquet that’s redolent of stone fruit, citrus and dried basil. Vin Divino.
Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $15
86
Barberani 2011 Vermentino (Umbria).
This opens with green notes of kiwi, cut grass
and citrus and finishes with lively acidity and zest. It’s a
fresh, easy wine that shows balance and cheerful informality. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
86
Bigi 2010 Vipra Bianca (Umbria). Vipra
Bianca, which means “white viper,” is a blend
of 60% Grechetto and 40% Chardonnay. The bouquet
offers a delicate floral aroma, with notes of lemon blos-
Roccafiore 2010 Bianco Fiordaliso (Umbria). An organic blend of 80% Grechetto and
20% Trebbiano, this shows big structure and density. It
almost feels like a red wine in the mouth because of the
creamy texture and weight. The bouquet is fragrant and
intense with citrus, honey and apricot aromas. Vintners
Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
90
Umani Ronchi 2010 Casal di Serra (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico
Superiore). This is a bright and sophisticated Verdicchio that would pair with the highest caliber seafood
including shellfish and crustaceans. It is dense and
rich, with cleansing tones of citrus, yellow flower, honey, dried sage and a touch of smooth vanilla. Bedford
abv: 13%
Price: $16
88
Pievalta 2009 San Paolo Riserva (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). This
biodynamic and organic wine from the Barone Pizzini
wine group shows linear aromas of citrus, stone fruit
and crushed granite. The grapes are farmed on clay and
tufo rock soils, and these conditions seem to add to the
general dryness and elegance of the finished wine. Vignaioli. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
88
Sartarelli 2009 Tralivio (Verdicchio dei
Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore).
Tralivio is an impressive wine that shows surprising
brightness and youth despite spending three years in
the bottle. The bouquet is redolent of peach, citrus,
honey and blanched almond. And, there’s a drying vein
of chalky mineral or brimstone that adds an elegant
touch. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
88
Sartarelli 2008 Balciana (Verdicchio dei
Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). Light
golden in color, this has ripe aromas of stone fruit, apricot, honey, grapefruit and dried herb. It has freshness
and structure, and the finish lasts for many long minutes. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
88
Umani Ronchi 2008 Plenio Riserva (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). An
oak-fermented Verdicchio, this has an off-gold color,
with bright aromas of lemon candy, butterscotch, honey, dried apricot and pineapple. This is made in a big,
structured style, making it appropriate for white meat or
spicy Thai chicken. Bedford International. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
85
Fattoria Laila 2010 Eklektikos (Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico Superiore). This opens with a thick bouquet, bearing candylike aromas of lemon soda, honey and apricot preserves.
Umani Ronchi 2010 Exclamation Point
(Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico). Distinguished by its bottle with a black label in the
shape of a giant exclamation point, this fresh Verdicchio
shows simple lines and lively flavors of citrus, peach,
dried hay and stone fruit. It’s a light-bodied wine with
tart acidity. Bedford International. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12%
Price: $10
Fattoria Laila 2010 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi. Slightly oxidized at first with aromas
of caramel and butterscotch, the wine soon opens to reveal apricot, honey and dried hay. It’s an easy, genuine
wine to pair with fried onion rings. Montecastelli Selections. —M.L.
abv: 11.5%
Price: $12
TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO
92
Masciarelli 2008 Castello di Semivicoli
(Trebbiano d’Abruzzo). What sets this wine
apart is its gorgeous, creamy intensity on the finish.
Made from Trebbiano, this expression shows the qualitative heights this variety can achieve. Notes of vanilla
cream, peach cobbler, dried sage and pineapple appear
on the bouquet. The finish is long and full. Try aging
this for five years or longer. Masciarelli Wine Co. Cellar
Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
87
Masciarelli 2010 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. A
very approachable Trebbiano, this boasts crisp
aromas of cut grass, almond skin, honey and stone fruit.
The finish is fresh, with a smooth, creamy texture. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $20
86
Pasetti
2011
Zarachè
(Trebbiano
d’Abruzzo). A blend of Trebbiano with a small
percent of a little-known grape called Cococciola, this
has a fresh bouquet with lemon zest, honey and exotic fruit. The wine’s easy mouthfeel makes it perfect for
toasted crostini appetizers. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
85
Talamonti
2011
Trebì
(Trebbiano
d’Abruzzo). This is a well-priced white that
shows Trebbiano’s easy and fresh side, with notes of cut
grass, citrus and honey. Great for pairing with grilled
tuna or salad. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
COLLINE PESCARESI
88
Talamonti 2011 Trabocchetto Pecorino
(Colline Pescaresi). A wonderful expression
of Pecorino, this opens with a beautiful floral intensity
and fresh aromas of honey, peach, apricot and yellow
rose. There’s a drying mineral note on the finish, concluding with a touch of zesty spice. Panebianco. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
Price: $20
abv: 13%
WineMag.com | 37
87
Barba 2011 Pecorino (Colline Pescaresi).
Pecorino is among the hottest, up-and-coming
white varieties from Italy, and this beautiful expression
shows a nice balance between acidity and thick density. The dense, creamy structure is followed by tones of
pineapple, stone fruit, butterscotch candy and yellow
rose. Michelangelo Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
86
Farnese 2011 Pinot Grigio (Colline Pescaresi). Made using organically farmed fruit,
this fresh value white opens with bright tones of citrus
and green apple. Pair this wine with grilled vegetables
or curry chicken salad. Empson (USA) Ltd. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
85
Caldora Vini 2011 Pinot Grigio (Colline
Pescaresi). From the Adriatic side of the Italian peninsula comes this fresh Pinot Grigio that would
wash down seafood, vegetables or light appetizers. The
wine is crisp, clean and redolent of citrus and green apple. Vin Divino. —M.L.
Price: $11
abv: 12.5%
85
Cantina Zaccagnini 2011 Dal Tralcetto Pinot Grigio (Colline Pescaresi). The packaging stands out with its tiny grape cutting that’s tied to
the bottle’s neck. This is a bright wine that’s redolent of
lemon soda, chalky candy (like Pez) and apricot. Wines
Unlimited, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
FRASCATI SUPERIORE
88
Principe Pallavicini 2011 Poggio Verde
(Frascati Superiore). For full review see
page 9.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
86
Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2011 Saula Carta Bianca (Frascati Superiore). From one
of Lazio’s most promising wineries, this white blend
of indigenous grapes delivers a fragrant bouquet of
peach blossom, citrus, pear and apple. The mouthfeel is
smooth and silky, with a touch of crisp freshness on the
finish. Saranty Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $NA
OTHER WHITE WINES
88
Arnaldo Caprai 2011 Grecante Grechetto (Colli Martani). What a wonderful wine to
pair with spaghetti alle vongole or calamari fritti. Made
from Grechetto grapes and aged only in stainless steel,
this is fresh, youthful, tangy and crisp, with aromas of
citrus, kiwi, honeydew and peach. Folio Fine Wine
Partners. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Casale del Giglio 2011 Chardonnay
(Lazio). Produced by probaby the most popular brand found in the many trattorie of Rome, this
creamy Chardonnay delivers aromas of peach, apricot
and vanilla cream. Soilair Selection. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
88
Falesco 2008 Ferentano Roscetto
(Lazio). Roscetto, a little-known white grape
from central Italy, delivers impressive structure, depth
and intensity. As the wine sees four months of oak, this
drinks like a red wine. Bright gold in color, this has generous aromas of peach, pineapple, almond, vanilla and
spice. Winebow. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14.5%
88
Illuminati Dino 2011 Pecorino (Contro
guerra). Pecorino is a native variety from central Italy that shows a thick consistency and natural aromas of yellow flower, butterscotch and exotic fruit. This
expression is exceptionally well made because it is crisp
and dense without feeling heavy or too chewy. There’s a
touch of tangy green herb on the finish. Montcalm Wine
Importers. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
87
Caldora Vini 2010 Colle dei Venti Pecorino (Terre di Chieti). If you haven’t already
tried Pecorino, Colle dei Venti is a good place to start.
This boasts loads of peach, exotic fruit, pineapple and
pear, with a medium body, good structure and tartness.
Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $19
87
Il Pollenza 2011 Brianello (Marche). For
full review see page 10.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
87
Tenuta di Pietra Porzia 2011 Saula Carta
Nera (Frascati Superiore). Fresh and easy,
this delivers fruity aromas of Golden Delicious apple,
apricot, honey and yellow flower. A drying mineral
note renders a clean, polished finish. Saranty Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
Illuminati Dino 2011 Costalupo (Controguerra). A blend of Trebbiano, Passerina
and Chardonnay, this offers aromas of cut grass, citrus,
lemon zest, creamy vanilla and peach. The fresh acidity makes this a perfect match for crab legs and butter
sauce. Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
85
87
86
Principe Pallavicini 2011 Frascati Superiore. This is a cheerful white from Lazio with
abundant aromas of white flower and honey. It’s easy
going, slender and slightly tart on the finish. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
Roccafiore 2010 Fiorfiore Grechetto
(Todi). Made from organically farmed Gre
chetto grapes, this delivers pineapple, Golden Delicious
apple, sweet almond and apricot. It would make the
perfect companion to shellfish or barbecued shrimp.
Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
87
Saladini Pilastri 2011 Offida Pecorino.
The packaging features a cute sheep cartoon on
the label to underline the double significance of Pecorino, which is the name of the grape but also means “little
sheep.” It’s redolent of exotic fruit, apricot and white
pepper, with a thick, soft, almost-viscous mouthfeel.
MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
87
Tre Monti 2011 Vigna Rocca Albana (Romagna). The Albana varietal is usually made
into dessert wine, but this interesting rendition is vinified dry. It opens with fragrant aromas of honey, peach
and apricot. A touch of subtle sweetness marks the finish. Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $14
86
Capestrano 2011 Verdicchio di Matelica.
There’s a distinctive element to this Verdicchio
that resembles pressed flower, honey, apricot and fresh
pineapple. This is crisp, easy-going and straightforward.
Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
86
Roccafiore 2010 Bianco Fiordaliso
Grechetto (Todi). Made using organic fruit,
this has aromas of pineapple, apricot and candied lemon. There’s a sensation of stickiness on the palate that
resembles ripe fruit and honey. Vintners Estate Direct
Importing. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
86
Tre Monti 2010 Thea (Rubicone). This is
an eccentric white with thick density and fatty
glycerine. It’s a bold, big white with aromas of apricot,
pear, melon and yellow rose. It drinks like a red wine.
Zancanella Importing Co. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $21
85
Capestrano 2010 Verdicchio di Matelica.
Verdicchio is celebrated for its crisp, green aromas that resemble lime, kiwi and cut grass. This expression offers those notes, with an added touch of lemon
candy. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
85
Saladini Pilastri 2011 White (Falerio
dei Colli Ascolani). Made with organically
farmed fruit, this is light and easy, showing aromas of
citrus, white flower and peach. The mouthfeel is creamy
and slightly viscous on the finish. MHW, Ltd. Best Buy.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
84
Caldora Vini 2010 Chardonnay (Terre di
Chieti). This is a ripe Chardonnay with aromas of pineapple, Golden Delicious apple and honey.
It’s slightly thick and sticky on the close. Vindino Wine.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
ROSATO
87
Ciavolich Giuseppe 2010 Divus Rosato
(Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Cerasuolo).
This delightful rosé offers fresh aromas of raspberry,
citrus, cherry and blanched almond. The finish is cool
and crisp, but the wine also delivers good structure and
length. Clyde Thomas. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Domodimonti 2010 Piccolo Principe Rosato (Marche). A blend of mostly Sangiovese with some Cabernet Sauvignon, this fresh offering opens with light aromas of raspberry, white cherry,
pressed violet and peach. Piccolo Principe has enough
structure to stand up to white meat or shellfish. MHW,
Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
87
Illuminati Dino 2011 Campirosa Rosato
(Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo). Some of Italy’s best
rosé wines come from the Abruzzo region and are made
with the hearty, locally grown Montepulciano grape.
This expression opens with fresh aromas of wild berry,
white almond and dried herb. Montcalm Wine Importers. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $12
87
Talamonti 2011 Rosato (Cerasuolo
d’Abruzzo). A delicious rosato made from the
hearty Montepulciano grape, this opens with pretty aromas of garden flower, wild berry, dried mint and white
almond. This is crisp, fresh and would pair with fried
calamari rings. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
86
Barberani 2011 Rosato (Umbria). This
food-friendly rosé has a light pink color and
fresh aromas of peach, grapefruit and wild berry. The
mouthfeel is soft and fresh, showing a subtle touch of
sweetness. Vinifera Imports. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $NA
93
Arnaldo Caprai 2007 Collepiano (Sagrantino di Montefalco). The 2007 vintage
was beautiful in Umbria, and this proves to be a stand
out wine with enormous power, personality and depth.
It delivers gorgeous intensity with pulses of black cherry, chocolate fudge, spice, leather and pipe tobacco. The
finish is soft and rich. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar
Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
92
Arnaldo Caprai 2006 Collepiano (Sagrantino di Montefalco). A delicious expression of Sagrantino, this delivers soft tones of chocolate,
exotic spice and toasted nut, lavished over a core of
bright cherry and blackberry. The wine shows density
and power with characteristic tannic firmness on the
close. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
91
Moretti Omero 2005 Montefalco Sagrantino. What a rare and beautiful expression of
Sagrantino. This delivers unusual tones of cola, eucalyptus, dried ginger, wild berry and exotic spice. The
characteristic firm tannins and structure of Sagrantino appear fine and textured. Fourcade & Hecht Wine
Selections. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
90
Còlpetrone 2005 Gold (Montefalco Sagrantino). This expression opens with deep,
sophisticated aromas of cured meat, dried berry fruit
and exotic spice. Hearty and rich, this has a thick, textured mouthfeel. You can taste the heat and sunshine of
the 2005 vintage. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $135
90
Masciarelli 2010 Rosato (Colline Teatine).
Packed with jammy fruit and sweet raspberry
flavors, this easy rosé would make a great partner to
cocktail appetizers. The finish shows flavors of wild berry and bitter almond. Masciarelli Wine Co. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
Lungarotti 2009 Sagrantino di Montefalco. This elegant Sagrantino boasts a dark, inky
color, with aromas of blackberry, tobacco, spice, leather, tar and a touch of cherry cola. It shows power and
concentration but is well balanced overall. Vin Divino.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $47
CENTRAL ITALY REDS
90
84
SAGRANTINO DI
MONTEFALCO
95
Arnaldo Caprai 2007 25 Anni (Sagrantino di Montefalco). For full review see page
3. Cellar Selection.
abv: 15%
Price: $100
94
Arnaldo Caprai 2006 25 Anni (Sagrantino
di Montefalco). Vintner Marco Caprai is the
man who has tamed the tannic, unruly beast that is Sagrantino. Having carefully aged for two years in oak, this
has become deeply elegant and sophisticated. Aromas
of chocolate, exotic spice, dark berry, leather, tobacco
and dried prune leave a lasting impression. Age for 10
years or more. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $100
Tabarrini 2005 Colle Grimaldesco (Montefalco Sagrantino). There’s a bright hint of
soft fruit or ripe cherry that takes away from the overall
austerity of the Sagrantino grape. In the background,
there are tones of tar, tobacco and spice. The mouthfeel
is firmly structured and finely textured as well. Tabarrini
USA. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
90
Tabarrini 2004 Colle alle Macchie (Montefalco Sagrantino). Dark, inky and superconcentrated, this masculine expression offers aromas
of dark berry, licorice, tar, tobacco and black asphalt.
There’s a touch of mineral dryness in the mouth, with
loads of heat and power. Pair it with aged cheese or succulent steak. Tabarrini USA. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
90
Tenuta Alzatura 2007 Sagrantino di Montefalco. Tenuta Alzatura is part of the Cecchi
Family Estates (well-known producers in Tuscany), and
its foray into Umbria has added depth and variety to
an already rich portfolio of wines. The Sagrantino grape
shows impressive smoothness, firmness and bright aromas of chocolate, dark cherry and spice. Banfi Vintners.
—M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $45
89
Fongoli 2007 Montefalco Sagrantino.
Thick, savory and darkly concentrated, this inky
Sagrantino opens with aromas of ripe blackberry, prune,
plum, cured meat and exotic spice. It shows firm, unyielding tannins on the finish. Massanois Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
88
Benincasa 2004 Sagrantino di Montefalco. Having spent 26 months in oak, this dark
and sophisticated Sagrantino opens with savory aromas
of toast, cured meat, dark chocolate and dried fruit.
It shows a thick, velvety texture, with a touch of tannic firmness on the finish. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
88
Còlpetrone 2006 Montefalco Sagrantino.
This dark, inky expression of Sagrantino offers
jammy aromas of strawberry jam and blackberry preserves, followed by notes of prune, dark chocolate and
spice. Expressive and structured, it would pair with
roasted pork or grilled prime rib. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $60
88
Tabarrini 2006 Campo alla Cerqua (Montefalco Sagrantino). There’s a ripe note of
blackberry jam at the start that is followed by savory
tones of cured meat and dried tobacco. Bold, inky and
dense, this would pair with steak and green pepper
sauce. Tabarrini USA. —M.L.
abv: 15%
Price: $NA
88
Tenuta Castelbuono 2006 Montefalco Sagrantino. This Sagrantino by the relatively new
brand Tenuta Castelbuono (owned by the same family that runs Ferrari sparkling wine) opens with savory
notes of cured meat, blackberry and tobacco. It feels
rich and spicy on the finish. Palm Bay International.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
87
Roccafiore 2007 Sagrantino di Montefalco. There’s a pungent, spice note at the start
that recalls dried rosemary or sage. Superdark and concentrated, this picks up with notes of dried apple skin,
tar, leather, tobacco and jammy cherry. Vintners Estate
Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $27
MONTEFALCO ROSSO
90
Arnaldo Caprai 2010 Montefalco Rosso.
For full review see page 8.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
90
Arnaldo Caprai 2008 Montefalco Rosso.
The modern Arnaldo Caprai estate sits at the
base of the hill occupied by the quaint town of Montefalco in Umbria. Montefalco Rosso is a wine that gives
Umbria a chance to strut its stuff with Sangiovese (a
grape usually associated with Tuscany). This expression
WineMag.com | 39
is soft, velvety and packed with red fruit. Folio Fine
Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $23
wild berry, with background tones of tobacco and worn
leather. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
90
Arnaldo Caprai 2007 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). Aged 20 months in French oak,
this offers loads of spicy zest and crispness, followed
by notes of blackberry, leather, cola and tobacco. Try it
with lamb in fresh mint sauce. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $46
87
90
87
Moretti Omero 2007 Montefalco Rosso.
This is a nicely balanced Montefalco Rosso
comprised of organically farmed Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Merlot. It would pair well with grilled sausage and onions or oven-roasted pasta—hearty dishes
that would match the dark fruit, spice and tobacco-like
flavors. Fourcade & Hecht Wine Selections. Editors’
Choice. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
88
Benincasa 2007 Montefalco Rosso.
There’s a touch of dark spice and cured meat at
the start that is followed by fruitier notes of blackberry
and plum. This shows smooth tannins and nice richness,
making it a good pairing partner to potato gnocchi with
gorgonzola cheese sauce. Terra Verus Trading Co. LP.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
88
Fongoli 2007 Riserva (Montefalco Rosso). There’s a rustic element here that recalls
smoked bacon or cured beef, with loads of ripe fruit like
blackberry and maraschino cherry. This rich, plump red
delivers the intensity and staying power to pair with succulent cuts of beef. Massanois Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
88
Lungarotti 2010 Montefalco Rosso. A
blend of 75% Sangiovese, with additions of
Merlot and Sagrantino, this opens with spicy aromas of
cinnamon and crushed clove, with background tones of
blackberry, cherry cola and black licorice. Pair this with
veal and wild mushrooms. Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $38
88
Tabarrini 2007 Montefalco Rosso. Montefalco Rosso is primarily Sangiovese with Sagrantino, with additions of other red varieties from central
Italy. This delivers a strong berry personality with notes
of cherry and dried raspberry, backed by notes of wet
earth, leather and spice. Tabarrini USA. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $NA
87
Còlpetrone 2008 Montefalco Rosso.
Owned by the larger wine group Saiagricola,
Còlpetrone is a solid estate with large vineyard holdings
in the Montefalco area. This dark, inky offering shows
aromas of blackberry, spice, leather and moist pipe tobacco. Vias Imports. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
87
Fongoli 2009 Montefalco Rosso. Composed of Sangiovese, Sagrantino, Merlot and
Montepulciano, this offers pretty tones of spice and
Fongoli 2008 Montefalco Rosso. There’s a
savory element here of dried ham or beef jerky,
backed by blackberry, prune, leather and spice. It shows
a touch of bright acidity on the close that would help
it pair with cheesy pasta dishes. Massanois Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Tenuta Castelbuono 2008 Montefalco
Rosso. Dark and savory, yet easy-drinking, this
is redolent of blackberry, prune, leather, tobacco and exotic spice. It would pair with roast chicken or spicy pork.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
OTHER UMBRIAN REDS
92
Lungarotti 2007 Rubesco Riserva Vigna
Monticchio (Torgiano). This wine’s most outstanding quality is the elegant and delicate manner with
which the bouquet slowly reveals itself. This vineyarddesignate wine is a traditional blend of Sangiovese and
Canaiolo, opening with subtle aromas of red cherry,
dried violet, moist earth, vanilla and cured meat. Vin
Divino. Cellar Selection. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $57
91
Falesco 2008 Marciliano Cabernet (Umbria). Cabernets Franc and Sauvignon show
a united front with an authentic Italian feel. Umbria’s
Marciliano is a dense and rich red wine, with savory aromas of blackberry, cured meat, dried sage, leather, tobacco and dark chocolate. The wine’s tannins are firm
and dense, but not at all sharp or thorny. Winebow.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
91
Lungarotti 2005 San Giorgio (Umbria).
This shows beautiful balance and intensity, with
notes of black fruit, espresso, leather and a touch of
drying mineral. The blend is Sangiovese, Canaiolo and
Cabernet Sauvignon. Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $63
91
Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Phi Natura Armonia (Umbria). Cabernet Franc and Montepulciano join forces to produce a bold, masculine wine
with a velvety soft style and lasting notes of chocolate,
tobacco, blackberry and spice. There’s a touch of Cabernet greenness on the close that recalls dried rosemary
or sage. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
91
Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Phi Natura Armonia (Umbria). Bold, thick and chewy, this masculine blend of Montepulciano and Cabernet Franc delivers lasting aromas of pipe tobacco, cinnamon, jammy
blackberry and dried herb. The finish is driven by a soft,
chocolate-fudge-like aftertaste. Votto Vines Importing.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
90
Barberani 2007 Polvento Villa Monticelli (Lago di Corbara). This blend of Sangiovese, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon opens with bright
aromas of cola, licorice, black fruit and tobacco. It’s an
elegant red wine with enough structure to pair with
roast pork or thinly cut lamb shanks. Vinifera Imports.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
90
Falesco 2009 Il Falesco (Umbria). A blend
of Merlot and Sangiovese, this delivers beautiful
aromas of chocolate, spice, tobacco, ripe fruit and black
cherry. It is densely concentrated and plump, with a velvety mouthfeel and long finish. Pair it with oven-roasted
lasagna. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
90
Lungarotti 2007 Toralco (Umbria). This
superconcentrated red delivers savory aromas
of cured meat, wild mushroom, exotic spice with bold
fruit tones of prune, plum and dried blackberry. It’s a
bold wine that would pair with fire-grilled steak. Vin Divino. —M.L.
Price: $NA
abv: 14%
89
Falesco 2010 Merlot (Umbria). Falesco’s
Riccardo Cotarella makes some of Italy’s best
Merlot. His talents are evident in this easygoing expression from Umbria, which is rich and succulent, bearing
dark tones of blackberry, leather and sweet chocolate.
Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
88
Arnaldo Caprai 2008 Anima Umbra (Umbria). A blend of Sangiovese and Canaiolo, this
is a richly concentrated red that would pair with pork,
lamb or hearty lasagna with beef sauce. An easy dinner
wine to share with friends, it is redolent of blackberry,
spice and cured meat. Folio Fine Wine Partners. Best
Buy. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
88
Falesco 2010 Vitiano (Umbria). You can’t
beat this low price. No wonder Vitiano is a constant feature on wine lists at restaurants across Rome.
This blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese offers spicy oak notes, with suggestions of ripe
cherry, blackberry and spice. Winebow. Best Buy.
—M.L.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
88
Lungarotti 2009 Rubesco (Torgiano). A
a blend of Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino,
this opens with a tangy bouquet that’s redolent of wild
berry, dried ginger, cola and licorice. Easy drinking and
smooth, this has fresh acidity on the finish. Vin Divino.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
88
Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Terra di Confine
(Umbria). Aged 12 months in French oak, this
has creamy aromas of chocolate fudge and cinnamon.
Made by Umbria’s Maravalle family, this blend of 80%
Montepulciano and 20% Merlot is easy going and crisp,
with loads of fresh fruit flavors. Votto Vines Importing.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
88
Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Terra di Confine
(Umbria). Comprised of mostly Montepulciano with 20% Merlot, this shows sweet tones of ripe
cherry, blackberry, cinnamon and tobacco. It’s simple
and straightforward, with clean, velvety lines. Votto
Vines Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $29
87
Falesco 2009 Merlot (Umbria). A great trattoria wine, this smooth Merlot opens with aromas of ripe fruit and a touch of cured meat. It’s a fullbodied expression with easy fruit flavors and a touch of
bright acidity on the close. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Falesco 2009 Red (Assisi). This easygoing
blend of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and
Merlot would make a perfect companion to a hearty
pasta dish like bucatini all’Amatriciana or spaghetti alla
carbonara. It delivers red cherry, leather and tobacco
notes over a clean, bright mouthfeel. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Falesco 2008 Sangiovese (Umbria).
Plump and rich, this shows warm climate aromas of blackberry preserves, ripe cherry, dark cola and
cigar tobacco. There’s a fine touch of exotic spice on the
close. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
87
Roccafiore 2008 Prova d’Autore (Umbria). A blend of Sangiovese, Montepulciano
and Sagrantino, this is a rich, chewy red with savory aromas of cured meat and spice. There’s a touch of ripe
fruit and even a note on the finish that resembles cinnamon or ground nutmeg. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
87
Roccafiore 2008 Rosso (Umbria). This
Sangiovese-based red has a light, ruby color and
offers fresh aromas of violet, wet earth, wild mushroom
and leather. Delicate and streamlined, it has fresh acidity that would pair well with simple pasta and Parmigiano. Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
87
Tenuta Vitalonga 2010 Elcione (Umbria).
A blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Cabernet, this
delivers sassy aromas of leather and cinnamon, with
ripe, pulpy fruit. There’s a touch of cherry that gives
the wine a soft, velvety finish. Votto Vines Importing.
—M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
87
Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Elcione (Umbria).
This is the quintessential red meat wine that
delivers plump aromas of dark berry, leather, spice
and black pepper. There’s a touch of jammy fruit in the
mouth but enough acidity to break through succulent
cuts of lamb or beef. Votto Vines Importing. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
86
La Carraia 2008 Tizzonero (Umbria). This
opens with savory, slightly beefy aromas of bresaola and ripe blackberry. There seems to be a touch of
sweetness on the palate, followed by a thickly textured
finish. Winebow. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $NA
86
Roccafiore 2009 Rosso Melograno (Umbria). A blend of 80% Sangiovese and 20%
Montepulciano, this opens with savory aromas of tobacco, leather, cola, cherry cola and white licorice. The
mouthfeel is fresh, light and slightly tart on the finish.
Vintners Estate Direct Importing. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
86
Tenuta Vitalonga 2009 Sangio’vese (Umbria). This easy expression of Sangiovese offers
an unusual set of aromas that spans from sweet Christmas spice to blue flower to green herb. A touch of cola
or eucalyptus gives the wine a bright, vertical lift. Votto
Vines Importing. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
MARCHE
90
tones of rose petal, pink grapefruit and bitter almond.
Angelini Wine. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
MONTEPULCIANO
D’ABRUZZO
90
Cantina Zaccagnini 2008 Vigneto Edoardo (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This offers
layers of toasted nut, chocolate, jammy black fruit and
tobacco. The mouthfeel is soft and smooth, with a good
deal of richness and density to drive it forward over the
palate. Wines Unlimited, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $60
90
Pasetti 2007 Tenutarossa (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Rich and chewy, this comes
with bold aromas of black fruit, plum, licorice, tobacco
and leather. It’s slightly rustic in places, but its overall
personality and feel is intriguing and pleasurable. Old
Bridge Cellars. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $50
Colli di Serrapetrona 2006 Robbione
(Marche). Robbione is a pure expression of
Vernaccia Nera—a red grape variety found in central
Italy—that is strongly redolent of white pepper straight
out of a pepper mill. Unique, intense and loaded with
personality, try this with grilled steak in green pepper
sauce. Jan D’Amore Wines. —M.L.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Talamonti 2010 Tre Saggi (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). A great wine to pair with gourmet hamburgers or grilled Italian sausages, this has a
smooth mouthfeel that’s enhanced by layers of sweet
blackberry, tobacco, cinnamon and espresso bean. The
finish is soft and velvety. Panebianco. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
90
88
Il Pollenza 2007 Red (Marche). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $57
88
Domodimonti 2008 Il Messia (Marche). A
plump blend of 50% Merlot and 50% Monte
pulciano, this opens with a sweet cherry flavor, followed
by notes of tobacco, leather and cola. Pair this with pork
sausages. MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
87
Domodimonti 2008 Picens (Marche). This
is a bold blend of Montepulciano, Sangiovese,
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, offering sweet aromas
of red cherry, blackberry, spice and pipe tobacco. The
ripeness of the wine is very attractive—thanks to a playful touch of sweetness on the finish MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
86
Domodimonti 2010 Monte Fiore Sangiovese (Marche). Slender and compact, this has
a light ruby color, with lively aromas of wild berry and
bitter almond. The acidity shows a tight, nervous quality. MHW, Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $15
85
Angelini 2011 Pergola Rosso (Marche).
This opens with perfumed aromas of blue flower, cherry and wild berry. Soft and simple, it has a pretty floral finish of red rose and violet. Angelini Wine.
—M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
83
Angelini 2010 Pergola Rosso (Marche).
Light and lean, this could easily be labeled a
rosé. The aromas reinforce that notion thanks to the
89
Caldora Vini 2007 Yume (Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo). Notes of raw cherry, coffee syrup,
ripe blackberry and moist pipe tobacco all play major
roles on the bouquet. This is boldly extracted and rich,
with toasted espresso and almond notes on the finish.
Vin Divino. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
88
Cantina Zaccagnini 2009 Dal Tralcetto
(Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Dal Tralcetto
shows the softness of Montepulciano, with aromas of
sweet cherry, prune, tobacco, cinnamon and toasted
nut. A tiny grape cutting is affixed to the neck of the
bottle as a throwback to old farming traditions. Wines
Unlimited, Inc. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
88
Cantina Zaccagnini 2008 Chronicon
(Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Montepulciano d’Abruzzo wines are making steady gains in popularity in foreign markets thanks to the softness and the
creaminess of their fruit flavors. This one has soft and
yielding tannins, with aromas that are intensely redolent
of black cherry, coffee and tobacco. Wines Unlimited,
Inc. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $25
88
Farnese 2010 Casale Vecchio (Monte
pulciano d’Abruzzo). Sometimes you need
a sturdy wine for a decadent TV night with pepperoni
and sausage pizza. This velvety-rich Montepulciano fits
the bill perfectly, thanks to its aromas of spice, blackberry, cinnamon and moist tobacco. Empson (USA) Ltd.
—M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $18
WineMag.com | 41
87
Caldora Vini 2011
Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo. Perfectly suited for home-cooked
comfort meals like lasagna or meatloaf, this is rich,
dense and soft, with endnotes of blackberry, cherry and
tobacco. Vin Divino. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
87
Pasetti 2007 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
Definitely on the warm and jammy side, this
easygoing Montepulciano delivers aromas of black
berry, dried fruit and cured meat. This would pair well
with roast pork stuffed with prunes. Old Bridge Cellars.
—M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
86
Capestrano
2010
Montepulciano
d’Abruzzo. The flagship red grape in Abruzzo is Montepulciano, and this expression shows a light
and informal side to the native variety. Soft, velvety tannins frame the plump black-cherry fruit. Vias Imports.
—M.L.
Price: $12
abv: 13%
86
Farnese 2011 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
Stock your pantry with this wine to pair with
take-out pizza or easy pasta dishes at home. This delivers soft tannins and a sweet cherry flavor. Empson
(USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
86
Talamonti 2010 Modà (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). Jammy fruit, raspberry preserves, espresso, leather and tobacco form the nose of
this dense, bold Montepulciano. The tannins are soft,
smooth and velvety. Panebianco. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
OTHER RED WINES
91
Farnese 2007 Opi Riserva (Colline Teramane). This hearty red is packed tight with superintense aromas of black fruit, leather, tobacco and
roasted espresso bean. Bold, big and meaty, this is richly extracted and inky dark. Pair it with aged Pecorino
cheese. Empson (USA) Ltd. —M.L.
abv: 14%
Price: $35
87
Rontana 2008 Sangiovese (Colli di
Faenza). This Sangiovese from central Italy offers abundant freshness and pretty aromas of wild berry,
almond, cola and dried ginger. There’s a touch of dried
herb and licorice that gives the wine a bright, buoyant
finish. Imports Inc. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
87
Tenuta Amalia 2010 Bio-571 (Sangiovese
di Romagna). Made with organically farmed
Sangiovese, this pretty red delivers savory aromas of
spice, cola and steak sauce, with cool, fruit intensity and
bright acidity on the finish. Wine Emporium. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $14
86
Caldora Vini 2011 Terre di Chieti. Available at an attractively low price, this Sangiovese
shows easy berry aromas with soft accents of blue flower
and diced almond. The wine’s natural freshness makes it
perfect to pair against cheesy pasta dishes. Vin Divino.
Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
86
Farnese 2011 Terre di Chieti. Toasted almond, wild berry, plump cherry and wild raspberry open the nose on this Sangiovese, which has
the varietal’s characteristic freshness as well. Empson
(USA) Ltd. Best Buy. —M.L.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
86
Pasetti 2010 Diecicoppe (Colline Pescaresi). A blend of Montepulciano, Merlot and
Cabernet, this offers savory aromas of leather, tobacco,
spice and dark fruit. There’s a tangy note of cured meat
and teriyaki on the close. Old Bridge Cellars. —M.L.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
85
Angelini 2007 Riserva Sangiovese (Colli Pesaresi). This opens with ripe aromas of
candied fruit and sweet prune. There’s a touch of crisp
cherry cola, with a general tartness on the finish. Angelini Wine. —M.L.
Price: $25
abv: 14%
84
Angelini 2008 Sangiovese (Colli Pesaresi). Almost rosé-like in color and personality,
this light, Sangiovese-based wine delivers bright acidity and layers of wild berry and pink flower. Angelini
Wine. —M.L.
abv: NA
Price: $17
ARGENTINA
CHARDONNAY
87
Rutini 2011 Trumpeter Chardonnay
(Mendoza). Walnut, banana, apple and vanilla
aromas are nicely presented. The palate holds its own
as far as structure, while the melon, apple and honey
flavors are friendly. This is a better-than-you’d-expect
Chardonnay for everyday drinking. Pasternak Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
85
Trapiche 2011 Broquel Chardonnay
(Mendoza). This has apple and nectarine aromas that are a touch briny. It shows good acidity and
mouthfeel, with flavors of apple, peach and even some
green bean. The Wine Group. —M.S.
Price: $15
abv: 14%
84
Trapiche 2011 Finca Las Palmas Chardonnay (Mendoza). This is oakier and more
expensive than prior Trapiche Chardonnays, but it’s not
necessarily better. It smells like a rubber band and a
barrel, bearing resiny flavors of mango and melon, with
lots of sweet oak and vanilla tones. The Wine Group.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
84
Valentin Bianchi 2011 Elsa Chardonnay
(Mendoza). Apple and white fruit aromas
set up a balanced, reasonably full palate, with banana,
creamy oak, vanilla and apple flavors. It feels solid and
round, with a clean finish. Quintessential Wines. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 13%
83
Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Chardonnay (Mendoza). Mild varnish and lacquer aromas stem from the oak influence, and there’s
not a lot of fruit to offset those notes. It feels plump
and a bit clumsy, with briny citrus flavors leading to a
pickled, resiny finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
82
Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Chardonnay
(Mendoza). After light scents of butter and
spiced apple surface, the wine turns briny and pickled,
both in aromas and flavors. It feels fleshy on the finish, with briny stone-fruit and citrus flavors. The Wine
Group. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
81
Telteca 2011 Roble Chardonnay (Men
doza). A nutty apricot aroma marks the nose.
It feels creamy and sticky, with sweet vanilla and baked
fruit flavors. With time it turns more cloying. Fleischer
International Trading, Inc. —M.S.
Price: $13
abv: 13.5%
81
Trivento 2011 Reserve Chardonnay
(Mendoza). Light on the nose, it feels tangy
in the mouth, with sharp flavors of mustard, brine and
lime. This finishes with a pickled flavor. Banfi Vintners.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
SAUVIGNON BLANC
87
Pulenta Estate 2011 VI Sauvignon Blanc
(Mendoza). There aren’t many Argentine Sauvignon Blancs that make a statement, so this is commendable for showing a lightly citric and minerally nose
in front of fresh, citrusy flavors of lime, tangerine and
grapefruit. More friendly and easygoing than intense
or pungent, it fades quick and easy on the finish. Paul
Hobbs Wines. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $16
84
Árido 2011 Sustainably Farmed Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). Oyster shell and
matchstick aromas come with distant peach and melon notes. Feels good but rudimentary, with peach and
papaya flavors that end soft and easy. Drink this immediately for maximum zest and freshness. San Francisco
Wine Exchange. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $10
84
Bodega Norton 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Mendoza). A touch of minerality on the nose
comes with apple and lemon aromas. It feels fleshy, with
pulpy white-fruit flavors that end with honeydew and
papaya notes. Drink now. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
83
Funky Llama 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Mendoza). Papaya, lime and peach aromas
are basic but clean. The palate, too, feels basic and
clean. Flavors of orange and citrus pith lead to a fleshy,
sweet-tasting finish. Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
83
Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Mendoza). This smells a bit oily
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and like a match, with additional aromas of white fruits
and corn flakes. It feels pulpy but just crisp enough,
with pithy grapefruit and sweet papaya flavors. It tastes
candied on the finish. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
Toneles del Sur 2011 Torrontés (Mendoza). Mellow and melony up front, with a
plump, bland palate featuring mealy melon and peach
flavors. The finish has a touch of bitterness. Wine Brindis Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $15
TORRONTÉS
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Trapiche 2011 Broquel Torrontés (Cafayate). Every year this wine seems to get better.
This vintage deals notes of lemon pie, melon and lychee
on the bouquet, which is followed by a palate that’s oily
yet racy. Flavors of lychee and pineapple are true to
Torrontés, while green herb and lime notes stir things
up. The Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
87
Matias Bertona Wines 2011 Inspiratto
from the Andes Torrontés (Mendoza).
Vanilla cookie and stone fruit aromas set up a creamy,
mostly fresh-feeling palate, with flowery papaya and
green banana flavors. It’s tropical in style, with complexity and length to the finish. Wine Brindis Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $18
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Trivento 2011 Reserve Torrontés (Mendoza). Clean and basic up front, with peach
and white flower aromas. It feels juicy, with just enough
body, bearing fruit salad flavors of nutmeg-dusted white
grapes, apple and peach. It turns dry and almondy on
the finish. Banfi Vintners. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $11
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Zuccardi 2011 Serie A Torrontés (Salta).
This is extremely aromatically pungent, with
notes of honeysuckle, melon and lychee blasting up
from the glass. It shows body and an oily quality, with
orange, kumquat and peach flavors. This is round,
showing a citrus rind flavor on the finish. Winesellers
Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Valentin Bianchi 2011 Elsa Torrontés
(Mendoza). Tropical and friendly, this feels
a little bulky and chunky, but with enough acidity for
balance. Flavors of citrus and mango are medium intense, while the finish is soft. Drink soon. Quintessential
Wines. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
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Callia 2011 Reservado Torrontés (San
Juan). This is neutral on the nose except for
green banana and white grapefruit hints. It feels melony, with flavors that match the mouthfeel in the form of
melon and nectarine. This is flabby on the finish, needing more cut and zest. Palm Bay International. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Telteca 2011 Uma Colección Torrontés
(Mendoza). Oily and mustardy on the nose,
then inconistent and not real clear on the palate. It
tastes like briny melon and apricot, turning a bit flat on
the finish. Fleischer International Trading, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $9
Pascual Toso 2011 Estate Bottled Torrontés (Mendoza). This is not a consistent wine
year to year. Some vintages are true and vital, but this
is clunky, with flavors of honeyed white fruits and bitter
almond skins. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
OTHER WHITE WINE
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Martino 2011 Old Vine Pedro Ximénez
(Mendoza). This is briny and oily on the nose,
with grapefruit aromas. It feels citrusy in the mouth,
with bitter nut and citrus flavors that turn pithy and
more briny on the finish. Southern Wine Group. —M.S.
Price: $16
abv: 13.5%
BONARDA
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Trapiche 2010 Broquel Bonarda (Men
doza). Saturated and pitch black to look at, and
not much different in scent. This is a fully extracted,
modern Bonarda that’s well made and generous. Fullbodied wine lovers should like the meaty, dark berry
and cocoa flavors. Tannic but layered on the finish. The
Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
88
Gardel 2010 Vendimia Especial Bonarda
(Mendoza). This is fresh, showing plenty of
pop on the fruit-filled bouquet. It feels wide and jammy,
yet grabby and dry because of its firm tannins. Typical of
Bonarda, it’s full of ripe black-fruit flavors and licorice,
while the structured finish makes for a good ending.
Frontier Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $20
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Alfredo Roca 2010 Dedicación Personal
Bonarda (Mendoza). This is earthy, rubbery
and big on the nose, which isn’t unusual for Bonarda.
The tannins clamp down on the palate, tasting roasted,
with hickory and smoked meat flavors sticking out. It’s
dense but not very active on the finish. Hand Picked
Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $21
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Gardel 2011 Colección Bonarda (Mendoza). Red and black fruit aromas open the nose.
The palate feels healthy, with tight tannins and charging flavors of blackberry and dark plum. Pair this with
a burger, pasta or pizza. Frontier Wine Imports. Best
Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $11
83
Argento 2010 Bonarda (Mendoza). This
smells rubbery and like cured meat, and it’s not
very fruity. It clunks across the palate with squeaky tannins, a lot of weight and foresty, herbal plum flavors.
Distinguished Vineyards & Wine Partners. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
CABERNET FRANC
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Lagarde 2010 Single Vineyard Cabernet
Franc (Luján de Cuyo). Earthy plum and
berry aromas are suggestive of Bordeaux, but the brown
sugar and baked fruit angle is all Mendoza. Snappy acidity helps the wine stay trim, while linear raspberry and
cherry flavors are red in character. This is gripping with
an acidic push to the finish. Dangerous Wine Group.
—M.S.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $29
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Lamadrid 2010 Single Vineyard Reserva
Cabernet Franc (Agrelo). Black fruit, leather
and licorice aromas are draped all over this heavyweight
Cabernet Franc. It feels tannic, with aggressive flavors
of bullish black fruit. This is flavorful at every point, but
hard and abrasive in feel. Vino Del Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $17
82
Pulenta Estate 2009 Gran XI Cabernet
Franc (Mendoza). Extremely herbal and vegetal, this is also saturated and syrupy on the palate. Flavors of green bean, mushroom, tomato paste and baked
berry are undeniable. It hints at something better but
requires too much patience to find it. Paul Hobbs
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $NA
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
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Trapiche 2008 Finca Las Palmas Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Cola, tree bark
and rooty aromas become more oaky and toasted with
airing. It feels solid and correct, with balanced tannins
and acids that stage red plum, cassis, coffee and toasted
flavors. Staying toasty and composed on the finish, this
is a ripe Cabernet Sauvignon that delivers. The Wine
Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
90
Trapiche 2008 Gran Medalla Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mendoza). A bit rustic and briary,
this has a foresty aroma along with a rooty note and a
hint of cola. It feels big and acidic, but the cassis, blackberry and herbal flavors are authentic and hit firmly.
The finish is long, mildly herbal and juicy, with weight
and power to spare. The Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $46
88
Familia Cassone 2008 Obra Prima Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Cola,
root beer and cherry aromas come with controlled heat.
The palate is dense and chewy, with pumped-up tannins
supporting very ripe-tasting cassis and cooked plum flavors. It’s toasty and spicy on the firm finish. Bedford International. —M.S.
Price: $21
abv: 15%
88
Pascual Toso 2009 Alta Reserve Barrancas Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon
(Mendoza). This smells familiar and solid, with blackberry, licorice and dark cherry aromas. It feels medium
bodied for a high-end Argentine Cabernet, with healthy
acidity and probing tannins. The flavors of blackberry
WineMag.com | 43
and raspberry finish crisp and slightly citric. T.G.I.C.
Importers. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $35
and molasses flavors. Finishes bitter, dark and herbal,
with gripping tannins. Tasted twice. Kobrand. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $12
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Trapiche 2010 Broquel Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). For full review see page 9.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Finca Perdriel 2009 Colección Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Straightforward
aromas of black currant and dark plum help create a
rich style of Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a syrupy palate
that’s made firmer by driving tannins. It features a lot
of chocolate, baked black-plum and mild herbal flavors.
It’s ultraconcentrated, and more driving than discerning. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
87
Salvatore Principe 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). At first, this smells charred
and meaty, but blackberry, leather and roasted plum
aromas soon sneak out. This runs big, with good acidity and manageable tannins. Flavors of cherry and cassis are lively and familiar. Prestige Wine Group. Best
Buy. —M.S.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
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Menduco 2011 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Penetrating cola, mint
and black fruit aromas are probing. It feels tight and
gripping, tasting forward and correct for the variety,
with bell pepper, black fruit and spice flavors. This is robust, with good flavors and quality fruit. Carolina Wine
Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
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Rutini 2011 Trumpeter Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This is dark, smoky and
minty at first, turning more earthy, leathery and warm
as it opens. It feels big and sort of tough, with smoked,
roasted flavors of savory berry and rooty cola. It finishes
tannic and rubbery. Pasternak Wine Imports. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
85
Alta Vista 2010 Premium Cabernet Sau
vignon (Mendoza). Hard, minty, oaky and
even a touch chemical on the nose, then tough as nails
in the mouth. Tastes resiny and minty, with black fruit
flavors and extreme tannic clamp. Chocolaty tasting on
the finish, which retains the wine’s hard personality.
Tasted twice. Kobrand. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Finca El Origen 2011 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). Leathery berry aromas are earthy and suggest notes of cured meat
and cheese. It gets tougher and more tannic the more it
breathes, with black fruit, herb and spice flavors. Generous but rough in feel, it has a powerful, medium-long
finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
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Alta Vista 2010 Classic Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Somewhat murky and
smelling of compost and green berry fruit. Feels full
and wide, with a hard palate containing milk chocolate
Michel Torino 2010 Don David Finca La
Urquiza #8 Cabernet Sauvignon (Cafayate). A green and herbal style of northern Argentine
Cabernet Sauvignon, this smells like tobacco, green
bean, bell pepper and oregano. Quite tannic in feel, it
bears a roasted herb flavor, finishing savory but green.
Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
81
Canoas 2010 Estate Collection Cabernet
Sauvignon (San Juan). Grapy and jammy
smelling, this feels narrow and high in acid, bearing
plum and tart cherry flavors that turn more sour with
time. The finish is tomatoey and abrupt. HGC Imports.
—M.S.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $10
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Familia Cassone 2011 Finca La Florencia
Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). This is
saturated, flat and flabby on the nose, with pudgy blackberry aromas. It has a static, jammy mouthfeel, tasting
overspiced and heavily oaked. Bedford International.
—M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
MALBEC
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Trapiche 2009 Finca Jorge Miralles Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). For
full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
94
Trapiche 2009 Finca Domingo F. Sarmiento Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta).
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
94
Viña Alicia 2008 Coleccion de Familia
Brote Negro (Luján de Cuyo). For full review see page 5. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90
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Doña Silvina 2007 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Big and modern, this has simmering
aromas of turned earth, graham cracker, leather, plum
and blackberry. It feels megasaturated but well balanced, with hugely ripe black-fruit, chocolate and toasted marshmallow flavors. Warm and nearly Port-like,
this is full of toffee and fudge notes on the finish. It’s a
flashy, polished, 21st-century red wine. Mistica Wines
LLC. —M.S.
Price: $69
abv: 15%
93
Trapiche 2009 Finca Suarez Lastra Single Vineyard Malbec (La Consulta). For
abv: 15%
Price: $50
92
Cielo y Tierra 2007 Don Juan Nahuel Malbec (Mendoza). This opens with persuasive
aromas of wild berry and cassis before cola and leather
notes enter. It’s a powerfully built Malbec with bright
acidity, strong bones and pure, bold flavors of blackber-
ry and black cherry. This is youthful and more fruit focused than the oakier DJN 2006 Reserva Malbec. The
Sorting Table. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $32
92
Enrique Foster 2006 Limited Edition Malbec (Luján de Cuyo). For full review see
page 6.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $47
92
Trapiche 2008 Gran Medalla Malbec
(Mendoza). Smooth and polished, this bears
cola, earth, blackberry and floral aromas. It shows power and precision, with silky tannins, integrated acidity and deep flavors of berry, leather and herb. This is
slightly minty, smoky and spicy on the back end, where
fine oak takes charge. Drink now–2015. The Wine
Group. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $46
91
Bodega Norton 2009 Privada Malbec
(Mendoza). Spunky right off the bat, this has
floral and fresh fruit aromas that fall squarely into the
wild berry category. It feels lively on the palate, with
spiked acidity but enough weight and depth to absorb
it. This tastes like a mix of plum, blackberry and chocolate, and the finish darkens up with notes of pepper and
spice. Drink now–2017. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
Price: $30
abv: 14.5%
91
Familia Cassone 2008 Obra Prima Coleccion Gran Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). The bouquet is stylish and rooty, with black-fruit
and chocolate scents leading the charge. It shows good
structure, meaning it’s full but not too thick or jammy.
Flavors of ripe blackberry and plum are generous and a
touch rubbery, while the finish is full and mildly tannic.
Bedford International. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
91
Finca Perdriel 2009 Colección Malbec
(Mendoza). This is a cuddly, jammy, ripe Malbec with maple, blackberry and oak aromas. It feels
weighty and lush, with large-scale boysenberry, blackberry and blueberry flavors. It turns a little soft and basic on the finish, but there’s no griping about this wine’s
purity and fruit content. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
91
Trapiche 2008 Finca Las Palmas Malbec
(Mendoza). A high-end Malbec experience
at a reasonable price, this boasts rich aromas of cola,
graphite and boysenberry that leap from the glass. The
palate is bright and just thick enough, with wild berry,
cherry, plum and oak-based flavors. Another whack of
oak, along with vanilla, chocolate and tobacco flavors,
graces the finish. Drink now–2015. The Wine Group.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
90
Cielo y Tierra 2006 Don Juan Nahuel
Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). This is floral,
exotic and candied smelling, with supporting notes of
dusty cocoa and toasty oak. It feels saturated and inky,
with a density that borders on too much. Roasted berry, foresty spice, herb and jammy berry flavors set up
the woody, menthol-flavored finish. From Gustavo San-
taoalla, an Argentine musician and composer. The Sorting Table. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $41
mark the finish. Carolina Wine Brands USA. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
oak tone and flavors of raspberry, chocolate and grainy
wood. Terlato Wines International. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
90
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81
Lagarde 2009 Primeras Viñas Malbec
(Luján de Cuyo). The jammy, sweet berry
aromas are suggestive of blueberry, cookie and graham
cracker. It feels condensed and a bit reduced, with mild
tannins and flavors of blueberry, blackberry and herb
accents. It’s not rough but definitely ripe and flamboyant, with a big, jammy personality. Dangerous Wine
Group. —M.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $49
90
Matias Bertona Wines 2008 Inspiratto
from the Andes Reserve Malbec (Mendoza). This smells toasty up front, with aromas of tree
bark, earth and shoe polish. It runs deep and rich on the
tongue, with a syrupy feel and flavors of graham cracker,
tobacco, berry pie and herb accents. The finish is good
but seems a little hollow, with rooty, herbal flavors that
linger. Wine Brindis Importers. —M.S.
Price: $22
abv: 14%
90
Terrazas de Los Andes 2008 Single Vineyard Las Compuertas Malbec (Luján de
Cuyo). A bit leafy and earthy on first take, but this
also smells of roasted meat, berry fruit and menthol. It
feels layered and rich, with drying tannins and full-force
plum and herb flavors. This is big, dark and herbal,
finishing with hints of leather, tomato and oregano.
Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $45
90
Toneles del Sur 2008 Reserve Malbec
(Mendoza). This is rooty smelling, with licorice, root beer, tar and smoky notes accenting berry fruit
aromas. It feels unctuous but manages to hold onto its
balance, and the flavors of baked berry, black plum and
savory herb are on the money. The finish is chewy in
feel, with a slightly herbal character. Wine Brindis Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
89
Enrique Foster 2007 Firmado Malbec
(Mendoza). This is a pushy wine with aromas
of rubber, pencil eraser, leather, blueberry and oak. It
has the tannic grip that creates a certain roughness,
while blueberry and spice flavors have fire to them, especially on the finish.. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $93
89
Lamadrid 2008 Single Vineyard Gran
Reserva Malbec (Agrelo). Saturated on the
nose, this has aromas of pencil lead, coconut, vanilla and
black fruit. It feels tannic, with pulsing acidity pushing
raisin, prune, black plum, licorice and graphite flavors.
The finish is oaky, resiny and chocolaty tasting. Vino Del
Sol. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
88
Menduco 2011 Reserve Malbec (Uco Valley). Concentrated blackberry and black currant aromas are ripe and come with a balsamic note.
It feels juicy, full, lively and fresh, with oaky dark-plum
flavors accented by rooty, herbal notes. Dry tannins
Bodega Norton 2011 Malbec (Mendoza).
Ripe red-fruit flavors are nice and normal, while
the palate feels fresh and lifted by balancing acids. Focused raspberry and plum flavors are clean and don’t
push the oak envelope. Overall, this is lively and fun.
T.G.I.C. Importers. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
Fabre Montmayou 2011 Phebus Malbec
(Mendoza). Aromas of dark berry, rubber and
a smoky quality define the bouquet. It feels nice, with
a slight tannic grab and likable flavors of red berry and
pepper. Short on the finish, but it’s fresh and clean.
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $NA
Pascual Toso 2009 Alta Reserve Barrancas Vineyards Malbec (Mendoza). Not as
good as in previous vintages, this has a distinct minty,
shrill quality to the otherwise leathery and foresty bouquet. It feels a bit raw and high in acidity, with plum
and herb flavors. Modest on the finish, this stays fairly
minty and herbal while remaining fresh. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
Price: $35
abv: NA
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Gardel 2011 Colección Malbec (Mendoza). Dark and minty smelling, this bears hints
of blackberry, perfume and violet. It feels good and not
too forceful, with regular Malbec flavors of dark fruit,
red plum and spice. The finish is firm and slightly medicinal. Frontier Wine Imports. Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: NA
Price: $11
85
Alma del Sur 2011 Colección Malbec
(Mendoza). The fresh berry aromas are solid,
and the palate is plucky and lively, with plenty of acidity to push the ripe, standard Malbec flavors of blackberry and spice. It shows some tartaric crispness and
bite on the finish, but tastes right. Martin Scott Wines.
Best Buy. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
85
Bodega Norton 2011 Lo Tengo Malbec
(Mendoza). Black fruit aromas come with
a dusty note and a hint of milk chocolate. This feels
straightforward, with flavors of raspberry, mild herb
and sugar beet. The finish is short and easy, with an approachable mouthfeel. T.G.I.C. Importers. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
84
Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2011 Lote 44
Malbec (Mendoza). A lot of oak hits hard,
with initial scents of shoe polish and black tar. This is
rubbery, big and forward stuff, with loud plum, berry,
toast and oak flavors. The finish stays minty, toasty and
slightly bitter. Terlato Wines International. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
83
Bodega Cuarto Dominio 2011 Tolentino
Winemaker’s Selection Malbec (Mendoza). Meaty plum and berry aromas come with dark,
demanding, minty aromas that are similar to this winery’s Lote 44 bottling. It feels astringent, with a resiny
Finca Flichman 2011 Reserva Malbec
(Mendoza). Nervy plum and wet-dog aromas
set up a firm palate that’s herbal tasting. Licorice, medicinal berry and green notes surface on the finish. Evaton, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $13
Ñandú 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). The lighter-style nose that focuses on red plum and cherry is a welcome change from all of the heavy Malbecs
out there, but the wine doesn’t follow through on the
palate. It becomes astringent, with tastes of tomato,
stewed berry and cranberry. Polaris Wines, Inc. —M.S.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $17
Funky Llama 2011 Malbec (Mendoza).
The nonexpressive berry and cherry aromas are
closed. Light in feel, this tastes of citrus, plum and rhubarb. The lightweight finish is mildly herbal and green.
Vision Wine & Spirits. —M.S.
Price: $8
abv: 12.5%
80
Toca Diamonte 2010 Malbec (Mendoza). While this smells floral and candied, the
palate rages, courtesy of strapping acidity that creates
tart plum and blueberry flavors. Prestige Wine Group.
—M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $5
PINOT NOIR
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Trapiche 2011 Broquel Pinot Noir (Mendoza). Little by little Trapiche is improving its
Pinot Noirs, evidenced by this authentic, lightly perfumed wine. It’s fresh, bearing good acidity and roasted
berry and leaf flavors. It finishes with mild tomato and
herb accents. This gets better with time in the glass. The
Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
85
Pulenta Estate 2010 Gran XV Pinot Noir
(Mendoza). Leafy and smoky smelling, this
has lean cherry and raspberry aromas in the backdrop.
This is a tight and linear wine, with strawberry and raspberry flavors that pick up speed. Overall it’s juicy, jumpy
and legit, but nervy. This may benefit from more bottle aging. Only 512 cases were produced. Paul Hobbs
Wines. —M.S.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
85
Trapiche 2011 Oak Cask Pinot Noir (Mendoza). For full review see page 13. Best Buy.
abv: 14%
Price: $10
82
Alfredo Roca 2011 Pinot Noir (Mendoza).
Spearmint and soft berry aromas turn toward
raisin. This feels wide and flabby, with a lot of oak and
resin notes in its frame. This is quite oaky, spicy and
minty for Pinot Noir. Hand Picked Selections. —M.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $14
81
Amadores 2010 Pinot Noir (Mendoza).
This smells like a forest fire, but it’s also creamy
WineMag.com | 45
and roasted. Tangy and tart, this features narrow plum
and cherry flavors that are powered by blazing acidity.
Mistica Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
spice work well together. It finishes sweet but with a
touch of spice and vanilla. Baja Wines LLC. Best Buy.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
ish. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and
Tempranillo; drink now–2013. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $108
OTHER RED WINES
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Alfredo Roca 2011 Malbec-Merlot (Mendoza). Dusty berry and plum aromas set the
stage for a big, cheek-grabbing wine with red berry,
leather and light herb flavors. Toasty and minty, this
finishes with a touch of spice. This is a good blend of
60% Malbec and 40% Merlot. Hand Picked Selections.
—M.S.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $12
85
Altos de San Isidro 2009 Reserve Barbera (Salta). This smells roasted, leathery and
earthy, with a mouthfeel that’s solid if a bit scratchy. It
delivers an intense wild-berry aroma and some of Cafayate’s signature complex herbal character. Oaky vanilla and dill notes accent the finish. Vineyard Brands.
—M.S.
Price: $18
abv: 14%
84
Tempus Alba 2008 Tempranillo (Mendoza). The nose opens with animalistic scents
of leather, compost and barnyard. This has an average
mouthfeel, with somewhat herbal plum and berry flavors that finish short with a mild leafy character. Mistica
Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $15
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Wandering Grape 2011 Malbec-Merlot
(Mendoza). Raspy cherry aromas precede a
scratchy palate that’s characterized by its high acid-tobody ratio. It tastes a bit tart and generic, with a red
plum flavor in front of a fiery finish. This is light and
crisp in style. Prestige Wine Group. —M.S.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $11
MEXICO
WHITE WINES
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Casa de Piedra 2011 Piedra de Sol Chardonnay (Valle de Guadalupe). The apple
and popcorn aromas are good, and the wine was never
aged in a barrel. It feels crisp and flinty, with excellent
cut and acidity. Flavors of lemon and tangerine lead to a
long, citrusy finish with snap and tang. Baja Wines LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $23
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Moebius 2011 Endemico Muscatel (Valle de Guadalupe). Tropical aromas of lychee
and green banana are clean and inviting. The palate
feels lifted, fresh and easygoing, with lychee, banana
and pear flavors. It finishes pure and fairly long. Baja
Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $19
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Monte Xanic 2011 Chenin-Colombard
(Valle de Guadalupe). The peach, pear and
apple aromas get no interference from oak. The mouthfeel is friendly, while flavors of green melon, pear and
Monte Xanic 2011 Viña Kristel Sauvignon
Blanc (Valle de Guadalupe). Here’s a true
Sauvignon Blanc with spunky green aromas and plenty
of grapefruit. It feels citric and lemony on the tongue,
with citrusy flavors of tangerine and lime. It finishes
tight and zesty, like a good Sauvignon Blanc should.
Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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Viñas Pijoan 2011 Silvana (Valle de Guadalupe). Neutral on the bouquet, this has
clean, stony aromas that set up a surprisingly plump
palate with melon and lychee flavors. It finishes a bit
soft, but with more than acceptable acidity. It won’t age
for too long, but it sure tastes good now. Baja Wines
LLC. —M.S.
Price: $19
abv: 12.6%
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Paralelo 2011 Emblema Sauvignon Blanc
(Valle de Guadalupe). Overtly simple and
drying, this has crisp acidity and oily flavors of popcorn
and tart white fruits. It finishes with citrus and astringency. This would likely be better with seafood or salad
than on its own. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $21
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Lafarga 2010 Equinoccio Chardonnay
(Valle de Guadalupe). Waxy smelling and
gritty, with an oily overtone, this feels O.K. but sort of
wayward, with flavors of bitter grapefruit and matchstick. Simple and somewhat sour on the finish. Baja
Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $21
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Viñas de Garza 2011 Blanco del Rancho
Mogorcito (Valle de Guadalupe). This is
nutty and minerally on the nose, and barely citric as far
as fruit aromas go. On the palate, there’s bitterness, with
a grapefruit tang making up the flavor profile. A blend
of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. Baja Wines LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
RED WINES
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Viñas de Garza 2007 Amado IV (Valle de
Guadalupe). A world-class wine regardless of
origin, this Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo
and Zinfandel blend is as full as they come, with alluring black cherry, cola and graphite aromas. The mouthfeel is smooth and rich, with a wave of cola, molasses
and chocolate along with black cherry and blackberry.
Sweet, dark, smoky and long on the finish. Drink now–
2014. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $54
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El Sombrero 2009 Red (Valle de Guadalupe). Ripe and rich, but not dull or out
of whack, this smells sweet, a little soupy and densely
fruity, with a cumin accent. It feels concentrated and
full bodied, with black fruit flavors of roasted plum and
blackberry. It’s mellow, dealing brown sugar on the fin-
Vinisterra 2007 Pedregal Syrah-Mourvedre (San Antonio de las Minas Valley).
This red blend of 67% Syrah and 33% Mourvedre immediately announces itself as serious and classy. The
bouquet is layered with berry fruit and baking spice
aromas that aren’t hard or pushy. It feels stout and secure, with its structure supporting flavors of concentrated berry, pepper and baking spice. The long finish keeps
its form. Drink now–2015. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’
Choice. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $45
90
Paralelo 2009 Hotel 5 Estrellas (Valle de
Guadalupe). A blend of Tempranillo, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Grenache and Cinsault, this
smells spicy and earthy, with cola, leather and dusty berry aromas. Focused and pure feeling, it bears flavors of
berry, plum, cherry, caramel and vanilla cream. Lightly stewed on the finish, but it’s excellent overall. Drink
now–2015. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
Price: $40
abv: 14.7%
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Tres Valles 2010 Jalá (Valle de Guadalupe). This blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and
Grenache is clean, pure and 100% balanced. Aromas of
fresh berry, rubber and baking spice lead to berry, plum
and chocolate flavors. Smooth on the finish, with purity
and length. Baja Wines LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Rincón de Guadalupe 2008 Tempranillo
(San Vicente). Arguably Baja’s best varietal
Tempranillo, this 350-case production is round, clean
and fruity on the bouquet, with brown sugar and molasses along with big black-fruit aromas. It feels full, tannic
and balanced, with sweet plum, chocolate and berrysyrup flavors. This is more than generous on the finish.
Drink now–2014. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $36
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Viñas de Garza 2007 Colina Norte (Valle de Guadalupe). Tight, earthy and focused
up front, this has attractive berry and cola aromas. It
feels jammy, flush and lush, then tastes equally jammy and rich, with plum and berry flavors that seem
baked and warm. Candied tasting on the finish, but
fresh enough in feel. This is a blend of Tempranillo,
Grenache and Carignan. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $54
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La Lomita 2009 Singular (Valle de Guadalupe). Roasted berry, dry oak, bacon, leather,
graphite and spice aromas come together on the nose.
It feels jammy, thick and chewy, with full tannins setting
up flavors of baked berry and molasses. It finishes similarly, with a rich, full texture and a candied flavor. This is
a blend of 80% Cabernet Franc and 10% each Cabernet
Sauvignon and Merlot. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $40
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Rincón de Guadalupe 2008 Brisas del
Sur (San Vicente). Sweet, earthy and dry
smelling, with tobacco and savory soy aromas. Tomatoey acids pushing raspberry, plum, vanilla and tobacco
flavors. Oak-based vanilla and tomato flavors are also
present on the finish, which is fresh and lively. Only 250
cases made. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $26
vors of plum and berry. It finishes with the same herbal,
Bordeaux-style flavors that give the palate an Old World
character. Not as good as the 2008. Baja Wines LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Viñas Pijoan 2009 Doménica (Valle de
Guadalupe). This is light on the nose, with almost airy aromas of raspberry and cherry. Fuller and
more grabby in the mouth, it has firm tannins and sweet
flavors of berry and cherry darkened by a toasty accent.
A little fiery on the finish, it has mild heat that food will
tame. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $22
Vinisterra 2007 Macouzet Syrah (Valle de
Guadalupe and Santo Tomás). Relying on
fruit from the Guadalupe and Santo Tomás valleys, this
wine shows a core red-berry aroma that settles on cassis and cherry notes. It’s bright, acidic and fruity, with
wild berry, plum and brown sugar flavors. This is long
and powerful on the finish due to its juicy acidity. Baja
Wines LLC. —M.S.
Price: $30
abv: 13.7%
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Monte Xanic 2008 Gran Ricardo (Valle de
Guadalupe). Spicy and exotic smelling, this
bears aromas of tobacco, blueberry and cumin. It feels
heavy, grabby and supertannic, with mildly herbal flavors of peppery berry fruit and chocolate. Prune, berry
and earth notes work the finish on this meaty, tannic big
boy. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $52/1.5 L
Tres Valles 2009 Elegancia Shiraz (Valle de Guadalupe). Dense cherry, plum and
black currant aromas carry a note of latex as well as bacon. Feels fiery and powerful, not elegant or lifted, with
untamed, slightly syrupy flavors of plum, berry, chocolate and cough medicine. Powerful Shiraz that seems
more boozy than its listed 14% abv. Baja Wines LLC.
—M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $40
Lafarga 2008 Equinoccio Nebbiolo (Valle
de Guadalupe). Dense, heavy and meaty on
the nose, this has stewed plum and earth notes. Heavy
tannins make it grabby, while the flavors suggest stewed
black fruits. Roasted tasting, it hits hard on the finish.
Entirely different from Italian Nebbiolo. Baja Wines
LLC. —M.S.
Price: $45
abv: 13.8%
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Monte Xanic 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Valle de Guadalupe). Smoky, oaky and peppery up front, with balsamic berry aromas and tree bark
notes. It feels thick, creamy and a little awkward, with
heavy oak flavors, related spice and savory, stewy notes.
As it unwinds it’s chunky and heavy, with a sweet molasses note on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
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Emevé 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Valle
de Guadalupe). Briary on the nose, this has
disjointed aromas of plum, cinnamon and wet cement.
It’s jumpy, acidic and not very well balanced, with tart
red-plum and cherry flavors. It feels edgy and gritty,
with an almost sour finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $24
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Vinisterra 2011 Dominó Cinsault (San
Antonio de las Minas Valley). Slightly sweet
on the nose, but wheaty and grassy too. It tastes like clay
and bubble gum, with a touch of peach and citrus. It’s
acidic on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 12.2%
Price: $15
CALIFORNIA
CHARDONNAY
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Joseph Phelps 2010 Pastorale Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Undoubtedly the greatest Chardonnay the winery has ever produced, this is as rich as any Chardonnay on the market.
Notes of tropical fruit, green apple and crème brûlée
mesh with vibrant minerality that’s steely, chalky and
tangy. Although it tastes of honey, the finish is completely dry. This might even develop earthy, nutty complexities as it ages. —S.H.
Price: $75
abv: 13.5%
94
Joseph Phelps 2010 Freestone Vineyards Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For
abv: 13.5%
Price: $55
HQSA 2009 Xikbal Baja (Valle de Guadalupe). This is spicy and dusty on the nose, with a
hint of agave and roasted berry aromas. Feels full, good
and zesty, with driving black-cherry, plum and raspberry
flavors. It shows herbal shadings and fresh tomato on
the finish. This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with
Syrah and Carignan. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $20
Tres Valles 2009 Maat Grenache (Valle de Guadalupe). Hot and heavy from first
whiff, this has plastic and red pepper notes, with a sweet
strawberry aroma. It’s thick as syrup on the palate, with
extracted, fully ripe flavors of blackberry and raisin.
Maat means “the land” in a native language; but it could
mean syrupy sweet. Hard to believe this is just 13.5%
abv. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
Migration 2010 Dierberg Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Rich, opulent
and balanced, this has a wealth of orange and tropical
fruit flavors, with spicy, caramelly oak and layers of with
buttered toast and honey. Vibrant coastal acidity provides essential lift to this elaborate Chardonnay. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Viñas Pijoan 2010 Convertible Rojo (Valle de Guadalupe). Winemaker/owner Pau Pijoan’s tribute to fast, fun cars is encapsulated in this racy
red blend of Ruby Cabernet (motor), Petit Sirah (turbo
charger), Barbera (transmission) and Colombard (suspension). It’s strapping and shows a lot of acid, while
the flavors of berry, cherry and chocolate are good but
monotone. This is fruity, flavorful and not complicated.
Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $21
86
La Lomita 2009 Pagano Grenache (Valle
de Guadalupe). Opaque in color, with smoky
aromas of bacon, berry purée, latex and dried herbs.
Feels saturated and grapy, with big, plodding tannins
in front of soft, stewed flavors of blackberry and prune.
Darkens up on what amounts to a soft finish. Pure Grenache. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 14%
Price: $25
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Mogor Badan 2009 Red (Valle de Guadalupe). This is slightly stalky and burnt smelling, with briary aromas. It feels choppy, with roasted fla-
Vinisterra 2008 Dominó (Valle de Guadalupe and Santo Tomás). This wine opens
with pepper, leather and stalky berry aromas. It feels
sticky in the mouth, with stalky, buttery berry flavors
that fall off rather quickly. Sweet but that’s about it on
the finish. Tempranillo, Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $19
Emevé 2009 Shiraz (Valle de Guadalupe).
This has aromas of smashed berry and red licorice candy. It feels raspy and resiny, with flavors of toasted oak and jammy blueberry and raspberry. It’s wiry and
lacking finesse on the finish. Baja Wines LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13%
Price: $23
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La Escuelita 2008 Txtura 3 Carignan (Valle de Guadalupe). Baked and bricky smelling, with notes of applesauce and blueberry. It feels
snappy with edgy tannins. Cranberry and spice flavors
lead to a scouring finish; 100% Carignan. Baja Wines
LLC. —M.S.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $27
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Parallel 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). So rich, so opulent, this is fantastic
to enjoy now. It really nails it, with intricate flavors of
buttered toast, butterscotch, honey and vanilla that ride
high on top of the pineapple and tropical fruit flavors.
The winery is best known for Cabernet Sauvignon, but
with this release, it’s competing at the highest level of
quality Chardonnay. —S.H.
Price: $48
abv: 15.2%
Baldacci 2010 Sorelle Chardonnay
(Carneros). For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $38
93
Marimar Estate 2008 Dobles Lías Don
Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 5.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $45
93
Matanzas Creek 2009 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). Unbelievably rich, this tastes
pretty much as excellent as the winery’s more expensive
Chardonnays. It really dazzles with its complex flavors
of tropical fruit, green apple, pear, buttered toast and
WineMag.com | 47
honey. It’s all brightened by terrific acidity and wrapped
into a creamy texture. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $26
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Migration 2010 Split Rail Vineyard Chardonnay (Anderson Valley). With rich, honeyed flavors of apricots and oranges, this flashy, dramatic Chardonnay seemingly tastes as sweet as a pastry, but
the amazing thing is that it’s actually dry. It’s brisk in
coastal acidity, with complex nuances of toasty oak and a
creamy mouthfeel. For drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $45
93
Shafer 2010 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay (Carneros). Another terrific offering
from Shafer, this is a wine that seems to do well regardless of the vintage. It always shows a firm minerality and
slight herbaceousness, with tropical fruit flavors and a
smoky coating of fine oak. It’s a shade less opulent than
the 2009, making this very elegant and refined, yet still
rich and complex. Don’t drink it too cold—airing brings
out subtle nuances. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $48
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Thomas Fogarty 2009 Damiana Vineyard
Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa Cruz
Mountains). This vineyard has been source to some of
Fogarty’s greatest Chardonnays, and this 2009 bottling
continues the tradition of excellence. It’s bone dry and
tart in acidity, with smoky oak and lees influences. But
the real star of the wine is the fruit; the flavors of lemon
and lime custard, papaya, guava and nectarine are delicious. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
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Thomas Fogarty 2009 Portola Springs
Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay
(Santa Cruz Mountains). The closest thing in California you can get to a great French Chablis, this is absolutely dry, high in acidity and streamlined. It offers
tantalizing citrus rind and peach fruit flavors, with a savory taste of cold minerals. Fans of rich, buttery Chardonnay will find it lean, but if you have a cellar, age it
for six years and see how it evolves. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
92
Houdini 2010 Dean Block Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). For full review see page 6. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $25
92
Migration 2010 Chardonnay (Russian
River Valley). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
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Migration 2010 Charles Heintz Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Showing the
richness of the vineyard, this delivers huge, flamboyant
flavors of apricot and tangerine jam. While it’s technically dry, there’s a honeyed sweetness that suggests a touch
of botrytis. It’s a strong wine, unafraid to command a
boldness that may not be for everyone. This is distinctly
Californian in style, and as it loses fruit with age, it will
develop nut and earthy notes. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $55
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Pessagno 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard
abv: 14.8%
Price: $32
good price for a Santa Lucia Chardonnay this rich and
appealing. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
Price: $25
abv: 14.5%
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Pessagno 2009 Intrinity Chardonnay
(Santa Lucia Highlands). Pessagno’s Chardonnays are always big and strong wines, as befits their
growing conditions in the cool foothills of the coastal
Monterey mountains. This is monumental in fruit,
bursting at the seams with ripe apricots and tangerines,
sweetened with honey, yet finishing dry. It’s a wine to
pair with elaborate fare. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $45
Robert Mondavi 2010 Reserve Chardonnay (Carneros). This bottling always strives
to avoid a heavy hand and express more of a terroirdriven Chardonnay. This is bone dry, tart in mouthwatering acidity and complex in citrus, tropical fruit and herb
flavors. It’s not an opulent attention getter, but instead
prefers to seduce through subtlety and nuance. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.5%
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Stephen Ross 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyards Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley).
Delicious and crisp in acidity, this is dry despite its flavors of honey and ripe, jammy tropical fruit. How this
wine achieves such a quality is magic, but the brisk acidity helps, as does its stony minerality. Ready to enjoy
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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Thomas Fogarty 2009 Albutom Vineyard
Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa Cruz
Mountains). Some will find this Chardonnay severe
and lacking in richness as it’s marked by dryness, minerality and acidity, rather than tropical fruit and sweet
oak.It would not be surprising if this wine made gains
in 5–6 years, but even if it doesn’t, it defines a more
elegant style. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $50
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Thomas Fogarty 2009 Langley Hill Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa
Cruz Mountains). Fogarty continues its streak of
great, Chablis-style Chardonnays with this single-vineyard bottling. True afficionados will love the dryness,
acidity and minerality, which give it such great structure. The severity is relieved by flavors of citrus zest
and white peach, and the creamy sourdough richness
imparted by lees aging. Try aging it for at least six years.
—S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
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White Oak 2010 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review
see page 7.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $24
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Windstream 2010 Sarmento Vineyard
Insanely rich, this explodes in the mouth with orange,
pineapple, apricot, tropical fruit and sweet new-oak flavors. The richness is tempered with crisp acidity and a
minerality that tastes like a lick of cold steel. This is a
Cuvaison 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros).
The winery strikes a happy balance between
richness and elegant austerity with this bone-dry offering. It’s minerally and reserved, offering intriguing hints of apricots and tropical fruits, with notes of
buttered toast and smoky vanilla of new oak that many
Chardonnay lovers crave. With 29,000 cases produced,
this should be relatively easy to find. Editors’ Choice.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $23
Gloria Ferrer 2009 Estate Chardonnay
(Carneros). For full review see page 7. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
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Saracina 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay
(Mendocino County). With a very pretty
nose of perfumed pear, green apple and lime, this unoaked Chardonnay is nicely soft and easy to drink. Made
from organic Chardonnay and a touch of Viognier, this
smells and tastes of summer. Even without a hint of oak
this retains plenty of richness and a fresh vibrancy on
the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
90
Riverbench 2011 Bedrock Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This never went
through malolactic fermentation, resulting in a beautiful, food-friendly offering. First noticed is the brisk
acidity that’s like a squeeze of sweet Meyer lemon,
brightening the tropical fruit and pear flavors. Then the
wine’s intensity and complexity sink in, leading to a long,
spicy finish. Pair this with Asian fare. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
90
Saxon Brown 2009 Durell Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is a very rich,
elaborate Chardonnay, detailed with pineapple, pear,
and apricot flavors, and a coating of sweetly smoked,
vanilla-tinged oak. The acidity is brisk and fine. It’s complex and impressive, yet its high alcohol and some overripeness suggest that it’s not ageable—drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
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Sonoma-Loeb 2010 Envoy Chardonnay
(Russian River Valley). This is the winery’s
most expensive Chardonnay, and it’s also easily their
best. It shows the ripe, flashy opulence that makes
Chardonnay America’s favorite white, with an array of
pineapple and orange pie flavors. Beyond the richness,
there’s good acidity and a clean, brisk finish. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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Von Holt 2010 Heintz Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Flavors of toasty oak,
butter cream, ripe tangerine and pear combine in this
dry, pleasantly complex effort. It’s properly brisk in acidity, with a long, spicy finish of pie spice and vanilla bean
notes. Don’t drink it too cold. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $35
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Joullian 2010 Sleepy Hollow Vineyard
This shows the two classic markers of this vineyard:
brisk, mouthwatering acidity and superripe flavors.
The orange and peach notes meld with an apricot tone,
which may have a touch of botrytis, lending a hint of
honey. For all the richness, it’s bone dry and minerally.
Lovely now, but these Sleepy Hollow Vineyard Chardonnays age interestingly, gradually losing fruit and
gaining nut and earthy notes. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $33
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Stephen Ross 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Rich, forward and delicious, this has pineapple and peach jam flavors, with
elaborate notes of buttered toast and caramel from the
oak aging. It finishes dry. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Amos Cellars 2010 Churner Chardonnay
(Central Coast). Crisp and lean, with mineral,
lemon and ripe grapefruit flavors, this is enriched with a
sweet note of honey. The acidity is keen, and while the
wine is a little severe, it’s so elegant. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $24
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Joullian 2010 RogerRose Vineyard Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco). Fine acidity, dryness
and a cold minerality undergird the tropical fruit flavors, making it particularly likeable and food friendly.
It showcases the ability of this little appellation in the
middle of the Salinas Valley, just below the Santa Lucia
Highlands, to ripen white wines. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $29
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Justin 2011 Chardonnay (Central Coast).
Bone dry, acidic and subtle in citrus and tropical
fruit flavors, this is a Chardonnay that doesn’t insist on
standing on its own. Instead, it’s perfectly content to let
the food star, remaining in a supporting role. For pairings, lobster risotto comes to mind, or just a delicious
mayonnaise-based sandwich. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $19
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Shale Canyon 2010 Chardonnay (Arroyo
Seco). Brisk acidity and a steely, minerally dryness make this Chardonnay particularly savory. The citrus
flavors suggest limes and Meyer lemons, with suggestions of toast and vanilla. It’s an elegant wine and easily
worth the price. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $20
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The Federalist 2010 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Here’s a racy, chiseled
Chardonnay, with a pleasant veneer of smoky, buttered
toast from new oak that enriches the lime and peach
fruit. Elegant rather than powerful, it’s a food-friendly
wine. Try with lobster risotto. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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Artesa 2010 Estate Reserve Chardonnay
(Carneros). This oozes with sweet oak, honey
and buttered toast flavors, with added notes of pineapple cream and peach jam. Few Chardonnays are this
opulent; it will have its fans among those who love this
style. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
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Dierberg 2009 Chardonnay (Santa Maria
Valley). Ripe and oaky, this offers the sweet
fruit and buttered toast flavors Chardonnay lovers
crave. It tastes like a candy bar, with pineapple, mango,
roasted almond and honeyed granola flavors, all brightened with crisp acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Foggy Oaks
Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Some
new oak lends a sweet, smoky edge of buttered toast to
this ripe Chardonnay. Its pineapple and pear flavors are
highlighted by crisp acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
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Icaria 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Alexander Valley). This has everything that many
people love about Chardonnay: It’s creamy, buttery
and toasty, with sweet tropical fruit and pear flavors. It’s
pretty flashy. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $18
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Jason-Stephens 2010 Estate Select
Chardonnay (Santa Clara Valley). This
is the oaked version of Jason-Stephens’s estate-grown
Chardonnay. It’s rich and deep, yet still smooth, with
the grape’s trademark apple crispness. The finish lingers
with an apple pie note. —V.B.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $30
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MacPhail 2010 Gap’s Crown Vineyard
Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This shows
the apricot jam richness often found in California’s
cool-climate vineyards. There may even be a touch of
botrytis, although the wine is thoroughly dry. It’s brisk in
acidity and well-oaked; big and rich, it’s almost a cocktail
by itself. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Stephen Ross 2010 Chardonnay (Edna
Valley). This is rich and appealing in orange
and lemon marmalade and buttered toast flavors. It’s
delicious, balanced by crisp acidity and minerality. A
flashy wine worth drinking now for its freshness and vicacity. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Wayne Gretzky Estates 2010 No. 99 Chardonnay (Sonoma County). The price is very
good for what you get: a dry, creamy Chardonnay, with
tropical fruit, vanilla and buttered toast flavors. A good
job by the ice hockey great. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Fleur 2010 Chardonnay (North Coast). A
solid Chardonnay, this is dry, rich and creamy,
with lemon, lime and tropical fruit flavors. A touch of
oak brings a nice note of buttered toast. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $13
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Jason-Stephens 2010 Estate Chardonnay (Santa Clara Valley). This is a stainlesssteel-aged Chardonnay with splendid streaks of lemon,
honey and kiwi that surround a core of tart apple. It’s balanced with good acidity that greets you on the entrance
and on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $20
Lockwood 2010 Chardonnay (Monterey
County). This has slender flavors of tangerine
and peach. It’s elegantly dry, clean and brisk in acidity,
with a light touch of smoky oak—definitely worth the
price. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
McManis 2011 Chardonnay (River Junction). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Riverbench 2010 Estate Grown Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). This is a fairly simple wine. Although it’s rich in apricot, orange and tropical fruit flavors, not to mention oak, it’s a little overripe
and seemingly sweet. The vanilla and buttered toast flavors will appeal to many. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
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Stemmler 2010 Chardonnay (Carneros).
Sweet oak and buttered toast flavors dominate
this Chardonnay. Underneath there are flavors of pineapple, pear and orange. It’s rich, dry and bright in acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $34
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Walt 2010 La Brisa Chardonnay (Sonoma
County). This is pretty standard, with good
acidity pervading tropical fruit flavors. There’s a rich
overlay of sweet oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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William Hill Estate 2010 Chardonnay
(Napa Valley). Rich and buttery, this has
smoky oak and toast flavors that frame the pineapple
and orange jam notes. Not overly complicated, this is
made in a way that appeals to Chardonnay lovers. Production was a hefty 16,500 cases. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Cable Car 2010 Chardonnay (Lodi). For
full review see page 12. Best Buy.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Chamisal Vineyards 2010 Estate Bottled
Chardonnay (Edna Valley). New oak stands
out in this slightly sweet Chardonnay, giving a butterscotch taste to the pineapple and fig fruit. It has pleasant acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
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Five Rows 2011 Chardonnay (California).
There’s lots of sweet oak in this wine, with dominant flavors of buttered toast, buttered popcorn and vanilla. Underneath there’s some nice apricot and tangerine fruit. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $14
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Gracianna 2011 Suzanne’s Blend Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This tastes
a little vegetal, but it’s dry, crisp and creamy, with decent
orange and peach flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $34
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House Band NV Chardonnay (California).
abv: 13.8%
Price: $5/375 ml
WineMag.com | 49
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Kunde 2010 Kinneybrook Vineyard Chardonnay (Sonoma Valley). Seemingly sweet
and oaky, this has buttered popcorn, buttered toast and
caramel cream flavors. The fruit suggests pineapples
and pears. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $24
J. Wilkes 2010 Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Seemingly overly oaked and manipulated, this is all about buttered toast and buttered
popcorn flavors, slathered over a note of pineapple jam.
—S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $18
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Sean Minor 2010 Chardonnay (Central
Coast). There’s lots of zesty acidity in this ripe,
forward Chardonnay. It features fruity flavors of oranges
and apricots, with a touch of oak that lends a buttered
toast note. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Arrow Creek 2011 Coastal Series Chardonnay (California). Modest orange and
peach flavors are found in this oak-tinged wine. It offers
the Chardonnay lover good pleasure. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
ine and vanilla flavors. It would be a wonderful companion to modern Asian fare. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
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Lost Angel 2010 Chardonnay (California). Seemingly sweet and simple, this has orange and butterscotch candy flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
Santa Barbara Winery 2009 Lafond Vineyard Dry Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). This is,
as the label says, a dry Riesling, but it’s not without richness. With lemon, lime, apricot and Asian pear flavors,
it has wonderful acidity. It would be great with today’s
complex Asian-fusion fare. —S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $18
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Snapping Turtle 2011 Chardonnay (California). Simple and seemingly sweet, this
Chardonnay has apricot jam flavors. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $11
VIOGNIER
Hacienda 2010 Riesling (California).
Crisp acidity gives this off-dry Riesling just the
edge of tartness it needs to balance out the sweet citrus
and flower flavors. It’s the perfect inexpensive summer
picnic white wine. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
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Black Box 2011 Chardonnay (California).
A good Chardonnay to serve at parties, this
shows plenty of oak-driven vanilla and toast flavors that
ride high over the seemingly sweet note of pineapple
candy. It will satisfy lots of Chardophiles, at an affordable price. Best Buy. —S.H.
Price: $25/3 L
abv: 13.5%
Chime 2010 Chardonnay (Napa County).
Simple and strongly flavored, this is powerful in
pear, vanilla and buttered toast notes. There’s not much
subtlety, but it will satisfy fans of this style. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $19
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Hess Collection 2010 Chardonnay (Napa
Valley). A simple Chardonnay, this seems
sweet in pineapple and peach jam notes, with buttered toast and honey flavors from oak. Flashy, but onedimensional. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $22
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Matchbook 2010 Old Head Chardonnay
(Dunnigan Hills). This crisp Chardonnay has
a disjointedness about it. Its aroma and flavor is most
akin to Lemonheads candy. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
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Newton 2009 Unfiltered Chardonnay
(Napa County). There’s a nice Chardonnay
down underneath all the oak, but it’s hard to find below the buttered toast and caramel richness. It would
be nice to taste an unoaked version, to appreciate the
acidity and pineapple fruit. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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San Simeon 2009 Chardonnay (Monterey). Extracted and oaky, this will appeal to
those who enjoy the popular style. It’s strong in buttered toast and butterscotch flavors, with a pineapple
jam note. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $18
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Greystone 2011 Chardonnay (California). An everyday Chardonnay, this has buttered toast, butterscotch candy and pineapple flavors.
It’s clean and brisk in acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
Chalk Hill 2010 Viognier (Chalk Hill). This
is a rich, flamboyant Viognier, showing lots of
ripe, fruity flavors and a nice burst of acidity. It’s high
in alcohol, which gives some prickly heat, but the pineapple custard, tangerine and crème brûlée flavors are
frankly delicious. —S.H.
Price: $40/375 ml
abv: 15.5%
10 Knots 2010 Viognier (Paso Robles).
Textbook Viognier—this is ripe and exotic in
tropical fruit, white flower and honey flavors. It’s technically dry, but so rich you’d swear there was some
residual sugar. With its strong texture and full body, this
is an interesting alternative to a big Chardonnay. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Wattle Creek 2010 Viognier (Alexander
Valley). Showing the rich, exotic side of Viognier, this has ripe, flamboyant flavors of tropical fruit,
white flower and spice. It has a controlled dryness and
citrusy acidity; this is a lovely, versatile white. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
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Cline 2011 Viognier (North Coast). This
seems designed to appeal to the Moscato-loving
crowd. It has sweet flavors, with apricot and tangerine
notes that taste like fruit juice. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
RIESLING
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Pessagno 2010 La Estancia Vineyard
Riesling (Santa Lucia Highlands). This
is one of the best California Rieslings available in this
price range. It’s bone dry and mouthwateringly acidic,
with racy citrus flavors and a tart, tannic tang of apple
skin. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
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Wente 2010 Riverbank Riesling (Arroyo
Seco). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $13
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Santa Barbara Winery 2010 Lafond Vineyard Riesling (Sta. Rita Hills). This falls
right in the middle of the winery’s dry and sweet Rieslings, with a suggestion of honey to the apricot, tanger-
Black Box 2011 Riesling (California). This
is a very nice Riesling for drinking with today’s
ethnic fare. Although it’s softer than you’d expect from
this normally tart varietal, it’s clean and spicy, with citrus, flower and honey flavors. The sweetness level is offdry. Best Buy. —S.H.
Price: $25/3 L
abv: 12%
Coastal Ridge 2010 Riesling (California).
If you like your white wines fruity and sweet,
this one’s for you. It has pretty flavors of peaches, honey
and spices. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $9
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ForestVille 2010 Riesling (California).
Sweet, soft and simple, this has candied lemon
and pineapple flavors. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $7
SAUVIGNON BLANC
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Robert Mondavi 2010 To Kalon Vineyard
Reserve Fumé Blanc (Napa Valley). A gorgeous Sauvignon Blanc, so rich and refined. It’s almost
as full bodied as a Chardonnay, with dense flavors of
citrus and tropical fruits, gooseberries and minerals,
but with that sleek, bone-dry, acidic refinement expected from this variety. Production was a mere 984 cases.
Drink now. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.5%
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Cosa Obra 2011 Hummingbird Hill Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast).
abv: 13.9%
Price: $24
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Robert Mondavi 2010 Fumé Blanc (Napa
Valley). Fumé Blanc is just another name for
Sauvignon Blanc, and this is a delicious one. Dry and
racy in acidity, it has deep citrus, tropical fruit and gooseberry flavors. At this price, it’s one of the best Sauvignon
Blancs on the market. Relatively easy to find, with more
than 30,000 cases produced. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $19
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Casey Flat Ranch 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Capay Valley). From Casey Flat’s 2,000-feethigh estate near Sacramento, this is a creamy, volup-
tuous Sauvignon Blanc that has reams of texture. It retains a lot of acidity and is rich and fruity, with a seamless midpalate. Its richness comes from extended skin
contact and lees stirring. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $23
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Bell 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). Light, fruity and clean, this was aged in all
stainless steel, showing delicious tones of tangerine and
lemon peel and a crisp, long finish, with a soft touch all
around. —V.B.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $22
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Casey Flat Ranch 2011 Open Range Sauvignon Blanc (California). Sourced from
both Mendocino and Lake counties, this is Casey Flat
Ranch’s accessible, affordable Sauvignon Blanc. Full of
bright tropical fruit and lemon aromas, this is true to the
varietal, with plenty of acidity to match well with food.
An addition of 5% Viognier is blended in. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $15
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Matanzas Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Bennett Valley). There’s a touch of honeyed
sweetness to this wine that gives it a softly appealing
taste. The orange, apricot, tropical fruit and vanilla flavors are absolutely delicious, while there’s just enough
acidity to lift and balance the richness. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $30
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Matanzas Creek 2011 Helena Bench
Sauvignon Blanc (Knights Valley). There’s
no oak at all on this Sauvignon Blanc, which lets the
fruit stand front and center. It’s good fruit, too, rich in
apricots, tangerines and tropical fruits, with a good cut
of acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Pomelo 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (California). This is a large-production Sauvignon
Blanc that tastes delicious. If you like grapefruit and
pomelo flavors, you will love this enticingly priced white
that’s got razor sharp acidity, a touch of New Zealandlike grass and a long finish. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
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Saracina 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Mendocino County). A full and creamy style of
Sauvignon Blanc, this has a lot of dense almond and
vanilla notes set against high tones of bright peach and
flint. With its great, fresh acidity, it will hold up against
an appetizer like goat cheese on crackers. —V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $23
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Shed Horn Cellars 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Lake County). This Sauvignon Blanc opens
with beautiful flowery aromas. It’s crisp and complex,
bearing intense notes of grapefruit and mineral, with a
kick of lime on the finish. This would go very well with
seafood or spicy Thai. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
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Duckhorn 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa
Valley). With vibrant acidity and a keen taste of
mineral—like a lick of cold steel—this Sauvignon Blanc
is also rich in citrus and tropical fruit flavors. A touch
of oak and lees aging imparts a creamy, smoky yeasti-
ness. More importantly, it has a seemingly sweet finish,
so pair accordingly with appropriate fare. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $29
Sauvignon Blanc, bursting with stone fruit and melon
flavors, with Lake County’s typical hints of lemongrass
and pear—particularly on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $20
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Gregory Graham 2011 Windrem Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County).
Working with a new vineyard source, Gregory Graham
has made a sweetly perfumed white, with pretty grapefruit and lime notes. Its well-integrated and layered
with flavor. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
Lockwood 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Monterey County). This is a stylish wine for a
cocktail sipper or to drink with foods ranging from fried
chicken to sushi. It’s crisp in coastal acidity and ripe in
citrus, melon and tropical fruit flavors. While there’s a
taste of honey, it finishes dry. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
Maddalena 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Paso
Robles). Bone dry and tart in acidity, this has
mouthwatering citrus and apricot flavors, with a clean
elegance. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
Price: $15
abv: 14.5%
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Matanzas Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Sonoma County). This tastes like a slightly
sweet lemon-, orange- and mango-juice drink, with lots
of citrusy acidity and a pleasant burn of alcohol. Delicious and savory, it will be a good companion to Asian
fare. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Rock Wall 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake
County). This smells of lemon cream and pear,
with dark, ripe and creamy layers of vanilla and fig, and
a nuttiness, too. Stainless-steel fermented, it’s a lovely
example of how this variety thrives in Lake County.
—V.B.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
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Shooting Star 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Lake County). Full of fig and grapefruit
flavor, this was never aged in oak. A small addition of
Sémillon adds to its richness and long finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $12
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Six Sigma 2011 Asbill Valley Sauvignon
Blanc (Lake County). With lilting lemon,
grapefruit and pretty pineapple aromas and flavors, this
is a good example of Lake County Sauvignon Blanc. It’s
light and bright, and the flavors on the finish veer into
equally pleasing peach and apricot notes, with a touch
of almond. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Sonoma Coast Vineyards 2011 Laguna
Vista Vineyards Sur Lees Selection Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Coast). This wine’s greenness shows that it’s not quite ripe, but it’s an interesting
wine. Dry, racy and creamy, this is not without complexity. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
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Vigilance 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Red
Hills Lake County). Balanced and affordable,
this is an example of a straightforward, well-nourished
Carr 2011 Dos Viñedos Sauvignon Blanc
(Santa Ynez Valley). This shows the racy
crispness and clean profile of Santa Ynez Sauvignon
Blancs, with delicious tropical fruit and citrus flavors.
However, it seems to have some sweetness, which
makes it taste a little like fruit juice. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
Geyser Peak 2011 Block Collection River Ranches Sauvignon Blanc (Russian
River Valley). Perhaps this wine could be drier, as the
orange and apricot flavors seem to finish with a touch
of sweetness. Still, it’s clean and brisk in acidity. This
should pair well with slightly sweet Asian fare. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Girard 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). Clean and savory, this has jammy orange
and apricot flavors, which finish with a touch of honey.
The acidity is bright and zesty. The chilly vintage shows
in the form of a touch of green mint. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $16
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Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Livermore Valley). A straightforward Sauvignon Blanc, this has hints of cheese rind
and lemon swirling within fistfuls of minerality that may
need more time to settle down. But Occasio is a name to
trust, and it should develop more flair with a bit of bottle
age and/or air. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Provenance Vineyards 2011 Sauvignon
Blanc (Rutherford). This is rich in citrus and
tropical fruits, with bright acidity that really cleans the
palate. It seems to tread the line between dry and offdry, and it shows real elegance. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $22
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Provenance Vineyards 2011 Wildwood
Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford).
If you’re into dry table wines, you should know this
seems to have a touch of sweetness. It has orange, apricot and vanilla flavors that are fortunately brightened
with crisp acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Wattle Creek 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Yorkville Highlands). With layers of nutty,
toasty oak flavors lingering in the background, this is a
Sauvignon Blanc with lushness to its core of melon, guava and grass notes. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
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Wildhurst 2011 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
(Lake County). With no time spent in oak,
this bright, simple Sauvignon Blanc has pear, grapefruit
and gooseberry notes and a quick finish. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Bogle 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (California). Easy to drink, with plenty of charm, this
WineMag.com | 51
shows orange, lime and tropical fruit flavors, brightened
with crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Chacewater 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake
County). Made from organically grown grapes,
this crisp white flirts dangerously with herb and grass
tones—what is often called gooseberry—before settling
down. It’s quite drinkable, if a bit heavy on the finish.
—V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $14
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Clos du Lac 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Amador County). Opening with a bouquet of dried
apricot and almond paste, this is a full style of Sauvignon
Blanc, with tons of lemon on the finish. Pair this with
seafood. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $10
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Sterling 2011 Vintner’s Collection Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast). This gets the
job done with classic varietal flavors of lemon, lime and
savory green grass, as well as tart acidity to get those
tastebuds watering. There’s an off-dry taste of honey,
but the wine is basically dry. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $13
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White Oak 2010 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). If you like tart, less-thanripe Sauvignon Blanc, you’ll enjoy this one. It’s acidic,
but relieved by lemon, lime and honey flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
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Decoy 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma
County). Dry and acidic, this has citrus and
green peppercorn flavors that are barely ripe. If you like
the lean style, this is for you. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Viognier smells of marshmallow, coconut and bubble gum. —V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $12
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Lost Angel 2009 Ruckus White (California). Made from a bunch of different varieties,
including Viognier and Pinot Grigio, this white blend
is off-dry, with a sweet edge to the orange and peach
fruit. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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LoveThisLife 2009 White (California).
Made to appeal to the modern taste for sweetness, this blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and
Viognier is simple in jammy apricot, citrus and tropical
fruit flavors. It has bright acidity, which helps balance
it. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $13
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Dry Creek Vineyard 2011 Sauvignon
Blanc (Dry Creek Valley). With no oak, what
you taste is the purity of the grapes. It’s a good Sauvignon Blanc, dry and crisp in acidity, with streamlined
lime and grapefruit flavors, with a hint of sweet pea.
—S.H.
Price: $16
abv: 13.5%
Frog’s Leap 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Rutherford). A simple Sauvignon Blanc, this
is dry and mouthwateringly tart. The lemon and lime
flavors have a green edge of gooseberry. —S.H.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $20
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Provenance Vineyards 2011 Estate
Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford).
Nice and crisp in acidity, with a brisk, clean mouthfeel,
this houses citrus and tropical fruit flavors. It seems a
little sweet, so don’t expect anything too dry. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $32
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Robledo 2011 Seven Brothers Sauvignon Blanc (Lake County). This is a slightly
sweet Sauvignon Blanc that’s shy on the nose, without
much depth or breadth. —V.B.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $22
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Guenoc 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lake
County). Guenoc and Langtry, its parent company, have made some great Sauvignon Blancs in their
time, showcasing Lake County’s good fortune with this
grape. This is a good effort, with a prevailing pineapple
note. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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hy.brid 2011 Sauvignon Blanc (Lodi). This
100% stainless-steel-aged Sauvignon Blanc has
a crisp, herbal mouthfeel, with a melon-like brightness.
Just a touch of green pepper and jalapeño muddle the
finish. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $8
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Pine and Brown 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Napa Valley). A simple little Sauvignon
Blanc, this is sweet and soft, with savory pineapple and
lemon jam flavors. Oak brings a touch of vanilla and buttered toast. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $30
Sean Minor 2010 Four Bears Sauvignon
Blanc (Sonoma County). With lots of acidity
and seemingly sweet lime, pineapple and tropical fruit
flavors, this Sauvignon Blanc has a sweet-sour taste, like
Life Savers candy. —S.H.
Price: $14
abv: 13.5%
Ancient Peaks 2011 Sauvignon Blanc
(Paso Robles). This wine seems unripe, and
while it’s nicely dry and crisp, it has an aggressive aroma
and flavor of tart lime. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO
88
Benessere 2010 Pinot Grigio (Carneros).
Zesty acidity and tantalizing citrus and spice flavors mark this Pinot Grigio. Nice to drink on its own as
an apéritif, this versatile wine will also pair with ethnic
fare —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $22
87
J Vineyards & Winery 2011 Pinot Gris
(California). There’s a sweet, orange and apricot jamminess to this Pinot Gris that will appeal to fans
of the style. It’s brisk in acidity, gaining additional pleasure from its creamy richness. Try pairing this with a
buttery omelet with ham. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
San Antonio 2010 Heritage Blanc (Central Coast). This is a simple wine, ripe in orange and pineapple flavors, with fine Central Coast
acidity. It seems sweet, like a cookie, appealing to those
who enjoy this style. —S.H.
Price: $18
abv: 14.9%
Farrier 2009 Andiron Semillon-Sauvignon Blanc (Alexander Valley). Slender
and simple, this has a green asparagus flavor that thins
the citrus and pear notes. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
82
Rare NV 4 Grape Blend White Wine (California). This seems so sweet, you could almost
classify it as a dessert wine. It has simple orange, pineapple and vanilla flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
81
Kenwood 2011 Vintage White (Sonoma
County). It’s hard to fall in love with this blend
of Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay. It has unripe
green flavors that border on ammonia. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $9
OTHER WHITE WINES
92
Black Box 2011 Pinot Grigio (California).
A wonderful Pinot Grigio that’s basically dry and
mouthwateringly crisp in acidity, with lemon and lime
flavors. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25/3 L
Chappellet 2010 Signature Chenin Blanc
(Napa Valley). Racy and brisk, clean and tart,
this shows Meyer lemon, lime, white peach, mineral
and white pepper aromas. Thankfully, it’s very dry in
taste, with exotic tropical-fruit, cashew and white flower
flavors wrapped into a creamy, smoky mouthfeel. One
of the best California Chenin Blancs in recent years.
—S.H.
Price: $30
abv: 14.1%
WHITE BLENDS
91
86
91
Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel Vineyard Chardonnay-Albariño (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 8.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $28
85
Peirano 2009 The Other White (Lodi). This
Lodi-grown blend of 65% Chardonnay, 25%
La Sirena 2011 Moscato Azul (Napa Valley-Paso Robles). Winemaker Heidi Barrett
was making Moscato way before the current craze started, so you can call her a visionary. Her 2011, an unusual
blend of fruit from Napa Valley and Paso Robles, is a
real crowd pleaser. Tasted in May of 2012, it’s a little
spritzy, which gives a nice, clean edge to the orange,
vanilla and white flower flavors. While it’s dry, there’s
a rich edge of honey. The alcohol is a refeshingly low
12.8% by volume. —S.H.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $30
88
Y Rousseau 2011 Old Vines Colombard
(Russian River Valley). This wine is strong
in acidity and green, mouthwatering gooseberry flavors.
It’s so dry, your palate seeks out whatever fruity relief it
can find, which comes in the form of limes, green apples
and a squirt of honey. Very clean and elegant. Editors’
Choice. —S.H.
abv: 12.8%
Price: $18
87
J. Wilkes 2011 Pinot Blanc (Santa Maria
Valley). This affordable bottling is worth seeking out. It tastes like of a hybrid of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, with creamy flavors of oranges and limes,
brightened by crisp acidity. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $12
87
Mahoney 2011 Las Brisas Vineyard Vermentino (Carneros). What a delicious,
mouth-watering wine to serve with appetizers. It’s crisp
in acidity and rich in orange, apricot and peach flavors
that finish a little sweet. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $15
84
Jacuzzi 2011 Arneis (California). Made in
a seemingly off-dry style, this offers simple but
pleasant apricot, peach and white flower flavors, with
bright acidity. It’s tastes similar to Pinot Grigio in many
respects. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $16
82
Balletto 2009 Estate Bottled Gewürztraminer (Russian River Valley). This is a soft,
simple wine. It shows good Gewürztraminer character
in its spiciness, but it’s mild in flavor, with a sweet finish. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $18
SPARKLING WINE
85
South Coast NV Ruby Cuvée Syrah (Temecula Valley). South Coast’s winemaker used
100% Syrah from the 2010 vintage to make this fun, red
sparkler, which was once upon a time known as Cold
Duck. It takes advantage of Syrah’s big, bold berry flavors, while smelling intensely sweet, like a Jamba Juice
smoothie. Very foamy on opening; let it settle and drink
it supercold. —V.B.
Price: $22
abv: 12%
ROSÉS
89
Isabel Mondavi 2011 Deep Rosé of Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). To call this
rosé deep is an understatement. In color and body, it’s
almost a red wine. But it does have the silky delicacy of
a blush wine, and is frankly delicious in cherry jam, red
licorice and Dr. Pepper flavors. It finishes thoroughly
dry, and the acidity is racy. —S.H.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $20
89
La Clarine Farm 2011 Syrah-Mourvèdre
Rosé (Sierra Foothills). Winemaker Hank
Beckmeyer presses Syrah and Mourvèdre to make this
rosé, hoping that in the process he’ll best preserve the
wine’s aromas and also keep it tasting fresh. He’s created a nutty wine that’s dominant in strawberry and stone
fruit flavors. It’s very light and dry, leaving you with the
impression of having just bitten into a piece of watermelon. —V.B.
Price: $16
abv: 12.7%
88
Miraflores 2011 Estate Barbera Rosé (El
Dorado). Made from 100% Barbera, this has
perfumed aromatics and flavors of raspberry and peach.
It’s sweetness is in check—ideal for food with some
heat, like Thai or Mexican. —V.B.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $17
87
Clos du Lac 2011 Chalaye Rosé (El Dorado County). Ruby dark in hue, this has a light
fruity aroma of watermelon, strawberry and mint. It’s
easy drinking and dry. Its slow buildup of acidity lingers
on the finish. Best Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $10
87
Occasio 2011 Del Arroyo Vineyard Rose
of Pinot Noir (Livermore Valley). Picked
underripe, the Pinot Noir grapes for this wine spent no
time in oak and retained plenty of natural acidity, which
accents the thick, intense strawberry and cherry-vanilla
flavors that pop on the midpalate. Finishes with some
zing, so sip this with or without food. —V.B.
Price: $22
abv: 14%
87
Rock Wall 2011 Uncle Roget’s Grenache Rosé (Yolo County). A wisp of a wine
that’s dark-salmon in color, this is made entirely from
Grenache grapes grown near the town of Davis. It’s dry,
light and fun, offering a strawberry and watermelon
fruitiness, with a trace of spice on the end. —V.B.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
86
Field Stone 2011 Heritage Block Rosé of
Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley). Full bodied and rich, as you’d expect a Petite Sirah rosé would
be, this has cherry and sweet toast flavors, with a certain
elegance. The winemaker suggests pairing this with sausages. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
86
Matchbook 2011 Rosé of Tempranillo
(Dunnigan Hills). A light, dry, and yummy
wine made from Tempranillo, Syrah and Malbec. It has
berry and watermelon flavors—even a hint of mint—
with a balance of acidity and richness on the finish. Best
Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $10
85
Chamisal Vineyards 2011 Estate Bottled
Rosé (Edna Valley). Slightly sweet and heavy
on the palate, this has raspberry jam and vanilla flavors.
It’s balanced by crisp Edna Valley acidity—a wine that
will pair nicely with ham or sausage. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $24
85
MacPhail 2011 Rosé of Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). A little heavy for a rosé, this
has jammy raspberry and cola flavors. But it’s nicely
dry, with crisp acidity. Try with tempura or a juicy ham
burger. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
85
Santa Barbara Winery 2011 Rosé of Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). Here’s a simple rosé,
dryish and tart in acidity, with savory flavors of cherry
skin and rose-hip tea, with a squirt of honey. Ham sandwiches and sausages come to mind as food companions.
—S.H.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $15
84
Curtis 2011 Heritage Rosé (Santa Barbara County). This is a ruggedly simple blush
wine, with lots of acidity and some green tea and dried
herb flavors. It’s saved by a just-in-time flavor of black
cherry candy. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $18
83
Rare NV 4 Grape Blend Rosé (California). Simple and silky, this is fairly sweet in
apricot and raspberry fruit. This is easy to drink at picnics and similar everyday occasions. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $10
CABERNETS & BLENDS
99
Colgin 2008 IX Estate Red Wine (Napa
Valley). This is an absolutely beautiful wine to
drink now, but the richness comes at the price of considerable alcohol. The color is dark and impenetrable,
the aromas huge in Cabernet-inspired blackberries and
black currants, with a touch of something herbal and
also a stony minerality. There’s also a fascinating peatiness, like an Islay Scotch. It really opens up in the glass,
becoming ever more complex. It’s great Napa Valley
Cabernet Sauvignon, but that high alcohol may limit its
ageability. —S.H.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $290
99
David Arthur 2009 Elevation 1147 Estate
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For
abv: 14.8%
Price: $150
98
Von Strasser 2009 Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain).
abv: 14.1%
Price: $70
97
Gandona 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). A dramatic wine, this is rich,
full bodied and incredibly complex, laced with notes
of ripe, sweet blackberries and crème de cassis, with a
spirituous heat from relatively high alcohol. Its pedigree
is clear throughout the entire tasting experience. This
is a really gorgeous Cabernet, showing refinement and
grace, but it is very tannic. Give it at least 10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $190
97
Ovid 2009 Red Wine (Napa Valley). With
a beautiful purple color, this wine quickly exhibits classic Cabernet aromas of black currants and cedar.
In the mouth, it’s full bodied and concentrated, showing powerful, sweet blackberry fruit. It’s incredibly refined, impressively structured, massive, impeccable and
frankly delicious. This should develop over the next 20
years, at least. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $195
96
Bryant Family 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Rich and smooth in tannins,
with some sharpness through the finish, this shows
WineMag.com | 53
masses of ripe blackberries and dark chocolate. A bit
of time in the glass reprises and accentuates the chocolaty richness. Despite its power, this is refined and high
toned, a serious cellar candidate. Give it 10–15 years.
Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $335
96
Duckhorn 2008 Monitor Ledge Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is
an extraordinarily ripe, flashy Cabernet Sauvignon, one
of Duckhorn’s new red wines that is among the most impressive in years. The wine is densely packed in sweet
red and black currant fruit, chocolate and licorice flavors, wrapped into firm tannins, with a bone-dry finish.
Just fantastic to experience now, and it should easily develop over at least a decade. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $95
96
Duckhorn 2008 Patzimaro Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Huge, rich
and flamboyant, this hasa sweetness at its core—like
the essence of red and black currants, with an elaborate
note of caramel imparted from smoky oak. Yet everything about it is utterly and properly dry. The vineyard is
in St. Helena, not quite in the Spring Mountain appellation, yet showing the fruit concentration firm tannins
of mountain-grown grapes. Just a stupendous wine; try
after 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $95
abv: 14.5%
96
Montagna 2009 La Presa One South Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Absolutely
delicious and a joy to drink, this tastes like fine blackberry preserves spread onto buttered whole-wheat toast,
sprinkled with cinnamon and black pepper. Despite the
rich sweetness, the finish is bone dry. But the tannins
are considerable, giving the mouthfeel a furry astringency. This elegant, pure, young Cabernet should begin
to open in 10 years. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $125
96
95
Von Strasser 2009 Sori Bricco Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). This portion of the winery’s vineyard always
yields Cabernets of enormous concentration with hard
tannins. The 2009 is a classic, detonating in the mouth
with laserlike blackberry and cassis flavors, to which
new oak brings additional richness of smoky cedar. It’s
really a beautiful wine, but very tannic, even by Von
Strasser standards. Give it at least eight years, and it
could be drinking well 20 years from now. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $80
95
Von Strasser 2009 Spaulding Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). This has so much rich earth and minerality, it’s
like a journey deep into a mine. It’s noted the vines
were planted in 1970, and the wine does have that oldvine concentration of fruit in the form of massively intense blackberries. Then there’s the smoky new oak,
which adds such a lusciously sweet jacket of buttered
toast. Tannic and tight in the way of Diamond Mountain
Cabernets, this should begin to come into its own after
2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $80
abv: 14.1%
94
Chappellet 2009 Pritchard Hill Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). For full review
see page 4.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $135
94
Duckhorn 2008 Rector Creek Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). So
rich and seemingly sweet in black currant, chocolate
fudge and toasted oak flavors, you can hardly keep from
drinking the whole bottle now. But that would be a mistake. You don’t want to age it so long that all the fruit
drops out, but 8–10 years in the cellar should do just
fine. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $95
94
Piña 2009 Ames Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). For full review see page 3.
Cellar Selection.
abv: 15%
Price: $85
(Howell Mountain). For full review see page
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
96
94
Von Strasser 2009 Agira Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). An
awesome wine—this is so massively intense in blackberry, blueberry and cassis flavors, it’s hard to believe.
From the first sip though the middle palate, it’s seemingly sweet with a fruity essence, but the finish is dry
and firm. Drink now and for 8–10 years, at the very
least. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $80
95
La Sirena 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). You will want to age this Cabernet—8 or 10 years of development is the only way
to allow the hard tannins to begin to melt away, allowing the fabulous core of blackberries, currants and dark
chocolate to emerge. It’s hard to exaggerate the wine’s
depth; it’s so elegantly pure, concentrated and focused.
Don’t even think of popping the cork before 2018, and
it could still be providing pleasure 20 years from now.
abv: NA
Price: $150
Montagna 2009 Tre Vigneti Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This starts out
closed and tight, shut down by tannins and immaturity,
but plenty of swirling reveals elusive black-licorice and
blackberry notes, accented by smoky oak. The tannins
really kick in toward the middle, but hard as they are,
they exhibit great breed. Despite its sweet core of fruit,
this is nowhere close to being ready. Give it 10 years.
Price: $50
abv: 14.7%
94
Parallel 2009 Black Diamonds Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Very rich, ripe and
dramatically textured, this has explosive flavors of blackberry, crème de cassis, dried herb and smoked meat
flavors, enriched by smoky oak. It shows the tough, hard
tannins you often find in low production mountain Cabernets. Made by the well-known consulting winemaker,
Philippe Melka, it has the structure of a wine that needs
age. Give it at least eight years, and it could be one that
lasts decades. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
Price: $125
abv: 14.8%
94
Piña 2009 Firehouse Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Rutherford). For full review see
page 4. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $85
94
Piña 2009 Wolff Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Yountville). For full review see page
abv: 15.2%
Price: $85
94
Von Strasser 2009 Vineyard 2131 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). Very
pure in blackberries and black currants, this expresses
the classic taste of Cabernet Sauvignon. New oak adds
a lovely veneer of smoky, cedary cigar box. It’s beautiful
to drink now for the soft, velvety texture and appealingly sweet complexity, but should age gradually for many
years. —S.H.
Price: $80
abv: 14.1%
93
D.R. Stephens 2009 Moose Valley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley).
Flashy and delicious, this just blows your mind. It’s like
the essence of the ripest, purest blackberries, with a
note of crème de cassis and the sweet appeal of melted
dark chocolate. It’s a soft wine, but grippy in tannins,
which gives it good structure. Your best bet may be to
drink it over the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $135
93
Duckhorn 2008 The Discussion Estate
Grown (Napa Valley). For full review see
abv: 14.5%
Price: $125
93
Korbin Kameron 2008 Cuvée Kristin Estate Blend Red Wine (Sonoma Valley).
abv: 14.2%
Price: $55
93
Melanson 2009 Matthew’s Block Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). With its big,
hard tannins, this is one for the cellar. There’s a certain
austerity that suggests the rocky soils of this mountain
vineyard. But the fruit, packed into a dense core, is ripe
and suggestive of blackberry and cherries. The youthful brawniness softens after some time in the glass or
decanter, but you’re best off aging it until 2019 or so.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $67
93
Topel 2007 Extended Elevage Cabernet
Sauvignon (Howell Mountain). There’s
something about this wine that strongly suggests it will
improve in the cellar after a good bit of aging. As it is,
it’s dry, smooth, tannic and intense, with concentrated
blackberry and black currant flavors, and a buttered
toast note from aging in oak. It’s completely delicious,
but if you can keep from popping the cork, it should reward after 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $50
93
Villa del Lago 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This starts out a bit coarse,
with strong tannins that have a rough-edged feeling. It’s
very rich in blackberries and black currants, but showing more power than elegance. Time in the glass certainly opens it up, revealing a rich, heady cassis note.
While the alcohol is high, it may easily develop bottle
complexity over the next 10–15 years. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $225
93
Von Strasser 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Diamond Mountain). An enormously appealing Cabernet, this is nearly as good as the magnificent but more expensive ’09 Estate, showing concentrated blackberry, blueberry, cassis and mineral flavors
that are wrapped into firm Diamond Mountain tannins.
Beautiful to drink now and over the next six years. Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $45
93
Von Strasser 2009 Post Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). Notable for its richness and structure, this offers the most
delicious blackberry, cassis and toasted oak flavors. Firm
minerality and intense tannins provide a solid foundation for all the richness. Drink now–2017. —S.H.
Price: $80
abv: NA
93
Wallis Family Estate 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Diamond Mountain). A great followup to the winery’s 2008, this continues a roll of classy
Diamond Mountain-based Cabs from Wallis Family. It’s
dry, softly tannic and likeable for its depth of blackberry,
cherry, currant and cedar flavors. This straddles the line
between immediate drinkability and ageability. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $65
92
Cobblestone 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Atlas Peak). Absolutely delicious, this floods
the mouth with rich flavors of blackberry jam, crème de
cassis, cocoa and smoky, buttery oak. It’s soft and gentle,
so it may not be one for the cellar, but it sure is great to
drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $44
92
D.R. Stephens 2009 Walther River Block
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is
very rich, with flavors of melted milk chocolate, black
cherry pie, black currant, toasted almond, brown butter and smoky oak. Tastes like a granola candy bar, but
a very expensive one, with gorgeous tannins and a long,
sweet, mind-blowing finish. It’s hard to imagine aging
anything this soft and delicious—drink soon. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $125
92
Korbin Kameron 2007 Estate Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). For full
review see page 6. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $40
92
La Sirena 2009 Pirate TreasuRed (Napa
Valley). Whatever the blend is on this red
wine, and winemaker Heidi Barrett isn’t saying, it’s really interesting. The bottle is old-fashioned and stubby,
like something from the 1700s. The wine itself is immediately likeable for its spicy array of spices and berries.
Despite its upfront appeal, there’s a complexity that elevates it. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $60
92
Super Sonoman 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Knights Valley). Flashy and delicious,
this could even grow in the bottle with a few years of
aging, becoming earthier and drier in fruit. Otherwise,
it’s perfectly fine now—a soft, complex wine, with brisk
acidity and flavors of blackberry, black currant and
mocha. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $85
92
Super Sonoman 2007 Meritage (Sonoma
County). Dry, rich and intricate, this is clearly
capable of aging. The tannins are still pretty fierce, and
buried under them is a dense core of blackberry and
currant fruit—a testament to the near-perfect vintage
conditions. The Bordeaux-style blend is mainly based
on Cabernet Sauvignon. Give it until 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $75
91
Kendall-Jackson 2008 Grand Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County).
Close in quality to Cabernets costing far more, this has
elaborate blackberry, cherry and currant flavors. The
all-important mouthfeel is dry and crisp, with fine tannins. It’s not an ager, but shows plenty of class. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
91
Markham 2008 The Philanthropist Yountville Estate Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is bone dry, with plenty of
acidity and tough tannins. It’s not offering much relief,
despite an evident core of blackberries, currants and
cherries. Those tannins really lock the palate down, like
a sandpaper straitjacket on the tongue. But you have to
consider its origin in Yountville, a cool area noted for
ageable wines. It hould begin to resolve its difficulties
by 2016. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
91
Meyer Family 2009 Fluffy Billows Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). If the name
of this wine suggests that it’s comforting to drink now,
it’s perfectly apt. Although it hails from Oakville, whose
Cabernets are among the most ageable in Napa Valley,
this shows an accessibility that makes the black currant
and cedar flavors immediately appealing. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
91
Wallis Family Estate 2009 Little Sister
Red Wine (Diamond Mountain). Delicious
now, this has waves of blackberries, cherries, currants,
dark chocolate, spices and oak. It seems almost sweet,
but the finish is a swirl of dry tannins. Might develop
over the long haul, and will it certainly last to 2015. Give
it a few hours in the decanter. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
91
Wattle Creek 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Alexander Valley). This is classic Alexander
Valley Cabernet Sauvignon—in an old-fashioned way.
That’s not a back-handed compliment, it’s a testimony
to the wine’s dryness and herbaceousness, and the soft
quality of its tannins. The blackberry, olive and cedar
flavors are delicious, and the wine will develop bottle
complexity over the next 10 years or so. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $42
91
Y Rousseau 2009 Le Roi Soleil Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Here’s a Cabernet to lay down in the cellar for 6–8 years—or even
longer. Two things mark it: the extremely ripe, concentrated blackberry and black currant fruit, and the hefty
tannins. Most people will probably open it too soon and
miss out on what it could be, when the tannins drop
out to reveal its sweet fruity essence. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $65
90
Dominus 2009 Estate Bottled Red Wine
(Napa Valley). While this is not the best
Dominus vintage, it does show elegantly smooth tannins, dryness and earthiness that accompanies the
blackberry and cassis fruit. It’s curiously soft, which
might limit its ageability. Shows an uncanny similarity
to the 2000. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $179
90
Forefathers 2008 Lone Tree Vineyard
For full review see page 8. Cellar Selection.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $50
90
Jason-Stephens 2006 Monte Bello Road
Cabernet Sauvignon (Santa Cruz Mountains). A six-year-old Cabernet that’s heady with savory
herbal tones, it has a finely tuned structure that needs
time to open and could be cellared even more. This is a
beautiful wine with ripe flavors of black cherry and pepper, and plenty of complexity to keep it interesting over
a meal. Cellar Selection. —V.B.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $70
90
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars 2009 Artemis
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This
has lots of ripe, plush blackberry, olive and dark chocolate flavors. It packs a punch that lasts into a long, spicy
finish. Delicious, classy, and lovely to drink now, although it will evolve through at least 2018. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $55
90
Topel 2007 Battuello Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (St. Helena). Dry and smoothly
tannic, this will have wide appeal, both to novices and
even experts who will appreciate its complexity. With
black cherry and cola flavors, it has a nice jacket of oak
that brings a smoky richness to the fruit. Drink now–
2013. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
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abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Varozza 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (St.
Helena). This 100% Cabernet has a good
structure and plenty of ripe, flashy blackberry and blueberry jam and cassis flavors. It’s a bit coarse now in tannins, which undoubtedly is a function of youth. Give it
another five years, by which time it should be throwing lots of tannins, so be prepared to decant it carefully.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $75
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Boyanci 2009 InSpire Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Rich and crowd pleasing, this has flashy blackberry, black currant and spice
flavors. It’s textbook Napa Cabernet, if a little upfront
in its appeal. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $60
Chalk Hill 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon-Carmenère (Chalk Hill). This unusual blend is
robust and sweet in blackberries, dark chocolate and
plums, with lots of toasty, caramelized oak. It’s forward,
soft and delicious, but could be more nuanced. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $85
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(Napa Valley). Ripe to the point of overripe,
with a sweet raisin edge to the blackberry flavor. Still,
the structure is elegant, showing fine tannins and good
balance. Probably best over the next 1–3 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $68
Farrier 2009 Presshouse Red (Alexander
Valley). Rich and tasty, this is a big wine that’s
ripe in blackberries, black currants and mocha, yet balanced with rich tannins and fine acidity. The blend is
Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Carmenere.
—S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $24
Freakshow 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Lodi). For full review see page 10.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
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Herzog 2009 Single Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Very soft, this
has a melted quality to the blackberry, cherry liqueur
and cedar flavors. Everything about it is so fine, though
it could have a firmer structure. Still, it’s an elaborate
wine that will pair well with beef or lamb. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $75
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Hestan 2007 Meyer Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Ripe and forward,
this has lots of jammy blackberry and cherry fruit flavors, all coated with sweet, smoky oak. It’s a bit overripe, with a note of plumped raisin, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $45
Owl Ridge 2007 T.R. Passalacqua Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Dry Creek
Valley). This Cabernet has a wonderfully smooth texture. It’s tasty and rich in blackberry fruit, with a touch
of sweet, savory raisin and lots of exotic spice. Easy to
drink this dry wine over the next few years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Black Ridge 2008 San Andreas Red Wine
(Santa Cruz Mountains). This is a bit rustic,
with superripe blackberry flavors that veer into raisins.
As a consequence, there’s a fruity sweetness at its core.
It’s also extremely tannic. While it’s flashy and impressive, it won’t benefit from age due to its inherent instabilities. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $49
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Buehler 2009 Papa’s Knoll Estate Bottled
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This
is warm in alcohol, which lends a slight burn, but the
blackberry fruit is pure and savory. It’s dry, with good
supporting acidity and rich tannins, but the alcohol
might limit its ageability, so drink soon. —S.H.
Price: $45
abv: 14.6%
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Chalk Hill 2009 Merlot-Malbec (Chalk
Hill). Tasting sweet and hot, this sure is ripe.
It has extracted flavors of jammy blackberry, cherry and
cola. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $85
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Earthquake 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Lodi). Earthquake wines often hit you quite
deliberately over the head with oak and tannin, but this
is nicely done. It’s big and very fruity, with cranberry
and cassis notes intermingled with a blackberry flavor.
Smooth throughout, the wine finishes with a delicious
hit of toffee and vanilla. —V.B.
abv: 15%
Price: $26
Houdini 2008 Glendale Ranch Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Still dry and tannic, this has a hard, brittle mouthfeel and lots of tart
acidity. It has a gigantic core of blackberry fruit. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
Icaria 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Dry, tannic and tartly acidic, this
has the herbaceous earthiness often found in Alexander
Valley Cabernets, but it’s rich enough in cherries and
sweet oak to satisfy. It doesn’t seem like an ager, but it’s
an elegantly smooth wine to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
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Jason-Stephens 2007 Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Santa Clara Valley). This is an
appealing Cabernet with spicy cola and plum notes and
a consistent flavor through the midpalate. It finishes
with a hint of toasty oak. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $28
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Kunde 2009 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). Tasty and easy to
drink, this has blackberry, black currant and cola flavors that finish seemingly sweet and oaky. It’s an intense
wine that doesn’t seem likely to make gains with age, so
drink up after an hour or two in the decanter. —S.H.
Price: $45
abv: 14.7%
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Markham 2008 The Altruist Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This wine remains astringent in tannins, with a lockded-down
mouthfeel that’s hard to get past. But it’s very rich in
blackberry and cherry fruit. Is it worth aging? It’s hard
to tell if 10 years will be of benefit, but the tannins seem
likely to outlast the fruit. Drink up over the next 5–6
years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Owl Ridge 2007 Brigden Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). A little
on the slender side, but this is respectable for its dry,
balanced texture and pleasant blackberry and black currant flavors. It shows real elegance, too, although it’s not
one for the cellar, so drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Paraduxx 2009 C Blend Red Wine (Napa
Valley). The C Blend is Cabernet Sauvignon
blended with Zinfandel. It’s fine, dry and robust, bearing rich blackberry and plum sauce flavors, with some
authentic Napa elegance. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
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Paraduxx 2009 Z Blend Red Wine (Napa
Valley). Zinfandel has been blended in with
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot to create this blend.
The Zinfandel makes the wine briary and spicy, taking
away from Cabernet’s elegance. Still, it’s a very good
wine—robust, fruity and dry. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
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Pine Ridge 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Oakville). This shows good blackberry and
black currant flavors, with the smooth, rich tannins for
which Oakville is noted. But there’s no particular intensity or ageworthiness. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $75
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(Rutherford). Good and classy, if somewhat
ordinary for Rutherford. It shows delicious black-cherry
candy and mocha flavors, with smooth, refined tannins,
but lacks the structure and concentration needed for aging, especially at this price. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $80
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(Stags Leap District). Tastes like sweet,
spicy blackberry jam, with an overripe note of prune
lurking in the background, which will limit the wine’s
age-worthiness. It’s fine in tannins and acids, with plenty
of elegance, but it seems too sweet for true classic Stags
Leap character. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $85
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Pine Ridge 2009 Fortis Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This is a blend of the
winery’s vineyard sources in Rutherford and Stags Leap.
It’s very delicious and complex in blackberry and blueberry jam, cola, mocha and smoky oak flavors, but is surprisingly soft. It’s almost as if the tannins and acids were
taken out. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $150
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Sean Minor 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). A nice Cabernet for drinking
now, this is basically dry, but has so much ripe black
berry and cherry fruit that there’s an impression of
sweetness. With soft tannins and an edge of toasty oak,
it shows plenty of Napa class. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Shannon Ridge 2009 Ranch Collection
Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). A delightfully fresh, fruity Cabernet with notes of cassis and
cranberry, this is on the red fruit side of the Cabernet
aroma and flavor spectrum. The wine’s clutch of tannins
are balanced out on the vanilla-flavored finish, and the
wine’s small amounts of Syrah, Petite Sirah and Malbec
add layers of vibrancy. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
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William Hill Estate 2008 Estate Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Give this wine
credit for richness. It’s tremendous in blackberry, blueberry, plum and mocha flavors, with a nice earthiness.
It’s ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $35
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Bacio Divino 2009 Reserve Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This soft, gentle Cabernet doesn’t have much structure, but it’s rich
in blackberry, currant and dark chocolate flavors, and
thoroughly dry. The finish is hot like a jalapeño pepper.
—S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $80
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Boyanci 2009 Red Wine (Napa Valley). A
blend of Cabernet Sauvignon with some other
classic Bordeaux varieties and a splash of Syrah, this is
a sweet, chocolaty wine, with a blackberry note and a
crème de cassis headiness. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $110
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Chalk Hill 2009 Clara’s Vineyard Red
Wine (Chalk Hill). This shows opulent blackberry and chocolate flavors that are delicious and heady.
But it’s very high in alcohol, which gives it a burn and a
glycerine-like sweetness. It’s a Bordeaux blend, with the
addition of Syrah. —S.H.
Price: $85
abv: 15.6%
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Chime 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). Exceptionally ripe and juicy,
with briary wild-blackberry and cherry flavors. It’s a
good wine, a little coarse, but nicely dry and spicy. A
brief decant will help soften the tannins. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $19
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Crooked Path 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Paso Robles). Plenty of rich, hearty blackberry, cherry, currant and spice flavors are found in this
soft wine. A little on the sweet side, it’s throwing some
sediment, so decant it before service. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Hawk Watch Winery 2008 Signature
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (South
Coast). There’s no denying the showy, ripe fruit that
emanates from the bottle—a mix of herbal cranberry
and caramel. It’s soft and round, and if you’re interested
in how Cabernet from the South Coast can taste, this
one’s worth a try. —V.B.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $42
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Hess 2009 Allomi Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Properly varietal, dry and
smoothly tannic, this has a ripe, rich blackberry-jam
flavor, with a healthy overlay of sweet, smoky oak. It’s a
fine wine for drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $28
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Hess Collection 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). Small amounts of
Malbec and Merlot bring some additional complexity to
this Cabernet, but it’s still a pretty straightforward wine.
Soft and dry, it has generous flavors of blackberry and
new oak. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $48
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Houdini 2008 Palisades Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Tough in the
mouth, and chewy, like a gristly piece of steak you can’t
quite break down. It’s certainly rich in blackberry, black
currant and smoky oak flavors, and is properly dry and
brisk in acidity. But you have to wonder if that toughness will ever age out. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
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Minassian-Young 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Soft, sweet, gentle and
Porty, this has dark chocolate, blackberry and buttered
rum flavors. It’s quite generous and delicious in the Paso
hot-climate way. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $24
Noble Vines 2009 337 Cabernet Sauvignon (Lodi). This is a fleshy, fairly priced Cabernet from the 337 clone (hence the name), that has
notes of dark cherry fruit and baking spice throughout,
with just a trace of coconut on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $15
Peters Family 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Sonoma Mountain). This is tartly sweet and
jammy, like a cherry and roasted almond candy bar with
a chocolate coating. Tasty, but a little one dimensional.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $55
Shannon Ridge 2010 High Elevation Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (Lake County). Made from grapes grown at a high elevation, this
Cabernet tastes of oaky plum and has a slight layer of
sage in the background that rounds out the wine. Aged
in French and American oak, it’s ready to drink now,
as its cherry and raspberry flavors are currently shining. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $23
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Topel 2008 Battuello Vineyard Cabernet
Sauvignon (St. Helena). Soft, dry and flashy,
this has pie-filling flavors of blackberries and cherries,
with some heat from the alcohol. The smoky spiciness
and firm tannins suggest pairing it with steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $40
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White Oak 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Despite some rich blackberry
and currant flavors, a rich overlay of oak and smooth
tannins, this Cabernet is a little off in texture. It’s gritty
in the mouth, but it is nicely dry, and has a certain complexity. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
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Benziger 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This is a solid, everyday Cabernet for drinking with simple fare. It’s soft and simple
in structure, but the blackberry and mocha flavors are
tasty. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Calistoga Cellars 2010 Triumph Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made in a popular style, this is a soft, slightly sweet and very fruity Cabernet. It has candied cherry, roasted almond, honey and
spice flavors, wrapped in a smoothly tannic framework.
—S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $25
Daglia Canyon 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). This shows a certain richness,
with black currant, cola and cedar flavors. It’s easy to
drink with just about anything that calls for a dry, fullbodied red. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $18
Decoy 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa
County). An easy Cabernet, delivering plenty
of ripe, juicy blackberry jam and dark chocolate flavors.
It finishes a little on the sweet side. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $25
Decoy 2010 Red Wine (Napa Valley). This
blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit
Verdot has some oak flavors on top of the jammy blackberries and cherries. It’s simple and direct; ideal for
drinking now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
F.J. Serra 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Jangly in the mouth, with an uneven
tannin structure that makes it a bit rough. But there’s
plenty of jammy cherry and berry fruit. Drink now with
a hearty beef stew. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
Miro 2009 Silverwood Vineyard Mountain Grown Cabernet Sauvignon (Alexander Valley). Toasty, caramelized oak and sweet heat
from high alcohol dominate this wine. The blackberry
and cherry fruit flavors are very ripe. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $28
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Muscardini 2009 Madrone Ridge Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Sonoma Valley). This very dry Cabernet feels rugged and gritty in
the mouth, with too much acidity that lends bite. The
austerity is relieved by black cherry and sweet tobacco
flavors. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $39
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Muscardini 2010 Rancho Salina Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot (Sonoma Valley).
Overripe, juicy and soft, this has baked fruit flavors,
like blackberries and cherries in a pie. Oak adds to the
sweetness with sugary caramel. It’s rich, but it lacks
complexity and ageworthiness. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $49
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Napa Cellars 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Napa Valley). Seemingly sweet cherry, mocha and oak flavors mark this ripe Cabernet. It offers
plenty of fruity pleasure. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $22
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(Howell Mountain). Ripe to the point of being overripe, this has a sweet raisin and prune note to
the blackberry flavor. It’s clear that the winemaker was
trying to make a flashy, opulent Cab, but this one carries
it over the top. Not likely to benefit from age, so drink
up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $90
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Riboli 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon (Rutherford). This is sharper and more rustic than
most other expensive Rutherford Cabernets, with a cut
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of citrusy acidity that dominates the cherry and herb flavors. While it’s tough and hard to appreciate now, you
never know if these aggressive young wines will develop
with time. This one doesn’t seem like it will benefit, so
drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $65
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Rigg Estate Vineyards 2006 Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Livermore Valley).
Very dark in color, this jumps out at first because it’s
showy and high in alcohol, with seemingly sweet overtones that might appeal to lovers of brawny red wine.
The oak, green pepper and olive undertones take over
on the finish. —V.B.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $85
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Tangley Oaks 2007 Lot #10 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Napa Valley). There are good
blackberry and black currant flavors in this dry Cabernet, with an elegant coating of smoky oak, but it lacks
some concentration. —S.H.
Price: $23
abv: 14.2%
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Vigilance 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red
Hills Lake County). This is a slightly herbal,
well-structured Cabernet with upfront tannins and flavors of ripe cherry and vanilla. It finishes with a taste of
marshmallow. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Paso Robles style, this is pretty sweet, soft and simple.
There’s not much complexity, but it has plenty of ripe
blackberry, cherry and spice flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $20
and sour, this has a gluey texture that frames the cherry
cough-medicine flavors. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $18
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OTHER RED BLENDS
Weinstock Cellars 2009 Cellar Select
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa County). This
is nicely dry and rich in fine tannins, with classic Cabernet blackberry, black currant, cola and cedar flavors. But
the wine is so soft, it lacks structural integrity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
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Lockwood 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Monterey County). Drink this Cabernet
with burgers. It’s dry, robust and fruity, with a strong cut
of acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (California). This is dry, with scouring
tannins and some twiggy, stalky bitterness. It has just
enough blackberry flavor to get by. For the price, it’s
fine for big parties. —S.H.
Price: $8
abv: 13%
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Small Wonders 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Coast). Simple and sharp, this
tastes like a chocolate-covered cherry candy, though it
finishes dry. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $14
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Calistoga Cellars 2010 Triumph Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Made
in a popular style, but this is seems sweet, like a Starbucks blackberry and mocha drink. It’s overripe, with a
raisiny finish and some heat. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $45
Greystone 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). Not bad for the price, if you’re
just looking for something dry, full bodied and fruity. A
lot of people are, which makes this a pretty good bargain. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Lost Angel 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). This has ripe blackberry and oak
flavors. It’s dry, full bodied and tannic enough to cut
through a rich, ketchup-strewn cheeseburger. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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RouteStock Cellars 2009 Route 29 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Although
this Cabernet bears a Napa Valley designation, it could
be from anywhere. It’s rich in tannins and has good
blackberry and herb flavors that finish a little pruny.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
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Lloyd of Calcareous 2008 Velvet Knees
Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This
is way too soft and unstructured, especially at this price.
It’s a sweet, syrupy wine, with blackberry jam and cocoa
flavors, and it’s also high in alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $56
Parducci 2009 Small Lot Blend Cabernet
Sauvignon (Mendocino County). This runof-the-mill wine lacks much in the way of varietal character, and has an overbearing taste of alcohol. —V.B.
abv: 14%
Price: $11
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Pennywise 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(California). Offering dry, sharp flavors of berries, mint and tobacco, it gets the job done. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $12
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Shale Canyon 2009 Pedregal Vineyard
Cabernet Sauvignon (Paicines). A hard
Cabernet to like, with a rough texture and sweet-andsour cherry flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $20
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Snapping Turtle 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Simple and soft, this has
flavors of sweet, candied fruit and buttered toast. —S.H.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $11
Sean Minor 2010 Four Bears Cabernet
Sauvignon (Paso Robles). This is a simple,
soft, easy to drink Cabernet, with candied berry and
spice flavors. The easiness suggests backyard barbecue,
with sweetly grilled ribs and burgers on a summer evening. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
Wayne Gretzky Estates 2008 Cabernet
Sauvignon (Sonoma County). This is overripe in raisin and prune flavors, which gives it a disagreeable bitterness and sweetness. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Twisted Sisters 2009 Matriarch Red Wine
(Paso Robles). Made in an old-fashioned
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Arrow Creek 2011 Coastal Series Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Harsh, sweet
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La Sirena 2008 Art Bus Red (Calistoga).
A new wine from superstar winemaker Heidi
Barrett, and the label is one of the coolest ever. It’s extraordinarily rich and opulent, with a tapestry-like silky
complexity. The blackberry, cherry and olive flavors are
very ripe, yet it finishes wonderfully dry. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $115
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Ghost Pines 2009 Winemaker’s Blend
Red Blend (Napa County-Sonoma County-San Joaquin County). For full review see page 8.
Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Cosa Obra 2009 Proprietor’s Blend Red
(Sonoma County). Made from Syrah and Grenache, this blend shows the strengths and weaknesses
of its style. While it’s forwardly delicious and complex in
cherry, licorice, bacon, black pepper, mocha and sandalwood flavors, it’s rather soft. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.9%
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Sean Minor 2009 Red Wine (Napa Valley). There’s something distinguished about
this blend of several varieties, but also something
one-dimensional. It’s pretty good for the price—dry,
smoothly tannic and proper in blackberry, dark chocolate and cassis flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Eleanor 2009 Red Wine (California). This
expensive wine is softly tannic, earthy and fruity,
with dried herb and raspberry tea flavors. From Francis
Ford Coppola. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
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Lost Angel 2008 Mischief (California).
This is a pretty nice wine for drinking with
everyday fare, and at this price, it’s a real value. It packs
a punch, with solid blackberry and licorice flavors that
finish dry and spicy. Best Buy. —S.H.
Price: $10
abv: 13.5%
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Bridlewood 2010 Blend 175 (Central
Coast). Made from Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel, this is a simple wine. It has cherry
and spice flavors, with a cut of acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Minassian-Young 2010 Field Blend (Paso
Robles). This blend of Mourvèdre and Counoise is soft and sweet. It tastes like the wine version
of a milk-chocolate candy bar, infused with blackberry
essence and alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $25
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Pazzo 2009 Red (Napa Valley). From Bacio Divino, this Sangiovese-based blend is curiously soft. While it has forward cherry, cocoa and spice
flavors, it simply lacks structural integrity.The alcohol is
evident on the warm, dry finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $32
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Rare NV 4 Grape Blend (California).
Here’s a good, robust red wine. It’s made in a
country-style, with tobacco, cherry and spice flavors
and a jagged mouthfeel. Drink it with tacos and burgers. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Gundlach Bundschu 2009 Mountain
Cuvée (Sonoma County). This is way too
soft for comfort, with soft tannins and slight acidity that
leave the fruit and alcohol to star. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $24
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LoveThisLife 2009 Red (California). With
cherry, mocha and spice flavors, this is a good
wine for drinking with a great cheeseburger. The price
is fair for the quality. It’s a blend of Petite Sirah and
Syrah. —S.H.
Price: $13
abv: 14%
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Cline 2011 Cashmere (California). This
blend seems to be trying to ride the current
craze for sweet red wines. It’s simple and thin, with
sharp acidity. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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Minassian-Young 2009 Junipero (Paso
Robles). Marred by a vegetal taste, this has
hot, thin cherry and oak flavors. The blend is Mourvèdre, Zinfandel and Grenache. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $24
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Plush 2010 Smooth Red (California). As
its name states quite clearly, this is a plush, lush,
smooth red wine. It’s sweet and jammy like a shot of
Jell-O. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $8
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Peirano 2009 The Other Red (Lodi). This
blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and 10% Syrah was too sweet for this taster. It’s full
of huge ripe fruit and a lingering aroma of burnt toast.
—V.B.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $12
MERLOT
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Duckhorn 2009 Three Palms Vineyard
Merlot (Napa Valley). For full review see
abv: 14.5%
Price: $85
lies the price. Fully drinkable now, it’s softly tannic and
rich in cherry, red currant, licorice and mocha flavors
that finish dry and spicy. Production was 9,904 cases.
Editors’ Choice. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $26
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Kimmel 2009 Merlot (Mendocino County). Powerfully lush and concentrated, this
has a heady layering of spice and tannins that coat the
back palate. With a big, fruity mouthfeel, this is ready
for braised meats or herbed roast chicken with garlic
smashed potatoes. —V.B.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
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Merlot (Alexander Valley). For full review
see page 9.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $18
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Lost Angel 2009 Merlot (California). Get
a case of this and make it your house wine for
easy drinking. It’s dry and spicy, and has enough cherry, berry and cola flavors to satisfy your tastebuds. Best
Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Concannon 2009 Conservancy Merlot
(Livermore Valley). This has flavors of dark
cherry and mint that hover above its herbal tendencies.
It resolves nicely on the finish, with flavors of juicy plum
and black tea. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
Mad Housewife 2009 Merlot (California).
This is a Merlot with dark plum flavors, integrated tannins and good structure. Juicy fruit and an appropriate level of herbaceousness in the background. Best
Buy. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Newton 2008 Unfiltered Merlot (Napa
Valley). Slender and dry, this has modest cherry, herb and cedar flavors. It’s elegant enough, with a
supple mouthfeel, but there’s not a whole lot of richness. This is not for aging. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Merlot (California). For full review see page 12. Best Buy.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
Parducci 2009 Small Lot Blend Merlot
(Mendocino County). This Merlot has good
plum and cherry flavors up front and is straightforward
enough to pair with just about any food, but the finish
falls a bit flat. —V.B.
Price: $11
abv: 13.5%
Benziger 2008 Merlot (Sonoma County).
A soft, simple wine, this has flavors of cherry
candy, spice and oak. It’s getting a little tired, so drink
up now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $19
Geyser Peak 2008 Merlot (Alexander Valley). This is soft and simple, with mild cherry,
spice and cedar flavors. It’s not very rich, but it’s nice
and dry. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $18
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Lockwood 2010 Merlot (Monterey County). There’s lots of cutting acidity in this dry
Merlot. It has pleasant cherry-pie flavors, but the tartness really needs rich meats and cheeses to soften it.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $15
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Greystone 2010 Merlot (California). Drink
this easy Merlot at parties with burgers and pizzas. It’s soft and dryish, with a candied cherry flavor.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Tangley Oaks 2009 Lot #10 Merlot (Napa
Valley). Rich and appealing, this feels classy,
with smooth tannins framing cherry and licorice flavors.
—S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $15
Korbin Kameron 2008 Estate Grown Merlot
(Sonoma Valley). For full review see page 8.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
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Kendall-Jackson 2008 Grand Reserve
Merlot (Sonoma County). This is a lovely,
fully resolved Merlot. It shows a classy elegance that be-
Houdini 2008 Merlot (Oakville). Fruity and
simple, this Merlot tastes like the wine equivalent of a candied dessert pastry. It may not be technically sweet, but it’s so extracted in raspberries, cherries
and caramelized oak that it seems sweet. —S.H.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $30
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Duckhorn 2009 Merlot (Napa Valley). For
abv: 14.5%
Price: $52
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Chelsea Goldschmidt 2010 Merlot (Dry
Creek Valley). Here’s a soft, juicy Merlot. It’s
loaded with cherry, mocha and smoky flavors, wrapped
into smooth tannins. It finishes dry and spicy. —S.H.
Price: $17
abv: 14.2%
Black Box 2010 Merlot (California). Once
again Black Box has come out with a fine, easydrinking Merlot that many folks will like. It’s forward in
sour cherry, herb and cedar flavors, wrapped into a dry,
silky texture. At the equivalent of $6.25 for a regular
750-ml bottle, it’s a bargain. Best Buy. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25/3 L
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jam, mocha and spicy sandalwood flavors. There’s plenty
of charm, but not much complexity. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
Decoy 2010 Merlot (Sonoma County).
Sweet and direct, this has blackberry, cherry
Cable Car 2009 Merlot (Lodi). This is an
herbal Merlot that tastes of toasty oak and finishes slightly sweet. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
Lange Twins 2008 Reserve Merlot
(Clarksburg). This Merlot is muted aromatically. On the palate it’s gigantic in tannins—big and bold
for sure. —V.B.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $30
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Maddalena 2007 Merlot (Paso Robles).
Still rather harsh, this is a rustic wine with cherry, cola and prune flavors. It’s not for aging. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
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House Band NV Merlot (California). Sold
in individual 375-ml pouches or 4-packs. The
WineMag.com | 59
Merlot is overripe and Porty, with a sweet prune flavor. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $5/375 ml
spicy finish. A joy to drink now, and it will develop bottle
nuances over the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
PETIT VERDOT
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Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Petit Verdot (St. Helena). For full review see page 7.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $38
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Fenestra 2008 Ghielmetti Vineyard Petit
Verdot (Livermore Valley). This wine opens
with spicy cinnamon and clove aromas before diving into soft, dark fruit, mellowed tannins and oak. It’s
brooding and zippy at the same time, and on the balanced finish, it’s all mocha. —V.B.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $33
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Yorkville Cellars 2009 Randle Hill Vineyard Petit Verdot (Yorkville Highlands). A
Cabernet Sauvignon-like version of Petit Verdot, this
has tame tannins and is all around soft and mellow, with
straightforward berry and cedar notes. It would make a
fine food wine. —V.B.
Price: $28
abv: 13%
PINOT NOIR
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Furthermore 2009 Gap’s Crown Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Showing lovely silkiness, dryness and transparency, this is a Pinot to
drink now or age for a while. The flavors are rich but
elusive, suggesting wild summer raspberries, cola, pine
needles and sautéed mushrooms splashed with balsamic, with the sweet smokiness of oak barrel aging. It’s delicate and powerful, but only 47 cases were produced.
—S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $50
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Marimar Estate 2008 Cristina Don Miguel
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 3. Cellar Selection.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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Sanford 2009 La Riconada Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). There’s a grace and purity
to this Pinot Noir that make it particularly recommendable. It’s so light and silky, it just glides like a butterfly
across the palate. But it’s extraordinarily rich in wild
raspberry and cherry fruit, and the white pepper and
baking spices make it savory. Delicious now, but it
should prosper over the next eight years, at least. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Walt 2010 The Corners Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see page 4.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $60
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Davis Family 2009 Horshehoe Bend
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). The winery’s ’08 bottling of this Pinot was very
good, but this is considerably better. It’s rich in red cherries and ripe persimmons, with complex notes of grilled
beef, cola and sautéed wild mushrooms, and has a long,
Sanford 2010 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a
fancy restaurant-style Pinot Noir. That means it’s dry,
silky and rich, and has that elusive, undefinable quality of elegance that can accompany the finest Pinotfriendly foods, such as steak, lamb, grilled tuna or a wild
mushroom risotto. It’s tantalizingly crisp, with complex
cherry, cola and spice flavors. Drink now and through
2016. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
ture of acids, tannins and stony minerality. Upscale and
elegant, it’s fine now, and should develop bottle complexities over the next 6–8 years. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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TR Elliott 2009 Queste Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). This is so seductive in rich,
polished raspberry and cherry flavors, you can hardly
keep from drinking it now. But the acid and tannin balance on this Pinot Noir is just about perfect, giving it the
potential for at least six years in a good cellar. There’s an
earthy, mushroomy complexity that could make it really
interesting down the road. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $44
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Sobriquet Winery 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa
Maria Valley). For full review see page 4. Editors’ Choice.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $38
a-non-ah-mus 2009 Babcock Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). How this wine
manages to be both sweet and bone dry at the same
time is a mystery. It’s simply luscious, brimming with
deliriously rich flavors of raspberry cream, cherry
vanilla, gingerbread cookie and buttered cinnamon
toast. It’s the Chardonnay version of Pinot Noir, creamy
and honeyed. —S.H.
Price: $44
abv: 14.9%
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Davis Family 2009 Starr Ridge Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). With
waves of raspberry, cherry, honeyed cream, cinnamon
and caramelized oak flavors, this defines the word delicious. The richness is balanced by crisp acidity and delicate tannins. Just superb to drink now; try pairing it with
lamb that’s been salted and peppered, seasoned with a
hint of rosemary. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
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Drew 2010 Fog-Eater Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Dry and racy, with an affinity for
a wide variety of foods. Made from two vineyards in this
cool-climate appellation, it shows subtle earth, mushroom and eucalyptus notes that deepen the wild raspberry and cherry fruit. With brisk acidity and a flourish
of tannins, it’s a fine wine to drink now and over the next
six years. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $42
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Drew 2010 Morning Dew Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). Another great Anderson Valley Pinot from Drew, made using fruit from
a vineyard in Philo—the “deep end” or coolest section
of the valley. While you won’t find obnoxious acidity
despite the officially high reading, the wine does have
cool-climate notes of mushrooms, pine needles and
cola, in addition to classic fruit flavors of raspberries and
cherries. It’s very fine, dry and complex; enjoy now or
cellar for 6–8 years. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $48
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Furthermore 2009 Rosella’s Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). A fine
evocation of this esteemed vineyard, this shows the typical power and extracted fruit in the form of pure raspberry and cherry essence. It’s all packed into a firm tex-
Walt 2010 La Brisa Pinot Noir (Sonoma
County). For full review see page 6.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
Amos Cellars 2010 Shepherd Anderson
Creek Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). Proprietor Jon McDaniel, a sommelier, has crafted a Pinot Noir that’s modest in alcohol and brisk in
acidity, with an elegantly earthy touch. It’s rich in cherries, pomegranates and dried herbs, a wine to savor and
linger over as it warms up in the glass. —S.H.
Price: $32
abv: 13.5%
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Beaulieu Vineyard 2010 Reserve Pinot
Noir (Carneros). Lovely, crisp acidity marks
this dry, complex Pinot Noir. It’s not an ager, but very
elegant, with delicate sour-cherry candy, cola and mushroom flavors. A great wine to serve with mushroombased entrées. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Calera 2009 Reed Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan). This shows a delicate silkiness and a sweet
essence of wild raspberries that make it fully ready to
drink now. But that quality obscures its subtleties of
mineral, mushroomy earth and flower notes that add to
this Pinot’s great complexity. As good as it is now, it will
have no trouble negotiating the next decade. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $52
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Davis Family 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). A consummate Russian River
Pinot Noir in an accessible style. This is simply enchanting, like raspberry-infused silk dusted with brown butter, cinnamon and vanilla. Showing just beautifully now,
this is soft and gentle, and it should glide through the
next six years. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $40
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Davis Family 2009 Soul Patch Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). This is delicious in
raspberry and cherry jam and cola flavors, with a mushroom and grilled hamburger note that adds to its appeal. Dry and crisp, it could develop complexity over
the years, but there’s no reason not to give it a decanting
and enjoy it now. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
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Freeman 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). A beautiful Pinot to drink now, this is
elegant and supple, with crisp acidity and a delightfully
light texture. However, there’s nothing light about the
flavors, which suggest wild forest berry, softened cola,
mushroom, dried pine and spice, enhanced with a subtle jacket of sandalwood. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $44
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Freeman 2010 Keefer Ranch Pinot Noir
(Russian River Valley). Delicious and spicy,
this has notes of cherry pie filling, cola, dried forest herb
and leaf, with a touch of sweet, smoky, vanilla-tinged
oak. It’s a bit on the brawny side, but then, these Keefer
Ranch Pinots always start out that way. Don’t drink it
now because it’s just too hefty; give it six years in a proper cellar. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $48
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Lucie 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Lots of ripe, cheerful flavors of raspberry
and cherry jam and cola are found in this vibrant wine.
It shows oak, too, in the form of sweet buttered cinnamon toast. The mouthfeel is pure Pinot: silky, velvety
and delicate. Delicious for drinking now with everything from grilled steak to ahi tuna. —S.H.
Price: $60
abv: 14.5%
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MacPhail 2010 Ferrington Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see
page 6.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $49
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Von Holt 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). For full review
see page 7.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $39
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Kynsi 2009 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Made in the
Kynsi style, this is direct and delicious, made for drinking now. The wild raspberry and cherry flavors have a
brightness and acidity that make them savory. —S.H.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $39
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Kynsi 2009 Stone Corral Vineyard Estate
Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). This is absolutely delicious, with raspberry, cherry and mocha flavors
that go on and on. Great Central Coast acidity provides
needed tartness to balance the richness. It’s a beautiful, ripe, flashy and sophisticated Pinot Noir, showing
the early drinkability and freshness of the Edna Valley.
—S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $48
Pali 2010 Cargasacchi Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Very delicious and savory if a little hot in alcohol, this has flavors of raspberry
and cherry jam, buttery pie crust and vanilla that are
flecked with red pepper flakes. It’s not an ager, but it
is an elegant, flashy wine for pairing with tuna, lamb or
steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $54
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Black Kite 2009 Kite’s Rest Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). Right out of the bottle,
it’s a bit clumsy, but airing quickly lets it mellow, so give
it some time in a decanter. Delicious in cherry, cola, bacon, cinnamon toast and other classic cool-climate Pinot flavors, it shows a racy acidity that makes it vibrant.
—S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $42
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Drew 2010 Telfryn & Calder Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). Spice marks this dry, delicate offering, with notes of white pepper, cinnamon
and nutmeg. But it’s also richly fruity in wild cherries
and raspberries. In recent years, Drew has been producing remarkably complex and ageworthy Pinots, and
this lovely wine, which is not a single-vineyard bottling,
shows the winery’s continued mastery. It’s a particular
success given the enormous challenges of the 2010 vintage. Drink now–2018. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $38
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Furthermore 2009 La Encantada Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). This is
Furthermore’s fruitiest, most accessible ’09 Pinot Noir.
If you love fruit, you’ll savor the endless flavors of raspberries, cherries and persimmons that are brightened
with a squeeze of zesty, lime-like acidity and enriched
with the smoky creaminess of oak. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $40
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Stemmler 2009 Nugent Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). This still immature Pinot has tobacco-infused cherry, cola and
pomegranate flavors that are liberally oaked and spiced.
It’s O.K. to drink immediately if you like freshness and
vibrancy, but aging it for six years or even longer could
reward. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $42
Acacia 2010 Roberts Road Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). As delicious as
Pinot Noir gets, this has fireworks of raspberries, cherries and cola, and a sweet, mushroom-like essence of
earth. Then the depth kicks in. It’s not a big, tannic
wine, but rather soft, with enormous charm and immediate appeal. Drink now–2016. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $65
Belle Glos 2010 Las Alturas Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). This
bottling has varied over the vintages, but 2010 has produced a softly lush, rich Pinot for drinking now. It’s as
tasty as a dessert confection, with flavors of raspberry
jam, buttercream and cinnamon toast, balanced with
acidity. For all the richness, it finishes properly dry.
—S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $44
MacPhail 2010 Wightman House Vineyard Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). For full
review see page 8.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $55
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Walt 2010 Clos Pepe Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita
Hills). For full review see page 7.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $60
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Belle Glos 2010 Taylor Lane Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Like the winery’s
other 2010 Pinots, this one’s seems sweet and jammy in
raspberries, cherries and cola, with lots of caramelized
new-oak tones. It definitely appeals for its opulence, but
would benefit from greater subtlety. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $44
Stemmler 2009 Ferguson Block Pinot
Noir (Carneros). Strong in fruit, this is a high
octane Pinot that floods the mouth with ripe flavors of
cherry and blackberry Life Saver candy, Dr. Pepper and
sweetly toasted cedar. It has an elegant structure and a
silky mouthfeel that make it especially attractive. This
should develop complexity over the next 6–8 years.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $44
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es. Dry and silky, it’s a classy Pinot Noir for drinking
over the next several years. —S.H.
Price: $44
abv: 14.3%
Black Kite 2009 Stony Terrace Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). Tasted in May of 2012,
this shows an immaturity, where all the parts haven’t yet
come together. It has a big, rich black-cherry flavor, with
elaborate smoky oak, brisk acidity, firm tannins and heat
from the alcohol all vying for dominance. Needs time;
cellar it until 2015. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $52
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Topel 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Monterey). Dry and elegant, this is not a block
buster. It doesn’t grab you by the collar and shake you
with its power. Instead, it flatters with finesse. Crisp
acidity and a silky texture house subtle cherry-skin, cola
and spice flavors. It’s a great companion for food that
will complement it, not overwhelm it. Drink now–2015.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $40
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TR Elliott 2009 Burgonet Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Right up there with the
rich ’08, Elliott’s 2009 offers plenty of serious tasting
pleasure. It’s rich and ripe in raspberries and cherries,
with complex notes of mushrooms, cola, herbs and spic-
Calera 2009 Jensen Pinot Noir (Mt. Harlan). In its youth, this tastes rich and candied,
like a cherry, vanilla and buttercream pastry. It’s delicious, savory and fun, a very easy wine to drink with a
great steak or chop. With its delicate texture, it should
probably last quite a few years, without necessarily gaining in complexity. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $73
Cuvaison 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
One of Cuvaison’s best basic Pinots in years, this
is charming with its dry, crisp structure, silky elegance
and fine flavors of raspberries, cherries and toasty oak.
While not an ager, it’s a beautiful wine to pair with tuna,
salmon, lamb or steak. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $35
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Furthermore 2009 Amber Ridge Vineyard
Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Dry and
exceptionally rich, this has a fleshiness that suggests it
could use some time in the cellar. It’s strongly ripe in
wild raspberries and cherries, with a spicy, minty pine
note that’s attractive. Mouthwatering acidity suggests
this can use 4–6 years of aging, but it can also be consumed now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Kynsi 2009 Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). The
translucency, acidity and laserlike purity of red
berry fruit make this Pinot Noir uniquely Edna Valley.
It’s as delicate as silk, yet packs a real flavor and spice
punch. Very finely crafted, it’s a fine, dry wine to drink
now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $32
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MacPhail 2010 Pratt Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 9.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $49
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MacPhail 2010 Toulouse Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). For full review see
page 9.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $49
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Saxon Brown 2009 Parmelee-Hill Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). This
small-production single-vineyard Pinot Noir is dry, elegant and may be deceptively simple in its youth. It feels
delicate now, almost fragile, with the suggestion of barely ripe cherries and cola that’s been left out overnight
so it loses its spritz. It’s a wine of nuance, not power,
and could easily develop dramatically over the next six
years. —S.H.
Price: $48
abv: 14.5%
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Belle Glos 2010 Clark & Telephone Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Very
rich and flamboyant, this may even be a little over the
top. It shows a tremendous essence of raspberries and
cherries that have been folded into mascarpone cream
and dusted with cinnamon and brown sugar. It’s delicious, seemingly sweet and dramatic, but somewhat obvious in its appeal. Even the winemaker calls it “Christmas in the mouth.” Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $44
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Black Kite 2009 River Turn Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). It’s very acidic and also
a little hot in alcohol, and the combination of the two
gives this a prickly taste and feeling. On the other hand,
it’s enormously rich and delicious in raspberries, cherries and cola, with all kinds of spicy, mushroomy, oaky
nuances. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $52
enriched with smoky oak. It seems best now and over
the next few years. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.5%
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Stemmler 2009 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
With cherry Life Saver candy flavors and lots of
zingy acidity, this has a sweet and sour taste that makes it
savory. It’s delicately structured and silky in the mouth,
and it will be good over the next six years or so. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $42
Corkscrew 2008 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). This is not a superrich wine, but it’s
elegant, fresh, vibrant and clean in acidity. It has flavors of oak-inspired cherry, Canadian bacon and spice.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $44
Handley 2009 Pinot Noir (Mendocino
County). This is a good vintage for Handley’s
Mendocino blend, a mishmash from various vineyards
throughout the county. The wine has structure and
bright acidity, with its intensity tucked between its layers. This can likely age. —V.B.
Price: $25
abv: 14.2%
Jim Ball 2009 Boonville Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). As rich, ripe and flashy as any
Pinot Noir out there. It floods the mouth with jammy
raspberries and cherries, with smoky oak sweetness like
pie crust, sprinkled with cinnamon and brown sugar.
Drink soon. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $50
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Pali 2010 Fiddlestix Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). If you’re sensitive to high alcohol in Pinot Noir, this might not be for you. If you’re
not, you’ll probably find the richness impressive. Although it’s technically dry, it seems sweet and delicious like a raspberry tart that’s sprinkled with cocoa
and brown sugar, with a buttery, smoky crust. Ready to
drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $54
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Migration 2009 Pinot Noir (Russian River
Valley). A wildly delicious Pinot Noir, offering flashy raspberry and cherry jam flavors. It’s soft and
silky, just like you want a nice Pinot to be. Drink now for
its silky, youthful appeal. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $34
Saxon Brown 2009 Durell Vineyard Hayfield Block Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast).
This tastes soft and simple now, although considering
the vineyard sourcing, that could be misleading. There’s
a core of raspberry and cherry fruit, with intriguing forest notes of dried pine needles and mushrooms. The
acidity is just right, neither bright nor too soft. The wine
isn’t showing much now, but could be a sleeper. Try after 2015. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
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Sanford 2010 La Rinconada Pinot Noir
(Sta. Rita Hills). This is curiously soft considering the cool vintage. Still, it’s delicious in raspberry and cherry jam flavors, with a spiciness that lasts
through the long finish. It seems wise to drink it now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $60
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Sonnet 2009 Muns Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s lots to like
in this interestingly textured Pinot Noir. It’s dry and
silky and has a bite of tannins that longs to dig into a
grilled steak or lamb chop. The cherry fruit flavors are
It finishes with the sweetness of toasted oak. While it’s
not particularly complex, it does offer plenty of varietal
pleasure. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $40
Stephen Ross 2009 Stone Corral Vineyard Pinot Noir (Edna Valley). There’s always lots of acidity in Pinots from the Edna Valley,
but this one has more than usual, courtesy of the cool
vintage. Although it’s tart, it’s entirely dry, and is loaded with raspberry and cherry fruit. It’s silky enough to
drink now and over the next few years. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $52
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Windstream 2010 Sarmento Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Nicely
dry, silky and delicate in structure, this has pleasant
cherry and cola flavors that are brightened by acidity.
Acacia 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). This is
a soft, rich Pinot Noir, bursting in cherry pie and
cola flavors. It has a nice edge of acidity, and it finishes
dry and exotically spicy. A textbook Carneros wine, it’s
meant to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $28
Acacia 2010 Lone Tree Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Carneros). Delicious, but kind of heavy
for a Pinot Noir. It has rich, heady flavors of cherry and
blackberry jam, touched with sweet, smoky oak, and a
spicy finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $45
Acacia 2010 Lone Tree Vineyard Barrel
Selection Pinot Noir (Carneros). This has
lots of fine, upfront cherry, cola, mocha and oak flavors in this Pinot. It’s a little on the soft side, lacking
the structure for aging. But it’s a pretty wine to drink
now. —S.H.
Price: $45
abv: 14.3%
Acacia 2010 Winery Lake Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Carneros). This pours unusually dark
for a Pinot Noir and tastes heavy, like a Grenache. It
actually tastes pretty flashy, with deep, delicious blackcherry and cola flavors, but it’s a little too full bodied
for the variety, lacking delicacy and subtlety. Drink now.
—S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $32
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Drew 2010 Valenti Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Mendocino Ridge). Elaborately rich, this
has flavors suggestive of raspberries and cherries baked
into a pie, with the brown sugar and smoky pie crust
sweetness of a pastry. That doesn’t mean the wine is
sweet; it’s actually dry, but just tastes candied. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $42
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Jim Ball 2009 Pinot Noir (Anderson Valley). This is a solid Pinot, ripe in raspberries
and cherries, with fine coastal acidity and firm tannins.
It has a silky mouthfeel the way Pinot Noir should.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $45
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Jim Ball 2009 Les Pintades Pinot Noir
(Anderson Valley). Everything about this
Pinot is upfront, but it’s beautiful. Softly appealing, with
a silky mouthfeel, it offers flattering raspberry and cherry jam flavors, with smoky, sweet, buttery notes. The
softness suggests that the wine is not ageable. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
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Pali 2010 Rancho La Viña Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Delicious and easy to
like, and even if it is a little one dimensional, it’s very
pleasant. Dry, silky and crisp, it offers upfront raspberry,
cola and new oak flavors. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15.7%
Price: $54
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Pali 2010 Windsor Oaks Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Russian River Valley). A gentle, easy
to drink Pinot, with pleasantly complex flavors of raspberry and cherry pie filling and new oak. The alcohol is
high, making for a burn that might offend Pinot purists.
But most fans will appreciate its sheer deliciousness.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 15.3%
Price: $50
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Riverbench 2010 Mesa Pinot Noir (Santa
Maria Valley). This is a full-bodied, sumptuous
Pinot Noir that’s filled with candied, pie-filling flavors
of black cherries, licorice, mocha and spices. While it’s
a bit common in texture, it does provide plenty of pleasure. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $48
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Stephen Ross 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa
Lucia Highlands). This is somewhat lean,
but its elegantly tailored in its brisk acidity and dryness. While the cherry and berry flavors are modest,
the wine’s austerity makes it versatile with an enormous
range of foods. —S.H.
Price: $38
abv: 13.5%
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Wattle Creek 2010 Pinot Noir (Yorkville
Highlands). This is a thick, earthy Pinot that
sparks thoughts of dark cherries and mushrooms among
layers of cola, spice and bacon atop toast. —V.B.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $30
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Wente 2009 Reliz Creek Pinot Noir (Arroyo Seco). Dry and elegant, with the silky
texture and cherry flavors you want in a good bottle.
Yes, it’s a little light in body and intensity, but the price
is pretty good for a Pinot with this much varietal pleasure. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Annabella 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). This isn’t the most powerful, impressive Pinot Noir from the Sonoma Coast, but it has a lot
going for it. It’s bone dry, crisply acidic and elegant on
the palate, with a flavor of sour cherry candy that’s savory and clean. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $17
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Bridlewood 2010 Pinot Noir (Monterey
County). This is a sound Pinot Noir, rich in
raspberry jam, toast and vanilla flavors, with lots of zingy
coastal acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $20
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Girasole Vineyards 2010 Pinot Noir
(Mendocino). There aren’t too many California Pinots lying around at $16. A Pinot made from
organic grapes, this has a strawberry note in the foreground, followed by a peppery, spicy undertone. With
its weight and depth on the finish, it’ll hold up to a range
of meals. —V.B.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $16
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J. Wilkes 2010 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria
Valley). A good Pinot, this is perfectly acceptable for everyday purposes. Maybe it’s a little pricy, but
you get a dry, tart wine, with cherry, cola and mushroom
flavors. Drink up. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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J. Wilkes 2009 Pinot Noir (Santa Maria
Valley). Notes of crushed spices accent the
black cherry and plum flavors of this Pinot, making it
savory. It’s a dry wine, crisp in coastal acidity and a little rough in texture. Not going anywhere, so drink up.
—S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Lockwood 2009 Pinot Noir (Monterey
County). This is dry and silky, with enough
acidity to provide life to the modest cherry and cola
flavors. It’s pretty good for the price, because in Pinot
Noir, you get what you pay for. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $17
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Pali 2010 Durell Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Made in a drink-me-now style,
this is a delicately balanced wine, rich in oak, with a
wealth of raspberries and cherries. It’s soft, delicious
and a little high in alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $54
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Riverbench 2010 Estate Grown Pinot
Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Soft and sweet in
cherry cola and spice flavors, this displays Pinot’s lovely
silkiness. It’s a nice wine, yet lacks that extra complexity
and nuance you want in the variety. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $28
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San Simeon 2010 Pinot Noir (Monterey).
A simple but likeable Pinot Noir, this is lightbodied, dry and clean, with brisk, mouthwatering acidity.
The flavors suggest cherry and raspberry Life Savers,
with a hit of mint tea. Ready to drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $24
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Sanford 2010 Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills).
This has nowhere near the complexity of Sanford’s single-vineyard bottlings. It seems pricy for what
you get, which is a basic Pinot that’s dry and silky, with
pleasant cherry candy and cola flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
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Sonoma-Loeb 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). This is a simple but delicious
Pinot Noir. It has candied cherry flavors that are sweet
and sour, with lots of toasty, vanilla-scented oak. Drink
up. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $42
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Stomping Girl 2010 Unhinged Pinot Noir
(Sonoma County). Dry, spicy and elegantly
structured, this is a little rugged around the edges in
texture, but the black raspberry and cola flavors are
savory. —S.H.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $28
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giving it a tingly scour. While it’s silky and dry, the cherry
fruit is a little slender. —S.H.
Price: $18
abv: 13.5%
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Fleur 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros). What
this Pinot is not is ageable and dramatic, but
it’s a good expression of the variety: silky and dry, with
savory cherry-skin and spice flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $17
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Sonnet 2009 Tondre’s Grapefield Pinot
Noir (Santa Lucia Highlands). Some unripe vegetal notes mar what is otherwise a fine, silky
Pinot Noir, with flavors of raspberry cream and cinnamon spice. Give this lots of breathing before you drink
it. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
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Stephen Ross 2010 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley).
Tight, acidic and a little green, this lacks the generosity
and opulence you expect of a Pinot Noir from this famous vineyard. The cherry fruit is laced with mint and
tobacco leaf notes. Drink now. —S.H.
Price: $38
abv: 14.5%
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Stomping Girl 2010 Pinot Noir (Russian
River Valley). Dry and tart in sour cherry candy and cola flavors, this Pinot has hints of mint and tobacco that suggest the grapes weren’t completely ripe.
Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $36
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Villa Mt. Eden 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma
Coast). Although it’s not especially rich, it
does offer basic Pinot Noir characteristics, with a silky
mouthfeel framing sour cherry-candy flavors that are
brightened with acidity. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $20
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Drew 2010 Weir Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yorkville Highlands). There’s a Porty overripeness all through this wine, like concentrated raisins and
prunes. Although it’s basically dry, it has a raisiny sweetness, especially toward the finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $42
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Kirkland Signature 2009 Pinot Noir
(Carneros). Simple, dry and one dimensional,
this has cola and cherry jam flavors, and a silky, delicate
texture. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $10
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Sean Minor 2010 Pinot Noir (Carneros).
Simple and agreeable, this can be paired with
a burger or beef taco. It’s dry and clean, with pleasant
cherry and cola flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $22
Baldacci 2010 Elizabeth Pinot Noir
(Carneros). Cabernet specialist Baldacci tries
their hand at Pinot Noir, and what do you know? It’s a
Cabernet-esque Pinot, which means its heavy and full
bodied. There’s plenty of savory blackberry essence,
but the challenge is to bring grace and lightness to this
variety. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $40
Stephen Ross 2010 Pinot Noir (Central
Coast). Dry and acidic, this has flavors of green
mint and sour cherry candy. Not likely to improve with
age, but give it an hour in the decanter to let it soften.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $24
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Cline 2010 Cool Climate Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). Acidity dominates this Pinot,
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Walt 2010 Hein Family Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Anderson Valley). The first noticeable
WineMag.com | 63
aspect is that it seems to have no structure. The cherry, cola and pomegranate flavors have been elaborately
oaked, but there’s nothing for the mouth to grip onto.
—S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $60
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Calcareous 2009 Grenache (Paso Robles). This is a harsh, sweet wine whose balance and mouthfeel are slightly off. It has ripe, Gren
ache-like flavors of cherry pie filling. —S.H.
abv: 15.2%
Price: $36
find lots to like here. It’s soft, dryish and rich in black
cherry, mocha, grilled meat and black pepper flavors.
Oak adds just the right touch of sweet vanilla and toast.
—S.H.
Price: $42
abv: 15%
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Chime 2010 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County). A light style of Pinot Noir, this is dry and
racy. It offers good persimmon and cola flavors, and is
very spicy. A trace of green is distracting. —S.H.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $19
10 Knots 2009 Moonraker Grenache
(Paso Robles). Hot in alcohol, simple in everything else, this Grenache has thin, overripe pruny
flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $35
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SYRAH/SHIRAZ
Bogle 2010 Pinot Noir (California). A small
Pinot Noir, this is dry and vegetal, with modest
cherry flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $11
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Decoy 2011 Pinot Noir (Sonoma County).
Dry and delicately structured, with sour cherry
Life Saver flavors. There’s a disagreeably green, unripe
streak that is distracting. —S.H.
Price: $22
abv: 13.9%
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Fleur 2010 Pinot Noir (Central Coast).
Not much going on in this dry, acidic Pinot Noir.
The cherry fruit is thin, allowing the alcohol to show
through. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $15
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Heart O’ The Mountain 2009 Pinot Noir
(Santa Cruz Mountains). Soft and simple,
this has overripe prune-jam flavors. It tastes baked and
dessicated by the heat. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $48
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Heart O’ The Mountain 2009 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains).
This is too ripe, with a disagreeable pruny taste. The
wine is dry and full bodied, but is almost like a minor
Port. The official alcohol reading is 14.8% by volume,
but it tastes higher and hotter than that. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $48
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Gracianna 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir (Russian River Valley). Green, unripe vegetal flavors mark this Pinot Noir. It does have
some decent raspberry and cherry flavors, but turns
sour on the finish. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $48
GRENACHE
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a-non-ah-mus 2009 Alisos Vineyard
Gren
ache (Santa Barbara County). This
has notes of raspberries, cherries and whipped cream.
It’s addictively drinkable, showing none of the problems Grenache so often encounters. Enjoy it now for its
fresh, irrepressible appeal. —S.H.
abv: 15.6%
Price: $30
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Austin Hope 2010 Grenache (Paso Robles). This polished wine is rich, dry and pretty
much as complex as Grenache manages to get in California. With the weight of a silky Pinot Noir, it has pleasant cherry, teriyaki beef and white pepper flavors, with a
touch of overripe raisin on the finish. —S.H.
Price: $42
abv: 15%
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Montagna 2009 Triangle Syrah (Napa Valley). Made in a rich, ripe style that perhaps favors power over elegance, this is delicious from start to
finish. It’s a big, intense wine, massive in blackberry and
mocha flavors, with a bacon meatiness that’s part Syrah,
part smoky oak. While it’s a little obvious in its appeals,
it does show Syrah at its flashy Napa best. —S.H.
Price: $60
abv: 15.1%
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La Sirena 2007 Barrett Vineyard Syrah
(Calistoga). This Syrah tries to strike a balance between rich opulence and controlled elegance,
and it largely succeeds. It’s has exquisite tannins and
fine acidity, finishing bone dry. The flavors are complex,
immediately suggesting ripe blackberries, with notes of
beef tartare, grilled wild mushrooms splashed with tamari, black pepper and minerals. You can draw analogies
to the northern Rhône if you want. Will it age? Hard to
say, but it’s a great wine now. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $75
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Super Sonoman 2008 Syrah (Sonoma
County). This is delicious, right up there with
a great Cabernet. First of all, there’s the smoothly tannic
and velvety mouthfeel. Then there’s the flavors that are
wildly attractive in blackberries, black licorice, crispy
bacon and something purple and flowery, like violets.
The grapes comes from a vineyard in the Mayacamas
range that only qualifies for the county appellation. It’s
expensive, yes, but it tastes expensive. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $55
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a-non-ah-mus 2009 Alisos Vineyard Syrah (Santa Barbara County). This is made in
a ripe, high-alcohol style, which gives it a little burning sensation, like Cognac. The flavors certainly are
delicious, exploding with blackberries, blueberries, dark
chocolate and roasted oak. The tannin-acid structure is
intricate and smooth. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
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Vagabond 2009 Syrah (Napa Valley). A
nice interpretation of Syrah, this shows fine
Napa elegance and structure. Dry and complex, this
100% Syrah has flavors of ripe, crushed blackberry fruit,
raw beef, iron and black pepper, with a touch of smoky
oak. Try now with beef tartare or carpaccio for something different. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $60
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Austin Hope 2010 Hope Family Vineyard
Syrah (Paso Robles). High alcohol gives this
wine a slight burn, but if that doesn’t bother you, you’ll
Carr 2009 Morehouse Vineyard Syrah
(Santa Ynez Valley). This Syrah is considerably lighter in body than you’d expect for a variety that’s
often heavy and full bodied. It has the silkiness of a Pinot Noir, and it’s dry and complex in wild berry, leather,
black pepper and cedar flavors. It shows lots of elegance
throughout, and could even pick up bottle notes over
the next six years. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $50
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Four Cairn 2010 Syrah (Napa Valley). The
last few vintages of this wine have been variable.
This one plays it safe, going right down the middle in
delivering blackberry, peppered steak and new oak flavors. It’s a little on the soft side, suggesting that it’s ready
to drink now. —S.H.
Price: $38
abv: 14.7%
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Drew 2010 Perli Vineyard Syrah (Mendocino Ridge). Made from low-yielding
vines, this is an absolutely dry Syrah—acidic and tannic.
It doesn’t show much richness, bearing black pepper,
iodine and charred beef flavors, with a deep inner core
of wild blackberries. It’s complex rather than opulent—
a wine to experience through the intellect, not just the
senses. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $38
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Corkscrew 2007 Syrah (Sonoma Coast).
Marked by dryness, brisk tannins and tart acidity, this Syrah’s saving grace are rich flavors of black
berries, teriyaki beef and Baker’s chocolate. Your best
bet is to drink it soon. —S.H.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $35
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Niner 2008 Bootjack Ranch Syrah (Paso
Robles). Niner has been nothing if not consistent with this Syrah for years. The 2008 tastes as fresh
as the day it was bottled. It’s rich and spicy in flavors of
blackberry, roasted meat and black pepper. It’s a little
country in its rustic texture and a little city in its charms.
Drink now with beef stew, tamales, tacos or barbecued
ribs. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $25
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San Simeon 2008 Syrah (Paso Robles).
This Syrah is bone dry, tannic and simple. The
blackberry jam and pepper flavors are tasty, but unable
to rise above the astringency. Drink now. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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San Simeon 2008 Syrah (Monterey).
There’s too much acidity in this Syrah. It cuts
across the blackberry flavors like a hot knife. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $25
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Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Shiraz (California). This is thin and uninspiring, but it’s dry,
with watery berry and spice flavors. —S.H.
abv: 13%
Price: $8
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Paredon 2007 Syrah (Santa Barbara
County). This Syrah is overripe. It has a taste
of raisins and prunes—a baked, Porty quality—like the
grapes had been grilled before being made into wine.
—S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
PETITE SIRAH
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Girard 2010 Petite Sirah (Napa Valley).
Girard’s recent Petite Sirahs have been great,
really defining a Napa approach to the variety, and their
2010 is right up there. It’s fairly high in alcohol, but
there’s no trace of overripeness. You’ll find delicious
blackberry jam, black currant, grilled bacon and black
pepper flavors that finish dry, spicy and above all, satisfying. Wonderful now, but it should easily negotiate the
next 10 years in the bottle. Cellar Selection. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
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Keating 2009 Petite Sirah (Rockpile).
A big, strong, bold Petite Sirah, showing the
variety’s usual power, dryness and tannins. The warmto-hot Rockpile appellation has ripened the wine to an
incredible density of blackberries and roasted meats,
yet the wine shows finesse despite its high alcohol. This
will age for many years without developing additional
interest, so drink now with lusty barbecue or beef and
game stews. —S.H.
Price: $38
abv: 15.1%
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Varozza 2008 Petite Sirah (St. Helena).
This is a strongly flavored, brawny, tannic and
heady wine. In other words, it’s classic Petite Sirah. The
variety does particularly well in St. Helena, whose heat
brings extra ripeness, but whose cool nights preserve
acidity. Varozza’s ’08 has delicious flavors of black currant, plum, bacon and black pepper; it should last at
least a decade. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $50
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Oak Grove 2010 Reserve Petite Sirah
(California). This doesn’t taste quite ripe, with
its green, stemmy flavors, but it’s sugary sweet in cherry
Life Saver candy. —S.H.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $8
ed in sweet raspberry and cherry fruit, it’s basically all
about jam. It’s a delicious wine, a little on the rustic
side, but appealing. The sweetness, tannins and acidity
should allow this to pair well with Mexican food. —S.H.
Price: $28
abv: 15%
ZINFANDEL
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Dry Creek Vineyard 2009 Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This Zinfandel,
made using grapes from vines the winery says average
90 years of age, is pretty and polished. It’s surprisingly
light in body, with a silky, transparent mouthfeel, but
the flavors are very complex. The usual wild berry and
tobacco flavors are apparent, but there are extra notes of
espresso, cocoa, sweet herb, beef jerky and an extravagant array of dusty Asian spices. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
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V. Sattui 2009 Gilsson Vineyard Zinfandel
(Russian River Valley). The winery has been
on a roll the last few years with Zinfandels that not only
are delicious, but show real class. With this bottling. V.
Sattui captures the essence of ripe, heady Russian River
Zinfandel. Yes, the alcohol is high, but that’s Zinfandel
for you, and without it you wouldn’t have that ripe, spicy
berry-pie flavor that’s as soft as candy. Ready to drink
now. —S.H.
Price: $37
abv: 15%
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V. Sattui 2009 Ramazzotti Vineyard Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). This lusty Zin
shows the briary, brambly character of Dry Creek Valley that always makes its Zins taste a little rustic, which
in no way detracts from its deliciousness. Dry and rich
in tannins, it has long, deep flavors of spices, perfectly
ripe summer berries and an herbal bitterness suggestive
of chamomile tea and wild nettles. A better pizza wine
cannot be imagined. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $36
Niner 2008 Bootjack Ranch Petite Sirah
(Paso Robles). There’s a tight, tannic coarseness to this Petite Sirah that makes it a little bitter and
difficult. On the other hand, it’s elegantly structured,
with a rich core of blackberries. This suggests ageability,
it could improve in the bottle. —S.H.
Price: $24
abv: 14.4%
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Fleur 2009 Petite Sirah (North Coast). A
light style of Petite Sirah, this is softly drinkable
now, offering a wealth of cherry, mocha and tobacco flavors and gentle tannins. —S.H.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $13
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Field Stone 2008 Staten Family Reserve
Petite Sirah (Alexander Valley). A thin
wine, this has light blackberry fruit, and while it’s nicely
dry, the tannins are strong and sticky, and the alcohol
is very high, lending a slight burn to the palate. —S.H.
abv: 15.5%
Price: $35
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Pennywise 2010 Petite Sirah (California).
A simple, rustic wine, this is fairly sweet and
tannic, with blackberry and raisin flavors. A burger or
sloppy Joe on a bun will be just fine as a pairing. —S.H.
abv: 14%
Price: $12
Kunde 2009 Reserve Century Vines Zinfandel (Sonoma Valley). This is not Kunde’s
best Reserve, but its entirely satisfying. It floods the
mouth with lusty, spicy flavors of wild berry, currant,
cola and tobacco that are wrapped into intricately woven tannins. It finishes dry, but a little hot. —S.H.
Price: $40
abv: 14.9%
Gracianna 2010 Bacigalupi Vineyard Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). There are
massive flavors in this wine, and they’re delicious. It just
floods the mouth with milk chocolate, raspberry cream
and cherry pie-filling flavors. The wine is pretty high
in alcohol, but it’s a classically rich, ripe Sonoma Zin.
—S.H.
abv: 15.9%
Price: $42
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Lake Sonoma 2009 Zinfandel (Dry Creek
Valley). Dry and spicy, this has lots of upfront
fruit in the form of wild raspberries and cherries, and
rich tannins that make it great for pairing with grilled
steaks and chops. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $18
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Miro 2010 Grist Vineyard Old Vines Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). So concentrat-
Miro 2010 Piccetti Vineyard Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). With its tangy acidity,
touches of green peppercorns and edgy tannins, this
is a rustic wine. Fortunately, it has a lot of blackberry
and dark chocolate flavors, with that distinctive briary
character of Dry Creek Zins. Drink now with roasted or
grilled meats or a vegetarian lasagna. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $28
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Ancient Peaks 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). Here’s a rich, heady Zinfandel. It defines
the ripe, warm-climate style, with flavors of wild berry
jam, chocolate and spice that are wrapped into firm tannins. With a slightly sweet finish, it’s a nice Zin to drink
with barbecue. —S.H.
Price: $17
abv: 15%
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The Federalist 2009 Visionary Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). This is a soft, easy-drinking Zinfandel to enjoy now with everything from meatballs and spaghetti to barbecue. It’s dry and silky, with
pleasant raspberry, cherry and spice flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $25
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Crooked Path 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). You can call this wine country-style because it’s a simple little Zin, but it has a certain charm.
Drink it with a nice pizza or meatball hoagie and enjoy
the black raspberry and pepper flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $24
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XYZin 2010 10 Year Old Vines Zinfandel (California). Robust and lusty, spicy and
fruity, this has sweet berry and cola flavors. Drink it with
savory fare, like pizza and barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $16
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Decoy 2010 Zinfandel (Sonoma County).
Simple, fruity and sweet tasting, this has chocolate-covered raisin and blueberry jam flavors. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $22
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Minassian-Young 2010 1000 Vines Zinfandel (Paso Robles). This seems sweet like
a Port. It tastes like raspberry and cherry jam, with lots
of heat from the alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 14.8%
Price: $25
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Minassian-Young 2010 Estate Zinfandel
(Paso Robles). With very high alcohol, this is
almost a dessert, Port-style wine. It’s soft and hot, with
sweet blackberry jam, milk chocolate and licorice flavors. —S.H.
abv: 15.4%
Price: $25
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Napa Cellars 2010 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). This is a vigorous Zinfandel, fruity and
soft, with berry, cola and spice flavors. Drink now with
barbecue, burgers or beef burritos. —S.H.
abv: 14.7%
Price: $18
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Plungerhead 2010 Old Vine Zinfandel (Dry Creek Valley). The mouthfeel has
sandpapery tannins and some green peppercorn notes
alongside riper flavors of blackberries and sweet currants. It’s a rustic Zin to drink with barbecue. —S.H.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $20
OTHER RED WINES
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Twisted Sisters 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). This is for you, if you like your Zins in a
sweet, soft style. It tastes like the filling from a black
berry and cherry pie, dusted with exotic spices, like cinnamon and black pepper. —S.H.
abv: 15.8%
Price: $20
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V. Sattui 2009 Mounts Vineyard Zinfandel
(Dry Creek Valley). There’s an unripe, green
edge to this Zinfandel that detracts from its appeal. Yet
it has some good blackberry fruit, and it’s nicely dry and
tannic. Pair this with rich meats and cheeses to coax out
the sweetness. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $35
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Zinopolis 2011 Zinfandel (California).
This is nowhere near ripe, with chlorophyll,
white pepper and tobacco flavors. But the tannins are
rich and fine, and the finish is dry. Drink with sausages
to coax out the cherry flavor. —S.H.
abv: NA
Price: $19
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Calcareous 2010 Zinfandel (Paso Robles). This seems so sweet, it’s practically a
Port dessert wine. It’s soft and simple, with chocolate
and blackberry jam flavors. —S.H.
abv: 16.2%
Price: $34
SANGIOVESE
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Carr 2009 Vandale Vineyard Sangiovese
(Santa Ynez Valley). This Sangiovese is
marked by two things, extreme dryness and high acidity.
It’s as light in the mouth as a Pinot Noir, with measured
flavors of red cherries, raisins and pepper, and a toasty
jacket of new oak. You can drink it now, but it needs rich
Italian fare, with lots of cheese, olive oil and fatty meats,
to tame those acids. —S.H.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $35
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Eberle 2009 Hidden Valley Vineyard 51%,
Wine Bush Vineyard 36%, Filipponi &
Thompson Vineyard 13% Sangiovese (Paso Robles). Eberle’s Sangioveses are always dry, acidic and
cherried. On their own, they’re tight, rustic little monsters. Drink them with appropriate fare, and suddenly
you’re in Tuscany. Get out your Italian cookbook and
find something with beef, fettucine, ragu and plenty of
cheese. —S.H.
abv: 15%
Price: $24
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Muscardini 2009 Monto Rosso Vineyard
Sangiovese (Sonoma Valley). You’ll want
to drink this wine with beef, cheese and richly sauced
foods, in order to balance out the dryness and acidity.
On its own, it’s austere, with cherry and sandalwood flavors. Rich, fatty fare will tame it and bring out the sweet
fruit. —S.H.
abv: 15.7%
Price: $36
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Ballentine 2008 Estate Grown Pocai
Vineyard Cabernet Franc (Napa Valley).
abv: 14.5%
Price: $30
Kunde 2009 Limited Selection Petite Verdot (Sonoma Valley). A wonderful wine, one
of the best Petite Verdots in California, although the
truth is there aren’t all that many. It’s sturdy in tannins
and richly textured, with delicious blackberry flavors
that are a little earthier and drier than Cabernet Sauvignon. —S.H.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $35
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Peachy Canyon 2009 Ms. Behave Malbec
(Paso Robles). Lots of flashy, upfront blackberry and tamari-splashed grilled-beef flavor in this
tasty wine. Plenty of savory spices, too. It’s a little rugged in the mouth, with scoury tannins, but will play well
with beef, any way you cook it. —S.H.
Price: $32
abv: 14.5%
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Wattle Creek 2009 Malbec (Alexander
Valley). A dry, gritty red wine, lusty and tannic. The blackberry, cassis liqueur and smoky oak flavors
suggest pairing with charred steak. —S.H.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $38
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Eberle 2010 Steinbeck Vineyard 48%, Kokopelli Vineyard 43%, Partridge Vineyard
9% Barbera (Paso Robles). Four qualities distinguish this Barbera. It’s bone dry, high in acidity, rigidly tannic and rich in cherries. By itself, it’s rustic and
old-fashioned. But it’s the kind of wine the oldtimers
drank with the cheese, meat, bread and sauce, and so
should you. Like any respectable Barbera, it will age for
decades, softening and sweetening without necessarily
gaining complexity. —S.H.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $28
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Robert Mondavi 2011 Moscato d’Oro
(Napa Valley). This wine has plenty of honeyed sweetness. The apricot, orange and vanilla flavors
are just delicious. Crisp acidity provides the perfect
zesty balance. —S.H.
abv: 8%
Price: $20/375 ml
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be more concentrated, as it’s a little thin. The variety is
Petite Sirah. —S.H.
abv: 18.5%
Price: $50
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Valley of the Moon 2007 Late Bottled Vintage Port (Sonoma County). Intense sweetness goes a long way toward making this dessert wine
delicious and satisfying. While it’s a bit lacking in fruity
concentration, it does have good blackberry and milk
chocolate flavors. —S.H.
abv: 19%
Price: $30/500 ml
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Lost Angel 2010 Moscato (California).
Rides the wave of the Moscato craze in America, offering sweet, honeyed flavors of tropical fruits,
oranges and peaches. Zesty acidity provides just the
tartness needed to balance all that richness. Best Buy.
—S.H.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $10
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Black Box 2010 Sweet Red Blend (California). Black Box hops onto the popular sweet
red wine train with this blend. It is, as advertised, sweet,
but not too much, giving a sugary edge to the blackberries and cherries. Best Buy. —S.H.
Price: $25/3 L
abv: 12.8%
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Peju NV Delicias Zinfandel (Napa Valley).
Despite lots of sugary sweetness and a fine burst
of acidity, this dessert-style wine is watery thin in flavor.
The raspberries and cherries taste diluted, leaving behind the impression of hot, high alcohol. —S.H.
abv: 17.9%
Price: $50/375 ml
OREGON
CHARDONNAY
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Adelsheim 2010 Caitlin’s Reserve Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Showing a lot
of barrel toast in both nose and mouth, this backs its
buttered apple flavor with plenty of acidity. It’s like biting into a crisp-tasting slice of apple pie; delicious now,
or hold for another 4–6 years. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $45
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Adelsheim 2010 Chardonnay (Willamette
Valley). Fine balance is a hallmark for all
Adelsheim wines. This shows a mix of citrus and apple
fruit, with the tartness of gooseberries as a nod to the
cooler vintage. There is some pleasing complexity, with
an emphasis on herbs and high-acid fruits. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $22
Ballentine 2011 Betty’s Vineyard Malvasia Bianca (St. Helena). Could almost be
classified as a dry table wine, it’s so rich in acidity and
minerally on the finish. However, there’s just enough
honey to call it off-dry and dessert style. Either way, it’s
a stylish wine, crisp and clean, with orange and pear flavors. Great as a simple accompaniment to fresh fruit,
ricotta or mascarpone dishes. —S.H.
abv: 9.5%
Price: $29
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Field Stone 2008 Staten Family Reserve
Vintage Port (Alexander Valley). This is
quite a sweet wine, rich and heady in chocolate, blackberry and blueberry jam and caramel flavors. It could
Lange 2010 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Fresh and spicy, this tart young Chard has
a streak of wintergreen mint. Aged in a mix of stainless
steel and neutral French oak, it’s an excellent seafood
wine. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $16
Lange 2010 Three Hills Cuvée Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). This reserve-level
Chardonnay does not outperform the winery’s regular
bottling. Some light cinnamon spice adorns the clean,
simple green-apple fruit. —P.G.
Price: $30
abv: 13.1%
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Witness Tree 2010 Estate Chardonnay
(Willamette Valley). Forward and lightly
toasty, this barrel-fermented Chard is a very nice summertime sipping wine. Apple and stone fruits combine
in a gentle, forward, nicely balanced white wine. —P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $15
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A to Z 2011 Chardonnay (Oregon). Clean,
forward, simple apple and herb flavors combine. This is a serviceable, all-purpose Chardonnay, that
finishes just a bit sour. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $14
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Amalie Robert 2010 Her Silhouette Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Oregon Chardonnay in the low 12% alcohol range is well out of the
ordinary, but it reflects the vintage conditions in 2010.
This is a wine for acid lovers, with very tart green-apple
fruit and a bit of spice. —P.G.
abv: 12.4%
Price: $22
PINOT GRIS
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Ponzi 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Fragrant with floral notes, lemony fruit
and hints of apricot, this is a tangy, textural take on Pinot
Gris. Fermented in stainless steel and released young, it
retains a bright and stylish profile right through a lingering finish, with a touch of sweetness. Editors’ Choice.
—P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
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David Hill 2011 Estate Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Though low in alcohol even by
David Hill standards, this excellent Pinot Gris does not
lack fruit or flavor. Ripe and tasting of pretty pear and
orange fruit, it shows evidence of some well-balanced
residual sugar. Vivid acidity cuts through to a satisfying
finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $17
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Seven Hills 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). A
glorious, grapefruity, lusciously fresh Pinot Gris,
this new vintage from Seven Hills is made for a summer afternoon. This has notes of citrus and melon, with
highlights of mint and a hint of pepper, keeping it lively
and interesting all through the refreshing finish. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
Price: $17
abv: 12.3%
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Lange 2011 Reserve Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Aged in neutral French oak,
this Pinot Gris retains a lively, palate-cleansing acidity.
It’s consistent in style and flavor with the regular bottling, but this has added depth and richness. Fruit flavors of sweet Macintosh apples give it a pretty finish.
—P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $22
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Terrapin Cellars 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This light and leesy wine has
excellent focus and refreshing minerality. Flavors of
melon and kiwi highlight a complex but delicate wine,
with lingering flavors and refreshing crispness. Best
Buy. —P.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $14
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Coeur de Terre 2011 Pinot Gris (McMinnville). Tart and racy, this is a European-style,
aromatic and elegant take on Pinot Gris. Whiffs of celery, apple and citrus rind lead into flavors of grapefruit
and lychee. This is definitely a great apéritif wine to enjoy chilled. —P.G.
abv: 12.6%
Price: $17
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King Estate 2011 Signature Pinot Gris
(Oregon). This is a benchmark rendition of
Pinot Gris. The flavors are fruit driven, with lime, apple
and pear notes combining on the smooth, relatively soft
midpalate. This is a consistent wine, even with its production level of 100,000 cases. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $17
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Lange 2011 Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This is a brisk, minerally, quite fresh white
wine. The cool vintage and low alcohol sets the flavors in
the cucumber and apple corridor. Acids are firm but not
sour; it’s a fine white wine for summer sipping. —P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $17
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A to Z 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon). Bright,
tangy flavors of grapefruit and pear are mixed
with skin tannins and a hint of minerality. There’s a
slightly herbal edge, but this wine delivers a lot of flavor
for the modest price. Best Buy. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
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Kings Ridge 2011 Pinot Gris (Oregon).
This is tart and steely, with a flavor of pear skin
rather than pear flesh, along with a green apple note
and a whiff of grapefruit. Sharply acidic, it’s a wine that
should pair well with spicy Asian cuisine. —P.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $13
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RoxyAnn 2010 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley).
Gin-like botanical nuances in the nose introduce a sharp, rather stiff and hard Pinot Gris. Grapefruit and lemon rind flavors, along with plenty of acidity,
seem less ripe than the 14.3% alcohol would suggest.
—P.G.
abv: 14.3%
Price: $17
OTHER WHITE WINES
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Ghost Hill Cellars 2011 Bayliss-Bower
Vineyard Pinot Noir Blanc (Yamhill-Carlton District). Stainless-steel fermented and the color
of wheat, this still white wine is stylish and compelling.
If you’ve wondered why anyone would bother to make
a white Pinot Noir, this is the answer. It’s fragrant with
sweet grass and melon, then the flavors follow along
with grapefruit and kiwi. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $25
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Ponzi 2011 Arneis (Willamette Valley).
Unique and pungent, with hints of diesel, green
fruit and celery, this has some bite to it. Despite a green
edge, it is precise and focused, with good grip and concentration. —P.G.
abv: 12.5%
Price: $25
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Amalie Robert 2010 Our Muse Viognier
(Willamette Valley). Silky, spicy and roundly
fruity, this estate-grown Viognier brings fruit flavors of
citrus, melon and a hint of pineapple. Nicely woven together, it finishes with a citrus rind edge that’s softened
with a suggestion of cream. —P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $30
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Troon 2011 ’72 Vermentino (Applegate
Valley). Troon lays claim to making the first
Vermentino in Oregon, and it’s more than just a curiosity. Though tawny and heading toward early oxidation,
the wine is drinking well, with a pretty nose of gunflint,
apple pie and white peach aromas. The low alcohol reflects a wine of restraint and balance. —P.G.
abv: 12%
Price: $18
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Witness Tree 2010 Estate Pinot Blanc
(Willamette Valley). Spicy, toasted coconut
scents reflect barrel fermentation. The rather deep
straw color suggests a wine that is maturing quickly.
Pleasant drinking, but don’t wait. —P.G.
abv: 12.9%
Price: $15
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Left Coast Cellars 2010 Left Bank Pinot
Blanc (Willamette Valley). The first bottle
was off, with an unpleasant mousy aroma. A second
bottle fared a bit better, showing simple citrus and sour
melon flavors. It finishes a bit thin. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $18
ROSÉ
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Ghost Hill Cellars 2011 The Spirit Of
Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). This
pretty rosé has flavors of tart salmonberry and wild
raspberry, with plenty of citrusy acidity. Good balance
throughout. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
PINOT NOIR
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Francis Tannahill 2009 The Hermit Pinot
Noir (Dundee Hills). Beautifully structured,
this very limited bottling offers complex, tightly wound,
finely spun red fruit. The depth and detail suggest that
further cellaring will be well rewarded. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $48
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Lachini Vineyards 2009 Lachini Family
Estate Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains).
Much in the style of the outstanding 2008, this elegant,
Burgundian-like Pinot Noir is a finessed wine, with
lovely details of rose petal and penetrating raspberry
fruit. There’s a pleasing transparency, keeping it light
without losing focus or depth, and the finely rendered
tannins put the perfect period at the end of the sentence. Editors’ Choice. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $45
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Rex Hill 2009 La Colina Pinot Noir
(Dundee Hills). There is a nice lift to the aromas, which focus on sweet black-cherry fruit. Streaks of
cola and brown sugar come into play in the mouth, but
the rich fruit is the star of the show. —P.G.
Price: $52
abv: 15.5%
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William Hatcher 2008 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Full bodied and complex, this
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is a fleshy Pinot Noir with fruit flavors that run from
mulberry to spicy plum. Streaks of Dr. Pepper and some
black pepper add finishing highlights. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $48
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Coeur de Terre 2009 Renelle’s Block Reserve Pinot Noir (McMinnville). Supple and
distinctive, this reserve-level wine offers flavors of blueberry and black cherry, unusual curry and east Indian
spice, and an earthy base. It was sourced from the vineyard’s oldest block of estate fruit. —P.G.
abv: 13.9%
Price: $58
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Ghost Hill Cellars 2010 Bayliss-Bower
Vineyard Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton District). From a lighter year, this clean, delicate wine is
a model of elegance. Mixing strawberry and raspberry
fruit with a touch of watermelon, it carefully blends in a
small amount of wine aged in new oak. An enticing hint
of mocha is the result. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $42
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Gresser Vineyard 2009 Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). Nicely focused, with a
core of wild strawberry and black cherry, this bears herb
and pepper highlights common to Oregon Pinot. It has
a nice mouthfeel and is balanced throughout. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
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Lachini Vineyards 2008 Cuvée Giselle Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). At first
taste, this is a difficult wine to evaluate because of its
tight, compact and tannic structure. Pomegranate and
strawberry fruits slowly emerge from a shell of earthy
tannins, suggesting that with a few more years in the
bottle this will evolve into a broader, more expressive
wine. Cellar Selection. —P.G.
abv: 13.8%
Price: $65
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Lange 2010 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Lange’s reserve has a resonant,
spicy depth that elevates it above the well-made regular
bottling. Tight and showing medium concentration, it
shows a herb accent, with earthy tannins framing the
tart cherry fruit. A hint of coconut marks the finish.
—P.G.
abv: 13.3%
Price: $32
toasty oak, which run through the penetrating finish.
—P.G.
abv: 13.2%
Price: $24
in 60% new French oak adds a note of vanilla as well.
—P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $24
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Witness Tree 2010 Estate Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Clean and straightforward,
this is textbook Oregon Pinot Noir. Streaks and nuances
of herb, resin and earth are matched to flavors of wild
berry. A year maturing in 20% new French oak lends
the finish a hint of toast. —P.G.
Price: $26
abv: 13.1%
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Rex Hill 2009 Roserock Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The fruit carries a pleasing
sweetness onto the herb-flavored midpalate. Then aggressive flavors of stem and grape skin emerge, though
perhaps they’re too dominant. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $52
Rex Hill 2009 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir
(Yamhill-Carlton District). Though the listed alcohol tops 15%, this remains a fruity and rather
simple wine, with dominating flavors of raspberry and
cherry cola. As good as it is, this could use a bit more
muscle. —P.G.
abv: 15.1%
Price: $58
Witness Tree 2010 Vintage Select Pinot
Noir (Willamette Valley). Though it was given twice as many new French oak barrels as the Estate
bottling, this Vintage Select could be its twin. Solid and
balanced, it mixes berry, herb and earth components,
making for a well-structured, no-frills wine. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $40
Gresser Vineyard 2009 Vineyard Select
Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). This is
quite soft and pretty, a charming wine with appealing
flavors of rose water, cherry and sandalwood. Not for
keeping, but most enjoyable right now. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $18
Rex Hill 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The nose features pleasing scents of toasty
barrel, but the palate turns a bit rough. Chewy, herbal
flavors compete with tart red fruits before heading into
a tannic, earthy finish. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $35
Left Coast Cellars 2009 Right Bank
Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This blend
is comprised frion various single-vineyard plots of
Pommard clone Pinot Noir. Ripeness is an issue here.
There’s pepper, tomato leaf and bitter herb flavors,
while the fruit feels thin and finishes quickly. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $30
Pali 2010 Shea Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). The light and fruity flavors of
young vines dominate here, tart and sharp in this cool
vintage. Raspberry and light herb open into a delicate,
short, somewhat attenuated wine. —P.G.
abv: 13.6%
Price: $50
Rex Hill 2009 Jacob-Hart Vineyard Pinot
Noir (Chehalem Mountains). At first, the
bright Bing cherry fruit carries suggestions of anise and
mint, but in the mouth the wine does not deliver all that
the nose promises. The tannins turn aggressively bitter.
This falls short of the outstanding 2008. —P.G.
Price: $58
abv: 13.7%
Rex Hill 2009 Reserve Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This has appealing scents of
cherry fruit at first, then it quickly hits a wall and stops
short. No amount of breathing time can make it budge.
—P.G.
abv: 14.5%
Price: $48
Witness Tree 2010 Chainsaw Pinot Noir
(Willamette Valley). This is the least expensive of the Witness Tree Pinots, and the most widely
available. Light and pretty, with apple and raspberry
fruit flavors, it’s well made, though slender in feel.
—P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $20
A to Z 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). This was a
cool, difficult vintage, and the wine reflects that
with strong flavors of tomato juice and herb. A touch of
tart pomegranate comes through also. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $20
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Lachini Vineyards 2010 S Pinot Noir
(Chehalem Mountains). Light as a cloud,
this matches strawberry and raspberry fruit to a delicate
frame of juicy acids and fine-tuned tannins. Crisp and
ethereal, it is nonetheless thoroughly satisfying, with
both length and complexity. —P.G.
abv: 13.7%
Price: $48
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Amalie Robert 2009 Wadenswil Clone Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). A smooth entry leads into a pleasant midpalate with pretty mixedfruit flavors of pomegranate, tart berry and Bing cherry.
Light baking spices add further detail, with a streak of
cola and sassafras to wrap it up. —P.G.
abv: 14.2%
Price: $50
Lange 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This well-made Pinot sports tart straw
berry and raspberry fruit, focused and lightly spicy. In
the heart of the wine are accents of sandalwood and
William Hatcher 2009 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Tart red fruit is swathed in
slightly green, tannic, earthy notes that shorten the finish. Give it plenty of breathing time and it fleshes out a
bit. —P.G.
abv: 14%
Price: $48
Coeur de Terre 2010 Oregon Pinot Noir
(McMinnville). Peppery and leaning to an
herbal set of flavors, this compensates with details of
earth and bark, and a core of tart berry. This was a cool
vintage in Oregon, but the winemaking is balanced and
clean. —P.G.
abv: 13.4%
Price: $20
Left Coast Cellars 2009 Cali’s Cuvée Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). This is a decent, midpriced Pinot, soft and round, with light strawberry flavors and a streak of licorice. The 18 months
Seven of Hearts 2010 Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Quite light, but pretty, with
delicate cherry and chocolate flavors. There is a bit of a
hole in the middle, but it’s a decent quaff in a difficult
vintage. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $20
Underwood Cellars 2010 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Pungent and assertive, this budgetpriced Pinot mixes wild berry fruit with accents of pine
needle and herb. —P.G.
abv: 13%
Price: $12
SYRAH
88
Troon 2008 Reserve Syrah (Applegate
Valley). A whiff of leather introduces this tight,
interesting, southern Oregon Syrah. Black fruits, iron
filings, and smooth tannins mark a wine made from
grapes that were carefully selected (just three rows of
vines) and given special consideration by winemaker
Herb Quady. —P.G.
abv: 14.1%
Price: $50
85
RoxyAnn 2009 Syrah (Rogue Valley). Cassis and black cherry aromas lead into similar, but
somewhat light fruit flavors. The mouthfeel is soft, but
the tannins a bit green and hard. It has not really become integrated. —P.G.
abv: 14.9%
Price: $30
83
Del Rio 2010 Syrah (Rogue Valley). Scents
of toast and coffee reflect some time in a percentage of new oak, but there is little else going on here.
Where’s the fruit? —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $35
RED BLENDS
88
Troon 2009 Old Vine Meritage (Applegate
Valley). This is a tannic blend of all five Bordeaux grapes, with an earthy mix of cherry, herb and
berry flavors. It’s elevated with pretty floral aromatics as
well, and a hint of anise in the finish. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $32
86
RoxyAnn 2008 Claret (Rogue Valley).
Tannic to the point of stemmy, this hard and
compact blend includes 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24%
Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc and 3% Malbec. Chewy
red fruits run into a tight, tough finish. —P.G.
abv: 14.6%
Price: $26
83
Del Rio 2010 Claret (Rogue Valley). Ripening the grapes seems to have been an issue
here in 2010, at least as far as this Claret is concerned.
This is a thin, green, tannic follow-up to the excellent
2009. —P.G.
abv: 13.1%
Price: $35
TEMPRANILLO
85
RoxyAnn 2009 Tempranillo (Rogue Valley). Light and slightly spicy, this spent 15
months in one-third new French and American oak
barrels, yet it comes across as a bit mild and one dimensional. —P.G.
abv: 14.4%
Price: $30
83
Del Rio 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon
(Rogue Valley). Hard and herbal, this has
sour, barely-ripe fruit and chalky tannins. —P.G.
abv: 13.5%
Price: $28
82
Del Rio 2010 Cabernet Franc (Rogue Valley). Thin, green and tannic. —P.G.
abv: 12.3%
Price: $28
WineMag.com | 69
SPIRITS
LUSCIOUS LIQUEURS & CORDIALS
L
iqueurs and cordials are a burgeoning—
and diverse—category. The one thing
they all have in common is a spirits base
and added sweetener.
But from there, the doors fling open
wide, encompassing fruity and floral, bitter
and herbal, rich and dessert-like, and many
variations within each of those categories.
Some of these, such as the fruity-herbal
digestif Killepitsch from Germany, have a
storied history dating back to the 1800s or
earlier. Others, such as Dancing Pines, a new
line of liqueurs from Colorado, are shiny-new
to the market.
Valuable as post-prandial sippers as well as
flavorful cocktail mixers, here are some picks
for best in class.
—K ara Newman
FRUIT & FLORAL
LIQUEURS
93
95
Briottet Crème de Mure (France; Anchor
Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA).
This light and nuanced blackberry liqueur is ideal for
adding color and flavor to cocktails. Garnet in hue, with
a berry-like aroma and flavor with a gentle clove note—
this finishes well balanced between tart and sweet.
abv: 18%
Price: $33
95
The Bitter Truth Apricot Liqueur (Germany; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New
York, NY). Among the best of the fruit liqueurs, this
delicious spirit is sippable straight up, and would be a
lovely accompaniment to shortbread or other desserts.
Rich scents of apples and stone fruits abound, with a
faint spicy aroma reminiscent of Cognac. Coats the palate with true apricot flavor and a hint of baking spices.
abv: 22%
Price: $34
94
Hum Botanical Spirit (USA; American
Still Life Collection, Ashland, VA). Developed by Chicago bartender Adam Seger, this rumbased liqueur has had a speedy ascent in the past couple
of years as a must-have for mixologists. The deep garnet
hue is derived from macerated hibiscus. Although it has
a warm, earthy floral-fruity base, the spice notes—ginger, cardamom, kaffir lime—get a little wild and take
center stage. It can stand alone, but this liqueur is at its
best mixed into cocktails.
abv: 35%
Price: $40
93
Briottet Crème de Cassis (France; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco,
CA). A deep, dark burgundy color, this black-currant
liqueur is rich and thick, with jam-like grape and raisin flavors.
abv: 20%
Price: $33
93
Dancing Pines Cherry Tart (USA; Dancing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). Made
with tart cherries and no artificial flavorings or colorings, this ruddy spirit blends tart and sweet cherry and
cranberry flavors, and would be particularly outstanding
mixed with Champagne or gin. The only missed step is
that it’s not particularly aromatic—otherwise, this spirit
would have scored even higher.
abv: 25%
Price: $36
Gabriel Boudier-Dijon Crème de Fraises
(France; 21st Century Spirits, Commerce,
CA). Heads up to bartenders fond of using jam in cocktails: here’s a viable alternative. Made with wild strawberries and black currants, this spirit boasts a nice trueberry flavor that’s earthy and complex, with a faint cinnamon note on the finish. Almost Port-like, this berry
elixir would be outstanding paired with dark chocolate.
abv: 20%
Price: $25
93
Mathilde Poire (France; Deutsch Family
Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Balanced, light and delicate, this pale gold pear liqueur has
a fresh, crisp aroma, melding fruit and white flowers.
The fruit flavors are bolder on the palate, sweet but not
overly so. While light enough to sip straight, this is also
an appealing way to add fruity notes to cocktails made
with white rum or gin, or mix it with sparkling wine.
abv: 18%
Price: $28
93
Merlet Crème de Fraise des Bois (France;
MHW/Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY).
Dessert-like and syrupy, this berry liqueur should be
considered for pouring over ice cream or using it to
glaze berries for a tart. Of course, with its deep cherry
color and luscious strawberry-jam scent and bright flavor, it’s a pleasing spirit for sipping, too.
abv: 18%
Price: $25
93
Senior Curacao (Curacao; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). This
clear and bright orange liqueur features a perky candied-orange flavor and aroma, with brisk lemon peel on
the finish. Light, clean and appealing for a broad range
of cocktails.
Price: $26
abv: 31%
93
The Bitter Truth Violette Liqueur (Germany; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New
York, NY). The dense color is hypnotic: an impressively deep, dark, inky violet blue. Luckily, the flavor is less
intense. Instead, it’s sweet and light bodied, with a distinctive violet flavor that pulls back before it becomes
too perfumy or overpowering, with a delicate, clean finish. Overall, an excellent pick for floral-tinged cocktails,
like an aviation.
abv: 22%
Price: $48
92
Di Amore Gran Orange (Italy; Buffalo
Trace Distillery, Frankfort, KY). With its lus-
cious sugared-orange peel and spicy cinnamon and ginger notes, this lovely triple sec is a top pick for a sidecar—or any brandy cocktail, for that matter. The warm,
elegant, velvety feel belies its stance at 80 proof, on the
high end for a liqueur. Think of it as an iron fist within
that velvet glove. Best Buy.
Price: $19
abv: 40%
92
Echte Kroatzbeere Blackberry Liqueur
(Germany; Niche Import Co., Cedar
Knolls, NJ). Rich and lovely, this wild-blackberry
liqueur is reminiscent of fresh fruit warmed in the sun.
A concentrated, nearly opaque plum hue, the earthy,
ripe fruit flavor builds with repeated sips. Dash a bit
into a bubbly drink like a Kir, or serve as a dessert pairing with dark chocolate.
abv: 30%
Price: $35
92
Luxardo Limoncello (Italy; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). This
light limoncello has a candied-lemon aroma and flavor
and a zingy herbal note on the finish, similar to lemongrass. Light feel.
Price: $26
abv: 27%
91
Bottega Limoncino (Italy; Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY). For full review see page 10.
abv: 30%
Price: $24
91
Mathilde Orange XO (France; Deutsch
Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY).
Made with Cognac, this deep-gold orange liqueur is
higher proof than most, and comes across as a little hot.
Nevertheless, it’s delicious, with enticing honey, baking
spice and flower notes. A pleasing note of bitter orange
peel cuts the sweetness and refreshes the palate. This
would be particularly delightful mixed with brown spirits like brandy or whiskey.
abv: 40%
Price: $28
91
Merlet Crème de Peche (France; MHW/
Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). Bright
gold, with a rich, sticky ripe-peach aroma reminiscent
of the juice in a can of peaches. The flavors evoke Sauternes and honey, with a surprisingly light finish. Great
addition to sparkling wine for a Bellini-style drink, or
mix with white rum for a light, peachy cocktail.
abv: 18%
Price: $25
91
Sorel Liqueur (USA; Jack from Brooklyn,
Brooklyn, NY). For full review see page 10.
abv: 15%
Price: $28
90
Alberti Limoncello (Italy; Niche Import,
Cedar Knolls, NJ). Pale yellow and slightly
cloudy, this limoncello has a mild lemon-juice scent and
interestingly complex flavors. Although candy-sweet
at first, the liqueur evolves into an elongated, palatecleansing finish with lemongrass, white pepper and a
faint touch of anise. Would be lovely frozen into sorbet
or poured over crushed or shaved ice.
abv: 30%
Price: $20
90
Mathilde Framboise (France; Deutsch
A little of this concentrated, intensely fruity liqueur will
go a long way. Almost Port-like or jam-like, this syrupy
spirit has a deep garnet hue and a dark berry flavor,
making it a fine choice for sweetening a dessert or cocktail. Even with a significant amount of dilution, the fruit
continues to ring out.
abv: 18%
Price: $28
89
90
89
Mathilde Peche (France; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). This
pale-gold peach liqueur has a bright, sweet apple-peach
scent and flavor, finishing with a breeze of white blossom. Medium bodied, fresh and sippable, this would be
especially nice in a Bellini.
abv: 18%
Price: $28
90
Merlet Crème de Cassis (France; MHW/
Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). Save this
plush black-currant liqueur for adding bold flavor and
color to Kir royales—it’s almost too thick for straight-up
sipping. This deep plum-colored liquid is so viscous, it
clings to the sides of the glass, and feels alarmingly like
swallowing liquefied jam. Yet, it’s a remarkably true expression of fruit: earthy, round and balanced between
sweet and tart flavors. Add to gin for a bramble cocktail.
Price: $25
abv: 20%
Bellini Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Family
Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Despite
its thin, cloudy appearance and light citrus scent, this limoncello delivers surprisingly big lemon sweetness and
zingy notes of ginger and lemongrass.
abv: 30%
Price: $18
Merlet Crème de Framboise (France;
MHW/Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY).
This 100% natural liqueur has a fruity, earthy, deeply
concentrated dark-berry aroma and dark purple color
that’s nearly opaque. On the palate, the flavors evoke
blackberry compote and plums, and the spirit has a syrupy feel.
abv: 18% Price: $25
89
Midori (Mexico; Campari America, San
Francisco, CA). You may be surprised to
learn this liqueur is made in Mexico—not Japan. Still,
most will recognize that textured bottle with the bright
neon-green liquid inside. The fragrance is enticing,
scented with honeydew, white flowers and fresh green
apple. The flavor is sweet, big and melony, with a clean,
lightly floral finish. Light bodied, perky and bright, this
is meant for mixing.
abv: 20%
Price: $25
90
89
Luxardo Apricot (Italy; Anchor Distilling
Company, San Francisco, CA). Delectable
apricot flavor drizzled with sticky Sauternes and a dry
finish with baking spice and black tea make this a pleasing choice for a dessert pairing. Sadly, this dark amber
liqueur has barely any aroma to match the complex flavors, otherwise it would have scored higher.
abv: 30%
Price: $27
90
89
90
89
Merlet Triple Citrus (France; MHW/Bedford & Grove, Louisville, KY). Londonbased mixologist Tony Conigliaro collaborated on this
100%-natural orange liqueur, made from blood orange,
bitter orange and lemon. It’s certainly versatile, and
would complement a wide range of cocktails, from margaritas to sidecars. The clear spirit has a sweet orangepeel and lightly floral aroma, and a pure, clean orange
flavor, with just a bit of warmth on the finish to balance
out the sweetness.
abv: $40%
Price: $30
Luxardo Cherry Liqueur (Italy; Anchor
The deep, dark garnet hue hints at the earthy, subtle
cherry aroma and dark-berry flavors. This is warming
and medium bodied.
abv: 30%
Price: $26
90
Pages Parfait Amour Crème de Violette
(France; Anchor Distilling Company, San
Francisco, CA). The vivid violet color telegraphs the
aroma: floral and sweet, like violet pastilles, with a long
finish. The violet flavor is clear and true, although it
veers dangerously close to soapy.
abv: 25%
Price: $35
90
Santoni Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). This
vibrant yellow spirit has a strong lemon aroma and
a sweet, big citrus flavor that finishes with a pleasing,
cleansing pine note. It has a viscous feel.
abv: 30%
Price: $21
Pages Maurin (France; Anchor Distilling
Company, San Francisco, CA). Perhaps
you’ve seen the dark bottle with the green devil, and
wondered what on earth was inside. Answer: It’s a fortified sweet white wine spiked with cherries and quinine.
All this makes for an enticing apéritif with a cherry-red
hue. The flavors are subtle and earthy, alternating between sweet and tart, with a modest—some might say
angelic—alcohol level.
abv: 16%
Price: $39
PAMA Pomegranate Liqueur (USA; Heaven Hill Distilleries, Louisville, KY). Made
with pomegranate juice, vodka and Tequila, this lightbodied, translucent ruby liqueur is bracingly tart, and
reads closer to cranberry than pomegranate juice. This
will stand up well to dilution, making it a good pick for
cocktail mixing.
abv: 17%
Price: $25
TY KU Liqueur (USA; Entertainment Fusion Group, New York, NY). First, you’ll
notice the tall, pyramid-like bottle filled with pale jade
liquid. Second, when lifting the bottle, you’ll notice it
lights up. Third, pour and you’ll notice the fresh, soft
melon scent. The flavor reads tart at first, fading into a
juicy, sweet finish, with a touch of mouthwatering acidity. Light bodied and mixable, this is made with soju, as
well as yuzu, honeydew and green tea.
abv: 20%
Price: $25
88
Cedilla Liqueur (Brazil; Leblon USA,
Manhasset, NY). New to the U.S. market,
Cedilla is made by infusing cachaça with açai berries
grown in the Amazon region. Intense, plummy color
with a sweet grape-soda aroma and flavor balanced out
by a tartness on the finish and a faint cinnamon note.
It goes down easy straight up, but would also be good
mixed with sparkling wine or gin—or possibly cachaça.
abv: 25%
Price: $33
88
limoncello has a light yellow, cloudy appearance, and a
brisk lemon-lime flavor with a clean finish and a hint of
lemon zest.
Price: $19
abv: 25%
88
Hiram Walker Caramel Apple (USA; Pernod Ricard USA, Purchase, NY). Those
with a sweet tooth will enjoy this bright golden liqueur
as a sweetener for fall cocktails and hot drinks. Although
the aroma delivers a finely tuned apple and caramel
scent, caramel dominates the flavor, lingering and coating the palate. That said, the sweetness is well balanced.
abv: 15% Price: $10
88
Kinky Liqueur (USA; Crosby Lake Spirits
Company, Saint Paul, MN). Cloudy carnation pink, with a juicy, grapefruit-like aroma and citrus
flavor. Made with vodka, blood orange, mango and passion fruit. Although this appears to be made to mix, the
modest alcohol level suggests this is intended as a readyto-drink product. This has a distinctive curvy frosted
bottle.
abv: 17%
Price: $20
88
Mariposa Agave Nectar Liqueur (USA;
Heaven Hill Distilleries, Bardstown, KY).
New to the U.S. market, Mariposa (Spanish for butterfly) is made with agave nectar, Tequila and vodka. It
has a pale straw color and a honeyed agave scent with a
light, perfumed rose note. On the palate, it reads as very
sweet, like drinking thinned agave nectar with a splash
of Tequila and vanilla on the finish. With good mixing
potential, such as with lime and Tequila (or other spirits), Mariposa has the potential for creating fascinating
new margarita hybrids.
abv: 30%
Price: $25
88
Mathilde Cassis (France; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Dark
purple, nearly opaque, with a wine-like scent. Warm
and rich, this black currant spirit coats the tongue and
palate with big, grape-berry flavors. It’s best lightened
with bubbly, as in a Kir royale.
abv: 16%
Price: $28
88
Merlet Crème de Poire (France: MHW/
Bedford & Grove, Manhasset, NY). This
100%-natural pear liqueur has a light, ripe pear scent
and a sweet, syrupy flavor that evokes apple, pear and
tropical fruit.
abv: 18%
Price: $25
88
X-Rated Fusion Liqueur (Italy; Campari
America, San Francisco, CA). Dainty carnation pink, and smells like a grapefruit-flavored energy drink. The flavor is juicy and tart on the entry, but
finishes rather sweet, reminiscent of grapefruit-spiked
lemonade. Made with French vodka mixed with blood
orange, mango and passion fruit. Although this appears
to be made to mix, the modest alcohol level suggests this
is intended as a ready-to-drink product. Distinctive tall
frosted bottle.
abv: 17%
Price: $25
87
Intrigue Pink (France; Arcadia Imports,
Plainville, CT). Bright pale-pink colored, with
a strong grapefruit scent. The flavor is sweet, slightly
ersatz, with touches of grapefruit and peach. Made with
Cristiani Limoncello (Italy; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). This
WineMag.com | 71
French vodka, peach and passion fruit, and produced by
Cognac maker Louis Royer.
abv: 25%
Price: $22
scent and a sweet, artificial flavor similar to an energy
drink.
abv: 17%
Price: $22
alcoholic twang, where a touch of sweetness would have
been welcome to temper the bite. Drink well chilled.
abv: 35%
Price: $25
87
83
OTHER LIQUEURS
WHISKEY-BASED
LIQUEURS
Dancing Pines Chai (USA; Dancing Pines
Distillery, Loveland, CO). Tea is one of the
hottest flavors in the mixology world now, and bartenders are going to fall in love with this complex, chaiinspired liqueur. Black-tea flavors meld with a vivid,
spicy palette of orange peel, cinnamon and clove, with
just a hint of sweetness and a mildly spicy finish.
abv: 30%
Price: $36
Luxardo Triplum (Italy; Anchor Distilling
Company, San Francisco, CA). This orange
liqueur from Italy has a fleeting citrus scent but a big,
sweet flavor, with a pronounced orange-peel note and a
pulse of alcohol on the finish.
abv: 39%
Price: $28
86
Gabriel Boudier-Dijon Crème de Framboises (France; 21st Century Spirits,
Commerce, CA). Made with “a harmonious blend of
Scottish and Burgundy raspberries,” this liqueur sports
a deep, vivid dark-cherry hue and a mouth-filling cherry-berry preserves flavor. However, the spirit finishes
with a subdued, earthy note, and has a lighter feel than
expected.
abv: 20%
Price: $25
86
Given Liqueur (France; Given Imports,
New York, NY). Made with agave Tequila and
lime juice, this bright buttercup-yellow liqueur has a
sweet-tart flavor and a lingering lime note. Overall it is
light and crisp, though it would benefit from a bolder
burst of flavor. It appears to be meant to drink as is, but
it would make a refreshing apéritif in a tall glass with
soda and a fresh wedge of lime.
abv: 17%
Price: $35
85
Gabriel Boudier Dijon Creme de Cassis
(France; 21st Century Spirits, Commerce,
CA). One of the earthier black currant liqueurs, melding dark, plush berry with an oddly vegetal, spicy note
with hints of oregano and bell pepper. Opaque plum
color.
abv: 20%
Price: $25
85
Paradiso Lemon Cream (Italy; Deutsch
Creamy yellow appearance and mild lemon scent. In
many ways, it’s reminiscent of lemon curd: thick and
creamy, with a sweet flavor. Light lemony finish, with an
herbal note. Made in Tuscany.
abv: 17%
Price: $21
85
Siegburg Apfel (Germany; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White Plains, NY). Look
for a light gold color and a ripe apple scent with a hint
of resin. On the palate, this liqueur is sweet, with a honeyed apple essence. Light bodied.
abv: 21%
Price: $17/1 L
85
The Bitter Truth SloeBerry Blue Gin (Germany; Domaine Select Wine Estates,
New York, NY). A deep burgundy hue, with a fruity
and floral scent. On the palate, the gin is tart, with a
faint rose note and a dry, tannic feel.
abv: 28%
Price: $48
84
Intrigue Liqueur (France; Arcadia Imports, Plainville, CT). Made with French
vodka, Cognac and passion fruit, the most fun part of
this spirit is the artificial color: its lurid lime-green color
sure attracts attention! Look for a mild kiwi and lime
Schonauer Apfel Apple Liqueur (Ger
many; Niche Import Co., Cedar Knolls,
NJ). Light gold in color with a juicy, true apple flavor.
This apple schnapps would have scored higher were it
not for the sticky, plastic-like aroma.
abv: 21%
Price: $20
92
Southern Comfort (USA; Southern Comfort Company, Louisville, KY). This classic
whiskey-based liqueur has a familiar mix of oak, caramel and vanilla flavors. Since it’s only moderately sweet
(despite the candy-like aroma) and has a fair amount of
alcohol, it’s a versatile mixer with a wide range of soft
drinks and juices.
Price: $17
abv: 35%
91
Irish Mist (Ireland; Campari America, San
Francisco, CA). This dark amber liqueur
is made with Irish whiskey, honey and spices. Expect
warm honey and vanilla flavors, with a perky cinnamon note that winds into the finish. Creamy honey-like
mouthfeel and syrupy consistency; excellent for mixing.
abv: 35%
Price: $28
91
Wild Turkey American Honey (USA; Campari America, Lawrenceburg, KY). From
the makers of Wild Turkey Bourbon, this lovely liqueur
is honey-sweet at first sip, but it braces up with a whisper of alcohol. As the sweetness fades away, it leaves
behind pretty honeysuckle and vanilla notes on the long
finish. Enjoy this on the rocks or mixed.
abv: 35.5%
Price: $22
90
Southern Comfort Lime (USA; Southern
Comfort Company, Louisville, KY). This
amber liqueur features a fresh lime scent with a hint
of vanilla and acidic lime flavor on the palate, finishing
bright and clean. The tart, mouthwatering citrus flavor
is clearly meant for mixing with cola or ginger ale.
Price: $17
abv: 27.5%
88
Southern Comfort Bold Black Cherry
(USA; Southern Comfort Company,
Louisville, KY). A new entry to the SoCo line, explicitly intended for mixing with cola. Despite the pronounced candy-like aroma—like a cherry Charms lollipop—the flavor is not as sweet or cherry-like as expected. Instead, it’s a burst of oak and alcohol on the palate,
which moderates when mixed.
abv: 35%
Price: $17
87
Mickey Finn Irish Apple Flavored Whiskey (The Netherlands; BABCO Imports,
Manhasset, NY). New to U.S. markets in spring/summer 2012, this light-gold liqueur is made with a blend
of Irish and American whiskies mixed with natural apple
flavor. Look for a bright green-apple scent, fresh, juicy
and tart, which is echoed on the palate, reading almost
like tart apple juice at first. The liqueur finishes with an
96
94
Patrón XO Café Dark Cocoa (Mexico; The
Patrón Spirits Company, Las Vegas, NV).
abv: 30%
Price: $25
93
Chocolat Royal Liqueur by Marie Brizard
(France; Imperial Brands, Palm Beach
Gardens, FL). From Bordeaux, this velvety-smooth
chocolate liqueur is new to U.S. markets. It resembles
dark-chocolate syrup in appearance, aroma, flavor and
mouthfeel, and would be lovely in espresso-based cocktails or poured over ice cream.
Price: $28
abv: 17% 93
Luxardo Amaretto (Italy; Anchor Distilling
Company, San Francisco, CA). Look for a
bold marzipan aroma and almond flavor with a bakingspice finish and velvety feel. Use for dessert cocktails.
abv: 28%
Price: $28
92
D’Aristi Xtabentun (Mexico; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). This
exotic liqueur comes with a spicy story: supposedly it’s
named for Xtabay—a disgraced Mayan prostitute—and
the aromatic flowers that eventually sprung from her
grave, named xtabentun. The thick, pale yellow liqueur
is made with honey, anisette and rum, and has a warm,
funky honey-and-spice profile. It’s currently a darling
among the mixology set, who are using it to flavor Tequila and other spirits.
abv: 30%
Price: $26
92
Fennellys Irish Cream (Ireland; Deutsch
This light brown Irish-whiskey-based liqueur is reminiscent of chocolate spiked with a hint of baking spice. It
boasts a rich and creamy feel, with enticing chocolaty
aromatics.
abv: 17%
Price: $14
91
Frangelico (Italy; Campari America, San
Francisco, CA). Part of the classic liqueur
canon, this rich, sweet hazelnut cordial is instantly
recognizable. Whether mixed into coffee, whiskey or
creamy cocktails, this light-gold liqueur is as addictively
sippable as ever.
abv: 20%
Price: $20
91
The Old Liquor Store Honey Liqueur
(Spain; Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits,
White Plains, NY). Smooth and sippable, this bright
gold liqueur has a sweet honey scent, with notes of
vanilla and tea. Look for a very sweet, creamy honey feel
and flavor, enriched by a touch of hazelnut.
abv: 24%
Price: $22
warns), espresso-like aroma, and sweetness on the palate lead into a light coffee flavor.
abv: 30%
Price: $36
91
89
Tuaca (USA; Brown-Forman, Louisville,
KY). This vanilla-citrus liqueur is a good, complex sweetener for cocktails made with brandy, whiskey
or other dark spirits. The amber liquid has a warm caramel aroma. On the palate, orange is the dominant flavor, warmed up with a bit of vanilla on the boozy finish.
When the temperature sensitive bottle is chilled, the
color of the design on the bottle changes from white
to bright blue.
abv: 35%
Price: $22
90
Dancing Pines Black Walnut (USA; Dancing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). Complex and piquant, this flavored Bourbon liqueur reads
like an amaro. The dark brown liquid has a spicy, herbaceous aroma and flavor, with sophisticated black pepper, ginger and cinnamon accents, and a touch of nutty
espresso richness. It doesn’t really resemble walnut, but
that doesn’t really matter. Whatever it is, it’s delectable.
Price: $36
abv: 38%
90
Dancing Pines Brûlée Caramel (USA;
Dancing Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO).
A very pure expression of caramel, this spirit has a dark
honey color, mild caramel aroma, and creamy, stickytoffee flavor. It coats the palate like drinking liquid
milky caramel. Mix with Bourbon and other whiskies.
It’s made with caramelized sugar cane, no other added
flavorings.
abv: 25%
Price: $36
90
Senior Curacao Chocolate (Curacao;
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White
Plains, NY). Those who hoard chocolate oranges at
Christmas time will love this liqueur, which melds orange-peel and fudge flavors in a very grown-up way.
With a translucent reddish-brown hue, bright chocolate-almond aroma and brandy-like finish, this is an excellent mixer that can add an elusive chocolate edge to
a cocktail or pair with dessert.
abv: 25%
Price: $34
89
Barenjager Honey Liqueur (Germany;
Sidney Frank Importing, New Rochelle,
NY). Though an old-school German recipe, this thick
honey-herbal liqueur is finding increasing use in the
mixology world lately, often mixed with tea and dark
spirits like Bourbon or brandy. True honey flavor,
creamy feel. Cute beehive motif to the bottle and bottle
cap.
abv: 35%
Price: $30
89
Bottega Gianduia (Italy; Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY). For full review see page 10.
abv: 17%
Price: $25
89
Dancing Pines Espresso (USA; Dancing
Pines Distillery, Loveland, CO). This smallbatch liqueur is like drinking iced coffee mixed with
lots of sugar. Cloudy nut-brown appearance (“Contains
real coffee beans. Separation occurs naturally,” the label
Pisa Liqueur (Italy; Vision Wine & Spirits,
Secaucus, NJ). For full review see page 10.
abv: 24%
Price: $25
88
Bottega Sambuca (Italy; Palm Bay International, Port Washington, NY). For full review see page 11.
abv: 40%
Price: $24
88
Kalani Coconut Liquor (Mexico; Anchor
This pale straw-colored liqueur features a sweet, light
coconut fragrance and bright, lingering coconut flavor.
Thick feel.
abv: 30%
Price: $26
88
Stone Barn Brandyworks Red Wing
Roast Coffee Liqueur (USA; Stone Barn
Brandyworks, Portland, OR). For those seeking a
true coffee experience in liqueur, here it is. From Portland, Oregon, one of the capitals of coffee, Stone Barn
Brandyworks has infused their Pinot Noir brandy with
Yemeni and El Salvadoran coffees, along with vanilla,
cinnamon and sugar. The end result is a fresh-brewed
coffee aroma and flavor with a bitter edge, light feel and
dark brown color. For a liqueur, a bit more sweetness
would have been welcome.
Price: $25
abv: 25%
87
Café Granita Coffee Liqueur (USA;
Deutsch Family Wine & Spirits, White
Plains, NY). Bring on the white Russians! This deep
brown, coffee-scented liqueur leans very sweet, and
practically begs to be mixed with cream.
abv: 21%
Price: $14
87
Poli Miele Honey Liqueur (Italy; Winebow,
New York, NY). A curiously old-fashioned
spirit, within an old-fashioned wine bottle with a tall,
skinny neck topped with a swing-line cap. The yellowtinged liqueur is botanical and citrusy up front, with
grappa-like heat fading into a creamy honey note.
abv: 35%
Price: $35
85
Noyau de Poissy (France; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). The
oldest liqueur in France, dating to 1683, this liqueur
features almonds and apricots macerated in Cognac.
Nearly clear and clocking in at 80 proof, the spirit reads
almost as almond extract, with its marshmallow fragrance and sweet, lightly almond and floral flavor with a
rush of heat on the finish. Consider using to add subtle
flavor to cakes and confections.
abv: 40%
Price: $47
HERBAL LIQUEURS
95
Killepitsch (Germany; Vision Wine &
Spirits, Secaucus, NJ). For full review see
page 10.
abv: 42%
Price: $25
94
Nardini Amaro (Italy; Winebow, New
York, NY). Mixologists will love this deep
brown amaro for adding complex, sophisticated flavors
to cocktails. Bold, warm dark-chocolate notes meld with
a minty, herbal, palate-cleansing finish, and a surprisingly but mellow sweetness tempers the forward bitter
notes. Lovely and light bodied.
abv: 31%
Price: $50/1 L
92
Luxardo Bitter (Italy; Anchor Distilling
Company, San Francisco, CA). The bright,
vivid orange-red hue and Campari-like bitter scent and
flavor make this a natural choice for Negronis, Americanos and the like.
abv: 25%
Price: $26
92
Schwartzhog Kräuter Liqueur (Germany;
The Other Wine & Spirits, Miami, FL). For
abv: 36.7%
Price: $15
91
Jägermeister (Germany; Sidney Frank
Importing, New Rochelle, NY). Despite its
overuse among college students as a get-drunk-quick
shooter to cascade down ice luges, this is excellent
digestif material for grown-ups too. This ruddy, herbal
spirit is dominated by licorice and clove flavors, with
a faint, bracingly bitter tinge in the medium-bodied
mouth and on the finish. The college crowd got one
thing right, though: Jäger is best icy cold.
abv: 35%
Price: $24
91
Luxardo Amaro Abano (Italy; Anchor
Some amaros are tongue-curlingly bitter, but that is not
the case with this one. Instead, bitter, sweet and herbal
flavors are in harmonious balance, entwined with lingering spice, espresso and sarsaparilla notes. Great for
apéritif and digestif cocktails seeking a bitter touch.
abv: 30%
Price: $26
91
The Bitter Truth E**X**R (France; Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York,
NY). Produced by vermouth-maker Dolin in France
for Germany’s Bitter Truth label, this nut-brown liqueur has a surprising bitter aroma and a mix of bitter
and berry-sweet on the tongue, finishing with a smattering of ginger, cinnamon and black pepper. Although this
would be ideal dashed into cocktails, it’s also enjoyable
splashed into ginger ale.
abv: 30%
Price: $34
90
Becherovka (Czech Republic; Pernod Ricard USA, Purchase, NY). This cheery buttercup-yellow spirit evolves from sweet to bitter in seconds flat. At first, it has a sweet, honey-like cast, then
ginger and other herbal notes develop and, finally, it finishes dry, with an amaro-like bitter note. Traditionally
consumed neat, Becherovka also stands up well to dilution (tonic, club soda) and makes a particularly refreshing apéritif chilled with a squeeze of lime.
abv: 38%
Price: $24
90
Helbing Kummel (Germany; Niche Import Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). Despite the
tall, square-shouldered green glass bottle, the spirit inside is clear and bright. Look for a light sweetness and
WineMag.com | 73
pronounced anise and caraway flavors. Induces cravings
for a slice of fresh rye bread. Best chilled.
abv: 35%
Price: $32/1 L
caution is advised for straight-up sipping: this green
giant weighs in at a whopping 110 proof.
abv: 55% Price: $58
90
86
The Old Liquor Store Green Tea Liqueur
White Plains, NY). No doubt, this is a tea liqueur.
The amber color evokes weak black tea. The aroma is
reminiscent of herbal tea with notes of chamomile and
mint. The flavor is similar to sweetened chai, thanks to
the allspice and cinnamon finish. It’s enough to warrant
serving this liqueur in China teacups.
abv: 24%
Price: $19
89
Goldwasser (Germany; Niche Import Co.,
Cedar Knolls, NJ). Made since the 1500s, the
trademark of this cinnamon-flavored schnapps is the
flakes of 22-karat gold suspended in the clear liquid.
The flavor is very sweet, with a candied Red-Hots flavor. It doesn’t even feel like 40 proof. No wonder it’s so
popular as a shooter: it goes down easy, leaving a warm
cinnamon glow down the gullet.
Price: $31
abv: 40%
89
Stroh Jagertee Liqueur (Austria; Niche
Import Co., Cedar Knolls, NJ). This muscular, somewhat medicinal amber liqueur is made from
overproof rum mixed with black tea, herbs and spices.
The warming orange-peel, ginger, vanilla, and allspice
flavors would work well as a digestif, or rounding out
a punch.
abv: 40%
Price: $33/1 L
89
The Bitter Truth Pimento Dram (Germany;
Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York,
NY). This ruddy liqueur has a pronounced clove and
allspice fragrance, and a sweet flavor with lots of peppy
baking spice on the finish. Drying, tannic feel. Use for
tiki drinks and other cocktails when spice is desired.
abv: 22%
Price: $34
89
The King’s Ginger (Holland; Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA).
“Specifically formulated by Berry Bros. in 1903 for King
Edward VII,” this golden elixir has a citrusy aroma and
a honey note that zings into a big gingery finish. A versatile cocktail mixer.
abv: 41%
Price: $40
88
AGWA de Bolivia (Amsterdam; BABCO
Imports, Manhasset, NY). Yes, this pale
neon-green liqueur is distilled from Bolivian coca
leaves. But sorry, thrill seekers, the “negative narcotic
compounds” are removed before the distillate is blended with 36 other herbs. The end result is a faint anise
and grassy scent, and light flavors of anise, ginger, kiwi
fruit and lychee, with a soft lemongrass and white-pepper spiciness. Consider subbing for green Chartreuse
in cocktails.
abv: 30%
Price: $32
87
Pages Verveine de Velay Green (France;
Anchor Distilling Company, San Francisco, CA). This intensely herbal, emerald-green liqueur
is made with a blend of 32 botanicals, but a strong whiff
of anise dominates the aroma and flavor. Although small
doses may add a fresh herbal complexity to cocktails,
Calisaya (USA; Elixir, Eugene, OR). This
sunny gold spirit is honey-sweet, with a finish
reminiscent of Indian spices. Consider serving as an exotic touch alongside a honeyed dessert like baklava.
abv: 35%
Price: $46
84
The Old Liquor Store Ginger Liqueur
White Plains, NY). This sweet amber liqueur has an
aroma and flavor reminiscent of a light root beer, although it also has an offputting plastic-like undertone.
Flavor fades quickly.
abv: 24%
Price: $24
BEER
THE GOLD (OR BLONDE) STANDARD
O
ctober is one of those funny months,
when you can still remember what summer was like but suggestions of what’s
to come in the days ahead keep you grounded
in fall reality. The leaves start to change in the
Northeast, and people try to enjoy the remaining warm days before long-sleeved shirts and
sweaters come out of hibernation. It’s the perfect time to enjoy a blonde ale.
Blonde ales are an interesting category, with
a bit of variation between international and domestic selections. They are all typically crisp
and dry, with a low to medium noble-hop presence, although American offerings generally
trend toward the medium side of the spectrum
more than traditional Belgian examples. While
they are clean and refreshing, there tends to be
a perception of fruity esters and sweet malt flavors to give them some depth and complexity.
Alcohol can also vary depending on the
producer and their country of origin. Overall,
blonde ales can be anywhere in the 4–8% abv
range, with the traditional Belgian-style brews
boasting higher abvs than most American
counterparts. On the lower-alcohol end of the
spectrum, blonde ales can even exhibit lagerlike characteristics thanks to their approachable nature and balanced, easy-drinking palate.
If blondes aren’t your thing, we have some
other golden-brew reviews for you to enjoy:
American wheat beers and a stellar weizenbock
from Weihenstephan, widely regarded as the
world’s oldest brewery.
Prost!
—Lauren Buzzeo
BLONDE ALES
grain unfold on the nose and mouth. It’s smooth and
approachable, with a medium-weight body and moderate carbonation. The finish is clean, with a slightly bitter
edge and a light dusting of sweet spice.
abv: 6.2%
Price: $8/12 oz 6 pack
91
Brewery Bockor Omer Traditional Blond
Ale (Belgian-style Blonde Ale; Brewery
Bockor, Belgium). Pours a hazy golden color with
a white head that boasts superb longevity and leaves
beautiful lacing behind. The aromas are fresh and
clean, with some attractive herbal accents that spice up
the citrus, banana, yellow apple and sourdough bread
core. The mouthfeel is dry yet full, with the brisk carbonation assisting in balancing out the sweet fruit flavors and weight of the high alcohol. Hints of clove and
white pepper unfold on the slightly bitter finish. Artisanal Imports.
abv: 8%
Price: $10/750 ml
89
Blue Moon Vintage Blonde Ale Reserve
Collection 2011 (American Blonde Ale;
Blue Moon Brewing Company, CO). For full review see page 11.
abv: 8.5%
Price: $10/750 ml
88
Widmer Brothers Citra Blonde Summer
Brew (American Blonde Ale; Widmer
Brothers Brewing Company, OR). A clear gold
color in the glass with an attractive and fruit-forward
bouquet, this summer brew is an easy-drinking selection that’s sure to satisfy. Ripe tropical-fruit aromas mingle with notes of yeasty spice, sweet grass and orange
rind. The hop flavors keep things interesting on the palate, imparting a pleasant bitterness to the citrus, mango
and pineapple flavors, and which carries through to the
clean and refreshing finish.
abv: 4.3%
86
Metolius River Ales Yellow Sally Blonde
Ale (American Blonde Ale; World Brews,
NY). Light yellow in color, with a small head that dissipates quickly. Delicate notes of citrus, green banana and
lection that’s quite sessionable. Light aromas and flavors
of fresh lemon supremes, banana, yeast and sweet spice
unfold on the nose and mouth. The mouthfeel boasts
a somewhat creamy texture that’s lifted by vibrant and
cleansing carbonation. Clean and brief on the finish,
this isn’t the most complex brew but it’s balanced and
refreshing.
abv: 5.5%
86
Four in Hand River Card Wheat Beer
(American Pale Wheat Ale; World Brews,
NY). Here’s an approachable and enjoyable session beer
that’s easy to like. It might not be the most nuanced or
complicated sip, but it’s balanced and refreshing with
bright notes of lemon, fresh wheat, dried grass and a
touch of peppery spice. Medium bodied, with good carbonation and a slightly bitter and spicy finish. Best Buy.
abv: 4.5%
85
Hopper Whitman Summer Brew Wheat
Ale (American Pale Wheat Ale; World
Brews, NY). Brisk and refreshing, this summer ale is
uncomplicated and to the point, with clean aromas and
flavors of lemon slices, plantain, green melon and raw
wheat. Medium bodied, with assertive carbonation and
a short but slightly sweet close.
abv: 5.1%
OTHER ALES
94
Weihenstephaner Vitus Weizenbock
(Weizenbock; Brauerei Weihenstephan,
Germany). Vitus, made from a resurrected recipe that
is now being brewed year round, is a full-bodied and intensely flavored weizenbock that offers layer upon layer of aromas and flavors. A cloudy golden color in the
glass, it starts off with an incredible head that lingers
and leaves gorgeous lacing behind with each sip. Scents
of banana, green tropical fruit, lemon and clove fill the
bouquet and continue on to the palate alongside additional flavors of sweet spice, vanilla bean, bread dough
and pear flesh. Balanced and harmonious, with a long
and spicy finish. Total Beverage Solution.
abv: 7.7%
Price: $4/500 ml
87
Karl Strauss Windansea Wheat (Hefeweizen; Karl Strauss Brewing Company,
CA). Easy-pleasing and accessible, this is a good session
selection that goes down smooth and would pair easily
with most foods. Typical wheat beer aromas of clove,
pepper, banana and bready yeast appear on the nose,
but only with medium intensity. Lemon and wheat flavors dominate the medium-weight mouth. The crisp
carbonation and slightly creamy mouthfeel work together in harmony, resulting in a clean and refreshing
finish.
abv: 5.1%
87
R.J. King Wingwalker Belgian White (Witbier; R.J. King Wingwalker Brewing Company, NY). This is a straightforward yet enjoyable seWineMag.com | 75

Companhia das Quintas 2009 Quinta de

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