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pearls from t he log
LEFT: Island coffee house, TOP Termite
nest in Mangrove bushes
Cruising the
North Channel,
Lake Huron, Ontario,
Summer 2013
Julia Bay to Chikanishing in a 16ft Dinghy
Sean Grant
Any day-sailor will probably
know, the title of this account
is an homage to the late Frank
Dye—an inspirational and some
would say mad sailor who took his
16ft Wayfarer “Wanderer” from
Northern Scotland to Iceland (not to
mention many other destinations).
About a year ago, I read his book
that documented this journey and
began to think about similar (yet, less
12 risky) adventures that I could have.
My first idea was to sail around
Manitoulin Island. With its rugged
and often uninhabited shoreline, it
seemed like a great place for cruising
and camping. As I looked further,
I realized that the south shore was
long and exposed to large swells that
could build quickly, and to strong
and unpredictable westerly winds
and storms. The second option was
to stay in the North Channel where
the swell was diminished by the
numerous islands... or so I thought.
Having decided on the second
option, it was time to find a friend
crazy enough to join me. When I
thought about the people I’ve had
crew on my boat (Zissou), only
one was confident and comfortable
enough to also take the helm,
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Kevin Little. Kevin is also a fisheries
biologist and spends most of his
time in the forest and on lakes, so
his knowledge of nature and boats
would come in very handy.
After many months of collecting
important gear and knowledge of
the area, we packed our bags on
July 31st and headed to our friend’s
camp on Julia Bay. That evening the
forecast was for 10-15 knot winds
from the south with 40 knot gusts
in thunderstorms. As we sat on the
beach watching Zissou bob up and
down, we noticed in the distance
one of these thunderstorms building.
Without warning, the wind changed
to north and started gusting at the
40 knots that were called for. The
thunderstorm swept in so fast and
without warning that both Kevin
Say you saw it in GAM
and I thought the trip was over
before it had began. Zissou was in
just over a metre of water, heaving
violently, with waves building
quickly to one metre. The sheets of
rain pelted her and close-by thunder
rattled her rigging.
Day 1: Julia Bay –
Benjamin Islands (40km)
We were overjoyed to find that
Zissou had not only survived the
intense thunderstorm, but was fairly
dry inside. The boom-tent had been
well worth the money and proved
itself many times during the voyage.
With a large northerly swell
hammering the beach, we packed the
bow and stern stowage full of watertight gear. Sea sickness and nerves
set in as I realized that for the next
Say you saw it in GAM Sean (left) and Kevin crossing near Heywood Island
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pearls from t he log
Blake Island (Little Current Anchorage), Awaiting the first signs of the open bridge
five days there was continual risk of
another large and dangerous storm.
The wind was forecast at SW 10
backing to W 15 knots in the
afternoon. We set sail at 10:45
expecting to make a fast and long
close-hauled leg up the 6km shore
of Julia Bay, but quickly discovered
that there was almost no wind. We
finally settled for the help of the
propane motor for a kilometer until
we found wind.
Out of Julia Bay the swell was light,
and wind was about 10 knots. Our
average speed was about 12km/h.
We predicted a 4-5 hour sail to
The Benjamin Islands, about 40km
north-east of Julia Bay. To get there,
we had to cross the North Channel.
Our two options were:
1.) Stick to the south shore and
use Clapperton Island as cover from
building westerly swell and wind, or;
2.) Steer a bee-line between
Stisted Island and Innes Island with
the risk of being caught in a sudden
building wind and swell.
We checked the weather one last
time and headed out into the middle
of the North Channel. About halfway across, the wind built to 15
knots and the swell rose to 1 metre.
Luckily, we were traveling with the
wind on a broad-reach and surfing
14 the waves. This was the fastest and
most heart-pounding sailing I’ve ever
encountered. As we descended one
large swell, we reached a speed of
16.3 km/h and averaged a speed of
14km/h.
Travelling this fast, we were quick
to reach our first anchorage on South
Benjamin Island. We navigated
Zissou past the half-dozen 40 foot
yachts—with their owners astonished
to see such a small, open vessel on
rough waters—into a safe and quiet
cove. We unpacked, swam and set up
our tent on land. In the evening, we
hiked to the peak of the island and
watched as 20 knot winds picked up
the water and lashed the wind-swept
pines. We were glad to be on land.
Day 2: Benjamin Islands –
Little Current (30km)
Last evening, a “Strong Wind
Warning” had been forecast with
winds building to 20 knots by the
evening. Having seen what 15 knots
looked like, we were up and packing
at sunrise. With a shot of rum in
the morning coffee, our senses were
primed to venture back out into the
eerily calm waters.
As we rounded Croker Island, we
were greeted by a skipper sailing
an unusual looking boat that we
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later identified as a Cape Cod Cat.
The CCC is only a foot longer than
Zissou, but has a decent sized cabin
and is gaff rigged. Kevin fell in love
with this boat and talked about it the
rest of the trip.
By 10:00am the winds had died
and we were motoring. Our 2.5hp
propane engine was locked into place
and we relaxed and steered by tiller.
The overcast skies had impeded
our battery solar charging and our
GPS was now useless. Guided by
charts, we navigated to Bedford
Island, where we started to tuck
in. Suddenly, without warning,
torrential rains soaked us to the
core. With thunder and lightening
approaching, we dropped sail, and
motored to shore to wait out the
storm.
The channel between Bedford
Island and East Rous Island is narrow
and shallow. Kevin waded the boat
(centreboard and rudder up) through
a minefield of boulders and sandy
shoals. Leaving the channel, we
were soon greeted by the RCMP
boat and two confused looking
Mounties. “Just checking to see
how you weathered the storm,”
they said. Afterward I remarked to
Kevin, they had probably ruled out
checking for impaired boating or
Say you saw it in GAM
lack of safety equipment when they
saw the vulnerability of the boat... A
person would have to be mad to sail a
16ft dinghy either soused or without
proper safety equipment.
By about 3:00pm we found a
calm cove just north of Blake
Island and went snorkelling. Soon
we discovered that the island was
covered in poison ivy, but we knew
the risks and took the necessary
precautions. In the evening, we
watched Zissou float gently in a 50ft
triangle of calm water on the leeward
side of the island, protected from the
20 knot winds and swell barreling
west down the North Channel. It’s
remarkable how Zissou is able to fit
into small, shallow places that could
never afford shelter to larger boats.
That evening, thunderstorms built
on the mainland and we watched, in
sunshine, as Manitoulin Island was
pummelled by heavy weather until
sunset.
Day 3: Little Current –
Snug Cove (30km)
As we sail into Little Current, I
am reminded of the numerous day
trips I’ve made with my friend Rick
Cooper. This is a stretch of water
that I am familiar with, but have
never approached from this direction.
I quickly start to identify islands and
locations that I’ve spent afternoons
sailing around, but never thought
I’d be in the position to sail myself.
Zissou has taken us half way, and I’m
grateful for her sturdy Ian Proctor
design, quick speed, and solid
cruising abilities.
The Little Current swing bridge
opens for 10 minutes on the hour.
Our plan was to catch the 9:00am
opening, but we depart late and sail
into Little Current around 9:30.
I look for Rick’s vehicle, possibly
parked at the Spider Bay Marina,
but don’t see any sign of him. Large
powerboats roar up and down the
Say you saw it in GAM channel that marks the entrance
of Little Current. Most of their
operators are sitting at the height
of our mast and make apologetic
gestures as they pass.
While docked at the public
boardwalk, waiting for the bridge to
open, Zissou is once again dwarfed
by the great power and sailboats. One
passerby stops and inquires, “How do
you get onboard?” The 8 foot walls
that line the harbour were not made
for boats like Zissou. From shore,
you can make out a mast and Kevin’s
head—if he is standing on the thwart.
Although the town is called Little
Current, the current feels awfully
strong in a 16 ft. dinghy. With the
engine on full, we make it through
the torrent and into Georgian
Bay. Our plan is to make harbour
at Heywood Island, but Kevin is
looking forward to getting away
from limestone (which makes good
habitat for poison ivy) and into the
red granite around Killarney. We’re
disappointed to learn Heywood
Island is limestone and that the
recommended anchorage is full of
large powerboats. No fears, with
a wind NW at 10-15 knots we are
traveling quickly (averaging 10km/h)
and head for the Lansdowne Channel
on a broad reach.
As we enter the channel, a large
sailboat under motor passes us
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For more information visit www.syclub.com
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16 port side and the skipper gives us
the thumbs-up and yells, “Lookin’
good guys!” We’re surfing the swell
steadily and making speeds upwards
of 14km/h. We count the seconds
while surfing and determine that
10-15 second intervals are common.
Once in a while the nose dips into
the end of the next wave, then
emerges triumphantly as a surge picks
up the stern and pushes her over the
crest.
We make it into Snug Cove by
14:00 and head straight to the most
northerly point. As we enter the
cove, a sailor waves and says, “Cool!
Is that a Wayfarer?”, and gives us
the thumbs up. The wind is picking
up and the forecast is for N 20 by
midnight —the wind warning is still
in effect. We hike a trail that leads to
open water, and we watch the swell
crash against the rocky shore. There,
Kevin notes the limestone to granite
transition and we decide to find a
near-by campsite.
Day 4: Snug Cove –
Chikanishing Trail (20km)
Early this morning the winds howl
through the forest. The temperature
has dropped to below 10º C and a
small opening in my sleeping bag has
allowed the wind to rush in, making
it feel like I am sleeping in front of an
air conditioner.
We take our time this morning.
We’ve made arrangements to meet
my partner Carrie and our dog
Henry (a 100lb Newfoundlander) in
Killarney for Herbert’s world famous
fish and chips. Then, if the winds
and waves are right, Kevin and I will
continue to the islands near Collin’s
Inlet, find a camp site and pick up
Carrie and Henry to join us for
overnight.
Traveling though Lansdowne
Channel is slower than normal, but
the La Cloche ridges are beautiful,
and we enjoy the spectacular terrain.
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Occasionally, a large powerboat roars
by at full throttle, leaving heaving
seas behind it. As we approach the
Killarney Channel, a float plane takes
off, nearly deafening us and soaring
only metres above our mast.
We meet Carrie and Henry in
Killarney at 12:30, eat our share of
fish and chips, and make a stop at the
LCBO for celebration supplies. The
winds and waves are favourable to
continue to Chikanishing. After an
hour, we part ways and Kevin and I
are off to find a suitable campsite.
Within an hour, winds are picking
up and we arrive at the shoalinfested entrance of Collins Inlet.
The recommended anchorage in
Thomas Bay is directly upwind from
our location, and shoals and exposed
rocks are within 50 ft of the boat at
all times. We decide to motor in, and
with the wind and rock so near, we
leave our main luffing.
We noisily cruise by a number of
anchored ships, most likely waking
the slumbering crew. When we
cast our anchor, it drags and I swear
loudly to express my frustration and
embarrassment. There’s nothing
special about this anchorage, and
considering our amateurish entrance,
we decide to find something else after
picking up Carrie and Henry.
As we head for the Chikanishing
River entrance, we run over a largeunmarked shoal and the centreboard
kicks up. Luckily, the shoal was
deep enough for the motor and boat.
Passing many kayaks and canoes, we
make our way up the river where
Carrie and Henry board.
By the time we are back in the open
water, the winds have picked up to
a full force 5. The swell is building
and the winds are now from the
south-west, right down the mouth of
Collins Inlet. Under motor it’s not a
problem. Kevin enjoys sitting on the
bow, legs dangling in the water as the
nose dips occasionally into a wave
Say you saw it in GAM
and he navigates us through the maze
of shoals and shallow rocks. Being a
well-behaved and trusting oceanic
dog, Henry knows to hunker down
in the bottom of the boat and enjoy
the ride. Carrie cautiously smiles
and I know we need to find a place
sooner rather than later.
We discover Pinch Island has a
suitable anchorage for a 16ft dinghy,
and suitable camping. Henry, in
his natural habitat, is very happy
and enjoys cooling off in the green
waters of Georgian Bay. As we enjoy
a refreshing swim, the steaks that
Carrie brought, the campfire, and
multiple tasty beverages, we share
our story from the past four days.
It’s the perfect ending to the first of
many sailing cruises that are sure to
come.
Note Sean’s cover shot this issue;
anchored off Pinch Island
Sean preparing shore lunch in
Snug Cove, Killarney.
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T: 905.871.GOCL (4625)
E: [email protected]
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FOR INFO, C&L FORUMS
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