Puneri Saree

Craft Documentation
2015
KNITWEAR DESIGN
SEMESTER IV
Aditi Jadhav
Disha Patil
Ketu Velani
Mamta Jadhav
Natasha Nag
Rasika Kapadnis
Tanaya Shende
Urusa Khan
• Pune is the ninth-most populous city in India and
the second largest in the state of Maharashtra after
the state capital city of Mumbai.
• It is situated 560 metres (1,837 feet) above sea
level on the Deccan plateau, on the right bank of
the Mutha river.
• The
name
Pune
is
derived
from Modi ‟Punyanagari’ (पुण्यनगरी) (City of Virtue).
By the 13th century, it had come to be known
as Punawadi (पन
ु वडी). The name 'Poona' was
changed to 'Pune' in 1977.
• Pune has a hot semi-arid climate bordering
with tropical wet and dry with average temperatures
ranging between 20 to 28 °C.
MAHARASHTRA
PUNE
INDIA
Rashtrakuta Dynasty
9th Century
British Rule
18th-19th Century
Maratha Rule
17th Century
Peshwa Rule
18thCentury
•Height above sea level: 560 m (1,840 ft)
•Location: On the western margin of the Deccan
plateau, on the leeward side of Sahyadri mountain
range.
•Tallest hill: Vetal Hill,800 m (2,600 ft) above sea level.
Just outside the city, the Sinhagad fort is located at
an altitude of 1300 m.
•Latitude:18° 32"North
•Longitude: 73° 51"East
•Rivers: Mula, Mutha, Pavana and Indrayani
• Pune is said to be the cultural capital of the state
of Maharashtra.
• It epitomises Marathi culture, which lays emphasis
on education, arts and crafts, music, and theatre.
• Pune has emerged as a centre of modern
architecture in India, with prize-winning buildings.
• Specialties include Misal Pav, Puran Poli (a
dessert bread), Pithla bhakri, Panipuri, Bhelpuri,
and Pav Bhaji.
• Mastani, a thick milkshake containing dried fruit,
is a speciality of the city.
• Another speciality is Bakarvadi, a crispy snack
item.
• Puneri saree is a traditional form of saree
which is a common traditonal feminine wear in
Pune.
• Puneri sarees are mostly woven, using cotton
warp on the body and cotton warp and zari for
border.
• In some cases instead of pure cotton, silk is
also used.
• A traditional Puneri saree is a 100% cotton
saree and a 100% handloom saree.
• It may have simple checks but is usually plain,
with a decadent border.
A handloom is a simple
machine used for weaving. In
a
wooden
vertical-shaft
looms, the heddles are fixed
in place in the shaft. The
warp threads pass alternately
through a heddle, and
through a space between the
heddles (the shed), so that
raising the shaft raises half
the threads (those passing
through the heddles), and
lowering the shaft lowers the
same threads—the threads
passing through the spaces
between the heddles remain
in place.
Hand loom
Power loom
Manual operating system
Operated by electric power
Shedding is done by pedal and
picking and beating is done by
manual
Shedding picking and beating is
done automatically
Less production
High production
Slow running speed
High running speed
Initial investment is low
Initial investment is high
Less number of design verity Can
be produced
More number of design verity is
possible
Check and stripe fabrics are
produced
Normally one color fabric is
produced.
The handloom map of Maharashtra is not very simple. Many
different types of handloom saree types exist along with others in
the different parts of the state. Most of the materials are also
overlapping and techniques are pretty similar too. The market
range of the different patterns, designs, colors, materials and
sari types is also overlapping.
The puneri sarees are one type of saris which consist of many
typical features of these handwoven saris. Few of these / as
follows:
•Lugda/ Jote- Extra warp patterned border cotton/ silk saris
•cotton with zari saris
•Patal- Extra warp patterned saris and drapes
• Mr. Yeldi is a weaver, and his
family has been producing
handloom sarees since 1963.
• Their two generations have been
practicing this art since 1963 and
had more than 200 handlooms,
but today they own less than 50
looms
• Mr. Yeldi supplies exclusive
handloom puneri
sarees to
stores such as Fab India, priced
at 550- 750 INR per piece and
around the year they produce a
total of 1000 pieces.
• They also have their exhibitions at
International
and
National
Government Exhibitions, Suraj
kund mela, International Trade
Fair and used to take part in the
Paramparik Exhibitions.
• Mr. Yeldi competes in the
International competitions where
he
designs
and
weaves
contemporary sarees.
• He has a registration and holds a
license for this practice.
• This particular saree is an
innovative design made by him.
The saree is a 100% cotton
Paithani. The Paithani uses pure
silk and gold, but this saree was
weaved in Paithani style using
cotton only. This is the only piece
available.
• Powerloom has taken over the sector. The the profit seems
insufficient and the demand for the handloom sarees have
decreased, since powerloom sarees proved to be cheaper.
• If a handloom saree takes 8-10 days a power loom can do
the same work in precisely a day or less.
• A handloom saree can cost between 500-2500 INR,
whereas a powerloom saree would only cost around 300600 INR.
• Since the income is not fixed and the demand is low, the
coming generations have moved into other fields such as
engineering and textiles and show less interest in the art of
handlooms.
• Due to excessive paper work, restrictions, low profit and
immense corruption they stopped taking help from
government schemes and started on their own capital.
•
Kunden Sarees is a popular brand in Pune for Poona Sarees
and Dress Materials, it is one of the oldest surviving names in
the manufacturing of this trade, started by the Kunden Family.
•
The company was started way back in Pune in 1930 by late
Shri Narsayya Sayyana Kunden, the father of Mr. Subhash
Kunden.
•
In 2001 Mr. Subhash Kunden started a factory Shri Chintamani
Silk Mills Pvt. Ltd. which is situated at Theur Village, Pune,
along with a marketing division in the name of S.N. Kunden
with an installation capacity of around 100 power looms.
•
Over the years, S N Kunden have been providing the best
quality “Poona Sarees and Dress Materials” by incorporating
contemporary borders & timely changes in styles and trends
relevant to market requirement.
• SMILE (Savitri marketing institution for
ladies empowerment), an umbrella for
women to come together and sell
homemade wares, is a marketing system
developed by Sfurti Mahila Mandal and the
urban community development department
of the Pune Municipal Corporation to help
under privileged women and physically or
mentally challenged.
• There are outlets at Vishrambaug Wada,
Shaniwar Wada, Lokmanya Nagar and the
newly opened one near Katraj Snake Park,
rake in substantial returns every day.
• The shops stock various products like
crocheted and handmade paper
articles, different kinds of wall-hangings,
baby sets and food products like papad
and pickles.
• The success of the stores has not only
made the women self-sufficient, but has
also shown them that the sky is the limit.
• To empower women, the neighbourhood
self-help groups were given authority
and responsibility to function on their
own.
products
•Name of the Attendant: Rohan Shah.
•Looms: They have puneri saree made from power
looms.
•Demand: They sell approx 1000 sarees per year.
•Other saree in demand: Pure silk.
•Future plan: They would continue to sell the
sarees ahead, because they don‟t want to lose
their customers for puneri saree.
•Name of the Attendant: Vishwas Pasanti.
•Looms: They supply both power loom and hand
loom puneri saree
•Demand: They experience a good demand for
puneri saree almost 7 to 8 sarees a day, but they
sell only puneri saree and no dress material of the
same fabric.
•Other saree in demand: Paithani.
•Future plan: They plan to sell the puneri saree
ahead.
During the market survey, we
found a woman wearing the
traditional Puneri Saree with a
Jijamata Border and Tok Padar.
•Name of the Attendant: Vinayak Sherna.
•Looms: Power looms supply puneri saree to
this shop
•Demand: The demand of puneri saree is very
low, they only sell 1 to 2 sarees a day.
•Other saree in demand: Brocade and paithani
sarees are very popular among the customers.
•Future plan: They plan to stop providing puneri
saree because the demand is so low.
•Name of the Attendant: Nagesh Jadhav
•Looms: The shop provide handloom puneri
saree.
•Demand: They sell almost 20 puneri handloom
sarees, handloom puneri saree are in demand
and customers specifically ask for them.
•Other saree in demand: Silk is in demand more.
•Future plan: They plan to sell puneri sarees in the
near future as well.
Later, we found a younger woman
wearing the traditional Puneri Saree
but in a contemporary way, in the
form of salwar kameez, which is
more convenient than a saree. This
ensemble had a Gomi Border with a
simple pallu.
•Name of the Attendant: Ganesh Chintan
•Looms: They sell both power loom as well as
handlooms but handloom puneri sarees are more in
demand.
•Demand: They manage to sell almost 7 to 8 puneri
sarees each day. The saree is bought mostly by the
age group between 30 to 40.
•Other saree in demand: Paithani saree
popular.
is more
•Future plan: The have plans to sell the puneri saree in
the future as well.
Name of the Attendant: Suraj Bhamre
Looms: They sell only power loom puneri
sarees.
Demand: The shop sells 5 to 6 puneri sarees a
day.
Other saree in demand: The other saree which
is in demand is the paithani saree.
Future plan: Valisha plans to sell the puneri
saree in the future as well because they don‟t
want to lose their customers of puneri saree.
•Design By: Aditi Jadhav
•Measurements:
•Price of Saree:
•Price of Stitching:
•Design By: Disha Patil
•Measurements: Size 8
•Price of Saree:
•Price of Stitching:
•Design By: Ketu Velani
•Measurements: Size 8
•Price of Saree:
•Price of Stitching:
•Design By: Mamta Jadhav
•Measurements: Size 12
•Price of Saree:
•Price of Stitching:
•Design By: Rasika Kapadnis
•Measurements: Size 8
•Price of Saree:
•Price of Stitching:
•Design By: Tanaya Shende
•Measurements: Size 12
•Price of Saree: 350 INR
•Price of Stitching: 800 INR
•Design By: Urusa Khan
•Measurements: Size 12
•Price of Saree:
•Price of Stitching:
This project helped us to realise that the Handloom
weavers represent a sector of inherited skills that
provide the springboard for future growth, and also
the imagination, craft skills and the usage that have
enriched the textile tradition of India for hundreds of
years. This Craft Intervention also helped to give the
weavers a new hope for their craft and its future.
Also, the interaction with the „SMILE‟ NGO women
gave us a memorable experience. We hope that the
product designs help the NGO. Also, we hope to
spread awareness about this craft to the younger
generation with the help of the ensembles that we
created.