title graduation project submitted in partial fulfillment of the

GRADUATION PROJECT
SUBMITTED IN
PARTIAL FULFILLMENT OF
THE GRADUATION REQUIREMENT OF
BACHELOR OF DESIGN
(TEXTILE DESIGN )
STUDENT: Bhawana Jain
FACULTY GUIDE: Ms. Richa sharma
SPONSOR: Pathi Saree Emporium1902
2015
FASHION & TEXTILES PROGRAMME
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY
BENGALURU
The evaluation jury recommends Bhawana Jain for satisfactory completion of Graduation
Project from National Institute of Fashion Technology,Bengaluru after evaluating her
project ‘and fulfilling the requirements set by the institute and the jury members.
Jury Members
Name
Company/Organization
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Remarks
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Center Coordinator - Fashion & Textiles
NIFT Bengaluru
Signature
This document is consolidated description of my project in Pathi emporium which
turned out like a small voyage of Indian textile and techniques . The journey
through the indian silk rout from Benarasi sarees , Jamevar sarees .kanchipuram silk
sarees South Indian Silk sarees .Pochampally(Andhra silk) ,Gadhwal sarees,Uppada
silk sare ,Kota doriya of rajasthan , patanpatola of gujrat Bomkai Silk ( Orissa silk)
,Garad Silk Sarees from Bengal ,Baluchari Sarees from Bengal ,Murshidabad Printed
Silk Sarees of Bengal and finally back to home with maheshwari and chanderi
sarees of madhyapradesh. Being a Textile Design student I have been exposed to
weaving printing and embroidery. It was a valuable experince of learning and
understanding. It also include massive research in each of the phases of
development the concept.
The project was about Indian silk saree. In Pathi Emporium there was a huge scope
of exploration and implimentation in areas of printing . So I preferred to work in
printing of sarees with various Inspirations from contemporary world
It was all about giving a slight contemporary twist to traditional sarees of the Pathi
Sadan Since 1902 they were doing purely traditional sarees .It was a heartfelt
attempt to make it stylish with the fragrance of traditions in it .
The Emporium sarees are made of pure silk. Mostly they use crape silk , pure silk
sarees. In woven's they often use dupion silk Now they also do lots of tussur silk in
printed sarees.
I am using this opportunity to express my gratitude to everyone who
supported me throughout the Project of. I am thankful for their
aspiring guidance, invaluably constructive criticism and friendly advice
during the project work. I am sincerely grateful to them for sharing
their truthful and illuminating views on a number of issues related to
the project.
I express my warm thanks to my college mentor Ms. Richa Sharma for
their support and valuable guidance.
I would also like to thank my industry mentor Mr. Nanjundeshwar
Pathi and Mr.Raghu and all the people who provided me with the
facilities being required and conductive conditions for my project.
Secondly i would also like to thank my parents and friends who helped
me a lot in finalizing this project within the limited time frame.
Sincerely
Bhawana Jain
Place: Bengaluru
Date:
I Bhawana Jain student of textile design department NIFT
Bengaluru hereby declare that this document is solely prepared by
me under the guidence of my mentor Ms. Richa sharma. For any
evidance providing it otherwise I will be responssible and this
project will stand null.
Sincerely
Bhawana Jain
Place: Bengaluru
Date:
Contents
The Organisation
More than 100 years ago, Pathi Adinaranaiah laid the foundation of
a wholesale pure silks and jewellery enterprises. His business
principals were four-fold and simple: high quality, innovation,
personalizedservice and customer satisfaction. His vision and principal
were carried on by his eldest son, the late Shri. Pathi
Radhakrishna and his wife, the late Smt. Pathi Vittalabai as they
established
Pathi
Saree
Sadan,
Pathi
Saree
Emporium, Pathi Prints and Trimm Exports Pvt. Ltd. Under the Pathi
R Enterprises.
Presently, Mr. Pathi R. Srinivasan heads the group along with his
brother Mr. Pathi R. Raghunath. Mr. Pathi R. Janardhan and Mr.
Pathi R. Sampathkumar, and his son Mr. Sanjay S. Pathi and
nephew
Mr.
Pathi
S.
Nanjundeshwar.
Their
annual
turnover exceeds 15 milion dollars collectively
1
2
Pathi sadan
A TRADITIONALLY MODERN SHOWROOM
A wholesale saree showroom that caters to the needs of both
the domestic and international markets. Pathi saree sadan has inhouse designing are facilities to keep up with changing customer
preference, From the purely classical to tastefully contemporary, Our
design are carefully conceived and faultlessly executed, Our range caters
to the preference of the South Indian clientele, as well as cosmopolitan
customers across the country and all over the world.
Pathi Saree Sadan in Bangalore, managed by the experienced team
of Pathi R. Srinivasan, Pathi R Raghunath, Pathi R Janardhan and Pathi S.
Nanjundeshwar,
3
4
A CONSTANTLY EVOLVING PRINTING EMBROIDERY
FINISHING PROCESS
WEAVING AND
What standard off as a 20,000 Sq. Meter unit for printing and finishing on
fabrics in the year 1992, has now increased in terms of handling by
including weaving, computerized embroidery, processing and dying. Today,
Pathi Prints service its customers with a quality conscious vertically
integrated production process. Which is probably why customers keep
coming back to us. Pathi Prints will strive to constantly provide an
unmatched quality in printing and weaving.
Pathi Prints caters to the international market in fabrics, furnishing and silk
sarees, these products are exported to over 35 countries across the globe
including Europe, USA, Canada, Australia, Singapore, Malaysia and the Gulf
countries.
Pathi prints managed by Pathi R Sampath Kumar and Sanjay Pathi has one
of the largest pure silk printing units in India, with the full range of
integrated facilities - weaving, dyeing, designing, printing and finishing located under one roof. We employ advanced Italian and Swiss technology.
Pathi Prints regularly participates in international fairs and always interact
with its customers. Pathi Prints caters to the international market in sarees,
fabrics and furnishings. These products are exported to over 35 countries
across the globe - including Europe, USA, Canada, Australia, Singapore,
Malaysia and Gulf countries.
5
6
As per GP guidelines two collection should be made by the students with all
the design process systematically .
As per the brief student will make design concept for printing of silk sarees.
The all over look should be traditional only but a little tint of contemporary
thoughts should be added in order to make it From the purely classical to
tastefully contemporary
Collection 1
Theme : Mughal Inspiration
Fabric: crape silk with Zari border
tussur silk(geecha)
Theme: geometrica
Fabric: crape silk with Zari border
tussur silk(geecha)
matka silk , kosa
Collection 2
Theme: Jaipur dreams
Fabric: crape silk with Zari border
tussur silk(geecha)
7
My research is based on The company, clients, market etc.
Primary research :
I went out and collect Examples includeing surveys,
interviews, observations.
Market survey : Chitpet , Balepet , nagrath pet , cubbonpet
area of bangaluru , which is hub of weavers and silk sarees .
Secondary research
In desk research I collected information from forecast
utilising internet access and also other research which
involves the summary, collation and/or synthesis of
existing research rather than primary.
8
a) Books
Pattern and Ornamentation
in the arts of india
Henry Wilson
Thams and hundson Ltd, 2011
b) Indian Textile
By John Gillow & Nicolas bamard
Thams and hundson Ltd, 2011
c) The Sari
By Mukulika Banerjee and Daniel Miller
d) THE SARI
By Linda Lynton
e) Traditional Indian Textiles
By John Gillow and Nicholas Bernard
9
The history of the sari links an ancient north Indian
terracotta of a woman wearing this simple
garment to the saris created by twentieth-century
Paris designers. The essential simplicity of the sari
- an untailored length of cloth measuring between
four and nine meters long by approximately one
meter wide is set against a wonderful variety of
fabrics, colors, patterns, and draping styles. There
are richly diverse regional traditions of color,
pattern, and weave, analyzed comprehensively
here through a six-fold division of the Indian
subcontinent: the West; the East; the North-East
and the Himalayas; the Eastern Deccan; the South;
and the Western Deccan.
10
The saree is one of the world’s oldest and perhaps the only
surviving unstitched garment from the past. Over the
millennia, it has not only become a sensuous, glamorous alltime-wear for women, but also the ‘canvas’ for weavers and
printers to create artistic weaves, prints and jewelled or
gold-silver
embellishments!
They say cotton and the art of weaving it into fabric came to
India from the Mesopotamian civilisation. The men and
women of the contemporary Indus Valley Civilisation were
therefore familiar with cotton fabrics and wore long pieces
of material which could best be described as loin cloths.
These lengths of fabric were worn in the kachcha style,
meaning that after draping it around the waist, the wearer
passed one end of the cloth or the centre pleat between
the legs and tucked it up behind to facilitate freer
movement of the lower body and the legs. Early history
records that this style of clothing was not only limited to
Mesopotamia or the Indus Valley but was common to
Egypt, Sumer, and Assyria. The relics of all these
civilisations, now available in seals and figurines, prove this
fact. Women of most of these civilisations, it seems from
available evidence, wore only such loin cloths, leaving the
upper part of the body bare, except in winter when animal
skins or woollen shawl-like garments were used for
protection
from
harsh
weather.
In the epics of India, which were written much after the
Indus Valley period, several assorted items of dress were
described. The kanchuki, mentioned in many of the legends
which form the narrative of the epics, was a piece of cloth
worn across the breasts by women. It was probably the
earliest form of the choli. Many women, featuring in the
classical literature generated by the epics, were described
as beautiful in clothes made from silks encrusted with
gold and gems.
When the Aryans came into the plains of the mighty north
Indian rivers, they brought with them the word vastra for
the first time. Though a Sanskrit word originally meaning a
garment or cloth, for them it was a piece of treated leather
made into wearable clothing. Their wardrobes also included
woollen clothing as they lived in colder climates. As they
moved southwards, they adopted the practice of wearing
cotton weaves, in the manner of the Indus Valley
inhabitants. In time, this style of wearing a length of cloth
around the waist, especially for women, and the cloth itself
came to be known as neevi. Therefore, it is quite likely that
the simple loin cloth worn by the women of the Indus Valley
civilisation was the early precursor of the manysplendoured saree of India.
11
This familiar Asian flower is
associated with spiritual reality
both Hindu
and
Buddhist
spirituality, who believe that
within each person is the spirit of
a sacred lotus. The lotus flower
symbol represent the awakening
to the spiritual reality of life.
12
13
Primitive illustration makes its way back
into summer print trends.
Simple tribal geometric patterns /
Limited color palettes, with black and
white remaining important / Collage of
different
patterns / Textural strokes and effects
14
Dissonance offers a dark and delicious whirlwind of
prints, as tribal tones and a decadent, discordant spirit
sweep through the season
15
16
17
The traditional wear of Indian women Sarees increases the beauty of a
woman, Its the most sensuous outfit which makes a woman attractive and
charming. The Indian woman of every age prefers to wear sarees in the
auspicious occasion of her life. Fashion keeps on changing but saree is only
the attire which never changes but only its fabrics, pattern and colors keep
on changing with time and trends. There are various traditional style of
Saree available in the Indian market but every women wants to add these
most beautiful sarees in their wardrobe.
Type of Sarees in India:
Banarasi Sarees: Banarasi sari is One of the most beautiful Indian saree made
in Banaras now known as Varanasi, the holy city of India. Saris from Banaras
are considered as one of the finest saris in India and specially known for
heavy work of gold and silver brocade or zari and embroidery. Banarasi
sarees are not only a traditional attire, but a symbol of pride,
happiness,union, and celebration for Indian women.
Silk Sarees: Silk sarees are one of the most attractive saree of India and much
popular among the Indian women.Its known as paat in eastern India,pattu in
southern India and Resham in Hindi. Silk sarees are well famous not only in
India even all around the world for its design,printed fine texture,vibrant
colors and Embroidered around. These beautiful saris are used during the
wedding or festival celebration in the most part of south India. Silk saris are
famous from Mysore silk sarees, Kanchipuram silk sarees and Bhagalpur silk
sarees also available in different variants like Embroidery Silks,Printed Silk,Cot
Silk,Raw Silk and Pure raw silk.
Chanderi Sarees: Chanderi Sari is one of the most favorite saree of Indian
women,made with mix of silk and cotton. Due to very light weight and easy
to carry, its become one of the most ideal and first choice of India woman.
Chanderi is a small town situated in Ashoknagar district of heartland of India
called Madhya Pradesh, It is also famous for its brocades and muslin. Famous
sarees from chanderi are Silk chanderi saree and Cotton chanderi silk sarees.
Tant Saree: The famous attire from the state West Bengal, Bengali Sarees are
vibrant in color and always easy to handle for every type of occasion. Tant
Saree is famous for its lightness,transparency and comfort and available in a
wide range of design, color and style in the Indian market. It also known as
evergreen saree because of it can be worn as a casual wear as well as a party
or festival wear. The comfortableness and eligibility of tant saree makes it
different from other Indian saris and its first choice of Bengali
18
Sambalpuri Sarees: Sambalpuri Sarees are ranked in some of
the most beautiful saris in India and its the pride of Orissa.The
pure hand loom sarees made from Taussor, Silk and soft
cotton, also known as Ikat and Sambalpuri saree locally named
as shadhi. Sambalpuri Sarees has a strip of un stitched fabric
from 4 to 9 meter in length, which help to wrapped over the
body in various style. It was first time produced in the
Sambalpur district of Indian state Orissa therefor called
sambalpuri sarees.
Georgette Sarees: Georgette Sarees is one of the
most affordable saree for Women and easily available
vast shades with ornamental work. Best feature of
Georgette Sarees are easy handling, washable and
can be worn in every style and lovely prints which
makes it very first choice of air hostess. It also offers a
wide range of patterns like Jaal Embroidered
Georgette,Designer Georgette Sarees and Pure
Georgette Sarees.
Kosa Sarees: Kosa Sarees is one of finest sari and gives a royal
look to a Indian woman. Kosa is type of silk found in trees like
sal and saja and available in different color,pattern and design.
The price of kosa saree depends on the purity of the silk and
handwork.Nauvari Sarees: Nauvari Saree is a traditional
Maharashtrian Saree, Its nine yard long traditional saree of
Marwari women. Maharashtrian nauvari Saree has a unique
way of wearing, It is worn without petticoat and in kaccha
style.
Net Sarees: The all time favorite net sarees are made
from different nets like soft and hard net,and the
most fascinated saree among all sarees. Due to its
glamorous look and comfort feel its become a hot
wear among the young girls as well as women. Its the
eye catching sarees which gives a modern look and
worth seeing.
Chiffon Sarees: Chiffon sari is the most elegant saree among
all other Indian sarees. The fabric Chiffon Sarees are most
popular because of its trendy look,unique quality and easily
available in numbers of colors with embroidery. Chiffon is
made from cotton,silk and synthetic fiber. Party Wear chiffon
fabric sarees in various colors, styles and trends makes it one
of the first choice of beautiful young Indian woman.
Bandhani Sarees: The traditional bandhej saree or
Bandhani Saree is a form of tie and dyed practice of
designing patterns on a saree. These are well famous
in Rajasthan and Gujarat states and available in in all
possible colors,variety and best price range. The pink
city Jaipur is famous for its Bandhej Sarees, Lehariya
Sarees and Garchola Sarees.
19
The saree is the quintessential Indian female garment
Nothing identifies a woman as being Indian so strongly as the sari , although
women also wear saris in many other countries like Bangladesh, Nepal and Sri
Lanka.
Saree comes in all shapes and sizes from texured woven's to seer luxurious silks .
India's saree evolved out of complex physical , historical and cultural environment
that differs from region to region and community to community. In order to gain
some understanding of why its regional sarees are diversified in the ways they have
,we first need to know about geographic and historical complexity.
North India
Patan patola: gujrat
Lahariya: rajasthan
Bandhni : rajsthan
Khadi saree
Banaras brocade saree
Jamdani muslin
Tussar saree : bihar, bhagalpuri silk
Bengali silk :puja sarees
Modern Baluchadi saree: Ramayana
Traditional Baluchadi saree: mugal asthetics
Chikan kari saree: Lacknow U.P.
Kantha saree
Manipuri sarees: munga silk
Mekhla chadar :Asam
The southern reagion covers the tropical land of Karnataka, southern Andhra,
Kerala, Tamil Nadu and the island nation of Sri Lanka . South India is responsible for
90 % of all the mulberry silk produced in India. The list of south indian saris is
mentioned below :
The Kornad sari of Tamil Nadu
Kosara pudava: white and gold muslin
Venkatgiri Muslin saree: Andhra
Paithini saree : Maharashtra
Deccan saree : Maharashtra
Parsi saree: embroidered
Shallu saree: Chanderi +Paithini
20
21
22
23
INSPIRATION: Inspiration is derived from mughal art and architecture. ( Indo- Islamic- Persian art)
INITIAL CONCEPTS
MOTIF GENERATION
24
Pleates
body
Pallu
25
INSPIRATION: Inspiration is derived from mughal art and architecture. ( Indo- Islamic- Persian art)
INITIAL CONCEPTS
MOTIF GENERATION
26
FINAL SAREE PHOTOSHOOT
27
INSPIRATION: Inspiration is derived from mughal art and architecture. ( Indo- Islamic- Persian art)
INITIAL CONCEPTS
MOTIF GENERATION
28
FINAL SAREE PHOTOSHOOT
29
INSPIRATION: Inspiration is derived from mughal art and architecture. ( lotus)
INITIAL CONCEPTS
MOTIF GENERATION
30
Pleates
body
Pallu
Pleates
body
Pallu
31
Pleates
body
Pallu
32
33
INSPIRATION: Inspiration is derived from mughal art and architecture. ( lotus) and the ekkat effects are used in printing.
INITIAL CONCEPTS
MOTIF GENERATION
34
Final Designs
FINAL SAREE LAY OUT
35
INITIAL DESIGNS
FINAL SAREE LAYOUT
Pleates
body
Pallu
36
Color ways
Photo shoot
37
The Theme is about The great Rajasthan and
its beautiful and colorful culture.
It is like a full thali of Rajasthan meal
It is like a colorful carnival in town.
Like a folk dance of nomad women
Like a long nights with grand mother’s stories.
and like journey to the royal Kingdome.
It is more about all the crafted things which are
created by the craftitian and
the artists.
38
39
INSPIRATION: TIE AND DYE
INITIAL CONCEPTS
MOTIF GENERATION
40
Initial Saree concepts
Pleates
body
Pallu
41
Pleates
body
Pallu
42
Pleates
body
Pallu
43
Pleates
body
Pallu
44
Pleates
body
Pallu
45
Pleates
body
Pallu
Final Designs
46
FINAL SAREE PHOTOSHOOT
47
INSPIRATION: Sangneri blocks
INITIAL CONCEPTS
MOTIF GENERATION
Sanganer block print motif inspiration
Final selected motif
48
49
Initial concepts: Big Sanganeri blocks and Paisley.
50
51
Saree Layouts
52
53
Final Designs
54
FINAL SAREE PHOTOSHOOT
55
INSPIRATION: Indian Miniature paintings AND Rajasthani artwork
MOTIF GENERATION
INITIAL CONCEPTS
56
Final form generation
57
Final Designs
58
INSPIRATION: Big Pallu Design
and Folk Rajasthani artwork (musical instuments).
59
INSPIRATION: GEO AZTEC
INITIAL CONCEPTS
60
Initial Explorations: Placements prints
61
Initial Explorations
62
Final Designs
Color ways
63
Final Photoshoot
64
65
•Consumption
•Fabric cost Per Saree
•Wash
•6.5 meter
•500 silk
•10
Print
•screen development cost
•Screen preparation cost
•Printing Cost(labor cost)
•Dye cost
•45 Rs
•20 Rs
•10 Rs
•10 Rs
Finishing
•Stain guard
•Calendaring
•centering
•Final finishing with trims
•10 Rs
•10 Rs
•10 Rs
•10 Rs
Fabric
66
Final whole sale Rate of The Saree
•Tussar Saree: gheecha = 3500 Rs
•Crepe Silk with golden Zari border = 4500 and above
•Cotton sari with zari border= 3000 and above
•Cottone sari with embroidery = 4000 and above
67
Journey In Pathi was a small lesson of my life where I
learnt many big things and developed into habit.
It was a silent place to help a person to take the time
to introspect In to her self and identify in the inner
creativity.
I worked on Saree printing
The project was about Indian silk saree. In Pathi
Emporium there was a huge scope of exploration and
implementation in areas of printing . So I preferred to
work in printing of sarees with various Inspirations
from India in contemporary manner.
It was all about giving a slight contemporary twist to
traditional sarees of the Pathi Sadan Since 1902 they
were doing purely traditional sarees .It was a heartfelt
attempt to make it stylish with the fragrance of
traditions in it .
I must say that it was very peaceful place to work.
I learnt all the patience things here.
68
69
IBLIOGRAPHY
a) Books
Pattern and Ornamentation
in the arts of india
Henry Wilson
Thams and hundson Ltd, 2011
b) Indian Textile
By John Gillow & Nicolas bamard
Thams and hundson Ltd, 2011
c) jaypore.com
d) Indian roots
70