West Highland Way

Transcription

West Highland Way
West Highland Way
Why the West Highland Way
‘Hike the West Highland Way’, a Scotsman once told me.
We met briefly, both hiking in the French Alpes. I had
mentioned to him I wanted to go to Scotland on my next
trip. He had a brilliant sales pitch: the West Highland
Way is well maintained, well way marked and gradually
takes you into more rough territory and into the Scottish
Highlands. You spend two days on the shores of Loch
Lomond, cross moors and walk down into beautiful glens.
Scotland, United Kingdom
7 Days / 152 KM
Point to point
Medium
For large parts the West Highland Way follows old military
and drover roads. Walking the West Highland Way,
you’ll rest in villages, inns or hotels where century’s ago
drovers would stay for the night driving livestock from the
Highlands to markets in the south.
The West Highland Way also has a couple very practical
plus-points. You’re at the start of the West Highland Way
within an hour from anywhere in Glasgow, and back in
Glasgow from the finish in Fort William within a couple of
hours. Also, on the West Highland Way you’re never very
far from civilisation, making it also suitable for the not that
experienced hikers.
The views of Rannoch Moor keep surprising you © by ipohkia on Flickr
Taking you 152 km north from Glasgow, the West
Highland Way is a wonderful way to experience
Scotland, its nature and highlands. You’ll probably want
to come back to it, as so many people do, hiking it once
in spring and then a second time in autumn. It’s that
beautiful with it’s changing scenery taking you along
the shores of Loch Lomond, pastures and then through
moors and up into the highlands.
There’s plenty of options to stay or eat, so you can walk
the West Highland Way in as many or as little days as you
like. I’ve hiked the West Highland Way twice (yes, it is that
nice) and think 7 days is probably best. Shortening the
hike to 5 or 6 days means you’ll be rushing it. Taking 8
or 9 days (without detours) means walking only a couple
of hours every day and having lots of spare time on your
hands.
ASCEND AND DESCEND
4489m
The ‘rule’ is you start the West Highland Way in Milngavie,
close to Glasgow, and walk north to Fort William. But
there is no law against starting in Fort William and making
your way south to Milngavie. Many people walk only parts
the West Highland Way and some return to hike another
section. Thats very easy, since public transportation is
never far away (as you get closer to Fort William, the trail
is more remote though).
3682m
SCENERY
PRACTICAL INFO
When to go
JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC
Although you can take on the West Highland Way
whenever you want, May, June, September and October
are probably the best times to walk the Way. In spring
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you’ll see nature waking up after winter, and autumn can
be a pleasant surprise with nice warm days. In winter (or
roughly from november to april) it will be cold and snow
can make the path very difficult and parts will even be
dangerous.
starting their walk at the train station, just a few minutes
away from the obelisk. Exiting the train station, turn left
and head to the underpass that will take you to Station
Road. Just follow the road into a pedestrian area and
Douglas Street, where you can’t miss the obelisk.
How hard
In July and August the weather is nice and warm (august
in Scotland can be wet though), but the summer months
are very busy. You may find hotels fully booked and
see other walkers most of the day. And also in summer
midges (very small, stinging flies) can ruin an afternoon
lunch or even make you abandon the route and run
home. Midges are small, but there’s lots and lots of them
and they can detect the carbon dioxide in your breath
200 metres away.
For the experienced and fit walker, the West Highland
Way is never hard, only if you head out in winter. But it’s
not an easy walk either. If you decide to walk the entire
way in one go, remember: it’s 154 km (96 miles). Because
you’ll need to reach a place to stay every night and you’ll
want to refuel at restaurants, pubs or a shop, some of
your days on the way will be long and strenuous. But if
you’re able to walk up to 8 hours in a day, you’ll be fine.
Starting point
Camping can make the West Highland Way a lot harder,
you’ll be carrying a large backpack and need to carry
fuel, food, water for at least one or two days. I’ve seen
plenty of hikers, heads down, eyes looking at their feet,
toiling their rucksacks at the end of a day and wondered
if they were actually enjoying themselves. I won’t advise
against camping, I’ve hiked the way myself twice, once
camping every night and I enjoyed that very much. Just
make sure you realise that camping is not a picnic.
Planning
© Mapbox © OpenStreetMap
You can walk the West Highland Way in as many or as
little days as you like. I’ve seen people running parts of
the route, there’s actually a yearly race with competitors
reaching Fort William in less than 16 hours!
STARTING POINT
Douglas Street, Milngavnie
TRANSPORT TO START
Most of us will probably need a bit more than that. About
6, 7 or maybe 8 days. It depends on how much time
you have, how fit you (and your companions) are, and
also where you want to stay overnight. The farther north
you go, the options to stay overnight are limited and
the distance between hotels increase. You won’t find
accommodation between Kinlochleven and Fort William,
making the last day a 22-kilometer hike.
The West Highland Way starts in Milngavie, a town just
outside Glasgow. Milngavie is very easily reached by
car or public transport. From Glasgow, take the train to
Milngavie from Glasgow Central Station.
In case you’re flying to Glasgow International Airport,
there’s a convenient shuttle bus to Glasgow Central
Station. Fort William has regular trains and busses back to
Glasgow.
If you take a tent and camping gear and you’re willing
to camp in the wild, of course you’re options are almost
limitless. If you plan to camp, be aware that camping is
not permitted everywhere. Along Loch Lomond, between
Drymen and Ptarmigan Lodge, you’re not allowed to pitch
your tent in the wild, so you’ll need to stay the night at
one of the official campsites or treat yourself to a hotel or
hostel.
To the start
If you stayed the night in Milngavie, you may have passed
the obelisk in the centre of town, the official start of the
West Highland Way. Most hikers arrive in the morning,
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The ‘officials’ that maintain the West Highland Way have
divided the route into 13 sections, each section starting
and ending at a village or hotel. In this Hikable Guide
I describe a 7-day hike. But you can make your own
decision and even change your mind on the go. You
could also find a couple of extra’s, like the option to hike
up Ben Lomond to enjoy grand views over the Highlands.
Orchy is probably your best option. I also found that the
path along Loch Lomond is beautiful, but also the hardest
part of the West Highland Way making the 30-kilometre
day between Rowardennan and Crianlarich a long one.
You could stay in Inverarnan for the night.
A good way to squeeze the route into 6 days would be
not to stay in Bridge of Orchy, but to keep going for about
another 3 kilometres to Inveroran and make it all the way
to Kinlochleven the day after that. You could do it in 5
days, but even if you’re super fit that will be tough.
So, it’s really up to you. On different points on the route
you’ll be able to take a bus or order a taxi, making the
number of options you have almost limitless. To give you
some inspiration, here’s how I hiked the West Highland
Way in august of 2013 (yes, I went in high season). And 3
more conventional ways: one in 6, one in 7 and one in 8
days.
Finding your way
The West Highland Way is very well waymarked, with
a white thistle within a hexagon. In theory you could
probably get lost, but that won’t be easy. The path is well
maintained, and I’ve found that the moment you start
looking for the next waymark, you’ll see it shortly.
My summer of 2013 itinerary is somewhat peculiar with
some long and some short days. I brought a tent and
camping gear and changed my plans almost daily, maybe
more than once every day. Depending on the weather
(august can be rainy) or how my feet felt, I would stop
early of push on at the end of the day.
If you don’t want to rely on our digital map on your mobile
device, you could bring a paper map. Harvey publishes
a perfect (waterproof) map for the entire West Highland
Way (scale 1 : 40,000).
• Day 1 Milngavie - Milarrochy campsite, just north of
Balmaha (34 km)
• Day 2 Milarrochy - Rowchoish bothy (16 km)
• Day 3 Rowchoish - Beinglas farm (15 km)
• Day 4 Beinglas farm - Bridge of Orchy (30 km)
• Day 5 Bridge of Orchy - Kingshouse Hotel (20 km)
• Day 6 Kingshouse Hotel - Kinlochleven (15 km)
• Day 7 Kinlochleven - Fort William (22 km)
What to bring
What, and how much, you bring on a long distance hike
is a matter of personal preference. I try to take as little
as possible. Even when I camp, I make sure to keep my
backpack under 10kg. That means little comfort though,
reading my book on my mobile phone and putting on the
same t-shirt every morning.
Because most people prefer a hotel, B&B or bunkhouse
over a tent, a more usual option would be this:
So it’s a matter of choice, really. Just realise that the West
Highland Way is not a walk in the park. At some point
you’ll be a couple of hours from the nearest village or
major road. And although the trail is well maintained,
you’ll definitely do some scrambling on rocks and tree
roots. So, wear good (waterproof) hiking boots, bring a
waterproof jacket and trousers (even in summer) and an
extra set of clothing to keep you warm after a long day.
A (small) first aid kit can be helpful in case painful blisters
and absolutely necessary in case of a fall.
• Day 1 Milngavie - Drymen (19,2 km)
• Day 2 Drymen - Rowardennan (24 km)
• Day 3 Rowardennan - Crianlarich (32 km)
• Day 4 Crianlarich - Bridge of Orchy (20,8 km)
• Day 5 Bridge of Orchy - Kingshouse (19,2 km)
• Day 6 Kingshouse - Kinlochleven (14,4 km)
• Day 7 Kinlochleven - Fort William (24 km)
If you want to take it easy, you could choose to do the
West Highland Way in 8 days. Because the first stretch of
the West Highland Way is easy going, shortening the first
two days isn’t really necessary. Between Bridge of Orchy
and Fort William, accommodation is scarce, so taking an
extra day somewhere between Drymen and Bridge of
Don’t expect to find something to eat or drink every hour
or so. This means you’ll need to bring a backpack that is
large enough for a water bottle, lunch and snacks next
to your personal items. If you plan to camp, don’t forget
you’ll need to carry plenty food and water, you won’t find
a shop on every stage of the West Highland Way.
HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
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DAY 1
Milngavie to Drymen
5 Hours / 19 km
419 m
307 m
4
6
5
3
2
1
© Mapbox © OpenStreetMap
Old railway line
Looking at the map, the first couple of hours of the West
Highland Way may not look that promising. The first day
the trail keeps close to roads and buildings of all sorts.
Please, don’t trust this first impression. Most of the time,
the West Highland Way cleverly avoids the bustle of the
outskirts of Glasgow. It also feels right. You’re leaving
Milngavie behind and with it the routines and hassle - or
maybe even stress - of your daily life.
Your first steps on the West Highland Way follow an old
railway line, along Allander Water and through Allander
Park to Mugdock Wood. Almost immediately you’ll forget
you’re still close to Milngavie and Glasgow.
The path is easygoing here and exceptionally well way
marked. After a while, you’ll pass Craigallian Loch on your
right and then Carbeth Loch on your left. When you reach
the B821, turn left for about 300 meters or so and cross
the road to pick up the footpath again.
If you need supplies (like I did coming straight from
Glasgow Airport) head over to The Iron Chef 1 , a small
hardware store just 50 meters from the start. You’ll find
something to drink or eat every day for the coming days,
but shops are scarce between Milngavie and Fort William.
Leaving the B821 behind, you’ll enter open farmland and
the path soon follows a disused railway line again, this
time the old Blane Valley Railway. This track takes you
almost all the way to Gartness, about 5 km south from
Drymen, the goal of most walkers on day one.
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Distillery
3 Beech Tree Inn
But first, the Glengoyne Distillery 2 will tempt you to
take a short break. You’ll see its white buildings on your
right about 11 km from the start. Depending on the time of
day, this is a nice place to stop for a while. If you’re more
interested in tea or coffee, or a lunch, just about 3 km
further on you’ll pass Beech Tree Inn. 3
Restaurant Bar
With a large garden with picknick tables an right next to
the trail, the Beech Tree Inn looks to be made for walkers
of the West Highland Way.
Dumgoyne by Killearn, Stirlingshire, G63 9LA
+44 136 055 0297 [email protected]
http://www.thebeechtreeinn.co.uk
Just passed the Beech Tree Inn you’ll have to walk along
the A81 for a short while, before taking up the railway
track again. The path now runs parallel to the A81 for a
couple of kilometers.
4 Drymen
Hotel Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus
Drymen has a nice village green, a small shop and a
couple of restaurants and pubs. Plenty of places to stay
as well.
Soon you’ll be leaving the A81 and the railway track, and
then it’s just another 5 or 6 km to Drymen. 4 The West
Highland Way actually doesn’t pass through Drymen. So
if you’re staying the night in town, as many walkers do,
you’ll have to leave the path and walk into the village
(about 1 km).
5 Wishingwell Farmhouse
Campsite Restaurant Bar
Wishingwell Farmhouse is a nice place to stop for a cup
of tea or coffee. It has a small giftshop. You can also pitch
your tent there.
Even if you’re not staying in Drymen, with its nice village
green it’s worth a short visit. If you want to camp, just
south of Drymen you’ll pass two campsites. One of them
also has cabins available: Wishingwell Farmhouse 5
6
campsite and Easter Drumquhassle Farm.
Drumore Haugh, Gartness, G63 0NJ
+44 136 055 1038 morven@thewishingwellfarmhouse.
co.uk http://hewishingwellfarmhouse.co.uk
6 Drymen Camping (Easter Drumquhassle Farm)
Campsite
Nice place to camp, also has small cabins. They can cook
you breakfast as well and make you a packed lunch if
you ask them.
Points of Interest
1 The Iron Chef
Shop
A hardware shop, perfectly outfitted for hikers and
campers and very close to the start. Very convenient if
you need some insect repellent or gas for your stove.
This is also the office of Travel-Lite, a bagage carrying
service.
Gartness Road, Drymen, G63 0DN
+44 136 066 0597 [email protected]
http://www.drymencamping.co.uk
5 Mugdock Road, Milngavie, G62 8PD
+44 141 956 4597
2 Glengoyne Distillery
Glengoyne Distillery has been making whiskey for about
150 years, so they know what they’re doing. If you have
time, the distillery is certainly worth the visit.
Dumgoyne, Near Killearn, Glasgow, G63 9LB
+44 136 055 0254 [email protected]
http://www.glengoyne.com
HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
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DAY 2
Drymen to Rowardennan
6 Hours / 24 km
665 m
815 m
7
9
6
8
5
4
3
1
2
© Mapbox © OpenStreetMap
After a pretty easy first day, the West Highland Way starts
to demand more effort. First you’ll walk up Conic Hill 1
(360 metres) and then, after a steep descend, you be
walking along Loch Lomond for 2 days. The trail along
Loch Lomond’s shore is the hardest stretch of the West
Highland Way, if you ask me. You’re not in the Highlands
quite yet, but you’ll walk up and down steps, rocks and
tree roots all day. So, take it easy on this second day and
expect to slow down this part of the way.
route to take.
Near Drymen the trail follows the A811 to the east. After a
couple of hundred meters, you turn left and walk towards
Garadhban Forest. Exiting the forest, you’ll be walking
up Conic Hill. In April and May it’s lambing and calving
season, so farmers may ask you to avoid the route up
to Conic Hill. There is a detour. From Garadhban Forest,
descend down to Milton of Buchanan (roughly an hour
from Drymen) and from there make your way to Balmaha.
If for some reason you want to avoid the climb up to
Conic Hill (and the descend down to Balmaha), this is the
After Balmaha you follow the east shore of Loch Lomond.
Here the path becomes more difficult, you’re walking on
rocks and tree roots for the rest of the day (and tomorrow
as well). This is a rewarding part of the trip. One moment
you’re walking right along the shoreline, the next you
enter woodland and lose sight of the lake for a moment. Balmaha 2 is a popular holiday destination and you’ll
pass two large lochside caravan sites: Milarrochy Bay 3
and Cashel Caravan and Camping Site. 4
Conic Hill offers nice views of Loch Lomond (if the
weather is clear). For those who have the energy left,
take the time to get to the top of Conic Hill, the official
route of the West Highland Way just misses it. The steep
descend (take your time, especially in bad weather)
takes you to Balmaha, a nice village on the shore of Loch
Lomond.
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5 Rowardennan Hotel (The Clansman Bar)
Rowardennan is a small hamlet. Rowardennan Hotel 5 is
a good place to stay, and so is Rowardennan Lodge
Youth Hostel. 6 You’re now close to Ben Lomond (974),
a popular day trip from Rowardennan and a nice way to
extend your trip with an extra day of walking. At the foot
of Ben Lomond 7 , the National Trust for Scotland offers
basic accommodation at Ben Lomond Bunkhouse 8 ,
Ardess Lodge.
Hotel Lodge Restaurant Bar
+44 136 087 0273 [email protected]
http://www.rowardennanhotel.co.ukk
6 Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel
Hostel Restaurant Bar
Closed parts of december and januari
If you ask me, located on the banks of Loch Lomond, this
youth hostel couldn\’t be on a better spot. It\’s also close
to the foot of Ben Lomond, making it a nice place to stay
an extra night and to leave the West Highland Way for a
day and enjoy the views
Campers, be aware that wild camping is not permitted
between Drymen and Ptarmigan Lodge 9 , north of
Rowardennan.
Points of Interest
Rowardennan Lodge, By Drymen, G63 0AR
+44 136 087 0259 [email protected]
1 Conic Hill
7 Ben Lomond
Over 300 metres high, Conic Hill is a surprisingly tiring
climb. If the weather is right, you’ll see Loch Lomond.
Don’t underestimate the descend into Balmaha.
8 Ben Lomond Bunkhouse, Ardess Lodge
Lodge
At the foot of Ben Lomond, the National Trust for Scotland
offers basic accommodation at Ben Lomond Bunkhouse,
Ardess Lodge.
2 Balmaha
Hotel Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus
3 Milarrochy Bay Camping and Caravanning Club
+44 8444932108 [email protected] http://www.nts.org.
uk
Site
Campsite Shop
Closed in winter, open from april to the end of october
North of Drymen, this is a large campsite also accessible
for caravans. Walkers staying overnight camp at a
designated spot. There\’s also a simple kitchen area,
where you can cook a meal or eat your breakfast.
9 Ptarmigan Lodge
Ptarmigan Lodge is a privately owned cottage.
Milarrochy Bay, Balmaha Nr Drymen, G63 0AL
+44 136 087 0236
4 Cashel Caravan and Camping Site
Campsite Shop
1 March - 27 October
+44 136 087 0234
HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
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DAY 3
Rowardennan to Crianlarich
9 Hours / 32 km
1305 m
844 m
8
76
1
2
5
4
3
© Mapbox © OpenStreetMap
The first stretch of this third day on the West Highland
Way starts just like the second day ended. The trail
again follows the shore of Loch Lomond most of the day,
sometimes leaving the Loch and heading into woodland,
to then return to its pebbled beaches. At Ardleish you’ll
leave Loch Lomond behind, and the character of the
West Highland Way changes as you are getting closer to
the Highlands.
Not far from Rowardennan, just past Ptarmigan Lodge
(private), you can choose to take a (more difficult)
alternative route that stays very close to the water.
This is a long day. Probably the hardest part of the West
Highland Way. You can easily shorten it by staying in
Ardlui 1 (in summer, there’s a ferry 2 crossing the lake)
or Inverarnan, extending your trip to a more leisurely 8
days. It all depends on how much time you have and of
course on how much your legs can take.
From the bothy, the trail leads you back to shore of Loch
Lomond, taking you to Inversnaid (there’s a hotel and
a bunkhouse). Past the Inversnaid Hotel 4 you walk
on tree roots and rocks, slowing down your pace. Just
north of the hotel you’ll pass Rob Roy’s Cave, where this
famous 17th, 18th century outlaw supposedly hid from
his enemies ( a few kilometers back, south of Inversnaid,
The ‘official’ route is a more easygoing (but beautiful)
forest track. From both routes you can get to Rowchoish
Bothy 3 , now a simple shelter that was used up until the
late thirties.
HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
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7 Drovers Inn
you’ve passed Rob Roy’s prison, where he’s supposed to
have kept prisoners himself).
Hotel Restaurant Bar
This old inn was used by the Highland drovers who drove
their cattle to the markets in the south.+44 1301 704234
[email protected], www.thedroversinn.co.uk
Just before Ardleish (nothing more then a ruined cottage)
and after another shelter (Doune Bothy) 5 , there’s a
ferry 2 to Ardlui on the other side of the lake. The trail
now leaves Loch Lomond behind. A few kilometers after
Ardleish, you’ll reach Beinglas Farm 6 and across the
river Drovers Inn. 7 You now follow the A82, crossing it
about an hour south of Crianlarich. 8 You’re now walking
on old military roads, and Crianlarich isn’t far.
8 Crianlarich
Hotel Hostel Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus
Taxi
Points of Interest
1 Ardlui Hotel
Hotel Campsite Restaurant Bar
Just raise the ball at the ferry crossing, just off the West
Highland Way and the nice people of the Ardlui Hotel
will come and pick you up. Don’t forget to check their
website if the ferry is running. Ardlui Loch Lomond, G83
7EB, +44 1301 704 243 [email protected] www.ardlui.co.uk
3 Rowchoish bothy
Year round
This old barn is maintained by the Mountain Bothies
Association. It’s dry and it has a working fireplace. Staying
here is free, and a fun experience. In summer, don’t
expect to have it all to yourself.
4 Inversnaid Hotel
Hotel Restaurant Bar
Inversnaid, By Aberfoyle, FK8 3TU
+44 1877 386 223 [email protected]
www.lochsandglens.com
6 Beinglas Campsite
Campsite Restaurant Bar
Year round
Nice place to stop for a drink. The campsite is decent,
and has good hot showers. Store has basic food
utilities as well as gas canisters. Cabins are basic but
adequate. Make a reservation in high season. Inverarnan,
Loch Lomond, G83 7DX, +44 1301 704 281 info@
beinglascampsite.com
www.beinglascampsite.com
HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
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DAY 4
Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy
6 Hours / 21 km
431 m
517 m
5
4
23
1
© Mapbox © OpenStreetMap
From Crianlarich 1 , head back up to the trail that leads
you west through the trees and then descends into Strath
Fillan ( just follow the A82 until you hit the trail again).
You’ll walk through this wide valley towards Tyndrum 2 ,
passing underneath the railway and crossing the A82 and
River Fillan to Kirkton Farm and what remains of St Fillan’s
Chapel. Less than a kilometer from there, you’ll get to
Auchtertyre Farm 3 , a working farm that lets wigwams,
has a small shop and serves tea and coffee.
walking is easy, the views are nice. You’ll cross the
railway line a couple of times, before reaching the
Bridge of Orchy Hotel. 4 Just on the other side of the
river Orchy, you can pitch a tent (no facilities). About 4
kilometers north of Bridge of Orchy, Inveroran Hotel 5 is
an alternative place to stay. There’s also a place to pitch
your tent there.
After Auchtertyre the trail crosses the highway again, and
then heads into Tyndrum. After walking for days, Tyndrum
looks and feels a bit like a busy truck stop (it already was
a popular spot to rest among cattle drovers in the 18th
and 19th century). There’s a couple of shops, so you can
stock up on supplies. Don’t forget, because the next shop
you’ll see will be in Kinlochleven.
Points of Interest
1 Crianlarich
Hotel Hostel Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus
Taxi
The next 10 kilometers follow an old military road. The
HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
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2 Tyndrum
Hotel Restaurant Bar Shop Bus
3 Auchtertyre Farm (Strathfillan Wigwams)
Campsite Lodge Shop
Auchtertyre Farm is a working farm that also manages
Strathfillan Wigwams and a shop, where you can sit
down for a cup a of tea. There place for tents as well.
Auchtertyre Farm, Crianlarich, FK20 8RU
+44 1838 400251, www.facebook.com/pages/Strathfillan
Wigwams/210559205654705
4 Bridge of Orchy Hotel
Hotel Campsite Restaurant Bar
Year round
If you can afford it, give you’re feet a rest here. The hotel
is beautiful, the rooms are large and modern. Don’t forget
to try the salmon for breakfast. Hikers on a budget can
pitch their tent (for free) just across the bridge. Bridge
of Orchy, Argyll, PA36 4AD,+44 1838 400208 info@
bridgeoforchy.co.uk, www bridgeoforchy.co.uk
5 Inveroran Hotel
Hotel Campsite Restaurant
Inveroran Hotel is a 19th century inn. Just passed the
hotel you can pitch a tent, and enjoy breakfast sitting at a
table the next morning. Bridge of Orchy, PA36 4AQ
+44 1838400220 [email protected]
www.inveroran.com
HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY
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DAY 5
Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse
5 Hours / 19 km
511 m
434 m
3
2
1
© Mapbox © OpenStreetMap
The West Highland Way now takes you to Rannoch
Moor and right into the highlands. After an easy climb
through woodland, you’ll enjoy your first views out over
Rannoch Moor. You’ll pass the Inveroran Hotel 1 and
then you’ll gently walk up onto Rannoch Moor. Here the
West Highland Way can feel isolated, even unfriendly
when the weather turns. There nothing much here but
moorland. After about 13 kilometers, you’ll see the chairlift
of Glencoe Mountain Resort. 2 Then it’s just another 2
kilometers to the Kingshouse Hotel. 3
Points of Interest
1 Inveroran Hotel
Hotel Campsite Restaurant
Inveroran Hotel is a 19th century inn. Just passed the
hotel you can pitch a tent, and enjoy breakfast sitting at a
table the next morning.
Bridge of Orchy, PA36 4AQ
+44 1838400220 [email protected]
www.inveroran.com
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2 Glencoe Mountain Resort
Campsite Restaurant Bus
Open year round
With a ski lift and mountain bike hire, Glencoe Mountain
Resort can’t match the character of Kingshouse, 20
minutes further along the West Highland Way. On the
other hand, the food is good, the people friendly. And if
it’s rainy: they have a drying room you can use.
Glencoe, Argyll, PH49 4HZ
+44 1855 851 226 [email protected]
www.glencoemountain.co.uk
3 Kings House Hotel
Hotel Campsite Restaurant Bar
Year round
Built in the 17th century, Kings House Hotel bursts of
character. It’s popular, so do make a reservation. Camping
on the other side of the river is permitted and free. Enjoy
a meal and have a beer or whiskey with other hikers in
the Walkers Bar.
Glencoe, Argyll, PH49 4HY
+44 1855 851 259
http://www.kingy.com
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DAY 6
Kingshouse to Kinlochleven
4 Hours / 14 km
423 m
659 m
2
1
© Mapbox © OpenStreetMap
some shopping.
This is a short day. Relax in the morning, plan a long
lunch along the way or walk around Kinlochleven in the
afternoon. The first 5 kilometers follow a wide track along
the A82, then you turn right and go straight up Devil’s
Staircase (548m) 1 , the top of the West Highland Way.
The name sounds daunting, and Devil’s Staircase is a
serious climb, but your sixth day in, you’ll be enjoying the
views from the top before you know it.
Points of Interest
2 Kinlochleven
Hotel Campsite Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop
Bus
From Devil’s Staircase it’s down to Kinlochleven. 2 The
last steps to the town are not the most inspiring, since
you’ll be walking past long water pipes that carry water
from the Blackwater Reservoir to the hydroelectric power
station in Kinlochleven. When you see the pipes, you’re
almost there. The path leads you into town, where there’s
plenty of options to stay the night, have a drink or do
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DAY 7
Kinlochleven to Fort William
7 Hours / 24 km
735 m
737 m
3
2
1
© Mapbox © OpenStreetMap
You’re almost there. Maybe by now you’re looking
forward to your last steps on the West Highland Way, or
maybe you’re not done walking yet (in which case you
could consider heading up to Inverness, via the The
Great Glen Way, which is another 118 km or 73 miles from
Fort William). But you’ll probably experience some kind
of feeling of accomplishment, as I did walking down into
Glen Nevis and eventually through Fort William, until this
last moment just a name, but also your goal for the last
couple of days.
road to the north (B863) for a short while. Turn right for
a short (but somewhat steep) climb through woodland
to reach the military road that takes you west and turns
north after an hour or two.
Just before the descent into Glen Nevis, there is an iron
age fort, Dun Deardail. 2 It’s a short detour and worth a
visit. There’s not much left after thousands of years, but
you can see the outline of the fort on a hilltop, and enjoy
the views though. You can’t miss it, there’s a big sign right
next to the road.
The day starts on military roads, the path before you
in plain view and easygoing most of the time. But
remember: you’ll perhaps see other hikers, but there’s
not much else between Kinlochleven and Fort William. So
bring enough food and water for the day.
From there it’s downhill into the glen and back to
civilisation. The end of the West Highland Way was
moved in 2010 to Gordon Square, right in the middle of
Fort William. 3 Plenty of places to stay or have a bite to
eat here. The campsite is a short hour long walk back,
and is very close to the route of the West Highland Way.
Leave Kinlochleven 1 behind you by following the main
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About the author
So, if you plan to camp you could leave the trail and
descend to the campsite, pitch your tent and leave your
things there before walking the last bit of the way.
Jan Douwe Kooistra
Walking is an important part of my life. Has been for as
long as I can remember. In the woods, around town and
as often as possible in the mountains. I even did some
mountain climbing. I climbed Castor (4226), my first (and
only) four-thousander, together with my girlfriend. It’s a
beautiful climb, close to Matterhorn in Switzerland. But I
guess I just love hiking more.
Points of Interest
1 Kinlochleven
Hotel Campsite Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop
Bus.
I’ve never found really good digital hiking guides, so I
decided to make them myself. You’re reading one of
them, I hope you like it. I’d really like to hear from you
what you think and if my guides are useful.
3 Fort William
Hotel Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus Train
I’ve walked the West Highland Way twice, once years
ago and a second time in the summer of 2013 to write
this guide. And there’s a big chance that I’ll walk it again.
Maybe I’ll take my daughter when she’s old enough.
Colofon
This Hikable Guide is created by Hikable. If you want let
us know what you think or if you think something is not
correct, just email the author at [email protected].
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