West Highland Way
Transcription
West Highland Way
West Highland Way Why the West Highland Way ‘Hike the West Highland Way’, a Scotsman once told me. We met briefly, both hiking in the French Alpes. I had mentioned to him I wanted to go to Scotland on my next trip. He had a brilliant sales pitch: the West Highland Way is well maintained, well way marked and gradually takes you into more rough territory and into the Scottish Highlands. You spend two days on the shores of Loch Lomond, cross moors and walk down into beautiful glens. Scotland, United Kingdom 7 Days / 152 KM Point to point Medium For large parts the West Highland Way follows old military and drover roads. Walking the West Highland Way, you’ll rest in villages, inns or hotels where century’s ago drovers would stay for the night driving livestock from the Highlands to markets in the south. The West Highland Way also has a couple very practical plus-points. You’re at the start of the West Highland Way within an hour from anywhere in Glasgow, and back in Glasgow from the finish in Fort William within a couple of hours. Also, on the West Highland Way you’re never very far from civilisation, making it also suitable for the not that experienced hikers. The views of Rannoch Moor keep surprising you © by ipohkia on Flickr Taking you 152 km north from Glasgow, the West Highland Way is a wonderful way to experience Scotland, its nature and highlands. You’ll probably want to come back to it, as so many people do, hiking it once in spring and then a second time in autumn. It’s that beautiful with it’s changing scenery taking you along the shores of Loch Lomond, pastures and then through moors and up into the highlands. There’s plenty of options to stay or eat, so you can walk the West Highland Way in as many or as little days as you like. I’ve hiked the West Highland Way twice (yes, it is that nice) and think 7 days is probably best. Shortening the hike to 5 or 6 days means you’ll be rushing it. Taking 8 or 9 days (without detours) means walking only a couple of hours every day and having lots of spare time on your hands. ASCEND AND DESCEND 4489m The ‘rule’ is you start the West Highland Way in Milngavie, close to Glasgow, and walk north to Fort William. But there is no law against starting in Fort William and making your way south to Milngavie. Many people walk only parts the West Highland Way and some return to hike another section. Thats very easy, since public transportation is never far away (as you get closer to Fort William, the trail is more remote though). 3682m SCENERY PRACTICAL INFO When to go JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC Although you can take on the West Highland Way whenever you want, May, June, September and October are probably the best times to walk the Way. In spring HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 1 you’ll see nature waking up after winter, and autumn can be a pleasant surprise with nice warm days. In winter (or roughly from november to april) it will be cold and snow can make the path very difficult and parts will even be dangerous. starting their walk at the train station, just a few minutes away from the obelisk. Exiting the train station, turn left and head to the underpass that will take you to Station Road. Just follow the road into a pedestrian area and Douglas Street, where you can’t miss the obelisk. How hard In July and August the weather is nice and warm (august in Scotland can be wet though), but the summer months are very busy. You may find hotels fully booked and see other walkers most of the day. And also in summer midges (very small, stinging flies) can ruin an afternoon lunch or even make you abandon the route and run home. Midges are small, but there’s lots and lots of them and they can detect the carbon dioxide in your breath 200 metres away. For the experienced and fit walker, the West Highland Way is never hard, only if you head out in winter. But it’s not an easy walk either. If you decide to walk the entire way in one go, remember: it’s 154 km (96 miles). Because you’ll need to reach a place to stay every night and you’ll want to refuel at restaurants, pubs or a shop, some of your days on the way will be long and strenuous. But if you’re able to walk up to 8 hours in a day, you’ll be fine. Starting point Camping can make the West Highland Way a lot harder, you’ll be carrying a large backpack and need to carry fuel, food, water for at least one or two days. I’ve seen plenty of hikers, heads down, eyes looking at their feet, toiling their rucksacks at the end of a day and wondered if they were actually enjoying themselves. I won’t advise against camping, I’ve hiked the way myself twice, once camping every night and I enjoyed that very much. Just make sure you realise that camping is not a picnic. Planning © Mapbox © OpenStreetMap You can walk the West Highland Way in as many or as little days as you like. I’ve seen people running parts of the route, there’s actually a yearly race with competitors reaching Fort William in less than 16 hours! STARTING POINT Douglas Street, Milngavnie TRANSPORT TO START Most of us will probably need a bit more than that. About 6, 7 or maybe 8 days. It depends on how much time you have, how fit you (and your companions) are, and also where you want to stay overnight. The farther north you go, the options to stay overnight are limited and the distance between hotels increase. You won’t find accommodation between Kinlochleven and Fort William, making the last day a 22-kilometer hike. The West Highland Way starts in Milngavie, a town just outside Glasgow. Milngavie is very easily reached by car or public transport. From Glasgow, take the train to Milngavie from Glasgow Central Station. In case you’re flying to Glasgow International Airport, there’s a convenient shuttle bus to Glasgow Central Station. Fort William has regular trains and busses back to Glasgow. If you take a tent and camping gear and you’re willing to camp in the wild, of course you’re options are almost limitless. If you plan to camp, be aware that camping is not permitted everywhere. Along Loch Lomond, between Drymen and Ptarmigan Lodge, you’re not allowed to pitch your tent in the wild, so you’ll need to stay the night at one of the official campsites or treat yourself to a hotel or hostel. To the start If you stayed the night in Milngavie, you may have passed the obelisk in the centre of town, the official start of the West Highland Way. Most hikers arrive in the morning, HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 2 The ‘officials’ that maintain the West Highland Way have divided the route into 13 sections, each section starting and ending at a village or hotel. In this Hikable Guide I describe a 7-day hike. But you can make your own decision and even change your mind on the go. You could also find a couple of extra’s, like the option to hike up Ben Lomond to enjoy grand views over the Highlands. Orchy is probably your best option. I also found that the path along Loch Lomond is beautiful, but also the hardest part of the West Highland Way making the 30-kilometre day between Rowardennan and Crianlarich a long one. You could stay in Inverarnan for the night. A good way to squeeze the route into 6 days would be not to stay in Bridge of Orchy, but to keep going for about another 3 kilometres to Inveroran and make it all the way to Kinlochleven the day after that. You could do it in 5 days, but even if you’re super fit that will be tough. So, it’s really up to you. On different points on the route you’ll be able to take a bus or order a taxi, making the number of options you have almost limitless. To give you some inspiration, here’s how I hiked the West Highland Way in august of 2013 (yes, I went in high season). And 3 more conventional ways: one in 6, one in 7 and one in 8 days. Finding your way The West Highland Way is very well waymarked, with a white thistle within a hexagon. In theory you could probably get lost, but that won’t be easy. The path is well maintained, and I’ve found that the moment you start looking for the next waymark, you’ll see it shortly. My summer of 2013 itinerary is somewhat peculiar with some long and some short days. I brought a tent and camping gear and changed my plans almost daily, maybe more than once every day. Depending on the weather (august can be rainy) or how my feet felt, I would stop early of push on at the end of the day. If you don’t want to rely on our digital map on your mobile device, you could bring a paper map. Harvey publishes a perfect (waterproof) map for the entire West Highland Way (scale 1 : 40,000). • Day 1 Milngavie - Milarrochy campsite, just north of Balmaha (34 km) • Day 2 Milarrochy - Rowchoish bothy (16 km) • Day 3 Rowchoish - Beinglas farm (15 km) • Day 4 Beinglas farm - Bridge of Orchy (30 km) • Day 5 Bridge of Orchy - Kingshouse Hotel (20 km) • Day 6 Kingshouse Hotel - Kinlochleven (15 km) • Day 7 Kinlochleven - Fort William (22 km) What to bring What, and how much, you bring on a long distance hike is a matter of personal preference. I try to take as little as possible. Even when I camp, I make sure to keep my backpack under 10kg. That means little comfort though, reading my book on my mobile phone and putting on the same t-shirt every morning. Because most people prefer a hotel, B&B or bunkhouse over a tent, a more usual option would be this: So it’s a matter of choice, really. Just realise that the West Highland Way is not a walk in the park. At some point you’ll be a couple of hours from the nearest village or major road. And although the trail is well maintained, you’ll definitely do some scrambling on rocks and tree roots. So, wear good (waterproof) hiking boots, bring a waterproof jacket and trousers (even in summer) and an extra set of clothing to keep you warm after a long day. A (small) first aid kit can be helpful in case painful blisters and absolutely necessary in case of a fall. • Day 1 Milngavie - Drymen (19,2 km) • Day 2 Drymen - Rowardennan (24 km) • Day 3 Rowardennan - Crianlarich (32 km) • Day 4 Crianlarich - Bridge of Orchy (20,8 km) • Day 5 Bridge of Orchy - Kingshouse (19,2 km) • Day 6 Kingshouse - Kinlochleven (14,4 km) • Day 7 Kinlochleven - Fort William (24 km) If you want to take it easy, you could choose to do the West Highland Way in 8 days. Because the first stretch of the West Highland Way is easy going, shortening the first two days isn’t really necessary. Between Bridge of Orchy and Fort William, accommodation is scarce, so taking an extra day somewhere between Drymen and Bridge of Don’t expect to find something to eat or drink every hour or so. This means you’ll need to bring a backpack that is large enough for a water bottle, lunch and snacks next to your personal items. If you plan to camp, don’t forget you’ll need to carry plenty food and water, you won’t find a shop on every stage of the West Highland Way. HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 3 DAY 1 Milngavie to Drymen 5 Hours / 19 km 419 m 307 m 4 6 5 3 2 1 © Mapbox © OpenStreetMap Old railway line Looking at the map, the first couple of hours of the West Highland Way may not look that promising. The first day the trail keeps close to roads and buildings of all sorts. Please, don’t trust this first impression. Most of the time, the West Highland Way cleverly avoids the bustle of the outskirts of Glasgow. It also feels right. You’re leaving Milngavie behind and with it the routines and hassle - or maybe even stress - of your daily life. Your first steps on the West Highland Way follow an old railway line, along Allander Water and through Allander Park to Mugdock Wood. Almost immediately you’ll forget you’re still close to Milngavie and Glasgow. The path is easygoing here and exceptionally well way marked. After a while, you’ll pass Craigallian Loch on your right and then Carbeth Loch on your left. When you reach the B821, turn left for about 300 meters or so and cross the road to pick up the footpath again. If you need supplies (like I did coming straight from Glasgow Airport) head over to The Iron Chef 1 , a small hardware store just 50 meters from the start. You’ll find something to drink or eat every day for the coming days, but shops are scarce between Milngavie and Fort William. Leaving the B821 behind, you’ll enter open farmland and the path soon follows a disused railway line again, this time the old Blane Valley Railway. This track takes you almost all the way to Gartness, about 5 km south from Drymen, the goal of most walkers on day one. HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 4 Distillery 3 Beech Tree Inn But first, the Glengoyne Distillery 2 will tempt you to take a short break. You’ll see its white buildings on your right about 11 km from the start. Depending on the time of day, this is a nice place to stop for a while. If you’re more interested in tea or coffee, or a lunch, just about 3 km further on you’ll pass Beech Tree Inn. 3 Restaurant Bar With a large garden with picknick tables an right next to the trail, the Beech Tree Inn looks to be made for walkers of the West Highland Way. Dumgoyne by Killearn, Stirlingshire, G63 9LA +44 136 055 0297 [email protected] http://www.thebeechtreeinn.co.uk Just passed the Beech Tree Inn you’ll have to walk along the A81 for a short while, before taking up the railway track again. The path now runs parallel to the A81 for a couple of kilometers. 4 Drymen Hotel Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus Drymen has a nice village green, a small shop and a couple of restaurants and pubs. Plenty of places to stay as well. Soon you’ll be leaving the A81 and the railway track, and then it’s just another 5 or 6 km to Drymen. 4 The West Highland Way actually doesn’t pass through Drymen. So if you’re staying the night in town, as many walkers do, you’ll have to leave the path and walk into the village (about 1 km). 5 Wishingwell Farmhouse Campsite Restaurant Bar Wishingwell Farmhouse is a nice place to stop for a cup of tea or coffee. It has a small giftshop. You can also pitch your tent there. Even if you’re not staying in Drymen, with its nice village green it’s worth a short visit. If you want to camp, just south of Drymen you’ll pass two campsites. One of them also has cabins available: Wishingwell Farmhouse 5 6 campsite and Easter Drumquhassle Farm. Drumore Haugh, Gartness, G63 0NJ +44 136 055 1038 morven@thewishingwellfarmhouse. co.uk http://hewishingwellfarmhouse.co.uk 6 Drymen Camping (Easter Drumquhassle Farm) Campsite Nice place to camp, also has small cabins. They can cook you breakfast as well and make you a packed lunch if you ask them. Points of Interest 1 The Iron Chef Shop A hardware shop, perfectly outfitted for hikers and campers and very close to the start. Very convenient if you need some insect repellent or gas for your stove. This is also the office of Travel-Lite, a bagage carrying service. Gartness Road, Drymen, G63 0DN +44 136 066 0597 [email protected] http://www.drymencamping.co.uk 5 Mugdock Road, Milngavie, G62 8PD +44 141 956 4597 2 Glengoyne Distillery Glengoyne Distillery has been making whiskey for about 150 years, so they know what they’re doing. If you have time, the distillery is certainly worth the visit. Dumgoyne, Near Killearn, Glasgow, G63 9LB +44 136 055 0254 [email protected] http://www.glengoyne.com HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 5 DAY 2 Drymen to Rowardennan 6 Hours / 24 km 665 m 815 m 7 9 6 8 5 4 3 1 2 © Mapbox © OpenStreetMap After a pretty easy first day, the West Highland Way starts to demand more effort. First you’ll walk up Conic Hill 1 (360 metres) and then, after a steep descend, you be walking along Loch Lomond for 2 days. The trail along Loch Lomond’s shore is the hardest stretch of the West Highland Way, if you ask me. You’re not in the Highlands quite yet, but you’ll walk up and down steps, rocks and tree roots all day. So, take it easy on this second day and expect to slow down this part of the way. route to take. Near Drymen the trail follows the A811 to the east. After a couple of hundred meters, you turn left and walk towards Garadhban Forest. Exiting the forest, you’ll be walking up Conic Hill. In April and May it’s lambing and calving season, so farmers may ask you to avoid the route up to Conic Hill. There is a detour. From Garadhban Forest, descend down to Milton of Buchanan (roughly an hour from Drymen) and from there make your way to Balmaha. If for some reason you want to avoid the climb up to Conic Hill (and the descend down to Balmaha), this is the After Balmaha you follow the east shore of Loch Lomond. Here the path becomes more difficult, you’re walking on rocks and tree roots for the rest of the day (and tomorrow as well). This is a rewarding part of the trip. One moment you’re walking right along the shoreline, the next you enter woodland and lose sight of the lake for a moment. Balmaha 2 is a popular holiday destination and you’ll pass two large lochside caravan sites: Milarrochy Bay 3 and Cashel Caravan and Camping Site. 4 Conic Hill offers nice views of Loch Lomond (if the weather is clear). For those who have the energy left, take the time to get to the top of Conic Hill, the official route of the West Highland Way just misses it. The steep descend (take your time, especially in bad weather) takes you to Balmaha, a nice village on the shore of Loch Lomond. HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 6 5 Rowardennan Hotel (The Clansman Bar) Rowardennan is a small hamlet. Rowardennan Hotel 5 is a good place to stay, and so is Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel. 6 You’re now close to Ben Lomond (974), a popular day trip from Rowardennan and a nice way to extend your trip with an extra day of walking. At the foot of Ben Lomond 7 , the National Trust for Scotland offers basic accommodation at Ben Lomond Bunkhouse 8 , Ardess Lodge. Hotel Lodge Restaurant Bar +44 136 087 0273 [email protected] http://www.rowardennanhotel.co.ukk 6 Rowardennan Lodge Youth Hostel Hostel Restaurant Bar Closed parts of december and januari If you ask me, located on the banks of Loch Lomond, this youth hostel couldn\’t be on a better spot. It\’s also close to the foot of Ben Lomond, making it a nice place to stay an extra night and to leave the West Highland Way for a day and enjoy the views Campers, be aware that wild camping is not permitted between Drymen and Ptarmigan Lodge 9 , north of Rowardennan. Points of Interest Rowardennan Lodge, By Drymen, G63 0AR +44 136 087 0259 [email protected] 1 Conic Hill 7 Ben Lomond Over 300 metres high, Conic Hill is a surprisingly tiring climb. If the weather is right, you’ll see Loch Lomond. Don’t underestimate the descend into Balmaha. 8 Ben Lomond Bunkhouse, Ardess Lodge Lodge At the foot of Ben Lomond, the National Trust for Scotland offers basic accommodation at Ben Lomond Bunkhouse, Ardess Lodge. 2 Balmaha Hotel Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus 3 Milarrochy Bay Camping and Caravanning Club +44 8444932108 [email protected] http://www.nts.org. uk Site Campsite Shop Closed in winter, open from april to the end of october North of Drymen, this is a large campsite also accessible for caravans. Walkers staying overnight camp at a designated spot. There\’s also a simple kitchen area, where you can cook a meal or eat your breakfast. 9 Ptarmigan Lodge Ptarmigan Lodge is a privately owned cottage. Milarrochy Bay, Balmaha Nr Drymen, G63 0AL +44 136 087 0236 4 Cashel Caravan and Camping Site Campsite Shop 1 March - 27 October +44 136 087 0234 HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 7 DAY 3 Rowardennan to Crianlarich 9 Hours / 32 km 1305 m 844 m 8 76 1 2 5 4 3 © Mapbox © OpenStreetMap The first stretch of this third day on the West Highland Way starts just like the second day ended. The trail again follows the shore of Loch Lomond most of the day, sometimes leaving the Loch and heading into woodland, to then return to its pebbled beaches. At Ardleish you’ll leave Loch Lomond behind, and the character of the West Highland Way changes as you are getting closer to the Highlands. Not far from Rowardennan, just past Ptarmigan Lodge (private), you can choose to take a (more difficult) alternative route that stays very close to the water. This is a long day. Probably the hardest part of the West Highland Way. You can easily shorten it by staying in Ardlui 1 (in summer, there’s a ferry 2 crossing the lake) or Inverarnan, extending your trip to a more leisurely 8 days. It all depends on how much time you have and of course on how much your legs can take. From the bothy, the trail leads you back to shore of Loch Lomond, taking you to Inversnaid (there’s a hotel and a bunkhouse). Past the Inversnaid Hotel 4 you walk on tree roots and rocks, slowing down your pace. Just north of the hotel you’ll pass Rob Roy’s Cave, where this famous 17th, 18th century outlaw supposedly hid from his enemies ( a few kilometers back, south of Inversnaid, The ‘official’ route is a more easygoing (but beautiful) forest track. From both routes you can get to Rowchoish Bothy 3 , now a simple shelter that was used up until the late thirties. HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 8 7 Drovers Inn you’ve passed Rob Roy’s prison, where he’s supposed to have kept prisoners himself). Hotel Restaurant Bar This old inn was used by the Highland drovers who drove their cattle to the markets in the south.+44 1301 704234 [email protected], www.thedroversinn.co.uk Just before Ardleish (nothing more then a ruined cottage) and after another shelter (Doune Bothy) 5 , there’s a ferry 2 to Ardlui on the other side of the lake. The trail now leaves Loch Lomond behind. A few kilometers after Ardleish, you’ll reach Beinglas Farm 6 and across the river Drovers Inn. 7 You now follow the A82, crossing it about an hour south of Crianlarich. 8 You’re now walking on old military roads, and Crianlarich isn’t far. 8 Crianlarich Hotel Hostel Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus Taxi Points of Interest 1 Ardlui Hotel Hotel Campsite Restaurant Bar Just raise the ball at the ferry crossing, just off the West Highland Way and the nice people of the Ardlui Hotel will come and pick you up. Don’t forget to check their website if the ferry is running. Ardlui Loch Lomond, G83 7EB, +44 1301 704 243 [email protected] www.ardlui.co.uk 3 Rowchoish bothy Year round This old barn is maintained by the Mountain Bothies Association. It’s dry and it has a working fireplace. Staying here is free, and a fun experience. In summer, don’t expect to have it all to yourself. 4 Inversnaid Hotel Hotel Restaurant Bar Inversnaid, By Aberfoyle, FK8 3TU +44 1877 386 223 [email protected] www.lochsandglens.com 6 Beinglas Campsite Campsite Restaurant Bar Year round Nice place to stop for a drink. The campsite is decent, and has good hot showers. Store has basic food utilities as well as gas canisters. Cabins are basic but adequate. Make a reservation in high season. Inverarnan, Loch Lomond, G83 7DX, +44 1301 704 281 info@ beinglascampsite.com www.beinglascampsite.com HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 9 DAY 4 Crianlarich to Bridge of Orchy 6 Hours / 21 km 431 m 517 m 5 4 23 1 © Mapbox © OpenStreetMap From Crianlarich 1 , head back up to the trail that leads you west through the trees and then descends into Strath Fillan ( just follow the A82 until you hit the trail again). You’ll walk through this wide valley towards Tyndrum 2 , passing underneath the railway and crossing the A82 and River Fillan to Kirkton Farm and what remains of St Fillan’s Chapel. Less than a kilometer from there, you’ll get to Auchtertyre Farm 3 , a working farm that lets wigwams, has a small shop and serves tea and coffee. walking is easy, the views are nice. You’ll cross the railway line a couple of times, before reaching the Bridge of Orchy Hotel. 4 Just on the other side of the river Orchy, you can pitch a tent (no facilities). About 4 kilometers north of Bridge of Orchy, Inveroran Hotel 5 is an alternative place to stay. There’s also a place to pitch your tent there. After Auchtertyre the trail crosses the highway again, and then heads into Tyndrum. After walking for days, Tyndrum looks and feels a bit like a busy truck stop (it already was a popular spot to rest among cattle drovers in the 18th and 19th century). There’s a couple of shops, so you can stock up on supplies. Don’t forget, because the next shop you’ll see will be in Kinlochleven. Points of Interest 1 Crianlarich Hotel Hostel Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus Taxi The next 10 kilometers follow an old military road. The HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 10 2 Tyndrum Hotel Restaurant Bar Shop Bus 3 Auchtertyre Farm (Strathfillan Wigwams) Campsite Lodge Shop Auchtertyre Farm is a working farm that also manages Strathfillan Wigwams and a shop, where you can sit down for a cup a of tea. There place for tents as well. Auchtertyre Farm, Crianlarich, FK20 8RU +44 1838 400251, www.facebook.com/pages/Strathfillan Wigwams/210559205654705 4 Bridge of Orchy Hotel Hotel Campsite Restaurant Bar Year round If you can afford it, give you’re feet a rest here. The hotel is beautiful, the rooms are large and modern. Don’t forget to try the salmon for breakfast. Hikers on a budget can pitch their tent (for free) just across the bridge. Bridge of Orchy, Argyll, PA36 4AD,+44 1838 400208 info@ bridgeoforchy.co.uk, www bridgeoforchy.co.uk 5 Inveroran Hotel Hotel Campsite Restaurant Inveroran Hotel is a 19th century inn. Just passed the hotel you can pitch a tent, and enjoy breakfast sitting at a table the next morning. Bridge of Orchy, PA36 4AQ +44 1838400220 [email protected] www.inveroran.com HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 11 DAY 5 Bridge of Orchy to Kingshouse 5 Hours / 19 km 511 m 434 m 3 2 1 © Mapbox © OpenStreetMap The West Highland Way now takes you to Rannoch Moor and right into the highlands. After an easy climb through woodland, you’ll enjoy your first views out over Rannoch Moor. You’ll pass the Inveroran Hotel 1 and then you’ll gently walk up onto Rannoch Moor. Here the West Highland Way can feel isolated, even unfriendly when the weather turns. There nothing much here but moorland. After about 13 kilometers, you’ll see the chairlift of Glencoe Mountain Resort. 2 Then it’s just another 2 kilometers to the Kingshouse Hotel. 3 Points of Interest 1 Inveroran Hotel Hotel Campsite Restaurant Inveroran Hotel is a 19th century inn. Just passed the hotel you can pitch a tent, and enjoy breakfast sitting at a table the next morning. Bridge of Orchy, PA36 4AQ +44 1838400220 [email protected] www.inveroran.com HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 12 2 Glencoe Mountain Resort Campsite Restaurant Bus Open year round With a ski lift and mountain bike hire, Glencoe Mountain Resort can’t match the character of Kingshouse, 20 minutes further along the West Highland Way. On the other hand, the food is good, the people friendly. And if it’s rainy: they have a drying room you can use. Glencoe, Argyll, PH49 4HZ +44 1855 851 226 [email protected] www.glencoemountain.co.uk 3 Kings House Hotel Hotel Campsite Restaurant Bar Year round Built in the 17th century, Kings House Hotel bursts of character. It’s popular, so do make a reservation. Camping on the other side of the river is permitted and free. Enjoy a meal and have a beer or whiskey with other hikers in the Walkers Bar. Glencoe, Argyll, PH49 4HY +44 1855 851 259 http://www.kingy.com HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 13 DAY 6 Kingshouse to Kinlochleven 4 Hours / 14 km 423 m 659 m 2 1 © Mapbox © OpenStreetMap some shopping. This is a short day. Relax in the morning, plan a long lunch along the way or walk around Kinlochleven in the afternoon. The first 5 kilometers follow a wide track along the A82, then you turn right and go straight up Devil’s Staircase (548m) 1 , the top of the West Highland Way. The name sounds daunting, and Devil’s Staircase is a serious climb, but your sixth day in, you’ll be enjoying the views from the top before you know it. Points of Interest 2 Kinlochleven Hotel Campsite Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus From Devil’s Staircase it’s down to Kinlochleven. 2 The last steps to the town are not the most inspiring, since you’ll be walking past long water pipes that carry water from the Blackwater Reservoir to the hydroelectric power station in Kinlochleven. When you see the pipes, you’re almost there. The path leads you into town, where there’s plenty of options to stay the night, have a drink or do HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 14 DAY 7 Kinlochleven to Fort William 7 Hours / 24 km 735 m 737 m 3 2 1 © Mapbox © OpenStreetMap You’re almost there. Maybe by now you’re looking forward to your last steps on the West Highland Way, or maybe you’re not done walking yet (in which case you could consider heading up to Inverness, via the The Great Glen Way, which is another 118 km or 73 miles from Fort William). But you’ll probably experience some kind of feeling of accomplishment, as I did walking down into Glen Nevis and eventually through Fort William, until this last moment just a name, but also your goal for the last couple of days. road to the north (B863) for a short while. Turn right for a short (but somewhat steep) climb through woodland to reach the military road that takes you west and turns north after an hour or two. Just before the descent into Glen Nevis, there is an iron age fort, Dun Deardail. 2 It’s a short detour and worth a visit. There’s not much left after thousands of years, but you can see the outline of the fort on a hilltop, and enjoy the views though. You can’t miss it, there’s a big sign right next to the road. The day starts on military roads, the path before you in plain view and easygoing most of the time. But remember: you’ll perhaps see other hikers, but there’s not much else between Kinlochleven and Fort William. So bring enough food and water for the day. From there it’s downhill into the glen and back to civilisation. The end of the West Highland Way was moved in 2010 to Gordon Square, right in the middle of Fort William. 3 Plenty of places to stay or have a bite to eat here. The campsite is a short hour long walk back, and is very close to the route of the West Highland Way. Leave Kinlochleven 1 behind you by following the main HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 15 About the author So, if you plan to camp you could leave the trail and descend to the campsite, pitch your tent and leave your things there before walking the last bit of the way. Jan Douwe Kooistra Walking is an important part of my life. Has been for as long as I can remember. In the woods, around town and as often as possible in the mountains. I even did some mountain climbing. I climbed Castor (4226), my first (and only) four-thousander, together with my girlfriend. It’s a beautiful climb, close to Matterhorn in Switzerland. But I guess I just love hiking more. Points of Interest 1 Kinlochleven Hotel Campsite Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus. I’ve never found really good digital hiking guides, so I decided to make them myself. You’re reading one of them, I hope you like it. I’d really like to hear from you what you think and if my guides are useful. 3 Fort William Hotel Bed & Breakfast Restaurant Bar Shop Bus Train I’ve walked the West Highland Way twice, once years ago and a second time in the summer of 2013 to write this guide. And there’s a big chance that I’ll walk it again. Maybe I’ll take my daughter when she’s old enough. Colofon This Hikable Guide is created by Hikable. If you want let us know what you think or if you think something is not correct, just email the author at [email protected]. HIKABLE GUIDE TO THE WEST HIGHLAND WAY 16
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