The Restaurants That - National Magazine Awards
Transcription
The Restaurants That - National Magazine Awards
I n a year of change and challenge, the restaurants that thrived were those that nailed the basics: great food, smart pricing, and intuitive service. On the 50 pages that follow, we celebrate them. Plus, a look at timeless rooms, the culinary godfather, and dining fads of yore m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 7 1 restaurant awards restaurant of the year Cioppino’s/enoteca 1133HamiltonSt. 604-688-7466 BluewaterCafe 1095HamiltonSt. 604-688-8078 west Chef/proprietor Pino Posteraro keeps a close watch over the Restaurant of the Year 2881GranvilleSt. 604-738-8938 C 2-1600HoweSt. 604-681-1164 Vij’s From left: Shannon Mendes; Mark Maryanovich 7 2 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 1480W.11thAve. 604-736-6664 Bold, hearTY FlaVourS are the hallmark of Yaletown’s Cioppino’s (Gold), where chef Pino Posteraro’s pastas are always stellar (“pappardelle with four-hourbraised veal cheeks and porcini mushrooms will make you weep,” said one judge) and his succulent, spit-roasted duck breast with candied-orange reduction is cooked to juicy perfection. a stomping ground for Canucks, politicos, and corporate players, Posteraro’s room also caters private events for visiting celebs like Bill Clinton. at Blue water Cafe (Silver), Frank Pabst’s remarkable menu, creative sushi by Yoshi Tabo, and a wine list with amazing depth expertly navigated by Chris van nus, all contribute to a top-drawer experience. of west (Bronze), one critic said: “Transitioning between chefs is never easy. retaining all aspects of west’s superb service and ambiance, warren Geraghty has not only carried the mantle, but has done so under close scrutiny and with great regional flair.” honourable Mentions to C (“chef Quang dang is a magician in the kitchen”) and Vij’s (“a room that, remarkably, never fails to thrill”). chef of the year robertBelchamAn ego-free chef who’s making “some of the best food this city has seen” IT’S OFTEN said open kitchens work against cooks, the presence of customers distracting rather than inspiring. At Fuel’s front-row kitchen bar, co-owner and executive chef Robert Belcham artfully turned that myth around. There, in full view, he thrives. “I love everything about this chef,” a fellow judge confided, describing Belcham’s food as “some of the best this city has seen.” And some of the most interesting, too, with straightforward, unapologetic presentations of “the nasty bits”—brain, cheek, jowl, offal, bacon, loin, and cured whole leg, each sourced from the same pig and all plated during the same service. If it’s hard to imagine this champion of lardo and foie gras training at a vegetarian restaurant before taking up residence at False Creek’s sustainable-seafood-savvy C Restaurant and then opening his own room, it’s impossible to forget him dutifully doing bemused, stoic battle with vegan protesters during the dinner rush. “Fuel’s charm and ingredients of choice are entirely authentic,” a food writer pointed out. Our Chef of the Year shares in that authenticity. Witness his Everyman turn with buttermilk-fried chicken next to biscuits smothered in gravy. Protest that! Called “Vancouver’s practitioner of nose-to-tail eating,” Belcham, in his mid-30s, personifies the ascendancy of a new generation of Vancouver cooks. A giant of a man, colourfully tattooed and blessed with the quiet confidence that comes with studied ability, he’s earned the respect of his peers who applaud his knife skills, his affinity for local ingredients, and his unfailingly jovial manner on the line. In December, Belcham and his partners opened a second restaurant, the Italian-themed Campagnolo, to critical acclaim. (See New & Notable, page 114.) He’s a chef’s chef, “a total food dork” as one judge wrote, the kind who eschews ego in favour of mentoring and opts for honesty at the expense of pretence. His enthusiasm for his tough craft is exceeded only by the strength of character required to survive it. For that, and for the mark he’s making on the city’s food scene, we congratulate him. —Andrew Morrison Fuel1944W.FourthAve.,604-288-7905 m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 7 3 restaurant awards Best new restaurant LaQuercia 3689W.FourthAve 604-676-1007 Cibo 900SeymourSt. 604-602-9570 Voya 1177MelvilleSt. 604-639-8692 LaBrasserie 1091DavieSt. 604-568-6499 LesFauxBourgeois 663E.15thAve 604-873-9733 la QuerCia takes top prize for being “the perfect neighbourhood restaurant in the right place at the right time”—our judges loved the ever-evolving menu of italian classics and chef/owners lucais Syme and adam Pegg (ex-Parkside and Cioppino’s) for constructing “a room with heart and, more importantly, superlative food.” Silver to Cibo, where ex-river Café chef neil Taylor turns out plate after plate of intensely flavoured rustic northern italian fare. Voya nabs Bronze for Marc-andre Choquette’s small-plates prowess—“the impressive lineup is an unmistakable homage to his time helming the kitchen at lumière.” honourable Mentions to la Brasserie for addressing the west end’s need for a no-nonsense bistro (bonus points for the ridiculously low markup on Champagne) and to les Faux Bourgeois with its smart menu brimming with French classics in a room that truly buzzes. Best servIce west 2881GranvilleSt. 604-738-8938 Bishop’s 2183W.FourthAve. 604-738-2025►► 7 4 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 desIgn of the year Ping’sCaféHow to make a little go a long way FULL DISCLOSURE: Some of our judges for this category design pendant lighting. Rodney Graham was commissioned to produce the are good examples of introverted dining rooms, the Bronze winner and own restaurants, and so have their biases. Because they own large-scale painting adorning the back wall. The resulting minimalist is their extroverted sibling. t h e c a c t u s c l u b has long and design restaurants, however, they understand and respect the design is visually pleasing, warm, and inviting—it works. The room been the design leader when it comes to chain restaurants, and work it takes to put a project together, whether a 25-seat is proof that you don’t need big bucks to make a big splash. kudos to it for “upscaling” casual dining. At the new Burrard and takeout joint or a 6,000-squarefoot Temple of Hedonism. This Silver medallist v o ya is yin to Ping’s yang. Located in Dunsmuir location, architect Acton Ostry and an in-house design year’s Gold winner embodied all the qualities they deemed important in successful restaurant design. P i n g ’ s c a f É on Main Street considered location, food concept, and customer dynamic to achieve a holistic, branded concept. The street appearance is discreet, utilizing original “found” signage, creating a hole-in-the wall Yoshoku-style restaurant that pays homage to the previous Chinese-Canadian café. As so often in small-scale projects with a tight budget, ingenuity was key. The owners did much of the work themselves but collaborated with designer Omer Arbel on the abstract interior finishes and dynamic porcelain the Loden Hotel, it also looks inward, in a look-at-me way, with open-table planning organized under a canopy of glitzy crystal chandeliers. As the room’s in a hotel, the designers had to appeal to a broad clientele, and they’ve done so with a muted yet glamorous palette of pale blue, white, and black. With its lack of natural light, the room is more successful at night, when the well-layered lighting scheme really shines. Less successful is the adjacent lounge, where overly large furniture requires athleticism to make your way to a window seat. If the Gold and Silver winners team brought warmth and human scale to this large glass box with detailed, quality finishes. Further points for the original works by Andy Warhol, Sir Anthony Hopkins, and Michel Basquiat (but points deducted for the projection screen that descends from the ceiling to cover Basquiat’s bold work on game night). THANKS TO OUR JUDGING PANEL: JuliHodgson, Hodgson Design Associates; robertedmonds and Davidnicolay, Evoke International Design Inc.; Charlene rooke, editor-in-chief, Western Living magazine Ping’sCafé1944W.FourthAve.,604-288-7905 Lucas Finlay restaurant awards BluewaterCafe 1095HamiltonSt. 604-688-8078 IngredIent of the year Cioppino’s/enoteca 1133HamiltonSt. 604-688-7466 C 2-1600HoweSt. 604-681-1164 Value MaY BrinG diners in, but it’s service that brings them back. west holds Gold for its concentration on the little things: the delicately decanted wine, the petits fours that appear from nowhere, the carefully refolded napkin you find on returning from the washroom. John Bishop, this city’s consummate host, continues to instill his trademark grace throughout Bishop’s (Silver). Front-of-house, chefs, and sommeliers construct redoubtable service at Blue water (Bronze), and honourable Mentions go to the formal yet approachable Cioppino’s and C restaurant, where owner harry kambolis sets a high bar for knowledgeable precision. Best Bar / Lounge BacchusPianoLoungeatthe wedgewoodHotel 845HornbySt. 604-608-5319 Uva 900SeymourSt. 604-632-9560 Chambar 562BeattySt. 6048797119 SaltTastingroom 45BloodAlley 604-633-1912 Boneta 1W.CordovaSt. 604684-1844 The CiTY’S PoSh lounge scene has always been vibrant, but recessionistas are making these economical alternatives to fine dining all the more popular. 7 6 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 This year’s list is topped by Bacchus Piano lounge at the wedgewood hotel (Gold), where a good pour of scotch and a supple leather wingback can take you to a place where markets don’t crash. “This,” summed up one judge, “is where grownups go to play.” The intimate uva (Silver) is a favourite for by-the-glass wine selections (Sebastien le Goff being the hero behind the list). and noisy, sexy Chambar (Bronze) will always have a place so long as they’re pouring those blue fig martinis; the Belgian beer list, smartly presided over by on-the-ball servers, doesn’t hurt, either. honourable Mentions to down-to-earth Salt Tasting room and the loose-and-loud Boneta, where “most of the city’s seasoned liquor enthusiasts can be found.” Berkshirepork Best metro vancouver destInatIon FROM THE HOT DOG stand Japadog in front of the Sutton Place Hotel on Burrard to the tables at W. Fourth’s Fuel, the Berkshire swine (aka the “Rolls-Royce of pigs”) has found a home on dozens of ThePearTree Vancouver menus over the past couple of years. The product of humane raising without antibiotics, hormones, pens, or crates, local Berkshire pork is exquisitely LaBelleauberge marbled, the integrated fat loading the tender meat with flavours so clean that they bear little relation to the bland “other white meat” produced by factory farms. HartHouse In Japan it’s called Kurobuta, or “black pig”, and it’s often marketed as such in North America. Though commonly thought of as a singular breed in its own right, a SeaHarbour Kurobuta pig is actually a Berkshire pig (with or without the marketing lipstick). The semantics question stems from the 1800s, when British diplomats gave the Japanese several pigs as portly, delicious gifts. These were the most prized of the English heritage breed, and in Kagoshima Prefecture, the same bloodline has been maintained. The pig was later made infamous by George Orwell in his dystopian novel Animal Farm, in which the main villain, Napoleon, was a burly, “fierce-looking” Berkshire, thought by scholars to be a caricature of Stalin (“not much of a talker, but with a reputation for getting his own way”). While Berkshires can be extremely stubborn, jokes Dirk Keller, who maintains much of Vancouver’s supply at his Sloping Hill Farm in Qualicum Beach, “they are not mean at all.” Indeed, he deadpans, “any reference to a person as a ‘pig’ is an insult to pigs.”—Andrew Morrison 4120E.HastingsSt.(Burnaby) 604-299-2772 485648thAve.(Ladner) 604-946-7717 6664DeerLakeAve.(Burnaby) 604-298-4278 3711No.3Rd.(Richmond) 604-232-0816 globe@yVr 3111GrantMcConachieWay(Richmond) 604-248-3281 we’d walk on our knees to hope if we thought a brilliant meal awaited. all these rooms rewarded travel. Burnaby’s Pear Tree (Gold) sets imaginative fare (braised Peace river lamb shank with pear risotto) in a winsome room. la Belle auberge (Silver) wowed our judges for the unabashed old-school glory of thoughtful proteins knocking boots with endless butter and cream. hart house (Bronze) picked up its game acquiring edwyn kumar to personalize a smart carte. Sea harbour (especially for dungeness crab and squash in black bean hot pot) and Globe@ YVr took honourable Mentions. Joel Castillo ►► b e s t s e R v i c e ( c o n t ’ d ) restaurant awards g r e e n aw a r d Judges rhapsodized over the chicken liver and pork cheek pappardelle at La Quercia, Best New Restaurant and Best Casual Italian robClark Best regIonaL Bishop’s 2183W.FourthAve. 604-738-2025 C 2-1600HoweSt. 604-681-1164 root vegetables, little-known artisanal cheeses, intriguing herbs and flowers. at C (Silver), visionary rob Clark and playful Quang dang turn dishes into regional short stories. raincity Grill (Bronze) continues its love affair with the city through farm-totable food and a skillful wine list; chef Peter robertson’s tasting menus are west Coast 101. Fuel’s robert Belcham and Chow’s JC Poirier (honourable Mentions) revel in the bounty of our local farms and waters. Best smaLL pLates raincitygrill 1193DenmanSt. 604-685-7337 Fuel 1944W.FourthAve 604-288-7905 Cru 1459W.Broadway 604-677-4111 Chow Bin941/Bin942 3121GranvilleSt. 604-608-2469 leT uS now PraiSe the bloodhound chefs among us. andrea Carlson of Bishop’s (Gold) elevates the overlooked: obscure 7 8 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 941DavieSt.,604-734-9421 1521W.Broadway,604-683-1246 Kingyo 871DenmanSt. 604-608-1677►► Few chefs have had more to do with crafting Vancouver’s reputation as an international food city than Robert Clark, champion of local, sustainable seafood and this year’s Green Award recipient. Clark, in his mid 40s, was cofounder of The Chefs Table Society of BC and the driving force behind both the creation of its annual Spot Prawn Festival and of the Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program. Through these outlets he works tirelessly to make diners and chefs more aware of the impact they have on the world’s oceans through the seafood choices they make every day. As executive chef of C Restaurant, Raincity Grill, and Nu (and a past Vancouver magazine Chef of the Year), he demonstrates that excellence and conscientiousness in cooking aren’t mutually exclusive. Over the last year he further cemented his unofficial position as the ambassador of our food and restaurant scene. He secured for B.C. the 2010 Canadian Chefs Congress, was recognized as Newsmaker of the Year by the Canadian Association of Food Services Professionals, and will represent the province later this month at the National Arts Centre’s BC Scene festival in Ottawa. For all his professional accomplishments, he’s a humble, straightforward, burly fellow who picks his words with careful economy, an unpretentious sort just as at home with fishermen and farmers as he is with diners and dignitaries. Together with his charming (and equally visionary) employer, restaurateur Harry Kambolis—a leader in encouraging and adopting ecofriendly practices in his rooms—Clark has played a dominant role in making our restaurant trade a model for other cities to follow.—Andrew Morrison From left: Shannon Mendes; Joel Castillo eXeCUTIVeCHeFC, Nu, and Raincity Grill restaurant awards ►► b e s t s M a l l P l at e s ( c o n t ’ d ) nu ►► b e s t f o R M a l i ta l i a n ( c o n t ’ d ) Bartender of the year Cibo 1661GranvilleSt. 604-646-4668 Tapastree a CaTeGorY riFe with great rooms: Cioppino’s (Gold) leads the way with hands-on chef/proprietor Pino Posteraro in full command of a stellar menu and an energized but refined ambiance. il Giardino takes Silver, thanks to what one judge called its “resurgent kitchen” and its deep wine list. la Terrazza (Bronze), which continues to refine a sometimes uneven menu, also boasts a wonderful list. CinCin is consistently good, if geared more toward the tourist trade, and Cibo nicely picks up on our city’s love affair with italian cooking. 1829RobsonSt. 604-606-4680 The BinS haVe dominated this category for years, but Cru (Gold) finally mixed things up: “They’ve got the most inventive small plates in the city,” said one judge. “Sleek, sexy, and sophisticated.” Try the duck confit robed in bacon if you need convincing. we always love noshing on beef wellington at Bin 941 & 942 (Silver), but our judges were looking for a menu shakeup. Meanwhile, kingyo (Bronze) delivers an ebi mayo that foodies still buzz about. The sleek nu (now with comfortable chairs!) and unsung Tapastree share the honorable Mention. Cioppino’s/enoteca 1133HamiltonSt. 604-688-7466 JoshPapeThe art of “letting booze talk” aS ParT oF the team that brought us Chambar in 2004, Josh Pape has evolved alongside Vancouver’s cocktail culture. in its first year, the Beatty Street restaurant’s bar manager, Mark Brand, won our first-ever nod for Bartender of the Year. now it’s Pape’s turn. his approach to mixing a drink is straightforward: “keep it simple,” he says, “and let the booze talk. use only good ingredients and let them do the job.” look for him behind the wood with Brand at their new restaurant and bar, The diamond, opening TheDiamond 6PowellSt. shortly.—AndrewMorrison 1382HornbySt. 604-669-2422 LaTerrazza 1088CambieSt. 604-899-4449 CinCin 1154RobsonSt. 604-688-7338►► remember yourFirst gooseberry? A raspberry-coulis splatter appears beside Lesley Stowe’s Death by Chocolate pâté Rim shots! (diced parsley, pepper, & carrot garnish) Carved zucchini & radishes Twentyyearsofdining innovations:good&bad by chRis gonzalez 8 2 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 1988 Coffee! Restaurants get hip to new beans and roasts Stainless steel (keeps a shine, cheaper than silver) 3689W.FourthAve 604-676-1007 217CarrallSt. 604-688-9779 Senova 4025MacDonaldSt. 604-730-6988 1LonsdaleAve.(NorthVan) 604-924-4444 osterianapoli 1660RenfrewSt. 604-255-6441 TrattoriaItalianKitchen 1850W.FourthAve. 604-732-1441 The icewine cometh Cape gooseberries sprout on every dessert plate in town 1993 Carpaccio fever 1864W.57thAve. 604-266-8643 ThiS CaTeGorY ShelTerS unusual delights. Chambar (Gold) delivers welcome eastern Mediterranean and african alternatives to Pacific rim ennui. Three decades in, José and Paco rivas at la Bodega (Silver) still turn heads with kidneys, blood sausage, and offal. The new irish heather (Bronze) is one more reason to celebrate one-man-industry Sean heather; leitao (roast suckling pig) Thursdays make us treasure Senova. Okanagan wines hit menus after Mission Hill wins Gold for its 1992 Chardonnay Goodbye, butter. Hello, oil and balsamic Chipotle, chipotle, chipotle! 1277HoweSt. 604-684-8814 LaBuca Salt Spring Island lamb 562BeattySt. 604-879-7119 TheIrishHeather/ ShebeenwhiskeyHouse gustodiQuattro Left: Mark Maryanovich Ilgiardino Chambar LaQuercia Best other european LaBodega Best casuaL ItaLIan Best formaL ItaLIan 900SeymourSt. 604-602-9570 SiMPliCiTY winS the day. la Quercia (Gold), low-key and intimate, made an instant name for itself this year with brilliant execution. Silver winner la Buca also turns out unfailingly excellent fare in modest surroundings. Gusto di Quattro (Bronze) nails it in north Van, and osteria napoli punches well above its weight on the east Side. italian kitchen fills out a roster that give lovers of trattoria-style italian food plenty to cheer about. Tapas, tapas everywhere Rob Feenie brings square plates to Lumière (thank you, Charlie Trotter and Daniel Boulud) Over-the-top washroom design 1998 m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 8 3 restaurant awards Best casuaL french Best formaL french LeCrocodile Pied-à-Terre 100-909BurrardSt. 604-669-4298 Bacchusrestaurant atwedgewoodHotel 845HornbySt. 604-608-5319 485648thAve.(Ladner) 604-946-7717 1616AlberniSt. 604-685-3924 remember? iF ConSiSTenCY iS a great chef’s hallmark, then Michel Jacob of le Crocodile (Gold) is at the pinnacle of Vancouver haute cuisine. Bacchus’s lee Parsons (Silver) raises local ingredients to the sublime (sweet corn velouté with chive chantilly and luxurious risottos studded with golden chantrelles and sweet peas)—the relais & Châteaux designation also persuades. Pretend you’re driving to Grandmère’s in the country and drop into ladner to Bruno Marti’s la Belle auberge (Bronze) for fresh, imaginatively prepared dishes that range from the ridiculous (fois gras with plum compote) to the transcendent (wild boar with morel sauce). honourable Mentions go to lushly romantic le Gavroche and cosy, gracious Five Sails. The prix-fixe vision of Pied-à-Terre helped it get the nod as Best Casual French Gold leaf gilds consommés and desserts Wine goes ABC: anything but Chardonnay Heirloom tomatoes, courtesy Stoney Paradise Farms 8 4 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 New buzzword: organic The (affordable) black summer truffle adorns almost everything Short ribs go from throwaway to luxe Duck duos, lamb trios 2004 2153W.FourthAve. 604-731-5020 HidekazuTojo MistralBistro HeaDCHeF/ownerTojo’s Anyone who first sits across the bar from 2585W.Broadway 604-733-0046 the diminutive, bell-shaped Hidekazu Tojo comes away knowing they’ve had a unTarniShed BY the Cambie Street construction outside, Pied-à-Terre (Gold) maintained its hold this year. andrey durbach’s 34-seat gem is a neighborhood haunt perfect for refined prix-fixe lunches or late-night lingering over French vino that anticipates the happy Cambie life to come. west Van’s la régalade (Silver) kept its place, too, by keeping up with our desire for basic country dishes: pork sirloin with sautéed potatoes and apples keeps locals from bothering with the lion’s Gate Bridge. with his deft, Japanese-influenced touch, don letendre has put his own spin on French cuisine at elixir (Bronze). his sablefish with braised daikon and trufflescented dashi is a knockout. honourable Mentions go to Bistro Pastis (an honest room dishing succulent rabbit and lamb) and the intimate Mistral Bistro. Meet the vegetable purée Meatballs swoosh Allô bistros, allô moules frites! Sideways says: Pinot Noir, yes. The Atkins Diet says: starch, no Left photo: Shannon Mendes; Right illustration: Joel Castillo 410-999CanadaPlace 604-844-2855 1999 350DavieSt. 604-642-0557 BistroPastis FiveSails 103-2232MarineDr.(WestVan) 604-921-2228 elixirattheopus Legavroche 3369CambieSt. 604-873-3131 Larégalade LaBelleauberge LIfetIme achIevement aw a r d Invasion of the New York chefs Sustainability. The 100 Mile Diet. Ocean Wise Salt cries: charcuterie! life-changing gustatory experience. Plates of exquisitely delicate sushi mosaics, each a reinvention of a classic, come fast and furious. “Always consistent in his execution, he can make a simple plate look as beautiful as it tastes,” said one judge. “He told me, ‘Japanese chefs don’t need a food stylist,’ and when our plates came out, I had to agree.” He works magic on the stovetop, too: witness his smoked black cod in a slightly sweet fish broth, gossamer tempura-battered albacore tuna, and Dungeness crab cakes. Born in Kagoshim, in 1950, Tojo learned to cook in Osaka. At 21 he came to Vancouver, where he found a place at Jinya, then the city’s premier Japanese establishment. In 1988 he opened his room at 777 W. Broadway, moving to 1133 W. Broadway two years ago. “He singlehandedly brought not only sushi but an awareness of Japanese cuisine to the city,” says Vikram Vij, who did the same for Indian cuisine. “Tojo paved the way for all great sushi chefs in town.” Not to say diligence doesn’t leave room for mischievousness. “There’s always a funny story to tell after a night with Tojo,” says Vij. “He’ll be grabbing or pinching you somewhere he’s not supposed to, and it’s always like, ‘Tojo, c’mon, we’re in the public eye.’ He doesn’t care. He does his own thing.” His own thing includes 2009 Sliders/mini burgers sweeping the Best Japanese category since it was introduced in 1992. Which makes him the incontrovertible choice for this year’s Lifetime Achievement Award. m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 8 5 restaurant awards Best seafood ►► b e s t f o R M a l J a Pa n e s e ( c o n t ’ d ) front of house Miku BluewaterCafe en 1095HamiltonSt. 604-688-8078 C 1133W.Broadway 604-872-8050 Coast 1257HamiltonSt. 604-685-5010 goFish 1505W.FirstAve. 604-730-5040 CoMPeTiTion iS FierCe in a town where pale salmon takes on an immoral stink. happily, this produces seafood temples we all can worship at. Blue water Cafe (Gold) delivers an embarrassment of oyster selections, plus immaculate sushi by Yoshi Tabo. Take your party into the 72-person private wine room and order three-tier towers of naked shellfish. See and be seen on the waterfront patio at C (Silver), where executive chef robert Clark has championed sustainable seafood for years. and perennial sushi favourite Tojo’s (Bronze) continues to draw celeb guests and ordinary souls who happen to know what’s best. honourable Mentions to Coast, for giving Yaletown a communal table where they can nosh on prawns, and that happy shack Go Fish (the opposite of a Yaletown joint), where couples park themselves on the seawall and poke through oyster po’boys and battered fish next to the boat that brought them in. Best formaL japanese Tojo’s 1133W.Broadway 604-872-8050 rawBaratBluewaterCafe 1095HamiltonSt. 604-688-8078►► 8 6 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 PremierCrew Over 20 years, great servers become institutions Joe Fortes maitre d’ (and B.C. restaurant hall of Fame inductee) Frenchygagne➊has a passion for excellent service, which is why one customer gave him a Cadillac el dorado as a Christmas gift. For Gagne, the real reward is the opportunity to turn someone’s crummy day around. andreaVescovi ➋ our Sommelier of the Year (as chosen by the international Sommelier Guild) is wine director at Blue water Cafe. Born into an italian family of chefs and vintners, he grew up steeped in the culture of wine and food. he loves developing wine cellars and “bringing joy and goodwill to the dinner table.” in 1972, 21-year-old BonnieFong ➌ started as a busboy at hy’s encore. he never left. well into his fourth decade, he’s served everyone from robin williams to ronald reagan’s son. “For me,” he says, “walking into hy’s is like coming home.” after working with Pino Posteraro in Tuscany, MassimoPiscopo➍became the floor manager at Cioppino’s when it opened. For him, it’s the customers who make things fresh and exciting—the best thing about his job is “the constant contact with people, which i think keeps you alive.” when she was 25, Lidiaranallo ➎ left a bank job to help husband Claudio run la Piazza dario. She learned the ropes from her brotherin-law, a veteran server, and after 20 years of doing every job in the room she says her toughest challenge is finding staff who get that, in good times and bad, “you must go out and do your best.” Pierre rosso (notshown), a 26-year veteran of service at le Crocodile, says: “human nature always surprises me. how we can be so sweet at times and so crazy at other times?” Best casuaL japanese Kingyo 871DenmanSt. 604-608-1677 ZestJapaneseCuisine 2775W.16thAve. 604-731-9378 Lime 1130CommercialDr. 604-215-1130 yuji’sJapaneseTapas 2059W.FourthAve. 604-734-4990 HapaIzakaya Joel Castillo 4422W.10thAve. 604-730-0330 ToJo (Gold) continues to redefine Japanese food in Vancouver, with a firm grasp of seasonality and local ingredients. (See lifetime achievement award, page 85.) Yoshi Tabo’s offerings at the raw Bar (Silver) “fit seamlessly into Blue water’s menu in a way that makes you forget that the raw fish here is some of the best in the city,” said one judge. newcomer Miku shakes up the Japanese scene in Vancouver with a scorched approach to sushi (otherwise known as aburi-style). “when Seigo-san [the Japanese owner] visits,” advised one judge, “go. and blow the budget on the omakase dinner.” honourable Mention to en for creative fusing of italian and Japanese techniques. 2-1600HoweSt. 604-681-1164 Tojo’s 1055W.HastingsSt. 604-568-3900 1516YewSt.,604-738-4272 1479RobsonSt.,604-689-4272 TiGhT CoMPeTiTion in a category where hundreds of sushi joints and plenty of izakayas clamour for top honours. Gold to kingyo where “koji zenimaru and his raucous crew offer a playful take on Japanese small plates. exuberance and a wild sense of fun are grounded in tight techniques.” at zest (Silver), a serene and elegant room offers a modern backdrop for Yoshi Maniwa’s take on traditional Japanese dishes like soba crab rolls, a nori-wrapped duo of crisped buckwheat noodles and crab meat. at lime (Bronze) there’s some serious culinary skill behind the sushi bar with executive chef Masaaki kudo, formerly of Tojo’s and Blue water Cafe’s raw Bar, at the helm. “First-class sushi and sashimi finally arrives on the drive,” said one judge. honourable Mentions to Yuji’s for creative sushi rolls like the kamonegi with grilled duck breast and black sesame seeds, and hapa for introducing the city to the izakaya experience. Best formaL chInese Kirin 102-1166AlberniSt. 604-682-8833 SeaHarbour 3711No.3Rd.(Richmond) 604-232-0816 SunSuiwah 102-4940No.3Rd.(Richmond) 604-273-8208 redStar 8298GranvilleSt. 604-261-8389 Shanghairiver 110-7831WestminsterHwy.(Richmond) 604-233-8885 Gold winner kirin manages to get all the elements just right: top-notch food, great service, and smart menus. “The owners say that their goal is not to be the best hong kong-style Chinese restaurant but the best Vancouverstyle Chinese restaurant,” reported one judge—“and they’ve succeeded.” Sea harbour (Silver) boasts the perfect mix of innovation and classic technique, best seen in its crab and kabocha squash hot pot. The richmond location of Sun Sui wah remains a bastion of local ingredients cooked with classic Cantonese and hong kong techniques. m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 8 7 restaurant awards t h e g o d fa t h e r its king crab promotion remains the best of the bunch, despite competition from all over the lower Mainland (not to mention China and hong kong). red Star gets an honourable Mention for spectacular roasted meats (our judges loved the whole roasted suckling pig), as does Shanghai river for housemade Shanghainese classics. allintheFamily Umberto Menghi is a founding father of our haute cuisine, having mentored many of the chefs whose rooms— and whose own protégés —have come to embody the city’s fine dining John Bishop Bishop’s Jeff Van Geest, Diva at the Met Michael Allemaier, Terrace at Mission Hill Best casuaL chInese Scott Kidd, Lift James Walt, Araxi Geoff Kitt, Sooke Harbour House Chen’sShanghai Gennaro Iorio, La Terrazza Dino Renaerts, Diva at the Met KoonBoSeafood Carol Chow, Gusto di Quattro Vikram Vij, Vij’s Pino Posteraro Cioppino’s Sean Riley, Sanafir Andrey Durbach Parkside/ La Buca/ Pied-à-Terre Barbara-jo McIntosh, Books to Cooks Geoff Lundholm, Moustache Café Rob Feenie Feenie’s/ Lumière/ Cactus Club Cafe Don Letendre, Elixir Stefan Mahon & John Blakely, Bistro Pastis Ned Bell, Cabana Grille JC Poirier, Chow Sean Sylvestre, The Beach House David Hawksworth West/Hawksworth Thierry Busset & Mark Perrier, CinCin 8 8 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 Jeremie Bastien, Boneta Colleen McLean, Irish Heather Kitchen Confidential For a video of chefs spilling secrets and telling tales, visit Videos.vanmag.com Marc-Andre Choquette, Voya Romy Prasad, So.Cial Mario Enero, La Rua Cam & Allison McKinnon, Greedy Pig 6236FraserSt. 604-324-8855 Shanghaiwonderful Umberto Menghi: Amanda Skuse; Andrey Durbach: Chris Mason Stearns Michel Jacob Le Crocodile 4850ImperialSt.(Burnaby) 604-437-0828 HoyuenKee Adam Pegg & Lucais Syme, La Quercia Quang Dang, C Restaurant 5682FraserSt. 604-323-1218 alvingarden John Corsi, Pied-à-Terre Dennis Peckham, Hart House 8095ParkRd.(Richmond) 604-304-8288 110-8380LansdowneRd.(Richmond) 604-278-8829 The ineViTaBle waiT for a lunchtime table is a small price to pay for the lower Mainland’s best xiao long bao (soup buns), freshly made to order and bursting with clean rich broth at Chen’s Shanghai (Gold). don’t be fooled by the nondescript minimall location of koon Bo Seafood (Silver); large families pack in nightly for well-executed Cantonese comfort food. house-made pickles brighten a stir-fry of beef and young ginger as well as the hand-shredded chicken salad with strands of jellyfish and crispy wonton skins. at alvin Garden (Bronze), fiery hunan fare, a flavour profile marked by the bright heat of Szechuan peppercorns, punches through the damp Vancouver weather to warm the soul. honourable Mentions to ho Yuen kee for the out-of-sight crab dishes and Shanghai wonderful for its deeply authentic Shanghainese cooking. m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 8 9 restaurant awards Best IndIan Best dIm sum Kirin 102-1166AlberniSt. 604-682-8833 Vij’s 1480W.11thAve. 604-736-6664 gingeri rangoli 323-5300No.3Rd.(Richmond) 604-278-6006 1488W.11thAve. 604-736-5711 SunSuiwah ashianaTandoori 102-4940No.3Rd.(Richmond) 604-273-8208 440Kingsway 604-874-5060 ne grandHonourHotPot ChutneyVilla 147E.Broadway 604-872-2228 1905W.Broadway 604-736-8180 5668GranvilleSt. 604-263-3983 God iS in the details, and kirin earns Gold for seasonal changes to incorporate the freshest ingredients; Silver goes to Gingeri for simple dishes sharply executed. Travel to the richmond location of Sun Sui wah (Bronze) for excellent service, and to Grand honour (honourable Mention) to rub shoulders with wellheeled hong kong expats. accomplished room up another notch with new dishes like beef short ribs in cinnamon and red wine curry; it may not be traditional indian, but it’s the heart of our indian culinary experience. next door, rangoli (Silver) dishes indisputable value for eating in (barring those pinchy chairs) and—a godsend—grab-and-go. ashiana Tandoori (Bronze) continues to excel; rick and Sonia Takhar remain two of the warmest hosts in the business. honourable Mentions go to eclectic, innovative Chutney Villa and to akbar’s own, currying favour with heavy hits of flavour at every turn. Best Korean w Ca Te g r av e ya r d s of gastronomy go SuicideLocations ry Where only the daring would open a restaurant Hanwoori akbar’sown VanCouVer oFFerS an excellent range of convincing alternatives for the nights you can’t get a table at Vij’s. Speaking of Vij’s (Gold), Vikram and Meeru dhalwala kicked a ridiculously 5740ImperialSt.(Burnaby) 604-439-0815 1355HornByST. Currently: nothing. In 2006, Rare revamped Bis Moreno into a more inviting room, with cooking as mature as it was young. Chef de cuisine Colleen McClean led a small, all-female, lab-like kitchen reflecting the best of what was locally available. It lasted 25 months, then went the way of… 2 0 0 3 Bis Moreno 2 0 0 2 Mr. Greek Taverna (never opened) 2 0 0 1 Zinfandel’s 1 9 9 8 Etoile 1 9 8 1 Massimo Ristorante Italiano 1 9 7 9 La Maisonette JangMoJib 1719RobsonSt.(multiplelocations) 604-642-0712 Insadong 301-403NorthRd.(Coquitlam) 604-936-3778 ChoSun 3486Kingsway 604-434-1222 9 0 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 1265/1269HaMILTonST. Pinky’s opened at 1265 in 2008. Pink ponyskin barstools, tufted leather banquettes, and flocked wallpaper screamed next-gen steakhouse. It closed a year later. Next door, Charm Modern Thai’s red walls, gilded mirrors, and plush banquettes are meant to banish memories of… 2 0 0 7 Flite 2 0 0 7 Lucky Diner 2 0 0 6 Diner 2 0 0 5 LK Dining Lounge Left: Shannon Mendes; This page: Jenny Reed On-point seasoning secured Best Other Asian for Kerrisdale’s Spice Islands Indonesian Make The Trek to Burnaby’s hanwoori (Gold) for the bold, soothing flavours of korean comfort food. Soups like the rich beef rib (kalbi tang) are a particular strength on the menu; authentic grilled ribs and spicy chicken are also excellent. Jang Mo Jib (Silver) offers classic korean-style dining and l.a.-style kalbi; grilled dumplings and seafood pancakes are perfect for late-night snacking. at insadong (Bronze), located at the nexus of Coquitlam’s korean shopping and dining district, find bubbling hot pots like spicy gojuchang-based soondooboo jigae (creamy silken tofu and kimchi in a rich seafood broth) and steamed pork belly served with napa cabbage and oysterspiked kimchi. loud, lively chatter is the backdrop at Cho Sun (honourable Mention), where large groups of korean expats and like-minded carnivores gather for generous portions and survival-of-thefittest-style eating. 1809w.FIrSTaVe. Mon Bella Ristorante’s casual new “bistoria” (opened in November) breathes new life into a revolving space. Can former Rare chef Brian Fowke’s delightful hodgepodge of a menu, mostly French and Italian comfort foods on small plates, forestall the fate that awaited… 2 0 0 7 Industry 2 0 0 4 Vintropolis 2 0 0 1 Tarsus 1 9 9 9 Sienna 1 9 9 2 Carpaccio’s m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 9 1 restaurant awards Cobre scooped Best of the Americas with its zesty pan-Hispanic food and ace drinks ne Best thai ne w c at e go ry Salathai 3364 Cambie St., 604-875-6999 102-888 Burrard St., 604-683-7999 Montri’s Thai 3629 W. Broadway 604-738-9888 Sawasdee Thai 4250 Main St. 604-876-4030 Chilli House Thai Bistro 1018 Beach Ave. 604-685-8989 The Burrard Street location of Salathai (Gold) is frequented by visiting celebrities and even the Thai royal family, but it’s the homey, family-style atmosphere of the Cambie Street location that has been popular with locals for over 9 2 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 20 years. The pungent sweetness of Thai basil elevates pad see-iew—a simple stir fry of rice noodles with your choice of meat—beyond the pedestrian. Tapioca pudding, served with coconut milk and chunks of banana and jackfruit, “both warms the heart and pleases the palate,” said one judge. Montri’s Thai Restaurant (Silver) sometimes suffers from inconsistency now that its namesake chef is no longer at the helm. “But,” offers one judge, “there are gems to be had when the kitchen is firing on all cylinders. Yum-nua is a zesty salad of grilled beef tossed in a lime dressing with chilies, tomato, lettuce, onion, and mint. And the pad Thai borders on the sublime…if you order it on the right day.” At Vancouver’s first Thai restaurant, Sawasdee (Bronze), Busaba Poonpem’s larb gai, a delicious salad of minced chicken tossed with cilantro, lime juice, toasted rice, and a generous dose of chili, is as authentic as it gets. Honourable Mention to Chilli House Thai Bistro, “a waterfront jewel,” said one judge, “that sparkles with authentic Thai delicacies and spectacular views of False Creek.” Best vietnamese w c at e go ry Phnom Penh 244 E. Georgia St. 604-734-8898 Pho Tan Vietnamese 4598 Main St 604-873-3345 Pho Thai Hoa 1625 Kingsway 604-873-2348 Thai Son 373 E. Broadway 604-875-6436 Vancouver Vietnamese 4136 Main St. 604-872-3455 Perennial winner Phnom Penh (Gold) is still a cult favourite among lo- restaurant awards Best other asIan SpiceIslandsIndonesian 3592W.41stAve. 604-266-7355 CaféKathmandu 2779CommercialDr. 604-879-9909 BananaLeaf 820W.Broadway,604-731-6333 1096DenmanSt.,604-683-3333 3005W.Broadway,604-734-3005 wildrice 117W.PenderSt. 604-642-2882 azia 990SmitheSt. 604-682-8622 aT kerriSdale’S Spice islands (Gold) subtle indonesian spicing reaches new heights with careful shadings of cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, and chili. The menu at Café kathmandu (Silver) reflects nepal’s influences from neighbouring China, india, and Tibet, but nepalese food is “lighter, brighter, and more restrained 9 4 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 t h e o L d fa I t h f u L s yesterdayonceMore Five rooms that just say no to passing fancy williamTell 765BeattySt.,604-688-3504 o P e n e d 1964 o n t h e M e n u French onion soup, escargots Burgundy t h e c o R n e R ta b l e The quietest room in town nurtures intimacy. our couple starts with dubonnays over caesar salad, then shares Châteaubriand with a rich red. Tableside service continues with flaming crêpes Suzette and Café diablos for two. Legavroche1616AlberniSt.,604-685-3924 1979 o n t h e M e n u rack of lamb c o R n e R ta b l e dad’s been coming here since he was a kid himself. The family of four is dining early to catch a show; owner Manny Ferreira suggests they return for “Madame’s” lili Cake afterwards. oPened TheCannery 2205CommissionerSt.,604-254-9606 o P e n e d 1971 o n the Salmon wellington, chocolate Sinn Cake c o R n e R ta b l e it’s Grandpa’s 70th. The little ones are having pasta alfredo, their parents are learning about Café de Paris sauce. There’s house-made birthday cake, and specialty coffees for the grownups. Menu PhnomPenh244E.GeorgiaSt.,604-734-8898 o P e n e d 1985 o n t h e M e n u “none cancelled, we only grow!” c o R n e R ta b l e an asian quartet comes in late. Papaya salad, deep-fried garlic squid, beef curry, noodles, lotus root. Tsing Taos and black bean ice crush to drink, and durian sticky rice to finish. JoeFortesSeafood&ChopHouse 777ThurlowSt.,604-669-1940o P e n e d 1985 o n t h e M e n u Cobb salad, cioppino t h e c o R n e R ta b l e Two commercial realtors stop in for happy hour. The pianist plays “The Girl From ipanema.” Bob Skinner, resident shucker since day one, sets up an oyster feast. The William Tell’s classic steak tartar: it’s seasoned tableside and served, egg-topped, with toast points Courtesy The William Tell cal foodies for its dynamic duo of lemonpepper squid and chicken wings. Butter beef is a meat lover’s delight: tissue-thin slices of barely seared beef dressed with cilantro, garlic chips, and a limey nuoc mam sauce. Service at family-run Pho Tan Vietnamese restaurant (Silver) is earnest and welcoming, and, as one judge noted, “the understated atmosphere is a welcome respite from garish fluorescent and neon lighting so common in Vietnamese restaurants.” Come after 3 p.m. and order the banh xeo: a popular street snack in southern Vietnam, it sees bean sprouts and seafood wrapped in a turmeric-laced rice-flour crêpe studded with shrimp and scallions. a change in ownership brought a much-needed face-lift to Pho Thai hoa (Bronze). house special pho dac biet is a slurptastic carnivore’s delight: a jumble of fatty brisket, soft tendon, tripe, and meatballs with noodles in light, clean broth. honourable Mentions go to Thai Son and Vancouver Vietnamese for outstanding pho. restaurant awards than that of its neighbours. Go for the bhatmaas,” suggested one judge. “It’s a surprise for the palate: crunchy toasted soybeans fried with minced ginger, garlic, and chilies, and tossed with coriander.” Banana Leaf wins Bronze for the sambal green beans, beef rendang, and black pepper Dungeness crab—all must-orders. Wild Rice’s invitingly decorated room (Honourable Mention) is the perfect venue for “the smartly crafted dishes that balance traditional Chinese cooking with modern sensibilities and easy-to-down cocktails vivid with ginger infusions, lychee juiciness, and lip-smacking tamarind.” Azia also earns Honourable Mention for beautifully presented dishes in a dramatic, modern room. Best of the Americas Cobre 52 Powell St. 604-669-2396 are served in traditional El Salvadorean style with chimol (cooked salsa) and curtido (pickled cabbage salad). Doña Cata (Bronze) is a similarly unassuming mom-and-pop room, churning out deliciously authentic Mexican fare like spiced al pastor tacos and enchiladas. A range of flavours from across Central and South America is on offer at Baru Latino (Honourable Mention), and well-executed dishes and a warm Caribbean vibe makes Lolita’s (Honourable Mention) a great (if raucous) place to while away an evening. Best STEAKHOUSE/ chops Gotham Steakhouse Morton’s The Steakhouse 750 W. Cordova St. 604-915-5105 Hy’s Encore 2062 Commercial Dr. 604-879-2600 637 Hornby St. 604-683-7671 Doña Cata Hamilton Street Grill 5076 Victoria Dr. 604-436-2232 1009 Hamilton St. 604-331-1511 Baru Latino Pinkys Steakhouse 2535 Alma St. 604-222-9171 1326 Davie St. 604-696-9996 Cuban-Brazilian-Mexican restaurant Cobre (Gold) grabbed the top spot from two-time winner Doña Cata thanks to a combination of zesty dishes (like tamale sliders and chicken taquitos with homemade guacamole), inspired cocktails, and solid service in a polished room. If Cobre represents the sleek and sexy Latin restaurant, then Rinconcito Salvadoreño (Silver) is its counterpart: an inconspicuous spot on Commercial. Diners stream in nightly for the city’s best handmade pupusas: thick corn tortillas topped with cheese, beans, pork, or all three Best bbq Memphis Blues 1873 W. Fourth Ave. 604-732-6769 The king of steakhouses does it again. A six-time winner, the opulent Gotham (Gold) serves Porterhouses and filets cooked to perfection. Consistency is the hallmark of Mortons (Silver), and its aged USDA Prime is unmatched. At Hy’s (Bronze), 22-ounce slabs of beef and steak tartare recall the golden age of dining; as one judge said, “It’s like hearing an old Sinatra tune you haven’t heard in years and can’t get enough of.” Looking for something less formal? A laid-back atmosphere and quality certified Angus steaks make Hamilton Street Grill (Honourable Mention) the ideal neighbourhood steakhouse, and femalefocused Pinkys (Honourable Mention) serves manageable portions in a trendy but casual Cactus Club-style room. 1342 Commercial Dr. 604-215-2599 1465 W. Broadway 604-738-6806 1629 Lonsdale Ave. (North Van) 604-929-3699 Dix BBQ & Brewery 871 Beatty St. 604-682-2739 Migz BBQ on Broadway 2884 W. Broadway 604-733-3002 Bronco Belle BBQ 615 Seymour St. 604-605-8282 Rinconcito Salvadoreño Lolita’s 9 6 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 restaurant awards 4567 Lougheed Hwy (Burnaby) 604-299-7993 Succulent rib Meat falls right off the bone, and a simple pulled pork sandwich was enough to send one of our judges “floating out of the room” at Memphis Blues (Gold), where the meat is always tender and sides like cornbread, beans, and slaw come supersized. A commendable beer list and over a dozen smokedmeat sandwiches and burgers to choose from make Dix BBQ & Brewery (Silver) the ultimate pre-gameat-GM-Place hangout. Your best bet at Migz BBQ on Broadway (Bronze) is the Pig Out Platter: three meat and two side dishes are meant to feed three, but you’ll need a couple extra friends to help. On a budget? Bronco Belle BBQ (Honourable Mention) in Brentwood Town Centre serves up big helpings of Texas-style meat for pocket change. Best CASUAL CHAIN Cactus Club Cafe 588 Burrard St. (multiple locations) 604-682-0933 Earls 905 Hornby St. (multiple locations) 604-682-6700 ►► m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 9 9 restaurant awards ►► b e s t c a s u a l c h a i n ( c o n t ’ d ) Joeys 507 Burrard St. (multiple locations) 604-915-5639 The Keg 742 Thurlow St. (multiple locations) 604-685-4388 Milestones Grill + Bar 1109 Hamilton St. (multiple locations) 604-684-9111 Butternut squash ravioli with sage butter, tuna tataki with yuzu vinaigrette, and barbecue duck clubhouse on pecan loaf—all signature dishes by star chef Rob Feenie—have taken Cactus Club’s (Gold) menu to new heights. As our judges put it, this fun, lively chain dominates the category, pushes culinary boundaries, and redefines the term “casual dining.” Earls (Silver), the chain that inspired the category, still offers “some of the most consistent eats in its class,” one judge commented. The grilled prawn tacos are a must, and the wine list has some of the city’s best-priced bottles. Joeys (Bronze) is all about stellar drink specials, lavish décor, and attractive staff—and if those aren’t enough, a diverse menu offers something for everyone. The second-floor patio at the Granville and Broadway location is prime for people-watching come summer. The Keg (Honourable Mention) is favoured for consistency, smooth service, and, of course, tasty steaks, while Milestone’s (Honourable Mention) scores points for its solid brunch. Best NORTH SHORE La Régalade 103-2232 Marine Dr. (West Van) 604-921-2228 Fraîche 2-2240 Chippendale Rd. (West Van) 604-925-7595 Gusto di Quattro 1 Lonsdale Ave. (North Van) 604-924-4444 ►► m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 1 0 1 restaurant awards ►► b e s t NO R TH SHO R E ( c o n t ’ d ) The Beach House 150 25th St. (West Van) 604-922-1414 The Observatory 6400 Nancy Greene Way on Grouse Mountain 604-998-5045 Alain Rayé’s La Régalade (Gold) is the perpetual winner here for good reason: his fresh ingredients and traditional French cuisine entice not only Shore residents but downtown diners who brave bridge traffic for entrées like the leg of lamb for two, served in a Dutch oven. High on the hilltop, Fraîche (Silver) focuses on seasonal cuisine and, as one judge put it, has “food that manages to match the spectacular location.” At the foot of Lonsdale, Gusto di Quattro (Bronze) excels at pasta. Honourable Mentions go to The Beach House for well-executed seafood and The Observatory for regional cuisine in a stunning setting. Best PRODUCER/ SUPPLIER Organic Ocean 1505 W. First Ave. 604-862-7192 When Steve Johansen created Organic Ocean 10 years ago with lifelong friend Dane Chauval, he began with an age-old idea: quality over quantity. From the start Organic Ocean, a small group of half a dozen independent fishermen, believed in sustainability and dealing directly with their customers. Johansen, 41, delivers the product himself to the kitchens he supplies (which include C Restaurant, Blue Water Cafe, Raincity Grill, Fuel, Campagnolo, and Vij’s). If chefs have questions or concerns about where or how the product is harvested, he can answer directly: he caught it himself. “Historically, suppliers haven’t been able to answer those questions,” says Robert Clark of C Restaurant, but with Organic Ocean, “I know when, I m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 1 0 3 restaurant awards know where, I know who.” Ditching the derby mentality, whereby fishermen grab as many fish as they can, Johansen and his crew take their time to preserve the quality and freshness of their product. “There’s a lot of pride put into it,” says Johansen, sitting on Fisherman’s Wharf, where his boat, Organic Ocean #1, makes its home. “It’s very personal.” Chauval, meanwhile, spent the past summer in Haida Gwaii with his wife and kids, fishing for salmon, lingcod, and halibut. “The fish up there are so beautiful,” says Johansen. “The whole area is pristine.” And through carefully managed, sustainable practices, the team at Organic Oceans intends to keep it that way. The Producer/Supplier of the Year award is voted on by The Chefs’ Table Society of British Columbia, a province-wide nonprofit collaboration of culinary professionals Best WHISTLER Bearfoot Bistro 4121 Village Green 604-932-3433 Araxi 4222 Village Sq. 604-932-4540 Fifty Two 80 Bistro 4591 Blackcomb Way 604-935-3400 Hy’s Steakhouse 14-4308 Main St. 604-905-5555 4242 Village Stroll 604-932-4442 Il Caminetto di Umberto On the eve of 2010, all eyes turn to Whistler, where Melissa Craig, star of the open kitchen at Bearfoot Bistro (Gold), helped her room displace long-time category winner Araxi. At the popular chef’s table, opt for the house-smoked caribou with balsamic blackberry jus. James Walt of Araxi (Silver) makes simplicity appear simple with rigorously conceived m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 1 0 5 restaurant awards fresh meats and fish; try seared red tuna with caponata or wild salmon with herb and Pemberton arugula crust. With its lively bar, white-linen service, and warm lighting, Fifty Two 80 Bistro (Bronze) strikes the right balance between hipster and fine dining. Honourable Mentions: a seductively dark interior welcomes steak-savvy diners to Hy’s Steakhouse, while impeccable service at Il Caminetto di Umberto complements a fine range of daily specials. Best VICTORIA Brasserie L’École 1715 Government St. 250-475-6260 Cafe Brio 944 Fort St. 250-383-0009 Zambri’s 110-911 Yates St. 250-360-1171 Stage 1307 Gladstone Ave. 250-388-4222 The Marina Restaurant 1327 Beach Dr. 250-598-8555 Brasserie l’Ecole (Gold) remains a bright spot on touristy Government Street, with splendidly comfy French country food and a wine list that’s small in size but huge in intelligence. Chef Lawrence Munn’s charcuterie-curing room adds depth to the Italian-sponsored menu at Café Brio (Silver); sweetbread-stuffed ravioli with grilled scallions in a red-wine sauce is a classic. It’s hard to find a ristorante rustica as good as Zambri’s (Bronze) even in Italy—sophisticated farmhouse cooking that Vancouver is now beginning to embrace. Honourable Mentions to sleek, contemporary bistro Stage (don’t miss the langos, a savoury Hungarian fry bread taken to new heights with Maldon sea salt and garlic) and view-blessed Marina Restaurant. Best m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 1 0 7 restaurant awards Best VANCOUVER ISLAND Sooke Harbour House 1528 Whiffen Spit Rd. (Sooke) 250-642-3421 Amusé Bistro 1753 Shawnigan Mill Bay Rd. (Shawnigan Lake) 250-743-3667 Sobo 311 Neill St. (Tofino) 250-725-2341 The Pointe at the Wickaninnish Inn 500 Osprey Lane, Chesterman Beach (Tofino) 250-725-3100 The Aerie Dining Room 600 Ebedora Lane (Malahat) 250-743-7115 Every PROPONENT of regional dining owes a debt to locavore granddaddy Sooke Harbour House (Gold); the creative interplay between chef Edward Tuson and owners Frédérique and Sinclair Philip always works on the plate. Amusé Bistro (Silver) in the Cowichan Valley delivers proof positive that a short menu celebrating local ingredients means a talented couple can create a better restaurant than many a resort with more resources. Sobo (Bronze) hits the sophisticated bohemian sweet spot with a seasonal menu featuring those Killer Fish Tacos plus oysters encrusted with cornmeal. Another Tofino mainstay, The Pointe at the Wickaninnish Inn, gets Honourable Mention, as does Malahat’s recently redone Aerie Dining Room. Best RESORT DINING The Pointe at the Wickaninnish Inn 500 Osprey Lane, Chesterman Beach (Tofino) 250-725-3100 ►► m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 1 0 9 restaurant awards ►► b e s t r e s o r t d i n i n g ( c o n t ’ d ) Sooke Harbour House 1528 Whiffen Spit (Sooke) 250-642-3421 Long Beach Lodge Dining Room 1441 Pacific Rim Hwy. (Tofino) 1-877-844-7873 The Aerie Dining Room 600 Ebedora Lane (Malahat) 250-743-7115 Rosemeade Dining Room at the English Inn 429 Lampson St. (Victoria) 250-388-4353 The Pointe at the Wickaninnish Inn (Gold) pairs cedar inside and the waves of Chesterman Beach outside with an accomplished menu. You’ll find land-based fare like duck breast paired with potato gnocchi, and marine treasures like braised Pacific rockfish with local mussels, tomato ragout, gin, basil, and saffron aioli. Sooke Harbour House (Silver) brings the garden indoors in dishes like salmon with rosemary crème fraîche and chive oil, sautéed morel mushrooms, and potato, beet top, and kale. Unwind in the Long Beach Lodge’s Dining Room (Bronze) with chef Joshua Anker’s take on a global-modern menu matched with local sources. Honourable Mentions go to slow-food chef Castro Boateng of the Aerie Dining Room and Richard Luttman’s sophisticated Rosemeade Dining Room in Esquimalt. Best OKANAGAN Waterfront Wine Bar 104-1180 Sunset Dr. (Kelowna) 250-979-1222 Cabana Grille 3799 Lakeshore Rd. (Kelowna) 250-763-1955 Bouchons Bistro 105-1180 Sunset Dr. (Kelowna) 250-763-6595 ►► m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 1 1 1 restaurant awards fect lake views contextualize seasonal tasting menus; the well-stocked cellar means a perfect pairing for every 1560 Water St. (Kelowna) course. Over at Quails’ Gate, newly 250-868-8805 arrived Old Vines Patio chef Roger Sleiman (Silver) reflects the seasons on Seven Six Four Restaurant wine-friendly menus; pair a firm Merlot 12-4600 Lakeshore Rd. (Kelowna) with a Wentzel duck breast or a Family 250-764-7645 Reserve Pinot Noir with wild arctic caribou. Frederic Desbiens, executive It’s an unprepossessing little place chef at Bacchus Bistro at Domaine de (and not on the water), but Waterfront Chaberton (Bronze), excels at classics Wine Bar won Gold because of the fine like boeuf bourguignon and braised dishes that emerge, almost miraculously, lamb shanks; Langley’s never had it from its tiny kitchen. Cabana Grill took so good. Honourable Mentions go to Silver thanks to its casual atmosphere CedarCreek’s relaxed Vineyard Terrace and chef Ned Bell’s deft touch with local and friendly, uncomplicated Grapevine ingredients, and Bouchons took Bronze Restaurant at Gray Monk. by neatly recombining the elements of a French bistro with crisp service and a cleverly chosen wine list. Recently renamed Fresco scored points for its elegant marriage of local food with local wine, and Seven Six Four Restaurant scored points for its tasty breakfasts and Thomas Haas Patisserie and Cappucino Bar winning desserts. 128-998 Harbourside Dr. (North Van) 604-924-1847 ►► b e s t o k a n a g a n ( c o n t ’ d ) Fresco Best LAST COURSE Best WINERY/ VINEYARD DINING The Terrace at Mission Hill 1730 Mission Hill Rd. (Kelowna) 250-768-6467 Old Vines Patio Restaurant at Quails’ Gate 3303 Boucherie Rd. (Kelowna) 800-420-9463, ext. 252 250-769-2500 Bacchus Bistro at Domaine de Chaberton 1064 216 St. (Langley) 604-530-9694 Vineyard Terrace at CedarCreek 5445 Lakeshore Rd. (Kelowna) 250-764-8866 Grapevine Restaurant at Gray Monk 1055 Camp Rd. (Kelowna) 250-766-3168 It’s hard to imagine a more idyllic al fresco dining locale than the Terrace at Mission Hill (Gold)—picture-per- CinCin 1154 Robson St. 604-688-7338 West 2881 Granville St. 604-738-8938 Ganache Patisserie 1262 Homer St. 604-899-1098 Diva at the Met 645 Howe St. 604-602-7788 “If you want quality desserts and are willing to forgo glittering lights and plush seating, there’s really only one destination, and Thomas Haas is it,” raved a judge about our Gold winner. Thierry Busset at CinCin (Silver) impresses with treats like roasted cherries served with kirsch, raspberry coulis, and ice cream. West’s (Bronze) chocolate-filled Charlottes are irresistible and Ganache Patisserie’s (Honourable Mention) seasonal pastries are inspired. Diva at the Met (Honourable Mention) fostered talent like Thomas Haas and itself delivers a stellar last course. m a y 2 0 0 9 va n m a g . c o m 1 1 3 restaurant awards the Best neXt new¬able Recently opened rooms we’re likely to see at next year’s Restaurant Awards DBBistroModerne Under the guidance of Daniel Boulud, Dale MacKay (left) commands the kitchen at the elegantly renewed Lumière while Stephane Istel (right) helms the hipper, more energetic DB Bistro Moderne 1 1 4 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 “Milan diSCo,” offered one guest in reaction to the beige, the dark wood, the mirrored surfaces and the brightly tiled walls. “Gstaad fondue hut,” suggested another. The room’s energetic design reflects daniel Boulud’s dynamic, bi-coastal, bi-continental cuisine. The local outpost shares many of the classic French dishes of its older new York sibling but shows more restraint. The tarte flambée, an upscale flatbread layered with fromage blanc, bacon, and onions, Evaan Kheraj 2563W.Broadway 604-739-7115 restaurant awards ►► n e w a n d n o ta b l e ( c o n t ’ d ) is common to both rooms, although not available in the $75 truffle-layered version offered back East. The infamous db burger remains a worthy fetish object with its braised short rib and black-truffle stuffing for $28. Vancouverites have wisely embraced the phenomenal orecchiette pasta as their own. The Frenchest items on the menu are the desserts—apple tart, chiboust, clafoutis—although the chocolate sundae with hazelnut rice krispies and coffee ice cream will appeal to even the most ardent Francophile. Chef de cuisine Stephane Istel learned his stuff at the elbow of the master, Monsieur Boulud, and it shows.—Chris Johns Lumière 2551 W. Broadway 604-739-8185 Think of the tiny streetside alcove as the entrance to the rabbit hole. Part 1 1 6 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 the heavy curtains, walk into the dining room, and it’s like stepping, if not into Wonderland, into something plush and timeless and slightly surreal. Is this really Vancouver? With only 40 seats and a cosy little bar, the room exudes a feeling of deep intimacy, accentuated by the thick carpet and heavily padded seating. Executive chef Dale MacKay has clearly benefited from his extended collaboration (in New York, Beijing, and here in town) with Daniel Boulud; his food seems at once more complex and simpler than before. A parade of tiny dishes (none smaller than the Lilliputian array of amuse bouche—think elegant vodka-cured hamachi with caviar and the tiniest beets) begins, each plate artfully arranged. The delights keep piling up, from a slow-baked arctic char to a psychotropic duo of beef (red-wine-braised short rib and seared rib eye) and on to a dessert of caramelized pineapple with coconut rice and piña colada sorbet. After the major renovation undertaken last year, Lumière emerges an even more polished jewel in our culinary crown.—Chris Johns Market 1128 W. Georgia St. 604-695 1115 Beyond the buzzy little bar, the main dining room features an abundant use of precious metals—including scalloped banquettes backed with gold chainmail—and gets a lot of things right. Little touches (the butter and the wine were served at exactly the right temperatures) quickly add up. JeanGeorges Vongerichten has called this restaurant “a collection of my greatest hits,” and executive chef David Foot interprets them through local products. Dungeness crab dumplings arrive on a silver platter held aloft by one of the attractive staff and are accompanied by a meyer lemon and celeriac tea. A long, deep braise imbues short ribs with dark soy flavours, and rosemary crumbs (crumbs are the new foam) add textural intrigue. Desserts are uniformly old school (pavlova, anyone?) and include a smash hit: apple confit with restaurant awards ►► n e w a n d n o ta b l e ( c o n t ’ d ) green-apple sorbet, which may well be the ultimate expression of the fruit. For those not already familiar with the Alsatian-born, New York-based Vongerichten, this greatest-hits compilation is sure to garner new fans—especially while introductory bargain pricing is in effect.—Chris Johns Regional Tasting Lounge 1130 Mainland St. 604-638-1550 The room ITSELF—beyond the sliding, tinted-glass front door—is muted, modern, and grown-up. The greeting is warm and pleasingly understated. The bar, at the far end, is just right for perching, sharing cocktails, or dining solo. The food concept—a revolving array of regionally based small plates—is where things could get tricky. There’s a West Coast side to the menu, and a side that changes every three months. If you enjoyed, say, the salt-cod fritters and pork 1 1 8 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 alentejana (Portugal and France were recently featured), what’s to say you won’t hanker for them as you peruse, say, the Spanish and Middle Eastern offerings that might show up next time? The service is reliable, the wine list imaginative, the prices reasonable. The question is whether executive chef Erik Smith, a jack of all culinary trades, can master them all. And whether a fresh dining concept can separate this elegantly imagined restaurant from its Yaletown competition.—Jesse Spencer Campagnolo 1020 Main St. 604-484-6018 Had the guys from Fuel gone off their rockers? Opening a new room, just as the recession bit hard, in one of the sketchiest parts of town? Sure, Rob Belcham is a superbly talented chef, Tom Doughty a resourceful sommelier, and Tim Pittman a gracious host. But how would they transform the rather dowdy Main Street space (formerly Adega, an old-school Portuguese restaurant) into a modern Italian spot that would attract trade from more congenial neighbourhoods? The answer is delivered course by course in a cool, almost stark room, all concrete and raw fir, that warms as it fills with diners. Try the house-made salumi for starters, along with crispy ceci (chickpeas) peperoncini. The tagliarini are firstrate, or go for the flatiron steak with salsa verde for a whack of protein. Afterwards, a grappa or digestivo to complement the olive oil cake or panna cotta will leave you happily replete. Campagnolo (“country bumpkin”) is a happy convergence of minimalist décor, satisfying fare, careful wine list, and appealing price points. The bar in back is a funky, laid-back place to chat. Crazy, all right, but not like a bumpkin. Like a prescient fox.—Jesse Spencer For 1000+ restaurant reviews visit Vanmag.com restaurant awards works in the restaurant industry and frequently contributes to this magazine. B i l l J o n e s is a chef, author of nine cookbooks, and food consultant based in the Cowichan Valley. D J K e a r n e y is a sommelier instructor for the International Sommelier Guild and a chef and wine writer for Wine Access magazine. J o i e A lva r o K e n t is a freelance food writer whose work appears in Vancouver magazine, Eat magazine, and Best Places Vancouver. Q u b i c L a m is a freelance writer and a wine columnist for Sing Tao Daily and Evergreen News. D e a n a L a n c a s t e r is the food and wine editor for the North Shore News and Look magazine, and a contributor to Sunset magazine. L e e M a n is a freelance food writer; his work has appeared in Vancouver magazine, Eat magazine, the Vancouver edition of Time Out, and Best Places Vancouver. He also judges the Chinese Restaurant Awards. Chris Gonzalez judges is a regular contributor to Western Living magazine and also works as a research chef and food stylist. C h r i s t i n a B u rr i d g e is the drink editor for Vancouver magazine and executive director of the B.C. Seafood Alliance. S i d Cr o s s is a wine columnist for Western Living, a judge for this magazine’s wine awards, and cofounder of the Chefs’ Table Society of BC. He was recently voted into the B.C. Restaurant Hall of Fame as a Friend of the Industry. M u rr ay B a n c r o f t 1 2 0 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 is a freelance food writer with expertise in Chinese cuisine. J a m i e M a w was for 15 years the food editor of this magazine. He was recently inducted into the British Columbia Restaurant Hall of Fame. B a r b a r a - j o M c I n t o s h is an author, a former restaurateur, and the owner of her own bookstore, Barbara-Jo’s Books to Cooks. J a s o n M c R o b b i e promotes regional roots and global flavours as a freelance writer and videographer. A n d r e w M o rr i s o n is the editor of the food-forward Scout website, food columnist for the Westender newspaper, and frequent contributor to Vancouver magazine. T i m Paw s e y writes on food and wine for the Vancouver Courier, North Shore News, and Where Vancouver, and co-edits Zagat’s Best of Vancouver D av i d S c h o l e f i e l d is the chief judge for Vancouver magazine’s International Wine Competition. M i a S ta i n s b y is the indefatigable Br e n d o n M at h e w s restaurant critic and food writer for the Vancouver Sun. S t e p h e n W o n g is a freelance food and wine journalist and cookbook author. M e t h o d o l o g y Judges were di- vided into specialized teams. Anyone with a perceived conflict of interest in a particular category was excluded from judging in that category. We thank them all for their time and extraordinary dedication. PA R TIAL P r o c e e d s from the 20th annual Restaurant Awards, held on April 14 at the Sheraton Wall Centre, were donated to the Food Runners program (run by the Greater Vancouver Food Bank Society), which receives quality food donated from restaurants, hotels, cafeterias, and schools, and delivers it to meal-providing agencies. Food Runner saves 725,000 pounds of food yearly, creating 1.25 million meals for people in need. A c c o u n t i n g services for tabulating the results provided by Jill MacKenzie, CGA restaurant awards Vancouver Playhouse International Wine Festival WINE LIST AWARDS Gold M ET R O VANCOUVE R P l at i n u m Br o n z e Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar West The Beach House (West Van) Bistrot Bistro Bravo Restaurant + Lounge (Chilliwack) Brix Diva at the Met Earls The Flying Tiger Joe Fortes Goldfish Pacific Kitchen Gramercy Grill Gudrun Lift Nu Onyx (White Rock) Pair Bistro The Salmon House (West Van) La Terrazza Zest Japanese Cuisine Gold C Restaurant Chambar CinCin Cioppino’s Fuel Salt Tasting Room Vij’s S i lv e r Cactus Club Café The Fish House in Stanley Park The Observatory Pearl on the Rock (White Rock) Provence Marinaside La Quercia Rangoli Seymour Golf+Country Club (North Van) Yew 1 2 2 va n m a g . c o m m a y 2 0 0 9 Honourable Mention Hart House Haus Europa (Gibsons) Restaurant 62 (Abbotsford) Tomato Fresh Food Café The William Tell WHISTLE R Br o n z e The Landing West Coast Grill (Nanoose Bay) Nautical Nellies (Victoria) Panache at Bear Mountain (Victoria) The Pacific (Victoria) Honourable Mention Stage Wine Bar (Victoria) Catch (Calgary) The Living Room (Calgary) S i lv e r River Café (Calgary) Br o n z e Chef’s Table (Calgary) Raw Bar (Calgary) Honourable Mention La Ronde (Edmonton) Gold Araxi INTE R IO R S i lv e r Br o n z e Rimrock Café The Wine Room (Fairmont Chateau Whistler) All Seasons Café (Nelson) Sal’s Prime Steakhouse (Kelowna) VANCOUVE R ISLAND The Rotten Grape (Kelowna) Honourable Mention P l at i n u m Sooke Harbour House ALBE R TA S i lv e r P l at i n u m Atrevida (Galiano) Il Terrazzo (Victoria) Divino Wine & Cheese Bistro (Calgary) S o mm e l i e r of the Year Andrea Vescovi, Blue Water Cafe + Raw Bar Sp i r i t e d I n d u s t r y Professional John Schreiner Congratulations to our 2009 Trade Competition Winners