The Girls` Guide to Paris Shopping Tour Set

Transcription

Walk and Shop the Marais and Bastille
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
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1.
Métro St. Paul – starting point
2.
16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques
3.
4.
5.
cont’d
3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire
3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière
3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal
6.
7, rue des Rosiers – Custo
7.
34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel
8.
2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez Marianne
9.
47, rue des Francs Bourgeois – MUJI
10.
51, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Antoine & Lili
11.
34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – L’Artisan Parfumeur
12.
56–58, rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe Sister
13.
75, rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush
14.
68, rue Vieille du Temple – Jamin Puech
15.
16.
17.
34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Centre Culturel Suisse
43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Barbara Bui
41–43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Les Petites
18.
33, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Comptoir des Cotonniers
19.
1–3, rue Elzevir – Adolfo Dominguez
20.
21.
22, rue des Francs Bourgeois – BA & SH
20, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Chaise Longue
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2010 Inspire Partners, LLC and Girls’ Guide to Paris. All Rights Reserved
22.
23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet
23.
5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso
24.
23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite
25.
8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde
26.
32, rue de Sévigné – Vialis*
27.
17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm
28.
15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café
29.
20, rue de Sévigné – Losco
30.
31.
cont’d
14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard
12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première
32.
40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur
33.
2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrot de la Place
34.
19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne*
35.
17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga
36.
16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer*
37.
18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik
38.
22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire
39.
24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre
41.
36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci
40.
49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées
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42.
112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC
43.
125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar
44.
22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear
45.
15, rue de Poitou – Shine
46.
24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde
47.
48.
49.
50.
17, rue de Poitou – Avenches*
22, rue de Poitou – Swildens*
24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom*
27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie
51.
21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz
52.
25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire
53.
54.
55.
56.
57.
29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin
33, rue de Poitou – The Collection
44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur
25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry
24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon
58.
29, rue Charlot – Pring
59.
33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33
60.
38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun*
61.
62.
63.
64.
cont’d
38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot*
37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché
39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants Rouges
39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) – L’Estaminet
* Sadly these locations have closed.
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This tour will take between two and five
hours depending on how many shops you
visit.
Begin in the Bastille at 1. Métro St. Paul, in the
4th Arrondissement. Turn up rue Pavée, walking
north. 2. K. Jacques at 16, rue Pavée, is a great
stop if you are looking for those quintessential St.
Tropez sandals that have been all the rage for the
last several summers. K. Jacques has been
making them by hand for the past 75 years. Find
3. Zadig & Voltaire on the corner of rue des
Rosiers and Pavée, for a young, hip yet not-tooexpensive look. To the right on Rosiers you’ll find
one of the best tea salons in Paris at 3, rue des
Rosiers, 4. Le Loir dans la Théière, if you
need a cup of tea for fuel or a little snack.
To the left now, continue walking down Rosiers,
taking note of this very historic street. It is one of
the oldest and most historic in Paris. It was and still
is the center of Jewish life, with very trendy boutiques and cafés and the countless tourists who
frequent the area. Some of the buildings here date
back to the 1500s and earlier. 5. Annick Goutal
is at 3 bis, rue des Rosiers (on your left), good for
classic French perfumes with that lovely butterflytopped bottle. After that you’ll find 6. Custo, the
designer from Barcelona known for fun, trendy, colorful shirts as well as other items for men and
women, at 7, rue des Rosiers.
If you are hungry and don’t want to waste time with
a sit-down meal, stop for a falafel at 7. L’As du
Fallafel, at 34, rue des Rosiers (closed Saturdays). Turn right on rue des Hospitalières St.Gervais for 8. Chez Marianne (if you prefer falafel or meze sitting down, this is your stop). Farther down this street you’ll find 9. MUJI, the
Japanese home and clothing store that always has
something affordable, well designed and of inter-
cont’d
est. The main entrance is around the corner on
Francs Bourgeois.
At rue des Francs Bourgeois, turn right and head
toward the Place des Vosges. There are great
shops in both directions; to the left you’ll see 10.
Antoine & Lili, at number 51, great for bright,
colorful bohemian-style frocks made famous by
Madonna (word has it she outfits her kids here),
as well as Zadig & Voltaire, mentioned previously.
To the right you’ll notice 11. L’Artisan Parfumeur at number 34; stop to try on some
scents.
Continue on to the right, heading toward the Place
des Vosges. If you have time for a slight detour,
turn up the road and follow rue Vieille du Temple
north for a block. Within this block you’ll find 12.
Paul and Joe Sister (part of the Paul and Joe
empire), which is toujours chic and totally fabulous
at 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple. Plus, you’ll find
the very girly-girl shop 13. Manoush on the left,
at 75, rue Vieille du Temple. At the end of the
block, on the corner of rue Barbette (number 68),
you’ll enjoy 14. Jamin Puech and their incredible and unique bags.
Turn back around and head back down to rue des
Francs Bourgeois and turn left, heading toward
the Place des Vosges. 15. Centre Culturel
Suisse, at 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois, is good
for a stop if you need some culture. Exhibitions
are free, and there is a lovely little terrace for tea
in good weather. Farther down rue des Francs
Bourgeois, at number 43, you’ll find 16. Barbara Bui, which is always a fashionable outpost.
Pop into 17. Les Petites, at 41–43, rue des
Francs Bourgeois, for a more basic yet still very
fashionable look. You’ll also find 18. Comptoir
des Cotonniers at number 33—a great spot
for affordable, wearable everyday casual clothing.
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Head up rue Elzevir if you’d like to stop into 19.
Adolfo Dominguez, at numbers 1–3, for affordable, unmistakably Spanish clothing, including cute
doggie clothes (à la Paris Hilton). If you pick and
choose carefully, you might find a good bargain. Another worthy stop is 20. BA & SH, for midpriced,
slightly bohemian frocks, at 22, rue des Francs
Bourgeois. Check out 21. Chaise Longue at
number 20 for a bit of folly if you are looking for a
gift for a friend with a sense of humor.
Stop in for a break from shopping and a dose of culture at 22. Musée Carnavalet (23, rue de Sévigné; 01 44 59 58 58). Chronicling the history of
Paris is the purpose of Carnavalet, but its exquisite
walled garden is what you’ll remember—plus, it’s
free! 23. Musée Picasso, nearby at 5, rue de
Thorigny, is divine and very doable in a short time
frame (but at present is closed for renovations;
check website first).
Farther down Francs Bourgeois, 24. Satellite
does fun, affordable costume jewelry, which may be
a bit colorful for some, at 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois. 25. Autour du Monde, at number 8
(corner of Sévigné), is one of our favorite stores in
town, combining home and fashion—one can always find something great here. Turn right on rue de
Sévigné, where you’ll discover 26. Vialis* at
number 32, with their reasonable leather walking
shoes and heels from Spain (they are truly comfortable—a real necessity in Paris).
27. Capharnaüm, at 17, rue de Sévigné, is a
place where teens and twentysomethings will find
reason to splurge. 28. Piment Café is a hole-inthe-wall bar that we love, at number 15, and a great
stop post-shop. 29. Losco, at 20, rue de Sévigné,
is fun if you want to create your own belt. All you do
is pick out the width and the type of leather and then
fit it to the buckle of your choice. We’ve had a lot of
fun in here. 30. Eric Bompard, at 14, rue de
cont’d
Sévigné, has nice cashmere that isn’t terribly
pricey (for cashmere, that is), and it’s well done.
31. Matière Première, at 12, rue de Sévigné, is one of those places where you can create
your own jewelry with beads—a perfect afternoon
activity if you are with a teen or a creative type.
On the other end of Sévigné 32. L’Eclaireur
has recently opened a cool new outpost at number 40— this is one of the Girls’ Guide’s favorite
shops in Paris. There are several more throughout the city. L’Eclaireur, owned by Martine and
Armand Hadida, is always cutting edge, marrying
fashion, furniture and design. Be prepared to pay
for Dries Van Noten, Comme des Garçons and
the like, but their eye is artistic, sexy and always
au courant.
Now turn around and go back to rue de Jarente,
south of Francs Bourgeois, just off of Sévigné.
Turn left and quickly you’ll come to rue Caron,
and if you turn right you’ll see the adorable Place
du Marché Ste. Catherine. You can choose one
of the cafés here for lunch. 33. Au Bistrot de
la Place, at number 2 on the place, is fairly
good for a salad or something light.
Now coming out of the place, go back to Jarente
and follow it until it ends at rue de Turenne,
where you’ll turn left. Here at number 19 you’ll
find an old silver shop by the name of 34. Argenterie de Turenne* — pop in if you are in
the market for silver. After this shop, on the same
side of the street you’ll see two darling baby
shops, if you need a gift. One has no name, and
the other, at number 17, is called 35. Baby Beluga, perfect for that terribly chic, hip baby in
your life. You can find interesting canvas bags at
16, rue de Turenne, in 36. Anna Kaszer. And
then you’ll see 37. Antik Batik at number 18,
the famous bohemian fashion stop and a perennial favorite. You can probably find this store at
home, however. Then you’ll find another 38.
Zadig & Voltaire at 22, rue de Turenne, if you
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didn’t stop before.
Here, turn down Francs Bourgeois again if you’d
like to peek in at the oldest and loveliest square in
Paris, the Place des Vosges, turn right. Continuing now back up Turenne, you’ll see 39. Pain
de Sucre, which offers some nice bathing suits
and lingerie that isn’t too wild or ridiculously expensive. If you haven’t eaten yet and you didn’t stop at
Place Catherine, you can nourish yourself now at
41. Café Baci, at 36, or 40. Café des
Musées, at 49, rue de Turenne. After that the surroundings get a bit pedestrian, but never fear, you
are hoofing it to the haute Marais, which is quieter
and our favorite part. The upper Marais is filled with
extremely original small shops and designers.
Turn left when you reach rue Debelleyme, and stay
to the right as the road forks, making sure to stay
on Debelleyme. At corner of Vieille du Temple,
you’ve got 42. APC at number 112, rue Vieille du
Temple—pop in for perfect jeans and other musthaves. Turn right on Vieille du Temple and you’ll
find 43. Abou d’Abi Bazar, at 125, rue Vieille
du Temple, with their simple, elegant clothing. Turn
here on rue de Poitou. You’ll find a fabulous sleepand loungewear store called 44. V & J loungewear at 22, rue Debelleyme (on the corner of Poitou). Nearby 45. Shine, at 15, rue de Poitou, offers a nice mix of name designers. 46. Oxyde, at
24, rue de Poitou, has fresh, casual style, and 47.
Avenches*, at number 17, has very interesting
one-of-a-kind jewelry. 48. Swildens*, at number
22, is a shop specializing in a very downtown look.
À la Carte has fabulous necklaces with vintage
watches. 49. Native Kingdom* was another
spectacular kidswear shop (unfortunately now
closed). 50. Violette & Léonie, at number 27,
sells killer vintage clothing, shoes and jewelry. We
love rue de Poitou!
Continue down the road, turning right on rue de
Saintonge. Here at number 21 you’ll find designer
51. Erik Linz’s creations, which are beautiful,
cont’d
unique and handmade. 52. Blanc d’Ivoire,
at 25, rue de Saintonge, is the perfect place to
outfit the French home, or the American one! We
like their candlesticks, their silver globes and
their luxurious comforters. Back down on Poitou,
have a look into Christian Lacroix’s hotel, 53.
Hôtel du Petit Moulin, at 29–31, rue de Poitou, which is très chic and unique. Farther down,
54. the Collection, at number 33, offers the
most interesting wallpaper we’ve ever seen—
truly worth lugging back. 55. L’Habilleur, at
number 44, is good if you’d like to browse a mix
of designers (Paul and Joe, Michel Klein) or
items with a Moroccan touch.
Turning right on rue Charlot, you’ll find 56.
Jack Henry at number 25, with spiffy Englishstyle clothing by an American designer. 57.
Samy Chalon, at number 24, has colorful and
well-designed dresses and other pieces. 58.
Pring, at 29, rue Charlot, has wildly over-thetop shoes. 59. AB33, at numbers 33 and 60, is
a very understated fashion outpost with an LA
feel. Simple, elegant jewelry with a modern bent
can be found online at 60. Sylvie Arkoun*.
Once you reach the corner of Charlot and rue de
Bretagne, top off your marathon day of shopping
with a drink at 61. Café Charlot*, 38, rue de
Bretagne, or 62. Café du Marché, 37, rue
de Bretagne, and watch the afternoon/evening
crowd walk by. Alternatively, go into the everadorable 63. Marché des Enfants
Rouges, which is across the street from the
cafés (open late on Thursday nights), and have
a mint tea and some Moroccan sweets at one of
their outdoor tables. We also love 64. L’Estaminet, within the marché at 39, rue de Bretagne. Divine! At the end of your long shopping
tour of the Marais treat yourself to a taxi back
home or continue on rue Bretagne heading east,
turn left at rue Filles du Calvaire to find the
metro stop of the same name.
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cont’d
31. 40, rue de Sévigné – L’Eclaireur
Points of Interest Addresses
1.
Métro St. Paul – starting point
2.
16, rue Pavée – K. Jacques
3.
3, rue des Rosiers at rue Pavée – Zadig & Voltaire
4.
3, rue des Rosiers – Le Loir dans la Théière
5.
3 bis, rue des Rosiers – Annick Goutal
6.
7, rue des Rosiers – Custo
7.
34, rue des Rosiers – L’As du Fallafel
8.
2, rue des Hospitalières St.-Gervais – Chez
Marianne
9.
47, rue des Francs Bourgeois – MUJI
32. 2, Place du Marché Ste. Catherine – Au Bistrot
de la Place
33. 19, rue de Turenne – Argenterie de Turenne
34. 17, rue de Turenne – Baby Beluga*
35. 16, rue de Turenne – Anna Kaszer
36. 18, rue de Turenne – Antik Batik
37. 22, rue de Turenne – Zadig & Voltaire
38. 24, rue de Turenne – Pain de Sucre
39. 49, rue de Turenne – Café des Musées
40. 36, rue de Turenne – Café Baci
41. 112, rue Vieille du Temple – APC
10. 51, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Antoine & Lili
42. 125, rue Vieille du Temple – Abou d’Abi Bazar
11. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – L’Artisan
Parfumeur
43. 22, rue Debelleyme – V & J loungewear
12. 56–58, rue Vieille du Temple – Paul and Joe Sister
45. 24, rue de Poitou – Oxyde
13. 75, rue Vieille du Temple – Manoush
46. 17, rue de Poitou – Avenches
14. 68, rue Vieille du Temple – Jamin Puech
47. 22, rue de Poitou – Swildens*
15. 34, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Centre Culturel
Suisse
48. 24, rue de Poitou – Native Kingdom*
16. 43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Barbara Bui
17. 41–43, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Les Petites
18. 33, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Comptoir des
Cotonniers
44. 15, rue de Poitou – Shine
49. 27, rue de Poitou – Violette & Léonie*
50. 21, rue de Saintonge – Erik Linz
51. 25, rue de Saintonge – Blanc d’Ivoire
52. 29–31, rue de Poitou – Hôtel du Petit Moulin
19. 1–3, rue Elzevir – Adolfo Dominguez
53. 33, rue de Poitou – The Collection
20. 22, rue des Francs Bourgeois – BA & SH
54. 44, rue de Poitou – L’Habilleur
21. 20, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Chaise Longue
55. 25, rue Charlot – Jack Henry
22. 23, rue de Sévigné – Musée Carnavalet
56. 24, rue Charlot – Samy Chalon
23. 5, rue de Thorigny – Musée Picasso
57. 29, rue Charlot – Pring
24. 23, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Satellite
58. 33 and 60, rue Charlot – AB33
25. 8, rue des Francs Bourgeois – Autour du Monde
59. 38, rue Charlot – Sylvie Arkoun*
26. 17, rue de Sévigné – Capharnaüm*
60. 38, rue de Bretagne – Café Charlot*
27. 15, rue de Sévigné – Piment Café
61. 37, rue de Bretagne – Café du Marché*
28. 20, rue de Sévigné – Losco
62. 39, rue de Bretagne – Marché des Enfants
Rouges
29. 14, rue de Sévigné – Eric Bompard
30. 12, rue de Sévigné – Matière Première
63. 39, rue de Bretagne (within the marché) –
L’Estaminet
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Shopping with Jackie Kennedy in Paris:
A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement
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Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Paris and Doni
Belau. All Rights Reserved.
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1.
2.
Metro Jasmin, line 9 – starting point 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris 1949–50 1 3.
4.
Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh 5.
6.
7.
La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la Muette Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly 2
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8.
9.
10.
Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street 11.
12.
13.
Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard Rue Berton Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens 14.
15.
Palais de Chaillot, 35, avenue Raymond Poincaré Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place du Trocadéro 3
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A Walk through the Aristocratic 16th Arrondissement In 1949–50, during her junior year abroad, Jacqueline Bouvier lived in this area, which is known as Passy, while she attended classes at the Sorbonne. She later described this year as “the high point in my life, my happiest and most carefree year.” The walk takes you through some of the streets she would have known and ends at the Palais de Chaillot, where in 1961, during a presidential state visit, John F. Kennedy described himself to a room full of journalists as “the man who accompanied Jackie Kennedy to Paris.” The walk includes a chic shopping area that Jackie pat‐
ronized when she was married to Aristotle Onassis, who maintained an apartment in Paris. The walk takes about two hours from start to finish, but longer if you stop to shop, eat or visit one of the museums on the route. There are many good picnic spots as well as dozens of cafés and restaurants. Begin at 1. metro Jasmin. Take the rue Jasmin exit, which comes out in front of 2. 78, avenue Mozart. Jacqueline Bouvier lived in this building when she was a student at the Sorbonne, 1949–50. She lodged with the widowed Comtesse de Renty and her family in a large apartment, with several other students. There was no central heating, and the eight occupants of the apartment shared a single bathroom. During the winter, Jackie slept with her coat over her for warmth. Walk up avenue Mozart, keeping No. 78 on your left. Cross the road and turn right into rue de l’Assomption (Napoleon and Josephine once lived on this street) and then left into rue Davioud, a narrow, cobbled road. Turn right into rue du Ranelagh. On your right you will see 3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh, where actresses Charlotte Gainsbourg and Marion Cotillard attended school, and where Simone de Beauvoir taught until she was fired in 1939 for having an affair with a female student. Opposite the school at No. 64, rue du Ranelagh, is 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school. Ducasse, born in 1956, was not a contemporary of Jackie’s, but his style of using fresh, seasonal products is the same as that of René Verdon, whom Jackie hired as White House chef in 1961. (She was the first presidential wife to hire a professional chef, and she conducted Verdon’s interview in French.) Ducasse’s school is on the ground floor at the back and has a small boutique. Courses are open to all, and gift certificates are available. Instruction is in French, but a translator can be arranged if you give the school advance notice (www.ecolecuisine‐alainducasse.com/). Rue du Ranelagh goes all the way down to the river, where it runs into—appropriately enough—the Avenue du Président Kennedy. If you are a true‐blue Jackie fan, you may want to follow it as far as No. 10, once the site of a literary salon patronized by a friend of Jackie’s, the writer and politician André Malraux. Through her friendship with Malraux, Jackie arranged for the Mona Lisa to be sent to the United States in 1963. Go back up rue du Ranelagh (away from the river) and turn into rue Gustave Zédé opposite the Lycée, left on rue du Général Aubé and right again at rue Pajou. The streets are climbing uphill—this part of the city was once the site of huge mansions with gardens sloping down to the Seine. Many of the ornate buildings that now occupy this area date from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Turn left on rue des Vignes (recalling a time when grapevines grew here), and cross avenue Mozart. Con‐
tinue on rue Largillière, which opens into a large space where several roads converge. To your left is 5. La Gare, a popular restaurant, built into a former station on the railway known as La Petite Ceinture (the little belt), a line that once ran around the circumference of the city (www.restaurantlagare.com). If you turn left as you come out of La Gare and walk down Chausée de la Muette, you will enter 6. Jardin du Ranelagh. In the 18th century, public balls were held here and Parisians from all walks of life came to dance. If you have children with you, the garden of‐
fers a range of amusements and places to play, and you will get no further. If you continue on the same road to the other side of the gardens and cross avenue Raphaël, you will see 7. Musée Marmottan (www.marmottan.com) at 2, rue Louis Boilly. It is devoted to Impressionist art. When Jackie lived in the 16th, this was a museum of Second Empire decorative arts. Its focus changed in 1957, with a donation of Impressionist masterpieces, a focus consolidated with a further donation of Monet’s art by his son in 1966. If you are an art lover, you may want to visit the museum. But if you want to do some serious shopping, continue the walk. Cross the road directly in front of La Gare and take Chaussée de la Muette, which becomes rue de Passy, the main shopping street of the Passy area. Look for the yellow signs on the left at No. 80. This is 8. Franck et Fils (www.francketfils.fr). The store opened at this location in 1937. Today, it’s a scaled‐down version of Le Bon Marché (both stores are owned by LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis 4
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Vuitton). There are three floors of fashion and a pleasant café on the top floor. Not only did Jackie shop here occasionally, but the store features the fashion line known as Paule Ka, whose designer takes his inspiration from Jackie (as well as Audrey Hepburn and Grace Kelly). Rue de Passy features boutiques from many of the ma‐
jor fashion brands. Look for the elements of Jackie’s classic style: either the pearls and the boxy suits of the White House years or the oversized sunglasses, slim white pants and dark skinny tops of the Jackie O years. At Place de Passy, the road opens into a little area with trees. Turn right and you will see 9. Passy covered mar‐
ket, at 1, rue Bois le Vent (foodies take note: the chefs at the Ducasse school shop here), and 10. rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian street market. Take the rue de l’Annonciation, which is closed to cars and has many open‐air cafés. On the left is the Passy Plaza (where you can buy food for a picnic) and a little church. Continue to rue Raynouard. Turn right into this street and at No. 47 you will see the entrance to 11. Maison de Balzac (www.paris.org/Musees/Balzac/). Honoré de Balzac lived here in the 1840s. The gardens are open to all, and this is a good picnic spot. Balzac’s house reminds us that Jackie earned her degree in French literature (her favorite writer, however, was Bau‐
delaire). She may have read Balzac’s “Treatise on Elegant Living,” in which he says, “Anyone who does not visit Paris frequently will never be completely elegant.” Words to live by, and it seems that Jackie did live by them! Continue past Balzac’s house on rue Raynouard, and look for the steps going down on the left. Take them and turn left into 12. rue Berton. This charming cobbled street feels like a country road in the middle of the city. As you go on, it gets narrower and narrower, until it opens into rue Marcel Proust. Bear left. Take the stairs down on the right into another garden. From the bottom of the stairs, the exit is to the left, through a large square archway. Walk straight through and cross the road into Impasse Marie de Ré‐
gnier. The gate through the traffic barrier at the end of the street takes you into rue Charles Dickens. Walk to the end and turn left, where you will see 13. Musée du Vin (Museum of Wine, www.museeduvinparis.com/en). In addition to the museum, there is a boutique and a restaurant, in a series of low, arched caves. The muse‐
um is educational, but the restaurant food is good. Whether or not you visit the museum depends on your answer to the question: Do you want to understand wine, or simply experience it? Directly in front of the museum is rue des Eaux. Walk down it and turn left into Square Alboni. Overhead is the bridge that brings trains into the Passy metro sta‐
tion. If you are feeling energetic, take the stairs that lead up to the left before the bridge. If you are tired, walk under the bridge and, voilà, there is an escalator to take you up the hill. This takes you to rue de l’Alboni. Walk up to the traffic circle and turn right into the tree‐
shaded boulevard Delessert. Notice the old walls on the left, with filled‐in arches. Where boulevard Delessert and rue le Nôtre meet, you will see the gardens of 14. Palais de Chaillot, the site of John F. Kennedy’s speech in 1961. You can take the steps on the left, which lead to a path that comes out near a statue of Benjamin Franklin, or you can just walk into the gardens and head uphill to the main building with its museums and restaurants. 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine (http://www.citechaillot.fr/) has an excellent café with a splendid view of the Eiffel Tower. Rest your feet and toast the memory of Jackie. Points of interest addresses: 1. Begin at metro Jasmin, line 9. 2. 78, avenue Mozart, Jackie’s home in Paris, 1949–50 3. Lycée Molière, 71, rue du Ranelagh 4. Alain Ducasse’s cooking school, 64, rue du Ranelagh 5. La Gare restaurant and bar, 19, chausée de la Muette 6. Jardin du Ranelagh, avenue du Ranelagh 7. Musée Marmottan, 2, rue Louis Boilly 8. Franck et Fils, 80, rue de Passy 9. Passy covered market, 1, rue Bois le Vent 10. Rue de l’Annonciation pedestrian market street 11. Maison de Balzac, 47, rue Raynouard 12. Rue Berton 13. Musée du Vin, 5, square Charles Dickens 14. Palais de Chaillot, 35, Avenue Raymond Poincaré 15. Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine, 1, Place Trocadéro If you want to do more shopping, Jackie‐style, go to the 8th Arrondissement (metro Franklin Roosevelt on line 1) and visit: Chanel, 42, avenue Montaigne: Chanel was the inventor of the little boxy suits Jackie favored as First Lady and one of Jackie’s favorite designers. D. Porthault, 50, avenue Montaigne: Jackie bought the linens for the White House here. Givenchy, 3, avenue George V: Givenchy supplied the evening gown Jackie wore at Versailles in 1961. Emilio Pucci, 36, avenue Montaigne: Pucci was one of her favorite designers during the Jackie O years. 5
13
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
14
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Cont.
1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice
2. Café de la Mairie
3. Annick Goutal
4. Comptoir des Cotonniers
5. The Kooples
6. Hervé Chapelier
7. Pierre Hermé
8. Zadig et Voltaire
9. Agnès B.
10. Vilebrequin
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Agnès B.
Au Vieux Colombier
Victoire Homme
Marcel Lassance
Longchamp
Théâtre du Vieux Colombier
17. Le Bon Marché
15
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Cont.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
23.
24.
25.
26.
27.
28.
29.
30.
Camper
Robert Clergerie
Maje
Gerbe
Poilâne
La Cuisine de Bar
Metal Pointu’s
Le Civette
Lilith
Cotélac
Cécile et Jeanne
N. Villaret
Le Cherche Midi
31.
32.
33.
34.
37.
38.
39.
40.
41.
42.
43.
44.
Heimstone
Puyricard
Kamille
Lutetia
La Maison du Chocolat
Hermès
Arnys
IKKS
Maje
Mac Douglas
Gérard Darel
Losco
35. Le Bon Marché
36. La Grande Epicerie
45.
46.
47.
48.
49.
50.
51.
52.
53.
Manoush
Repetto
Tod’s
COS
Sonia Rykiel
Borsalino
Prada
YSL
Tara Jarmon
54.
55.
56.
57.
58.
59.
60.
61.
62.
Sabbia Rosa
Baby Buddha
Ventilo
Iro
Paul and Joe
Y’s
Barbara Bui
Karry’O
Maison Fabre
16
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Cont.
63.
64.
65.
66.
67.
JC de Castelbajac
Zef
Sonia Rykiel
Etro
Ralph Lauren
68.
69.
70.
71.
72.
73.
74.
75.
76.
Gérard Darel
Façonnable
L’Ecume des Pages
Café de Flore
Les Deux Magots
Brasserie Lipp
Eglise Saint-Germain
Louis Vuitton
Assouline
77.
78.
79.
80.
81.
82.
83.
84.
Richart
Ladurée
Simrane
Maison Rustique
Michèle Aragon
Librairie Signature
Michel Klein
Pierre Frey
85.
86.
87.
88.
89.
90.
91.
Eugène Delacroix
Arty Dandy
Jérôme Dreyfuss
Ollivary
Isabel Marant
La Palette
Galerie Documents
17
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Note: The Saint-Germain-des-Prés area is
chock-full of stores, shops and little cafés for
the ultimate Parisian day of walking and shopping. Give yourself an entire afternoon to enjoy
this tour.
Start at the 1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice near the SaintSulpice metro station. Construction of this church,
which replaced a 13th-century church, began in 1646
and was mostly complete a century later. As you enter the church, on the right side you’ll see celebrated
frescoes by Eugène Delacroix. Be sure to turn on the
light to see them well. The church is also famous for
its organ, which was built in the late 18th century and
is one of the world’s largest. It has been played by
many renowned musicians. Light a candle in honor of
a loved one and get ready for a full day. If you need
sustenance, exit the church and turn to the right,
stopping for a coffee at 2. Café de la Mairie (8, Place
Saint-Sulpice), which has chairs that face the historic
and famous Saint-Sulpice fountain, built in the center
of the square between 1844 and 1848 and designed
by the architect Louis Visconti, who also designed
Napoleon’s tomb. This is a popular café in the neighborhood, and it has the best view.
There is something to see, do, eat, smell or buy in every
direction. You won’t be able to do it all, so it’s best not to
try. As you face the café, head to the left, walking toward
the Seine on rue Saint-Sulpice, and you’ll see 3. Annick
Goutal (12, Place Saint-Sulpice), a perfume house
known for its butterfly-capped bottles. These fragrances
make wonderful gifts for friends or yourself. Immediately
after this shop you’ll find 4. Comptoir des Cotonniers
(12, Place Saint-Sulpice) on the corner of Place SaintSulpice and rue Bonaparte, which has chic, affordable
cotton clothing. Across the street, on rue du Vieux Colombier, is 5. The Kooples (74, rue Bonaparte), which
carries a young rock-and-roll look. Next door is 6. Hervé
Chapelier (1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier), famous for
its nylon bags. They fold up neatly, which makes them
easy to take home as gifts in your suitcase; they’re also
great to have on hand in case you do more shopping
today than you anticipated.
Before you continue down rue du Vieux Colombier,
take a right on rue Bonaparte. Three stores in on
the left is 7. Pierre Hermé’s first shop in Paris (72,
rue Bonaparte). Stand in line to get the famous
macarons or any of the other sweets. We adore the
rose-flavored macarons. This is one of the bestknown patisseries in Paris.
Turn back and take a right on rue du Vieux Colombier. Notice the two boutiques of 8. Zadig et Voltaire
(1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier) on the left after
Hervé Chapelier. Z&V presents a style that is part
Malibu surfer, part rock and roll. The first store is for
women, and the second is for men. Across the street
is an 9. Agnès B. (6, rue du Vieux Colombier)
boutique for women. This French designer gives us
a classic Parisian look and is affordably chic. At the
corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue Madame,
10. Vilebrequin (5, rue du Vieux Colombier) carries cute French swimming trunks for men and boys.
Also nearby is an 11. Agnès B. shop for men (12,
rue du Vieux Colombier), where you can always
find great gifts to take home to the men in your life.
A cute bistro for lunch either today or another time
is 12. Au Vieux Colombier (65, rue de Rennes),
at the corner of rue du Vieux Colombier and rue de
Rennes, with lovely art deco decor and a classic Parisian atmosphere. While the food won’t win awards,
the reasonably priced French bistro fare will keep
your pocketbook happy.
Cross rue de Rennes toward the André shoe store
(this is a discount store that we don’t think is worth
a stop) and continue north on rue du Vieux Colombier, toward the Seine. Down the street you’ll see 13.
Victoire Homme (15, rue du Vieux Colombier), a
wonderful men’s clothing store. Several doors down
is 14. Marcel Lassance (17, rue du Vieux Colombier), also excellent for menswear. Farther along is
18
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
15. Longchamp (21, rue du Vieux Colombier), a
classic French label for handbags and luggage, and
beyond that is the 16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier
(21, rue du Vieux Colombier), one of the venues
where the Comédie Française performs. If you speak
French, buy tickets for a show.
As you come to the corner you’ll approach the Carrefour de la Croix Rouge, with five choices of direction.
If you follow rue de Sèvres, you’ll come to 17. le Bon
Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), which is the oldest
department store in Paris and one of the city’s best.
There is great shopping in each direction, but first go
down rue du Cherche Midi to the left.
On the corner you’ll see 18. Camper (25, rue du
Vieux Colombier), a Spanish men’s and women’s
shoe company, with a particularly good selection
of comfortable shoes for men. Turn left on rue du
Cheche Midi. As you turn you’ll see a large half-man,
half-horse statue, named “Le Centaure,” created in
the 1980s by the French sculptor César.
There are many shops worth noting on rue du
Cherche Midi, the first being 19. Robert Clergerie (5,
rue du Cherche Midi), which carries elegant shoes.
Next is a stock store of 20. Maje (6, rue du Cherche
Midi), which offers discounts on the brand’s wellloved French designs. A good place to stock up on
hosiery is 21. Gerbe (4, rue du Cherche Midi), which
was established in 1904. Farther along on the right,
and probably the most famous place on this street,
is the boulangerie 22. Poilâne (8, rue du Cherche
Midi). It is known for its hearty French country bread,
not baguettes. If you are ready for lunch, have a
quick bite at the Poilâne-owned 23. la Cuisine de
Bar (8, rue du Cherche Midi), offering open toasted
sandwiches on Poilâne’s celebrated bread. Across
the street is 24. Metal Pointu’s (13, rue du Cherche
Midi), which specializes in very funky silver jewelry. For a more sophisticated style, try 25. le Civette
(15, rue du Cherche Midi), or 26. Lilith (12, rue
du Cherche Midi) for a range of interesting artistic
designs. On the left, look for 27. Cotélac (17, rue du
Cherche Midi) for men’s and women’s clothing.
At No. 19, look for the lovely bas-relief above the
Catherine André shop, which depicts a bearded man
and a cherub-like figure tracing a sundial, and is
inscribed with the words “Je cherche midi.”
Step inside 28. Cécile et Jeanne* (16, rue du
Cherche Midi) for inventive costume jewelry. For
sumptuous, terribly French curtains and fabric, go to
29. N. Villaret (20, rue du Cherche Midi). To enjoy
our favorite Italian restaurant in Paris, head to 30.
le Cherche Midi (22, rue du Cherche Midi), where
reservations are essential. The 31. Heimstone (23,
rue du Cherche Midi) boutique embodies a funky,
fun bohemian vibe. Farther down on the left, look
for 32. Puyricard (24, rue du Cherche Midi) for
scrumptious chocolates from Provence.
At the end of the street, take a right and you’ll see
33. Kamille (1, Place Alphonse Déville), a boutique
that carries avant-garde fashion. As you approach
boulevard Raspail, you’ll see the 34. Lutetia* (45,
boulevard Raspail), a famous hotel and one of our
partners. This is a great place to return to for a glass
of champagne and oysters. Notice the plaque on
the side of the building before you reach the corner,
explaining that the Lutetia was used by the Nazis
during the occupation. While that’s not a charming
claim to fame, the Lutetia is still a wonderful place to
stay.
Here you can turn left if you are ready to tackle 35. le
Bon Marché (24, rue de Sèvres), or you can save
the department store for a rainy day. It’s just past the
park on your right. There are two huge buildings; be
sure not to miss 36. la Grande Epicerie (38, rue de
Sèvres), located in the second, where you can buy
all the fixings for the ultimate picnic.
19
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
If you take a right on rue de Sèvres, next to the
Lutetia you’ll find 37. la Maison du Chocolat (19, rue
de Sèvres). Next to that you’ll find one of the newest 38. Hermès (17, rue de Sèvres) stores in Paris.
Wander in even if you don’t plan to buy, because the
architecture is amazing. There’s a terribly fancy place
for ladies who lunch to have a small bite inside, but
bring a well-stuffed wallet if you want to be among
them. Across the street is 39. Arnys (14, rue de
Sèvres), a classic French gentlemen’s shop (very
expensive).
Continuing along, you’ll see 40. IKKS (12, rue de
Sèvres), a chain that carries hip and affordable
clothing for men and women. Across the street is 41.
Maje (15, rue de Sèvres), which carries new, trendy
designs. Also on this street, visit 42. Mac Douglas*
(9, rue de Sèvres) for beautiful leather goods, and
43. Gérard Darel (12, rue de Sèvres), which carries
a more mature look and clothing for larger sizes.
Continue on rue de Sèvres and you’ll arrive back
at the “Centaure” statue. For a chance to design
your own belt, visit 44. Losco (5, rue de Sèvres),
where you can pick out the type of leather and buckle you’d like to use. Now cross the street and go
down the next spoke of the star at the Carrefour du
Croix Rouge, and turn to go down rue de Grenelle.
As you circle around and pass rue du Four, you can
take a detour to check out the very feminine looks at
45. Manoush (52, rue du Four) and 46. Repetto (51,
rue du Four), where you’ll find those ballerina flats
that are all the rage.
Once you reach rue de Grenelle, turn left and continue down the street, passing the shoe boutique 47.
Tod’s (44–46, rue du Dragon) on the right. Farther
down the street is 48. COS (3, rue de Grenelle),
owned by H&M, a good stop for eclectic and affordable designs. On the right side is the iconic 49. Sonia
Rykiel (4–6, rue de Grenelle); the first store is for
enfants (children), and the second is for women.
Next door is 50. Borsalino (6, rue de Grenelle), a
store with Italian hats made famous by oh-so-many
gangster movies. Across the street is 51. Prada (5,
rue de Grenelle). In general we don’t recommend
buying non-French goods that can be bought at
home for less, but if you are tempted, go Italian! The
very French 52. YSL (9, rue de Grenelle) can be
found across from Prada, so if you have a high credit
limit, do stop in.
Take a right at rue des Saints-Pères and find 53.
Tara Jarmon (75, rue des Saints-Pères), a
good stop if you’re drawn to an uptown look. Next
door is 54. Sabbia Rosa (73, rue des SaintsPères). She can outfit you in some of the most beautiful undergarments you’ve ever seen, but it will cost
you. Across the street is 55. Baby Buddha (68, rue
des Saints-Pères), a new store that we like for bohemian-style accessories. Back on the other side of
the street is 56. Ventilo (71, rue des Saints-Pères),
well known for blazers for the country gentleman
with a serious bank account.
For a much more rock-and-roll look, cross the street
again to check out 57. IRO (70, rue de Grenelle).
Continue along until you hit 58. Paul and Joe
(62–66, rue des Saints-Pères), one of our favorite
French designers, which carries styles for kids as
well as mom and dad. At No. 69 you’ll notice a little
black sign for 59. Y’s (69, rue des Saints-Pères); if
you’re interested in art and fashion, check out Yohji
Yamamoto’s more affordable designs. Next door is
60. Barbara Bui (67, rue des Saints-Pères), whose
vision is calmer yet still quite fashionable. Across the
street, 61. Karry’O (62, rue des Saints-Pères) offers a varied collection of beautiful jewelry. Next door
is 62. Maison Fabre (60, rue des Saints-Pères),
well known for its leather gloves, which it has been
making since 1924. Continue along rue des SaintsPères to boulevard Saint-Germain, passing 63. JC
de Castelbajac (61, rue des Saints-Pères), known
for fairly outrageous designs for the untimid, and 64.
Zef (55 bis, rue des Saints-Pères), a cute stop for
kids’ clothing.
20
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Turn right onto the famous boulevard Saint-Germain.
At the corner is 65. Sonia Rykiel (175, boulevard
Saint-Germain), where you’ll find shoes and bags. To
the left before you turn you’ll see 66. Etro (177, boulevard Saint-Germain), a designer from Milan. After
the Sonia Rykiel shop, you’ll see 67. Ralph Lauren
(173, boulevard Saint-Germain), which houses a
store as well as a café that is famous for its cheeseburger. If you are missing a taste of home, stop in.
Cross the street and you’ll see another 68. Gérard
Darel (174, boulevard Saint-Germain) store and
69. Façonnable (174, boulevard Saint-Germain), a
shop for the preppy set.
Next you’ll see 70. l’Ecume des Pages (174, boulevard Saint-Germain), one of the most beloved
bookstores in Paris. Although most of the titles are in
French, you can find some travel guides in English
and some wonderful postcards. Then you’ll see the
71. Café de Flore (172, boulevard Saint-Germain)
and, after that, the café 72. les Deux Magots (6,
Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés); across the street is
the 73. Brasserie Lipp (151, boulevard SaintGermain). These are three of the most famous cafés
in Paris and perhaps the world. Each was made
famous by the bevy of writers and historic figures
who ate and drank there, including Chagall, Camus,
Sartre, de Beauvoir and, more recently, Depardieu,
Harrison Ford and many others. Everyone seems to
have had a drink or a coffee at one of them. We, on
the contrary, don’t recommend them, because the
prices are extremely high and the service often rude.
They tend to be classic tourist traps resting on their
laurels. That said, if you must say you were there, try
the Café de Flore, which is still frequented by Parisians and where the service is slightly less rude. You
can end your tour here with a drink. If you still have
some energy, though, turn left at les Deux Magots
and head up rue Bonaparte.
Across the street you’ll see the 74. Eglise Saint-Germain (3, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés). Built in
1014, it’s one of the oldest churches in town. Step inside and have a look around. Back across the street
is 75. Louis Vuitton (6, Place Saint-Germain-desPrés); stop in if you must bring back a little something from the iconic brand. Continue north along
rue Bonaparte and pass rue Guillaume Apollinaire to
find 76. Assouline (35, rue Bonaparte), a wonderful
international book publisher selling its mark only. As
you continue, you’ll see 77. Richart (27, rue Bonaparte), which offers fabulously designed chocolates.
On the right you’ll find 78. Ladurée (21, rue Bonaparte), a good stop for pastries and tea or coffee.
Its world-famous macarons make a wonderful gift,
but they don’t store very well, so pick some up right
before you travel.
Before you reach Ladurée on rue Jacob, don’t miss
79. Simrane (25, rue Bonaparte), where you’ll find
charming French linens, napkins and tablecloths.
Turn right on rue Jacob. Our favorite shop here is
80. Maison Rustique (26, rue Jacob), which has a
green facade and specializes in books about gardening and plants. For very rich kilims and French pottery, stop at 81. Michèle Aragon (21, rue Jacob). If
you want to return home with a piece of history, visit
82. Librairie Signature (17, rue Jacob) and search
for something signed by Dalí or perhaps a famous
French écrivain (author). On the right side, find 83.
Michel Klein (9, rue Jacob), which sells items for
men, women and children and is well known for its
cool glasses. At the end of the block, you’ll find the
two stores of 84. Pierre Frey (5, rue Jacob, and 1,
rue de Fürstenberg), very well known for French
fabrics.
Take a right on rue de Fürstenberg and notice the
charming Square Fürstenberg, one of the most
sought-after places to live in Paris. If you want to
stay here on a future visit, talk to our friends at
Haven in Paris, who have a vacation rental on this
square. Eugène Delacroix lived here in the 1800s,
and the 85. Musée Eugène Delacroix (6, rue de
Copyright 2013 Girls’ Guide To Pris and Doni Belau. All Rights Reserved.
21
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Points of Interest
Fürstenberg) is a small museum dedicated to his
work. Located in his former home, it’s open daily
except Tuesday.
Turning back toward rue Jacob, you can find fun gifts
at 86. Arty Dandy (1, rue de Fürstenberg). Turn
right again on rue Jacob. You’ll come to a little square
with a sphere-shaped fountain. Before that, on the
left, you’ll find 87. Jérôme Dreyfuss (1, rue Jacob),
which carries some of the most sought-after bags in
Paris. Across the street, the designer has another
store for men.
Next to Monsieur Dreyfuss’s store is 88. Ollivary
(1, rue Jacob), a gallery specializing in midcentury
antiques and found objects. Next to the gallery is a
boutique of 89. Isabel Marant, a well-loved and hip
French designer, who is married to Jérôme Dreyfuss.
In her late 40s, she still looks 25!
A great way to end your tour is with un verre de vin,
so take a left on rue de Seine and then a right to find
90. la Palette (43, rue de Seine). In the 1930s and
’40s, la Palette was frequented by artists such as
Picasso, Cézanne and Braque. Before you reach the
resto, notice 91. Galerie Documents (53, rue de
Seine), which sells fabulous old French movie posters and other graphic art. Window-shop the galleries you see along the street. If you continue on rue
de Seine, you’ll reach the Seine and the Institut de
France as well as the beautiful Pont des Arts.
*A Girls’ Guide Travel Club Partner: All GGTP
members receive discounts at these and other locations. For more information about the Girls’ Guide to
Paris Travel Club and the complete list of our
partners (there are more than 200 restaurants,
shops, hotels, spas and more!), please visit
girlsguidetoparis.com/insider/member-benefits.php.
1. Eglise Saint-Sulpice
2. Café de la Mairie: 8, Place Saint-Sulpice
Tel: 01 43 26 67 82
3. Annick Goutal: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice
4. Comptoir des Cotonniers: 12, Place Saint-Sulpice
5. The Kooples: 74, rue Bonaparte
6. Hervé Chapelier: 1 bis, rue du Vieux Colombier
7. Pierre Hermé: 72, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 43 54 47 77
8. Zadig et Voltaire: 1–3, rue du Vieux Colombier
9. Agnès B.: 6, rue du Vieux Colombier
10. Vilebrequin: 5, rue du Vieux Colombier
11. Agnès B.: 12, rue du Vieux Colombier
12. Au Vieux Colombier: 65, rue de Rennes
13. Victoire Homme: 15, rue du Vieux Colombier
14. Marcel Lassance: 17, rue du Vieux Colombier
15. Longchamp: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier
16. Théâtre du Vieux Colombier: 21, rue du Vieux Colombier
Tel: 01 44 39 87 00
17. Le Bon Marché : 24, rue de Sèvres
18. Camper: 25, rue du Vieux Colombier
19. Robert Clergerie: 5, rue du Cherche Midi
20. Maje: 6, rue du Cherche Midi
21. Gerbe: 4, rue du Cherche Midi
22. Poilâne: 8, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 48 42 59
23. La Cuisine de Bar: 8, rue du Cherche Midi
Tel: 01 45 48 45 69
24. Metal Pointu’s 13, rue du Cherche Midi
25. Le Civette: 15, rue du Cherche Midi
26. Lilith: 12, rue du Cherche Midi
27. Cotélac: 17, rue du Cherche Midi
28. Cécile et Jeanne: 16, rue du Cherche Midi
29. N. Villaret: 20, rue du Cherche Midi Tel: 01 45 44 02 50
30. Le Cherche Midi: 22, rue du Cherche Midi
Tel: 01 45 48 27 44
31. Heimstone: 23, rue du Cherche Midi
32. Puyricard: 24, rue du Cherche Midi
33. Kamille: 1, Place Alphonse Déville
34. *Lutetia: 45, boulevard Raspail Tel: 01 49 54 46 90
35. Le Bon Marché: 24, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 44 39 80 00
36. La Grande Epicerie: 38, rue de Sèvres
Tel: 0 1 44 39 81 00
37. La Maison du Chocolat: 19, rue de Sèvres
Tel: 01 45 44 20 40
22
6th Arrondissement
Walking Tour
Points of Interest Cont.
38. Hermès: 17, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 42 22 80 83
39. Arnys: 14, rue de Sèvres
40. IKKS: 12, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 45 44 42 50
41. Maje: 15, rue de Sèvres
42. *Mac Douglas: 9, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 45 48 14 09
43. Gérard Darel: 12, rue de Sèvres
44. Losco: 5, rue de Sèvres Tel: 01 42 22 77 47
45. Manoush: 52, rue du Four Tel: 01 42 22 78 45
46. Repetto: 51, rue du Four Tel: 01 45 44 98 65
47. Tod’s: 44–46, rue du Dragon Tel: 01 53 63 39 00
48. COS: 3, rue de Grenelle Tel: 01 40 48 28 50
49. Sonia Rykiel: 4–6, rue de Grenelle
50. Borsalino: 6, rue de Grenelle Tel: 01 42 22 88
51. Prada: 5, rue de Grenelle Tel: 0 1 45 48 53 14
52. YSL: 9, rue de Grenelle Tel: 01 42 22 67 97
53. Tara Jarmon: 75, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 45 44 36 14
54. Sabbia Rosa: 73, rue des St- Pères Tel: 01 45 48 88 37
55. Baby Buddha : 68, rue des St-Pères
Tel: 01 45 48 08 00
56. Ventilo: 71, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 45 44 18 50
57. Iro: 70, rue de Grenelle Tel: 01 45 48 04 06
58. Paul and Joe: 62–66, rue des St-Pères
59. Y’s: 69, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 45 44 50 00
60. Barbara Bui: 67, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 45 44 37 21
61. Karry’O: 62, rue des St-Pères
62. Maison Fabre: 60, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 42 22 44 86
63. JC de Castelbajac: 61, rue des St-Pères
Tel: 09 64 48 48 54
64. Zef: 55 bis, rue des St-Pères Tel: 01 42 22 02 93
65. Sonia Rykiel: 175, boulevard Saint-Germain
66. Etro: 177, boulevard Saint-Germain Tel: 01 45 48 18 17
67. Ralph Lauren: 173, boulevard Saint-Germain
68. Gérard Darel: 174, boulevard Saint-Germain
69. Façonnable: 174, boulevard Saint-Germain
70. L’Ecume des Pages: 174, boulevard Saint-Germain
Tel: 01 45 48 54 48
71. Café de Flore: 172, boulevard Saint-Germain
Tel: 01 45 48 55 26
72. Les Deux Magots: 6, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Tel: 01 45 48 55 25
73. Brasserie Lipp: 151, boulevard Saint-Germain
Tel: 01 45 48 53 91
74. Eglise Saint-Germain: 3, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés
75. Louis Vuitton: 6, Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés
76. Assouline: 35, rue Bonaparte
77. Richart: 27, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 56 81 16 10
78. Ladurée: 21, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 44 07 64 87
79. Simrane: 25, rue Bonaparte Tel: 01 43 54 90 73
80. Maison Rustique: 26, rue Jacob
81. Michèle Aragon: 21, rue Jacob
82. Librairie Signature: 17, rue Jacob Tel: 01 46 34 92 23
83. Michel Klein: 9, rue Jacob
84. Pierre Frey: 5, rue Jacob, and 1, rue de Fürstenberg
Tel: 01 46 33 73 00
85. Musée Eugène Delacroix: Square Fürstenberg
Tel: 01 44 41 86 50
86. Arty Dandy: 1, rue de Fürstenberg Tel: 01 43 54 00 36
87. Jérôme Dreyfuss: 1, rue Jacob Tel: 01 56 81 85 30
88. Ollivary: 1, rue Jacob
89. Isabel Marant: 1, rue Jacob
90. la Palette: 43, rue de Seine
91. Galerie Documents: 53, rue de Seine
23
Shop Rue St. Dominique and
Grenelle in the 7th
1
24
Grenelle in the 7th
1.
145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard
2.
120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s
3.
129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars
3b.
cont’d
139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant
4.
135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes
5.
108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest
6.
114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille
7.
Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy
8.
115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites
9.
92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou
10.
Rue Cler market street (see also stop #32)
11.
109 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection
12.
107 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi
13.
37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies & Lucie St. Claire
14.
99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central
15.
78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel
16.
78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers
17.
91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice
2
2
25
Grenelle in the 7th
18.
89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples
19.
74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine
20.
22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin
21.
20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco
22.
18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota
23.
68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc
24.
81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom
25.
81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH
26.
10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson
27.
21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret
28.
20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro
29.
17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel
30.
151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles
31.
155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé
32.
Rue Cler market street (see also stop #10)
33.
186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau
34.
194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy
35.
43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine
36.
29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building
37.
22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre
cont’d
3
3
26
Grenelle in the 7th
This stroll can be done in just one hour or
more depending on how much you stop.
Begin at rue St.-Dominique where it intersects with avenue de la Bourdonnais and
avenue Rapp several blocks up from the
metro stop École Militaire. Go over the
tour first, before you set out, and think
about reserving ahead for lunch or dinner
at one of the many fine restaurants we
suggest. This is a wonderful afternoon
tour after seeing the Eiffel Tower in the
morning.
Rue St. Dominique
1. Comptoirs Richard at 145 rue St. Dominique (01 53 59 99 18) is a well stocked tea and
coffee store where you can find some nice gifts
such as Eiffel Tower espresso cups, colored sugars
and Paris cardboard keepsake boxes (there are
several other locations in Paris).
2. Grégory Renard’s shop, at 120, rue St.Dominique, is worth a stop for world-class artisanal
chocolates and macarons.
Rue St. Dominique has one of our favorite bistros in
Paris, 3. La Fontaine de Mars at 129 rue St.
Dominique (01 47 05 46 44). This is the classic redtableclothed bistro serving a good Confit de Canard
(crispy duck leg) and boasting friendly service. Out
of certain windows here you can see the Eiffel
Tower sparkle at night. President Obama has dined
here.
In general, Chef Christian Constant owns this area,
boasting not 1 but 4 restaurants. We like the more
relaxed 3b. Café Constant at 139 rue St. Dominique (01 47 53 73 34) or 4. Les Cocottes at
135 rue St. Dominique (no reservations required at
Les Cocottes).
cont’d
Across from Les Cocottes at No. 108 is 5.
L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest, which would be a
good place to stop if you have a rugby fan in the
family. 6. 7 Famille, at 114, rue St.-Dominique
(01 45 51 73 25), is a small shop that has some
nice gifts, particularly for teenage girls, and a few
pieces of clothing. We like its selection of
Swildens tees.
7. The pharmacy near the corner of St.Dominique and rue Sedillot is a good place to
stock up on Darphin creams or La Roche-Posay
sunscreen. 8. Les Petites, at 115, rue St.Dominique, is wonderful for colorful prints and
cashmeres. Note the 9. St. Pierre du Gros
Caillou church, at No. 92, which was built in the
1800s, and whose chapel was built in the 1700s.
Not particularly old by Parisian standards, but a
charming neighborhood church nonetheless. Not
usually open to the public.
You can turn down rue Cler and head south if you
wish, walking a block to get to the 10. Rue Cler
market street, or wait until later so you can
pick up some fresh picnic ingredients or appetizers on the way home. 11. Venise Collection,
at No. 109, rue St. Dominique, is a shoe store that
sells a well-selected assortment of heels and flats
by Sonia Rykiel, Givenchy and Chloe. 12.
Jacadi, the renowned children’s fashion store, is
at No. 107. 13. Truffes Folies is an épicerie
and restaurant located just off rue St.-Dominique
at 37, rue Malar (01 44 18 05 41). If you are a truffle fan, this is an essential stop.
14. Bar du Central, at 99, rue St.-Dominique,
is a good place stop for un verre or a coffee.
15. Gerard Darel, at No. 78, is a solid French
brand with fashionable finds often available in larger sizes, which is completely abnormal in Paris.
A favorite of Susan Sarandon and Meryl Streep
since 1973.
2
4
27
Grenelle in the 7th
One of our favorite stores in Paris is at 78 rue St.
Dominique, 16. Comptoir des Cotonniers,
for affordable chic Parisian looks. The always chic
17. Bérénice, at number 91, is a fashion find.
18. Kooples is a trendy brand at 89, rue St.Dominique, where you can find younger
“downtown” looks often in black, white or gray. 19.
Lemoine, at No. 74, is a cute little chocolate, nougat and macaron shop, in case you haven’t indulged yet. It’s known for its cannelés, which are
tiny cakes from the Bordeaux region.
Now, turn up rue Jean Nicot for several special
stores. At 22 rue Jean-Nicot (01 45 50 43 54),
you’ll find one of the great florists in a town full of
florists, 20. Eric Chauvin. Next door, 21. Stéphane Secco, whose pain au chocolat was
voted the best in Paris, can be found at 20 rue
Jean-Nicot (01 43 17 35 20). The shop is worth a
look even if you aren’t hungry.
22. Bellota-Bellota, at 18, rue Jean Nicot, is
jamón (ham) heaven and a sublime little Spanish
épicerie and café—if you feel a little Basque coming on, stop in here. Return to rue St.-Dominique
and turn left.
23. Karl Marc, at 68, rue St.-Dominique, is a
lovely new designer on the rue. 24. The Tome
Dom bookstore, at No. 81, is good for books about
Paris and travel, and for cookbooks and comics.
Check out 25. BA&SH, at No. 81, for affordably
chic fashion. Turn right on rue de la Comète and
head toward rue de Grenelle.
Rue de Grenelle
At 10, rue de la Comète, you’ll notice a little bonsai
store that you should enter. Not only does 26.
Bonsaï Rémy Samson have impressive bonsai
and lovely gardening books, but in the back garden
you’ll find a small paradise of Japanese Zen plantings. An oasis of calm beauty.
cont’d
Note the beautiful Beaux Arts and Art Nouveau
architecture of some of the buildings on rue de
Grenelle as you enter this street and make a
right.
Take your first right off rue de Grenelle and turn
right back up rue Amélie to check out the handmade-leather purse store, 27. Catherine
Loiret, at 21 bis, rue Amélie. These ingenious
designs are right for any fashion maven (09 53
65 10 40). As long as you are on rue Amélie,
you might want to pop into No. 20, 28. Mayaro, which has some interesting items for the
French home. On this same street is a new, very
modern hotel, which has reasonable rates beginning at 165 euros, for your return trip to Paris:
29. 7 Eiffel, at 17 bis, rue Amélie (01 45 55 10
01).
Return to rue de Grenelle and turn right. Notice
the 30. exquisite door handles at No.
151, from the Art Nouveau era. The corn-andlizard handles warrant a photo. Continue on
down the rue until you reach No. 155, where
you’ll find 31. Numaé for adorable baby
clothes if you have an infant to buy for (01 47 05
16 96).
When you reach rue Cler, you might want to turn
to your left and peruse this lovely 32. market
street. Selections here are good for picnics or
making a meal in your rented apartment. 33.
Petit Bateau, which you can find in the US, is
at the corner of rue de Grenelle and rue Cler, at
186, rue de Grenelle, if you need to stock up on
the T-shirts that everyone loves and kids’ pj’s.
If you must have your American food fix (think
Pop-Tarts), go to 34. The Real McCoy store
and restaurant at 194 rue de Grenelle (01 45 56
98 62).
As you reach avenue Bosquet, turn right. Here
you will find 35. La Palferine, at No. 43,
3
5
28
Grenelle in the 7th
cont’d
which is an antiques shop that’s worth walking into.
15. 78 rue St. Dominique – Gerard Darel
Turn around and head south to return to the metro
stop Ecole Militaire. If you still have some energy,
you can end your day on avenue Rapp. Return to St.
Dominique and turn left toward Ave de la Boudonnais and turn right when you reach avenue Rapp.
16. 78 rue St. Dominique – Comptoir dse Cotonniers
Notice the gorgeous Art Nouveau building at 36. 29,
avenue Rapp, which is across from 37. Sancerre, at No. 22 (01 45 51 75 91), a solid wine bar
where you can enjoy oysters and old-fashioned ambience, and of course a glass of Sancerre.
Points of Interest Addresses
17. 91 rue St. Dominique – Bérénice
18. 89 rue St. Dominique - Kooples
19. 74 rue St. Dominique – Lemoine
Grenelle, Jean Nicot, and Ave. Rapp
20. 22 rue Jean-Nicot – Eric Chauvin
21. 20 rue Jean-Nicot – Stéphane Secco
22. 18 rue Jean-Nicot – Bellota-Bellota
Rue St. Dominique
23. 68 rue St. Dominique – Karl Marc
1. 145 rue St. Dominique – Comptoirs Richard
24. 81 rue St. Dominique – The Tome Dom
2. 120 rue St. Dominique – Grégory Renard’s
25. 81 rue St. Dominique – BA&SH
3. 129 rue St. Dominique – Le Fontaine de Mars
26. 10 rue de la Cométe - Bonsaï Rémy Samson
3b. 139 rue St. Dominique –Café Constant
27. 21 bis, rue Amélie – Catherine Loiret
4. 135 rue St. Dominique – Les Cocottes
28. 20 bis, rue Amélie – Mayaro
5. 108 rue St. Dominique – L’Esprit du Sud-Ouest
29. 17 bis, rue Amélie – 7 Eiffel
6. 114 rue St. Dominique – 7 Famille
30. 151 rue de Grenelle – exquisite door handles
7. Corner of St. Dominique and rue Sedillot – a pharmacy
31. 155 rue de Grenelle – Numaé
8. 115 rue St. Dominique – Les Petites
32. Rue Cler market street
9. 92 rue St. Dominique – St. Pierre du Gros Caillou
33. 186 rue de Grenelle – Petit Bateau
10. Rue Cler market street
34. 194 rue de Grenelle – The Real McCoy
11. 109 rue St. Dominique – Venise Collection
35. 43 avenue Bosquet – La Palferine
12. 107 rue St. Dominique – Jacadi
36. 29 avenue Rapp – gorgeous Art Nouveau building
13. 37 rue Malar – Truffes Folies
37. 22 avenue Rapp - Sancerre
14. 99 rue St. Dominique – Bar du Central
4
29

The Girls` Guide to Paris Shopping Tour Set

Transcription

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