No. 6 - Capsule

No-6
—June 2013
Nick Wooster has been
called so many things:
God of Street Style, Alpha Male of American
Street Style, Woost God,
Fashion King of Manhattan, The Baddest Ass
Son of a Bitch in Menswear, Legend, Icon (obvi)
and until recently, the Sr.
Vice President of Product
and Design at JC Penney.
Around this office, we just
call him Nick (or Nickelson,
ok or maybe Nicky Dubs),
and Capsule’s Minya Quirk
sat recently with him to chat
about #menswear, personal
style, drop crotch goth, his first
fashion job, those sometimes
cruel internet weirdoes who are
obsessed with him, and why they’ve
got him all wrong.
if women’s wear is any
indication, the signs
are there that in a short
amount of time, it really
will be more of a mainstream thing than it is.
MQ: Here’s hoping. I
mean, I don’t think most
guys are ready for Nanamica and Head Porter Plus
but there’s definitely some
sort of shifting of the cultural tide. NW: The reason
why I think there is hope
and why ultimately this thing
will eventually be more mainstream than it is, is that the
great thing about menswear
and all the Japanese menswear
in particular, is that it’s rooted in
something accessible. Not everyone’s gonna wear drop crotch pants,
but there’s something about a Purple
Label North Face jacket that’s so amazing, so elevated and at the same time offering something that that everyone can appreciate and want. The Japanese dig deep and
are interpreting American heritage brands better
than we are. They master everything. They do their
research and take that education and put it through
this filter and come out with some amazingly executed,
innovative end result. There’s nothing like a hamburger in
Tokyo.
MQ: Has the #menswear movement really trickled down to a mass level or is our “world” really
small? NW: I think menswear’s come out of the
closet. For such a long time, men made such a point
of not boasting about or broadcasting their interest in
looking good. It was the metrosexual moment that loosened
the grip of this idea that guys were somehow no longer afraid to
talk about, look at or geek out about fashion. That, coupled with
the rise of the internet, dovetailed for the perfect storm of…something. Our world is still relatively insulated. I hope that it’s bigger
than I think it is. But the reality is, I think it’s just not there yet. But,
S
S
1
4
PARIS MENS
June 28—30
BERLIN
July 2—3
NEW YORK MENS
July 22—23
LAS VEGAS
Aug 19—20
NEW YORK WOMENS
Sept 15—17
PARIS WOMENS
Sept 27—29
Nickelson Wooster
MQ: Let’s talk about you. Do you have Google alerts of your name
set on your phone? NW: Yes.
continues on the back…
CITÉ DE LA MODE
34 quai d’Austerlitz
POSTBAHNHOF
Straße der Pariser Kommune 8
BASKETBALL CITY
299 South St (at Montgomery St)
THE VENETIAN
3355 S Las Vegas Blvd
BASKETBALL CITY
299 South St (at Montgomery St)
CITÉ DE LA MODE
34 quai d’Austerlitz
—capsuleshow.com
MQ: We’re not talking about JC Penney.
At. All. NW: Ok, thank you.
IN
GOOD
Tom Brunet
General Manager at OFIVE, Paris
Tagline for SS14: Bright and Colorful. Let's
ride and play. Your personal style: Streetwear
and basketball influence a lot my style. But
I like to twist it sometimes with casual,
fashion or classic clothes and accessories.
Hats are what make my style every single
day. Cap or beanie for a street mood, beret or fedora hat for a chic mood, chapka
or hood for a cold mood. This summer I am
looking forward to wearing: a bathing suit because it will mean VACATION. Travelling to:
I am going to South of France, Cap Ferret,
to shoot a fashion story for our next Magazine issue; Miami for the release party of Lil
Wayne and Supra's collaboration. Copenhagen to chill with my friends; Cannes to organize a small OFIVE event during Festival de
Cannes at La Chambre Noir by Belvedere.
Can't complain! Resides in: the most beautiful city in the world, Paris. In the best area
in Paris, the 10th. In an apartment at the
end of a little courtyard. With a big bed, a
small bathroom, a big TV Screen, a lot of
shoes and hats. Recent purchase: I love hats.
I bought a beautiful hat from the French
brand Etudes at the store Coincidence and
I'm about to buy a Pigalle cap—very colorful
for my summer rides. Oh and I just bought
an Oakland Raiders Jersey "PARIS" in the
back, I love it.
Tyler Thoreson
Zohaer Majhadi
Sales & Marketing Consultant; Contributor
AnOtherMan, L'Officiel HOMMES, Paris
Tagline for SS14: Florals everywhere and camouflage! Your personal style: During the day
I will go for a sportswear-chic look. I have
to be everywhere at the same time and so I
need to be comfy! In the evening or during
the week end I will go for a preppy minimal look (Phillip Lim, Acne, Dries Van Noten, APC, Blk Denim, Cos, etc). This summer
I am looking forward to wearing: swimwear by
OKUN…I'm a big fan of swim trunks and especially colorful ones Travelling to: I'm going
to Shanghai in a few weeks. Since December 2012, I have been working on a consulting project for a local shoe firm. Resides in:
Paris in an apartment. Since I'm freelancing, I get to travel A LOT for my jobs. I'm
in Paris maybe one week/a month...I'm still
looking for the perfect FLAT to get. Recent
purchase: That amazing suit from 3.1 Phillip Lim. The jacket comes with a detachable
part. The ensemble looks very athletic and
chic.
VP of Men's Editorial & Creative, Gilt
New Jersey
Please create a tagline for SS14: Clean and
Mean. Your personal style: Public school kid
from the Midwest trying hard not to embarrass himself among all the cool people in
the big city. This summer I am looking forward
to wearing: My off-white linen suit from Martin Greenfield. Travelling to: Pitti should be
fun, but I'm most excited about some serious R&R in the Catskills this summer. My
friend Aaron and I, and our families, are
renting a house out near the Delaware River
Gap over Memorial Day weekend, and later in the summer my wife, kids, and I are
spending a week outside Woodstock, where
she's from. It's good living up there—swimming holes, great food, funky culture, amazing vintage furniture shopping. Resides in:
Lovely, leafy West Orange, NJ. It's not exactly a fashion hotbed (I'm the only guy in the
neighborhood who wears an off-white linen
suit to work), but if you're a five-year-old kid
it's pretty ideal. Decor is forever a work in
progress, but I guess I'd call our vibe modern-meets-Brimfield—Knoll sofa topped by
a Hudson's Bay blanket my grandparents
bought on their honeymoon in Montana,
vintage books, a massive photo print of a
weathered-looking dude and his equally
weathered motorcycle taken on the steppes
of Mongolia by Ryan Holden Signer. Plus
some bunk beds and a crib upstairs, and a
big-ass BBQ grill outside. Recent purchase:
I spent $12 registering a domain name for
a charitable project that's going to make a
real difference in the menswear world over
the next couple years. Stay tuned.
The Broken Arm
Nathan Bui
CO
Actor, but a little bit of everything else,
Bronx
Tagline for SS14: Don't let them see you sweat!
Your personal style: Simple. Heritage with
tailoring. A sea of Indigo mixed with a good
amount of leather. There's a joke amongst
friends that I dress like Justin Bobby from
The Hills. This summer I am looking forward
to wearing: a Panama hat that I got from a
friend on a photoshoot. Travelling to: I am
going back to Vietnam this coming summer
to visit family. And hopefully a trip to Singapore alone for a week to write and explore.
I'm trying to rent a house in Montauk so I
can kick back with friends. And quite possibly a trip to Los Angeles for work. Resides in:
a fairly minimal house. Furnishing is mostly to accommodate a projector and a very
huge movie screen that I recently acquired.
Everything else is vintage from fleas and
markets. Recent purchase: I just got a pair of
the Alden for Epaulet Taunton Captoe Boot
Burnished Calfskin with a commando sole.
I can't think of any words to describe it, it's
just that amazing. And I'm a boot guy.
Photo is by Yewon Kim.
Chris Olberding
Gitman Vintage, New York
Tagline for SS14: Shirtzophrenic—Africana
Tropicalia, Yachting, Pop-art, and propositional pin-ups. Oh, and some summerweight Oxfords. Your personal style: Lots of
navy with an occasional “look-at-me” piece,
e.g. Yuketen leopard penny loafers, Hermes
foulard, Gitman Vintage zebra-camo pants.
This summer I am looking forward to wearing:
short sleeve button-downs. Travelling to:
Ramatuelle, France. To enjoy the sun and
sea and play some tennis on red-clay. Yes,
at a friend’s villa; later will visit Foundation
Maeght. Resides in: the Manhattan sky in a
minimally furnished apartment with a newly acquired Rodchenko. Recent purchase: My
Soviet beauty noted above.
Henrik Vibskov
designer, Copenhagen
Tagline for SS14: Keyhole double vision enlargement laboratorium. Your personal style:
Relaxed, with a hat and colorful socks. This
summer I am looking forward to wearing: the
sunglasses of my mother-in-law. They sport
a colorful flower pattern and a 50s shape.
Travelling to: One of the trips I am looking
forward to is my trip to Oslo in a couple
of months. I am currently designing some
costumes for their theatre. Resides in: the
Nørrebro district of Copenhagen with my
girlfriend and daughter, in an apartment. If
you look around, you can find lots of little
elements and memorabilia from different
art and design projects me and friends have
done over the years. The biggest perk of the
apartment though is its roof-deck. Recent
purchase: Some new Nordic cross-country
skis.
Anais Lafarge, Guillaume Steinmetz and
Romaine Joste are the trio behind Paris’
latest buzzed-about concept shop, The Broken Arm. Located in front of Square du
Temple in the Marais, The Broken Arm offers exclusive product like the recent Nike ×
Undercover Gyakusou collection, as well as
pieces from Kenzo and Patrick Ervell. All
of this alongside a carefully edited selection of magazines, lifestyle products, homeware and art. The Broken Arm proposes a
thoughtful but down-to-earth style of Parisian boutique (including a delicious café)
that’s as eclectic as a finger-on-the-fashionpulse blog come to life. We spoke with the
founders, who are also the minds behind
the blog De Jeunes Gens Modernes.
Why did you open a store?
Guillaume: We see a continuity between the
lifestyle we used to cover on the blog De
Jeunes Gens Modernes and the good stuff
we carry here, fashionwise, but concerning
magazines, decoration and food, too. We
like the idea of a transversality between all
the sides of The Broken Arm.
Romain: We propose a selection of products,
based on our favorites. Gathering these different brands can enlighten some pieces
and lead different audiences to meet here.
Were you inspired by other boutiques or stores?
Romain: First of all, none of us is Parisian,
and we all had in mind these stores in the
provinces we liked to spend time in. Places
where you feel welcome and pleased to chill
in, even when you don’t buy anything.
Guillaume: We especially like the Milan and
NY Prada stores,
where despite the
luxury, you feel the
conviviality of the
places and never
any pressure. The
idea of a wider offering, not only
fashion, but a place
to eat and drink
good coffee, brings
out this idea.
Who is in the kitchen?
Guillaume: Amelie
Darvas is a young
chef who gained
her
experience
from her time at
Bristol and the Mini
Palais. We constantly challenge
her by asking for
a different soup,
salad, and sandwich every day, at
a reasonable price
(around 15€ for a
complete
meal).
Where you see her
making the difference is in the selection and assembling of
rare but genuine products, and in the flavor.
That is always right.
Romain: Behind the bar, we have a barista
who can really talk about the coffee she’s
serving. That was necessary with such a
coffee-supplier as the Norwegian Solberg &
Hansen. The fact is we want to show that
getting high-end products doesn’t have to
be more expensive. Nothing should be overrated; our coffee is the same price as all
coffee in the area.
Words: Gino Delmas
Photos: François Coquerel
BERLIN
Fish Outta
Water
Our friends’ favorite haunts
away from home…
LAS VEGAS
As recommended by Matthew
Breen, CoOwner, Carson
Street Clothiers,
New York
Favorite restaurant: Sage at
City
Center's
Aria (3730 S Las
Vegas Blvd) is
by far and away
my favorite restaurant in Las
Vegas. It perfectly captures a vibrant,
Vegas vibe one would want, and does
outstanding New American cuisine. Best
place for late night drinks in Vegas: A difficult question because my answer varies;
if I’m looking for low-key I almost always
end up at Bellagio's Lily Bar & Lounge
(3600 S Las Vegas Blvd). If I am looking to turn in up a notch I will probably
try my luck at one of Vegas' many clubs.
My favorite is XS at the Wynn (3131 S
Las Vegas Blvd). Favorite stores: No matter how hard I try to stay away I always
find myself roaming around at either The
Crystals at CityCenter (3720 S Las Vegas
Blvd) or The Shops at The Palazzo. Admittedly a bit more commercial than I generally prefer, but always an inspiring experience. Favorite thing to do in Vegas that
doesn't involve work: Whenever I am not
fighting through crowds at trade shows, I
make sure to always take my wife to see
a new show. Vegas is littered with outstanding shows at all times of the day,
I would urge anyone going to Vegas to
dedicate a few hours for a show.
As recommended by Peter Landa, Owner, Black
Sheep Road, Amsterdam
Favorite restaurant in Berlin:
We always go to
the same Italian place across
from
White
Trash, called San
Marco
(Schönhauser
Allee
102), because White Trash is always full
and actually we really like that Italian.
The guy is old school and he serves food
wearing a proper wife-beater with stains
of tomato sauce on it. Best place for late
night drinks in Berlin: I must say Odessa
Bar—weird evenings there when it gets
later and later. After that Club Weekend
(Alexanderstr 5, Mitte) always has a great
party. Berghain (Am Wriezener Bahnhof,
Friedrichshain) for after after. Favorite
mode of transportation: Metro. At night I
take a taxi. Walking is great too! Do you
do any sightseeing? We like to explore the
nightlife. Does that count?
PARIS
NEW YORK
As recommended by Simon Hogeman,
owner,
Tres Bien Shop,
Copenhagen
Favorite restaurant in NY: There's
so many but one
we've been to
a few times is
ABC Kitchen by
Union
Square
(35 E 18th St).
Best place for late
night drinks in NY: “The hottest place”
changes so fast so it's hard to keep up.
We always end up at random bars around
LES/East Village, so that's probably the
best place. Favorite form of transportation:
Everywhere else we use metro way more
than taxis, but in New York it's probably
the other way around. Definitely prefer
walking though. Do you do any sightseeing or touristy stuff when you're here? Not
intentionally but you kind of stumble
upon things everywhere so it's kind of
impossible not to. Favorite store: Prada
at Broadway and Prince (575 Broadway)!
We Get Around
FLORENCE
As
recommended
by Josh Peskowitz.
Fashion
Director,
Bloomingdales,
New York
Favorite restaurant
in Florence: Buca
Mario (Piazza degli
Ottaviani,
16-red)
is one of them. Best
place for late night
drinks: Bar Gilli (1R
Via Roma) in the
summer. Who am I
kidding? Bar Gilli in
the winter too. Favorite form of transportation: I prefer walking. I feel like taxis
are always going in the wrong direction. I
mean, I get lost walking, but getting lost
in Florence is not so bad. Do you ever do
any sightseeing? Unfortunately, no time.
I would love to go into the Uffizi one of
these trips. It's been ages. What stores do
you always hit when you’re in Florence? Santa Maria Novella. I know there's one in
NYC, but it doesn’t compare to the original. Milord. (Via della Scala, 16)
As
recommended
by Angelo Baque,
Brand Director, Supreme, New York
Favorite restaurant:
Robert et Louise
(64 Rue Vieille du
Temple 3e), best
steak in Paris hands
down. It is small
and cramped on the
top floor but that’s
where you want to
sit, right next to the
open flame where
they
cook
your
meat. Best place for late night drinks: Le
Pompon (39 rue des Petites Ecuries 10e)
of course. My brother Charaf Tajer owns
this nightclub and it feels like home every time I go. They are also kind enough
to let me dj every time I come into town.
Favorite form of transportation while in
town & why do you prefer that mode of transport: Taxi. I still feel like a dumb tourist
no matter how many times I go to Paris. I
still enjoy looking at all the architecture
and landmarks like the Eiffel Tower. Secret shop: No name for it that I know of
but there is a book flea market every Sunday in the 15th. I found an old 80's book
that was solely on the Porshe 911, which
has been my dream car since Rick Ross
rapped about it…I’m kidding. I'm an 80's
baby, what other car symbolizes excess
and money any better?
Summer
Playlist
S
U
M
M
E
R
by Paris-based DJ MANARE
Team Capsule travels for work, but always tries to
tack a few extra days onto a biz trip to unwind in
exotic locales. Check out some of our team’s most
recent jaunts. #humblebrag
DJ Manare is a fixture on Paris' underground club scene. Here are his recommendations for summer listening.
01| J Capri ft. Charly Black — Whine
Courtney went to the Amalfi Coast
“Sorrento was surprisingly my favorite stop on my rainy tour of the
Amalfi coast last March. After spending time in the beautiful, super
sleepy towns of Positano, Praiano, and Montepertuso, Sorrento’s
energy and metropolis-like setting (okay, relatively speaking) was
very much welcome. Also, Capri is a 20 minute ferry away, which is
a pretty awesome day trip. We stayed in a very central hotel called
Antiche Mura that offered up the best customer service I’ve found
at any proper hotel in Europe (B&Bs excluded, of course). I’ll go
back to the Amalfi coast someday, probably in September, as that’s
when the locals tell me it’s a pure Utopia.”
Stay at: Antiche Mura
Via Fuorimura, 7 80067 Sorrento Province of Naples, Italy
+39 081 807 3523 | hotelantichemura.com
06| Tammi Terell — That's What Boys
Are Made For
Classic slow track. I listen to it when I
wake up. It gives me good energy for
a full day.
Chris went to Morocco (with Dirty)
"Marrakech's medina, the center of the old city, is the most intense
place I've ever been. On the small streets within the maze of the
medina an entire city of people bump and nudge their way past
merchants and their goods sprawled along the path, donkey carts,
Taisha went to Istanbul
mopeds whizzing by, and third world insanity. You can’t forget the
“Beyond its physical separation into an Asian side and a European
side, Istanbul is a city full of juxtapositions: East vs. West, old vs. smell; a mix of donkey, dust, and cookfires burning poop for fuel.
Tourists shop in the Souks to find great deals on "handmade" Monew, and high-brow vs. low-brow—every day was the perfect pitch. I
roccan rugs, slippers, spices, and other trinkets, but most of it is
spent most of my trip on the European side of the city in a rented
mass produced and worth skipping. Essaouira, the port city also
apartment a few minutes away from Galata Tower. My host was an
exceptionally kind and especially quiet Turkish guy named Izel, known as Mogador, is rough and rundown but far more chill than
Marrakech and much cooler. The city's walls seem to jut directly
who's been training as a fighter for the past 20+ years. He was a
out of the sea. Clusters of royal blue fishing boats pack the mavery willing tour guide and happily walked us through mosques
rina where fish mongers sell the day's catch and stray cats live like
and museums, and perhaps just as importantly, treated us to the
kings."
best meatballs and baklava in town.”
Stay at: Dar Charkia in Marrakech
49-50 Derb Halfaoui, Bab Doukkala
+(212) 524 37 64 77 | darcharkia.com
Stay at: Casa Lo Bueno
Mesrutiyet Cad. No 98/8, Sishane Beyoglu
[email protected]
Parabellum: Day Bag
Mismo: Ace Duffel
Penfield: The Irondale
Duffels are a great bag for a quick business
trip because they look fresh, and hold a lot
of gear without being cavernous. Mismo
keeps it tough in the brand’s signature, super thick canvas. A front panel in rich leather keeps the look super fancy.
Buzzy label Parabellum serves up an uber
luxe, super textured, richly hued bag made
from hand-treated, free-range Bison leather. You’ll even want to stroke the handsome
suede interior. Keep a close eye on this
beauty at the airport; it’s scrumptious.
This carryall takes its shape from a classic
American gym bag. In nylon cordura with
faux leather trim, we love its generous size
that’s roomy enough for any quick trip. An
adjustable shoulder strap can be used for
carrying heavier loads, then clipped off and
stashed when not in use.
J. Panther Luggage Co:
The Perfect Weekender Bag
We travel a lot. So we’re happy to have a
new blog dedicated to our particular breed
of Up In The Air lifestyle, in the form of DJ ATrak’s new infinitelegroom.com. Homegirl
Hana May, the site’s EIC, gave us some of
her travel preferences and quick tips:
With one portfolio-style section for documents and a lappy, and another, wider compartment for one’s overnight needs in luxe
Horween leather, this stunner meets international size regulations for carry-on luggage, so you can get right into town.
Veilance: Nomin Pack
It sucks when your new luggage looks like
crap after only a handful of trips, right? The
new Nomin Pack from Veilance is built to
last with its waterproof, super lightweight,
and super resilient fabric, and for that we’re
grateful. Defined places for your Mac, plus
multi-use options that become fully operational with the user’s input; this is true performance gear.
07| Manaré — Riddle
Don't wanna say too much about this
one. Just dive into the universe and
hopefully you'll start dancing alone in
your bedroom.
08| Floating Points — Wires
Beautiful as usual, Floating Points is
back and you just gotta love it.
09| Coni — Flip
Another forthcoming ClekClekBoom
material! Mister Coni (CCB002), fresh
prince of house is back for a smooth
release right in between deep and
ghetto and it's BIG!
10| Kelis ft. Raphael Saadiq — Glow
Can't get tired of this track. Been listening to it pretty much every sunny
day there was ever since I re-discovered it! This track just never ages.
1—When Capsule kicks off in Paris, a lot of
us will be on the road for weeks. What’s
the one essential clothing item you should
pack for a long trip away from home?
I'm a fan of a crisp, clean white tee. Roll
the sleeves for variety.
2—How long is it possible to live out of a
carryon?
A week and a half, then you start looking
and smelling like a This-is-My-First-TripThrough-Europe Backpacker.
3—OK. Now some quick picks: What’s your
preferred airline?
Jet Blue
photo cred: Justin Bridges
New bags, perfect for tripping, from some of
our Capsule designers…
The Haul
Featuring a leather front, hand-cut leather
straps, hand pounded rivets, and heavy-duty 18 ounce canvas, this rugged backpack
is made in a 102-year-old factory in Duluth,
MN, and comes with a lifetime guarantee.
Perfect for stashing a laptop and the recent
issue of Arena Homme Plus you just copped
at Hudson News.
03| Joy O — BRTHDTT
Been waiting for this track for a
loooooong time. It's going in each and
every one of my sets!
05| Piu Piu — Almighty Sun
Summer is back and so is Piu Piu with
a solid mixtape. If you're not in love
yet, take the time to listen and let her
penetrate. Beautiful.
Travel Tips
Duluth Pack: Backpack
02| Drake — No New Friends
Big crush on the new Drake. I wasn't
sure about his comeback with "started
from the bottom" but this leads me
to think the next album’s gonna be
amazing.
04| Aethority — Get Busy
Forthcoming ClekClekBoom material.
Coming out in July. I really love the
voices and melodies on it.
R
T
R
A
V
E
L
& Kotch
This track represents my recent
immersion into the dancehall movement! It’s the perfect summer track to
me. I’m probably gonna play it until
next December or so, ha!
4—Aisle or window?
Always window. Nap time!
5—What do you buy at Hudson News?
Water and gum.
6—What’s your favorite hotel?
The Crosby Street Hotel
7—What kind of luggage do you carry?
I have someone carry it for me. Duh.
2
1
E-Cigs
For All
3
by Steve Dool
Electronic cigarettes, the
tar-less, liquid nicotine-filled
vaporizers meant to mimic the
experience of actually sucking
down a Marlboro Red, have been
gaining momentum for the last
few years. The fashion crowd
is notoriously pro-smoking,
but several brands have been
making strides toward making
e-cigs more of a lifestyle change
and less of a novelty. Who does
it best? We test drive a few leading brands to see who comes
out on top.
5
Njoy
Flavor: Menthol Bold
Packaging: Small plastic flip top
Celebrity Endorsement:
Courtney Love
The Look: Just like a real cigarette, faux filter and all
Taste: Satisfying with a nice
menthol punch
Pros: The plastic case is easy to
carry with you; the e-cig itself
is so natural-looking that you
don’t look like a huge loser
smoking it in public
Cons: It’s so fun to smoke that
you might actually end up needing real cigs to wean you off of
the e-cigs
Overall Rating: 5 puffs out of 5
Logic
Flavor: Black Label Regular
Tobacco
Packaging: A laminated card;
they didn’t spend a lot of time
on this one
Celebrity Endorsement: None!
The Look: All black with a blue
light; a bit longer than Blu but
otherwise virtually the same
Taste: Like a recently discovered cig from a pack you hid 6
months ago in a failed attempt
to quit
Pros: Refillable cartridges are
available, so you don’t need to
buy a whole new piece when you
run out; some models also have
a USB recharger
Cons: That taste is really brutal.
Enough to make you never want
to smoke again. So, maybe pro?
Overall Rating: 2 puffs out of 5
WINNER
NJOY!
Berlin: Donut Shop
New York: Esquire TV
The Donut Shop, Capsule’s pop up cash and carry section that’s
been a staple at the New York show for several seasons, will be debuting in Berlin in July, featuring a selection some very cool craftspeople and retailers. Stop by and sample books and magazines
from indie bookshop Do You
Read Me; pick up some small
batch paper goods
and unusual teas from
Paper & Tea; inhale exclusive scents
created by Frau
Tonis
Parfums;
sample homemade hooch at
Fräulein Brösels Schnapserwachen; buy
your
girlfriend
or yourself a
beautiful floral
bouquet
at
Brutto
Gusto;
and check out
what the freshobsessed folks
over at the Laundry Detergent
Project are up to.
The Donut Shop
is a gathering of
things we love,
available to purchase
and inspire. It’s so
much more than
stuff—it’s product that
make us excited
in so many ways. Sort of like a good donut.
Seeing a hole in the TV entertainment industry for its male-minded
reader, Esquire magazine will launching a cable network this summer geared toward providing original content for men. Set to debut
with some competitive cooking (Knife Fight), a travel show helmed
by celebrities (The Getaway), and How I Rock It, a fashion show
hosted by none other than NBA star Baron Davis.
London: Shoreditch
Visitors to London are definitely advised to hit
Shoreditch. The neighborhood (accessed by the
Shoreditch High St stop on the tube) is undergoing a cultural renaissance, boasting top boutiques, furniture shops and restaurants, while
still holding on to a bit of East End grit. On the
high street, shop for designer homewares at
Milk (118 Shoreditch High St E1 6JN, 020 7729
9880/milkconceptboutique) or curated menswear and excellent coffee at Eddie Prendergast’s
shop Present (140 Shoreditch High St, London E1
6JE, 020 7033 0500/present-london.com). On nearby
Redchurch St, check out designer menswear at Hostem
(41-43 Redchurch St, London E2 7DJ, 020 7739 9733/hostem.
co.uk) and well-designed, timeless products carefully sourced and
presented at Labour & Wait (85 Redchurch St, London E2 7DJ, 020
7729 6253/labourandwait.co.uk). Pop in to say hi to our Capsule
family at Aesop (5A Redchurch St, London E2 7DJ, 020 7613 3793/
aesop.com/uk). Après shopping, get arty at Nelly Duff Gallery (156
Columbia Rd, London E2 7RG, 020 7033 9683/nellyduff.com) and
finish off with a pint at Golden Heart (110 Commercial St, London
E1 6LZ, 020 7247 2158).
Kobe: Channel Kobe
The City of Kobe is supporting its long history of textile production and fashion manufacturing with Channel Kobe—an initiative
to nurture young Japanese designers working in that city. Channel
Kobe will be featuring the SS14 collections of select Kobe based
designers, including Cabelami, No,No, Yes!, orSlow, Seminead and
Ryu at Capsule Paris this June.
Milan: Marni Chairs at Salone
Launched at the Salone del Mobile in Milan for Spring 2013, Marni’s 100 Chairs collection is a selection of chairs, lounge chairs,
rocking chairs and tables woven with brightly hued PVC cord. The
chairs are constructed by former Colombian prison inmates as a
way to help them resettle into social and work life. This is Marni’s
second season to offer the limited run of chairs, but this is the first
time the brand will incorporate pint size seats for children along
with the adult-sized selection.
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Paris: How to Boil an Egg
How to Boil an Egg is a collection of simple and unusual recipes for
cooking eggs from Paris’ incomparable Rose Bakery. Renowned
English chef Rose Carrarini highlights her favorite ways of using
eggs—those complete and most nourishing of ingredients—and
delves into classic techniques for basics (poaching, scrambling
and frying) as well as egg-inclusive muffins, pancakes, tarts, gratins, cakes and puddings. Chic and yummy.
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Everywhere: Model Clement Chabernaud
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Maybe it’s because he reminds us of an edgy Brandon Walsh from
Beverly Hills 90210, but we can’t get enough of French model
Clement Chabernaud, who made his fashion debut on
the runway of Dior Homme in 2005. Since then he’s
been photographed by the world’s top photographers including Willy Vanderperre and Mario
Sorrenti and starred in the campaigns of And
Z by Ziozia, Lacoste, Balmain,Valentino, and in
AW13 presentations of Mark McNairy New Amsterdam, and Shades of Grey by Micah Cohen,
among countless others.
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Garderobe
The White Briefs
Shoes Like Pottery
Buddy
Alex Mattsson
Quality Mending
Laurenceairline
Venroy
Eleven Paris
Paris: Keith Haring Retrospective
If you missed the Brooklyn Museum’s retrospective last summer, don’t miss Haring in Paris. The Musée d’Art Moderne de la Ville de Paris,
in association with Le CENTQUATRE, is devoting a
wide-ranging retrospective to American artist Keith
Haring (1958-1990). With over 250 works on display, this
is one of the biggest exhibitions of the artist’s work including
his paintings, graffiti, drawings, and sculptures.
New Brands
Garderobe garderobeclothing.co.uk
Top: Keith Haring Retrospective, Marni Chair, How to Boil an Egg
Bottom-Right: Model Clement Chabernaud
Blu
Flavor: Classic Tobacco
Packaging: Oddly black for a
brand called Blu
Celebrity Endorsement:
Stephen Dorff
The Look: Thin and black; tip
lights up blue with every inhale
Taste: Crisp, woodsy, clean
Pros: Made in the USA. And
who doesn’t look up to Stephen
Dorff when it comes to making
responsible life decisions?
Cons: The e-cig itself is long and
very conspicuous; the bright
blue light makes you look like a
pro-nicotine wizard
Overall Rating: 3 puffs out of 5
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Happening
Now
Created to bridge the gap between fast, disposable fashion and luxury super brands,
Garderobe is a premium menswear brand
based in London. The brand’s SS14 collection is focused on reinventing classic
menswear wardrobe staples—think well-cut
trousers, sexy knits and slim fit suits—and
takes inspiration from Modernist European
architecture of the mid 20th century.
The White Briefs thewhitebriefs.com
The intellectual manifesto behind The White
Briefs is almost as compelling as the collection itself. Designed in the harbor town
of Osterlen in Southern Sweden, The White
Briefs is designed with the aim of “a continued meaningful exploration of opulent
utility garments, effortlessly elegant yet
maturely sophisticated.” Using carefully selected fine wool ribs, organic sheers, heavy
cotton rib and jersey in a palette of precise
colors and stripe details, The White Briefs
offers a new perspective on how to dress—
with dramatically beautiful wardrobe building blocks including undergarments, shirting, suits and knits for men and women.
Shoes Like Pottery shoeslikepottery.com
Wait? These shoes are like what? The raw
rubber outsoles are fired in a 120°C (248°F)
kiln for 70 minutes, similar to, you know,
pottery. The extreme heat and pressure
causes the sulfur mixed inside the raw
rubber to chemically react, returning the
rubber to its original shape. This process,
called ka-ryu makes it possible to handcraft small batches of some of the world’s
finest vulcanized shoes. Made by Moonstar,
which was founded in Kurume, Japan in
1873, Shoes Like Pottery offers authentic
Japanese craftsmanship and know how in
every pair. Crafty!
Buddy buddyhappy.com
Buddy footwear just wants to make you
happy. The Japanese brand’s popular Buddy Corgi Low style is sleek, lo-tech and
designed for comfort. Its upper comes
in a rainbow of smile-inducing colors cut
from double thick cow suede with Tochigi
vegetable tanned leather trim. The 100%
natural rubber outsole is soft and strong.
With an eye on conserving space and natural resources, Buddys don’t come in a shoe
box; instead they’re packed in space saving
vacuum packs—allowing retailers to keep
more stock in a smaller amount of space.
We’re smiling already.
Alex Mattsson alexmattsson.com
Alex Mattsson is one of the rising stars
in London’s emerging menswear design
scene. Half Swedish, half Colombian, and
raised in Norway, Mattson’s global outlook
plays a big part in his other-worldly designs
that exaggerate and reinvent menswear.
Speaking a thoroughly modern fashion
language that’s inspired by London’s club
and street scenes, Mattson’s aesthetic is
informed by a youth spent reading i-D and
Dazed & Confused. Think super baggy,
street-inflected zoot suits, hypercolor biker
jackets, oversized workwear staples and upscale gangster looks cut in leather.
European materials give the collection its
signature look and feel. Chauvin-Buthaud
trains local people to produce high quality
garments following international standards
in the brand’s manufacturing facility in Abidjan in the Ivory Coast. Global in the best
way.
The Quality Mending Co
Venroy venroy.com.au
Australian board shorts with cool prints
and colors; that’s what Venroy is all about.
Made in Australia with acute attention to
quality, style and function, Venroy offers
a well-cut, thoughtfully engineered board
short that hits just above the knee. Prints
are designed exclusively for the brand and
range from surfside conversation starters
like digital stingrays and Turkish mosaics
to styles flecked with Egyptian symbols.
thequalitymendingco.com
Vintage dealer Oliver Harkness has been
selling vintage American fashion for over
a decade in downtown Manhattan. Now he
has a collection of denim and sportswear
inspired by his favorite pieces. A key item
for SS14 will be a new jean, called the Norman Selby, named for the famous boxer
from the turn of the 20th century. The Norman Selby will be produced in a series of
fabrics including standard Cone Mills White
Oak denim, Cone Mills over dyed denim,
Japanese herringbone twill and several
other varieties and colors. Get excited.
Laurenceairline laurenceairline.com
Maybe the African continent doesn’t immediately spring to mind when thinking
of fashion as we know it, but designer Laurence Chauvin-Buthaud is out to change all
of that with her collection Laurenceairline.
The Paris-based brand mixes European tailoring with the designer’s own African heritage and the entire range is produced in Africa. Using African pagne fabric alongside
Eleven Paris elevenparis.com
This French label is celebrating 10 years
of drawing inspiration from art, music and
underground culture for its ultra contemporary collection for men and women. The
brand is represented by some of the rock
world’s most famous daughters including
Lizzy Jagger, Zoe Kravitz, and Alexandra
and Theodora Richards and it’s not hard
to tell why; Eleven Paris has been perfecting le cool for a decade, and it shows. With
boutiques all over France and a recently
opened one in London, now’s your chance
to take this brand to your people.
BPMW
80 8th Ave/Ste 202
New York, NY 10011
able to change the
proportion, you’re
able to create a
style, Tom Ford
and Thom Browne
have shown us
that–Rick Owens
and Renee at RTH,
it’s the same idea;
they’re both designing within the
bounds of menswear and totally
relevant though
through different
filter and equally
interesting.
Different is necessary. Not every six
weeks but necessary.
MQ: Are you the Kim Kardashian of menswear? What’s with all the commenters on
pictures of or articles about you? I’m sure
it’s flattering. But weird, no? Does it make
you crazy? NW: The comments have been
heinous lately. I recognize that to someone
who doesn’t know my history, maybe I seem
like this guy who gets dressed up for the
internet. In some ways I get it, but it bothers me that anyone would think that I’m
all about getting my picture taken. I sleep
at night because I know I’m qualified to
oversee creative direction and get product
made. I did this the hard way. I have worked
my entire life in this business and I’ve done
the work–from being on the selling floor to
learning to speak Italian to work with manufacturers with John Bartlett. I’ve done it
all. I’ve paid my dues.
MQ: How did you nurture your personal
style? (This is a really lame question, I’m
sorry.) NW: I mean this when I say it, I didn’t
do anything. I like clothes. When I realized
as a child that you had to wear them, and
it takes the same amount of effort to look
good or not, I figured out long ago that I
only wanted stuff that I loved and looked
good in. Listen, my father was a mechanic.
He worked in a garage. I knew very early
that if I had to work, and I did, I’d work in
a clothing store to get the good stuff that
I wanted, and that’s all I did. I was just
stupid. I didn’t know any other way. If you
keep buying stuff that you love, eventually you‘re going to have a wardrobe, or a
garden–I always make this garden analogy,
but of course I don’t garden–that is really
beautiful. I’ll never forget my transition
from pleated pants to plain front pants, it
was the late 80s. I couldn’t get rid of those
pleated pants fast enough. I didn’t have the
means to do it all at once, so I wore one pair
of tropical weight wool grey pants with everything. You could say I’m doing the same
thing now with drop crotch pants. It’s like,
‘oh shit, how am I gonna get some more of
these quicker!’
MQ: So you’re going for it, the Rick Owens look. Drop crotch goth. NW: I have to
say, they’re comfortable. I understand the
sweatpants thing, but this is more stylish.
I like the ones that are constructed like
proper trousers. It’s different. I always liken
menswear to a box–the designers that are
able to push to the edge of the box, like
Hedi Slimane, Rick Owens, Miuccia Prada,
Hiroki at Visvim, they’re pushing and evolving the shape and thus creating new silhouettes that are still relevant. But it’s a fine
line, and the second you go over, it’s not relevant. This is true in women’s too, if you’re
MQ: We’re in the
business of selling fashion, so I
appreciate trends and the cyclical nature
of fashion–but I feel like there’s a strong
sense of personal style absent from the
blogosphere. The flip-flopping between
dress shoes and sneakers, the graphic tees
versus the Italian suiting. On one hand,
it’s sweet because these kids are learning
about different niches or strains of fashion,
different trends–which all come in and out,
and you know this if you’re around long
enough–but on the other hand, I find it all
indicative of some sort of lack of real style.
But that’s part of growing into manhood, I
MQ: I mean, with an 80s trend, get yourself a neon wallet and forego the head to
toe thing. Take a little piece. NW: When we
started carrying Rick Owens at Bergdorf’s,
I thought our customer wouldn’t wear a
drop crotch, so we bought heavy with leather jackets because the feeling is, anyone
can wear that with jeans. But you can also
take that pant and wear it with a regular
tee. There are ways to mold an idea, a trend
if you will (I hate that word), something that
feels new, by just taking one element.
MQ: Let’s circle back to the shorts? You love
shorts. NW: They’re more comfortable. And
I don’t hate my legs. And I like that they’re a
little off-putting. The minute it’s nice, 75 degrees, it’s shorts weather. They’re the closest I can get to wearing a skirt.
MQ: What were you wearing in high school?
NW: It was the 70s. I don’t need to say
much. Those photo printed shirts, there’s
a reason why a nylon shirt is not comfortable; they don’t wear well. I did a little of
that, but I got with the religion of preppy, or
classic dressing pretty early on. I worked at
a clothing store in my hometown of Salina,
Kansas as a junior in high school. It was
called Joseph P. Roth and Sons Clothiers,
the nicest store in town. While I always had
some inherent sense of what looked good,
they helped shape my wardrobe back then;
I wore Gant shirts, Trafalgar belts and chinos all through high school.
MQ: Did you come to New York right after finishing college in Kansas? NW: Six
"It bothers me that anyone would
think that I’m all about getting
my picture taken…
I did this the hard way."
suppose. What advice can you give to these
young bucks? NW: The great thing about
being 52, is that I’ve made a lot of (costly)
mistakes. I don’t need everything, I need
the things that work for me. It’s why uniforms are so appealing. They’re liberating.
I rallied against a suit and tie my whole life,
but when I went to Neiman’s and Bergdorf
I was forced back into that uniform; it actually helped me shape a style that works and
now I choose it. I know that if I wear a jacket and take three minutes to put on a tie,
I’ll look infinitely better. When it’s business
on the top and party on the bottom, the
sartorial mullet if you will, well, that works
for me. That’s what dressing is all about–
finding what works for you. I’ll wear Thom
Browne forever, it seems made for me. Tom
Ford on the other hand, I love his work but
it looks…different on me.
MQ: I agree. I love the idea of knowing
what works. I guess it does come with age.
Though it’s hard to just say no to trends
sometimes, especially if you love fashion. I
mean, straight up tomboy style is not for
me. Period. I can’t do it. You have to put
blinders on and know your limits. Acid wash
mom jeans are great on the young Brooklyn
girls, but come on. NW: They were bad then
and they’re bad now. Of course youth can
allow for a multitude of everything. An 18
year old girl can wear anything. But that
same girl at 35 can’t go to that same place.
Well, I probably shouldn’t wear shorts but
I’ve loved them all my life.
months after. I was in journalism school
and moved here to work in advertising at
Saatchi & Saatchi where I worked on Proctor and Gamble packaged goods. It was the
most horrible work experience for me. I was
going to be Darren Stevens from Bewitched,
but that just didn’t pan out. I wasn’t meant
to do it. I didn’t know anything about
the fashion business per se, but in 1986
a friend asked what I wanted to do and I
thought, I could be a buyer. I knew how to
do that. At the shop in Kansas they clocked
that I was gay, and said, “Nicky has taste!
Pick the best ones. Nicky, here are some
ties, pick the best ones!” And I had a knack
for it. They had taken me on some buying
trips–so years later, in the back of my mind,
I knew I could do it. I landed a job through a
friend on the sales floor at Saks and then at
Barney’s under Peter Rizzo as a buyer’s assistant and got promoted quickly. It was an
amazing time, in the late ‘80s there, when
it was a single store.
MQ: I used to go to Barney’s on Saturdays
to hang out and soak it all in, when I was
in high school. I just loved it. NW: On any
given Saturday in the late 80s, everyone in
New York was in Barneys. It was like a night
club.
MQ: I think I got into the fashion industry
just based on the fact that I‘ve always loved
shopping. Kind of scary, but what can I say?
NW: What are my interests, right? Shopping.
It’s true–I make no bones about it; I’m shal-
low. It’s part of my job, but it’s also my passion. I like clothes and stores and stuff. And
the only way to know about it is to see it.
There are lots of people to know about and
do lots of things. When it comes to worship,
I choose the temple of the store. I wish it
was more interesting, or that I was more
clever.
MQ: Ok so let’s talk retail right now–what’s
good out there? NW: My top three favorite
stores are all on the West coast right now.
Unionmade in San Francisco, Union and
RTH in LA.
MQ: Todd is killing it at Unionmade. I can’t
believe how good it is. When I visited over
the holidays the cacophony of ringing registers and the lines of people who want a
taste of what he’s selling; it really affirms
the fact that you can do it, if you do it well.
NW: He’s so good and so nice. It’s the secret
sauce of menswear–everyone is really nice.
Which is totally different from other parts
of the business. I love it. Chris at Union
in LA too. He’s just an amazing merchant
who has his finger on a bunch of different
things and it’s an interesting mix. Rene at
RTH, it’s the same idea but he makes most
of his stuff. All three of them are the nicest
guys. I also love Nepenthes in NY, they do
an amazing job. Daike and the team were
so good to me, when we have collaborated.
I think HW Carter is great. Carson Street
Clothiers, too. Brian again, such a nice guy
that I am so impressed by.
MQ: Last three (or so) purchases.
NW: I bought the Ovadia and Sons blue
shorts with bleach stains on them, at Carson Street. I bought both the Celine AND
the Undercover haircalf leopard-printed
slip on sneakers. And four pairs of Rick Owens pants.
MQ: What kinds of hobbies or things do you
do in your free time? Something that has
nothing to do with fashion. Tell me you’re a
bird watcher or something. NW: I’m a faggot
watcher on Fire Island. I don’t do anything
else. Movies and food.
MQ: So what’s your food obsession right
now? Juice? Kale? NW: Steak! Josh Peskowitz took me to the Strip House recently for
an amazing meal. Steak and potatoes is my
idea of good food.
MQ: So butch. NW: I’m from Kansas. I also
love Isodi on Christopher Street. Italian. Delicious.
MQ: Travel plans for the summer?
NW: I’m going to Pitti and then I plan on
living at the beach (on Fire Island). I’m a
squatter. One of my best friends just bought
a house in the Pines so I’ll be there.
MQ: You better start planning your outfits
for Pitti. NW: Please, that’s not an issue. I
got clothes.
MQ: You’re a free man! What’s your next
dream job? NW: Something all my own.
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