Online shopping spree Jay Chou`s era Avoiding travel hassles
Transcription
Online shopping spree Jay Chou`s era Avoiding travel hassles
CHANGING ASIA POPLAND Online shopping spree Jay Chou’s era TRAVEL BITES Avoiding travel hassles M ARCH 11-24, 2011 JAPAN’S MORAL STRUGGLE US$3 / Bt100 ISSN 19052650 9 771905 265009 07311 07311 PHOTO by A F P At work I don’t have a choice of where I sit But with Star Alliance Upgrade Awards Across 20 of our member airlines worldwide Now I do. I’ve earned it. Tak u m a Sato I n ternat ional raci ng d ri ver and Star A l l ian ce Gol d Statu s staral l ian ce.com Where To Japan? J apan is similar to a man facing a mid-life crisis. Formerly the world’s No. 2 economy until China surpassed it this year, the Land of the Rising Sun is facing one crisis after another, ranging from politics to economy, business and sports—with all these threatening its culture and moral fibre. This week, foreign minister Seiji Maehara resigned over illegal political donations from a foreign national. This has dealt another blow to Prime Minister Naoto Kan’s faltering government, which has been losing public support. According to a recent survey by The Yomiuri Shimbun, Kan’s Cabinet’s approval rating has dropped further to 24 per cent, the lowest figure since the inauguration of his administration in June. As much as 51 per cent of respondents wanted Kan “to step down at an early time”. If this happens, Japan will once more be thrown into a political spin, creating a pattern of changing prime ministers every year since 2006 when Junichiro Koizumi stepped down. It would seem that the problems that its various sectors are facing— from corruption in its revered sumo world, cheating in school exams, illegal donation of foreign nationals—are but symptoms of a far deeper problem that plagues Japan, not only its government but its people in general. A lot of things in the country are still trapped in tradition, like sumo—its national sport. There is nothing wrong with tradition but time waits for no one and the world is changing. Japan cannot rest on its previous achievements nor can it allow itself to wallow on its failures. It has not entirely lost its power and position on the global stage. But it needs to revitalise itself and just like anyone going through a mid-life crisis, now is the time for reflection and reassessment in order to put itself back on track. Asia News Network [email protected] MARCH 1 1 -24, 201 1 • V o l 6 N o 5 COVER STORY Japan’s Moral Struggle P8 PH OTO by AFP From sumo match-rigging to exam cheating— Japan is plagued by scandals. Restoring the tainted image of its institutions is becoming difficult THE VIEW P7 CHANGING ASIA P24 POPLAND P36 TRAVEL BITES P44 Never Say Never Will Southeast Asia make a repeat of its past revolutions? Online Shopping Spree More Asians are picking up goods from online stores Avoid Travel Hassles A few points to remember before hitting the road F E AT U R E S Jay Chou’s Era The Taiwanese superstar marks 10 years of his music with a $15-million-world tour SPECIAL REPORT P16 MUSIC P30 ENTERTAINMENT P38 Walking A Tightrope Indonesia is faced with rising religious intolerance Time To K-pop Western artists, producers turn to K-pop to expand overseas markets Protean Actors Only a handful Indian actors can shuttle between action and comedy POLITICS P20 PEOPLE P34 TRAVEL P42 Asean On The Rise The bloc has set a precedent by tackling the border dispute between Thailand and Cambodia Advice For A Rising Star Mentor Oprah Winfrey advises Charice not to fall in love yet Riding High Money is not an issue for China’s wealthy who opt for over-the-top travel packages EXPLORE P48 Abode Of The Gods Nepal’s Annapurna mountain range is nothing short of magical Copyright © 2006 of Asia News Network. All rights reserved. AsiaNews (ISSN 1905-2650) is a weekly magazine. Printed by WPS (Thailand) Co, Ltd Subsidiary of Nation Multimedia Group Plc. WRITE, FAX, EMAIL Please include sender’s name and address to: [email protected] | Asia News Network Nation Multimedia Group Plc 1854 Bangna-Trad Road (Km 4.5), Bangna, Bangkok 10260 Thailand.Tel: (662)338 3333 Fax: (662)338 3964 Subscription inquries: Nation Multimedia Group Plc 1854 Bangna-Trad Road (Km 4.5), Bangna, Bangkok 10260 Thailand.Tel: (662)338 3333 Call Center: (662)338 3000 press 1 Fax: (662)338 3964 PH OTO by china daily COVE R IM AG E | afp photo The View By Philippine Daily Inquirer By Karim Raslan Citizens Vs Corruption Never Say Never v Manila v Kuala Lumpur The Star The task may seem daunting, but it can be done 6• NO CORRUPTION: Philippine President Benigno Aquino III has vowed to stamp out corruption that has plagued the country into poverty for decades. He recently called on the new military chief to cleanse the corrupt image of the institution. product. A more recent estimate put it at close to 20 per cent of the national budget. This is money that taxpayers have remitted to government and that is supposed to go back to them in the form of services and public works, but which is going into the pockets of corrupt government officials and employees. “As a comparison, 16 per cent goes to education and 4 per cent goes to health. With this 20-per cent figure in mind, let’s think how many schools, hospitals, barangay (village) clinics could have been built, how many kilometres of roads could have been built,” Meyer said. About a week ago, the education department signed an integrity pact with business partners, suppliers and nongovernment organisations to do away with “old habits” and encourage strict adherence to good governance. We hope that other departments and offices of the government would conclude similar agreements with their business partners to ensure the strictest transparency in all their dealings. Education secretary Armin Luistro, who signed the agreement said: “We must acknowledge that corruption erodes the moral fibre and im- pedes economic growth and we must act responsibly by leading by example.” It would be well if the wellknown “centres of corruption” in government, such as the tax and customs bureaus, and public works and highways department, would follow the example and conclude similar integrity pacts. But the campaign against corruption should be conducted not just by the government alone. More importantly, it should be conducted without let-up by civil society groups and the average citizen. The citizens’ campaign could start small, as suggested by the Public Transparency Reporting Project. It could be as simple as protesting and stopping the practice of politicians putting their names and faces on publicly funded projects and services. Government officials and politicians who do this are essentially misappropriating public funds for their private gain (getting publicity for their reelection campaign at the next elections). Another easily doable project would be to monitor the lifestyle of public officials and civil servants. Public Transparency Reporting Project is writing the relevant agencies and institutions to access the statements of assets and liabilities with net worth of government officials. The people should also pressure President Aquino to certify as urgent the Whistleblowers’ Act and the Freedom of Information bill and ensure that Congress will pass these two measures in the current regular session. These two measures would greatly help in the campaign against corruption. The term of the anti-corruption Aquino is an auspicious time to campaign all-out against corruption. The task may seem daunting, but it can be done. March 11-24, 2011 I n 2010, liberals all over the world (including myself) were worried about how democracy appeared to be in retreat. China’s rise along with the US and Europe’s decline seemed to herald an age of authoritarianism as politicians looked on admiringly at Beijing’s startling prosperity. Indeed, even the bastion of liberal thought, The Economist produced a lavish ‘Democracy in Retreat’ special for all those hand-wringers out there. Well, 2011 has reversed the gloom. Suddenly, democracy with all its irrationality and craziness is back in vogue—a young man’s act of selfimmolation in Tunisia has engendered demonstrations and regime change across the Arab world—literally like wildfire. As I’ve said before, I don’t think Southeast Asia will be experiencing the same exuberant democratic adrenalinrush this time around. We’ve been there before. In 1998, we experienced a similar inflationary spike in oil and food prices (caused by the currency crisis). The moment has passed but that doesn’t mean we don’t wonder at what might have happened or regret our failure to seize the moment. Indeed, Southeast Asian history is littered with mixed-results revolutions—like the Reformasi movements of Malaysia and Indonesia, the Filipino EDSAs and the 1992 Thai democracy protests—all of which were ultimately futile or requiring arduous consolidation. If anything, Malaysia (and Singapore) are quietly tightening the noose on civil liberties and media freedom. Still, the sense of relative deprivation and frustration is by no means comparable—yet—with the Middle East. Nevertheless, as I look at the wave of unrest rippling through the Arab world March 11-24, 2011 today, I’m reminded of the saying: Never Say Never, which also happens to be the title of a Justin Bieber song— but let’s not go there. It would be very foolish to think that our region is completely insulated from turmoil in the Middle East. Firstly, we could well be hit economically as higher oil prices threaten the US and Europe’s recovery and lead to a “double-dip” recession, something that would impact our export-led economies. Secondly, we’re still not sure how the Gulf’s various monarchies will weather CLASHES: Libyan rebel fighters flash the ‘victory’ sign as they gather at a checkpoint on the outskirts of the oil town of Ras Lanuf on March 7. the storm. Will they manage better than their republican counterparts? Evidence from Bahrain shows that princes can and do make horrendous errors of judgment. Is this “democratic wave” the political equivalent of the contagious bird flu? Certainly, it’s hard to envisage how kingdoms like Saudi Arabia or Jordan will escape the turmoil. Autocratic rule has failed to deliver either employment or prosperity and resentment simmers just below the surface. Indeed, Saudi Arabia seems particularly vulnerable. The Kingdom is surrounded by political upheaval. The predominantly-Shiite uprising in Bahrain may well spread via the King Fahd Causeway, to the extensive oil-producing Eastern Province— which also happens to be largely Shiite. Major disruptions to the oil supply aside, any political dislocation in Saudi Arabia would also have a seismic impact on the Islamic world. The core cause of the demonstrations is essentially the breakdown of the Middle East’s authoritarian consensus. Like our own, it is founded upon the notion that its populace would accept a lack of democracy and civil rights in return for stability plus economic development. The regimes of Ben Ali, Mubarak and Gaddafi provided neither; and so their people have risen albeit after decades of cowering in fear. What has made the anger on the ground all the more palpable is the hypocritical use those dictators made of Islam and Arab nationalism to disguise their corruption, venality and dynastic ambitions. Arab leaders have failed to deal with their people in a dignified, decent and intelligent manner. As I said earlier, there has lately been a momentum towards conservative reform in Southeast Asia. If Southeast Asian leaders wish to avoid the fate of the now-teetering Arab states, then they cannot allow their plans for transformation to be sidetracked. Above all, a willingness to open up the political space must go handin-hand with economic development. Southeast Asia must also listen to its young. Our politics have for too long been dominated by unaccountable gerontocrats sniping from behind the curtain. Asean leaders must have the vision and foresight to respond to these challenges, or see their governments swept away with the same fury that now stalks the Arab streets. As I said: ‘never say never’... •7 photo by RO B ERTO S C HMIDT/afp PH OTO BY JAY DI RE CTO/A F P L ast week the Philippine finance department forged an agreement with business groups and civil society to encourage citizens’ participation in denouncing corrupt government officials, smugglers and tax cheats. For starters, the anti-corruption group is composed of six big business and civic organisations but we believe more will join it as the campaign goes on. The formation of a citizens’ group to help in the campaign against corruption is an encouraging development. It can certainly help the Aquino administration, which is focused on an anti-corruption drive, attain its goal. Cleansing the government of corruption will be like cleaning the Augean stables. The Philippines is considered one of the most corrupt countries in the world. Transparency International’s latest Corruption Perception Index (October 2010) ranked the Philippines 134th among 178 countries surveyed. In 2009 Transparency International’s Global Corruption Barometer asked 1,000 Filipinos to grade civil servants and the average score was 4 out of 5, with 5 being extremely corrupt. Seventy-seven per cent said government actions to counter corruption were ineffectual, according to Samantha Grant, programme coordinator for TI-Southeast Asia. A huge amount of public money which could otherwise be used to fund public services and infrastructure goes to corruption. Renaud Meyer, United Nations Development Programme country director, said the Philippines loses about 1.92 billion pesos (US$44.2 million) to corruption every year. Over a 20-year period, that’s close to half a trillion. In 2000, the cost of corruption was 10 per cent of the gross national Southeast Asia will never have the same exuberant democratic adrenalin-rush this time around COVER STORY By Ken Marantz The Yomiuri Shimbun The Writing On Sumo’s Wall THE PROBLEMS THAT FACE SUMO MAY BE A SYMPTOM OF WHAT TRADITIONAL JAPAN NEEDS TO CHANGE T ❖ Tokyo he revelations of gambling and links with gangsters in Japan’s sumo world have pushed sumo to the edge of the ring, one shove from oblivion. The Japan Sumo Association (JSA) is already likely to lose 1.4 billion yen (US$17 million) in the wake of the sumo matchrigging scandal, following the body’s decision to cancel one of its regular tournaments that make up the association’s main sources of revenue. This is just the beginning of greater financial repercussions on the sumo world as several Japanese organisations that cancelled regional tournaments due to the scandal are seeking compensation for expenses used in preparing for the tournaments. 8• Some companies have stopped airing TV commercials starring sumo wrestlers or are considering withdrawing sponsorships from the regular tournaments, moves that are expected to hurt the JSA and wrestlers in the pockets, observers said. Most of the JSA’s operating revenue comes from the six regular sumo tournaments held each year. Of the JSA’s 10.41 billion yen ($127 million) in recurring revenue, or predicted continuing annual revenue, the association registered 9.59 billion yen in operating revenue in the 2009 accounting year. Income from regular tournaments in that year was 8.6 billion yen, more than 80 per cent of operating revenue. Simple calculations show that one regular tournament accounts for about 1.4 billion yen in operating revenue for March 11-24, 2011 the JSA, more than 10 per cent of the association’s annual total. For its 2011 budget, the JSA estimated that operating profit from all regular tournaments would total 7.84 billion yen of the 8.75 billion yen full-year figure. The JSA decided last month to cancel the Spring Grand Sumo Tournament scheduled this month in Osaka. If the JSA cancels other regular tournaments, it would suffer an even greater financial blow, observers said. The JSA’s decision to cancel regional sumo tournaments caused repercussions across Japan. A citizens’ voluntary organisation in Hokota, Ibaraki Prefecture, which was preparing for a regional sumo tournament that was to have taken place April 10 but later cancelled, is seeking compensation March 11-24, 2011 for damages from the JSA. The organisation claimed it has spent more than 5 million yen to make 700 posters and 45,000 leaflets and purchase 10 tons of sand for the sumo ring. Shigeo Mogami, 61, a promoter of the Fujisawa Tournament that was scheduled to be held April 9 in Fujisawa, Kanagawa Prefecture, said damages caused by the cancellation of that tournament were estimated to range from 15 million yen to 20 million yen. The JSA’s sponsors have weighed in, using their financial leverage to register displeasure, including companies that have stopped airing TV commercials starring sumo wrestlers as the match-fixing scandal unfolded. In February, Fuji Xerox Co stopped airing a TV commercial •9 A F P PHOTO/ Japan P ool via Jiji Press AFP P H O TO / J IJ I P RE S S COVER STORY TAINTED SPORT: Japan Sumo Association chairman Hanaregoma (2nd L) and executives of the association bow their heads as they announce the cancellation of the spring tournament scheduled in March over a match-fixing scandal. staring yokozuna Hakuho for its combination copier-fax machine— the day after the JSA decided to cancel the spring sumo tournament. Fuji Xerox stopped airing the Hakuho commercial only 16 days after it began. “All we can say is it (the scandal) is just unfortunate,” a Fuji Xerox PR official said. Sumitomo Forestry Co also halted airing a TV commercial staring Hakuho and other wrestlers. Hakata Salt Mfg Inc, which has sold salt sprinkled by wrestlers to purify the sumo ring at regular tournaments held at the Ryogoku Kokugikan sumo arena in Tokyo, said it received an anonymous e-mail that said, “Stop providing the salt (to the sumo arena).” Snack maker Natori Co., whose company name has been featured on 10 • costumes worn at sumo tournaments for about 50 years, withdrew from participation at July’s Nagoya Grand Sumo Tournament when the sumo world was rocked by a scandal over illegal betting on professional baseball games. End of the game? At this point, the JSA is on its tip-toes, desperately balancing on the straw. The question is whether it will fall over the edge, or regroup and get back into the fight. Enacting sweeping reforms seems to be the obvious solution. But what exactly does that mean? To crack down on illegal gambling in the stables, just like they have allegedly cracked down on beating up junior wrestlers or assured there are no thrown bouts, doesn’t get to the root of the problem. APOLOGIES: Mongolian-born sumo grand champion, Hakuho (R), bows at the beginning of a press conference at his stable in Tokyo in February. Japan’s only sumo grand champion apologised in chagrin over a match-fixing scandal which has hit the ancient sport. The much bigger issue is that the sumo association must realise it cannot continue functioning as a modern-day sport while maintaining feudal customs under the guise of traditions. This is not about getting rid of those traditions that occur on the dohyo, like the throwing of salt or the ring-entering ceremony. Those give sumo its allure and should never be changed—although it’s about time to dump the one about women not being allowed to step onto the raised ring. As if the ring is not defiled enough. Instead it’s the culture of sumo wrestlers as infallable supermen, under the leadership of ex-wrestlers carrying out their duties with the mentality of a college fraternity, that needs a swift kick in the mawashi. March 11-24, 2011 The JSA has promulgated the image of these very mortal men as the essence of purity in spirit and action. Of course, when a few are shown to not be anything of the sort, the reaction will be outrage. Now is the time for the JSA to get with the times, get out from behind its veil of secrecy as an old boys’ club and to get out from under the thumb of Japan’s education ministry. It should reincorporate itself as an independent, professional sport, with a nonpartisan commissioner equipped with a written rulebook establishing fines and penalties for specific, errant behaviour—instead of the vague “acts unbecoming of a wrestler”. Drop this ‘dignity’ facade. Like pro athletes around the world, the young men in the upper ranks make vast March 11-24, 2011 sums of money—with very few living expenses. There are going to be dalliances, and they have to be subject to the same laws as everyone else, but not be expected to live up to a Mother Teresa-like standard. The fact that Murayama was standing in for JSA chairman Musashigawa, one of numerous officials and wrestlers currently under suspension, spoke volumes. As a sport, sumo offers an exciting product. The influx of foreign wrestlers only shows its worldwide appeal. It’s when it’s regarded as a lifestyle that the wheels come off the cart. The virus has spread to every level of the sport. It’s too late for preventive medicine; all that’s left is to cure the patient and get him back on his feet. What’s most needed is a change of medication. ◊ Sumo Survey TOKYO: More than half, or 57 per cent of Japanese, in a recent Yomiuri Shimbun survey said they did not think the Japan Sumo Association’s reform efforts would do any good. Only 35 per cent said they had faith the JSA would be able to achieve its reform goals, according to the survey. The general sports survey was conducted on January 29 and 30, and covered 3,000 people nationwide, just a few days before the latest match-throwing allegations broke, with 1,234 people giving valid responses. With a majority of the public expressing little hope the scandal-prone sumo community can get back on track, it is highly likely the recent fracas over thrown bouts has made the public even more critical toward the sumo world. Asked what they would like to see from grand sumo, 64 per cent of respondents said they want “Japanese wrestlers to succeed”, and 40 per cent said “criminal gangs should be eradicated and bad tendencies should be corrected”. Thirty-six per cent wanted “wrestlers to have more dignity”, and 31 per cent hoped “the quality of the instructors can be improved”. Multiple answers were allowed. Asked what sport they liked to watch, 44 per cent chose professional baseball as their favourite—winning first place for the 17th consecutive year. Professional football came in second with 36 per cent, drastically higher than the ninth spot it held last year, likely due to the achievements of the national team at the recent Asian Cup in Qatar. Sumo came in sixth at 23 per cent. — The Yomiuri Shimbun • 11 COVER STORY By The Yomiuri Shimbun The Bottom Of The Exam Cheating Universities To Blame? J ❖ Tokyo apan’s university authorities came under attack for not doing enough to prevent wrongdoing during their entrance examinations, after a 19-year-old preparatory school student was arrested on suspicion of posting entrance exam questions from four universities on the Internet. Kyoto prefectural police said the Sendai student posted a question on Yahoo Japan’s Chiebukuro (pearls of wisdom) question-and-answer service during an English exam for Kyoto University on February 26. He is also suspected of checking the reply on the site during the test. The student reportedly said he sought the answer online by himself, meaning that supervisors may have turned a blind eye to his suspicious intermittent use of his cellphone during the exam. Kyoto University said it had taken all possible measures to prevent such wrongdoing, but the university’s public relations office was flooded with calls criticising supervisors’ failure to carefully monitor test-takers. Kyoto University deployed about 400 supervisors to monitor about 8,000 examinees, saying that was sufficient to oversee the test. However, according to a former professor of a staterun university in his 60s, “Simply having many supervisors in the exam room won’t ARRESTED: A car believed to be carrying a 19-year-old Japanese student who was arrested last week in relation to suspected exam fraud leaves a police station. The attempt of a 19-year-old college-bound student to cheat could shake the very foundations of the Japanese university entrance exam system A TH E YO MI URI SHI MB U N P HOTO ❖ Tokyo 19-year-old preparatory school student was arrested early this month in connection with a case in which entrance exam questions from Kyoto University and three other universities were posted on an Internet bulletin board site during the exam. The male student, who was arrested on a charge of fraudulently interfering with Kyoto University’s operations, reportedly told police that he acted alone and he “just wanted to pass” the exams. How could the student use a cellphone to post exam questions on Yahoo Japan’s Chiebukuro website—and see the answers sent back during the exams—without being detected by proctors? How did he come up with the idea of illicitly using the Internet during the exams? We hope the police will get to the bottom of this case and the student’s motives. Chiebukuro (pearls of wisdom) is a question-and-answer site. A user posts a question on the site, and then other users post answers. Replies often come in a short time; this usability has made the site very popular. The arrested student allegedly had 12 • used Chiebukuro previously. The student is of a generation who are Internet-savvy and skilled at using cellphones. He may have turned to the Internet to make up for his own lack of knowledge. But his actions trampled all over the sincere efforts being made by other examinees. His attempt to cheat could shake the very foundations of the university entrance exam system, which is supposed to be fair for everyone. There are, however, no laws that penalise the act of cheating in an exam itself. Because of this, the police investigation is being conducted on the charge applied to crimes listed in the Penal Code as obstructing someone’s business through fraudulent acts such as deceiving others. It is important that by learning lessons from the latest incident, steps be taken to ensure similar misconduct is not repeated. Universities have instructed examinees to switch off their mobile phones and put them in their bags during exams. The latest case apparently caught them completely unaware. After the latest incident came to light, some universities began keeping test-takers’ cellphones during the test or having examinees turn off their phones and place them in clear view on their desks. Some universities will even hold their exams in smaller venues than originally planned so examinees can be more easily watched. The possibility of test rooms being fitted with a device that jams mobile communications and prevents the use of cellphones has received increasing attention. In South Korea, a large group of students used cellphones in an organised attempt to cheat on a university entrance exam in 2004. Since then, examinees have been prohibited from bringing cellphones and digital cameras to exam venues. Anyone who violates this rule can face punishments including disqualification for one year from taking the exam. Such precedents may be helpful guidelines as Japan tries to prevent a recurrence of unfair use of the Internet by test-takers. Misusing information devices to cheat in entrance exams could happen again. With that assumption in mind, the education, culture, sports, science and technology ministry needs to consider countermeasures while seeking advice from experts in a broad range of fields. March 11-24, 2011 March 11-24, 2011 solve the problem. Many university staffers describe supervising entrance examinations as a ‘mindless chore’ and do it half-heartedly.” Two or more professors are allocated to supervise venues where the National Centre Test for University Admissions is held. But the former professor said some supervisors grade exams from their own classes while others snore through the tests. The former professor also heard complaints from students who said supervisors chatted noisily. A former Waseda University official said it is difficult for supervisors to single out exam-takers even if they notice what appears to be a wrongdoing. The Tokyobased university established a rule that two or more supervisors need to confirm the suspicious activity before they can warn suspected cheaters. The 19-year-old student is also suspected of posting online an English question from an entrance exam for Waseda University’s school of culture, media and society. The former Waseda staffer said: “If two or more supervisors come over (to confirm suspected cheating), the test-taker will notice them and stop cheating. Maybe we’ve missed a number of cheating incidents in the past because we were too cautious.” Experts said most university authorities have yet to take any effective measures to deal with cell phones and other mobile electronic devices. In South Korea, a huge scandal erupted in 2004 over mass cheating using cellphones on the college scholastic ability test—that country’s equivalent of the centre test. Since then, test-takers in South Korea have been obliged to leave all electronic devices, including DVD players and cellphones, in a separate room during exam hours. If examinees are found to have such devices during a test, they are forced to leave the room and in serious cases are even questioned by police. However, the four universities at which the preparatory school student is suspected of cheating only asked testtakers to turn off their mobile phones and put them in their bags during the exams. Lawyer Takayuki Asami, an expert on corporate risk management, said university authorities have overlooked cheating because they do not see the need for crisis management. “Universities should first change their idea that ‘there probably isn’t any wrongdoing.’ When I took the bar exam, we were told that any dubious conduct would receive an immediate warning. I actually saw someone get warned during the test,” Asami said. “Just telling examinees that a warning is possible is a deterrent. University authorities should thoroughly train supervisors, not just compile manuals,” he said. • 13 COVER STORY “An ingenious intervention of considerable and strategic significance.” By The Korea Herald Japan Politics C PH OTO BY A FP ❖ Seoul ontroversy over illegal political donations of 200,000 yen (2.7 million won or US$2,400) over four years has further shaken the fragile administration of Japanese Prime Minister Naoto Kan with the resignation of foreign minister Seiji Maehara. As the donor happens to be a Korean restaurant owner in Kyoto named Jang, who says she did not know foreigners were banned from political donations, some may be seeing a pattern of xenophobic discrimination in the island country. Yet it also exposes an absence of tolerance that has kept Japan’s politics from moving ahead all these years. Seiji Maehara made a series of apologies at the Diet last week. He acknowledged that his staff received the contributions from a 72-year-old woman resident of Korean nationality between 2005 and 2008. He had earlier apologised for a mistaken identity of a donor and for receiving contribution from a tax-evading firm. The donation constituted a violation of the Japanese Law on Control of Political Funds, which prohibits lawmakers from receiving donations from foreign nationals or organisations controlled by foreigners. Shoji Nishida, a member of the House of Councilors from the opposition Liberal Democratic Party, made the disclosure in a budget committee session. As Maehara acknowledged the illegal donation, the opposition lawmaker told Kan: “The foreign minister is a person who has received donations from a foreigner. You should immediately dismiss him.” Maehara and Jang were neighbours for 38 years. The Korean restaurateur made the donation in 14 • her Japanese name, suspecting no legal problem in doing so, and Maehara did not know she was making the annual donations. In the opposition offensive based on microscopic scrutiny of political funds, these circumstances were not given any consideration. Surprisingly, Japan’s conservative media and opposition politicians non-Japanese citizens to influence the selection of the prime minister. “The nation’s foundation will be damaged if they (DPJ leaders) compete among themselves with promises to pass a pending foreign suffrage bill to garner votes of DPJ members and supporters in the party’s presidential election,” a recent Yomiuri editorial asserted. The 600,000 Korean residents in Japan, the legacy of Japan’s colonisation of Korea, cannot accept it when Japan put them into the general category of “foreign residents” to restrict their civil rights. Like Jang in Kyoto, they find it unfair to be BOWING OUT: Japanese Foreign Minister Seiji Maehara bows his head as he announces his resignation at his office in Tokyo on March 6. tended to link the Korean woman’s donation to Korean residents’ moves to win voting rights in Japanese elections, a matter that was favourably considered by leaders of the ruling DPJ. Some newspapers pointed out that Korean foreign minister Kim Sung-hwan had reminded Maehara of Seoul’s continuing concerns about the issue when they met in Tokyo last month. The DPJ and its supporting groups have opened their memberships to foreign nationals. The Yomiuri Shimbun, for one, strongly criticised the DPJ’s membership system, which the conservative daily feared would in effect allow prohibited from making even small donations to Japanese politicians after living in the country for generations. Maehara called Jang to convey his regret for the controversy over her donations and the Korean resident woman said she was deeply sorry for having caused him such serious trouble. The political career of one of the future leaders of Japan has come to a halt, at least for now, but many more will share Maehara’s fate as long as the self-consumptive, cleaner-than-thou contests continue in Tokyo party politics, sometimes sprinkled with xenophobia as in the latest episode. March 11-24, 2011 Charles Correa, Architect in India, Professor at the MIT in Cambridge (USA) and Head of the Global Holcim Awards jury 2009, on the prize-winning River remediation and urban development scheme, Fez, Morocco. Develop new perspectives for our future: 3 rd International Holcim Awards competition for projects in sustainable construction. Prize money totals USD 2 million. www.holcimawards.org In partnership with the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH Zurich), Switzerland; the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, Cambridge, USA; Tongji University, Shanghai, China; Universidad Iberoamericana, Mexico City; and the Ecole Supérieure d’Architecture de Casablanca, Morocco. The universities lead the independent juries in five regions of the world. Entries at www.holcimawards.org close March 23, 2011. The Holcim Awards competition is an initiative of the Holcim Foundation for Sustainable Construction. Based in Switzerland, the foundation is supported by Holcim Ltd and its Group companies and affiliates in more than 70 countries. Holcim is one of the world’s leading suppliers of cement and aggregates as well as further activities such as ready-mix concrete and asphalt including services. SPECIAL REPORT By Salim Osman The Straits Times Walking A Tightrope The Indonesian government is in a dilemma over how to tackle the Ahmadiyah issue ∫ A protester shouts slogans as he holds a placard reading “We want Islamic revolution” during a rally against the minority Muslim Ahmadiyah sect in Jakarta on February 18. A ❖ Jakarta Photo by A FP frenzied Muslim mob went berserk in February, killing three followers of the Ahmadiyah faith and leaving Indonesia’s image as a moderate Muslim- majority nation in tatters. The attack at a village in Banten was captured in horrific detail on video, with footage showing the battered bodies of the three victims being stabbed and clobbered in broad daylight as hundreds of onlookers cheered and several policemen stood by. 16 • Two days later, another marauding mob went on a rampage, this time attacking churches and torching vehicles in Temanggung, Central Java, angry that a man found guilty of blaspheming Islam had been given a fiveyear jail sentence, instead of the death penalty. Indonesian President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono condemned the violence as “intolerable” and vowed a full-scale investigation, while many Muslim leaders also voiced their abhorrence. The Ahmadis have been an age-old problem for the state ever since the March 11-24, 2011 arrival of the first Ahmadi missionary from India in 1925 to preach the teachings of Mirza Ghulam Ahmad, the founder of the 19th-century movement. Contrary to claims that the Ahmadis had been living in peace with mainstream Muslims till recently, there has always been tension between the two groups. One of the Ahmadi teachings deemed heretical by most Muslims is the belief that its founder Mirza Ghulam Ahmad was a prophet after Prophet Muhammad. The Indonesian Council of Ulema issued a fatwa in 1980 declaring March 11-24, 2011 Ahmadiyah deviant. But it was only recently that the problem became acute, with a series of attacks on the Ahmadiyah community in West Java and Nusa Tenggara Barat. Has the Yudhoyono administration done enough to solve the problem? To answer that question, we need to go back to 2005, when a unit of the Attorney-General’s Office that monitors religion, Bakorpakem, recommended that the government ban Ahmadiyah, as represented by the Jemaah Ahmadiyah Indonesia (JAI) and the Gerakan Ahmadiyah Indonesia. When the call went unheeded, the Attorney-General suggested a dialogue with JAI leaders, which took place in September 2007. The JAI was told it had several options, including dissolution by the government or by the courts, categorisation as non-Muslim, or acceptance of Ahmadiyah as one stream of Islam within the broader Muslim community. Not surprisingly, in January 2008, the Ahmadis submitted a statement saying they wanted to be part of the Muslim community and promised to adhere to 12 points—among them, that Muhammad was the last prophet and that Mirza Ghulam Ahmad was only a teacher and mentor. Three months later, Bakorpakem issued a statement saying the Ahmadis had not implemented the 12 points in a consistent and responsible fashion and had engaged in activities that deviated from the key tenets of Islam. It recommended a decree warning the JAI to cease its activities or face dissolution. On June 9, 2008, the Ahmadis were told not to preach their beliefs to others, although they could continue to worship. On the one hand, the Yudhoyono government does not want to be seen as bowing to the pressure of the hardliners by proscribing Ahmadi- yah. On the other, it wants to soothe mainstream Muslims. Because of this dilemma, the government has not taken a firm stand on the issue. It recognises the right of Ahmadis to practise their faith but cautions that “every person is banned from speaking about or supporting interpretations of a religion which deviate from the central teachings of that religion”. Human rights groups saw the decree as a rights violation. The hardliners felt the decree did not go far enough. How should the government proceed? It should consider revising its decree to make it clear that the Ahmadis belong to a separate sect that is not part of the broader Islamic community. This would mean that the constitutional recognition of only six religions—Islam, Catholicism, Protestantism, Hinduism, Buddhism and Confucianism—will have to be amended to include Ahmadiyah as a sub-group. By being declared separate from Islam, Ahmadis would be spared prosecution under the blasphemy laws. This would be the best option, for it would be futile to insist that Ahmadis are part of the broader Muslim community. But declaring them as separate would not necessarily free them from harassment by the fanatics. Christians, who are members of a recognised religion, have also been attacked. The government must therefore provide Ahmadis with firm guarantees for them to practise their faith without fear. The police should end the practice of standing by as Ahmadi mosques and homes are raided. It should disband violent hardline groups and remove thugs and hooligans—an impor tant source of recruits for sectarian violence—from the street. Ahmadiyah followers are the country’s citizens and deserve to be treated as such. The Yudhoyono administration has to be firm in resolving the Ahmadiyah question and not allow the problem to fester. Its reluctance to be firm is causing the violence against the Ahmadiyah to escalate. • 17 SPECIAL REPORT By Zubaidah Nazeer The Straits Times Rising Intolerance Indonesia’s anti-terror work may be undone by a trend of radical groups uniting ∫ This video grab (left) made available on February 7 by Human Rights Watch shows villagers attacking members of minority Ahmadiyah Islamic sect in Pandeglang, Banten province, on February 6. A burned car (right and bottom) is abandoned outside the damaged house of the Ahmadiyah Islamic sect leader. ∫ Members of the Ahmadiyah Islamic sect pray before the biers bearing the two bodies of their fellow members ahead of the burial ceremony in Tangerang in Banten province on February 8. I ❖ Jakarta Photo S by A FP ndonesia has had some success countering the terrorism threat, but the government’s work looks set to be undone by rising intolerance, said terrorism experts, as the country is gripped by a string of religiously motivated violence. The analysts note a trend of groups with different ideological and tactical makeup banding together over a common fear of Christianisation, and a dislike of sects like Ahmadiyah, which have now faced bans in several provinces in Indonesia. Noor Huda Ismail of Jakarta’s Institute of International Peace 18 • Building said: “Ahmadiyah is now a rallying cry to cement different Islamists, resulting in a new configuration of groups.” He gave this assessment during a discussion on radicalisation in Indonesia recently organised by the Jakarta Foreign Correspondents Club. Such coalitions can help the weakened jihadi groups survive, said analysts. Another terrorism analyst, Sidney Jones of the International Crisis Group, cited an example of how modernist group Muhammadiyah, the second-largest Islamic group in Indonesia, is also a member of an umbrella group called Bekasi Islamic ConMarch 11-24, 2011 gress, which was set up to safeguard Islam from perceived threats. Other members include the Islamic Defenders Front which has launched attacks on churches and Ahmadiyah worshippers, and Jemaah Ansharut Tauhid, a group led by cleric Abu Bakar Bashir who is undergoing a terrorism trial. “There used to be a division and clear lines between the jihadis and the moralist thugs who have a more local agenda,” said Jones. Failure to address the intolerance issue, she added, would “undermine the government’s counter-terrorism efforts”. The other worrying trend is the emergence of groups of individuals from different extremist organisations working together for an immediate aim, but staying on for longerterm collaborations. These are men from weakened radical groups who managed to form cells by relying on smaller networks and strengthening personal relationships with like-minded men in prison. Bonar Tigor Naipospos from the Setara Institute for Peace and Democracy, a group advocating religious tolerance, said fundamentalists may have a more sinister plan in forming coalitions with the morMarch 11-24, 2011 ally conservative. Fundamentalists are “looking to create another war zone in hopes that more people will be drawn towards jihad”, he said. Net-savvy radicals are also tapping into popular social media tools like Twitter and blogs to lobby for their causes. During Bashir’s trial, spokesmen for radical movements were quick with tweets of their opinions, said Noor Huda. Such extremist actions remain unchecked largely due to the government’s lack of tough measures, said analysts. There seems to be a widespread public perception that while radical groups are using the wrong tactics, some of their goals—like preserving the good name of Islam by banning such sects—are right. Police fear that cracking down on such groups with good local community networks will meet with a violent backlash. There may also be a political twist. Jones said: “There is a growing political campaign against Pres- ident (Susilo Bambang) Yudhoyono by his enemies... There is a worry among civil society groups that any demonstrations against hardliners will be hijacked and manipulated (against him).” But some things can be helped. For a start, Bonar said radical preachers should be banned from leading Friday prayers in some outlying districts. The government also needs to take strong measures to sack officials who encourage extremist or intolerant organisations. Said Jones: “At the school level, the government has to examine (content in) school textbooks and use them to highlight different groups of people living together within a community and talking to one another to show that all Indonesians are equal.” • 19 POLITICS By Kavi Chongkittavorn The Nation (Thailand) READY FOR WAR: Thai troops deploy more tanks to reinforce their bases at Kantharalak district of Si Sa Ket province near the Thai-Cambodian border last month. Asean On The Rise Asean has set a precedent by coming up with a resolution for the border dispute between Thailand and Cambodia B Photos by A FP ❖ Bangkok y hosting the informal meeting of foreign ministers of the Association of Southeast Asian Nations (Asean) in February, the Asean chair, Indonesia, gave a historical lead that could gradually and tangibly transform the grouping into a true political and secure community. It was a small step “with a giant leap of faith” as the credibility of Asean will now hinge on the outcome of bilateral talks between Thailand and 20 • Cambodia. The 90-minute meeting was brief—a rubber stamp of prior discussion and agreements the chair mapped out with both sides. It was contrary to the high-stake power games played out by the two protagonists—Thailand and Cambodia—in the previous weeks. Thailand and Cambodia have been at loggerheads over the Preah Vihear Temple since last century, and even though the case was taken to the International Court of Justice (ICJ), Thailand has been resisting the verdict since 1962. Violence has erupted from time to time near the borders of the two countries, with the latest skirmish from February 4 to 7 claiming at least 10 lives, including three civilians on both sides. Cambodia, referring to the 1962 ICJ ruling that “the temple is situated in the territory under the sovereignty of Cambodia”, handed the case over to United Nations Security Council claiming that Thailand was invading its territory. Phnom Penh obviously hoped that the UN would enforce the ICJ ruling and keep Thai soldiers away from the areas surrounding the Hindu temple. Thailand, on the other hand, has been arguing that the ICJ ruling only gave Cambodia the sandstone temple, not the surrounding areas. However, common sense says that a temple cannot stand on Cambodian territory unless its surrounding land is also Cambodian. Yet Bangkok has been maintaining its argument for nearly half a century now and wants to exercise its power and get Phnom Penh to accept it. This was the core reason behind the skirmishes near the Thai-Cambodian border lastmonth. The clashes at the border, however, have given a much-needed impetus for Asean to take up once a taboo issue— an intra-Asean conflict—in a more open way, even though the role of the Asean chair is strictly confined to that of a facilitator. One of the biggest weaknesses of Asean, like other regional organisations such as the African Union or Mercosur, has been its inability to cope with intra-Asean conflict in a forthright manner. This stems from the reticent culture of Southeast Asia March 11-24, 2011 and the ingrained fear of failure—a working out a viable modality. Expe- its status within Asean, and Laos in truly family psyche. rience and good practices from vari- particular, will be greatly augmented. The Asean foreign ministers often ous peacekeeping operations in East It remains to be seen how this used the word ‘retreat’ to discuss Timor (1999-2000) and the cessation dynamics will play out in the end. over-sensitive issues, particularly of hostilities monitoring mission in Initially, it is not difficult to predict when members had not reached a Aceh (2003) are useful references. A that Indonesia will encounter a solid consensus. In that sense, the few Asean members, including Thai- peaceful environment befitting the Burmese political crisis has occupied land, joined individually in both mis- Asean spirit of cooperation as stated the retreat’s agenda for the longest sions or financed their participation. in the chairman’s statement. In the period of time, spanning nearly two This is an important step as the similar vein, Thailand and Cambodia decades. Therefore, it is no surprise Asean chair is performing this func- have demonstrated their readiness that Asean member countries still prefer discreet and informal ways to deal with their internal squabbling minus the media fanfares. Just look back, almost all Asean disagreements in the past four decades—though, not as serious as the Thai-Cambodian territorial dispute—were settled through casual and less structured meetings. In short, Asean does not want to “Aseanise” its disagreements. But with the Asean Charter in place over the past two years, the member countries are becoming more responsive towards the charter’s mandates and FAMILY GATHERING: Asean foreign ministers hold an informal meeting in Jakarta on February 22. objectives. By all means, nobody should get bogged down with the so-called tion—known as the “enhanced role of and determination to defend their “informal” or “retreat” framework. the Asean chair”—for the first time sovereignty and territorial integrity. Whenever Asean leaders can draw up over an intra-Asean conflict. During At issue is: can the cessation of hosgood results from these gatherings, it the East Timor crisis, former Thai tilities be sustained as the two sides could be made official in no time. foreign minister Dr Surin Pitsuwan, work out their common solutions? Thailand and Cambodia know fully acted as the chair of Asean and the After all, Indonesia has just another well the onus is on them to honour Asean Regional Forum when he re- 10 months to serve in the capacity of and respect the Asean principles and sponded to Indonesia’s appeal for Asean chair. What would happen norms enshrined in the Treaty of peacekeeping assistance. Any mis- next? Cambodia will succeed IndoAmity and Cooperation and the Ase- step could send a wrong signal to nesia as the Asean chair next year— an Charter. They also know the Asean hesitant Asean members and impact the year when Cambodia will go to mantra that members—in this case on the grouping’s future political and the polls. Will Indonesia continue after a few days of armed skirmish- security cooperation. Truth be told, its current role beyond its chairmanes—should not go to war or declare a Indonesia is extremely mindful of the ship? In that case, would Jakarta state of war perpetually. Thanks to presence of only two foreign minis- take on a mediating role? Indonesia’s leadership, the two mem- ters from Laos and Singapore at the Indonesia’s great leap of faith is bers agreed to station the Indonesian meeting, apart from the concerned also linked to its global agenda. Jaobservers at their respective borders. countries. If the chair’s new adven- karta’s desire and vision to prepare The tripartite group is currently still ture achieves its intended purposes, Asean as a single community with March 11-24, 2011 • 21 PHOTO BY A F P POLITICS By Nirmal Ghosh The Straits Times common vision and identity after 2015 and to engage it with the larger world, notably old and new major powers, is extremely ambitious. As a tangible step towards this noble object, Asean under the Indonesian chair must demonstrate its ability to contain and manage efficiently any intra-Asean conflict without resorting to bigger international bodies. Otherwise, the credibility of entire Asean could be at stake. Over a decade ago, Indonesia showed the way. Jakarta had the courage to wash its dirty linen in East Timor for all to see and indeed set forth an unheralded political precedence in Asean—balancing international maneouvrability with regional solidarity and limited leadership found in individual Asean members. That left behind a good legacy in East Timor and Aceh. In the process, Indonesia’s confidence and international profile was also promoted. Somehow, Jakarta was not able to jump-start such an effort to inculcate this noble approach. The expanded Bali Concord II was the compromise that the Asean members would concur with— obviously commensurate to Indonesia’s overall status at the time. The next 10 months will be crucial for two reasons. First and foremost, it has to do with the rise of Indonesia— a far cry from 2003—as a regional power with global influence. Any resumption of Thai-Cambodian hostilities could immediately undermine Jakarta’s unique position. Second, it will demonstrate if Asean really has the mettle to deal with internal conflict. One caveat is in order: whatever the outcome, in the long-run it would also have a ripple effect on succeeding chairs. If there was a precedence set forth at the Jakarta meeting, it was essentially the ability of family members to settle their own conflicts themselves. If the UN Security Council has to take up the Thai-Cambodian border issue again, it would deal a big slap in Asean’s face and further hamper the realisation of Asean as a political and secure community. With a report from Supalak Ganjanakhundee/The Nation (Thailand) 22 • The China Factor Growth of the dragon brings changes in Southeast Asia W ❖ Bangkok hat has China got to do with recent bloody clashes over a 900-year-old temple in South- east Asia? Beijing is not a party to the conflict, nor has it any stake in the territorial dispute between Cambodia and Thailand. And yet China, with its growing presence and influence in Indochina, is changing the power dynamics in the region. One key result has been the weakening of Thailand’s traditional economic domination in the neighbourhood as China steps up trade and investment in countries of the Greater Mekong Subregion, which besides Thailand includes Laos, Burma, Viet Nam and Cambodia. With Cambodia less reliant on the Thai growth engine, its Prime Minister, Hun Sen, has become emboldened to put up a tough fight against Thailand in its border dispute, some analysts say. The border clashes early February left at least three Thais and eight Cambodians dead. Given its proximity and longstanding ties, Thailand no doubt still plays a big role in Cambodia’s economy. Two-way trade last year was valued at about 81 billion baht (US$2.63 billion), up 20 per cent from the previous year. Thai businessmen have over 80 projects worth over $363 million in the country. But the Chinese presence in Cambodia has grown rapidly in recent years. In a paper last December, Australian academic Geoff Wade, currently with Singapore’s Institute of South East Asian Studies (Iseas), noted that there were 360 Chinese investment projects in Cambodia totalling $80 billion by the middle of last year. China recently waived $400 million worth of Cambodian debt. One of the largest Chinese-language schools in Southeast Asia is located in Phnom Penh. China also provides much of the Cambodian army’s equipment, say observers who have seen Cambodia’s military deployments at the disputed Preah Vihear temple site. In turn, Cambodia has cooperated with Beijing politically, sending 20 ethnic Uyghur asylum seekers back to China in 2009, for instance. Thai historian Thongchai Winichakul, in a recent talk in Bangkok, noted China’s neutrality on the Thai-Cambodian conflict, but acknowledged that “Cambodia is less dependent on Thailand than the Thais think”. At one time during the booming 1980s, Bangkok was the “logical centre” of the region, says Professor Michael Montesano of Iseas. Now, “Cambodia certainly, and Laos to a degree, have other opMarch 11-24, 2011 ALLIES: Cambodian Prime Minister Hun Sen (L) shakes hands with Chinese President Hu Jintao at the Great Hall of the People in Beijing on Dec 15, 2010. tions. Cambodia is more sophisticated now; they can pick and choose. In addition to China, with its huge demand and ability to penetrate markets, Singapore also comes into play.” Cambodia also has strong economic ties with Viet Nam as well as other countries like South Korea and Japan as it forges ahead with its growing network of international linkages. China’s rising profile in Indochina is not restricted to Cambodia. It is the same in Laos, where it has stepped up investments in agriculture and infrastructure. Its investment in infrastructure in Burma includes laying strategic gas and oil pipelines and port development. The Burmese-language Weekly Eleven reported recently that China poured more than $3 billion into the country from last November through March 11-24, 2011 January this year, bringing its cumulative investment since 1988 to $9.6 billion, above Thailand’s $9.56 billion. As for Thailand, its officials have described their country’s relationship with China as one between siblings. Bangkok is also positioning itself as a partner to China in the hopes of mutually benefiting from its growth. One example is the 45 billion baht ($1.4 billion) China City trading complex on the outskirts of Bangkok. When completed in two years, thousands of Chinese traders will operate from there, re-exporting Chinese-made goods from Thailand to avoid costly tariffs. The trading centre is expected to create an estimated 70,000 new jobs. “The economic might of China imposes a compelling calculation,” said an Asian diplomat of its burgeoning ties in mainland Southeast Asia. “With all these countries, because of proximity and land links, it is very difficult to ignore China.” But that is not to say there are no limits to China’s influence. In Thailand, the Chinese community has for generations been seamlessly integrated into the rest of Thai society. But in Burma, distrust of China among the older intellectual and military elites remains, and Burmese nationalism will be a brake on Chinese influence. And there is competition too. American officials have been open about the fact that the recent re-engagement of the United States, in the shape of a development initiative for lower Mekong countries, is an attempt to balance China’s surging economic influence. Viet Nam too has its own ambitions in the neighbourhood, along with historical baggage, having fought a ferocious border war with China in 1979. “They can’t ignore China. But because of their status as a new tiger and with a more self-confident and outward-oriented approach, Vietnamese officials often speak against China on issues,” said the Asian diplomat. This includes voicing concerns about Chinese claims to the South China Sea. Wade also noted in his paper that “Viet Nam is competing with China to bring both Laos and Cambodia within its own sphere of influence through increased trade, investments and political interaction.” Pragmatic self-interest and a fear of over-dependence can also act as a check on China’s influence. As Chan Sophal, president of the Cambodian Economic Association, told The Straits Times: “With more regional integration, there’s more open trade. Who you do business with depends on competitiveness. Different economies have different comparative advantages.” Or as Wade puts it, while Cambodia may have a widely held but rarely expressed reputation as a “client state” of China, “that doesn’t mean Prime Minister Hun Sen does whatever China wants”. • 23 CHANGING ASIA By Rupak D. Sharma Asia News Network LOOKING FOR DEALS: A woman in Beijing shops online at the Taobao website. Online Shopping Spree DELIVERYMAN: Cui Yunliang waits for clients to pick up packages near the gate of Beijing Foreign Studies University in Beijing, China. As e-commerce booms in China, deliverymen like Cui are running around in their bicycles loaded with packages. More Asians are picking up goods from online stores I ndian businessman Paby Khatra loves shopping. But the small town of Mansa in Punjab, from where he comes, does not have many shopping complexes where he can indulge in his favourite pastime. To fulfill his urge, he used to visit New Delhi. Nowadays, the 39-year-old turns to his computer. And with the click of the mouse purchases everything—available in the stores of the Indian capital—sitting at home or office. “Since I started buying online, I haven’t gone to a mall to buy a cologne,” he recently told The Straits Times. “You get good brands on low discounts which are not available elsewhere.” Indians, like Khatra, are finally getting the hang of online shopping, which was earlier limited to purchasing air and train tickets or books. The volume is still lower than in countries like the US, where the trend had become popular more than a decade ago, but looking at the growth in the number of people rushing to online stores, it gives a feeling that the market may take 24 • lesser time to mature than expected. For instance, Brandmile, an ‘invitation only’ online shopping club, has been able to gather 50,000 members since it started operation last April. Another online store, Bazaar.com, launched in October 2010, sees 50,000 hits per day. No wonder, India’s e-commerce market has swelled to around US$4.5 billion and is growing at an annual rate of 30-35 per cent. A look into other Asian markets shows similar growth trends. Singapore-based customers, for instance, spent nearly S$690 million (US$531 million) online last year, 15 times more than they did a decade ago. In Taiwan, sales in online marketplace is expected to jump to NT$358 billion ($12.1 billion) this year from NT$134 billion ($4.5 billion) in 2006. And in South Korea, online market is expected to grow by more than 20 per cent to 33.5 billion won ($29.8 million) this year. One of the reasons why many Asians are turning to online stores is convenience. MK How, 21, from Petaling Jaya in Malaysia, who spends about 40-100 ringgit ($13-$33) on online shopping a month, recently told The Star that she preferred online shopping “because it’s easier to survey different websites and there’s no sales person to harass me”. “Sometimes, I get a cheaper deal on the product of the same style found in branded stores,” she said. But 30-year-old shipping executive Amy Lee from the Malaysian state of Sarawak has a completely different reason for picking up goods online. She said she visits online shops because shopping at retail stores in her town is quite limited. In other words, online stores provides her access to local and international brands that are not available in her town. And this group of people is motivating many to set up online shops. Central, Thailand’s largest chain shopping complex, opened an online store three months ago, primarily to cater to this group, as it cannot set up real stores in rural areas due to small size of market, it’s vice president for e-business and customer service recently told The March 11-24, 2011 Nation (Thailand). It is the same in India, where smaller cities and towns contribute to around 40 per cent of the total online shopping sales. eBay India, which tracked its transactions through 2009 and last year, found that users from Delhi, Mumbai, Jaipur, Chennai and Bangalore were on top but a third of their 2.5 million users came from rural areas. Most of these rural users bought entry-level phones, desktops and clothes, according to eBay India. It is believed more people from India’s less developed areas will hit online stores in the coming days as Internet penetration is expected to rise to 237 million by 2015 from the present 81 million. According to the ‘2011 Outlook for the Retail & Consumer Products Sector in Asia’ by PriceWaterhouseCoopers, online commerce represents the next major area for retail growth in Asia. The report said that the growth in Asia will be fuelled by China as “online shopping in the country seems set to skyrocket”. March 11-24, 2011 Last year, the number of online shoppers in the country, which has the world’s largest number of Internet users, went up by almost 50 per cent to 160 million. Analysys International, a research company, said these people bought goods worth 520 billion yuan ($78.79 billion)—up 370 per cent. “The electronic device and garment sectors are the key drivers of the boom, while many exportoriented companies have shifted their business to the online market after the 2008 economic downturn,” Chen Shousong, an analyst from Analysys International, was quoted by China Daily as saying. South Korea’s large retailers are also all set to intensify competition online as more and more online stores open up due to high Internet penetration in the country and popularity of smartphones. Lotte Shopping, Shinsegae Group and Hyundai Department Store are strengthening their Internet and mobile business operations with plans to open new shops, broaden partnerships and improve user services such as in-store pickup options. Stores in other countries are also jumping in this bandwagon to make shopping more convenient for people. However, there are some unscrupulous retailers who are turning online shopping into nightmares for some shoppers. Complaints from users usually entail late or non-delivery of purchases, sales of defective goods and delay in issuing refunds. But on the flip side, sometimes it’s also the customers, who become nightmares for online store operators. Many of them have complained that some customers suddenly go missing after placing the order, while others keep delaying payment especially on cash-ondelivery purchases. Yet experts say, people who complain about their online shopping experiences form a minority and has not become a big scourge for the sector itself. Still, everyone must practice caution. • 25 P hoto by China Daily Photo by A FP v Bangkok LIFESTYLE SINGAPORE By Cara Van Miriah The Straits Times DANCING THE NIGHT AWAY: Youngsters dance at Phuture R&B Club in Singapore. LAU FOOK KONG / The Straits Times The Night Is Young Singapore’s youngsters have plenty to splash out on regular clubbing here is nothing like youthful spirits. Young clubbers splurging on bottles of spirits, that is. Meet the new highrollers on the nightlife scene in Singapore who have got club operators rubbing their hands in glee at the profits. Forget the old type of big spenders—the 40- and 50-something karaoke-loving uncles who favour cognac on-the-rocks. The new guard are tertiary students, young working adults and national servicemen aged between 18 and 25. The cashed-up club kids, sporting the latest trendy looks, flood dance floors on Wednesdays—ladies’ nights—and Fridays and Saturdays, dropping hundreds of dollars a visit. Instead of individual glasses of drinks, their tables are crammed with bottles of spirits and even champagne, each costing between S$150 (US$117) and S$200 (US$156). And naturally, clubs are going all out to woo them with theme parties, music gigs and drink deals. Kelvin Tan, 35, who runs Home Club at The Riverwalk, says: “Five years ago, only a handful were prepared to blow a couple of hundred dollars a night, but that is commonplace today. Youth are a lot savvier now, in terms of taste and finding ways to make extra cash.” Living at home with mum and dad and with no financial commitments, they have plenty to splash out on regular clubbing, thanks to earnings from part-time jobs and a monthly allowance from parents. Their motto: Got money, must party. Take Julius Lim, 23, a polytechnic student. Mum and dad, both office managers, give him a monthly allowance of S$650 (US$510). The younger of two children, who March 11-24, 2011 This age group’s expenditure is fast catching up with those aged 27 to 30. However, the main bulk of spenders are still professionals in their 30s and 40s, say operators. Still, when the youngsters hit the clubs, they show up in groups of four to five people—or more. That is how the nightspots make the big bucks. Powerhouse, for example, attracts up to 6,000 youth over three nights a week. That alone translates to at least S$90,000 (US$70,566) in door takings based on the lowest cover-charge of S$15 (US$11). The young people also stay longer, which translates to spending more on drinks. St James’ marketing manager GETTING THE GROOVE: Young girls party at The Butter Factory in Singapore. CASHED-UP KIDS: Brandon Phua (third from left), 24, a business management student, clubs with three friends thrice a week at Powerhouse dance club in St James Power Station in Singapore. increased pocket money and wages over the years. Spending is also made easier with credit cards. There are 215,605 credit card-holders in the 21 to 29 age group, who each has an average balance or amount spent of S$2,146 (US$1,682), as of December last year, according to the Credit Bureau Singapore. Industry observers estimate the 18- to 25-year-old segment contributes one-third, or about S$200 million (US$156.8 million), of the annual revenue in the lucrative nightlife industry here. There are more than 1,200 entertainment venues. March 11-24, 2011 Stephen Davies notes: “ The youth revenue accounts for 30 per cent of our group’s turnover. The 18 to 25 segment provides a renewable market, with many turning 18—the legal drinking age—every year. They represent a sizeable consumer market.” Those aged between 20 and 24 make up about 5 per cent, or 247,000 people, of the population here, according to demographic figures ending in June last year from the Department of Statistics Singapore. To woo them, Zouk organised more than 50 youth-centric events last year—a 20 per cent spike compared to 2009. Its sister outlet Phuture R&B Club will soon launch another new hip-hop night, ‘Tease’, as well as dazzle with a new look. The S$50,000 (US$39,200) revamp will see new podiums built near the dance floor and a DJ console to accommodate live acts. Instead of hiring young party promoters to bring in the crowd, many nightspots such as Zouk work with student bodies to offer discounted venue rates for student bashes and sometimes sponsor tertiary events held at the club. Fashion-centric events are usually a hit. For example, Zouk’s ‘Wardrobe’, where young designers showcase their works, and The Butter Factory’s ‘Fash Mob’, where fashion, arts and design students enjoy free entry, draw the trendy set. At ‘Fash Mob’, students create outrageous party wear and accessories, says marketing manager Adrian Wee, adding that the 18 to 25 segment accounts for 60 per cent of the club’s patronage. The hipsters are a discerning bunch who know a cheesy Europop track and a cutting-edge dance tune when they hear them. Tan of Home Club observes that even young clubbers appreciate established acts way before their time, such as drum ‘n’ bass Brit jocks Goldie and LTJ Bukem. They, too, know where the good drink deals are and are brand-conscious, say liquor suppliers. Alfred Goh, brand manager of alcohol distributor Pernod Ricard Singapore, says: “Young adult drinkers generally consume more white spirits such as tequila and vodka. Brands such as Absolut vodka are popular as they are associated with fashion and glamour. Young drinkers like to experiment with their drinks and vodka is a mixable spirit.” Liquor companies, however, are careful about being seen ‘pushing’ alcohol to impressionable young adults. Pernod Ricard, for example, has a global campaign, ‘Stomp On Drink Driving’, targeted at youth through events at clubbing precincts to drink responsibly. • 27 Photos by D E SM ON D W E E / The Straits T imes 26 • T ❖ Singapore lives in a three-room flat, says: “Going clubbing is a lot more fun than going to the movies. The vibe at the clubs is energetic, you get to check out the DJs and socialise, dance and drink. “If I can afford it, why stay home and miss out on the fun?” He visits nightspots Zirca and Rebel in Clarke Quay and Zouk off River Valley Road twice a week. Asked what his parents think of his lifestyle, he replies: “ T hey are cool with it so long I do well in school.” Compared with five years ago, the average expenditure for each person in the 18- to 25-year-old segment has doubled from S$30 (US$23) to S$60 (US$47) a visit, say club owners. This is also due to higher allowances for national servicemen and LIFESTYLE J A PA N By Chiyono Sugiyama The Daily Yomiuri Monster Hit Monster Hunter, one of the most popular video game series in Japan, has attracted not only boys but girls as well “I (C )CA P CO M CO. , LTD. 20 10 A LL RI GH TS R E S E RV E D ❖ Tokyo sn’t this cute,” Rie Kusunoki says, gesturing to a feline-shaped accessory hanging from her handbag. Many people likely mistake the cat for just another cartoon character. But those in the know will immediately recognise it as a Felyne, one of the hunter companions in Monster Hunter, one of the most popular video game series in Japan. PlayStation Portables (PSPs) seem to have become more ubiquitous during the morning train commute ever since Monster Hunter Portable 3rd (MHP3) went on sale late last year. In fact, many of the commuters seem to be busy hunting monsters on their way to work. Even at dinnertime, it’s not unusual to see young men pulling out their PSPs. The game has become the fastestselling title in PSP history, with 4 million units shipped in a single month— while total sales of video games in the country dropped below the 500-billion-yen (US$6.1 billion) mark last year, according to video game industry rag Enterbrain Inc. It has also become a social phenomenon and “let’s go hunting” has become a catchphrase among the gamers. Because of this craze, PSP devices, which have been on the market for about six years, are much harder to 28 • find these days as many people are buying them to play the new Monster Hunter game. In this game, gamers play the role of a hunter, who traverses mountain streams, tundra and desert planes on a variety of quests. These missions include not only killing, capturing and carving up monsters, but also collecting mushrooms, insects, nuts, honey and metals from the playing fields. The player can use these items to create a large variety of weapons, armour and potions. The game’s producer, Capcom’s Ryozo Tsujimoto, was pleased but not surprised at how well the title has been selling. “We set out to create a video game that would exceed what we had done with Monster Hunter Portable 2nd G.” Four million units of these games—including a discounted edition—have been shipped since it was released two years ago. Generally, the hardest part about creating a new video game is making it approachable for new gamers. “Just because somebody thinks a game looks like fun, he or she may be a bit reluctant to start so late into a series,” he says. “For MHP3, however, there is very little carried over from its predecessor. So, regardless whether you’ve played the earlier titles, everybody starts from scratch on this one.” This certainly made it easier for me to enter this world. I had been curious about the title—in no small part because some of my favourite celebrities frequently blogged about it—and picked it up without ever hav ing played any of the other games in the series. Other women, such as Hiromi Kaneko, were introduced to the game through friends who were already fanatics. She first heard about the game through the Felyne-loving Kusunoki, who has logged upward of 780 hours on MHP2G. “I had never really been interested in action games before,” Kaneko says. Their friends Rieko Takenaka and Natsumi Yoshida also have been playing since since Kusunoki got them hooked on to MHP2G. In fact, the number of female “hunters” may come as a bit of a surprise: Capcom’s Tsujimoto estimates that 15 to 20 per cent of the game’s followers are women and many of them had come to know about it through friends. For these four women, it is now the main topic of conversation. They discuss where and when they should meet up to play and recent finds on the gaming field. It is this sort of communication and cooperative gameplay that may be the real attraction for female gamers. Takenaka and Yoshida think of the game as a kind of communiMarch 11-24, 2011 cation tool because they have to cooperate with each other whenever they go hunting as a group. Kaneko remembers feeling a bit put off by the blood splatters whenever she killed a monster. “But now,” she says, “I realise the monsters are useful for creating armour and potions. Plus, the game is based on the idea of selfsufficiency, so my hunter will starve to death if I don’t hunt.” I, too, had the same reaction to the gore. But now that I’m used to it, I find my “hunter’s spirit” aroused whenever I watch the opening scenes of the game—especially looking at the formidable boss monster, Jinouga— and the nostalgic base camp at Yuku- For example, pacifist Felynes focus on gathering items from the fields in lieu of attacking the monsters; other Felynes act as a decoy to distract monsters trying to attack their master. T h e Fe l y n e C o m r a d e s w e r e introduced in MHP2G in an attempt to e xpand g amepl ay, according to Tsujimoto. “People playing by themselves tend to play at a much slower pace than gamers using multiplay mode,” he says. “But when it comes to training the Felynes, it is much better to play on your own. This is because you are only allowed one Felyne Comrade when playing with two hunters, and none when about 1,300 years ago—was decorated in MHP3 paraphernalia. “We saw a lot of young visitors at the hot spring during the event; some were there for the day, some spent the night,” says Noboru Seki, head of the Shibu hot spring hotel association. Capcom coined the idea of organising the promotional event, and the association decided to go ahead with it at the request of the younger members, who were familiar with the series. “Actually, a lot of the people coming here for the Monster Hunter event had never heard of our hot springs before. So, we were also successful in getting our name known among peo- mo Village, a fictitious village modelled on a traditional Japanese hot-spring resort. While I have come to enjoy the hunt, I also love to explore the fields, finding and collecting a large variety of useful items. Sometimes I even ignore my prey in favour of picking up some honey or metal ore. For many female gamers, the initial attraction may simply come down to the Felyne Comrade (known in Japanese as Otomo Airu). These cute cats help the hunters out on a quest, but also soften the game’s stark imagery, according to Takenaka and Yoshida. A player can select two Felyne companions to accompany them on their hunt. The cats’ equipment, armour and skill level also can be upgraded. Each of the characters has a distinctive personality and are a lot of fun to watch. playing with three or more.” MHP3 also allows gamers to exchange their Felynes with other players. It’s almost as if the companions somehow reflect their former owner’s personalities. To add to the fun, celebrity-trained Felynes are being made available via the Internet for a limited time. Their appeal lies not only in the fame of the creator, but also his or her hard-earned skill. Currently available are Felynes trained by comedian Satoshi Inoue from Jicho Kacho and former Morning Musume member Maki Goto. Both celebrities claim to have spent at least 2,000 hours on the series. Although Yukumo Village does not exist in the real world, the Shibu hot spring in Yamanouchimachi, Nagano Prefecture, does exist. From December 23 to January 10, the hot spring—which was discovered ple who weren’t all that interested in hot springs,” he says. Although the event is over, Seki says, MHP3 fans are still visiting the hot spring town. In March, six Japanese cities will play host to the Monster Hunter Festa 2011 event, providing a good opportunity for lone hunters to gather with others for a great multiplay ing experience. If you go, don’t forget to bring your own PSP—they may still be hard to find. March 11-24, 2011 (Monster Hunter Festa ‘11 will be held on March 13 at West Japan General Exhibition Centre in Fukuoka; on March 19 at Port Messe Nagoya in Nagoya; on March 21 at Makuhari Messe in Chiba; on March 27 at Sunfesta in Sendai; on April 3 at Sapporo Convention Centre in Sapporo; and on April 10 at Intex Osaka in Osaka. Admission is free. For information, visit www.capcom. co.jp/monsterhunter/P3rd/) • 29 MUSIC By Jean Oh The Korea Herald hen footage of The B l a c k Eye d Pe a s’ w il l.i.am work ing with girl group 2NE1 hit national television last year, it was a defining moment for the K-pop industry. Though the domestic industry had been enlisting the talent of overseas producers and composers for years, this collaboration took the whole situation to another level, not just in terms of exposure but also in terms of star power. “Our side had an opportunity to meet will.i.am,” Hwang Min-hee—PR Team Leader for 2NE1’s YG Entertainment—said in a phone interview. “He saw music videos (of the girls) and said he wanted to work with us.” The artiste of the Grammy Awardwinning hip-hop group met with the girls for three recording sessions in London and Los Angeles and churned out 10 tracks. Then, in early February, Black Eyed Peas tour DJ-and-co-producer Poet flew into Seoul with DJ Josh One to lay down some more tracks for 2NE1. “ This was my first time in Korea to work on K-pop,” DJ Josh One said via e-mail. “I was ver y impressed. YG’s sound and vibe seems to definitely stand out from eve30 • K-pop girl group SISTAR, whose single ‘I Don’t Like Weak Men’ was produced in collaboration with Grammy Award-winning producer Eliot Kennedy. rything else I have heard in Korea.” Since the late 1990s, the K-pop industry has rapidly grown, bulging out of its domestic market, spreading through Asia and entering European and American markets. Such rapid expansion has also spurred overseas interest from major producers and composers. Take Xperimental Entertainment for instance. The Los Angeles-based company founded by William Pyon and Kim Young-hu currently counts South Korean music goliath S.M. Entertainment as one of its biggest clients and has also worked with YG Entertainment, the company behind major Kpop acts BIGBANG and 2NE1. According to Xperimental CEO William Pyon, the amount of business based on hooking overseas composers and producers up with K-pop artistes has grown over the years. If before, it accounted for about 5 to 10 per cent of their business, now it takes up 50 per cent. Park So-young, assistant manager for the South Korean publishing arm of Xperimental, agreed that there has been an increase in such collaborations. “If there are 12 tracks then at least one of them is an overseas single,” she told The Korea Herald. “We get a lot of requests from en- tertainment companies for overseas composers these days,” she added. An increase in the number of prominent international producers and composers working with Korean entertainment companies, in turn, seems to be fostering even more interest in South Korean pop music abroad. Lars Halvor Jensen, whose Denmark-based company DEEKAY Music worked on Girls’ Generation’s Hoot, believes there is “massive potential for K-pop worldwide”. “Lots of people are tired of the ‘taking yourself so serious’ that a lot of Western artistes seem to have,” said Jensen, explaining the selling power of SM’s nine-member girl band via e-mail. “In a world marked by natural disasters and financial recession people need the positive energy that comes from listening to K-pop artistes’ records and seeing them perform.” DEEKAY first made contact with SM through a mutual acquaintance that pitched their song Holla to the South Korean entertainment company. The song became boy band SHINee’s single Hello. Then, DEEKAY and songwriter Alex James co-wrote Hoot, which Universal Music Publishing Group European artistes and repertoire executive March 11-24, 2011 Korean boy band SHINee also worked with DEEKAY on the single ‘Hello’. Pelle Liddell says he pitched to SM. Aside from writing and programming for SM’s Girls’ Generation and SHINee, DEEKAY, which was f o u n d e d by Je n s e n a n d M a r t i n Michael Larsson in 1998 and currently has studios in Copenhagen and Los Angeles, has also written and produced for major artistes like Diddy, Lil Wayne, Mis-Teeq and Ashley Tisdale. Though DEEKAY could easily stick to high profile Western acts, Jensen said “because of our fantastic experience with Asian artistes, we will focus a lot more on K-pop and J-pop markets” this year. Xperimental CEO Pyon, whose company also has branches in Seoul and Tokyo, believes that one of the reasons more overseas producers and composers are looking to South Korea is because “the music industry really took a slump”. “I think that has a lot do with a lot of interest now from foreign writers as well as American writers to break into the Asian market,” he said over the phone. Pyon, who not only worked with SM and YG but also on projects featuring major artistes like the late 2Pac, attributes the industr y downturn to technolog y. The Internet fostered digital downMarch 11-24, 2011 loads which led to decreased album sales. Also, says Pyon, the advent of technology narrowed the gap between home and professional recordings. For now, domestic composers and producers still dominate the K-pop industry. There is no denying the increased presence, however, or at the least increased publicity, of overseas collaborations. Indeed, Starship Entertainment’s collaboration with Grammy Awardwinning producer Eliot Kennedy on SISTAR’s single I Don’t Like Weak Men represents one of the company’s first forays into working with foreign talent. The positive experience, according to Seo, has left the company wanting to continue such explorations in the future. Kennedy, in turn, is also interested in working with more Korean artistes. “I will be heading out to Korea in the next couple of months to hopefully work with some artistes and local writers and producers,” he said via e-mail. As for high profile collaborations, will.i.am’s work with 2NE1 may be the most televised of the day but it is certainly not the first. YG’s Se7en worked with female rap artiste Lil’ Kim for his US single Girls and BIGBANG hotties G-Dragon and T.O.P. with American DJ Photo by YG E ntertainment W ❖ Seoul Girls’ Generation worked with Lars Halvor Jensen, from the Denmark-based company DEEKAY Music, on ‘Hoot’. Photo courtesy of S M E ntertainment Western artistEs, producers turn to K-pop to expand overseas markets Photo courtesy of Starship E ntertainment K-POP Photo courtesy of S M E ntertainment TIME TO Girl group 2NE1 made waves last year when footage of them working with Black Eyed Peas’ will.i.am hit national television. Diplo for Knock Out. JYJ—the boy band formed by three TVXQ idols-gone-independent—collaborated with famed rapper-and-record producer Kanye West on their first album The Beginning last year. Not everyone, however, is looking specifically to work with famous acts. “Yes and no,” Pyon said about whether or not he feels the pressure to orchestrate more headline-grabbing collaborations. “If you want publicity or if you’re looking into publicity, then, yeah, it’s definitely worthwhile to do that.” An SM Entertainment artistes and repertoire publishing representative said that they were “open to the possibility” of working with famous artistes but that they are more focused on the quality of the “song” itself. One thing is for certain, collaborations like that of will.i.am and 2NE1 point to the increasing international influence of K-pop. “Nowadays a lot of producers, they know who these artistes are,” Pyon said about overseas recognition of SM and other K-pop acts. “It’s telling me that the K-pop scene has really evolved into almost a mainstream aspect of the industry.” “A lot of American producers know as much about or even more about Jpop and K-pop than even me. • 31 BOOK BANGKOK By Manote Tripathi The Nation (Thailand) In one elegantly crafted bowl, bencharong serves Sino-Siamese diplomacy, palace intrigue, even a civil servant’s murder 32 • T ❖ Bangkok he five-colour porcelain known as bencharong represents the glory of Siamese culture. It was made in China—but exclusively for Siamese royalty It came to symbolise the opulence of the Chakri Dynasty court, as well as Bangkok’s prosperity. You won’t see many of the original pieces in our museums, however, or even in the palaces open to the public. They’re in the private collections of well-to-do citizens. “These pieces are expensive—a bencharong bowl can fetch 500,000 baht (US$16,323)—so you can’t expect to see them in public,” says Pim Prapai Bisalputra, who, with Jeffery Sng, has produced a book that finally offers a broad accounting of these treasures. Sng and Pim spent three years writing “Bencharong & Chinaware in the Court of Siam: The Surat Osathanugrah Collection”, the most comprehensive coffee-table book on the subject in English to date. Surat—a politician who was also an acclaimed photographer—owned what was arguably the largest collection in the Kingdom. Before he died he commissioned the authors to write specifically about his bencharong rather than his blue-and-white chinaware, a better-known subject. Pim, whose great grandfather, Phraya Bisanpholpanich, imported Chinese porcelain to Bangkok, says she and Sng set out to share the whole story of bencharong, to “tell the world that how successful the Chakri Dynasty was in running the country”. “We wanted to write about bencharong because it represents the art of the Siamese royal court. Bencharong was originally made only for the royal court of Siam, and not many people know this.” Their research led to Ayutthaya in the 15th century, when the kings had blue-and-white Ming porcel ain adorned with Siamese motifs. These pieces were the original “colourware” and the precursors to bencharong—the name literally means “five colours”. The royal court of Ayutthaya placed customised orders for bencharong from China. March 11-24, 2011 PHOTO S COU RTE SY OF JEFFERY SNG & PI M PRAPAI BI SALP U TRA History In Five Colours Technology improved during the Qing D ynasty in the 1800s that enabled more colours to be applied to the ceramics, and bencharong was coming to Siam by the late Ayutthaya Period.The decoration is intricate, and the multi-coloured glaze tends to be opaque, with extensive use of white enamel. The Surat collection includes fine examples of late-Ayutthaya bencharong in both green and pink—famille verte and famille rose. Precious few pieces survived the Burmese army’s destruction of the old capital in 1767. The best were probably smashed in the bombardment or carried off by looters. What did survive was handed down through calling the prince glazing, colour“ t h e d o ye n o f ing and enamelThai culture and ling began to music”. take on different “After 1932 evecharacteristics. rybody sold their T here was heirlooms.” nothing more It’s been luxurious than claimed that it the Chakri Dytook the prince’s nasty tea sets, ∫ Authors Pim Prapai Bisalputra and Jeffery aide a full month Pim says. Sng during their book’s launch. to liquidate the Siam’s tribute millions of baht trade came to an abruptend in 1851 when a diplomatic worth of porcelain. Many of these pieces mission dispatched there by King ended up on sale in the Werng Makhon Rama IV was robbed between Canton Kasem Market. Royal interest in the once-coveted and Beijing and an interpreter was ceramics declined with the advent of murdered. Siam began importing porcelain capitalism. At the same time, with the from Europe instead, regarding it as easing of restrictions on design, common people found they could now higher quality anyway, Pim says. the generations as family heirlooms. The most commonly seen bencharong came from rural temples where it was hidden in the midst of war and the subsequent raids of profiteers. Sng points out that Bangkok was bigger and more prosperous than any previous Siamese capital. Trade relations were early on established with the Qing court, and with them the resumption of custom orders for chinaware for the royal household. “Colourware became the signature porcelain of the Qing court,” Pim says. “Thai tastes switched from blue and white to colourware, which led to the creation of bencharong for the Siamese court.” The bencharong sent to Bangkok was of higher quality than anything seen in Ayutthaya or T honburi, she adds. T he patterns, motifs, “After 1851,” Sng points out, “no court officials were sent to China to oversee the production of bencharong as they’d done during the early Bangkok period. They had always gone to make sure the designs and motifs conformed to the royal specifications.” Nevertheless, later in Rama V’s reign, he pursued an enthusiasm for collecting Chinese porcelain, especially tea sets. The story of Siam’s chinaware and benjarong is full of intrigue. Pim laments that, after Siam’s 1932 shift from absolute to constitution monarchy, much of the royal porcelain collection went missing, especially the vast array owned by the Prince of Nakhon Sawan, who fled into exile in Indonesia. “He had only one day to collect his belongings before leaving,” Pim says, March 11-24, 2011 afford pricey tea sets - bearing illustrations from old folktales rather than the delicate motifs of old. The authors credit royalty for Bangkok’s runaway economic success. “Ayutthaya was 400 years old. Bangkok is 200 years old,” says Sng. “We know we live better in Bangkok than they did in Ayutthaya—the economic prosperity is obvious today. “But we’ll need to wait another 200 years for a final judgement as to which dynasty was more solid,” says Sng, noting that Ayutthaya has more dynasties than Bangkok. ‘Bencharong & Chinaware in the Court of Siam: The Surat Osathanugrah Collection’ is available at Asia Books in Thailand for 2,200 baht ($72). • 33 PEOPLE By Pocholo Concepcion Philippine Daily Inquirer By Pocholo Concepcion Philippine Daily Inquirer Advice For A Rising Star Ranked as one of five richest Filipinos in the international scene, Charice has been advised by mentor Oprah Winfrey not to fall in love yet W ❖ Manila hatever Oprah Winfrey says, Filipino pop sensation Charice Pempengco follows. “The last time we talked, she told me not to fall in love or have a boyfriend yet,” the 18-year-old Filipino international pop star said, referring to her benefactor and main career adviser. “I agree with her because I myself am not ready for that. In Miss Oprah’s eyes, I’m still a baby.” The petite Pinay admitted she did have a crush on Justin Timberlake, whom she met in 2009. “I sang for him at an event and my knees started shaking when he smiled at me. I nearly forgot the lyrics,” she recalled, laughing. But has she ever fallen in l o v e ? “There are guys who are hovering... but that’s about it,” she replied, adding that her mom has even allowed her to entertain suitors. Charice pointed out that Winfrey— who topped the list of godparents during her church baptism last year—plays a key role in her US management’s 34 • decisions: “Miss Oprah is part of the Charice team. We seek her permission for every project that I do, like Glee. When I went to a number of auditions, including some movie projects, there were a few of them that Miss Oprah didn’t like. She’s very strict. She doesn’t like kissing scenes.” It was actually US TV host Ellen DeGeneres who gave Charice her break on American television by inviting her to guest on The Ellen DeGeneres Show on Dec 19, 2007. Winfrey took the singer under her wing the following year, after Charice made a series of guest stints on The Oprah Winfrey Show. A powerful and influential media mogul named by Forbes magazine as the richest African- American of the 20th century, Winfrey made one phone call to record producer/songwriter David Foster and asked what he could do for Charice. Foster responded by putting Charice on his concert tour lineup. Then he signed her to a record deal with Warner USA. Foster likewise tapped his (and Josh Groban’s) m a n a g e r, M a r c Johnston, to handle Charice’s international business deals. The last time she performed in Manila, on January 8, local media men were miffed. Reporters who had regularly covered her arrivals and concerts wondered why, suddenly, she had too many bodyguards and couldn’t give interviews. “My US management is superstrict and I just follow,” Charice explained. As for other criticisms—for instance, a tabloid columnist wrote that her new signature look with oversized eyeglasses as a recurring character on the hit US TV show Glee didn’t quite fit her—Charice said: “I don’t take negative comments badly. That’s an opinion, and I consider it as an advice.” She recalled that she tried putting on the glasses while preparing for her role as exchange student Sunshine Corazon in Glee. She was afraid the producers wouldn’t like it, she recounted, “But they did. I actually told them that I had worn reading glasses as a student in the Philippines.” Using Wayfarers, she said, was a personal choice. No, RayBan is not sponsoring it. “How I wish!” Charice quipped. The rigors of a busy schedule requires Charice to observe a strict diet now. “Less rice and no fried foods,” she disclosed. She has also started a training programme in an LA gym. “My trainer wants me to develop my abs. The things I have to do are difficult because I’m quite heavy,” she complained. Asked how it felt to be ranked among the Top 5 richest Filipinos who have made it in the international scene, Charice said: “I don’t know that I’m rich. I’m able to provide for my family. I bought my mom a house; and my brother, a car. As for me, I’m happy that I can buy all the gadgets that I want.” The website celebritynetworth. com estimates Charice’s current worth at US$12 million. She recently bought a Blackberry Torch and an iPhone G4, she said, adding, “I also collect GShock watches. What I want to buy next is a van.” March 11-24, 2011 New Star On The Tube After impressing American singer Lady Gaga, will Maria Aragon follow in Charice’s footsteps? N ❖ Manila ew YouTube sensation Maria Aragon is only 10 years old but has enough confidence to say she “loves to entertain”. The dusky Filipino-Canadian, a resident of Winnipeg, Manitoba, is also given to saying, “Music is me”, and that she got into singing because of Beyonce. These and other information, posted on the YouTube channel that her older sister created for her, had gone pretty much unnoticed—until last month, when Lady Gaga got into the picture. On February 16, Aragon posted a video of herself singing, while playing on the piano, Lady Gaga’s latest No. 1 single, Born This Way. Entertainment blogger Perez Hilton forwarded the video to Lady Gaga, who not only gave glowing comments, but also invited Aragon to sing with her onstage in a Toronto concert early this month. Aragon also went on The Ellen DeGeneres Show, recounting to the host the amazing turn of events that led to the outspoken Isaac Brock School fifth grader breaking into tears while talking on the phone with the US singer-songwriter. That was during a guesting at Toronto’s Virgin Radio 99.9 FM. Aragon told DeGeneres, “She (Lady Gaga) said she was having a bad day (and that) I made her day. March 11-24, 2011 It’s really overwhelming.” DeGeneres was obviously impressed, noting that the video had so far generated over 11 million hits. What was it about Aragon’s video that bowled over a top performer famous worldwide for theatrical stunts? It was simple—and yet different. While the hit song’s original studio version is a full-on dance track, Aragon’s cover is a ballad, the better to underscore the lyrics about em- powerment: “My mama told me when I was young/ We are all born superstars …” Aside from the young Filipina’s youth and verve, what charmed Lady Gaga was that the slower version gave the song a whole new dimension, and somehow diverted early comparison with Madonna’s Express Yourself. Reviewing Born This Way on rollingstone.com, Rob Sheffield had previously written: “Despite the obvious tip of the cap to Ma- donna’s Express Yourself (which was just Madge’s knock-off of the Staple Singers’ Respect Yourself), it’s steeped in decades of gay disco tradition—it sounds a lot like Patrick Hernandez’s 1978 classic Born To Be Alive. Born This Way sums up all the complex Gaga mythos, all her politics and Catholic angst and smeared lipstick, in one brilliant pop blast.” It may unsettle conservative folks to hear a kid like Aragon mouthing the song’s pro-gay/lesbian sentiment (“Don’t be a drag/Just be a queen/… You’re black, white, beige, c h o l a d e s c e n t / Yo u ’ r e L e b a n e s e, yo u’ r e O r i ent!”). But, as Aragon says on her YouTube channel: “I’m using this to share (with) everyone my gift of music and the talent that God gave me. I sing, I giggle, I laugh …” She adds that, although she’s never been to the Philippines, she considers herself a Filipina, having been raised by Filipino parents in Canada. She lives with her dad Bienvenido and mom Mitchilin and two siblings. Also on YouTube, the budding musician reveals that she has not taken formal music lessons: “There are no music sheets, I figured the chords out myself and it’s all by ear.” After Arnel Pineda and Charice Pempengco, this new Filipino YouTube star is not only younger—she also seems poised to explore everything that the world can offer. • 35 POPLAND By Yasminka Lee Asia News Network Jay Chou’s Era The Taiwanese superstar marks 10 years of his music through a $15-million-world tour that showcases 3D technology M ❖ Kuala Lumpur PH OTO S BY TH E STAR ore than 10 years ago, a 21-year-old young man with looks unlikely to qualify him into Taiwan’s idol-obsessed entertainment industry released an album. The album was made up of songs he wrote but were rejected by established singers. It became a surprise hit and a new star was born: Jay Chou. A decade later, Chou is Taiwan’s biggest marquee not only in the music world but even in the movies; he has recently stepped into Hollywood. His debut as Kato in The Green Hornet was received positively by the internation- 36 • al audience even if the movie itself was not that popular with the critics. Zhang Ziyi, Michelle Yeoh and Chow Yun Fat aside, his is the only successful foray into Hollywood by an Asian star of his age so far. But it is Chou’s brand of music that brought him fame. He is not the ordinary pop star who only knows how to dance and has a passable singing voice. He has been trained in classical music since he was three years old and considers Chopin his favourite composer. This musical ingenuity is still very evident a decade later. It’s one thing to listen to his CDs or watch DVDs of his concerts, but it’s an entirely different March 11-24, 2011 experience watching him perform live. At his recent concert at the national stadium in Kuala Lumpur, Chou wowed not only the young crowd but even the more discerning ones including the editor-in-chief of The Star newspaper who tweeted that he got “dragged” into watching it but ending up being so impressed he described the concert as “amazing”. Chou’s current concert tour, dubbed The Era, marks his 10 years in the industry. He opened it in his hometown, Taipei, last year, and has since brought it to China, Hong Kong, Singapore, the US, Canada, and last weekend, Malaysia. For non-fans, The Era concert is a good introduction to Chou’s discography as he incorporated old hits that he does not sing anymore in recent concerts. Usually, he would cover songs from his recent album but since this marks his decade in the industry, he made sure to include old school songs like Love Before the Century, Black Humour, Dad I’m Back and Nunchucks, which was featured in The Green Hornet. In the KL leg, it was a pleasant surprise to watch Chou sing Simple Love and Common Jasmine Orange, two of his very popular songs from his second and fifth albums, respectively. Of course choosing what songs to include in the 10th anniversary concert was daunting considering that Chou has released 10 original albums to date. “There’s too many songs, when we were choosing songs it was vexing,” Chou said in a previous interview before he launched the concert tour. The visual effects that used laser and 3D technology cost US$15 million, and the production team had to recreate the same stage in his overseas concerts, as well as transport the white nouveau art piano that he uses for the “seasons” part of the show. On March 4 and 5, the stadium in Malaysia’s Bukit Jalil was transformed into a land of light sticks, majority of them in neon pink, pink being Chou’s favourite colour that even the concert shirts were in pink too. The dancers and two of the guitarists wore pink pants and the nunchuks at the finale were in neon pink, but of course. Obviously, Chou is one guy who is not March 11-24, 2011 scared to go pink and his fans even find it adorable, not feminine. Fans have also noted that Chou— dubbed as the ‘king of mumblers’ for his habit to mumble through his songs—is more relaxed now in interacting with the audience, unlike his earlier concerts where he simply dazzled with his singing and piano-playing, aside from the occasional flash of nel were not successful despite having Chou behind them. Perhaps he has money to burn or he just wants to pay forward for the success he has achieved in the last decade helping out lesser known friends by featuring them in his projects. After all, without friends who believed in him like TV host Jacky Wu, Chou may still be writing songs for other artistes or UP CLOSE: Fans in KL go wild as Chou goes down the stage during his concert on March 5. his dimples that was enough to send fans into a tizzy. Chou in fact joked with the Kuala Lumpur crowd and if some were not sold on him yet, totally won them over when he sang “Malaysia wo ai ni (I love you)” at the end of Love Before the Century. The KL leg almost religiously followed the set list of the Taipei one except for a few subtraction and addition here and there. He also played the guitar, did the beatbox and performed magic. He was joined by Lara, Cindy Yen and the Drifters—all of who are under his music company, JVR. But there was no Jolin Tsai, his ex-though-never-admitted-girlfriend, who surprised the audience on the third night of his Taipei concert with a brief number with Chou. Outside the concert venue, CDs and DVDs of his albums, concerts and movies were being sold. There were even DVDs of Pandamen, a television drama that he produced and directed, as well as Mr. J Channel, his short-lived talk show. However, Pandamen and Mr. J Chan- teaching piano to students who will never dream of becoming a Jay Chou simply because he remains unknown. Chou’s fans should not only thank Wu and the others who believed in his talent, but even those singers who rejected his songs because that served as an avenue to launch his career. Or perhaps it all goes down to “yuanfen”, a Chinese concept that Chou himself believes in. Yuanfen refers to the predetermined principle that dictates a person’s relationships and encounters and believes that there is a binding force that links two persons together. Chee, one of Chou’s Malaysian fans said: “It’s really awesome that with the power of Jay, we can make new friends and know each other.” That is one of Chou’s greatest achievement in his decade in the entertainment business, on how he has brought together people from all walks of life and culture through his music, including those who don’t even speak nor understand Mandarin. [email protected] • 37 ENTERTAINMENT INDIA By Devraj Singh Kalsi The Straits Times SWEET AND STRONG SUCCESS: A-list actor Aamir Khan is one of the most successful Bollywood stars who can tread from heavy action to light-hearted comedies. Both his films ‘3Idiots’ (left) and ‘Ghajini’ are critically acclaimed and certified box office hits. Protean Actors Bollywood actors begin with romantic roles and then get eager to essay all kinds of characters, even if these don’t fit them M ❖ Mumbai any actors in Bollywood take the romantic route to begin the career. Once accepted as a lover, they felt confident of spending the entire career doing romantic roles. The reality is different now. As time flows, they feel the urge to try out action or comedy in order to prove their versatility and also discover a new strength to cash in on for some years. They want to broaden their appeal by exploring other categories, and are open to the idea of doing different kinds of roles, no matter how challenging and demanding. Two decades ago, it was difficult to think of Aamir Khan as an action hero though he did try a film called Raakh, which not many people have heard about. In QSQST, he was such a cute lover boy that people loved 38 • his other films like Dil Hai Ki Maanta Nahin. Now we have seen him as a rowdy and brawny hero in Ghulam and Ghajini. It is not that he realised that he was not going to click as a romantic dude anymore. What triggered this decision was to reach out to patrons all kinds of cinema and surprise his detractors pregnant with straitjacketed ideas of what suits an actor. An actor is like clay, to be moulded in any shape. But do we see that happening very often in Bollywood? It is laudable that actors want to crack one image to build a new one, and certainly a better one. To stay connected as a youth icon, they need to reinvent themselves. Youngsters will not like the lover in QSQST because it is more than two decades old. 3Idiots will be fresher and closer to the heart, and the lead hero will be able to connect as a romantic college guy though the actor’s biological age is fit to be Principal. Aamir has tried breezy comedies like Andaz Apna Apna and serious dramatic stuff like Lagaan. He has also done a cult film, Dil Chahta Hai, showing how to click with the new-age crowd. Some actors decide to quickly mix the three main ingredients —romance, comedy and action—while some wait to exploit one side completely before switching to the next. Some also do one romantic film and alternate it with an action-packed one. To keep both candy floss lovers and gun-toting lovers happy. In the ‘80s, India saw Sunny Deol launching himself as a romantic hero in Betaab. Then the lover delivered a string of flops like Manzil Manzil, Sohni Mahiwal and Sunny. Upset, he went hammer and tongs in Arjun. The film gave him a breather though March 11-24, 2011 he did not get consistent success in action films. Then came Dacait where his fully-loaded horse-driven action brought moderate success. The feisty side of his personality was successfully portrayed in Damini, Ghayal, Ghatak, Jeet, Narsimha, Kshatriya. He read the writing on the wall and concentrated on muscles, though there were other contenders like Sanjay Dutt who seemed to be in love with guns all the time. When we talk of action and romance to kick start career, Mithun Chakraborty stole the limelight by deciding to put on his dancing shoes to leave an impact. Although dance was the highlight, there was action and romance to pep it up. Viewers were not quite amused by the dancing skills of Amitabh Bachchan, and there was a wide gap waiting to be filled. Other actors in the ‘70s, except Rishi Kapoor, had not tried to March 11-24, 2011 experiment with disco. Soon, dance staged a comeback as Jeetendra also decided to wear white shoes and dance away to success in the fag-end of his career, thanks to the trend started by Mithun. Mithun excelled on the dance floor in Disco Dancer and had other dance-related films to capitalise on the craze. Another strong contender for malleability is Ajay Devgan who began with action in Phool aur Kaante and impressed that he could juggle action and romance. He delivered hits like Kachhe dhaage and also crackled with comedies like Ishq and Golmaal series. In the early days, Akshay kumar began with action and was known as Khiladi. He jumped many roofs and fired a lot, but his comic side got a boost with Hera Pheri and he went on to repeat it in Bhool Bhulaiyya to emerge as a complete entertainer. Salman Khan focused on love in the ‘80s and ‘90s when Rajshri productions favoured him. Romantic hero took a back seat after Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam when he tried to flaunt muscles and removed his shirt. Since then, he has focused on brawn and has delivered hits like Wanted whereas dramas like Yuvraaj, London Dreams fell flat. Dabangg proved to be the proverbial icing on the cake. Let us not forget that Govinda had launched himself as an action and dancing star in Ilzaam like Mithun, and in his early phase he did films like Hatya, Marte Dam Tak, Tan Badan. Similar trajectory for Anil Kapoor who began as an angry man in Meri Jung, Karma and Tezaab and later switched to mint-fresh romance in 1942—A love story. Other hits like Ram Lakhan, Beta and Mr India offered him some idea that his comic side was strong. • 39 CULTURE CHINA By Foong Thim Leng The Star they had to endure harsh weather conditions, and fend off attacks by wild animals and raids by bandits. After years of wandering, the wear y Hakkas finally found a valley where they could build a new life. They cleared the land and worked from dawn to dusk to construct their earthen houses with clods of earth. T he clan elders decided to build a home with a large courtyard that would allow clan members to live closely together. Building materials consisted of red soil mixed with strips of bamboo, sand and stone, a watery glutinous rice paste, brown sugar and egg whites. The earliest of the extant earthen buildings were constructed more than 1,200 years ago in 769 during the Tang dynasty (618-907). Many of the earthen dwellings date from the Song (960-1279) and Yuan (1279-1368) dynasties. Structures from the Ming dynasty (1368-1644) can be seen everywhere. Of course, most UFOs: The World Heritage Tianluokeng complex in Nanjing looks like UFOs from far. Heritage Homes Of Hakkas These old houses transport visitors to another time zone F Photos by Foong T him Leng / The Star ❖ Fujian rom far, the circular-shaped tulou or earthen buildings in China’s Fujian province resemble grounded UFOs. In the 1960s, they even startled American spy jet pilots who thought that they were missile launchers. There are over 20,000 tulou in China, and most of them are concentrated in the Yongding, Nanjing and Hua’an counties. They are not secret weapons of mass destruction but China’s national treasures. The tulou crystallises the industrious lifestyle of the Hakka and their wisdom. History records that the ancestors of the Hakka people had mi40 • Idylic setting: A tulou by the riverside in Yongding. g ra t e d s o ut hwa rd s from the Central Plains of China to escape the turmoil of the Yongjia period (304-312 AD) and the wartime ravages of the late Tang dynasty and the Song dynasty. The young and the elderly left their homes behind and travelled in grief and despair across the Yellow River and the Yangtze with their clothing, valuables, pots and pans, poultry, horses and pigs, and the bones of their ancestors kept in jars, towards an uncertain future. As they traversed the high mountain ranges of southwestern Fujian, like an amphitheatre. The exotic earthen dwellings that were unknown for so many years had in 2008 gained recognition as World Cultural Heritage buildings. Our guide Siao Huang said the Tianluokeng complex in Nanjing was commonly referred to as “four dishes, a soup”. Siao said the founder of Tianluokeng was from Aoyao in Yongding on the other side of the mountain. According to genealogical records, his name was Huang Baisanlang. He chose to settle in Taxia because of its favourable feng shui. Huang scraped together a fortune raising ducks to build the earthen dwellings. Another story was that a fairy fell in love with him and helped him build the earthen buildings. Welcoming: The Fuyu tulou in Yongding which is now a hotel. were built between the time of Qing dynasty’s Kangxi emperor (1661-1722) and the 20th century. Most of the earthen buildings are circular, square, or phoenix-shaped (mansion style). Others are oblong, in the shape of the Eight Trigrams or crescent-shaped. Yongding, located in western Fujian on the border with Guangdong, has more than 4,000 tulou, some circular, some square while others are shaped March 11-24, 2011 The square-shaped tulou named Buyun was constructed in 1796. It has three storeys with 26 rooms on each floor. The circular building called Hechang is on Buyun’s right. It also has three storeys with 22 rooms on each floor. In 1936, both Buyun and Hechang were burned down by bandits and were rebuilt in 1953. T he other c ircul ar building , Zhencheng, was built in 1930, while Ruiyin was built in 1936. Both are three storeys high with 26 rooms on each floor. The last building, Wenchang, was constructed in 1966. It is ovalshaped and like the others, has three storeys with 32 rooms on each floor. Our group made a stop at Xiaban, a village 4km away from Tianluokeng. Twelve earthen buildings are scattered on both sides of the river. The most famous earthen building here is Yuchang. March 11-24, 2011 We were surprised when our guide pointed out to us slanting supporting pillars in the corridor on the third and upper floors. Siao said the pillar with the biggest tilt was slanted at 15 degrees. He assured us that the building was in no danger of collapsing after surviving the elements and even earthquakes for more than 600 years. Siao said construction of Yuchang began in the middle years of the Yuan dynasty (1271-1368) through the cooperation of the Liu, Luo, Zhang, Tang and Fan families. The building has five storeys with 54 rooms on each floor. It is divided into five large units, each with its own staircase. The ancestral hall is located in the middle of the courtyard. Yuchang was originally a seven-sto- dents heard the tiger’s roar. “The Lius interpreted the roar as a congratulatory message from the tiger on the completion of the building. The next day, we visited the famous Zhencheng building in Hongkeng village in Yongding. Zhencheng stands on 500sqm of land and was built by a descendant of Lin Zaiting, who was the 19th generation of the Lin clan in Hongkeng village. During the Taiping Rebellion (18501864) Lai Zaiing took his three sons to seek shelter in Fushi in Yongding, and to learn to be blacksmiths making tobacco cutters. Later the Lin brothers returned to Hongkeng and established the first factory producing tobacco cutters. They became rich and opened shops in Guangzhou, Shanghai and other major cities. They first built Fuyu, a mansionstyle square earthen building. Later one of the brothers, Lin Renshan, built Zhencheng. The couplet on the main door of Zhencheng reads: “Establish princiA hall in Fuyu tulou Massive: The circular Yuchang in Yongding ples and discipline; earthen building in Nanjing from the outside. bring about virtue and talent”. rey building. A fire broke out before Zhencheng is shaped like the Eight work was completed. Trigrams, with inner and outer rings. “A group of outsiders had come to The four storeys of the outer rings are pay respects to their ancestors at the 16m high and have 184 rooms. The tombs behind the building. However, two storeys of the inner ring have 32 the wind blew some of the burning rooms. The outer ring is divided into notes into the building and set fire to eight large sections. the pillars on the seventh floor. The From the Zhencheng building, an Yuchang residents considered it a bad ancient cobblestone path continues omen, and so the sixth and seventh along the mountain stream. On either floors were done away with,” said Siao. side of the path are earthen buildings He said the residents later noticed scattered along the riverside and in that the supporting pillars in the cor- the open country. Large banyan trees ridors on the third and higher floors provided shade for people to rest on were slanted and they became fearful the stone benches. There is also a that the building would collapse. small local temple dedicated to Mazu, “However, at dusk, a tiger wandered the sea goddess. into the building and moved along the It is little wonder that the tulou of corridors like a high-ranking official Fujian continue to draw in tourists, during inspection. Then it jumped for they enable one to feel the pulse of from a rear window and escaped into the rich Hakka culture that has surthe woods behind. That night the resi- vived the passage of time. • 41 TRAVEL By Alexis Hooi China Daily LIFETIME EXPERIENCE: This handout photo shows Chinese tourists trying to board a hot air balloon in Tuscan countryside. VIP: Chinese tourists are being ferried by a helicopter from Nice in France to Monte Carlo. Riding High L ❖ Beijing HA ND OU T PHOTO S/CH INA DA ILY China’s wealthy travellers are spending huge amount of money on more unusual, exotic and over-the-top travel packages 42 • Driving speeds were generally limited to below 120 km/h, but there were opportunities and stretches for the drivers to let the cars rip and flaunt the full capabilities of the vehicles. “We already had agreements with the clients over driving speed and safety as well as compensation for any vehicles damages incurred,” Zou says. “But of course, we had to remind them of such considerations very carefully as they were rich people and we did not want to seem too nitpicky.” Over the five days of driving along a 500-km route to Rome, the party stayed in luxury chateaus, dined in ast summer, tour specialist Zou Wenwen helped organise a driving trip for a group of 10 Chinese travellers in Italy. But it was no ordinary tour—her clients paid 200,000 yuan (US$30,300) each for a weeklong luxury package that centred on driving Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati supercars along the Italian Riviera. “These were ultra high-end customers,” Zou says. “They were mostly from the real estate and investment sectors. We also had people from the restaurant business as well as a sculptor.” The group was first flown by helicopter from Nice in France to Monte Carlo, the famous playground of the rich and famous, for an “orientation” on handling the supercars. They travelled in a convoy of five cars—a Ferrari 599 GTB Fiorano and F430 Spider, Lamborghini Gallardo and Murciegalo, and a Maserati GranTurismo—headed by a local motoring expert. The Chinese drivers would take turns trying out the cars during the package. March 11-24, 2011 Michelin-starred restaurants and toured vineyards. Highlights also included medieval-themed performances and a hot-air balloon trip to catch the rising sun in Tuscany’s countryside before breakfasting in a picnic in the hills. The driving package, offered jointly by luxury tour operators Trip TM and Dream Italy, was so successful another one is being organised this year. But the group will be kept small to keep the trip exclusive, Zou says. The package itself is part of new luxury travel options for Chinese tourists that include custom-made trips to exotic locations like Bhutan and the Arctic as well as more Epicurean experiences in top-end European and Asian destinations. It is a market fuel led by the incre asing number of super March 11-24, 2011 rich in the countr y. According to the 2010 Hurun Wealth Report, a major survey of China’s rich, there are 875,000 multimillionaires and 55,000 billionaires in the country, about 6.1 per cent more millionaires and 7.8 per cent more billionaires than the previous year. The average age of those surveyed who were worth at least 100 million yuan ($15.2 million) was 39 and those with at least 1 billion yuan ($152.2 million) was 43, both a year younger than the figures of the previous year. The main sources of wealth for these people were real estate and manufacturing, Hurun reported. on the North Pole, as well as items themed on Africa and luxury cruises.” For most of the elite Chinese travel clients, who often make up a who’s who list of the country’s rich and famous, personalised services—and anonymity—are essential when they vacation. Tiffany Chen, a private agent for a number of Chinese celebrities and entertainers, says her clients are always on the lookout for high-end tour operators offering “unusual and unforgettable” travel experiences. TRAVELLING IN STYLE: A group of Chinese tourists paid 200,000 yuan (US$30,300) each for a weeklong luxury package that centred on driving Ferrari, Lamborghini and Maserati supercars along the Italian Riviera. Beijing-based Trip TM alone sells itself as a tailor-made tour operator for high-end customers. Its initial 100 regular clients, all “members” of the company, are said to be millionaires including IT giant Alibaba’s CEO Ma Yun and property giant Vantone’s chairman Feng Lun. Membership fees can be as high as 150,000 yuan ($22, 815). The company, set up in December 2007, has grown to more than 20,000 clients served by about 100 staff. Meng Ran, the editor of the newly launched Luxury Traveler Chinese quarterly, says the nation’s high-end travel market is growing significantly and its demands are spanning the world. Her publication introduces top travel, hotel and lifestyle choices for its “club members” and those who can afford these luxuries. “We’ve recently done articles “My clients usually travel in small networks that are made up of wealthy individuals they all know each other and money is never an issue,” Chen says. “But the number of Chinese holidaymakers who can afford luxury travel is increasing, so the demand for more unusual, exotic and over-the-top travel programmes among the wealthy is definitely growing as well.” Still, one of the offerings by Trip TM during the latest Spring Festival holidays was “simple” enough—organising a two-week shopping spree for a group of six VIPs in Paris, Milan, Rome and Florence. “Our clients usually want to spend quality time with their families during important holidays like Spring Festival, so these trips are more toned down at this time of the year,” Zou says. • 43 TRAVEL BITES By Jofelle P. Tesorio Asia News Network sometimes throw away cheap promotional flights. When you check the budget airlines, also compare their prices with regular airlines. forums to get updated tips. The next thing to do is check hotels. Do you want a low-key accommodation or something high-end? A quick check at sites like agoda.com or asiarooms.com would give you an idea of the price range and location of different hotels. Check hostelworld.com for a listing of hostels in different cities. Of late, hostels have reinvented themselves into flashy enclaves for travellers who want affordable and clean rooms but who don’t mind sharing the room with others. Hostels are actually manna from heaven to those who cannot stand (but have no choice) cheap, cockroach infested, grimy rooms. Now you have a destination, plane ticket and hotel. Another thing to worry about is what kind of activities you want to do. Do you want to be laid-back or you want some adrenalin rush? Do you want to party all night or you want some zipper just over the knees? For women, light skirts are ideal. Sarong is a must-have too because you can use it as blanket on the beach, wrap-around and towel. If you need to bring a towel, get the one that is light and easy to dry. For women, it’s now a must to pack one little black dress in case you want to hit the nightlife without looking too shabby in shorts. ➋ IDs other than passport. Bring your driver’s licence or a standard ID that indicates your age, blood type and emergency numbers. Most of the time you won’t need to carry your passport around so just have a copy in your bag and keep it safe somewhere. In lieu of the passport, carry your other IDs when you go out. ➌ Minimal bathroom amenities. Don’t bring the whole bathroom. Many groceries now have a travel section that sells everything in small sizes. The small bottles of shampoo, lotion and conditioner you get from water, sand and dust. ➏ Extra light bag. When your luggage is already filled, you can use this as hand carry. This also serves as your shopping bag when you buy souvenirs. Refuse plastic bag as much as possible. You can still be environment friendly while having a vacation. ➐ Padlocks and nylon safe locks. Buy the kind with number combination and not the ones with keys. There’s always a tendency to lose the keys and you will end up breaking the bag. Just always remember the combination. Safe nylon locks can be found in hardware shops. They are used to keep people from poking in the pockets of your bag. ➑ Fully charged batteries, chargers, additional memory cards. These days, the only place you can’t find a shop selling memory cards are in very remote areas. But they’re twice as expensive. So better stack some with you. Buy memory cards with a With a few dollars difference, you may want to opt for comfort, food and entertainment onboard. It is another thing if you want to hop from one city to another. That probably means taking different modes of transportation. Say, for example, you want to do the Mekong trail—Thailand, Viet Nam Cambodia and Laos. Your ideal first stop would be Bangkok then you continue your travel by train or bus to Laos, to Viet Nam and then to Cambodia. You may reenter Thailand using land borders from Laos or Cambodia. There are hundreds of sites on the Internet on how to do a combined trip, with expert tips from seasoned travellers. You can also join travel quiet moment practicing yoga or meditation? The choice is all yours. Most of the countries in Asia have diverse activities and interests that suit every Jane and Joe. On your final preparation, there’s an issue of things to bring. Summer is perfect to pack light. There is really no need to bring two pairs of jeans as you would be wearing a lot of shorts. You also have to leave some space in your luggage for souvenirs and gifts for loved ones back home. Here are some of the bare necessities that a wise traveller should carry around: ➊ Light clothing that easily dries up. Bring jeans that can also double as shorts. Remember the ones with hotels in your past travels are ideal to bring. Or buy the ones in sachet. You don’t have to check-in these because they are below 100ml. ➍ Medicines. A pack of emergency health kit is a traveller’s best friend. Having a stock of medicines for different unforeseen ailments such as a bout with diarrhoea during an 8-hour bus ride to Laos will really do wonders. Bring enough for headache, insect bites, motion sickness and dysmenorrhea (for women of course). ➎ Plastic bags or zip locks. You will need them for your bathroom amenities, wet clothes and other things you don’t want mixed with the rest of your stuff. They also protect your precious gadgets from maximum capacity of 2 gigabytes. Having three to four 2-gig memory cards distributes your pictures evenly and lessens the risk of your cards to get corrupted. ➒ Travel book with pictures. Bookstores have a wide variety of travel ideas. One of my favourites is a wordless travel book. All you have to do is point at the pictures to communicate. This is very handy in places where English is not widely spoken. ➓ Sense of adventure and fun. Travelling is all about trying new things, broadening horizons and having tonnes of fun so you go home rejuvenated and recharged. Photo by Jofelle P. Tesorio/A sia News Network Avoid Travel Hassles A few points to remember before hitting the road (or the sea) S ❖ Bangkok ummer is already beckoning in most parts of tropical Asia. The travel bug in you now starts to rummage through old travel books, the Internet and asking people around where and how to spend the much awaited summer vacation. You have saved half of your salary for the last six months and you are ready to take the plunge, try new experiences, learn new cultures and meet people. But wait... don’t go just yet. There are a few things a traveller must do before, during and after vacation. An ample preparation helps ease travelling to avoid some hassles. For some people, preparing for a much needed vacation, whether it is just within one’s country or outside, is a must. Others would take at least six months to prep themselves up. For a single woman, it’s like preparing for her wedding with details down to the last two-piece bikini in check. First things first. Decide which places you want to visit according to your budget and time-frame. You can list down the countries you haven’t been to or want to visit again. After writing them down you can narrow the list according to your preference. You don’t want to visit a place that 44 • really doesn’t catch your fancy or imagination. If you have really set your eyes on going to Bali or the exotic Sri Lanka, then by all means go. Don’t go to a place just because there is a cheap flight going there. After doing the list, check the Internet for flight information. If you are travelling within Asia, look for budget airlines that have direct flights and more connectivity. AirAsia (airasia.com), Cebu Pacific (cebupacificair.com), Tiger Airways (tigerairways.com) and Jet Airways (jetairways.com) are among budget airlines that fly regularly to major Asian destinations. AirAsia is based in Kuala Lumpur and have subsidiaries in Thailand and Indonesia. Cebu Pacific is Philippine-based while Tiger Airways is based in Singapore and Jet Airways in India. Knowing the hubs of these airlines will give you an idea where you can start or end your journey. Major airlines like Thai Airways (thaiair.com), Philippine Airlines (philippineairlines.com), Malaysia Airlines (malaysiaairlines.com) and Singapore Airlines (singaporeair.com) March 11-24, 2011 March 11-24, 2011 [email protected] • 45 TRAVEL By Lee Woo-young and Moon Ye-bin The Korea Herald Click! Online gateways to Korea I ❖ Seoul f you want to do a bit of research before taking a trip to South Korea, don’t settle for the standard Google search or hastily read travel books. Here are 21 cyber destinations covering Korean travel, history, society and language, targeting both tourists and expats. Non-Korean visitors—and possibly many Koreans, too—could find these sites surprisingly addictive as they discover online gateways to intriguing aspects of Korea. ∫ Culture/Travel T he official website for Korean tourism, Visit Korea (visitkorea. or.kr) proudly introduces essential information on culture, travel, festivals and even recipes. The site is a great source for global citizens as the service is available in 11 languages. Searching for something out of the ordinary? Adventure Korea (adven46 • turekorea.com) offers adrenaline junkies a range of short trips around the country. There are a variety of thrilling activities to choose from on the tour site. These include trips to Seoraksan hot springs, Hangang booze cruises, templestays and DMZ trips. Whether it is culture, camping, festivals or hiking, the site offers something for everyone. Virtual Tourist (www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Asia/South_Korea) is a practical site offering reviews and comments posted by travellers themselves about destinations they have visited. It is a great gateway for ∫ Food K S travel enthusiasts wanting to read honest reviews and tips from people who have been there themselves. The site offers a chance to connect with over a million travellers around the world to ask questions and share experiences. For those who want to experience Korean rural life, a Korean farm stay offers an unusual but memorable experience. The Korea WWOOF (koreawwoof.com) arranges farm stays for people who want to embrace the countryside and organic farming. Farm stay guests help with daily chores on the farm such as harvesting, preparing soil for planting, weeding, and seeding in exchange for food and lodging. One can also get to know rural life and culture while mingling with local people. Restaurants, bars, entertainment, travel, shopping and fashion—you name it, this site has it. Seoulstyle. com (seoulstyle.com) is an offbeat of Korean food. The Korean tour agency’s official food site features articles on concepts of Korean cuisine, food columns, information on restaurants and recipes in a well organised format with beautiful pictures of dishes and their ingredients. Maangchi.com invites visitors to try cooking Korean food themselves in a quick and easy way, with video recipes. The recipes don’t require lengthy preparations and the author’s chirpy tone and witty captions in videos never bore. Kimchi-making is the most popular recipe, viewed over 400,000 times, prompting the site’s author to release a Kimchi app for the iPad in May 2010. Do you want to know how to make top secret Korean restaurant recipes? Zenkimchi.com covers food from recipes to restaurant reviews. This is a great website for food enthusiasts wishing to find the finest restaurants in Korea, with articles and reviews including coverage of music videos, TV dramas, celebrity gossips and photos. The site boasts the largest fan base through fan clubs and forums on the website, which enable ardent K-pop fans to mingle online and share news about their idols. When it comes to K-pop, allkpop. com is the fastest news breaker. Latest celebrity gossips and news draw over 3 million monthly readers worldwide and takes Hallyu to audiences beyond Asia. Want the latest celebrity gossip? Then kokokoreano.com is the place. An entertaining blog for Hallyu fans with the latest celebrity news, photos and fashion reviews, the site also features photo shoots from Korean magazines, designer fashion shows and celebrities’ street style and performance outfits. Korean Drama Guide (koreandrama-guide.com) is an encyclopedia for Korean drama fans. This impressive site has a massive database on Korean dramas, synopsis and site for expats in Seoul or for travellers looking for something missing from normal travel guides. Some of the places or activities introduced on the site may not be too Korean. orea Taste (koreataste.org) takes visitors on a comprehensive tour March 11-24, 2011 international cuisine from Saudi Arabia, Italy, India and France. Ongofood.com is a website promoting Korean food and culture to travellers from all over the world. Worth a visit for those interested in attending a “Korean night dining tour” or “Korean cooking class”. Otherwise, take a peek at Seouleats. com, a popular food blog run by the chief of marketing and tours for the O’ngo Food Communications. ∫ Hallyu oompi.com is a home ground for Hallyu fans worldwide with 1.4 million visitors daily, most of them non-Koreans. It is the best organised K-pop website covering latest albums, March 11-24, 2011 information on TV stars. Few websites can beat the Korean Drama Guide index. ∫ Expat blogs V ideos say more than words. Eatyourkimchi.com is run by a Canadian couple teaching English in Korea, recording glimpses of everyday life here. Martina and Simon fascinate with entertaining and useful videos on Korean culture, K-pop, teaching and ESL lesson materials, and everyday life. The Marmot’s Hole (rjkoehler.com) is serious in tone compared to other expat blogs, but the posts dealing with Korean history, politics, North Korea, and US troop presence in Korea draw a lot of readers. Run by 14-year-resident in Korea, Robert Koehler, the blog offers some interesting insights on Korea. Chrisinsouthkorea.com offers extensive features on travel and life as an expat in Korea. Chris frequently updates with event reviews, adventurous travel articles and helpful tips for newcomers. ∫ History, Society and Language T he official international broadcasting station of South Korea KBS World Radio (world.kbs.co.kr) won’t disappoint. The station broadcasts news and information in eleven languages: Korean, English, Chinese, Japanese, Indonesia, Arabic, Vietnamese, Russian, German, French and Spanish. Also, the site has great information on the locations, people, climate, culture and history of Korea. In addition, the site features several recipes for popular Korean dishes, and short language study options are available. Koreanhistory.info is an excellent site on Korean history. Starting from Paleolithic period (B.C. 5,000-8,000), the site informs on each period of Korea’s history. In addition, the website provides Korean history videos, MP3 audio and photos of old Korea. The site has extensive resources including timelines and information on other major historical events in Korea. Its only drawback is the slightly drab and simple design. Koreana (www.koreana.or.kr), a quarterly journal on Korean art and culture, helps readers better understand Korea. Sophisticated articles and images depict Korea’s arts, environment, literature, lifestyle and other themes. By clicking the current edition’s e-book, you can flip through the journal and see fascinating and attention-grabbing pictures. Keen to learn Korean? Sogang University Korean Programme (korean.sogang.ac.kr) provides extensive study materials for free on its website. By following the courses from introduction to novice and intermediate levels, non-Koreans can develop their Korean language skills. The module on pronunciation of the alphabet is available in audio files and examples of how to hand-write each character are also available. An American man passes on his knowledge on Korean study at Learn Korean Language (learnkoreanlanguage.com). This useful site is run by Russell Holloway who calls himself a “hardcore fan” of the Korean language since he first learned it after meeting the love of his life, who is half-Korean. • 47 N E PA L By Liu Yi-ling China Daily ABODE OF THE GODS Gazing at the majestic peaks of the Annapurna mountain range in Nepal is nothing short of magical N ❖ Kathmandu othing is as satisfying as watching dawn break over Annapurna. All is still and silent, except for the soft crunch of snow under thick-soled boots, as the mountains poke through the mist, bathed in the tawny glow of the Nepali sun. In 2010, 79,000 trekkers, mostly from Southeast Asia, flocked to the vast Annapurna Sanctuary, hoping to catch a glimpse of the vast amphitheatre of Himalayan peaks. We were one such group. Getting there, however, was no easy feat, especially for a large group like ours. Of the three routes available, we chose the 12-day Annapurna Sanctuar y trek, through forests of oak, rhododendron and Gurung villages— the perfect route for 23 rowdy high school students who craved adventure yet were unwilling to relinquish the luxury of hot showers for more than two weeks. And we chose the perfect time, October, late enough to escape the monsoon, but early enough to avoid the risk of being crushed by winter avalanches. Mount Macchapachure, the double peaked ‘fishtail’ peak. 48 • We began our journey well-fed, rested and full of anticipation, making our way from the coastal tourist city of Pokhara in western Nepal to the start of our trek in one of the country’s many “hippie buses”—complete with vinyl seats and intricate Buddhist graffiti adorning its walls. Sticking our heads out of the window, we watched throngs of tourists threading in and out of dusty streets, and enjoyed the scent of hot local breads, known as chapatti, wafting from the market stalls, revelling in the cacophony of the civilised world before embarking on our trek. The first days of hiking, from Dhampus to Landrung, was surprisingly relaxed. I was expecting rugged, rocky landscapes and vigorous uphill climbs. Instead, there were f lat, stone paths, chestnut forests, locals tending to their crops and rolling hills that looked like cake batter falling into a tin tray. Protected within the Annapurna Conservation Area, it felt like strolling through a Shangri-La of lush green and wispy cirrus clouds. As we entered the gateway to the Annapurna Sanctuary, the light green hues darkened and a jagged path dotted with suspension bridges hanging precariously between two cliffs appeared. The oppressive heat and harsh incline of the slope instantly wiped off our eager grins and killed all conversation. While I trudged on in my shiny Columbia hiking boots, the porters, ranging in age from 15 to 50, bounded up cracked stone steps with 10kg packs strapped on their backs and flimsy plastic sandals on their feet. As we stepped aside to let them pass (giving way to the porters being the golden rule of Annapurna courtesy), I could only muster a shame-faced nod of admiration and disbelief. Tourist hikers were easily distinguishable by their elaborate fanny packs, hik ing poles, waterproof pants and ankle-high Gortex shoes. R e g a r d l e s s o f n a t i o n a l i t y, w e greeted fellow hikers with a nod and a breathless namaste, or hello, proudly displaying the full extent of our Nepali vocabulary. Frequently, especially at the beginning of the trek, groups of elderly women, approached us with bags of handmade goods. Even the most fru- MAJESTIC: Tourists enjoy the sight of the 8,091m Mount Annapurna in western Nepal. gal among us could not but help succumb to their persuasive marketing—“300 rupees (US$4), you buy? Very, very nice, wear this bracelet, no more bad luck”. Other locals worked at the many lodges dotting the way with names such as ‘Hungry Eye’ and ‘Sherpo Lodge’, where we stocked up on glass bottles of coke, melted Twix bars and Nepali Tea. At mealtimes, we huddled around a rectangular table, chatting, playing cards, and rewinding after a hard day’s work. The food was mostly Nepali fare, dahl (lentils), rice, curry, and chapatti, accompanied by a variety of American Diner-type dishes, such as potatoes, buttered rolls and a bizarre dessert—the Snickers roll (baked chocolate bars). Whatever the delicacy served, we shoveled it into our mouths with enthusiasm. The Himalayas have a way of curing picky eaters. Days typically started at 6am and ended at 8:30pm, when the sky turned pitch black. Guided by the soft glow of our headlamps, we would then shuffle to our rooms, and collapse on the beds and savour the delicious warmth of our sleeping bags. Solar-powered hot showers in tin huts, were a luxury. However, if we did manage to scrape a hot shower and enjoyed more than five minutes of steaming bliss, we would suffer, inevitably, from the vicious glares of fellow hikers. Each day of the trek, the altitude rose, forcing us to down a white Diamox pill (to combat altitude sickness) with our breakfast. We also began to get clearer views of the snow-capped, 7,000-metre high Mount Macchapachure, dubbed ‘Fishtail’ after its pointed double summit. Considered sacred to the Hindu god Shiva, it’s off limits to hikers. It rained on our final day toward the foot of Mount Macchapachure, an incessant, frustrating drizzle that clung to our ponchos and soaked our packs. We watched our feet intently, cautious not to step on ubiquitous piles of cow dung, wondering how on earth a cow had managed to find its way up all those jagged stone steps that had taken us hours to climb. With the entire landscape encased in a thick fog, all we could do was walk on blindly, knowing that the majestic fishtail loomed somewhere in the distance. The climax of our trek, however, was walking to Annapurna Base Camp, waking up at 3:30am, clad in full gear—thermals, f leeces, goose-downs, outer ski-layers—and making our way single file through the darkness. We arrived just in time to see Annapurna wake up. T he fog lifted and the peaks, from Annapurna I to Hintchuli, became visible in the sunlight. For a moment, we felt miniscule, insignificant, dwarfed by these majestic peaks. Annapurna I, that soars 8,091m into the sky, is the 10th highest summit in the world. The mountains, so rugged, so white and pristine, and so untouched by man, seemed to be daring us to take them on. We had reached the end of our trip and I thought about the others, Frenchman Maurice Herzog in the 1950s, alpinist Ian Clough in the ‘70s, for whom reaching the base camp was only the beginning. Would I come back and try to join the list of successful mountaineers? The prospect, I must say, while I stood at the foothills, gazing upwards at the peaks, was tempting. But, alas, that is for another time. After a dozen more camera flashes and several mugs of hot chocolate, we began our return trek—a big relief. We were sunburned, hungry, covered in grime and sweat and had blisters the size and shape of beetles in between our toes—and yet we were full of euphoria. I was elated and feeling smug—we h a d t re k ke d ove r 9 4 . 4 5 k m a n d climbed 10,173m. All I needed was a hot, steaming shower. Tourists sit outside Hotel Hungry Eye, one of the many lodges scattered along the Annapurna Sanctuary trekking route. March 11-24, 2011 March 11-24, 2011 • 49 Photos by Laszlo Varro for C hina Daily EXPLORE DATEBOOK B EI JI N G Beijing International Kite Festival Brightly coloured kites dot the sky above Chaoyang Park during the festival. With decorative kites shaped like dragons and acrobatic ones doing tricks, this event is a great celebration of a 100-year-old Chinese tradition. When: March (annual) Where: Chaoyang Park Info: www.bjkite-sport.com (Chinese) JAI PU R , RA JASTHA N Elephant Festival H O N G KO N G The 35th HK International Film Festival Held each year in Jaipur, the festival is a celebration of these large mammals. Royal mounts from time immemorial and a symbol of strength and wealth, the flawlessly groomed beasts take part in a pageant around Chaugan Stadium. Costumed, decorated and glittering in gold, visitors come across numerous elegant elephants during this very noisy day. The event also proves that they can move surprisingly gracefully in procession, run races and even play polo. When: March 19 (annual) Where: Chaugan Stadium S I NGA PO RE Courtesy of Tatzu Nishi Singapore Biennale 2011 Since its inauguration in 2006, the Singapore Biennale has enhanced the country’s reputation as a leading international centre for artistic dialogue and exchange. Featuring 63 artists from 30 countries, the biennale titled ‘Open House’, invites you to experience contemporary art from around the world—from large-scale installations to intimate encounters—that will shed light on how connections and exchanges among individuals, groups, cities and nations are created. The exhibitions are presented across four venues, each with their own particular character drawing upon typical Singaporean spaces: the Housing Development Board flats (Singapore Art Museum and SAM at 8Q), shopping centres and night markets (National Museum of Singapore), international air, sea ports (Old Kallang Airport) and a major project amplifying individual experience in the city (Marina Bay). One of the most talked about works of the Singapore Biennale 2011 is the Merlion Hotel. The much revered national icon is currently hoarded up as it undergoes restoration work and Japanese artist Tatzu Nishi saw an opportunity to convert the site into a hotel room. The installation gives guests a chance to spend a night with the half-lion half-fish statue. When: March 13-15, 10am-7pm daily Where: Singapore Art Museum, National Museum of Singapore, 8Q, Singapore Art Museum, Old Kallang Airport Info: www.singaporebiennale.org 50 • From international awardwinning movies to avant-garde indies, this annual film festival screens hundreds of titles from around the world making it a must for film buffs. The two opening films for this year are Don’t Go Breaking My Heart, the new work by the Hong Kong film industry’s renowned duo of Johnnie To and Wai Ka-fai; and Quattro Hong Kong 2, jointly directed by four award-winning filmmakers. Both films will premiere at a star-studded opening gala on March 20. When: March 20-April 5 Tickets: URBTIX +852-2734-9009 Info: www.hkiff.org.hk TO KYO International AnimÉ Fair Tokyo, the animé capital of the world, hosts an international fair dedicated to those much-loved Japanese cartoons. Trade stalls, exhibitions, screenings and the Tokyo Animé Awards take over the capital’s Big Sight centre for the four-day event. The first two days are for trade only, when designers, animators and amateurs hob-nob with industry moguls. The doors open to the public on March 26-27. When: March 24-27 Where: Tokyo Big Sight Info: www.tokyoanime.jp/en/ March 11-24, 2011 HGRS_AsiaNewsAdvtv2_080807.qxp:Layout Teaser 197x121 7:Layout 1 28.6.2010 9:14 1Uhr8/31/07 Seite 19:29 AM Teaser 197x121 4.6.09:Layout 1 4.6.2009 11:22 Uhr Page 1 Seite 1 Global competition Building Asia together.2009: Rewarding Two Holcim Awards for Asia construction in Asia Whether you’re building or investing in factories, homes, bridges, schoolhouses or shopping malls we’re the perfect partner make for sustainable construction The Holcim Awards to competition and visions attracted your project happen. 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