FEATURE STORIES Korean Buddhist Bells

Volume 2, Number 4
© Ha Ji-gwon
FEATURE STORIES
Korean Buddhist Bells
04 A Gentle, Beautiful Sound that
Resonates out into the Universe
12 The Bell Sound,
Waves that Reverberate in the Mind
CULTURAL SCENES OF KOREA
The Bronze Bell of Sangwon-sa Temple
(Korean National Treasure No. 36)
Published by Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism
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Seoul, 110-170, South Korea
Tel: +82-2-2031-2000
E-mail: [email protected]
Planning & Design by Bulkwang Publishing
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Jongno-gu, Seoul, 110-140, South Korea
Tel:+82-2-420-3200
Translated by Golden Lotus Translation and
Interpretation Center
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Copyright © 2013 Cultural Corps of Korean Buddhism.
All rights reserved.
Registration No. 010110-08-2013-187
02 Photo Essay
All Snowflakes Fall Where They Belong
16 Maedeup, the Boundless Potential
of Korean Artisans’ Beautiful Handiwork
42 Travelling the Baekdu-daegan,
Encountering Life
Heritage of Korea
Journeys
TEMPLESTAY AND BEYOND
22 Seonun-sa, Where Even the Mountain
Winds Take a Break...
30 Wholesome and Tasty Traditional Korean Food
Gyeongdan and Yakgwa
36 My Templestay at Naeso-sa Temple:
A Connection to the Past
48 Dharma Instruments Used at Buddhist Ceremonies
Templestay
Temple Food
Temple Diary
Templestay Q&A
2
3
Photo Essay
All
Snowflakes
Fall Where
They Belong
At first glance, snowflakes seem to fall randomly
as they please, but each and every one is said to
fall into its own place. The lives of practitioners,
who cast off worldly attachments and embrace
their karmic ties, are no different from
snowflakes; they all wind up where they belong.
—
Text and photography by Yu Dong-yeong
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Feature Stories 1
A Gentle,
Beautiful Sound
that Resonates out
into the Universe
Beomjong, as Buddhist bells are called in Korean, are one of the four Buddhist
instruments, along with the Dharma drum, the cloud-shaped gong, and the
wooden fish. In the field of acoustics, “Korean Bell” is an officially recognized
term. The fact that this term is officially approved is a testament to its
originality. It also reflects the fact that these bells have their own unique style
in addition to the superb beauty of their sound, which is of course the most
crucial characteristic of a Buddhist bell.
—
Article by Lee Ji-nu | Photos by Ha Ji-gwon
6
The Origin of
Buddhist Bells
and Korean Bells
7
The origin of Beomjong is thought to be China, though this is
only speculation. The “yongzhong” style of bell, which had been
developed in China, disappeared by the late Zhou Dynasty,
at the end of the Warring States Period, along with many other
ritual instruments, but reappeared around the 8th century in
Korea in the form of Beomjong.
One of the most famous bells of Korea is the Bronze Bell
of Sangwon-sa Temple, Korean National Treasure No. 36. On
top of the bell are carved inscriptions telling us the bell was
cast in the thirteenth year of Kaiyuan, that is, the 24th year of
King Seongdeok’s reign in Unified Silla (725 CE). This is the
oldest existing Korean bell, clearly demonstrating the unique
beauty of Korean bells. Around the shoulder band on the upper
part of the bell body, there were originally 36 lotus bud-shaped
protuberances (“nipples”), nine on each of the four panels as
on the Chinese yongzhong. However, one has been broken off,
leaving 35.
This bell has the typical Korean bell’s barrel-shape.
The upper part of the bell’s body is somewhat narrow but widens
as it moves downward, reaching its widest circumference twothirds of the way down. It then narrows again, but only slightly,
though still wider than the top. The top part of the bell body is
covered by a “shoulder band,” decorated with arabesque pattern
reliefs. The lower band at the rim is also decorated with reliefs
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3
of heavenly deities playing musical instruments. In between
top
(cheonpan)
shoulder band
(sangdae)
those two bands, the bell body has four panels each having nine
“nipples” resembling lotus buds. The middle of the bell body is
decorated on opposite sides by serene heavenly maidens playing
musical instruments and presenting offerings to the Buddha.
The spot to be struck by an external suspended wooden clapper
(“dangmok”) is the striking point (“dangjwa”) in a lotus flower
The oldest extant Korean
Bell, the Bronze Bell
of Sangwon-sa Temple
(Korean National Treasure
No. 36)
pattern. There are two of them on opposing sides of the bell.
sound tube
(yongtong)
bell hook
(yongnyu)
1.The lotus bud-shaped protuberances
(“nipples”) on the Bronze Bell of
Sangwon-sa Temple. Of the original
36 nipples, one has been broken off,
leaving 35.
2.On top of the Bronze Bell of
Sangwon-sa are the bell hook in a
dragon shape called the “yongnyu”
and the sound tube called “yongtong.”
3.An explanatory diagram of the
Bronze Bell of Sangwon-sa
nipples
(yudu)
nipple panel
(yugwak)
heavenly
maidens
(bicheon)
striking point
(dangjwa)
lower band
(hadae)
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9
An Eighth
Century Bell,
Representative of
Korean Bells
Another famous Korean Bell is the Sacred Bell of King
Seongdeok the Great, also referred to as the Bell of Bongdeoksa Temple, which was cast in 771 CE, the seventh year of King
Hyegong’s reign. Measuring 3.33 meters high, it is the largest
Korean Bell created in the Silla era. It is about twice as tall as
the Bronze Bell of Sangwon-sa Temple (167cm), yet it is no
less beautiful. This bell has similarities to other Korean bells,
however, its rim is extended downward with eight rhombic
corners, giving it a unique style. A blossoming lotus flower
design, similar to that of the dangjwa, is carved on each corner
for a total of eight. In addition, on the body are inscribed images
of flying heavenly maidens offering incense.
Both of the above-mentioned bells were created in the
8 century and are considered the best and the most beautiful of
th
Korean Bells. Their common characteristics can be summarized
briefly. The upper part of the barrel-shaped bell body is bordered
with a shoulder band. Four rectangular panels, each having
nine protruding lotus buds (“nipples”) are located beneath the
shoulder band. The bottom rim is bordered with a “rim band.”
The primary designs on both the shoulder and rim bands are dots
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1
3
in a semi-circular pattern. In the middle part of the bell (“bell’s
belly”) are two heavenly maidens on opposite sides of the bell.
Located between the two maidens are the two dangjwa,
the striking points, one on each side. In addition, on top of the
bell is the yongnyu (bell hook in a dragon shape). It depicts a
dragon lifting the bell in its mouth, and the dragon’s spine is
arched to form a hook to hang the bell.
1. The heavenly maidens (bicheon) on the
Sacred Bell of King Seongdeok the Great
(Korean National Treasure No. 29)
2. The heavenly maidens (bicheon) on the
Bronze Bell of Sangwon-sa Temple
(Korean National Treasure No. 36)
3. The heavenly maidens (bicheon) on
the Beomjong of Yongju-sa Temple,
Hwaseong, Gyeonggi-do
(Korean National Treasure No. 120)
The largest extant Korean
Bell, the Sacred Bell of King
Seongdeok the Great (Korean
National Treasure No. 29),
also referred to as the Bell of
Bongdeok-sa Temple
10
Yongtong (Sound Tube)
and Myeongdong
(Resonance Chamber)
11
Peculiar to Korean bells, not found on Chinese or Japanese
bells, is a unique feature called the “yongtong” or “sound tube,”
an oblong pipe rising at the back of the yongnyu. With joints like
bamboo, it is hollow like a flute. Running from inside the bell to
the outside, this sound transmission device allows sound waves to
travel through it. Unlike Western bells that are struck from inside
and where the sound disperses quickly once out of the bell, Korean
bells are struck from outside and the sound reverberates inside the
bell. As of yet, the effect the yongtong has on a bell’s sound hasn’t
yet been scientifically verified. It is worth noting however that some
experiments indicate that when the bell is struck and the inside of
the bell is filled with sound, “impure sound” is vented out through
the sound tube (yongtong), producing a more refined sound.
A good bell is beautiful to look at, but even more importantly,
it must have a good sound. What is a good sound? A clear sound.
A clear sound means a pure sound, devoid of unharmonious noises.
A good sound should also have a long and sonorous reverberation.
When these bells were cast, some sophisticated metallurgical
techniques must have been available. Those things are not easily
understood by ordinary people. However, there is a feature called
a “myeongdong” or “resonance chamber,” that is more easily
noticeable. This can be either a pit beneath a bell or an earthen jar
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buried in the ground beneath the bell. These allow the sound to
reverberate longer.
Beomjong is one of the “Four Buddhist Instruments,”
the others being: the Dharma Drum, the Cloud-shaped Gong, and
the Wooden Fish. Each of them makes a unique sound for each
of the four realms of living creatures. The Dharma Drum is for
creatures that live on land. The Wooden Fish is for creatures living
The bronze bell at Naeso-sa
Temple, located in Jinseo-myeon,
Buan-gun, Jeollabuk-do Province,
is designated Korean Treasure
No. 277. As one of the more
outstanding bronze bells of the
Goryeo era, it embodies well the
style of Korean bells.
in the water. The Cloud-shaped Gong is for creatures of the air,
and lastly, the Beomjong is for all sentient beings residing in the
universe. Therefore, all the four instruments should sound beautiful,
but the sound of the Beomjong must be majestic and travel far and
wide so that it can embrace the whole world. That’s because the
sound of the Beomjong symbolizes the teachings of the Buddha.
1. The sound of a Korean Beomjong
is especially beautiful because the
ground underneath the bell is dug out,
acting as a resonance chamber. This
makes the sound reverberate longer.
2. Bell Pavilion where the four Buddhist
instruments are kept
3. Sounding the bell
Feature Stories 2
12
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Why is the Sacred Bell of King Seongdeok
Called the Emille Bell?
—
The Bell Sound,
Waves that
Reverberate in
the Mind
—
Article by Kim Yi-Jeong, Novelist
Illustrations by Yu Hwan-yeong
How cruel can the human imagination be at times?
Seorabeol. The lady of the house with a baby girl
All over the world, myths, legends, and even
in her arms murmured as she welcomed the monk,
children’s fairy tales abound with brutal, harrowing
“We are poor people and have nothing to donate.
stories. Whenever we hear such stories, it seems
And this infant is all that we have. I wonder if you
that man’s imagination is perhaps an expression of
will take her instead?”
the cruelty and hidden evil that cannot possibly be
actualized in reality. About the Sacred Bell of King
went to other houses, received donations and
Seongdeok the Great, the German archaeologist
returned to the temple. Afterwards, a stern voice
Dr. Kenmel said, “If we had just one bell of such
spoke to him in a dream, “Bring that child you saw
excellence in Germany, a decent museum would
a few days ago! That child is needed for the bell to
be built for that one bell alone.” It truly possesses
ring.” It was a commanding, awe-inspiring voice
superb artistry and originality, but also has a sad
that echoed in his ears long after it startled him
legend attached to it.
awake. Unable to bear it any more, the monk went
to see Iljeon and told him about his dream. Iljeon
The Silla King Gyeongdeok commissioned
Not heeding the poor woman’s plea, the monk
the largest and most beautiful bell to be cast in
urged the monk to take him to that house, saying
order to honor his late father’s, King Seongdeok,
this was his last chance. Iljeon was reminded of the
distinguished achievements and to pray for the
Buddhist tradition of offering oneself in sacrifice
repose of his soul. The best artisan in the kingdom,
by self-immolation. The two men visited the house
Iljeon, was appointed and exerted himself to the
again and suggested the mother offer the child to
utmost, but even with all his skill and sincerity,
Buddha. She wept much, lamenting how one could
to cast such a huge bell wasn’t an easy job. As one
cast the young girl into the seething molten metal,
failure followed another, King Gyeongdeok died,
but she finally yielded the child.
and his son King Hyegong succeeded the throne.
molten metal, and eventually the bell was
At long last, the bell was completed.
The infant child was cast into the red-hot
King Hyegong and the queen mother, Mme.
completed. Again the king and the people of Silla
Manwol, along with many others, gathered at
crowded around to listen to the bell. The abbot
Bongdeok-sa Temple. The abbot of the temple
of Bongdeok-sa struck the bell for the first time.
struck the bell, but oddly, it didn’t ring. Infuriated,
“Doo-o-ong!” The long-awaited sound spread far
the king ordered another bell to be cast.
and wide. The deeply resonating sound seemed to
The monks of Bongdeok-sa made the rounds to
reach not only to Seorabeol but to the very bottom
procure donations for the needed materials. One
of the ocean. It seemed as if it would reach to
day, a monk visited a thatch-roofed house in
the end of the other world. However, the people
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were surprised to hear a child’s mournful cry for
its mother in the exceptionally long, lingering
reverberations of the bell. It was crying, “Emille...
emille... emille… (lit. “Because of mommy”).”
There was no doubt that it was the sad and pristine
voice of the infant cast into the molten metal. By
and by, people began to call the Sacred Bell of
King Seongdeok the Great the Emille Bell.
Several years ago, chemical tests were done
on the Emille Bell. The purpose was to look for
traces of phosphorous, an element that might
indicate human remains, but none was detected.
Some argue that the legend of the Emille Bell is
an analogy for King Hyegong, who ascended the
throne at the tender age of eight when his father,
The Chiak-san Mountain Pheasant
King Gyeongdeok, died unexpectedly. His mother,
Who Repaid a Debt
Mme. Manwol, controlled him from behind the
—
throne for years, and he died an unnatural death
The original name of Mt. Chiak-san near Wonju,
chicks were okay, and then resumed his journey.
moment, not long after the she-serpent had
in his early 20s. So they say that the haunting sound
Gangwon-do Province was Mt. Jeogak-san
spoken, the temple bell rang. “Doong... doong...
of the Emille Bell is the young King Hyegong’s
(“Red-rock Mountain”), due to the red leaves in
black, and the young man hurried his steps toward
doong...” The sound of the bell spread throughout
mournful cry.
autumn. However, at some point, Mt. Jeogak-san
a light far off in the distance. Almost running,
the valley. When the bell stopped, the serpent
began to be called Mt. Chiak-san (“Pheasant-rock
he approached it to find a tile-roofed house.
shuddered as if vexed, then released him and
from mouth to mouth over a long period of time,
Mountain”) because of the following legend.
A beautiful lady welcomed him into the house,
slithered away.
apt to be embellished and transformed, so future
served him hospitably and provided him a bed.
generations can only speculate on how much of
way to Seoul to take the national military service
He snuggled into a deep, sound sleep, only to
temple to see the bell. Under the bell tower were
it is true. Perhaps someone simply made up this
examination. He walked over a high pass and
be awakened by a stifling pressure on his chest.
three dead pheasants, their skulls crushed. The
story because the lingering sound of the bell was
entered a vale when he heard the urgent shriek
Surprisingly, he found a big serpent coiled tightly
mother pheasant and her friends had returned his
too beautiful and sad. Or it could also mean that
of a bird sounding as though it was on the verge
around him. The serpent snapped at him.
favor by sacrificing their own lives. Abandoning
the earnest effort and devotion to create the bell
of death. Looking around, he saw a huge boa
“That snake you killed today was my dear
the military service examination, the young man
was worth a human life. Regardless, one thing is
snake staring at a pheasant’s nest and ready to
husband. I lured you here to avenge my husband,
buried the three pheasants in a sunny spot and
certain and that is that the Emille Bell produces an
attack. Several hatchlings nestled in it, and the
so you won’t ever be able to escape. There’s only
stayed at the temple to pray for the welfare of their
inimitable, deep and mysterious sound of its own,
mother pheasant was shrieking at the sight of the
one condition. I will set you free if the bell at the
souls. That temple is Sangwon-sa. Thereafter,
a sound that brings peace of mind, as peaceful as
boa. Without a moment’s hesitation, the young
mountain temple rings three times.”
Mt. Jeogak-san began to be called Mt. Chiak-san
the ocean’s depths; an unforgettable sound that
man took an arrow from his quiver and killed the
(“Chi” means pheasant,“ak” means rock, and “san”
lingers long and resonant in the mind.
snake. The young man checked to see that the
ring the bell in this pitch-dark night? At that
The truth is elusive. A legend is handed down
Once upon a time, a young man was on his
The sun set, soon darkening the forest pitch-
The young man trembled in fear. Who will
The next day, the young man went to the
means mountain).
Heritage of Korea
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Maedeup,
the Boundless
Potential of Korean
Artisans’ Beautiful
Handiwork
Maedeup, Korean decorative knotwork, is
also called “the language of the hands” or
“the flower of the heart,” referring to the
craft’s potential to create an infinite number
of combinations of shapes and motifs through
colorful thread and elaborate knots. This refined
Korean knotwork though, does not need special
tools; with strings and a gimlet, artisans weave
a colorful range of decorative pieces such as
norigae (Korean traditional ornaments worn by
women), belts, jumeoni (pouches), seonchu (fan
pendants) and yuso (flag ornaments). According
to the techniques used, knotwork can delineate
and generate a variety of creative patterns.
String’s quality, thickness and color, along with
additional decorative items, can be combined to
form a range of styles and designs.
—
Article by Yang Ji-suk | Photos by Nam Yun-jung
Interview
Preserving the spirit
of traditional Korean
knotwork:
Shim Young-mi of the
Donglim Knot Museum
A walk down winding Bukchon Alley, lined with well-preserved tile-roofed
houses of the Joseon period, opens up a unique scene -- a mixture of Seoul’s past
and present in the heart of the bustling metropolitan city. This area, heavily tinged
with tradition, is also a treasure trove of modern museums and galleries.
A case in point is the Donglim Knot Museum, whose founder and director is
maedeup master Shim Young-mi. The museum, opened in April 2004 with
the help of the Seoul city government, displays all kinds of Korean knotwork.
Decorative knots, such as norigae, belts, jumeoni, seonchu, yuso, as well as
knotwork materials, including strings, threads and accessories, lure curious
visitors. Of her career Shim says:
“I started learning maedeup 49 years ago at the age of 19,” she said.
“I wouldn’t be able to do this if I didn’t like maedeup. My father-in-law learned
knotting skills from his aunt, who was working in the royal court, and he taught
me the art of Korean knotwork. At first, he was just a neighbor, and I frequented
his house to learn Korean knotting. I eventually married his third son and
came to take over the family business.”
From childhood, Shim had a talent for handicrafts. No wonder then that
she was drawn to the art of knotwork, a field where she later found she could
create anything she could imagine with thread and a gimlet.
The process of making maedeup starts with dying white silk threads.
Next, seasoned knotwork artisans untangle and plait the threads on a spinning
wheel many times before steaming them to produce the final maedeup threads.
The threads, which have already gone through a complex process, are then
delicately woven and tightened to be reborn as a beautiful norigae accessory for
women, or a seonchu pendant that accentuates the classic beauty of a fan. Shim is
now busy working on various recreational and restoration projects for museums
that involve: royal seals, traditional decorative bands and the yuso attached to the
Royal Portrait of King Taejo. In cases where there are no extant maedeup works,
Shim recreates traditional maedeup pieces herself, taking references from books,
and takes the final artwork to museums for public exhibition.
“I want to go beyond the restoration of maedeup to bring it to the general public.
That’s why I’m extending its applications to everyday accessories like necklaces,
brooches, bracelets, head bands and cell phone lanyards so that people can
rediscover the value of maedeup,” she said.
While producing intricate knotwork, Shim also provides training courses
for both beginners and professionals as part of her effort to spread the craft
further. The Donglim Knot Museum also offers one-day workshop programs in
which visitors can learn and make maedeup of dragonflies and necklaces after
a 30 minute to 1 hour class. (Tel. +82-2-3673-2778)
Norigae
—
—
Yuso, a type of maedeup, is a sequence of
Norigae was one of the traditional women’s
knots ending in a tassel. Usually used as
accessories during the Joseon period. Hung
indoor decorations, yuso are designed to
from women’s coat strings and hanbok skirts,
be fastened to such household items as bal
norigae comes in various shapes and colors.
(window blinds), bangjang (curtains), clothes
The decorative pendant also has functional and
racks, scrolls, framed pictures, writing-brush
seasonal variations. It has three basic colors:
racks and letter boxes in a way that adds
red, yellow and indigo blue. Other colors such as
beauty and elegance to a room’s otherwise
pink, light green, violet, purple and aquamarine
monotonous decor.
are often added to the basic color palette.
The photo is of the yuso attached to the 1872
In general, three pendants with tassels are tied
Royal Portrait of King Taejo (Korean National
Treasure No. 317), born Yi Seong-gye.
It is an outstanding piece of the period, with its
chords woven from 24 threads culminating in
tassels. The versatile nature of such decorative
tassels hints at prestige when compared with
ordinary pieces. Yi Seong-gye was the king
who founded the Joseon Dynasty in 1392.
Pendant with three tuho game ornaments
Yuso attached to the Royal Portrait of King Taejo
Yuso
together to form a single ornament known
as norigae samjak. The shapes and patterns
of the pendants contain not only decorative
but also symbolic elements. Joseon women
expressed their wish for good luck, wealth,
many sons and eternal youth through the richly
symbolic images of bats, cicadas, butterflies,
chili peppers, lotus flowers, Korean socks, bells,
ornamental knives and Buddhist prayer beads.
Pendant with embroidered cicada ornaments
Pendant with three embroidered needle case ornaments
19
Pendant with three embroidered bat ornaments
18
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Jumeoni
Seonchu
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—
As hanbok, the traditional Korean attire, did not have pockets,
Seonchu is a dangling ornament attached to the handle of
Korean men and women, regardless of age, used to carry small
a fan, giving it a touch of elegance and class. In the early
pouches known as jumeoni, for practical and decorative purposes.
Joseon period, seonchu-decorated fans were used only
These traditional pouches had many variations: gwi jumeoni for
in the royal court, but with the diversification of shapes
men, duru jumeoni for one-year-olds, and separate pouches for
and usages, such prestigious fans were later allowed to be
medicine, stationary, spoons and eyeglasses.
used by government officials and the upper class.
The photo is of a duru jumeoni that was attached to a one-year
In making seonchu, the first step is to tie a round cord of a
birthday band. This special ceremonial band, hung from shirts
finer thickness in the middle. Forming the dongsimgyeol
and long vests, is long in length, symbolizing long life for the
knot that is the basis for the completed decoration is
baby. The pouch comes with tassels in a combination of colors,
the next step. The process ends with a decorative tassel
either blue-pouch-red-tassel or red-pouch-blue-tassel.
added at the lower end of the seonchu. Bells, strawberries
They are also decorated with a wide range of goebul (a triangular-
or rings are common designs for the tassel.
shaped ornament made of silk, cotton and colored strings).
Templestay
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They commune with
nature, crossing over
Dosol stream’s stone
bridge as mist rises
from the water.
Seonun-sa,
Where Even the
Mountain Winds
Take a Break...
One fall day when the beautiful autumn foliage
had dyed the mountains in splashes of color,
the Colombian novelist Andres Solano and his
Korean wife, Yi Soo-jeong, visited Seonun-sa
in Gochang in Jeollanam-do. They had come to
attend a 2-day Seonun-sa Templestay program
that Soo-jeong had prepared for her husband who
was much interested in Korean culture. She did
this to celebrate their 5th wedding anniversary. In
a serene and quiet mountain temple, the couple
experienced new aspects of Korean culture and
also took away many beautiful memories.
—
Article by Shin Hee-yeon | Photos by Choi Bae-moon
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Seonun-sa,
Interview
with
Venerable Mujin
Tinted with Autumn Leaves and Love
—
Along the Dosol stream flowing in front of the mountain temple
Seonun-sa, flaming red spider lilies grew in abundance. As fall
comes, the lilies die off and Seonun-sa’s surroundings are bathed
in the colors of autumn. The color of the surroundings, brilliant
but not flashy, possesses a refined beauty. It allows visitors to
broaden their minds and breathe comfortably.
Soo-jeong told us, “Though Andres is a foreigner, I believed
he will consider this Templestay the best gift to celebrate our
first-year anniversary of living in Korea because he has shown
much interest in this country. I myself also look forward to it,
religiously, philosophically and culturally. I am very ready for
Seonun-sa Templestay
this unique experience.”
Schedule
Soo-jeong and Andres have been married five years and
are still deeply in love. Even when Soo-jeong introduced her
husband to us, their eyes were constantly in contact as they
exchanged smiles with each other. They met in May 2008
Day 1
14:30
Room Assignment
15:40
through an event called the “Cultural Partnership Initiative,”
hosted by the Korean Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism
in which a number of artists from developing countries were
Receive Training Uniform &
Temple Etiquette and Temple
Tour
17:10
Dinner
18:00
Sounding of the Four Dharma
Instruments & Evening Dharma
invited to Korea. Andres Solano was one of the invitees as he
Service
was listed as one of Colombia’s Top 100 future leaders, and
18:30
108 Prostrations
Soo-jeong was a member of the event staff from the “Foundation
19:10
Flower Tea Meditation
21:00
Rest and Bedtime
for Globalization of Korea.” Over time, their fateful meeting
evolved into love and they were eventually married. They are
just two of the lucky people who seized love and happiness with
Day 2
both hands without regard to ethnicity or nationality. They say
4:00
Wake up
they have already been living in Korea for one year since coming
4:30
Early Morning Dharma Service
5:00
Qigong Exercise & Walking
back from Colombia and Spain where they spent four years.
For these two people, who have as much cultural pride
and curiosity as they do love for each other, the Seonun-sa
Templestay was a long awaited cultural experience that could
not be put off.
Meditation
6:10
Breakfast
7:30
Walking Meditation to Dosol-am
11:40
Lunch
1
2
3
4
Seonun-sa looks different and smells
1. Andres and Soo-jeong stacking
stones to make a wish
2. At the Hall of Eight Phases, Soojeong explains to her husband
the Pictures of the Eight Major
Events in the Buddha’s life.
3. In front of the Main Buddha Hall,
the couple bows to the Buddha.
4. The couple shares a peaceful
moment in the mountain temple.
different at various times of the year.
Visitors are welcomed by camellias
in spring, green tea leaves in summer,
red spider lilies in fall, and the snowy
landscape in winter. We have diverse
Templestay programs as well.
The “True Self” Templestay assists
people in finding their true self
when they are facing such major
issues as choosing a course of study,
determining a life path or finding a
job. The “Blind Date” Templestay
offers participants the chance to meet
a compatible mate based on their
common interests and temperaments.
The “Flower Tea” Templestay allows
participants to experience picking
green tea leaves and enjoying different
kinds of “flower tea.” The “Hiking”
Templestay involves hiking into the
mountains to where the Maitreya
Buddha is carved into the face of a cliff
at Dosol-am Hermitage. The hike itself
is a symbolic journey to the Pure Land
of Maitreya. Seonun-sa’s Templestay
programs are designed to introduce
participants to Buddhist culture that
they can experience through the five
senses, or perhaps beyond.
26
27
108 Prostrations and Flower Tea Meditation
in Search of One’s True Self
—
1 2
3
4 5
1,2. Flower Tea Meditation with
Ven. Mujin. The elegant scent
and flavor of the flower tea fills
body and mind.
3. A meditation program offers
participants a chance of “being
mindful.”
4,5. The 108 prostrations practice
both empties and refreshes the
mind.
As the couple entered Seonun-sa, where it is said
the whole body, they participated in flower tea
that even the mountain winds take a rest, their pace
meditation which is intended to bring peace of mind.
of walking slowed, almost becoming reverent and
Ms. Park Gyeong-suk, director of the Mind Picture
calm. After exchanging nods with the other 33
Institute, led that program. The participants sat in
Korean participants, they began the program
pairs facing each other, placing their cups of flower
with an introduction to temple etiquette and adjusted
tea (made from lotus, camellia and magnolia flowers)
their attitudes accordingly.
and beautiful dasik (traditional pressed confection
eaten with Korean tea) between them. Andres and
The participants then took the temple tour,
guided by the Templestay program manager,
Soo-jeong sat facing each other and quietly paid
Mr. Oh Sung-ho, whose narration was as intriguing
attention to each other’s stories. The meditation
as an old Korean legend. The tour began with the
program then offered participants a chance of
Main Buddha Hall where the Vairocana Buddha,
“being mindful.” This is a silent pilgrimage to one’s
the Medicine Buddha, and the Amitabha Buddha
true self and “awakening” which allows one to react
are enshrined. They then saw the Hall of Eight
to changes in one’s body and mind. Through these
Phases where eight pivotal scenes from the life of
programs, the participants attempted to probe deep
the Buddha are displayed, and lastly, to the Hall
into themselves, as well as their partner’s mind.
of Ksitigarbha where the Bodhisattva Ksitigarbha
is enshrined. He is in charge of the afterlife and is
thought-provoking to delve deep into my and
accompanied by the Ten Kings of the realms of hell
my husband’s minds, to me, above all, the 108
who judge the sins of the deceased.
prostrations was the most memorable experience.
It was not as tough as I thought and gave me some
Ven. Mujin explained, “We prostrate ourselves
Soo-jeong later told us, “Though it was very
in order to empty our minds by setting aside our
kind of meditative and ‘Seon feeling.’ I think it is
108 afflictions and sufferings. Bow to your true
also good exercise. I feel great. I think I can do it at
self, and do not think of it as bowing to an idol.”
home without difficulty.”
He then demonstrated proper bowing form to the
participants, and all of them, in time with the sound
rosy and flushed. The couple walked back to their
of his bamboo clapper, completed their prostrations
rooms, chatting about their impressions of the first
speedily. After the 15-minute long 108 prostrations
day’s experiences. Night came to the temple,
ended, Soo-jeong and Andres smiled as if asking
lit only by the stars and the moonlight. They later
each other, “Are we already done?” and wiped the
admitted that sleeping on the heated floor, called
sweat off their brows.
ondolbang in Korean, was one of their more pleasant
memories of this mountain temple.
After the 108 prostrations, that also exercise
Soo-jeong looked more alive with her cheeks
28
29
Early Morning Dharma Service
Tourist Sites in Gochang
and Walking Meditation
Encounter with an
Ancient Gochang Stone Castle
—
Contrary to the worries of the previous night,
they awoke easily at 4 a.m. and attended the early
of the gigantic Maitreya Buddha carved on the
morning Dharma service, which began with the
rock cliff near Dosol-am, and it was very nice to
soft but majestic sound of the Dharma bell.
hear the story about that Buddha. At the teahouse,
It was still pitch-dark outside, but they walked to
we unexpectedly met Ven. Jin-yong and enjoyed
1
the Dharma hall and completed the chanting and
conversation over tea with him. I enjoyed a lot our
4
the prostrations, copying the movements of the
time with him and really liked his gift, this cute
monks. The atmosphere in the Dharma hall was
protecting Ksitigarbha doll.”
even more earnest and reverential than before.
Soo-jeong said, “The sound of everyone’s
Templestay’s programs, smiled brightly and said
chanting together, rather low and soft, sounded
that having experienced and learned some of the
like reading poetry or singing. Though I have
Korean traditional and Buddhist culture stimulated
no idea what it meant, it touched me deeply.”
his curiosity and interest even more.
Andres, having no particular religion, added
There is a proverb that says, “Your knowledge
that the absence of sermons and praise was quite
determines your insight.” This proverb can
impressive and new to him.
perhaps well reflect Andres’ case. He says that
What followed after was the qigong exercise.
Soo-jeong said, “I liked the humorous look
Andres, who seemed to enjoy all of the
he would like to come back when his friend from
It is intended to stimulate the acupuncture points
Colombia visits Korea next month. Placing his
of the body in order to awaken the not yet fully
palms together in front of his chest, he bowed to
awakened body and mind. Afterward, they
say good-bye to everyone.
performed walking meditation on Mt. Dosol.
Leaving Seonun-sa, they walked along Dosol
stream, passing the mysterious Jin-heung Cave
on the way, and stopped by Dosol-am Hermitage.
They continued to walk till they arrived at the
Maitreya Buddha carved into the rock cliff.
The participants thoroughly enjoyed the richness
of Mt. Dosol’s scenery.
Seonun-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-63-561-1375
Website
www.seonunsa.org
2
3
1. The sound of the Dharma
drum permeates their minds,
inspiring them.
2. During the Dharma service,
they sense the comfort of
sitting in front of the Buddha.
3. The sitting Maitreya Buddha
carved into a cliff near Dosolam, Seonun-sa. The face of the
Maitreya Buddha is humorous
and the legend behind it is
interesting.
4. On the way to Dosol-am, they
experience the mysterious Jinheung Cave.
Gochang
Stone Castle
surrounds Mt.
Bang-Jang
(743m) located
in Gochang,
Jeollabukdo.
It was constructed during the Joseon Dynasty
and is almost perfectly preserved. The roughly
cut stones of the castle wall reflect the arduous
work of the commoners who built it, earnestly
praying for an end to the Japanese invasion. The
circumference of the castle is 1,648 meters and
the walls are 4~6 meters in height. Stones to
bombard the enemy were collected in a ritual
called “Stepping on the Castle” in which women
would carry a stone on their head and circle
the castle, passing the east, west, north gates
and the ongseong (a defensive secondary wall
built to further protect the gates of the castle).
In recent days, walking around the castle has
become a trendy form of exercise.
(Tel. +82-63-560-2710)
Midang Literary House,
Exuding the Scent of Chrysanthemums
The Midang
Hall of Poetry
Literature was
built in 2001 to
commemorate
the poet
Suh Jeongju whose pen name was Midang. It is located
in Seonun-ri village, Buan-eup, Gochang-gun,
Jeollabukdo, the place where he lived and
died. After he passed away, it was decided to
convert the old Seonun primary school into the
Midang Hall of Poetry Literature. Midang Hall
exhibits the poet’s handwritten manuscripts
and his collected works. It also displays some
of his cherished possessions. Every November
when the chrysanthemums bloom, the Midang
Literature Festival is held, and various programs
are prepared for the public’s participation such
as the Midang essay contest, poetry reading, an
academic conference, and the Midang Literature
Award ceremony.
(Tel.+82-63-560-2760)
Temple Food
30
31
Wholesome and
Tasty Traditional
Korean Food
Gyeongdan and Yakgwa
Gyeongdan, colorful rice balls covered with various flavored coatings, and
sweet, chewy yakgwa are traditional Korean foods that please both the eye and
the palate. Let us prepare a special table for New Year’s Day by making rice
cake balls with wholesome ingredients like red beans, mung beans, sesame
seeds, black sesame seeds and dates and by making nourishing yakgwa, which is
without fail found on the table at memorial ceremonies on Korean holidays.
—
Cooking by Ven. Dongwon (Bongnyeong-sa Temple) | Food stylist Shin
Yeong-seop (Arancia) | Article by Kim Gyeong-mi | Photos by Ha Ji-gwon
Bongnyeong-sa Temple in Suwon exudes the
pioneers both the popularization and globalization
atmosphere of a mountain temple despite its
of temple food. Of its temple food festivals,
location in the city. On the path from the Single
Ven. Dongwon says, “The temple food festivals
Pillar Gate toward the temple compound, one
held at Bongnyeong-sa can be said to be one of the
looks up at the blue sky and feels the clear air
major cultural festivals that Suwon’s citizens can
of a forest, gradually releasing the tension built
enjoy together and participate in. Public interest in
up in body and mind. Though situated in a city,
temple food, imbued with the flavors of nature, is
Bongnyeong-sa is somehow comforting, as
growing day by day.”
though one is being warmly embraced by the hills.
It is a matter of great joy and solace to be able to
appearance of new dietary trends like “a meal a
experience this kind of temple in a city.
day” or “intermittent fasting,” public interest in
temple food continues to rise because temple food
In line with the “wellbeing” trend that began
Ven. Dongwon further says that despite the
a few years ago, interest in temple food is also on
is pure and natural, as well as nutritious.
the rise. Bongnyeong-sa has researched temple
food diligently to preserve the “taste of nature”
Myo-eom, Ven. Dongwon is working to reproduce
and to spread the “aesthetics of sharing.”
Korea’s ancient fermented foods, as well as
As part of its effort to develop a culinary
preserving the traditional methods of making
culture that purifies body and mind with natural
Korea’s three basic fermented condiments: soy
ingredients, Bongyeong-sa held the “International
sauce (ganjang), soybean paste (doenjang) and hot
Feast of Temple Cuisine” last fall, which was a
pepper paste (gochujang). As the Vice Director
great success. People flocked to the temple to
of the Bongnyeong-sa Temple Food Institute, she
experience the exotic temple foods of Myanmar,
is studying the aforementioned condiments, which
Sri Lanka, Thailand, Vietnam, Tibet, Bhutan,
can be said to be the epitome of slow food, taking
Nepal and Mongolia. In this way, Bongnyeong-sa
months to ferment.
In honor of the will of the late Ven. Seju
32
Gyeongdan,
Gyeongdan, which is flavored with beautiful coatings of colored
Rice Cake
powders, is chewy, and one has the added pleasure of selecting
Flavored with
powders. Traditionally, Koreans made sorghum gyeongdan
Five Colored
coated with red bean powder when a baby reached 100 days old
Coatings
one’s own favorite tastes from among the savory and sweet
or on their 1st birthday. This is an enduring custom originating
from the wish that babies grow up healthy because the color red
wards off evil.
Directions
Sticky rice gyeongdan:
1. Wash the sticky rice and soak it in water until the rice fully absorbs the water.
2. Drain the sticky rice in a strainer and grind it into powder. (Add a little salt.)
3. Mix the sticky rice powder with hot water to make dough. Roll it into small
balls, no bigger than 2cm in diameter.
4. Put the rice balls into boiling water. When the rice balls are cooked, they float.
Then take them out with a strainer and put them in cold water to cool.
5. Take the rice balls out of the cold water. Roll them in the various powders to
coat them.
Ingredients
Sticky rice gyeongdan: 200g of sticky rice
powder, salt and sugar, coating powders (30g
of shredded dates, 30g of black sesame seed
powder, 30g of plain sesame seed powder)
Sorghum gyeongdan: 100g of glutinous
sorghum, 100g of sticky rice powder, salt and
sugar, coating powders (100g of red beans,
100g of mung beans)
Sorghum gyeongdan:
1. Wash the sorghum and sticky rice together and soak them in water.
2. Boil the red beans. When you can crush the red bean between your fingers,
drain the water from the pot. Leave the pot uncovered until the excess moisture
evaporates. Add a little salt and sugar and pound the red beans with a pestle.
3. Soak the mung beans in water to remove the skin. Steam the mung beans in
a steamer. Add a little salt and sugar to the cooked mung beans and pound with
a pestle. Let it cool.
4. Drain the soaked sorghum and sticky rice from step 1 and grind them into
powder. (Add a little salt)
5. Mix the sorghum and sticky rice powders and add hot water to make dough.
Roll them into small balls, no bigger than 2cm in diameter.
6. Put the rice balls into boiling water. When the rice balls float, then take them
out with a strainer and put them in cold water to cool.
7. Take the rice balls out of the cold water and roll them in the red bean or mung
bean powder.
33
34
Sweet and
Yakgwa, a traditional confection favored by Koreans on New
Savory Yakgwa,
Year’s Day, are deep-fried cookies made from dough made by
a Traditional
cinnamon powder. These deep-fried cookies are submerged
Korean Confection
in a honey syrup and then drained.
kneading together flour, honey, sesame oil, ginger extract and
Directions
Ingredients
400g of flour, 4tbs of ginger extract, 1/2tbs
of cinnamon powder, 6tbs of sesame oil, 6tbs
of honey, 1/2tbs of salt, honey syrup (1 cup
of grain syrup, ½ cup of water, 3-4 pieces of
thin-sliced ginger, ½ cup of honey, 2tbs of
lemon extract, 1/2tbs of cinnamon powder).
1. Mix flour, salt, sesame oil, ginger extract, cinnamon powder and honey well.
Sift the mixture with a sieve.
2. Form the mixture from step 1 into a lump. Do not knead it but rub it gently to
form a loose dough.
3. Make the honey syrup by mixing the ingredients and boil it on low heat for
about ten minutes.
4. Roll the dough flat into about a 0.8cm thickness. Fold the dough onto itself and
roll it again. Repeat this about 4-5 times. Cut the dough into 3.5x4cm squares
or use a flower-shaped mold. At the center of the cookies, make a cut with a
knife or poke a few times with a fork or skewer so that they are cooked well
when fried.
5. Fry the cookies in 110ºC oil.
6. When the cookies float and swell up, move them to 140~160ºC oil. Fry until
brown.
7. Drain the cookies with a strainer. Spread the cookies on a piece of paper to
further absorb excess oil.
8. Soak the cookies in honey syrup for 1-2 hours.
9. Drain them using a strainer again. Garnish with shredded dates or pine nuts.
35
Temple Diary
36
In the early
morning we walked
around the temple,
preserving the
beauty of Naeso-sa
My Templestay
at Naeso-sa Temple:
A Connection to the Past
I recently participated in Naeso-sa’s Templestay program. Naeso-sa is located
in Byeonsanbando National Park, Jeollabuk-do Province, a three hour drive
from Seoul. As we made our way through the Korean countryside one crisp
November morning, my anticipation grew. Being the last weekend of autumn,
a gaggle of eager hikers was milling around the park’s entrance, preparing to
assault the various trails that run through Byeonsanbando. This sight was in
great contrast to the serene environment I was about to experience. On reaching
Naeso-sa, I was immediately struck by its natural beauty, cradled so perfectly
amongst the mountains, now painted with colorful autumnal foliage.
I was eager for the experience to come.
—
Article by Tom Shardlow | Photos by Nam Yun-jung
in our minds.
38
First Thoughts
A Sound in the Darkness
—
—
Since coming to Korea earlier in
Shortly after arriving at the temple, I received the Templestay
the year to live and work, escaping
uniform, after which we were warmly welcomed and informed
from the city has become a
of some of the rules of temple life, as well as our schedule
regular part of my life, a means of
for the stay. The monk assigned to our group led us around
refreshing my mind. Throughout
the temple, introducing the temple buildings and its myriad
my trips into the mountains
of significant artifacts. At the heart of the temple stands the
and to the coasts, I have visited
main hall, a breathtaking structure. The hall is unpainted on the
many historical sites, temples in
outside, accentuating its harmony with the natural environment
particular. Previously I had felt far
and setting it apart from many other such buildings.
removed from the people I often
saw praying there, being a tourist
large bronze bell and other ceremonial instruments used in
in a place others placed far greater
various rituals. As nightfall came, the monk demonstrated their
importance on. I hoped that my stay
use. The sound of the bell in particular seemed to resonate over
at Naeso-sa would bring me a little
the entire mountain and beyond, filling me with a sense of calm.
closer to understanding their world
I thought of the historical depth of this tradition and the Buddhist
view and help to broaden my own.
faith in Korea, which has shaped Korean life and history
throughout the ages; this sound which has boomed out over the
Naeso-sa is located in
39
eso-sa’s pagodas,
t Na
dly explained abou
Ven. Wonjeong kin
halls.
bells and Buddha
Participating in the
evening Dharma ser
vice at the Main
Buddha Hall, my he
art calmed down.
Housed in a pavilion opposite from the hall are the temple’s
southwestern Korea, close to the
countryside since the temple’s foundation in the Three Kingdoms
coast. This setting, surrounded by
period. I felt firmly connected with the past at that moment, and
a beautiful natural environment,
it was a real privilege to experience.
The majestic sound of the
temple bell
seemed to reverberate in
my heart.
ll,
rean be
e to sound a Ko
ever experienc
e.
It was my first
m
d
he
d touc
c sonorous soun
and its majesti
makes it a special place to
experience the seclusion of temple
life.
five parts
stration, touching
rform a proper pro
ground.
the
I learned how to pe
to
,
d forehead
ows, two knees an
of my body, two elb
Ven. Wonjeong tol
d us an interesting
legend about an Av
(Gwaneumjo), said
alokitesvara Bird
to have drawn the
colorful designs in
the Dharma Hall.
preciate
e need to ap
king tea, w
in
dr
n
to slowly
p
he
W
drink a si
rst and then
fi
a
om
ar
s
it
its taste.
appreciate
40
Before beginning baru gon
gyang (formal
monastic meal), one mu
st hold up the wooden
bowl called baru and exp
ress one’s gratitude
for the food.
ll;
-dang Ha
on at Seolseon
The iron cauldr
rprised me.
its sheer size su
Though the proced
ure of baru gongya
ng was not simple
it was an opportunit
,
y to realize the pre
ciousness of food
by eating every bit
e, leaving nothing
to waste.
41
Break of Dawn
To the Mountain and Back
—
—
In the temple, monks go to bed early and rise early, their day
Later that day we walked together
starting at 4 a.m. We were no different. On the morning of the
to the mountain to see its wild
second day, I wrestled myself out of bed and slid open the doors
beauty close-up. I had been eager
to my room. I took in my first breath of the cool morning and
to get into the mountains, and my
looked out over the courtyard outside our quarters. The silence
mind felt light after our morning of
and crisp pre-dawn air was invigorating and, as I gazed up at the
contemplation. It gave great context
sky and the brilliant white moon, I soon forgot my tiredness.
to the temple to be amongst the
beautiful and rugged environment;
Our group assembled and moved in single file to the main
hall to begin our morning worship. As we performed our
a landscape that surely inspired the
prayers, I felt peaceful. The repetition of the prayer ritual helped
temple’s founders in years past.
to clear my mind of my day to day worries and the hustle and
bustle of life in the city. Looking around the room as we bowed
through the mountains, I spoke
to the east and west, I could see the historical murals, depicting
further with the monk who watched
Buddha in various vibrantly colourful scenes, as well as the
over us during our stay. It was
architectural touches that adorn the interior of the hall. Equally
enjoyable to hear more about his
moving were the photos of members of the temple’s brotherhood
life in the temple and his own
who had passed away. I have always admired Korea’s reverence
personal story. On our return to the
and continuing tribute to the deceased, and it took on further
temple, we bid our farewells and
significance to be a part of the
took our final breaths of the fresh
congregation bowing to their
mountain air.
memory.
Over the course of our trek
I left the temple feeling a sense
of relaxation and calmness, ready
to re-enter “normal life” but also
hoping to keep with me some of the
The meditation session was a bit challenging, but
I tried to
concentrate my mind.
said to be
a Hall are
ain Buddh
M
s
a’
beautifully
-s
so
a variety of
ors of Nae
ed
do
al
e
ve
ic
re
tt
n
la
inatio
The floral
closer exam
in Korea. A
celebrated
.
oral patterns
designed fl
lessons from my stay.
ing on Mt.
Four hours of trekk
an opportunity
s
Naebyeon-san wa
’s beautiful
rea
to appreciate Ko
mountains.
Naeso-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-63-583-3035
Website
http://www.naesosa.org
Journeys
Travelling the
Baekdu-daegan,
Encountering Life
As the year drew to a close, more trees revealed their naked selves to the
encroaching cold. Leaves began to fall, and soon snow covered everything
in the forest. The mountains would be tranquil and deserted for a while.
One day, as fall was turning to winter, I embarked on a journey along the
Baekdu-daegan, the 460-mile-long mountain range that runs north and south
the length of the Korean Peninsula. The mountain scenery and the people who
live there, embraced by the vastness of the Baekdu-daegan, were comforting,
as well as beautiful.
—
Article by Ryu Su-min | Photos by Ha Ji-gwon
42
43
44
45
Baekdu-daegan, the Greatest, Longest
Mountain Range on the Korean Peninsula
—
Beginning from Mt. Baekdu-san in the north
down to Mt. Jiri-san in the south, Baekdu-daegan
all visitors. The path leading to the temple is lined
is Korea’s greatest and longest mountain range.
with old fir trees reaching high into the sky and is
On the Korean Peninsula, whose shape some say
an iconic feature of Woljeong-sa. The temple is
resembles a tiger, the Baekdu-daegan corresponds
embraced by the mountains, solemn but not overly
to the backbone of the tiger. My Baekdu-daegan
severe. Some people say the mountains encircle
journey began from the vicinity of Mt. Seorak-san,
Woljeong-sa like the petals of a lotus, thus,
in the northernmost mountain range of South
one can easily imagine Woljeong-sa as being the
Korea. Mt. Baekdu-san and Mt. Geumgang-san
center of a lotus growing in the Baekdu-daegan.
are also in this range but lie in North Korea.
Under the afternoon sunlight stands Woljeong-sa’s
Nine-Story Octagonal Stone Pagoda.
Thanks to its close proximity to the East Sea,
On Mt. Odae-san, Woljeong-sa Temple greets
Mt. Seorak-san also provides a view of the ocean,
What’s unique about this pagoda is the kneeling
as superb and beautiful as its mountain scenery.
stone bodhisattva looking up at it. He must be
When white snow falls on the blue ocean, the
seriously focused to not mind kneeling in the dirt.
contrast of colors is starkly beautiful. Undaunted
by the sharp winter winds, people frolic on the
subsidiary range of the Baekdu-daegan. The
snow-covered beach. The seaside, a fine sandy
Daegwallyeong Sheep Farm (Yangtte Mokjang) is
beach in summer, becomes a wonderland of snow
one of the biggest tourist attractions in this area.
in winter.
The path to the sheep pens was steep, but after
Daegwallyeong is a mountain pass in a
seeing their cute faces and petting their soft fur,
1
2 3
1. A view of Mt. Odae-san, its
leafy outer coat now stripped
away
2. Woljeong-sa, a temple some
liken to a lotus growing in the
Baekdu-daegan
3. People enjoy frolicking on
the snow-covered beach,
undaunted by piercing winds.
I forgot about my aching legs and the cold wind.
V-train, the Train through Baekdu-daegan’s Valleys
The V-train runs 27.7 km through the valleys of the Baekdu-daegan three
times a day, connecting Buncheon, Yangwon, Seungbu and Cheoram. The
train ride is popular with tourists as it provides a leisurely journey through
the many valleys, an enjoyable way to see the innermost recesses of the
Baekdu-daegan. As some areas are only accessible by train, the scenery is
often breathtaking. The clear streams and rivers, the myriad of mysteriouslyshaped rocks and the splendid mountain terrain naturally arouse sighs of
wonder. The V-train stops at each station for about 10 minutes. Passengers
may disembark and sightsee, buy local produce, or buy makgeolli, locally
made rice wine. • For detailed information consult http://www.v-train.co.kr
46
47
Encountering People, Life and Faith
on Every Mountain Range
—
Changing direction to head southwest, I drove
Cheongnyang-sa. The temple was built by Great
is occupied by descendants of Chungjae Gwon
toward the lower region of the Baekdu-daegan
Master Wonhyo in the 3rd year of the reign of
Beol, a Confucian scholar of the Joseon Dynasty.
and visited Buseok-sa Temple. Above Muryangsu-
the Silla king, Munmu, and Master Wonhyo is
Superb scenery surrounds not only Cheongam-
jeon Hall, hailed as the oldest wooden structure in
also known to have resided there for some time.
jeong Pavilion, built on a massive, turtle-shaped
Korea, the sky spread far and wide like a painter’s
Perhaps great masters have a discerning eye to
rock, but also Seokcheon Valley where large,
canvas, embroidered on its edges with mountains
recognize splendid scenery and auspicious sites.
flat rocks and pine trees proliferate to offer
of various sizes and shapes.
Looking up from Cheongnyang-sa at the beauty
picturesque scenery.
and splendor of Mt. Cheongnyang-san, visitors
saying I was in Bonghwa. Bonghwa is home to
naturally sigh, and after climbing Cheongnyang-
mountainous regions are inseparably intertwined
Cheongnyang-sa Temple, nestled securely on
san to look down upon Cheongnyang-sa and its
with the mountains themselves. Among these
Yeonhwa (Lotus Flower) Peak, one of the 12
Five-story Stone Pagoda, they marvel.
rivers and streams and mountain, interspersed
peaks of Mt. Cheongnyang-san. I slept that night
with patches of farmland, people build their
in one of the local minbak (a Korean style bed
Vairocana, thought to have been carved into
houses, farm the land, raise children and
and breakfast found in rural areas) and went up to
the rock cliff during the late Unified Silla era.
livestock, always looking up to the heavens with
Cheongnyang-sa the next morning.
I couldn’t help but wonder who had taken the
faith. These waters, mountains, lands and people
The clear, crisp air greeted me, as did the aroma
trouble to come to this remote village so long
have evolved with great effort over thousands of
of the surrounding forest, populated by a variety
ago and carved this Buddha into this large rock.
years to cover the basic skeletal structure of the
of pine trees and deciduous trees. Eungjin-jeon
Visitors should not leave Bonghwa without seeing
Korean Peninsula. In that sense, they are more
Hall provides a scenic viewpoint from which
the Cheongam-jeong Pavilion and Seokcheon
precious than anything.
visitors can appreciate the splendid scenery of
Valley. Both are located in Daksil Village which
I drove further south until I saw a road sign
Not far from Cheongnyang-sa is the Standing
The lives of the people who live in
1 2
1. Sunset at Buseok-sa, as beautiful as an Oriental
painting
2. Cheongnyang-sa’s Five-Story Stone Pagoda
3. A Vairocana Buddha carved into a rock cliff at
Dongmyeon-ri, not far from Cheongnyang-sa
Temple.
4. A view of refined and elegant hanok as seen from
Cheongam-jeong Pavilion in Daksil Village
5. Daksil Village at Bonghwa provides wonderful
walking paths between the hanok, the traditional
Korean houses huddled here and there.
6. Pine mushroom stew, a specialty of Bonghwa
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Woljeong-sa Templestay
Telephone
+82-33-339-6606
Website
http://woljeongsa.org
Templestay Q&A
Dharma
Instruments
Used at
Buddhist
Ceremonies
Q. What is a moktak?
A. A moktak, or wooden handbell, is a major Dharma
instrument that is ubiquitous in Buddhist culture. Indeed,
it is not an overstatement to say that moktak are used
at almost all Buddhist ceremonies. Mountain temples
open and end their days with the sound of the moktak.
Monastics also chant to the
sound of a moktak. In addition,
when temples want to
convene a meeting or
gather monks and nuns
together for communal
projects, they sound the
moktak.
Let us learn the distinctive meanings
and usages of three traditional Dharma
Q. How are yeomju or Buddhist prayer beads used?
instruments: the moktak (wooden
A. Prayer beads are used to keep count when Buddhists
handbell), prayer beads (yeomju) and
the bamboo clapper (jukbi).
—
Article by Kim Yu-Shin
Illustrations Kim Da-jeong
perform prostration practice or recite the names of
Buddhas and bodhisattvas. In addition, many Buddhists
wear them around their necks or wrists to help maintain
peace of mind. Prayer beads basically consist of 108 beads
to symbolize the 108 mental afflictions that cloud the
human mind. Of course one cannot simply categorize all
mental afflictions into 108 groups. Thus the number “108”
is symbolic and actually means “innumerable” or “all.”
Though yeomju can be divided into many types
according to their composition and
usage, they are commonly divided
into four types. The 108-bead
yeomju is the basic model, but there
are also a 1080-bead model, a 54-bead
model, and a 27-bead model. Smaller
prayer-bead bracelets are called danju.
Q. When is the jukbi or bamboo clapper used?
A. Bamboo clappers are used at temples to mark the
beginning and end of meditation sessions and to awaken
practitioners who doze off during Seon meditation.
A jukbi is made from a 40-60 cm length of bamboo.
Then two thirds of the length is split in half and
1/3 of the length is left to serve as a hand grip.
When sounding the bamboo clapper, you hold
it in your right hand and strike the split part
against your left palm.
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