Lively Itineraries - Agglopole Provence

> Agglopole
Provence
Come
and Discover
Lively Itineraries
in the Heart of Provence
www.agglopole-provence.fr
Alleins•Aurons•La Barben•Berre l’Etang•Charleval•Eyguières
La Fare les Oliviers•Lamanon•Lançon-Provence•Mallemort•Pélissanne
Rognac•Saint-Chamas•Salon-de-Provence•Sénas•Velaux•Vernègues
Before
You
Set Out
While this guide provides as much d­ etail as possible, using a GPS is always
recommended.
To enjoy every step of the way…
> Don’t hesitate to visit our Tourist Bureaus («Offices de tourisme»)
for recommendations, guidance, and ideas (accommodations, regional
products, outdoor activities, festivals, and more).
> An audio-guided tour is available for each city and village along the way,
providing you with detailed commentary on historical monuments and
natural habitats.
The audio-guides can be obtained from the Tourist Bureaus.
For your safety and to protect the forests, visitor access to all areas
mentioned in this guide is regulated from June 1 to September 30. Please
call one day ahead (+33 811 20 13 13), for the forest fire danger level:
orange (open access), red (access between 6 and 11 am only), or black
(walking, driving, and parking prohibited all day).
Although this guide has been carefully prepared, it may contain errors or omissions. We
apologize in advance and ask that you inform us of any incorrect information.
A destination in the heart of Provence…
2 3
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Live heart
the
17 cities and villages steeped in tradition and millennial savoir-faire, offering
remarkable historical sites and a well-preserved natural environment
This brochure describes three circuits—Val de Durance, Étang de Berre, and
Collines Salonaises—that will help you discover an exceptional and diverse
region: 133 sites and monuments, 18 festivals, 215 eateries including 12
gourmet restaurants. A region where everyone can explore at their own pace
and find what they are looking for.
We’ve put together this guide as a showcase for the rich offering available in
the cities and villages of the «Agglopole Provence» urban area. This is part of
a broader tourism policy to promote our region not only to tourists, but also
to its residents, since tourism is an essential driver of economic growth
and job creation.
Nicolas ISNARD
President of Agglopole Provence
Mayor of Salon-de-Provence
We take this opportunity to thank our tourism professionals who work yearround to offer you quality services and help you discover all the ways you can
enjoy our region.
Don’t hesitate to contact our Tourist Bureaus, where you will find information
and ideas for the perfect trip or get-away.
Here’s to lively adventures and rich discoveries!
Philippe GRANGE
Vice-President of Agglopole Provence
Tourism Delegate
Mayor of Alleins
CONTENTS
Itinerary 1
Itinerary 2
Itinerary 3
Route du Val de Durance................ 4
• Mallemort...................................... 5
• Sénas............................................. 7
• Eyguières....................................... 8
• Lamanon........................................ 9
• Pont-royal...................................... 11
• Charleval........................................ 12
Route de l’Etang de Berre.............. 14
• Lançon-Provence........................... 15
• Saint-Chamas................................. 17
• Berre l’Etang.................................. 18
• Rognac........................................... 19
• Velaux............................................ 21
• La Fare les Oliviers........................ 23
Route des Collines Salonaises........ 24
• Pélissanne...................................... 25
• La Barben...................................... 27
• Vernègues...................................... 29
• Alleins............................................ 30
• Aurons........................................... 32
• Salon-de-Provence........................ 33
Route du Val de Durance
Past and Present - Along a Major River in Provence
ITINER
ARY 1
The Val de Durance Route will take
you along the bed of what was once
the Durance River, flowing between
the Alpilles mountains and the Costes
hills, then dropping straight down into
the Mediterranean. That was some
12 million years ago. Today, in the
alluvial plain and surrounding area, the
Durance River supplies water to most
of the villages you’ll pass through,
via the Craponne, Marseille, and EDF
canals, which follow the ancient river’s
path. From these waterways, human
beings have shaped the countryside:
you’ll see cultivated fields,
greenhouses, and orchards (apples,
pears, cherries) along the way, with
the gentle curves of the Luberon and
the sharp peaks of the Alpilles rising
above you. And remember: you’ll
always be surrounded by the history
and heritage of water.
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MALLEMORT
LAMANON
EYGUIÈRES
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SAINT-CHAMAS
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Place Raoul Coustet
Start and end point: Mallemort,
Estimated distance: 70 km
E as
to Sén
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ort-DE
LANÇON
• D23b and old Mallem
D569)
via
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• D72 to Eyguièr
• D17e to Lamanon
aine Pont-Royal
• D17d, D16 and N7 to Dom
D71a)
and
b
D71
(alternate route via
LA FARE-LES-OLIVIERS
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D22
• N7 then
the adventurous via
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• D56
D10
Colombier and Bramejean)
6
D1
You can make an appointment to visit the painting,
sculpture, and pottery studios and galleries in our
villages. Don’t miss Armelle Andreis’ Provence
landscapes. And for antique lovers,be sure to
visit the Mas de Chatelan.
More information is available
from the Tourist Bureau.
4
5
71
-E
VELAUX
c
Km 0Din
55 Mallemort, Place Raoul Coustet, in front
of the Tourist Bureau.
mallemort
D5
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> Village Artists
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QUICK PICKS
ALIVE AND WELL
1
D2
ÉTANG DE BERRE
> Your itinerary starts with a stroll through the village.
ROGNACMallemort was founded two millennia ago, in Roman
BERRE-L’ETANG
DF
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times. Its name, meaning "bad death" in French, dates
to medieval times when bandits roved the nearby
forests and marshes swamped the surrounding plain.
Thanks to an ingenious irrigation system designed by
Adam de Craponne in the 16th century, the plain was
fertilized with water from the Durance River. By the early
20th century, the village had become an agricultural
capital.
Its narrow streets are still lively today, flowing with
energy like the river that Mallemort overlooks from
its hilltop perch.
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Val de D
Explore the village
> Take the Rue Fernand Pauriol
into the heart of Old Mallemort,
where you'll find the Eglise Saint Michel,
a church rebuilt between 1751 and 1756.
The surrounding streets are full of historic
charm: 18th century facades, cobblestones
along Cours Marius Taché and Rue du
Cosmonaute… From the Rue du Château,
you'll get your first glimpse of the plain.
Balcony view of the Durance
> To admire the grandest landscape along your itinerary, walk around
the church and climb the steep path to a panoramic table. Behind you,
the ruins of a 12th century church stand in silence. Before you, the Petit
Luberon range and the waters of the Durance share the countryside with
farmland. You can also admire the famous suspension bridge built
in the mid-19th century.
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Leave the Tourist Bureau on your left and continue
straight through the first roundabout. At the second
roundabout, go left toward Sénas, taking D23. Just
before a major intersection, take the small road to the
right. It will lead you into a typical Provence countryside
on the fertile banks of the Durance.
High cypress and poplar trees line the road to protect
the fields and orchards from the wind. The Petit
Luberon rises on your right. You’ll reach a crossroads
after around 4 kilometers; go straight through. The old
Mallemort road ends after 8 kilometers; take a right on
N7, then go straight until Sénas. After a roundabout,
follow the signs for the city center, then turn right
on Cours Jean-Jaurès.
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Km 9. Sénas, cours Jean Jaurès
In front of the Tourist Bureau / Théâtre de l’Eden
QUICK PICKS
SeNAS
> Théâtre de l’Eden
STILL VIBRANT
> Nestled among orchards and market
gardens, not far from the Alpilles and
Luberon ranges, Sénas has a long history
dating back to the dawn of humanity…
The prehistoric steles from the site bear
witness to its early use and are currently
on display at the Musée Calvet, a museum
in Avignon. The village also features
more recent historical monuments: Eglise
Saint-Armand, a church with 18th century
frescos, the Pont de la Pierre wash house,
and the Pont du Bosquet bridge. Known
for its many festivals throughout the year,
Sénas also boasts one of the region’s finest
country markets.
Nature's abundance
> Along the plane trees that line Place Auguste Jaubert,
more than 40 local producers gather for a market featuring
the rich harvests of the Durance plain. Nearly everything in
the stands is grown within a radius of 30 kilometers.
Whatever the season, you'll find plenty of variety, excellent
quality, and producers with an organic or integrated
approach. In addition to fruits and vegetables, the offering
includes regional products, fish,
bakery goods, cut flowers,
and garden plants.
You can experience the colors, scents,
and tastes of Provence,
all in one place, every morning except
Sunday during the summer (June 1
to September 30), and on Monday,
Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday
the rest of the year.
Behind its art deco façade, this
theater was once home to a movie
house as well as a supermarket.
Now dedicated to the performing
arts, the 200-seat venue offers a
dense and varied program for all
comers from September to June.
Tel. +33 (0)4 90 57 79 36
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Return along Cours Jean-Jaurès in
the opposite direction. Turn right
toward Eyguière (be careful, the sign
is difficult to see). Cross railroad
tracks and go straight toward
Eyguière. Gradually, the orchards
and rows of trees give way to large
cultivated fields, olive groves, and
stretches of pine and almond trees.
The Tour des Opies, highest point
of the Alpilles (498 meters) can be
seen against the horizon. On your
right, the millennium-old ruins of
Queen Jeanne’s castle
stand atop a rocky
peak. After a bend in the
road, you will come to
Eyguières. In the village,
follow the signs for
Miramas. A little further
along, on the left, is a
parking area at Place
Monier.
ance
ur
Val de D
Km 17. Eyguières, place Monier
To reach the Tourist Bureau, take the arched pedestrian
passageway on the north side of the Place, cross the Rue
Raoul Jauffret, and climb the narrow street behind the fountain
(Fontaine Cocotte).
eyguieres
AND ITS THREE SPRINGS
> "L'aigo fai veni poulit", which in Provençal means,
"Water beautifies." This slogan, attributed to Frédéric
Mistral, has been adopted by Eyguières, gateway to
the Alpilles. Situated between the Plaine de la Crau
and the Durance River, the village is supplied by three
springs: La Gilouse, La Borme, and La Fontvieille.
You won't regret a stroll through Eyguières' streets,
admiring manor houses and enjoying the lush setting.
As you'll discover, the course of history in this village
has been traced by water.
• Waterways Circuit :
Make a reservation for a
free guided tour
Groups: €2 / person
More info at the Tourist Bureau
Fountain by fountain
> Eyguières offers you a circuit of 10 spots
where water flows underfoot. You can book
a guided tour or visit on your own. Along
the way, you'll see five of the village's seven
fountains, including the Fontaine Coquille,
bearing the scallop symbol of the Way
of St. James (the GR6 hiking path goes
through Eyguières). Also en route: the Porte
Calade, which protected the entrance to
the village in the Middle Ages, the library
in the restored oil mill, Église NotreDame-de-Grâce with its rare stained glass
windows and beautiful altars, and the Croix
de L’Hirondelle, the most well known of
the many shrines and crosses in Eyguières.
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
A detour via Vallon des Glauges is
recommended.
From Place Monier, take D17 toward Aureille.
Pass through the tunnel of plane trees along
the cemetery with its carefully pruned yews.
After 1 kilometer, there is a sign for Vallon on
the right. Take Chemin de Saint-Pierre,
then Chemin des Glauges.
9
Vallon des Glauges, postcard perfect
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> From the road you’ll discover the natural paradise of a Mediterranean
landscape, dotted with olive trees and lined with vineyards. The valley
is named for a wild iris native to this type of scrubland terrain, known
as the "garrigue". On the right, the lacy limestone of Coste Fère; on
the left, the mineral peaks of the Opies. Millions of years ago, a river
flowed here: the Durance. Several hikes leave from this valley (GR6,
Mont Menu, and others). After around 1 kilometer, you'll reach the
Domaine du Vallon des Glauges, which offers high-quality olive oil
and award-winning wines, all of them
AOC (certified origin) and made using
Domaine du Vallon des Glauges
sustainable practices. Continue a little
• Tél. 04 90 59 81 45
further and you'll reach the start of the
• www.vallondesglauges.com
path to the Tour des Opies with
its extraordinary vistas.
Km 31. Lamanon, Parking at the Maison du
Temps Libre.
To reach to the center of the village, go back
along the road lined with plane trees.
lamanon
AT THE FOOT OF A FOREST
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Take the road directly back to Eyguières.
At the roundabout with the Virgin Mary,
continue straight on, toward Lamanon. On
your right, beyond a vast olive grove, the
Crau Salonaise plain can be seen. The
contour of the Alpilles gradually softens.
After 30 kilometers, you’ll see a residential
area surrounded by a forest as you
approach Lamanon. When you reach the
roundabout at the entrance to the village,
turn right toward Salon-de-Provence. On
your left towers the Giant of Provence
(more later)… Turn left immediately toward
the parking area.
> Located where the Durance once flowed,
Lamanon was created in 1745 when some
50 houses sprang up around a castle built
in 1660 by the Lamanon de Cadenet family.
This charming village remains surrounded by
trees and extends lengthwise along the foot
of a hill where a forest of oak and evergreen
trees conceals an exceptional site.
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Val de D
Calès : in the presence of history
> From the village, a cobblestone path leads up the hill.
The layers of stone reveal the site's successive occupants:
Romans in a military fort in the 5th century, a Catalan lord in
his medieval castle in the 12th century, villagers until the 16th
century. You will soon see a ring of sandstone with strange
cavities: the caves of Calès. Originally a quarry for building the
castle, the site was fashioned into 116 cave dwellings, home
to 200 occupants at the end of the 13th century.
To understand how this community functioned, and to follow
the site's history from the Neolithic Era onward, a guided tour
is recommended.
If you visit on your own, set aside at least two hours to fully
appreciate the site's historic and natural treasures, unique
in France, namely the Chapelle Saint-Denis, built around
the same time as the medieval castle and
well restored, the Plateau Saint-Jean with
its panoramic view of the Alpilles range,
Mont Ventoux, and the Alps themselves.
Please note: certain areas of the site are
dangerous. Be sure to carefully follow the
recommendations on the visitor boards. Back
in the village, you can visit the Musée Calès, a
museum located in the "Le Cabaret" mansion,
also home to the Tourist Bureau.
Association Calès Saint-Denis
• Tél. 06 76 51 76 22
• [email protected]
• www.cales-lamanon.fr
• Admission to the Musée Calès
is free
• Calès tours are guided by volunteers. Available for groups
of at least 15 people.
Giant of provence :
a natural monument
> This oriental plane tree, the largest in Europe (20
meters high and 7.5 meters around) was supposedly
planted by Catherine de Medici, who was passing
through Lamanon on her way to hear Nostradamus'
predictions in Salon-de-Provence. This legend
would make the tree 400 years old, while it is
probably closer to 300… Please admire this giant
from a distance, since it lives on private property.
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ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Head towards Alleins via D17d.
After about 2 kilometers, turn
right, continuing toward Alleins.
The road passes over the EDF
canal.
Farmland extends between
the Petit Luberon range in
the distance and the garrigue
scrubland of the Roque Rousse
hills. You’ll see fruit trees and
greenhouses along the way.
In Alleins, follow the signs for
the city center, then Pont-Royal,
then Mallemort via D16. Turn
right onto N7 toward Pont-Royal.
The entrance to the Domaine de
Pont-Royal, a golf course and
recreational area, is via D561
following a large roundabout.
Pont-Royal
Village-club Pierre&Vacances
• Tél. 0 892 70 01 30
• www.pierreetvacances.com
• www.golf-pontroyal.com
pont-royal
Km 41. Pont Royal, entrance to
the Domaine de Pont-Royal
STYLE AND CHARM
> Today a pedestrian-friendly vacation spot with 3500 inhabitants in the summer,
Pont-Royal was once a simple hamlet, founded in the Middle Ages. In the 13th
century, the Vernègues mill was the grain mill for the local nobility. Later, the site
became a stopping point for stagecoaches. Pont-Royal now boasts an elegant
4-star hotel and restaurant. Guests can take advantage of 180 hectares reserved
for outdoor sports, part of lands where King René of Anjou hunted in the 15th
century.
Swing in the sttun
> This is the only golf course in France designed
by Severiano Ballesteros and features 18 holes
surrounded by Mediterranean and pine forests,
against a mountainous backdrop. The domain's
entrance runs alongside the verdant fairway for
holes 4 and 5. The course is played by amateurs and
professionals alike and hosts the Masters 13,
an international tournament held annually. The most
recent addition to the site is the Durance 6 training
center, giving golfers the best tools to learn
and perfect their game.
ance
ur
Val de D
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Back at the roundabout, follow the signs for
Cazan via N7. One kilometer after Cazan, turn
left toward Charleval. The road is initially
flanked by vineyards, then runs alongside
the forest of Charleval, at the foot of the
Costes hills. To the left you can still see the
Petit Luberon as well as farmland extending
across the plain. When you reach Charleval,
take Avenue du Bois, then turn right onto
Avenue Gaston Roux, and continue until
reaching Place André Leblanc.
Km 52. Charleval,
place André Leblanc,
In front of the Tourist Bureau
Charleval
RURAL BUT REMARKABLE
> Founded in 1741 by César de Cadenet for the families that
worked his lands, Charleval reflects the rectilinear design of
its creator. The streets around the castle, a hunting lodge at
the time, were laid out using a mason's line, and the result is
unique among historical villages in Provence. Agriculture plays
an important role in Charleval today, as seen in its gardens,
orchards, and fields. Open and family-centered, the village
also caters to leisure activities and outdoor sports, offering an
adventure course and a swimming pool in the forest.
Historic district : geometry in bloom
> The Avenue du Château is the central artery of Old Charleval. It runs all the way to the
Canal de Craponne, below the castle's 19th century facade, and offers a fine view of the
village's carefully aligned streets. A walk along the canal is also accessible from this road.
In the village, you can linger at fountains and admire houses decorated with flowers,
as well as the neoclassical schools and town hall, the church built in 1745 or the public
library, which is housed in the old mill.
3
1
2
1
Glimpse the past as you hike
> From the Tourist Bureau parking area, you can walk
to a way-marked trail in the Charleval Forest (a nature
trail also runs along the edge of the woods) that
makes a 5h30 loop between the valleys and hilltops
of the Massif des Costes. Garrigue scrubland and oak
forests give way to natural gardens, with numerous
views of the Luberon and Alpilles ranges, the Durance
plain, Pont-Royal, and Vernègues. Along the way,
you'll notice the Valbonnette and Bonneval-Taillaides
castles, vestiges of a time when Charleval was limited
to the hills, having not yet spread to the plain.
Randonnées Topo 13,
• Chaîne des Côtes, Charleval, du côté de la Durance
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ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
From the parking lot, turn right onto Avenue de Libération. You’ll see
the vineyards of the Domaine de Sainte-Croix winery on your left. At
D561, turn left toward La Roque d’Anthéron. A few hundred meters
further on, look for a little road on your left (D22) and turn there.
After passing rapidly through garrigue scrub, you’ll enter the plain
with its farmland.
Document disponible à l’Office de tourisme
ou sur www.visitprovence.com
Choose between two possibilities:
• At the first crossroads, turn left on D23 and head directly
to Mallemort.
• Or, continue straight into the valley and take local roads along
the river, fields, and greenhouses and through the rural hamlets of
Colombier, Hautes et Basses Royères, Capriers, and Bramejean. You’ll
eventually end up on D23. This route is picturesque, but longer and
with few road signs. It’s a good idea to have a map or a GPS.
Either way, at around kilometer 68 you’ll pass by the Mallemort
fishing pond, a relaxing stop with a waterside restaurant and plenty of
trout for fishers of all ages. To return to Mallemort, stay right after the
EDF canal. At the intersection, head left toward the village. Continue
straight until the light. Turn left, then go right at the next roundabout.
You’ve come full circle.
Route de l'Etang de Berre
An Inland Coast
ITINER
ARY 2
The Étang de Berre Route brings you into contact with a coastline and a long history. During
the Roman Empire, a canal was dug to connect this «étang» or estuary with the Mediterranean,
and civilizations ever since have left their mark. You’ll also discover a rich natural environment.
One of a kind in France, this ecosystem is a mosaic of fragile terrains, where saltwater meets
the freshwater of rivers and streams. As for the landscape, you’ll enjoy its color and variety,
from the sparkling shores of estuary’s «inland sea,» to the richness of the farmland on the
alluvial plain, to the hidden paths through the hills.
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LANÇON-DE-PROVENCE
LA FARE-LES-OLIVIERS
D10
SAINT-CHAMAS
D10
6
D1
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D2
Arc
A7
VELAUX
71
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D5
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D2
ÉTANG DE BERRE
ROGNAC
BERRE-L’ETANG
G THE WAY
> ROUTE AND STOPS ALON
r
vence, Place Saint-Cy
Start and end point: Lançon-Pro
Estimated distance: 75 km
• D15 to Saint-Chamas
ang
• D10 and D21b to Berre l’Et
nac
Rog
to
• D21
F
ED
• D55 and D55c to Velaux
al
an
iers
Oliv
les
e
C
Far
La
to
• D20 and D10
• D10 then D21 to Lançon
ALLEINS
Km 0. Lançon-Provence, Place Saint-Cyr
To reach the Tourist Bureau, take Avenue
Saint-Cyr.
LanCon-Pro
6
A RICH HERITAGE
D1
2b
D2
D2
2d
CAZAN
D22b
VERNÈGUES
8
D6
D
68
D16
A7
AURONS
D22
14
E7
16
D
SALON-DE-PROVENCE
PÉLISANNE
D22a
vence
LA BARBEN
D572
> Already in existence during the
Neolithic Era, Lançon expanded in
Roman times. In the 12th century, it
was integrated into the domain of
the Baux, one of the most powerful
medieval families in Provence. A castle
was built and villagers settled nearby
in the 14th and 15th centuries.
Lançon continued to grow,
blessed with abundant natural
resources. In the old city center
with its historic architecture
is where your journey
begins…
Etang de
Berre
ON TO
THE
History and charm
QUICK PICKS
> Denis Nayrac
This artist blacksmith invites
you to visit his workshop
and share his passion for
metalworking. You’ll find
a number of works and
sculptures on permanent
display in his unusual space.
www.denis-nayrac.com
> Starting from the Tourist Bureau, set off on
a loop through several centuries, with ten
stops from the Middle Ages to the 1800s.
On one street, named Rue Pavé d'Amour,
you'll find facades from the 16th, 17th, and
18th centuries. The Renaissance-style Maison
des Templiers (Templar House, aka Hôtel de
Foresta) dates from the 16th century and is
a designated historic monument. Walking
along the Rue Puits de Picard, behind the
medieval castle, you'll make out the contours
of the old fortifications. On the esplanade at
the end of the Rue de la Tour, a panoramic
table illustrates the magnificent view of the
Salon plain and the airbase, set against
rolling hills, along with the sharper profile of
the Alpilles. From street to street, discover
stately facades, doorways, and mansions
as well as religious edifices. There is also
an archeology museum and a museum
dedicated to Provençal art and tradition.
The entire village is steeped in history and
the subject of many anecdotes, and you'll
have the choice of a guided tour or an
audio-guided tour. The village also puts on
historical re-enactments with professional
actors in full costume.
NEXT STOP
Take Avenue de Saint-Cyr. Turn
left at the light, then follow the
signs to Saint-Chamas. Vineyards,
prairies, and groves of trees can
be seen to the right; to the left, the
Lançon hills rise over the mound
that conceals the EDF canal. A
dialogue between agriculture and
nature unfolds around you. After 4
kilometers, you’ll see the hilltop
village of Cornillon-Confoux
on your right.
The countryside grows more hilly
and dense as you approach the
Étang de Berre estuary.
After passing through handsome
stands of trees, you’ll see the Parc
Communal des Creusets on your
left. Go through two roundabouts
and you’ll arrive in Saint-Chamas. At
the next roundabout (with the Pont
Flavien bridge on your right), follow
the signs for the city center and take
Avenue René Seyssaud toward the
harbor. You’ll have a moment to
discover the Saint-Chamas cove as
you skirt the recreational harbor. At a
triangular junction, keep left to reach
the fishing harbor.
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Km 10. Saint-Chamas, place du 8 mai 1945
To reach the Tourist Bureau, leave the harbor behind
you and take Rue Marcel Bœuf by foot. After five
streets, you’re there.
as
Saint-Cham
STIRRING IMPRESSIONS
> What makes the geography of Saint-Chamas
so unique is Baou Hill, containing cobalt oxide
deposits and topped with limestone. From the
5th to 16th centuries, the villagers lived perched
on this hill, protected by fortifications. Later,
two village districts developed at the foot of
the hill: Pertuis on the estuary side, and Delà
on the land side. The contrasts of the setting
attracted painters in the 19th century, including a
major precursor of fauvism, René Seyssaud, who
spent the end of his life in Saint-Chamas. The
village is delightful to visit and remains home
to many artists, exposing in galleries as well
as the Chapelle Saint-Pierre and the municipal
museum.
A touch of the exotic
> When you reach the Place du 8 Mai on the
Saint-Chamas harbor, you’ll find a fishing
village ambience at least as authentic as in
Mediterranean villages. Mullet and bass are
caught in the estuary, a sign of the renaissance
enjoyed by local traditional fishers.
Looking up, you’ll see that the Baou is dotted
with bay windows. Dug in the early 17th century
for the most part, its caves first served as
storage areas. Today, around twenty of them are
cozy apartments, including a furnished
vacation rental.
QUICK PICKS
> Marius Bernard
A historic player
in Saint-Chamas’
economy, this
producer of Provençal
food items and
specialties recently
celebrated its 50th
anniversary. The
factory, known in the
area for its appetizing
aroma, can be visited
on request.
www.marius-bernard.fr
A wealth of sites and monuments
> Saint-Chamas offers its visitors a dozen historic and
natural sites. The Pont Flavien bridge, a designated
historic monument from the 1st century BC, is the local
showpiece and a reminder of the importance that trade
between Massilia (Marseille) and Arelate (Arles) once had.
What used to be the Poudrerie is now a 120-hectare
park. The gunpowder factory and its grounds have been
transformed into a relaxing space for walking and enjoying
a wealth of biodiversity.
Etang de
ON TO
THE
Berre
NEXT STOP
Drive along the recreational harbor. At the
intersection, go straight and continue along the
gulf. On the right, before a curve in the road,
you’ll see the 18th century Lavoir des Contagieux,
where the sick came to do their washing, far from
the village. At the first roundabout, turn left; at
the second, go straight to return to the entrance
of Saint-Chamas. Turn right on D10 toward Berre.
After a final roundabout, you’ll see the estuary
in all its splendor. On your right, the Petite
Camargue
Km 31. Berre l’Étang, avenue du 8 mai 1945
To reach the Tourist Bureau, walk to the tip of
the parking area, take the avenue that heads off
to the left, and return to the roundabout. Turn
right onto Avenue Roger Salengro.
marshland is home to plants and
animals that are both fragile and precious.
Your itinerary continues between the estuary
and the garrigue scrubland of the La Fare hills.
At kilometer 20, follow the signs and take D21b
toward Berre. The road runs along the estuary,
through a plain planted with crops and dense
rose gardens. After 3 kilometers, a road to the
right (directly in front of the Fouré-Lagadec
buildings) will take you to a beach, the Plage de
Champigny, with its palm trees, pleasure boats,
bistros, and views of Saint-Chamas. This is the
perfect spot for a swim in the Étang de Berre
estuary. After the hamlet of Mauran, you’ll see a
succession of vineyards, farmlands, and prairies,
then you’ll enter Berre. Go straight at the first
roundabout, then follow the signs for the city
center at the next intersection. At the second
roundabout, follow the signs for the Tourist
Bureau. From the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville, turn
left and follow the
Avenue du 8 Mai
1945 until you
reach a parking
area.
ng
BERRE l’éta
BEACHES AND BOATING
> The industrial prominence of Berre l’Étang is part of its recent history. In fact,
its shores have been occupied since the Neolithic Era, as indicated by traces of
a settlement near the Champigny beach. From the 11th century on, Berre was
considered a highly desirable location. Today it owes its appeal to several
hectares of vineyards and garden farms, 15 kilometers of well-preserved
coastline, a way of life rich in traditions and festivities, and its inhabitants'
shared penchant for floral decorations.
Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Caderot
> Situated at Berre's entrance via D21 and close to the cemetery, this chapel is the
city's second oldest monument. Built in the 2nd century on the foundations of a pagan
temple, it was already documented by the 3rd century. In 1591, during the religious
wars, it was partially destroyed by the Italians. In the 17th century, an identical chapel
was rebuilt, with no change in the blueprints aside from the roof, originally made of flat
stones. The chapel was used during pilgrimages until the middle of the 19th century.
It is 32 meters long and contains a magnificent raised altar in the Renaissance style
dating from 1507, with a statue of the Virgin Mary in Carrara marble, a tabernacle, and
sculptured stalls. According to legend, in 1325, a majestic bull swam across the Étang
de Berre, climbed out of the water, and stopped at the foot of a juniper shrub, known as
a "cade" in the Provençal language. Certain peasants followed the bull to the shrub
and found an urn containing writings, a lock of hair, and a crystal vase filled with milk
from the Virgin Mary. Struck by this sign, the peasants built an oratory on the spot,
which would eventually become the famous Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Caderot.
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Km 35. Rognac, boulevard Frédéric Mistral
Walking paths
> The Étang de Berre is surrounded by a highly diverse
landscape that links to most of the region's hills and
mountains. A vast network of walking paths extends
along its shores. One of them, 8.8 kilometers long
and inaugurated in 2012, is accessible all year-round
and enables walkers to explore the estuary.
This path begins at the wine cooperative
("cave cooperative") in Berre l’Étang,
then leads to the mouth of the Arc
River via the shores of the estuary. It
returns to its starting point along the
Arc. In the medium term, this path will
be part of various initiatives around the
estuary enabling walkers to discover
local flora and fauna.
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Exit the parking area and stay right at the junction. You’ll see the Parc Henri Fabre to the
right a little further on. At the roundabout, as you head toward Rognac via D21, you’ll notice
Berre’s huge petrochemical complex, the largest in Europe (for a tour, contact the Tourist
Bureau). The eastern part of the estuary, the Étang de Vaïne, will be on your right,
and when you reach Rognac, you’ll see the Marais de la Tête Noire, a vast and well-preserved
marshland (17 hectares). From here, two routes are possible: either turn right on D113 and
follow the Étang de Vaïne until the Rognac marina, or continue straight on toward a vast
plateau with limestone cliffs. If you go straight, you’ll
leave D21 on the right and head toward the center of
Rognac. As you leave D21,
take an immediate left and pass under the railroad
tracks. Take another left onto Boulevard Frédéric
Mistral. From there, you can either take the second road
on your right (Boulevard Aristide Briand) to explore
Rognac (church, cultural center, dovecote, oratory) or
continue straight on toward the plateau.
Rognac
FROM SHORELINE TO HILLTOP
> Surrounded by contrasts, the
inhabitants of the Rognac area have
adopted various ways of life over time.
Fishers and hunters occupied the shores
of the estuary 5000 years ago. Later,
Ligurians established a village on the
plain and a refuge on the plateau. The
Romans also had several domains,
and around 1000 there was a feudal
castle and its village. In the 15th century,
hamlets dotted the fertile land along
the estuary, eventually giving rise to the
current city. Today Rognac is a dynamic
community that extends from the
estuary to the hills.
Etang de
Berre
Plateau de Rognac: a giant panorama
> There are parking areas at every level of the plateau.
On the first level, vineyards alternate with fields of olive
trees. Although devastated by fires in 2004, the forest is
gradually growing back. You can take a path to the foot
of the Rognac Cross that overlooks the city.
On the second level you’ll find the most beautiful view
along this route. It includes the Étang de Berre, of
course, but also Mont Ventoux to the northwest, the La
Fare hills, and the La Nerthe limestone formations to
the south. The contrast between the urban shoreline
and the tranquil wilderness of the heights is striking.
Welcome to the Plateau de l’Arbois.
The recently inaugurated GR2013 hiking path crosses
this magnificent site on its way to the TGV train station
to the east. This location marks the starting point, or an
intermediary point for many pedestrian or cycling paths
through the hills, where the Rognac Cascade awaits you.
The Massif de l’Arbois is vast area covering 2000
hectares where a rich variety of plants and animals
are protected and preserved, notably Bonelli’s eagle,
emblematic and rare.
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Return to Boulevard F. Mistral and turn right onto
Avenue Gustave Courbet. At the first roundabout go
right; at the second, continue straight on toward Velaux.
The road runs along the plateau through fields of olive
trees.
You’ll soon see the long facade of Velaux, extending
across the hill with its tower standing above it.
You’ll come to a roundabout with a sign for Velaux to
the right, a few meters before the olive oil cooperative,
which is open to the public.
Km 54. Velaux, place François Caire
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Velaux
HILLTOP STROLL
Velaux olive oil, for discerning
palates
> The most recent of the
village's three oil mills is one of
the rare facilities in Provence
to still use granite millstones
and presses. The harvest from
some 1000 olive growers makes
it possible to produce a wide
selection of traditional oils each
year. You'll find organic oils, oils
with the Aix-en-Provence
certified-origin label, as well as
various traditional specialties
from local artisans.
Coopérative oléicole de Velaux
• Tél. 04 42 46 31 07
• www.moulindevelaux.com
> Walk through Velaux along
the "Itinéraire des Flâneries"
and discover its many heritage
sites, including a church,
Église Saint-Trophime, a
bell tower, the Plateau de La
Palun, and the 19th century
town hall. In the 1980s,
the 14th century tower that
dominates the old historic
district became the city's first
museum. Its collections are
dedicated to the history of
Velaux and its archeological
sites, including Roquepertuse.
From the city's terraces, you'll
have an excellent view of
the Étang de Berre and the
surrounding countryside. At
the Moulin Seigneurial, a
former oil mill converted into
a museum, you'll find fossils of
Atsinganosaurus velauciensis.
The only specimen of this
Late Cretaceous dinosaur was
discovered in Velaux.
ON TO
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
The road gently climbs to the
village. Along the way, you’ll see
a few vineyards and planted fields
in the foothills. After the cemetery,
go straight at the first intersection,
then left at the second. Continue
along Avenue de la République
until the parking area at Place
Jean-Baptiste Comte, or at Place
Bon Puits, or until you reach Place
François Caire.
THE
NEXT STOP
From the historic district, leave Place
François Caire on your left and drive down
Avenue de la Gare. Follow the signs for
Coudoux at the fork. At the four towers,
take the avenue on the right. Just before
you cross the railroad tracks, take the
little road to the right and drive to the sign
for the Roquepertuse site. Take the path
from the parking area, along the forest.
The site is a few hundred meters further
on, to the left.
Etang de
Berre
Moulin à huile de la Fare :
three centuries and counting
> Located in an attractive country house, the La Faire oil
mill is the region's oldest still in operation. Completed
in 1710, it withstood hard times and bad weather,
becoming a cooperative in 1925. Under the arched
ceiling of the boutique, you'll find products from the
nearby olive groves : Aix-en-Provence certified-origin
oils, a traditional blend of four varieties, and singlevarietal oils (Aglandau, Picholine, Salonenque).
Oppidum of Roquepertuse :
across millennia
Moulin à huile de la Fare
• Tél. 04 90 57 65 07
• www.lemoulindelafare.fr
> Set against a plateau of almond trees, overlooking
the Arc River valley, this designated historic monument
reveals traces of occupation dating back to the Neolithic
Era, as well as two periods of village life, in the 5th and
3rd centuries BC, when a Celto-Ligurian settlement
covered more than 5000 m² of the site. The discovery of
several sculpted items from this period has given the site
international standing. Explicative panels are installed
among the vestiges to enrich your understanding. The
destruction of the settlement around 200 BC remains
a mystery.
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Return to where the road crosses
the railroad tracks and take D20 on
the other side, toward La Fare les
Oliviers. Go left at the roundabout. To
the right, you’ll have a pretty view of
the La Fare hills, while on the left you
can still see the foothills of Velaux.
As you approach La Fare les Oliviers,
around kilometer 65, you’ll see a sign
indicating the oil mill on the left.
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Return to the main avenue and drive until
reaching Cours Charles Galland. Park in the
center of La Fare les Oliviers.
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ON TO
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Km 67. La Fare les Oliviers, cours Charles Galland
Oliviers
La Fare les
OIL COUNTRY
> The Romans were the first known inhabitants of the La Fare plain. In the
Middle Ages, the population moved to the heights and settled around
the castle. Its ruins, which you can still visit today, are spread over three
levels around a outcropping of rock above the village. Under the Forbin
family, which came to power in the 14th century, the villagers irrigated and
cultivated the land, and La Fare enjoyed a degree of prosperity from its
vineyards, its garden farming, its grains and, of course, its olive trees. For
many years, agriculture was its main source of wealth. Today, La Fare is a
village in a spacious natural setting that features the like-named hills.
You can hike, mountain bike, go rock climbing, or even try orienteering.
NEXT STOP
Take La Fare’s main avenue. At the roundabout
leaving the village, take D10 toward Saint-Chamas.
The road travels through the agricultural heartland
of Lançon-Provence. You’ll see various wine estates
(Château-Virant, then Château Calissanne and
Domaine de Suriane closer to Saint-Chamas) as well
as greenhouses and olive groves. You can
make an appointment to visit any of these
producers (further information at the Lançon
Tourist Bureau) and/or buy their products
directly. Around kilometer 70, a fork to the
right leads to Lançon. It climbs into hills
surrounded by a flat garrigue scrubland
dotted with kermes oaks and rosemary
shrubs.
You’ll notice only a scattering of rocks
here and there until reaching the Rocher
de Château-Virant, an impressive rock
formation on your left.
There is a parking area where you can enjoy
a marvelous panorama, the last one on this scenic
route. Gaze at the Étang de Berre one last time, and
beyond it, to the southeast, at Montagne SainteVictoire. Now it’s time to head back down to Lançon.
Wine cooperative
> Here you'll find affordable wines of very
good quality (17 medal-winners in 2014). The
cooperative's construction in 1929 marked
a turning point in the village's agricultural
activities. Initiated by the cold winter that
same year and confirmed by similar conditions
in 1956, the olive groves were gradually
replaced by vineyards. The cooperative
produces nearly 15,000 hectoliters
of wine each year.
Cave coopérative
• 04 90 42 61 47
• www.vignerons-castellas.fr
At kilometer 75, you’ve arrived. Cross the national
highway (notice, on your left, Chapelle Saint-Cyr, a
treasure trove of Romanesque art). Take the little
road parallel to the highway until you reach the
impressive wine cooperative of Lançon.
Route des Collines Salonaises
Charm and Adventure - The Costes Hills
ITINER
ARY 3
The Collines Salonaises Route will lead
you from islands of garrigue to the
cultivated valleys of the Costes hills, with
a lovely finish that descends into the
Val de Cuech forest and on to Salon-deProvence. You’ll see olive trees, evergreen
oaks, Aleppo pines, and junipers along
the way, all part of a varied and beautiful
landscape.
This is Provence as you’ve always hoped
to find it, the familiar images along with
real surprises as you discover its villages,
historical sites, regional specialties,
artists, artisans, and its diversity of natural
settings.
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D1
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ALLEINS
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D2
D2
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CAZAN
D22b
D6
8
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D16
A7
AURONS
D22
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SALON-DE-PROVENCE
PÉLISANNE
D22a
G THE WAY
> ROUTE AND STOPS ALON
VERNÈGUES
LA BARBEN
D572
Km 0. Pélissanne, parc Roux-de-Brignoles,
in front of the Tourist Bureau
PeLISSANNE
HISTORICAL CROSSROADS
> Vestiges of the village's first inhabitants were
discovered at the archeological site near the Chapelle
Saint-Laurent-de-Cabardel and date back to prehistoric
times (around 4000 BC). In Roman times,
Pélissanne became a crossroads of commercial
exchange. The Via Aurelia and other roads (the
intentionally rutted Voie des Côtes and Voie de
Redourtière) linked it to major Roman cities; some
sections of these roads are still visible today. The
16th century brought agricultural progress with the
construction of the Canal de Craponne. Pélissanne
prospered beyond its fortifications. The 15th century
ramparts, which give the village center its circular
shape, were absorbed into mansions built later on.
c Roux-deStaring point: Pélissanne, Par
Brignoles
e, Cours Gimon
End point: Salon-de-Provenc
Estimated distance: 42 km
• D22a to La Barben
Vernègues
• D22 via Cazan and D22b to
ins
Alle
to
D16
and
d
D22
b,
• D22
• D16 and D68 to Aurons
rovence
• D68 and D16 to Salon-de-P
alonaises
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From era to era
> Your journey begins with a stroll in old
Pélissanne. The facades are often marked by
architectural styles of different periods: 16th,
17th, and 18th centuries on Place Cabardel,
for example, next to the bell tower.
Renaissance style houses and a number
of well-preserved mansions will catch your
eye, as well as the Fontaine du Pélican
(designated historic monument built in
1769), the wash house, the church rectory
with its 17th century entrance,
a neoclassical church, the Église SaintMaurice, and the Chapelle des Pénitents
Gris.
QUICK PICKS
> Pélissanne’s Market
Visit this market on Sundays, when
the streets of the village fill with
local and organic producers as
well as artists and artisans.
From the moulin Jean Bertrand
to the moulin des costes
> Up to the 19th century, there was intense milling
activity on the Canal de Craponne and the neighboring
Touloubre River. Though recently built, the Moulin des
Costes stands next to the cross vaults of the Moulin Jean
Bertrand, which included a flour mill built in 1775 and an
oil mill built in 1786. Both the old and new facilities can
be visited on request. Moulin des Costes oil has won the
most medals of any French olive
oil, recognized numerous times
during the prestigious Concours
Général Agricole competition. In
the boutique you'll find an Aix-enProvence certified-origin oil with
green fruity notes, a "Tradition"
oil with black fruity notes, as well
as a single-varietal oil.
Moulin des Costes
• Tél. 04 90 55 30 00
• www.moulindescostes.com
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Leave the Parc Roux-de-Brignoles,
go back up Boulevard Gambetta
and turn left on Avenue du Général
de Gaulle. At the roundabout, go
straight toward La Barben. With
hedges at regular intervals and a
canopy of plane trees, the road
passes by a series of residential
hamlets. After 2 kilometers, you’ll
see La Barben.
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Château de La Barben
• Tél. 04 90 55 25 41
• [email protected]
• www.chateau-de-la-barben.fr
• Tours by guides in period dress,
educational games for children.
• Theme-based events
and activities.
• Bed and breakfast
accommodations.
Km 2. La Barben, place Jean Moulin
La BarIben
NATURAL MAJESTY
> La Barben is situated on the banks of the Touloubre
River. A calm and densely wooded village, it comes
to life each week with its market. Its history is forever
linked to the castle that has stood watch from a rocky
outcropping, 2 kilometers to the east, for the last
thousand years.
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Turn right toward the castle and
the zoological park. After a few
villas, the countryside comes
into view; vineyards, orchards,
and olive trees carpet the hills.
After a cluster of trees the castle
appears, seeming to float above
the immense plane trees, which
include in their midst a giant
sequoia.
Château de La Barben :
a historic jewel
> Initially a medieval fortress for King René of Anjou
and the Marquis de Forbin, the castle became a simple
residence in the 17th century. As a result, you'll find
austere fortifications as well as the classical elegance
of Enlightenment restorations. There are a total of 60
rooms (15 included on the tour) with period furnishings
and decor: Aubusson tapestries, Frenchstyle coffered ceilings, ornate plasterwork,
painted canvases, and "Cuir de Cordou"
which refers to painted and gilded
leather hangings. The famous landscape
architect André Le Nôtre was a friend
of the Forbin family and designed the
magnificent French-style gardens at
the base of the castle. From the main
terrace, you'll have a gorgeous view
of the verdant Vallon Maurel (a valley
accessible for hiking and biking from
the castle's parking area), and beyond
that, the Étang de Berre.
alonaises
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ON TO
THE
Animals from around the world
> Not far from the castle, the largest zoo in the PACA region serves
as a showcase for 400 animals along 9 kilometers of paths in a lush
33-hectare park. The focus is on biodiversity, and a number
of educational activities are available.
Parc animalier
• Tél. 04 90 55 19 12
• www.zoolabarben.com
• Site includes playgrounds and
picnic areas, restaurants, shops,
and more.
NEXT STOP
Leave by the castle road. Turn immediately onto
D22, toward the Route de la Source.
A few farmhouses keep watch over the vineyards
at the base of the hills. Around kilometer 7,
look out for the Source d’Adane, a spring that the
Romans drank from, but that remains a mystery
to this day. It never runs dry and no one knows
its origin. At D15, turn left, then take the first right
toward Cazan. The gentle Costes hills roll along
the horizon. The road soon rises into them,
surrounded by garrigue scrubland, olive groves,
and limestone outcroppings.
Beyond a curve you’ll see the vineyards of the
Château Bas wine estate, surrounded by scrub.
After a final hill, follow the sign at kilometer
12 indicating Cazan. The road descends into
vineyards and then reveals a splendid view of the
Luberon range and the TGV railroad viaduct.
At kilometer 14 you’ll pass the Château Bas wine
cellar, which offers guided wine-tasting and tours
of the property. The wine cellar conceals the ruins
of a Roman temple, indicating a city existed at
this spot around 20-30 BC. Just beyond Château
Bas, turn left into the hamlet of Cazan, then left
again toward Vernègues via D22b. A third left and
you’ll begin the climb to Vernègues. On your right
is the richly decorated Chapelle Saint-Symphorien
(ex-voto offerings and secular paintings). At
kilometer 18, the castle of Vernègues suddenly
surges up from behind the forest and fields.
The road snakes along the traditional dry stone
walls and into the village.
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Old Vernègues :
remains of a quake
Km 19. Vernègues, rue de la Transhumance
VERNeGUES
DISTANT BEGINNINGS
> The Plateau du Grand Puech overlooking the village has seen
human comings and goings in Vernègues for more than 7000 years.
After the first occupants in the Neolithic and Iron Eras, settlers in
Roman times went down to cultivate the Cazan valley (as evidenced
by the remains around Château Bas). In the Middle Ages, they
returned to the heights to escape invasions. A military fort built in the
8th century was the precursor for the fortified castle of Vernègues,
built between the 10th and 15th centuries. A village took
shape within its walls. On June 11, 1909, the site was
almost entirely destroyed by a violent earthquake that
shook Provence. The new village was built below
the ruins.
Randonnées Topo 13
• Chaîne des Côtes - Vernègues,
balade autour du village
Document available on the Tourist office
or on www.visitprovence.com
> From the parking area, walk to the plateau. A
wide stretch of heathland offers a panoramic
view that you can admire from an orientation
table at the old Vernègues mill site. To the
east: Montagne Sainte-Victoire. To the south:
the Étang de Berre estuary. To the west: the
Alpilles range. And to the north: the Luberon
range.
There's a 2-kilometer walk around the ruins
of the village, Église Saint-Jacques, and
the feudal castle. The plateau also features
an almond tree half a millennium old, and
a paleochristian cave-necropolis to the
northwest.
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New Vernègues :
creativity and craft
> The village rises in terraces from the base
of the plateau, offering high views of the
Provençal countryside and the Durance
valley. As you make your way, you'll see
boutiques, workshops, and galleries
showcasing the work of a potter, a painter,
sculptors, an ironworker, a maker of
traditional figurines known as "santons,"
and a goat-cheese maker. New Vernègues,
already 100 years old, also boasts heritage
sites, such as the Naud wash house, built
around a medieval fountain, and a church,
Église Notre-Dame-de-Lourdes. The village
is also a starting point for hiking trails.
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
In the village, continue on D22b
toward Alleins, then turn right
on D22d. The road takes you
along the western point of the
plateau, which is supported by
traditional dry stone walls. At
the crossroads, turn right, still
going toward Alleins. On your
left you’ll notice the Chapelle
Saint-Jean, dating from the 12th century and typical of the Romanesque
style in Provence. The road around the plateau runs below a forested
slope, then along a cultivated embankment, and finally down the Route du
Calvaire, a series of tight hairpin turns marked with crosses. The Petit
Luberon is clearly visible during the descent. As you move toward the
Durance plain amidst the rows of noble pines, 14 stopping points offer
views of Alleins below. Parking is available at the entrance to the village, in
front of the church on the right.
Km 25. Alleins, place de l’église
Alleins
SOURCE OF HISTORY
> Alleins owes its existence to the
"Grand Fount," a spring that has
attracted generations of visitors and
inhabitants since the Neolithic
Era. Romans at war with the
Teutons set up a military fort in
the vicinity. In the 10th century,
a primitive castle was built
and the village established.
Irrigation of farmland by the
Canal de Craponne, which still
flows along the northern edge
of Alleins, enabled it to grow
and prosper.
The oldest streets are very well
preserved and abound with
architectural elements from the 13th to
18th centuries: doors and gates, arches
and mullioned windows, facades,
corner towers, ramparts, etc.
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Gateway to the old village
> Situated at Alleins’ main entrance in the 16th
century, the bell tower is the most monumental
vestige of the ramparts, which extended at that
time from the current church to the Chapelle
des Pénitents. The portcullis and machicolation
are original, whereas the tower was added in
the 17th and 18th centuries. The sculptured frieze
fragments around the arched entryway (garlands,
cherubs, and drama masks) were taken from
a Gallo-Roman mausoleum.
The castle, eloquent ruins
> After passing under the bell tower, head
toward the castle in the center of the village.
Rebuilt at the end of the 15th century, it
was occupied by the Renaud family then
dismantled during the Revolution. These
extensive ruins will take you back to the dawn
of the Renaissance: esplanade, monumental
portal, courtyard, tower with its staircase, living
quarters including several rooms, ramparts, etc.
ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Leave by way of the Route du Calvaire and head
toward Aurons on D16. The road climbs into
the forest, with the agricultural plateau of
Sonnailler to the right, where walkers can enjoy
a Tuscan atmosphere among the vineyards and
farmlands. Around kilometer 30, you’ll see the
entrance to the Château du Petit Sonnailler. With
its vast 10th century manor, this wine estate offers
elegant lodgings and expressive wines. Two
kilometers further on, you’ll arrive at the Plateau
du Farigoulet, where the countryside takes on
a more mountainous feel. Stop at the parking
area on the left to admire the rolling panorama
between hills and valleys (departure point for
hiking trails). Take the road off to the left leading
to Aurons. You’ll be surrounded by pines and
oaks as you approach the village. Once there,
the main road will lead you to a big plane tree.
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Km 32. Aurons, place Louis Étienne
A concentrate of Provence
> In the picturesque heart of the village,
the town hall, wash house, and church
are all set around an immense plane
tree with four main boughs. The tree
will turn 200 years old in 2020. Stroll
through the surrounding web of little
streets and discover Aurons' charming houses with their
floral decorations, stonework, and Génoise eave tiles. You
can climb to the top of the rocky outcropping to visit Notre
Dame d’Aurons, a virgin with child sculpted from Oppède
stone. From there, enjoy the magnificent view of the
surrounding hills and, further afield, the Salon plain. Under the
outcropping, the Castellas grottos await you. These dwelling
caves, the only trace of the primitive castle, are today used for
expositions and special events.
Aurons
ABOVE VAL DE CUECH
> Eleven centuries old, Aurons was inhabited during
prehistoric times and later became a Roman camp.
Much of its history coincides with that of the Château
du Castellas, now in ruins. Built in the 10th century,
the castle had a number of owners —from the
Counts of Provence to the Cordoue family—
and two locations: atop the hill until the wars of
religion, then below the village, where only two
towers and a colonnade remain.
Hike from plateau
to plateau
> The village center is the starting
point for a 3h30 loop linking the
Plateau du Farigoulet to the Plateau
du Sonnailler. You'll see pines, oak
trees, juniper and gorse shrubs,
vineyards, garden farms, and
medieval farmhouses, and you'll
pass the Romanesque Chapelle
de Saint-Martin-du-Sonnailler (13th
century).
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ON TO
THE
NEXT STOP
Go back to D16 and turn left toward
Salon-de-Provence.
The road cuts across the plateau.
At kilometer 36, it descends into the
Val de Cuech forest, a thick stand of
oak, ash, hackberry, and pine with
cliffs rising overhead.
Km 42. Salon-de-Provence, cours Gimon
Salon-de-Pr
ovence
THE ART OF GOOD LIVING
You’ll drive through Tallagard,
a hiker’s paradise that combines
traditional dry stone structures, pine
and olive groves, garrigue scrubland,
gorse bushes, cliffs and cultivated
fields… Houses become more frequent,
then the first buildings of Salon-deProvence appear. Cross the canal, turn
right at the roundabout, and follow the
signs for the historic city center. You’ll
see the statue of Adam de Craponne
in front of the town hall. Turn left on
Cours Gimon (pass the Tourist Bureau
and continue a few dozen meters to the
Emperi underground parking garage).
The end of the road? Not quite…
Welcome to Salon-de-Provence!
> The first known mention of Salon in writing,
from 871, states that it was founded at the
site of a Carolingian farm. A century later, the
Château de l’Emperi was built on the rocky
Roche de Puech above the new settlement,
which was surrounded by ramparts in the
13th century. During the Renaissance, Adam
de Craponne designed and built the canal
to bring much-needed water to Salon from
the Durance River. In the middle of the
16th century, irrigation of the city and the
neighboring Crau plane marked an era of
economic development, leading Salon
to grow beyond its ramparts in the
17th century. At the end of the 19th/
beginning of the 20th century, the
soap-making industry expanded
rapidly. In 1918, the city of Salon-deCrau became Salon-de-Provence.
As the century progressed, it
became one of the most attractive
locations in the department, while
continuing to define the art of good
living in its own way.
Old city center:
atmosphere and
history
> The Place des Centuries offers
walkers a rich display of the city's
heritage, surrounded by lively
pedestrian streets and shaded
terraces. You'll see numerous
fountains (the most famous is
Fontaine Moussue from the
end of the 1700s), medieval and
Renaissance monuments (Église
Saint-Michel, Collégiale SaintLaurent, Tour du Bourg Neuf, Tour
de Galagaspe, Tour de l’Horloge,
Hôtel de Ville), and impressive
statues.
• Guided Visits
More information at the
Tourist Bureau.
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La maison de Nostradamus :
a visionary's final years
> Michel de Nostredame spent the end of his
life in Salon-de-Provence, from 1547 to 1566.
The house where this apothecary and reputed
seer wrote Les Propheties is today a museum.
There you'll learn more about this brilliant and
enigmatic Renaissance scholar, who counted
kings among his friends and was committed to
sharing knowledge (audio-guided tour).
Château de l'Empéri :
a collection of 10,000 objects
> This is one of the oldest fortresses in Provence
and a remarkable example of castle architecture
from the 13th to 16th century. The residence of the
archbishops of Arles until the Renaissance, it become
public property during the French Revolution and
a barracks in the 1800s. Today it's a museum of art
and of French
military history,
with a world-class
collection.
Musée Grévin:
a showcase for Provence
> Dedicated to the history and
legends of Provence, from GalloRoman times to the current day, this
museum consists of 16 sophisticated
displays complete with lighting,
sound effects, scents, and recorded
commentary. Discover the arrival of
the three Marys in Camargue, the
Cours d’Aix as it looked in the 13th
century, Adam de Craponne in 1559
when the canal was completed,
and more.
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Traditional soap
makers
> In the 19th century, Salon-deProvence took advantage of olive
growing, mechanization, and the
arrival of rail to become one of the
main regional centers for the oil and
soap trade. The handsome mansions
built in Salon-de-Provence by a rich
industrial bourgeoisie can still be
seen today. You can also visit the
production facilities and museumboutiques of two traditional soap
makers that have been in business
for over a century.
An ideal place for grazing
Savonnerie Rampal-Latour
• Tél. 04 90 56 07 28
• www.rampalpatou.com
Savonnerie Marius Fabre
• Tél. 04 90 53 82 75
• www.marius-fabre.fr
QUICK PICKS
A Packed Program
There are numerous festivals,
performances, concerts, and
celebrations throughout the year in
Salon-de-Provence, which has many
high-quality venues such as the
main courtyard of the Château de
l’Emperi, the café & music bar
Portail Coucou, Théâtre Armand,
the jazz school, and the IMFP
music school.
In 18,000 BC, the Durance ran through what is now
the Plaine de la Crau. The river changed course with
successive geological modifications, leaving only a
steppe scattered with stones. By creating his canal,
the engineer Adam de Craponne brought the
waters of the Durance back to the
plain. The countryside became a
dense, fertile prairie, framed by
high hedges of cypress and ash. A
system invented in the 16th century
is still used to irrigate the hayfields.
In winter, sheep graze the land. The
only herding school in France, the
Domaine du Merle, is located on
this plain as well as the Maison de
la Transhumance.
An ideal place
for hiking
Salon-de-Provence is also
a center of recreational
activities. You can enjoy aerial
adventure courses, gliding,
karting, race car driving, bike
tours, hiking in the Massif du
Tallagard, and other forms of
outdoor fun. In addition, the
famous GR2013 hiking path
passes through the city.
A Region to Experience
Tourist Bureaus to Prepare Your Itineraries
Office de tourisme de Charleval
2, place André Leblanc
Tél. 04 42 28 45 30
Office de tourisme de Berre l’Étang
Avenue Roger Salengro
Tél. 04 42 85 01 70
Service Communication de Rognac
Hôtel de ville, 21 avenue Charles De Gaulle
Tél. 04 42 87 76 19
Office de tourisme d’Eyguières
Place de l’ancien hôtel de ville
Tél. 04 90 59 82 44
Service Communication de La Fare les Oliviers
Hôtel de ville, Place Camille Pelletan
Tél. 04 90 45 46 00
Office de tourisme de Saint-Chamas
17, rue du 4 septembre
Tél. 04 90 50 90 54
[email protected]
www.lafarelesoliviers.fr
[email protected]
www.saintchamas.com
Mairie de Lamanon
Hotel de ville
Tél. 04 90 59 54 62
Office de tourisme de Lançon-Provence
Square Vogogna, avenue Saint-Cyr
Tél. 04 90 45 71 32
Service Patrimoine de la ville de Velaux
Hôtel de ville, Place de Verdun
Tél. 04 42 87 73 59
Office de tourisme de Mallemort
7, avenue des Frères Roqueplan
Tél. 04 90 57 41 62
Office de tourisme du Massif des Costes
[email protected]
www.charleval-en-provence.org
[email protected]
www.tourisme-eyguieres.com
[email protected]
www.mallemortdeprovence.com
Office de tourisme de Sénas
28, cours Jean Jaurès
Tél. 04 90 59 20 25
[email protected]
www.ville-de-senas.fr
[email protected]
www.tourisme-berreletang.fr
[email protected]
www.lancon-provence-tourisme.com
[email protected]
www.mairie-rognac.fr
www.velaux.fr
(Alleins, Aurons, La Barben, Pélissanne, Vernègues)
Parc Roux de Brignoles à Pélissanne
Tél. 04 90 55 15 55
[email protected]
www.ot-massifdescostes.com
Office de tourisme de Salon-de-Provence
56, cours Gimon - Tél. 04 90 56 27 60
[email protected]
www.visitsalondeprovence.com
Application MOBITOUR Salon-de-Provence
w w w . v i s i t p r o v e n c e . c o m
For information on upcoming events and
activities, visit our website
www.agglopole-provence.fr
Alleins•Aurons•La Barben•Berre l’Etang•Charleval•Eyguières
La Fare les Oliviers•Lamanon•Lançon-Provence•Mallemort•Pélissanne
Rognac•Saint-Chamas•Salon-de-Provence•Sénas•Velaux•Vernègues
Crédit photos : Agglopole Provence : JN. Lanthiez, CDT13 : D. MARCHE, C. DURANTI, G. MARTIN-RAGET, S. FRAISSARD,
C. FASSANARO, D. GORGEON, A. BARROIL, J. DEMEURS, F. FERREIRA, JC. GESQUIERE, J. GUILLARD, F. JOLIOT, J. NICOLAS,
Ville de Rognac, OT Salon Eric FABRER, Stratis, x.
Our
stratis (stratis.fr) • 12/14
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