IWC Schaffhausen I Portofino Collection
Transcription
IWC Schaffhausen I Portofino Collection
5 6 I South Africa Deluxe I TIMEPIECES wa tc h es I 57 IWC Schaffhausen The Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date The former fishing village of Portofino on the Gulf of Tigullio, near Genoa in Italy has for decades been a desirable destination for the international rich and famous. Drawing well-known actors, artists and people in the fashion industry, from all over the world, the village’s narrow little houses in red and terracotta clustered tightly around the picturesque natural harbour provide the perfect backdrop for stars and celebrities. Offering celebrities and jet-setters a relaxed and laid-back southernEuropean lifestyle, this Mediterranean local is the inspiration behind the classically elegant Portofino watch family, who launched in the late 1970s, beginning with the elegant IWC Lépine open-face pocket watch (Reference 5201). This emblematic timepiece’s dial was turned through 90 degrees and equipped with a moon phase display. The new “pocket-watch style wristwatch” (Reference 5251), which was unveiled in 1984, went by the name “Portofino”, and since then, the Portofino collection has become one of IWC’s most successful watch families: an expression of understatement and good taste. Photos: © IWC Schaffhausen Portofino Collection newest release The latest edition to the Portofino family, the Portofino HandWound Day & Date, combines functionality with elegant, clear-cut design. The dial features an impressive number of easy to read indicators, with a large date, day and power reserve display, as well as a small seconds hand at six o’clock. The overall appeal is both aesthetically pleasing and useful. At 12 o’clock there are two precisely synchronised discs that show the date, the first taking care of the tens (0-3), and the second revealing the numbers single digits (0-9). Ensuring the perfect synchronization, between the two discs is the IWC-manufactured 59220 calibre. Connected directly to the date advance mechanism is an additional display, which shows the actual day of the week. Two elastic advance fingers superimposed, one on top of the other, tap off energy from the barrel throughout the day. By midnight, they have built up enough power, first, to advance the date, and second, to move a seven-toothed star wheel that causes the hand to jump to the next day of the week. Fully wound, the eight-day movement keeps running precisely for 192 hours, with no need for any intervention. The power reserve display on the dial indicates when it is time for the owner to replenish its power reserve by winding the crown. The modern watch movement design, featuring large bridges with Geneva stripes and circular-grained plates is visible through the sapphire-glass back. The Portofino Hand-Wound Day & Date is available in stainless steel (Ref. IW516201) and red gold (IW516203). The stainless steel version features a silver-plated dial, rhodium-plated hands and indices, and a black leather strap from Santoni (the worldfamous Italian shoemaker that produces high-quality leather straps exclusively for IWC Schaffhausen). The red gold version features a slate-coloured dial, gold-plated hands, and 18 karat red gold indices, together with a brown leather strap also from Santoni. The Portofino collection has become one of IWC’s most successful watch families: an expression of understatement and good taste. 5 8 I South Africa Deluxe I TIMEPIECES wa tc h es I 59 The Portofino Hand-Wound Monopusher The moon phase display is integral to the Portofino watch family’s identity, like the Roman numerals, feuille hands and convex front glass. In 1984, the original Portofino itself was equipped with a moon phase display, and the model was produced unchanged in very small series until the late 1990s. When IWC Schaffhausen extended the Portofino watch family in 2014, they included a number of models in 37-millimetre cases, appealing to watch lovers who prefer a timepiece with slightly smaller dimensions. In addition, they also reinstated the moon phase display complication in the collection. This year, following on from the 2014 diamond-set models, comes a beautiful, purist-inspired timepiece devoid of diamonds on the case, whose meticulously polished, mirror-finished surface has a special luxury and elegance all of its own. The collection also welcomes another two beautiful watches with diamond-set bezels, the first featuring a blue dial and blue leather strap and the second featuring a silver-plated dial and raspberry-coloured leather strap. The design of the moon phase display on the dial of the Portofino Automatic Moon Phase 37 (Ref. IW459007), is classic: the moon itself rises and sets behind a foreground of clouds. The softly shimmering mother-of-pearl dial, with its 12 diamonds creates an attractive sensation of depth and underscores the clear design of the dial. The elegant timepiece is water-resistant to 3 bar, and is powered by the 35800 calibre mechanical automatic movement. The moon phase shown in the display can be set to “2 o’clock” using a correction button. The central seconds hand is stopped using the crown, and the sapphire glass has an antireflective coating on both sides. The watch is secured to the wearer’s wrist by a green alligator leather strap by Santoni. Photos: © IWC Schaffhausen Portofino Automatic Moon Phase 37 With the newest complication in the Portofino collection, IWC Schaffhausen adds a second in-house chronograph to its everpopular stylish and distinctive line. While the most widespread type of chronograph is the classic model, with push-buttons at “2 o’clock” and “4 o’clock”, the Portofino Hand-Wound Monopusher (Ref. IW515103/IW515104) sets itself apart with a further sophisticated technical feature, an ingenious single push-button stopwatch that measures time for up to 60 minutes. The chronograph is started, stopped and reset by repeatedly pressing the single, multifunctional push-button which is integrated in the crown, and at glance is virtually invisible. Despite this additional function, the timepiece remains a simple one and divulges its functionality only when looked at more closely. The sapphire-glass back reveals the newly developed movement in the Hand-Wound Monopusher. Bearing stylish Geneva stripes, the 59360 calibre is an offshoot of the highperforming 59000-movement family with the outstanding feature of a chronograph mechanism built into the movements, making it a worthy addition to IWC’s in-house movements and the range. The owner can look forward to a 192-hour movement, which when fully wound, will run accurately for eight whole days before automatically stopping. The amount of energy remaining is displayed on the power reserve display on the dial between “8 o’clock” and “9 o’clock”. The sub-dial at “12 o’clock” displays the number of minutes recorded by the chronograph, while the seconds can be read off on the central hand. Together with the small-seconds sub-dial at “6 o’clock” and the date display at “3 o’clock” it results in a well-proportioned dial design. The sapphire-glass back exposes an IWC-manufactured movement decorated with Geneva stripes together with the chronograph mechanism. The mechanical single-pusher chronograph movement is hand-wound with an 8-day power reserve when fully wound and features an indexless balance with four gold weight screws on the balance rim, a Breguet spring, a stopwatch function with minutes and seconds, small hacking seconds, a date display and a power reserve display. The 45mm Portofino Hand-Wound Monopusher is available either in white gold with a slate-coloured dial and grey Santoni alligator leather strap (Ref. IW515103) or in an 18 karat red gold version with an attractive silver-plated dial and brown Santoni alligator leather strap (Ref. IW515104.)
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