Jewellery Product Quality Requirements

Transcription

Jewellery Product
Quality Requirements
Issue Date 29/03/99
Version 4.6 : 04/11/2010
QVC
© QVC 2010
CONTENTS
Jewellery Product Quality Requirements
1.1 Visual Inspection
1.2 Lighting
Page.
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2
2. General Manufacturing Guidelines
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3. Marking Requirements
3.1 Required Marks
3.2 Permissible Marks
3.3 Non-permissible Marks
3.4 Application Method: Hallmark and Makersmark
3.5 Appearance of Marks
3.6 Placement and Location of Marks
3.7 Hallmarks for Gold
3.8 Hallmarks for Silver
3.9 Hallmarks for Platinum
3.10 Hallmarks for Palladium
3.11 Hallmarks for Items with Combined Metals
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4. Casting
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5. Assembly
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1. QVC Inspection Methods and Environment
5.1 Soldering
5.2 Glue Assembly
6. Stone Placement and Settings
6.1
6.2
6.3
6.4
6.5
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Stone Placement
Prong Settings
Bezel Settings
Channel Settings
Pave Settings
7. Polishing
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Contents
7.1 Pre-Polishing
7.2 General Requirements
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8. Finishing and Texture Treatments
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8.1
8.2
8.3
8.4
8.5
8.6
General Requirements
High Polished Finish
Matte, Satin, Frosted or Sandblasted Finish
Brushed or Florentine Finish
Oxidation or “Antiquing”
Diamond Cut Finish
9. Plating
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9.2 Plated Findings
10. Findings
10.2 Bolt Ring and Lobster Claw Clasps
10.3 Box Clasp and Hidden Box Clasp
10.4 Figure Eight Safety Catch
10.5 Fold-Over Clasp
10.6 Earring Clutches
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11. Mechanical Working Parts
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12. Chains (Necklaces, Bracelets, Anklets)
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12.2 How to Measure Chains
12.3 Chain Length Tolerances
13. Rings
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13.2 How to Measure Ring Size
13.3 Ring Size Tolerances
14. Gemstones
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14.1 Specifying Gemstone Requirements
14.2 Terminology for Parts of Gemstones
14.3 Gemstone Identification
14.4 Gemstone Clarity
14.5 Gemstone Colour
14.6 Gemstone Cut
14.7 Gemstone Carat Weight
14.8 Gemstone Polishing
14.9 Cultured Pearls and Pearls
14.10 Gemstone Size
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Contents
15. Gram Weight
15.1 Specifying Gram Weight
15.2 Verifying Gram Weight During First Piece Evaluation
15.3 Establishing Gram Weight During QVC Warehouse Receipt Inspection
15.4 Restriction for Reorders
16. Coloured Gold
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16.1 Red (Rose) Gold
16.2 White Gold
16.3 Measuring of Coloured Gold
Appendix A: Product Specification Sheet
Appendix B: Purchase Order
Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration Form
Appendix D: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments
Appendix E: UN-Acceptable Gemstone Treatments
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© QVC 2010
JEWELLERY PRODUCT QUALITY
REQUIREMENTS
This manual is an overview of the minimum quality requirements for jewellery sold by
QVC. Although QVC has produced these guidelines, the standards in this chapter
have been established by our customers who have come to expect an exceptional
level of quality from us.
Our Vendors are ultimately responsible for the quality of their merchandise, and the
following standards are a valuable tool in helping our Vendors meet QVC’s quality
requirements.
1 QVC INSPECTION METHODS AND ENVIRONMENT
This section explains how QVC QA evaluates all finished jewellery items. Vendors
are strongly encouraged to use similar inspection methods and lighting conditions.
1.1 Visual Inspection
A. Unaided-eye inspection
All jewellery and gemstones are inspected with the unaided eye at a “bent elbow”
distance, which is approximately six (6) to twelve (12) inches from the eyes. QVC QA
looks for defects which are detectable without magnification. Vision is assumed to be
20/20, and color vision is also assumed to be normal.
B. Magnification
Although QVC QA Inspectors do not use magnification to detect defects, they may
use a 10X jewelller’s loupe or 2X to 5X glasses to obtain a clearer view of an eyevisible feature or defect such as a hallmark or scratch.
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Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: QVC Inspection Methods and Requirements
1.2 Lighting
QVC QA inspects jewellery under balanced daylight, fluorescent lighting conditions of
approximately 5,000 Kelvin. Because different lighting can have different effects on
the appearance of jewellery, especially gemstone color, QVC strongly recommends
that Vendors use similar lighting when evaluating finished items.
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Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: General Manufacturing Guidelines
2 GENERAL MANUFACTURING GUIDELINES
1) All aspects of an item, including the dimensions, materials, construction, weight,
stone type, features, appearance, performance, etc., must conform to the
specifications written on the following documents:
- Product Specification Sheet (see Appendix A: Product Specification Sheet.)
- Purchase Order (see Appendix B: Purchase Order.)
- Gemstone Declaration (see Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration Form.)
2) Metal must be free of noticeable defects and distortions. Metal must also be
clean, with no residue or water spots.
3) All parts of an item must be symmetrically positioned, balanced and aligned,
unless specified otherwise. Airways and other gallery work must be symmetrical
and equally proportioned.
Incorrect
Correct
Incorrect
Correct
4) All markings, including the hallmark and trademark must be clear, legible and
distinct, and comply with all legal requirements.
5) All findings must be durable, secure, easy to operate, comfortable to wear and free
of noticeable surface defects.
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Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: General Manufacturing Guidelines
6) Gemstones must be free of eye-visible chips and scratches from the crown view.
They must also be properly set and secured.
7) All pieces of the same QVC item number must be identical. The design,
construction and material must be consistent among all pieces and production
runs of a QVC item. Moreover, any finding or mechanical part must also be
identical in design, construction, material and performance among all production
runs.
8) All jewellery must conform to specified weights and measurements.
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Jewellery Product Quality Requirements: Marking Requirements
3 MARKING REQUIREMENTS
3.1 Required Marks
All Precious metal items supplied by UK vendors are required to be Hallmarked by an
approved body in accordance with British Hallmarking Act 1973.
Non-UK vendors should provide their product un-marked as QVC will arrange for the
Hallmarking to take place as required under the above act.
All Diamonique should be marked with “DQ CZ”
3.2 Permissible Marks
The following marks are not required, but are permitted when applicable. However,
they must not appear to be part of any hallmark or makersmark.
- Copyright symbol
- Patent number
3.3 Non-Permissible Marks
The following information must never be permanently or temporarily affixed directly to
any part of a jewellery item sold by QVC, unless specified otherwise:
- Style number
- Serial number
- Finger/ring size
- Dimensions
- Stone carat weight
- Gram weight
- Type of gemstone
3.4 Application Method: Hallmark and Makersmark
The hallmark and makersmark should be permanently affixed directly to the piece.
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3.5 Appearance of Marks
1) All marks on a piece must be legible, clear and distinct. There must be...
- no distorted or missing numbers or letters.
- no double stamping.
- no marks blending into an adjacent mark.
- no overpolishing that blurs the mark or causes it to become faint.
- no extremely shallow or deep marks that are difficult to read.
2) Marks must be clean. There must be no jeweller’s rouge, polishing compound or
any other type of residue within the mark.
3) Marks should be compatible with the overall aesthetics of the piece.
3.6 Placement and Location of Marks
1) Marks should be placed where they can be easily detected, but also hidden or
inconspicuous when the piece is worn, unless the marks are required to be an
integral part of the visible design.
2) Marks should be centred or neatly positioned.
3) The hallmark and makersmark must appear close to each other and be equally
legible, clear and distinct. Whenever the design allows, the hallmark should
appear to the right of the makersmark.
4) For Diamonique® items, whenever the design allows, it is preferred that the
hallmark appear adjacent and to the right of the makersmark.
5) Depending on the type of jewellery, marks should be placed in certain areas on
the piece:
Rings
Marks should be placed high up on the inside of the shank, far from the sizing
area, to enable the ring to be sized without disturbing the mark.
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Sizing area
Incorrect
Correct
Pendants and brooches
Depending on the design of the piece, marks should be placed on the reverse
side of the item or the inside of the bail. For pendant and chain sets, both the
pendant and the chain must bear a makersmark and hallmark.
Earrings
Depending on the design of the piece, marks should be placed on the back of
the item or on the post or clip. For pairs, it is not acceptable to place the
makersmark on one earring and the hallmark on the other; the makersmark
and hallmark must appear next to each other on each individual earring in a
pair.
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Chains
Depending on the design of the piece, marks should be placed on the end
caps near the clasp. A hanging metal plaque or oval plaque permanently
attached to the piece is also acceptable.
3.7 Hallmarks for Gold
It is a legal requirement that all items of gold 1 gram and over sold in the UK must be
tested and hallmarked at a registered Assay office in the UK.
Acceptable Levels of Fineness for Gold
Hallmarks
Alloy Content
Percentage
Parts Per Thousand
37.5% Gold
375 parts per 1000
375
58.5% Gold
585 parts per 1000
585
75% Gold
750 parts per 1000
750
91.6% Gold
916 parts per 1000
916
99% Gold
990 parts per 1000
990
99.9% Gold
999 parts per 1000
999
Note: The above levels of fineness are minimum requirements. There is NO
negative tolerance.
3.8 Hallmarks for Silver
It is a legal requirement that all items of silver 7.78 gram and over sold in the UK must
be tested and hallmarked at a registered Assay office in the UK.
Acceptable Levels of Fineness for Silver
Hallmarks
Alloy Content
Percentage
Parts Per Thousand
80% Silver
800 parts per 1000
800
92.5% Silver
925 parts per 1000
925
95.8% Silver
958 parts per 1000
958
999 parts per 1000
999
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99.9% Silver
3.9 Hallmarks for Platinum
It is a legal requirement that all items of platinum 0.5 gram and over sold in the UK
must be tested and hallmarked at a registered Assay office of the United Kingdom.
Acceptable Levels of Fineness for Platinum.
Hallmarks
Alloy Content
Percentage
Parts Per Thousand
85% Platinum
850 Parts per 1000
850
90% Platinum
900 Parts per 1000
900
95% Platinum
950 Parts per 1000
950
99.9% Platinum
999 Parts per 1000
999
3.10 Hallmarks for Palladium
It is a legal requirement that all items of Palladium 1 gram and over sold in the UK
must be tested and hallmarked at a registered Assay office of the United Kingdom.
Acceptable Levels of Fineness for Palladium.
Hallmarks
Alloy Content
Percentage
Parts Per Thousand
50% Palladium
500 Parts per 1000
500
95% Palladium
950 Parts per 1000
950
99.9% Palladium
999 Parts per 1000
999
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3.11 Hallmarks for Items with Combined Metals
The following is the guidance published on the British Hallmarking Council’s web site
(www.britishhallmarkingcouncil.gov.uk)
MIXED METALS & PRE 1950 ARTICLES GUIDANCE NOTES
BACKGROUND
th
Changes to the Hallmarking legislation which came into force on April 6 2007 have
created new opportunities for the Jewellery industry and offer consumers more
accurate descriptions of the items they are purchasing.
Historically the Hallmarking Act has prevented the Assay Offices from hallmarking
items made of a mixture of precious and base metals, and the regulations for mixed
precious metal items have been very restricting. This has resulted in misleading
descriptions because if a precious metal item is not hallmarked then it can not be
described as such. Significant anomalies have arisen, particularly for expensive items
such as 18ct Gold and Stainless Steel watches which have had to be described as
“yellow metal” and stainless steel.
Consumers and the jewellery industry will benefit from the changes which will allow
for much more accurate descriptions of both upmarket mixed precious metal products
and also fashionable lower priced pieces.
REGULATIONS FOR ARTICLES OF TWO OR MORE PRECIOUS METALS
• The item can only be marked if, in the opinion of the Assay Office, an ordinary
person will be able to determine which part is which precious metal.
• Each precious metal component must be at least the minimum legal fineness for
that metal ie: Gold 375. Silver 800. Palladium 850 (parts per thousand).
• The full hallmark (Assay Office and fineness mark) struck will be that of the least
precious metal, in order, silver, gold and Palladium. This will normally be struck
on the appropriate metal.
• The minor (fineness) mark will be stamped on the “higher” precious metals.
Anomalies
• Where small components are used the above may not be possible. In these
circumstances the following rules apply:
o If it is not practical to stamp the fineness marks on the “higher” precious
metals, they may be stamped on the lower precious metals.
o If this is not practical then the fineness marks can be stamped on another
precious metal part.
o If neither of these options are practical, then the full (Assay Office and least
precious metal fineness) mark will be applied on the least precious metal
part and all other marks omitted.
• When a Palladium article has small component parts consisting of gold and the
gold parts are of a fineness of 750ppt or higher, then the article may be
hallmarked with a Palladium full mark and the appropriate gold fineness mark.
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This will not apply if the gold components are 585 or 375ppt. The gold fineness
mark can be applied anywhere on the article.
REGULATIONS FOR ARTICLES OF PRECIOUS METAL PARTS AND OTHER
MATERIALS
• A mixed precious metal and base metal article, or an article of mixed precious
metal and other materials, can only be hallmarked if any precious metal
component is at least the minimum legal fineness for that metal i.e. Gold 375.
Silver 800. Palladium 850 (parts per thousand).
• If an article includes base metal parts
o Those base metal parts must be clearly distinguishable from precious
metal parts by colour and/or texture and must be clearly visible by their
extent.
o The word +METAL must be applied next to the hallmark on the precious
metal part
o Whenever practical the word METAL or the name of the metal should
also be struck on the base metal part/s (brass, stainless steel, titanium
etc), in a manner which complies with any Regulation made by The
British Hallmarking Council.
o The hallmark can only be applied to the precious metal component.
Sufficient space must also be available adjacent to the hallmark for the
addition of the “+METAL” mark."
• If the article does not include base metal parts, but other materials,
then:
• The other materials must be clearly distinguishable from any precious
metal part.
• The non-precious metal part must not be plated to resemble any
precious metal.
• The extent of each part must be clearly visible.
• The precious metal part must be of a thickness of not less than 100
micrometres.
• A mixed material article containing only a single precious metal will be
hallmarked on the precious metal part only, as if it was a separate
article.
• For an article with more than one precious metal and a base metal the
rules which apply to hallmarking Mixed Precious Metals apply.
• NB Articles must still comply with the UK Nickel regulations
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Jewelry Quality Requirements: Casting
4 CASTING
1) Before casting, the manufacturer should make sure that the model conforms to all
of QVC’s specifications and quality requirements.
2) Metal must be free from any noticeable defects or discoloration. There must be...
- no fire scale/burn marks.
- no porosity, pits or pinholes.
- no parting lines.
- no sinks or dimples.
- no orange peel.
firescale
burn marks
- no filled air bubbles.
- no stains.
- no haze or dull film.
porosity
pits
pinholes
parting line
orange peel
filled air
bubble
sink/dimple
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Jewelry Quality Requirements: Casting
3) Metal must have no signs of stress cracking.
stress crack
4) Lines and edges must be smooth and in the same plane — not irregular, wavy or
serrated. There should be no rough edges or excess metal (i.e., flashing),
especially in the airways.
flashing
Incorrect
Correct
Incorrect
Correct
5) All parts must be free of investment plaster residue.
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Assembly
5 ASSEMBLY
5.1 Soldering
1) All soldered parts must be securely joined and aligned.
Correct
Incorrect
2) Assembly must be consistent among all production runs.
3) Solder must be the same colour as the metal.
4) There must be no visible soldered joints, and surrounding areas must be level and
smooth. There must be...
- no dullness, burn marks, darkening, oxidation or any other discoloration on
the joint or surrounding areas.
- no excess solder on the joint or surrounding areas.
- no pits or pin holes in the joint.
- no open seams or obvious seam lines.
Incorrect
Correct
Incorrect
Correct
5) Heads/settings must be in alignment when viewed from the top, front and side of
the piece.
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Correct
Incorrect
5.2 Glue Assembly
General guidelines
1) All glued parts must be securely joined and aligned. The proper type and amount
of glue must be used to sufficiently secure the joined parts.
2) Assembly must be consistent among all production runs.
3) The glue must be thoroughly dried prior to packing and shipping.
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4) Any visible or excess glue on the piece, either on the front or reverse side, is not
acceptable.
Correct
Incorrect
Unacceptable usage of glue — natural transparent gemstones
It is not acceptable to use glue, epoxy or other similar binding agents to secure or
affix natural transparent gemstones (e.g., sapphire, emerald, garnet, etc.). Any
exception to this restriction must be indicated on the Product Description
Sheet/Specification Sheet and approved by QVC QA during First-Piece Evaluation.
Acceptable usage of glue
It is acceptable to use glue, epoxy or other similar binding agents to secure following
types of jewellery:
- costume jewellery
- imitation stones
- natural opaque gemstones (e.g., onyx, jadeite, nephrite jade, etc.)
- cultured and mabé pearls
Note: When natural opaque gemstones and cultured pearls are set in precious metal,
glue should be used in conjunction with another setting method such as pegs or
prongs.
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Stone Placement and Settings
6 STONE PLACEMENT AND SETTINGS
6.1 Stone Placement
1) The table and girdle of the stone must be set level, with no noticeable slanting.
Incorrect
Correct
2) The stone must fit securely and firmly in the setting, regardless of setting style.
There must be no gaps, no danger of falling out, and no loose stones. A loose
stone is cause for rejection, even if there is no possibility of the stone falling out.
3) Stones should be set at a consistent height among all production runs.
4) For rings, the culet of the stone should not extend below the finger rest or touch
the skin when worn. For pendants, the stone should not extend beyond the base
of the setting.
finger rest
Correct
Incorrect
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5) For adjacent stones, the stones should be set as close as possible and in the
same plane, unless specified otherwise.
Incorrect
Correc
6.2 Prong Settings
1) The tip of the prong must be pushed firmly onto the stone. There must be no gap
between the tip of the prong and the stone.
2) Crooked prongs are not acceptable.
gap
tip
crooked
prong
Incorrect
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Correct
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3) Prongs must be symmetrically positioned and equal in length and shape within the
piece and throughout the production run. Extremely short prongs that fail to
secure the stone are unacceptable.
Incorrect
Correct
4) Prongs must be properly polished and finished. After polishing, there must be...
- no burrs.
- no tool marks or scratches.
- no excess metal.
- no rough edges.
- no fire scale.
- no visible porosity or holes.
- no lint.
- no casting residue.
- no polishing compound.
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5) Overpolishing that makes the prongs too thin is unacceptable.
overpolished prong
Correct
Incorrect
6) For jewellery items with “V” or chevron prongs, the two arms of the “V” should be
symmetrical, and the angles should be consistent within the piece. The point of
the “V” must be crisp (but not sharp) and not rounded. The two arms of the “V”
should not be pushed too closely together.
Incorrect
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Correct
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6.3 Bezel Settings
1) The edges of the bezel must conform snugly to the shape of the stone. There
must be no gaps between the inner edge of the bezel and the stone. The outline
of the bezel should be symmetrical.
Incorrect
Correct
2) The bezel must be even in height all around the stone, and it must not dip or rise
or expose the girdle. The edges of the bezel must not be jagged or uneven, and
there must be no excess metal or residue between the inner edge of the bezel and
the stone.
Incorrect
Correct
3) For back-set bezels, the table of the stone should sit as high as possible above the
inner edge of the bezel.
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Incorrect
Correct
4) For back-set bezels, the prongs must not be visible through the top of the stone.
6.4 Channel Settings
1) All stones in the channel must be set in the same plane. No stone should be
crooked or at a different height than any adjacent stones.
Incorrect
Correct
2) Adjacent stones should be placed girdle to girdle, with no gaps between stones.
However, a minute gap is permitted for round stones. For a minute gap to be
acceptable, it must be uniform throughout the channel.
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Incorrect
Correct - girdle to girdle
Correct - uniform gaps
3) The edges of the channel must be straight or in the same plane with no
irregularities.
Incorrect
Correct
6.5 Pave Settings
1) The table of the stone should sit above the surface of the surrounding area.
2) All burrs and tool marks must be removed. However, any overpolishing that
compromises the appearance of the design is unacceptable.
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Polishing
7 POLISHING
7.1 Pre-Polishing
For items with stone settings, all prongs and mountings must be properly polished
prior to setting the stone.
1) All metal surfaces, including settings and findings, must be polished to a clean,
smooth, consistent, highly-polished finish, unless specified otherwise. No part of
an item should be hazy or have a dull film.
2) After polishing the piece, there should be...
- no burrs.
- no tool marks or scratches.
- no excess metal/flashing.
- no rough edges.
- no fire scale.
- no visible porosity or holes.
- no lint.
- no casting residue.
- no polishing compound.
3) Any overpolishing that compromises the appearance and strength of the piece is
unacceptable. The design details, hallmark, trademark and country of origin must
remain distinct and legible.
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Polishing
4) The intended shape must remain intact, and there must be...
- no thinned parts, especially prongs, channels, bezels, etc. within the piece.
Incorrect
Correct
Incorrect
Correct
- no wavy, uneven edges or distorted shapes.
Incorrect
Correct
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Finishing and Texture Treatments
8 FINISHING AND TEXTURE TREATMENTS
1) The finish should be consistent in texture and direction.
Incorrect
Correct
2) There must be no nicks, scratches or tarnish.
3) Any textured finish on the underside of the piece must be uniform, clean and
bright.
4) For all jewellery, it is not acceptable to use any kind of synthetic clear coating,
such as e-coat, lacquer or polyurethane.
8.2 High Polished Finish
High polished pieces should have a reflective, mirror-like finish.
8.3 Matte, Satin, Frosted or Sandblasted Finish
The finish must be consistent and clean, and not uneven, dirty or oily.
8.4 Brushed or Florentine Finish
A Florentine or brushed finish must be consistent, and the pattern of lines should run
in a uniform direction throughout the piece.
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Finishing and Texture Treatments
8.5 Oxidation or “Antiquing”
1) Oxidation, anodising or “antiquing” must be consistent, controlled and not spotted
or blotchy. (Oxidation for darkening silver is the only acceptable method.)
2) The dark surface should not be excessive (i.e., “caked on”).
3) The dark surface should not flake off of the piece.
8.6 Diamond Cut Finish
1) A diamond cut finish must be consistent in size, direction, spacing and brilliance
throughout the piece.
2) All cut surfaces must have a highly reflective, mirror-like finish.
3) There must be no holes or sharp burrs.
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Mechanical Working Parts
9 PLATING
1) When applicable, plated items must be stamped and advertised in accordance
with CIBJO guidelines
2) All plating must be...
- durable
- hard
- lustrous
- dense (non-porous)
- visually uniform in thickness, colour and luster
Note: QVC may send plated jewellery to an independent laboratory to test for
plating thickness and durability.
3) Any tarnishing, peeling, cracking or exposed base metal will be cause for rejection.
4) For two-tone items, plating must not “bleed” or spill onto adjacent areas that
should not be plated.
5) For items plated with rhodium, the rhodium must be applied completely over the
intended area, but not spill onto any unintended areas. It must be a uniform white
colour, with no traces of discoloration.
9.2 Plated Findings
Plating must not impair the performance of the finding. However, any plating on the
finding must match the main piece in colour, finish and durability.
Nickel plating is NOT acceptable.
Any other coatings must be declared on submission to first piece inspection (lacquer
etc.)
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Findings
10 FINDINGS
1) All findings must function properly:
- They must be secure, durable, easy to operate and comfortable to wear.
- They must remain securely locked until opened intentionally. Although all
findings must remain securely locked, they should not be difficult to open.
- They must never freeze or stiffen.
- The tension must be appropriate for the item and must maintain performance
with reasonable wear.
2) The colour of the finding must match all components of the piece.
3) Findings must be consistent in type, size, weight and colour among all production
runs. It is strictly forbidden to use any finding that deviates from the specifications.
4) Findings must be consistent in tension and performance among all production
runs.
5) Unless specified otherwise or approved, the karatage/fineness of the finding must
match the main piece.
(QVC recognises that some items may require the finding’s karatage/fineness to
vary from the main piece, e.g., 22ct bracelet with a 18ct clasp. This exception
must be approved by the QVC Buyer prior to production. In cases in which the
finding is a different karatage, both the main piece and the finding must be
appropriately trademarked and hallmarked with their respective karatages.)
6) Plating must not impair the performance of the finding. However, any plating on
the finding must match the main piece in colour, finish and durability.
7) Base metal components can NOT under any circumstances be permanently affixed
to gold or silver items (soldered, or riveted etc.) unless they meet with the “Mixed
Metals” guidelines laid down by the Hallmarking Act (3.10)
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10.2 Bolt Ring and Lobster Claw Clasps
1) The spring action must be smooth and secure. When opened and then released,
the clasp should close completely and securely without assistance.
2) The clasp and jump ring should be proportionate. The clasp should be large
enough to enable the jump ring to move freely within the clasp.
3) For bolt ring clasps, the inside wire and tube must be proportionate and aligned.
When closed, the wire must fit securely in the tube. The wire must also be long
enough to resist slipping out of the tube.
wire
tube
Incorrect
Correct
4) For lobster claw clasps, the parts must be proportionate and aligned. When
closed, there must be no gap between the tongue and the claw.
claw
tongue
Incorrect
30
Correct
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10.3 Box Clasp and Hidden Box Clasp
1) The tongue must fit snugly and securely in the box of the clasp and should make a
“click” sound when locking.
2) The tongue must never come out of the box without firmly depressing the plunger.
3) It is only acceptable for the tongue of a silver box clasp to be base metal and this
Must be marked “Base Metal”.
plunger
box
tongue
10.4 Figure Eight Safety Catch
1) The catch and peg must be aligned and securely attached to the piece.
peg
catch
hinge
Incorrect
correct
2) The catch must be symmetrical and move smoothly on the hinge.
3) The peg should be polished and shaped like a round bead.
4) The catch must close securely over the peg and remain locked until opened
intentionally. The catch should not bend when opening.
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10.5 Fold-Over Clasp
1) The clasp must move smoothly on the hinge.
2) When closing, the clasp must snap securely shut.
10.6 Earring Clutches
A. Post and Butterfly or scroll
1) There must be enough friction between the post and butterfly or scroll to ensure a
secure fit.
2) The post must be sturdy enough to resist bending or breaking when moderate
pressure is applied.
3) Post length
- Unless specified otherwise, the following are minimum and maximum lengths
for earring posts:
Minimum post length:
7 mm
Maximum post length:
11 mm
- While the lengths of posts may vary according to the design of the piece, QVC
prefers that posts allow for the following useable length:
Post useable length standard:
9.4 mm
- Regardless of the length, all posts must be long enough to extend through the
ear lobe and leave enough space for the butterfly or scroll to secure the earring
comfortably.
- Excessively long posts that cause discomfort will be rejected.
4) Post thickness
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- Unless specified otherwise, the following are minimum and maximum
thicknesses for earring posts:
Minimum post diameter :
0.66 mm (0.026 in.)
Maximum post diameter:
0.84 mm (0.033 in.)
- QVC prefers that Vendors use the following post thicknesses, depending on the
materials and design of the piece:
Standard Diameter
Medium Diameter
Heavy Diameter
0.66 mm (0.026 in.)
0.69 mm (0.027 in.)
0.79 mm (0.031 in.)
5) Tips and edges must be rounded and buffed to a smooth finish with no sharp
points, burrs or edges.
6) Assembly
- The post must be securely soldered, straight and perpendicular to the back
surface of the piece.
Incorrect
Correct
- Assembly must be consistent within the pair and among all production runs.
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Incorrect
Correct
B. Omega Fitting
1) The spring hinge must provide enough tension to enable the clip to close securely
and fit snugly against the ear lobe.
2) A clip that fits too tightly and causes discomfort will be rejected.
3) If comfort pads are required, they must be aligned and securely attached to the
clip.
C. Lever back/ Euro wire
1) The hinge must provide enough tension to enable the lever to shut securely
against the wire.
2) The hinge must move smoothly and never freeze or stiffen.
3) The tension must be consistent among all pieces and production runs.
D. Ear wire/ Shepherds hook
1) The ear wire must be sturdy, consistent in shape, and not crooked or bent.
2) Tips and edges must be properly rounded and buffed, with no sharp edges, points
or burrs.
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Mechanical Working Parts
11 MECHANICAL WORKING PARTS
All mechanical working parts, including springs, joint/catch for pins, screws, hinges,
rivets, clasp snap tongues, etc. must function properly. They must be durable,
corrosion resistant and secure. (All mechanical working parts undergo thorough
testing by QVC QA.)
For joint/catches for pins, the point of the pin stem should not extend beyond the
catch.
Incorrect
Correct
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Chains (Necklaces, Bracelets, Anklets)
12 CHAINS (Necklaces, Bracelets, Anklets)
1) All findings, mechanical parts and other components must function in accordance
with QVC’s quality requirements and specifications.
2) Metal must be free of noticeable defects, and polished, finished, assembled and/or
plated in accordance with QVC’s quality requirements and specifications.
3) The chain must be strong, durable and flexible enough for its intended use. It
should resist breakage when subjected to moderate pulling and tension.
4) End caps must be secure with no sharp edges.
5) Jump rings (i.e., “o” rings) must be aligned and secure. If the jump ring is
soldered, there must be no excess solder.
Incorrect
Correct
Correct
6) Links should fit each other with precision. There must be no unnecessary gaps,
movement or stiffness between the links. Alignment and flexibility must be
consistent throughout the piece.
7) Jump rings must be large enough to move freely when fastened to a clasp.
8) The gauge, length and width of the chain must be consistent among all production
runs.
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12.2 How to Measure Chains
General guidelines
1) The length and width of all chains are measured in centimetres.
2) QVC strongly recommends that chains be measured using a British standard
metal ruler with a government approval mark. When the chain is longer than 30
centimetres, QVC strongly recommends using a ruler that is longer than 30
centimetres.
3) The width is determined by measuring the chain at its widest section. If the chain
is supposed to taper in width, it should be stated on the Product Description
Sheet/Specification Sheet.
4) To determine the length of the chain, the “useable length” is measured. The
useable length is the portion of the chain which contributes to the length of the
piece when the finding is fastened and the piece is worn. The useable length also
signifies the “fit” of the piece.
5) When measuring the length, lay the chain as flat and as straight as possible
against a ruler. If the chain cannot lie completely straight, straighten it out as
much as possible without distorting or damaging the piece. (See illustration below
of a chevron chain.)
chevron chain
Measuring chain with a box, hidden box or barrel clasp
Do not measure the tongue or any other part that is not included in the “useable
length.”
tongue
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box, hidden box or barrel clasp
Measuring chain with a spring ring or lobster claw clasp
Measure the entire piece from end to end.
spring ring or lobster claw clasp
Measuring chain with a fold-over clasp
Do not measure the clasp or any other part that is not part of the useable length.
hinge
fold – over clasp
12.3 Chain Length Tolerances
One quarter inch (5 mm) over tolerance
For all chain lengths, the over tolerance is five millimetres (5mm.). A chain may
measure up to a 5mm. longer than the specified length. Any chain that is over 5mm.
longer than the specified length will be rejected.
Zero (0) under tolerance
There is no under tolerance for chain length. Any chain that measures less than the
specified length will be rejected.
Note: The above tolerances also apply to chain extenders.
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Rings
13 RINGS
To ensure that Suppliers understand QVC’s terminology, the following is an illustration
which points out the main parts of a ring:
bezel setting
gallery
claw
shoulder
Under bezel
makersmark and hallmark
chevron claw
outer shank
inner shank
sizing area/
palm shank
1) The setting must conform to all of QVC’s quality requirements and specifications.
2) Metal must be free of noticeable defects, and cast, assembled, polished, finished
and/or plated in accordance with QVC quality requirements and specifications.
3) Any hallmark and makersmark must be properly applied to the piece and conform
to UK Hallmarking guidelines and QVC’s quality requirements and specifications.
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4) Galleries, claws and other open areas should be well calibrated and symmetrical.
Incorrect
Correct
5) The inner and outer shank must not have any sharp, rough or unpolished edges
that would cause discomfort or injury.
6) The shank must be sturdy and durable enough for its intended use. The shank
should be able to withstand moderate pressure when pinched between the thumb
and index finger.
7) The shank must be comfortable when worn, but not so thin or soft as to
compromise the strength of the ring.
8) The shank must be round. Any ring that is not round or “out-of round” will be
rejected.
Incorrect
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Correct
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9) Any evidence of a sized shank (e.g., seams, excess solder) will be cause for
rejection.
13.2 How to Measure Ring Size
1) QVC measures ring size by using a grooved mandrel that is calibrated to British
Standard BS1283 : 1945. Since commercial mandrels vary widely, the Supplier
should also use mandrels calibrated to the same standard. (See chart below.) To
ensure you are measuring your sizes the same as our QA team you can purchase
calibrated ring mandrels from QVC (contact [email protected])
British Standard 1283 : 1945
Size
Diameter
(in)*
Diameter
(mm)*
Size
Diameter
(in)*
Diameter
(mm)*
Size
Diameter
(in)*
Diameter
(mm)*
A
0.4750
12.065
J 1/2
0.6223
15.806
T
0.7695
19.545
A 1/2
0.4828
12.263
K
0.6300
16.002
T 1/2
0.7772
19.741
B
0.4905
12.459
K 1/2
0.6378
16.200
U
0.7850
19.939
B 1/2
0.4983
12.657
L
0.6455
16.396
U 1/2
0.7928
20.137
C
0.5060
12.852
L 1/2
0.6533
16.594
V
0.8005
20.333
C 1/2
0.5138
13.051
M
0.6610
16.789
V 1/2
0.8083
20.531
D
0.5215
13.246
M 1/2
0.6688
16.988
W
0.8160
20.726
D 1/2
0.5293
13.444
N
0.6765
17.183
W 1/2
0.8238
20.925
E
0.5370
13.640
N 1/2
0.6843
17.381
X
0.8315
21.120
E 1/2
0.5448
13.838
O
0.6920
17.577
X 1/2
0.8393
21.318
F
0.5525
14.034
O 1/2
0.6998
17.775
Y
0.8470
21.514
F 1/2
0.5603
14.232
P
0.7075
17.971
Y 1/2
0.8548
21.712
G
0.5680
14.427
P 1/2
0.7153
18.169
Z
0.8625
21.908
G 1/2
0.5758
14.625
Q
0.7230
18.364
Z 1/2
0.8703
22.106
H
0.5835
14.821
Q 1/2
0.7308
18.562
H 1/2
0.5913
15.019
R
0.7385
18.758
I
0.5990
15.215
R 1/2
0.7463
18.956
I 1/2
0.6068
15.413
S
0.7540
19.152
J
0.6145
15.608
S 1/2
0.7618
19.350
* The Diameter refers to the inside diameter of the ring.
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2) The ring should be dropped on the mandrel, allowing the ring to centre itself with
its own weight. The ring should not be pushed onto the mandrel.
3) The ring size is determined by the leading edge of the shank.
leading edge
13.3 Ring Size Tolerances
A. One Half (1/2) over tolerance
For all ring sizes, the over tolerance is one half (1/2) of a size. The ring may be up to
a 1/2 of a size greater than the intended size. Any ring that is over 1/2 of a size
greater than the intended size will be rejected.
B. Zero (0) under tolerance
There is no under tolerance for ring sizes.
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Gemstones
14 GEMSTONES
Unless specified otherwise, the following standards apply to all gemstone products,
including natural, synthetic (man made synthesis of natural elements to form the gem
stone), simulated/imitation (man made using man made materials to simulate a
natural gem stone), and organic gemstones (pearls, mother of pearl, sea bamboo
etc..).
14.1 Specifying Gemstone Requirements
QVC expects all gemstone jewellery to meet our quality standards. However, QVC
also recognises that quality can vary from one type of gemstone to another,
depending on factors such as characteristics for a particular gemstone material.
Because of these variations in quality, it is imperative that the QVC Buyer and Vendor
establish agreed-upon standards by considering important factors such as the
following:
- calibration (size)
- minimum carat weight
- clarity grade (e.g., eye clean vs. table clean)
- colour range
- cut quality & design
- intended setting
- any other pertinent quality considerations for a particular type of stone
Criteria for the above factors should be established and written on the Gemstone
Declaration Form in time for sample to be submitted to First-Piece QA.
If the Vendor expects a noticeable range or variation with respect to an item’s cut,
clarity or colour, it is strongly recommended that the Vendor submit a set of stones
representing the range to the QVC Buyer, prior to the First-Piece Evaluation, to
determine whether QVC will accept such a range.
14.2 Terminology for Parts of Gemstones
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To ensure that Vendors understand QVC’s terminology, the following illustrations
point out the parts of a gemstone:
A. Faceted gemstone
table
crown
girdle
pavilion
culet
B. Fancy shapes
head
cleft
point
wing
lobe
shoulder
belly
belly
belly
wing
wing
wing
point
point
point
marquise
44
heart
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pear
14.3 Gemstone Identification
In compliance with FTC guidelines, QVC will reject any jewellery or gemstone item
that is inaccurately identified or represented. It is imperative that Vendors accurately
identify all gemstone product and verify any claims with respect to a gemstone’s
identity and country of origin. QVC uses the following documents/policies to ensure
that all gemstones are accurately identified and described by Vendors.
Note: QVC will not accept misnomers. A “misnomer” is any term that misrepresents
the identity, origin, formation, composition or appearance of a gemstone.
Gemstone Declaration
For all items which contain inorganic or organic gemstone material that is natural,
synthetic or cultured, the Vendor must complete a Gemstone Declaration Form when
submitting a First-Piece Sample. (Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration Form.) This
ensures proper identification of gemstone jewellery and assists QVC QA during the
First-Piece Evaluation.
Country of Origin
This is where the stone was mined not purchased must be declared on the
Gemstone Declaration Form when submitting a First-Piece Sample.
Treatments
For all natural, synthetic and cultured gemstones, the Vendor must disclose, on
the Gemstone Declaration Form (see Appendix C: Gemstone Declaration
Form), ALL treatments used including: Dyed or any alteration to colour.
For a full list of acceptable gemstone treatments see Appendix D : Acceptable
Gemstone Treatments.
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14.4 Gemstone Clarity
Inspection method
Unaided-eye inspection
When evaluating clarity, our QVC Inspectors look from the crown view (i.e., top view,
table-view, face-up ) with an unaided eye at a “bent elbow” distance, which is
approximately six (6) to twelve (12) inches from the eyes. Vision is assumed to be
20/20 and colour vision is assumed to be normal.
table
crown view
Magnification
Although QVC Inspectors do not use magnification to detect defects, they may use a
10X jeweller’s loupe or 2X to 5X glasses to obtain a clearer view of an eye-visible
feature or defect.
General clarity standards
The following are clarity standards which must be met, regardless of clarity grade,
price, type of gemstone or any other agreed-upon criteria:
1) There must be no inclusions (internal flaws) or blemishes (surface flaws), imposed
naturally or by the manufacturing process, that threaten the stone’s structural
integrity.
2) There must be no noticeable blemishes such as chips, cracks, scratches, polishing
marks on the crown or girdle. For transparent stones in particular, any blemish on
the pavilion or culet that can be seen when looking through the crown is
unacceptable.
3) It is unacceptable to use glass or resin (i.e., “filler”) to enhance a stone’s clarity.
4) All stones of the same type within an individual piece should match in clarity.
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5) All pieces among every production run must conform to the agreed-upon clarity
grade and range for that item.
6) If the Vendor expects a noticeable variation with respect to clarity, QVC may
request the Vendor to provide a set of stones which represents the range of
variation.
Clarity grades
Depending on the specified criteria and standards, gemstones will be expected to
conform to one of the following clarity grades:
Eye clean
No inclusions should be visible under the entire crown.
(For example, blue topaz is expected to meet this clarity grade.)
Table clean No inclusions should be visible under the table facet.
(For example, garnet is expected to meet this clarity grade.)
Slightly
included
Slight or minor inclusions are acceptable under the crown.
(For example, ruby is expected to meet this clarity grade.)
Included
Noticeable to obvious inclusions are acceptable under the crown.
(For example, emeralds are expected to meet this clarity grade.)
Note: Such inclusions must be uniform throughout the stone and must
not threaten the stone’s structural integrity or give a mottled appearance
of colour.
14.5 Gemstone Colour
1) Each individual stone should be uniform in tone (lightness/darkness) and intensity
(brightness) from the crown view. There must be no obvious colour-banding or
colour-zoning from the crown view, even if the variation is within the specified
colour range, unless specified otherwise.
2) Stones intended to be the same colour in a multi-stone item should match in
colour. Even if a colour range is broad for a QVC item, the stones within an
individual piece must not noticeably vary.
3) All pieces among every production run must conform to the specified colour range.
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4) If the Vendor expects a noticeable variation with respect to colour, QVC may
variation.
14.6 Gemstone Cut
1) There should be no extreme cut deviation in faceting, outline shape or
depth that...
- threatens the stone’s structural integrity.
- impairs proper setting.
- noticeably detracts from the stone’s beauty.
- compromises the guaranteed minimum carat weight.
2) The cut should be symmetrical and consistently proportioned.
There should be...
- no noticeably off-centred tables.
Incorrect
48
Incorrect
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Correct
- no noticeably off-centred culets.
Incorrect
Incorrect
Correct
- no girdles which are noticeably “wavy” or inconsistent in thickness.
“wavy” girdle
inconsistent girdle
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3) Fancy shapes that fail to conform to industry visual standards are not acceptable.
The following are examples of distortions in major fancy shapes that are cause for
rejection. (The dotted lines represent the correct shape.)
Marquise
uneven wings
flat wings
bulged wings
Pear
acute point
undefined point
Heart
uneven lobes
undefined cleft
Emerald
sides not parallel
narrow and wide corners
Oval
uneven shoulders
4) In multi-stone designs, stones which are intended to have the same outline shape,
cutting style, size, height and/or length must match each other in cut proportion.
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Correct
incorrect
5) All pieces among every production run must conform to the specified cutting style
and outline shape.
6) If the Vendor expects a noticeable range or variation with respect to cut, QVC may
variation.
14.7 Gemstone Carat Weight
The following section applies to all items in which the total carat weight is advertised.
14.7.1 Specifying Carat Weight
The Vendor and QVC Buyer must indicate the specified minimum total carat weight of
the piece (“specified carat weight”) on the following documents:
- QVC Descriptive Information (responsibility of the QVC Buyer) (see Appendix
C: Gemstone Declaration Form.)
This information must be specified on the document listed above before shipping
product to the QVC warehouse.
14.7.2 Verifying Carat Weight During First-Piece Evaluation
During First-Piece Evaluation, the carat weight of the First-Piece Sample is measured
and compared to the specified carat weight listed on the Product Specification Sheet.
The First-Piece Sample should not weigh less than the specified carat weight.
14.7.3 Establishing Carat Weight During QVC Warehouse Receipt
Inspection
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Upon receiving a shipment of product at the QVC warehouse, QVC QA conducts a
Receipt Inspection. During Receipt Inspection of the first receipt, QVC QA weighs
pieces in the receipt and establishes the advertised minimum carat weight
(“advertised carat weight”). This advertised carat weight is compared to the specified
carat weight listed on the Product Specification Sheet.
NOTE: If there is a discrepancy between the specified carat weight and the
advertised carat weight, the Purchase Order and price are subject to review by the
QVC Buyer.
NOTE: The advertised carat weight established during Receipt Inspection is the carat
weight that will be advertised to customers. There must be no piece in the first receipt
or future receipts for a QVC item that weighs less than this advertised minimum carat
weight.
NOTE: Some Purchase Orders establish a guaranteed minimum weight prior to
Receipt Inspection. If this is the case, then any discrepancy between the alreadyestablished guaranteed minimum weight and the advertised weight will be cause for
rejection.
14.7.4 Restriction for Reorders
The following restriction applies to all reorders/subsequent receipts (2nd, 3rd, etc.) of
a QVC item:
For all subsequent receipts, the minimum carat weight must never be less than the
advertised carat weight established during Receipt Inspection of the first receipt.
There is no under tolerance for the advertised carat weight of subsequent receipts.
For example, if the advertised total carat weight of the first receipt was 1.2 carats, but
the total minimum carat weight for the second receipt is only 1 carat, then the entire
second receipt will be rejected.
Any over tolerance is subject to review by the QVC Buyer.
14.8 Gemstone Polishing
1) On the surface of the stone, there should be...
- no scratches.
- no polishing marks or lines.
- no residual polishing rouge.
- no water stains.
2) The polish should be even and consistent in luster.
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3) The facet edges or girdle should not be abraded or rounded by overpolishing.
4) Stones in a multi-stone item should match each other in polish and luster.
5) All pieces among every production run must match each other in polish and luster.
14.9 Cultured Pearls and Pearls
QVC QA inspects cultured pearls and pearls with an appreciation for their unique,
inherent properties. Nevertheless, pearls must conform to fundamental standards of
quality outlined throughout section 10.14: Gemstones and below.
General cultured pearl and pearl requirements
1) The nacre surface of cultured pearls and pearls must have a consistent, smooth
and lustrous finish with...
- no artificial coating or lacquer.
- no prominent blisters.
- no prominent crevices.
- no cracked, chipped, thin or peeling nacre.
- no obvious dull or dark spots.
- no excessive nicks, especially around the drill holes.
- no extra or misaligned drill holes.
- no visible cement or any other type of adhesive.
2) Multi-cultured pearl and multi-pearl items (e.g., necklace, earrings) or an item set
(e.g., bracelet/necklace combination) should match in colour, size and overall
quality, unless specified otherwise.
Setting
1) Cultured pearls and pearls must fit neatly and securely within the setting.
2) The primary method for setting cultured pearls and pearls must be mechanical,
such as a hidden peg or prongs. Any glue used in conjunction with the primary
setting method must be consistent in application and not visible. (See section 5.2:
Glue Assembly.)
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Stringing
1) Cultured pearls and pearls should be strung with silk, polyester, monofilament or
any other material that is strong and durable enough to resist breakage.
2) Either knotted or unknotted stringing is acceptable, as long as the string provides
enough strength and durability. The knots in knotted stringing must be pulled
tightly in order to stabilise the length.
3) Cultured pearls and pearls must be evenly spaced and knots should be consistent
in size.
Incorrect
Correct
4) Cultured pearls and pearls should “drape” naturally when worn with. . .
- no exposed string.
- no excessive sliding.
- no excessive twisting.
- no excessive stiffness.
Incorrect
54
Correct
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14.10 Gemstone Size
Whenever necessary, QVC QA measures the dimensions of gemstones in millimetres
(mm). When evaluating the size of a gemstone, QVC QA considers the following
basic factors:
- Overall visual consistency among stones in an individual multi-stone item
- Overall visual consistency among pieces and production runs
- Conformance to any QVC size specifications
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Jewellery Quality Requirements: Establishing Gram and Carat Weights
15 GRAM WEIGHT
This section applies to all items which QVC purchases by the gram, or items in which
the gram weight is advertised.
15.1 Specifying Gram Weight
The Vendor and QVC Buyer must indicate the finished minimum piece weight
(“finished piece weight”) on the following documents:
- Product Specification Sheet (see Appendix A: Product Specification Sheet)
15.2 Verifying Gram Weight During First-Piece Evaluation
During First-Piece Evaluation, the piece weight of the First-Piece Sample is measured
and compared to the finished piece weight. The First-Piece Sample should not weigh
less than the finished piece weight.
15.3 Establishing Gram Weight During QVC Warehouse Receipt
Inspection
Upon receiving a shipment of product at the QVC warehouse, Q VC QA conducts a
Receipt Inspection. During Receipt Inspection of the first receipt, QVC QA weighs
pieces in the receipt and establishes the advertised minimum gram weight of the
piece (“advertised piece weight”). This advertised piece weight is compared to the
finished piece weight listed on the Product Specification Sheet.
NOTE: If there is a discrepancy between the specified piece weight and the
advertised piece weight, the Purchase Order and price are subject to review by the
QVC Buyer.
NOTE: The advertised piece weight established during Receipt Inspection is the
weight that will be advertised to customers. There must be no piece in the first receipt
or future receipts for a QVC item that weighs less than this advertised minimum piece
weight.
NOTE: Some Purchase Orders establish a guaranteed minimum weight prior to
Receipt Inspection. If this is the case, then any discrepancy between the alreadyestablished guaranteed minimum weight and the advertised piece weight will be
cause for rejection.
56
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Section-15v4.2.doc
Jewellery Quality Requirements: Establishing Gram and Carat Weights
15.4 Restriction for Reorders
The following restriction applies to all reorders/subsequent receipts (2nd, 3rd, etc.) of
a QVC item:
For all subsequent receipts, the minimum piece weight must never be less than the
advertised piece weight established during Receipt Inspection of the first receipt.
There is no under tolerance for the minimum piece weight of subsequent receipts.
For example, if the advertised piece weight of the first receipt was 7 grams, but the
minimum piece weight of the second receipt is only 6.8 grams, then the entire second
receipt will be rejected.
Any over tolerance is subject to review by the QVC Buyer.
QVC
57
© QVC 2010
Section-15v4.2.doc
Jewellery Quality Requirements: Coloured Gold
16 COLOURED GOLD
As gold’s natural colour is yellow in order to change this colour it is necessary to alloy
the gold with the required percentage of other metals to facilitate the change from the
natural yellow to the accepted colour ranges, the acceptable colour influencing metals
are: Copper for Red Gold (Rose Gold) and Nickel, Palladium & Silver for White Gold.
QVC acceptable percentages of these metals are set out below:
16.1 Red Gold (Rose Gold)
The primary colouring agent for the range of red gold’s of which rose gold is one, is
copper. The higher the percentage of copper the redder the final alloy. The level of
copper is obviously dictated by the carat of gold being produced (9ct, 14ct or 18ct in
QVC’s case) and the particular working properties required for production.
The recommended levels are as follows:
9ct Alloy
37.5% Gold + Minimum 55% copper up to 62.5% copper dependant on working
properties & depth of colour required.
14ct Alloy
58.5% Gold + Minimum 31.1% copper up to 41.5% copper dependant on working
18ct Alloy
75% Gold + Minimum 19.5% copper up to 22.4% copper dependant on working
These percentages are based on the standard Au–Ag–Cu ternary system. If a
stronger whitening metal than silver (nickel for example) is used in the alloy to change
working properties then more copper will be required to ensure the acceptable colour
is achieved. For example: for every 1% of nickel 0.5% more copper would be
required.
16.2 White Gold
For white gold the metallurgy is different as there are a number of metals that can
influence the whiteness of gold. These fall into two main groups:
Primary whiteners: the most common of which are Nickel and Palladium.
Secondary whiteners: the most common of which are Sliver and Zinc.
The approximate effects of these metals are 1% Silver is equal to 1% Zinc, 0.6%
Nickel and 0.6% Palladium.
Because nickel is the most economic of the two primary whiteners and there are the
constraints of the Nickel compliance regulations the following recommended alloys
have taken these factors into account.
58
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Section-16 v4.3.doc
The World Gold Council working party set two white gold standard:
Premium White: which requires no Rhodium plating.
Standard White: which will require Rhodium plating.
For each of the carat gold’s below there is an indicator of the percentages required to
meet the premium and standard white requirements.
The recommended levels are as follows:
9ct Alloy
37.5% Gold + Minimum 45% Silver up to 62% Silver dependant on working properties
& depth of colour required.
Premium
• Minimum 62% silver
Standard
• Minimum 45% silver
14ct Alloy
58.5% Gold + Minimum 22.5% whitener (of which 12% has to be primary whitener) up
to 26.5% whitener (of which 16% has to be primary whitener) dependant on working
• Premium
Minimum 26.5% whiteners (of which 16.5% are primary
whiteners)
• Standard
Minimum 22.5% whiteners (of which 12% are primary whiteners)
18ct Alloy
75% Gold + Minimum 19.5% whitener (of which 7.4% has to be primary whitener) up
to 24.5% whitener (of which 17% has to be primary whitener) dependant on working
• Premium
• Minimum 17.5% whiteners (of which 13.5% are primary whiteners,
combined with other alloying elements) or a minimum of 24.5% whiteners
(of which 17% are primary whiteners)
• Standard
• Minimum 19.5% whiteners (of which 7.4% are primary whiteners, combined
with other alloying elements)
QVC
59
© QVC 2010
Section-16 v4.3.doc
16.3 Measuring the colour of gold
The final arbiter as to whether the item meets the accepted standards of colour will be
the CIE Lab co-ordinates of the sample compared to the standards (BS EN
28654:1993. ISO 8654:1987 & World Gold Council guidelines for White Gold).
This would be carried out using an instrument known as a colour spectrophotometer.
The measured values are converted into 3 colour co-ordinates that reflect the human
perception of colour. These are the degree of brightness (reflectivity) L, the red-green
component, a*, and the yellow-blue component, b* of colour. It is important that
colour is measured under standard conditions of surface finish, lighting and
measurement parameters.
60
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© QVC 2010
Section-16 v4.3.doc
i
QVC
©QVC, 2009
QVC
©QVC, 2009
ii
iii
QVC
©QVC, 2010
This Appendix represents only those gemstone treatments that QVC UK accepts.
Although there are a number of treatments commonly allowed by the jewellery
industry, QVC accepts only those listed on the following pages for each particular
gemstone type.
Gemstone
Acceptable Treatment
Special Care
Agate (also see onyx)

All colours
Patterned Agate
(crazy agate)
Blue Lace
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Dyed, resulting in stable
colour
•
Treatment-free
•
colour
Normal. Certain
stones may fade in
heat or light.
Normal. Certain
stones may fade in
heat or light.
• Treatment-free
Normal.
•
Treatment-free
•
Avoid heat, chemicals
& ultrasonic cleaners.
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Heated with pressure
•
Heated oils and pressure
Alexandrite (see
Chrysoberyl)
Amazonite
Amber

iv
Yellow Golden
Brown
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Avoid chemicals &
ultrasonic cleaning.
Gemstone

Red
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
•

Amber Doublet,
Green
•
Special Care
Avoid chemicals &
ultrasonic cleaning.
colour
Heated oils and pressure
An assembled product
with golden amber on a
black base
Special care required.
Avoid abrasives.
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
Ammolite
•
Treatment-free
Ammolite Doublet
•
Assembled product
Avoid heat,
chemicals, ultrasonic
cleaners &
repolishing.
Ammolite Triplet
•
Assembled product
Avoid heat,
cleaners &
repolishing.
Andalusite
• Treatment-free
Apatite
•
Treatment-free
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
Amethyst
Ametrine
Aquamarine (Blue to
Green Beryl)
Aventurine, Green
• Treatment-free
Some unheated
material may fade
with prolonged
exposure to strong
sunlight.
Normal.
Normal.
Normal.
Beryl
QVC
©QVC, 2010
v
Gemstone

Pink (Morganite)
Yellow-Green
Calcite
Special Care
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Treatment-free
•
Irradiated
•
colour
Avoid sudden
temperature changes
& harsh chemicals.
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
colour
Normal. Certain
stones may fade in
heat or light.
Normal.
Normal.
Carnelian

Reddish-brown
chalcedony
Chalcedony (special
term)
• Treatment-free, term
reserved by QVC for
non-treated chalcedony
Certain stones may
fade in heat or light.
Note: chalcedony is
sometimes called agate or
onyx.
Chrome Diopside
(green)
• Treatment-free
Avoid sudden
temperature changes
& harsh chemicals.
Chrysoberyl

Alexandrite
•
Treatment-free
Normal.

Cat’s-Eye
•
Treatment-free
Normal.

Transparent
green, yellow,
brown
•
Treatment-free
Normal.
Chrysoprase
• Treatment-free
Normal.
Citrine
•
Treatment-free
Normal.
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
vi
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Gemstone
Special Care
Coral (Is only acceptable
from sustainable sources)

Black
•
Treatment-free
Avoid chemicals,
cosmetics & ultrasonic
cleaners.

White
•
Treatment-free
•
Bleached
Avoid chemicals,
cleaners. May
discolour over time.
•
Treatment-free
•
colour
•
Impregnated with
resin/polymer
•
Treatment-free
•
Bleached from black
coral
•
Treatment-free
•
colour
•
Impregnated with
resin/polymer
•
Treatment-free
•
colour
•
Impregnated with
resin/polymer
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated

Pink, Orange,
Red
Gold
Blue
Coral, Sponge
Danburite
Diamond, Natural
Colour (White,
Champagne, Yellow)
• Treatment-free
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Avoid chemicals,
cleaners.
Avoid chemicals,
cleaners.
Avoid chemicals,
cleaners.
Avoid chemicals &
ultrasonic cleaners.
Avoid temperature
changes, steaming,
chemicals & ultrasonic
cleaners.
Normal.
vii
Gemstone
Diamond, Colour
Treated (Yellow, Red,
Blue, Pink, Green,
Black and Fancy
Hues)
• Irradiated
Special Care
Normal.
• Heated
• HTHP (high temperature
and high pressure)
NOTE: The vendor is
responsible to disclose all
treatments to the Buyer
prior to accepting a
Purchase Order. The
vendor must disclose all
treatments on the
Gemstone Declaration and
Treatment Disclosure Form
when submitting any sample
to QVC.
Emerald
Fluorite
Garnet: Almandite,
Demantoid,
Grossularite, Pyrope,
Rhodolite,
Spessartite, Tsavorite
Hematite
•
Treatment-free
•
QVC accepts emeralds
treated with colourless
oil only.
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Treatment-free for all
varieties listed
Note: If dye was used, the
dye must be removed with
solvents.
• Treatment-free
Avoid temperature
changes, steaming,
cleaners.
Avoid temperature
changes, steaming,
cleaners.
Avoid sudden
temperature change
(for all garnets listed).
Normal.
Howlite

White
•
Treatment-free
Avoid chemicals and

Other Colours
•
colour
Avoid chemicals and
Iolite
viii
• Treatment-free
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Normal.
Gemstone
Special Care
Jade, Jadeite

•
Treatment-free
Avoid ultrasonic
cleaners.
Green, Lavender, •
Orange, White & •
Yellow
•
Treatment-free
Avoid ultrasonic
cleaners.
Russian Jade
Bleached with acid,
colour, and
•
Impregnated with
resin/polymer
•
Bleached with acid,
•
colour, and
•
Impregnated with resin
•
Treatment-free
•
colour
•
Impregnated with
resin/polymer
•
Treatment-free
•
colour
•
Impregnated with
resin/polymer
Jet
•
Treatment-free
Avoid sudden
temperature change.
Kyanite
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
Avoid temperature
changes, steaming,
cleaners.

Blue & Pink
Jade, Nephrite
Jasper
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Avoid prolonged
strong light,
chemicals, and
May discolour over
time.
Avoid chemicals,
ultrasonic cleaners &
strong light.
Normal.
ix
Gemstone
Labradorite
• Treatment-free
Lapis Lazuli
•
Treatment-free
•
Dyed resulting in stable
colour

Denim Lapis
Special Care
Avoid ultrasonic
cleaners.
Avoid chemicals and
• Treatment-free
Malachite
•
Marcasite
• Treatment-free
Treatment-free
Avoid chemicals and
Moonstone

Blue, Grey,
Orange,
Rainbow, White
• Treatment-free
Normal.
Mother-of-Pearl

White
• Treatment-free

Colours
•
Treatment-free
•
colour
Avoid chemicals &
Avoid chemicals &
• Assembled product
Avoid chemicals and
Mother-of-Pearl Watch • Assembled Product
Dial
Avoid heat,
cleaners and
repolishing.
Mother-of-Pearl
Doublet

x
White
• Treatment-free
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Avoid heat,
cleaners and
repolishing.
Gemstone

Colours
• Treatment-free
• Dyed, resulting in a
stable colour

Bright Fashion
Colours
Obsidian
Special Care
Avoid heat,
cleaners and
repolishing.
• Dyed, resulting in a
stable colour
Avoid heat,
cleaners and
repolishing.
• Treatment-free
Normal.
Onyx (also see agate)

Black, Blue,
Green, Red
• Dyed, resulting in stable
colour
• Impregnated with
colourless
Resin/Polymer
Certain stones may
fade in heat or light.
Note: black chalcedony is
known in the trade as black
onyx.
Opal

Opals with play
of colour: Black,
Semi-black,
White
• Treatment-free
Avoid heat,
cleaners &
repolishing.

Fire Opal, Fire
Opal with Matrix
• Treatment-free
Avoid heat,
cleaners &
repolishing.

Boulder
•
Treatment-free
•
Impregnated with
colourless
Resin/Polymer
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Avoid heat,
cleaners &
repolishing.
xi
Gemstone
Translucent
opals: blue,
green, pink

Dalmatian
• Treatment-free
Special Care
Avoid heat,
cleaners &
repolishing.
• Treatment-free
Avoid heat,
cleaners &
repolishing.
Opal Doublet
Avoid heat,
cleaners &
repolishing.
Opal Triplet
Avoid heat,
cleaners &
repolishing.
Pearl, Cultured Akoya
•
Treatment-free
•
Bleached
•
colour
•
Irradiated
•
Chemical treatment
•
Treatment-free
•
Bleached
•
colour
•
Irradiated
•
Bleached
•
colour
Pearl, Cultured
Freshwater
Pearl, Mabe
(A cultured assembled
product with a cultured
pearl cap.)
Pearl, South Sea
xii
• Treatment Free
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Avoid cosmetics,
household cleaners &
Avoid cosmetics,
Extra Special. Avoid
cosmetics, household
cleaners, ultrasonic
cleaners & sudden
shocks.
Avoid cosmetics,
Gemstone
Special Care
Pearl, Tahitian
• Treatment Free
Avoid cosmetics,
Peridot
• Treatment-free
Avoid sudden
temperature changes,
harsh chemicals, and
Prehnite
•
Treatment-free
Heated
Normal.
Quartz

Green to Yellow, •
Limon, Orange to •
Brown

Pink, Rose

Rutilated

Smoky

Cat's-Eye Quartz

Tiger’s-Eye,
brown

Tiger’s-Eye, red
Irradiated
• Treatment-free
• Treatment-free
Normal.
Avoid cosmetics,
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
Some material may
fade with prolonged
exposure to strong
sunlight.
•
Treatment-free
Normal.
•
Treatment-free
Normal.
•
Chemical bleaching
using acid or bleaching
agents
•
Heated
•
Chemical bleaching
agents
Hawk’s-Eye, blue •
•
•
Normal.
Treatment-free
Normal.
Heated
Chemical bleaching
agents
QVC
©QVC, 2010
xiii
Gemstone
Special Care

Lazulated
•
None

Mint
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Treatment-free
Normal.
•
colour
•
Plated
•
Treatment-free
•
colour
•
Impregnated with
colourless
Resin/Polymer

Cinnamon
Moss Green
Drusy
Quartzite
Normal.
Rhodochrosite
• Treatment-free
Normal.
Rhodonite
• Treatment-free
Normal.
xiv
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Gemstone
Ruby
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Filling of surface cavities
and fractures as a byproduct of heating and
visible under 10 X
magnification.
Special Care
Normal.
NOTE: The vendor is
Purchase Order. The
treatments on the
Form when submitting
any sample to QVC.
Sapphire

Blue, Pink,
Orange, Yellow
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Filling of surface cavities
and fractures as a byproduct of heating and
visible under 10 X
magnification.
Normal.
NOTE: The vendor is
Purchase Order. The
treatments on the
Form when submitting
any sample to QVC.
Serpentine
•
Treatment-free
•
colour
•
Avoid sudden
chemicals and
Impregnated with
resin/polymer
QVC
©QVC, 2010
xv
Gemstone
Shell, abalone and
other
Sodalite
•
Treatment-free
•
colour
•
Impregnated with
resin/polymer
•
Treatment-free
•
Dyed
Special Care
Avoid sudden
cosmetics, chemicals
and ultrasonic
cleaners.
Avoid sudden
temperature changes
•
Impregnated with
resin/polymer
Spinel
•
Treatment-free
Normal.
Sugilite
• Treatment-free
Normal.
Sunstone
• Treatment-free
Avoid use of
Tanzanite (Zoisite)
• Heated
Avoid sudden
temperature changes
Topaz

Blue
• Heated
•

Chrome Green,
Cat’s-Eye
Yellow / Orange,
Pink
Green/Blue
(Teal)
Indicolite (deep,
vivid green-blue)
Red & Purple
Rubellite (deep,
vivid purple-red)
Turquoise
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Irradiated
•
QVC accepts only
Colourless oil
See table below for details
on acceptable and
unacceptable treatments.
•
Unakite
Varisite
•
Treatment-free
Treatment-free
Normal.
Normal.
Normal.
Normal.
Normal.
Normal, or when oil
treated, avoid
steaming, chemicals
and ultrasonic
cleaners.
Avoid exposing
turquoise jewellery to
hot water, household
cleaners.
Normal.
Avoid exposing
varisite jewellery to
hot water, household
cleaners.
Zircon
QVC
©QVC, 2010
xvii
Gemstone

Green, Brown
Light Brown
Blue, Yellow
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
•
Treatment-free
•
Heated
This chart reflects
treatments that QVC
accepts for the
specific gemstones
listed.
xviii
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Special Care
Avoid harsh
abrasives.
Avoid harsh
abrasives.
Avoid harsh
abrasives.
Turquoise
Unacceptable Treatment
•
Treatment-free
•
Natural turquoise impregnated
with colourless resin or plastic, as
long as the gemmological
properties of natural turquoise are
not altered (impregnated natural
turquoise with the gemmological
•
properties of turquoise, including a
Refractive Index of at least 1.590,
•
but not over 1.660*)
•
•
Natural turquoise treated with
Proprietary Zachery Method, as
long as the gemmological
properties of natural turquoise are
not altered
Natural turquoise impregnated
with excessive wax such that
when the turquoise is held to a hot
point, the wax melts, expands,
and liquefies on the surface of the
stone.
Natural turquoise that is dyed or
has any other colour treatment
Very porous natural turquoise that
is heavily impregnated with a high
percentage of either a colourless
resin or plastic, which alters the
gemmological properties of the
material such as the Refractive
Index of less than 1.590*.
•
Any simulated matrix
•
Natural turquoise coated with any
foreign material
•
Any manufactured product that
imitates or is meant to represent
turquoise
•
Any rock, including dyed and
heavily impregnated rock
consisting of natural turquoise and
other minerals
*Any material with a Refractive Index that is outside the range of 1.590 to
1.660 is not acceptable. However, a Refractive Index within the range does
not guarantee that the material is acceptable. Other gemmological proofs
must confirm that the material is acceptable.
© 2010 QVC. All rights reserved. All trademarks, service marks and logos are
owned by or registered to QVC, Diamonique Corporation. All other product or
brand names are trademarks of their respective owners
QVC
©QVC, 2010
xix
Appendix E: Acceptable Gemstone Treatments
Appendix E: UN-Acceptable Gemstone Treatments
This Appendix represents those gemstone treatments that QVC UK will NOT accept.
Although there are a number of treatments commonly allowed by the jewellery industry, QVC
accepts only those listed in Appendix D.
Gemstone
Un-Acceptable
Treatment
Special Care
Agate (also see onyx)
Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, films &
other applied substances or baked
films.
Wipe with a damp soft cloth only.
Alexandrite
Oiling with colorless or colored oil.
Impregnated with wax, natural resin,
or manmade material.
Wipe with soft damp cloth only.
Amazonite
films.
Amber - All Colors
films.
Dyed.
Amethyst
Infilling with glass, plastic or resins.
Diffusion using chemicals combined
with heat. Dyed.
Wipe with damp soft cloth only.
Ametrine
Dyed.
Ammolite
Andalusite
films.
Apatite
films.
Dyed.
Aquamarine
xx
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Gemstone
Un-Acceptable
Treatment
Special Care
Dyed.
Aventurine, Green
films.
Dyed.
Beryl
Dyed.
Calcite
Coating with lacquer, ink, foil, film or
films.
Carnelian
films.
Cat's-eye Quartz
films.
Chalcedony (often
called agate or onyx)
films.
Chrome Diopside
Dyed.
Chrysoberyl
Dyed.
Normal for all varieties listed.
Chrysoprase
films.
Dyed.
Citrine
Dyed.
Coral
films.
Avoid chemicals, cosmetics & ultrasonic
cleaners.
Coral, Sponge
films.
Avoid chemicals, cosmetics & ultrasonic
cleaners.
QVC
©QVC, 2010
xxi
Gemstone
Un-Acceptable
Treatment
Special Care
Diamond, Natural
Color – white,
champagne, yellow
QVC does not accept color or clarity
treatments for natural diamonds with
natural color.
Diamond, Treated
color - yellow, green,
blue, black, pink,
green, and fancy hues
QVC does not accept clarity
treatments for color-treated natural
diamonds.
Drusy Quartz
films.
Emerald
films.
Dyed.
Penetration of fissures with colored
oil, wax or resin.
Avoid temperature changes, steaming,
chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.
Fluorite
films.
Garnet
films.
Hematite
films.
Howlite
films.
Diffusion using heat and chemicals.
Jade, Jadeite
films.
Wipe with a damp cloth only.
Jade, Nephrite
films.
Jasper
films.
Jet
films.
Kyanite
films.
Dyed.
xxii
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Gemstone
Un-Acceptable
Treatment
Special Care
Labradorite
films.
Dyed.
Lapis Lazuli - Denim
Lapis
films.
Malachite
films.
Dyed.
Avoid chemicals & ultrasonic cleaners.
Moonstone - All
Colors
films.
Dyed.
Morganite (Pink
Beryl)
Dyed.
Mother-of-pearl
films.
Mother-of-pearl
Watch Dial
Coating with ink or foil.
Obsidian
films.
Onyx (see also agate)
films.
Opal
films.
Impregnated with colorless oil, wax,
and resins.
Dyed.
Pearl - Cultured
Akoya, Cultured
Freshwater
films.
Peridot
QVC
©QVC, 2010
xxiii
Gemstone
Un-Acceptable
Treatment
Special Care
Dyed.
Prehnite
films.
Dyed.
Quartz
films.
Quartz - Cat's-eye,
Tiger's-eye, Hawk'seye, Drusy
films.
Quartzite
films.
Rhodochrosite
films.
Dyed.
Rhodolite Garnet
films.
Rhodonite
films.
Dyed.
Wipe with a damp soft cloth only. Avoid
Ruby
Intentional filling of surface cavities
and fractures with a foreign material,
including glass and easily visible
under 10 X magnification.
Oiling with colorless or colored oil,
wax, natural resin, or manmade
material.
Dyed with colored oil.
Irradiation.
Fracture fillings in ruby are fragil. Avoid
repolishing or recutting. Avoid chemicals
Sapphire - All Colors
Intentional filling of surface cavities
and fractures with a foreign material,
including glass and easily visible
under 10 X magnification.
material.
Dyed with colored oil.
Irradiation.
Fracture fillings in sapphire are fragil.
Avoid repolishing or recutting. Avoid
QVC UK does not accept
Beryllium treatment
xxiv
QVC
©QVC, 2010
Gemstone
Un-Acceptable
Treatment
Special Care
Sard
films.
Shell - Abalone and
Other
films.
Sodalite
films.
Spinel
films.
Dyed.
Sugilite
films.
Dyed.
Wipe with soft damp cloth only
Sunstone
films.
Dyed.
Tanzanite (Zoisite)
films.
Dyed.
Topaz - All Colors
material for all colors listed.
Infilling with glass, plastic or resins
for all colors listed.
Tiger's-eye Quartz,
Brown, Red
films.
Tourmaline
Oiling with colored oil, wax, natural
resin, or manmade material for all
colors listed.
Diffusion using chemicals combined
with heat.
Dyed.
Turquoise
Impregnated with colorless oil or
wax.
Painted or lacquered with black lines.
Avoid exposing turquoise jewelry to hot
water & household chemicals. Very
special care required. Wipe gently with
QVC
©QVC, 2010
xxv
Gemstone
Un-Acceptable
Treatment
Special Care
Dyed.
soft damp cloth only.
Unakite
films.
Varisite
films.
Zircon - All colors
material for all colors listed.
xxvi
QVC
©QVC, 2010