McCALL`S - PrintSew

3789 McCALL'S
®
PATTERN MARKINGS
ADJUST IF NECESSARY
CUTTING AND MARKING
GRAINLINE: Place on straight grain of fabric, an even distance
from selvage or fold
A pattern is made to fit body measurements, with extra ease for comfort and
style. Adjust pieces before placing on
fabric. Adjust back waist, sleeve and
finished garment lengths using
McCALL’s Easy-Rule Guide.
SHRINK FABRIC not labeled pre-shrunk. Press.
CIRCLE LAYOUT for View, Size, Fabric Width.
Use WITH NAP layout for fabrics with one-way designs, nap, pile or surface
shading. Because most knits have surface shading, a with nap layout is used.
For DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITH FOLD) - fold fabric with Right Sides
Together.
TO SHORTEN:
Crease on Easy-Rule
Guide. Fold necessary amount. Tape in
place.
DOUBLE THICKNESS (WITHOUT FOLD) - For
fabrics with nap, fold fabric crosswise, RIGHT SIDES
TOGETHER. Mark as shown. Cut along crosswise fold
of fabric (A). Turn upper layer 180° so arrows go in
same direction and place over lower layer, RIGHT
SIDES TOGETHER (B).
TO LENGTHEN: Cut
on dotted lines of
Easy-Rule Guide.
Spread necessary
amount. Tape over
paper.
For SINGLE THICKNESS - place fabric Right Side Up.
Before CUTTING place all pieces on fabric according to layout. Overlap
margins. Pin.
Cut ACCURATELY through fabric and pattern on cutting line. Cut notches
outward.
When Easy-Rule Guide is not on tissue,
lengthen or shorten at lower edge.
BEFORE REMOVING PATTERN, transfer markings to Wrong Side of fabric.
Two ways which may be used quickly are the Pin and Chalk Pencil method or
Tracing Paper and Dressmaker Wheel.
FOLD LINE: Place on fold of fabric.
Place on fold
FRONT
CUTTING LINE: For cutting.
SEAM LINE: For stitching.
SEAM ALLOWANCE: Distance between cutting and seam lines,
usually 5/8” (1.5cm). On multi-sized patterns seam allowance is
included, but not printed on tissue.
NOTCHES AND SYMBOLS: For matching pattern pieces.
A
FINISHED GARMENT MEASUREMENT SYMBOL: The finished
garment measurements at bust and/or hip are printed on your
Front pattern pieces. The measurement includes Body
Measurement + Wearing Ease + Design Ease. The
measurement excludes pleats, tucks, darts and seam allowances.
Measurements are also printed on the back of the pattern
envelope when space is available.
46” (117cm)
B
LAYOUT NOTES
Pattern pieces may interlock more closely for smaller sizes.
This McCall pattern may have cutting lines for several
sizes. Select the proper cutting line or pattern pieces for
your size.
∗
If pattern is petite-able, layouts illustrated are suitable for
corresponding Petite sizes.
B
A
★ Cut other pieces first, allowing enough fabric to cut this
piece. Open fabric. For “Cut 1” pieces, cut piece once on
single layer of fabric with piece face up on right side of
fabric. For “Cut 2” pieces, cut piece twice on single layer of
fabric, once with piece face up and once with piece face
down on right side of fabric.
CUTTING LAYOUTS
A
A OR B - CONTINUED
NOTE: Pattern pieces may interlock more closely for smaller sizes.
E
C
C
D
BACK
E
D
C
A
IMPORTANT: For layouts marked “
TOGETHER, so nap runs in one direction.
*
“, cut two pieces of fabric; place one layer over the other, RIGHT SIDES
*
NOTE: This McCall pattern has cutting lines for several sizes. Select the proper cutting line or pattern pieces for your size.
View A - use pieces 1 thru 4
View B - use pieces 1 thru 4, 8
B
60” (150cm)
fabric
with nap or
without nap
sizes 3/4, 5/6, 7/8
3
1
4
2
2
ROBE
A OR B
SELVAGES
*
SELVAGES
3
8
8
4
2
1
2
15 PATTERN PIECES
45” thru 54”
(115 thru 140cm)
fabric
with nap or
without nap
sizes 3/4, 5/6, 7/8
4
4
SELVAGES
1
1
SELVAGES
ROBE A OR B
sizes small, medium, large, xlarge
*
1. FRONT AND BACK
2. YOKE FRONT
3. YOKE BACK
4. SLEEVE
8. HOOD B
HAT A
3
8
4
4
*
SELVAGES
2
8
TUNIC AND BELT C
2
2
sizes small, medium, large
5. BRIM
6. HAT
7. BELT
9. FRONT
10. BACK
11. FRONT NECK FACING
12. BACK NECK FACING
13. SLEEVE
SELVAGES
2
1
1
FOLD
4
4
3
1
1
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
3
PANTS D OR E
FOLD
SELVAGES
14. FRONT
15. BACK
size xlarge
A
*
2
4
1
SELVAGES
54” thru 72”
(140 thru 180cm)
felt
all sizes
2
SELVAGES
4
Interfacing
EDGES
use pieces 5, 6
5
25” (64cm)
all sizes
5
1
6
FOLD
6
FOLD
3
FOLD
use pieces 5, 6
SELVAGES
8
3
HAT
SELVAGES
PRINTED IN U.S.A.
CONTINUED ON PAGE 2
3789 - PAGE 2 OF 4
C - CONTINUED
CUTTING LAYOUTS - CONTINUED
Interfacing
GLOSSARY
EDGES
use pieces 11, 12
Sewing terms appearing in BOLD TYPE in SEWING
DIRECTIONS are explained below.
11
C
21” thru 25”
(53 thru 64cm)
all sizes
TUNIC
use pieces 9 thru 13
12 FOLD
SELVAGES
45” (115cm)
fabric
with nap or
without nap
sizes 3/4, 5/6, 7/8
9
11
13
10
PANTS
D OR E
SELVAGES
sizes small, medium
9
45” (115cm)
fabric
with nap or
without nap
all sizes
EDGESTITCH - Stitch close to finished edge or seam.
SELVAGES
or
SELVAGES
10
12
11
15
60” (150cm)
fabric
with nap
all sizes
13
FOLD
14
FOLD
Stitch center back seam in remaining front and back sections.
FINISH - Stitch 1/4" (6mm) from raw edge and finish with one
of the following: pink, overcast or turn in along stitching and
stitch close to fold or overlock.
OPTIONAL FOR HEMS: Apply seam binding.
GATHER - Stitch along seamline and again 1/4" (6mm) away
in seam allowance, using long machine stitches. Pull up
bobbin threads when adjusting to fit.
Pin back to front at shoulders, right sides together, matching
notches and triangles. Adjust ease. Baste. Stitch.
SELVAGES
*
SELVAGES
sizes large, xlarge
54” thru 60”
(140 thru 150cm)
fabric
without nap
sizes 3/4, 5/6, 7/8, small
SELVAGES
15
NARROW HEM - Turn in hem. Press, easing in fullness if
necessary. Open out hem. Turn in again so raw edge is along
crease. Press. Turn in along crease. Stitch.
Stitch back to front at sides.
REINFORCE - Stitch along seamline where indicated in
sewing directions, using small machine stitches.
14
SELVAGES
FOLD
13
9
sizes medium, large, xlarge
10
12
11
FOLD
SELVAGES
SELVAGES
14
SELVAGES
9
FOLD
13
11
SLIPSTITCH - (Used to join two folded edges or one folded
edge to a flat surface.) Slide needle through a folded edge;
then pick up a thread from the opposite fold or surface.
STAYSTITCH - Stitch 1/8" (3mm) from seamline in seam
allowance (usually 1/2" [1.3cm] from raw edge).
15
60” (150cm)
fabric
with nap or
without nap
sizes 3/4, 5/6, 7/8
TOPSTITCH - On outside, stitch 1/4" (6mm) from edge, seam
or previous stitching, using presser foot as guide, or stitch
where indicated in instructions.
FABRIC KEY
10
12
FOLD
GATHER upper edge of back.
sizes small, medium
SELVAGES
9
11
SEWING INFORMATION
SEWING DIRECTIONS
13
ROBE A OR B
SEAM ALLOWANCES
10
12
FOLD
*
sizes large, xlarge
SELVAGES
Use 5/8" (1.5cm) seam allowances unless otherwise indicated.
Trim enclosed seam
allowances into layers.
Trim corners.
VIEW A OR B
Finish front edge of one left and one right FRONT AND BACK
(1) section with a NARROW HEM. Press. Remaining sections
will be used for back.
GATHER upper edge of fronts.
13
SELVAGES
Notch outer curves.
Clip inner curves.
9
10
11
12
FOLD
Belt
use piece 7
no layout given
Pin yoke back to back, right sides together, matching
notches. Adjust gathers, keeping gathers away from armhole
seam allowance. Baste. Stitch. Press seam allowances
toward yoke.
EASESTITCH - Stitch along seamline, using long machine
stitches. Pull up thread ends when adjusting to fit. NOTE: For
sleeve caps, make a second row of long machine stitches 1/4"
(6mm) away in seam allowance. for more control.
use pieces 14, 15
12
FOLD
BLINDSTITCH - Turn edge down about 1/4" (6mm). Make a
small diagonal stitch by picking up one thread of garment,
then one thread of hem or facing.
Pin YOKE FRONT (2) to front, right
sides together, matching notches and
hemmed edge of front at circle on
yoke. Adjust gathers, keeping gathers
away from armhole seam allowance.
Baste. Stitch. Press seam allowances
toward yoke.
SELVAGES
PIN AND FIT
Pin or baste seams, RIGHT SIDE TOGETHER, matching
notches. Fit garment before stitching major seams.
PRESS
Press seam allowances flat; then open unless otherwise stated.
Clip where necessary so they lie flat.
EASESTITCH shoulder edge of
YOKE BACK (3) between notch
and triangle.
VIEW A OR B
3789 - PAGE 3 OF 4
EASESTITCH shoulder edge of YOKE BACK (FACING) (3)
between notch and triangle.
Finish lower edge of sleeve with a NARROW HEM. Press.
HAT A
TOPSTITCH neck edge,
connecting with hem
stitching on front.
Fuse INTERFACING to wrong side of BRIM (5) and HAT (6),
following manufacturer's directions.
TOPSTITCH lower edge
of yoke.
HOOD - VIEW B
Stitch center back seam in
HOOD (8). Press seam
allowances to one side.
Pin yoke back facing to YOKE FRONT (FACING) (2) at
shoulders, right sides together, matching notches and triangles.
Adjust ease. Baste. Stitch.
To make darts on each SLEEVE (4) fold right sides together,
matching solid lines and circles. Stitch on solid line. Press
fold of dart toward each other.
Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on lower edges of yoke facings. Cut
pressed-under edges to 3/8" (1cm).
On outside, TOPSTITCH seam.
Stitch center back seam in BRIM (5) and BRIM (FACING) (5).
STAYSTITCH notched edge of brim and facing. Clip to
stitching.
GATHER cap of sleeve
between
small
circles.
EASESTITCH cap between
small circle and notches.
To make darts, fold right sides
together, matching solid lines
and circles. Stitch on solid line.
Press fold of dart toward front
edges.
Finish front edges with a
NARROW HEM. Press.
Pin yoke facing to yoke, right sides together, matching notches
and center backs. Stitch neck edge. Trim seam allowances.
For each sleeve, pin two sleeve sections, matching notches
and darts. Stitch notched edges.
Turn right side out. Press.
STAYSTITCH back neck edge of
robe. Clip to stitching.
With right sides together, pin
sleeve into armhole, matching
notches, underarm and overarm
seams and small circles. Adjust
gathers between small circles and
adjust ease between notch and
small circles. Baste. Stitch. Stitch
again 1/4" (6mm) away in seam
allowance.Trim close to second
stitching. Press seam allowances
flat. Turn seam allowances toward
sleeve.
Press under 5/8" (1.5cm) on notched edge of brim facing.
Pin facing to brim, right sides
together, matching centers.
Stitch un-notched edge. Trim
seam allowances.
Turn right side out. Press.
19
Pin hood to robe at neck edge, right sides together, matching
notches, center backs, dart to shoulder seam and hemmed
edge of hood to circle on yoke. Baste.
Turn facing to inside. SLIPSTITCH pressed-edge over seams.
Baste facing to armholes.
Finish lower edge of robe with a NARROW HEM. Press.
Stitch center seam in hat.
3789 - PAGE 4 OF 4
Pin brim to hat, right sides together,
matching notches and centers.
Stitch, keeping facing free. Trim
seam allowances. Press seam
allowances toward brim.
Stitch center seam in BACK
(10).
Turn facing to inside. Press.
EASESTITCH shoulder
edge of back between notch
and triangle.
TOPSTITCH 1/2" (1.3cm) from
front and neck edges, squaring
stitching 1/2" (1.3cm) below
circle.
Turn up 11⁄4" (3.2cm) hem on lower edge of sleeve and tunic.
Baste close to fold. Turn under 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge and
stitch hem in place. Press.
Stitch front to back at
sides.
EASESTITCH cap of SLEEVE (13) between notches.
SLIPSTITCH pressed edge of
facing over seam.
PANTS D OR E
Pin back to front at shoulders, right sides together, matching
notches and triangles. Adjust ease. Stitch.
BELT
Fold BELT (7) in half lengthwise, right sides together. Stitch,
taking up a 3/8" (1cm) seam allowance and leaving an opening
for turning. Trim corners.
Turn right side out. Press. Turn under 3/8" (1cm) on opening
edges and SLIPSTITCH together.
Trim corners from interfacing as shown. Fuse INTERFACING
to wrong side of FRONT NECK FACING (11) and BACK
NECK FACING (12), following manufacturer's directions.
With right sides together, pin
sleeve to armhole edge,
matching notches, underarm
edges, small circles and large
circle to shoulder seam. Adjust
ease. Baste. Stitch. Stitch again
1/4" (6mm) from first stitching.
Cut seam allowances close to
second stitching. Press seam
allowances flat. Turn seam
allowances toward sleeve.
TUNIC C
Stitch front neck facing to back
neck facing at shoulders.
FINISH un-notched edge of
facing.
Stitch center seam in FRONT
(9) from lower edge to circle.
Pin facing to neck edge, right sides together, matching
notches, centers, seams and circles. Stitch, breaking stitching
at circles. Clip seam allowances at circles. Trim seam
allowances.
To form casing, turn 1 1⁄4"
(3.2cm) to inside on upper
edge of pants. Turn in 1/4"
(6mm) on raw edge. Press.
Stitch, leaving an opening
to insert elastic. Stitch
again close to upper edge.
Cut elastic a comfortable waist
measurement plus 1" (2.5cm). Insert
elastic through casing. Lap ends. Hold
with safety pin. Try on and adjust if
necessary. Stitch ends of elastic
securely.
Pin underarm seam of tunic and sleeve, matching armhole
seams and notches. Stitch.
Stitch center seam in front neck
facing from lower edge to circle.
Stitch FRONT (14) to BACK
(15) at inside leg edges, right
sides together, matching
notches and large circles.
Stitch, stretching back to fit
between large circles.
Baste seam allowances to pants in
casing area for about 3" (7.5cm) for
easier insertion of elastic.
To reinforce underarm curve, stitch again just inside previous
stitching.
Stitch center seam, matching inside leg seams.
Stitch opening in casing,
stretching elastic while stitching.
To reinforce curve, stitch again 3/8" (1cm) from raw edge
between notches. Cut seam allowances close to second
stitching.
Press seam allowances open above notches.
Try on and adjust fullness. Pin at
seams. On outside, stitch across seam
lines in casing area to hold elastic in
place.
Turn up a 11⁄4" (3.2cm) hem on lower
edge. Baste close to fold. Turn under
1/4" (6mm) on raw edge and stitch hem
in place. Press.