Siratro Extract BG

Transcription

Siratro Extract BG

Active and Specialty Ingredients
for Superior and Original Skin Care
AntiAnti-aging / AntiAnti-wrinkle
Whitening / Lightening
AntiAnti-inflammatory
AntiAnti-acne
Moisturizers
Skin Turnover Promotion
Skin Defense / AntiAnti-Stress
AntiAnti-microbial
Slimming
SemiSemi-finished Bases
Original Powder Ingredients
2006-04
.
NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD
1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: [email protected] www.nikkol.co.jp
Complex Moisturization
Natural Active for Synthesis of Hyaluronic Acid
and Other Moisture Factors
NNEW
EW
Marjoram Extract BG
INCI Name: ORIGANUM MAJORANA LEAF EXTRACT; WATER; BUTYLENE GLYCOL.
Marjoram grows in many parts of the world, especially in dry areas. The leafs of
marjoram are used in traditional medicine in anti-inflammatory and pain
relieving preparations.
It is also famous as a spice under the popular name “oregano”.
Efficacy of Marjoram Extract BG
1. Synthesis of hyaluronic acid (moisturization)
2. Synthesis of Aquaporin-3 (moisture flow and cell nutrition)
3. Stimulation of transglutaminase-1 expression (improvement of corneocytes’ condition and skin
barrier)
Synthesis of hyaluronic acid
(Ex-vivo, 3D skin model)
SC
After 9 days after application
of Marjoram Extract BG (1%)
SG
BM
Transglutaminase-1 (TGase-1) is an enzyme
expressed during differentiation of
epidermal keratinocytes. It is essential in the
process of formation of corneofied
envelopes (CE). TGase-1 is a catalyst for
cross linking of CE-related proteins
(involucrin and loricrin), which is an
important step in formation of CE.
Marjoram Extract BG significantly increased
expression of TGase-1 in human
keratinocytes (in vitro).
Marjoram Extract BG (1%)
Synthesis of AQP-3 (%)
Control
Marjoram Extract BG
2010-08
.
Epidermal-Dermal Junction
New approach to deep wrinkles and other signs of aging
NNE
EWW
Siratro Extract BG
Extracted from one the fastest growing plants in the world, Siratro Extract BG
demonstrates a strong stimulation of the synthesis of laminin-5 and collagen type
IV, the main components of the epidermal-dermal junction (EDJ).
The complex linking the dermis with the epidermis plays a critical role in wrinkle
formation. Thus, the EDJ is designed to bind collagen fibers in the upper part of
dermis with the epidermal base membrane, allowing collagen to fulfill its main
function: to support the epidermis and maintain the skin’s elasticity.
If the EDJ is damaged, proper bonding of collagen with epidermis is impaired,
resulting in the formation of deep wrinkles and sagging.
In vitro: increase of laminin-5 production
Laminin-5
production (%)
300
250
**
Ex vivo: increase of collagen type IV in 3D skin
model (after 14 days)
200
150
100
50
0
cont.
Before
Siratro
Extract BG
(1%)
Siratro Extract BG
Control
Siratro Extract
BG (0.5%)
After 1 month
In vivo: improvement of deep wrinkles
(cream with 1% Siratro Extract BG)
Subjects: 10.
Application: Twice daily for 1 month
(eye area).
Evaluation : Replica method.
Placebo
Epidermis
Dermis
Stimulation of synthesis of epidermal-dermal junction
Stimulation of synthesis of epidermal-dermal junction
(EDJ) results in visual improvement of deep wrinkles
(EDJ) results in visual improvement of deep wrinkles
2010.03
.
“True Hydration”: PCA
NNE
EW
W
New mechanism of moisturization: stimulation of
synthesis of PCA (Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) in skin
Mallow Moisture
Mallow Moisture acts
to down-regulate the
production of PGE2
(Prostaglandin E2) in
keratinocytes, and to
suppress inflammation.
PGE2 production (μg/mL)
Mallow Moisture is a natural extract from the flowers of mallow (Malva
sylvestris). In skin care, it demonstrates two important effects: anti-inflammation
(through inhibition of the inflammatory cytokine Prostaglandin E2) and
moisturization (hydration) of the skin through increased PCA synthesis.
300
n=6
* *： p<0.01
250
200
**
150
100
50
UVB(-)
0
0.2
UVB(+)
Mallow Moisture (%)
Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA) is one of the major natural components of skin moisture, as it
makes up approximately 15% of NMF. Mallow Moisture increases the synthesis of PCA in the skin
(+12%) and promotes the restoration of the damaged skin barrier (tested in vivo).
140
1% Mallow Moisture
TEWL (%)
120
100
80
Control
1% Mallow Moisture
Mallow Moisture up-regulated PCA
synthesis by 12%.
Subjects: 7.
Method: Skin was dried and damaged with
surfactant solution. Amount of PCA in
corneocytes was measured by HPLC.
Test sample and control were applied for
14 days.
Control
130
120
11
0
100
*
*:p<0.05
n=10
Day 1
Day 7
Day 14
Mallow Moisture significantly reduced TEWL
in damaged skin already after 1 week.
Subjects: 10.
Method: Skin was dried and damaged with
surfactant solution.
2010-04
.
Melanin Transfer Inhibition
NNE
EWW
New mechanism to treat spots and pigmentation
Artemisia Capillaris Extract BG
This extract from the flowers of Artemisia capillaris demonstrates a strong potential
as a skin lightening active due to its novel mechanism of action: suppression of
melanin uptake into keratinocytes.
×
Melanin uptake into the
keratinocyte is suppressed by
Artemisia Capillaris Extract BG
Pigmentation is
a
result
of
melanin uptake
Melanin is transferred to
keratinocytes through
the dendrite of the
melanocyte
Melanin remains inside the
melanocyte and, as a result,
its production is reduced
Inhibition of melanin uptake by Artemisia Capillaris Extract BG
NHEK Cells
Test
sample
Fluorescent
microspheres
(pseudo-melanin)
Evaluation
24 hours
4 hours
Results:
Control sample.
Large
amounts
of
pseudo-melanin can
be
seen
in
the
epidermal cells.
Artemisia Capillaris
Extract BG (0.67%).
Uptake of pseudomelanin in epidermal
cells is significantly
reduced.
2010.04
.
Pore Size Reduction
Active phospholipid for balanced skin barrier, better cell
differentiation, improvement of tight junction and pore size reduction.
LPA
Enzyme-degradated soybean lecithin
that contains high concentration (2030%) of Lysophosphatidic acid (LPA).
LPA exists in human skin and is an
essential element of cell membrane.
LPA promotes the development of healthy
epidermis by stimulating cell differentiation.
Keratinocyte differentiation is stimulated through
the Ca2+ influx mediated cascade.
LPA also accelerates ceramide synthesis in skin.
LPA stimulates uptake of Ca2+ in the cells. Ca2+ is a
major factor of cell differentiation. LPA up-regulates
uptake of Ca2+ from both Ca2+ channels on cell
membrane and endoplasmic reticulum.
Cell membrane has receptors specifically for LPA.
When LPA attaches to the receptors, Ca2+ uptake
channels become wider letting more Ca2+ inside
the cells.
Increase in intracellular uptake of
Ca2+ in keratinocytes (% of control)
160
140
120
100
*
*
*
*
*
*
80 Control 6.25 12.5 25
LPA (µg/ml)
*
*
*
*
50
100
Fluorescence microscope
0.03 mM Ca2+;
No LPA
Effect of LPA on Ca2+ influx (in-vitro)
0.03 mM Ca2+;
100 µg/ml LPA
(Light blue: Ca2+)
Phase contrast microscope
LPA increases synthesis of
key four proteins of tight
junction (TJ)
Occludin
0.03 mM Ca2+;
No LPA
(Round undifferentiated cells)
NEW
Claudin-1
0.03 mM Ca2+; 100
µg/ml LPA (Cells look
flatter: differentiation
has begun)
Cells
Side view (image)
Top: NHEKs treated with control sample.
Bottom: NHEKs treated with LPA (10 mg/mL).
LPA 2010.03
.
Pore Size Reduction
In-vivo data: LPA improves corneocyte condition and suppresses TEWL
Before
application
After 6 weeks of
application
140.0
Placebo
0.2% LPA
LPA
(0.2%)
Photographs of stripped stratum corneum treated
with 0.2% LPA and control emulsion. The improvement
of stratum corneum condition (due to stimulation of
cell differentiation) can be observed when 0.2% LPA
applied: corneocytes are packed in thin layers and
have hexagonal shape.
TEWL（%）
Control
100.0
**
60.0
20.0
0 week
6 week
In-vivo data: LPA diminishes visible size of pores by 20% due to stimulation of cell differentiation and
improvement of corneocyte condition
Placebo
0.1% LPA
Before
After 4
weeks
Actual image
Processed image
Actual image
Processed image
LPA 2010.03
.
Transparency
NEW
Silver Vine Extract BG30
Brightening for Stratum Corneum:
Recently it was found that decrease in the
skin transparency is induced by protein
carbonylation in the stratum corneum.
Carbonylation makes corneocytes opaque
and enhances their color resulting in “nontransparent skin” and yellowish or grayish
unhealthy appearance.
Silver Vine Extract BG30 effectively inhibits
carbonylation of proteins in corneocytes
(stratum corneum cells).
The in vivo evaluation demonstrated that
“skin transparency index” can be improved
by one point with 1% of Silver Vine Extract
BG30.
In vitro: Inhibition of protein
carbonylation in corneocytes
(carbonylation level is evaluated by
intensity of green fluorescent dye)
Translucent skin
Light is reflected
from inside of the skin
Opaque skin
Decrease in the reflected
light from inside of the skin
In vivo: Improvement of skin transparency
Period: 28 days.
Dosage of Silver Vine Extract BG30: 1%.
Results: Skin transparency index (evaluated by
dermatologist) increased by approximately
one point. Color of the skin became brighter
and skin roughness was improved.
Skin transparency index
Carbonylation level (AU)
0
0.2%
1.0%
175
150
125
100
75
50
25
0
0
0.2%
1.0%
2009-08
.
Collagen Quality Enhancer
NE W
New oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C boosts
HSP47 to improve quality and organization of collagen.
VCE
INCI Name: 3-O-Cetyl Ascorbic Acid.
VCE is an oil-soluble ether of vitamin C. It effectively promotes expression of Heat Shock Protein 47
(HSP47) resulting in improved quality and organization of collagen fibers. Better organization of
collagen provided by VCE increases skin firmness and elasticity.
VCE also effectively boosts synthesis of type I collagen.
Many anti-aging active ingredients focus on
increase of collagen amount in skin. However,
another extremely important aspect is quality of
collagen. it is essential to produce thick and firm
collagen fibers, strong enough to support epidermis
and prevent wrinkle formation.
HSP47 is the main factor of proper collagen synthesis
(molecular chaperone). HSP47 is the protein whose
function is to assist procollagen in achieving proper
folding. HSP47 facilitates productive folding of
procollagen with preventing its aggregation in the
ER (endoplasmic reticulum). Several reports were
made on importance of HSP47 in collagen formation
process.
HSP47 protein（Abs.405/protein)
As HSP47 synthesis decreases with age, VCE, as an
active molecule with ability to increase HSP47, is a
very important ingredient for modern anti-aging skin
care product.
12.0
10.0
8.0
Abnormal
(suppressed HSP47)
Electron microscopic images of
collagen fibers
VCE induces HSP47protein synthesis
(in vitro)
**
* p<0.05
** p<0.01
Normal
*
6.0
4.0
2.0
0.0
0
0
6.2
0.00025
12.5
25
0.0005
0.001
(mmol/L)
(%)
Concentration of VCE
VCE 2007.08
.
Collagen Quality Enhancer
VCE
80.0
VCE induces collagen type
I synthesis (in vitro). The
amount of collagen is
increased due to more
effective procollagen
folding supported by HSP47.
Collagen (ng/mg protein)
70.0
**
** p<0.01
60.0
**
50.0
40.0
**
30.0
20.0
10.0
0.0
0
6.25
0
0.00025
12.5
25
0.0005
0.001
(mmol/L)
(%)
VCE (Concentration)
Schematic illustration of VCE’s mechanism of action
Extra-cell
Intra-cell
Procollagen mRNA
Collagen fibers
Procollagen molecule
VCE
Triple helix
formation
N
C
HSP47
N
Collagen molecule
C
Endoplasmic
Reticulum (ER)
Secretion from cell
VCE 2007.08
.
Ceramide + AQP-3
Extract from the leafs of Glycyrrhiza glabra.
Contains active fraction Genistein, one of
the strongest known whitening actives.
Improves skin elasticity. Strong collagen
synthesis promotion. Promotion of cell
recovery after UV exposure. Clinically tested
(reduction of wrinkles in the corner of the
eye (10%; 32 days). Additional estrogen-like
activity.
Serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT) is the
enzyme that catalyzes the first step of the
biosynthesis of all sphingolipids (including
ceramides).
Stimulating SPT increases ceramide
production in human skin.
Promotion of SPT mRNA Expression (%)
Phyto-elastisizer BG
Effect on SPT mRNA expression in
normal human keratonocytes
126.8 ±11.6
150
108.8 ±3.9
100
50
0
Control
5
20
Licorice Leaf Extract
(as extract solid) (mg/ml)
Subjects: 10 male and female volunteers.
Lotion containing 1% of PHYTO-ELASTICIZER
BG and placebo lotion were applied twice
daily for 28days to the inner forearm (24mm
x 45mm).
On first and last day of testing corneocytes
were collected by cyanoacrylate resin.
Amount of ceramide extracted from
collected corneocytoes was measured by
TLC method.
Amount of Ceramide (mg/mg)
In vivo test: increase of ceramide content in skin
10
8
+29.4%
6
4
6.91
5.34
2
0
Before
After
1% PHYTO-ELASTICIZER BG
Wrinkle reduction and skin
microrelief improvement
effect.
Test period: 4 weeks.
Concentration: 1%.
Number of subjects: 10.
Application: twice daily.
Before
After
2009-03
.
Ceramide + AQP-3
Boost skin hydration and prevent dry skin by normalizing
intracellular water transfer (Aquaporin-3)
PP--33
Q
Q
AA
Extract from the leafs of Glycyrrhiza glabra. Contains active fraction Genistein, one of the strongest
known whitening actives. Improves skin elasticity. Strong collagen synthesis promotion. Promotion
of cell recovery after UV exposure. Clinically tested (reduction of wrinkles in the corner of the eye
(10%; 32 days). Additional estrogen-like activity.
Increase rate
ofAQP3 mRNA (%)
Effect on AQP-3 mRNA expression in normal human keratonocytes
+14.9%
120
100
80
60
Control
(0.2%)
2009-02
.
Anti-Aging / Anti-Wrinkle
In this section we proudly present active ingredients which improve wrinkles, make
skin more elastic and provide healthier and younger look. Their mechanisms of
action include promotion of collagen synthesis, suppression of collagenase,
improvement of cell viability, protection of skin cells’ DNA from UV light and
oxidative stress.
Primary Ingredients
Tocoretinate-10
Star Fruit Extract
BG30
Botanical ingredients are marked :
Caprylic/capric triglyceride solution containing 10% of an
ester of retinoic acid and natural vitamin E. Effectively
reduces skin wrinkles at 1% concentration (clinically tested).
Promotes collagen synthesis. Scavenges active oxygen
species. Does not release retinoic acid due to the
resistance to breakdown by esterase. Low skin irritation
potential.
Extract from the leafs of Star Fruit (Averrhoa Carambola).
Strong collagen synthesis promotion. Clinically tested
(improvement of skin elasticity and wrinkle reduction (1%; 30
days).
Himalayan
Raspberry
Extract BG80
Derived from the roots of Himalayan Raspberry from Nepal.
Contains Kaji-Ichigoside F1, a strong anti-wrinkle active
ingredient. Remarkable promotion of fibroblast proliferation.
Skin moisture retention effect provides smoother skin without
sagging. Clinically tested (in-vivo): visible improvement of
facial wrinkles in 21 days; 1%.
Extract from the leafs of Glycyrrhiza glabra. Contains active
fraction Genistein, one of the strongest known whitening
actives. Improves skin elasticity. Strong collagen synthesis
promotion. Promotion of cell recovery after UV exposure.
Clinically tested (reduction of wrinkles in the corner of the
eye (10%; 32 days). Additional estrogen-like activity.
VC-IP
Unique oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Reduces UVinduced cell/DNA damage.
Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging. Revitalizing
effect on cells. Promotion of collagen synthesis. Inhibition of
activity of collagen degrading enzymes MMP-2 and MMP-9.
Updated: 2004-11
.
This additional section contains the images / results received in in-vivo clinical trials
using our major anti-aging actives.
Appendix: In-Vivo Test Results
Tocoretinate-10
Wrinkle reduction effect (replica).
Test period: 90 days.
Concentration: 1%.
Before
After
Before
After
Before
After
Star Fruit Extract BG30
Concentration: 1%.
Himalayan Raspberry
Extract BG80
Concentration: 1%.
Concentration: 10%.
Before
After
Updated: 2004-11
.
Oryzalipid
Oryzalipid is a 20% premix of
triterpene alcohol derived from rice.
Triterpene alcohol is derived from
gamma oryzanol by hydrolysis
process and consists mainly of
molecules with pentacyclic structure:
cycloartenol and 24methylcycloartenol.
cycloartenol
24-methylcycloartenol
Triterpene alcohol exhibits a strong collagen synthesis promotion activity in skin and can be effectively
used as anti-aging / anti-wrinkle / lifting active ingredient.
Oryzalipid melts at around 60 degrees Celsius: low melting point makes it easy to incorporate triterpene
alcohol in the formulation.
Oryzalipid prevents crystallization of triterpene alcohol in the formulation (crystallization was not
observed in the cream with 2% Oryzalipid kept at -5 degrees Celsius for 4 months).
In-vivo Evaluation: Wrinkle Improvement Effect
Cream with 3% Oryzalipid was tested on human subjects for short-term wrinkle improvement (1; 2
and 3 weeks). Application: twice daily (morning / night). Control: placebo cream.
2-Dimension images
Subject A
Placebo
0w
2w
3w
Subject B
3% Oryzalipid
Placebo
3% Oryzalipid
0w
1w
2w
Sensory Evaluation: Instant Lifting / Skin Firming Effect
40% of subjects of in-vivo wrinkle test experienced improvement in skin firmness, skin elasticity and
lifting effect within 1 week from the beginning of test.
2007-05
.
Additional Ingredients
Caprylic/capric triglyceride solution containing 10% of
hydrogenated retinol.
Hydrogenated retinol is remarkably stable against light,
oxidation and high temperatures, compared to pure retinol.
Promotes hyaluronic acid synthesis in skin.
Low skin irritation potential. Recommended dosage: 1.0%
Hyaluronic Acid (%)
110
Production of
Retinol H10
100
90
80
0
1.563
3.125
6.250
Concentration Hydrogenated Retinol
(mmol/L)
Figure 1: NIKKOL Retinol H10’s ability to accelerate the
production of hyaluronic acid
Updated: 2005-12
.
Alpinia Leaf Extract
BG
Derived from the leaf of Alpinia Speciosa. Contains
strong anti-wrinkle active constituents. Promotes
collagen synthesis, prevents degradation of collagen
and accelerates growth of fibroblast cells. Estrogen-like
activity.
Angelica Extract BG
This extract derived from leafs of Angelica Keiskei has
lately become a popular ingredient for anti-aging skin
care. Contains Luteolin-7-O-Glucoside, flavonoids and
vitamins. Superior cell revitalizing and moisturizing
effect. Remarakable promotion of collagen and
hyaluronic acid synthesis.
Mallotus Bark Extract BG
Derived from the bark of a plant Mallotus from Nepal.
Clinically tested (in-vivo): suppression of UV-induced
wrinkle formation. Collagen synthesis promotion.
Protects elasticity and moisture content of skin
against UV irradiation.
Machilus Bark Extract
BG
Extract from the bark of Machilus grown in the
Himalayas. Suppresses collagen decomposition by
inhibiting collagenase activity. Increases moisture
retention of skin. Improvement of skin barrier
functions.
Citrus Extract Complex
BG
Unique blend of three types of citrus extracts designed
to improve skin turnover. Keratinocyte proliferation
effect. Clinically tested: promotion of skin turnover
(7 days; 1%).
Turmeric Extract BG
This traditional Japanese extract is an essential part of
modern anti-aging product. Strong inhibition of
gelatinase, one of collagen decomposition factors.
Additional anti-inflammatory activity.
Tiencha Extract BGW
Extracted from leafs of a famous Japanese tea plant.
Contains ellagitannin polymers, rubusoside and other
active constituents. Remarkable collagenase
suppression effect. Additional SOD-like activity and
anti-inflammatory effect. Tea related marketing
concepts make Tiencha a welcomed guest of antiwrinkle regimen.
Updated: 2004-11
.
Fighting pigmentation, spots and freckles is an essential part of modern skin care
regimen. Nikko Chemicals is well recognized as a specialist in skin lightening care.
Our wide range of superior actives for skin lightening includes ingredients with
various mechanisms of action. In-vitro and in-vivo clinical data is available for most
of our products.
Primary Ingredients
VC-IP
Unique oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Inhibits activity of intracellular tyrosinase
and melanogenesis. Reduces UV-induced cell/DNA damage.
Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging. Remarkable heat- and oxidationstability.
Revitalizing effect on cells. Clinically tested. Currently under application for
quasi-drug status in Japan. Registered in Korea as a functional ingredient for
skin lightening at 2% concentration.
VC-PMG
A water-soluble vitamin C derivative. Excellent stability in heat and light. Shows
vitamin C activity after being decomposed by enzymes in the body.
Approved as a whitening agent in Japan and Korea (3%); active ingredient for
quasi-drugs.
Licorice
Extract
P-T (40)
Extract from the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra. Contains 35-45% of Glabridin, one
of the strongest known whitening actives. Inhibits tyrosinase and melanin
synthesis. Approved as a whitening agent in Korea (0.05%). Clinically tested in
Japan. Available in powder form and as an aqueous solution (Aqua Licorice
Extract P-T). Licorice Extract P-TH with reduced content of Glabridin (15-25%) is
also available.
Mulberry
Extract BG
Extracted from roots of Mulberry (Kuwa). Sohakuhi (dried root bark of Mulberry)
is a famous treatment traditionally used in Chinese medicine. Rich in
phenylflavones and contains strong whitening active (Kuwanon). Antityrosinase and melanin inhibition effects. Exhibits additional anti-inflammatory
activity. Available as butylene glycol solution. Widely used in skin lightening
products in many Asian countries.
Burnet
Extract BG
Derived from roots of Burnet, small plant grown in China, Korea and Japan.
Rich in sanguinin and tomentosolic acid. Remarkable anti-tyrosinase effect:
70% inhibition with only 5% of extract. Strong SOD-like and anti-inflammatory
activity. Available as an easy-to-use butylene glycol solution.
Updated: 2005-09
.
This additional section contains the images / results of in-vivo clinical trials using our
major skin lightening actives.
VC-IP
Unique oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Inhibits activity of intracellular tyrosinase and melanogenesis.
Reduces UV-induced cell/DNA damage.
Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging. Remarkable heat- and oxidation-stability.
Revitalizing effect on cells. Clinically tested. Currently under application for quasi-drug status in
Japan. Registered in Korea as a functional ingredient for skin lightening at 2% concentration.
Reduction of UV-induced
pigmentation.
Concentration: 2%.
Before
After 56 days
Control
VC-IP (2%)
Pigmentation reduction effect.
Test period: 16 weeks.
Concentration: 10%.
Result: complete removal of
pigmentation (age spot).
Before
After
Updated: 2005-08
.
Primary Ingredients
Plant Extract
Complex BG
<White>
Blend of three botanical extracts with strong synergistic skin
lightening effect. Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice flavonoid) inhibits
tyrosinase and melanin synthesis. Scutellaria root extract is able
to suppress release of Endothelin-1 (one of pigmentation
inducing factors). Jujube extract promotes skin turnover and
desquamation.
Clinically tested in Japan.
Clinical evaluation of skin
lightening effect. Reduction of
UV-induced pigmentation.
Plant Extract
Complex BG
<White>
Concentration: 1%.
Placebo
Before
After 26 days
Updated: 2005-12
.
Antipollon-HT
Clinical evaluation of skin
lightening effect.
Female, 45 years old.
Treatment with peeling
preparation and milky lotion /
pack with Antipollon-HT.
Test period: 48 days
Before
After 48 days
Licorice Extract
P-T (40)
Reduction of UV-induced
pigmentation by Stearyl
Glycyrrhetinate (0.1%; before
irradiation) and Licorice Extract
P-T(40) (0.05%; after irradiation).
A
B
A
B
A: Placebo
B: SG / Placebo
C: Placebo / P-T(40)
D: SG / P-T(40)
C
D
After 1 week
C
D
After 5 weeks
Updated: 2005-08
.
Evening
Primrose
Extract-P
Extracted from seeds of Evening Primrose. Contains minimum 60%
polyphenol compounds such as gallic acid, ellagic acid,
pentagalloylglucose and catechin. Extremely strong anti-oxidant activity
and excellent tyrosinase inhibitory effect. Superior substitute to arbutin
and kojic acid.
Purple
Rice
Extract-PC
Rich in anthocyanine glycosides such as chrysanthemin (Cyanidin-3glucoside) that are not contained in other types of rice. Tyrosinase
inhibition effect. Inhibition of melanin formation. Synergistic skin
lightening effect with vitamin C derivatives. SOD-like activity and DPPH
radical scavenging effect.
Indian Dates
Extract BG
This extract derived from seed coats of Indian Dates (Tamarindus)
contains large amounts of polyphenols, including condensed
proanthocyanidine and acts as a strong anti-oxidant. Superior singlet
oxygen scavenging effect. Inhibition of tyrosinase activity.
Clove
Extract BG
A very popular component of lightening skin care in Japan. Strong
scavenger of radical oxygen species. SOD-like activity. Suppression of
SCF (stem cell factor, one of melanin synthesis factors); prevention of
growth of endothelin receptors.
Black Tea
Extract BG
Trendy and fashionable ingredient for a whitening series. Strong antioxidant. Suppresses Melanocyte Stimulating Hormones (MSH),
activators of tyrosinase. Widely used in Japan as additional active in
combination with vitamin C derivatives.
Arnica
Extract
Extracted from flowers of Arnica Montana. Shows superior inhibition of
melanin synthesis, comparable to Licorice extracts.
Antipollon-HT
Fine grained synthetic aluminum silicate. Clinically proven
effects: pigmentation reduction, treatment of naevus
nevocellularis and chloasma. Superior whitening ingredient for
pack / mask type products and peeling formulations.
Updated: 2005-08
.
Anti-inflammatory
Our range of anti-inflammatory and irritation reducing ingredients contains superior
actives, mainly of botanical origin. We offer various clinically tested materials: from
licorice derivatives to well accepted actives, such as Shiso (Perilla) extract and 100%
natural Bisabolol. Lecinol S-10 is an emulsifier with unique anti-irritation properties: it
helps to prepare elegant emulsions and contributes to formulation’s safety.
Primary Ingredients
Dipotassium
Glycyrrhizinate
Water-soluble active derived from licorice roots. Clinically tested in
Japan and approved as a quasi-drug ingredient. Essential
component of most skin care products in Japan.
Reduces irritation and inflammation. Inhibits histamine release and
hyaluronidase. Suppresses UV-induced erythema.
Stearyl
Glycyrrhetinate
Oil-soluble fraction of licorice. Superior anti-irritation and antiinflammatory properties. Clinically tested (prevention of UV-induced
skin damage). Approved as an ingredient for quasi-drugs
in Japan.
Lecinol S-10
Hydrogenated lecithin derived from soya. Contains 25-30% of
Phosphatidyl Choline. Natural emulsifier with anti-inflammatory
properties. Effectively reduces irritation. Decreases irritation potential
of other surfactants. Enhances anti-inflammatory properties of oilsoluble actives (e.g. Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate).
Shiso Extract NA
Extract from the leafs of Perilla.
Contains glucoside proven to
possess anti-inflammatory properties.
Anti-allergenic effect. Inhibition of
TNF induction activity. Clinical
evaluation in-vivo: improvement of
allergic dermatitis (3%; 8 weeks;
improvement: 80%). Recommended
dosage to maintain healthy and
natural skin: 0.5-3%.
Before
After 8
weeks
Scutellaria Root
Extract BG
Extracted from the roots of Scutellaria baicalensis. Contains strong
anti-inflammatory actives: baicalin and baicalein. Superior antihyaluronidase effect. SOD-like activity. Suppression of allergic
reactions.
Natural Bisabolol
Obtained from direct distillation of Candeia’s (Vanillomopsis
Erythropapa) essential oil. Contains minimum 95% of (-)-alpha bisabolol isomer (L-alpha-bisabolol). Strong anti-irritation and antiinnflammatory properties. Reduces skin dryness. Four times more
effective than synthetic bisabolol.
Updated: 2004-11
.
Anti-inflammatory
Kukui Nut Oil
Rich emollient oil from nuts of Kukui tree grown in Hawaii.
Effectively slows transepidermal water loss and assists in
treatment of burns, eczema and psoriasis. Provides elegant
non-greasy feel to the formulation.
Whitch Hazel
Extract BG
Derived from leafs of Hamamelis virginiana. Strong inhibitor of
hyaluronidase activity. Anti-oxidant. SOD-like activity.
Artemisia Capillaris
Extract BG
Extract derived from capitulum of Artemisia. A trendy
ingredient for contemporary skin care. Contains terpene
compounds, tannin and chlorogenic acid. Inhibits activity of
hyaluronidase and suppresses allergenic reactions. Additional
anti-tyrosinase and anti-microbial effects.
Olive Leaf Extract
BG
This extract exhibits a whole range of anti-irritation effects:
inhibition of platelet aggregation, suppression of
hexosaminidase release and anti-oxidant activity.
Butcher Broom
Extract BG
Extracts from the roots of Ruscus aculeatus. Contains saponin,
ruscin, ruscoside. Anti-inflammatory, anti-allergy and cell
growth activation effects. Prevention of platelet aggregation.
SOD-like activity.
Mulberry Extract BG
Extracted from roots of Morus Alba (Kuwa). Sohakuhi (dried
root bark of Mulberry) is a famous treatment traditionally used
in Chinese medicine. Rich in phenylflavones and contains
strong whitening active (Kuwanon). Anti-inflammatory
property: carageenan / dextran edema suppression.
Turmeric Extract BG
This traditional Japanese extract Is made from rhizome of
curcuma longa Linne and contains curcumin as a main active
component. Superior anti-inflammatory activities: inhibition of
phospholipase A2, inhibition of platelet aggregation.
Green Tea Extract
BG
Extract form the leafs of Japanese green tea plant Camelia
Sinensis. Rich with polyphenols and catechin. Demonstrates
remarkable inhibition of hyaluronidase activity. Radical
scavenging effect. A trendy ingredients for a natural
product line.
Updated: 2004-11
.
Anti-inflammatory
Natural Emulsifier for Sensitive Skin Care
Lecinol S-10
Hydrogenated lecithin derived from soy bean. Contains 25-30% of Phosphatidyl Choline. Natural
emulsifier with anti-inflammatory properties. Effectively reduces irritation. Decreases irritation potential
of other surfactants. Enhances anti-inflammatory properties of oil-soluble actives (e.g. Stearyl
Glycyrrhetinate). Emulsions made with Lecinol S-10 enhance percutaneous of active ingredients.
Prevention of corneocytes’ damage
caused by Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Closed patch (SLS: 5%); after 72 hours.
Microscope photograph of
corneocytes.
Lecinol S-10 protects stratum corneum
from damage by strong detergents.
Non-treated cells
Anti-stinging effect (in vivo)
NEW
DATA
Cells treated with
1% Lecinol S-10
Anti-inflammatory effect: inhibition of
Prostaglandin E2 (in vitro)
Before
Average stinging score
Weak
Strong
3
2
After 1 week
application of
Lecinol S-10
(1.0%)
1
Water
0.1%
methylparaben
solution
Application of Lecinol S-10 at 1.0% significantly
reduced average stinging score against
methylparaben solution (after 1 week; n=13).
Control:
Water
0.1% MP sol.
Number of subjects who showed
reduction of stinging score after 1 week
application of Lecinol S-10 (1.0%)
1 (8%)
7 (54%)
2009-12
.
Texture Modifier / Stabilizer
Alkyl Glyceryl Ether with Anti-inflammatory Effect
Batyl Alcohol EX / Batyl Alcohol 100
Emollient and emulsifier. Effectively thickens emulsions at very low concentrations. Series of tests
proved that Batyl Alcohol has inhibitory effects on release of inflammatory cytokines, interleukin1α(IL-1α) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), produced by UVB-irradiated keratinocytes.
In the skin care formulation Batyl Alcohol performs three functions: it improves texture, increases
stability and provides anti-inflammatory / anti-stress / DNA protecting effects. Recommended
dosage: 0.2 ~ 1.0%.
Effect on UVB-induced DNA damage
250
Tail length (mm)
*
**
Control (not
irradiated)
200
150
100
UVB
Control
0
10
UVB
irradiation
Batyl
Alcohol
(mM)
UVB + 10 mM
Batyl Alcohol
Suppression of UV-induced
inflammation
(Minimal erythema dose (MED) in
humans )
MED
(ratio of non-application-site)
NHKs were pretreated with Batyl Alcohol for 24 hours and then irradiated by UVB. The DNA damage
after 2 hours from UVB irradiation was evaluated by COMET Assay. Tail length shows amount of
damaged / fragmented DNA in nuclei. Nuclei treated with Batyl Alcohol showed significantly less
DNA damage.
1.40
1.30
1.20
1.10
1.00
0.90
0.80
Non-application
Placebo
1 % Batyl Alcohol
2006-04
.
Anti-acne
This section presents active agents and other ingredients recommended for a fine
anti-acne product. Our actives are safe and clinically tested in Japan.
Primary Ingredients
Licorice Extract P-U
Extract from the roots of Glycyrrhiza inflata.
Contains 15% of Licochalcone A, a strong antiacne active. Inhibits 5-alpha reductase and
androgen receptor activity. Suppresses lipase and
phospholipase A2. Anti-microbial effect against
acne inducing bacteria. Clinically tested in Japan:
55% improvement after 4 weeks at concentration
0.1%. Available in powder form and as an
aqueous solution (Aqua Licorice Extract P-U).
Before
After 4
weeks
VC-IP
Unique oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Strong
skin lightening / clarifying agent and antioxidant. Clinically tested in Japan: 80%
improvement in 2-4 months. Reduces acne
along with removal of pigmentation, spots and
freckles.
Before
After 9
weeks
Takallophane
Fine grained synthetic aluminum silicate.
Clinically tested: visibly reduces acne after 2-4
months at 2.5% concentration. Superior
ingredient for anti-acne pack / mask type
products, milky lotions and peeling formulations.
Recommended dosage: 2 – 5%.
Before
After 8
weeks
Updated: 2004-11
.
Anti-acne
Dipotassium
Glycyrrhizinate
Water-soluble active derived from licorice roots. Clinically
tested in Japan and approved as a quasi-drug ingredient.
Essential component of most skin care products in Japan.
Reduces irritation and inflammation. Inhibits histamine release
and hyaluronidase. Suppresses UV-induced erythema.
Lecinol S-10
Hydrogenated lecithin derived from soya. Contains 25-30% of
Phosphatidyl Choline. Natural emulsifier with antiinflammatory properties. Effectively reduces irritation.
Decreases irritation potential of other surfactants. Enhances
anti-inflammatory properties of oil-soluble actives (e.g. Stearyl
Glycyrrhetinate). Skin-friendly and safe surfactant solution for
an anti-acne formula.
Nikkolipid 81S
Lipid complex with emulsifying property; superior affinity and
compatibility with skin; anti-inflammatory and moisturizing
effects; improves rough skin by enhancing skin’s barrier
function.
Batyl Alcohol
Emollient and emulsifier. Effectively thickens emulsions at very
low concentrations. Series of tests proved that Batyl Alcohol has
inhibitory effects on release of inflammatory cytokines,
interleukin-1α(IL-1α) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), produced
by UVB-irradiated keratinocytes.
Mukurossi Extract
Powder
Extract of Mukurossi (Sapindus). Contains saponin glucosides
and exhibits superior anti-microbial effect against acne causing
bacteria. Inhibits lipase activity. Anti-inflammatory effect.
Excellent botanical addition to an anti-acne line.
Updated: 2004-11
.
Pore Size Reduction
Reduction of size of facial pores is a very popular new trend in skin care
development in Japan. Diminishing of visual appearance of pores (especially in Tzone) is an important advantage of modern treatment product.
Primary Ingredient
Rose Fruit Extract BG-01
INCI: ROSA MULTIFLORA FRUIT EXTRACT, WATER, BUTYLENE GLYCOL
Rose Fruit Extract BG-01 exhibits several properties very important for
diminishing of appearance of skin pores:
1. Reduction of sebum secretion
2. Astringent effect
3. Regulation of keratinization
Regulation of keratinization
Cornified envelope (CE) is a strong membrane covering with outside of corneocyte. This
membrane is produced from a special protein: involucrin. Therefore, low amount of involucrin
causes incomplete CE production and results in misbalance of desquamation. It is recognized
that stimulation of involucrin production helps to promote better desquamation and keep stratum
corneum in fine condition.
Promotion of involucrin synthesis
Rose Fruit
Extract BG-01
Involucrin synthesis (%)
Dosage
Involucrin
synthesis (%) vs
placebo
0.6%
+ 54.5%
160
140
120
100
80
Rose Fruit Extract BG-01 enhanced
involucrin synthesis effectively.
60
40
20
0
(0.6%)
Placebo
Rose Fruit 2007.04
.
Pore Size Reduction
In-vivo evaluation: reduction of visual appearance of pores.
After 4 weeks of application (twice daily).
Picture of replicas
Before testing
Microscopic picture
(after 4 weeks of application)
After testing
1% Rose Fruit Extract
BG-01
Control
BG-01
Close up pictures
BG-01
Control
300
Volume of pore
Change in volume of pores
The volume of pores was
significantly decreased by
1% Rose Fruit Extract BG-01 in
all age groups.
BG-01
Control
250
200
150
100
50
0
all
Over 30
Over 35
Age
Before test
After test
Rose Fruit 2007.04
.
True Moisturizing / NMF
Oil-soluble derivative of vitamin B6: promotion of
filaggrin and NMF synthesis in skin. “True natural
moisturizing” from inside the skin.
VB6-IP
INCI Name: Pyridoxine Tris-Hexyldecanoate
VB6-IP is an oil-soluble liquid ester of vitamin B6.
It provides effective natural moisturization through increase of NMF production in the skin.
VB6-IP stimulates production of filaggrin, the precursor protein for amino acids, which are an
essential part of skin’s NMF. VB6-IP is extremely stable against heat and oxidation and due to its
lipophilic nature it exhibits much higher skin penetration than hydrophilic pure vitamin B6.
Mechanism of action of VB6-IP
NIKKOL VB6-IP
Skin hydration
Stratum
corneum
Degradation into amino
acids
Hydrolysis
Granular layer
NIKKOL VB6-IP
Filaggrin
Protein decomposition
Profilaggrin
Translation
Profilaggrin mRNA
Basal layer
DNA transcription
DNA
NIKKOL VB6-IP
VB6-IP 2009.07
.
True Moisturizing / NMF
VB6-IP
Blank
VB6
VB6-IP
Moisturizing effect (in-vivo)
NEW
DATA
VB6-IP 2009.07
.
Moisturizers
Providing skin with moisture and retaining water inside dermis are two functions
expected from almost any skin care product. Nikko Chemicals offers various
moisturizing actives, as well as other ingredients with moisturizing properties.
Primary Ingredients
Ceralipids
Stable emulsion bases containing ceramides 2, 3, 6Ⅱ,
and other ingredients: phytosteryl isostearate (Ceralipid
PI236) ; phytosphingosine (Ceralipid PS236). Provide skin
with ceramides to improve lipid barrier and preserve
moisture. Dissolve easily in water due to lower melting
point compared to ceramides; form lamella structure to
keep ceramides stable when diluted with water.
Plant Extract
Complex BG
<Moisture>
Blend of three oriental extracts with strong moisturizing
activity. Increases profilaggrin mRNA, provides skin with
amino acids and promotes synthesis of hyaluronic acids.
A superior multifunctional complex for an effective
moisturizing product.
Luffa Extract BG
Extract from the tropical fruit Luffa. Rich with fruit saponins
(lucyosides). Superior moisturizing properties. Clinically
tested: 90% improvement in skin condition measured 12
hours after application.
Sodium
Hyaluronate
This famous moisturizing agent makes skin look fresh and
healthy. Available as powder and aqueous solution. An
essential component of moisturizing regimen.
Phellodendron Extract
BG-J
Derived from bark of Phellodendron amurense. Contains
various flavonoids and berberine. Increases Natural
Moisture Factor (NMF) by stimulating profilaggrin mRNA
synthesis. Additional anti-microbial and anti-oxidant
properties.
Phytosteryl Isostearate
An ester of Phytosterol with strong moisturizing properties.
Works as a superior emollient and stabilizer of emulsions.
Phytosterol
Plant-derived multi-sterol emollient agent from soya.
Superior moisturizing effect. Excellent alternative to
animal cholesterol.
Updated: 2004-11
.
Moisturizers
Lecinol series
Lecinols are lecithin derivatives obtained through the
hydrogenation of natural soya lecithin. Very safe biosurfactants with superior moisturizing properties. Lecinol
series includes Lecinol S-10 and Lecinol S-PIE.
Nikkomulese 41
Great solution for a moisture retaining formula: O/W
emulsifier; forms a gel network structure in water; superior
water-proof effects; long-lasting moisturizing effects; can
emulsify various kinds of oils. Increases SPF of sunscreen
formulations.
Nikkomulese 61H
Superior emulsifier and conditioning agent for a hair care
formula; forms a gel network structure in water; can emulsify
various kinds of oils; provides preparations with superior
moisturizing and conditioning effects and good stability.
Phytosteryl
Hydroxystearate
Ester of plant sterol (phytosterol) and hydroxystearic acid.
High moisture keeping ability. Provides rich feeling to the
formulation. Acts as co-emulsifier in O/W and W/O
emulsions. Prevents crystallization of poorly soluble
substances. Improves skin affinity of formulation.
Rehmannia Extract
BG
Extract from the roots of Rehmannia Glutinosa. Contains
various flavonoids, catalpol and saccharides. Increases
Natural Moisture Factor (NMF) by stimulating profilaggrin
mRNA synthesis. Prevents irritation resulting from dry skin.
White Lily Extract BG
White Lily Extract BG is extracted from flower bulbs of Lilium
candidum. It contains such active constituents as
saccharides and amino acids. Helps fight dry skin by
retaining moisture inside dermis.
Ginseng Extract BG
Ginseng is probably the most famous medical herb in the
world. Contains various saponin glucosides. Cell activation
effect. Superior moisturizing effect.
Updated: 2005-08
.
Moisturizers
Appendix: Unique Emulsifier for Highest Moisture Protection
Nikkomulese 41
Great solution for a moisture retaining formula: O/W emulsifier; forms a gel network structure in
water; superior water-proof effects; long-lasting moisturizing effects; can emulsify various kinds of
oils. Increases SPF of sunscreen formulations and helps to keep active ingredients on the skin.
In addition, Nikkomulese 41 exhibits anti-microbial properties, allowing to reduce preservative level
in the formula.
Water-resistance test
Creams prepared with
Nikkomulese 41 exhibited much
stronger water-resistance
compared to those prepared
with traditional emulsifiers. (As
shown in the picture, cream
prepared with Nikkomulese 41
(2.5%), is still visible on slide glass
after washing.)
[Before washing] [After washing] [Before washing] [After washing]
Cream with
Nikkomulese 41
Cream with
traditional emulsifiers
Water-resistance testing of
creams on Transpore® tape.
Creams were evenly applied on
the tape and then rinsed with
water.
Cream prepared with
Nikkomulese 41 (2.5%) is still visible
on the tape after rinsing.
Cream with
Nikkomulese 41
Cream with
traditional emulsifiers
Updated: 2005-08
.
Moisturizers
Appendix: Ester-type Lanolin Substitute for High
Moisture Retention
Nikkowax LM
Waxy ingredient in a paste form, which mainly consists of polyglycerols, fatty acids and longchain dibasic acids. Botanical substitute to lanolin. An excellent emollient with superior water loss
prevention (2 times higher than lanolin).
Great dispersion promoter for pigments. Binding agent for oils. Melting point of Nikkowax LM
(approx. 30 degrees C) is similar to body temperature.
Provides non-greasy, smooth and moist skin feel upon application. Adds shine and gloss to
preparations.
Comparison of binding effects of NIKKOWAX LM and lanolin oil on two separated oil layers.
① Castor Seed Oil／Mineral Oil
② Castor Seed Oil／Mineral Oil + NIKKOWAX LM
③ Castor Seed Oil／Mineral Oil + Lanolin
① Oils separate
② Nikkowax LM
binds oils clearly
③ Lanolin makes
oil blend cloudy
Updated: 2005-08
.
Promotion of skin turnover is an important feature of a moisturizing / skin balancing
personal care line.
Primary Ingredients
Clinical trial (in-vivo): promotion of
skin turnover.
Surface area of corneocytes was
evaluated by digital planimeter.
After 7 days of application, 1%
solution of Citrus Extract Complex
BG showed 8% increase of turnover
compared to butylene glycolic
solution.
0.5% Butylene Glycol
Blend of three types of citrus extracts from Japan (Citrus
Unshiu, Citrus Junos and Citrus Aurantium) . Improves
turnover speed reduced by UV and internal factors. Strong
keratinocyte proliferation.
954.3
900
836.6
1
8
Days
Derived from the leaf of Alpinia Speciosa. Promotes
collagen synthesis, prevents degradation of collagen and
accelerates growth of fibroblast cells. Estrogen-like activity.
Clinically proven turnover promoting effect.
Average turnover (days)
Clinical trial (in-vivo): promotion of
skin turnover. Number of subjects: 5.
Lotion with 2% Alpinia Leaf Extract
BG reduced turnover time by 50
hours (2 days) compared to
placebo lotion.
900.1
800
1% Citrus Extract
Complex BG
Alpinia Leaf
Extract BG
967.1
1000
Surface area (mm2 )
Citrus Extract
Complex BG
25.5
25
24.5
24
23.5
23
22.5
22
Alpinia Leaf
Placebo
Extract BG (2%)
Updated: 2005-08
.
Promotion of skin turnover is an important feature of a moisturizing / skin balancing
personal care line.
Primary Ingredients
Clinical trial (in-vivo):
promotion of skin turnover.
Surface area of
corneocytes was
evaluated by digital
planimeter.
Extract from Zizyphus jujuba fruit. Demonstrates c-AMP activation
and turnover promotion effect.
1400
Surface area of corneocytes (μm2)
Jujube Extract
BG-J
1200
Placebo
1000
800
Jujube
Extract BG-J
600
400
Before application
After 27days
Updated: 2006-04
.
Anti-oxidation / Anti-stress
Rose Myrtle Extract BG80
Extract from Rhodomyrtus tomentosa (plant from subtropical zones in Southeast Asia). ROSE MYRTLE
EXTRACT BG80 suppresses UV induced DNA damage in skin cells due to active oxygen eliminating effect.
Glutathione (GSH) is an
antioxidant tripeptide which
protects cells from toxins such
as free radicals. Up regulating
glutathione is important for
ROS suppression.
Promotion of Glutathione Synthesis
Sample was added to human fibroblasts and
assay of total glutathione content in the cells
was evaluated after 24 hours.
Suppression of DNA damage induced by UVB (Comet Assay test)
2008-01
.
Rose Myrtle Extract BG80
NE
W
DA
TA
Suppression of formation of UV-induced erythema (in vivo)
Method: Lotion with 1% Rose Myrtle Extract BG
and placebo lotion were applied on upper
arm of volunteers (n=5) twice daily for 2 weeks.
After pretreatment, the treated area was
separated into 6 sites and irradiated with
various doses of UVB. The erythema levels were
evaluated 6 hours after UVB irradiation.
Rose Myrtle Extract BG at 1% showed 23%
suppression of erythema score.
2009-05
.
Zinc-Glycine Complex
In the body, metallothionein, an antioxidant protein, acts as a natural sunscreen to reduce
adverse effects of UV irradiation. Metallothionein is very effectively induced by zinc, however, zinc
in ionized form has poor skin penetrating ability and cannot be uptaken into cells in sufficient
amounts. To solve this problem, we synthesized and examined various types of zinc complexes
containing different amino acids as ligands. As a result, we have developed Zinc-Glycine
Complex, a zinc complex with glycine, which showed superior induction of metallothionein in the
body and effectively reduced oxidative stress.
Zinc-Glycine Complex triggers expression of intracellular
metallothionein that inhibits tyrosinase activity.
It enhances cells’ tolerance to UV radiation and oxidative stress
and reduces UV-induced melanogenesis.
25
20
15
Effect on expression of intracellular metallothionein (MT)
Zinc-Glycine Complex, at different concentrations, and
10 μmol/L zinc chloride, as a reference, were added to
different samples of human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells).
After a 24-hour incubation period, MT protein expression
was analyzed using ELISA method. Zinc-Glycine Complex
increases the amount of MT more efficiently compared to
zinc chloride.
MT protein expression analyzed using ELISA method
p<0.01
ZnCl 2
10
5
0
0
10
1
10
Zinc-Glycine
Complex
Concentration （μmol/L ）
Effects of Zinc-Glycine Complex on resistance of HaCaT cell against UVB and H2O2
Cell survival rate is expressed as a percentage of untreated sample. (Cell survival rate is
expressed as a percentage of untreated sample.) p < 0.01
2009-08
.
Zinc-Glycine Complex
Suppression
of melanin
synthesis
In vivo: reduction of UV induced pigmentation (skin lightening)
Subjects: 6 people.
UV: 1.5 MED.
Dosage: 1%.
Term: 2 weeks.
NEW
DATA
Positive control: Sodium Ascorbyl
Phosphate; 3%
2009-08
.
Anti-age / Anti-stress / AQP3
Tocoretinate-10
Caprylic/capric triglyceride solution containing 10% of an ester of retinoic acid and natural vitamin E.
Effectively reduces skin wrinkles at 1% concentration (clinically tested). Promotes collagen synthesis.
Scavenges active oxygen species. Does not release retinoic acid due to the resistance to
breakdown by esterase. Low skin irritation potential.
Suppression of DNA damage induced by UVB (Comet Assay test)
120
Control
**
Tail length (mm)
100
**
**
67.2 mM
80
UVB 10mJ/cm2
60
40
DNA damage was
evaluated by the
comet assay. HaCaT
keratinocytes which
were treated with
Tocoretinate for 24 h,
were exposed to UVB
at 100 mJ/cm2.
92.4 mM
UVB + TR
20
72.6 mM
0
Control
UVB
Significance **: p<0.01
(0.0001%) (0.0002%)
Tocopheryl Retinoate
FREE Radical Scavenging Activity (Singlet
Oxygen) ESR spin trapping method
Wrinkle reduction effect (replica)
Test period: 90 days. Concentration: 1%.
Control
20 mM
40 mM
328 330 332
Field (mT)
NE
334
W!
Tocoretinoate-10 increases
expression of Aquaporin-3.
Before
Aquaporin-3 expression (%)
326
After
200
100
0
0
25
50
Tocopheryl Retinoate (mM)
2008-02
.
Anti-oxidant
High Purity Tocotrienol
Mixed Tocotrienols 92
INCI Name: Tocotrienols
Mixed Tocotrienols 92 is natural (plant derived) vitamin E with extremely high purity: over 92%.
It consists mainly of gamma-tocotrienol (35%), alpha-tocotrienol (20%) and beta-tocotrienol (10%).
Very effective natural anti-oxidant. Inhibits inflammatory reactions induced by UV. Prevents
pigmentation of skin and shows wrinkle improvement effect. GMO-free natural ingredient.
Vitamin E is one of the most important phytonutrients in edible oils. It consists of eight isomers, a family of
four tocopherols (alpha, beta, gamma and delta) and four tocotrienols (alpha, beta, gamma and
delta).
Tocotrienols show considerably superior antioxidant properties compared to dl-α-Tocopherol in clinical
and experimental studies due to their better distribution in the fatty layers of the cell membrane.
PGE2(pg/μg protein)
Suppression of inflammatory mediator’s
increase induced by UV
(prostaglandin E2)
UVB（－）
UVB(5mJ/cm2)
4.5
4.0
3.5
3.0
2.5
2.0
1.5
1.0
0.5
0.0
Clinical trial (in-vivo): reduction of
wrinkles. Concentration of Mixed
Tocotrienols 92 : 1%.
Left: replica; right: binary image.
Before
**
**
0
2.5
After 8
weeks
5
Concentration of Mixed Tocotrienols 92 (mg/mL)
GSH (nmol/mg protein)
100
Glutathione synthesis promotion
Human keratinocytes were treated
with TR-92 for 24 hours. After that GSH
(glutathione) synthesis amount was
measured by GSH reductase recycling
method. Significance: ** p<0.01
80
60
0
1.25
2.50
5.00
NE
W
!
10.00
Mixed Tocotrienols 92 (mg/mL)
TR-92 2008.11
.
Skin Defense / Anti-Stress
Primary Ingredients
VC-IP
Unique oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Inhibits activity of intracellular tyrosinase and melanogenesis.
Reduces UV-induced cell/DNA damage. Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging. Remarkable
heat- and oxidation-stability. Revitalizing effect on cells. Clinically tested.
Inhibition of keratinocytes’ DNA
damage induced by UVA. The light
parts on the pictures (taken 1 hour
after of UVA irradiation) indicate 8hydroxyguanosine, an index of DNA
damage. VC-IP effectively
suppresses DNA damage in cells.
No treatment
VC-IP (80 mM)
Protection of cell damage induced
by UVA. Microscopic pictures of
keratinocytes 24 hours after
irradiation.
VC-IP treatment reduces cell death
by 31.5%.
No UVA
UVA
UVA + VC-IP
Cili Extract BG
Extract derived from fruit of Rosa roxburghii. Natural
anti-oxidant with anti-inflammatory effect. Inhibits
testosterone 5 alpha-reductase.
Green Tea Extract BG
Extract from leaves of Camellia Sinensis. Contains
catechin, polyphenols and caffeine. Radical oxygen
scavenging effect. Additional anti-inflammatory
effect (inhibition of hyaluronidase).
Loquat Leaf Extract
BG-J
Extract from leaves of Eriobotrya japonica. Contains
triterpenoids (ursolic acid, oleanolic acid). Radical
oxygen scavenging effect. Inhibition of lipase
activity.
Updated: 2005-08
.
Anti-microbial
In this section we present some useful ingredients with anti-microbial properties. We
offer safe and unique solutions to provide microbiological stability of skin and oral
care products.
Anti-microbial Ingredients
Biosol
Bactericidal, antiseptic and fungicidal agent. Very
effective against different types of microorganisms.
Biosol can be used in antiseptic washes, soaps and
shampoos, as well as oral care. In oral care Biosol
proves to effectively penetrate and decompose the
bacterial film formed inside the mouth. Biosol has
superior safety and stability and is easy-to-use in the
cosmetic preparations.
Licorice Extract AM
Anti-microbial version of of Glycyrrhiza glabra
(licorice) extract for oral care (tooth paste, mouth
washes etc). Contains up to 1.5% active fraction
Glabridin. Strong anti-microbial effect. Inhibition of
dental plaque formation. Anti-caries effect.
Recommended use level: 0.1%.
Mukurossi Extract
Powder
Extract of Mukurossi (Sapindus). Contains saponin
glucosides and exhibits superior anti-microbial
effect against acne causing bacteria. Inhibits
lipase activity. Additional anti-inflammatory effect.
Excellent botanical active to increase
microbiological stability of a skin care formulation.
Honeysuckle
Extract BG
Extract derived from leaf of Lonicera Japonica.
Strong anti-microbial effect. Inhibition of c-AMP
phosphodiesterase.
Zanthoxylum
Extract BG
This extract is obtained from a plant which grows in
the mountains of Japan. Anti-microbial properties of
this plant are well known and it has been widely used
in traditional medicine. Additional anti-oxidation and
anti-inflammatory effects.
Updated: 2005-06
.
Anti-microbial
Anti-microbial Ingredients
Nikkoguard DL
This co-emulsifier with antibacterial efficacy consists of
Glyceryl Caprate and two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters
(plant derived and approved for use as food additives
in Japan). Allows to reduce or exclude parabens or
other preservatives from the formulation. Shows strong
effect against a variety of bacteria even in acidic
conditions.
MGU
Glyceryl Undecylenate. Undecylenic acid prevents
fungus from growing on the skin and is used topically to
treat athlete's foot, excessive sweating, itching and
burning. MGU, an ester of Undecylenic acid and
glycerol, has strong anti-bacterial properties. It can
reduce amount of preservatives in cosmetic
preparations.
Recommended dosage as preservative: 0.3%.
Updated: 2005-08
.
Slimming
Slimming actives ingredients help to improve blood circulation, reduce
subcutaneous fats and prevent swelling. Our additives exhibit superior slimming /
swelling reduction properties and show great results when tested in-vivo.
Primary Ingredients
Clinical trial (in-vivo):
reduction of leg swelling.
Number of subjects: 5.
Gel with 5% DST-H reduced
swelling of legs immediately
after application and this
effect was continuous (no
rebound swelling).
DST-H (Dextran Sulfate, Sodium salt) increases production of
nitrogen oxide (NO) in epidermal cells and promotes blood
circulations in epidermis. It also prevents and reduces
swelling of face and body. In-vivo tests: immediate slimming
effect on calves, legs and thighs (up to -1.5%); reduction of
swelling of legs and thighs after continuous application.
103.0
Legs
102.5
Swelling of legs （%）
DST-H
Placebo (left leg)
102.0
Gel with DST-H 5% (right leg)
101.5
101.0
100.5
100.0
99.5
99.0
Morning
Ev ening
Right after
(before
application
10 min.
30 min.
application)
Updated: 2005-09
.
Semi-finished Bases
These semi-finished base products make it possible to formulate effective skin care
with minimum effort and energy. Nikko NET series includes emulsion bases with
actives, which are usually difficult to incorporate into finished formula. Nikkosomes
are versatile solutions for nano-size microemulsions with various actives.
NET series
NET-VCIP
Oil-in-water emulsion base with 50% of premixed oil-soluble vitamin
C derivative (VC-IP; ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate). Formulation with
high content of vitamin C can be obtained by simple dilution.
Excellent stability and uniform particle size.
NET-ACE
O/W emulsion base with vitamin derivatives: retinyl palmitate,
ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and dl-α-tocopheryl acetate. This
emulsion base makes it easy to keep these oil-soluble vitamin
derivatives stable and add them into cosmetic preparations.
NET-FS
This emulsion base for skin care incorporates 25% of silicone oil
(methylphenyl polysiloxane), which is usually difficult to emulsify. Its
oil ingredients provide good spreadability and superior light feeling
after application on the skin. They also demonstrate emollient effect
by forming a thin silicone film on skin surface. NET-FS is very stable
against oxidation and separation. It has excellent stability due to
narrow particle distribution with average particle size of 230 nm.
NET-ASA
Hair care conditioning base with 50% of amodimethicone.
Amodimethicone greatly improves the texture of the hair by making
it supple. An easy-to-handle ingredient that disperses quickly in
water and does not adhere to an emulsifying machine. It can be
utilized in rinses and treatments.
Pre-solubilized VC-IP
Soluble VCIP
Easy-to-incorporate nanoemulsion containing oil-soluble vitamin C
derivative (VC-IP; ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate). This clear base allows
to add VC-IP in transparent formulation (lotions) by simple dilution.
Stable particle size (70 nm) and remarkable pH stability.
Updated: 2005-07
.
These unique treated powders provide various remarkable properties to skin care
and makeup formulations: superior softness, creamy feel, fine line and wrinkle
concealing effect, reduction of shine and many others.
Treated Powders
Plastic Powder
D-400
INCI: HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer and Silica. It
provides remarkable soft texture and smooth feeling to
formulations. The softness of Plastic Powder D-400 is 50 times
higher than nylon powder and over 100 times higher than
PMMA. Superior pore / wrinkle concealing effect.
Wrinkle concealing effect (artificial
skin). Powders are mixed with
mineral oil (50:50).
PMMA
Nylon 12
Plastic Powder
D-400
Updated: 2005-09
.
Agar Treated Powders
Agar Sericite E-4
Agar Talc F-4
New concept in treated powders: sericite and talc treated with agar. Agar coating provides unique
control over moisture: it absorbs moisture in wet conditions, and releases it when air becomes dry.
Contributes to the long-lasting effect of makeup product.
Agar coating
Powders with agar treated
surface provide original concept
of “self moisture control conditions
of makeup formula in different
conditions”. This concept is
based upon the fact that agar
film is able to absorb excess sweat
or water and release it in dry
condition.
pigment
pigment
pigment
pigment
pigment
pigment
Skin
Sweat or
water
Agar + water gel
Agar treated powders improve
stability and adherence of
makeup to skin due to formation
of agar gel. Superior application
texture. Highly recommended for
water and sweat resistant
formulations.
pigment
pigment
pigment
pigment
pigment
pigment
pigment
pigment
Skin
Moisture Control Properties of Agar Treated Powder
1.2
Humidity:
40%
80%
80%
80%
40%
Moisture（%）
1
0.8
0.6
AGAR SERICITE E-4
0.4
None treated Mica
0.2
0
0
1
2
3
4
Time（Hours）
5
6
7
2006-07
.
Special Powder for Soft Focus Effect
LDR-CA
INCI: Calcium Carbonate. The particles of this powder resemble rose flowers. In makeup formulation
LDR-CA prevents luster (soft focus effect), effectively absorbs sebum and has acne preventing
potential.
LDR-CA has large surface
area due to its petal-like
appearance, while surface
area of porous silica or mica is
smaller, and pores are narrow.
Therefore, LDR-CA has up to 2
times higher oil / sebum
absorbing capacity.
Luster prevention
Artificial skin
CAPRYLIC /
CAPRIC
TRIGLYCERIDE
LDR-CA (x1500)
LDR-CA (x7000)
Porous silica
Sebum trapping effect (tested using
lime zest oil, which resembles human
sebum)
Liquid
foundation
Loose powder
Press
Oil
Lime zest
Face Powder A
Regular Calcium
Carbonate +
CAPRYLIC/
CAPRIC
TRIGLYCERIDE
(1:1)
Face Powder B
Loose Powder
containing
5% LDR CA
LDR CA +
CAPRYLIC/
CAPRIC
TRIGLYCERIDE
(1:1)
2006-07
.
Hair Care
Natural Moisturizing Extract
Based on Amino Acids for Skin and Hair
Hydrolyzed Coix Seed
Natural Moisturizing Extract Based on Amino
Acids for Skin and Hair .
INCI Name: Hydrolyzed Coix Lacryma-Jobi
Ma-Yuen Seed; Butylene Glycol; Water;
Phenoxyethanol.
Extract of coix seed is made using innovative
high pressure enzyme decomposition
technology with use of enzymes amylase and
protease. Hydrolyzed Coix Seed contains
large amounts of amino acids and provides
moisturizing / hydrating effect on skin and
strengthening effect on hair.
Hydrolyzed Coix Seed’s amino acid
composition resembles that of human hair.
Therefore, it has strong protection and repair
effect oh hair damage caused by dyes and
permanent wave. High content of Cysteine
(essential component of hair) is very
important.
Hydrolyzed Coix Seed: improvement of
elasticity of dyed hair
Elasticity of hair was measured by tension
evaluating apparatus (in MIU) before and
after dying and after treatment with test
samples. 5% lotion with Hydrolyzed Coix
Seed showed significant improvement of
hair condition after dying.
Efficacy:
Aq. solution of Butylene Glycol
5.0% Hydrolyzed Coix Seed lotion
- 26.9 %
+5.0 %
Amino acid composition of human hair (blue
line) and Hydrolyzed Coix Seed (pink line).
Arginine
Lysine
Histidine
Phenylalanine
Tyrosine
Leucine
Isoleucine
Methionine
Valine
Cysteine
Alanine
Glycine
Proline
Glutamate
Serine
Threonine
Asparagine
(% of all amino acids)
After
treatment
After
dying
Before
dying
Aq. solution of
Butylene Glycol
After
After
dying treatment
Before
dying
5.0% Hydrolyzed Coix Seed
lotion
HydroCoix 2007.04
.
Hair Care
Hydrolyzed Coix Seed
Improvement of damaged hair (observed by electronic microscope)
Test sample: 5% HYDROLYZED COIX SEED solution
Procedure :
Normal hair is put into hair dye solution for 20
minutes, rinsed and dried by hot air (repeated 5
times).
Hair dye solution :
7.40% hydrogen peroxide water (H2O2) (30%)
4.45% ammonia water (28%)
88.15% water
Treatment:
Damaged hair is put into sample solution for 20
minutes, rinsed and dried.
Damaged hair
Hair treated with 5%
HYDROLYZED COIX SEED
Improvement of flexibility hair
Test samples: 5% HYDROLYZED COIX SEED solution
Procedure: normal hair is placed into shampoo solution for 1 minute (1% Sodium Polyoxyethylene
Lauryl Ether Sulfate), rinsed, placed into sample solution for 5 minutes and rinsed again.
Then hair is tied up and the speed of untying of hair (seconds) is evaluated.
Second 0
Control
Second 5
5% HYDROLYZED
COIX SEED
Control
5% HYDROLYZED
COIX SEED
Second 6
Control
5% HYDROLYZED
COIX SEED
11.2
12
10
8
5.7
6
4
5% HYDROLYZED COIX SEED solution
2
0
Control
Index of flexibility of hair
HydroCoix 2007.04
NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD.
1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN
TEL: 81-3-3661-1677
FAX: 81-3-3664-8620
E-mail: [email protected]
www.nikkol.co.jp

Siratro Extract BG

Transcription

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