Chapter 10 - Goodheart

This sample chapter is for review purposes only. Copyright © The Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. All rights reserved.
154 Part 2 Upholstering Processes
Chapter 10
Channeling and Tufting
Objectives
Important Terms
After studying this chapter, you will be able to:
H Explain different methods and processes for
making channels, including laying out,
assembling, stuffing, and installing procedures.
H Identify the tufting patterns and describe
procedures for diamond tufting.
H Recall two basic tufting methods and
explain procedures for each.
biscuit tufting
diamond tufting
fluting
piping
Of all the upholstering techniques, the two
demanding the most skill are channeling and
tufting. Channeling (sometimes called fluting or
piping) is a series of padded, usually parallel
ridges seen as part of the design of a chair back,
Figure 10-1. The technique is normally done only
on the backs of chairs and sofas but may appear
on arms.
Tufting involves pulling patterns into the
padding, usually by tugging covered buttons
to a desired depth, which creates a series of
raised and depressed sections. Repeated diamond shaped or square tufts are the design
effect, Figure 10-2. Tufting is a technique used
on the backs, seats, and arms of upholstered
furniture.
Channeling
Channels look like a series of straight,
parallel ribs running up and down the back or
arms of a chair, Figure 10-3. The channel might be
fan shaped with the tops of the ribs wider than
the bottoms (tapered).
Some upholsterers prefer to work directly on
the pieces of furniture when making channels.
Others prefer the ease of constructing the channels
before attaching them to the furniture piece.
Laying Out the Channel as a Separate Unit
The following procedures are for channeling
the back of a chair when the channels are
constructed before they are attached. The first step
is preparing the surface to receive the channels.
Fanback
style
Top
view
Tapered channeled
arms and back
Horizontal channels
on lounger
Straight vertical
channeled back
and arms
Vertical channel
plain arms
Figure 10-1.
Channeling, which resembles a padded tube, is often found on the backs of furniture, especially where the back
is curved. Horizontal channeling is rarely done.
Lexington Home Brands courtesy of American
Furniture Manufacturers Association
Chapter 10
Channeling and Tufting
155
Figure 10-3.
Although less common, channels can be designed on
the arms of couches or chairs. (Thomasville, courtesy
of American Furniture Manufacturers Association)
Preparing the Surface
A
(Smithsonian Institution Photo No. 76-9294)
B
C
Figure 10-2.
Three examples of tufted furniture are shown.
A⎯Diamond tufted Victorian Rococo-style chair.
B⎯Leather recliner with square tufts. C⎯Sofa with
combination tufts and channels.
1) Measure the surface to be covered by channeling.
2) Decide on the desired width and number of
channels. (Note: If the old cover is available as a
pattern, go on to Step 3.) Divide the area being
covered by the number of channels you plan to
have. If fan shaped channels are preferred, be
sure to measure both the top and the bottom of
the area. Divide each measurement by the
number of channels. Set the figures aside. You
will use them in Step 5.
3) Find the center of the chair back. Mark it with a
soft lead marker, top and bottom. These marks
will help you center the channels when they are
attached to the chair.
4) Cut a piece of muslin slightly larger than the
inside back. This will become the underside of
the channels. Mark the center top and bottom
on the muslin so you will have a means of
centering the finished channeling on the chair.
Draw a line connecting the marks.
5) Indicate the width of the channels that you
determined in Step 2 by marking the muslin top
and bottom, Figure 10-4. (Note: If you are using
an even number of channels, lay out an even
number on each side of the centerline. If you are
using an odd number, measure off half the width
of a channel on either side of the centerline.)
6) Using a straightedge as a guide, draw lines to
connect the marks made on the muslin,
Figure 10-5. These will be the stitching lines
between the individual channels.
7) Cut away excess material around the edges of
the pattern.
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Part 2
Upholstering Processes
Figure 10-4.
Mark top and bottom of muslin for divisions between
channels. For an even number of channels, arrange
them on either side of centerline. If there is an odd
number, center one channel on the centerline. The
muslin is marked for six channels.
After marking the material to which the
channels will be attached, you must determine
the depth (thickness of padding) of the channel.
This is your choice to make and is important to
know at this point. The depth determines the
width of each channel section of the top cover
(and, of course, the total width of the top cover).
Determining the Depth
1) Experiment with a wide strip of cardboard,
bending it until you have the shape and size of
channel preferred, Figure 10-6. Trim off the edge
of the cardboard when you have found a shape
the right height and width.
2) Lay the cardboard pattern flat and measure its
width. This dimension represents the amount of
final covering it takes to stretch over the bulge of
the padding to form one channel.
Now that you have determined the width and
height of the channels and developed a cardboard
pattern, the next step is marking the final cover.
Measuring and Marking the Final Cover
1) Find the width of material needed for all of the
channels. To do this, multiply the cardboard
pattern’s width by the number of channels.
2) Working from the center of a piece of final
covering large enough to cover the chair back, lay
out the channels as you did on the muslin underside. Use chalk and work on the underside of the
upholstery material. (Note: The channels will be
Figure 10-5.
Lay a rule over marks and draw stitching lines
between channels.
Assembling Channels
At this point, the channels can be assembled.
Follow these steps for assembling the channels after
completing all of the previously stated procedures.
Assembling Channels
1) Place the final cover on top of the muslin underside previously marked and cut. The right side of
the cover should face up.
2) In preparation for sewing, match up the lines
chalked on the wrong side of the final cover with
the lines on the muslin underside. Uneven
channels result if matching is careless and
exact alignment is not performed.
3) Sew in the channel seams, Figure 10-7. Use
pins or a basting stitch to hold the pieces in
alignment and to guide the machine stitching
along the lines.
4) Most upholsterers do not sew in the last seam
on each side. This is sewn in by hand or tacked
to the frame after the end channels are stuffed.
several inches wider than the corresponding
channels on the muslin underside. This is to cover
the bulge of the padding.)
3) Allow enough extra material at the top and sides
so the upholstery material can be wrapped over
the edges and tacked to the chair. A tack strip or
stretcher is attached to the bottom for tacking.
4) Draw lines by following the same techniques
shown in Figure 10-4 and Figure 10-5.
Chapter 10
Cardboard
Height
Width
Figure 10-6.
Bend fairly stiff cardboard by hand until it has the
height and width of the channel you want. Trim the
cardboard to width, and use it as a guide for the width
of channels on top muslin or final cover.
Channeling and Tufting
157
Some possible channel stuffing includes foam
padding, cotton padding, kapok, or other
loose stuffing. Beginners should avoid loose
stuffing materials because they are difficult to
handle.
White wadding, cotton mat, foam rubber,
foam plastic, or polyurethane foam are best for
stuffing channels. Thin slabs are preferred
(especially with foamed products) since they are
easier to shape into rolls. Make the rolls slightly
longer than the length of the channels. Padding
can be trimmed off later as the cover is being
tacked to the chair back.
If you have difficulty sliding the rolled
padding into the channel pockets, cut two pieces
of cardboard or thin plywood as long and wide
as the roll. “Sandwich” the roll between the
pieces of cardboard or plywood, compress the
roll, and slide it into the channel, Figure 10-8.
Stuff all channels except the two end ones, which
are not sewn. These will be stuffed as the cover is
installed on the chair back.
Before installation of the channels, sew a
stretcher to the bottom of the final cover for
tacking purposes. This can be done any time after
the final cover is cut out.
Stuffing Channels
Installing Channeled Cover
Stuffing the channels might be difficult,
depending on the stuffing materials used.
Now that the channels are assembled and
stuffed, they can be attached to the chair.
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Part 2
Upholstering Processes
Installing Channeled Cover to a Chair Back
Tapered Channel Construction
1) Lay the completed cover on the chair seat with
the wrong side up and push the stretcher strip
down between the seat and the bottom of the
chair back, Figure 10-9.
2) Align the center of the cover with the center
mark already indicated on the chair back.
Sometimes it is necessary to construct the
channeled covering by cutting out and sewing on
each channel covering separately. An example is
the tapered channel-backed chair shown in
Figure 10-11.
3) Tack the cover down temporarily to the rear seat
rail. Make sure the channels are not too low.
4) Lay the cover over the top of the back and adjust
its position, if necessary. Then recheck for
center alignment. If it is satisfactory, tack the
bottom permanently.
5) Center the top of the cover with the indicated
center mark on the chair back and tack it.
Stretch the material taut before tacking. Several
styles that call for varied methods of attaching
the top are shown in Figure 10-10.
6) Pin tack the top, starting with the center of the channeled unit. Stretch the cover tight before tacking.
7) Move from the center to either side, smoothing
and pulling the cover tight as tacking progresses.
8) Examine the work done. If it is properly centered
and straight, permanently tack it.
Muslin
Center
Underside of
formed channels
Figure 10-9.
When installing formed channel back covering, shove
the stretcher between the seat and the back. Center
channeled covering on the back.
Reach hand in this
end of pocket and
pull roll of foam
padding into pocket
Stitching
A
Stretcher
The two end channels have remained
unstuffed intentionally until this point in the
process, the actual cover installation. Lay
padding materials in before the channel is closed.
Installing End Channels
1) Lay the rolled padding into place. Use the same
padding material as the other channels.
2) Wrap the final cover over the top of the padding
and around the chair back. Stretch it taut and
tack the edges to the tack rails.
Top cover
Center
of chair
back
B
Figure 10-7.
How to form channel pockets with top cover and muslin underside is shown. A⎯Final cover is atop muslin and
sewing is in progress. B⎯Pockets are formed after sewing is finished.
A
On weaker types of
padding that cannot
be pulled into channel
pockets, make a
"sandwich" of cardboard
stuffers or thin plywood.
Compress and slide
sandwiched material
into pocket.
B
Figure 10-8.
Channel pockets are stuffed with padding. A⎯A roll of foam rubber, foam plastic, or polyurethane foam is pulled
into a pocket. B⎯Lay cardboard or plywood stuffers on either side of a roll, which stiffens the pocket while cotton
batting or polyester fiberfill is inserted. Allow stuffing to extend beyond each end. It can be adjusted later.
Chapter 10
Channeling and Tufting
159
160
Part 2
Upholstering Processes
Laying Out Tapered Channels
The procedure for measuring and laying out
a tapered channel is similar to that used for
straight channels. Follow the following procedure.
Centerline
Sewing
Measuring and Laying Out Tapered Channels
e
id
of
xt
ne
po
rs
Welt
Front
3) Locate the centerline of the muslin at top and
bottom. Working outward from the center in
each direction, mark the widths of each pocket
across the top.
4) Do the same on the bottom, again working outward from the center in each direction. (Note: The
width of the pockets is narrower at the bottom.)
Your layout will look similar to Figure 10-12.
5) Determine the dimensions of the top channel
cover that will complete the pocket. The cover
must be larger than the pattern just laid out on
the muslin to accommodate the outward bulge
created by the padding. If there is an old
covering, take it apart and use it as a pattern. If
there is no pattern, use the curved cardboard
technique shown in Figure 10-6. As a rule, adding
2″ (51 mm) to each channel should be sufficient.
6) Lay out the pieces on the final covering. Do not
attempt to save material by laying out some of
the channels upside down. This causes pattern
and nap to run in opposite directions, and the
appearance of the back would be spoiled,
Figure 10-13.
et
ck
Channels
carried
over top
1) Measure the top and bottom of the chair back
and divide each measurement by the number of
pockets desired.
2) Lay out the pockets on a piece of muslin and
use a marking pencil to mark the edges of each
pocket. This will be used as a stitching guide
and as the underside.
Channel
sections of
final cover
Back
cover
U
e
nd
Rear
Back
cover
Front
Rear
Figure 10-10.
Several styles of channeling on chair backs are
shown. Each requires varying the stuffing and tacking
procedure. Cut back the padding as required.
Sandwich Method of Channeling
A third method of channeling eliminates the
need for pockets and stuffing. The chair back
shown in Figure 10-16 illustrates a channeled
back produced by sewing two seams through the
finished covering and backing material with a
Figure 10-12.
Muslin is marked for tapered channels. This will be the
underside. The final cover or other pieces of muslin
are sewn to it to form pockets.
Method of
sewing pockets
to conceal
stitching
foam slab “sandwiched” in between. Figure 10-17
shows the backside of the channeled surface.
Spray adhesive adheres the backing fabric to the
foam padding, and the stitching lines are clearly
visible. Figure 10-18 shows the original chair with
channeled back. Reupholstering a chair with this
type of channeling is much easier for a beginner
Do not cut outside
pieces until channels
are fitted to
back and tacked
8″
plus
8″
8″
8″
8″
plus
8″
8″
Figure 10-14.
Sew individual sections of the final cover to a muslin
base marked for tapered channels. Lay edges of sections over stitch lines and sew each edge except the
first and the last. These will be tacked down on the
chair back.
8″
8″
8″
8″
6″
8″
6″
8″
7) Stitch each channel separately to the muslin,
Figure 10-14. Leave the outside seam on the
two outside channels open. These are stuffed
and outside edges are tacked to the chair after
the covering is installed.
As an alternative, channeling may be
constructed directly on the back of the piece of
furniture. In this method, the base is laid out on
muslin or burlap. It is usually attached to the
chair back after marking, Figure 10-15. The
channel covers are cut out and sewn individually
to the back. They can be stuffed either before or
after they are sewn in. However, if loose stuffing
materials are used, it is better to stuff the
channels before sewing.
Figure 10-11.
This upholstered chair has tapered channeling. The
pockets are narrower at the bottom. The top cover
must be made from individual pieces.
6″
6″
6″
6″
6″
Like this: Tapered panels cut straight
with pattern and weave
6″ 6″ 6″ 6″ 6″
Not like this: Weave, nap, and
pattern will lay on a bias,
ruining job's appearance
6″
8″
6″
8″ 6″
Not like this: Reversing taper on every
other channel will reverse pattern
and nap, spoiling appearance
Figure 10-13.
This is the proper cutting pattern for tapered channels when preparing the final cover. Mark off individual pieces
and cut along the “straight” of the fabric. Be sure to include seam allowance on both sides.
Chapter 10
Channeling and Tufting
161
Centerline
162
Part 2
Upholstering Processes
Channeling with the Sandwich Method
1) Select a piece of fabric large enough to cover
the surface to be channeled. Mark the centerline
at the top and bottom. If the material has a nap,
be sure that the nap is going down.
2) Pin or clamp the final covering material to the
old chair back so the seams are straight,
following the original channel.
3) Sew a seam through the new covering, old covering, padding material, and backing from top to
bottom.
4) Complete the sewing for each channel.
5) Staple or tack the new fabric (right side) to the
backside of the chair frame. Begin at the top, proceed to the bottom, and then go on to the sides.
Figure 10-20 shows the fabric being attached to
the back panel. Figure 10-21 shows the outside
back being attached to the sides of the chair
frame. A blind tacking strip was used to secure
the outside covering at the top of the chair back.
6) If the chair back was removable, reattach it to
the chair frame. Figure 10-22 shows the finished
chair.
Figure 10-15.
A marked up chair back is ready for sewing channel
pockets directly onto the back. The stitching must be
done by hand with a large curved needle.
Tufting
Figure 10-18.
This shows the original channel-backed chair. The
back panel is removable.
Tufts are added to furniture as a decoration.
Because of the buttons used, they must be
constructed directly on the piece of furniture.
Tufts are used on seats as well as on backs.
Figure 10-23 shows common tufting patterns.
Figure 10-21.
Attach the outside back fabric covering to the chair
back frame.
Figure 10-2B. In both designs, if pulled tufting is
used, buttons form depressions in the padding. If
an old piece of tufted furniture is being reupholstered, you can use the older underside and cover
as patterns, Figure 10-25. Press them and lay
them over the new pieces of material. Mark the
button positions with a soft lead marker.
Laying Out a Tufting Pattern
Tufting that forms a pattern of diamonds is
called diamond tufting, Figure 10-24. Tufting
forming squares is called biscuit tufting, as in
Figure 10-16.
A profile of channels is shown on this channeled chair
back.
Figure 10-19.
The channel-backed chair has received a new
upholstery covering.
Figure 10-17.
The backside of this channeled surface shows backing
and seam lines.
if the original cover is left over the padding. This
maintains the channeling in its proper location.
Figure 10-19 shows this chair with a new final
covering. The following procedure is recommended for sandwich method channeling.
Figure 10-20.
Attach front upholstery fabric to the back of the chair
frame.
Figure 10-22.
The completed channel-backed chair project is shown.
Chapter 10
Channeling and Tufting
163
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Part 2
Upholstering Processes
If no old pattern is available to follow, you
must make one. It is best to work right on the
piece of furniture. However, you can also make a
pattern and then transfer it to the furniture. Just
be careful that the pattern is the right size and
proportion for the back or seat on which you are
working.
6″
3″
W = 6″
L = 8″
4″
8″
Diamond Tufting
Follow these steps to place a diamond tuft
pattern on a chair back.
Barrel back chair with
5-6-5-4 button pattern
forming diamond tufts
Deep tufted antique
chair with sag seat
Modern three-pillow couch
with square 3-3 tufting
pattern on back cushions
Bedroom chair with
4-3-4-5 tuft pattern
Creating a Diamond Tufting Design
1) Find and mark the centerlines of the chair back
for both height and width.
2) Draw a pattern of squares or rectangles on a
grid. This requires determining the desired width
and height of the diamond. The diamond size
should be in proportion to the size of the chair
back.
3) Make a grid large enough to contain the entire
pattern. Space vertical lines of the grid at half the
width of the diamond and space horizontal lines
at half the height of the diamond, Figure 10-26.
4) Mark the position of the buttons, Figure 10-27.
Begin to draw in the diagonal lines. Start from
the centerline and work outward.
5) Draw in the diamond pattern as in Figure 10-28.
6) Using a marking pen, reproduce the pattern on
the back of the chair. Only marking the button
positions is necessary, but you may draw in the
lines, too. Keep the points of the lowest part of
the diamond pattern about 3″ (76 mm) above
the seat. Be sure the pattern is carefully
centered. Check to see that the lines of the
button positions are running straight. Pin the
pattern to the chair before marking.
Dining chair with
single row of tufts
in 3-4-3 button pattern
Figure 10-23.
Various tufting patterns are possible on different types of furniture. To get a diamond pattern, use alternate rows
of odd and even numbers of buttons. To get square or rectangular tufts, align buttons vertically.
Tufting Methods
Tufting falls into two basic methods:
Tufting by making individual pockets.
Tufting a single, integrated, padded surface.
Most upholsterers prefer the second method
since it is faster and less painstaking. Both
methods will be shown.
Either way, the pattern is transferred to a part
of the upholstering material. When tufting by
building individual pockets, the pattern is placed
on a piece of muslin that becomes the underside
•
•
Figure 10-24.
Diamond tufting on the back and seat cushions dominates
the design of this couch. (Ferguson Copeland courtesy
of American Furniture Manufacturers Association)
Figure 10-25.
Use the original fabric covering to locate tufts on this
barrel chair.
Figure 10-26.
A design of diamond tufting pattern begins with the
layout of a full size grid.
of the casing. When tufting on a single padded
surface (usually foam), the pattern is traced onto
the foam pad.
Tufting Individual Pockets
In this type of tufting, work is done directly
on the muslin or burlap covering the back or seat
of the furniture piece.
Tufting Individual Pockets
1) Locate and mark the centerline of the top and
bottom (for a seat) or front and back (for a back).
2) Establish position of the pattern on the surface.
As a general guide, the bottom of the design (that
is, the first row of buttons) is 1–3″ (25–76 mm)
further away from the edge of the surface than
the distance between the first and second
horizontal line.
3) Draw the pattern of the pockets, working outward from the center.
4) Locate and mark the position of each button.
5) Lay out the same pattern (but enlarge it) on a
piece of muslin big enough to cover the back
or seat. The pattern area must be larger than
that in the previous steps because it must
hold the padding for the tufts. Usually an
additional 2″ (51 mm) on each dimension of
the diamond or square should be enough,
Figure 10-29.
Chapter 10
Tacking and Stuffing
Channeling and Tufting
165
4) When the first row is stuffed, immediately tack the
covering down to the tack rail.
5) Pack the second row of tufts with stuffing. This
forms the bottom half of the first row of diamondshaped tufts. You may have to fold some of the
material under in pleats, Figure 10-31. Tack
down the next row of button positions and stuff
the top half of the tuft pockets. Then stuff the
lower half of the next row of tufts. Continuing in
the same manner, complete tacking and stuffing
the entire back.
6) Pull loose edges of the muslin tight and tack them
down to their tack rails. Be sure edges are
adequately padded.
1) Lay the piece of muslin over the design created
on the piece of furniture. Line up the first row. Use
strong stitching twine, and tack the muslin down
at the location of each button on the first row. Take
the twine all the way through to the springs and
webbing. Use a knot to secure each tack. Place a
wad of cotton under the twine to prevent the knot
from pulling through.
2) Tack the button positions on the second row,
Figure 10-30. This forms the pockets for the first
row of half diamonds and the lower half of the
second row, which will be full diamonds.
3) Stuff the row of half diamonds first.
Installing Top Cover
1) Lay a thin layer of padding over the entire tufted
surface. Although this step is optional, it is often
preferred because it softens and improves the
appearance of the tufting.
2) Position the final cover. Line up the button positions with the tacked button positions underneath.
3) Tie off the bottom row of buttons.
4) Pin tack adjacent edge of final cover to its tack rail.
5) Position and tie buttons for the rest of the tufted
area.
6) Pull edges tight and pin tack them.
7) Check covering for appearance and adjust, if
necessary. Permanently tack all edges.
Figure 10-27.
Working from the centerline of the grid, mark button
positions at the intersection of grid lines. Begin to
connect button positions with diagonal lines. Lines are
not necessary to the pattern but show if the pattern is
straight or lopsided.
Tufting a Completely Padded Surface
For the beginner, tufting a surface already
padded is much easier than tufting pockets. The
job is made even simpler with the use of foamed
materials.
Other patterns
6″
3″
4″
8″
166
Part 2
Upholstering Processes
Muslin or final cover
wrong side up
Wad of
cotton
Top cover
of tufting
pocket
Twine
tied off
first row
Bottom cover
of tufting
pocket
Figure 10-29.
This is an enlarged grid pattern for a diamond tuft. The
top covering is larger over the tufting to accommodate
the bulge of the padding.
Prepare the foam pad in the regular way as
described in Chapter 7. Then, to prepare the pad
for tufting, use the following procedure.
Preparing Foam Pad for Tufting
1) Lay out the tufting pattern lines on the foam pad,
Figure 10-32.
2) With a sharp knife, cut along the diagonal lines
from button position to button position. Make the
cuts about 1/2″ (25 mm) deep.
3) It may be desirable to cut or drill plugs at the
button positions as shown in Figure 10-33. This
accentuates the tufted appearance.
4) Position the pad on the piece of furniture.
5) Position the marked final cover over the pad and
attach the buttons.
6) Pin tack, adjust, and permanently tack the final
cover to tack rails.
Tufting Vinyl Plastics
Figure 10-28.
This completed tuft pattern suggests contour of chair. Other patterns are possible for either horizontal or vertical treatment.
Tuft
pocket
Tie down
second
row
Tufting is often done using vinyl plastics
such as Naugahyde. This material usually
presents no special problem for the upholsterer.
Figure 10-30.
Cross-sectional view shows tufting pockets being
formed. The first two rows are tied in place at points
where the buttons are to be located. In the next step,
V-shaped pockets formed by tying are stuffed with
padding.
Half stuffed
pockets with pleats
tucked under
Tacked at
point where
button will be
Stuff from
underside
Figure 10-31.
Partial view shows pockets tacked and partially
stuffed. Note how folding excess material under
creates pleats.
Many of these materials are capable of two-way
stretch. Figure 10-34 shows how tufting on vinyl
plastic is done.
Chapter 10
Figure 10-32.
Draw a tufting pattern on foam pad trimmed to size
for the chair back. The cutting lines are shown in
color.
A
B
Make shallow
cuts along
all marks
to make
tufting pockets
Channeling and Tufting
Punch or drill
shallow holes
for buttons
167
Tufting pattern
drawn on
foam pad
Figure 10-33.
Make shallow cuts with a sharp utility knife along all
pattern lines so the upholstery cover sinks into them
and the foam fills pockets in the cover.
C
Figure 10-34.
A⎯Mark off button positions on the vinyl plastic material using chalk and a ruler. Work on the wrong side of the
fabric. B⎯Stretch and fold the fabric between the button points for smooth-fitting pockets. Folds should face
downward on the backs so they will not collect dirt. C⎯ Buttons help to preserve folds. Be sure to use heavy twine
to hold buttons in place.
Review Questions—Chapter 10
Do not write in this text. Answer the following
questions on a separate sheet of paper.
1 Channeling is sometimes called _____ or
piping.
2. Define channeling.
3. Describe how the width of a channel is
determined.
4. In laying out channels on the final cover,
why is the width of the channel allowance
wider than the width allowed for the
underside?
5. When are channels padded?
6. Why are thin slabs of foam often preferred as
stuffing for channels?
7. What precaution should be observed in
laying out a tapered channel or a napped or
patterned cover fabric?
8. Describe the channeling method that
eliminates the need for creating pockets and
stuffing them?
9. What is tufting?
10. Tufting that forms squares is called _____
tufting.
11. What are the two basic methods of tufting?
12. Why is a grid pattern used in laying out a
tufting pattern?