E A S T O F T H E L A I R

travel in style
E a s t
o f
Dr
ag
on
‘ s
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BALI STYLE Vol.7 No.5 2011
t h e
To the east of the
dragon isles of Komodo
and Rinca lies the
mysterious, serpentine
island of Flores. Almost
entirely untouched by
mass tourism, Flores
is a goldmine for the
adventurous traveller...
Words and photography
Adam Fenton
L
a
i
r
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A traditional welcome to the village of Ile Padung; Signpost at Kelimutu volcano; Brass bells and spinning a yarn; Eco accommodation at the Kelimutu Eco
Resort; Preparing an ikat for the loom; Cashew nut fruits; Alternative accommodation in Larantuka; Drying the cacao beans in the sun; Boy in Ile Padung village, East Flores.
T
o the east of the dragon isles of
Komodo and Rinca lies the serpentine
island of Flores. Almost entirely
untouched by mass tourism, Flores
represents a goldmine for the
adventurous traveller: a Pandora’s
Box of natural wonders, breathtaking
culture and open-armed locals, quick to smile
and welcome you to their island home. With the
goal of developing sustainable tourism across
the length and breadth of Flores, Swiss-based
NGO Swisscontact Wisata has been industriously
preparing a campaign to bring Flores to the
attention of the world... To entice international
adventurers to experience the wonders of Flores,
beyond the two well-known attractions of the
Komodo dragons and three coloured lakes of
Kelimutu. ...
Part I
Hosted by our friends at Swisscontact, who
took care of all the travel and accommodation
arrangements, we had a full itinerary which, in
the space of just over a week, took us literally
from one end of the this incredible island to the
other. From forgotten dusty coastal tracks, to
THIS PAGE: Making our way along a
dusty coastal road in eastern Flores.
Sometimes the going is tough, but we are
rewarded with the majesty of an untouched
landscape and fascinating culture.
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the Trans-Flores highway which winds its way
through some of the most dramatic mountain
scenery in the country, we saw it all! And it was
an entrancing experience, from the very first
welcome dance at Maumere airport – where
dancers wrapped in traditional ikats with brass
bells on their ankles performed for us to a
rousing drum accompaniment – to a whirlwind
tour which saw us sip fiery arak from coconut
shells and feast on pork and wild rice among
the tall thatch roofs and smiling people of the
remote mountain village of Belaraghi. We saw
deserted white sand beaches and marvelled at a
misty, golden dawn over the three volcanic lakes
of Kelimutu. In the village of Tado we witnessed
the swirling, crackling spectacle of a caci whip
fight, and then negotiated the purchase of woven
ikats patiently created by the women of Flores.
Next came a luncheon in a prehistoric cave,
inhabited 18,000 years ago by the diminutive
Homo Floresiensis, the so-called “hobbit” people.
From the spider-web shaped lingko ricefields of
Manggarai, to the colonial-era coffee and cashew
nut plantations of Eastern Flores, everywhere
we went we were treated to smiling friendly
welcomes by the predominantly Catholic locals.
It was, in one word, unique; although I might
“With the goal
of developing
sustainable
tourism across
the length and
breadth of
Flores, Swissbased NGO
Swisscontact
Wisata has been
industriously
preparing a
campaign to
bring Flores to
the attention of
the world...”
THIS PAGE: Weaving
with a smile - creating
one of Flores’ famous
ikats in Dokar village.
just as well say mesmerising, fascinating, unforgettable. So full was
our itinerary that, regretfully, we could not see it all. But that means
there’s always something to go back for. And believe me, once you
have been to Flores it will remain with you, a fond and enticing
memory, a faint yet persistent voice calling you back to experience
the island once more. What was it? Life. Simple, real. A connection to
the earth and to people and cultures...
Day 1 - Maumere and the east
One of my most vivid memories of Flores is the ikat. Ikat is the
word which refers to the kaleidoscopic range of earthy woven
fabrics that are so ubiquitous on the island. Ikats are worn as a daily
garment, drawn up around the shoulders like a scarf, or around the
waist as with a sarong. In cold weather they can be pulled up to
the shoulders like a mobile sleeping bag. They are simply the most
versatile garment I have ever seen. And everyone wears one. It’s
wonderful. Each region has its own distinct styles and patterns and
colours, and expert eyes will be able to tell you the good from the
bad, the hand-made from the factory-made. Just purchasing an ikat
is one of the greatest joys of a trip to Flores. You may even find it
slightly addictive. I left with no less than three, and was constantly
eyeing what else was on offer. An excellent precursor to purchasing
an ikat, which you will no doubt see if you go to a traditional village,
is to view the entire process of making the garment, from the refining
of the cotton or kapok, to spinning it into a single thread which is
then dyed with natural dyes, indigo for navy blue, the mashed roots
of the mengkudu tree for brown. The entire process can be seen at
several villages, one of which is Doka Tawa Tana in Sikka district,
not far from Maumere. Once again, brass bells were strapped to
THIS PAGE: Faces of
Flroes - sincere and friendly,
the Florenese are ready to
welcome guests to their
island home.
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BALI STYLE Vol.7 No.5 2011
“Ikats are worn as
a daily garment,
drawn up around the
shoulders like a scarf,
or around the waist
as with a sarong...”
THIS PAGE: A welcome
dance is performed for
guests in Ile Padung.
ankles and dancers were wrapped
in their finest ikats and brightest
blouses to welcome us to their
village in the misty mountains.
We were warmly welcomed
into the heart of the village with
the Sakalele dance, which was
followed by a heartfelt speech by
the village head, welcoming us as
honoured guests. We were treated
to traditional foods, tobacco and
betelnut for those who wished to
try it. For me, trying betulnut with
lime was a first. It is not exactly a
pleasant flavour, however one
can feel a slight stimulant effect,
almost like the buzz that comes
with a cup of coffee or a cigarette.
We were treated to several more
dance performances, including
one where a young man of the
village balanced with gravitydefying skill atop a bamboo pole
held upright by a group of fellow
villagers. As always, many ikats
were up for sale, and several of
our group made purchases. Prices
range from around Rp150,000 for
a small ikat the size of a shawl,
to upwards of Rp1.500.000 for a
sarong/wall hanging sized item.
Before departing we were asked
to join in one last performance, a
farewell dance, which provided
the highlight of the day for
me, linking hands with these
warm-hearted villagers as they
danced and joined in song with
such heartfelt spirituality. It was
truly an uplifting, extraordinary
experience.
“We were warmly
welcomed into
the heart of the
village with the
Sakalele dance,
which was
followed by a
heartfelt speech
by the village
head, welcoming
us as honoured
guests...”
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BALI STYLE Vol.7 No.5 2011
“These remote beaches, with the
majestic Lewotobi volcano in
the background, offer white
sand and turquoise waters,
the sort of thing city-weary
international tourists dream
of...”
THIS PAGE: Dazzling
white sands and blue
skies over remote Oa
beach in eastern Flores.
THIS PAGE: Flores’ iconic ikats in a variety
of forms, styles and functions - dance
costume, head band, shawl, sarong; these
hand-dyed and hand-woven garments are
an integral part of Flores culture.
THIS PAGE: As part of a welcome dance
in the village of Dokar, a young man
balances precariously and daringly atop a
two-metre-high bamboo pole.
“We were treated to several
more dance performances,
including one where a young
man of the village balanced
with gravity-defying skill atop
a bamboo pole...”
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BALI STYLE Vol.7 No.5 2011
THIS PAGE: The misty, turquoise lakes of
Kelimutu volcano at dawn.
Day 2 - Beaches and convents
From Dokar we boarded our dusty buses
and headed east. After a few hours of driving
along winding roads through the heartland
of East Flores, we turned off the main Flores
highway for an hour-long bone-shuddering
ride to Oa and Rako Beaches. These remote
beaches, with the majestic Lewotobi volcano
in the background, offer white sand and
turquoise waters, the sort of thing city-weary
international tourists dream of. However
there were virtually no facilities for tourists
there, so an adventurous traveller would need
to arrange transport and bring everything
needed to visit this location. Unfortunately [or
fortunately, depending on how you look at it],
the international travel agents in our group said
they simply could not include this location on a
travel program, as the condition of the road was
too rough, and there were no facilities. It was a
case of being too far out of the way to justify
the trip, even though it is a stunning location.
So for those who like their travel destinations
untouched, take note.
Embarking again, we travelled another
few hours, headed east. Two tyre punctures
couldn’t stop us, although they did slow us
down a bit, so that we arrived late at the village
of Lewokluo. This village is known for its
unique type of ikat which has small seashells
sewn into the beautiful designs, and dyed
predominantly burgundy brown using a dye
from the bark of the mengkudu tree. Again,
we were able to make purchases, and several
people contributed to the local economy.
Prices here were similar to those in Dokar. A
couple more hours on the road brought us to
Larantuka, the main city on the eastern side
of Flores. Some of our group checked in at the
Sunrise Hotel, a beachside resort hotel, while the
rest went on to check in at the Susteran Weri,
a convent run by Catholic nuns which offers
excellent, homestay-type accommodations.
Everything was spotlessly clean and well taken
care of – and appeared brand new, even though
the convent has been operating for a few years.
For dinner we all met up in the dining hall of
the main convent for a buffet meal of chicken,
“Unfortunately,
cloud cover
to the east
obscured
the sunrise,
however
it was a
spectacular
experience
to just to see
the natural
wonder that is
Kelimutu...”
BALI STYLE Vol.7 No.5 2011
109
vegetables and rice, followed by a discussion
with representatives of the local tourism
department.
Day 3 - Cashews, cacao and coffee
Breakfast at the Susteran Weri. The
Susteran was very popular, as it was so well
maintained and clean. We departed for Ile
Padung, another traditional village where
we were welcomed with a spectacular
dance. The leader of our group was asked
to cut the “ribbon” -- a rattan vine -- which
then allowed us into the village. We were
shown the ikat making process, and then
had a talk from the heads of the cooperative
which represents some 1500 local growers
of cashew nuts. Unfortunately the harvest
this year is down some 60% from last year’s
due to a crop blight. Departing Ile Padung,
we headed back west for about two hours,
stopping at Hokeng for a deliciously fresh
buffet lunch of fish, chicken, red rice and
fruits. Hokeng is a catholic seminary and
plantation that dates back to colonial times,
set up in the 1920s. We were shown around
by the current priest, Romo. He showed us
just a small part of the 350 hectare plantation
which grows a variety of crops, including
cacao, coffee, vanilla, pepper and fruits.
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We also saw the traditional processing of
palm sugar into delicious “caramelly” disks
around the size of a drink coaster. Then we
saw the cacao and coffee roasting factory,
with just enough time left for a quick stop
at the fascinating underground catacombs
and church. Back on the buses for a few
more hours, we headed onward to the west
until we reached Koka beach on the central
south coast, right around sunset. It was a two
kilometer walk from the road to the beach,
and unfortunately by the time we arrived
the light was too low for photography.
Next stop was Moni, the village closest to
the Kelimutu crater. After a dinner in a local
restaurant, we were shown to our beds to get
some rest for the early start we would make
in the morning to the summit of Kelimutu.
Day 4 - Kelimutu in a panic
Almost missed the bus. Awoke in a mild
panic at about 4:25am only to find that all
the others staying at my hotel had already
departed! I was lucky enough to hail a bus just
as it was leaving for Kelimutu. Arriving in
time at the Kelimutu National Park, I walked
20-30 minutes and got to the crater lakes
just as dawn was breaking. Unfortunately,
cloud cover to the east obscured the sunrise,
however it was a spectacular experience
to just to see the natural wonder that is
Kelimutu. Two of the lakes at this time were
different shades of turquoise and the third
lake was a deep black. We went on a nature
walk in the arboretum, taking in many
native trees, as well as a bird with the most
beautiful, lilting song I have ever heard -- a
song that is called, as I was told, a Girugiwa.
Back in Moni I enjoyed a refreshing, ice
cold mandi [bath], followed by some sweet
strong coffee, banana pancakes and fresh
fruit -- a good old standard backpacker’s
breakfast. It was market day, so I could not
resist browsing the ikats on offer, and just
had to pick up another bargain – somebody
stop me! They are just irresistible once you
see the wonderful colours and patterns.
On the way out of Moni we stopped at
the Kelimutu Ecolodge which looks like a
wonderful place to stay, with solar power
and a very natural setting.
As we continued to head west from
Moni, we were still only half way through
our trip across this remarkable island. Misty
lakes, mountain tribes, spiderweb ricefields
and lunch in a hobbit’s cave were all still
ahead of us... [Part 2 coming in Vol.8 No.1]
www.florestourism.com
OPPOSITE PAGE: The ikats of Lewokluo
are famous for having seashells woven
into their design; Finished ikat products for
sale with a smile THIS PAGE: Summit of
Kelimutu at dawn.
where to stay:
Maumere
Sylvia Hotel – Recently-opened city hotel.
Indovision, hot/cold water, swimming pool.
Rp300,000 - Rp450,000 including breakfast.
Tel: 0382-21829 sylviahotelmaumere@gmail.
com
Wailiti – Beach bungalows, swimming pool.
Rp300,000 A/C and hot water.
Gading Beach – Beach bungalows. Rp150,000
for non-AC rooms and Rp200,000 for AC
rooms.
SeaWorld Hotel – With coconut wood AC
beachside bungalows the accommodations
were beautiful. Tel: +62-382-21570/22298
Larantuka
Susteran PRR Santa Maria – clean and well
run Catholic convent. Tel: +6285239478861
Sunrise Hotel – Beachside accommodations.
Tel: +623832325010
Moni
Flores Sare – Basic accommodations. Tel:
+6281353871357
Kelimutu Ecolodge – Tel: +62-361-7474205.
www.ecolodgesindonesia.com