2008 Jeep Wrangler 4 door, leak corrections. Leak #1: Hard Top

2008 Jeep Wrangler 4 door, leak corrections.
9/12/08
The following is a log of the various leaks I experienced with my particular 2008 Jeep Wrangler 4 door,
and the steps that were taken to finally correct the leaks.
I purchased the dual top option. With the hard top on, I experienced leak #1 and #2 described below.
With the soft top on, I also experienced leaks at all four door seals.
Here is the list of the various leaks and corrective measures taken that finally solved them for me:
Leak #1: Hard Top Freedom Panel, Front Center Seal Leak
1
3
2
Water drips from the center seal in the Hard Top Freedom
Panels (1) where it meets the windshield header weather strip.
The water drips onto the top of the center dash console (2).
Corrective Action: Service Bulletin 23-020-08 dated June 20,
2008 performed which replaces the center seal with the most
current version, part number 55397095G.
Others who have observed this leak have experienced some
success by adding a product called Sil-Glyde (Napa Auto Parts
number 765-1351) to this leak prone area. Sil-Glyde is a silicone
based lubricant/sealant with a similar consistency to Vaseline,
however since is silicone based, it will not harm rubber seals. It
states on the tube that among other uses, it is good for truck
seals and weather stripping. It is not freezing or melting (it can
withstand -20 to 600 degrees F), non gumming, weatherproof,
non running, and repels water.
Leak #2 A Pillar Water Leak
1
2
On both the driver side and passenger side, water
drips down between the plastic trim between the
windshield frame and the door (1) , and fall onto the
dashboard behind the tweeter speaker (2). Upon
removing the upper plastic trim (3), I was able to see
that the water was coming from behind the body-todoor frame cup seal (4) which is part of the
windshield header seal. Water was penetrating into
the windshield header weather strip.
Corrective Action: The dealership replaced the
windshield header weather strip, with the newest
one, part number, 55397454AB, but unfortunately
this did not correct the leak.
3
4
5
With additional water testing, I observed that water
was seeping into the area depicted within the white
brackets in figure 5. This water would then migrate
behind the body-to-door frame cup seal depicted in
figure 4, and then continue to leak in as depicted in
figures 1, 2, and 3.
The dealership applied a liberal amount of butyl
adhesive to the area depicted with black brackets in
figures 5 and 6 on both the driver and passenger
sides. This stopped water from penetrating behind
the seal and stopped the leaks.
6
Leak #3: Soft Top Water Leak at A-Pillar Front Door Seal to Door Rail Interface
This leak is characterized by water dripping
through the front driver and/or passenger
door seal and dripping onto the top of the
inside door latches.
1
The rail has been lifted away to expose the cup seal
This is caused by water migrating between
the soft top door rail
and the body-to-door frame cup seal.
Corrective Action:
The dealership
replaced the windshield header weather
strip, with the newest one, part number,
55397454AB (same seal as in Leak #2).
Service Bulletin 23-002-08 also calls for
foam pieces to be installed from foam kit
part number 68026937AA.
2
I have found that the foam piece (2) that is
added to the soft top door rail (1), tends to
lose its adhesion and slides down in hot
weather causing it to bunch up below the
front door weather strip seal. I trimmed
away the excess foam, and I have still not
experienced any leaks from this area since
the corrective action.
Note: The Camper Tape described in
Corrective Action for Leak #4 might work in
place of the foam pieces from the
68026937AA. I have not tested this however; since I am not experiencing leak #3 anymore and I don’t
want to push my luck to try it.
Leak #4: Soft Top Water Leak at B-Pillar Rear Door Seal
On both the driver and passenger sides, water
penetrates the rear door weather strip and runs down
the forward part of the rear door (1).
1
The cause of this leak was from repeated opening and
closing of the rear doors, the door weather strip would
crush and push forward the foam piece that is part of
the soft top rear door rail (2).
2
This damaged foam creates a drip edge whereby water would run pass the door seal, and into the
inside.
Corrective Action: To my knowledge there are not any Service Bulletins to correct this leak other than
replacing the existing foam with new pieces which are then subject to the same crushing and pushing as
in figure 2. The following is what I did to correct the leak:
1.
I purchased a roll of Camper Foam Tape which is very similar to the foam tape used on the rear
door rails. Napa Auto Parts number 770-1763. The tape is 1-1/4” wide and 3/16” thick, one side has
adhesive (3) (4). For about $10, you get a 30 foot roll. (Enough quantity for the life of your Jeep.)
3
4
2. Remove the rear door rails. Using a sharp razor knife, cut away a rectangular piece of the foam (as
depicted in figures 5, 6, and 7) containing the crushed portion as well as a portion that would sit
inside the rear cup seal depicted in figure 2. The foam cuts very easily, do not put much force on the
knife (damaging the plastic door rail).
5
6
7
8
3. Press an approximate 3” piece of Camper Tape into the place you just cut away (8). Reinstall the
rear door rails.
4. Trim away the new foam approximately 1-3/4” to 1-1/2” from the edge of the cup seal (9). This is
important because the rear door weather strip as a ridged foam “stuffer” in the upper portion of the
door to help seal the corner. You can feel the end of this “stuffer” with your finger as depicted in
figure 10. The stuffer will press against the foam to create a good seal when the door is shut. If the
foam extends back past the stuffer, the door weather strip will not compress the edge of the foam
properly which will cause a drip edge for leaks to occur again.
9
1-3/4” to 1-1/2
10
11
Figure 11 shows the foam edge crushed by the stuffer in the door weather strip, creating a water tight
seal. This foam extends much further past the cup seal than the original factory foam. Due to the added
length, it should resist the door’s tendency to push the foam forward overtop of the cup seal again. A
slight application of Sil-Glyde (see Leak #1 for information) on the foam piece can aid in reducing friction
from the door seal which helps to prevent the foam from being pushed forward.