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HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT SECTION 1:
12 HOUR HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT
Course Outline:
Section 1:

Introduction

History of Color

Basic Chemistry
Section 2:

Hair Toner

Hair Color Removal Process

Punk Hair

How-To Photo Galleries and Tips

Blonde Hair Styles

Red Hair

Brunette Hair
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Section 3:

New Hair Color Trends

Going from Blonde to Dark

Highlighting Hair Using Foils

Foiling Hair

Highlight/Lowlight Process Using Foil

Hair Coloring How-To Tutorial
Section 4:

Bleaching Hair

Hair Bleach

Hair Bleaching for Blonding

Coloring Grey Hair

How Hair Coloring Works
Section 5:

Types of Hair Coloring

Adverse Effects of Hair Coloring

Choosing a Hair Color

Alternatives to Industrial Tints
Section 6:

Hair Coloring Techniques

Hair Coloring Ideas

Summary of Hair Color Chemistry

Coloring During Pregnancy
Section 7:
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
Salon Business Management and Strategies
Learning Objectives:
Upon completion of this course the student will be knowledgably informed of the
following topics:
1. The History of Color
Early records show that the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Hebrews, Persians,
Chinese, and early Hindu peoples all mention using hair colourings in one
form or another. Humans were likely dyeing their hair well before the
ancient Egyptians discovered that the leaves of the henna shrub could
restore a youthful black or red to their locks, even for those being
mummified.
2. Basic Chemistry
Hair Coloring Formula
Virgin Hair
(no artificial color present)
Underlying Pigment
+ Artificial Pigments
______________________
Final Result
Previously Colored Hair
Underlying Pigment of
Regrowth
+ Existing Artificial
Pigments
+ Artificial Pigments in New
Color
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_______________________
Final Result
3. The Color Wheel and Underlying Pigments
4. Toning Hair Tips and Techniques
Anytime you pre-lighten the hair and add another color to tone out the
underlying pigments, the process can be considered "toning".
5. Techniques for Removing Artificial Pigment
Oxidative hair color removers remove artificial pigments without bleach.
They work by shrinking the color molecule so that it washes out of the
hair.
6. Tips for Creating Bright, Wild Colors (Punk Hair Color)
Punk hair color is fun to experiment with and makes a bold statement to
the world about who you are. This section details the process for
bleaching hair and applying your hair color successfully.
7. Selecting Hair Color Shades for Clients
For very fair skin, a touch of gold in your blonde shade can help to warm
up your skin tone. Ash tones are great for those who have a reddish
complexion as the cool hues will help neutralize the redness.
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8. Choosing the Right Blonde, Red, and Brunette Coloring
Getting a natural looking blonde hair style is tricky. Most people's hair has
a lot of yellow-orange underlying pigment. To achieve a very light blonde,
the hair MUST be lightened to the pale yellow stage.
9. Highlighting Hair Using Foils
This section will detail the technical aspects of highlighting hair using foils
(or another material). Foiling hair is a hair coloring technique used to
separate sections, preventing different color formulas from mixing
together.
10. Bleaching Hair/Mixing, Application, and Processing
This section offers advice on bleaching hair. You'll find information on
mixing, application, and processing times when using bleach.
11. Hair Bleach, Cautions and Considerations
Get advice on using hair bleach safely and effectively. If you're doing an
allover blonde hair color, you'll have to apply hair bleach to the scalp,
which can cause blistering and chemical burns.
12. Hair Bleaching for Blonding
This section offers advice on hair bleaching safely and effectively to get a
true blonde hair color.
13. Coloring Grey Hair
The process of coloring grey hair can be challenging. And as the ratio of
grey/natural hair shifts to a majority of grey hair, the challenge increases...
or so it seems. This section details the critical elements, as well as a few
"insider tips" for success.
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14. How Hair Coloring Work
The hair color contains tiny color molecules that enter the hair's cuticle, or
outer layer, and go into your hair's cortex. They don't interact with your
natural pigments. And since the molecules are small, they eventually exit
the hair shaft after several shampoos, leaving the hair as it was before
treatment.
15. Types of Hair Color
The four most common classifications are 'temporary', 'semi-permanent',
'demi-permanent' (sometimes called 'deposit only') and "permanent".
16. Adverse Effects of Hair Coloring
Hair coloring involves the use of chemicals capable of removing, replacing
and/or covering up pigments naturally found inside the hair shaft. We will
discuss how the use of these chemicals can result in a range of adverse
effects, including temporary skin irritation and allergy, hair breakage, skin
discoloration and unexpected hair color results.
17. Hair Coloring Techniques
Modern hair coloring techniques add true dimension to style right down
to the natural movement of your hair. We will discuss the concepts of
highlights, twilights, and lowlights and how these choices enhance both
your face and your hairstyle.
18. New and Innovative Hair Coloring Ideas
Expert beauty consultants predict that the trend in hair colors is moving
away from dramatic color and back towards more natural colors and
highlighting techniques.
19. Chemistry of Hair Coloring
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Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is an oxidizing chemical that bleaches the
natural pigments in human hair.
20. Coloring during Pregnancy
Ultimately, the decision of whether to color hair during pregnancy is a very
personal one. This class will talked about the pros and cons of receiving hair
color during pregnancy.
21. Salon Business Management and Strategies
Writing a Salon Business Plan is one of the first things you should do if
you are planning on starting your own Salon business. By means of
examples, this section will give some practical ideas and strategies to start
a successful salon business.
22. North Carolina State Board of Cosmetic Arts Rules and Regulations:
Remaining in compliance with State Board Rules and Regulations is the
most important aspect of performing safe and sanitary services. This will
contribute to repeat clients who respect your services. This section will
provide an outline of the North Carolina State Board of Cosmetic Arts:
Laws, Regulations, Civil Penalties, and Sanitation Rules.
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12 HOUR HAIR COLORING
CONCEPTS AND SALON
MANAGEMENT
Introduction
Hair coloring is one of the most rewarding services offered at a salon. Many stylist shy away
from color because of the chemistry, possible problems, and mistakes that could happen. This
course will highlight basics of the coloring process, and discuss the products and techniques to
help you elevate your confidence level as you increase your knowledge. For those with more
advanced hair-coloring experience, this course will refresh your training and introduce some
new concepts.
Why Many Stylists Often Fear Haircoloring
The biggest reason anyone is ever afraid is lack of knowledge. Timid about attempting
haircoloring, stylists often discourage people from trying a tint or color effect. Yes, this
strange phenomenon occurs more times than you would think! Stylists have actually
talked customers out of trying color, resulting in the loss of larger service revenues,
retail sales, and eventually the loss of the client, who is dis-appointed by not receiving
the service requested.
Other reasons stylists are afraid to try color or suggest it to clients are: a previous
experience that was a disaster, lack of confidence arising from lack of experience, and
fear of client rejection with the finished look. Either they don't know what to do with
colors or they are afraid to try! Fear keeps the potentially successful stylist from
becoming a true technician (and rich).
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Although most students understand that practice makes perfect, it is perhaps
more difficult to understand that in cosmetology, perfect might be a rut. You might
learn something to perfection and never go past that point. Hopefully this course
will broaden your understanding, first and foremost. Beyond that, it will challenge
you to experiment, to think past the immediate moment, and to go forward with
confidence, even if you tried something and it failed. One of the best wa ys to
become successful is to know failure.
History
Did you know that hair dye has been around for thousands of years? Early records show that
the ancient Egyptians, Greeks, Hebrews, Persians, Chinese, and early Hindu peoples all mention
using hair colourings in one form or another. Humans were likely dyeing their hair well before
the ancient Egyptians discovered that the leaves of the henna shrub could restore a youthful
black or red to their locks, even for those being mummified. In his 1986 book, “The Science of
Hair Care,” former L’Oreal Chairman and CEO Charles Zviak writes that bottle blondes officially
debuted in the 1860s, when Napoleon III’s mistress, Cora Pearl, bleached her hair with
hydrogen peroxide. In 1867, a London chemist and Parisian hairdresser popularized the method
with a peroxide lotion with a French name that means “Golden water from the fountain of
youth.”
Up until the 19th century, the only dyes available were those that had been prepared from a
natural source, and by combining various plant extracts, it was possible to create a fairly
extensive range of colors. Indigo, although commonly used as a fabric dye, could be mixed with
henna to give varying shades of brown for example.
Other substances that have been used for dyeing hair or wigs are rock alum, black sulfur, and
honey. Lead, quicklime, and salt, or silver nitrate in rose water. Another early method of
coloring hair was to apply powders made up of wheat starch, powder of parish or potato starch
combined with chalk, burnt alabaster, and the colorants, burnt sienna or umber.
The late nineteenth century saw the introduction of Hydrogen peroxide at the Paris Exposition
as an efficient hair lightener and thus begun the experimentation of chemical compounds to
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produce a synthetic dye. The first chemical compound developed was pyrogallol, and from
1845, pyrogallol (in combination with henna) was used to dye hair brown.
The 1880s saw the introduction of amino dyes of which p-phenylenediamine was the earliest.
Before being applied to the hair it had to be mixed with caustic soda, sodium carbonate, or
ammonia. Hydrogen peroxide was then applied, which then brought out the color.
Clairol were the makers to pioneer the first one-step hair dye in 1950. This made the process of
dyeing hair so much easier and with a sophisticated chemical compound it meant that the timeconsuming shampoo and pre-lightening steps could be eliminated from the process. Within a
short space of time, women in the U.S. quickly realized that hair dye had developed into an easy
to use product and by 1973 over 50% of women were taking advantage of this wonder product.
But what do our modern hair dyes contain now? There is not a doubt that it is a complex mix of
ingredients, with each manufacturer differing in formula to retain an element of uniqueness.
Hair dyes generally contain dyes, modifiers, antioxidants, alkalizers, soaps, ammonia, wetting
agents, and a plethora of different fragrance, and a mixture of other compounds used to impart
different qualities to hair depending on hair type, color and texture. The chemicals are normally
amino compounds, and you can recognize them by names such as 4-amino-2-hydroxytoluene
and m-Aminophenol. Metal oxides, can also be added as pigment.
Resorcinol is a commonly used modifier, used to bring out the tone of color or set the dye. The
dye is prevented from oxidizing with air by using an antioxidant such as sodium sulfite. Dyes
work most efficiently in an alkaline composition so alkalizers (such as ammonium hydroxide)
are added to the dye to change its PH formula.
Added to these basic chemicals, will be a variety of chemicals to give a certain dye solution
certain qualities will be suitable for different hair types and provide different application
experiences.
Hydrogen peroxide is usually added to the product in a separate container and used as a
developer.
There are various types of hair dyes on the market. These are temporary hair colors and Semi
permanent dyes, which penetrate into the hair shaft, but wash out of the hair after five to ten
shampoos.
A dye such as Grecian Formula 16 works by penetrating the cuticle and the Pb2+ ions react with
sulfur atoms in the proteins to form lead sulfide (PbS), this give the effect of looking dark in
color. This is a gradual dye that works by being applied on a regular basis to "build" up the color
of the hair.
So the next time you reach for that bottle of dye or sit patiently in the hairdressing salon, as the
smells of the chemicals waft around your nose you can reflect on the long journey that those
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hair dyes have actually been on, beginning with the base, natural and primitive ingredients of
our ancient world through to the first tentative experimentation with permanent color to the
sophisticated and easy to apply dyes of the modern world.
BASIC CHEMISTRY
The Hair Color Wheel
There are some very specific rules that come into play with hair coloring. This page outlines the
basic chemistry involved and highlights some of the most critical rules to keep in mind. Knowing
where you're starting, where you're going and what to expect along the way is the best way to
ensure good results from your color.
Here's the formula... nice 'n simple...
Hair Coloring Formula
Virgin Hair
(no artificial color present)
Underlying Pigment
+ Artificial Pigments
______________________
Final Result
Previously Colored Hair
Underlying Pigment of
Regrowth
+ Existing Artificial Pigments
+ Artificial Pigments in New
Color
_______________________
Final Result
Step One - Identify Natural Haircolor Level
An international system is used to identify the level of darkness of your hair, 1 being the darkest
(black) and 10 being the lightest (blonde). Match your hair (just the regrowth if it's previously
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colored) to the hair color swatch below that most closely resembles the darkness of your
haircolor...not necessarily the tone, which could be warm (red), cool (ash), or neutral, but the
degree of lightness or darkness.
Step Two - Identify Your Underlying Pigment
A hair coloring process that involves any amount of hydrogen peroxide (which can include some
semi-permanent formulas) will bring out the natural underlying pigment of your hair.
The "natural looking" tone that's visible as your hair color is not the true tone when it comes to
the chemistry of hair coloring.
Think of it as a surface layer that's stripped away, and laying in wait underneath are the bold
and brassy tones of your underlying pigment.
The chart above clearly illustrates which color of underlying pigment corresponds with the
natural level you identified in step one. So now you know what you're dealing with.
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Step Three - Understand the Color Wheel
The color wheel is a universal chart which shows how all colors are created from just three
basic (primary) colors. Here's how it goes...
Primary Colors (inner circle) - Red, Yellow, and Blue
Secondary Colors (middle ring) - Orange, Green, and Purple
Secondary colors are made by mixing 2 primary colors together:
Red + Yellow = Orange
Red + Blue = Purple
Blue + Yellow = Green
Tertiary Colors (outer ring)
Created by mixing primary and secondary colors together:
Yellow + Orange = Orange/Yellow
Yellow + Green = Yellow/Green (lime green)
Blue + Green = Blue/Green
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Blue + Purple = Blue/Violet
Red + Purple = Red/Violet
Red + Orange = Red/Orange
Why is the hair color wheel so important?
1) All hair color is comprised of different ratios of the primary colors (red, yellow, blue).
2) It clearly illustrates which colors neutralize which...find the primary color you want to tone
away and look directly across the chart to the opposite secondary color.
**Mixing all three primary colors equally creates BROWN**
So creating a neutral tone is achieved by mudding out the underlying pigment using an
opposing color.
Because underlying pigments are all reds, oranges, and yellows, you must consider that you are
not beginning with a blank canvas...you're adding color to color, so the results will be a
combination of all elements.
The Law of Color
You can enhance anyone's appearance with color! Understanding color theory is as
easy as knowing the simple Law of Color and relating it to addition and sub-traction.
Believe it or not, hairdressers did not invent any of the simple color laws, which trace
back to Isaac Newton. Around the same time the apple fell on his head, he discovered
that when white light passes through a prism, that light reflects six colors, which make
up the colors of the rainbow and are the basis for the color wheel. These six colors are:
Primary colors: yellow, red, and blue
Secondary colors: orange, violet, and green
Primary colors are colors in their purest form. They are the three strongest and most
influential pigments! Any color on earth can be broken down to yellow, red, or blue.
Yellow is the lightest primary and is warm in value. It is the color hair colorists use most,
for it creates the most highlighted effect. Red is the medium-bright primary that reflects
more light than the other colors; therefore, it catches the eye first. It is also the strongest
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of the warm primary colors. Blue is the darkest, strongest primary. Any time more blue
than red or yellow is used in a formula, the color will not only be darker, but less bright.
It is the only primary with a cool pigment.
Secondary colors are created when two primaries are mixed together. There are three
secondary colors. Orange is the strongest warm secondary color and is made by mixing
yellow and red. Violet is made when red and blue are mixed. It is a cool secondary
because it is based on the cool, strongest primary. Green, the secondary color with the
most coo/ tones, is made by mixing yellow and blue.
When each of the three primaries is placed at the point of a triangle, the three
secondaries will fit on points of another triangle.
This configuration forms the outline of a circle or wheel, hence the term color wheel.
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The wheel divides into halves-a cool side and a warm side. Green, blue, and violet are
cool: red, orange, and yellow are warm.
Note that each primary color on the wheel is opposite a secondary color. These
opposites are the true key to success in hair coloration.
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If colors are opposite each other on the color wheel, they are called complementary
colors. So at does that mean? Complementary means that they complement one
another. For example, when yellow is placed next to violet, both colors look their most
vibrant and attractive. The same is true with orange and blue or green and red. When
two complementary colors are mixed, however, they neutralize or cancel each other,
making brown (center of the wheel).
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All other colors or combinations of colors are called quaternary colors. Although these
colors are the most varied and widespread, they are not essential in understanding the
color wheel because manufacturers describe their products' color bases in terms of
primaries, secondaries, or tertiaries.
This theory is known as the Law of Color, and it is universally accepted. It is the key to
predictable, successful color service.
The Law of Color never changes!
SHADE SYSTEM
The original hair coloring system used as a permanent, penetrating tint is called the
Shade System. It was and still is very effective. The Shade System measures color by
its tonal value, such as reds, naturals, golds, browns, and so forth. While many
technicians still work with the Shade System, most manufacturers today pro-mote the
Level System as easier, and as producing better results.
LEVEL SYSTEM
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The Level System can totally eliminate the fear of haircoloring and remove all the
guesswork from tinting hair. A simple, three-part formula is all you use to determine and
achieve great end results.
The following information is devoted mainly to the exploration and explanation of the
Level System of haircoloring. It includes advanced information usually only provided
to the educators who are teaching other professionals. Hopefully this information is
presented simply, so it becomes basic color knowledge. A good philosophy to
follow is: the more you know, the less you fear.
The term “hair coloring”, as used in this course refers to both the science and art of
changing the hair color by using a variety of products and techniques.
Definition of the Level System
For those who are not clear on what the Level System is, the definition is simple--it is
the numerical system of judging color in stages, or numbers, one level being a measure
of light or dark in the hair. The system assigns a number for measuring dark to light
without regard to tonal value. Level measures are usually represented by the numbers I
through 10, each indicating one equal measure (level). However, because there is no
universal measurement of a level, one company's level chart may vary from another's.
Most of them are similar because there is a limit to the differences between light and
dark.
Think of the Level System as being a ladder. The first
or bottom step is # I (usually signifying black), with # I 0
the highest step on the ladder (usually representing
very pale blonde). The lower the number, the darker the
color; the higher the number, the lighter the color. If you
are presently more familiar with the Shade System,
three to four shades equal approximately one level in
the Level System. The Level System colors always use
numbers to indicate levels (the measure of light and
dark) and letters to refer to tonal value, the major
contributor of pigment in a particular series.
Example: I ON means level 10 natural, 9G means level
9 gold, 10S means level 10 silver Some use more than
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one letter, indicating contributions of more than one dominant tone.
Example: GB (gold, beige).
If you're a blonde (level 7), trying to go lighter, without the brassy tones...your underlying
pigment is yellow. You must use a purple based (ash) color to neutralize the underlying
pigment. Any darker than level 7 and the orange underlying pigment comes into play,
for which you need blue based color, except blondes don't contain enough blue to tone
out orange, so you'll need to pre-lighten to bring up the underlying pigment to a yellow
(preferably pale yellow) tone, then apply a purple based (ash) hair toner (semipermanent color).
Alternatively, if you're a dark brown (level 3) and you want to lighten up to a slightly
golden brown (level 6). You'd need to consider that you're dealing with a very strong
red-orange underlying pigment, so adding gold (orange based) color will amplify the
orange and bring out the brass. Go for a neutral shade, or even slightly cool to mud out
some, but not all of the orange.
So you see, each hair coloring process has its own set of variables. If your hair is
previously colored, the formula becomes slightly more complicated as you must take
into account the artificial pigment already on the hair. In this case it's imperative you
know that color does not remove artificial pigment, so if you want to lighten already
colored hair...you're going to need bleach...and it will lighten slower than the natural
regrowth. Tricky...ummm, yeah.
Another option would be to use a hair color removal product, which only removes the
artificial pigment. Also tricky, and more expensive, but in the long run, it can save you
both dollars and further damage to your hair.
Categories of Color
The Level System consists of four basic categories of color. These categories are:
The B category, dark brown and black: People born with black or dark brown hair
Levels 1, 2, and sometimes 3 are in the black dark brown category. They may have
some reddish highlights. Their hair darkens with age until it turns gray.
The W category, warm brown: People born with blonde hair that gradually darkens
through adolescence. Even before the hair begins to gray the natural hair color loses its
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warmth and starts to flatten. The hair colorist must keep in mind that the original
undertones are still present although the hair has turned gray. These clients can
generally wear red tones very well and often request them. They also wear highlights
very well. The warm category can include levels from 5 to 10.
The L category, light brown: People born with blonde hair that remains blonde
through adolescence. Their hair gradually darkens in their teens to a soft brown color.
The soft brown category is usually level 5 or 6.
The category red: People born with red hair that remains red through-out adolescence.
Their hair gradually darkens or loses warmth with age. The red category usually falls
into the levels 5, 6, and 7.
Blonde has not been noted as a category. People with blonde hair levels 8, 9, and I0;
do not usually color their hair until it darkens, although they often add even lighter or
brighter highlights for fashion effects. At this point, they are often in the L category.
The Level System is the simplest and most easily performed system of color formulation, providing clear-cut steps to follow with no guesswork. In addition, many level
systems contain lower ammonia levels than their shade system counter-parts,
creating predictable, beautiful results.
PREPARE YOUR CLIENT’S HAIR
For best results (and to avoid common color mishaps), make sure your client’s hair is
ready for the color. People no longer regard hair as merely a protective fiber. In today's
society, hair expresses image, a client's fashion and life-style preferences.
Whether your client requires monthly retouches or simply naturalized effects that last for
months, color is a repeat business when properly done. To look its best, color must be
maintained!
With proper consultation, you can customize your color service, catering to every whim
and need your clients have. The public continues to spend more time and money to look
good. Haircoloring is the most profitable service offered in salons today. Why? A
retouch client averages 10 to 12 visits per year! If you hit on the right formula for the
client, it equals loyalty! Clients are very loyal when it comes to color.
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SECTION 2: HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT
HAIR TONER
Toning Hair Tips and Techniques
Surely you've heard the expression 'bleach and tone'? Toning hair is done to neutralize
brassy (yellow or yellow/orange) pigments. After bleaching hair is the most common
time for using hair toner.
Because bleach leaves the hair in a raw-pigment state which is less-than-attractive, you
need to add back pigments to create a 'natural' look. So... whip up a toner!
What to Use
The most effective product to use for toning hair is a semi-permanent hair color. They
contain a nearly non-existent volume of peroxide (between 5 and 8 percent), so they're
considered deposit only hair color products.
TONING TO NEUTRALIZE
If you've been lightening your hair with permanent hair color, you've probably noticed
that it's become more difficult with time to get the brassy-yellow tones out. That's
because as we mature, our hair naturally darkens and the underlying pigment deepens
to a point where the neutralizing pigments in hair color can't combat the yellow/orange
tones as effectively. You may need to kick it up a notch and pre-lighten by bleaching
your hair.
If you're mixing hair toner for most blonding processes, look for a light or lightest ash
blonde tone. However, because overly porous hair tends to absorb mostly the ash tones
from hair color, if you're coloring this type of hair, add in some neutral... even a bit of
light golden blonde. If you still get a muddy looking color, forgo the ash entirely.
TONING TO BRIGHTEN
A color gloss can liven up a dull blonde or brunette shade. It won't darken your hair, it'll
just deposit a more favorable hue if your shade is dull or slightly off-tone. And it'll amp
up the shine, making your hair look healthier.
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TONING TO DEEPEN
Sometimes highlights are just too light, especially in contrast to a very dark natural
color. In that case, using a hair color to deepen the tone works nicely to restore some
balance between the hues.
The Bottom Line
Not all hair toner processes are reserved for going blonde. Anytime you pre-lighten the
hair and add another color to tone out the underlying pigments, the process can be
considered "toning". It's essentially just a way to say you're using hair color to change
an unwanted tone.
Application
Start applying the toner in the area that needs it the most. Avoid getting any of the
formula on pieces that don't need toning (coating those sections with a bit of conditioner
will help keep them from getting processed if you accidentally get color on them).
Let the toner process for the full time recommended by the manufacturer (usually 30-45
minutes). However, in cases where only slight toning is required, you can rinse it
sooner.
Hair Color Removal
Techniques for Removing Artificial Pigment
Hair color removal is sometimes necessary.
Whether there's been a mistake or you're trying to achieve a much lighter shade than
what you've currently got. This is a challenging process which requires the right
products, good information and realistic expectations.
Methods of Hair Color Removal
COLOR REMOVAL FORMULA
The color removal formula is also known as a decolorizing or stripping shampoo.
Although different types of stripping shampoos work basically the same, a good one for:
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


Removing color from hair to be tinted lighter
Removing excess deposit from hair immediately after tint
Helping pre-soften
Achieving a maximum of one to one and a half levels of lift
is:




2-oz H202
2-oz. bleach (I --2 scoops)
I –oz. shampoo
I –oz. conditioner
This formula is applied at the shampoo bowl, and it must be applied very quickly and
evenly. A recommended use is a tint brush and bowl, applying in broad sweeps of the
brush. Because the formula works very quickly, care must be taken and the formula
must be monitored from the entire time it is on the head. The formula can be
strengthened or weakened by decreasing the amounts of shampoo and conditioner
used, or by diluting with more of the same. When this product is applied, the conditioner
and shampoo act as buffers for the bleach formula, making it far easier on the hair and
scalp.
Oxidative Hair Color Removers
These specialty products remove artificial pigments without bleach. They work by
shrinking the color molecule so that it washes out of the hair.
They are formulated to remove oxidative dyes, which are present in permanent hair
color. Semi permanent hair color is a mixture of oxidative and direct dyes, so these
products won't be as effective for semi-permanent hair color removal.
Because these products target oxidative dyes, they won't remove the natural pigment
from your hair if you have regrowth.
Shampoo Cap
You can lift the artificial pigment out a bit with a "shampoo cap", a gentler form of hair
bleaching.
Mix bleach, peroxide, and shampoo together into a loose paste. Squeeze into the ends
of the hair where the color is the darkest and work through, carefully avoiding the
natural colored hair.
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Bleach doesn't distinguish between natural and artificial pigment, and it lightens natural
pigment more quickly than hair color which can make it difficult to get an even tone
throughout.
This is not a process to undergo if you value the health of your hair. Although it's not as
damaging as all-over blonding with bleach, and the lightening agents aren't on the hair
nearly as long, your hair will need protein/moisture treatments after this process and
may absorb color pigments more voraciously with a tendency towards grabbing the ash
tones. Keep this in mind if you decide to try this process.
For success when removing artificial pigments, whichever method you choose, it's
critical to have a basic understanding of hair coloring chemistry.
Successful Hair Color Removal
Three important facts about existing artificial color on the hair
1) Permanent hair color does not lift out existing artificial hair color.
2) Hair bleaching will lighten artificial pigments (especially very dark
colors) more slowly than natural pigments in regrowth.
3) Some inexpensive (drugstore brand) hair colors contain metallic
salts which can turn your hair to mush if they're processed with
bleach, perm solutions, or chemical straighteners.
Check the ingredients if you've used a drugstore brand hair color to
make sure it doesn't contain any metallic dye components.
Darker colors contain more of this ingredient (in those particular brands), and the more
you've used it, the more metallic salts will have been deposited on/in your hair.
Punk Hair Color
Tips for Creating Bright, Wild Colors
Punk hair color is fun to experiment with and makes a bold statement to the world about
who you are.
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This section details the process for bleaching hair and applying your hair color
successfully.
The more prepared you are, the better your results will be. Whether it's pink hair,
blue hair, green, or purple that you desire, it requires the same simple process.
First pre-lighten, and then apply a quality punk hair color in the shade of your choice.
Prepping Hair for Bright, Punk Hair Color
Hair needs to be pre-lightened in order to get a bright, impactful color. And it needs to
be lightened past the pale yellow stage so the yellow-ish pigments don't mess with the
true tone you're trying to achieve. Only the sections you want colored should be
bleached and can be kept separate with tin foil if necessary.
Be mindful of the fact that if you haven't lightened your hair past the pale yellow stage,
these colors are essentially mixing with the existing pigments in the hair. Think of mixing
paint colors. If you start with yellow and add blue, you'll get a greenish color. If you start
with yellow and add red, you'll get orange. So if you want a vibrant, true-to-tone punk
hair color, you must prelighten the hair to create a "blank slate" that won't interfere with
the results you're trying to achieve.
Considerations
Punk hair color is bright and its job is to stain; which is great, except when it's staining
your bathtub or shower surround. Rinse carefully so you don't create a bunch of colored
splash marks in your bathroom. Don't rinse in worn acrylic or fiberglass tubs and
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showers as they're more likely to stain. Avoid using any hair colors near marble, porous
tile or grout as these stains may never come out.
To maintain your punk hair color for longer, avoid rinsing in very hot water and
use shampoo's and conditioners formulated for colored hair. Don't use clarifying
shampoos until just before you're ready to color again.
Hair Color Picture Gallery
Blonde Hair Style Photos and Advice
Tips for Choosing, Achieving and Maintaining Your Color
A blonde hair style can range from light platinum to dark golden blonde. This page provides
photos and descriptions of different blonde shades. Give your clients the best blonde for their
buck!
Blonde Hair Color with Professional Results
Blonde is probably the most frequently messed up hair color. We've all seen enough
amateur blonde hair styles with brassy roots and frazzled, white, over-colored ends.
Getting a natural looking blonde hair style is tricky. Most people's hair has a lot of
yellow-orange underlying pigment. To achieve a very light blonde, the hair MUST be
lightened to the pale yellow stage. That often requires hair bleaching, then applying hair
toner to deposit the desired tone (i.e., ash, beige, or golden).
Keeping a consistent tone from the roots to the ends of your blonde hair style is also
tricky. That's why so many people are walking around with "hot roots" (bright, brassy
blonde near the scalp). Take the time to learn about hair color chemistry. The more you
understand, the better your hair color results will be.
Choosing a Shade
For very fair skin, a touch of gold in your blonde shade can help to warm up your skin
tone. Ash tones are great for those who have a reddish complexion as the cool hues will
help neutralize the redness.
Caramel blondes work well for natural brunettes, especially around the face where the
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lighter caramel shades will draw attention to the eyes. Olive skin tones benefit from a
more neutral shade of blonde, nothing too warm (golden).
Maintaining Blonde Hair Color
Keep the brassy tones out of your blonde hair style by using a color depositing
shampoo and conditioner.
The conditioners work the best because they don't contain cleansing agents and can be
left on the hair for long periods. The longer they're left on and more often they're used,
the more pigment is deposited onto your hair strand.
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Blonde Hair Style Photos
Platinum blonde hair style
(Level 10 -- this could
actually be considered
level 11 or 12, but the
traditional color level
system only goes to 10,
so we'll stick with that.)
This shade can only be
achieved by bleaching and
toning the hair.
It's best for shorter hair
styles because of the
damage bleaching hair to
this degree causes. The ends
of long hair have been
around, exposed to the
elements for at least a year
or two. They'd look awful
after being so severely
bleached.
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Ash blonde hair style
(level 10 with level 6-8
lowlights)
A combination of light blonde
highlights and ash toned
lowlights create a nice multitonal blonde.
This is the best way to use
ash tones. An all-over ash
color can look greyish, but
breaking it up by only using
the ash for lowlights looks
great!
Yellowish-blonde hair
style
(level 9)
A light blonde with a slightly
yellowish tone. You'll notice
the yellow if you enlarge the
image and compare it to the
ash or platinum above.
This is about as much yellow
as a blonde should have
before it starts looking
brassy. If you look closely,
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you'll see that the yellow
tones are broken up with
platinum blonde highlights.
Neutral slightly golden
blonde
(level 8)
An all over medium dark,
slightly golden toned blonde.
This shade works very well
with a warm skin tone.
Gold tones are always better
when they lean toward the
neutral end of the spectrum.
Too much gold can look
brassy and artificial.
When choosing a hair color
(if you’re doing it yourself)
ALWAYS takes into account
your underlying pigment. If
you choose a golden blonde
off the shelf and apply it to
your hair with an orangeyellow underlying pigment,
you'll end up with a VERY
bright, brassy gold color.
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Golden blonde with light
blonde highlights
(level 7)
The highlights are nicely
placed and the tone blends
well with the golden shade of
the darker color. Just a few
foils in the top layer of your
hair can add great impact
and work well to break up a
solid color.
Sandy blonde hair style
(level 7)
This dark blonde
compliments cooler skin
tones. It's very neutral, but
without the gold in the
photos above.
If you opt for a color like
this, make sure the cut has
some texture and
personality. Otherwise your
hair could look a bit drab.
A few skinny foils 1 or 2
shades lighter would be a
nice addition to break up this
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color and add some
dimension.
Multi-tonal blonde
(level 7)
This color has a bit of
everything. Foil highlights
were added in every one of
the above mentioned tones.
It's a bit too much.
If this were my client, I'd
recommend we add a level 8
color gloss over top which
would not affect the darker
tones. It'd add a bit more
darkness to the lightest
pieces and create more
harmony. She'd still have a
multi-tonal blonde, but it
wouldn't be so reminiscent of
a calico cat.
Stick with a maximum of
three colors when foiling for
a multi-tonal effect.
If you're coloring your hair blonde, consider having your eyebrows tinted.
TIPS FOR BLONDS
1. When lightening brown to blonde, remember there may be underlying unwanted
warm tones.
2. When covering gray hair with a blonde color use a level 7 or darker.
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3. Double-processing is best way to get light pale blonde.
4. If using high-lift blondes that lift only 5 levels, the results can be too warm or
brassy.
5. If highlights become too blonde, lowlights can be foiled into hair for a more
natural color.
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Brunette Hair Style Photos and Advice
Tips For Choosing, Achieving and Maintaining Your Color
Shades of brunette range from a light ash tone to a deep chestnut and
everything in between.
Browns are classic, rich, mysterious, and the easiest of all haircolor to
maintain.
Browns sometimes need to be deepened to add impact, which can easily be
done with a semi or demi permanent color.
Many times, all that's needed to boost a brunette shade is a bit of shine.
Apply a color gloss, in either a tinted shade or clear.
Should you feel the need to lighten things up a bit, opt for a few foiled
highlights, rather than an all-over blonde hair color. That way, you'll get a
more natural look, without the heavy maintenance that's inevitable when
lightening brown hair to blonde.
Take the time to learn about hair color chemistry. The more you understand,
the better your hair color results will be.
Maintaining Brown Hair Color
Keep the rich brown tones present in your hair color by using a color
depositing shampoo and conditioner.
The conditioners work the best because they don't contain cleansing agents
and can be left on the hair for long periods.
The longer they're left on and more often they're used, the more pigment is
deposited onto your hair strand.
Brunette Hair Style Photos
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Ash Brown
(Level 6 with level 7 & 8
natural highlights)
This shade of ash brown is
difficult to achieve with
artificial hair color. There is
just enough highlighting
from the sun to bump this
color out of the "mousy"
category.
Adding a few medium ash or
beige blonde foil highlights
throughout the top of the
hair would give a similar
effect.
Light Auburn Brunette
(level 6-7)
This shade is just on the
verge of belonging in the
Red Hair Color section. It's a
very warm shade of
brunette, which brightens a
medium to fair, warm skin
tone.
Avoid this shade if you have
a cool (pinkish) skin tone.
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Medium Brunette With
Flair!
(levels 6 & 9)
Jazz up a solid brown hair
color with panels of gold.
Slice out a few strips of hair
near the front. Get creative
with the positioning.
Consider how the hair will
lay. Not just the highlighted
piece, but the hair around it
too. Use foil highlights to
color just the section you
want lightened.
The effect is made more
dramatic the lighter (or
brighter) you go. This
technique can be done using
any (complimentary)
combination of colors.
Medium "True" Brunette
(level 5)
Thoughts of "brunette hair
color" often bring to mind a
picture of precisely this
shade. It is a beautiful, rich
shade -- not too light, not
too dark. This is another one
that's difficult to capture with
artificial permanent
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haircolor.
If this is the shade you're
trying to achieve, opt for a
semi-permanent, which
doesn't lift the underlying
pigment. The underlying
pigment always brings gold
and warmth into the picture
because of the way it's
formulated. To avoid the
gold, go with a "deposit only"
hair color.
Dark Brunette Hair Color
(level 3-4)
This deep rich, shade of
brunette has a warm hue,
great for a dramatic effect on
warm skin tones.
A sprinkle of very thin
highlights, just a shade or
two lighter, adds some
dimension to the color.
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Deepest Brunette
(level 2)
This shade is slightly darker
than the one above, and has
cool undertones, rather than
warm. Can you see the
difference? If you can, great!
You're developing the eye of
a colorist!
The cool hue makes this
color suitable for (you
guessed it), cool skin tones.
A clear color gloss, applied
every few months, will
maintain the shine that is so
important with such a deeply
saturated color.
If you're coloring your hair to a brown shade that is darker than your natural color,
consider having your eyebrows tinted.
TIPS FOR BRUNETTES
1. Avoid orange or brassy tones when lifting brown hair with permanent color, by
using a cool blue base.
2. Avoid brassy tones by not lightening more than two levels above the natural
color.
3. Add 1 oz. of a natural color to cover gray in brunette.
4. Natural highlights in brunette should be deep or caramel colored.
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Understanding Red Hair Color
Getting The Right Red and Keeping it Fresh
Shades of red hair color vary from light strawberry to fiery copper to rich
auburn.
Once your hair is colored, keeping the red in your hair becomes the
challenge. Red hair color contains the smallest of hair color molecules.
Small molecules enter the hair shaft easily, so your hair soaks up the color.
They also escape from the hair shaft easily, which means you wash many of
them down the drain each time you shampoo.
To prevent those sneaky red hair color molecules from leaching out, use a
pigmented shampoo and conditioner. These products deposit color molecules
back onto your hair every time you use them.
Red Hair Color Pictures
Light strawberry blonde
(level 9)
This color has bleached
blonde foil highlights,
which lighten the overall
color.
Best neutral, fair skin
tones. If your hair is
already quite light, this is
a good option. Really dark
hair will require A LOT of
maintenance to deal with
the regrowth.
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Bright copper red
(level 8)
This is a great, rich
copper/strawberry. It's a
very bright color, so beware!
Many women feel sure they
want a bright shade like
this... until they're looking at
it on their own hair.
Dark copper red
(level 7)
Same advice as above with
this color. It's very bright.
Not for the faint of heart.
Reds like this are difficult to
tone down once the
molecules are in your hair. It
can be done, but it'll end up
being a darker color than
you probably wanted.
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Neutral copper red
(level 7)
This shade is more
reminiscent of a "natural
redhead." Could be described
as a ginger spice color.
It's very rich and not overly
bright... a good choice if you
want a more subdued red
hair color.
Light auburn red
(level 6)
The tone of this auburn hair
color is deeper than the
coppers above. Very rich
without being too dark.
A great color for fair skinned
women who find the coppers
too bright.
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Auburn red
(level 5)
Also a rich auburn, just
slightly darker than the one
above.
These reds have enough
brown pigment to keep them
from being overly bright.
Dark auburn red
(level 4)
A very rich, deep auburn red
hair color. This is a beautiful
shade. It's just one level
darker than the photo above.
The differences in color
levels are subtle.
If you spend a lot of time in
the sun, it's wise to opt for a
shade darker than you want
to compensate for the
inevitable fading.
If you're coloring your hair red, consider having your eyebrows tinted. Many
women have ash toned eyebrows, which contrast with the warm, spicy red
tones.
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TIPS FOR REDS
1. Create warm coppery reds by using a red-orange base color.
2. Create hot fiery reds by using a red-violet or true red color.
3. After permanent color, use a no-lift deposit-only color to refresh.
4. If gray is present, add ½ to 1 oz. of a natural color.
5. Refresh reds with a soap cap to brighten haircolor. A soap cap is equal parts of
shampoo and the remaining color formula.
SECTION 3: HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT
New Hair Color Trends
Add Character to Your Latest Hair Style
A new hair color can have a dramatic effect on an otherwise plain hair style.
If you're not after drama, use hair color to compliment your skin tone and
highlight your features.
Highlighted Effects
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The once popular chunky highlights which gave a stripy effect from the part
have been updated to a more modest blend of 3 or 4 tones of hair color
ranging from light to dark and applied in various sizes.
Foiling is the best method to achieve this look. Highlighting and lowlighting
using foils allows for total creative freedom and gives the best results as
each section is kept separate from the others. This also means that all of the
different colors can be applied and process at the same time.
Rich dark colors are ultra-hot, sprinkled with a few equally rich highlights
peeking out from underneath.
Deep tones of eggplant, burgundy, or bright red are a great compliment to a
dark brown or black hair color.
Dramatic Hair Color Effects
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Strategically placed highlights, lowlights, or panels can accentuate texture
and add tons of impact to your hair style. This bold effect is very edgy and
can be done in many color combinations.
Platinum blonde and dark brown are shown here, but this look is equally
dramatic with black/red or light copper/dark auburn, even purple/blue! Go
with tones that compliment your natural coloring and express your personal
style.
Solid or Subtle Color Effects
Solid, one-tone hair color is very popular again or two tones that offer just a
subtle hint of color progression (as in the case of the blonde pictured
above).
Deep red or brown hair colors add richness and make hair look healthy and
shiny. Dimensional blonde hair colors create interest and break up a solid
ultra-blonde color which adds a professional, high class touch.
Color Back
From Light to Dark Hair
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A color back is the process of taking an artificial blonde back to a darker
shade.
There are a few essential steps for getting an even, natural looking color
that will last.
This section will take you through the process so you can avoid any mishaps.
A blue/grey/green cast is a common outcome with a color back process.
The blonde hair is over-porous and will absorb the blue pigments in the color
formula more so than the red and yellow. So adding some of those warm
pigments back to the hair is important.
Solutions For a Successful Color Back
The two things you need to do a color back process the professional way...
1) POROSITY EQUALIZER
Use a porosity equalizer before coloring.
These products penetrate into the hair strand, filling up the most porous
areas with conditioning agents. The result is a more uniform color because
the hair strand absorbs the pigments more evenly.
2) FILLER
Fill the lightened hair with a warm pigment (i.e., orange/yellow), before
coloring.
When the hair was lightened, it was stripped of its natural underlying
pigment. Those pigments are necessary to balance out the color in a darker
shade.
So we replace them with artificial pigments before doing the actual color
process. This will help neutralize the blue pigments absorbed by the color
when it is applied, and even everything out.
WHAT TO USE
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Non-permanent (no ammonia) colors or stains are best to use as fillers. So
look for an orange toned semi-permanent or demi-permanent color. A
permanent color (even a copper orange) contains strong blue pigments
which the porous areas of your hair will be most likely to absorb. That's what
will give you muddy results.
Filler for medium to dark brown finished color
Either of these options would work. For extremely processed hair or if you
are going from blonde to very dark, go for the Auburn. If your hair is in fairly
good condition and/or if the finished color you're trying to achieve is
medium-dark, use the Golden shade...
Allow the color filler to process for up to 20 minutes. Leave it on for less
time (say, 10 minutes) if the finished color result you want to achieve is
more neutral or ash. Leave it on for closer to 20 minutes if the finished
result you want to achieve is warm (i.e., golden, auburn, red).
A warm, light strawberry shade has just the right pigments to provide a light
fill. When the finished color you're after is a lighter shade of brown or dark
blonde, you need to be careful about using too dark of filler.
This color can be allowed to process for the full recommended time. The
warm pigments are subtle, but necessary before you add a neutral shade.
The color you end up with after having it filled is NOT attractive. In fact, it
can be downright garish! Especially if you're using a filler for dark hair.
Don't worry, it's supposed to be vibrant. Remember, we're trying to mimic
the color of your underlying pigment. Rinse the filler well and apply the
finishing color immediately.
FINISHING COLOR
Either permanent or semi-permanent will work for the finished color.
Permanent is better if you've gone a bit overboard with the filler and need a
formula with a bit more oomph to neutralize out more of the orange.
Otherwise, go with semi(or demi)-permanent.
Semi-permanent is deposit only, which is exactly what you need to get your
hair darker. There's no need for the ammonia and peroxide contained in
permanent colors when all you want to do is deposit a darker color.
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So semi-permanent is always my personal choice for that purpose. Semipermanent pigment is also more likely to fade, and you may find that to be a
good thing. Especially on extremely porous hair which can end up going
darker than expected. If it fades, simply re-apply as needed.
Highlighting Hair
Techniques for Coloring Hair With Foils
This section will detail the technical aspects of highlighting hair using foils
(or another material).
Begin with clean dry hair, parted and styled the way you wear it most often.
Make sure you're set-up with everything you'll need beforehand.
Now, observe your hair...how it moves, where it falls, and which areas you'd
like to highlight.
Formulate a plan before you start. Once you've decided which methods
you'll employ, here are the technical details.
Highlighting Hair with Foils

Clip away the hair in a way that'll reveal the piece you've chosen to foil. With your
tail comb, weave or slice out a section and hold in one hand.

Keep your comb in the other hand and grab a piece of foil. Bring the foil to the
other hand and lightly hold it (and your section of hair).

Slide the tail of the comb up under the foil, near the top, and fold about an inch
(2.5cm) of it over the tail of the comb.

Now that your foil is secured over the comb, slide the tail of the comb right up
under the section of hair. Make sure it's taut, then lay a hand over the whole
thing to hold the hair in place while you load up your brush with the other hand.

Keep a good grasp on the section until you've applied the color to either just the
re-growth of the entire strand (depending).

If you're coloring the re-growth only... Just dab the color onto the hair you're
coloring, then fold the foil up in thirds. If the hair not being foiled is going to be
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colored, make sure the ends of your highlighted pieces are protected inside the
foil. But not touching the color or you'll get a nasty band across the hair.

If you're coloring the entire strand... Be sure to work the color in adequately. I
generally flip the hair over a bit on the foil and apply color to the underside as
well. Fold up the foil in thirds, but be sure not to make a strong crease, which
will squish the hair inside. That'll create a slight, but still unsightly, banding
effect.

In every case... To prevent leakage at the root, flip the foil up and, with the tail of
your comb, unfold the one inch flap you created when you started the foil. Press
it down to the scalp with the tail of your comb, and call that foil...DONE!
Just a few foils in the top, or underneath can give a nice highlighted effect. In some
cases, 1, 2, or 3 panels are all you'll use foil for. I usually stick with about 15-20 on my
fine hair, and they go a long way.
Foiling Hair
Hair Coloring Techniques
Foiling hair is a hair coloring technique used to separate sections, preventing
different color formulas from mixing together. Using foils is an incredibly
versatile method, allowing for unlimited creativity!
Because the sections of hair are kept separate, several colors can be applied
in one process. And the freedom to choose the size of each highlighted
strand makes it possible to create a very high-end looking, multi-tonal hair
color.
The right tools and equipment are critical for success with any hair coloring process.
Materials for Foiling Hair
Any one of the following will work. The point is to separate the sections of
hair that are being colored from the sections that aren't...
 Household tin foil torn into 5 inch wide strips
 Saran wrap is annoying, but works in a pinch for extremely long hair
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 Spongy sheets
 Crystal Film Hair Coloring Sheets
 Spilo Pre-Cut Professional Foil
 Spilo Professional Foil Roll
Tools for Success
 Tail comb for slicing and weaving sections
 Duckbill clamps to separate sections (see link
below)
 Bowls/Brushes
 Plastic or latex gloves
 Plastic bags
Methods of Foiling Hair
Slicing - dissect a tiny sliver of hair, horizontal, vertical, or diagonal depending on the
look you want to achieve. Take into account how the piece will lay when it's hanging in
its natural position.
Weaving - part off a small section and weave the tail of your comb along the surface,
creating either thick or thin strands...better yet, mix it up with some small, medium, and
large pieces for variety and a more natural look.
Paneling - or color blocking, will showcase a great style and offer variety from day to
day...if it's done right. This is a very dynamic technique where large sections of hair are
colored in contrasting or complimentary tones. The panels are generally underneath or
at either side of the part so the paneled sections can be either played up or hidden
entirely, depending on where the hair is parted. Positioning is critical with this technique,
as is choosing the right color combinations.
Feel free to mix it up a bit, toss in a few weaved sections with some slices, and perhaps
a panel or two for added dramatic flair.
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However, have a plan for how and where you're placing the highlights or lowlights before even
mixing the color. Don't just "wing it", or you'll likely end up with a hair color that was obviously
done on a whim.
Hair Coloring How-To
Tutorial
Highlight and Lowlight Process
This section features hair coloring pictures of a foiling process for your reference.The
process demonstrated in this section was done with foils from the temples up, and solid
dark brown hair color from the temples down. The foils were used to highlight the hair
blonde while adding color back with permanent brown hair color in the alternating foils.
Overview
This hair color was done at the end of summer. The client's hair is very-porous and
over-highlighted to the point where it's become an all-over blonde with little color
dimension.
The tone, as is common with blonde hair color, is slightly brassy and her regrowth is an
ash tone. She wanted a multi-tonal color, highlighted and lowlighted on top, and a solid
very dark brown underneath.
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Step 1
Multiple sections were weaved and foiled above the temples. Blonde and medium
brown colors were alternated to add dimension and bring back some depth to the color.
All foils were then clipped up out of the way, and the dark brown color was applied from
the temples/occipital bone down. It's important to ensure that those blonde pieces don't
dangle down into any of the dark color that is applied in the bottom section. Use duckbill
clips (or even small metal clips) to position those strands in a safe spot.
Step 2
This photo shows a good view of the solid dark brown color applied to all underneath
sections. The hair must be parted in about half inch sections and color applied right
from the root through to the ends. This is especially important when covering over
blonde, porous hair. If you miss a spot, it'll be obvious in the finished hair color...and not
in a good way.
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Step 3
Once the colors have processed to the appropriate stage, the foils are removed and the
hair color and bleach are rinsed well. A semi-permanent ash based color is applied as a
toner, only to the roots, as the ends being over-porous will absorb the purple/grey tone
from the toner. The objective of the toner is to match the newly bleached pieces to the
blonde that is left on the ends. Adding the medium brown foils throughout the top
sections brings some dimension back to the over-blonde ends.
Step 4
The hair was then shaped into a nice layered style, which updates the look and
showcases the color. Unfortunately, because of the black T-shirt, it's difficult to see the
dark sections underneath, but they're there. And they add a lot of dimension and
personality to this hair color. As these hair coloring pictures show, this highlight/lowlight
process gives the client a much more mature and refined look. Because of the dark
sections, this hair color should last for up to 3 months as the re-growth will be nicely
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disguised because there isn't such a contrast between the all-over blonde and the ashy
re-growth.
SECTION 4: HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT
Bleaching Hair
Tips for Lightening Hair with Bleach
This section offers advice on bleaching hair. You'll find information on mixing,
application, and processing times when using bleach.
Using bleach for lightening hair is more risky than most hair coloring processes. But with
that risk comes a great reward.
Bleaching hair effectively strips what appears to be our "natural" hair color, exposing the
underlying pigment lurking beneath the surface.
Depending on how dark your hair is naturally, your underlying pigment could range from
rusty orange to pale yellow.
Removing those pigments allows for a true neutral, ash or platinum blonde. If you want
to lighten hair more than 3 or 4 shades, eliminate brassy blondes, or achieve a very
bright punk hair color, bleach is the most effective product.
Hair Bleaching Processes
Here are examples of and instructions for the most common
uses for bleach. Read the rest of this page for product advice
and directions for mixing and storing your product.
Mixing and Storing Hair Bleach
Bleach comes in powder form and hydrogen peroxide is added
to activate the lightening process. If you get a
bleach/highlighting kit from the drugstore, the developer that
comes with it will likely be 20 Volume peroxide.
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Add the peroxide to the powder bleach a little at a time, stirring and squishing the lumps
out. Your kit may have instructions for measurements. If in doubt, mix the bleach to a
thick gravy consistency. Not so thin that it runs off the brush when you hold it above the
bowl.
If it's too runny, add more powder. If bleach is mixed to a thick consistency it tends to
dry out faster and not be as effective.
Close your bleach powder up tight for storage. Air causes the powder to oxidate and
lose its effectiveness. Double protection inside a plastic bag, then inside a plastic tub is
a good idea to keep it fresh and ready for action.
Hair Bleach
Cautions and Considerations
Get advice on using hair bleach safely and effectively.
If you're doing an all over blonde hair color, you'll have to apply hair bleach to the scalp,
which can cause blistering and chemical burns. That's an extreme possibility, but could
happen if you're not careful.
For on-scalp lightening processes, never mix bleach with peroxide stronger than 20
Volume.
And keep in mind -- bleach just keeps on doing its thing until it either dries up or gets
washed off.
Pay attention to what's happening on your scalp. A normal hair
bleaching process will cause a slightly uncomfortable tingle on
the scalp, if the tingle progresses into a burning sensation,
rinse the bleach off with cool water.
Bleach will lift existing hair color, especially dark colors more
slowly than natural pigment.
Some inexpensive (drugstore brand) hair colors contain
metallic salts which can turn your hair to mush if they're
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processed with bleach, perm solutions, or chemical straighteners. Check the ingredients
if you've used a drugstore brand hair color to make sure it doesn't contain any metallic
dye components.
If you aren't sure whether the existing color on your hair contains these dyes, snip a tiny
section of hair from underneath and process it in a little of the bleach solution first. If you
can pull it apart with your fingers after 10 or 20 minutes in the bleach solution, you'll
know there's a problem. Darker colors contain more of this ingredient (in those particular
brands), and the more you've used it, the more metallic salts will have been deposited
on/in your hair.
Using hair bleach is not a process to undergo if you value the health of your hair. It may
come out feeling like straw and will be in dire need of protein/moisture treatments.
If you're coloring the regrowth of pre-lightened hair, be sure not to overlap the bleach
when applying it. If you get bleach on hair that's already been lightened, it could cause a
chemical haircut. Never a good look!
Working in small sections will help you control the hair and ensure that the bleach gets
only where you want it. Avoid squishing the hair down on top of previously bleached
sections to prevent product transfer. If any bleach gets where you don't want it...even
the smallest drip, blot it up with a towel and blast that piece of hair (or skin, clothing,
furniture, etc...) with water immediately to stop the bleaching action.
One last word on using hair bleach safely...Wear gloves! Unless you like an unbearable
biting sensation as chemicals eat away at your skin.
Tips for Creating Great Blonde Hair Color
This section offers advice on hair bleaching safely and effectively to get a true blonde
hair color.
This process requires a lot of maintenance as the regrowth begins to show within only a
few weeks.
If you want a blonde color with a bit less coloring frequency, try foiling hair to add blonde
highlights.
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Hair Bleaching TipsStick with no higher than 20 Volume peroxide for on-scalp
bleaching. If you are foiling hair, you can use up to 40 volume peroxide with your
bleach powder, but not when it's coming in direct contact with your skin. For very dark
hair, bleach may need to be applied in two separate sittings, with a fresh batch each
time.
To get a consistent color, you need to start with an even slate...meaning root to end the
hair strand should be near the same color level before you apply the hair color or toner.
In some cases, a high lift blonde hair color will do the trick, but not if there's already
color on the hair...too unpredictable. And some high-lift colors can leave your hair with a
brassy hue, making it difficult to achieve a platinum blonde shade. If that's the case, hair
bleaching and toning is necessary.
Hair Bleaching Application Tips
Methods for applying bleach to hair vary widely depending on the existing state of the
hair and the desired result. A few rules of thumb that apply in every case are...

Don't overlap bleach on previously colored hair. It'll either cause a banding effect or,
worst case scenario a "chemical haircut".

Apply to the darkest areas first so they process the longest.

Clean up any spills promptly, whether on hair, clothing or furniture.

Have all supplies on hand and ready before you begin.

Work quickly...but carefully!)
Start applying bleach in the back of the head where hair is usually darkest, working you
way up to the front in half inch sections. Apply bleach quickly and thoroughly...oh, and
carefully too!
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If it takes you too long to get through all the hair, let the bleach process until the lightest
section is at the right stage, rinse, then re-apply starting from the other side (in the
darkest area) and cover only the hair that needs more lightening.
Bleach loses its effectiveness if it dries out, so cover the hair with a plastic cap, and if
it's a particularly difficult head of hair to lighten...apply some heat. If you use a blowdryer to apply heat, add a diffuser attachment to spread that warm air around evenly or
you could end up with "hot spots". Yes, hair bleaching is finicky, but well worth the effort
when done correctly!
Processing
All bleach processing times differ depending on your desired end result. Successful
bleach lightening is a visual thing, watching for the underlying pigment to be lifted high
enough that your finished color can be achieved.
If you're going for a very light blonde color, the underlying pigment must be raised up to
a pale-yellow stage. However, if you're pre-lightening very dark hair to create warm
golden highlights, the yellow-orange stage would be the time to rinse off the bleach and
tone the hair. If you're bleaching hair, you must have a good grasp of the chemistry
going' on behind the scenes.
Coloring Grey Hair
Techniques and Hair Color Advice
The process of coloring grey hair can be challenging. And as the ratio of grey/natural
hair shifts to a majority of grey hair, the challenge increases... or so it seems. In reality,
there are just new factors to consider when choosing and applying your hair color. This
section details the critical elements, as well as a few "insider tips" for success.
Grey Hair Considerations
Loss of Pigment
As we mature, pigment diminishes from both our hair and skin. This affects hair coloring
in two ways. First, because there is little or no pigment remaining in the hair, the color
you choose must contain some degree of gold (or warm) pigment. Not so much that the
color is brassy, but definitely avoid ash tones.
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Because the skin also loses pigment, choose a hair color that is lighter than your
previous natural color. A very dark shade on paler skin can appear harsh. Darker
shades also show re-growth sooner and the contrast between hair and scalp can make
hair appear thinner.
Tenacity/Change of Hair Texture
You've likely noticed that grey hair is of a coarser texture than your original strands. And
the tenacious quality not only affects the way your hair behaves (or doesn't), but also
the way it takes color.
The outside (cuticle) layer of rebellious greys is tightly sealed and not at all receptive to
the invasion of artificial pigments. If when coloring grey hair, you find it particularly
stubborn, treat it before coloring with straight 20 volume peroxide for 5-10 minutes. This
will open the cuticle layer and prep it to receive pigment. Rinse the peroxide and
proceed with your mission.
Choosing A Hair Color
Naturally pigmented hair already contains some degree of each primary color, and
those variables must be considered for good results. Coloring grey hair, on the other
hand, is like adding pigment to a blank slate.
Think of adding a pure, bright red pigment to a white sheet of paper. What do you get?
Yup. That's right... pink. Or, perhaps violet, indigo or a vibrant plum? Safe to say that
most clients who are covering their grey are not in pursuit of such a hue.
Neutral tones make a great base to provide coverage, then add a red or gold tone with
that to achieve a natural looking hair color with depth and dimension.
Application
Divide the hair in quarters by creating a center parting all the way down to the nape and
another across from ear to ear. Apply the color in the area with the greyest first. Work in
small (half inch) sections. Go over the entire front hairline with any remaining color after
you've applied it everywhere else.
Processing
When coloring grey hair, I generally exceed the recommended processing time. You
can't go wrong by leaving it on a touch longer.
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It's critical that you use a permanent color for adequate coverage when coloring grey
hair. Semi-permanent haircolor, or even permanent color with any less than 20 volume
peroxide will merely blend grey. This is fine if that’s all you want to achieve.
Extra tenacious hair can be bagged up and hit with a blow-dryer and diffuser to add
heat to the process. At the very least, avoid processing in a cool or drafty room when
coloring grey hair.
Maintenance
Use a shampoo and conditioner formulated for color treated hair. To retain the richness
and depth when coloring grey hair, use a pigmented conditioner between processes.
Natural Grey Hair Colorants
Many women are anxious to cover or conceal gray hair. Hair dyes contain many toxic
chemicals and other harmful ingredients, so they are searching for a natural way to
cover gray hair. This recipe is for a natural to gradually conceal graying hair. This
homeopathic natural rinse will brighten and color grey hair naturally.
Rosemary’s Sage Hair Colorant
You will need the following supplies to prepare the colorant:

One fourth cup each of rubbed sage and rosemary leaves (organic if possible)

One cup distilled or well water
This is a very economical homemade recipe if you are a savvy shopper. Purchase the necessary
herbs in bulk to save money, as buying little bottles or tins at the grocery store is not cost
effective. A reliable online source for bulk herbs is www.hardawaysherbgarden.com. One pound
of organic rubbed sage costs $10.50, while one pound of organic rosemary leaves is $6.50. These
herbs will last between 3 to 6 months if using the rinse one to three times weekly.
How to Make:
Put the cup of water into a medium saucepan over medium heat. Bring water to a gentle, rolling
boil. Add the herbs, cover the pan, and remove from heat. Let the herb mixture steep for at least
30 minutes.
Place a coffee filter into a colander, and the colander inside a large bowl. Pour the rosemary-sage
tincture slowly into the coffee filter. Some herbs may fall into the filter; do not worry if they do.
Set the pan aside and take a large spoon. Press gently on top of any solids to extract liquids.
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Discard filter and any solids. Pour herb solution into a clean, sterilized glass jar and allow liquid
to cool. Wash hair as usual, and then rinse with lukewarm water until water runs clear. Wrap hair
in towel, and place a large bowl into sink to catch any overflow when applying the rosemary's
sage natural hair colorant.
How to Apply
Position head over bowl; pour a small amount of the rosemary-sage liquid over hair. Massage
rinse in thoroughly. Repeat, letting any excess run into bowl. Rinse washed hair with rosemarysage herb mixture approximately 5 - 10 times. Wrap hair in towel, pour any remaining rinse into
glass bottle, and store in the refrigerator for another use.
In between shampoos, put a small amount of this "hair tea" on a cotton ball and dab onto any
visible gray areas. Most people see a noticeable difference in hair color after only one month.
The herbal mixture helps soften and minimize the gray color. Gradually gray color fades and hair
returns to its natural color.
Summary:
This is not an overnight solution or a quick fix like commercial hair dyes. It is a tried and tested
formula that works. Most people prepare the rinse in advance, and store it in a cool place. It can
be warmed quickly by immersing the bottle in a pan of warm water. Discard any unused solution
after 7 days.
How Hair Coloring Works
What Exactly Is Hair?
Typical mammalian hair consists of the shaft, protruding above the skin, and the root, which is
sunk in a follicle, or pit, beneath the skin surface. Except for a few growing cells at the base of
the root, the hair is dead tissue and is composed of keratin and related proteins. The hair follicle
is a tube like pocket of the epidermis that encloses a small section of the dermis at its base.
Human hair is formed by rapid divisions of cells at the base of the follicle. As the cells are
pushed upward from the follicle's base, they harden and undergo pigmentation.
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The hair on our scalps and in our eyebrows and eyelashes are different from other bodily hairs.
The hair on our heads grows a healthy .5 inch per month, and long scalp hairs have an average
life of 3 to 5 years. Most of us have between 100,000 and 150,000 hairs on our heads!
There are two kinds of melanin found in the hair: eumelanin (the most common and responsible
for hair shades from brown to black) and phaeomelanin (responsible for yellowish-blond, ginger
and red colors). Absence of pigment produces white/gray hair. Before any permanent color can
be deposited into the hair shaft, the cuticle, or outer layer, must be opened. The insoluble
formula then reacts with the cortex to deposit or remove the color.
What Are the Ingredients in Hair Color?
Until the early 1900s, hair coloring was made from a wide range of herbal and natural dyes.
Flying in the face of other chemists who found the development of hair coloring trivial and
unworthy of their time, French chemist Eugene Schuller created the first safe commercial hair
coloring in 1909. His invention was based on a new chemical, paraphenylenediamine, and
provided the foundation of his company, the French Harmless Hair Dye Company. A year later,
the name was changed to one that is more familiar today -- L'Oreal. L'Oreal, one of the hair
product giants, has grown steadily over the years; the company credits advanced and applied
research of new product development and expansion into markets around the world with its
global success.
The two main chemical ingredients involved in any coloring process that lasts longer than 12
shampoos are:

Hydrogen peroxide (also known as the developer or oxidizing agent) -- This ingredient, in varying
forms and strengths, helps initiate the color-forming process and creates longer-lasting color.
The larger the volume of the developer, the greater the amount of sulfur is removed from the
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hair. Loss of sulfur causes hair to harden and lose weight. This is why, for the majority of hair
coloring, the developer is maintained at 30% volume or less.

Ammonia -- This alkaline allows for lightening by acting as a catalyst when the permanent hair
color comes together with the peroxide. Like all alkalines, ammonia tends to separate the cuticle
and allow the hair color to penetrate the cortex of the hair.
In addition, various types of alcohols, which can also dry the hair, are present in most hair color.
(Check out this official ingredient list for a hair color formula.) How Do Hair Coloring Products
Work?
The good news is that most hair color products today have nicer smells than the tell-tale rottenegg odor that once accompanied permanents or hair coloring. And most color can be applied
easily: some to wet hair, others to dry hair, worked into a shampoo-like lather, left to process
(some formulas call for covering with a plastic cap during processing; others do not) and then
rinsed and conditioned.
The down side is still that chemicals in hair coloring can be harsh and harmful to your hair if you
don't know what you're doing or if you color or perm too often. How peroxide and ammonia
react with your hair is directly related to the level and kind of product you're using. Here are
basic descriptions of the three major hair coloring product levels used by Clairol, L'oreal and
others:

Level 1, semi-permanent color -- This product adds color without changing natural color
dramatically. The hair color contains tiny color molecules that enter the hair's cuticle, or outer
layer, and go into your hair's cortex. They don't interact with your natural pigments. And since
the molecules are small, they eventually exit the hair shaft after several shampoos, leaving the
hair as it was before treatment. This level generally lasts for 6 to 12 shampoos, covers up to 50
percent gray, enhances your natural color and leaves no roots. Semi-permanent hair dye has
smaller molecules than temporary dyes, and is therefore able to partially penetrate the hair
shaft. For this reason, the color will survive repeated washing, typically 4-5 shampoos. Semipermanents contain no developer, peroxide or ammonia, and are therefore safer for damaged
or fragile hair. However, semi-permanents may still contain the toxic compound PPhenylenediamine or other such ingredients.
The final color of each strand of hair will depend on its original color and porosity, so there will
be subtle variations in shade across the whole head. This gives a more natural result than the
solid, allover color of a permanent dye. However, it also means that gray or white hairs will not
dye to the same shade as the rest of the hair. If there are only a few gray/white hairs, the effect
will usually be enough for them to blend in, but as the gray spreads, there will come a point
where it cannot be disguised.
In this case, the move to permanent color can sometimes be delayed by using the semipermanent as a base and adding highlights. This hair coloring won't lighten your hair color
because it contains no ammonia or peroxide.
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

Level 2, demi-permanent color -- This product level lasts longer, through 24 to 26 shampoos. In
this process, pre-color molecules penetrate the cuticle and enter the cortex where they then
partner to create medium-sized color molecules. Their larger size means they take longer to
wash out. These products do not contain ammonia so the natural pigment can't be lightened.
However, it contains a small amount of peroxide, which allows for a subtle, but noticeable, color
enhancement. It also blends and covers gray. (Both semi- and demi-permanent colors can
become permanent on permed or already-colored hair!)
Level 3, permanent color -- This is what you need for a more significant color change (to go from
black to blond, you'll still need to go with a process called double process blonding and it'd be
wise to get this it done professionally). In this level, both ammonia and peroxide are used. Tiny
molecules enter all the way into the cortex, where they react and expand to a size that cannot
be washed out. Your hair actually has to grow out over time. This product acts to lighten the
hair's natural pigment to form a new base and then to add a new permanent color. The end
result is a combination of your natural hair pigment and the new shade you chose. That means
the color may appear different on you than on someone else using the same color. (That's why
the "strand test" is so important -- more about that later.) Regular touch-ups of 4 to 6 weeks are
generally needed to eliminate roots -- hair with your natural color growing at half an inch per
month from your scalp.
There are also hair coloring products known as "special effect" hair colors. These are the kits you
buy to add highlights or streaks to your hair. They are available in varying strengths. Some are
for adding highlights to natural, uncolored hair while others are made for adding highlights to
already-colored hair. Double process hair color, or bleaching and toning to achieve drastic color
changes, falls into this category. Most professionals recommend you don't try this one at home
unless you're really adventurous and love to experiment! Newer products on the market include
color-enhancing shampoos and mousses and shampoos that keep your color vivid longer.
Now that we've reviewed the different product levels used in hair coloring, let's look at what
actually happens to your hair. For example, if you're blonde and are going darker -- to brown -permanent hair color uses the interaction between the ammonia and the peroxide to create a new
color base in your hair shafts. If you go in the opposite direction -- from black or brown to
blonde -- the hair goes through an additional step. First, bleach is used to strip the color from the
hair. Then the ammonia-peroxide reaction creates the new color and deposits it in the hair shaft.
If you use a semi-permanent color, the hair is coated with color, rather than deposited into the
hair shaft.
How Do I Choose the Right Hair Color -- and the Right Product -- for Me?Choosing a new hair
color isn't as simple as finding a color you like on a box in the drugstore. You need to make this
choice based on an analysis of your natural hair color, eye color and skin tone. First, let's review
the basic "laws" of color. Color, as we see it, is actually the reflection of light off of the colored
pigments in the hair shaft. It's sort of like the color prisms you saw in elementary school: it
fractured light into distinctive colors you could see. This is what happens with hair color except
that you're adding or subtracting colors to change from one color to another or to change the
undertones.
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A shade of color is made up of different combinations of reflections off the pigments. That's
why hair color -- both natural and dyed -- looks different under fluorescent lights and in natural
sunlight. Color levels are the degrees of lightness or darkness of a color seen by the eye. Hair
color is assigned a level number from 1 to 10, with 10 being the lightest and 1 being black. Black
reflects very little light and the lightest shades of blonde reflect the greatest amount of light. A
colorist would say that a level 10 blonde is two steps lighter than a level 8 blonde.
Look at a color wheel or chart: Suppose you want to lighten your hair color. When hair is
lightened, it produces warm, or yellow-red, undertones. Remember from school that mixing
yellow and red produces orange -- not generally the desired hair color! Refer to the wheel to
cancel out some of the orange tone but leave enough to keep the warm tones. The best hair colors
for you if you have warm skin undertones (ivory, peachy, golden brown, creamy beige, cafe au
lait, tawny, coppery, deep golden brown) and blue, blue-green hazel, green, topaz, amber or
coffeebean colored eyes, are golden with red highlights, golden brown, honey brown, chestnut,
copper and mahogany. Cool tones are blue-red. If your skin has rosy pink, rosy beige, dark olive,
dark brown or ebony tones and your eyes are light blue, gray-blue, deep blue, deep green, brown
or black, your best hair color options are plum and burgundy highlights, ash and platinum
blonde, brown, dark brown, black, slate, salt and pepper and pure white.
Experts say you also can't miss if you return your hair to its color when you were 12 years old!
(To have some fun, try MakeoverStudio.com, which gives you some idea of how you'd look as a
redhead -- or a blonde!) Your choice of hair coloring product depends on what you're trying to
accomplish and how long you want your color to last. Most women start with a lower
commitment level and move up to a higher level over time.
If you're seeing grayer or your hair coloring isn't covering gray as well as it did, you might need
to move to a higher-level product. Level 3 is the only kind of product that can completely and
permanently cover any amount of gray.
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The all-important strand test (always explained in home coloring packages) will ensure that
you've chosen the right color -- and product -- and will give you a chance to change your mind. It
works like this:




Mix one teaspoon of color and one teaspoon of developer (peroxide) in a glass bowl.
Apply the mixture to the roots or ends to determine the outcome. You can protect the test
strand from the other hair by wrapping a piece of tin foil around the strand and securing it with
a clip.
Time the process according to package directions, then rinse and dry the strand.
Look at it in different types of light to see if you like it.
What Can I Do About Gray Hair?
No, it's not your imagination. Some gray hairs -- especially coarse hairs, prematurely gray hairs
and gray hairs around the temples and hairlines -- are especially resistant to color or quicker to
lose color than other gray hairs. Try the following suggestions:



Apply color to gray areas first. (This gives resistant gray hairs more time to absorb color.)
Leave color on longer. (Adjust your timing and try it first in the strand test. Grays could take up
to 45 minutes to color.)
Increase your hair color level. (If your grays still show up even after you've adjusted the timing
on your semi- or demi-permanent color, you might consider going up a level.)
Science is also searching for a better solution to gray hair. Cancer researchers learned that
liposomes, substances that deliver a drug into the body, can be used to deposit melanin, the
pigment that gives hair its color, inside follicles and color hair from the roots up. If further
research proves successful, products could be available in the next 10 years, they predict. On
another front, after 30 years of research, L'oreal laboratories have developed a precursor
molecule for melanin, dihydroxyl-5.6-indole, which enables the natural process of hair
pigmentation to take place biologically through a slow oxydization process. With the right
proportions, everyone could get back their own natural hair color! Researchers are using this new
chemical to come up with a new way to enhance hair color or cover gray.
Up to 30% white hair, dyed with regular Natural henna. When dyed with our range of Natural
colours will get following results. Please see below the chart, which will help you selecting your
hair desired colour:
Effect of Lustrous Henna
Red
The hair will color
in the same way it
Brown
This will give
brown ton over all.
Burgundy
This will turn your
white hair in soft
Light Brown
This will turn your
white hair in light
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colors with Natural
Henna but at least
30% darker look
then henna with
nice reddish brown
reflection against
light.
Your white hair will
appear brown and
mix well with black
hair. Your black
hair will get nice
reddish brown
reflection against
light.
black kind of
colour. Your white
hair will merge
with black hair and
your will get
beautiful soft black
colour on your hair
with nice blackish
brown reflection
against light.
brown and will
give reflection of
brown colour
against light.
What Kind of Hair Color Do Men Use?
Everybody is familiar with progressive hair dyes for men -- products that build up to the desired
color upon repeated use. There has been some question about the use of lead acetate as the
developer in these products. (Some researchers worry about the danger of lead contamination to
users and their children through hair and hands.) Professional colorists say they never use
products containing leads because heads colored with these dyes can experience scalp burn when
a conventional hair dye is used later. They say a special product must be used to remove all lead
from the hair before traditional coloring.
On the other hand, manufacturers of Grecian Formula, GreyRemover and other progressive dyes
say their products are safe because they contain small amounts of lead acetate (about 0.6 percent)
-- amounts so small they can't be absorbed by the body if applied to a healthy scalp. The U.S.
Food and Drug Administration approves the use of lead acetate in these small concentrations. So,
educate yourself.
Read the box carefully and if you have a question, call the company and/or a professional
colorist. Or, you can do what many men are already doing: switch to women's hair color, which
contains no lead acetate and comes in a much wider selection of products. One of the newest
trends among (mostly young) men is tipping, in which just the tops of their short, spiky hair
strands are bleached or dyed (a la George Clooney and Ricky Martin) while the roots are left
long and uncolored. L'oreal's new Feria for Men offers colors ranging from "goth black" to the
most popular shade, "platinum blond." (Many colorists say they prefer working on guys because,
if the color isn't quite right, the guys will often just tell them to shave it all off! Not likely with
women!)
Hair professionals are reporting that older men are getting that gray "erased" more and more
often, citing the desire to remain viable in the ever-younger job market. Check out Clairol's
"Male Hair Care" hair color section for more information.
How Do I Take Care of My Newly Colored Hair?
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Color treated hair has special needs. Follow these tips to keep your hair looking great:







Use a shampoo created especially for color-treated hair (Revlon, L'oreal, Aveda and Clairol all
make them)
Wear hats or hair products with sunscreens to prevent your color from fading and drying in the
sun
Dampen your hair with bottled spring water before getting into a chlorine pool (it will help
dilute the chlorine)
Condition regularly
Don't brush hair when wet -- use a wide-toothed comb
Blot your hair dry -- don't wrap it or roughly dry it with a towel
Avoid overdrying -- blow dry until hair is almost, but not entirely, dry
SECTION 5: HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT
Types of hair color
The four most common classifications are 'temporary', 'semi-permanent', 'demipermanent' (sometimes called 'deposit only') and "permanent".
Temporary hair color
Temporary hair color is available as rinses, shampoos, gels, sprays, and foams among
others. This type of hair color is typically brighter and more vibrant than semi-permanent
and permanent hair color. Temporary color is most often used to color hair for special
occasions and is often used in unusual shades for events, parties, costumes, and
Halloween.
Temporary hair color is typically brighter and more vibrant than semi-permanent and
permanent hair color. It is most often used to color hair for special occasions such as
costume parties and Halloween.
The pigment molecules in temporary hair color are large and cannot penetrate the
cuticle layer. Instead, the color particles remain adsorbed (closely adherent) to the hair
shaft and are easily removed with a single shampooing. Temporary color means
exactly what the name says. On normal, healthy hair, temporary colors will not
penetrate the hair. They coat the hair; they are usually acidic in chemical composition
and are easily removed by shampooing. Temporary color has no lasting quality because
it disappears at the first shampooing and will not lighten natural hair color.
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Temporary colors (usually rinses) are "addition only' and usually last only from
shampoo to shampoo. Because temporary colors are nonpenetrating (on healthy hair),
they deposit color only to the outside of the hair shaft, They are water soluble and
therefore affected by weather conditions such as rain, humidity, snow, or even excess
perspiration.
Temporary colors will not dramatically change hair color but add highlights or deposit
different shades to enhance present colors. The obvious exceptions apply to extremely
porous hair, which may take numerous shampoos for color removal, and the color may
actually never completely fade from the hair. Temporary colors coat the hair temporarily,
do not damage the hair, and often add lustre and conditioning in add-on to the deposit
of desired colors.
However, even temporary hair color can persist if the user's hair is excessively dry or
damaged, allowing for migration of the pigments to the interior of the hair shaft.
Often the hair nearest the scalp (the most oily and healthy) will be resistant to any type
of coating. When applying a temporary color, keep that in mind.
Temporary color is often used to tone or neutralize unwanted yellow in white or gray
hair. It is also often used to tone over tightened hair. After a virgin bleach or extreme
corrective color, the scalp may be too sensitive for any type of oxidative toner or color, If
so, the hair could be temporarily toned with temporary color.
Semi-permanent hair color
Semi-permanent hair dye has smaller molecules than temporary dyes, and is therefore able to
partially penetrate the hair shaft. For this reason, the color will survive repeated washing,
typically 4-5 shampoos. Semi-permanents contain no, or very low levels of developer, peroxide
or ammonia, and are therefore safer for damaged or fragile hair. However, semi-permanents may
still contain the toxic compound P-Phenylenediamine or other such ingredients.
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The final color of each strand of hair will depend on its original color and porosity, so there will
be subtle variations in shade across the whole head. This gives a more natural result than the
solid, allover color of a permanent dye. However, it also means that gray or white hairs will not
dye to the same shade as the rest of the hair. If there are only a few gray/white hairs, the effect
will usually be enough for them to blend in, but as the gray spreads, there will come a point
where it will not be disguised as well.
In this case, the move to permanent color can sometimes be delayed by using the semipermanent as a base and adding highlights.Semi-permanent color cannot lighten the hair.
Demi-permanent hair color
Demi permanent hair color is permanent hair color that contains an alkaline agent other than
ammonia (e.g., ethanolamine, sodium carbonate) and, while always employed with a developer,
the concentration of hydrogen peroxide in that developer may be lower than used with a
permanent hair color. Since the alkaline agents employed in demi-perms are less effective in
removing the natural pigment of hair than ammonia, these product provide no lightening of hair's
color during dyeing. As the result, they cannot color hair to a lighter shade than it was before
dyeing and are less damaging to hair than their permanent counterpart.
Demi-permanents are much more effective at covering gray hair than semi-permanents, but less
so than permanents.
Demi-permanents have several advantages as compared with permanent color. Because there is
essentially no lifting (i.e., removal) of natural hair color, the final color is less
uniform/homogeneous than a permanent and therefore more natural looking; they are gentler on
hair and therefore safer, especially for damaged hair; and they wash out over time (typically 20
to 28 shampoos), so root regrowth is less noticeable and if a change of color is desired, it is
easier to achieve.
Demi-permanent hair colors are, in essence, permanent color and the darker shades in particular
may persist longer than indicated on the packet.
Permanent color
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Hair with blonde highlights
All "permanent" haircolor products and lighteners contain a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an
alkalizing agent (most often ammonia).When the tint containing the alkalizing ingredient is
combined with the developer cause a chemical reaction that swells the hair permitting the tint to
enter the cortex, where the melanin is located. The melanin is lightened and subsumed by the
new color.
The ammonia swells the cuticle of the hair to allow the color pigments to penetrate deep into the
hair shaft. Permanent color is truly permanent and will not wash out, although it may fade. New
hair regrowth will obviously be in the hair's natural color, meaning that regular monthly or sixweekly coloring will be essential for as long as the hair color is maintained.
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Permanent haircolor is the only way to dye dark hair into a lighter shade, and it must be done in
two parts: First, the hair is lightened, then color is applied.
Ways to get rid of permanent hair color include bleaching (if you don't mind damage or
yellow/orange hair), stripping with a color remover (which will return hair to its normal color if
hair has only been dyed with a permanent color once), or just cutting off the permanently dyed
hair.
Hair lighteners and bleaches
"Hair lightening," referred to as "bleaching" or "decolorizing," is a chemical process involving
the diffusion of the natural color pigment or artificial color from the hair plus the raising of the
cuticle making the hair more porous.
Different lightening products (bleaches) on the market are great for different effects. The
text in this course discusses the basic description for lighteners, and the three types
used by cosmetologists. If you are doing on-the-scalp lightening, the one recommended
is usually creme bleach because it doesn't dry quickly with the body heat. It also has
buffers, which allow for more boosters. Off-the-scalp (foils, weaves, frosts, etc.) usually
call for powdered bleaches. They lift more quickly, and their consistency facilitates
application. Creme oil bleach is available for on-the-scalp lifting but is considered
slower and milder. Whichever you decide to use, remember bleach is a strong chemical
and must be used with care and safe.
Double-process tinting is a service where the hair is first prelightened with a bleach
formula, then toned with a pastel or fashion shade.
A note of caution: Always wear gloves when performing lightening services.
To wear hair color extremely light (platinum) it must be lightened every 10 to 14 days.
The simplest and most effective way to get a very light, white look is to retouch often!
If your clients are hesitant about having their lightening services performed this often,
and who can blame them, keep in mind that past 1/4 inch away from the head, the
natural pigment will not lighten as quickly due to the lack of body heat. Apply to the shaft
first, then to the scalp area, which will lighten much more quickly.
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Recondition with protein after every bleach service, if not after every shampoo!
Advise clients about the at-home maintenance that is required with a great light
look.
Many clients will opt for the high lift look or a foiled, highlighted effect instead of the
constant maintenance of bleaching. Once a client is hooked, however you can take the
money to the bank, as long as you take care of the hair scalp, and the client!
Keep in mind the power of positive, professional vocabulary! "Bleaching" hair sounds
less professional, cheaper and dated. You are performing a lightening or highlighting
service!
In case you are already thinking that it's "too much trouble" to lighten on the scalp, many
world-class competitors and internationally renowned stylists love hair that has been
lightened with bleach and toned (referred to as double-process or two step coloring).
The reason for this preference for lightened or high lift colored hair is the pliability and
flexibility of the hair. The hair shaft is expanded due to the chemical reaction, creating
lots of "body" for easily molded hair.
Although it is possible to lighten hair from very black to very light, it is not usually done
for the following reasons:





More pigment in the darker hair substantially increases processing time and
potential damage to the hair and scalp.
Most people with dark hair do not lighten through I 0 stages because of the rapid
appearance of dark regrowth and subsequent maintenance.
In the hair industry this process is referred to as "high maintenance" hair.
Skin tone of people with extremely dark-colored hair usually looks better with
medium light, not extremely light hair.
The procedures for lightening do not vary much from school to school or manufacturer to manufacturer.
For retouches, apply the product to the shaft and ends only if necessary to
lighten more or if there is off-coloring on the strand. If it appears absolutely
necessary to remove off-color tones or brassy bands, dilute your lightening
formula with conditioning shampoo, and then follow your lightening service with
a deep reconditioning treatment. Repeated use of high ammonia products is
extremely hard on the hair and may easily cause severe damage or breakage!
Application techniques
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Hair color was traditionally applied to the hair as one overall color. The modern trend is to use
several colors to produce streaks or gradations, either on top of the natural color or on top of a
single base color. These are referred to as:


Highlighting, where sections of hair are treated with lighteners, usually to create blond streaks.
Lowlighting, where sections of hair are treated with darker hair color.
These can be applied by the following methods:
 Foils, where pieces of foil or plastic film are used to separate off the hair to be colored;
especially when applying more than one color.
 Cap, when a plastic cap is placed tight on the head and strands are pulled through with a hook.
 Balayage, where hair color is painted directly onto sections of the hair with no foils used to keep
the color contained.
All application techniques can be used with any type of color. For highlights, the hair will
usually have to be bleached before coloring.
Exotic hair colorants
Hair and beard colored blue.
A minority of hair coloring products are designed to create hair colors not typically found in
nature. These are available in almost any color imaginable, including green or fuchsia.These
dyes are typically sold in punk-themed stores (such as comic book and music stores), with brand
names like "Beyond The Zone", "Splat", "Clairol Jazzing", "Manic Panic", "Special Effects",
"Punky Colour".
A permanent alternative in some colors (such as bold infra-red and dark, inky purples and blues)
is available in the U.S. under "Paul Mitchell: Inkworks" and "Chi: InfaReds". Some exotic color
shades are backlight reactive, to show up under nightclub lighting.The chemical formulae of
exotic colored dyes typically contain only tint, and have no developer. This means that they will
only create the bright color of the packet if they are applied to light blond hair. People with
darker hair (medium brown to black) will need to use a bleaching kit prior to tint application.
Some people with fair hair may benefit from prior bleaching as well. Gold, yellow and orange
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undertones in hair that hasn't been lightened enough can adversely affect results, especially with
pinks, blues, and greens.
Most Profitable Service
Corrective colors are usually the most easily charged-for service for the following
reasons:

You usually need multiple steps to "fix" the color.

Conditioners are essential.

Fillers are almost always required.

Your expertise as a colorist is challenged and valuable.

Often these services are one-time only. Possibly more than one visit will be
required, but the client knows most of the initial expense was for correction.
Corrective coloring can be controlled and safe providing you follow certain rules and
actually "look for trouble." In other words, question the client regarding previous
treatments, and then ask yourself these questions:
1. Is the hair in good or bad condition?
2. Are the client's expectations realistic?
3. Is the hair "safe" to work on? Any metallic salts or compound dyes involved?
4. Have I thought of all the possibilities, and do I have a plan of action?
As with regular color formulations, you must consider the three contributions for
the end result:
1. Hair
a. Base
b. Target
2. Color
3. H2O2
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If the hair is damaged, or even questionable, you are much wiser to proceed slowly. Do
not take chances. Recondition as much as you think is necessary before proceeding. If
the integrity of the hair is compromised to the extent that it is weakened, breakage may
occur. Just as important, color may not adhere to protein-deficient hair, but fade or wash
out quickly.
Whenever you do corrective coloring, two assumptions are safe:
1. You will almost always need to use filler or repigmentize the hair.
Fillers:
a. Help to equalize excessive porosity.
b. Deposit color to faded ends in the absence of developer.
c. Make streaking and off-color less likely.
d. Produce natural-looking tint having uniformity and shine.
To determine what filler to use: Follow the manufacturer's advice, or go with a filler that
has deep red plus gold for levels I to 5; orange for levels 6 and 7; and gold for levels 8
to 10. The intensity of the filler should be determined by the level of your target color.
2. You will need to recondition the hair:
a. Prior to your corrective color service; reconditioners help the pigment
adhere to the hair
b. After your corrective color, reconditioners help “lock” in the pigment,
making it fade less.
c. Reconditioners allow you to proceed with caution!
Types of Corrective Coloring
Corrective coloring is usually done for these reasons:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Fix what clients or others have done.
Create extreme changes in image.
Tint from lighter hair to darker, natural color (tint-back).
“Strip” or remove color treatments before lightening to achieve lighter levels.
Correct off-colors (green, silver, purple, blue, brassy, and so forth).
Fixing Mistakes
Unfortunately, many clients "play around" with color at home. Some are lucky; many are
not. Although as professionals we may talk until we're blue in the face about reasons for
them to let us do their hair, human nature tells some clients "you can do it yourself."
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They do, and sometimes get it really wrong: brassy gold instead of sandy beige, green
instead of ash blonde, black instead of their own soft brown.
Your response to these predicaments might be, "I'll do what I can. I know my colors and
won't give up until you have a nice color again." If done properly your clients will swear
by your skills when finished! A goal for corrective color: Keep expectations reasonable,
and then knock their socks off!
Most clients are so desperate when needing a terrible color fixed, they practically
become groupies when you deliver a lovely, natural, healthy-looking color. Plus, they
expect to pay more because they made the mistake in the first place!
Image Change
You can warn your clients, "This service costs more. I do this, this, this, and this to
ensure your color looks as great as possible." The procedure for an extensive image
change varies depending on the client, but it usually involves multiple steps, and each
step involves time. Time, in turn, is charged for.
Tint-Backs
Tint-backs are services that return the client to her previous color or a darker color.
They almost always require fillers and usually require conditioning.
Color Removal or Stripping
A color removal service is almost always followed by a toner or tint, and for a good
reason. The color remover has a higher pH, which opens the cuticle of the hair. An
oxidizing tint, on the other hand, fills that cuticle and can act as a conditioning treatment
with its lower ph. The oxidation will lock in the color and reflect more shine. A toner or
tint also requires reconditioning and often fillers on porous ends and can also require
more than one tint formula for different areas.
Correcting Off-Colors
This procedure often includes a color removal treatment, conditioning, and filling porous
ends, depending on the base color level and target color.
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Adverse Effects of Hair
Coloring
Hair coloring involves the use of chemicals capable of removing, replacing and/or covering up
pigments naturally found inside the hair shaft. Use of these chemicals can result in a range of
adverse effects, including temporary skin irritation and allergy, hair breakage, skin discoloration
and unexpected hair color results.
Additionally, there is ongoing debate regarding more serious health consequences of hair color
usage, including lead poisoning.
Skin irritation and allergy
In certain individuals, the use of hair coloring can result in allergic reaction and/or skin
irritation.Symptoms of these reactions can include redness, sores, itching, burning sensation and
discomfort. If any of these symptoms occur, alert your hair colorist immediately so that they can
remove the color. Symptoms will not always be present right at the application and processing of
the tint but can also arise after hours or even a day.
To help prevent or limit allergic reactions, the majority of hair color products recommend that
the client conduct a patch test before using the product. This involves mixing a small quantity of
tint preparation and applying it directly to the skin for a period of 24 hours. If irritation develops,
manufacturers recommend that the client not use the product. A skin patch test is advised before
the use of every coloring process, since allergies can develop even after years of use with no
reaction.
Adverse reactions can result from both at-home and salon hair coloring products, as similar
chemicals are used in both settings.In some cases, allergic reactions are caused by the aniline
derivative and/or p-Phenylenediamine (PPD) found in permanent hair color.
Hair breakage
After just one use, hair color can begin to wear away hair’s outermost f-layer, the same fatty and
water repellent covering that allows a dog to clamber out of a lake and shake off most of the
droplets. Without this thin outer coating, hair can feel drier and coarser, appear duller, and allow
water to soak in more easily.
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Flat overlapping cells form the next layer, called the cuticle, which protects the hair’s central
cortex much like a shingled roof. Within that cortex, coiled protein fibers give hair its strength
and granules of melanin pigment govern its natural color. For a permanent dye to be effective,
hydrogen peroxide must squeeze between the cuticle cells and bleach the central melanin, with
ammonia serving as the catalyst. With the melanin’s own color drained away, the hydrogen
peroxide sets off a reaction that causes hair color precursors to link up and show their true colors,
whether a light auburn or a medium brown.
Repeated hair coloring can strain and chip away the cuticle — leaving hair harder to control even
as determined brushers become unwitting accomplices in destroying more of the unstable
shingle-like cells. And with less of the cuticle to stop them, the radicals are free to attack the
protein fibers wound up within the cortex by forcing apart their structural supports and fraying
their ends. Hence, those nasty split ends.
Even if you don’t color your hair, you have a small amount of copper from the tap water. With
every dye treatment, the hydroxyl radicals poke holes in the hair’s waterproofing and make it
increasingly porous, allowing more copper to get in during your next shampoo. People who
repeatedly color their hair, in fact, end up accumulating significant copper levels and
compounding the damage.
Hair that has been damaged by excessive exposure to chemicals is considered 'over-processed'.
This results in dry, rough and fragile hair. In extreme cases, the hair can be so damaged that it
breaks off entirely. This is especially true for Afro-textured hair, especially if used in
combination with relaxers. Treatments are available but the only real solution is to stop the use
of chemicals until the hair recovers.
It is advised that colored hair be deep conditioned regularly, and washed and conditioned with
gentle products specifically designed for color-treated hair. This will help keep the hair intact, as
well as ensuring that the color doesn't fade as quickly.
Skin discoloration
Skin and fingernails are made of the same type of keratinized protein as hair. That means that
drips, slips and extra hair tint around the hairline can result in patches of discolored skin. This is
more common with darker hair colors and persons with dry absorbent skin.This discoloration
will disappear as the skin naturally renews itself and the top layer of skin is removed (typically
takes a few days or at most a week). A good way to prevent dye discoloration is to put a thin
layer of Vaseline or any oil-based preparation around the hairline. It is recommended that latex
gloves be worn to protect the hands.
Unpredictable color resultsSeveral factors influence the final color of the hair following the
coloring process.
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
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For semi-permanent and demi-permanent color, the final color is always a blend of the natural
color of the strand and the dye color.
Bleached blond hair will most of the time require pre-pigmentation before a color application is
possible (for instance, dying blond hair brunette can result in bright red or green hair).
Previous use of henna (except for 100% pure, Body Art Quality henna) and "color restorers" can
react unpredictably with hair dyes.
Previous use of some shampoos, which deposit a layer of plastic on the hair can block the action
of the dye.
Presence of minerals, salts, chlorine or other environmental contaminants usually from
residential water supplies or sea water
Certain prescription drugs can alter hair chemistry
Dying dark hair blond requires knowledge of color theory. Once the hair is bleached, it will have
a yellow or coppery shade. A violet-based color must be used to cancel out yellow tones, and a
blue-based shade will cancel out coppery orange.
Professional hair colorists have a number of products which can correct or reduce the impact of
unintended hair coloring outcomes.
Health concerns
There is ongoing debate regarding more serious health consequences that may result from use of
hair coloring. Recent publications regarding the dangers of hair tints include:



An FDA study that found lead acetate (the active ingredient in gradual darkening products such
as Grecian formula) to be potentially toxic.
Articles that link the development of some forms of cancer (including leukemia, non-Hodgkin's
lymphoma, bladder cancer, blood cancer, and multiple myeloma) with use of hair color. More
specifically, prolonged use of permanent dark hair dyes can actually double a person's risk of
getting various types of blood cancer.
Recently a known human carcinogen, 4-Aminobiphenyl or 4-ABP, was found in some hair dyes
that you can get off the shelf.
Alternatives to Industrial Tints
Ancient civilizations dyed their hair using plants. Some of the most well known are henna,
indigo, Cassia obovata, senna, turmeric and amla. Others include katam, black walnut hulls, red
ochre and leeks.
Presently, there are companies that do sell alternate-based dyes for people that are sensitive to
PPD, a chemical found in most hair colors.
There are also safer products that avoid the side-effects of most industrial tints. The safer
alternatives generally contain fewer potentially toxic compounds or are plant based, and do also
have temporary, semi-permanent and permanent options with the same persistence as the
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industrial versions - however in practice, these products often do not last as long as industrial
tints. Users should be cautioned that allergic reactions are possible even from "natural" vegetable
dyes.
Henna is a plant (Lawsonia inermis) used for ayurvedic hair coloring. The orange dye is
commonly used as a deposit-only hair color whose active component, lawsone, binds to keratin
and is therefore considered semi-permanent to permanent, depending on a person's hair type.
However, most people will achieve a permanent color, especially after the second dye. In other
words, henna is permanent and does not wash out or fade away. With repeated use, the orange
color builds up into red and then auburn on the hair. While "natural" henna is generally a red
color, variations exist. These variations, however, usually contain ingredients from other plants
and even synthetic dyes. Indigo is natural dye from a plant (Indigofera tinctoria, suffructicosa or
arrecta) that can be added to henna or layered on top of it to create brown to black colors in the
hair. On the color wheel, henna is orange, and indigo is blue, so the two colors work together to
create brown tones. Like henna, indigo may fade after one application, but it becomes permanent
on the hair with repeated use.
Using a plant-based color such as henna, can cause problems later when trying to do a perm or
permanent hair color. Pure imported body art quality henna is claimed not to cause such
problems, but most store-bought henna is mixed with additives which can lead to unpredictable
results. Although it may not be visible on darker hair, the staining from henna will remain for
several months and this may only be realized when dyeing is attempted and an unpleasant,
permanent orange color results. Another method of hair dye is kool-aid. There are many colors
available, including blue, pink, green, purple, and red.
Choosing a Hair Color
Time was when your hair color choices were blonde, red, brunette, and black, but those days are
long gone! Each basic hair color comes in a full array of choices from platinum blonde to jetblack. Moreover, the modern consumer must choose from non-traditional hair colors that range
from hot pink to chartreuse. However, the wrong hair color choice can give you the blues and
leave you red in the face!
First Hair Color Choices
The best method in choosing a hair color is first to choose the results you want from it.
Depending on whether you are covering gray, highlighting a natural hair color, or using hair
color to completely change your image, knowing what you want helps you to narrow down hair
coloring choices. Before you get down to choosing a hair color, first decide on your commitment
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to hair coloring. Temporary hair colors wash out in a shampoo or two, semi permanent products
typically last for a couple of months, while permanent dyes may either give you grow-out pains
or necessitate frequent root touch ups.
Choosing a Compatible Hair Color
After you’ve decided on results and made your commitment, it’s time to get out the color wheel.
Beauty experts tell us that we’re either “cool” or “warm” depending on our skin tone, eye color,
and natural hair color.
Cool Category
Warm Category
Eyes
Dark Brown, Black-Brown, Gray
Golden brown, Green, Green-Blue,
Blue, Dark Blue, or Hazel with white Turquoise, Hazel with gold or brown flecks
gray or blue flecks
Hair
Blue black, Deep brown, Ash brown, Deep brown with gold or red highlights, Red,
Ash Blond, Platinum Blond
Strawberry Blond, Gray-Yellow, Natural
Golden Blond
Skin
Very dark brown, True olive,
Brown with pink or golden undertones,
Medium pale, Medium with golden Peachy or with peachy undertones, Pale with
undertones, Pale, Bronze
gold undertones, Freckled, Ruddy
Although this is good advice, if you’ve just finished a tanning session, if you have some
complexion problems (Rosacea, liver spots, blemishes), or if your hair color is already not what
nature intended (in other words previously tinted or more salt than pepper), it may be difficult to
determine by examining your skin tone and hair color. Don’t despair! There is a shortcut!
Examine your wardrobe. Cool hues are green, blue, and violet. Warm hues are reds, oranges, and
yellows. Chances are, your wardrobe is a mix with either cool or warm hues in the majority.
Clothing colors that look good on you and make you feel comfortable probably indicate if you’re
in the cool or warm category. For instance, if olive drab makes you fade into the woodwork, then
cool tones like ash blonde (ash tones contain green) are probably not for you. In addition, most
commercial hair colors have aids on the box, yet if you have a hard time deciding which group is
your group, you may want to seek the advice of a professional hair stylist.
Hair Color Tips:
1. Highlighting is a great way to add tone to monochromatic hair (jet black, pure brown).
2. Beware of hair colors that have green, blue, or purple undertones, like “ash”. If you mix them
with warm tones, your hair color will turn out green.
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3. The levels (one to twelve) you see on hair coloring boxes are the lightness or darkness of the
color. Level one is black (darkest) and level twelve is light blond.
4. “Complimentary colors” are opposite each other on the color wheel. Blue-orange, violet-yellow,
etc. If you want to neutralize unwanted highlights, choose the complementary color. For
instance, red will cancel out an ash undertone, and an ashen color neutralizes any red highlights
in your hair.
5. Be sure to check if your hair color is a “progressive dye”. Progressive dyes continually add more
color with each use. For instance, if you’re coloring blond hair black, your first use of a
progressive hair color may not give the result you expected. However, continued use will turn
your hair jet black.
6. Hair colors, like perms, are chemically based. If you’re pregnant, be sure to check with your
doctor before coloring your hair.
7. Henna hair dyes are organic based hair colors that don’t mix well with chemicals.
8. Stay out of the pool and the ocean after coloring your hair. Neither sea salt nor chlorine mixes
well with chemical hair colors.
SECTION 6: HAIR COLORING CONCEPTS AND SALON MANAGEMENT
HAIR COLORING
TECHNIQUES
Past hair coloring techniques often made it necessary to camouflage a “dye job” with a perky cut
or a wig. Lightening jet-black hair meant hours of bleaching that left hair looking more like
yellow straw than platinum blond. Towheads, who wanted a darker shade, were often left with a
gothic look before gothic was a trend and those looking for strawberry blond commonly got fireengine red. Of course, modern hair coloring techniques made fire-engine red a fashion trend
instead of a hair coloring catastrophe!
Modern hair coloring techniques add true dimension to style right down to the natural movement
of your hair. Highlights, twilights, and lowlights are just a few of the choices that enhance both
your face and your hairstyle. In addition, hair coloring techniques include veiling and chunking.
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The methods used for application are many and varied. Several modes of application
are equally adequate and professional.
Be advised that you should:
1. Make it look as though the client would have difficulty trying to copy your
procedure at home. (Brush application)
2. Make your application as neat and professional as possible.
3. Find a method that is easy for you to master and use efficiently. In other words,
get it on fast!
Keep in mind, color begins developing the moment it is mixed with the developer,
so you have to be very competent with your applications.
CONSULTATION AND PREPARATION
Begin all color services with client consultation! Then:
1. Most salons today prefer having their clients change to a tint gown for the
process. It's much more practical, not to mention safer when it comes to any
spills that might occur if a customer has a stain on his or her clothing, and it is not
the customer's fault it's yours. You alone are responsible for making certain the
proper procedures and precautions are taken.
2. If you do not have gowns at your disposal, make sure you protect the client's
clothing with a towel. At all times make sure the cape is pulled out from the chair
to protect clothing.
3. Preshampoo! Use a clarifier and really get down cleaning hair! Comb through
hair and dry under a cool dryer to avoid scalp irritations.
Don't scrub or stimulate the scalp before a chemical treatment-just lightly
apply the clarifier making sure it absorbs into all the hair.
4. Next, place a towel on the outside of the cape around the neck and clip. (You
may, on occasion, have salon owners or managers who don't want you to use
too many towels-honest!). Whatever the policies and procedures followed, try to
rate customer comfort as your first and utmost consideration.
5. Before mixing the color, use cream around the edges of the hairline (on skin
only) to prevent stains and irritations. The only exception is with light blondes
because the pigment weight will not allow for staining of the skin.
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6. Section in quadrants (fourths).
a. Part from middle ear to ear
b. Part down the center of the head.
c. Clip o of the way.
Put on your gloves! Always use gloves, or eventually your hands will develop
sensitivities to products not to mention how awful those stained hands look!
7. Mix color right before applying to use the full development time. Most
manufacturers want you to put the H202 in first, then the color. For lifting tints, you
should mix only enough formula to apply to one section at a time.
8. Start applying where?
a. If you're going darker, start in the lightest area (usually the front).
b. If you're going lighter, start in the darkest area (usually the back).
As a rule, when applying color, outline each section first, except right on the
hairline edges. Do it quickly. It will aid you by showing the outline of your work.
Don't apply right on the hairline hairs at first because they're so fine they will
“grab” darker.
Types of Hair Coloring Techniques
BASIC PROCEDURES
The following is a normal tint application using a brush procedure found to be effective:
1. Begin applying at the top of the head.
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2. Slant your sections up toward the front to accommodate the round shape of the
head.
3. Use very small section lines (1/8 inch for retouches and 1/4 inch for shaft
applications).
4. Start 1/2 inch out from scalp for virgin lightening or reds.
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5. Apply from roots to ends with virgin hair going same tone or darker.
6. Rest the handle of the brush on the tips of the forefinger and middle finger; hold
the brush in place with your thumb.
7. Rotate the brush between thumb and finger to use the tip of the handle to make
diagonal partings.
8. Draw a line to your thumb.
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9. Grasp the sectioned hair between thumb and forefinger.
10. Push excess hair downward with the brush handle still flat to separate the strands.
11. Then l i f t the strand away and out with tension, then upward.
12. Dip brush in color formula.
13. Scrape the product from the back side of the brush.
14. Rotate the brush in your fingers and apply to the regrowth from the top of the
regrowth in one continuous motion.
15. If regrowth is less than 1/4 inch use the edge of the brush, drawing tips of brush
along the subparting, working the color into the scalp.
16. Repeat until finished.
Some reminders may be helpful:
 Be careful! Don't overlap!
 Dip your brush in the color formula for each section application.
 Remove any excess color from the skin around the hairline as soon as your
application is completed. The more care you take during and immediately after
application, the easier the color removal will be!
 Lift the hair out from the scalp to assist the oxidation process.
 If you are applying to the shaft or ends, coat the brush more liberally. (These areas
are more porous and require more product.)
You should still use one side only of the brush for neatness; hold the hair on your
outstretched palm and work the color into the hair on your palm. After coating all the
hair comb the product from scalp to ends, or as indicated by the process you require.
Your color is complete when the desired color is reached (usually when the regrowth
matches the shaft and ends).
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Highlights: Probably one of the first innovations in hair coloring, highlights brightens and adds
shine. Highlights work best in warm shades of gold, honey, amber, and reds and can be applied
with permanent hair color or created with over-the-counter hair mascara, such as Christian Dior's
Mascara Flash Highlights or Revlon Professional Luminates, both of which wash out after one
shampoo.
Twilighting: When you want a lighter hair color to show a subtle change, twilighting is the
answer. Twilighting tones down too-bright hair colors by adding a few darker tones. Twilights
are closely related to lowlights.
Lowlights: A hair coloring technique that adds real depth to hair color. Like twilights, low lights
add darker tones and soften the look of over-lightened hair or add dimension to hair color that
looks flat. A skilled stylist can weave up to three different colors into your hair by pulling a few
strands here and there through a weave cap for a subtle look or foiling chunks of your hair for a
dramatic, trendy look.
Veiling: Brightens and enhances old flat hair color by applying a semi-permanent glaze in a
richer tone over a permanent shade.
Chunking: Takes large, random sections of hair and infuses them with new color. Chunking is a
hair coloring technique that gives dramatic impact to your hairstyle, often by adding bright,
trendy colors to natural hair color.
WEAVE AND FOIL PROCEDURES
Because weave and foil techniques are so predominant in today's salons, every colorist
needs to have skill in the application of these techniques. Frosts are being replaced with
more accurate and professional foils with weaving and foiling techniques. These
techniques not only intrigue the client and look as though they are more artistic and
difficult, they are nearly impossible to duplicate at home. Here are some suggestions for
great streaks or weavings.
Weave Procedure
After consultation, plan color(s) to be used and your pattern. Example: Use two colors, a
blonde and a medium red, to add highlights. Alternate two blonde weavings with one
red to have a golden blonde highlight, two red with one blond for a more strawberry
blonde effect, or one medium lift light blonde, one darker golden blonde, and one thin
slice one or two levels darker than the client's own color This gives movement and
dimension to the hair.
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Use 3 formulas for a dimensional effect that creates movement:
1. medium lift light blond
2. one darker golden blonde
3. one darker than client's color
Remember the Rules of Haircoloring, especially #4. Include enough of the darker tint
formula to "ground" the hair color and give it a balanced effect. The beauty of planning
your pattern is that it allows you creativity and helps customize your techniques.
1. Prepare foils (should be done before your scheduled appointment time).
2. Prepare your client for a tint, remembering to use tint apron or smock and gloves
for yourself.
3. Divide the hair into the desired sections. Your vertical panels should be no wider
than three inches.
4. Two choices:
a. When making your subsections, begin parting at the bottom of each
panel and work up to avoid slippage of the woven strands.
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b. If beginning at the top, lay your foil against the top of the head and push
each strand up against it to avoid slippage.
5. When performing a weave procedure, mix very small amounts of product,
enabling continuity in lift and timing. If bleach is used for the procedure, stagger
volumes to control the lift. Example: first panel, use 10 volume, second use 20,
etc.
6. Beginning in the area that requires the most lift or deposit effect, part a I /4-inch
subsection horizontally and hold at a 90° angle from the base with tension.
7. Holding a wiretail comb parallel to the section, beginning on the right side of the
section, insert the wiretail comb with an up and down motion, weaving across
subsection hair to the opposite side of the section.
8. With the woven hair grasped in your thumb and forefinger, push the lower part of
the subsection downward with the wiretail, separating the strands.
9. If using choice (a), take one piece of precut foil; fold the top 1/4 inch over the
edge of the wiretail comb, making a clean, straight fold.
It's a toss up. Some people prefer the folded edge on the under side of the
foil, some prefer the folded edge on the upper side.
10. Lift the separated subsection and place the wiretail with foil attached directly
under the parting against the scalp.
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11. Hold the edges of foil from above, just past the edges of the subsectioned
strands. Slide the wiretail comb out without disturbing the hair.
12. Still holding the thumb and finger against the foil, load the tint brush with your
premixed formula. Starting 1 / I 6 inch from the edge of foil, apply to all strands
on foil with a downward motion, allowing for complete coverage and keeping the
hair in place on the foil.
13. With your thumb and finger against the foil, fold the foil toward the scalp in half;
fold left side over to the center, then the right side or use the wiretail to crease
the foil and bend it where desired.
14. For a heavy foiled effect, weave from each subsection. For more subtle results,
apply to every other section.
15. More than one color may be used. Remember to frequently mix small batches of
color, ensuring the proper processing.
16. When checking the processing, make sure to keep foils close to the scalp. If the
first sections need removing before the last sections are complete, use a towel
and water spray to stop processing action. Or use an antioxidant (product that
halts oxidation).
17. Foils need not be removed individually when rinsing. Place the client's head in
the shampoo bowl, apply medium temperature and water pressure, and foils will
"rinse" from the hair.
18. Shampoo with the appropriate shampoo and conditioner.
19. Style to desired finish.
If you use choice (b), just place the straight edge of the foil against the section line at
scalp and bend hair strand over it to hold the foil in place as you apply the product.
Then simply fold the edge back to the part so the foil bends in half to the scalp.
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Foil Procedure
The foil procedure would follow the same steps as the weave procedure, except for the
following:
1. Rather than weaving pieces from each section, the horizontal subsection taken is
much smaller, up to 1/16 inch depending on hair density. Color is then applied to
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the entire subsection, eliminating the weave process.
2. Color is applied to small sections mentioned in # 1, but the uncolored subsections will be taken in 1/8- to I/2-inch partings.
3. You may use one, two, three, or four colors and may also use bleach or a
blonding creme mixture.
4. Processing, checking, and removal are identical to the weave procedure.
5. Due to the elimination of the weaving process, the foil technique enables the
service to be completed more quickly. However, to ensure correct results
extreme care must be taken to maintain very small subsections while applying.
As with any other technical service, practice builds speed. So practice, practice,
practice!
Weave caps: Used most often in highlighting, twilighting, and lowlighting, your stylist pulls
small strands through holes in the weave cap. The effect is usually a subtle change that enhances
your basic hair color. Highlighting with a weave cap also helps to camouflage gray or roots
growing back after a permanent hair color application.
Foiling: Your stylist places sections of hair onto rectangular sheets of foil and applies color or
lightener, folding the foil to keep the color in place and away from other sections. Of all
highlighting techniques, foiling can be applied closest to the root.
Baliage: A great application for textured, natural curls, or wavy hair. Your stylist selects specific
areas and hand paints them with color. This dramatic implementation of a hair coloring
technique leaves you with a very “personal” appearance! It’s important to note that although kits
are available for most all hair coloring techniques; professional stylists have the skill that comes
with experience. Especially for hard to color shades like gray, platinum, and black hair, it’s
wisest to consult a professional before you try a new hair color technique at home!
Caramel-Flaging Technique: Caramel-flaging produces brilliant highlights, lowlights, and
shine on gray hair with a diffused regrowth line and low maintenance.
1. Divide hair in three sections. Then divide sections ear to ear.
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2. On 30% to 75% gray hair use three formulas:
a. Formula # 1 is two to four levels lighter than natural base color with 30 or 40
volume developer May use high lift color or lightening formula such as Blazing
Hair.
b. Formula #2 is at the same level or one level lighter as the base color in golden or
red-brown tone with 20 volume developer.
c. Formula #3 is at the same level as the base color or one level darker in a natural
tone with I 0 or 20 volume developer.
3. Using tiny slices (1/6 inch) and the foiling technique, apply color to all the hair.
4. On the top third of the head, apply Formula # I alternating with Formula #2 and #3,
Example: # I , #2, # I , #3, # I , #2, # I , #3 so there are more of # I.
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5. On the middle third of the head, apply even amounts of all three colors.
6. On the lower third of the head, apply Formula #3 alternating with #2. Use # I with the first
alternation only Use #2 (base color) at all hairline areas and scalp to ensure 100%
coverage.
7. Process I 0 to 20 minutes until desired tones are achieved.
8. Remove foils; shampoo and condition.
HAIR COLORING IDEAS
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Hair Coloring Forecasts
Expert beauty consultants predict that the trend in hair colors is moving away from dramatic
color and back towards more natural colors and highlighting techniques. Yet, not everyone wants
to blend into the crowd. Make your personality your first consideration in choosing a hair color
or hair coloring technique that’s a perfect fit for you.

Are you sweet or saucy?

Do you like to stay “in style” with the season or are you a rebel?

Are you after the avant-garde or do you prefer traditional hair colors and techniques?

Are you comfortable in the spotlight or would you rather sit in the audience?

What hair color or technique really catches your eye and do you want to be caught up in
it?
Sweet and Saucy
Highlight straight dark hair with a top layer of light-colored curls or curls in untraditional colors.
Reverse the colors for a bolder, saucier look.
Seasonal Hair Color Changes
Fall and spring seem to be the most frequent times for hair color changes. In the autumn, we
often make a change in hair color or style to forestall the winter doldrums. Then, the very
freshness of spring encourages us to recreate a new image for ourselves.
Although we like to blame the sun for fading hair colors, as well as summer sun-fade, hard water
and harsh hair care products can dull hair color over fall and winter. Spring is a great time to
highlight hair with low-lights. Low-lights darken sections of your hair and make natural hair
highlights sparkle in the summer sun.
Keeping Hair Color in Character
In the movie Steel Magnolias, Sally Fields remarks that her hair looks like a football helmet. If
you’re wearing a helmet, put some kick into your simple do with hair color spice that
compliments your skin tone and brings out the best in your facial features.
Foiling with three or four tones adds dimension to simple hairstyles. Blend a rich color like
eggplant, burgundy, or bright red with lighter hair coloring highlights to effect a dramatic change
without being overly emotive.
Hair Color in the Spotlight
One-tone hair colors are making a comeback. When you want to make a striking change,
consider coloring your hair jet black, going platinum, becoming a real redhead, or really going
for the gold, bronze, silver, blue etc.
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If you’re not ready to plunge whole head into color, add a flash of color up front with bold
colored bangs or make your personal color statement with just a tone or two to give your hair a
hint of extraordinary color. Deeper colors add sizzle to dark hair and blonde colors, from ash to
honey, add fire to lighter colored hair.
Whatever hair color trends catch your eye, the diversity in modern hair colors and hair coloring
techniques leave you with plenty of hair color ideas to shape your hairstyle and your image.
Tips for at Home Hair Coloring
When time or money doesn’t allow you the pampering of salon color, you’ll find that at home
hair coloring preparations are both affordable and easy to use.
Be prepared.
1. Start healthy: Deep condition your hair. Then wait a couple of days after shampooing to
give the natural oils in your scalp time to resurface. They’ll help protect your skin from
chemical reactions, help your hair color to set better, and give you more uniform results
overall.
2. Put your toolkit together. Wear an old t-shirt and gather up some older towels and
washcloths that you won’t miss if they get stained. Include some hair clips for
sectioning your hair, have a timer handy and find a hand mirror so that you can see the
back of your head.
3. While you wait, take some time to getting to know the density of your hair. Practice
sectioning before you have to handle your hair in one hand and an applicator bottle in
the other!
Give a natural boost to hair color – go organic!
Hair Color Espresso – Perk up black or brown hair with a strong cup of dark grind coffee or
espresso. Brew, cool and add it to your dry hair. Shampoo after 30 minutes.
Nuts about Hair Color – Add sparkle to dark hair with walnuts. Boil one cup of chopped
walnuts with one cup of water. Cool, strain, and pour it on! Shampoo after 30 minutes.
Hair Color to a Tea – To add highlights to dark hair, brew a cup of strong dark tea and use it as
a final rinse after shampooing.
Spray or comb a cup of strong chamomile tea into blond or light brown hair. Leave on for twenty
minutes, shampoo and rinse.
Put Some Punch in Your Hair Color with Fruit Juices – Of course, you probably know that
lemon juice lightens, but did you know that using ½ cup of cranberry juice as a final rinse will
give a lift to red hair and add subtle red highlights to dark hair?
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* Even when coloring hair with these organics, always remember the color wheel. When
coloring hair, opposites don’t attract – they neutralize each other.
Special Hair Coloring Tips for Long Hair, Gray Hair, Natural Curls and Waves
Long hair: Four hands are better than two when coloring long hair. Get a friend to help you with
at home hair color.
The ends of long hair are more porous than the rest of the hair shaft. In addition, because your
body’s natural heat works to speed up the process of hair coloring, start color application in the
mid-lengths of long hair and work the color up to the roots and down to ends. If your hair is thick
as well as long, because of process time, it may be best to color it in sections.
Natural curls and waves: Experts generally advise against using permanent hair color on
naturally curly or wavy hair. Any type of chemical treatment can impact natural curly or wavy
hair. If your hair is already dry because of straightening or relaxing, the addition of more
chemicals can result in worse damage. In addition, semi-permanent colors give you richer color
that won’t fade like permanent color does.
Gray Hair: Hair turns gray or white when the hair shafts lose pigment. These shafts tend to be
coarser and less porous, making it more difficult to set hair color. Before coloring, soften gray
hair with a special softening shampoo or developer. Choose a color at least one shade darker than
your expected result. Keep the hair color on your hair for at least 35 minutes.
Healthy Hair – Hair Coloring Tips
Shampoo that’s made for color treated hair keeps your hair color soft and natural looking.
Regular shampoos can strip color and natural moisture from your hair.
Install a water filter for your shower or bath. Besides frequently being treated with chemicals, tap
water coming through old plumbing contains undesirable elements like rust that leave your new
hair color flat and dull looking.
Deep condition regularly – at least every two weeks – to restore moisture and shine to color
treated hair. As roots grow out, a color enhancing conditioner will help your natural hair color
blend with your color treated hair.
After shampooing, always blot your hair dry. Don’t rub hair dry or wrap it in a tight turban.
When using a blow dryer, dry your head– not your hair. Over drying hair strips it of moisture and
also results in static.
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Never use a brush on wet hair. Work through tangles with a wide tooth comb, starting with the
ends and moving to your scalp.
Conditioners that you leave in your hair often contain sunscreen and help protect your hair color
from fading.
Wetting your hair with bottled spring water helps to shield it from the harsh swimming pool
chemicals.
Roots grow out and hair color fades with time. Sometimes we’re just tired of our hair color and
want to get back to natural, but sometimes we're met with a hair color calamity. Whatever our
reasons for hair color removal, where there’s a will, today there is a way to return to normal hair
color.
First, if your hair color is over three days old, chances are you won’t be able to remove it. Your
best option is to find a professional skilled in different hair coloring techniques. Besides
highlighting drab hair colors, your stylist can darken too-light hair colors and offset hair color
mistakes. If you’ve experienced a hair color catastrophe in the last day or two, if you’re prompt,
the damage can probably either be minimized or completely reversed. Generally, hair color takes
from 48 to 72 hours to set into the cuticle. However, because this window is so brief, before you
begin experimenting with hair color removal, consult with a professional stylist.
In addition:
1. Even if your hair color problems are self-inflicted, good professionals are usually familiar
with consumer hair products and are best equipped to use the right hair color removal
methods. Depending on the product you used and the severity of the problem, your
stylist can remove, offset, or blend hair colors to repair the damage.
2. If your stylist made the mistake, she knows exactly what product she used and has a
better idea than anyone else as to what went wrong. Most professionals will do
everything they can to keep your business and their good reputation. No stylist wants to
be known as “the one who turned Judy’s hair green”!
3. Unless you caused the problem, most professionals will make corrections at no extra cost.
Just be sure to ask if they’ll “make it right” before you make an appointment for hair
color removal. If they expect to impose an additional charge, you’ll be able to choose
another option.
A Note on Hair Color Removal
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Hair Color Removal, commonly known as color correction, is a process used to rid the hair of
unwanted color. Certain hair colors such as black, red, blue, purple and dark browns often can
cause problems for a person seeking to change his or her hair color back to the original color.
Procedure
Hair stripping is similar to bleaching the hair, except that more intense products are
used. The bleaching product raises sulfite levels and makes the hair more porous. This
allows all of the color in the hair to be removed. After this process, the hair usually
becomes a very ashy blonde color or often auburn. Other dyes may then be added to
the hair.
Disadvantages
Some people believe that the process is excessively dangerous, because the substance
eats away at the cortex and the cuticle of the hair, which then absorbs the color from the
medulla (or hair center). This is very dangerous and the hair may undergo some very
serious problems such as dryness, breaking, porosity and other serious problems. After
hair stripping, the hair must be conditioned excessively. There are many products
available for colour stripping but the safest way is to visit a hairdresser.
Home Hair Color Removal
Quick Fixes
The only way to remove permanent hair color is with a color removal product. Depending on the
color that you selected, you may be able to cover the permanent color with a semi or demi-color.
Enlist the advice of the color manufacturer before you start experimenting with different
coverage shades or you could wind up with the color of mud.
If your visions of Pamela Lee blonde turned to Carrot Top orange, only a color expert can safely
get you back to a safe color zone. The same is true for purple, pink, blue or some green. Some
chlorine enhanced greens can be removed with a special chlorine removal shampoo. When all
else fails, try the tomato juice soak. The red in the juice will neutralize the green in many cases.
Many people have color disasters with henna. Not only does henna coat the hair, it is highly
unpredictable for some users. If a horrid shade of henna is haunting you, reach for good old
fashioned mineral oil.
To lessen or even remove henna from the hair:
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1. Saturate hair strands with a mixture of 70% alcohol applied with sterile cotton balls. Avoid the
scalp area.
2. Follow 5-10 minutes later with a coating of mineral oil. Apply the mineral oil on top of the
70% alcohol. Avoid the scalp area.
3. Cover your new oily head with Saran or similar plastic. A plastic shower cap will also work
well.
4. Sit under a hood dryer for 30-45 minutes. If you don't have a hood dryer, direct a heat
concentrator towards the hair from your blow dryer.
5. To remove the oil apply a little shampoo to the palms of your hands and then pat on the oil
BEFORE you apply water. After you have applied the shampoo to the oil areas, turn on the
shower and lather. Use a good cleansing or clarifying shampoo. You may need to shampoo more
than once to remove all the oil and the henna. If necessary, repeat as needed.
6. Once you have removed the henna, be sure to perform deep conditioning treatments to restore
moisture to the hair.When in doubt about henna, don't do it. Take your time and do lots of
research to be sure you are on the right track to desired color results.
Here are some other ways to recover from the horrors of bad color:
1. Time heals all hair color wounds
Although you may hate your new color, if neither home nor professional correction are an
option, consider going shorter with a new style that will allow you to outgrow the color quickly.
Ask your stylist to help you select a style that minimizes any new roots or growth. Give yourself
some time to let the color fade naturally away.
2. Heat to fade
Hot water is notorious for fading chemically colored hair. Some volume shampoos and gels like
Matrix Amplify and related products may also help fade color faster because it is designed to
blow open the hair cuticle which sometimes accelerates hair color loss. Hot extra virgin olive oil
and some commercial oil treatments will also help to strip chemically applied color. An old trick
of colorists is to shampoo with Prell shampoo which is known for its color striping talents. Don’t
assume that it will remove your unwanted hues. It will help fade your color which may or may
not be a good thing. While this may or may not be a good option for quickly moving past
unwanted temporary or demi-perm colors, it may actually accentuate a bad shade on permanently
applied color.
3. Make lemonade out of lemons
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Yes, I know it sounds sappy, but I really believe that when life gives you lemons, you can have
fun making lemonade. Being positive really helps in any bad situation, including sporting a head
of pink and purple hues when you wanted cookies and cream.. Not only does positive thinking
and actions make you feel better, it gives you the opportunity to learn new ways to appreciate
your hair.
Set aside some private time, drag out all your hair styling tools and play with some new looks
that can help you pass the time while your horrible hue grows out. Styling products like volume
enhancing mousse or extra strength gel can work wonders on instantly changing limp locks into
luscious fat locks. A good straightening or defrisant balm can remove the frizzes for a smooth,
sleek shiny cap and help you to forget that it just happens to be slightly orange.Experiment with
hot rollers or styling irons to achieve a different texture and movement.
4. Vitamins
No, hair vitamins will not instantly help you outgrow a bad dye job. However, it will help
maximize your genetic hair growth rate and to help you grow super healthy new strands and
leave bad color behind.
5. Accessorize
Use hair clips, barrettes, jeweled hairpins and headbands to camouflage uneven color. Grab
the latest fashion headgear as a last resort and only if you really must.
6. Get out of the house
Avoid the temptation to let your bad hair color experience prevent you from enjoying your life.
Don't pass up a special social event just because your hair looks less than perfect. Spend some
time before the event practicing some cool ways to equalize your color challenged hair.
Sometimes color shampoos will help soften the blow of bad colors. No, it won't change them,
but it might make you feel better. Then go out and enjoy yourself.
7. Offer to be a hair model
If you can't afford color correction services you may want to call around to the local cosmetology
colleges to see if they need a model to teach color correction on. Although it's a long shot, you
never know when a school may want to use your head to teach their students what can happen
with bad hair color results.
8. Once burned
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Surviving one really bad hair color experience should help you avoid them in the future. Always
make sure that you have a pre-color consultation with your stylist and that you believe you are
both on the same hair page.
Take photos of your desired hues since stylists work well with a visual view to guide them. Once
the color begins, watch carefully. If you think the color process is going wrong, instantly stop the
process. If your head or scalp starts to sting or burn speak up immediately. Remember, it is your
hair and you have to live with it. Don't be shy, speak up and leave if you must.
If your hair color problem resulted from an at-home application, start looking for help from the
maker. Most major manufacturers have a consumer help line. You’ll find the phone number
either on the box or in the instructions pamphlet.
Oh sure! It’s evening, the help line closed at 5 p.m., and you work at 7 a.m.!
1. Almost too simple to be true, but hot water sometimes fades chemical hair colors.
2. Volume shampoos and gels are often designed to blow open the hair cuticle. Although
they won’t completely remove hair color, they may speed up the process.
3. Hot extra-virgin olive oil also may help strip chemical colors. However, do be careful.
You don’t want to soak your head in boiling oil!
4. Get out the scissors. A short cut can minimize hair color problems. Your stylist can
suggest one that will camouflage old color with new hair growth.
5. Put on a scarf and head to the nearest open-all-night super-store.
o
The red in tomato juice may help neutralize green hair color.
o
If your hair color came from a product that was chlorine enhanced, a special
chlorine removal shampoo may help tone it down.
o
A couple of hair color removal products are worth considering:
o
One ‘n Only Colorfix – Made to remove permanent hair color and may even be
used to correct color in specific areas.
o
Clairol The Uncolor System Haircolor Remover – A semi-permanent hair color
remover that Clairol says is gentle, quick, and easy.
Tips for successful hair color removal:
1. Always strand test before you try any hair color removal
2. Deep conditioning with a low pH conditioner after hair color removal helps protect your
hair as well as return it to natural softness and shine.
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3. Remember to protect your clothing from hair color removal products. Even tomato juice
can leave a nasty stain!
4. Precisely follow the directions on all hair color removal products.
5. Do not use hair color removal products on henna. Henna is unpredictable and can leave
you with unusual results!
6. Keep hair color removal products away from your eyes. Don’t ever use them on lashes or
brows.
7. Don’t use bleach for hair color removal. Bleach helps artificial colors penetrate deeper
into the hair shaft and weakens the hair shaft, causing even more damage.
Summary of Hair Color
Chemistry
Haircoloring: Bleaching
The first safe commercial haircolor was created in 1909 by French chemist Eugene
Schuller, using the chemical paraphenylenediamine. Hair coloring is very popular today,
with over 75% of women coloring their hair and a growing percentage of men following
suit. How does haircolor work? It's the result of a series of chemical reactions between
the molecules in hair, pigments, as well as peroxide and ammonia, if present.
Hair Color, is a chemical tool that is used to change the color of a person's hair. Hair
dye is used mostly to change gray hair, since gray hair is a sign of an advanced age.
Younger people that used hair dye use it as a fashion statement or simply because they
want to change their hair color. The Romans have been known to be interested in
changing hair color and history revealed that they created over a hundred recipes that
are made out of natural ingredients but unfortunately it could only darken hair. In
Renaissance time, blonde was a popular choice because it was considered to be
angelic and attractive. In 1907, Eugene Schueller, the founder of L'Oreal, created the
first synthetic hair dye, but it wasn't widely sold. There have been concerns about hair
dye and scientists are trying to find out if there is a link between hair color and cancer.
What is Hair?
Hair is mainly keratin, the same protein found in skin and fingernails. The natural color
of hair depends on the ratio and quantities of two other proteins, eumelanin and
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phaeomelanin. Eumelanin is responsible for brown to black hair shades while
phaeomelanin is responsible for golden blond, ginger, and red colors. The absence of
either type of melanin produces white/gray hair.
Natural Colorants
People have been coloring their hair for thousands of years using plants and minerals.
Some of these natural agents contain pigments (e.g., henna, black walnut shells) and
others contain natural bleaching agents or cause reactions that change the color of hair
(e.g., vinegar). Natural pigments generally work by coating the hair shaft with color.
Some natural colorants last through several shampoos, but they aren't necessarily safer
or gentler than modern formulations. It's difficult to get consistent results using natural
colorants, plus some people are allergic to the ingredients.
Temporary Hair Color
Temporary or semi-permanent haircolors may deposit acidic dyes onto the outside of
the hair shaft or may consist of small pigment molecules that can slip inside the hair
shaft, using a small amount of peroxide or none at all. In some cases, a collection of
several colorant molecules enter the hair to form a larger complex inside the hair shaft.
Shampooing will eventually dislodge temporary hair color. These products don't contain
ammonia, meaning the hair shaft isn't opened up during processing and the hair's
natural color is retained once the product washes out.
How Lightening Works
Bleach is used to lighten hair. The bleach reacts with the melanin in hair, removing the
color in an irreversible chemical reaction. The bleach oxidizes the melanin molecule.
The melanin is still present, but the oxidized molecule is colorless. However, bleached
hair tends to have a pale yellow tint. The yellow color is the natural color of keratin, the
structural protein in hair. Also, bleach reacts more readily with the dark eumelanin
pigment than with the phaeomelanin, so some gold or red residual color may remain
after lightening. Hydrogen peroxide is one of the most common lightening agents. The
peroxide is used in an alkaline solution, which opens the hair shaft to allow the peroxide
to react with the melanin.
Permanent Hair Color
The outer layer of the hair shaft, its cuticle, must be opened before permanent color can
be deposited into the hair. Once the cuticle is open, the dye reacts with the inner portion
of the hair, the cortex, to deposit or remove the color. Most permanent hair colors use a
two-step process (usually occurring simultaneously) which first removes the original
color of the hair and then deposits a new color. It's essentially the same process as
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lightening, except a colorant is then bonded within the hair shaft. Ammonia is the
alkaline chemical that opens the cuticle and allows the hair color to penetrate the cortex
of the hair. It also acts as a catalyst when the permanent hair color comes together with
the peroxide.
Peroxide is used as the developer or oxidizing agent. The developer removes preexisting color. Peroxide breaks chemical bonds in hair, releasing sulfur, which accounts
for the characteristic odor of haircolor. As the melanin is decolorized, a new permanent
color is bonded to the hair cortex. Various types of alcohols and conditioners may also
be present in hair color. The conditioners close the cuticle after coloring to seal in and
protect the new color.
A hairdresser is applying a chemical treatment to color a client's hair.
Bleaching, lightening, or de-coloring (removing pigment) hair can be achieved by using
natural sunlight or chemicals designed specifically for this purpose. Using sunlight
alone, the results achieved will depend on the natural color of the hair. Visible results
can take several weeks or months. If the natural hair color is darker than a medium
blonde, the most successful way to lighten the hair is using hydrogen peroxide and an
ammonia-based hair lightener.
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In order to understand how the process of chemically lightening hair works, it is
important to understand the structure of a shaft of human hair.
Figure 1, below (from a scientific article on the biochemistry of human skin by Desmond
Tobin, Ph.D.), illustrates the microscopic structure of a human hair.
The left-hand panel of the illustration (Figure 1a), is a cartoon of a human hair shaft with
a cut-away view to show the inner structure. Each strand of hair has an outer layer of
flattened cuticle cells (Cu), which surround the fibrous cortical cells (Co).
The medulla (Md) is a central core of cells in the hair shaft. Also shown is a micro fibril
(MF) within a cortical cell.
The middle panel (Figure 1b), shows an actual hair shaft under the microscope. You
can see how the flattened cuticle cells (Cu) have a scale-like appearance when
magnified. The dark central medulla (Md) is also visible.
The right-hand panel (Figure 1c), shows a cross-section of a fine human hair. Here you
can see that the cuticle cells (Cu) are highly flattened, and wrap around the cortical cells
(Co) in many layers. The cortical cells contain the dark pigment granules that give each
hair strand its natural color (Tobin, 2006).
Figure 1. Microscopic structure of a human hair shaft. Part (a) shows a cutaway cartoon of a
single hair shaft. The labels show cuticle cells (Cu), cortical cells (Co), the medulla (Md), and a
micro fibril (MF) within a cortical cell. Part (b) shows a transmitted light micrograph of a single
hair strand. The scale-like layer of cuticle cells (Cu) is clearly visible, as is the central medulla
(Md). Part (c) shows a cross-section of a fine hair strand. The flattened cuticle cells (Cu) wrap
tightly around the cortical cells (Co), which contain many dark pigment granules (Tobin, 2006).
The predominant proteins in hair are from the family of keratins, the same family of
proteins that make your fingernails. Protein molecules are built from amino acids. In a
hair strand, the keratin molecules contain a large number of a particular amino acid
called cysteine. Each cysteine in the keratin molecule is a potential attachment point,
where the keratin molecule can be tightly connected to another cysteine, forming a
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chemical bond called a cross-link. The keratins in hair have many such cross-links,
making a hair strand strong and flexible. If you are interested in finding out about how
hair grows, you should do research on hair follicles, the specialized structure in the skin
that produces each individual hair strand.
The cuticle cells also have a coating of specialized molecules that repel water. These
molecules are called lipids. By repelling water, the lipid molecules help to protect the
hair strand. In order for bleaching chemicals to reach the pigment molecules in the
cortical cells, the cuticle layer (including its protective lipid coating) must first be opened
up. In chemical lightening solutions, this opening is accomplished by making the
solution basic. You should do background research on the pH scale, to learn about
basic, neutral, and acidic solutions. See the Bibliography for resources to get started.
The hair pigment goes through different stages of changing color as it lightens. The
amount of change depends on how much pigment the hair has and the length of time
the hair is exposed to the lightening chemicals. Lightening can be divided into roughly
seven stages from the darkest to the lightest. A natural head of black hair will go from
black to brown, to red, to red-gold, to gold, to yellow, and finally to pale yellow (almost
white). The hair also becomes more porous (increasing the hair's capacity to absorb
liquids) during the lightening treatment.
Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is an oxidizing chemical that bleaches the natural pigments
in human hair. For hair treatment, the concentration of hydrogen peroxide is often
expressed in volumes, referring to the total volume of oxygen (at standard temperature
and pressure) that can be produced from the hydrogen peroxide. A "10 volume" solution
is equivalent to 3% hydrogen peroxide in water (weight/volume, i.e., 3 grams of H2O2
plus enough water to make a total volume of 100 ml). A "20 volume" solution is
equivalent to 6% hydrogen peroxide, etc. (Wikipedia contributors, 2006). The higher the
concentration of peroxide used the greater the breakdown of melanin (tiny grains of
pigment which create natural hair color) resulting in a lighter color.
Hair lighteners are available for use in liquid, cream, and powder form. By mixing a
chosen concentration of hydrogen peroxide and a lightener, then applying the mixture to
natural hair, we can achieve visible lightening of selected pieces of human hair. In this
experiment, you will compare the results of lightening hair with a commercial product to
untreated hair, and to hair treated with a "natural" hair lightener such as lemon juice or
sunlight.
The first safe commercial haircolor was created in 1909 by French chemist Eugene
Schuller, using the chemical paraphenylenediamine. Hair coloring is very popular today,
with over 75% of women coloring their hair and a growing percentage of men following
suit. How does haircolor work? It's the result of a series of chemical reactions between
the molecules in hair, pigments, as well as peroxide and ammonia, if present.
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Hair Color and Pregnancy
Cautions and Alternatives
Hair color and pregnancy raises very real concerns for expectant mothers. Is it okay to
color your hair when you're with child?
There is no concrete evidence against hair coloring during pregnancy. Mostly because it
hasn't been studied in-depth on humans. Pregnant women (naturally) aren't willing to
subject themselves and their unborn children to testing.
The research studies that have been conducted on animals show an increased rate of
birth defects in fetuses. However, the ratio of chemical to blood is far higher in animals
than it would be in humans, so the results are not altogether reliable. In humans, the
chemical compounds in hair color are thought to have little or no effect on fetal
development.
So what's the concern all about?
Possible Dangers
Following are the major factors that should be considered when weighing the decision
about hair color and pregnancy...
Chemicals and Skin Contact
Permanent and semi-permanent color (either drugstore or professional brands) contain
a chemical called Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD). It's essentially a darkening agent -upon exposure to oxygen, it "oxidizes" and darkens the hue. The darker the color, the
more of this chemical it contains.
PPD is considered a contact allergen and a mild carcinogen. Couple this with the fact
that it is easily absorbed through the skin and the concern over use of hair dyes is
understandable.
Because some people are particularly sensitive to PPD, I would recommend that you
never color your hair for the first time during pregnancy. Although, people who have
colored their hair for years can suddenly develop a sensitivity as well.
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This is why a patch test is recommended before each haircolor application. However,
even a patch test can be unreliable as some people have delayed reactions to PPD.
Symptoms can take up to several weeks to become apparent.
Inhalation
The fumes from haircolor can make pregnant women nauseous. Some salons have
exceptionally good ventilation. Some don't. If you're feeling nauseous, get some fresh
air.
If it's a warm day, sitting outdoors while your hair processes is a great way to avoid
inhaling fumes and the sun will help your haircolor process more effectively. If it's not so
nice, stand outdoors for short spells and/or ask your stylist to cover your hair with a
plastic bag to keep the fumes enclosed. Alternatively, requesting an appointment early
in the day can help you avoid exposure to excessive fumes from surrounding clients
receiving chemical processes.
Alternatives for Hair Coloring and Pregnancy
Here are a few ideas that may help quell your concerns about coloring your hair during
pregnancy...
Timing
Many doctors advise waiting until the end of the first trimester to color. By that time, the
baby has reached important neurological and organ development milestones and the
fetus is considered less fragile.
Products and Application Options
There are several things that you can do to minimize any ill-effects as a result of mixing
hair color and pregnancy...
Using "vegetable dyes" (including some products sold as "natural" Henna's) is
considered by some a safe alternative. However, you should know that many of these
so-called "natural" color formulations may contain metallic dye components (i.e., lead,
copper, etc) and unless you're buying a 100% natural henna powder from a reputable
merchant, there's a chance your "vegetable dye" could contain PPD as well.
Even if you're covering grey hair, lowlights can be applied with foil. You or your stylist
can weave out the greyest strands and color them inside of a foil.
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Another option is to have your stylist use a silicone highlighting cap. Depending on the
results you're after, s/he can either pull a small percentage of hair through the holes for
a highlight or lowlight effect, or pull a larger percentage of hair through for more
coverage. The silicone cap will act as a barrier between your scalp and the haircolor
formula.
If you're coloring your own hair at home, ensure that you have sufficient ventilation and
wear gloves to keep the formula off of your hands (which should be done whether you're
pregnant or not). Also, have someone inspect your scalp before coloring to ensure that
you don't have any open sores. If you do, wait until they're healed to apply color.
Unpredictable Results
The hormonal changes that come with pregnancy can alter the results you get from your
hair color. Lighteners may not be as effective and tones may not adhere properly. Or,
your hair may color more easily than in the past. So be sure to keep a close eye on your
hair as it processes.
The Bottom Line
Ultimately, the decision of whether to color hair during pregnancy is your client's
personal decision.
Salon Business Management and Strategies
The amount of capital needed to start a salon or spa business will vary depending on the type of
services you will offer, the salon and spa equipment required, the basic fixtures and
administrative equipment required, the opening inventory of products you will offer, and
deposits for rent and utilities.
Salon Business Plan
A Salon Business Plan will help you to understand why you need to write one. It will put you
steps ahead of people that try to start a business without putting together a plan.
Your Salon Business Plan will help you to start a Salon Business that will make it through the
good and the bad times.
Writing a Salon Business Plan is one of the first things you should do if you are planning on
starting your own Salon business.
This type of business can be one of the most rewarding types of businesses to start because of
the personal involvement you can have with this business. You can be a part of just about every
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aspect of your Salon Business, and writing your Salon Business Plan will help you Salon
business to grow.
You can look over the operations of the whole business...
Or you can simply hire someone else to take care of these tasks for you...
Whether you plan on starting a beauty salon business, a tanning salon business, a nail salon
business or any type of salon business, a salon business plan will untimely help you get
things going in the right direction...
The day to day operations of your Salon Business can be overwhelming, if you don't have some
type of system.
Salon Business Plan System
A Salon Business Plan System is what makes a business run in an expedient manner.
You will need to create a Salon Business Plan System that will work for your Salon Business.
A Salon Business Plan System is the way you operate your business. This system should
include a plan of operation for every aspect of your Salon Business.
The First System
The first part of your Salon Business Plan System should include how you will run the day to
day operations of your Salon Business.
The Second System
The second part should include all of the equipment you will need to operate your Salon
Business.
This part should also include the day to day operations and the maintenance that should be done
on your equipment. This part should also include the preventive maintenance on this equipment
as well.
The Third System
The third part of your Salon Business Plan System should include your Salon Business menu
of services. This is the products and/or services that you will supply to your customers.
The Fourth System
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The fourth part of your Salon Business Plan System will be about the way you will deliver your
services to your customers.
Are you going to have workers to serve your customers?
Are you going to do it yourself? Or are you going to have both?
The Fifth System
The fifth part of your Salon Business Plan System is that, you are going to have to figure out
how you are going to pay for your Salon Business.
Are you going to self finance it or are you going to borrow the money from your friends
and family?
Or are you going to use your credit cards?
Are you going to obtain financing from a bank?
The Sixth System
The sixth part of your Salon Business Plan System is figuring out where your Salon Business
will be located.
Are you going to rent or lease a business location?
Are you going to buy a building for your business?
Before you actually start your Salon Business, it is best that you take time to figure out if this
is the type of business for you and your future.
Starting a business can be hard work. But chances are once it is successful all of the initial
planning will all have been worthwhile.
Writing your own Salon Business Plan will help you understand why you want to be in business
for yourself. It will also help you to be one step ahead on your business planning.
If you don't take care of your business, who do you think will do it for you?
Hair and Beauty Salon Business Plan (Example)
Here is an example of how a detailed business plan should look.
Imaginary Hair Salon Executive Summary
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Executive Summary
Imaginary Hair Salon is a full-service beauty salon dedicated to providing excellent service,
quality products, and furnishing an enjoyable atmosphere at an acceptable price/value
relationship. Our goal is to create an inviting atmosphere.
Our Mission: To provide great customer service and a relaxing atmosphere.
Our Motto: We can achieve what you imagine.
The timing is right for starting this new business adventure. After searching for ten months for
the perfect location, I finally found the perfect location. The demand of highly professional and
qualified beauticians has made this business one of great potential. To achieve our objectives,
Imaginary Hair Salon is seeking additional loan financing. This loan will be paid from the cash
flow from the business, and will be collateralized by the assets of the company, and backed by
the character, experience, and personal guarantees of the owners.
To achieve our objectives, Imaginary Hair Salon is seeking additional financing. This loan will
be paid from the cash flow from the business.
1.1 Keys to Success
The keys to success in our business are:

Location: providing an easily accessible location for customers.
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


Environment: providing an environment conducive to giving relaxing and professional
service.
Convenience: offering clients a wide range of services in one setting, and extended
business hours.
Reputation: reputation of the owner and other "beauticians" as providing superior
personal service.
Company Summary
Imaginary Hair Salon will sell a wide range of beauty services and products. What will set
Imaginary Hair Salon apart from the competition is our excellent customer in an upscale and
convenient location.
The salon will be located in a great area. It is easily accessible.
2.1 Start-up Summary
After spending several months searching for a salon to purchase, the decision was made to start a
salon from the ground up. The start-up capital will be used for the design, leasehold
improvements, and equipment of the salon. Leasehold improvements will amount to
approximately $32,500, and salon equipment will cost about $27,000. The owner will invest
$500 for cash-on-hand at starting date.
Start-up
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Requirements
Start-up Expenses
Rent deposit
$1,817
Other
$0
Total Start-up Expenses
$1,817
Start-up Assets
Cash Required
$500
Other Current Assets
$600
Long-term Assets
$59,500
Total Assets
$60,600
Total Requirements
$62,417
Start-up Funding
Start-up Expenses to Fund
$1,817
Start-up Assets to Fund
$60,600
Total Funding Required
$62,417
Assets
Non-cash Assets from Start-up
$60,100
Cash Requirements from Start-up
$500
Additional Cash Raised
$0
Cash Balance on Starting Date
$500
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Total Assets
$60,600
Liabilities and Capital
Liabilities
Current Borrowing
$0
Long-term Liabilities
$61,917
Accounts Payable (Outstanding Bills)
$0
Other Current Liabilities (interest-free)
$0
Total Liabilities
$61,917
Capital
Planned Investment
Owner
$500
Investor
$0
Additional Investment Requirement
$0
Total Planned Investment
$500
Loss at Start-up (Start-up Expenses)
($1,817)
Total Capital
($1,317)
Total Capital and Liabilities
$60,600
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Total Funding
$62,417
Products and Services
Imaginary Salon is considered an upscale full-service beauty salon. We will offer a wide range of
services that include:



Hair: cuts, relaxers, perms, colors, shampoo, conditioning, curling, reconstructing,
weaving, and waving.
Nails: manicures, pedicures, polish, sculptured nails.
Skin Care: European facials, body waxing, massage.
Strategy and Implementation Summary
Skilled at what we do, good customer service, and creating a pleasant environment for our
customers will be important to implementing our business plan.
4.1 Competitive Edge
Imaginary Hair Salon wants to set itself apart from other beauty salons that may offer only one
or two types of services. The manager has realized, from talking with her clients that they would
prefer to have all of their service rendered at one place. Although the focus of Imaginary Salon is
hair services, we do wish to offer our clients the convenience of these other services in one
location.
4.2 Marketing Strategy
Our marketing strategy is a simple one: “We can achieve what you imagine”.
No major advertising campaigns are anticipated. Our research has shown that word of mouth is
the best advertising for this type of business. We will, however, run specials throughout the
week. We will also ask clients for referrals, and reward them with discounted or free services
depending on the number of clients they bring. We will also offer discounts to the new clients
who have been referred.
4.3 Sales Forecast
The following table and charts show our projected sales. We expect income to increase steadily
over the next three years, as the reputation of the salon, its stylists and services become apparent
to the general public. Second year revenues also anticipate the addition of one new stylist.
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Note that we list no direct cost of sales here for services, only for products, since our service
costs are more accurately tracked as regular monthly expenses for supplies in the Profit and Loss
table.
Sales Forecast
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Owner
$49,600
$57,040
$65,696
Stylist #1
$49,600
$57,040
$65,596
Barber #1
$16,800
$19,320
$22,218
Stylist #2
$22,800
$25,622
$29,465
Stylist #3
$0
$22,000
$24,000
Nails and massage
$18,000
$20,000
$22,000
Product sales
$9,600
$10,000
$11,000
Total Sales
$166,400
$211,022
$239,975
Direct Cost of Sales
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Sales
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Product Costs
$4,320
$4,300
$4,400
Other
$0
$0
$0
Subtotal Direct Cost of Sales
$4,320
$4,300
$4,400
4.4 Milestones
Sample Milestones topic text. The milestones table and chart show the specific detail about
actual program activities that should be taking place during the year. Each one has its manager,
starting date, ending date, and budget. During the year we will be keeping track of
implementation against plan, with reports on the timely completion of these activities as planned.
Milestones
Milestone
Start Date
End Date
Budget
Manager
Department
Sample Milestones
1/4/2008
1/4/2008
$0
ABC
Department
Finish Business Plan
5/7/2009
6/6/2009
$100
Dude
Boss
Acquire Financing
5/17/2009
7/6/2009
$200
Dudette
Legumers
Ah HA! Event
5/27/2009
6/1/2009
$60
Marianne
Bosses
Ah Merde Alors! Event
6/26/2009
7/1/2009
$250
Marionette
Bouc
émissaire
Grande Opening
7/6/2009
7/11/2009
$500
Gloworm
Nobs
Marketing Program
Starts
6/6/2009
7/1/2009
$1,000
Glower
Marketeers
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Plan vs. Actual Review
11/1/2009
11/8/2009
$0
Galore
Alles
First Break-even Month 3/5/2010
4/4/2010
$0
Bouys
Salers
Hire Employees
2/1/2010
3/3/2010
$150
Gulls
HRM
Upgrade Business Plan
Pro
4/22/2010
4/24/2010
$100
Brass
Bossies
Totals
$2,360
Management Summary
The Imaginary Hair Salon will be organized and managed in a creative and innovative fashion to
generate very high levels of customer satisfaction, and to create a working climate conducive to a
high degree of personal development and economic satisfaction for employees.
Training classes to help improve employee product knowledge and skills will be conducted on a
regular basis. As the business grows, the company will consider offering an employee benefit
package to include health and vacation benefits for everyone.
5.1 Personnel Plan
The personnel plan calls for a receptionist who will greet customers and receive payments for
services and products. There will be five hair stylists, one barber, one nail technician, one
facialist, and a massage therapist. Everyone but the receptionist will be contract workers, and
will be paid a sliding commission scale based on the amount of revenue created. Future plans
include the hiring of a shampoo technician as the business expands. In the first year, assumptions
are that there will only be three hair stylists, a barber, and part time nail, facial, and massage
technician until the business can build a reputation that will attract others to work there.
Personnel Plan
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Owner (Stylist)
$24,000
$25,000
$26,000
Receptionist
$14,400
$15,120
$15,876
Shampoo Tech
$8,000
$12,400
$13,000
Total People
3
3
3
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Total Payroll
$46,400
$52,520
$54,876
Financial Plan
Our goal is to be a profitable business beginning in the first month. The business will not have to
wait long for clients to learn about it since the stylists will already have an existing client base.
To assure the start-up funds lender that the owners are financially stable, a personal financial
statement is enclosed illustrating other sources of income that include interest and dividend
income from investments ($2,840), salary income ($29,658), and commission income ($15,000).
6.1 Important Assumptions
The financials that are enclosed have a number of assumptions:
Revenues will grow at an annual rate of 15%, increasing 20% in November and December due to
a historical jump in revenues at this time of year. We anticipate this increase to stay steady
throughout the following year to account for the normal flow of new clients coming into the
salon. Estimates for sales revenue and growth are intentionally low, while anticipated expenses
are exaggerated to the high side to illustrate a worst case scenario.
We did not use cost of goods sold in our calculations of net service sales, but included all related
recurring expenses, such as payroll and supplies, in the operating expenses area of the profit and
loss table. The only direct costs in the sales forecast are for projected product sales.
Product sales are a minimal part of our market. We are not quite sure how much revenue will be
derived from products, so we took a low-ball approach and estimated sales of $800 a month.
Also in the sales projections table are services such as nails and massages. We are not quite sure
how much revenue these two services will generate. We are certain that in time these services
will be a large part of our revenue, but to err on the conservative side, we estimate revenues from
these services to be only $1,500 a month for the first year.
General Assumptions
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Plan Month
1
2
3
Current Interest Rate
10.00%
10.00%
10.00%
Long-term Interest Rate
10.00%
10.00%
10.00%
Tax Rate
30.00%
30.00%
30.00%
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Other
0
0
0
6.2 Projected Cash Flow
We expect to manage cash flow over the next three years simply by the growth of the cash flow
of the business. The business will generate more than enough cash flow to cover all of its
expenses.
Pro Forma Cash Flow
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Cash Sales
$166,400
$211,022
$239,975
Subtotal Cash from Operations
$166,400
$211,022
$239,975
Sales Tax, VAT, HST/GST Received
$0
$0
$0
New Current Borrowing
$0
$0
$0
New Other Liabilities (interest-free)
$0
$0
$0
New Long-term Liabilities
$0
$0
$0
Sales of Other Current Assets
$0
$0
$0
Cash Received
Cash from Operations
Additional Cash Received
Page 127 of 154
Sales of Long-term Assets
$0
$0
$0
New Investment Received
$0
$0
$0
Subtotal Cash Received
$166,400
$211,022
$239,975
Expenditures
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Cash Spending
$46,400
$52,520
$54,876
Bill Payments
$99,540
$128,730
$147,285
Subtotal Spent on Operations
$145,940
$181,250
$202,161
Sales Tax, VAT, HST/GST Paid Out
$0
$0
$0
Principal Repayment of Current Borrowing
$0
$0
$0
Other Liabilities Principal Repayment
$0
$0
$0
Long-term Liabilities Principal Repayment
$12,000
$12,000
$12,000
Purchase Other Current Assets
$0
$0
$0
Purchase Long-term Assets
$0
$0
$0
Dividends
$0
$0
$0
Subtotal Cash Spent
$157,940
$193,250
$214,161
Net Cash Flow
$8,460
$17,772
$25,814
Cash Balance
$8,960
$26,733
$52,547
Expenditures from Operations
Additional Cash Spent
6.3 Break-even Analysis The break-even analysis shows that Imaginary Hair Salon has a good
balance of fixed costs and sufficient sales strength to remain healthy. This calculation is focused
on service sales, and excludes costs related to product sales. Our conservative forecast shows the
Page 128 of 154
salon just passing the break-even point throughout most of the first year, but we expect actual
sales to be higher.
Break-even Analysis
Monthly Revenue Break-even
$12,995
Assumptions:
Average Percent Variable Cost
3%
Estimated Monthly Fixed Cost
$12,657
6.4 Projected Profit and Loss The following table shows our very conservative profit and loss
projections for the next three years. The table includes the payments for all independently
contracted stylists and technicians, as well for all regularly occurring supply expenses associated
with service sales.
Page 129 of 154
Pro Forma Profit and Loss
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Sales
$166,400
$211,022
$239,975
Direct Cost of Sales
$4,320
$4,300
$4,400
Other Costs of Sales
$0
$0
$0
Total Cost of Sales
$4,320
$4,300
$4,400
Page 130 of 154
Gross Margin
$162,080
$206,722
$235,575
Gross Margin %
97.40%
97.96%
98.17%
Payroll
$46,400
$52,520
$54,876
Marketing/Promotion
$22,800
$24,000
$26,000
Depreciation
$8,146
$8,146
$8,146
Rent
$22,740
$22,740
$22,740
Utilities
$4,200
$4,200
$4,200
Insurance
$1,200
$1,200
$1,200
Payroll Taxes
$0
$0
$0
Independently contracted stylists
$40,400
$55,000
$69,000
Supplies
$6,000
$6,000
$6,000
Other
$0
$0
$0
Total Operating Expenses
$151,886
$173,806
$192,162
Profit Before Interest and Taxes
$10,194
$32,916
$43,413
EBITDA
$18,340
$41,062
$51,559
Interest Expense
$5,542
$4,392
$3,192
Taxes Incurred
$1,396
$8,557
$12,066
Net Profit
$3,257
$19,967
$28,155
Net Profit/Sales
1.96%
9.46%
11.73%
Expenses
Page 131 of 154
6.5 Projected Balance Sheet As shown in the balance sheet, we expect a healthy growth in net
worth.
Pro Forma Balance Sheet
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Cash
$8,960
$26,733
$52,547
Other Current Assets
$600
$600
$600
Total Current Assets
$9,560
$27,333
$53,147
Long-term Assets
$59,500
$59,500
$59,500
Accumulated Depreciation
$8,146
$16,292
$24,438
Total Long-term Assets
$51,354
$43,208
$35,062
Total Assets
$60,914
$70,541
$88,209
Liabilities and Capital
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Accounts Payable
$9,057
$10,717
$12,230
Current Borrowing
$0
$0
$0
Other Current Liabilities
$0
$0
$0
Subtotal Current Liabilities
$9,057
$10,717
$12,230
Long-term Liabilities
$49,917
$37,917
$25,917
Assets
Current Assets
Long-term Assets
Current Liabilities
Page 132 of 154
Total Liabilities
$58,974
$48,634
$38,147
Paid-in Capital
$500
$500
$500
Retained Earnings
($1,817)
$1,440
$21,407
Earnings
$3,257
$19,967
$28,155
Total Capital
$1,940
$21,907
$50,062
Total Liabilities and Capital
$60,914
$70,541
$88,209
Net Worth
$1,940
$21,907
$50,062
6.6 Business Ratios
Business ratios for the years of this plan are shown below. Industry profile ratios based on the
Standard Industrial Classification (SIC) Index code 7231, Beauty Shops, are shown for
comparison.
Ratio Analysis
Year 1
Year 2
Year 3
Sales Growth
0.00%
26.82%
13.72%
Industry
Profile
7.35%
Percent of Total Assets
Other Current Assets
Total Current Assets
Long-term Assets
Total Assets
0.98%
15.69%
84.31%
100.00%
0.85%
38.75%
61.25%
100.00%
0.68%
60.25%
39.75%
100.00%
50.11%
64.74%
35.26%
100.00%
Current Liabilities
Long-term Liabilities
Total Liabilities
Net Worth
14.87%
81.95%
96.82%
3.18%
15.19%
53.75%
68.94%
31.06%
13.86%
29.38%
43.25%
56.75%
21.71%
25.39%
47.10%
52.90%
Percent of Sales
Sales
Gross Margin
Selling, General & Administrative
100.00%
97.40%
95.45%
100.00%
97.96%
88.50%
100.00%
98.17%
86.43%
100.00%
100.00%
67.01%
Page 133 of 154
Personnel Plan
Expenses
Advertising Expenses
Profit Before Interest and Taxes
4.90%
6.13%
3.86%
15.60%
3.39%
18.09%
2.18%
4.59%
Main Ratios
Current
Quick
Total Debt to Total Assets
Pre-tax Return on Net Worth
Pre-tax Return on Assets
1.06
1.06
96.82%
239.86%
7.64%
2.55
2.55
68.94%
130.21%
40.44%
4.35
4.35
43.25%
80.34%
45.60%
1.97
1.46
53.38%
8.92%
19.14%
Year 1
1.96%
167.90%
Year 1
Year 2
9.46%
91.15%
Year 2
Year 3
11.73%
56.24%
Year 3
Activity Ratios
Accounts Payable Turnover
Payment Days
Total Asset Turnover
11.99
27
2.73
12.17
28
2.99
12.17
28
2.72
n.a
n.a
n.a
Debt Ratios
Debt to Net Worth
Current Liab. to Liab.
30.41
0.15
2.22
0.22
0.76
0.32
n.a
n.a
Liquidity Ratios
Net Working Capital
Interest Coverage
$503
1.84
$16,616
7.50
$40,917
13.60
n.a
n.a
Additional Ratios
Assets to Sales
Current Debt/Total Assets
Acid Test
Sales/Net Worth
Dividend Payout
0.37
15%
1.06
85.79
0.00
0.33
15%
2.55
9.63
0.00
0.37
14%
4.35
4.79
0.00
n.a
n.a
n.a
n.a
n.a
Additional Ratios
Net Profit Margin
Return on Equity
n.a
n.a
Industry
Profile
Page 134 of 154
Month Month Month Month Month Month Month Month Month Month M
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
1
Owner
(Stylist)
0% $2,000 $2,000 $2,000 $2,000 $2,000 $2,000 $2,000 $2,000 $2,000 $2,000 $
Receptionist 0% $1,200 $1,200 $1,200 $1,200 $1,200 $1,200 $1,200 $1,200 $1,200 $1,200 $
Shampoo
Tech
0% $0
$0
$0
$0
$1,000 $1,000 $1,000 $1,000 $1,000 $1,000 $
2
2
2
3
Total
People
2
3
3
3
3
3
3
Total
Payroll
$3,200 $3,200 $3,200 $3,200 $4,200 $4,200 $4,200 $4,200 $4,200 $4,200 $
Sales
Forecast
Month
1
Month
2
Month
3
Month
4
Month
5
Month
6
Month
7
Month
8
Month
9
M
10
Page 135 of 154
Sales
Owner
0% $3,600
$3,600
$3,600
$3,600
$4,400
$4,400
$4,400
$4,400
$4,400
$4
Stylist
#1
Barber
#1
Stylist
#2
Stylist
#3
Nails
and
massage
Product
sales
Total
Sales
0% $3,600
$3,600
$3,600
$3,600
$4,400
$4,400
$4,400
$4,400
$4,400
$4
0% $1,200
$1,200
$1,200
$1,200
$1,500
$1,500
$1,500
$1,500
$1,500
$1
0% $1,700
$1,700
$1,700
$1,700
$2,000
$2,000
$2,000
$2,000
$2,000
$2
0% $0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
0% $1,500
$1,500
$1,500
$1,500
$1,500
$1,500
$1,500
$1,500
$1,500
$1
0% $800
$800
$800
$800
$800
$800
$800
$800
$800
$8
Direct
Cost of
Sales
Product
Costs
Other
Month
1
Month
2
Month
3
Month
4
Month
5
Month
6
Month
7
Month
8
Month
9
M
10
$360
$360
$360
$360
$360
$360
$360
$360
$360
$3
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
Subtotal
Direct
Cost of
Sales
$360
$360
$360
$360
$360
$360
$360
$360
$360
$3
$12,400 $12,400 $12,400 $12,400 $14,600 $14,600 $14,600 $14,600 $14,600 $1
Pro Forma Profit and Loss
Sales
Direct Cost of Sales
Other Costs of Sales
Total Cost of Sales
Month
1
$12,400
$360
$0
$360
Month
2
$12,400
$360
$0
$360
Month
3
$12,400
$360
$0
$360
Month
4
$12,400
$360
$0
$360
Month
5
$14,600
$360
$0
$360
Month
6
$14,600
$360
$0
$360
Month
7
$14,600
$360
$0
$360
Month
8
$14,600
$360
$0
$360
Page 136 of 154
$12,040 $12,040 $12,040 $12,040 $14,240 $14,240 $14,240 $14,240
97.10% 97.10% 97.10% 97.10% 97.53% 97.53% 97.53% 97.53%
Gross Margin
Gross Margin %
Expenses
$3,200
Payroll
$1,900
Marketing/Promotion
$633
Depreciation
$1,895
Rent
$350
Utilities
$100
Insurance
15% $0
Payroll Taxes
$2,700
Independently
contracted stylists
15% $500
Supplies
$0
Other
$3,200
$1,900
$683
$1,895
$350
$100
$0
$2,700
$3,200
$1,900
$683
$1,895
$350
$100
$0
$2,700
$3,200
$1,900
$683
$1,895
$350
$100
$0
$2,700
$4,200
$1,900
$683
$1,895
$350
$100
$0
$3,700
$4,200
$1,900
$683
$1,895
$350
$100
$0
$3,700
$4,200
$1,900
$683
$1,895
$350
$100
$0
$3,700
$4,200
$1,900
$683
$1,895
$350
$100
$0
$3,700
$500
$0
$500
$0
$500
$0
$500
$0
$500
$0
$500
$0
$500
$0
Total Operating
Expenses
$11,278 $11,328 $11,328 $11,328 $13,328 $13,328 $13,328 $13,328
Profit Before Interest
and Taxes
EBITDA
Interest Expense
Taxes Incurred
$762
$712
$712
$712
$912
$912
$912
$912
$1,395
$508
$76
$1,395
$499
$64
$1,395
$491
$66
$1,395
$483
$69
$1,595
$474
$131
$1,595
$466
$134
$1,595
$458
$136
$1,595
$449
$139
Net Profit
Net Profit/Sales
Pro Forma Cash Flow
$178
1.44%
$149
1.20%
$155
1.25%
$161
1.29%
$306
2.10%
$312
2.14%
$318
2.18%
$324
2.22%
Month
1
Month
2
Month
3
Month
4
Month
5
Month
6
Month
7
Month
8
Mon
9
Cash
Received
Cash from
Operations
Cash Sales
Subtotal
Cash from
Operations
$12,400 $12,400 $12,400 $12,400 $14,600 $14,600 $14,600 $14,600 $14,
$12,400 $12,400 $12,400 $12,400 $14,600 $14,600 $14,600 $14,600 $14,
Page 137 of 154
Additional
Cash
Received
0.00% $0
Sales Tax,
VAT,
HST/GST
Received
$0
New Current
Borrowing
$0
New Other
Liabilities
(interestfree)
$0
New Longterm
Liabilities
$0
Sales of
Other
Current
Assets
$0
Sales of
Long-term
Assets
$0
New
Investment
Received
$12,400
Subtotal
Cash
Received
Expenditures
Expenditures
from
Operations
Cash
Spending
Bill
Payments
Subtotal
Spent on
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$12,400 $12,400 $12,400 $14,600 $14,600 $14,600 $14,600 $14,
Month
1
Month
2
Month
3
Month
4
Month
5
Month
6
Month
7
Month
8
Mon
9
$3,200
$3,200
$3,200
$3,200
$4,200
$4,200
$4,200
$4,200
$4,2
$280
$8,388
$8,368
$8,362
$8,392
$9,410
$9,405
$9,399
$9,3
$3,480
$11,588 $11,568 $11,562 $12,592 $13,610 $13,605 $13,599 $13,
Page 138 of 154
Operations
Additional
Cash Spent
Sales Tax,
VAT,
HST/GST
Paid Out
Principal
Repayment
of Current
Borrowing
Other
Liabilities
Principal
Repayment
Long-term
Liabilities
Principal
Repayment
Purchase
Other
Current
Assets
Purchase
Long-term
Assets
Dividends
Subtotal
Cash Spent
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$1,000
$1,000
$1,000
$1,000
$1,000
$1,000
$1,000
$1,000
$1,0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$4,480
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$12,588 $12,568 $12,562 $13,592 $14,610 $14,605 $14,599 $14,
$7,920
Net Cash
Flow
$8,420
Cash
Balance
Pro Forma Balance Sheet
Month
1
Assets
Starting
Balances
($188)
($168)
($162)
$1,008
($10)
($5)
$1
$7
$8,232
$8,064
$7,902
$8,911
$8,900
$8,896
$8,897
$8,9
Month
2
Month
3
Month
4
Month
5
Month
6
Month
7
Month
8
Page 139 of 154
Current
Assets
Cash
Other
Current
Assets
Total
Current
Assets
$500
$600
$8,420
$600
$8,232
$600
$8,064
$600
$7,902
$600
$8,911
$600
$8,900
$600
$8,896
$600
$8,897
$600
$1,100
$9,020
$8,832
$8,664
$8,502
$9,511
$9,500
$9,496
$9,497
$59,500
$59,500
$59,500
$59,500
$59,500
$59,500
$59,500
$59,500
$59,500
$0
$633
$1,316
$1,999
$2,682
$3,365
$4,048
$4,731
$5,414
$59,500
$58,867
$58,184
$57,501
$56,818
$56,135
$55,452
$54,769
$54,086
$60,600
$67,887
$67,016
$66,165
$65,320
$65,646
$64,952
$64,265
$63,583
Month
1
Month
2
Month
3
Month
4
Month
5
Month
6
Month
7
Month
8
$0
$8,109
$8,089
$8,084
$8,078
$9,097
$9,091
$9,086
$9,080
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$0
$8,109
$8,089
$8,084
$8,078
$9,097
$9,091
$9,086
$9,080
Long-term
Liabilities
Total
Liabilities
$61,917
$60,917
$59,917
$58,917
$57,917
$56,917
$55,917
$54,917
$53,917
$61,917
$69,026
$68,006
$67,001
$65,995
$66,014
$65,008
$64,003
$62,997
Paid-in
$500
$500
$500
$500
$500
$500
$500
$500
$500
Long-term
Assets
Long-term
Assets
Accumulated
Depreciation
Total Longterm Assets
Total Assets
Liabilities
and Capital
Current
Liabilities
Accounts
Payable
Current
Borrowing
Other
Current
Liabilities
Subtotal
Current
Liabilities
Page 140 of 154
Capital
Retained
Earnings
Earnings
Total
Capital
Total
Liabilities
and Capital
Net Worth
($1,817)
($1,817) ($1,817) ($1,817) ($1,817) ($1,817) ($1,817) ($1,817) ($1,817)
$0
($1,317)
$178
$327
($1,139) ($990)
$482
($835)
$642
($675)
$949
($368)
$1,261
($56)
$1,579
$262
$1,903
$586
$60,600
$67,887
$66,165
$65,320
$65,646
$64,952
$64,265
$63,583
($1,317)
($1,139) ($990)
($835)
($675)
($368)
($56)
$262
$586
$67,016
Salon or Spa Business Location:
Location, location, location! For most hair salons, beauty salons and day spas, choosing a
location will be one of the most important elements that will lead you down the path toward
building a successful business. Of course, ultimately your ability to provide excellent services
and have high customer satisfaction will be the key to your success. But having a good location
will set you up to expose your business to new customers. If you are considering starting a small
one or two chair salon, or home massage business, you may be able to do so with a 300-500
square foot room in your home, but you must also pay attention to commercial / residential
zoning restrictions. For most hair, nail and beauty salons, and day spas, you will require 10002000 square feet or more. If you can find a location with parking available and a lot of daily foot
traffic and car traffic, that is optimal. Strip malls and shopping malls are good because of the
large amount of foot traffic. If you can find a smaller place that will save you rent in the
beginning, with possibility for expansion as your business grows, that is also a plus. Retail rental
rates vary widely across the country. For smaller cities, rent in commercial areas may be around
$1.00 per square foot, but in larger metropolitan areas, rent may run as high as $2.50 per sq. ft. or
even more in premium big city business areas.
Building Improvements, Fixtures and Design:
Depending on how recently the business location was built, and how well it has been kept, you
may need to spend hundreds, to several thousand dollars to improve the building and utilities. If
you are offering shampoos and conditioning, you will probably need to install plumbing for
washing basins. Costs of building improvements aside, you should probably set aside between
$500 and $3000 for interior layout and design, flooring, painting, window fixtures, indoor and
outdoor signage and general decorations.
Salon and Spa Equipment:
The equipment you need to buy depends on the services you will offer.
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Administrative Equipment:
In addition to the specific salon and spa equipment you will need some basic administrative
equipment. You will probably need at least one cash register and computer, phones, basic office
supplies, desks, and furniture as appropriate.
Starting a Salon Business or Spa Business (Part 1)
The Hair Salon, Nail Salon, Beauty Salon and Day Spa Business
The past decade has seen tremendous growth in the salon and spa business. Some of the latest
census reports on the salon and spa service industry posted figures of $40 Billion annually. That
figure excludes the sale of beauty products which is at least another $10 billion annually. Hair
salons continue to experience moderate growth while high end beauty salons and day spas
experienced constant spikes in revenue.
Starting a Salon or Spa Business
A basic hair salon can be started with light to moderate capitalization. More full service beauty
salons and day spas may require more funding to get started. The first step in starting a salon or
spa business is to define the extent of services and products that will be offered. Here are some
of the most common services and products offered:
Salon and Spa Services:
Hair Salon Business Services:
•Haircuts, styling and trims.
•Hair coloring and highlights
•Hair and scalp treatments.
•Hair shampoo and conditioning.
•Hair relaxers and perms.
•Hair curling, reconstructing and waving
Nail Salon Business Services:
•Manicures.
•Pedicures.
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•Nail polish.
•Nail repair and sculpting.
•Hand conditioning.
Day Spa and Beauty Business Services:
•Body scrubs.
•Body wrapping and herbal wraps.
•Massage and aromatherapy.
•Hot stone therapy.
•Acupuncture and Reflexology.
•Derma abrasion.
•Anti-aging.
•Facials.
•Makeup and makeovers.
•Skin cleansing and care.
•Body waxing.
•Polishing, buffing and bronzing.
•Tanning.
Salon and Spa Products:
Hair Salon Products:
•Shampoos.
•Conditioners.
•Extra hair treatment.
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•Pre-styling products.
•Hair styling products.
•Hair finishes.
•Brushes and hair tools.
Skin Care, Nail and Beauty Products:
•Face skin care products.
•Body skin care products.
•Makeup.
•Makeup tools.
•Nail polish products.
•Nail finish products.
•Nail tools.
•Perfumes.
•Bed and bath products.
Keys to Running a Successful Salon or Spa Business (Part 2)
Salon Customer Service and Satisfaction is the Key
The success of your salon or day spa will be directly linked to your ability to satisfy your
customers. There is no better way to retain existing customers than to have them leave happy on
every visit. And word-of-mouth can be an extremely effective form of organically marketing
your salon or spa. Customer service starts with a courteous and professionally trained staff.
Create a Comfortable, Clean and Safe Atmosphere for your Salon or Spa
From the point that customers enter your salon or spa establishment to the point they exit they
should be presented with an environment that is clean, safe, comfortable and relaxing. Salon and
Spa customers expect cleanliness. Make sure that floors are swept in between customers. Make
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sure towels, trimmers and other equipment are washed and fresh for new customers. Install
comfortable couches and furniture in waiting areas. Offer magazines and/or coffee table books
for reading. Anything you can do to make your salon or spa more comfortable and relaxing will
help retain customers and gain new ones.
Salon and Spa Convenience:
One of the advantages to opening a more full service beauty salon is that it will be more
convenient to your customers. If you offer hair, nail, beauty and spa services, and then you
present a one-stop solution for all your customers beauty needs. A client can schedule several
services in one visit, rather than having to go to several establishments at different times. Also,
offering a selection of salon and spa products to your clients is a convenience for them, and
generates revenue for you.
Salon Marketing and Spa Marketing (Part 3)
Marketing your salon or spa is as important to your business success as having a
professional staff and competitive pricing!
Every hair salon or spa owner knows that the most important element in retaining customers in
their business is having a quality staff that ensures customer satisfaction on each and every visit.
But retaining your existing customer base is not enough if you wish to grow your business. You
have to market your salon or spa to new customers!
Salon and Spa Marketing Development:
1. Basic Branding of Your Salon or Spa:
Most likely you've already done some basic branding for your salon or spa:

Create a compelling name for your salon or spa business

Create a logo and 'style guide' for your salon. Having a nice quality logo and style
guide for your salon is an important element of branding your salon's image in the public
mind. Do you have a quality logo that represents the level of professionalism offered by
your salon or spa? Does your color scheme invoke the correct type of visceral response in
potential customer's minds, or is it a rainbow of randomness?

Create a slogan (or series of slogans) that defines the qualities your business has that
may set it apart from the competition. Even if you don't publically advertise or use a
slogan, its a good idea for you to develop one for internal use and focus. This might be
part of a 'mission statement'. What are the key attributes of your business that set it apart
from other similar businesses?
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
Install attractive signage on your building and around your business location. Try to put
yourself in a third person perspective and drive-by or walk-by your location. Does your
business stand out, or does it blend into the surroundings? Do you have prominent, clear
signage that identifies your core business as a salon or spa? If possible, consider posting
additional permanent or temporary signage near your location to catch more eyes.
2. Create and Promote a Website for Your Salon or Spa:
Latest U.S. census figures show that over 60% of U.S. households are now 'internet-connected',
and that percentage is expected to continue to rise over coming years. The percentage is even
higher for younger households and households with over $50k annual income. More and more
consumers are turning to the internet to find products and services, and locate businesses in their
area. Creating and promoting a website for your salon or spa should be a key element of your
business marketing strategy if you want to be competitive now and in coming years.

Create a Website for Your Salon or Spa

Promote your Website through Email Marketing

Promote your Website through Organic Search Engine Optimization (SEO)
3. Increase your Salon or Spa Client Base through Regular Advertising Methods:
Here are some standard ways to advertise your salon. Generally you pay for the estimated
impressions (pay-per-impression) your advertisement will get. This 'pay-per-impression' rate is
sometimes listed as a 'CPM' - cost per 1,000 impressions. You can compare different advertising
costs based on CPM, but you also need to consider exactly how targeted those impressions are.
Web advertising also offers pay-per-click (pay-per-referral) advertising, where you only pay for
the customers who express an interest in your services by clicking through to your website.

Pay-Per-Click Local/Regional Web Advertising for your Salon or Spa
Now that Google and Yahoo support local targeted pay-per-click advertising, it’s easy to
direct new local customers to your website and into your salon! And the Return on
Investment (ROI) for Pay-Per-Click advertising is among the best ROIs you'll find in any
advertising medium. Research shows that the ROI on Pay-Per-Click advertising can be as
much as ten times as high as traditional yellow page advertising, print, radio or TV
advertising. The difference in Pay-Per-Click advertising is that you choose the specific
keywords that your want to show up for, in your specific area, and you get extremely
targeted traffic viewing your ads. Plus, Pay-Per-Click advertising is inherently an 'active'
advertising method rather than 'passive'. You don't pay for the ad unless the potential
customer finds your ad and takes the action to click through to your website.
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
Direct Mail Advertising for your Salon or Spa
Direct mail advertising is a great way to stay in touch with existing customers, and has
potential to bring in new customers. One idea is to find other local businesses that may
share a similar client base and do a cross promotion mailing. For example, if you have a
standard hair salon, consider partnering with a day spa, sun tanning spa, or massage
therapist.

Yellow Page Advertising for your Salon or Spa
Traditional yellow page advertising should be a part of your basic marketing plan, but
many salons are turning away from expensive yellow page ads and focusing on higher
ROI advertising. Compare your yellow page ad with your competition, and analyze the
message of your yellow page ad. Are you wasting space? Are you conveying your key
slogan / key quality of your salon that sets you apart from the competition?

Radio or TV Advertising for your Salon or Spa
Radio and TV advertising is probably not appropriate for single location salons or spas,
but if you have several locations within a region, consider regional radio or TV ads. Be
sure to track referrals from radio or TV so you can analyze the return on investment
(ROI) and compare to your other advertising mediums.
4. Increase your Salon or Spa Client Base through Creative Advertising Methods:
 Develop an Incentive System for your Customers to Refer their Friends and Family

Donate Gift Certificates / Coupons to a Charity Organization
5. Extended Branding of your Salon or Spa:
Branding your salon or spa is a crucial part of your business development for medium to long
term success. So, what does branding really mean? Branding is the proprietary visual, emotional,
and rational image associated with your company. Branding is communicating your businesses
core attributes and qualities, and creating a simple but visceral association of those qualities in
the minds of your potential customers.
The name of your salon or spa is the first step. Creating a slogan that communicates the qualities
of your business might be a second means of branding. Does your spa offer premium styling and
coloring services that costs a bit more for the quality, or does your salon offer inexpensive, fast
service. The purpose of having people remember the brand name and have positive associations
with that brand is to make their selection easier and enhance the value and satisfaction they get.
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Salon Website and Spa Website Marketing
(Part 4)
If you're reading this, no doubt you have . . . or are in the process . . . of creating your salon's
very own web site.
Did you know that creating . . . and marketing . . . your web site costs much less than running?
• A print ad campaign
• A radio advertising campaign
• A television advertising campaign
Direct mail and television marketing campaigns present their own unique problems. (Think
about all that junk mail that ends up in your circular file - trash bin! How long did you remain on
the phone when that last telemarketer called you?)
So, how do you market your salon's web site? Shamelessly! Laugh, joke, whisper, and shout.
Tell EVERYBODY! If you aren't excited, proud and energized about your web site, no one else
will be.
How do you get the word out? Publish your web site's address EVERYWHERE! Customers and
clients need to know about your site. Below is a list of where you can publicize your web site at
little or no cost.
Register your web site URL with the various search engines.
Collect the email addresses of all of your clients by asking for it when they make appointments,
buy merchandise, or pay for services. A friendly question "May I have your email address?" can
go a long way to building your online marketing list. All email addresses you collect should be
entered into the Guestbook page of your web site so that you may include them in future
mailings.
If you have signed up for the appointment request and/or gift certificate purchasing options, be
sure to mention these powerful features to all your clients. Give a small reward to those that use
your online features. A free sample, often available from your distributors, given to anyone
booking an appointment online is a no cost promotional tool that can work wonders. A small
purchase discount for anyone buying a gift certificate or requesting an appointment online might
be just the incentive to encourage an additional purchase.
When confirming appointments booked online....offer a "virtual coupon" to the client. You know
what they are having done...why not tell them since they are getting their hair styled... they will
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get 10% off a styling gel purchase or some similar promotion. This gives a great incentive for
booking those appointments online.
Printed Materials - Most of your printed material has to do with the business routine. Why not
use these materials to your advantage and advertise your web site?
Salon and Stylists Business Cards
Stationery and Letterhead
Envelopes
Fax Cover Sheet
Checks
Invoices
Brochures
Pamphlets
Flyers
Catalogs
Thank You Notes
Note Cards
Note Pads
Message Pads
Appointment Cards
Name Tags
Rubber Stamps
Labels
Postage Meter
Receipt Tape
Price Tags
Shopping Bags
Packing Materials
Other printed material - Although this material is printed for special occasions, they should
contain your salon web address as a reminder to clients.
Calendars
Bookmarks
Placemats
Paper cups
Balloons
Office Supplies - They're visible, and they're sitting in your salon reception area . . . and in
constant view of clients. Why not put them to good use advertising your site?
Pens and pencils
Mouse pads
Paperclip holders
Letter opener
Specialty Items - These are those special items that you might create to celebrate your salon's
anniversary or other milestones. Or, perhaps some of these items are given to preferred clients.
Let them serve as a reminder of your salon's web address!
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Magnets
Mugs
Clothing
Hopefully, you've been inspired and can add even more opportunities to promote your web site
than are listed here.
Beauty Salon Information and Website Building Resources
Definition of a Beauty Salon
A beauty salon is an establishment that offers a variety of cosmetic treatments and cosmetic
services for men and women. Beauty salons may offer a variety of services including
professional hair cutting and styling, manicures and pedicures, and often cosmetics, makeup and
makeovers.
Licensing and employment information for Beauty Salons
Beauty salons employ cosmetologists specializing in general beautification techniques.
Cosmetology licensing requirements vary from state to state, and depending on which specific
type of license is desired; general cosmetologist, hair stylist, esthetician, manicurist, barber,
electrologist, or other. For more information on beauty salon jobs, hiring, recruiting and
employment, check online.
Services typically offered by Beauty Salons
A beauty salon may just offer hair care & hair styling services, or nail services, manicures and
pedicures. Most businesses classified as beauty salons offer a combination of hair styling and
nail services. In addition, beauty salons may offer skin care services performed by estheticians,
including facials, exfoliating scrubs and anti-aging techniques. Many beauty salons also offer
cosmetic services such as makeup application, eye beautification, and general makeovers and
cosmetic instruction.
Products used by or offered by Beauty Salons
Some beauty salons also include retail sales of beauty products for consumers. Hair care and
styling products may include shampoos, conditioners, styling gels, sprays, coloring products, and
tools used for hair care. Skin care products may include lotions, exfoliants, anti-acne products,
tanning and bronzing products, and herbal or chemical solutions. Nail care products may include
nail polish, acrylic nails, and nail care tools. General cosmetic products may include makeup and
eye beautification products.
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Hair Salon Information and Website Building Resources
Definition of a Hair Salon
A hair salon is an establishment that offers professional hair styling services for men and women.
Hair salons offer hair services including professional hair styling and hair texturing. Many hair
salons also offer hair coloring, highlights, head and scalp treatments and formal styling.
Licensing and employment information for Hair Salons
Hair salons employ cosmetologists specializing in hair services such as basic haircuts, hair
styling, highlights, hair coloring, and hair texturing techniques. Hair stylist licensing
requirements vary from state to state. For more information on hair salon and hair stylist jobs,
hiring, recruiting and employment, check out SalonEmployment.com. Hair Salon jobs, hiring
and recruiting.
Services typically offered by Hair Salons
Hair salons specialize in hair services such as basic haircuts, hair styling, highlights, hair
coloring, and hair texturing techniques. Most hair salons also offer hair cleansing such as
shampoo and conditioning and specialized treatments for damaged hair. Businesses that just
offer basic haircuts and grooming services are generally categorized as barber shops, although
there is a fine line between what constitutes professional hair styling, and basic hair cutting.
Some hair salons also offer formal styling services for special occasions such as weddings and
other events.
Products used by or offered by Hair Salons
Some hair salons also include retail sales of hair products for consumers. Hair care and styling
products may include shampoos, conditioners, styling gels, sprays, special hair treatments, hair
coloring and highlighting products, and tools used for hair care.
Nail Salon Information and Website Building Resources
Definition of a Nail Salon
A nail salon is an establishment that offers nail beautification services for men and women. Nail
salons offer services for hands and feet, including manicures, pedicures, nail polish application,
nail repair, and hand and foot treatments.
Licensing and employment information for Nail Salons
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Nail salons employ cosmetologists, estheticians and nail technicians specializing in manicures
and pedicures. Nail salon licensing requirements vary from state to state, and depending on
which specific type of license is desired; general cosmetologist, esthetician, nail technician, or
other.
Services typically offered by Nail Salons
Most nail salons offer a full suite of manicure nail services including nail polish, acrylic nails,
and nail repair. Most nail salons also offer pedicures and foot beautification treatments. Many
nail salons offer waxing hair removal services for unwanted facial hair, back hair, bikini hair or
other areas. Nail salons that also offer extended skin treatments such as facials are generally
classified as day spas as well. Nail salons generally welcome walk in clients, but you may want
to schedule an appointment as well.
Products used by or offered by Nail Salons
Most nail salons also offer retail sales of nail beautification and nail care products for consumers.
Nail care and nail beautification products may include nail polish, acrylic nails, nail polish
remover, waxing products, and nail care tools such as nail clippers and nail files.
Day Spa Information and Website Building Resources
Definition of a Day Spa
A day spa is an establishment that offers a variety of skin care services and cosmetic services.
Day spas offer a variety of services for skin, body and nail care. Most day spas offer facials,
manicures, pedicures and other hand, foot, and skin treatments. Often day spas will also include
massage services.
Licensing and employment information for Day Spas
Day spas employ estheticians specializing in skin care and skin beautification services such as
facials, exfoliation, and anti-aging treatments. Day spa licensing requirements vary from state to
state, and depending on which specific type of license is desired; esthetician,
manicurist/pedicurist, electrologist, or other spa specialization. For more information on day spa
jobs, hiring, recruiting and employment, check online.
Services typically offered by Day Spas
Day spas specialize in skin care and skin beautification services such as facials, exfoliation, and
anti-aging treatments. Most businesses classified as day spas also offer nail services such as
manicures, pedicures and other hand and foot treatments. Many day spas offer relaxation
services like aromatherapy and varieties of massage, including classic Swedish massage, deep
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tissue massage or muscle therapy. Some day spas offer body and health services too - such as
body wraps, body immersion, mud baths or hydrotherapy. Day spas usually offer services
individually, or in package deals with several services.
Products used by or offered by Day Spas
Some day spas also include retail sales of beauty products for consumers. Skin care products
may include lotions, exfoliants, anti-acne products, tanning and bronzing products, and herbal or
chemical solutions. Nail care products may include nail polish, acrylic nails, and nail care tools.
Salon Recruiting and Human Resources (Part 5)
THE QUESTION: HOW DO YOU FIND THAT "PERFECT EMPLOYEE"?
This is a question that virtually every salon and spa has asked time and time again.
THE ANSWER: WHEREVER THEY ARE!
They graduate from an academy, leave another employer or re-enter the workforce, and one of
the first places they look is THE INTERNET!
This new medium is perhaps the first destination for job seekers in virtually every industry. The
Internet is the "virtual job fair" matching employers and employees with no restrictions of time
and distance.
Most of the current graduates from beauty academies throughout the US are members of "The
Internet Generation". They are used to logging on to the web and doing research, checking email,
and chatting with friends. The newspaper with its expensive classified ads and limited
distribution is not the first place your future employees will look when they are ready for the job
market. They fire up their laptops and let their mouse do the work.
Don't limit your search for great people to your local newspapers. We have found that over 60%
of job seekers are willing to relocate for the right position. You just have to reach out to them
using the Internet.
For a fraction of the cost of running classified ads or using a recruiter, you can place job listings,
and review the detailed profiles of thousands of registered job seekers online.
Branding is communicating your businesses core attributes and qualities, and creating a simple
but visceral association of those qualities in the minds of your potent
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Click Here To Take Test Now
1. An international system is used to identify the level of darkness of your hair, 1 being the
darkest (black) and 10 being the lightest (blonde)._____
2. The color wheel is a universal chart which shows how all colors are created from just three
basic (primary) colors._____
3. Minerals from water, chlorine from swimming pools, and build-up from styling products can
all impede the haircolor formula's ability to penetrate effectively._____
4. Because bleach leaves the hair in a raw-pigment state which is less-than-attractive, you need
to add back pigments to create a 'natural' look._____
5. A color gloss can liven up a dull blonde or brunette shade._____
6. Semi-permanent hair color is a mixture of oxidative and direct dyes.______
7. A color gloss can liven up a dull blonde or brunette shade.______
8. Hair needs to be pre-lightened in order to get a bright, impactful color._______
9. For very fair skin, a touch of gold in your blonde shade can help to warm up your skin
tone._____
10. Foiling hair is a hair coloring technique used to separate sections, preventing different color
formulas from mixing together._____
11. Bleaching hair effectively strips what appears to be natural" hair color, exposing the
underlying pigment lurking beneath the surface._____
12. Writing a Salon Business Plan is one of the first things you should do if you are planning on
starting your own Salon business._____
13. The first part of your Salon Business Plan System should include how you will run the day to
day operations of your Salon Business._____
14. The success of your salon or day spa will be directly linked to your ability to satisfy your
customers. _____
15. A basic hair salon can be started with light to moderate capitalization._____
16. Having a nice quality logo & style guide for your salon is an important element of branding
your salon's image in the public mind._____
17. Creating and promoting a website for your salon or spa should be a key element of your
business marketing strategy if you want to be competitive now and in coming years._____
18. After practitioners graduate from an academy, leave another employer or re-enter the
workforce, one of the first places they look for employ-ment is the Internet._____
19. The first step in starting a salon or spa business is to define the extent of services and
products that will be offered._____
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20. From the point that customers enter your salon or spa establishment to the point they exit
they should be presented with an environment that is clean, safe, comfortable and relaxing._____