Here - UD.net

Transcription

Here - UD.net

NNEP's "50 TIPS TO SUCCESS"
Hosted by:
Turn Page Here -->
EMBROIDERY MALL
©2000Universal Design,Inc.
http://www.ud.net/embroiderymall/event8/50tips/cover.html [10/16/2000 8:56:15 AM]
<-- Cover
©2000
This booklet cannot be distributed without the
written persmission
Of the author: NNEP
and the publisher: Universal Design, Inc.
P.O.Box 278
Louisville, KY 40201-0278
EMBROIDERY MALL
http://www.ud.net/embroiderymall/event8/50tips/cover2.html [10/16/2000 8:58:05 AM]
Turn Page Here -->
The following booklet "50 TIPS FOR SUCCESS" was developed for use
during the online game at the EmbroideryMall.com, which was sponsored by
NNEP. After the game, the booklet was such a success, that we decided to
make it available for everyone, even those that did not play the game.
This booklet, and the "50 TIPS FOR SUCCESS" event, were created to
provide you with information that you can keep on hand to help you build your
business.
The National Network of Embroidery Professionals was founded and is
operated by experienced embroiderers. Members receive assistance and
savings opportunities from a wide variety of sources. You can save time and
save money as a member. Members can ask questions, request sourcing
assistance, save on business insurance, have a sounding board for new ideas
and much more.
Our goal is to serve as "your resource for success!"
Members qualify for savings from over 125 supplier discounts. Savings such as
case pricing on blank goods, savings on thread and backing, savings on
digitizing and savings on stock designs. You too can take advantage of these
opportunities as a member.
For more information about the Network, visit our website www.NNEP.net
or call 800-866-7396.
<-- Copyright
Table of Contents -->
http://www.ud.net/embroiderymall/event8/50tips/intro.html [10/16/2000 8:58:22 AM]
Cover
Overview
Chapter 1: Hooping and Backing
01
02
03
04
05
06
07
08
09
10
11
12
What is the best height for hooping?
How can I make sure that I am hooping things straight?
What is the best way to embroider on outerwear?
Is there a way to prevent oil spatters just after oiling the sewing heads?
How can I make designs sew out better on knits?
Suggestions for removing backing?
What is the best way to back a sweatshirt for embroidery?
Heat Press and Caps?
Do I need a hooping device?
What is the best way to remove cutaway backing?
What are hoop burns and how can they be removed?
How can I hoop stretchy fabric such as lycra?
Chapter 2: Digitzing Tips to Ponder
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
Suggestions for digitizing efficiency?
Suggestions for leather?
What is photo stitching?
How can I get a full front design without huge stitch counts?
How can we get the look of full coverage without the cost of solid fill
embroidery?
How can I digitize a design for more than one surface efficiently?
How can I learn how to guestimate stitch counts for designs?
http://www.ud.net/embroiderymall/event8/50tips/toc.html (1 of 3) [10/16/2000 8:58:38 AM]
20
21
22
23
24
25
Any suggestions for working with pique?
How can I get dimensional embroidery without using the foam?
How can I keep wide column stitches from unraveling?
Closest point embroidery?
How can I do a better job with trims between letters?
What is a lock stitch and when is it used?
Chapter 3: Info, Tips and Tricks for the Production Area
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
Special Effects Ideas?
How do you get accurate placement for appliques?
What suggestions do you have for making unusual appliques?
Any suggestions for taming jacket sleeves on a multi-head machine?
How many stitches per cone of thread?
Is ear protection necessary?
How often and when should the machine be oiled?
How do you embroider on ties?
What are the different bobbin sizes?
How can I fix looping?
How can I keep thread from sliding off some of my cones?
How can I get metallic thread to sew well?
What is the difference between polyester and rayon threads?
I seem to have a lot of "bounce" in one of my hoops. What could cause this?
How can I find answers to any and all of my embroidery and embroidery
business questions?
Chapter 4: Business Tips and Other Good Information
41
42
43
44
45
46
47
48
49
50
How can I make the most of my stock design collection?
What is a tax exempt status and how does a customer prove they have it?
What is an Internet cookie?
How can I find out who else carries an item when my normal supplier is out of
stock?
What is average "size" of thread and what other choices are available?
What is bias?
How do I match thread colors to printed colors when a customer needs it to be
"exactly the same?
Any ideas for increasing production?
How do I tell a woven from a knit?
How can I continue to improve my skills and my embroidery business?
2nd Place Prize Sponsor
Grand Prize Sponsor
<-- Overview
Chapter 1 -->
The Embroidery Mall
For problems or comments with this web site notify: [email protected]
EMBROIDERY MALL
Chapter 1 - Hooping and Backing
01
Q What is the best height for hooping?
best height for hooping depends upon the person doing the hooping! A taller
A The
person needs a higher work surface to reduce fatigue and stress on their arms,
shoulders and back. For a shorter person, a lower work surface for hooping
garments will allow for more efficient and accurate hooping. Ideally, you can create
a space that allows the work surface to be suited to the person that does most of the
hooping in your business.
02
Q How can I hoop so that the garment is straight when worn?
garments is simplified by using a hooping system with a true shoulder
A Hooping
form. The shoulder form allows the garment to drape naturally over the hoop in the
wearing position. Hooping the garment in this manner eliminates costly errors
caused by poor garment construction.
03
Q What is the best way to embroider on outerwear?
http://www.ud.net/embroiderymall/event8/50tips/chapter1.html (1 of 4) [10/16/2000 8:58:56 AM]
on jackets can be profitable and tricky. Oftentimes, the hardest part
A Embroidery
when working with jackets is getting it hooped tight, straight and in line with the
jacket lining. For jackets with really "loose" linings that seem to slip and slide all
over the place during the hooping process, we will take straight pins and pin the
jacket and the lining together at the side seams. Place the pin along the outside of
the jacket, parallel with the side seam. Then catch the lining with the tip of the pin
and make sure the pin is coming out of the same part of the seam on the lining.
Push the pin back through the lining and out the other side of the jacket along the
seam. This will keep the jacket and the lining correctly in position during the
hooping process. You can also put a pin in the center back of the jacket for full
back designs. If you hoop a jacket and the lining is caught out of position, the jacket
will never lay properly when worn as the lining will pull one way and the jacket
fabric will pull another. Make sure you remove the pin before you begin
embroidering. Remember to remove the side seam pins before packing the jackets
up for the customer as they could really cause harm under someone's arm. We note
job sheets where side seam pins have been used to that the person finishing the job
double checks every jacket before it is boxed up.
04
Q Is there a way to prevent oil spatters just after oiling the sewing heads?
of all, make sure you are oiling the heads in the correct places, with the
A First
amount of oil specified, and with the right kind of oil. Once you master the proper
oiling, then move to avoiding the once in a while splatters that may occur. One of
the easiest and least expensive ideas is to hoop two runs of goods with a soluble
topping after oiling, even if the garment does not usually require a topping for
quality embroidery. The topping will catch any oil drips and keep them off the
garment, and will wash completely away with the first visit through the laundry.
You can reduce the number of stained goods and keep the orders moving while
performing critical machine maintenance.
05
Q How can I make designs sew out better on knits?
is important to use the right stabilizer when stitching on knits. A cut-away
A Itstabilizer
will help your embroidery to look better on knits. After you wash
embroidery with tear-away stabilizer, the stabilizing aspect of it deminishes.
However, cut-away stabilizer will help your embroidery keep it's shape for the life
of the garment.
Also, select embroidery designs that are more suitable for knits. Designs made up
primarily of fills don't tend to look as good on knits. We know this isn't always
possible, but whenever you can select appropriate designs for your knit fabric.
06
Q Suggestions for removing backing?
use a sharp pair of scissors to trim backings away from an embroidery job. In
A Don't
fact, use a blunt-nosed scissor that is made for cutting paper, such as those cheap,
black-metal handled shears your elementary school teacher had in 1965. They will
cut backing just fine, but it's almost impossible to cut fabric with these dull shears.
That way, even if you do accidentally touch the fabric while trimming, you won't
necessarily nick or cut the fabric.
07
Q What is the best way to back a sweatshirt for embroidery?
are many ways to back a sweatshirt for embroidery. The right way for the job
A There
depends on the design. If the design is a full front, full fill design, use a cutaway
backing, attach it with some spray adhesive and make sure the backing is large
enough to be caught in the hoop all the way around the hoop edge. This will reduce
the amount of pulling and pushing on the surface of the garment and help create
embroidery that has good registration and is not too stiff. If the design is an open or
outline design, you can go to a tearaway backing or a lightweight nonwoven sheer
backing and still create excellent embroidery. If you are putting small lettering on a
sweatshirt, you will want to use some sort of soluble topping to help the small
lettering stay up on top of the ribs of the fabric.
08
Q Heat Press and Caps?
A Using a heat press on caps can help make hooping the caps easier. The heat from
the cap press softens the backing, making the cap fit the embroidery frame a bit
better and reducing the dimples and bubbles. Try this on your next cap order and
see if you find it helps.
09
Q Do I need a hooping device?
device can help you increase your production, reduce ruined garments
A AandHooping
obtain better consistency in your embroidery. It can also make it easier to train
new employees to hoop and reduce employee fatigue.
10
Q What is the best way to remove cutaway backing?
garments are put "at risk" in the backing removal process by scissor-wielding
A Many
embroiderers. One good way to remove cutaway backing and still protect the goods
is to hold the backing, and let the garment dangle down from the backing, with the
garment facing towards you. Use sharp fabric scissors to gently slice or cut the
backing away from the design. As the garment falls away, turn the design to finish
cutting around the design in a smooth line. This way, you can see the garment and
clearly see where you are cutting, and keep the scissors away from the finished
goods.
11
Q What are hoop burns and how can they be removed?
burns are the shiny rings that are left around the sewing area when your
A Hoop
hoops are too tight. They are actually formed when the fibers in the garment are
smashed, creating a smooth, shiny surface. Avoid hoop burns by not tightening the
hoops so much, or by wrapping the inner hoops with athletic tape. You can remove
hoop burns on many fabrics by spraying the rings with spray sizing. You can get
sizing at the grocery store, usually in the laundry aisle.
12
Q How can I hoop stretchy fabric such as lycra?
stretchy stuff is always difficult. There are a few things to know when
A Hooping
trying to hoop and embroider these materials. First of all, how much stretch will be
applied to the garment when worn? If the item will be drastically stretched, you
may want to pass on the job, simply because the embroidery may not hold up well
with that kind of wear and tear. Or the embroidery might survive, and the garment
might not, tearing along the embroidery. Either way, you are bound to make the
customer unhappy. Once you determine that the garment will be stretched a
reasonable amount, you can attempt hooping the item. If the fabric just slithers out
of your hoops, you might want to trying wrapping the inner and even the outer
hoops in gauze tape or athletic tape. This tape has a tacky surface that will provide
a better grip on the fabric yet not leave any residue once you are finished with the
embroidery. Try to put a bit of stretch on the item in the hooping process, so that
when the item is worn, the threads will not be pulled so hard that they break or tear
the fabric.
<-- Table of Contents
Chapter 2 -->
The Embroidery Mall
EMBROIDERY MALL
Chapter 2 - Digitzing Tips to Ponder
13
Q Suggestions for digitizing efficiency?
on-screen digitizing, I like to have a print out of the artwork at the actual
A During
size it is to be produced for reference. By using a document hangar or clip to one
side of the monitor, when you are zoomed in to an area on-screen for detail, you
can quickly reference the artwork for pathing, density and detail decisions without
zooming in and out.
14
Q Suggestions for leather?
digitizing for soft leather, use more undrlay and a less density top stitching to
A When
minimize pushing of the leather and reduce the chance of the design 'punching out'
the logo. Also, when embroidering the design in this manner, use a smaller, sharp
needle such as a 70/10. This produces smaller holes that are further apart, thus
minimizing the chance for 'punching out' the design as well. If coverage is a
problem when using this tip, try using 30 or 35 weight thread with this technique.
15
Q What is photo stitching?
stitching is using a column stitch in varing widths, and open space, and
A Photo
contrasting thread colors to create a interpretation of an image or picture in
embroidery thread. The final result can be surprisingly realistic or you can take
creative license and modify the design as you see fit.
16
Q How can I get a full front design without huge stitch counts?
technique that works really well is to really simplify the design. Take the
A One
design down to a few pencil strokes or brush strokes. Then create this design using
column stitches. You can create the feeling of movement, or of solidness with far
fewer stitches than you would normally imagine. Take the design as described or
shown to you by your customer and recreate it using no more than 10 lines with a
pen or a pencil. You can use fill stitches for small, crucial details to complete the
design. Once you get the knack, these outline designs are interesting to create, and
affordable to embroider.
17
can we get the look of full coverage without the cost of solid fill
Q How
embroidery?
area a few solutions to this question. One option would be to fill a large area
A There
with an open fill stitch instead of a solid fill stitch. This works when you can use
colors that compliment each other, yet have enough contrast to look nice. Another
option would be to create the large area as an applique. Appliques give you the
unique opportunity to introduce other colors and textures into the design that cannot
be achieved with thread. One other variation on the applique idea is to use fabric
that looks like solid embroidery as the applique. It is available in the industry and
offers a great way to create a lot of coverage while not creating a lot of stitches.
18
Q How can I digitize a design for more than one surface efficiently?
you have to sew the same design on denim, knits, and sweats and it has small
A When
lettering, I digitize one design for the knit shirts and sew it on the knits and denims.
Then I take just the lettering and add about 10-20% pull compensation for the
sweats. Now if the knit is a pique, I'll do one design for the denims only and then
add the pull compensation for the sweats and the pique. Sometimes if the lettering
is relay small I'll use solvy to get it to stand up on the pique and not fall into the
holes in the weave. Some stretchy piques require the solvy to be hooped with the
shirt as opposed to just taping a piece of solvy on top of the hooped garment.
19
Q How can I learn how to guestimate stitch counts for designs?
best teacher for estimating stitch count is experience. In the meantime, here are
A The
some guidelines that you might want to use: 1 solid square inch of embroidery =
roughly 2000 stithes. 1/4 inch solid embroidery = roughly 500 stitches lettering 1/4 inch lettering = roughly 100 stitches per letter column stitches = roughly 200
stitches per inch
Use these guides and look at some designs. See how close you come to estimating
stitch counts. With practice, you can become relatively accurate at guestimating.
20
Q Any suggestions for working with pique?
is definitely here for the long haul. Knowing how to digitize for this surface
A Pique
will make your life much easier when it comes time to embroider these shirts. Its
uneven surface calls for a few adjustments to your digitizing and hooping
techniques to create quality embroidery. First, be sure to use some sort of soluble
topping when hooping pique shirts. You will also want to use enough backing to
give stability with out too much bulk. Widen column widths for lettering about 20%
wider than you would for normal stitching. The stitches will sink into the hills and
valleys of the pique, and the wider columns will look better and will appear normal
width. You also may want to increase your density a bit to compensate for the
textured surface. By creating a few more stitches, you will fill in any "gaps" that are
really stitches that have disappeared into the texture of the fabric.
21
Q How can I get dimensional embroidery without using the foam?
embroidery existed long before foam was introduced. The secret to
A Dimensional
this technique is in the underlays! Yup, underlays... This technique works great on
columns and lettering for a snazzy appearance. Begin with the area that you want to
appear raised, or dimensional, with your first basic underlay. Then add another
underlay over than one that is slightly more dense, and wide enough to cover the
first layer. Then, go back over the 2 layers with the final top layer column stitch,
again slightly wider than the layers underneath. This creates a thick, rich looking
embroidery that pops off the surface of the cap or garment. One bit of advice, if you
are working on caps, work from the center out to the edges of the design to keep a
nice clean registration.
22
Q How can I keep wide column stitches from unraveling?
column stitches do have a tendency to unravel and the lock stitch is often
A Wide
simply not enough to hold the design together. Finish a wide column stitch with
more than just a lock stitch to increase its durability. Lay a line of walking stitches
along the last stitch of the column stitch, of stitches about 1 mm in length. Then
finish off with a lock stitch. These walking stitches and the lock stitch should be
enough to keep the column from unraveling.
23
Q Closest point embroidery?
you trim a connector thread between two objects(say two letters), check to
A Before
see that there is a lockdown to ensure the embroidery will not unravel.
Embroiderers Note- You can tell if there is a lockdown by looking at the back side
of the embroidery, you should be able to see a small knot.(a magnifying glass will
help)
Digitizers Note- People will generally want to trim a connector longer than 1-2 mm
and you need to be sure that there are lockdowns between objects this far apart. If
you digitize with the longest connection point between two objects it will make it
more clear to the embroiderer that it is meant to be a trim and also be easier for
them to get their scissors in.
24
Q How can I do a better job with trims between letters?
you want to streamline the trim process in lettering, try this technique - make
A Iflarger
trims instead of smaller ones and hand trim this part of the design! Establish
a point outside of the design and use jump stitches to take each trim to that point
instead of to the next letter. Be sure the point you select is inside the hoop and
either under a fill that will come later or that you do this on a knit shirt, so the hole
created at the stitch point will be absorbed without damage to the garment. Be sure
to jump your stitches across the embroidery, and not under any embroidery for a
clean finish without any caught threads.
25
Q What is a lock stitch and when is it used?
lock stitch does exactly what is says - it locks embroidery stitches in place. It is
A Aused
to form a knot of sorts with the top and bobbin threads and keeps them from
unraveling. It should be used before the needle is raised as a needle up and after the
needle is reset to begin sewing again. A lock stitch should be made up of at least 4
small overlapping stitches. These stitches should be large enough to cross, and not
so small that they enter and exit the same holes in the item being embroidered.
Lock stitches that are too small will cause fraying and thread breaks. Lock stitches
also are what activate trimmers on machines with autotrimmers.
<-- Chapter 1
Chapter 3 -->
The Embroidery Mall
EMBROIDERY MALL
Chapter 3 - Info, Tips and Tricks for the
Production Area
26
Q Special Effects Ideas?
Special Effects to increase profits. The right materials and techniques can cut
A Use
costs while boosting appeal as well as profits. The public constantly demands new
and different looks and will pay more for special effects. Applique' is one of the
most overlooked techniques that can save machine time when set up properly. By
simply placing a piece of material on a garment and sewing it in place, you can
change the look of the design and reduce stitch counts of a large area by 65% of the
full fill. Some fabrics to try are terry washcloths for snowman, furry fabrics for
teddy bears and Santa's beard, or use gold lame' material for areas that call for a lot
of metallic thread. Applique' any flat fabric onto a garment over quilt batting to add
dimension or layer several applique' materials when applying a variety of stitches
over them offers still more options. A specific design becomes limited only by your
imagination and fabric availability.
27
Q How do you get accurate placement for appliques?
that include appliques should be digitized for appliques. The digitizer
A Designs
should lay down a running stitch that shows you where to place the applique. Then
another run stitch should go around the applique and hold it in place. This is often
called a tackdown stitch. For designs with multiple appliques, see if the digitizer
can plan the design in such a way that all the appliques can be laid on the sewing
surface and tacked down into place at the beginning of the design. This will
increase the production efficiency of the order considerably. Also as part of the
design, the digitizer should give you a second file that has just the running stitch
from the applique. Sew this design out and use it as a template for cutting out the
appliques.
28
Q How can I make the inside of the embroidered goods as smooth as possible??
stitching a design for babies or someone with sensitive skin or to hide the
A When
back of the design on something like a table cloth, slip a piece of light weight
cutaway under the hoop just before you sew the outline and the back threads will be
hidden. There will be less irritation against the skin and the back side of the work
will look neater. Note: If using this technique, the last piece of stabilizer is in
addition to the stabilizer that is hooped with the fabric for the embroidery.
29
Q Any suggestions for taming jacket sleeves on a multi-head machine?
can clip them together with clothespins or you can pull the sleeves back inside
A You
the jacket, inside out. Either way works pretty well to control sleeves and keep
them from flapping or bouncing their way into the sewing area. You can also snap
the jacket, if it has snaps, to the jacket at the next sewing head, connecting the male
and female parts of the snaps. This keeps the sleeves on the sewing table under the
jackets that are connected and out of the sewing area.
30
Q How many stitches per cone of thread?
obviously varies, depending upon the designs and stitch lengths. . . However,
A This
on average, a 5,000 yard cone will create roughly 900,000 stitches. A bobbin, 127
yards, will usually be good for about 30,000 stitches.
31
Q Is ear protection necessary?
A Definitely,YES!!!
Research has proved beyond a doubt that anyone working around machines that
create a repetitive sound, at the noise level of created by embroidery machines,
definitely should wear ear protection to protect their hearing and to avoid other
conditions caused by exposure to these sounds. Ear protection is available in a
number of formatsÊsmall foam plugs to be place in each ear and headsets work
well.
32
Q How often and when should the machine be oiled?
the machine at the beginning of the shift or day instead of at the end allows
A Oiling
the machine to spread the oil across the parts that need the lubrication while
running. If you oil at the end of the day, most of the oil can drip off of the parts that
needed the lubrication. As far as how often the machine should be oiled, consult the
maintenance handbook that came with your equipment. Follow the schedule
provided with your machine. This will help your machine run well and run longer
without hassles.
33
Q How do you embroider on ties?
can do it a number of ways, depending upon the size of the design and the
A You
placement. Many embroiderers simply stick the tie on some sticky backing and
stitch the design, if it is not too large. Some designs require a more tight hooping to
keep everything in place for good registration. In these cases, you can actually hoop
the tie in the hoop on sticky backing, or on a nonwoven sheer cutaway or tearaway
backing. Some folks even open up the back seam of the tie, embroider the design,
and the resew the seam. The best answer will be determined by you, the design, and
the customer.
34
Q What are the different bobbin sizes?
there are 3 bobbin sizes available, Style L, Style E and Style M. Style L
A Currently
has 120 - 127 yds of thread and is the most often used size of bobbin. Style E
bobbins were developed by Coats American and are used only for machines with
the Hirose hook. These bobbins hold about 170 yds of thread. The Style M bobbin,
generally known as the jumbo bobbin, holds 179 - 225 yds of thread. While it might
seem to make sense to go with the jumbo bobbin to reduce down time for bobbin
changes, check with your machine manufacturer and see what they recommend as
the best bobbin for your equipment.
35
Q How can I fix looping?
looping can be solved by doing the opposite of what you think!
A Sometimes,
Loosening the tension can solve the problem more often than tightening the tension.
The hook point has to pass through the loop at precisely the right moment. By
tightening the upper tension, you are actually making a smaller loop, making it
harder for the hook to catch the loop and properly form the stitch.
36
Q How can I keep thread from sliding off some of my cones?
you have slippery thread, try using a rubber band to quickly and neatly keep the
A Ifthread
on the spool while not gumming up the thread. Take a medium sized rubber
band that is not made of too wide rubber and make it into an 8 shape. Tuck the top
loop over the top of the plastic cone and wrap the other loop over the bottom of the
plastic cone. The rubber band will apply enough pressure to hold the threads in
place and only takes a second to remove, and then replace when putting the thread
back into storage. This works for thread that is stored on peg board, standing up in
boxes and laying down in drawers. One word of advice - avoid using any kind of
tape on your thread. It may leave a sticky residue that is bound to cause trouble
when it gets on the machine. Save yourself the hassle and go buy a bag of rubber
bands.
37
Q
How can I get metallic thread to sew well?
using a large eye needle it often can make a huge difference in the runnability
A Try
of the threads. Also, there are different kinds of metallic thread. You may want to
get samples to see which one you like the best for your equipment.
38
Q What is the difference between polyester and rayon threads?
simplest of terms, ithread choice boils down to how the garment is going to
A Inbe the
used, and how it is going to be cleaned. Polyester threads are more "tough" and
can hold their own against commercial cleaning chemicals and bleach. Rayon
thread has a wider selection of colors and used to have a higher shine. The polyester
thread has come a long way in the shine department, and the color selection as well.
If you think the goods might be subjected to harsch cleaning agents, go with the
polyester. If the goods are to be cleaned at home and without bleach, either poly or
rayon threads will work just fine.
39
Q I seem to have a lot of "bounce" in one of my hoops. What could cause this?
upon your equipment, the hoop attachments, you could have a bent
A Depending
bracket. To see if this is the case, take your hoop and put the inner and outer hoop
together without any garment in the hoop. Attach the hoop to the machine as if you
were going to embroider something in the hoop. Does the entire hoop rest easily on
the sewing table? Or is the part of the hoop closest to you raised off the table
surface a bit? If the hoop is raised, you have a bent bracket. Fixing or replacing this
bracket is a necessity if you want to create quality embroidery. Having your hoops
bounce, creating flagging, will greatly increase your risk for low quality
embroidery. Depending on you type of hoop, you may be able to adjsut the hoop
yourself if you work with it very carefully. Check all of your hoops if you hear a
banging noise during sewing (the hoop slapping the sewing table) or if you notice
the hoops bouncing while sewing.
40
can I find answers to any and all of my embroidery and embroidery
Q How
business questions?
the National Network of Embroidery Professionals - your resource for success!
A Join
This organizaton has a nearly 90% renewal rate - which means the members find it
worth every penny of their membership dues. Drop [email protected] a note for to
receive the full membership information. You can save $100's with the supplier
discounts, hours and hours of your valuable time with the product locator service,
and much more with the many member programs and discounts.
<-- Chapter 2
Chapter 4 -->
Chapter 4 - Business Tips and Other Good
Information
41
Q How can I make the most of my stock design collection?
way to really utilize your designs is to sew them in colors not shown in the
A One
catalog. One design, for example a tree, can look completely different when sewn
in different colors. You can go with a deep green for the leaves, or you can change
seasons by sewing the leaves in a rust, orange, gold or red. Better yet, you can
create an entire forest by duplicating the design and sewing each tree in different
shades of green or fall colors. Stock designs are only the beginning of the ideas.
Use your creativity and play with your stock designs to create custom designs that
will keep your customers coming back again and again.
42
Q What is a tax exempt status and how does a customer prove they have it?
exempt status is often related to non-profit organizations. The organization will
A Tax
have a certificate of exemption that they can give you all filled out. The complete
certificate should be kept on file so that you can confirm their status should you be
asked. You can also buy blank copies of these forms from your local office supply
and have them on hand for the convenience of your customers.
43
Q What is an Internet cookie?
like to buy embroidery designs online, you will deal with cookies. Simply
A Ifput,you'd
Internet cookies are distinctive little strings of text that are sent from the host
computer to your computer when you visit a web site. Incredible as it seems, this
little string of text makes online shopping possible. For example, if you and your
friend across the street both visit embroidery.com and shop there at the same
instant, how can the computer at embroidery.com tell your orders apart and keep
you from each being charged for the other's purchases? Cookies! You and your
friend receive different cookies from embroidery.com, even if you come online at
the same instant. Embroidery.com reads your computers' respective cookies, and
marks your order as coming from the computer which has cookie a. This keeps it
separate from your friend's order, which is coming from the computer with cookie
b. You can check out your own cookies in your web browser directory, and see
what your favorite sites are sending to keep track of your preferences and orders, in
each case it will be a simple line of text. Your cookies file takes up only a small
amount of space on your computer, but it makes instant access to online products
possible. Embroidery stock designs and supplies by the thousands are becoming
available online, which makes for fast access. If you need your digitized stock
design today, set your web browser to accept cookies, find the design you require,
and ready, set, download! Now that you understand cookies, you see how
embroidery meets the Internet -- style meets immediate access.
44
can I find out who else carries an item when my normal supplier is out of
Q How
stock?
the garment manufacturer and ask them where they have sent the item you are
A Call
seeking, in the sizes and colors you need. Usually, they can tell you what other
distributors carry the specific item you need, and they can narrow down that list of
possibilities by checking what company has received inventory recently. Time well
spent on the phone at the beginning of your search can save you hours of wild
goose chasing.
45
Q What is average "size" of thread and what other choices are available?
thread most commonly used for commercial embroidery is 40 weight thread.
A The
There are finer and thicker threads as well. The higher the thread number, the finer
the thread. So, a 60 weight thread is a thinner, finer thread than a 40 weight. These
finer threads are excellent for creating crisp small lettering and for monograms.
This finer thread also is used on finer linens for the home, such as bed sheets,
handkerchiefs, and table napkins. A 30 weight thread is thicker and heavier in the
coverage. You can use these thicker threads to create lower stitch counts in solid fill
areas. When digitizing for this type of thread, you can lower the density and still get
excellent thread coverage.
46
Q What is bias?
is the diagonal line of a woven fabric. Generally the bias stretches when
A Bias
tension is placed on the fabric at an angle from the woven threads. If you take a
square piece of woven fabric and pull on any of the square sides, it will not stretch.
If you grab it by the corners and pull, the fabric will stretch and even ripple
between the corners. It is important to understand bias when you are embroidering
large designs on woven fabrics. As the stitches push and pull the fabric, bias can
affect registration and bagging on the finished goods. Stabilize bias by using a
backing that has no bias (non-woven). Attach the backing to the fabric with spray
adhesive before hooping. You should also understand how to compensate for bias
with your underlay stitches
47
do I match thread colors to printed colors when a customer needs it to be
Q How
"exactly the same?
the customer to get the PMS # of the printed color from their printer. PMS is a
A Ask
standardized color matching system used in the paper printing industry. Most of the
thread companies will work with you to give you their best matching thread for that
ink color. If you are trying to make the best match, be sure to step into natural
lighting when comparing colors. Indoor lighting can drastically change the
appearance of colors. Natural light will help you select the best options.
48
Q Any ideas for increasing production?
sew more! Just kidding... Really, there are so many ways to tackle this
A Sure,
question. First, you need to determine how effective you are being in producing
your embroidery, and find out where the snags are in the flow of work. Do you
have to stop and program the names? Are you spending time hunting for the right
boxes of shirts? Has anyone unpacked and checked the goods before they are to be
hooped? I guess my answer would to be say, "Get Organized" and that will be your
best bet for streamlining the time at the machine. The trade magazines have articles
full of suggestions each month that are there to help you see the big picture of your
business and how to make it as profitable as possible.
49
Q How do I tell a woven from a knit?
fabrics are made from the continuous thread that loops together to form the
A Knit
fabric. A knit fabric will have stretch in all directions. Woven fabrics are made by
weaving a thread in and out of other threads that are stretched at right angles to the
thread that is being woven. Woven threads have an obvious vertical thread pattern
and an obvious horizontal thread pattern that is usually quite crisp. Woven fabric
will only stretch at an angle, known as the bias.
Golf shirts are usually made from a knit fabric, sweat shirts are knit, and T-shirts
are knit. Denim shirts, most jackets, and dress shirts are made with woven fabrics.
50
Q How can I continue to improve my skills and my embroidery business?
up with folks at the Embroidery University! You can participate in chats with
A Hook
other embroiderers about all sorts of topics. You can take courses targeted for
specific skills, such as digitizing, business, production and such. This learning
environment was created to allow embroiderers to learn and improve at their
individual pace.
<-- Chapter 3
Next -->
The Embroidery Mall
EMBROIDERY MALL
Free Expert Advice
Toll Free
(800) 235-3909
We value our customers.
Our mission is building
long term relationships
by continued support
and advice after the sale...
Extended Warranties, Service and training
on all make and models of embroidery machines.
Brother 1991 BAS 415
Brother 1998 BAS 423
Melco 1995 EMC 10T
$11,995
$24,995
$14,995
(with disk reader)
Melco
Melco
Melco
Tajima
Tajima
Tajima
Tajima
Tajima
Tajima
Tajima
Toyota
Toyota
1988 Superstar IV $17,995
1995 EMC 6/4M
$14,995
1990 EMC 6/4
$12,000
1998 TMFXC 1202 $24,500
1998 TMFXII-C 1204 $31,995
1994 TMFX-C 904 $29,995
1994 TME-DC 906-S $29,995
1997 TMFX-C 906 $40,995
1993 TME-HC 912 $41,995
1996 TME-DC 915 $53,995
1993 830
$11,995
1999 860
$13,500
Tajima
Tajima
SWF
1997 TMFXC-1206 $39,950
1996 TME-DC 918
$75,000
(with 270 Caps)
2000 SWF/A-T1201 $16,995
(with WINgs Navigator 3+)
Meistergram 1990 800XLC
$7,995
Barudan
1993 BEMAME 1512 $39,995
Happy
1993 HM802
$18,995
Happy
1997 HCM 1006
$43,995
Pulse Signature Artist I
$9,995
Pulse Signature Artist II
$6,995
CAI Super EDS 98
$2,995
Sierra Embroidery Office Edit
$1,495
gunold Navigator 3+
$4,995
TOLL FREE
(800) 235-3909
Coast To Coast Embroidery Equipment: North America's full-service provider of pre-owned embroidery equipment.
With 25 years in the industry, we provide superior customer service, delivery, setup, service and warranties.
We buy, sell and broker all types of used equipment
Tajima, Barudan, Melco, Happy, Meistergram, Toyota, Brother,SWF and more!
Visit our web site!
www.ctcemb.com
We have hundreds of listings in a completely searchable database.
Melco equipment and software…
dreamed, designed and
developed to work in harmony.
Melco Embroidery Systems …a complete embroidery
systems solution provider. Our message is simple: When
it comes to your embroidery goals, we have your solutions.
Everything we offer is designed and engineered by Melco to
work together. Think of it as an integrated approach––we
call it seamless integration––in which all parts work in unison.
The benefits of seamless integration to you: embroidery that
maximizes quality, productivity, efficiency and flexibility.
When you deal with Melco you are dealing directly with
the manufacturer, not only the distributor. Melco offers a
full spectrum of embroidery options that deliver a combination of advanced functionality and ease of use unparalleled
in the industry: computerized embroidery systems, digitizing
software, supplies and accessories, technical support,
training and leasing.
Melco’s EMB 10/6T combines raw power
with engineered elegance.
• Melco Control Panel Software
• Sewing speeds up to 1,200 spm
• Quick change from tubular to caps to flats
• Largest sewing field - 16.75” x 19.5”
• Servomotor technology ensures exact x-y movement
• Heads with built-in stepper motors guarantee fewer pullouts
• New thread path provides consistent quality sew-outs
Threading Futures Together
1-800-36-Melco
1-800-877-4272
1-888-805-8631 (Canada)
www.melco.com

Here - UD.net

Transcription

Similar documents

Embroidering Drawstring Backpack Drawstring backpacks are a

The Basics for Successful Embroidery

Leaflet - Brothers Sewing Machines Europe

Top Features - Viking Sewing Center

Spiral Scrubbie Pattern

HUSQVARNA VIKING® DESIGNER DIAMOND deLuxe

Start A Home-based Embroidery Business

Flyer

Kippah with Center Star - Women`s League for Conservative Judaism

Massey`s Sewing Machines Ltd. - Massey Sewing Machines Online