The Larousse Book of Bread Éric Kayser

The Larousse Book of Bread
Éric Kayser
Step-by-step home baking recipes from France’s foremost
culinary resource, Larousse, and Parisian master baker Éric
Kayser.
The Larousse Book of Bread features more than 80 home baking
recipes for breads and pastries from two of France’s most trusted
authorities. From traditional Boule and Cob and specialty Ryes
and Multigrains, to gluten-free Organic Sour Doughs and Spelts
and sweet Brioches, Kayser’s easy-to-follow recipes feature
detailed instructions and step-by-step photography.
No matter if you are creating quick and simple Farmhouse Breads
or gourmet treats like Croissants and Viennese Chocolate Bread,
with its unique structure and a comprehensive guide to
techniques, ingredients and equipment, The Larousse Book of
Bread is the ideal baking resource for both home cooks and
professionals.
Save 20% with coupon code: LA20EK
Foreword9
For the Love of Bread
Traditional Breads
10
The basics of bread making
46
Boule 12
48
Batard52
Baguette54
Polka Bread
56
Flours14
Fancy Loaves: Ficelle, Epi, & Braided
58
Choosing the Right Ingredients
Baker’s Peel
64
Equipment18
Petite Baguette
66
Kneading20
Rustic Loaf
68
Fermentation24
Tabatiere 70
Liquid Sourdough Starter
25
Split Loaf
74
Pre-Fermentation Methods
26
Daisy Loaf 76
Fresh Yeast in Bread Making
28
Portemanteau78
The Two Stages of Fermentation
30
The Twist
Pre-Shaping the Dough
32
Zigzag Bread
84
Final Shaping
34
Couronne Bread Ring
86
Scoring the Dough
38
Bow Tie Bread
90
Baking & Storing Bread
42
Learning from Mistakes
44
16
82
Specialty breads
92
“First Mill” Loaf
94
Cornmeal Loaf
96
Mixed Seed Bread
Kamut® Bread
98
100
Whole Wheat Bread
104
Semolina Bread
106
Country Bread
108
Bran Loaf
110
Rye Bread
112
Maslin Loaf
116
Gluten-Free Cornbread
120
Gluten-Free Chestnut Flour Bread
122
Rosemary Focaccia 124
Macatia 128
Ekmek 130
Pumpernickel 132
Broa 136
Bagels 138
Sesame Buns 142
Swiss “Cross” Bread 144
Organic
Sweet pastries
naturalLY-leavened BREADS
& breads
146
232
Organic Baguette
148
Paris Buns
234
Organic Stone-Ground Bread
152
Viennese Bread
236
Classic Organic Bread
154
Sugar Bread
240
Organic Buckwheat Bread
158
Classic Brioche
242
Organic Spelt Bread
160
Brioche Loaf
246
Organic Einkorn Bread
164
Raisin Benoitons
248
Organic Whole Wheat Bread
166
Croissants250
Stone-Ground Bread with Currants
168
Pain au Chocolat
254
Vanilla Rolls
258
Pullman Loaf
260
Pain aux Raisins
264
Breads with Extras
Bread Rolls
170
268
Hazelnut & Butter Bread
172
Poppy Seed Rolls
270
Gorgonzola & Walnut Bread
174
Bread Rolls with Lardons & Pecans
272
Green Tea & Orange Loaf
176
Pistolets276
Orange Bread
180
Kamut® & Seaweed Rolls
278
Fig Bread
182
Hazelnut & Chocolate Rolls
280
Honey Bread
184
Walnuts & Raisin Rolls
284
Walnut & Butter Bread
186
Breadsticks286
Turmeric Bread
190
Mixed Fruit & Nut Crowns
192
Sesame Seed Bread
196
Cuttlefish Ink Bread
198
Oil-enriched breads
Appendix
200
290
Plain Ciabatta
202
Bulk Conversions
Mixed Seed Ciabatta
208
Conversions305
Buckwheat Ciabatta
210
Glossary306
Pumpkin Seed Ciabatta
212
Index308
Basil Bread
216
Sun-Dried Tomato Bread
218
Fougasse with Ash Goat Cheese
220
Fougasse with Black & Green Olives
222
Fougasse with Lardons
226
Pizza228
292
FOREWORD
Around the late nineties, the French rediscovered bread—not
just any old bread, but the bread that, these days, is offered
by exceptional artisan bakers. The use of natural leavens
and quality flours, the alliance of tradition and technology,
the inventiveness—these are some of the reasons for the
renaissance. Tired of soulless commercial products, consumers
now want to understand how their bread is made, and this
book is a response to those demands.
It is a short journey from the quest for good bread to making
it yourself, and renowned French artisan baker Éric Kayser
wants you to take that step. His goal for you is ambitious
because he invites you to throw yourself into the process
of making bread using natural leaven. You will easily find the
ingredients you need for the recipes in this book in good
supermarkets and specialist stores. You already have an oven.
If you don’t want to knead by hand you can use an electric
stand mixer. If you work with good ingredients, you are already
more than halfway there. For the rest, there are the stepby-step explanations of the recipes, which you can follow in
Massimo Pessina’s close-up photographs.
Éric Kayser, who runs many bakeries in France and abroad,
receives a constant stream of requests from private
individuals who want to spend a night in the bakery, baking
bread. This book demonstrates his eagerness to satisfy the
urge that many of us have to touch and feel dough with our
own hands and, through making it ourselves, to understand
what bread really is. “People today are seeking authenticity
in all kinds of things,” he explains. “And what could be better
than bread, when it is made honestly, with no trickery
or artifice, to convey this feeling of authenticity?”
9
in me a desire to help prevent apprentices going astray in the
world, to teach them how to respect others and to earn respect
For the love OF BREAD
themselves. I believe in humankind. Within every lost soul,
there is always something good that will help him find his
way, provided he allows himself to be helped. I am absolutely
delighted that the Compagnons du Devoir is now open
to women, which was not the case in my day. Some of them
have become remarkable stonemasons or bakers.
At the request of the Companionship, I was asked to help
develop training programs for the future. At the time, I was
I come from a long line of bakers originating in Alsace
already running training courses and work-placement schemes
in France. My family is from the Franche-Comté, specifically
for the Institut National de la Boulangerie Pâtisserie
from a town called Lure, where my father practiced the
(the inbp, or the National Institute of Baking and Pastry-
craft and passed it to me. As a child, I loved the time that
Making—France’s leading technical college for bakers). These
I spent with him in the bakery and I always saw myself
internships operated within the framework of the Centres
following in his footsteps­­—but in a different way, somehow
de Formation d’Apprentis (cfa, or Centers for the Training
combining the job with my childhood dreams of traveling
of Apprentices) and then shifted to bakeries. Over the course
the world. Although my father was happy in his work,
of two to three nights, we would show bakers how to
I had the impression that he was tied to his bakery. The image
organize their work. It was a question of not hurting people’s
of the artisan baker, working seven days a week and part
feelings and I found the experience character-building.
of the nights, will either entice or deter you. I persisted,
In the course of these training sessions Patrick Castagna
starting an apprenticeship in Fréjus, at Gérard Levant’s
(a greatly valued trainer by inbp) and I began to realize that
bakery. There I learned how to mix the dough, how to make
bakers who had abandoned natural leavens after the war
the leaven, how to put bread in the oven with a baker’s peel.
wanted to go back to using them, but did not know how.
Levant was a good teacher who passed on to me the love
So together, in 1992, we created a baking consultancy (Panis
of work well done. At that time, there were no restrictions
Victor) and started to develop a concept for a machine
on working hours for minors, and I often started before
that would be capable of handling natural leavens. The gradual
1 a.m. One time, I took a girl out to go dancing and explained
adoption of natural leavens by French bakers meant that
that I would disappear by midnight, like Cinderella. When
millers were starting to offer us bakers ancient varieties
she asked why, I told her that I was a baker… and the spell
of high-quality wheat flour that had been abandoned because
was broken. But while these can be the drawbacks of the
of low yields. The entire industry, from field to bakery,
occupation, they did not discourage me.
began to be questioned. We developed the concept for our
Fermentolevain machine in association with the bakery
While doing my military service I took the opportunity
division of the Swedish company Electrolux. It meant a great
of signing up as a conscript in Lebanon, where I joined
deal of traveling around the world to launch our machines.
the blue berets of the unfil (United Nations Interim Force
Fermentolevain won the Innovation Award at Europain 1994.
in Lebanon). That experience only reaffirmed my desire
to see the world. On returning to France, I joined the
On 13 September, 1996, I opened my first bread shop at 8 rue
Compagnons du Devoir (“Companions of Duty”), a workers’
Monge in Paris—partly inspired by memories of my father’s
association that offered apprentices opportunities to further
bakery. I wanted to reproduce a child’s picture book image
their training and to travel. The chance to gain practical
of the traditional bakery, complete with a bread oven built on
knowledge while traveling appealed to me. Collective life had
a hearth of firebricks. We were resolved to banish people’s
many rules. My daily routine comprised a total of 10 hours
vision of dreary supermarket shelves with their limp plastic-
of work, on top of which I had 5–6 hours of lessons—either
wrapped baguettes. There is little doubt that the use
giving or receiving them—as well as various tasks and duties
of quality flours and natural leavens, together with skilled
to carry out within the community. I completed my “Tour of
kneading and baking, have all contributed to French people’s
France” in four years, earning on graduation the name Franc-
renewed desire for bread with complex aromas and a fresh,
Comtois le Décidé (“The resolute Franc-Comtois”).
light crumb. These days, I fly around the world to open new
bakeries on other continents and to bring a love of French
Living with others, sharing, receiving, giving: these are the
bread to people who have never tasted it. But I do miss
values most at risk in young people, who often prefer to shut
the hands-on contact with dough, and I often feel the urge
themselves in their rooms playing video games. I learned
to return to a bakery and to start kneading.
from the Compagnons the desire to do good, as well as tenacity
and a love of honest work. My own experiences instilled
10
­­— Éric Kayser
11
KNEADING IN A STAND MIXER
Put the flour and water in the bowl and mix for 4 minutes
at low speed. Remove the bowl from the machine and
cover it with a damp cloth. Leave to rest for 1 hour, then add
baguette
the starter, fresh yeast, and salt. Knead with the dough hook
for 4 minutes at low speed, then for 7 minutes at high speed.
KNEADING BY HAND
Put the flour on a work surface or in a mixing bowl and make
a large well in the center. Pour in two-thirds of the water
and mix until all the flour has been incorporated. Leave to rest
Makes 3 baguettes,
each about 300 g
for 1 hour under a damp cloth, then incorporate the rest of
the water, the starter, fresh yeast, and salt. Knead the
dough until it becomes smooth and elastic.
timings
• Mixing & kneading: 15 min
Shape into a ball and cover with a damp cloth. Let rise for
•First resting: 1 h
1 hour 30 minutes. It will have increased in volume by the end
•First rising: 1 h 30 min
of the rising time.
1
2
3
•Second resting: 30 min
•Proofing: 1 h 40 min
•Baking: 20 min
ingredients
•500 g (4 cups) all-purpose
(plain) flour, plus extra
for dusting
•325 g (scant 1 ⅓ cups)
water at 68°f (20°c)
•100 g (scant ½ cup)
liquid sourdough starter
Dust the work surface. Divide the dough into 3 equal pieces.
Fold each piece over on itself, pulling gently to stretch into
a longish log. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to rest for
30 minutes.
Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, use the palm
of your hand to flatten it gently. With the long side facing you,
fold in a third towards the center and press along the edge
with your fingertips [ 1 ]. Swivel the dough 180 degrees.
Fold in the other long edge so that it overlaps in the center
(or 25 g [3 tablespoons]
and press with the heel of your hand. Fold one half on top
dry sourdough starter)
of the other, and seal the edges together with the heel of your
•3 g (1 teaspoon) fresh
hand [ 2 ].
baker’s yeast, crumbled
•10 g (2 teaspoons) salt
With lightly floured hands, roll the baguette out to 21 inches
(55 cm) long, then pinch each end into a point [ 3 ]. Shape the
other 2 baguettes the same way.
4
Carefully lift the baguettes onto a lightly floured baker’s
cloth, seams underneath. Separate them by making folds
in the cloth. Cover with a damp cloth and leave to proof for
1 hour 40 minutes, by which time the baguettes will have
increased in volume [ 4 ].
Place a baking sheet on the bottom shelf of the oven and
preheat to 450°f (230°c). Gently place the baguettes, seam
down, on another baking sheet lined with parchment (baking)
paper. Dust with flour and make 4 evenly spaced oblique
slashes along the length of each baguette [ 5 ]. Just before
putting the baguettes in the oven, pour 50 g (scant ¼ cup)
of water onto the preheated baking sheet. Bake for 20 minutes.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a wire rack.
5
54
55
Traditional Breads
KNEADING IN A STAND MIXER
Put the flour, water, starter, fresh yeast, salt, sugar, and
egg in the mixing bowl. Knead with the dough hook for
4 minutes at low speed, then for 3 minutes at high speed.
Bagels
Add the butter and knead at high speed for another 3 minutes.
KNEADING BY HAND
Put the flour on a work surface or in a mixing bowl and make
a large well in the center. Pour in half the water, then
add the starter, fresh yeast, salt, sugar, and egg. Mix well,
then add the remaining water and knead until all the flour
Makes 9 bagels,
is incorporated. Add the butter and knead the dough until it
each about 100 g
becomes smooth and elastic.
timings
Put the dough onto a floured work surface [ 1 ]. Use your hands
• Mixing & kneading: 10 min
to flatten and roll it into a rough oblong [ 2, 3 ]. Use a dough
•First rising: 1 h
cutter to divide the dough into 9 equal piece [ 4 ]. Cover with
•Resting time: 15 min
a damp cloth and leave to rest for 15 minutes.
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
•Proofing: 30 min
•Boiling: 30 min
•Baking: 15 min
ingredients
•500 g (4 cups) all-purpose
(plain) flour, plus extra
for dusting
•200 g (scant 1 cup)
water at 68°f (20°c)
•100 g (scant ½ cup)
liquid sourdough starter
Roll each piece of dough under your hands to form nicely
rounded balls [ 5, 6 ]. Dust the tops with flour, then push
your finger into the center of each ball to form a hole [ 7 ].
Gradually stretch the holes and widen them to a diameter
of around 1 inch (2.5 cm) to create the traditional bagel ring
[ 8, 9, 10 ]. Cover the bagels with a damp cloth and leave
to proof for 30 minutes.
Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Reduce to a simmer,
then lower in the bagels, 1 at a time, with a slotted spoon
(or 25 g [2 tablespoons]
[ 11 ]. Cook for 1 minute 30 seconds, then turn the bagels over
dry sourdough starter)
in the simmering water and cook for another 1 minute
•5 g (1 ½ teaspoons)
30 seconds. They will expand as they cook [ 12 ]. Let the
fresh baker’s yeast
bagels drain on a wire rack set above the sink. Cook the
•10 g (2 teaspoons) salt
•20 g (2 tablespoons) sugar
•2 eggs
•25 g (2 tablespoons)
softened butter
•Poppy and sesame seeds
for topping
remaining bagels the same way.
Prepare 2 large plates, 1 covered with poppy seeds, the other
with sesame seeds. In a small bowl, lightly beat the egg.
Brush the cooked bagels lightly with beaten egg, then roll
them in poppy or sesame seeds. Leave some plain. Arrange
them on baking sheets lined with parchment (baking) paper.
Place another baking sheet on the bottom shelf of the oven
and preheat to 400°f (200°c). Just before putting the bagels
in the oven, pour 50 g (scant ¼ cup) of water onto
the preheated baking sheet. Bake for 15 minutes.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a wire rack.
138
139
Specialty Breads
Bagels
140
141
Specialty Breads
KNEADING IN A STAND MIXER
Put the flour, water, starter, fresh yeast, salt, milk powder
Walnut
&
Butter
Bread
and sugar in the bowl. Knead with the dough hook for
5 minutes at low speed [ 1 ], then for 7 minutes at high speed.
Mix in the butter [ 2 ] and knead for another 3 minutes.
Add the walnuts and mix in briefly at low speed.
KNEADING BY HAND
Put the flour on a work surface or in a mixing bowl and make
a large well in the center. Pour in half the water, then add the
starter, fresh yeast, salt, milk powder, and sugar. Mix well,
Makes 5 loaves,
each about 220 g
then add the rest of the water and blend until all the flour
has been incorporated. Add the butter and knead the dough
1
2
3
until it becomes smooth and elastic. Add the walnuts at
timings
the end of the kneading.
• Mixing & kneading: 15 min
•First rising: 1 h 30 min
Shape the dough into a ball, cover with a damp cloth, and
•Resting: 15 min
leave to rise for 1 hour 30 minutes. Midway through the rise,
•Proofing: 1 h 15 min
deflate the dough by folding it in half. It will have increased
•Baking: 17 min
in volume by the end of the rising time.
ingredients
Dust the work surface. Divide the dough into 5 equal pieces
•500 g (4 cups) all-purpose
and shape them into balls. Cover with a damp cloth and leave
(plain) flour, plus extra
for dusting
•225 g (scant 1 cup)
water at 68°f (20°c)
•100 g (scant ½ cup)
liquid sourdough starter
(or 25 g [3 tablespoons]
dry sourdough starter)
•5 g (1 ½ teaspoons) fresh
baker’s yeast, crumbled
•10 g (2 teaspoons) salt
•25 g (¼ cup) milk powder
•35 g (scant ¼ cup) sugar
•75 g (⅓ cup)
softened butter
•150 g (1 ½ cups) walnuts,
chopped
to rest for 15 minutes.
Working with 1 piece of dough at a time, use the palm
of your hand to flatten it gently into a rough oval. With the
long side facing you, fold in a third towards the center and
press along the edge with your fingertips. Swivel the dough
180 degrees. Fold in the other long edge so that it overlaps
in the center and press again. Fold one half on top of the other
and seal the edges together with the heel of your hand [ 3 ].
With lightly floured hands, roll the dough out to form a plump
oval. Shape the other 4 loaves the same way.
Score the loaves diagonally in a “sausage” cut [ 4 ] (see page 41).
Place them, seams underneath, on a floured baker’s cloth.
Separate them by making folds in the cloth. Cover with a damp
cloth and leave to proof for 1 hour 15 minutes.
Place a baking sheet on the bottom shelf of the oven and
preheat to 450°f (230°c). Arrange the loaves on another
baking sheet lined with parchment (baking) paper. Just
before putting the loaves in the oven, pour 50 g (scant ¼ cup)
of water onto the preheated baking sheet. Bake for 17 minutes.
Remove from the oven and leave to cool on a wire rack.
4
186
187
Breads with Extras
Walnut & Butter Bread
188
189
Breads with Extras
conversions
Glossary
Words with an asterisk* are explained within this glossary.
Weight
Volumes
Measurements
10 g
—
¼ oz
5 ml
—
1 teaspoon
3 mm
—
⅛ inch
20 g
—
½ oz
10 ml
—
1 dessert spoon
5 mm
—
¼ inch
25 g
—
1 oz
15 ml
—
1 tablespoon
1 cm
—
½ inch
50 g
—
2 oz
30 ml
—
1 fl oz
2 cm
—
¾ inch
60 g
—
2 ½ oz
50 ml
—
2 fl oz
2.5 cm
—
1 inch
75 g
—
3 oz
75 ml
—
3 fl oz
3 cm
—
1 ¼ inches
100 g
—
3 ½ oz
100 ml
—
3 ½ fl oz
4 cm
—
1 ½ inches
110 g
—
4 oz
125 ml
—
4 fl oz (½ pt)
5 cm
—
2 inches
150 g
—
5 oz
150 ml
—
5 fl oz (¼ pt)
6 cm
—
2 ¼ inches
175 g
—
6 oz
200 ml
—
7 fl oz (⅓ pt)
7.5 cm
—
2 ½ inches
200 g
—
7 oz
250 ml
—
9 fl oz
9 cm
—
3 inches
225 g
—
8 oz
300 ml
—
10 fl oz (½ pt)
10 cm
—
3 ½ inches
250 g
—
9 oz
350 ml
—
12 fl oz
11.5 cm
—
4 ½ inches
275 g
—
10 oz
400 ml
—
14 fl oz
12.5 cm
—
5 inches
A mylase
Banneton
350 g
—
12 oz
425 ml
—
15 fl oz
15 cm
—
6 inches
A natural enzyme found in flour
A wicker proofing basket,
Heavy-weight linen fabric
400 g
—
14 oz
450 ml
—
16 fl oz
17 cm
—
6 ½ inches
450 g
—
1 lb
500 ml
—
18 fl oz
18 cm
—
7 inches
that breaks down starch into
usually lined with heavy linen.
(also known as a baker’s cloth)
500 g
—
18 oz
600 ml
—
20 fl oz (1 pt)
20.5 cm
—
8 inches
fermentable sugars. These are
Used for proofing*, particularly
used for proofing*. Folds in
600 g
—
1 ¼ lb
700 ml
—
1 ¼ pints
23 cm
—
9 inches
then mainly converted into carbon
for very wet doughs.
the cloth keep the pieces
700 g
—
1 ½ lb
850 ml
—
1 ½ pints
24 cm
—
9 ½ inches
900 g
—
2 lb
1 liter
—
1 ¾ pints
25.5 cm
—
10 inches
1 kg
—
2 ¼ lb
1.2 liters
—
2 pints
30.5 cm
—
11 inches
1.1 kg
—
2 ½ lb
1.5 liters
—
2 ½ pints
1.3 kg
—
3 lb
1.8 liters
—
3 pints
1.5 kg
—
3 lb 5 oz
2 liters
—
3 ½ pints
1.6 kg
—
1.8 kg
Couche
dioxide (co2) and alcohol during
fermentation*.
of dough separate and prevent
Base Temperature
them from touching.
Used to calculate the temperature
Ash content
of dough after kneading, usually
crumb
This is a European method used
75–77°f (24–25°c), by adding
A term used to define the
to determine a flour’s type (“t”
the ambient (room) temperature
inside of the bread. By looking
3 ½ lb
grade). It represents the mineral
to the temperature of the flour
at the cell structure of the
—
4 lb
residue left after flour is burnt at
and water.
crumb, bakers can analyze the
2 kg
—
4 ½ lb
a temperature of 1652°f (900°c).
2.2 kg
—
5 lb
The higher the t grade, the more
Bassinage
husks (bran*) are present in the
A process whereby a quantity
flour, making it more “complete.”
of water is held in reserve and
Deflate
then added at the end of kneading
To release air from the dough
to loosen a very stiff dough.
during the first fermentation
Temperatures
Flours
All-purpose (plain) flour
—
Farine de blé t65
Organic all-purpose (plain) flour
—
Farine de blé t65 bio
Organic stone-ground fllour
—
Organic flour for rolls or baguettes
baker’s Lame
hydration, flour types, and yeast
amounts.
F°
C°
Gas
Description
Farine de meule t65 bio
225
110
¼
Very cool
mounted on a special handle, used
BAtard
by folding the dough over on itself.
—
Farine de blé t80
250
130
½
—
to score* dough prior to baking.
A torpedo-shaped loaf, shorter
It helps strengthen the gluten
Organic fine stone-ground flour
—
Farine de meule t80 bio
275
140
1
cool
than a baguette, but not as round
structure and helps the dough
Whole wheat flour
—
Farine de blé t110
300
150
2
—
Baker’s peel
as the old-style pain de deux livres.
rise more effectively during the
Coarse whole wheat flour
—
Farine de blé t150
325
170
3
very moderate
A wooden paddle used to slide
Coarse, organic whole wheat flour
—
Farine de blé t150 bio
350
180
4
moderate
Bouler
Light rye flour
—
Farine de seigle t80
375
190
5
—
dough—especially flatbreads and
Medium rye flour
—
Farine de seigle t130
400
200
6
moderately hot
pizzas—into the oven.
To shape dough into balls.
Fermentation
Dark rye flour
—
Farine de seigle t170
425
220
7
hot
The French boule (round loaf) gets
An organic chemical activity
Buckwheat flour
—
Farine de sarrasin
450
230
8
—
its name from this word.
whereby sugars contained in the
Fine cornmeal flour
—
Farine de mais
475
240
9
very hot
Fine semolina flour
—
Semoule de blé
Wheat bran
—
Son de blé
Chestnut flour
—
Farine de chataigne
Soya flour
—
Spelt flour
Einkorn flour
(first rise). This is achieved
A razor-sharp baker’s knife, usually
Baker’s Yeast
second fermentation* (proofing*).
flour are transformed in an
A single-celled micro-organism
(Saccharomyces cerevisiae)
Bran
anaerobic environment (without
used to leaven bread. It is capable
The outer husk or hull of cereals,
air) through the action of yeasts
of reproducing and multiplying
which can be removed or retained
and enzymes (see amylase*).
Farine de soya
very rapidly in sugar-rich
during grinding. The bran contains
In baking, the fermentation
—
Farine d’épautre
environments, converting sugars
the bulk of a grain’s fiber.
is “alcoholic,” in that the simple
—
Farine d’engrain (bio)
into carbon dioxide, which makes
sugars (glucose, maltose) are
the dough rise.
broken down by yeasts into carbon
dioxide and ethyl alcohol. Carbon
305
Conversions
Glossary
306
dioxide causes the dough to rise.
Leaven
Simmer
The fermentation comprises two
To incorporate a rising agent—
To cook in liquid just below the
stages: first rise* after kneading,
natural starter, yeast, baking
boiling point, around 208°f (98°c).
and proofing* after shaping.
powder, etc.—into a dough to make
Small bubbles rise through
it ferment and rise. Natural leavens,
the liquid and break the surface.
first resting
such as sourdough starters, use
Also known as autolyse, this is
natural “wild” yeasts in the dough
Stale
a pre-fermentation resting period,
to start the fermentation*.
Over time, moisture is gradually
prior to kneading. This process
Index
Page numbers in italics refer to the illustrations
lost from bread and it becomes
helps the gluten* develop more
Poolish
stale. As it does so, the bread
quickly, gives a more elastic
A pre-ferment (starter) made
becomes hard and both aroma
dough, and reduces the length
with a mix of equal parts of water
and flavor deteriorate.
of kneading time.
and flour. Used in conjunction
with fresh baker’s yeast.
First R ise
Steam injection
A process of introducing water
The first period of fermentation*
ProOF/proOFING time
into an oven to create steam
that begins after kneading
Known as l’apprêt, this is the
as the dough goes in to bake.
but before the dough is divided
second stage of fermentation,
This is achieved by splashing water
into pieces and shaped*. It is
which begins after the dough has
onto a preheated baking sheet.
done at room temperature in a
been portioned and shaped, and
draft-free spot and can include a
continues until it is put in the oven.
Steep
period in the refrigerator.
It is done at room temperature
To immerse and soak seeds
in a draft-free spot.
or fruit (usually dried) in a liquid
A
benoitons, raisin 248, 249, 303
to soften and rehydrate them.
acidity, dough 30
boule 48, 48–51, 293
candied orange peel
air bubbles 30
bow tie bread 90, 91, 294
green tea & orange loaf
orange bread
Glaze
To create a glossy appearance
R efresh
on the surface of a bread.
To keep a natural starter alive
Tourage
all-purpose (plain) flour 15
bowls 18
Often achieved by brushing the
by feeding it with flour and water.
A term used in French patisserie,
anaerobic micro-organisms 28
braided loaf 58, 62, 62–3, 293
C
176, 176–9, 299
dough with a lightly beaten egg
whereby butter is rolled out
apples
bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295
just prior to baking.
and folded into a dough to enrich
bread chart 293–305
and lighten the texture as it bakes.
ash content, flour 15
bread lames 18
cheese
ash goat cheese,
bread ring 86, 86–9, 294
fougasse with ash goat cheese
fougasse with black & green
fougasse with lardons
gorgonzola & walnut bread
pizza 228, 229–31, 302
R est
Gluten
To set a dough aside after kneading*
The elastic matter formed
or working. This allows the gluten*,
Well
in dough by the proteins (mainly
which will tighten as the dough
A large hollow created in the center
gliadins and glutenins), when
is worked, to relax.
of a mound of flour (on a work
kneaded with liquid. Found in
starter 26
fougasse with 220, 220–1, 302
surface or in a bowl) to contain
180, 180–1, 299
carbon dioxide 24, 28, 30, 38
bread rolls with lardons
& pecans 272, 273–5, 305
autolyse method 26
220, 220–1, 302
breadsticks 206, 286, 286–9, 305
B
brioche
olives 222, 223–5, 302
nearly all cereals used for bread.
Scoring
liquid ingredients. The dry
bacon
brioche loaf 246, 246–7, 303
Kneading* develops the glutens
The process of making shallow
ingredients are gradually worked
bread rolls with lardons
classic brioche 242, 243, 303
into strands that form
cuts or slashes, in various designs,
into the liquid, so as to create
a glutinaceous network. These
along the surface of the dough.
a smooth, well-blended paste.
fougasse with lardons
problems 44, 44
contain the carbon dioxide that
Usually done just prior to baking.
226, 227, 302
broa 136, 136–7, 296
expands during the fermentation
Scoring helps to control the way
bacteria, fermentation 24
buckwheat flour
and subsequent baking.
the bread rises as it bakes.
bagels 138, 138–41, 297
buckwheat ciabatta
210, 210–11, 301
chocolate
Hydration
Seam
organic baguette 148, 148–9, 298
organic buckwheat bread
hazelnut & chocolate rolls
The ratio of water to flour
The point at which the edges
petite baguette 66, 66–7, 293
in a given recipe.
of the dough—both in a ball
poppy-seed baguettes 150, 150–1
bulgur wheat
pain au chocolat
and a long shape—meet to form
pre-shaping 32
a closure, or seam.
problems 45
buns, sesame 142, 142–3, 297
Viennese bread
mini brioches 244, 244–5
& pecans 272, 273–5, 305
baguettes 42, 54, 54–5, 293
Knead
226, 227, 302
174, 174–5, 299
chestnut flour bread, gluten-free
122, 122–3, 296
chevron, scoring dough 41
158, 158–9, 298
280, 281–3, 305
pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296
254–6, 255–7, 304
sesame-seed baguettes 150, 150–1
butter
by hand or in a stand mixer,
Shaping
shaping 36–7, 36–7
brioche loaf 246, 246–7, 303
ciabatta
to evenly blend the ingredients
The process which gives the dough
baker’s cloths 18
classic brioche 242, 243, 303
buckwheat ciabatta
and to develop the gluten.
its form. Often done in two stages,
baker’s peel 64, 64–5, 293
croissants 250–2, 250–3, 304
Kneading* by hand involves pushing
but it is the second, more precise
baker’s yeast 16, 28
hazelnut & butter bread
mixed-seed ciabatta
and pulling the dough on a work
shaping, that creates the final
baking bread 42
surface, turning it and shaping*
appearance of the baked loaf.
baking stones 18, 42
pain au chocolat
plain ciabatta
pains aux raisins
pumpkin-seed ciabatta
walnut & butter bread
round ciabatta 214, 214–15
186, 186–9, 300
classic brioche 242, 243, 303
The process of working a dough,
it to aerate the dough and help
bannetons 18
it form a glutinaceous network.
basil bread 216, 216–17, 301
As the structure changes,
baskets, proofing 18
the dough becomes smoother and
batard 52, 52–3, 293
more elastic.
shaping 34, 35
307
Glossary
Index
236, 237–9, 303
210, 210–11, 301
172, 172–3, 299
208, 208–9, 301
254–6, 255–7, 304
202, 202–5, 301
264–6, 265–7, 304
308
212, 212–13, 301
classic organic bread
154, 154–7, 298
E
grignettes 19
mixers 18
eggs
grissini 206, 288
cooling bread 42
brioche loaf 246, 246–7, 303
cornmeal
classic brioche 242, 243, 303
broa 136, 136–7, 296
einkorn flour 15
ham
cornmeal loaf 96, 96–7, 295
organic einkorn bread
gluten-free corn bread
164, 164–5, 298
hazelnuts
120, 120–1, 296
ekmek 130, 130–1, 296
mixing bowls 19
H
N
pizza 228, 229–31, 302
hazelnut & butter bread
see organic breads
country loaf 108, 108–9, 295
couronne bread ring 86, 86–9, 294
energy, kneading dough 20
crc (Culture Raisonée
epi 58, 60, 60–1, 293
hedgehog cut, scoring dough 41
history, yeast bread 28
et Controlée) standard 14, 15
pre-shaping 32
172, 172–3, 299
nicking dough 38
hazelnut & chocolate rolls
nuts
280, 281–3, 305
organic stone-ground bread
rational farming 14–15
organic whole wheat bread
rising 24, 26, 30
rolls 269–89
poppy-seed baguettes 150, 150–1
bread rolls with lardons &
sesame-seed baguettes
breadsticks 286, 286–9, 305
hazelnut & chocolate rolls
150, 150–1
organic flours 14–15
280, 281–3, 305
Kamut® & seaweed rolls
mixed fruit & nut crowns
P
192, 192–5, 300
pain au chocolat 254–6, 255–7, 304
Paris buns 234, 235, 303
see also hazelnuts;
pain de méteil 116
pistolets 276, 276–7, 305
pecan nuts; walnuts
pains aux raisins 264–6, 265–7, 304
poppy-seed rolls 270, 271, 305
panini all’olio 206
vanilla rolls 258, 259, 304
pans 19
walnut & raisin rolls
278, 278–9, 305
equipment 18–19, 18–19
honey
ethanol 28
ekmek 130, 130–1, 296
honey bread 184, 184–5, 300
O
pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296
oil-enriched breads 201–31
Pasteur, Louis 28
basil bread 216, 216–17, 301
pastries
buckwheat ciabatta
220, 220–1, 302
fougasse with lardons
F
226, 227, 302
fancy loaves 58–62, 59–63, 293
husks, wheat 15
croissants 250–2, 250–3, 304
farming, rational 14–15
cross shape, scoring dough 38
fermentation 24–31
I
crosshatch, scoring dough 39
pre-fermentation methods 26
incising dough 38
crowns, mixed fruit & nut
stages of 30
ingredients 16
192, 192–5, 300
fermented dough method 26
crust, problems 45
ficelle 58–9, 59, 293
K
Culture Raisonée et Controlée
Kamut® flour 15, 102
(crc) standard 14, 15
currants
stone-ground bread with
currants 168, 168–9, 298
cuttlefish ink bread 198, 198–9, 300
pre-shaping 32
fig bread 182, 182–3, 299
Kamut® bread
220, 220–1, 302
daisy loaf 76, 76–7, 294
dehydrated starter 16
digital probe thermometers 18
double slash, scoring dough 40
dough
see sweet pastries & breads
round ciabatta 214, 214–15
210, 210–11, 301
pastry cream 264
round loaves 42
fougasse with ash goat cheese
pecan nuts
220, 220–1, 302
rustic loaf 68, 68–9, 294
bread rolls with lardons
& pecans 272, 273–5, 305
fougasse with black & green
shaping 34–5, 34–5
rye flour
olives 222, 223–5, 302
petite baguette 66, 66–7, 293
bow tie bread 90, 91, 294
fougasse with lardons
pH scale 30
bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295
226, 227, 302
pistachio loaf 262, 262–3
country loaf 108, 108–9, 295
mixed-seed ciabatta
pistolets 276, 276–7, 305
couronne bread ring
208, 208–9, 301
pithivier, scoring dough 39
86, 86–9, 294
pizza 228, 229–31, 302
pizza 228, 229–31, 302
daisy loaf 76, 76–7, 294
Khorasan wheat flour see
plain ciabatta 202, 202–5, 301
pizza stones 19, 42
honey bread 184, 184–5, 300
pumpkin-seed ciabatta
plain flour 15
maslin loaf 116, 116–19, 296
212, 212–13, 301
le pointage 24, 26
pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296
round ciabatta 214, 214–15
polka bread 56, 56–7, 293
raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303
sun-dried tomato bread
rye bread 112, 112–15, 295
218, 218–19, 302
poolish method 26
Swiss “cross” bread
walnut & raisin rolls
zigzag bread 84, 84–5, 294
Kamut® flour
fougasse with ash goat cheese
284, 284–5, 305
rosemary focaccia 124, 124–7, 296
100, 100–1, 103, 295
fougasse
D
278, 278–9, 305
flours 14–15
focaccia, rosemary 124, 124–7, 296
Kamut® & seaweed rolls
firm starter 24
“first mill” loaf 94, 94–5
pecans 272, 273–5, 305
ovens 42
crème fraîche
fougasse with ash goat cheese
130, 131
with currants 168, 168–9, 298
166, 167, 298
naturally-leavened breads
electric stand mixers 19
molds 19
couches 19
kneading dough 23, 23
kneading dough 23, 23
kneading 20–3, 21–3
fougasse with black & green
L
olives 222, 223–5, 302
lactic bacteria 24
fougasse with lardons
lardons
olive oil 206, 206
poppy seeds
226, 227, 302
bread rolls with lardons
poppy-seed baguettes 150, 150–1
& pecans 272, 273–5, 305
olives
poppy-seed rolls 270, 271, 305
fougasse with lardons
fougasse with black & green
portemanteau 78, 79–81, 294
olives 222, 223–5, 302
pre-fermentation methods 26
see also oil-enriched breads
scoring dough 39
144, 144–5, 297
284, 284–5, 305
acidity 30
four slashes, scoring dough 40
fermentation 24–31
freezing dough 34
final shaping 34–7, 34–7
fresh baker’s yeast 16
freezing 34
kneading 20–3, 21–3
G
pre-shaping 32–3, 32–3
une gâche 64
long loaves
problems 45
gluten 15
storing 42
proofing 30
gluten-free chestnut flour bread
pre-shaping 32
orange peel
rising 30
pumpkin-seed ciabatta
scoring dough 38, 38–41, 44, 44, 45
scoring 38, 38–41, 44, 44, 45
122, 122–3, 296
gluten-free cornbread
dough cutters 19
120, 120–1, 296
226, 227, 302
orange-flower water
pre-shaping 32–3, 32–3
liquid sourdough starter 16, 24–5
green tea & orange loaf
proofing 30
Saccharomyces cerevisiae 28
176, 176–9, 299
proofing baskets 18
salt 16
Pullman loaf 260, 260–1, 304
sausage cut, scoring dough 41
pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296
scales 18
M
maslin loaf 116, 116–19, 296
fougasse with ash goat cheese
measuring cups 19
220, 220–1, 302
méteil 116
192, 192–5, 300
golden raisins
milk
organic stone-ground bread
pains aux raisins
264–6, 265–7, 304
Pullman loaf 260, 260–1, 304
pains aux raisins 264–6, 265–7, 304
raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303
walnut & raisin rolls
grapes
284, 284–5, 305
dry yeast 16
gorgonzola & walnut bread
174, 174–5, 299
Paris buns 234, 235, 303
mini brioches 244, 244–5
176, 176–9, 299
309
208, 208–9, 301
Index
Quinn, Bob 102
278, 278–9, 305
seeds
mixed-seed bread
mixed-seed ciabatta
264–6, 265–7, 304
pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296
raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303
see also poppy seeds;
walnut & raisin rolls
organic buckwheat bread
raisins
158, 158–9, 298
organic einkorn bread
164, 164–5, 298
organic spelt bread
160, 160–3, 298
mixed-seed ciabatta
Q
154, 154–7, 298
R
mixed-seed bread 98, 98–9, 295
green tea & orange loaf
classic organic bread
organic baguette
seaweed
Kamut® & seaweed rolls
148, 148–9, 298
mixed fruit & nut crowns
192, 192–5, 300
starter 26
212, 212–13, 301
176, 176–9, 299
goat cheese
with currants 168, 168–9, 298
green tea & orange loaf
organic breads 147–69
dried fruit
mixed fruit & nut crowns
orange bread 180, 180–1, 299
macatia bread 128, 128–9, 296
dough scrapers 18
S
levain liquide 16, 24–5
98, 98–9, 295
208, 208–9, 301
pains aux raisins
284, 284–5, 305
sesame seeds
semolina bread 106, 106–7, 295
organic stone-ground bread
raspberries
sesame seeds
152, 152–3, 298
Index
ekmek with dried raspberries
310
ekmek with black sesame
seeds 130, 131
sugar syrup 264, 266
U
sesame buns 142, 142–3, 297
sun-dried tomato bread
unbleached flours 15
sesame-seed baguettes
150, 150–1
sweet pastries & breads 233–67
sesame-seed bread
brioche loaf 246, 246–7, 303
vanilla rolls 258, 259, 304
196, 196–7, 300
classic brioche 242, 243, 303
Viennese bread 236, 237–9, 303
218, 218–19, 302
V
shaping
croissants 250–2, 250–3, 304
final shaping 34–7, 34–7
mini brioches 244, 244–5
pre-shaping 32–3, 32–3
pain au chocolat
walnuts
254–6, 255–7, 304
gorgonzola & walnut bread
walnut & butter bread
walnut & raisin rolls
single slash, scoring dough 40
slashing dough 38, 40
pains aux raisins
264–6, 265–7, 304
sourdough starter,
W
174, 174–5, 299
Paris buns 234, 235
soy flour
pistachio loaf 262, 262–3
gluten-free chestnut flour
Pullman loaf 260, 260–1, 304
bread 122, 122–3, 296
raisin benoitons 248, 249, 303
water 16
weighing scales 19
fermentation 24–5
186, 186–9, 300
284, 284–5, 305
specialty breads 93–145
sugar bread 240, 240–1, 303
bagels 138, 138–41, 297
vanilla rolls 258, 259, 304
wheat
bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295
Viennese bread
composition of 15
broa 136, 136–7, 296
236, 237–9, 303
flour 14
cornmeal loaf 96, 96–7, 295
swirl, scoring dough 39
Kamut® wheat 102
country loaf 108, 108–9, 295
Swiss “cross” bread 144, 144–5, 297
ekmek 130, 130–1, 296
“first mill” loaf 94, 94–5
gluten-free chestnut flour
tabatiere 70, 70–3, 294
bread 122, 122–3, 296
Tacoun, Norbert 128
gluten-free corn bread
tea
120, 120–1, 296
T
Kamut® bread 100, 100–1, 103, 295
wheat germ 15
wheat bran
bran loaf 110, 110–11, 295
whole wheat bread
104, 104–5, 166, 167, 295, 298
“wild” yeasts 24, 28
green tea & orange loaf
176, 176–9, 299
Y
macatia bread 128, 128–9, 296
temperatures
yeast 16, 28, 28–9
maslin loaf 116, 116–19, 296
fermentation 24, 30
fermentation 24
mixed-seed bread 98, 98–9, 295
kneading dough 20
pre-fermentation 26
pumpernickel 132, 132–5, 296
oven 42
“wild” yeasts 24, 28
rosemary focaccia
thermometers 18
yeast pre-ferment method 26
124, 124–7, 296
tomatoes
rye bread 112, 112–15, 295
pizza 228, 229–31, 302
Z
semolina bread 106, 106–7, 295
sun-dried tomato bread
zigzag bread 84, 84–5, 294
sesame buns 142, 142–3, 297
Swiss “cross” bread
traditional breads 47–91
144, 144–5, 297
baguettes 54, 54–5, 293
whole wheat bread
baker’s peel 64, 64–5, 293
104, 104–5, 295
batard 52, 52–3, 293
spelt flour 15
boule 48, 48–51, 293
organic spelt bread
bow tie bread 90, 91, 294
160, 160–3, 298
braided loaf 58, 62, 62–3, 293
couronne bread ring
starch 15
daisy loaf 76, 76–7, 294
split loaf 74, 75, 294
218, 218–19, 302
86, 86–9, 294
square, scoring dough 39
starters
epi 58, 60, 60–1, 293
dehydrated starter 16
ficelle 58–9, 59, 293
fermentation 24–5
petite baguette 66, 66–7, 293
liquid starter 16
polka bread 56, 56–7, 293
steam 19, 42
portemanteau 78, 79–81, 294
stone-baked bread 42
rustic loaf 68, 68–9, 294
stone-ground bread
split loaf 74, 75, 294
152, 152–3, 298
tabatiere 70, 70–3, 294
the twist 82, 82–3, 294
zigzag bread 84, 84–5, 294
stone-ground bread with
currants 168, 168–9, 298
storing bread 42
turmeric bread 190, 190–1, 300
sugar bread 240, 240–1, 303
the twist 82, 82–3, 294
311
Index
The Larousse Book of Bread
Éric Kayser
Step-by-step home baking recipes from France’s foremost
culinary resource, Larousse, and Parisian master baker Éric
Kayser.
The Larousse Book of Bread features more than 80 home baking
recipes for breads and pastries from two of France’s most trusted
authorities. From traditional Boule and Cob and specialty Ryes
and Multigrains, to gluten-free Organic Sour Doughs and Spelts
and sweet Brioches, Kayser’s easy-to-follow recipes feature
detailed instructions and step-by-step photography.
No matter if you are creating quick and simple Farmhouse Breads
or gourmet treats like Croissants and Viennese Chocolate Bread,
with its unique structure and a comprehensive guide to
techniques, ingredients and equipment, The Larousse Book of
Bread is the ideal baking resource for both home cooks and
professionals.
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