as - Solitaire Magazine

ASIA PACIFIC EDITION
horology
White Watches
Minute Repeaters
regalia
Louis Vuitton’s Acte-V
Scarves & Earrings
Bags & Bangles
Floral Jewels
79
HZPHU´HPY
Boucheron’s
Bleu de Jodhpur
Lotus Arts de Vivre
Nghi Nguyen
PLUS:
Alicia Vikander
JewelFest 2015
October — November 2015
The
Oriental Edition
MIALUCE COLLECTION.
Bangkok - SCINTILLA GIOIELLI
Kuala Lumpur - SUEN JEWELLERS
Jakarta - CROWN JEWELLERY
Singapore - ATELIER ONE
Brisbane - ANTHONYS FINE JEWELLERY
Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City - DOJI GOLD & GEMS GROUP JSC
Hong Kong - AG CREATION LTD
Taipei - CYRANO
SIGN IN
R everse
P hilosophy
L
ASIAN
JEWELLERY
DESIGNERS
ARE GAINING
TRACTION AND
VISIBILITY, AND
NOT ONLY FOR
THEIR CULTURAL
RELEVANCE
OR FAMILIAR
AESTHETICS
ines of Asian shoppers waiting in front of Europe’s
luxury temples, eager to buy handbags to bring home.
Asian shoppers crowding into duty free emporiums
throughout the world, buying watches on impulses
shaped by brand perceptions. The philosophy that many Asian cultures
hold dear that ostentation is a good thing, to be emulated and admired.
Face rules supreme.
The trend to buy and show European luxury brands continues,
despite the occasional slowdown or — as in the case of China —
Government intervention. Yet, amidst all of Asia’s clamour for the latest
in foreign branded ultra chic, another trend is much less visible, yet as
important as it is enduring. The emergence of Asian brands, styles, and
peer recognition.
My friends in the art world were the first to point it out. Chinese art
and antique collectors are turning away from the Picassos and Monets,
and are buying Chinese art. Vietnamese art buyers are hunting down
authentic Vietnamese art, often buried under mountains of copies
and imitations. The same goes for Indonesia, home to an astonishing
amount of wealth, as it does for Thailand and Malaysia. The age of
Asian art is here to stay.
Important for us is that this trend has now started to enrich our very
own world — jewellery. Asian jewellery designers are gaining traction
and visibility, and not only for their cultural relevance or familiar
aesthetics. They are becoming cool and coveted and collectable. The
irony is that often they have to first live and work in Europe or the
US, before reaching that coveted place on Asia’s shopping lists. It’s the
ultimate proof of “The Prophet At Home” syndrome.
The other irony is that European jewellery brands, too, are now
presenting Asian-inspired collections. They have “discovered” Jade,
the ultimate Asian jewellery item, once seen as nothing more than
stuff from auntie’s drawer. Suddenly, Jade is fresh, contemporary, and
fashionable.
Be that as it may, read more about it in this edition of Solitaire,
celebrating Asia’s influences on the colourful, creative, and exciting
world of fine jewellery. We worked hard to round up the latest in Asian
jewellery in the hope you will enjoy and appreciate Asia’s new creativity
and style.
Rainer Sigel
Managing Editor
8
CONTENT
52
ontents
44
8
SIGN IN
Reverse Philosophy
14
TEAM
16
BOUTIQUE
New – Hot – Exclusive
STYLE
38
PURSES ON FIRE
Crimson bags cut a striking
ng figure
40
THE DANISH GIRL FROM SWEDEN
WEDEN
Alicia Vikander is making
g the world take notice
44
THE CALL OF ANYWHERE ELSE
Fashion’s cultural balancee for Resort 2016
46
TRENDING OBSIDIAN
Ebony elegance at recent red
d carpett parades
d
64
GREEN PIECE
Let emerald shade sway your wardrobe
74
SASSY STILETTOS
Glamour shoes to add spring in your step
40
94
DRAPED IN ELEGANCE
Cozy up to the season’s gorgeous scarves and earrings
96
PRIMARY INSTINCT
Explore the duality of crimson and indigo shades
DESIGN
28
THE ART OF ART NOUVEAU
34
OF RAJAHS & ROYALS
Aesthetic impressions from an era in transition
India’s maharajahs celebrated in Boucheron’s
new jewels
52
THE PERFECT GETAWAY
Louie Vuitton’s new collection inspired by
world travel
66
POETS, DREAMERS & VISIONARY WARRIORS
Nghi Nguyen’s masterpieces transcend culture
102
38
10
GILDED ACCOLADES
JewelFest 2015’s tribute to Singapore’s Golden Jubilee
KNOWLEDGE
90
THE MARGARITE SPECTRUM
Dive into the seductive enchantments of pearls
CONTENT
78
ontents
FACETS
76
DIGITS OF ELEGANCE
GANCE
Statement ringss that pack a splendid punch
78
THE WINGS OF PARADISE
ARADISE
Bird-inspired jewels
els to swee
sweep you off
your feet
82
A MOST ENLIGHTENED COLOUR
Yellow diamonds in exquisite collar charmers
86
PETALS IMMORTALISED
Floral nuances represented in romantic
jewels
INTERVIEW
56
LIGHT FANTASTIC
Lotus Arts de Vivre’s unique luxury jewels
TIMELESS
60
IVORY DELIGHT
Embrace autumn with these versatile
white watches
70
DIALS FOR A CAUSE
Only Watch charity auction presents
unique timepieces
98
SOUNDING OUT A LEGACY
Recent minute repeaters showcase
horological prowess
46
90
REVIEW
106
GOLD ALCHEMY
VicenzaOro’s tribute to the industry’s design
and creative excellence
108
BEAUTIES AND THE ROUGH
Starlet gems that stole the limelight at
SIJE 2015
110
PHOTO SHOOT
Eastern Élan
ATELIER
120
130
GALAS
HOROSCOPE
Our bimonthly forecast
132
60
12
RING GUIDE
Where size matters
134
136
SHOW DIARY
JEWEL BOX
Dashi Namdakov’s Garuda bracelet
TEAM
David Yip is a keen observer of lifestyle and
fashion for three decades. He has written widely
for magazines and newspapers in the region, and
is the publisher of several award-winning books.
He travels extensively, searching for trends and
new developments in the world of fine living.
CONTENT
MANAGING EDITOR Rainer Sigel
ASSISTANT EDITOR Maripet Ledesma Poso
ASSISTANT EDITOR Koh Chuin Ying
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Syahmin Ritzwan
EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Katherine Arteche
PRE-PRESS Maggie Shi
MASTHEAD Sylvia Weimer / Spacelab Design Sydney
Desmond began his career as a graphic designer,
moving from there into art directing, especially
magazine covers and fashion spreads. His ability
to transform important faces into extraordinary
characters has yielded a highly successful career.
Desmond had the pleasure of styling celebrities like
actress Michelle Yeoh, supermodel Eva Herzigová,
Hong Kong actor Francis Ng, and American singersong writer Rachael Yamagata.
CONTRIBUTORS
Shirley Moskow, Aniko Navai, Nina Hald, Astrid Colley, Jennifer Henricus, David Yip,
Preeta Agarwal, Carol Lee, Sam Koh, Olive Cuenca, Charmaine Tay, Sophia Watson,
Desmond Lim, Ching, Dollei Seah, Greg Oh, Joey Tan
COMPANY
PUBLISHER Rainer Sigel
MANAGING DIRECTOR Michelle Tay
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT MANAGER Gynn Lee
BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT ASSISTANT MANAGER Edna Chai
CIRCULATION & PRODUCTION MANAGER Caroline Rayney
OFFICE MANAGER Winnie Lim
MARKETING ASSISTANT Anne Goh
Based in India, Preeta Agarwal writes about fine
jewellery. She applies her expertise in jewellery
consultancy, photography and jewellery branding.
In this issue, Agarwal shares with us the romance
of love gemstones.
CONTACT
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F: +65 6273 0632
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COPYRIGHT NOTICE
(L-R:) The talented team behind this issue’s photo shoot: Syahmin
Ritzwan, Ching, Miriam, Desmond Lim, Koh Chuin Ying, Dollei Seah
All rights, including copyright, in the content of this publication are owned or controlled
by Oriental Publishing Pte Ltd, Singapore. You are not permitted to copy, broadcast,
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COVER PHOTO CREDITS
PHOTOGRAPHY Ching / GreenPlasticSoldiers
STYLING Desmond Lim
STYLING ASSISTANT Joey Tan
MAKEUP Dollei Seah using Tom Ford
HAIR Greg Oh
MODEL Miriam / Mannequin
ON MODEL
JEWELLERY Edward Chiu
ATELIER OPENER
Image courtesy of Chaumet
14
Red Spinel
BOROS
Available at Leading Jewellers
September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair CEC Grand Hall Stand D 12
Singapore Jewelfest
Jewellery Arabia, Bahrain
www.kriegernet.com
BOUTIQUE
DROP
BY
DROP
MONO
Crossover
Roberto Bravo’s new collection is inspired by a timeless and
essential fashion pattern, ‘Pied de Poule’. The black and white
checkered detail uses a special colouring technique that is seen
throughout its pieces. Necklaces, rings, earrings, and bracelets are
decorated with precious stones like blue topaz, citrine, emerald,
ruby, and amethyst. www.robertobravo.com
TIME
IS
GOLD
Audemars Piguet exalts the
status of wealth in the 18k
yellow gold Royal Oak ExtraThin The Hour Glass timepiece.
Dedicated to The Hour Glass,
the sapphire crystal caseback
beauitfully exhibits a personalised
oscillating weight with an engraved
hour glass. To complement its gold
entirety, the “petite tapisserie” forest
green dial gives it a beautiful contrast.
www.audemarspiguet.com
16
Drop-cut emeralds elegantly hang from
Damiani’s Light Rain earrings, allowing their vivid
green brilliance to stand out against the full pavé
of black and white diamonds. The smooth curves
and cascade of jewels turn the earrings into haute
accessories. www.damiani.com
WATER
BORN
Dejewel Galleria’s Oriental Dancing
Gold Fish is fashioned after the chinese
characters “ԥ᱓” (shuang yu) which
symbolises a pair of fish. Sought to
represent good fortune, luck, and
happiness in marriage, the 18k white
and yellow gold necklace is a jewelled
illustration. Green sapphires adorn the
seaweed, white diamonds frame the
water bubbles, rubies set the eyes, and
yellow diamonds make up the scales.
www.dejewelgalleria.com
CITY
CHARMS
As part of the New York collection, Harry Winston
presents the Central Park ring set in platinum
and 18k yellow gold. Keeping the design simple yet
chic, the three-stone ring is embellished with a 2.13ct
emerald-cut emerald as the center stone, surrounded by emeraldcut and tapered baguette diamonds. www.harrywinston.com
Bangkok, Baechtold, Tel +662 939 7028 30 / Hong Kong, King Fook, Tel +852 2526 6786
Kuala Lumpur, DeGem, Tel +603 2282 3618 / Nagoya, Sunmenard, Tel +81 52 962 4755
Shenzen, Frank & Label, Tel +86 0755 2658 0852 / Singapore, DeGem, Tel +65 6688 7032
victor-mayer.com
It took 125 years
to become
so timeless.
BOUTIQUE
CLASSIC
SYMMETRY
Bold yet beautiful,
these white gold and
jade earrings from La
Putri could make for a
statement piece. Set in
white and black gold in
an angular design with
18 round diamonds, the
jewels’ star features are the
jade drops that effortlessly
add colour to any outfit.
www.laputri.com
Streaming
Elegance
Chained
Melody
Italian jeweller Maskada incorporates a
beautiful blend of white and pink gold in
this statement necklace. The asymmetrical
round centrepiece creates a mesmerising
illusion of pink gold woven atop brilliantcut and baguette diamonds. White gold
chains extend from the necklace, finishing
with rose gold-shaped hearts with a
diamond centre. www.maskadagioielli.com
GEOMETRY
IN PLAY
Jennifer Lopez wore Butani diamond bracelets and
diamond front-back earrings while attending American
Idol auditions in Little Rock, Arkansas. The white and
pink gold collection added a sparkle to the star’s pastelcoloured ensemble. www.butani.com
The 33mm Dior Grand Soir Origami
watch features an iridescent motherof-pearl marquetry dial surrounded by
triangle and baguette-helix-cut pink
sapphires which embellish the bezel.
Geometric lines are skillfully carved
into the dial, resembling traditional
japanese decorative art and creating a
hypnotic visual effect. www.dior.com
2QWKH&Xij
Have luck by your side with this pair of
Joyous Buddha cufflinks by The Jewel
Box. As it is believed that no two jades
are the same, each cufflink bears a
unique carving of each Buddha. The
natural bi-colour ‘A’ jade is a marbled
mixture of transluscent colours, framed
with black onyx, and mounted in yellow
gold. www.thejewelbox.com
18
BOUTIQUE
Refined
Elegance
Italian jeweller Zydo
keeps it clean yet ornate
in this bewitching pair
of sparkling earrings.
Using only pear-cut
white diamonds, the
intricate ensemble
of precious stones
makes the piece shine
elegantly. www.zydo.it
Indigo
Intrigue
Dehres introduces an exquisite necklace that features cushion-shaped No
Heat Burmese sapphires with pear-shaped and marquise-cut diamonds.
Paired with a matching set of earrings, the Royal Blue Velvet necklace
commands a well-deserved attention. www.dehres.com
Warm Cascade
A stunning pair of 5.77ct yellow drop
diamonds gracefully fall from deftly placed
9.32ct pear- and round-shaped diamonds in
Gems Pavilion’s Whimsical Oriental earrings.
Set in 18k white gold, a white diamond
waterfall cascades down the earrings,
shimmering in the light and capturing a sense
of enchantment. www.gemspavilion.com
ROCOCO
German jeweller
Schreiner tosses
up a medley of
sapphires and
diamonds in this
three-piece jewellery suite. Rose-cut diamonds and
pear-shaped sapphires make up the earrings, necklace,
and watch bracelet in this collection. The watch’s face is
pear-shaped, decorated with a diamond dial and bezel.
www.schreiner-jewellery.com
A Time to Bloom WAVES
Swiss watchmaker Bedat & Co highlights the power of nature in this
Limited Edition Ref. 728.010.107 timepiece. The white opaline dial
is covered in a roseate floral motif, which shows an array of flowers
escaping a delicate grid. The timepiece is finished with a stainless steel
case accompanied by a rolled-edge satin strap. www.bedat.com
20
BOUTIQUE
SPIRAL
BEAUTY
The Margherita Collection by Moraglione is the epitome of the modern
woman. Translated from the word “daisy” and named after a 19th Century
Italian Queen, this spiral rose gold bracelet beautifully embraces a woman’s
wrist. It is adorned with white diamonds and a cherry blossom-inspired
centrepiece. www.moraglione.com
STRAND
APPEAL
Van Cleef & Arpels charms with a new Magic Alhambra
collection with transformable long necklaces. Available
in four variations — mother-of-pearl, onyx, carnelian, or
diamonds, each necklace bears symbols of luck for every
season and occasion. Set in yellow and white gold, these
necklaces can be worn in multiple ways — as a bracelet,
double-strand necklace, or a long necklace on its own.
www.vancleefarpels.com
Divine &
Delicate
Larry Jewelry is proud to reveal the
Barney Cheng collection, designed
by Hong Kong couturier Barney
Cheng. Inspired by traditional Chinese
landscape paintings, the Chinese Chic
earrings are encrusted with 487 round
brilliant diamonds and 23 round fancy
pink diamonds. Dainty and feminine,
these earrings set in 18k white gold
emanate a distinctively youthful aura.
www.larryjewelry.com
22
CELESTIAL
STAR
Lili Diamonds fashioned
supernovas into precious stones
with this bejewelled pair of 18k pink
and white gold earrings. The artistic
curvatures are laden with 162 pink and 132
white round diamonds, set to make one feel like
a star. www.lilidiamonds.com
As part of their Voyage & Ornaments
collection, Vacheron Constantin
features a 1925 lady’s brooch watch
adorned with Japanese-inspired
decoration in diamonds, rubies, coral,
mother-of-pearl, and black enamel. Encased
in yellow gold, this piece beautifully and
accurately represents the Orient.
www.vacheron-constantin.com
Empress Voyager
www.lilijewelry.com | [email protected] | [email protected]
is a trademark and proprietary design of Lili Diamonds
DESIGN
MAKER & MUSE EXHIBITION
by Shirley Moskow
The
rt
of
Art
9ouveau
Aesthetic impressions from an era in transition
28
Octopus Waist Clasp, c.
1900 by Wilhelm Lucas
von Cranach (German,
1861-1918), Collection
of Richard H. Driehaus.
Photograph by John A.
Faier, 2014, © The Richard
H. Driehaus Museum
FROM TOP
Chrysanthemum
Pendant/Brooch, c.
1900 by René Lalique
(French, 1860-1945),
Collection of Richard H.
Driehaus. © 2014 Artists
Rights Society (ARS),
New York/ADAGP,
Paris. Photograph by
John A. Faier, 2014, ©
The Richard H. Driehaus
Museum
A
round the beginning
of the 20th century,
jewellers started
making ornaments
that depicted insects and blossoms. Metal
moulded into snake bracelets coiled around
a woman’s arm. Jewelled insects paraded
on her lapels. At the same time, these artists
experimented with new techniques to bring
to life traditional subjects as the sinuous
line of a bare branch, a woman’s flowing
hair, and the female form.
The graceful pins and adornments
crafted by talented artisans made all things
beautiful. A pendant by Berlin painter and
goldsmith Wilhelm von Cranach shows two
ugly fish, face-to-face, holding a large opal
octopus between their profiles. A brooch by
French jeweller René Lalique called Winged
Sylph is a delicate, pastel-coloured, fairy-like
figure who stands on the back of a gold
animal that resembles a snarling wolf at one
end and a raging eagle’s head at the other.
These are among the more than
250 unique jewelled objects — bracelets,
brooches, rings, cloak closings, necklaces
and tiaras — being featured in the Maker
and Muse: Women and Twentieth Century
Art Jewelry exhibition, on view through
January 5, 2016 at the Richard H. Driehaus
Museum, Chicago. The international
collection comprises jewellery from the late
Galleon Pendant, c. 1915
by Henry Charles Barker
(English, 1850-1950),
Collection of Richard H.
Driehaus. Photograph
by John A. Faier, 2014,
© The Richard H.
Driehaus Museum
Brooch, c. 1895-1914
by Mrs W.H. (Elinor)
Klapp (American,
1845-1915). Collection
of the Bronson Family.
Photograph by
Firestone and Parson
19th and early 20th centuries. Most
of the pieces are so interesting and
timeless that a stylish woman may
wear them a century later and
still feel confident that she’s very
much in fashion.
Maker and Muse also pays tribute
to several women jewellery artists.
Society was in flux at the turn of the
century, and the social changes affected
women’s roles. A woman had more options.
She might pursue a less traditional path.
It was even possible for some to establish
their own studios. Nevertheless, even some
women who walked this pioneering route
were reluctant to compromise their privacy.
Or perhaps, their husbands didn’t want the
wives’ names made public. Whatever the
reason, married women artists often hid
behind their husbands’ names. They signed
their work with “Mrs”.
An American, Mrs W.H. (Elinor) Klapp
More than 250 unique objects are featured in
the Maker and Muse: Women and Twentieth Century Art Jewelry
exhibition at the Richard H. Driehaus Museum
29
DESIGN
created a finely crafted gold brooch that
resembles a pair of feathered wings. Its
centrepiece is a pale blue cameo of a floating
goddess Victory, holding a laurel wreath aloft
in her outstretched arms. An Englishwoman,
Mrs Philip (Charlotte) Newman, crafted
a fine gold necklace with six bright
aquamarines simply chained together in a
loose triangle at the wearer’s throat.
The jewellery in the exhibition is in the
style the French showed at the 1900 Paris
International Exposition and famously
christened Art Nouveau, the new art. Based
on simple lines and organic shapes, and
fashioned by an artist’s hand, Art Nouveau
contrasted markedly with the currently
popular Victorian styles, which were heavier
and more opulent. The new art quickly
won universal favour. It was adapted to the
full range of material culture, including
architecture, graphic arts, textiles, and
ceramics. In Belgium, as in France, the
style was called Art Nouveau; in Germany
and in Austria, it was called Jugendstil. In
England, where it had developed in the
late 19th century, it was the British Arts
and Crafts Movement. By whatever name, it
Art Nouveau was a
repudiation of the shoddy
products produced by the
Industrial Revolution
30
FROM TOP
Aquamarine Necklace in
original box, c. 1890 by
Mrs Philip (Charlotte)
Newman (English, 18401927). Collection of
Tereza M. M. Driehaus.
Photograph by John
A. Faier, 2014, © The
Richard H. Driehaus
Museum
Winged Sylph Brooch,
c. 1900 by René Lalique
(French, 1860-1945).
Collection of Richard H.
Driehaus. © 2014 Artists
Rights Society (ARS),
New York/ADAGP,
Paris. Photograph by
John A. Faier, 2014, ©
The Richard H. Driehaus
Museum
DESIGN
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Lily-Pad Hair Combs,
c. 1906 by Ella Naper
(English, 1886-1972).
Collection of Richard H.
Driehaus. Photograph
by John A. Faier, 2014,
© The Richard H.
Driehaus Museum
Necklace, c. 1900
by The Kalo Shop
(American, 1900-1970).
Collection of Neil Lane.
Photograph by John
A. Faier, 2014, © The
Richard H. Driehaus
Museum
32
Japanese Lady with
Umbrella Brooch, c. 1900
by Antoine Bricteux
(French). Collection
of Nelson Rarities, Inc.
Photograph by John
A. Faier, 2014, © The
Richard H. Driehaus
Museum
was a repudiation of the shoddy products
produced by the Industrial Revolution,
especially arts and domestic crafts produced
by factories and mechanisation.
But the British Arts and Crafts Movement
went further. It was a social movement that
protested against the dehumanising effects
of factory work. The British aimed to abolish
the specialisation and repetitive workshop
practices that relegated one person to such
mind-numbing labour as only casting gold,
another to enamelling, yet a third to setting
gems. The British championed the art of
simplified forms and organic shapes, but
also the purity and virtue in handwork. They
celebrated the designer as maker. In the
United States, several Art Nouveau artists,
notably Louise L. Tiffany in New York City,
followed the British lead. Artists organised
the first American Arts and Crafts societies
in Boston and Chicago.
The turn of the century called for a new
style, and Art Nouveau satisfied the desire
of an era in transition. It presented a new
way of looking at and seeing nature. For
their part, artists found inspiration in all of
nature, the traditionally beautiful as well
as what they had previously overlooked.
Jewellery artists adapted the new ideas to
their creations. And people appreciated
the unique handwork and talented artists
who produced such attractive jewellery.
Art Nouveau fostered new possibilities and
optimism for a new century, which women
eagerly embraced as maker and muse.
DESIGN
BOUCHERON
by Astrid Colley
R&
Of
ajahs
R oyals
The splendour of India’s maharajahs celebrated
in contemporary high jewellery
34
Mehndi brooch, paved
with diamond in white
gold. This brooch
can also be worn as a
necklace.
“T
he flamboyant Maharajah
of Patiala, then ruler
of Punjab, arrived
ed at
Boucheron’s in 1927
accompanied by a retinue of 40 servants,
ervants,
his 20 favourite dancing girls and,
most important of all, six caskets
filled with diamonds, pearls,
emeralds, sapphires, and rubies off
incomparable beauty,” reads Alain
n
Boucheron’s account on his familyy
business, in the book The Master
Jewellers. Maharajah Bhupinder
Singh would go down in companyy
history as placing the largest ever
private order at Boucheron. The
result was 149 pieces of exquisite
jewellery, from tiaras and aigrettess
to jewelled belts and necklaces, each
ach
carefully documented with archived
ed
sketches.
The collection became the inspiration
piration
for Claire Choisne, Boucheron’s creative
reative
director, to create her latest collection,
tion,
Bleu de Jodhpur. Choisne explains
ns that
India is a country that holds special
ial
significance for the 157-year-old
Parisian jewellery house. It was
here that Louis Boucheron, son
of the house’s founder Frederic,
purchased the Kashmir cabochon
n
sapphire that would become
the jeweller’s signature, and
would feature in many of its high
jewellery designs.
“In this collection, I tried to
be inspired by the past, old piecess
from Boucheron and India,” says
Choisne. “When I arrived at
Boucheron four years ago, I saw
d
all these sketches and was amazed
que
and inspired.” Choisne had a unique
chance to work with the current
h
Maharajah Jodhpur, HH Maharajah
Gaj Singh II. “He helped me by showing
me Jodhpur and told me a lot of stories to
better understand the city and the people,”
Choisne adds.
Maharajah Bhupinder
Singh placed the largest
private order in Boucheron’s
history — 149 pieces of
exquisite jewellery
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Eternity necklace, set
with a 6,02ct Colombian
emerald and paved with
diamonds in white gold
and platinum
Plume de Paon
timepiece, set in white
gold with marble and
paved with diamonds
Maharani brooch, set
with a 19.87ct emerald
of Maharajah and rock
crystal, paved with
diamonds in white gold
35
DESIGN
Among the highlights of the
60-piece Bleu de Jodhpur collection
is the seven-strand Nagaur necklace, named
after one of the palaces in the area. “It was
like an oasis, with flowers and fountains in
the middle of the dessert,” says Choisne.
“I created a pear-shaped pendant in rock
crystal, and inside it, there is sand from this
dessert. Light comes through in the form
of a flower of diamonds on the top of the
rock crystal. I thought the colour of the sand
would match perfectly with pearls.”
36
Pieces with tigers, eagles, and lotus
flowers, and the use of rubies, emeralds,
sapphires, and diamonds are Choisne’s
figurative nod to India’s culture and history.
The combination of blue and white in stones
recalls the vibrant hues of the houses in
the city of Jodhpur. The use of emeralds,
India’s royal colour, is highlighted in the
unique Maharani brooch, which has an
antique emerald sourced from a maharajah’s
belt buckle. There is a chapter dedicated to
mehndi, the intricate art of henna. As an
Jodhpur reversible
necklace, set with a
6.01ct kite diamond,
marble, rock crystal,
paved with sapphires
and diamonds in
white gold
Among the highlights of the
60-piece Bleu de Jodhpur
collection is the seven-strand
Nagaur necklace, named after
one of the palaces in the area
FROM LEFT
Ring set with a 4.36ct
Burma Pigeon’s Blood
ruby and onyx, paved
with diamonds in white
gold
Tiger ring, set with a
12.41ct Burman ruby and
paved with diamonds in
white gold
Lumière De Jodhpur
earrings, set with
sapphires and diamonds
in white gold
Perroquet bracelet, set
with agate and sapphires,
paved with diamonds in
white gold
ode to Boucheron having created
the first question mark necklace,
Choisne designed one featuring a lotus
flower in tourmaline, spessartite, and marble.
“Each year, we create a new question mark in
the same spirit. We tried to make it dynamic,
where you can see the pistils, and the shape
is like origami.”
The reversible Jodhpur necklace, one
of the standout pieces of the collection, is
an audacious design, created with marble
from the same quarry as that used in the
Taj Mahal. It was personally sourced by
the Maharajah of Jodhpur. “It is for me the
masterpiece of the collection,” says Choisne.
The French designer explains that it was
inspired by one of the necklaces created
for the Maharajah of Patiala in 1927. “I kept
the shape, but gave it a modern twist. It
was important for me to put marble in this
collection, because it represents India.” It is
the first time that Boucheron has created a
necklace out of marble, hand-carved, and set
with diamonds on one side. The other side
of the necklace features a meenakari pattern
(an Indian art of ornamenting metals) with
blue sapphires, rock crystal, and diamonds.
Despite the materials and intricacies of
the design, the Jodhpur necklace weighs a
relatively light 490g, thanks to the marble
being just 1mm thick in some places. This is
testament to the skills of Boucheron’s Place
Vendôme craftsmen, who spent 1,700 hours
on the Jodhpur necklace alone.
Boucheron’s high jewellery are never
without amazing stones. The collection’s
Tiger ring is set with a 12ct Burmese ruby,
while the Jodhpur Eagle ring is made with a
21ct tanzanite.
Choisne hopes that her creations will
resound with women of means, who are
both confident and feminine. While marble
and sand may be unusual materials for high
jewellery, she believes that she is walking in
the footsteps of the brand’s founder, Frederic
Boucheron. “He was really daring, and I’m
happy to keep the audacity going.”
37
STYLE
Dolce & Gabbana
BAGS & BANGLES
by Maripet Ledesma Poso
Purses
O nF ire
Crimson cuts a striking figure in
this season’s colour trends
38
A
s autumn leaves turn scarlet, so do cardinal fashion
details. Sanguineous, fierce, warm, and passionate,
red still reigns in this year’s Autumn-Winter colour
palette trends. Evoking the spectacles of fall, brown,
black, beige and grey are invigorated by bursts of red. Boldly embracing this
signal colour trend are this season’s most coveted luxury bags. From clutch
to minaudiere, frame to tote, let these precious scarlet purses take care
of your wardrobe’s much-needed effervescence. In true Solitaire fashion,
we help you arm your arms by matching your bags with equallyy fabulous
bangles. The bigger, bolder, and brighter, the better.
Serpenti Hypnotic
Top Handle Bag,
BULGARI
Cuff in 18k white
gold with diamonds
and Akoya
pearls, YOKO
LONDON
Embroidered
Dishevelled
Lace Knuckle
Box Clutch,
ALEXANDER
MCQUEEN
Iguana Print
Leather Monica
Bag, DOLCE &
GABBANA
Diva bangles,
FREY WILLE
RollerGlam
bangle,
LAZARE
Sanguineous, warm, and
passionate, red still reigns in
this year’s Autumn-Winter
colour palette trends
Small Calfskin Boy
Flap Bag with Long
Goat Hair, CHANEL
Animalia cuff in
pink galuchat,
DAMIANI
39
STYLE
40
ALICIA VIKANDER
by Aniko Navai
T he
D anishG irl
From
S weden
Alicia Vikander is making the world take notice
ith nine movies out in a
span of one year, Alicia
Vikander is clearly one
of Hollywood’s newest
‘it girls’. The fact that she seems hardly aware
of it and even much less effected makes her
all the more endearing. Born and raised
in Gothenburg, Alicia trained to become a
ballerina. But her career on toes was thwarted
by an injury. She moved to Stockholm at
age 15 to pursue acting, and soon became
a household name in a popular soap opera.
Just like every Hollywood success story, Alicia
craved more, deserved more. Not long after,
she broke into the European film scene. Her
classical features and innocent demeanour
attracted director Joe Wright for a role in his
feature film Anna Karenina. Since then, she
has been working non-stop in A-list films,
including Ex Machina and The Man from
U.N.C.L.E. With her sparkling auburn eyes
and gamine-like quality reminiscent of Audrey
Hepburn, Alicia’s appeals are both classic and
contemporary.
Solitaire spoke with the breakout star at
both the Venice and the Toronto Film Festivals
recently, where she attended the premieres of
her latest movie, The Danish Girl.
W
OPPOSITE
Alicia Vikander at the
Louis Vuitton Cruise
2016 Resort Collection
show
Photo courtesy of Louis
Vuitton
THIS PAGE
Camélia Brodé earrings
in white gold and
diamonds by CHANEL
Fine Jewellery, worn
by Alicia at the 2013
Academy Awards
Photo courtesy of
Chanel
THIS IS YOUR FIRST TIME IN VENICE,
RIGHT? SHARE WITH US YOUR
EXPERIENCE AT THE FESTIVAL.
Yes. I’ve been in Italy quite many times, but
this is my first time to be in Venice. I had
my mum with me last night. She’s a stage
actress, and since I was a kid we always liked
looking at photos from the Cannes and
Venice Film Festivals. To be here with the
film and her is really quite extraordinary.
YOU’VE BEEN WORKING NON-STOP
— AND NOW YOU ARE SHOOTING
THE NEW INSTALMENT OF THE
BOURNE SERIES. WHEN DO YOU
HAVE FUN?
I’m very good at planning trips. I go abroad
or go home to visit my friends and my
family. I now have bought a flat in London.
I’ve been drawing. It’s my new hobby. I’m
learning how to draw my own kitchen
and bathroom, so that’s one of my biggest
hobbies at the moment. I was just at the
Alicia’s appeals are both
classic and contemporary
41
STYLE
airport — I’ve been to quite a few airports the
last couple of years — and I stood there and I
realised that I must have bought every single
interior design magazine there is this month.
This is my biggest obsession right now. I have
a dear friend from Gothenburg where I grew
up, who now works in building renovation.
He’s kind of helping me to learn how to draw
those things, so that’s what I’m practising at
the moment.
ARE YOU INTO FASHION?
I feel I’m very comfortable in my
everyday wardrobe. But then
given the job that I do, fashion
is a way of expressing a certain
feeling that I maybe have one
day or another. I’m into great
clothes more than I’m into
shopping itself, so I tend to
just shop for key pieces.
HOW DO YOU PICK
YOUR RED CARPET
OUTFITS?
I do have a relationship
with Louis Vuitton, and
I choose every red carpet
outfit I wear. But I do get
great inspiration from my
stylist, Victoria Sekrier.
AND HOW DO YOU
ACCESSORISE FOR THE
RED CARPET?
I like to keep it simple — I just
wear a statement piece.
WHAT’S YOUR MOST
FAVOURITE PIECE OF
JEWELLERY THAT YOU
NEVER LEAVE THE HOUSE
WITHOUT?
Actually there’s no one piece I’m
particularly attached to. But I
always like to wear a bracelet or a
couple of rings.
WHAT WAS THE FIRST PIECE OF
JEWELLERY THAT YOU BOUGHT
FOR YOURSELF?
I had never in my life treated myself to
jewellery. But a few years ago when I got
one of my first international roles, I started
a little tradition for myself where for each
movie I treat myself to one little special piece
of jewellery. For The Danish Girl, I was really
happy to get myself a Celine bangle.
WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE
GEMSTONE?
Genuinely, I just love jewellery and I don’t
have a specific favourite stone. But I do love
a pearl.
BEAUTY TIPS AND SECRETS?
Truly I know everybody says this, but a good
night’s sleep and lots of water really do make
a difference.
“I love jewellery. I don’t have a
specific favourite stone, but I do
love a pearl”
42
FROM LEFT
Alicia in Louis Vuitton
at The Man from Uncle
photocall in London
Alicia with Michelle
Williams and Jennifer
Connelly at the Louis
Vuitton Paris Fashion
Week Womenswear
Fall/Winter 2015/2016
show
Photos courtesy of Louis
Vuitton
Made in Italy
The art of baguette cut since 1974
New York - Milano - Singapore
www.maskadagioielli.com
Meet us in:
Vicenzaoro
Hong Kong
Baselworld
Las Vegas
Maskada Gioielli s.r.l.
VALENZA - ITALY
Ph. +39 0131 942207
Fax +39 0131 947443
[email protected]
STYLE
MIX & MATCH
by Koh Chuin Ying
CHANEL Resort 2016
The Call from
A nywhereE lse
Fashion strikes a cultural balance for Resort 2016
CHRISTOPHER KANE Resort 2016
44
CHANEL Resort 2016
2
Chatelaine
clips
1
Cerfs-volants clip,
VAN CLEEF &
ARPELS
Lace scarves
Blush modal and cashmereblend gauze and lace scarf,
VALENTINO
4
Ladylike
totes
Secrets and Lights
cuff bracelet in
18k pink gold
with diamonds,
PIAGET
3
Bogart textured leather
tote, CHARLOTTE
OLYMPIA
Candescent cuffs
Seven Seas
Mediterranean Sea
Flamant Corail
earrings,
VAN CLEEF
e
& ARPELS
DONNA KARAN Resort 2016
5
Lace robes
Resort or cruise collections
evoke feelings of wanderlust,
and blush tones conjure up images of pink
sunsets, tropical weather,
and happy days
Soirée Lyalya embellished lace
robe, AGENT PROVOCATEUR
7
Colourful rings
Spectrum
ring, NIKOS
KOULIS
6
Drop earrings
Dr
8
Opulent sandals
Swarovski crystal-embellished
leather and snake sandals,
RENÉ CAOVILLA
45
STYLE
RED CARPET TRENDS
by Maripet Ledesma Poso
M
ysterious as it is versatile, black can
simultaneously be unassuming
and arrogant, timid and audacious
— but always stylish and forever
timeless. Karl Lagerfeld wasn’t the first one to declare
that “one can never be overdressed or underdressed in
a little black dress”. When Coco Chanel introduced the
quintessential LBD 80 years ago, she could not have
foreseen the impact this had on essential wardrobe choices
for ladies around the world.
Much like the LBD, black gems deserve their very own
special spot in a stylish woman’s fashion cardinal. Black
diamond, opal, black pearl or onyx — obsidian gems
instantly set the tone for a polished and cosmopolitan look.
At recent red carpet affairs, celebrities revered black’s
malleability both in their dresses and accessories, donning
either head-to-toe raven or Yin and Yang medleys. From
short cocktail dresses to exquisite long gowns in various
dark shades — from bluish to jet, accented by exquisite
black jewels, gold or bright diamonds — ebony coordinates
dominated occasions.
Sandra Bullock sparkled in a Monique Lhuillier top and
skirt from the Fall 2015 collection during the 2015 Women
in Film Crystal + Lucy Awards in Los Angeles. She paired
her dark metallic-chic ensemble with a Sidney Molepo
clutch, Jack Vartanian earrings, and Stuart Weitzman heels.
Trending
O bsidian
Ebony elegance as defined at
recent red carpet parades
46
Sandra Bullock at the
2015 Women in Film
Crystal + Lucy Awards
in Los Angeles
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Amber Heard wearing
a Bulgari Serpenti
necklace
Italian actress Anita
Caprioli at the Venice
Film Festival opening
ceremony, wearing
pieces from the
CHOPARD High
Jewellery collection
Dangling earring worn
by Gabrielle Union,
JACK VARTANIAN
Diamond ring worn
by Gabrielle Union,
MESSIKA
Gabrielle Union at the
BET Awards
Michelle Rodriguez
donning an understated
gold Bulgari necklace
At the BET Awards, Gabrielle Union rocked a
Halston Heritage Fall 2015 black sequined gown,
proving that glittery equals glam. The Being
Mary Jane star capped her slinky get-up with
striking jewellery combinations. Amber Heard
and Michelle Rodriguez both graced the Bulgari
launch of its newest High Jewellery collection
during Paris Haute Couture fashion week. Amber
accessorised her figure-hugging Temperley
London simple LBD with a Bulgari diamond
and pink gold Serpenti necklace, while Michelle
paired her black, flowy, cut-out gown with an
understated gold Bulgari necklace.
47
STYLE
Wearing them short, chic, and structured
are the secrets to effectively nailing a casual
yet elegant LBD. At the première of her
movie Vacation, Christina Applegate sported
a dark blue Amanda Wakely dress, which
she accented with a Tyler Alexander clutch,
Ferragamo shoes, and Jack Vartanian and
Le Vian jewellery. For a dose of sartorial
elegance, Rachel McAdams went all-out black
on black at the Southpaw press conference
in Beverly Hills. She paired her dainty LBD
with black diamond ear climbers
and stud earrings and diamond
stackable rings.
Much like the
LBD, black
gems deserve
their very own
special spot
in every
woman’s
fashion
cardinal
CLOCKWISE
FROM TOP LEFT
Rachel McAdams in
an all-black ensemble
Stackable diamond
rings worn by Rachel
McAdams, SETHI
COUTURE
Bohème Moongarden
watch, MONTBLANC
Local artiste Jeanette
Aw at the Montblanc
Boheme event in Paris
Christina Applegate
at her movie Vacation
premiere in California
Black sapphire bracelet
worn by Christina
Applegate, JACK
VARTANIAN
Chocolate diamond
earrings worn by
Christina Applegate,
LE VIAN
48
STYLE
The Yin and Yanginspired ensembles are
made more interesting by
high-thigh slits and ebony
statement jewellery
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Fifth Harmony band
members at the Teen
Choice Awards 2015
Black plexi and gold
cuffs worn by Normani
Hamilton of Fifth
Harmony, PLUMA
Gold and glass pearl
drop earrings worn
by Camila Cabelo
of Fifth Harmony,
KARINE SULTAN
Jenna Dewan-Tatum at
the European Premiere
of Magic Mike XXL in
London
Zendaya at the Teen
Choice Awards 2015
Black diamond ring
worn by Brittany Snow,
LE VIAN
50 50
Brittany Snow at the
CMT Music Awards in
Nashville
[Photos courtesy of
D’Orazio & Associates,
Bulgari, Chopard, and
Montblanc]
The contrasting appeal of black and white melee once
again proved to be a classic on the red carpet. From
off-shoulders to tube tops and dotted frocks, the Yin and
Yang-inspired ensembles are made more interesting by
thigh-high slits and statement ebony jewellery.
JOCALIA BY ZENITH AFFAIR
RAFFLES HOTEL ARCADE | 328 NORTH BRIDGE ROAD, #02-35 | SINGAPORE 188719
T. +65 6337 9987 | WWW.JOCALIABYZENITHAFFAIR.COM.SG
555 MADISON AVENUE, SUITE 1300 | NEW YORK, NY 10022 | T. +1 212 974 9360 | WWW.PAOLOCOSTAGLI.COM
NEW YORK | SAN FRANCISCO | PALM BEACH | SINGAPORE
DESIGN
LOUIS VUITTON
by David Yip
T he
P erfect
G etaway
Sleek, streamlined
masterpieces inspired by
world travel
Long Island necklace
with a Burmese sapphire,
Tahitian pearls, onyx,
and diamonds
52
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Capri earrings
with diamonds and
Australian opals
Newport necklace with
pearls and diamonds
Excelsior blue
tourmaline and
diamond ring
F
or Louis Vuitton, the Art
Deco period has proven
ven
to be a fertile ground
for inspiration. Its Acte
te
V high jewellery collection, released last year,
ear,
drew with great success from this aestheticc
art movement of the 1920s and its distinctive
tive
Machine Age imagery. This year, as the
second chapter to Acte V, the luxury house
unveils Acte V: The Escape, a new collection
based on a style that followed Art Deco in
the 1930s called Streamline Moderne.
Streamline Moderne was an artistic
movement inspired by and celebrating
technological progress, at the time most
visibly represented by the world of travel.
The 50 pieces of jewellery in Acte V:
The Escape evoke the stripped-down
aerodynamic lines and curved shapes
of aeroplanes, Zeppelins, trains, and
transatlantic liners. They are suffused with
the glamour of the so-called ‘Golden Age of
Travel’ of the inter-war years.
The pearls and precious stones of the
collection capture the colours of the sea. It
is a diverse, rarely seen assemblage sourced
from every corner of the globe. It includes
a stunning 32ct Paraiba tourmaline, a 30ct
opal from Australia’s prestigious Lightning
Ridge mines, a remarkable ruby from
Tajikistan, and a dazzling sky-blue sapphire
from the Pien Pyit mines of Myanmar. These
exceptional gems come together with the
fluid designs of the collection in an array
of long Bayadère necklaces, tasselled cuff
bracelets, clip earrings, and rings.
The ‘V’ is the hallmark of the collection
and is adapted to gentle curves, the aquatic
metaphor, the fan motif, and the lotus flower
— the symbol of eternity that marked the
height of the Egyptian period in Art Deco.
A secondary leitmotif is the tassel, which
is synonymous with Art Deco jewellery
Acte V: The Escape
collection evokes
the stripped-down
aerodynamic lines
and curved shapes
of aeroplanes,
Zeppelins, trains and
transatlantic liners
and seen here in multiple strands of
tsavorite beads, or in pearls suspended as
bunches from drop earrings, chokerlike diamond necklaces or a cuff.
The palette is a marine-inspired
blue and green. And famous
Gilded Age resorts, often close to
magnificent bodies of water, bestow
the collection with their resonant
names — Beau Rivage, Newport, Luxor,
Excelsior, and Capri.
53
DESIGN
The ‘V’ is the
hallmark of the collection and is
adapted to gentle curves, the aquatic
metaphor, the fan motif, and the
lotus flower
Beau Rivage bracelet
and earrings with
diamonds and pearls
54
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Luxor diamond earrings
Beau Rivage necklace
with diamonds, pearls,
and tsavorites
Newport onyx and
emerald ring
Newport onyx and
diamond ring
In the Excelsior suite, the pieces reference
the time in the 1930s when luxury travel
first began
began, and when artist and
enginee
engineer came together to create
the role
rol of designer, and elevate
the functional
fun
to an object of
beauty.
beauty In these immaculately
crisp d
designs, diamonds, pearls,
and blue tourmalines are set like
sea froth framing
fra
a blue enamel V,
to cascade from the ear, adorn a finger, or
languidly drape across
ac
the body.
The Luxor suite evokes the Art Deco
infatuation with Egypt, thanks to Howard
Carter’s discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb
in 1922. Again, the V is emblematic, as in
the diamond fronds that fan out to form
gorgeous drop earrings or a pendant in
the shape of a lotus flower, highlighted by
a vibrant flash of green grand feu enamel.
The Capri suite, meanwhile, vividly captures
the luminous, shimmering colours of
the famous Blue Grotto on the island of
Capri. Its centrepiece necklace features a
resplendent 32.72-carat African tourmaline
that dazzles with both its size and depth and
its scintillating aquamarine colour.
The designs of the Newport suite bring
to mind the sun-washed optimism that
breezes through this favoured coastal
holiday haunt of privileged Manhattanites.
In a long necklace, two strings of black
Tahitian pearls, attenuating in size, hang
like bubbles emanating from an idling boat
engine and stretching into the distance. The
same black pearls are set in the midst of a
perfect row of lustrous white pearls like a jazz
riff, which is then cinched by a black onyx
shield with an impressive diamond at its
centre. Rings, bracelets, and earrings feature
rows of diamonds in fluid undulations and
concentric circles that recall the wake left
by a yacht. In a boldly exquisite ring, an
emerald brighter than a diamond burns
like a supernatural cat’s eye within its black
onyx frame. Lastly, within the Long Island
suite, a necklace of grey Tahitian pearls flows
to a stop at a bewitching soft grey Burmese
sapphire, from which descends two onyx
drops fringed with diamonds — a ripple of
repeated forms, like waves against the side of
a boat.
A lovely sense of dreaminess pervades the
collection. It is testimony to Maison Louis
Vuitton’s undeniable success in engaging
the imagination and emotions through the
marriage of precious stones and evocative
jewellery design; and of living up to the
promise of ‘The Escape’.
55
INTERVIEW
Scarab necklace with
pearls and diamonds
LOTUS ARTS DE VIVRE
L
56
ight
F antastic
Asian fervour brought to
life in unique handcrafted
luxury jewels
L
otus Arts de Vivre’s
jewellery pieces are
elaborate, intricate, and
extremely vibrant. At times
dubbed the ‘Asian Fabergé’, the Thailandbased luxury house pushes all boundaries
in terms of design and craftsmanship. Using
natural yet unorthodox materials such
as seeds, coconut shells, stingray leather,
ostrich eggs, and scarab wings, the familyrun company is well-known for producing
single-piece, handcrafted luxury jewellery, as
well as accessories and home decorations.
Founded by Rolf von Bueren, a
German art connoisseur, and his artist
Thai wife, Helen, Lotus Arts de Vivre is
now run by their sons, Sri and Nicklas.
The design company has grown to become
an international brand, synonymous with
one-of-a-kind designs that honour Asian art
and sensibilities. With pieces sold in some of
the world’s top luxury hotels and jewellery
houses, Lotus Arts de Vivre has come along
way from its humble beginnings as Helen’s
hobby 30 years ago. Nicklas von Bueren, the
company’s chief operating officer, talks to
Solitaire about the company’s heritage and
design philosophy.
WHAT IS THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE
NAME ‘LOTUS ARTS DE VIVRE’, AND
WHO IN YOUR FAMILY CHOSE IT?
The name was coined by my parents. The
beautiful Lotus flower manages to grow
and survive in brackish waters and is
synonymous to Thailand/Asia. We added the
‘Art de Vivre’ as it perfectly encapsulates our
designs and philosophy by taking natural
elements and creating everyday usable
designs.
HOW DOES BEING A FAMILY-RUN
COMPANY ADD A DISTINCTIVE
ELEMENT TO YOUR DESIGNS AND
CREATIONS?
Being family run, we are in control of our
decisions and are able to inject our feelings
and thoughts behind every design- and
decision-making process. To add a
personal touch, we want to be close
to those who purchase our products.
In today’s world where most luxury
companies are run (or taken over by)
large conglomerates, this is becoming
less common. We feel that the need for
personalisation is more essential.
WHO DOES MOST OF THE DESIGNS
GNS
IN THE FAMILY, AND WHICH ROLE
LE
DO THE REST OF YOUR FAMILY
MEMBERS PLAY?
The lead ascetic designer is my father, while
the technical designer is my brother. I look
ook
after the sales and marketing. However, at
the end of the day, we all try to be involved
ved
in every aspect of the production to have
ve a
common goal.
WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR
DESIGN INSPIRATIONS?
Our inspirations come
largely from materials
and techniques
found throughout
the world. Of course,
the inspirations can
also be moulded by our
environment and travels.
The Thailand-based luxury
house pushes all boundaries
in terms of design and
craftsmanship
FROM TOP
The von Buerens: Sri,
Rolf, Helen, and Nicklas
Dragon earrings with
pearls and diamonds
Repousse Persimmon
earrings with diamonds
Parrot handbag
57
INTERVIEW
CAN YOU WALK US THROUGH THE
PROCESS OF YOUR PRODUCTION,
FROM DESIGN TO EXECUTION TO
THE FINISH PRODUCT?
All designs start with the materials in hand,
depending on the stocks available for mix
and match. Once a general concept is
done, our craftsmen create a mould, which
gives us the proportions and allows for
adjustments. When the designs are signed
off from a technical and artistic perspective,
that’s when the production starts. Every
process is viewed by the family and goes
through an evolution before a design is
seen on the shelf. We are lucky to have
very gifted craftsmen who understand
our processes and have the patience to
complete our visions. Some designs may go
to various countries where we work with
other master craftsmen specific to their
trade. For instance, we work in Japan for
lacquer in jewellery and in China for natural
lacquer in home decoration. For carving,
we may work in Indonesia or India. One
thing that is constant is that all designs
are conceptualised and completed in our
workshop to ensure a certain quality.
YOU SPECIALISE IN THE USE OF
A WIDE RANGE OF NATURAL YET
UNORTHODOX MATERIALS, FROM
NUTS TO BEETLE WINGS. WHAT
ARE THE MAIN CHALLENGES
WHEN MAKING HIGH JEWELLERY
PIECES OUT OF THESE DIVERSE
MATERIALS?
“Being family run, we are in control of
our decisions and are able to inject our
feelings and thoughts behind every designand decision-making process”
WHAT ARE THE MAIN CRITERIA
THAT SET YOU APART FROM OTHER
LUXURY/INTERIOR/JEWELLERY
DESIGN HOUSES IN ASIA?
Our jewellery and home décor are
considered luxurious and high end. We
have always strived to stay ahead of the
design spectrum and are now widely copied
throughout Asia.
PLEASE TALK BRIEFLY ABOUT YOUR
LATEST COLLECTIONS.
We have just launched a handbag collection
comprising limited edition pieces, as well as
a mid-range evening and day bag collection.
All designs are innovative, handcrafted, and
limited edition.
AFTER DECADES IN THE BUSINESS,
WHAT ELSE DO YOU WISH TO
ACCOMPLISH FOR THE BRAND?
Our aim is to be purely a single-piece
producer, which allows us to focus on
individual clients and their needs.
The idea of using different materials is
to create a richer look. Most jewellers use
two or three materials, but we sometimes
incorporate five or six. When the piece
is worn, it stands out in a crowd and
immediately identified as a Lotus Arts de
Vivre design. We have become well known
for this.
YOU’VE COME A LONG WAY
TOWARDS BECOMING AN
INTERNATIONAL BRAND. WHAT ARE
THE THREE MAIN FACTORS THAT
HELPED YOU TO GET
TO WHERE YOU ARE
TODAY?
We have maintained
our philosophy in
designs, we are a
niche supplier, and
we believe in the
importance of having
personal relationships
with our customers.
FROM TOP
Dragon candle holder
Ballet Dancer brooch
with pearl and diamonds
Flexible scarab ring
58
TIMELESS
WHITE WATCHES
by Sam Koh
Ivory
elight
Embrace autumn with these chic
and versatile white watches
T
rying to come up with iconic watch designs is not
easy. Satisfying collectors, aficionados, critics and
the whims of fashion, while still standing the test
of time requires creativity, inspiration and technical
prowess. Luxury watch designers play with materials, sizes, shapes and
— especially so with ladies’ watches — colours. In this article, we explore
the colour white with these seven lovely horological masterpieces.
Blancpain
In 1956, Blancpain launched the
first iteration of the Ladybird Ultra
Slim timepiece.To this day, it holds
the record for the world’s smallest
automatic movement. Its intricate
mother-of-pearl dial is set with
diamonds on the case and a single
ruby at 12 o’clock. It measures
3.90mm in thickness and 15.70mm in
diameter, is completely self-winding,
and manages a decent 40-hour power
reserve.The timepiece is also water
resistant up to 30 meters.
60
To this day,
Blancpain’s Ladybird
Ultra Slim timepiece
holds the record for
the world’s smallest
automatic movement
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet has launched the new
Millenary Tourbillon Lady model.The idea for
the Millenary case came from an old design
made in1951, which did not take off as it was
not as popular as other oval-shaped cases.The
design was brought back in 1995 and named
‘Millenary’ in honour of the approaching
third millennium.The Millenary Tourbillon
Lady comes fitted with the hand-wound
manufacture Calibre 2940 and has a tourbillon
device seen through its partial skeletonised
face. It’s 45mm-diameter case is made of solid
18k white gold and is completely set with 424
beautiful brilliant-cut diamonds.
Breguet
In honour of the 200th anniversary of the original Reine de
Naples line, Breguet introduced a Grand Complication, called
the Automatic Strike. Every hour, two hammers located in
apertures at 11 and 1 o’clock chime twice to remind us that
another hour has passed.The Reine de Naples with Hour-Strike’s
beautiful egg-shaped timepiece in 18k white gold comes with a
bezel set with 30 diamonds of approximately 3 carats. It runs on
the Breguet Calibre 78S0 with a 65-hour power reserve without
strike, or 50 hours when the strike is on.
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe’s latest Annual Calendar features
a redesigned and refined case whose curves
sparkle with diamonds.The mother-of-pearl
dial in white for the rose gold model displays
the day of the week, the month, and the date.
This timepiece also indicates the day, month and
phases of the moon. It is water-resistant to up 30
meters and features 388 diamonds all over the
watch, ranging from 0.06 to 2.65 carats.
61
TIMELESS
Harry Winston
In this new timepiece from Harry Winston,
the feminine and sporty nature of the
Ocean Chronograph Automatic 36mm is in
full display.The case showcases several
distinctive features: characteristic
faceted lugs, a sloping bezel, and
the three Harry Winston arches at 3
o’clock.The Ocean Chronograph’s
most dynamic aspect is its sunburst,
silver-toned dial, which is marked
with openings and engravings and a
background for two counters at the 3
and 9 o’clock points.The watch beats with
the HW3204 automatic movement and
features 33 brilliant-cut diamonds on its
bezel, lugs and arches.
Chanel
In the creation of the Mademoiselle Prive
Embroidered Camellia watch, Chanel
collaborated with the centuries-old House of
Lesage to create the embroidered elaborate
designs on the watch face. Diamonds and fine
pearls stitched with silk threads form precious
camellias and cornets on beige silk dial.To
accentuate the simplicity of its delicate design,
Chanel has removed the crown and attained a
perfectly round 37.5mm-diameter watch case.
It runs on a high precision quartz movement
and is water resistant up to 30 meters.
62
Montblanc
The face of Montblanc Seconde Authentique watch is encased within
a bezel of polished 18k rose gold concave.The case is now 36mm in
diameter to minimise its masculine and dominant tone. Set within the
watch crown is a single diamond, characteristic of Montblanc designs,
with its 43 facets resembling the snow-capped peak of the Mont Blanc.
This range also showcases the Seconde Authentique ‘Pour Elle & Lui’, a pair
of complementing couple watches. Both have the same design, with the
gent’s case further enlarged to 39.5mm. Each model in this collection is
limited to 58 watches, or 58 pairs of watches.
STYLE
VALENTINO Haute Couture Fall 2015
ARMANI PRIVÉ Haute Couture Fall 2015
ELIE SAAB Haute Couture Fall 2015
MIX & MATCH
G reenP iece
by Koh Chuin Ying
Let the Five Elements’ most harmonious
shade sway your wardrobe
64
Patekk Philipp
P
Philippe
C
Carnet
Alexander
Alexa
anderr Wa
Wang
Patek Philippe’s Twenty-4® Haute Joaillerie wristwatch
may surprise you, but its use of differently cut
diamonds and exquisite floral motifs will always deserve
a close look. Proving that the brand is at the top of
the trade when it comes to the art of gem-setting,
two water lilies are finely depicted by emeralds and
pink and yellow prong-set sapphires, presented on an
uninterrupted bed of diamonds.
From Carnet comes a one-of-a-kind bib necklace
composed of lavender-, ice-, green- and honeycoloured jade gourds. The intricacy of the undulating
choker is noted in the colourful gemstones of titaniumset green garnets and purple sapphires that link the
gourds. The piece is finished with diamonds and
brilliant-cut diamond accents.
Though the Taiwanese-American wunderkind
graduated to high fashion when he joined Balenciaga
as creative director in 2013, his signature “model
off-duty” style has never strayed far from his mind. His
namesake brand is clearly where his heart is, as seen in
this emerald satin midi-dress for women who want to
keep it simple and sexy.
Elena Gh
El
Ghisellini
ll
Gedebe
Percossi P
P
Papi
p
Yewn
Y
Zhaoyi
y
Miu Miu
Creative Director Dickson Yewn — of the Chinese fine
jewellery brand — weaves China’s artistic and cultural history
into his jadeite pieces using classic motifs like lattice, peonies,
and cloisonné patterns. We love this bangle in blackened white
gold with jadeite, diamonds, pink sapphires, and tsavorites from
the Imperial Grace collection.
At BaselWorld 2015, the Chinese jade jewellery brand
made its debut with some of the finest black, green,
lavender, and colourless varieties. We love this bib
necklace set with glossy green jade cabochons and
diamonds. Did you know that the glassiest green jade
fetches the highest price?
If you didn’t already know, sunglasses with mirrored
green lenses are some of the hardest to find. While
aviator-style shapes are constantly evolving, these
gold-tone beauties are finished with tortoiseshelleffect acetate tips for comfort and promise to remain
timelessly cool.
Multi-label boutique Salon by Surrender welcomes this
This luxury bags, shoes, and jewellery brand takes
No detail is too small for this Italian designer who
Florence-based designer to their brand repertoire this
its name from its founder, Giuseppe Della Badia.
handcrafts all his jewellery in a small studio at the
Though the label only launched in 2010, it is quietly but
fall. Dubbed ‘luxury fetishes’, expect edgy, practical and
Pantheon — the heart of old Rome. “I start from a
thoughtfully designed accessories from Ghisellini — who
swiftly getting recognition for the use of crystals, stud
point — a colour, a stone, or an enamel — and then build
has just been appointed Emilio Pucci’s Head Accessory embellishments, and colourful exotic leathers in its pieces. directly on it, looking for the balance, realising it step
Designer — like this Gabria satchel bag.
This Veronique pump, made with python skin and crystals by step”, says Papi. For these earrings, he uses bezel-set
chrysoprase, turquoise, peridot stones, small seed pearls,
and
nd available exclusively at On Pedder, is on point.
po
and teardrop jadeite to beautiful effect.
65
DESIGN
NGHI NGUYEN
by Jennifer Henricus
P
oets,
D reamers
Masterpieces that
push technology and
transcend culture
&Visionary
Warriors
A
diamond-encrusted, 18k gold
spider ring sits on a finger, its
delicacy and subtle ‘danger’
contrasting with the elaborate
lace-like metal necklace that hugs the neck. A full-length
flexible metal mesh sleeve, its fine details picked out in
blackened bronze, embraces the arm like soft armour.
These are among the dramatic designs created by
New York’s new design sensation Nghi Nguyen. He
envisions jewellery creation as delicate armour-like
body adornment, designed to “instigate thought
and emotions while questioning boundaries
and perceptions in a changing world”. His
brand, NNbyNGHI, transcends cultures
and creates alternate expressions of beauty
and shows hidden emotion, a dream, or a
fantasy. “I am often inspired by the Japanese
philosophy of wabi-sabi, a way of thought that
prizes humility and austerity and finds beauty in
imperfection,” Nghi says.
66
Nghi strives to
transcend cultures
and create new
expressions
of beauty that
incorporate a
hidden emotion or
a fantasy
OPPOSITE
Spider ring
Photography: Ferny
Chung
THIS PAGE
Tribal metal-mesh sleeve
Photography: Ferny
Chung
67
DESIGN
68
The edgy beauty embodied in each
piece owes its existence to the origins of
Nghi’s design career. Born in Vietnam, Nghi
graduated in Design and Photography in
Australia. From there, he embarked on an
unusual creative path developing sculptural
accessories and costumes for theatre and
performance art events, first in Perth, then in
Tokyo. Working in Tokyo’s music and fashion
industry, he produced numerous accessories
for Japanese pop stars. In 2001, he created
jewellery for actress and beauty icon Sayoko
Yamaguchi for her role in Seijun Suzuki’s
cult feature film Pistol Opera. During that
time, Nghi also produced a collection of
jewellery and accessories promoted by
Japan’s leading fashion agent Via Bus Stop.
The metal ‘lace’ mesh with its intricate
patterns that forms the basis of some of
his designs is meticulously assembled in
a labour-intensive process, usually with
four different colour metals. “Mixing
different metal colours adds depth to the
piece, resulting in chameleon-like surface
textures,” Nghi says. “Bronze gives pieces a
museum artefact feel, encouraging me to
work on bigger and more sculptural pieces.”
Nghi routinely experiments with a range of
different materials to present a new idea.
Gemstones are selected for their unusual
natural inclusions and luminescence, and
then custom-cut. Sometimes the gemstones
are buried in dirt to give the appearance and
feel of an artefact. For example, labradorite is
among these lesserused gemstones
enjoying newfound popularity.
“I picked labradorite
Nghi is inspired
by the Japanese
philosophy of
wabi-sabi, a way
of thought that
prizes humility
and austerity
for its inclusions and deep luminous quality.
My current favourites are fire agate and
fossils that represent slices of evolution.”
In addition to traditional techniques,
Nghi uses CAD and rapid prototyping
technology. “It’s a great new tool that allows
me to visualise better and fabricate intricate
designs.” Most pieces are hand-finished
using traditional techniques – minus any
harmful chemicals – to create the warmth of
a well-worn piece of jewellery. Nghi enjoys
the technical side of manufacturing as much
as he does designing: “I am very hands-on
with all my work, and all pieces are made
in New York, supported by a team for CAD
work, assembly, and stone settings.”
Aside from having his own store, Nghi
dreams to expand his studio while “creating
pieces for science fiction films and jewels
for a French jewellery house.” Describing
the collection he is currently working on,
Nghi says it will have the “look and feel of
artefacts from a distant civilisation: they
are armour-like and act like a second skin,
sitting discreetly under clothing.” His
next challenge is to take his body armour
jewellery to another level, enmeshing both
beauty and functionality. “For example, could
jewellery help maintain body temperature at
a desired level in different environments?”
If Nghi had his way, jewellery will take
on a whole new dimension of function
and beauty in the coming years. “My ideal
customers are poets, dreamers, and visionary
warriors who see beauty in imperfections,”
he shares.
FROM TOP
Portrait of Nghi Nguyen
Photography: David
Coventry
Sakura diamonds ear
cuff, Gouache illustration
by Nghi Nguyen
Aero ring in silver and
rock crystal
Photography: Tim Daley
OPPOSITE
Exploding diamonds
necklace, Gouache
illustration by Nghi
Nguyen
Instagram page: @nnbynghi
69
TIMELESS
ONLY WATCH CHARITY
by Charmaine Tay
D ials for
aC ause
Only Watch charity auction
presents unique timepieces
70
Breguet
Breguet reinvents its vintage military-grade
chronographs to present the Type XXI 3813.
The piece features the same Type XX special
flyback function, enabling instant zeroresetting and restarting of the chronograph in
a smooth transition. A unique platinum piece,
it also has a chronograph minutes counter
positioned in the centre, a date aperture, a
12-hour counter, a day/night indicator, and
small seconds subdial. Although the Type XXI
3813 has been updated to modern standards,
appearances remain the same with a matte
slate grey dial, stylised Arabic numerals and an
aged calfskin strap for the truly vintage look.
T
he world of haute horlogerie is fiercely competitive.
Each manufacturer constantly strives to set new
records for things like the thinnest tourbillons, the
most detailed Metier d’art, or the rarest materials
used.Yet there is nothing quite like a charity event to bring them
together, if only for a brief moment.The Only Watch charity auction,
held November 7 in Geneva, aims to raise funds for the research on
Duchenne muscular dystrophy. In this daily race for time, it is only
fitting that timepieces help propel such a cause.We present seven of the
prestigious masterpieces created for the auction.
Blancpain
Blancpain incorporated important
characteristics of the traditional
Chinese calendar into its classic
Villeret model, confined within a
45mm-diameter red gold casing.
A true marriage of the East and
West, the Traditional Chinese
Calendar indicates the doublehour, day, month and those
with leap months, zodiac signs,
five elements, celestial stems and
most importantly, the moonphases.
This Only Watch edition features
a black grand feu enamel dial with
golden numerals, numbers and
characters.
Patek Philippe
Patek Philippe reproduces the Grand
Complication 5016 — in stainless steel.This
piece, Ref. 5016-010, combines the classic
round case of the Calatrava, with three precise
complications.The tourbillon, minute repeater,
and perpetual calendar with moonphase
display are encapsulated within a modest size of
36.88mm-diameter casing. Apertures on the 3, 6,
9, and 12 o’clock positions reveal what this piece
is capable of, complementing sharp silver details
with a deep cerulean blue.
Boucheron
The Vague de Lumière comes from the Épuré d’Art collection,
interpreting art to a state of naturalism.White diamonds
imitate the shimmer of water when it catches
sunlight, layered by a blue sea of aventurine.
This piece is a tribute to The Great Wave
off Kanagawa, a print by famed artist
Hokusai, who is sometimes attributed
to triggering the wave of Impressionism.
While the original print was on wood,
Boucheron’s piece is set in white gold case
surrounded by a bezel of diamonds. As usual, a
sapphire cabochon rests by its side.
71
TIMELESS
The Only Watch
charity auction aims
to raise funds for the
research on Duchenne
muscular dystrophy
Thomas Mercer
Historical marine chronometer expert
Thomas Mercer teams up with furniture
designer Jake Phipps to present Brittanica, a
table chronometer of marine-grade precision
in contemporary design. Using polished
steel, the geometrical wonder is a cabinet
of mechanical engineering, featuring a
soft, white leather cover.The octagonal dial
predicts the constellations in the Geneva
sky on the night of the auction. A manual
mechanical calibre enables Brittanica, and can
be visible through an aperture above the dial.
Jaquet Droz
Adapting the Petite Heure Minute template, Jaquet Droz introduces
the Paillonnée for Only Watch. For this unique timepiece, paillonnée
enamelling is intricately introduced onto the dial, over a deep red grand feu
enamel, which is over another layer of sunburst guilloché. Silicon spirals
are introduced into this emblematic piece like never before. Its flexibility,
shock resistance, temperature and pressure variations, and magnetic fields
allow the Petite Heure Minute Paillonnée to be stable over time.
Piaget
Often revered as one of the world’s thinnest
mechanical watch, the Altiplano 900P
undergoes a slight revamp in its support
for Only Watch. It is able to achieve its
3.65mm thickness through ingenuity
— combining case and movement
as one. Attention is immediately
drawn towards the slender pair
of red hands — punctuating
the solemn black.The main
dial is off centre, creating a
semi-skeleton to exhibit the
mechanism.This piece is
38mm in diameter, constructed
with 18k white gold, and
finished in a satin brush.
72
STYLE
SHOES & JEWELS
by Syahmin Ritzwan
Glamour shoes to add
some spring in your step
74
S assyS tilettos
F
rom lace-ups to sling-backs, block heels to classic pumps, each pair of shoe
owns its special time and place in our lives. Weddings, birthdays, first dates,
business lunches, or a big night out with friends — shoes play a crucial role in
making or breaking an important outfit. Nude heels deserve an embellished
cocktail dress, while ankle boots work well with a slinky dress for a delightful juxtaposition.
There are shoes, however, that deserve the main spotlight. Bejewelled, studded, and intricately
detailed, these exquisite stilettos become the highlight of your outfit when paired with the right
accessories. With an over-embellished pair, tone down your jewellery pieces with stud earrings and
a matching dainty necklace to avoid them fighting for attention. A good pair of pumps matched
en jeans or an elegant LBD — can be an
with a simple ensemble — a blazer, t-shirt, and boyfriend
instant fashion game changer.
Embellished
Brocade pumps,
DOLCE &
GABBANA
Crystal Covered
Pointy Toe Pump
Cinderella Slipper,
JIMMY CHOO
Camubutterfly
Ankle Strap,
VALENTINO
Embellished
Brocade pumps,
DOLCE &
GABBANA
Femì Cross Over
Lace Up Suede
pumps, GIANVITO
ROSSI available at
ON PEDDER
Goatskin
open pumps,
CHANEL
OPPOSITE PAGE
FROM TOP
Art Deco diamond earrings
and pendant, HARRY
WINSTON
Multi-wear diamond ring
and pendant, LEE HWA
JEWELLERY
Pumps from the Winter
2016 collection, DOLCE &
GABBANA
Rose Print Brocade
Belluci pumps, DOLCE
& GABBANA
Shoes always play a crucial role in making
or breaking an important outfit
75
FACETS
FULL-FINGER RINGS
Digitsof
by Sophia Watson
legance
Statement rings that pack a splendid punch
V
ersatile and perpetually chic, full-finger rings are a
trend in full swing. Stars such as Emmy Rossum and
Vanessa Hudgens have worn them on the red carpet,
and cocktail events everywhere provide a stage for
conversation on them. Styles range from gothic and edgy, to fresh and
feminine, creating a varying array of accessories that can accommodate
every woman’s personal taste in luxury regalia.
Staurino
Yeprem
White round and marquisecut diamonds give this ring
from Yeprem’s Y-CONIC Wild
Flames collection a sense of
youthfulness, along with the soft
tendrils that form a diamond
flame. The Wildfire ring adroitly
conveys gentle movement and
three-dimensionality through the
clever setting of gems and the
ethereal shape of the ring.
Emmy Rossum and Vanessa
Hudgens have worn full-finger
rings on the red carpet
76
Unlike most full-finger rings, the Magic Snake
ring by Staurino Fratelli does not feature a shieldlike structure designed to cover the top of the
finger. Instead, an open coil of diamond baguettes
completes a delicate band which wraps around the
finger, supporting a cluster of Colombian marquisecut emeralds. The emeralds, perched atop the thin
spiral band, form a bright green lily flower.
Sutra
Inspired by the intricate
silhouettes of gothic
architecture, this Sutra
ring set in rare 18k black
gold, studded with 4ct
white rose-cut diamonds
resembles a gothic
window reminiscent of
renowned monuments,
such as the Notre Dame.
Sutra stays true to its
inspiration by putting a
21st century twist on this
medieval design.
FACETS
BIRD-INSPIRED JEWELLERY
by Nina Hald
The
]ings
of Paradise
Wearable masterpieces designed
to sweep you off your feet
Palmiero
From Palmiero’s Animal
Collection comes the
Swan ring, made of 18k
white gold and entirely set
with colourless, black and
cognac-coloured diamonds
and aquamarines. The
epitome of ladylike grace, the
swan symbolises the great
transformation from child to
adulthood. As a stylish bird,
she grounds herself on earth,
lofting to great heights in the
air, all the while retaining
the privilege of winding
herself through waters with
magnificent elegance.
78
W
hile fleeting in fashion, animal motifs tend to
become classic heirloom designs in jewellery.
A hummingbird in mid-flight, the graceful
neck of a swan, or the charms of a peacock
— when immortalised in precious jewels exude timeless elegance
and ethereal delicacy.
Boucheron
Blue River
With more than 20 animals
already dazzling an initiated
clientèle, the zoology of
Boucheron has been expanded
with Hopi the Hummingbird.
Despite being one of the
smallest birds in the world,
its beauty and its speed
surprise. This Boucheron
ring is made of pink gold
and set with a large morganite,
pavé diamonds and pink and
blue sapphires.
A symbol of the Thai fertility
deity, the majestic peacock is
associated with many different
symbolic values. It represents
heaven and immortality as well
as pride. Blue River’s embracing
pink gold-shaded peacock
Grace ring is decorated with
carefully engraved motherof-pearl, pink sapphires in
several graduated shades, and
colourless and yellow diamonds.
HODEL
Switzerland
HODEL Switzerland’s
Flamingo brooch is
made of 18k white gold
set with 129 colourless
diamonds (totalling
1.18 carats), eight
black diamonds and pink
sapphire. But the real attraction
is the white South Sea baroque
cultured pearl with a staggering
length of 16.3mm, which
makes up more than half of the
plumage of the bird.
Van Cleef & Arpels
A hummingbird in mid-flight
immortalised in a precious
jewel exudes timeless elegance
From Van Cleef & Arpels’ Two Butterfly collection
comes the Berylline Colibri clip, which combines French
freshness with sparkle. Lines and colours answer
one another to highlight one of the company’s most
emblematic styles — asymmetry. The clip is made of
white and yellow gold and set with diamonds, coloured
sapphires, emeralds, tsavorite garnets, coloured
diamonds and carved white opals.
79
FACETS
A symbol of the Thai
fertility deity, the
majestic peacock
is associated with
many different
symbolic values
Staurino
Enveloped in marquise-cut pink
sapphires, amethysts, peridots
and blue topazes is Staurino’s
white gold Dove ring. In a poetic
reproduction of nature, Staurino
imagines a signature blend of
colours to match a most gentle
fowl, held sacred in many cultures.
In addition to be associated with
affection and the care for all living
creatures, the dove is also a symbol
for longevity in Chinese mythology.
Lalique
Forever
by Fai
Forever by Fai presents the Morning
Glory ring from the Exceptional
collection, exemplifying wondrous
symbiotic partnerships of nature
that are truly deserving of depiction
in 18k red and yellow gold.
Intricately crafted, using a refined
assortment of rubies and diamonds,
the ring is a must-have for the
nature lover and art connoisseur
alike.
Tiancheng
International
As a true naturalist, René
Lalique had a passion for
plant and small winged
animals. From this he created
spectacular jewellery, daring
entirely new combinations
of materials. A tribute to
legendary actress Sarah
Bernhardt, Lalique’s Parrot ring
features bright, multi-coloured
feathered dress in white gold,
pavéd with 99 diamonds, 39
pink sapphires, 35 champagnecoloured diamonds and two
blue sapphires.
This 18k rose gold Parrot brooch went up for grabs at a recent
Tiancheng International auction. With a realistic design,
the main part of the bird’s body is made up of a South Sea
baroque cultured pearl. The crown, nape and tarsus are set
with a total of approximately 1.10ct tsavorites, the upper-wing
and tail are set with 1.40ct blue and pink sapphires, and the
eyes and beak are made of white circular-cut diamonds.
80
FACETS
YELLOW DIAMONDS
by Sophia Watson
A M ost
E nlightened
C olour
Rays of sunlight
captured in exquisite
collar charmers
s a universal symbol for
warmth, yellow is one of the
most luminous colours of
the spectrum. Aside from
its associations with optimism and vitality,
yellow possesses deeper meanings across the
globe. Throughout South East Asia, it is widely
recognised as an emblem of royalty. In jewellery,
pure yellow diamonds get their incandescent
colouring due to the presence of nitrogen
impurities in the crystal’s structure. These jewels,
commonly faceted into cushion- and radiant-cuts,
are celebrated for their radiant shimmer.
A
82
Graff
Set as a pendant hanging from a
necklace with 31 smaller yellow
diamonds, Graff Diamond’s
Golden Empress, a 132.55ct
cushion-cut fancy vivid yellow
diamond, is a sight to behold.
Unearthed from the Letšeng
mine in Lesotho, it weighed 299
carats in rough form.
Gems to Treasure
All-new curated showcase of fine gems,
jewel artistry and innovation by a spectacular
line up of Asian designers and internationally
renowned jewellers for unique and great
value dazzling shopping.
Jewel Pavilion
Orchard Road
Ngee Ann City Civic Plaza
Open to public
9–18 October, 12–8 pm*
9–13 October First Edition
Taking centrestage are rare gems for
investment and artistry of jewels with a
spotlight on highly talented haute joallierie
designers from Japan, Thailand, Taiwan,
Hong Kong, India and Singapore.
14–18 October Second Edition
Be awed by iconic jewels that impress
with impeccable craft and engineering
passionately created by the finest
from Germany, Italy, England,
Switzerland, Portugal, Brazil,
Israel, U.A.E. and the U.S.A.
www.singaporejewelfest.com
THE FINE AR
T OF JEWELLERY
*Jewel Pavilion will be closed on 9 and 14 October from 6.30 pm onwards for private events
FACETS
Gems Pavilion
Gems Pavilion’s neck candy is centred
around a 33.88ct pear-shaped fancy
yellow diamond set on a simple pearshaped diamond necklace. This classic
yet bold design reinvents archetypal
feminine qualities into more than just
gentleness and grace.
Dehres
Dehres interprets the yellow diamond
with refined creativity, setting this
oval-shaped fancy vivid yellow stone
on a string of 148 dazzling pear-shaped
diamonds. The Venus necklace displays
the admirable clarity of the jewel,
showcasing its beauty in a subtle and
sophisticated manner.
84
Yellow diamonds
are celebrated for their
radiant shimmer
atelier-zuppinger.ch
Plate
Tableware or
part of a watch
movement?
Discover the world
of Fine Watchmaking
at www.hautehorlogerie.org
Plate | The plate which bears the various movement parts and in particular the bridges.
The dial is usually affixed to the bottom side of the plate. The plate is pierced with
holes for the screws and recesses for the jewels in which the pivots of the movement
wheels will run.
THE FOUNDATION’S PARTNERS | A. LANGE & SÖHNE | AUDEMARS PIGUET | BAUME & MERCIER | BOVET 1822 | CARTIER | CHANEL | CHOPARD | CHRISTOPHE CLARET
DE BETHUNE | GIRARD-PERREGAUX | GREUBEL FORSEY | HERMÈS | IWC | JAEGER-LECOULTRE | LOUIS VUITTON | MONTBLANC | OFFICINE PANERAI | PARMIGIANI FLEURIER
PIAGET | RALPH LAUREN | RICHARD MILLE | ROGER DUBUIS | TAG HEUER | VACHERON CONSTANTIN | VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
FACETS
Lazare
The Blume ring from Lazare is
a tribute to the most popular
orchid family indigenous to
the East, the Phalaenopsis
Blume. The floral species has
countless varieties of colours,
ranging from the subdued
to the vivid, and the patterns
are almost too numerous to
count. With the Blume ring,
Lazare has added yet another
variety to this genus.
FLORAL JEWELS
by Nina Hald
Betals
Floral nuances
represented in
romantic jewels
Immortalised
86
W
hether in abstract form, embodied in art nouveau or stylised, flowers are a
favourite motif that has jewellers’ benches blooming. From the aristocrats
of cultivated gardens to the most humble flowers, whether delicate or
vast in aesthetic conception, flowers are lively, animated and generous. In
Asian cultures, flowers are an important facet in everyday life, always carrying a positive message,
often invoking powerful emotions. The language of flowers appeals to us all, especially when set
with gemstones in gold and other precious materials. Orchids, hibiscus, and lilies captivate us
with their symbolism as much as their form.
Hans D. Krieger
While celebrating the Lotus flower and the
Parisian Art Deco era, Hans D. Krieger also
promotes environmental sustainability with
its Vainard collection. This 18k ring in rose
gold set with a 0.15ct brilliant features a
flower carved from Elforyn, a high-grade
ivory substitute material that is processed
exactly like natural ivory. Elforyn is
commonly used in Japan for netsuke art.
Palmiero
In the Chinese history, ladies would
carry rose petals in their purses, while
gentlemen made wine and herbal
medicine with these petals.
Palmiero’s Rose ring is
set with colourless and
colour diamonds and
sapphires in 18k
rose gold. The light
pink rose signifies
gentility and
grace in the Asian
tradition.
Yoko London
With an extraordinary
bouquet and a profusion
of pearly petals, Yoko
London has brought
subtle nuances and
materials together,
each enhancing the
other in a perfect
arrangement. This
precious ring, which
celebrates the bulb of
a Lotus flower, is made
of 18k yellow gold and set
with a 22mm South Sea baroque
cultured pearl and a total of
1.80ct diamonds.
In Asia,
flowers are an
important facet in
everyday life, always
carrying a positive
message
Victor Mayer
In the East, the orchid is a symbol
of perfection and elegance. It
represents integrity, nobility and
friendship. Victor Mayer’s Brilliant
Orchid ring has a certain panache
that brings realism and a natural
earthiness to it. Made of diamonds
and 18k rose and white gold, the
ring features opalescent pink and
purple fire enamel and is limited to
25 pieces.
Lili Diamonds
With the Lily ring from Lili Diamonds, the power of abstract jewellery is laid out in full. The
ring is made of 18k pink, yellow and white gold set with a total of 24.82ct Lily-cut diamonds,
two carré-cut stones, 180 round colourless diamonds, 336 pink round diamonds and 76
yellow round diamonds. Abstraction adds strength and character to this perfect ring.
87
FACETS
Lee Hwa Jewellery
Buddhists recognise the lotus as
signifying the holy seat of the
Buddha. Lee Hwa Jewellery’s
Lotus collection features
brilliant-cut diamonds set in
18k white and rose gold. With
this double-motif ring, the Lotus
symbolises ultimate purity of
the heart and mind, because it rises
untainted and beautiful from the mud.
Fabergé
The Red Hibiscus cuff from
Fabergé — made of pink and
yellow gold, set with rubies,
and yellow and colourless
diamonds — is an exotic,
vibrantly coloured creation
which conjures images of
Imperial hothouses. The cuff
is part of a series of hibiscus
jewels, which capture the
theatrical brilliance of the flower,
smothered in stones mixing
rubies with diamonds.
Damiani
Dejewel Galleria
Inspired by a Chinese hibiscus, this
flower ring from Dejewel Galleria is
set with a total of 2.35ct sapphires and
0.50ct diamonds in black and white
gold. In the Japanese language of
flowers known as hanakotoba,
the hibiscus signifies
gentleness. For the Chinese,
the hibiscus, or China rose,
signifies wealth, fame, and
immortality.
Harry Winston
For Harry Winston, the stylised
Lotus motif is a touch of the
East. Even though the Lotus
may blush with the subtlety
of pastels, only colourless
diamonds do the vision
of Harry Winston right
in the 21st century. The
juxtaposition of different-cut
diamonds make up the compact
impression of the flower.
White lily is the symbol of purity,
candour and virginity. Other
colours are often linked to history
and legends that revolve around
this species. In Damiani’s new
collection, rings, earrings and
pendants all have sinuous, highly
feminine shapes. This ring is
dominated by a large flower in
burnished gold, dramatically set
with emeralds and black and
colourless diamonds.
Orchids, hibiscus, and lilies captivate us with
their symbolism as much as their form
88
KNOWLEDGE
Cuff from the Tropics
collection featuring a
golden South Sea pearl
set with diamonds in 18k
white gold, JEWELMER
PEARLS
Ear clips from the Fleur
d’Amour collection
featuring diamond
encrusted petals
cradling a 15mm metallic
cherry pink pearl,
SCHOEFFEL
by Preeta Agarwal
The argarite
6
Dive into the seductive
sed
enchantments of pearls
Spectrum
90
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Cape made of a soft
white gold chain that
displays 162 beautiful
grey Tahitian pearls from
the Masterpiece Soiree
collection, DAMIANI
Pendant in rose and
black rhodium gold
with brown diamonds,
rubies and freshwater
pearls from the Bollicine
collection, UTOPIA
JEWELS
Venus earrings in
18k white gold with
diamonds and white
Australian pearls,
STEFAN HAFNER
Ring with white and
brown diamonds and
pearls in 18k white gold
from the Captured
Pearls Collection,
PALMIERO
P
earls have radiated
beauty and purity for
millennia. Amongst all
precious gemstones,
there are only a few ones produced by living
organisms, and pearls are the most famous
and lustrous of them all. Natural pearls are
formed when an irritant or parasite becomes
lodged in the tissue of an oyster. The oyster
responds by secreting a calcium carbonate
substance called nacre to coat the intruder,
which, over a long period of time, forms a
natural pearl. As natural pearls are next to
impossible to find nowadays, the remaining
ones will always come with a hefty price tag.
Human ingeniousness and intervention
made possible the cultivation of pearls.
Cultured pearls are real pearls, grown
organically inside oysters in the same way
as natural pearls, except that the ‘nucleus’
irritant is manually inserted into the oyster
by the pearl farmer. Quicker but not easy,
the process still requires pearl farmers to
sort through 10,000 pearls before a 16-inch
single strand of beautifully matched pearls is
assembled.
Most natural pearl locations have now
been turned into cultured pearl farms, and
the pearls found from these locations have
been named after either the location of
origin, or their shape and size.
Freshwater
Cultured Pearls
Freshwater pearls, as their name implies,
are formed in freshwater mussels and are
now primarily produced in China. Their
colour depends on the type of mussel they
come from, ranging from various pastel
shades of white, cream, pink and peach, to
black, purple and tangerine. Sizes can vary
between 2mm and 13mm. Although larger
sizes are very rare, the most common
freshwater pearls found are between
4mm and 7mm. Not all freshwater pearls
are spherical, but due to the high
quality that they are produced
in, even a small percentage
of spherical pearls amount
to large numbers. They
are more affordable
than Japanese Akoya,
White South Sea or Black
Tahitian pearls, but with
improvement in technology
and resultant increase in size and
lustre, their prizes have started to rise.
91
KNOWLEDGE
CLOCKWiSE FROM
TOP LEFT
Josephine necklace with
diamonds featuring two
South Sea pearls, BIBIGI
Necklace composed
of five strands of 539
graduated saltwater
natural pearls completed
by an 18k white gold
and brilliant-cut
diamond-set clasp,
Sold at TIANCHENG
INTERNATIONAL
Spring Auction 2014
Two-finger rings
in 18k white gold
featuring natural
baroque South Sea
pearls and diamonds,
CONTINENTAL
DIAMOND
Earrings in rose gold
and 1.62ct diamonds
featuring blue Baby
Akoya pearls (natural
colour) from the Twist
collection, QAYTEN
Akoya
Cultured Pearls
Akoya cultured pearls grow in their
namesake Akoya oysters that live in the
ocean, usually in protected lagoons. Known
for their lustre and quality, they are more
valuable than freshwater pearls. Nucleated
with round beads, Akoya pearls are usually
spherical and range from 2mm to 11mm in
size. Anything above 10mm is rare because
of the small sizes of the Akoya oyster. The
non-spherical ones are baroque, semi
baroque or even beads. The Akoya pearl is
either white or cream in body colour and
typically has a rose, cream or ivory overtone.
These type of pearl may also be treated to
achieve a black body colour.
Tahitian Cultured
Pearls
One of the more fascinating pearls of recent
times, Tahitian Pearls first appeared in the
jewellery industry in mid-1970s. Coming
from the islands of French Polynesia, they
are in Black Lipped oysters. They are the
only pearl to achieve a black body colour
naturally and are typically very large, ranging
from 9mm to 16mm, with a record breaking
one at 26.95mm. Tahitian pearls, although
mostly dark, can come in a wide range of
hues, including black, gray, silver, green,
blue and purple, even peacock colour. Their
larger sizes, unusual colours, rarity and high
production costs result in higher prices.
Freshwater cultured pearls are more
affordable than Japanese Akoya or
Black Tahitian pearls
92
South Sea
Cultured Pearls
South Sea pearls are saltwater pearls
cultivated from oysters found in the South
Seas, centering in Northern Australia and
South East Asia. Their larger sizes of 9mm
to 20mm, beautiful white, silver or gold
colour, rarity and thicker nacre layer set them
apart from other cultured pearls. South Sea
pearls are often found in oval, button, drops,
baroque and semi-baroque shapes.
FROM TOP
Bracelet in embossed
gold with invisibly set
rubies and polkis,
BIRDHICHAND
GHANSHYAMDAS;
Orchid pendant with
opals, amethysts and
diamonds, PAULA
CREVOSHAY
FROM TOP
Bracelet in embossed
gold with invisibly set
rubies and polkis,
BIRDHICHAND
GHANSHYAMDAS;
Orchid pendant with
opals, amethysts and
diamonds, PAULA
CREVOSHAY
Keshi pearls are not cultured
pearls, but are a by-product of
the culturing process
Keshi Pearls
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP LEFT
Necklace in 18k white
gold, 6mm to 12mm
South Sea baroque
pearls, and 1.49ct
diamonds, YOKO
LONDON
Three-Bird brooch in
750 white gold with
South Sea Keshi Pearls
(20.14g, 7.4mm-14mm),
white and brown
diamonds (2.51 carats)
and rubies, HODEL
SWITZERLAND
Earrings featuring
Tahitian Keshi pearls and
diamonds, LA PUTRI
Diamond earrings
with South Sea pearls,
SCHREINER
One of the most unusual types of pearl,
Keshi pearls are not cultured pearls, but
are a by-product of the culturing process.
A Keshi pearl is formed when a previously
cultured oyster spontaneously produces a
pearl due to an irritant. Layers of nacre are
secreted over this irritant, and a Keshi is
formed in exactly the same way a natural
pearl is formed. Due to the lack of a beaded
nucleus, they often come in random shapes
but are very lustrous. They are available in all
sorts of beautiful colours, from blue and grey
to yellow, white, green and even purple.
Tips For Buying Pearls
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Buy
Bu only from a reliable source.
Le
Learn about Shape, Size, Lustre and Surface. Size is directly related to the weight of the
pearl; thus, the larger the size higher the price.
pe
M
Make sure the surface of the pearl is smooth and free of marks.
Check
Ch for similarity as well as uniformity in colour, shape and finish.
M
Match shades in adequate light when buying pearls of the same colour.
Learn about the various lengths of necklaces before buying pearls: A collar fits directly
Le
against the throat. A choker rests at the base of the neck. The princess length reaches near
ag
the collarbone. A matinee length is usually 20 to 24 inches; and the opera length is 30 to 36
inches.
inc The longest length, known as the rope, refers to all strands longer than 36 inches.
93
STYLE
SCARVES & EARRINGS
Chanel x Damiani
Chanel lightens up the Fall/Winter season
with a palette of warm hues in this Silk Twill
Square Scarf. Further accentuating the display
of colour, Damiani creates an impressive
organic design in a pair of white gold
Masterpiece Anima earrings with facets of white
diamonds, pink sapphires, and tourmaline,
each bearing a different cut.
by Katherine Arteche
D raped
in
E legance
Cozy up to the season’s
must-have accessories
A
s Summer draws to a close, let's embrace the next season cocooned
in the softness of our new favourite accessory. Be it square or
fringed, silk or cashmere, scarves do what they're meant to do best
— keep us warm and stylish. Up your Fall/Winter outfit a notch by pairing your
stoles with the most striking earrings.
94
Frey Wille
x Fope
Only three of its kind, Austrian
fashion label FREY WILLE’s
eccentric silk scarves are exclusively
designed in conjuction with
Singapore’s Golden Jubilee
celebrations.This loud print is better
tamed with soft yet exquisite jewellery
such as Fope’s pair of rose gold
earrings, embellished with a lightblue aquamarine centre.
Dior x Brumani
Dior channels the classy look of short
scarves in this Tokyo Graphic Silk Square that features a
quirky mismatch of colours and shapes. Piling on the
colour palette, these 18k yellow gold earrings by Brumani
from their Baobab Bubbles Collection are hand-engraved
with brown diamond, Brazilian blue topaz, pink topaz,
London topaz, and ruby.
Hermes
x Palmiero
Louis Vuitton
x Lalique
Burberry x Marina B
Hermes’ Flamingo Party is a soiree
of elegance.The pale rose silk twill
beholds an elaborate artwork of
two flamingoes in an all-pink safari
fantasy. Palmiero’s 18k white gold
earrings from the Ginko Collection
complete the look, giving one
an alluring, aristocratic
bearing. For a graceful
finish, the careful
cascade of white
diamonds ends with
a pear-cut kunzite.
The off-white Monogram Stole
by Louis Vuitton is woven with
a luxurious blend of cashmere,
wool, and silk. Best paired with
Muguet 18k white gold earrings
with engraved pearls, diamonds,
and pearl crystals from French
jeweller Lalique, it is perfect for an
evening’s all-white ensemble.
Marina B crafts a beautiful mix of princess-cut
sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds in this pair
of 18k white gold Kashmir Sapphire and Diamond
Pendant earrings. Most ideally paired with Burberry’s
Heritage Cashmere Scarf in a soft camel colour, the
natural blues of the sapphires pop against the
brushed cashmere.
95
STYLE
SCHIAPARELLI
Haute Couture
Fall 2015
MIX & MATCH
by Koh Chuin Ying
Primary
Instinct
Explore the duality of dynamic
shades that are new and now
Red Carpet necklace
in 18k rose gold with
rubies and diamonds,
CHOPARD
Red is an
empowering colour
that can affect
everything from how
people perceive you
to how you walk
and talk
Bacall gold-plated
Perspex box
clutch, KOTUR
Azar ring in 18k
pink gold with
pink diamonds
and rubies, LITO
Washed silk-satin
gown, LANVIN
Angelicouture heels,
VALENTINO
96
Floral-embellished
gold-tone hair slide,
DOLCE & GABBANA
How To Wear
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blue shares a divine compatibility with
Ikat Headdress II
White Opal, JENNY
PACKHAM
Les Talismans
Fascinante
earrings,
CHANEL
Saya satin clutch,
OSCAR DE LA RENTA
Asymmetric silksatin dress, TIBI
ZUHAIR MURAD
Haute Couture
Fall 2015
Étourdissant
Cartier Romanov
sapphire and
diamond bracelet,
CARTIER
Soie Dior Gros
Grain Saphir
bracelet, DIOR
Diva High
Jewellery
watch Sap
Code 102421,
BULGARI
Embellished satin
pompom mules,
MIU MIU
Blue is commonly known as
the most favoured colour of all.
People associate it with
loyalty, friendliness, and confidence
97
TIMELESS
MINUTE REPEATERS
by Carol Lee
S
oundingOut
a
egacy
Recent releases of minute
repeaters showcase
horological prowess
Audemars Piguet
Audemars Piguet’s Millenary Minute Repeater
is a three-dimensional wonder. Housed within
its iconic oval-shaped pink gold case is a
unique architecture that shows off the handwound movement Calibre 2928, featuring
small seconds at 7 o’clock and Audemars
Piguet own escapement and double-balance
spring. It has two movement barrels, giving
it seven days of power reserve.The third
barrel, which is 2.5 times larger than standard,
supplies energy to the minute repeater.
Activate the complication with the sliding
trigger at 9’clock, and admire the striking
mechanism in action on the blued gong, which
arcs around the outside of the dial.
98
L
O
ne of the oldest watch complication, the
minute repeater was a necessity when it first
appeared in the 17th century. It allowed time to
be heard in the dark by activating a pusher or
slider.The sounds chime out the hours, quarter, and down
to the minute in various tones.The complication has since
evolved to include grande and petite sonnerie chimes, and
a full Westminster Carillon. As it requires extra parts for the
repeating mechanism taking up space, the minute repeater
has always been a challenge for watchmakers whose key
consideration is to maintain sound quality. Minute repeaters
remain highly sought-after complications, with watchmakers
g of new models with new
upping their game with a range
hanisms.
calibres, designs, and mechanisms.
Cartier
The Rotonde de Cartier Grande Complication
is the most complex Cartier watch ever
made, combining three complications
— a minute repeater, a perpetual
calendar and a flying tourbillion,
all in 45mm platinum case. It is
powered by the skeletonised
self-winding Calibre 9406 MC,
comprising 578 components
yet only measuring 5.49mm
in thickness.These three
complications can be observed
through the openwork dial in
18k gold, including the perpetual
calendar’s counters (the date, days,
months and years), the flying tourbillon
at 12 o’clock, and, of course, the minute
repeater’s gongs, hammers, and fly-wheel.
IWC
Since its introduction in 1995,
the IWC Portugieser Minute
Repeater has been dubbed
the ‘orchestra for the wrist’
— featuring a patented
repeating mechanism, which
comprises some 250 individual
parts working together as if
in a mechanical orchestra.This
year, the timepiece is presented in a
limited edition of 500 each in platinum
and 18k red gold. Powered by the 98950
Calibre in-house movement, which can
be admired through the transparent
sapphire caseback, it chimes out each
hour with a single strike, every quarter
with a double strike, and every minute
with one higher-pitched strike.
Minute repeaters can come
with grande and petite
sonnerie chimes, or a full
Westminster Carillon
Vacheron Constantin
After four years of development,Vacheron
Constantin presents the Patrimony Ultra-Thin Calibre
re
1731, powered by the world’s thinnest manualwinding minute repeater movement measuring onlyy
3.90mm. It has a 65-hour power reserve and a unique
ue
silent flying-strike governor, which helps steady
the rate at which the hammers strike the gongs.
The sapphire crystal caseback reveals the striking
mechanism, while the front features an elegant
silvered opaline dial and small seconds offset at
8 o’clock.The 41mm pink gold case is itself only
8.09mm thick, and has been built without joints to
enhance the amplitude of the sound.
99
TIMELESS
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Under the Master Grande Tradition Minute Repeater’s
classically-designed finely grained dial is the JaegerLeCoultre’s Calibre 942, marking the first time in
the history of the Master Grande Tradition line that a
repeater is powered by an automatic movement.Thanks
to the square-section crystal gongs machined in one
piece from a secret alloy and two patented trebuchet
hammers, the result is a clear and strong sound with its
striking regularity ensured by the silent regulator.The
minute repeater is activated by a button instead of a slide,
and comes equipped with a security system that prevents
the minute repeater from starting up again when it is
already in action.
Girard-Perregaux
It is always a pleasure to see a minute repeater in action, as opposed to just
hearing it. Girard-Perregaux has now given watch lovers this privilege with the
Minute Repeater Tourbillon with Gold Bridges. Combining horological innovation
with traditional aesthetics, the components of the striking mechanism and the
hammers are proudly placed upfront on the dial.With the redesigned manual
Calibre GP09500-0002, the timepiece produces strong, clear chimes in two
tones for hours, quarter-hours, and minutes. Along with the tourbillion at 6
o’clock, the timepiece is presented in 45mm pink gold case and is limited to
only 10 pieces.
Roger Dubuis
Boosting the aesthetic appeal of the minute
repeater is Roger Dubuis’ Hommage Minute
Repeater Tourbillon Automatic, created in
celebration of the Manufacture’s 20th
anniversary.This limited edition timepiece
boasts a pink gold case housing the Calibre
RD104 movement, with a tourbillon and
minute repeater.The dial teases with just enough
skeletonisation to reveal the multi-layered movement
for a three-dimensional effect, and for the wearer to
admire the minute repeater mechanism in action.
Flip the timepiece around and the sapphire crystal
reveals not one, but two distinctive micro-rotors
spinning on the back of a movement that offers 60
hours of power reserve.
100
DESIGN
Double-finger ring by
Simone Jewels
SINGAPORE JEWELFEST 2015
by David Yip
G
ccolades
A
ilded
A glittering tribute to
Singapore’s Golden Jubilee
102
T
his year, Singapore JewelFest, Asia’s curated exhibition of
fine jewellery art, celebrates its 13th successive year. Along
with it comes a recognition of a milestone of its home
country — Singapore’s Golden Jubilee, known as SG50.
To mark the occasion, JewelFest 2015 will unveil a festival first — a
partnership with the National Museum of Singapore, to present a range of
original designs based on watercolour drawings from the William Farquhar
Collection of Natural History Drawings. ‘Dazzling Reminiscence’, as the
showcase is called, features six leading Singaporean designers and jewellery
houses drawing inspiration from this early-19th century series of 477
illustrations, depicting the region’s flora and fauna at the time. This legendary
collection of drawings was commissioned by the then-Commandant of Melaka,
William Farquhar, and is today housed in the National Museum.
Mr Kean Ng, Chairman of Singapore JewelFest said, “2015 is a milestone
for Singapore, and so our festival this year, our 13th edition, celebrates
Singapore’s heritage. We have put concerted efforts in curating amazing pieces
of jewellery that will be appreciated by Singaporeans.”
Selecting one particular drawing as a starting point, each designer creates a
single signature piece priced at $15,000 and above, featuring a unique or rare
gem. They also design a series of ready-to-wear collections that are extensions
of the signature piece, as well as limited edition pieces.
Designer Simone Ng of
Simone Jewels, a professed
history buff who often weaves
architectural and cultural
themes into her work, has
chosen the Black-capped
Kingfisher as her motif. “The
birds symbolise harmony, care, and
concern shared between us,” says
Simone. “The precious Peridot stone
has been chosen as the centre attraction
because it is the birthstone of August,
is known for prosperity and happiness,
and represents the greenery of the
Garden City, Singapore.”
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP RIGHT
Kenny and Shar-Linn
Liew from Kavant &
Sharart
Another bird, the Rhinoceros Hornbill,
is Shar-Linn Liew’s inspiration. This
designer from Kavant & Sharart, who
won the prestigious Centurion Emerging
Designer Award in 2013, focused on the
hornbill’s distinctive head and facial features
and rendered it in abstract, contemporary
outlines. “Its three-dimensional form
breathes life into the pieces and gives room
to one’s
one s imagination,
imagination,” Shar
Shar-Linn
Linn say
says
of her collection, which is graced
grace by
precious gemstones such as ccoral,
orange sapphire, blue sapp
sapphire,
and diamonds.
Painting of a Rhinoceros
Hornbill, Kavant
& Sharart's design
inspiration
Shar-Linn's signature
design
Painting of a Blackcapped Kingfisher,
Simone Ng's design
inspiration
Simone Ng of Simone
Jewels
103
DESIGN
The armour-scaled pangolin is the
unlikely subject of Caratell’s Michael Koh,
whose collection evokes the flexible, sinuous
forms of the animal. Set in 18k gold, the
signature piece captures the maternal
bond between the female pangolin and her
offspring, which she protectively folds into
her belly. As Michael explains, “A touch of
simple love creates an unbreakable bond
between mother and child.” Further seeking
to highlight the fragility of these endangered
mammals’ existence, Michael has woven
glittering diamonds and lustrous cabochon
jades into the pieces “to illustrate the beauty
of Nature, the home of the pangolins.”
The floral and botanical drawings of
the Farquhar Collection easily lend their
graceful forms and beautiful colours to
jewellery design. Ritu Aurora of Jaipore
Jewels has fashioned a collection of
contemporary pieces around the delicate
pink flowers of the Oleander. The designer
has paired the elegant almond-shaped leaf
with the pink- and rose-coloured flower
petals of the Oleander, creating an 18k
brooch set with yellow diamonds, pink
sapphires, and Rose cut diamonds. “I’ve
designed 18k earrings, rings, and pins
encrusted with coloured gemstones specially
for this collection,” says Ritu, “They are one
and only pieces.”
CLOCKWISE FROM
TOP
Michael Koh of Caratell
Painting of a Sunda
Pangolin, Koh's design
inspiration
An illustration of Koh's
ring design
Oleander-inspired
earrings in 18k gold,
encrusted with coloured
gemstones by Ritu
Aurora
Painting of oleander
flowers, Aurora's design
inspiration
Ritu Aurora of Jaipore
Jewels
104
CLOCKWISE FROM
LEFT
An illustration of a
pendant designed by
Lee Hwa Jewellery
Painting of Mangrove
Fan Palm, Lee Hwa's
design inspiration
Gold and diamond
leaf-inspired jewellery by
Vihari Sheth
Vihari Sheth of Vihari
Jewels
Painting of Torch
Ginger, Vihari's design
inspiration
The Torch Ginger in its entirety — from
buds to leaves to the red flowers with
their orange to yellow margins — proved
inspirational to designer Vihari Sheth of
Vihari, who hails from a third generation of
diamond dealers. “I wanted to take as many
elements as I could from the drawing, to
produce something beautiful to wear and
at the same time, memorable,” says Vihari of
her
h chic and contemporary
stylisations
stylisatio of the various
parts of the ginger
ging plant.
“I was determined that
th the
picture should come to life
through my jewellery, adding
another dimension to the
artist’s beautiful work!”
Lee Hwa, one of Singapore’s most
established fine jewellery houses, based its
collection on the magnificent Mangrove Fan
Palm. Its circular, fan-shaped leaves, small
white flowers, and fruits of bright orange
to red proved instantly inspirational to the
team of designers. The earrings, pendant,
and ring in the collection feature palmates,
each delicately crafted from white gold and
black rhodium, and perfectly polished black
and white diamonds. “We hope visitors
will be inspired by the pieces,” says Lee
Hwa’s Brand Manager, Adeline Chang, “and
feel proud of Singapore’s appreciation for
nature.”
With prices starting from $5,000, a
portion of the proceeds from the sale of
these pieces will be donated to the National
Museum of Singapore.
A portion of the
proceeds from the
sale of the pieces
will be donated to the
National Museum
of Singapore
105
REVIEW
VICENZAORO SEPTEMBER 2015
by Katherine Arteche
G oldA lchemy
A tribute to our industry’s design,
style and creative excellence
T
he annual
VICENZAORO
September Edition
jewellery show ran
from September 5 to 9 in Vicenza, and
honoured the industry’s elite and their
creative distinction. At its launch, the
Andrea Palladio International Jewellery
Awards 2015 recognised exceptional
international jewellery names. This year’s
jury was made up of notable figures in the
gold and jewellery industry. Several awards
were bestowed that night, with English
jeweller Shaun Leane walking home with
‘The Best International Jewellery Designer’,
Van Cleef & Arpels with the ‘Best Jewellery
106
Flagship Store 2014/2015’ and Tiffany & Co
with the ‘Best Jewellery Communication
Campaign 2014/2015’, among others.
The theme for the event was Gold
Alchemy, aptly named for such an
international gold and jewellery trade show.
Held in Fiera di Vicenza’s Palladio Theatre,
an array of beautiful jewellery from all over
the world was celebrated in a tribute to
the industry’s design and creativity. Guests
were treated to artistic performances that
complemented the Gold Alchemy theme,
comprising performances by singer Emma
Morton, gifted illusionist Simon Al Ani,
and Duo La Vision of Canadian theatre
entertainment Cirque du Soleil.
Guests admiring
jewellery on display
An array of
jewellery made of
different materials
from all over the
world
JANUARY 22-27, 2016
TWITTER.COM/XVICENZAORO
FACEBOOK.COM/VICENZAORO
VICENZA
Spring Summer Season
INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY SHOW
INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY TECHNOLOGY SHOW
VICENZAORO.COM
REVIEW
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL JEWELLERY EXPO 2015
by Katherine Arteche
Starlet gems that
stole the limelight
at SIJE 2015
B eauties
and the
R ough
T
FROM TOP
Models showcasing
masterpieces from all
over the world at the
Singapore International
Jewellery Expo 2015
Diamond necklace,
ZYDO
Masterpiece ring, IVY
New York
Pinnacle of the Ocean
ring, DEGEM
108
he 2015 edition of
Singapore’s International
Jewellery Expo turned
out to be the largest yet,
hosting over 12,000 buyers from 59 countries.
Visitors from India, China, and Thailand
turned out in numbers, becoming the biggest
buyers at the annual event. Held from July 2
to 5 at Singapore’s iconic Marina Bay Sands
Singapore Expo & Convention Centre, the
event was opened by Dr Lily Neo, Member
of Singapore’s Parliament. Further support
came from the Hong Kong Jewellery and Jade
Manufacturers Association and the Cambodian
Ministry of Commerce.
This annual consumer and trade jewellery
show is making its name by exhibiting a
growing line-up of exquisite gems and
affordable jewellery. Several unique precious
stones made their debut, priced from
SGD1 million and above per piece. One
of the more exquisite finds was DeGem’s
950ct natural unheated Burmese ruby rough.
The luxe jeweller also presented a second
masterpiece, a 38ct unheated Burmese sapphire
dubbed ‘Pinnacle of the Ocean’. The natural
blue sapphire sits in grandeur atop a blackened
gold ring, showing off its beautiful contrast.
IVY Masterpiece presented ‘The Million
Dollar Row’, comprising a rare collection of
Burmese ruby and diamond rings, earrings, and
bracelets.
Besides the lavish exhibition, guests were
treated to a fashion show, jewellery appreciation
talks, and a lucky draw. The winner of the grand
prize walked home with a $10,000 pendant
from luxe jeweller DeGem. The 3.8ct ruby
and diamond pendant featured 12 heartshaped Burmese rubies along with a glittering
accompaniment of a diamond floral pattern.
STYLE
E
astern
É
lan
Cultural impressions of strength
and delicacy in elaborate jewels
PHOTOGRAPHY: CHING STYLIST: DESMOND LIM
STYLIST ASSISTANT: JOEY TAN MAKEUP: DOLLEI SEAH USING TOM FORD
HAIR: GREG OH MODEL: MIRIAM FROM MANNEQUIN
110
JEWELLERY
FROM LEFT
White jade earrings with
rubelites and blue sapphires
on white gold; Moonstone
ring with cabochons and
diamonds, all from LA
PUTRI
Necklace with grey Tahiti,
South Sea and freshwater
pearls with blue sapphires
set in white gold; Ring with
pink freshwater pearls with
pavé diamonds set in white
gold; Ring with grey Tahiti
pearl and round brilliant
diamonds on white gold,
all from YOKO LONDON
available at Lee Hwa
Jewellery
TIMEPIECE
Ladies' Calatrava
Ref. 4897G-010 in white gold
with guilloché night blue
dial and diamonds, PATEK
PHILIPPE
111
STYLE
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
Earrings, rings, and
two necklaces adorned
with Polki, rubies, and
diamonds, by PC TOKUKA
available at JOCALIA by
ZENITH AFFAIR; Leman
Tourbillon Grande Date
Ref. 2825-4963N-055B
timepiece in 18k white gold,
BLANCPAIN
112
FROM TOP
Earrings and necklace
adorned with diamonds
and emerald on 18k white
gold, all from YULI INC.
FINE JEWELLERY;
Reine de Naples
Ref. 8958BB/55/974 D00D
06 Boutique Exclusive
timepiece featuring dial
made out of seashell, crafted
as a cameo representing the
Chinese astrological sign of
the sheep, from BREGUET
113
STYLE
FROM TOP
Cintrée Curvex timepiece
with six rows diamond
setting on case in white
gold, FRANCK MULLER;
Giglio Masterpiece ring
and earrings with white and
yellow diamonds, emeralds,
and rubies on white gold,
DAMIANI
114
FROM TOP
Detachable accessory used
for scarf, belt, etc; Earrings,
two rings and necklace,
adorned with white, black,
yellow, brown and light
brown diamonds and Tahiti
pearl on yellow and white
gold, all from QAYTEN;
Millenary Ladies' timepiece
in pink gold, AUDEMARS
PIGUET
115
STYLE
FROM LEFT
Bracelet-watch adorned
with full set of diamonds
and coral; Necklace in pink
gold with diamond pavé, all
from Serpenti collection by
BULGARI
116
JEWELLERY
FROM TOP
Tampa ring with white
diamonds in white gold;
Manhattan Flowers earrings
with round, pear-shaped
and rose-cut diamonds,
onyx and moonstones in
white gold; Black & White
coloured necklace with
round, pear-shaped, and
baguette-cut diamonds and
onyx in white gold, all from
VAN CLEEF & ARPELS
TIMEPIECE
Avenue C timepiece
adorned with
diamonds and
white light
Mother of Pearl
dial on 18k white
gold, HARRY
WINSTON
117
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118
ATELIER GALAS
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119
GALAS
The Orient Of Style
Damiani opens new flagship store in Tokyo
Earlier in August, Italian luxury jeweller Damiani unveiled its new
flagship store in the Ginza district of Tokyo. The new boutique is one
of the brand’s largest stores in the world, towering at nine storeys.
Damiani, which has 11 boutiques worldwide, also celebrated its
150th anniversary of trade relations between Italy and Japan. Since
its founding in 1924, the family-run business is well into its third
generation, with siblings Guido, Silvia, and Giorgio Damiani at the
helm. “We are growing a lot in Japan and we will continue to invest
in this country, which is one of the major focuses for our Group. The
Damiani brand is very well appreciated by Japanese consumers and
we expect significant growths from this country, with whom we have a
special relationship,” shares Guido, President of the Damiani Group.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT
The Damiani tower in Ginza; Inside the Damiani boutique; Mr Masahiro Morofuji (CEO of
ITOCHU Corp), Ms Silvia Damiani, Ms Hikari Mori, Mr Guido Damiani, Ms Suzuki (Owner of the
building), and Mr Kamikokuryo (CEO of Damiani Japan); Mr Guido Damiani and Ms Kou Shibazaki;
Mr Kamikokuryo, Ms Hikari Mori, Ms Silvia Damiani, Ms Rei Dan (actress), and Mr Guido Damiani
120
GALAS
A Garden Affair
Audemars Piguet and Gardens by the Bay
unveil large floral clock for SG50
In celebration of Singapore’s 50th year of independence, Gardens by
the Bay and Swiss watch manufacturer Audemars Piguet collaborated to
present a larger-than-life public Floral Clock in the heart of the Gardens.
Present at the unveiling was Minister for National Development, Mr
Khaw Boon Wan, who was joined by Dr Kiat W. Tan, CEO of Gardens
by the Bay, and Mr Oliviero Bottinelli, Member of the Board of Directors
of Audemars Piguet Holding SA. As its name suggests, the sevenmetre-wide Floral Clock is adorned with more than 5,000 tropical and
perennial plants that bring life to the signature octagonal frame of
Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT
The large Floral Clock; Dr Kiat W. Tan, Mr Oliviero Bottinelli, Mr Khaw Boon Wan, and Mr Thomas
Kupfer; Spider Flowers and Bachelor’s Buttons adorn the Floral Clock; Dr Kiat W. Tan, Mrs Mildred Tan,
Mr Khaw Boon Wan, Mr Oliviero Bottinelli, Mr Thomas Kupfer, Mr Antonio Seward, Mr Tan Wah Yeow,
Mr Gerald Tan, Mr Kenneth Er, Mr John Tan, and Mr Felix Loh; The Floral Clock up close
122
GALAS
Artisanal Gourmet
Art meets gastronomy at Blancpain’s 2015
Collection launch
Blancpain presented its 2015 Collection in an artistic fashion through
gastronomical creations at an event dubbed Art de Vivre, held in
Singapore’s lush Mount Pleasant Drive. The Swiss watch manufacturer
played host to 150 distinguished guests, who were treated to an
engraving showcase and an exclusive dinner led by Swiss chefs Gabriel
Serero and Julien Lerouxel. Jenny Hui, Vice President of Blancpain
South East Asia, graced the event. The 2015 Collection revealed several
highlights such as the Villeret Shakudo, Villeret Grande Date, and the
Jour Nuit for women.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT
Tastefully done table setting; Mr Dimitri Aubert (Area Sales Manager of Blancpain, Asia Pacific);
Women Ladybird Ultraplate in rose gold on display; Ms Shirley Fong and Mr Fabrice Imparato;
Guest admiring the 2015 collection; Ms Serene Layanto and Ms Angela Ng; Mr Zach Toh and
Ms Jenny Hui; Mr Tay Kok Choon, Mr Jeremy Tan, and Mr Larry Wee
124
ELITE PU B L I S HI NG ( T HAI L AND) C O. , LT D.
3 3 S O I P R A D I PAT 1 7 , P R A D I PAT R D . , S A M S E N N A I , P H AYAT H A I
B A N G K O K 1 0 4 0 0 T E L . 0 2 2 7 8 3 0 8 7 - 8 FA X . 0 2 2 7 8 3 0 8 7 # 1 0 4
[email protected]
GALAS
Ode To Talent
& Philanthropy
Montblanc celebrates Singapore’s 50th
Golden Jubilee
Montblanc’s two-week long SG50 Exhibition, which ran from
August 6 to 21 at Ngee Ann Civic Plaza in Singapore, was wrapped
up in an altruistic and artful manner. At the closing ceremony,
Mr Andreas Boesch, Managing Director of Montblanc South
East Asia, donated a cheque of SGD50,000 to Pathlight School,
Singapore’s first autism-focused institution. As a token of gratitude,
he was presented an artwork illustrating Singapore’s architecture
and scenery done by artist Glenn Phua. The brand also awarded
three winners from the ‘Montblanc SG50’ Instagram competition a
Montblanc writing instrument each.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT
Mr Andreas Boesch (Managing Director, Monrtblanc SEA), welcoming guests
to the event; Some highlights of the exhibition; Mr Russell Ong; Ms Grace Ciao
(SG50 Instagram Competition Winner) and Mr Andreas Boesch; Ms Goh Boon
Keng, Mr Andreas Boesch, Glenn Phua, Muhd Khairul Bin Asmi, Ng Li Jie & Megan
Lee (Students of Pathlight School); Mr Andreas Boesch and Ms Goh Boon Keng
(Director of Partner Engagement, Pathlight School)
126
GALAS
Star-Studded Soiree
Piaget jewels adorn stars on the Shanghai
red carpet
The 18th Shanghai International Film Festival’s closing ceremony
saw stars on the red carpet donning watches and jewellery from Swiss
luxury brand Piaget. Most lauded for his debut film, Ilo Ilo, which roped
several awards including Best Debut Feature at Cannes, Singaporean
director Anthony Chen was seen sporting a 40mm 18k white gold
Piaget Altiplano timepiece. Alongside him were stars of his latest film
Distance, Chayanit Chansangavej and Taiwanese actor Chen Bolin, who
also opted for a white gold Piaget Altiplano. Also at the event, Taiwanese
actress Janine Chang was seen wearing the Piaget Rose Collection,
while Chinese actor Huang Xuan sported the Piaget Altiplano 900P.
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT
Chen Bolin and Chayanit Chansangavej; Janine
Chang; Xin Yukun, Chen Bolin, Chayanit
Chansangavej, and Anthony Chen; Huang Xuan;
Piaget Rose jewellery pieces; The Altiplano 900P
128
HOROSCOPE
Orchid brooch with coloured
sapphires and tsavorite garnets
in 18k blackened and yellow
gold, Sold at TIANCHENG
INTERNATIONAL Spring
2015 Auction
HOROSCOPE
by Olive Cuenca
Sagittarius
Gemini
A great opportunity to further your
career may pass you by if you become too
comfortable with your current situation.
Take each day as it comes, but keep your
eyes peeled for any prospects outside your
line of work. Expand your professional
network and sign up for any short courses to
learn new skills. Red gemstones will inspire
you to make bold decisions.
Busy days are ahead, and distractions will
find you no matter how much you yearn for
some peace and quiet. Sleeping problems
are also likely. Keep your sunny personality
intact and always look on the bright side.
Friends will seek you out for help, and
lending them assistance would mean a lot to
them. Sapphire facilitates discernment and
harmony.
Capricorn
Cancer
(22 NOVEMBER – 21 DECEMBER)
(22 DECEMBER – 19 JANUARY)
Updating your wardrobe is a fantastic
way to enhance your looks and express
your individuality. Being resourceful and
creative has its perks, but don’t go overboard
especially when going on business trips and
meeting clients for the first time. Stick to the
classics when in doubt. You can never go
wrong with diamonds.
Aquarius
(20 JANUARY – 18 FEBRUARY)
Love and success could be happily caught in
the net if you navigate your sea of emotions
with care. It’s easy to get frustrated on things
that are hard to get hold of, but keep your
focus and rewards will follow. Be patient.
Make time in your life for things that are
healthy and fun. Jade helps calm you down.
Pisces
(19 FEBRUARY – 20 MARCH)
The world is your oyster, and this quarter is
a good time for you to make your mark and
tap your unlimited potential. You are bound
to get all fired up, and slowing down may be
difficult. Avoid overcommitment as it may
be your kryptonite. Take a break when it gets
all too busy. Turquoise brings tranquillity,
comfort and relaxation.
Aries
(21 MARCH – 19 APRIL)
You might feel the urge to declutter your
life, and preparing an exhaustive to-do list
is a good way to start. Love, family, career,
wellness — there’s just so much to take care
of to build the ideal life you have in mind.
Long-term plans should take priority, and
personal sacrifices in the short term are
essential. Agate encourages determination
and perseverance.
130
(21 MAY – 20 JUNE)
Scorpio
(23 OCTOBER – 21 NOVEMBER)
(21 JUNE – 22 JULY)
Just when you thought you have made
peace with your past comes an unexpected
encounter with an old romantic partner that
will throw you off balance. Avoid the pitfalls of
thinking too much, and be content with what
you currently have. Looking back will do you
no good. Amethyst and moonstone help calm
the mind and promote understanding.
An invitation to a
party could send your
Leo
adrenaline off the
your enthusiasm to live a healthier
charts! You would want Reawaken
life and you will see positive changes not only
in your physical and mental state, but also in
to look your best after
your social interactions. Avoid fad diets and
save an ample fridge space for some greens
months of hiatus in
to keep your health in check. Fancy coloured
gemstones will add colour to your newfound
the social sphere. Take
lifestyle.
caution when you go
Virgo
shopping as distractions A career advancement you have long been
may be more elusive than you think.
are aplenty. Pearls are eyeing
Resist the urge to underperform. Continue
with your good work, and good things will
wonderful dazzlers to
follow. It may not be in the way you want it,
but for sure your hard work will pay off. Rose
boost your elegance.
quartz promotes acceptance and rekindles
(23 JULY – 22 AUGUST)
(23 AUGUST – 22 SEPTEMBER)
lost enthusiasm.
Taurus
Libra
Major changes are forthcoming, and going
with the flow is the best way to go. Keep
an open mind and seek ways to adapt
rather than to resist. Make new friends
and push your social skills a bit further.
Maintaining a positive attitude will boost your
approachability factor. Create a playful aura
with opal and amber.
An unfinished business from the past will
occupy your mind and prevent you from
making sound decisions. Deal with the
problem head on, and you’ll realise the
difference between forgiving and forgetting.
Seek help from a trusted friend if anxiety
becomes unbearable. Citrine promotes
mental and emotional health.
(20 APRIL – 20 MAY)
(23 SEPTEMBER – 22 OCTOBER)
RING
RINGGUIDE
GUIDE
Your Ring
A ring is a very intimate piece of jewellery; some are worn
every day. This means it should fit well and feel comfortable,
so here are some important sizing tips.
Finding Your
Ring Size
Place your ring on top of any one of
these circles. The size of your ring is
where the circle sits snugly around
the inner circumference of the ring.
12 (16.7MM)
2 (13.2MM)
3 (14MM)
13 (16.9MM)
4 (14.1MM)
CLOCKWISE
L
W FROM TOP
Josephine ring with South Sea pearls and diamonds,
BIBIGI; Rose gold ring with diamond-encrusted
petals cradling a 15mm metallic cherry pink pearl,
SCHOEFFEL; Ring featuring a golden South
Sea pearl set with diamonds in 18k yellow gold,
JEWELMER; Ring in 18k black gold with 21mm
South Sea baroque pearl and 0.37ct diamonds,
YOKO LONDON; Gem-set Ocean ring with
Paraiba tourmaline, conch pearl, cultured pearl,
and yellow diamonds, Sold at Tiancheng
International Spring Auction 2014
14 (17.3MM)
5 (14.3MM)
15 (17.7MM)
6 (14.7MM)
16 (18.1MM)
7 (14.9MM)
8 (15.3MM)
17 (18.5MM)
9 (15.7MM)
Where Size Matters
A person’s ring size may change over time
owing to age, injury or weight change. A
jeweller may be able to resize your ring,
although this depends on its design.
If your finger falls between two sizes, choose
the larger size to make sure it will fit; a wider
ring may require a slightly larger size, because
it covers more of your finger.
Measure your finger size at the end of the day
when your fingers are at their largest (like
sizing shoes).
Wrap a piece of string or a strip of paper
around your finger. Mark the point where the
two ends meet. Measure the string or paper
against a ruler to get the circumference of
your finger. Divide that by 3.14 to get the
diameter of your finger. Look up your ring size
using the table shown on the right.
Don’t measure finger sizes when your hands
are cold; let them warm up to room
temperature.
18 (19.0MM)
10 (16.1MM)
19 (19.4MM)
11 (16.5MM)
(Sizing is for China, Singapore, Taiwan, Macau and
Japan; Hong Kong uses a different scale)
132 132
LIFE BEYOND FIRST CLASS
WWW.JETGALA.COM
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Jetgala Magazine
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SHOW
FACETS
DIARY
October 2015
December 2015
30 SEP — 3 OCT
SIHH Watches & Wonders
Hong Kong
www.watchesandwonders.com
9 — 12 DEC
Dubai International Jewellery Week
Dubai World Trade Centre
Dubai, United Arab Emirates
www.jewelleryshow.com
9 — 18 OCT
Singapore JewelFest 2015
Ngee Ann City Civic Plaza, Singapore
www.singaporejewelfest.com
22 — 25 OCT
UBM-Singapore Jewelry and Gem Fair
Marina Bay Sands, Singapore
singaporejewellerygemfair.com
November 2015
6 — 9 NOV
Malaysia International Jewellery Festival
(Autumn Edition)
Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
www.mij.com.my
20 — 23 NOV
UBM-Taiwan Jewellery & Gem Fair
Taipei World Trade Centre
Taipei, Taiwan
www.events.ubm.com/event/3192/taiwanjewellery-gem-fair
20 — 27 NOV
A Journey Through Time 2015
Starhill Gallery, Jalan Bukit Bintang
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
24 — 28 NOV
Jewellery Arabia 2015
Bahrain International Exhibition &
Convention Centre
Bahrain, United Arab Emirates
www.jewelleryarabia.com
15 – 18 JAN
Malaysia International Jewellery Fair (Spring
Edition)
Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
www.mijf.com.my
18 – 22 JAN
Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie
Geneva, Switzerland
www.sihh.org
22 – 27 JAN
VICENZAORO January + T-Gold
Vicenza, Italy
january.vicenzaoro.com
February 2016
12 – 15 FEB
Inhorgenta Munich
Messe Munchen
Munich, Germany
www.inhorgenta.com
March 2016
1 – 5 MAR
HKTDC Hongkong International Diamond,
Gem & Pearl Show
AsiaWorld-Expo, Hong Kong
www.hktdc.com/fair/hkdgp-en
3 – 7 MAR
HKTDC Hongkong International Jewellery
Show
Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition
Centre, Hong Kong
www.hktdc.com/fair/hkdgp-en
3 – 7 MAR
VIZENZAORO Hong Kong T-Gold
Hong Kong
hongkong.vicenzaoro.com
17 – 24 MAR
Baselworld 2016
Messe Basel, Switzerland
www.baselworld.com
Show
Diary
26 — 29 NOV
Hong Kong International Jewelry
Manufacturers’ Show
Hong Kong
www.jewelry.org.hk/en/
134
January 2016
24 – 26 FEB
57th Bangkok Gems and Jewellery Fair
Impact Exhibition & Convention Center
Bangkok, Thailand
www.bangkokgemsfair.com
VIETNAM’S FIRST &
LEADING WATCH MAGAZINE
WWW.THOIGIAN-MAGAZINE.COM
Vietnam’s only watch magazine with
a proud and consistent ten-year history
Thoigian Magazine
JEWEL BOX
DASHI NAMDAKOV
by Maripet Ledesma Poso
A ll T heW orld’s
A S tage
Thespian life immortalised in precious jewellery
I
n theatre, ordinary life is transformed. From the extremely phenomenal, to the utterly absurd,
or the intensely melancholic. Not much in between. Thespians thrive on drama, tension, and
spectacle. Our fascination with the theatre goes back to the 6th Century BC when Thespis, a
Greek priest, first appeared on stage as an actor.
For Mongolian-Russian artist Dashi Namdakov, his interest in the theatre goes beyond spectating. He creates
art that immortalises spectacular theatrics. His Garuda bracelet does not only offer glimpses of the rainbow
world of theatres. It pulls you, almost hypnotising you, to join in the spectacle. Made of 18k yellow gold, and
designed to sheathe the upper arm, this Venetian mask-inspired bracelet is both odd and beautiful, ponderous
and wonderful — exactly like a mesmerising drama unfolding on stage.
“A mask of gold hides all deformities”
Thomas Dekker (1572 - 1632)
136
Reine de Naples High Jewellery “Crazy Flower”
in every wom an is a queen
B R E G U E T B O U T I Q U E – 2 B A Y F R O N T A V E N U E T H E S H O P P E S A T M A R I N A B A Y S A N D S # B 1-119 / 12 0 S I N G A P O R E + 6 5 6 3 3 8 6 0 0 6 – W W W . B R E G U E T . C O M