Review 20150902 - Right On! Replicas

Transcription

Right On Replicas, LLC Step-by-Step Review 20150902*
F-100 Super Sabre 1:48 Scale Revell Model Kit #85-5317 Review
The North American F-100 Super Sabre was the world’s first jet fighter capable of supersonic speed in
level flight. The F-100 was initially designed for interceptor and nuclear strike roles. It served with the
United States Air Force from 1954 to 1971 and with the Air National Guard until 1979. When war broke out
in Southeast Asia, the F-100Ds were deployed to provide air superiority over the skies of Vietnam much
like the F-86s did over Korea. Unfortunately, the lack of radar rendered the F-100s ineffective for air-to-air
combat and the F-100 was relegated to air-to-ground duties in the skies over Laos, Cambodia and Vietnam
as a fighter bomber. It flew extensively over South Vietnam as the air force's primary close air support jet in
this capacity and excelled for a while, but its age began to show against the newer aircraft entering the war,
eventually being replaced by the more efficient subsonic the LTV A-7 Corsair II. In the end, F-100s also
served in other NATO air forces and with other U.S. allies. The F-100D would serve in numerous air forces
around the world and many ended their careers as target drones for missile testing and/or training. The
aircraft was often referred to as the “Hun”, a shortened version of one hundred.
For the Modeler: This review covers the reissued North American F-100D Super Sabre 1:48 Scale Revell
model Kit #85-5317. It is a skill level 2 plastic kit molded in light gray with a clear canopy containing 91
parts. The kit does have a positionable Canopy, Stabilizers, Ammo and Gun bay doors, Speed brakes, and
if the modeler chooses, the front wing slats can be shown in the closed position by removing the tabs on
the front of the wing and gluing the slats in the closed position. The kit also provides under wing ordinance
Right On Replicas, LLC ©2015 All rights reserved. *All registered trademarks are the property of their respective brands.
Follow the manufacturer’s safety recommendations for any product mentioned here.
consisting of two Mk 82 500 lb. bombs with extended fuses, 2 Bullpup AGM-12Bs and under wing fuel drop
tanks. This kit also features a detailed cockpit with a pilot figure and a ground crewman. The kit has been
released previously in other versions. Decals provided are for two different Aircraft: 1.) F-100D-30-NA, 553712, Pahokee Tiger, 308th TFS,31st TFW Bien Hoa, Vietnam, December 1965 (although the box and the
instruction sheet states 1955) 2.) F-100D-90-NA, 56-3321 494th FBS, 48th TFW, Weapons Team,
Chaumont Air Base, France 1958. Completed dimensions are: Length 13-11/16” Wing Span 9¾”.
(Pic1) (Pic2) This is the kit’s Box Art and the general layout of the sprue trees.
(Pic3) These are the decals and clear canopy pieces
(Pic 4) The cockpit pieces before painting.
(Pic 5) The overall parts were spray painted camouflage gray then detail painted. There were many
variations of the cockpit side panels and it appears that Revell did a compilation of them since I found no
reference depicting the exact layout as molded. I picked out the various panels in flat black and then dry
brushed with silver and grays, then went back and picked out various switched and knobs painted them red
and yellow as seen in various reference pics I found on Google and books that I have on hand. The seat
was assembled and again there are various color combos of the cushion and back board. I chose Red for
the back board and OD for the seat cushion
although not much of either will be seen when
pilot is added. The seat belts were painted with a
mix of Khaki and white, but again, it will be
covered by the pilot.
(Pic 6) Cockpit tub assembled
(Pic 7) (Pic 8) Instrument panel gauges in the center section are a decal that was put on using the Micro
Scale two-part Set and Sol decal solutions. The panel itself has raised gauges so they can be painted
leaving off the decal if desired. The cockpit tub is shown inserted and glued in place. The outer cockpit
equipment (molded in placed) was rough painted flat black with silver and gray dry brushing, following
colors from reference pictures and instructions. While this was set aside to dry I went on to the Crew
figure.
(Pic 9) On the sprue you can see the flash on The Crew and the clean up that needs to be done on those
parts.
(Pic 10) (Pic 11) The
Ground Crewman
was painted in a dark
green fatigue color
then washed with
black. The thinned
down black paint
wash was applied
with a large brush, I
then hung the figure
upside down, he had
been glued
temporarily to a thin
plastic base, to allow
the black to settle at
the top of the uniform
creases producing
shadows. I then dry
brushed a lighten
version of the original
dark green from the
top down producing
highlights. Then detail
the belt and rag and tools on the back side. The pilot was painted approximately the same way but since I
wasn’t using him I didn’t spend as much time as I did on his replacement. After removing figures and
adding pilots arm I got looking at the pilots helmet and oxygen gear and it seemed kind of old fashion from
what I could remember seeing in Vietnam pictures so I did some research and here is what I found, two
types of helmets and oxygen masks were worn by Century Series pilots. The PA-4 helmet and mask were
used in the fifties.
(Pic 12) (Pic 13) . The helmet used at the time that the F-100 was deployed to Vietnam the mask used by
crews was the MBU-5/P in conjunction with an individually form-fitted helmet with clear and tinted visors.
So rather than use the pilot that came with the kit I used a left over pilot from another kit. A period correct
pilot is found in the F-4C 1/48th Monogram Kit # 85-5859. They are parts #75 (pilot) and 76 (pilot’s arm).
Any kit supplied pilot with this helmet style will do in scale. I painted him using a medium green trying to
match the color of the flight suit of that time. Again the same process was used as described above. I
painted the helmet green for contrast and the fact that the 308th TFS was called the “Emerald Knights.”
(Pic 14) (Pic 15) Main wing sprue and Copyright of 1980. Still, it’s the best 48th scale kit in my opinion,
even though it’s a little older. These were removed from sprue cleaned up and glued together.
(Pic 16) Use some clothes pins to keep the wing clamped together until dry.
(Pic 17) (Pic 18) The tail parts again used clothes pins to clamp parts together
(Pic 19) The kit is unique in that the fuselage is in to halves but rather then Right and Left it is done as the
top and bottom. Shown here is the bottom half. There are few alignment pins in fact only 2 pins at the front
and the main wing assembly locks the center in place but the rear needs a little help to keep the fuselage
straight so I glued tabs about ¾” to 1” plastic in place at the rear where there we no pins to help out. I
remember reading this tip years ago and it came back to mind when I was test fitting the halves.
(Pic 20) (Pic 21) These are the alignment tabs and where I placed them
(Pic 22) Here is the lower fuselage with main wing in place and the upper with cockpit tub installed. There
are raised markings on the underside of the port wing. It’s another copyright stamp that should be removed
with a sharp blade and sanded out for a contest build.
(Pic 23) The three main parts were glued and taped overnight to dry. The fit is excellent and just a little
putty and clean up were needed.
(Pic 24) I
added two
more tabs
after the
fuselage
dried to
help get the
exhaust
cone to stay
lined up
since there
are no pins
and it is just
a surface to
surface
gluing.
(Pic 25) With the tail and nose pieces installed and the cockpit area masked off I primed the Aircraft with
Tamiya light gray primer then sprayed Krylon gloss black and allowed it to dry overnight. A gloss black
base gives the silver a more pronounced color.
(Pic 26) (Pic 27) Part #6, the F-102 afterburner. This can ONLY be used on ANG aircraft as no Regular AF
units got to use this A/B (much to their chagrin, as this 'burner was more reliable and maintenance free).
The one I used is the correct one for the USAF version.
(Pic 28 ) The aircraft was sprayed with Matte aluminum. All compartments will be painted interior green and
the detail with dry brushing, washes and some individual detail painting. While this dries overnight I will
paint and build/components the rest of the parts for final assembly.
(Pic 30) (Pic 31) While the Aircraft dried overnight I assembled 1 of each ordinance, painted and took a
picture showing the parts un-built and built. They are very easy with only 2 halves to be glued and held
together with clothes pin clamps. There is no information except to paint the bombs olive drab and the
bullpup missile white. I used Testors spray can Olive Drab FS34087and the Bullpup was sprayed with
Krylon Semi-gloss white. I used the Hasegawa weapons kits painting instructions info and painted the
bombs nose yellow, extended fuses were OD with red retainer rings, while the actual fuses on nose and tail
were painted a mix of 40% gold and 60% according to the Hasegawa instructions. The Bullpups were
painted white with different yellow and black rings, OD nose.
(Pic 32) (Pic 34) The other bombs and Bullpups were built and painted. I also painted the ordinance
mounts aluminum silver and painted data blocks in black, red and white in the various locations I found in
reference pics. I then attached them to the actual weapon, preparing them for mounting on the aircraft in
the final phases. I try to make it a habit of working on small components while the main parts are drying,
since I normally don’t attach them until after the decals and final clear coat is sprayed on the aircraft.
(Pic 35) The fuel tanks
consist of two halves
which I glued together
and clamped again with
Clothes pins until dry
then spray painted
using a can of Color
Place aluminum.
(Pic 36) When it dried it was a different shade of silver than I was looking for. Remember to test your
finishes on a plastic spoon prior to use to make sure you get what you want!
(Pic 37) (Pic 38) The hydraulic dive brake actuators were painted flat white with light blue hydraulic hoses
and silver extension arms (from a detailed picture found in reference) and dive brake itself is painted
aluminum interior/exterior.
(Pic 40 ) The wheel wells, gun bay, and dive brake compartments were painted interior green and then
picked out the various lines in silver and used Tamiya clear blue for the AN Connectors and various shades
of gray and black then did a black wash to make them stand out.
(Pic 41 ) (Pic 42 ) The Nose gear parts and main gear parts painted aluminum and washed with black to
bring out the detail. Needing some detail painting before assembly, mainly a few black hydraulic hoses.
The tires were hand painted with MM flat black, as were the hydraulic hoses.
(Pic 44 ) I
sprayed the
Fuselage with
clear gloss to
apply the
decals and
realized I
should airbrush
the rear
fuselage
exhaust burns
first. I went to
Google and
pulled up some
F-100 pictures
and found one I
could enlarge
and get a good
idea how the
burned area
should look, in
doing this I
realized each
and every F200 actually
burn like that
(on the
camouflage version it actually burned the paint off) and no two aircraft burned the same so however you
paint it will be fine. I taped off the fuselage area where the fuselage got so hot in after burner flight that the
metal changed color due to the heat after the clear gloss dried. I then masked off the area in front of the
exhaust cone and airbrushed a steel color I made up by mixing approximately 40% black with 60%
aluminum.
(Pic 45) (Pic 46 ) After the steel paint on the exhaust cone area dried I masked over it and airbrushed the
burn area with MM acrylic aluminum. The next color I went with was Tamiya clear blue and painted the
vertical burn lines, I actually just added it to the remnants of the silver in the airbrush paint cup.
(Pic 47 ) (Pic 48 ) Added some black to the blue and airbrushed them again. Next I used some Vallejo
Model color flat brown and red leather over the blue,
(Pic 49) I followed that
with a light overspray
of aluminum to bring it
all together, and I like
the results I got.
(Pic 50 ) (Pic 51) Decal application finished following instruction sheet for the 308th TFS Bien Hoa, Vietnam
1966. I used the Microscale two-part set/solvent on these leaving great results.
(Pic 52) The decals on the underside. The decal sheet is a very nice one providing not only colorful ones
but all the little stencils that would be on the real aircraft and some are quite small, so one really needs to
take their time with these as they tend to disappear sometimes, getting stuck to the fingers or applicator
used to position them.
(Pic54) On the real F-100 the
shark mouth colors seem
slightly different than the real
ones, but they are acceptable
for me.
(Pic 55) After the decals were finished and aircraft was sprayed with Krylon semi-gloss clear. The clear
actually dulls/flattens out the shine of the metallic silver to a more aged/weathered finish. The final
assemblies to be added are shown here, painted and almost ready to be put on.
(Pic56) The first parts added after the clear dried were the wing slats. These were not cleared as well as
some of the other pieces to give different shade of silver as most aircraft have.
(Pic 57) (Pic 58) The nose gear consists of the two tires/wheels, gear strut and support and the doors. The
wheels were glue in place on the strut which was then glue in the locating hole (which is a D-shaped
opening matching the end of the strut so you can't get it in wrong) after that I added the support strut and
doors.
(Pic 59) (Pic 60) The main landing gear are a little more complex than the nose gear. On the main gear you
have the tire/wheel, strut and two strut doors. One goes on the strut and one on an actuator arm next to
the strut for both sides. The main doors are molded as one piece and the two large curved ones are
molded to the middle support but are able to be bent to the open “V” position then glued into place, there
are two little ones you see at the top in the picture that you glue in place (a nice option if you are doing a
wheels up build in flight model display) I used the regular Testors orange tube glue almost exclusively on
this build where I normally only use it on the landing gear on aircraft. The gears were then allowed dry over
night and are good and stable when the tube glue dries to a good bond.
(Pic 61) (Pic 62) The dive brake was added
next. I used the tube glue to tack the
hydraulic actuators in the approximate
position, making sure the hydraulic hoses
were facing the brake well and then glued the
dive brake plate in place by locating the end
of the actuator rods in the small locating holes
and made sure everything was in line and not
crooked. You could have also glued it closed.
(Pic 63) The Bullpup missiles
were the first to be mounted
under the wings since they
were closest to the fuselage.
(Pic 64) Next, the fuel tanks with stabilizing arms were mounted and finally the 500lb bombs. Now the
under wing ordinance assemblies, the refueling probe and nose probe is added. You can see where some
of the ordinance is positioned over the decals so it’s a good idea to do them before final assembly.
(Pic 65) (Pic 67) The final parts to be done are the pilot and three clear parts, the gun sight, front wind
screen and canopy. The pilot was pre-painted and lightly glued to the seat. I painted the canopy and wind
screen by using silly putty to hold it (it is somewhat sticky and holds the part nicely) and a fine brush. Using
aluminum paint I painted the frames using the molded frame lines as my guide. Once painted I set them
aside to dry and glued the gun sight in place using Testors window glue which dries clear in case you get
some past the painted frames. After the paint dried I glued the windscreen in place the glued the canopy lift
mechanism into the rear of the canopy under the painted frame and allowed it to dry in place. Finally, glue
the assembly into the open position.
Pic 998 A starboard view of the model.
Overall: For a 1980s original release this kit was a joy to build. The setbacks for me were the flash, mold
lines and ejector pin marks which were abundant and time consuming throughout. The wing tanks were a
little short, although they don’t detract from the overall look of the finished kit. I also wish the kit had a better
weapons selection since the Bullpup proved to be of little value in Vietnam and a 750lb M117 bomb or
napalm bomb would be better choices. The instructions were simply line drawings that were a little vague
on part placement locations. On the bright side, I loved the upper and lower half fuselage assemblies
sandwiching the main wing in between. Also notable was the leading edge wing slat option to remove the
actuators and glue the slats in the closed position. Surprisingly, no nose weight was needed for this build
and there was no problem with its
stance. The decals were
excellent and released from
the film quickly and stuck to
the model, accepting the twostep Microscale decal setting
system quite well. I only used
a small amount of filler putty
in a few locations. The fit of
all the parts was great
although I had to add
alignment tabs on the rear
fuselage and tail cone area to
ensure placement there.

Review 20150902 - Right On! Replicas

Transcription

Similar documents

Review 20150713 - Right On! Replicas

Pimp my kite sheet

Schnitz Racing

Review 20151001

Review 20140410 - Right On! Replicas

PIC genetics help major Portuguese pork producer

Preteen PICS - Clear Camps

Pegasus final w industries