Provided for non-commercial research and education use
Transcription
Provided for non-commercial research and education use
Provided for non-commercial research and education use. Not for reproduction, distribution or commercial use. The attached copy is furnished to the author for internal non-commercial research and education use, including for instruction at the authors institution and sharing with colleagues. Other uses, including reproduction and distribution, or selling or licensing copies, or posting to personal, institutional or third party websites are prohibited. In most cases authors are permitted to post their version of the article (e.g. in Word or Text form) to their personal website or institutional repository. Authors requiring further information regarding The Royal Swedish Academy of Agriculture and Forestry’s archiving and manuscript policies are encouraged to visit: www.ksla.se www.kslab.se vid fjällets fot Vid fjällets fot Donatorn A.W. Bergsten och hans Enaforsholm i Västjämtland – från jaktvilla till fjällgård At the Mountain’s Foot Benefactor A.W. Bergsten and his Enaforsholm in West Jämtland – from hunting lodge to mountain farm red./ed. hans antonson kungl. skogs- och lantbruksakademien Skogs- och lantbrukshistoriska meddelanden nr 60 Supplement till Kungl. Skogs- och Lantbruksakademiens Tidskrift issn 1402-0386 isbn 978-91-86573-29-4 Boken har utgivits med ekonomiskt stöd av: Stiftelsen A.W. Bergstens donation Omslagsbild: Enaforsholm mot Storlien med Enafors stationssamhälle till höger i bakgrunden. foto: Margareta Ihse, 23 augusti 2012. Försvarsmaktens publiceringsmedgivande 2012-09-06, 10 830: 10906. Cover photo: Enaforsholm photographed towards Storlien. In the upper right corner lies Enafors station. photo: Margareta Ihse, 23rd August, 2012. Swedish Armed Forces publications permit 06/09/2012, 10 830: 10906. Försättsblad: Enaforsholm med Ånnsjön i bakgrunden. foto: Margareta Ihse, 23 augusti 2012. Försvarsmaktens publiceringsmedgivande 2012-09-06, 10 830: 10906. Front end-paper: Enaforsholm with Ånnsjön lake in the background. photo: Margareta Ihse, 23rd August, 2012. Swedish Armed Forces publications permit 06/09/2012, 10 830: 10906. Eftersättsblad: Enaälvens fors fotograferad mot norr från Enaforsholms västra klippstrand. foto: Hans Antonson, 2 augusti 2005. Back end-paper: The Enan River Falls, looking north from the western slab-rock shore at Enaforsholm. photo: Hans Antonson, 2nd August 2005. Beställning av boken kan göras från: Kungl. Skogs- och Lantbruksakademiens bibliotek (KSLAB) Box 6806, 113 86 Stockholm Besöksadress: Drottninggatan 95 B Tel: 08-54 54 77 20 E-post: [email protected] Skogs- och lantbrukshistoriska meddelanden nr 60 Utgiven av: Enheten för de areella näringarnas historia (ANH), Kungl. Skogs- och Lantbruksakademien Förteckning över tidigare utgivna pubikationer från ANH finns längst bak i denna bok Redaktörer för serien: Lars Ljunggren & Per Thunström Redaktör: Hans Antonson Översättning: Roger & Kerstin Tanner, Ordväxlingen AB English translation: Roger & Kerstin Tanner, Ordväxlingen AB Grafisk form & repro: Elina Antell, Gyllene Snittet, Uppsala Tryck: Exaktaprinting, Malmö, 2012 issn 1402-0386 isbn 978-91-86573-29-4 Innehåll åke barklund Enaforsholm då, nu och i morgon – ett akademiföretal 7 kerstin nibleaus Upplevelser och minnen från Enaforsholm – en essä 11 nils edling Alexander Wilhelm Bergsten och hans värld 13 hans antonson Landskapet i Västjämtland och vid Enaforsholm 68 madelene seberbrink, daniel rutgersson & hans antonson Bebyggelsen vid Enaforsholm, i går, i dag och i morgon151 kjell lundquist Fjällbrud och kurilerlärk, jordgubbar och hjortron – om Enaforsholm, dess örter, träd och buskar183 maria sandström & maja rytorp Enaforsholms fjällträdgård246 åke bruce & margareta ihse Vegetationsrutorna på Enaforsholm 251 hans antonson Markernas restaurering vid Enaforsholm 261 hans antonson Lénström, Carl August Emanuel – en inledning 267 carl a.e. lénström Enafors i Jämtland, betraktadt ur turistsynpunkt (Omtryck ur Svenska Turistföreningens årsskrift 1903) 269 roger bergström, kjell danell & hans antonson Jakt som näring och livsstil i Jämtland och Enaforsholm 280 ingemar näslund Fisket i västra Jämtland – en viktig och omstridd resurs 313 hans antonson Efterord och tack 338 Bilagor 340 Författarpresentationer 357 hans antonson Summary 363 Enaforsholms fjällträdgård och huvudbyggnaden. foto: Margareta Ihse, 23 augusti 2012. Enaforsholm mountain garden and the main building. photo: Margareta Ihse, 23rd August 2012. Författarpresentationer Hans Antonson antonson, hans, född 1963 i Stockholm. Han tog examen i arkeologi, geovetenskap, geografi och kulturgeografi. Doktor i kulturgeografi år 2004 på en avhandling om landskapsförändringar i Jämtland mellan 1000 och 1750. 1994–98 arbetade han som utredare och expert vid länsstyrelsen i Södermanlands län, Riksantikvarieämbetet och Jordbruksdepartementet. Sedan 1999 har Antonson arbetat som forskare vid Statens väg- och transportforskningsinstitut (VTI) i Linköping. Forskningen har varit inriktad på miljöfrågor (främst landskap), planeringsprocesser och körbeteende. Antonson driver en egen jordbruksfastighet i Småland på fritiden. [email protected]; [email protected] antonson, hans, was born in 1963 in Stockholm. Graduating in archaeology, geoscience, geography and human geography, he gained a Ph.D. in human geography in 2004 with a dissertation on landscape change in the province of Jämtland, 1000–1750. In 1994–98 he worked as an investigator and expert for the Södermanland County Administrative Board, Sweden’s National Heritage Board, and the Ministry of Agriculture, Fisheries, and Food. Since 1999 he has been a senior researcher at VTI (the Swedish National Road and Transport Research Institute) in Linköping. His research interests include environmental issues (primarily landscape), planning procedure, EIA, and driving behaviour. In his spare time, Antonson runs a farm of his own in the province of Småland. [email protected]; [email protected] Roger Bergström bergström, roger, född 1946 i Norrala socken i Hälsingland. Han tog examen i kvartärgeologi, botanik och zoologi med senare fokus på växtekologi. Doktor i växtbiologi 1987 vid Uppsala universitet med en avhandling om älgens betesmönster och trädens betesresponser. Bergström har arbetat som forskare vid Svenska Jägareförbundets forskningsavdelning 1977–2001 och deltid vid SLU i Umeå under 1990-talet. Sedan 2002 är han anställd som forskare vid Skogforsk, Uppsala. Docent från och med 1997 och adjungerad professor 1999–2008 vid SLU i Umeå. Pensionär sedan hösten 2012. Forskningen har varit fokuserad på stora växtätare och deras påverkan på växter, vegetation och ekosystem. Studierna har främst gjorts i svenska skogar och savanner i Botswana. Med avstamp i släkt- och hembygdsforskning har Bergström på senare tid intresserat sig för viltets och viltförvaltningens historia. [email protected] bergström, roger, was born in 1946 in the parish of Norrala in the province of Hälsingland. He graduated in quaternary geology, botany and geology, subsequently specialising in plant biology. He obtained a Ph.D. in plant biology at Uppsala University in 1987 with a dissertation on moose browsing patterns and tree responses to browsing. He has worked as a researcher at the ���������������� Swedish Association for Hunting and Wildlife Management (1977–2001), and part-time at SLU in Umeå in the 1990s. Since 2002 he has been a researcher at Skogforsk in Uppsala. He was made a dovid fjällets fot 357 författarpresentationer cent in 1997, and was an adjunct professor at SLU in Umeå (1999–2008). Retired since fall 2012. His principal research interest is large herbivores and their impact on plants, vegetation, and ecosystems. His studies have been conducted mainly in Swedish forests and the Botswana savannah. Drawing on developments in genealogy and local history, he has recently been working on the history of Swedish wildlife and wildlife management. [email protected] Åke Bruce bruce, åke, född och uppvuxen i Göteborg 1941. Han studerade medicin vid Göteborgs universitet och blev läkare 1968. Med. doktorsgrad 1974 vid Göteborgs universitet på en avhandling om fosfolipider i skelettmuskulatur. Docent i klinisk nutrition samma år och från 1976 först laborator och senare professor vid Statens Livsmedelsverk. Den vetenskapliga inriktningen under senare år har varit nutritionsepidemiologi och nutritionspolitik. Under alla år varit mer eller mindre flitig amatörbotanist och -ornitolog. [email protected] bruce, åke, was born in Gothenburg (Göteborg) in 1941 and grew up there. He studied medicine at Gothenburg University, qualifying as a physician in 1968. He gained his M.D. at Gothenburg University in 1974 with a dissertation on phospholipids of the skeletal muscle. He became a docent, clinical nutrition, that same year and, in 1976 assistant professor, and subsequently full professor (applied nutrition) at the Swedish National Food Administration. [email protected] Kjell Danell danell, kjell, född 1946 i Luleå med uppväxt i Kalix i Norrbotten. Han tog en examen i botanik, kemi, miljövård och zoologi. Doktor i ekologisk zoologi vid Umeå universitet 1978 på en avhandling om spridning och effekter av 358 vid fjällets fot en invaderande djurart (bisam). Anställningar som forskare vid Umeå universitet och SLU i Umeå samt som biträdande huvudsekreterare vid Statens råd för skogs- och jordbruksforskning (SJFR). Professor i viltekologi vid SLU i Umeå sedan 1988. Danell är intresserad av interaktioner mellan växter och växtätare, populationsekologi och naturresursförvaltning och på senare tid alltmer intresserad av historiska tillbakablickar inom dessa områden. Han har bedrivit fältarbete i boreala skogar samt på den arktiska tundran och afrikanska savannen. [email protected]; [email protected] danell, kjell, was born in 1946 in Luleå and grew up in Kalix in the province of Norrbotten. He graduated in botany, chemistry, environment conservation and zoology. He obtained a Ph.D. in ecological zoology at Umeå University in 1978 with a dissertation on the spread and impact of an invasive animal species (muskrat). He has been a researcher at Umeå University and at SLU in Umeå, and deputy principal secretary of the Swedish Council for Forestry and Agricultural Research (SJFR). He has been professor of wildlife ecology at SLU in Umeå since 1988. His research interests include the interaction between plants and herbivores, population ecology, and the management of natural resources, while in recent years he has worked increasingly on the historiography of these fields. He has conducted field-work in boreal forests, and in the Arctic tundra and African savannah. [email protected]; [email protected] Nils Edling edling, nils, född 1961 i Stockholm där han också växte upp. Historiker. Fil.dr i historia 1996 på en avhandling om egnahemsfrågan i svensk politik omkring sekelskiftet 1900. Sedan disputationen forskare och lärare vid Hi storiska institutionen, Stockholms universitet, med avbrott för längre gästforskaruppehåll i London och Köpenhamn. Han antogs som docent i historia 2006, blev ord. universitets- författarpresentationer lektor 2009 och var prefekt för en institution inom lärarutbildningen vid universitetet 2007–11. Nils Edling har huvudsakligen forskat om socialpolitik och välfärd under 1800och 1900-talen, bland annat om arbetslöshet i Danmark, Norge och Sverige 1850–1920, men i publikationslistan finns även två böcker om Kungl. Skogs- och Lantbruksakademien. Den första av dem, För modernäringens moderniser ing från 2003, undersöker i två studier akademiens tillkomst och historia fram till 1820, och den andra, den omfångsrika De areella näringarnas välgörare från 2010, handlar om akademiens alla förvaltade stiftelser och personerna och institutionerna bakom donationerna. [email protected] edling, nils, was born in 1961 in Stockholm, where he also grew up. He obtained his Ph.D. in history in 1996, with a dissertation on the rural social question, homestead politics and small-scale farming in Sweden in and around 1900. Since the 1990s, Edling has been lecturer and researcher in the Department of History, Stockholm University, and during this time has spent extended periods as visiting research fellow in London (1997–98) and Copenhagen (2001–02). He was appointed Docent in 2006 and senior lecturer in History in 2009, and was head of a teacher education department at the university between 2007 and 2011. Edling’s main research interests are the history of social policies and welfare in the 19th and 20th centuries, such as the genesis of unemployment in Denmark, Norway and Sweden 1850–1920, but his publication list also includes two books on the Royal Academy of Agriculture of Forestry. The first one, Modernizing the Primary Industry, published in 2003, studies the foundation and early years of the Academy up to 1820, and the second, The Benefactors of the Green Industries, published in 2010, is a major study of the many foundations administered by the Academy and of the persons and organisations who endowed them. [email protected] Margareta Ihse ihse, margareta, född 1943 i Hässleholm, fil. mag. 1966 vid Lunds universitet i kemi, botanik, zoologi. Doktor i naturgeografi 1979 vid Stockholms universitet på en avhandling om flygbildstolkning av vegetation – metodstudier för översiktlig kartering. Därefter huvudsakligen verksam vid Stockholms universitet, men har föreläst vid flertalet svenska universitet. Docent 1986 i fjärranalys med naturvårdsinriktning på Naturvårdsverkets speciella forskartjänst, 1992 universitetslektor i miljövård och 1997 professor i ekologisk geografi. Vice preses vid KSLA 2000–03. Forskningen har varit inriktad på naturvårds- och miljöfrågor, dels med metodik för IR, dels på förändringar i landskapet, speciellt kulturlandskapet, och deras betydelse för biodiversitet. [email protected] ihse, margareta, born 1943 in Hässleholm, BSc 1966 at Lund University (chemistry, botany, zoology), PhD in 1979 in Physical Geography at Stockholm University, on a thesis of air photo interpretation of vegetation – methodological studies for medium scale mapping. She has worked mainly at Stockholm University, becoming, in 1986, docent in remote sensing for nature conservation (a post endowed by the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency, SEPA), and subsequently senior lecturer in environmental sciences (1992) and professor of ecological geography (1997). Between 2000 and 2003 she was KSLA Vice President. The focus of her research is on nature conservation and environmental questions, with methods for inventory and monitoring from CIR aerial photos, and landscape ecological change studies of biotopes in the cultural landscape and the effects of biodiversity. [email protected] Kjell Lundquist lundquist, kjell, 1955–2011, föddes och bodde i Lund, Skåne. Han tog examen i agronomi och landskapsarkitektur. Agronomie vid fjällets fot 359 författarpresentationer doktor i landskapsarkitektur vid SLU, Alnarp, på en avhandling om krolliljans introduktion och tidiga historia spridning i Sverige från 1700-talet. Anställdes som universitetsadjunkt i Landskapsarkitektur 1995 vid SLU, Alnarp. Docent vid samma institution 2010. Ansvarade för Enaforsholmskursen ett tjugotal år fram till 2010 och var bland många hedersuppdrag ledamot i Kungl. Skogs- och Lantbruksakademin (innefattande Styrelseledamot i AB Enaforsholm; Ledamot i Nämnden för de Areella Näringarnas Historia). lundquist, kjell (1955–2011), was born and lived in Lund, Skåne. He graduated in agronomy and landscape architecture. He gained his Ph.D. in agricultural science at SLU, Alnarp, with a dissertation on the introduction and early history of the Turk’s-cap lily in 18th century Sweden. He joined the staff of SLU, Alnarp, in 1995 as an assistant professor of landscape architecture in 1995, becoming a docent in the same department in 2010. For twenty or more years, until 2010, he took charge of the Enaforsholm course, and among many other honorary appointments was a member of the Royal Academy of Agriculture and Forestry (KSLA), in which capacity he was also a director of AB Enaforsholm and a member of the Standing Committee of the Unit for Forest and Agricultural History har sedan dess arbetat med miljöövervakning och vattenmiljöfrågor. Under senare år alltmer intresserad av fiskbiologi och fiske i ett historiskt perspektiv, vilket bland annat lett till utgivningen av en bok om vattnens historia i Vålådalenområdet. [email protected] näslund, ingemar, was born in Åsele in 1957 and grew up in Vilhelmina, southern Lapland. After first taking a biology degree, he gained his Ph.D. in fish biology at SLU (the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences), Umeå, 1991, with a dissertation on Partial migration and the development of seasonal habitat shifts in brown trout and char. Between 1981 and 1999 he did research work at Umeå University and SLU, and also at Kälarne, Jämtland, the research station operated by the then National Board of Fisheries. The focus of his research has been on fish biology in flowing water and on aquaculture. He has been a docent at SLU since 2001. In 1999 Näslund joined the staff of the Jämtland County Administrative Board, and since then has worked with environmental monitoring and water environment issues. His interest in recent years has increasingly turned to fish biology and fisheries in a historical perspective, resulting among other things in the publication of a book on the history of the waters of the Vålådalen region. [email protected] Ingemar Näslund näslund, ingemar, född 1957 i Åsele och uppväxt i Vilhelmina i södra Lappland. Han tog examen på Biologlinjen. Doktor i fiskbiologi vid SLU i Umeå 1991 med en avhandling om näringsvandring hos öring och röding i fjällvatten. 1981–99 arbetade han som forskare vid Umeå universitet och SLU, samt vid Fiskeriverkets försöksstation i Kälarne, Jämtland. Forskningen har varit inriktad på fiskbiologi i strömmande vatten samt vattenbruk. Docent vid SLU i Umeå sedan 2001. Näslund anställdes 1999 vid Länsstyrelsen i Jämtlands län och 360 vid fjällets fot Daniel Rutgersson rutgersson, daniel, född 1981 på Tjörn. Bebyggelseantikvarie. Master i kulturvård 2009 på en uppsats kring urbanmorfologi som metod för identifiering av kulturhistoriska karaktärsdrag i stadslandskap. Under 2010 arbetade han inom den privata sektorn och upprättade planeringsunderlag för kommuner över hela Sverige. Sedan början av 2011 är han anställd vid Tjörns kommun som planarkitekt. [email protected] författarpresentationer rutgersson, daniel, was born in 1981 on the island of Tjörn. A specialist in building reconstruction and sustainable development, he gained his Master’s in conservation (built environment) with an essay on urban morphology as a method for identifying heritage characteristics of the urban landscape. In 2010 he was active in the private sector, drawing up planning documentation for local authorities all over Sweden. At the beginning of 2011 he became a planning architect with the Municipality of Tjörn. [email protected] Maja Rytorp rytorp, maja, född 1982 i Göteborg. Hon tog sin landskapsarkitektexamen 2010 på Sveriges lantbruksuniversitet i Alnarp. Titeln på examensarbetet var ”Om att skapa en databas över Enaforsholms fjällträdgårds 60-åriga växtförsök”. Parallellt med studierna var Maja Rytorp under 2007 anställd som kursledare i trädgårdsdesign vid Medborgarskolan i Malmö. 2006–08 var hon en av två trädgårdsmästare vid Enaforsholms fjällträdgård. Sedan 2008 har hon varit anställd på Stad & Landskap (Malmö kommun) som yrkesverksam landskapsarkitekt. I sin strävan att fördjupa sig i sitt yrke har Maja Rytorp genom stipendier och resor kunnat utforska sitt yrke på nya marker, här kan nämnas tre veckors studier vid Universitet i Kyoto 2009. Nästa projekt utanför arbetet kommer att bli till hösten 2012 för att studera morisk arkitektur och trädgårdshistoria i Sydspanien och Marocko. [email protected] rytorp, maja, was born in Gothenburg in 1982 and graduated as a landscape architect in 2010 at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences, Alnarp. Her degree thesis was entitled (in Swedish) “Creating a database of 60 years’ plant experimentation at the Enaforsholm Mountain Garden”. Parallel to her studies, she was engaged in 2007 as garden design course moderator by the Citizen School (Medborgarskolan) adult education association in Malmö. Between 2006 and 2008 Maja Rytorp was one of two master gardeners at the Enaforsholm Mountain Garden. She has been a practising landscape architect with Stad & Landskap (Municipality of Malmö) since 2008. Bursaries and travel have enabled her, as part of her professional advancement, to explore her profession in “fresh fields and pastures new”, e.g. by studying at the University of Kyoto for three weeks in 2009. Her next off-work project, in the autumn of 2012, will be a study of Moresque architecture and horticultural history in southern Spain and Marocco. [email protected] Maria Sandström sandström, maria, född 1969 i Skellefteå. Hortonom vid SLU Alnarp och fil.kand. i företagsekonomi från Umeå Universitet. 1999– 2003 lärare på Grans Naturbruksskola i Öjebyn. Egen företagare inom trädgårdsbranschen från 2003. Arbetar med marknadsföring och försäljning i ett familjeföretag sedan 2007. Arbetade i Enaforsholms fjällträdgård 1997–99 och har sedan 2011 tagit över ansvaret för densamma. Sandström är svampkonsulent och ofta anlitad som kursledare på höstarna. [email protected] sandström, maria, was born in 1969 in Skellefteå. MSc. in horticulture at SLU, Alnarp and BSc. in social science with a major in business administration at Umeå University. Between 1999 and 2003 she taught at Gran Agricultural College, Öjebyn. She has been self-employed in horticulture since 2003, but since 2007 has been mainly concerned with marketing and sales in a family-run business. She worked in the Enaforsholm experimental garden as a student between 1997and 1999, becoming its manager in 2011. Sandström is a mushroom consultant at Umeå University and is often engaged as a course leader in the autumn. [email protected] vid fjällets fot 361 författarpresentationer Madelene Seberbrink seberbrink, madelene, född 1983 i Göteborg. Bebyggelseantikvarie. Master i kulturvård 2009 med en uppsats som behandlade postindustriella transformeringsprocesser i Göteborg utifrån ett kulturhistoriskt perspektiv. Efter examen fortsatte Madelene att studera vid Chalmers tekniska högskola och är sedan början av 2011 anställd vid Göteborgs stadsbyggnadskontor som antikvarie och utredare. [email protected] seberbrink, madelene, was born in (Göteborg) Gothenburg in 1983. A specialist in building reconstruction and sustainable development, she gained her Master’s in conservation (built environment) with an essay addressing post-industrial transformation processes in Gothenburg in the light of cultural history. After graduating, Madelene continued her studies at the Chalmers University of Technology, and since 2011 has been a conservator and investigator at the Gothenburg City Planning Office. [email protected] 362 vid fjällets fot summary At the Mountain’s Foot Benefactor A.W. Bergsten and his Enaforsholm in West Jämtland – from hunting lodge to mountain farm hans antonson the whole of this book is devoted, in various ways, to a single man, Alexander Wilhelm Bergsten (*19th November 1855, †2nd August 1937). He was a well-to-do Swedish wholesale merchant who led a relatively quiet life in Stockholm. Born neither rich nor poor, he was a self-made man. Like so many other wealthy people in and around 1900, he bought himself a hunting lodge in the Swedish mountains, namely, Enaforsholm estate in the province of Jämtland. Alpine tourism in those days was a vital ingredient to this echelon of society, which not only delighted in beautiful scenery but went to stay there for health reasons, so as to benefit from the clean, fresh mountain air. Bergsten, moreover, became one of the greatest benefactors of agrarian science, donating the greater part of his fortune, including his Jämtland hunting property, to the Royal Academy of Agriculture and Forestry in Stockholm. Jämtland lies in the middle of Sweden, on the 63rd parallel; see map, p. 14 and 71. It is characterised by great forests and wetlands, lakes, rivers and bare mountain areas, but with relatively small cultivated acreages. Even so, it is one of Sweden’s northernmost sizeable, contiguous inland farming districts. Enaforsholm, in the parish of Åre and municipality of Duved, is close to the Norwegian border in the west, on the fringe of the bare mountain area. This summary can very well be read conjointly with all the tables and figures, the wording of which has been translated into English. This book is divided into a number of themes, concerning Bergsten himself, i.e. his early years, life and bequest, and the prices which the bequest has resulted in and the prize-winners (pp. 13–67), secondly the Enaforsholms Gård estate in the province of Jämtland, along with many subsidiary themes, such as the historical evolution of the province (pp. 68–150), buildings on the estate (pp. 151–182), the garden (pp. 214–239 and 246–250) and the scientific vegetation experiments (pp. 137, 189–194, 206–214 and 251–260), the restoration of the lands (pp. 261–266), hunting (pp. 280–312), and, finally, fishing (pp. 313–337). This summary is based on the articles mentioned. The book can be termed a work of popular science, based on facts corroborated by source references. These are not included in the present summary, but several of them are to be found in the various captions. The contributors have practical experience and/ or long scientific careers behind them (see the presentation of authors, pp. 357–362). vid fjällets fot 363 hans antonson Early years A.W. Bergsten was born in 1855 in the par- ish of Gråmanstorp and province of Skåne (Scania), on a farm in the village of Åby. His family consisted of his parents and two elder brothers. Surprisingly little is known about his childhood and adolescence. During his early years the family moved to various places where his stepfather worked, such as the Rössjöholm estate, Getinge, Ankarlöv, Västra (West) Sönnarslöv and Kvidinge. Bergsten entered Högre Elementarläroverket (grammar school), Helsingborg, in 1865. This in itself testifies to his mother and stepfather investing in a future for him and his brothers. At the age of 16 he moved to Höganäs and became a trainee apothecary. He took his basic diploma in 1875 in Helsingborg, having moved there in the meantime, and was now halfway to becoming a fully qualified pharmacist. Two years after taking this diploma he curtailed his pharmacy training and moved to Stockholm, the capital of Sweden. Stockholm life and business enterprise Bergsten was to have a long succession of addresses in Stockholm too, ranging from modest central hotels and boarding houses to his luxurious villa near Prince Eugen’s Waldemars udde, on Royal Djurgården. Every change of address indicates a step up the ladder and growing prosperity. Stockholm at this time was growing exponentially as a result of heavy in-migration and a business bonanza. Even so, in about 1880 it was still small by European standards, with just under 170,000 people living in the city centre and 224,000 altogether in Greater Stockholm. It was in Stockholm that Bergsten embarked on his business career, as a commercial traveller for Firma Lundgren & Nachmanson, selling white goods, i.e. fabrics of various kinds, sheets, towels and underwear. After his first year he stayed on as 364 vid fjällets fot a shop assistant, and in 1882 he entered the accounts department. In the autumn of 1883 Bergsten obtained official permission to start the firm of Bergsten & Ernst in partnership with a German, Emil Ernst. The latter had worked for the wholesale firm of M. Lublin as a commercial agent and book-keeper. His specialised knowledge came in useful when he travelled on business to Germany, one of Sweden’s principal trading partners. The new firm dealt in white goods, mainly underwear and children’s wear, and in 1885 it had three employees. We know that Bergsten visited Germany, Austria and Switzerland between 1888 and 1889 for language studies. The two partners stayed together for 11 years, until 1893, when Bergsten bought Ernst out of the business. It is uncertain why this happened, but there does not appear to have been any split between them, because they remained friends. Ernst had started a family and moved to Södertälje. After the takeover, the firm expanded quickly, with production facilities of its own, and by 1903 its personnel strength, comprising seamstresses, clerks and errand boys, had risen to 43, reaching 56 in 1908. In 1893 Bergsten left Stureplan, in the centre of town, for the seclusion of Djurgården, where he rented one of the main buildings of the Waldemarsudde estate. Waldemarsudde was eventually purchased by Eugen Bernadotte, the artist prince, who evicted all the summer tenants but allowed Bergsten to stay on, though in a different building. Bergsten was permitted to alter an old building, today known as Kvarngården (“Mill Farm”), between 1900 and 1901. A book about the Prince has recently been published in English.1 Bergsten had domestic servants, including a coachman, a cook and a housekeeper. The housekeeper, Maria Lindström (1871–1940), came to play a very important part in Bergsten’s life. The exact nature of the relationship that developed between them is not revealed by the sources, but they were clearly very close. They never married but were engaged at one point. Miss summary Lindström became Bergsten’s secretary in the 1890s, after working as a trainee in the business. Despite being wealthy and living next door to a prince, Bergsten does not appear to have rubbed shoulders with high society, because if he had, it would have been mentioned in the papers. But he was, of course, influenced by their lifestyle. Like so many other moneyed persons, he travelled to the mountains as an “air tourist”. He had developed ailments affecting his hearing and balance, and in 1905 he went to Storlien, Jämtland, where Dr Ernst Westerlund prescribed, among other things, outdoor life in the fresh mountain air, good food, walks and rest. West Jämtland can be considered one of Sweden’s earliest tourist destinations.2 In addition to this form of curative tourism, wealthy people had started buying hunting lodges in Norway, beginning with the arrival of British bankers, industrialists and army officers in the 1840s for the hunting and fishing. Gradually, as hunting space began to run short and property prices escalated, they looked further east in Jämtland. Swedish noblemen, merchants and timber magnates now also began buying up properties and building hunting lodges.3 This had been made all the easier by the advent of the railway in 1875. One of these wealthy people, the company director Carl Fredrik Liljevalch, established a model farm at Medstugan, not far from Storlien and Enafors, between 1896 and 1897. Bergsten too was attracted by a farm, Enaforsholm, situated at the foot of the mountain, not far from Storlien. Sale negotiations began in 1907. Bergsten retired at the age of 55, probably because he had ”made his pile” but also due to failing health. In 1909 he sold the business to his right-hand man, office manager Fritz Petzold. Enaforsholm under Bergsten Bergsten stayed on the Enaforsholms Gård estate every summer from 1909 till 1935. He gave it a complete makeover of his own devis- ing and ordered new buildings on the grand scale. The Main House acquired an upper storey, and its roof was altered from saddle roof to hipped mansard. Herbret, an outbuilding which had previously served as a shop and storage building, was turned into a dwelling house. He built a boathouse, an ice house, a mangle house, a workshop and cart shed, a hunting lodge and a fishing lodge. A foreman’s house was built in 1910, the old shippon was pulled down and a new one erected in 1912. An additional dwelling house, known as Nystugan (“New Cottage”) or Bläckhornet (“The Inkwell”), was built in 1915. A summer shippon was built in 1918, and so it went on. Several buildings were also put of for the purpose of viewing the landscape. One of them was the Viewing Pavilion (Gazebo), occupying an eminence on the other side of Lillån. Bergsten replaced this with a viewing tower, and the pavilion was moved to the cliff edge by the Enan river falls. Höganloft, a refreshment pavilion built of unplaned timber, was another of these buildings. Imbibing the grandeur of Nature was an important concern of this social class at the turn of the century. Bergsten saw to it that the estate remained a working farm, with pigs, sheep, cows and horses. Of course, Bergsten did not do the farming himself, though, having been born on a farm, he doubtless had all the requisite knowledge. The farm was the foreman’s responsibility. Bergsten devoted himself to his other interests, especially hunting and fishing but also photography and painting. He had one of the buildings on the estate, the old summer cottage which the previous farm occupants would move out to for the summer season, converted into a studio. Several paintings by him are still to be seen in the main building. Photographs of Enaforsholm are unusually numerous, and they show life and tasks about the farm, ranging from potato gathering and haymaking to hunting and fishing. Miss Lindström, ever by his side, was frequently photographed, as were his dogs. Bergvid fjällets fot 365 hans antonson sten was a good amateur photographer, and his pictures are of high quality. The Academy plans to publish them in book form. Bergsten had a number of friends, though not many, who would come to stay for hunting and fishing, and he would photograph their visits. Hunting and fishing Aside from art and photography, hunting and fishing appear to have been Bergsten’s great passion in life, and he had several hunting dogs, e.g. Irish and English setters, for fowling, and the Springer spaniel and beagle, which were mainly for foxhunting and hare chasing. But in Jämtland generally and West Jämtland especially, these activities have a long history, Quite simply, they were the livelihood of people living in historical times. There are Stone Age and Bronze Age rock carvings of European moose and other game, e.g. at Håltbergsudden, Landverk by Ånnsjön lake in the parish of Åre. Trapping pits are another kind of prehistoric site bearing witness to the importance of hunting. Sometimes these are lined up, forming great systems. The idea was for the animal to fall into the pit and remain there, often still alive, until the hunter came back to inspect the pit a few days later. There is a trapping pit on the other side of the Enan river from Enaforsholm. These trapping pits have been archaeologically dated to between the Neolithic (Stone Age) and the 16th century, but we know from written sources that they were still being used in the 19th century. There were many different kinds of hunting, though, e.g. with snares, spears, gins and guns. The moose was the main quarry and is aptly displayed in the Jämtland provincial coat of arms. The moose was hunted for meat, antlers and hide. The hide was the main export commodity in medieval times, sought after by royal houses all over Europe, and there was extensive trading in hides in Jämtland during the medieval and early modern periods. No doubt this was an 366 vid fjällets fot important source of income for farmers. But, as many 18th and 19th century records make clear, the supply of game was running out. The beaver and wild reindeer disappeared from Jämtland towards the end of the 19th century, and the wolf occurred only sporadically until the 1930s. The beaver was declared a wholly protected species in 1870, the wild reindeer only in 1915, but both species vanished from the Jämtland fauna. The European moose numbers were small throughout the 19th century, and from the beginning of the 19th century to 1920s the species was totally protected during several periods, though poaching was widespread. The Jämtland County Association for Hunting and Wildlife Management was formed in 1902, though its activities did not pick up speed till the 1920s and 30s. One of its objectives was to combat illegal hunting and to appoint game management advisers to help re-establish game stocks. Several game species began to recover or return during Bergsten’s time. The improvement is mirrored by the statistics. Hunting today is a major social activity among the people of Jämtland, with no less than 40 per cent households represented. Enaforsholm Fjällgård now leases land on Storsnasen for wildfowl, small game and moose. Hunting activities are organised there for guests between August and October. Fishing too has a long history, with traces discovered at settlement sites dating from the Stone Age onwards. The wealthy hunting tourists visiting West Jämtland were also keen fishermen. There are many photographs of Bergsten fishing in the falls, sometimes using a road made of greenheart (a South American wood) with a reel. This was presumably used for an early form of fly-fishing which was more like angling, with a sinker and a worm on a hook. He also fished in quieter waters from a boat, and his servants fished with nets. The main fish caught in the Enan was brown trout, both freshwater and sea trout. The latter moves up from Ånnsjön lake in late sum- summary mer and autumn to its spawning grounds and can pass the falls at Enaforsholm, but has difficulty negotiating the Storforsen falls further upstream. The uncommon river-breeding char was also caught, but is today more of a rarity. In the Ånnsjö area it often grows large, attaining weights of nearly 2 kg. Fishing of brown trout and char is now prohibited from 1st September onwards, enabling them to breed undisturbed. The Enan river flows into Ånnsjön lake, the surroundings of which have an interesting history bearing striking resemblances to that of hunting. Admiral Sir Houston Stewart became, in the 1890s, the first Englishman to come here. He leased the fishing on the hamlets of Granön and Landverk. But the brothers Admiral Edward and Squire William Kennedy really stand apart. They came to Klocka hamlet towards the end of the 1890s and Edward acquired, first Granön in 1905 and then, in 1907, one-sixth of the Landverk fishing rights and the Ånnsjö fishing rights, except that he was only able to lease the Crown share. The villagers of Vallan, however, considered themselves entitled to fish on the Admiral’s land. This generated a protracted dispute, reported on by the newspaper Östersundsposten in 1909. The Admiral pursued the matter through the courts and the dispute was later taken over by his son-in-law, G.W. Stopford. A final ruling, establishing that the Vallan farmers had no fishing rights, only came in 1936. The last year of the English at Ånnsjön came in 1955, when Stopford was 85. The property was put up for sale in 1958 and acquired by Jämtlands Läns Sportfiskeklubb (the Jämtland County Amateur Fishing Club). Canadian char were illegally planted in the lake and first caught in 1974. This had the effect of reducing the native char population, at the same time as the Canadian char gained weight, being typical predators. By 1992 these problems had grown so serious that a cull of char fry had to be started. The problems have diminished, but fishing the Canadian char to extinction is simply not possible. Large parts of Ånnsjön lake are now open for licensed amateur fishing. Fishing with split-shot rigs, as well as fly-fishing and spin casting, is commonly practised. So too is jig fishing in springtime, especially by refrozen fissures in the ice. Guests at Enaforsholm can fish from the E14 road bridge out towards Ånnsjön, Enaforsholm Fjällgård having purchased a fishing licence for this purpose. Enaforsholm before Bergsten Enaforsholm, however, had a long history before Bergsten’s time. The Ånnsjön area was already inhabited in the Stone Age, and several archaeological remains in the form of rock carvings and settlement sites recall the earliest human presence here. A well-preserved Viking sword has also been found on the mountain, without ever having been buried. Sami have lived and worked here for ages, concurrently with Vikings and later colonists. Bergsten photographed several Sami camps in the Enafors area and actually had a Sami hut erected on his property. Traces of it were still clearly visible in the 1960s. But perhaps one of the most conspicuous historic features hereabouts is the traces of Charles XII’s Norwegian campaign of 1719, or rather, traces of the soldiers, known as Armfelt’s Carolinians, who froze to death on the homeward march over the mountains on New Year’s Day. Several monuments commemorate the tragedy. In Handöl in 1889, a soapstone slab was found, inscribed “600 persons were buried here on 20th January 1719”, and a large mass grave was discovered in a field in 1936. Probably this archaeological find also came to Bergsten’s knowledge. New settlements are a special category of settlement in the 18th and 19th centuries, meaning in Jämtland that people were at liberty to start a farm on Crown land and to enjoy very long-lasting tax exemption for doing so. There are several new settlements north of Ånnsjön, e.g. Klocka. The first recorded mention of land use at vid fjällets fot 367 hans antonson Postcard of Enaforsholm and Snasahögarna when the then owners, Enafors AB (Ltd), demolished the sawmill in 1907. The photo is taken from the Gazebo and the remains of the sawmill are visible in the bottom right-hand corner. The main building, dating from 1877, still had a saddle roof. The forward part of the island separating the two branches of the Lillån river has neither trees nor bushes, and several hay racks have been erected in the fields behind. photo: no. 1710, Axel Lindahls fotografiaffär, Stockholm. KSLA archives. Vykort över Enaforsholm och Snasahögarna när dåvarande ägarna Enafors aktiebolag rev sågverket 1907. Fotografiet är taget från utsiktspaviljongen och resterna av sågen syns i bildens nedre högra hörn. Stora huset från 1877 hade fortfarande ett sadeltak. Den främre delen av ön som delar av Lillåns båda flöden saknar träd och buskar och på åkrarna bakom byggnaden står flera hässjestörar uppsatta. foto: nr 1710, Axel Lindahls fotografiaffär, Stockholm. KSLA:s arkiv. Enarforsholm is a map dating from 1828–29, showing that parts of the land on Holmen were used as pasture for the then summertime farm (shieling) of Brubbvallen, today the community connected with Enafors railway station. In 1871 the felling rights in the Holmen woods were acquired by Jens Stensaas, a Norwegian, and Gunnar Eriksson. A waterpowered sawmill was commissioned on Holmen, by the Lillån falls, in 1877, and this is the first time the name of Enaforsholm is mentioned, namely in “Enaforsholm Sawmill”. There is a detailed Statutory Redistribution map of the area, drawn in 1885–86. This shows 368 vid fjällets fot all types of land, such as arable, pasture, forest and meadowland, but it also shows buildings, a lawn in front of the main building and a kitchen garden behind. People travelling between Duved in Sweden and Tydalen in Norway during summertime probably crossed by way of Enaforsholm, continuing across the Enan river on a raft. In addition to running a sawmill, Stensaas also cashed in on tourism, which the coming of the railway had turned into a growth industry. In addition to buying groceries from Stensaas’s general store, the tourists could both sleep and have meals at Enaforsholm. Stensaas died in 1898 and a summary consortium of 7 persons took over Enafors holm, forming Enafors AB (Ltd) in 1900. The new limited company never used the sawmill again, but the boarding house business was carried on by a manager called Lönnborg. As an additional lure for tourists, the place was dubbed the Enaforsholmen Sanatorium. Fresh-air tourism, then, was an important money-spinner. But the sanatorium cannot have prospered sufficiently, because in the summer of 1907 we find a Miss Backman renting out rooms to tourists, but without board. The will and the bequest Bergsten died, in his Djurgården home, in 1937. The newspaper obituaries were brief, which gives some idea of his aversion to publicity. In his will, drawn up in 1922, he left a considerable fortune, large portions of which, Enaforsholm included, were donated to the Royal Swedish Academy of Agriculture, as KSLA was then known. The reason for the bequest is not known, and Miss Lindström was unable, subsequently, to account for it. But, as in the case of his hunting estate, it is not inconceivable that he emulated other benefactors and philanthropists from the same social stratum, one in which benefactions were common practice. In 1937 the Academy found itself the steward of a total of SEK 803,400. The will stipulates that the yield on this capital shall “in its entirety be devoted to the best interests of agriculture by arousing, as the Academy sees fit, either in the form of travelling scholarships or as rewards or as some other form of support, inclination for and interest in agriculture on the part of industrious Swedish citizens, whether younger or older, or economic associations of citizens who have devoted their life’s work to agriculture or a kindred occupation.” In 2000 the bequest was registered as a foundation, now administered by the Academy. One of the finest distinctions awarded by the Academy is the A.W. Bergsten Prize, awarded 74 times before 2012. But re- wards are also presented to smallholders and agricultural students, two categories which Bergsten had very much at heart. Enaforsholm after Bergsten After Bergsten’s death, the tenure of Enafors holm passed to Miss Lindström. She had the so-called Academy Wing rebuilt in accordance with Bergsten’s wishes. Then the Second World War supervened and the place became a military camp, as could long be seen from the presence of barrack-room beds. The Academy’s real involvement began with Professor Gunnar Torstensson (Principal of the Academy of Agriculture) taking students with him to Enaforsholm 1st September 1949. Another very devoted person was Sven Gréen, Principal of the Experimental Field (the site of Stockholm University), entered the scene in 1948. Summer courses of mountain ecology and concerning nature and nurture in the mountain region have been going on ever since at Enaforsholm, for example with Kjell Lundquist as moderator for 20-odd years until 2010. Academy members have been able to stay at Enaforsholm in connection with various research experiments, but also for purely recreational purposes. In addition, the estate has been used for tourism, providing both board and lodging. The location, just a stone’s throw from Enafors railway station, is not exactly a drawback communication-wise. So far, under the Academy’s supervision, In 2008-09 an extension as built at the rear of the building, in the form of a veranda linked with the dining room, at the same time as individual toilets were installed in nearly all rooms, thus making the place more comfortable and increasing the dining room seating capacity, e.g. for the benefit of wedding parties, conference and course participants. Certain longvanished architectural qualities were partly resuscitated. As from July 2007, the farm and the general management have been in the hands of Bo vid fjällets fot 369 hans antonson Berglund and Ingalill Samuelsson. The Enaforsholms Fjällgård business is now run as a limited company (AB Enaforsholm, owned by the A.W. Bergsten Foundation), registered by the Academy on 31st July that year, its stated purpose being, “in the spirit of our benefactor A.W. Bergsten, to develop, market and conduct outdoor, cultural and agriculturally related activities and receive guest at Fjällgården Enaforsholm, as well as conducting activities compatible therewith.” Enaforsholm has 50 beds. The farm is based on cattle raising. For some months in the summer season it has about 30 sheep and lambs, plus a number of beef cattle, grazing the courtyard and the meadows north of the Enan river, over against the E14 highway. Research and experimentation at Enaforsholm Miss Lindström was one of two executors of Bergsten’s will. In a letter to the Academy, she wrote that the benefactor had wanted efforts to be made in future “to start a model farm or so-called experimental establishment on the property in an attempt to ascertain [partly by means of ] experimental growing what can be suitable for cultivation in mountain areas”. Four kinds of research study/experimentation have been conducted at Enaforsholm since the 1950s, namely forest, horticultural, mountain vegetation and ley-plant studies. The first alien conifers were planted on the island in 1956, the last in 1959. The new conifers were from Russia, North America and Japan. This was initially undertaken under the aegis of what is now the Swedish Forest Tree Breeding Association. The species were planted in groups of between 18 and 44 in an arboretum where mountain spruce trees were growing already. New experiments were laid out between 1961 and 1971 in Mossbäckshöjden hill, on the other side of the E14 highway, by the Royal College of Forestry Department of Reforestation, to study the survival capacity and 370 vid fjällets fot development of the different species. These experiments were recurrently studied, e.g. in 1982, 1990 and 1991, but most of the pine trees were already dead by 1966, despite coming from places at the same altitude above sea level. It was also observed that spruce was adversely affected by trees and that several trees died as a result of damage inflicted by voles. The Observation Garden/Experimental Garden was started by Sven Gréen in 1948, but was based on the herb or spice garden maintained by both Stensaas and Bergsten. The intention was for this experimental garden to be used for teaching purposes at the then Royal Swedish Academy of Agriculture and for the development of different species to be recorded. Any number of perennials were planted, such as fruit bushes, fruit trees, ornamental shrubs, strawberries and vegetables. The next phase was opened in 1965 by Börje Lövkvist, whose attention at this time focused on the effects of night frost. The garden was tended mainly by horticulture and landscape architecture students. During this period Lövkvist developed the hybrid roseroot, a cross between roseroot or Aaron’s rod (Rhodiola rosea (Sedum rosea) and the roseroot R. kirilowii (S. kirilowii). Between 1991 and 2005 the horticultural experiments were headed by Kjell Lundquist, the aim being to develop Sweden’s most variegated garden of strains for Swedish Plant Zone 8, with a certain amount of continuing experimentation. After a period of some neglect, the garden was put in order. Narcissus, lilies, tulips, pearly hyacinth, crocuses, squills and irises were planted for observation and evaluation. The potato-growing experiments were later resumed, and the garden partly re-designed with a central axis. As from 2011, work was headed by Maria Sandström and the garden renamed Enaforsholms Fjällträdgård (the Enaforsholm Mountain Garden). A distinctive feature hitherto has been the introduction of new species, such as rhubarb, Manchurian cherry, Microbiota decussata and Japanese spurge. Work in the summary garden could be observed on the web through a picture gallery and a blog. Mountain vegetation experiments began in 1974 and comprise a “vegetation profile” which in turn consists of two “botanical-phenological lines”, laid out and documented from Enafors holm northwards to Högåsen and southwards to Storsnasen. Along these lines, a total of 25 observation squares, each measuring 10 x 10 metres, were laid out to cover the plant communities, climatic conditions and exposures of the profile. These were documented in detail, in both text and sketches. The purpose of the experiment was to try and clarify the interaction between climate, topography and bedrock and to describe species and plant communities. The squares were visited, with varying degrees of regularity and completeness, up until 1986, for the registration of various phonological data. A new follow-up in 2011 showed, on a general plane, that the structure and physiognomy of the vegetation had changed very little if at all, but in detail the results different from one square to another. Some bushes, for example, had grown, the meadow species had diminished in number and the squares had become more oligospecific. The ley cultivation experiments on arable land proceeded between 1985 and 1988 and between 1990 and 1993, their purpose being to test the winter survival capacity of Svalöf Weibull AB cultivars in the very rigorous winter conditions of Enaforsholm. The test material included red clover, white clover, Timothy grass, common bent, Hungarian brome, cock’s foot and smooth meadow grass, but also commercially available fodder plant mixtures. It was found that only Timothy grass and, possibly, meadow fescue were hardy enough to withstand the severe climate conditions prevailing in this region. Enaforsholm and the future The history of Enaforsholm, both during Bergsten’s time and before and after, is one of change as regards the Mountain Garden, settlement and the appearance and use of the landscape. The buildings are continuously renovated and have in certain cases been enlarged. The garden has gradually changed over a long period of time, and a different design is planned for it in future. The arable fields and pastures near the farm have also changed in terms of appearance and function. As has already been made clear, Enaforsholm now belongs to a foundation managed by the Academy. This will not change. As a result of a substantial upgrade of the main building in 2008–09 and greater emphasis on marketing in both Sweden and Norway, visitor figures are steadily rising and the financial position improving. Various offers and group activities are being developed as time goes on, some of them successful, others one-off attempts. One thing we can be sure of is that the passage of time means changes in various respects. This has always been the case and always will be. We can only hope that people of the future will appreciate the changes made in their own time. Visit Enaforsholm The above presentation of the place, its history, the landscape, the settlement, the Mountain Garden, research and experimentation, hunting and fishing should be sufficient reason in itself for visiting Enaforsholm. This part of Jämtland was the cradle of Sweden’s tourist industry. Tourism remains a big sector in both summer and winter. Mountain trekking between the Swedish Tourist Association’s mountain stations is a very popular activity. Fishing also attracts large numbers of tourists, as do mountain biking and cloudberry picking. The magnificence of wild flowers is always to be counted on in summertime. The Swedish-Norwegian mountains alone have countless species, all of them endemic and many of them to be found in the Enafors holm area. In late winter/early spring tourists vid fjällets fot 371 hans antonson are lured by the prospect of ice fishing. Otherwise long-distance skiing is a popular attraction, as well as downhill skiing on the slopes of Storlien, not to mention the World Cup slopes of Åre. Then again, the skiing slopes can also be reached by train or bus. Enafors holms Fjällgård offers modern accommodation in a unique agrarian environment. For those with an appetite for learning, the Academy Wing has a non-fiction library about West Jämtland. For those seeking some other kind of recreation, there is a wood-fired bathing tub, a sauna and cold bathing in the Enan river, just a stone’s throw away. The farm serves good food, much of it of local character and origin. Sheep and cows graze the land. Fish is caught in the river and there is hunting on the slopes of Snasahögarna. Outsiders can join in the autumn hunting, insofar as there are places available. Enaforsholm guests are entitled to fish in the Enan river. The surroundings have a number of sights to see, such as the Carolinian monument at Handöl, in the village of Vallan (near Ånn) and on the hiking trail to Blåhammarkläppen. The stone in Grönan valley is wreathed in legend, with inscriptions on the bare mountain 6 km north of Storlien, beside the road past Skurdalsporten. Handöl has the biggest soapstone quarry in Sweden, and soapstone craft products are popular with tourists. There is also the possibility of making an excursion to Nidaros Cathedral in Norway’s Trondheim. The Brudslöjan (“Bridal Veil”) falls on the Norwegian border and the Tännforsen rapids 372 vid fjällets fot near Duved are other impressive sights, not easily forgotten. The easiest way of getting to Enaforsholm is by train. Enafors and its railway station are only a short walk away. Alternatively, one can fly to Frösön or Trondheim airport. The E14 highway between Sundsvall to the east and Trondheim in the west passes close by Enaforsholm, and there are plenty of parking spaces at the farm. The KSLA website (www. ksla.se/en/) includes contact details, in English, for the Enaforsholm Mountain Farm. Notes 1 Söderlund 2010. 2 Nilsson 2003. 3 Järnfeldt-Carlsson 1998. References Printed works Järnfeldt-Carlsson, Marta, 1988, Landskap, jaktvillor & kurhotell. Arkitektur och turism i Västjämtland 1880–1915 [Landscape, Hunting Villas, Resort Hotels. Architecture and Tourism in Western Jämtland 1880–1915], with an English Summary, Umeå, 238 pp. Nilsson, Per Åke, 2003, Åre tourism: the Åre Valley as a resort during the 19th and 20th centuries, Hammerdal, 54 pp. Söderlund, Göran, 2010, Prince Eugen’s Waldemarsudde: a guide to the museum, Prins Eugens Waldemarsudde, Stockholm, 53 pp.