DRAG RACING SPECIALTIES

Transcription

DRAG RACING SPECIALTIES
PO Box 940891 Plano, Texas USA 75094-0891
Telephone (972) 881-0209
Fax (972) 422-7734
Product Catalog
Number 14
w w w . s l o t c a r . c o m
1 Copyright Drag Racing Specialties All Rights Reserved
Genuine Drag Racing Specialties Record Setting Cee-Can Motors:
We build our motors for racing, not as a starting point for a racing
motor! Our motors have been built by Bob Herrick, not by some assembly line
where quantity, not quality counts. We use the best parts in the industry to
build our motors to our race specifications. First we use the DRS designed
motor can, endbell, hardware, and quad magnets built to our specifications.
The armatures are made to our demanding race specifications. Our armatures
are built to race, not to meet price restrictions imposed by the sanctioning
bodies that govern circuit racing.
We spare no expense in the manufacturing process of DRS
Armatures. Want to see something interesting, weigh the competitions arms,
then weigh ours, and see for yourself. We also chose Class A Brushes, and
Springs to finish off what we think are the finest Drag Racing Motors in the
industry! They also come with shunt wires already installed. The magnets are
epoxyed in place then align-honed with the endbell attached to assure that the
air gap is accurate. We also align hone the brush hardware to make sure a
The New DRS Gen III Motor
stuck brush never costs you a final round win!
When you are ready to win, try Genuine DRS Motors for the winning advantage that our long time customers have had. We
race what we sell, our customers race what we race. Why? We do not have a Racing Team that gets select parts. They get what you
get! You say you do not need a fast motor to run brackets, or index. True, but you need consistency, and that comes from properly
assembled motors, and cars!
(These C-Can Motors do not have the right air-gap for circuit racing, you must align-hone to .528-. 535 for use in circuit racing)
DRS-150 Braided Shunt Wire (3’ Package)
This is same high quality, larger diameter, easy to use shunt wire that we use on our motors.
DRS-300 High RPM .510 Blueprinted C Can Setup W/ Quads
We use the DRS motor can, endbell, hardware, and High RPM Quad Magnets built to our specifications. Ready to build to suit
your combination. Signed by the builder!
DRS-305 High RPM .510 Blueprinted Grp 12 Motor W/ Quads
We use the DRS motor can, endbell, hardware, and High RPM Quad Magnets built to our specifications. Then assembled with
our high quality armature, shunts, Class A brushes, and Springs. Signed by the builder!
DRS-307 High RPM .510 Blueprinted Grp 20 Motor W/ Quads
We use the DRS motor can, endbell, hardware, and quad magnets built to our specifications. Then assembled with our high
quality armature, shunts, Class A brushes, and Springs. Signed by the builder!
DRS-310 Complete Hardware and Endbell Kit
Our kit comes with a high temp plastic endbell, tight fitting "COPPER" hardware, Spring posts that will allow the use of five
coil springs (for Top Gun), and screws.
DRS-311 Low Carbon Motor Can
Carbon is not magnetic. Our cans are made from very low carbon steel to take full advantage of the magnets!
DRS-323 High RPM .510 Blueprinted Grp. 20 Motor with Quads, Shunts, and Bearings.
You asked for them. We listened!
DRS-324 Top Gun Motor w/Shunts & Bearings. .516 Air Gap.
We will now offer Top Gun Motors. We have found the repeatability, durability, and most important, performance required by
DRS to sell this type of motor under our label! Gear at 10 50 to start and MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE SHUTDOWN AREA
PREPARED BEFORE YOU RUN YOUR CAR. One of our test cars has run .600 @ 98+ MPH on a 1/4th-mile track. And yes it was a Trik
Trax timing system. We use the DRS Armature, motor can, endbell, hardware, and High Torque Quad Magnets built to our
specifications. Then assembled with a high quality armature, shunts, Class A brushes, and five coil springs. Signed by the builder!
DRS-325 High RPM Quad C-Can Magnets.
The same magnets that we use in our high quality DRS High RPM C-Can Motors and Set-Ups. They install (in our high quality
motor cans) at approximately .490". This allows you to hone the airgap to your dimensions. We can not insure that they will install at
this airgap in other manufacturer's cans.
DRS-326 Top Gun Armature .510” Diameter. Same Comm. as our Centerfire Arm!
Probably The Best C-Can Open Arm on the Market. Gear at 10-50 minimum to start. Likes big DRS-368 High Torque Magnets.
DRS-361 DRS 12 Arm High Timed @ .510/40*
This armature is made to our demanding race specifications. We spare no expense in the manufacturing process of DRS
Armatures. Want to see something interesting, weigh the competition's arms, then weigh ours, and see for yourself. Around 40 Degrees
of timing.
DRS-362 DRS 20 Arm High Timed @ .510/40*.
of timing.
DRS-363 DRS 12 Arm Low Timed @ .510/32*
of timing.
DRS-364 DRS 20 Arm Low Timed @ .510/32*.
of timing.
DRS-365 High Torque “Blueprinted” C-Can Setup W/Quads For .510” Arm.
We use the DRS motor can, endbell, hardware, and High Torque extended tip quad magnets built to our specifications. Ready
to build to suit your combination. Signed by the builder!
DRS-366 High Torque “Blueprinted” C-Can Motor with .510” Grp 12 Arm W/Quads, Shunts.
We use the DRS motor can, endbell and hardware, and High Torque extended tip quad magnets built to our specifications.
Then assembled with our high quality armature, shunts, Class A brushes, and Springs. Signed by the builder!
DRS-367 High Torque “Blueprinted” C-Can Motor with .510” Grp 20 Arm W/Quads, Shunts.
We use the DRS motor can, endbell, hardware, and High Torque extended tip quad magnets built to our specifications. Then
assembled with our high quality armature, shunts, Class A brushes, and Springs. Signed by the builder!
DRS-368 DRS Extended Tip High Torque Quad Magnets.
The same High Torque extended tip magnets that we use in our high quality DRS High Torque C-Can Motors and Set-Ups for
.510 armatures. They install (in our high quality motor cans) at approximately .480". This allows you to hone the airgap to your
dimensions. We can not insure that they will install at this airgap in other manufacturer's cans.
DRS-369 High Torque “Blueprinted” C-Can Motor with .510” Grp 20 Arm W/Bearings, Quads, Shunts.
We use the DRS motor can, endbell, hardware, and High Torque extended tip quad magnets built to our specifications. Then
assembled with our high quality armature, bearings, shunts, Class A brushes, and Springs. Signed by the builder!
DRS-370 High Torque “Blueprinted” C-Can Setup. For .510” Arm W/Bearings, Quads.
We use the DRS motor can, endbell, hardware, and High Torque extended tip quad magnets built to our specifications. Signed
by the builder!
DRS-371 S16D Drag Racing Arm
This “TAGGED” armature is made to our demanding race specifications. We spare no expense in the manufacturing process of
DRS Armatures. Want to see something interesting, weigh the competition's arms, then weigh ours, and see for yourself.
DRS-372 American Made S16D Magnets
The same Quality magnet material that we use in our DRS Motors and Set-Ups. Single Magnets have been sized to fit 16d
motor cans.
DRS-373 GEN II Low Carbon C-Can
DRS-374 GEN III Low Carbon C-Can
DRS-375 GEN III High Torque “Blueprinted” Grp 12 C-Can Motor W/ Redline Quads, Oilites, Shunts
We use the DRS GEN III Motor can, endbell and hardware, and Redline High Torque extended tip quad magnets built to our
specifications. Then assembled with our high quality armature, shunts, Class A brushes, and Springs. Signed by the builder!
DRS-376 GEN III High Torque “Blueprinted” Grp 20 C-Can Motor W/ Redline Quads, Oilites, Shunts
DRS-377 GEN III High Torque “Blueprinted” Grp 20 C-Can Motor W/ Redline Quads, Bearings, Shunts
DRS-378 GEN III High Torque “Blueprinted” C-Can Set-Up W/ Redline Quads, Oilites
specifications. Signed by the builder!
DRS-379 GEN III High Torque “Blueprinted” C-Can Set-Up W/ Redline Quads, Bearings
specifications. Signed by the builder!
DRS-380 GEN III High Torque “Blueprinted” Top Gun or TA/FC C-Can Motor W/ Redline Quads, Bearings, Shunts
DRS-381 GEN III C-Can “Redline” High Torque Quad Magnets Each $21.95
The same High Torque extended tip magnets that we use in our high quality DRS GEN III High Torque C-Can Motors and SetUps for. They install (in our low carbon motor cans) at approximately .480". This allows you to hone the airgap to your dimensions. We
can not insure that they will install at this airgap in other manufacturer's cans.
DRS-382 Grp. 12 Redline Low Dwell Armature
This armature is made to our demanding race specifications. By “low dwell” we mean low rotational magnetic overlap. Each separate
pole of the arm is in one magnetic field at a time.
DRS-383 Grp. 20 Redline Low Dwell Armature
This armature is made to our demanding race specifications. By “low dwell” we mean low rotational magnetic overlap. Each separate
pole of the arm is in one magnetic field at a time.
**Genuine Custom Built Centerfire Grp 27, Grp 7 Drag Motor
The Motors that have been WINNING all the races as well as SETTING the records
These Motors are set-up and designed for BOGG Glue Racing. They have too much torque for Conventional Gluing Methods.
The Part Numbers!
Set-Up:
DRS-350 DRS Billet Bullet Motor Set-Up.
Complete Motors: “Centerfire”
DRS-350-1 DRS Billet Bullet Motor. (14 turn 23ga)
DRS-350-2 DRS Billet Bullet Motor. (15 turn 23ga)
DRS-350-3 DRS Billet Bullet Pro-Stock Motor. (Group 27 Arm)
Armatures:
DRS-352 .450 Dia. Centerfire Armature 15/23
DRS-355 .450 Dia. Centerfire Armature 14/23
DRS-357 .450 Dia. Centerfire Grp. 27 Armature
Please read the fine print below!
**Centerfire Motors and Gunslinger Cars are available through your local Raceway on a custom order basis only. The Centerfire Motors and Armatures
are built and designed for DRAG RACING ONLY. The armature timing, air gap, spring tension, stack design, and magnet design ARE NOT
RECOMMENDED FOR ROAD RACE CARS! This is the same deal as full-scale racing. You can not take a 6000+ HP Top Fuel motor and race it at
Daytona or Indy!
**Genuine Custom Built Gunslinger AA/FC Rolling Chassis
The Gunslinger represents the finest example of High Technology in Slotcar Racing today! You will have no doubt in your
mind when you pick up and turn over one of these Crown Jewels that you are looking at the finest Slotcar available at ANY PRICE. The
attention to detail is simply nothing short of INCREDIBLE. Each and every car is COMPLETELY HAND ASSEMBLED by Bob Herrick
using the finest parts available from our Complete Drag Racing Inventory.
First Bob starts with a Specially Designed Motor Box and Strut Assembly, then fabricates the outer rails from Hollow Stainless
Steel Tubing. Then using his Exclusively Designed Thermal Soldering Station, He solders the rails to the Motor Box Assembly at a high
ambient temperature to prevent temperature-induced stress. Then Bob finishes the chassis to His RACE SPECIFICATIONS (gained
from unmatched experience in slotcar drag racing) topped off with a clear mounted body.
The Common misconception is that a lighter car is better. Fact: fragile lightweight cars do not win the “Big Races” and all the
cars that are holding The Records along with winning the big races have been weighing between 50 to 57 grams. We are using Hollow
Tubing to allow a more rigid Chassis for BOGG Glue racing that has become common at the “Big Races”.
We were building the 37 to 50 gram cars back in the 80’s and quickly learned that this type of car will on occasion make a good
pass, after much lane preparation. Put that same car on the line at a “Big Race” with 60 seconds to stage with varying glue conditions
and you will soon be watching the race from the sidelines, much less not having a chance to set the record!
Slide in one of our Genuine Centerfire Grp 27, Grp 7 Drag Motors or have us install one for you, and we will see you in the
Final Round!!
Please read the fine print below!
**Centerfire Motors and Gunslinger Cars are available through your local Raceway on a custom order basis only. The Centerfire Motors and Armatures
are built and designed for DRAG RACING ONLY. The armature timing, air gap, spring tension, stack design, and magnet design ARE NOT
RECOMMENDED FOR ROAD RACE CARS! This is the same deal as full-scale racing. You can not take a 7000+ HP Top Fuel motor and race it at
Daytona or Indy!
DRS Drag Tires
I have noticed a trend forming over the last few years. This trend involves lightweight components. There must be a
lightweight this or that for every part that makes up a "State Of The Art" Slot Drag Car. You have lightweight axles, .510" diameter
armatures, tri-lite gears, guide nuts, .010 bodies, and last, but certainly not least, my favorite, "lightweight solid lead wire"! One area
that has seemed to get by most Racer’s is "rotating weight".
Besides buying a hollow axle, maybe springing for a "tri-lite" gear that is about all the thought that is placed on this most
important subject. Well I will tell you this. The tire weight has more effect on this than a light gear and a hollow axle. Why? Because the
total rotating weight of the tire is farther from the centerline of the rotating assembly. Of all the things that you can do to lighten your
rotating assembly. You should prioritize them as follows.
Tires : Most of the rotating weight is located here. The largest rotating weight reduction will occur here.
Gear: This should be second on the list of upgrades done to your car as the gear weight does qualify as being a part of the
total rotating weight off the centerline.
Hollow Axles : This does not have as much effect of the rotating weight because its mass is very close to the centerline of the
rotating assembly. As long as we are on the subject of hollow axles I have a couple of observations. The trend seems to be to use a
non magnetic hollow axle. Sound theory or not? My comment is that the ones that I have seen are made from a fairly soft Stainless
Steel.
When you tighten your gear or tire to the axle it causes a dimple to form on the axle. They dimple enough that you can’t
remove the axle from the car for servicing due to the dimple not being able to slide through the bearing. Well, if this happens it can be a
bad deal. First if the axle is getting a dimple, it more than likely is also causing the tire/gear to be off center. Not to mention that
tires/gears mounted on a dimpled axle are likely to come loose! Yeah, I sell hollow axles, ones that do not dimple! DRS-155 is the Part
Number. For those that think that I am trying to sell parts, surprise I am. High quality ones at that.
Our tires have 3/32” axle hubs on all applications. We also have a full setscrew boss on the hub. Why?
Glad you asked. Our competitors should think about their practice of milling flats on the sides of the setscrew
boss on the hub. If they did they would find that this does reduce weight to a slight degree, it also causes the axle
bore to distort as soon as you tighten the hub to your axle. This is caused by the hub stretching at the very thin
spots that remain after they are milled on the side of the setscrew boss!
This is something that will cause the best of cars not to perform at the optimum level! Our answer to this was to use well
designed hubs instead. Simple, right? Not really, It took years of drag racing, and research and design to foresee the problems BEFORE
we manufacture the product. We do not sell prototypes to the unsuspecting racer. We sell products that have been tested and
approved by the company that was the first to offer full line commercial slotcar drag racing products. And we are still the only company
that has what it takes for our customers to win at any level.
Our drag tires are made with large diameter hubs for reasons not obvious to our competitors. These large diameter hubs do not
tend to have the problem of sidewall run-out common to the smaller diameter hubs, once used by us, and now common in the industry.
We were the first to realize that while these smaller hubs can work as well, they are only practical if hand built, which just is not meant
for manufacturing. The tires also are made with a small radius to get that full width tire contact on the track. If you need a tire with less
width we suggest rounding the tire off on the outside corner with a emery board to your desired width. This method helps if the car
gets a little out of shape, it does not get up on the edge of the tire causing a severe loss of traction, but allows the car to settle back
down and continue the run without deslotting.
Our tires have several more features, which makes them stand alone when it comes to drag racing tires. First is the fact that we
do not spare any expense when it comes to the glue that is used, the fit of the axle, and last the quality of the tire compound used to
manufacture them.
DRS TIRES HAVE BEEN THE NUMBER ONE QUALIFIER AND WINNER
AT MORE MAJOR RACES THAN ANY OF THE OTHER BRANDS!
DRS-110 “Yellow Dot” Drag Tires 1.0” Tall .400” Wide 3/32” Axle Drilled Hubs, Hollow Set-Screws!
These tires have won more National events in AA/FC and Pro-Stock than any of the other brands. They have made more sub
.500 and over 100 MPH passes on more different tracks than ALL the others! Koford Drag Glue recommended For AA/FC or Pro-Stock!
DRS-162 .300 “Fish” Tires 1.0” Tall .300” Wide 3/32” Axle Drilled Hubs, Hollow Set-Screws!
A good C-Can tire for those tracks that are a little on the “Low Bite” side. Will also hook some Pro-Stock Cars. Tired of your
tires “chunking”? Try these! Koford Drag Glue recommended.
Our choice for C-Can Racing on “High Bite” National Event type tracks. Winner of the 1999 “Winternationals” in Pro-Mod,
and A/FC. Also runner up in F/M. The F/M car had three races on the same tires before this event. Tired of your tires “chunking”? Try
these! Koford Drag Glue recommended.
DRS-173 .300 “Yellow Dot” Bracket/Index Tires 1.0” Tall .300” Wide 3/32” Axle Drilled Hubs, Hollow Set-Screws!
We have been making these tires for Robby’s Bracket/Index cars for a couple of years. He won both Brackets and Super
Comp. at the 1998 “Winternationals” in February. Then took the same cars to the 1998 World Championship in May and won the
Bracket race. Using the SAME tires. We now sell these to our customers. Tire Bite Light or Koford Drag Glue recommended.
For those real hard to hook cars. Also sometimes good for AA/FC on low power W/ Tire Bite Light.
DRS-175 1.06”x .300” Yellow Dot Dragster Tires 3/32” Axle Drilled Hubs, Hollow Set-Screws!
A Race Tires for Scale Appearing Dragsters. Put these on after you win “The Best Of Show” with the wide tires, then Top Qualify!
DRS-182 .510" X 1 3/16" Large Hub Drag Tires
A large diameter, wide, scale appearing budget tire for Bracket/Index Racing. Koford Drag Glue recommended.
A large diameter, narrow, scale appearing budget tire for Bracket/Index Racing. Koford Drag Glue recommended.
A medium diameter, wide, scale appearing budget tire for Bracket/Index Racing. Koford Drag Glue recommended.
A medium diameter, narrow, scale appearing budget tire for Bracket/Index Racing. Koford Drag Glue recommended.
DRS-186 1.06” X .300” Fish Drag Tires
A larger diameter version of our DRS-162 Koford Drag Glue recommended.
DRS-187 1.06” X .275” Fish Drag Tires
A larger diameter version of our DRS-172 Koford Drag Glue recommended.
DRS-188 1.0”x .250” Fish Drag Tires
Good for Group 12 or S16d Class Racing Koford Drag Glue recommended.
DRS-191 .510" X 1 1/16" Large Hub Fish Tires
A medium diameter, wide, scale appearing race tire for Scale Appearing Class Racing. Koford Drag Glue recommended.
DRS-192 .510" X 1 1/8" Large Hub Fish Tires
A medium diameter, wide, scale appearing race tire for Scale Appearing Class Racing. Koford Drag Glue recommended.
Drag Chassis
DRS-01 KIT DRS-02 ASSEMBLED PRO-STRAP CHASSIS
This chassis has been designed for the Blown Doorslammer or Pro-Stock class and all classes that use a doorslammer type
body with a cobalt strap motor at a minimum weight of 90 grams. Our chassis has floating pans to make the weight instead of lead
weights added as ballast because this class of car needs to have a means of absorbing the shock of the launch. The motor box has
been designed for Group 7 or 27 Strap Type Cobalt Motors and when used with the correct gears, the motor angle and gear meshes are
optimum. The Choice of The Fast Crowd!
THIS IS THE FIRST SPRING STEEL DRAG RACE CHASSIS EVER MADE!
Classes Recommended for: Blown Doorslammer, Pro Stock.
Recommended Bodies: DRS-513 Firebird, DRS-533 Camaro, DRS-547 Stealth, DRS-539 Caviler. Others will fit also.
We recommend race tested and approved Genuine DRS parts to complete your Rolling Chassis. DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag
Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (2 required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers, DRS-103 3/32 Bearings,
DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS-162, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S 1/8 X 1/8 Square Box Tubing
DRS-01, 02 PRO-STRAP CHASSIS
DRS-03, 04 PRO-CEE CHASSIS
DRS-03 KIT DRS-04 ASSEMBLED PRO-CEE CHASSIS
This chassis has been designed for the Factory-Modified, Hard Body Classes, Pro-Modified, Top Gun and Top-Sportsman
classes. These classes are based on c-can type group 12 and 20 motors. The motor box has been designed for c-can type motors and
when used with the correct gears, the motor angle and gear mesh are optimum. We also have a DRS-111 motor tab available separately
which allows the motor to be mounted with screws, not solder. A longer wheelbase equals a smoother, more consistent car. Especially
on less than optimum tracks!
Classes Recommended for: Factory Modified, Top-Gun, Top Sportsman.
Recommended Bodies: DRS-513 Firebird, DRS-533 Camaro, DRS-547 Stealth, DRS-539 Caviler. Others will fit also.
DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS-172 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S 1/8 X 1/8 Square Box Tubing
DRS-09 KIT DRS-10 ASSEMBLED PRO-CEE FUNNY CAR CHASSIS
This chassis has been designed for the A/FC or BB/FC funny car class. The A/FC class uses a group 20 motor with a minimum
weight limit of 90 grams. The BB/FC class uses a group 12 motor with a minimum weight limit of 90 grams.
Classes Recommended for: A/FC, BB/FC, E/FC, Brackets.
Recommended Bodies: DRS-511 Vette F/C, DRS-536 Camaro F/C, DRS-537 High Downforce Camaro F/C.
Braid, DRS-149 Drilled 500 Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (2 required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers, DRS-103 3/32 Bearings,
DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS-172 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S 1/8 X 1/8 Square Box Tubing
DRS-09, 10 PRO-CEE FUNNY CAR CHASSIS
DRS-19, 20 PRO-DRAGSTER CHASSIS
DRS-19 KIT DRS-20 ASSEMBLED PRO-DRAGSTER CHASSIS
This chassis has been designed for the AA/FD class w/Grp. 7 motor, TA/D class w/Grp. 27 motor, A/D class w/Grp. 20 motor.
This chassis has been designed to accept strap motors, or, c-can type motors. We were able to do this, as a dragster body is not as
narrow as a funny-car body. All that needs to be done to accomplish this is to trim the rear motor attachment brace slightly to allow for
the larger diameter c-can motor.
Classes Recommended for: All Dragster Classes, Quick 16, and Brackets.
Recommended Bodies: DRS-522 DRS/Wedge Body.
Braid, DRS-149 Drilled .500 Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (3 required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers, DRS-103 3/32 Bearings,
DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS-110 Drag Tires For AA Racing, or DRS-172 Drag Tires, for C-Can Racing, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With
Wheels, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-25 KIT DRS-26 ASSEMBLED PRO-DRAGBIKE CHASSIS
This chassis has been designed for the Dragbike enthusiast to use in all Dragbike classes. These are some of the most fun
classes in slot drag racing. Where you can compete in the top classes without the large expense usually associated with high-end
racing. This chassis is designed with a belt drive system and comes complete with a specific front and rear wheel, the drive pulley for
the motor, and also the drive belt. Our rear wheel has the drive pulley built into the rear hub and comes with the rubber already mounted
to the rim. The kit and assembled chassis will come with all the parts necessary to build your Dragbike that are not readily available in
the slot car industry. We do recommend that you do use bearing's for the 1/8" rear axle and motor (at least on the drive side) to prevent
wear and subsequent axle wobble that could hurt performance. Our unique design does not really need a body, just a flat piece of lexan,
or thin aluminum to make the top of the gas tank, seat, and rear fender. Try The Drag Racing Specialties “Blueprinted” C-Can Motors
For The Best Performance!
Classes Recommended for: Dragbike
Recommended Bodies: DRS-504 Drag Bike Shell
We recommend race tested and approved Genuine DRS parts to complete your Rolling Chassis. DRS-115* Rear Wheel, DRS-116* Drive Belt,
DRS-117* Motor Pulley, DRS-118* Front Wheel, DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel, DRS143 .063 Retainers, DRS-104 1/8 Bearings, DRS-154 1/8 Solid Axle, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S .063
Wire
*Parts are included in kit or assembled version. They are also available separately.
DRS-33 GEN II True-Scale Dragster Kit DRS-34 GEN II True-Scale Dragster Assembled
This chassis is the one all you dragster fans have been waiting for. We know that the wedge type dragster body does not
have a scale appearance. The wedge body has but one purpose and that is to go fast and it does that very well. This chassis is
completely cut from spring steel; this includes parts like the steering linkage, bulkheads, roll cage, and the wing struts. This chassis
uses 3/32" rear axle and a screw mounted c-can motor approximate weight is 90 grams.
The Most Accurate "Scale" Appearance Ever Achieved In Slot-Racing History!! Must Be Seen To Be Believed.
Classes Recommended for: A/FD, Brackets
Recommended Bodies: DRS-538 “2002” True Scale Body
Braid, DRS-149 Drilled .500 Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (6 required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers, DRS-103 3/32” Axle
Bearings, DRS-155 3/32” Hollow Axle, DRS-186 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, K&S .047 Wire, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-43 KIT DRS-44 ASSEMBLED "JR." DRAGSTER CHASSIS
This chassis has been designed to use the new DRS-512 "Jr." Dragster body. It features an inline motor mount, 1/8” axle, and
most important a price that is lower than most of the wire chassis on the market and not much more than the stamped steel chassis. The
“Jr. Dragster” is built from spring steel, and these chassis feature most of the things that are on our pro chassis like pillowblocks, body
mounting provisions, and integral wheelie bars.
Classes Recommended for: Jr. Dragster, and Brackets.
Recommended Bodies: DRS-512 Jr. Dragster Body
Braid, DRS-149 Drilled .500 Front Wheels, DRS-104 1/8 Bearings, DRS-142 .047 Retainers, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels,
DRS-157 Inline Motor Tab for Screw Mounted motors, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (2 required), TQ Drag Wire
DRS-43, 44 "JR." DRAGSTER CHASSIS
DRS-45, 46"BRACKET MASTER" CHASSIS
DRS-45 KIT DRS-46 ASSEMBLED "BRACKET MASTER" CHASSIS
This chassis has been designed to use shorter bodies (Like DRS-541 Vega) with the chassis built in the short wheelbase
version. When the chassis is built in the long wheelbase version the DRS-513 Firebird, DRS 547 Stealth, and DRS-516 Stingray Vette
bodies are ideal. It features an inline motor mount, 3/32 nd axle, and most important a price that is lower than most of the wire chassis on
the market and not much more than the stamped steel chassis. The “Bracket Master” is built from spring steel, and these chassis feature
most of the things that are on our pro chassis like pillowblocks, body mounting provisions, and integral wheelie bars.
Classes Recommended for: Super Comp, Super Gas, Super Street, and Brackets.
Recommended Bodies: Most Drag Bodies
Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels, DRS-103 3/32” Axle Bearings, DRS-154 1/8 Solid Axle, DRS-142 .047 Retainers, DRS-146 .050
Stainless Steel (2 required), DRS-162 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, DRS-157 Inline Motor Tab for Screw
Mounted motors, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-47 KIT DRS-48 ASSEMBLED FLASH GROUP 20 WING CAR CHASSIS
This chassis has been designed for the popular World 12 or Group 20 wing car class. This class uses a chassis that must meet a
price restriction. The majority of the chassis for this class are made from dated piano wire designs. We manufacture our chassis from
blue tempered spring steel and still meet the price restriction that has been imposed. Our chassis uses some of the exclusive features
that we developed for our winning DRS-15 Ming chassis such as the curved outer rails. This allows the chassis to absorb the impact of
a crash and not break like some of the other designs are prone to do! We also have set up a few of these cars with international 15 setups, and with group 27 armatures, talk about having a fast, inexpensive car! One more use is with a little modification, a conventional cobalt
set-up will install and will give you performance that will surprise you.
Classes Recommended for: C-Can Motor Wing Car Road Racing
Recommended Bodies: Any currently popular Wing Car Body.
We recommend race tested and approved Genuine DRS parts to complete your Rolling Chassis.DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag
K&S 1/8 Square Brass Tubing, DRS-155 Hollow Axle, TQ Lead Wire, Your Favorite .765 Diameter Tires
DRS-49, 50 ULTRALITE PRO-FUNNY CAR CHASSIS
DRS-47, 48 FLASH WING CAR CHASSIS
DRS-49 KIT DRS-50 ASSEMBLED ULTRALITE PRO-FUNNY CAR CHASSIS
This chassis is the easiest to assemble spring steel funny car chassis on the market. Most important of all this chassis was designed by
a company that produces chassis designed for drag racing! Our chassis features very few solder joints and all unnecessary parts have
been eliminated to give you a lightweight winning chassis. One that does not run the risk of having one of the many solder joints come
loose at the worst possible time, in the final round with sixty seconds to stage! This chassis is recommended for the advanced racer as racing
lightweight chassis at the absolute limit is not something that is learned overnight. We at Drag Racing Specialties only build drag
chassis with the gear inside of the frame rails because this is the best way to evenly distribute the shock of the launch equally down
both sides of the chassis. Just try to imagine a 1=1 scale drag car with either the ladder bars or 4-link installed with one side offset from
the other, rest assured that car would not launch straight and true with the consistency that is required for you to win the “big race”!!
We get asked one question about our chassis designs always having a small motor box. This is done to provide a chassis with a
narrow track width so that the tires are under the body as far as possible to keep the glue cloud that rotates with the tires as the car is
going down the track from having as much effect on performance. The effect is caused by the cloud getting attached to the inside of
the body much like taffy being pulled by a machine. The old style long motor designs have been pretty well proven not to be the
fastest designs available. Fact all the records and most all of the wins have been accomplished with the new modern short motor
designs from DRS and others. Another very important feature if you have problems or need a little advice Drag Racing Specialties is
just a phone call away with the technical information that is not available anywhere else. This information has been obtained from years
of experience drag racing slot cars from California to Maine. Just ask yourself this question: which products win races and set records?
Classes Recommended for: AA/FC, Quick 16.
DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS-110 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-61 VW Chassis Kit DRS-62 VW Chassis Assembled
This chassis has been designed for the VW classes. These classes are based on c-can type 16d or group 12 and 20 motors.
The motor box has been designed for narrow c-can type motors and when used with the correct gears, the motor angle and gear mesh
are optimum. We also have a DRS-111 motor tab available separately which allows the motor to be mounted with screws, not solder.
Classes Recommended for: Volkswagen Or Others
Recommended Bodies: DRS-517 Volkswagen
DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS- 162, 172, Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S 1/8 X 1/8 Square Box
Tubing
DRS-61, 62 VW Chassis
DRS-67, 68 JR. Funny Car Chassis
DRS-67 JR. Funny Car Chassis Kit DRS-68 JR. Funny Car Chassis Assembled
This chassis can be built with two different wheelbase lengths. The rear pillowblocks have the locating tab offset. By turning
them around to the short version you can use our DRS-554 Olds Jr. Funnycar Drag Body! Use DRS Pin Tubing on the front axle to
mount front wheels and the front of the body. Use DRS Pin Tubing on the rear body mounting tabs to mount the rear of the body.
Classes Recommended for: Jr. Funny Car, Brackets.
Recommended Bodies: DRS-554 Olds Jr. Funnycar Drag Body
Braid, DRS-149 Drilled.500 Front Wheels, DRS-104 1/8 Bearings, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, DRS-157 Inline Motor Tab
for Screw Mounted motors, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-71 Bracket Master Funny Car Chassis Kit DRS-72 Bracket Master Funny Car Chassis Kit Assembled
This chassis can be built with two different wheelbase lengths. The rear pillowblocks have the locating tab offset. By turning
them around to the short version you can use our DRS- 511 Vette body with it or you can also use our DRS-501 altered body. In the
long version we are currently working on some new body designs for this application! Use 1/16” brass tubing on the front axle to
mount the DRS-124 front wheels and the front of the body unless you are using the DRS-501 altered body. In this application use a
button head screw to mount the front of the body to the hole on the DRS-134 guidepost. Use 1/16” brass tubing on the rear body
mounting tabs to mount the rear of the body.
Classes Recommended for: Funny Car and Brackets.
Braid, DRS-149 Drilled .500 Front Wheels, DRS-104 1/8 Bearings, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, DRS-157 Inline Motor Tab
for Screw Mounted motors, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-71, 72 Bracket Master Funny Car Chassis
DRS-75, 76 Bracket Master II Chassis
DRS-75 Bracket Master II Chassis Kit DRS-76 Bracket Master II Chassis Assembled
Can an improvement be made to the most popular drag chassis ever made? The original bracket master? You bet! The new
Bracket Master II features a sidewinder motor mount and is set up for a 3/32” axle. This is Bob’s chassis of choice for the super classes
as well as brackets. He has Trucks, Firebird’s, Corvette’s and with either 12 or 20 motors they build out at about 85 grams so running
them in class racing you just have to add a little weight to be legal. Absolutely the best value on the market.
At Drag Racing Specialties The Sportsman Racers Are Our Most Valued Customers And This Chassis Is For You.
Classes Recommended for: Super Comp, Super Gas, Super Street, Quick 16, and Brackets
Recommended Bodies: DRS-506 53 Studebaker, DRS-513 Firebird DRS-547 Stealth, DRS-516 Stingray, DRS-540 Nova, DRS-546 Nova
W/BBC
Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels, DRS-103 3/32 Bearings, DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel Pin Tubing (2
required), DRS-110, 162, 172, 173 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-77 Bracket Master II Funny Car Chassis Kit DRS-78 Bracket Master II Funny Car Chassis Assembled
This chassis was designed for the racer who knows that the spring steel chassis is the way to go but is on a budget. This
chassis features a lot of the things that are on our pro chassis like pillowblocks, body mounting provisions, and integral wheelie bars.
They are also designed to take c-can motors. These chassis are also used in our line of rolling chassis and ready to drag cars.
Classes Recommended for: Funny Car, Super Comp, Quick 16, and Brackets.
DRS-110, 162, 172, 173 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-77, 78 Bracket Master II Funny Car Chassis
DRS-79, 80 Bracket Master II Dragster Chassis
DRS-79 Bracket Master II Dragster Chassis Kit DRS-80 Bracket Master II Dragster Chassis Assembled
This chassis was designed for the racer who knows that the spring steel chassis is the way to go but, is on a budget. This
chassis features a lot of the things that are on our pro chassis like pillowblocks, body mounting provisions, and integral wheelie bars.
They are also designed to take c-can motors. These chassis are also are used in our line of rolling chassis and ready to drag cars.
Classes Recommended for: All Dragster Classes, Quick 16, And Brackets.
Recommended Bodies: DRS-522 DRS Wedge
DRS-110, 162, 172, 173 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, DRS-155 Hollow Axle, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-81 Roadmaster II 4.5" Stockcar Chassis Kit DRS-82 Roadmaster II 4.5" Stockcar Chassis Assembled
This chassis will be the choice for the 4 1/2” wheelbase stock car classes that are popular. This chassis is not meant to be a
substitute for the stamped steel chassis on the market, but it would make a good choice for the racers that are ready to move beyond
the limitations of stamped steel chassis. This chassis will accept c-can or 16d type motors and the popular 4 1/2” wheelbase bodies on
the market. Try one today and enjoy the tremendous potential that they have! Be sure that you do not solder the rear body mount to
the center section, only solder where shown. On the front part of the center section you will see a long oval shaped slot. You can cut
the center section in the center of the slot free and use two pieces of brass tubing with a piece of piano wire to make a mechanical pivot.
Then use two wire up stops on the rear bite bar to limit the free play. For the most scale appearing stock car on the Track, try the New
DRS-526 Monte Carlo 4.5” Stockcar Body. This body is SCALE and is pulled out of .015” Lexan. Imagine pulling the tape off your
freshly painted body without the Lexan tearing!
Classes Recommended for: 41/2” Nascar/Truck
Recommended Bodies: DRS-519 Chevy Stepside Pick up DRS-526 Monte Carlo 4.5” Stockcar Body
DRS-155 Hollow Axle, TQ Lead Wire, K&S 3/32 Square Brass Tubing, K&S .047 Wire, Your Favorite 13/16” Diameter Tires
DRS-81, 82 Roadmaster II 4.5" Stockcar Chassis
DRS-83, 84 Roadmaster II 4" GTP Chassis
DRS-83 Roadmaster II 4" GTP Chassis Kit DRS-84 Roadmaster II 4" GTP Chassis Assembled
This chassis will be the choice for the 4” wheelbase car classes that are popular. This chassis is not meant to be a substitute
for the stamped steel chassis on the market, but it would make a good choice for the racers that are ready to move beyond the
limitations of stamped steel chassis. This chassis will accept c-can or 16d type motors and the popular 4” wheelbase bodies on the
market. Try one today and enjoy the tremendous potential that they have! Be sure that you do not solder the rear body mount to the
center section, only solder where shown. On the front part of the center section you will see a long oval shaped slot. You can cut the
center section in the center of the slot free and use two pieces of brass tubing with a piece of piano wire to make a mechanical pivot.
Then use two wire up stops on the rear bite bar to limit the free play.
Classes Recommended for: Eurosport Road Racing, Nascar, World 12, Nastruck
Recommended Bodies: Intrepid, Slider, Or Any Nascar/Truck 4” Body
DRS-155 Hollow Axle, TQ Lead Wire, K&S 3/32 Square Brass Tubing, K&S .047 Wire, Your Favorite .13/16” Diameter Tires
DRS-85 Gunslinger Funny Car Chassis Kit
The Gunslinger represents the finest example of high technology in slotcar racing today! The kit comes with a specially
designed motor box and strut assembly, outer rails of hollow stainless steel tubing, drilled front wheels, guide, braid, body mounts,
retainers, and wheelie bar axle.
The Common misconception is that a lighter car is better. Fact: fragile lightweight cars do not win the “Big Races” and all the
cars that are holding The Records along with winning the big races have been weighing between 50 to 57 grams. We are using Hollow
Tubing to allow a more rigid Chassis for BOGG Glue racing that has become common at the “Big Races”.
We were building the 37 to 50 gram cars back in the 80’s and quickly learned that this type of car will, on occasion, make a
good pass after much lane preparation. Put that same car on the line at a “Big Race” with 60 seconds to stage with varying glue
conditions and you will soon be watching the race from the sidelines, much less not having a chance to set the record!
Slide in one of our Genuine Centerfire Grp 27, Grp 7 Drag Motors and we will see you in the Final Round!
Classes Recommended for: AA/FC, Quick 16.
We recommend race tested and approved Genuine DRS parts to complete your Rolling Chassis. DRS-103 3/32 Bearings, DRS-155 Hollow Axle,
DRS-110 Drag Tires, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-85, 86 Gunslinger Funny Car Chassis, Assembled Chassis Weight 10-10.5 Grams!
DRS-86 Gunslinger Funny Car Chassis, Assembled Weight 10-10.5 Grams!
The "Gunslinger" assembled. Slide in one of our Genuine Centerfire Grp 27, Grp 7 Drag Motors and we will see you in the Final
Round! Classes Recommended for: AA/FC, TA/FC, Quick 16, and Brackets.
DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS-110 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-93 Group 12 Chassis Kit DRS-94 Group 12 Chassis Assembled
A second generation Budget chassis for the "Wing Car" fans. Features a long pad for you to adjust the position of the rear
bite bar. A separate rear motor brace to mount your motor. Small pans for ballast, which are easily removed. And a one piece guide
holder for durability. One more use is with a little modification, a conventional cobalt set-up will install and will give you performance
that will surprise you. Classes Recommended for: World 12, Gp 27, And Gp 7 Wing Car Road Racing.
Recommended Bodies: Any currently popular Wing Car Body.
We recommend race tested and approved Genuine DRS parts to complete your Rolling Chassis.DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag
K&S 1/8 Square Brass Tubing, DRS-155 Hollow Axle, TQ Lead Wire, Your Favorite .765 Diameter Tires
DRS-95 Hardbody "Doorslammer" Chassis
DRS-93 Group 12 Chassis Kit DRS-94 Group 12
Chassis
DRS-95 Hardbody "Doorslammer" Chassis Kit
As popular as the "Hardbody" cars have become we knew it was time to release a chassis that has been designed for this type
of racing. When we started Slotcar Drag Racing over fourteen years ago, "Hardbody" racing was the only thing being raced at the time
as the lexan bodies had not showed up on the scene yet. So our experience with this type of racing has been incorporated into the
design. We added the features that we only wished for when we started racing. If you will notice on the chassis drawing, the motor box
has a new look. The rear pillowblocks are reversible to vary the wheelbase at the rear of the car. With this in mind, along with the fact
that no one uses the same gear ratio, we came up with a new design for c-can motor boxes, one that will allow you to choose for
yourself. On our car we are using a 15-52 ratio, and with this, we have our DRS C-Can Motor installed in a full "sidewinder" position.
Why? Ask the people that attended the 7 th annual "Winternationals" at Wichita Falls, Texas how the cars ran with the motors installed
in the full sidewinder position!
We recommend race tested and approved Genuine DRS parts to complete your Rolling Chassis. DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132
Drag Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels, DRS-103 3/32 Bearings, DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel Pin Tube (2
required), DRS-110, 162, 172, 173 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire.
DRS-97 Pro Truck Chassis Kit DRS-98 Pro Truck Chassis Assembled
NHRA is running this new class this year on a trial basis, to gauge crowd response. If it turns out to be popular it may be
added for the 1998 season. We know this class will be popular and bring to you a new chassis designed for this type of racing. Fits
DRS-549 ’99 Sonoma SWB Pickup Drag Body.
Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels, DRS-103 3/32 Bearings, DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel Pin Tube (2
required), DRS-110, 162, 172, 173 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, K&S 1/16 Round Brass Tubing, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-97 Pro Truck Chassis Kit DRS-98 Pro Truck Chassis
th
DRS-99, 100 1/24th Scale Euro-Cee Chassis
th
DRS-99 1/24 Euro-Cee Chassis Kit DRS-100 1/24 Euro-Cee Chassis
This chassis has been raced with much success in Europe. There are some raceways that want to try Econo-Sport Racing
(SDRA class) and we could not think of a better choice. This chassis was designed for square-nosed bodies, such as the Intrepid,
Mazda, and RM-1. If other style bodies are to be used, the front frame horns may be trimmed to provide body clearance if needed. Setup for .032 Front Clearance (using .025 supplied guide tongue spacer, .063 without), .063 Rear Clearance W/ .750 Rear Tires .032 Rear
Clearance W/ .700 Rear Tires.
We recommend race tested and approved Genuine DRS parts to complete your Rolling Chassis. DRS-134 Guide Flag, DRS-132 Drag
Braid, DRS-149 .500 Drilled Fronts, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel Pin Tube (1 required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers, DRS-103 3/32 Bearings,
DRS-153 3/32 Solid Axle, TQ Lead Wire, K&S 3/32 Round Brass Tubing, K&S .047 Wire, Your Favorite Diameter Tires
DRS-SW01 Pro Doorslammer Chassis Kit DRS-SW02 Pro Doorslammer Chassis Assembled
Clears up to a 58 tooth gear! Assembly Options and Instructions The new DRS-SW01 is a highly adaptable chassis, and can
be built in a large number of variations. Before assembly, review the following body mount and configuration options: Front Mount –
Depending on body type and personal preference, the front of the body may be mounted at two points straight off the front (A, below),
to the sides of the nose (B), or to the axle tube where it meets the body wheel well (C). Rear Mount – The rear of the body may be
mounted with a solid or "floater" tube at the chassis balance point (D, below), at the forward, higher upright hole (E), or the slightly
lower rear hole (F). Holes are large enough to permit proper "float" with either .050" or .062" tubing.
Wheelie Bar Braces – While not necessary for most C-Can motor applications, some motors (e.g., Top Gun or cobalt) or your
personal preference may require wheelie bar braces (DRS-146 .050 pin tubing is recommended) can be fitted to the radius under the rear
mount (as shown).
required), DRS-162 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-SW01, SW02 Pro Doorslammer Chassis
DRS-SW03, SW04 Altered F/C Chassis
DRS-SW03 Altered F/C Chassis Kit DRS-SW04 Altered F/C Chassis Assembled
Clears up to a 58 tooth gear! Assembly Options and Instructions The new DRS-SW03 is a highly adaptable chassis, and can
be built in a large number of variations. Before assembly, review the following body mount and configuration options: Front Mount –
Depending on body type and personal preference, the front of the body may be mounted at two points straight off the front, to the
sides of the nose or to the axle tube where it meets the body wheel well. Rear Mount – The rear of the body may be mounted with a
solid or "floater" tube at the chassis balance point, at the forward, higher upright hole, or the slightly lower rear hole. Holes are large
enough to permit proper "float" with either .050" or .062" tubing.
mount.
Drag Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels for Altered, DRS-149 .500 Drilled Front Wheels for Funny Car, DRS-103 3/32 Bearings,
DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel Pin Tube (3 required), DRS-162 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels,
TQ Drag Wire
DRS-SW05 DRS-166 Kit Assembled W/161
Clears up to a 58 tooth gear! Assembly Options and Instructions The new DRS-166 is a highly adaptable chassis kit, and can
be built in a large number of variations. Before assembly, review the following body mount and configuration options: We also
recommend using DRS-161 Chassis Tubing to build your new chassis. This tubing has been used by Bob Herrick since 1986! It IS what
is used by the fast crowd. Front Mount – Depending on body type and personal preference, the front of the body may be mounted at
two points straight off the front, to the sides of the nose (as shown), or to the axle tube where it meets the body wheel well. Rear Mount
– The rear of the body may be mounted with a solid or "floater" tube at the chassis balance point, at the forward, higher upright hole, or
the slightly lower rear hole (as shown). Holes are large enough to permit proper "float" with either .050" or .062" tubing.
mount (as shown).
required), DRS-161 Chassis Tubing (2 required), DRS-162 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire.
Wheelie Bar Braces – While not necessary for most C-Can motor applications, some motors (e.g., Top Gun or cobalt) or your personal
preference may require wheelie bar braces (DRS-146 .050 pin tubing is recommended) can be fitted to the radius under the rear mount
(as shown).
Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled for Altered, DRS-149 .500 Drilled Front Wheels for Funny Car, DRS-103 3/32 Bearings, DRS-155 Hollow Axle,
DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel Pin Tube (5 required), DRS-161 Chassis Tubing (2 required), DRS-162 Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar
Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire.
DRS-SW07 Pro Truck Chassis Kit DRS-SW08 Pro Truck Chassis Assembled
The new DRS-SW07 is a highly adaptable chassis, and can be built in a large number of variations. Before assembly, review
the following body mount and configuration options: Front Mount – Depending on body type and personal preference, the front of the
body may be mounted at two points straight off the front, to the sides of the nose or to the axle tube where it meets the body wheel
well. Rear Mount – The rear of the body may be mounted with a solid or "floater" tube at the chassis balance point, at the forward,
higher upright hole, or the slightly lower rear hole. Holes are large enough to permit proper "float" with either .050" or .062" tubing.
preference may require wheelie bar braces (DRS-146 .050 pin tubing is recommended) can be fitted to the radius under the rear mount.
DRS-SW09 Pro Stock Chassis Kit DRS-SW10 Pro Stock Chassis Assembled
The new DRS-SW09 is a highly adaptable cobalt motor chassis, and can be built in a large number of variations. Before
assembly, review the following body mount and configuration options: Front Mount – Depending on body type and personal
preference, the front of the body may be mounted at two points straight off the front, to the sides of the nose or to the axle tube where
it meets the body wheel well. Rear Mount – The rear of the body may be mounted with a solid or "floater" tube at the chassis balance
point, at the forward, higher upright hole, or the slightly lower rear hole. Holes are large enough to permit proper "float" with either
.050" or .062" tubing. Wheelie Bar Braces –Your personal preference may require wheelie bar braces (DRS-146 .050 pin tubing is
recommended) can be fitted to the radius under the rear mount.
DRS-SW11 Econo Scale Dragster Chassis Kit DRS-SW12 Econo Scale Dragster Chassis Assembled
This chassis is one of the lightest, and the easiest to assemble spring steel dragster chassis on the market. Our chassis
features very few solder joints and all unnecessary parts have been eliminated to give you a lightweight winning chassis that does not
run the risk of having one of the many solder joints come loose at the worst possible time. This chassis is recommended for the
beginning racer as racing lightweight chassis at the absolute limit is not something that is learned overnight. Another very important
feature if you have problems or need a little advice Drag Racing Specialties is just a phone call away with the technical information that
is not available anywhere else. This information has been obtained from15+ years of experience drag racing slot cars from California to
Maine.
Recommended Body: DRS-538 2002 True Scale Dragster Body.
DRS SW13-18 Inline Chassis. This chassis is the same for all numbers except for length from guide centerline to rear axle.
We've heard your requests for a real Pro Type Inline Chassis for Hardbody racing, and the DRS SW13-18 is a group of several chassis
we've developed to respond to those needs The "California Style" of Hardbody racing makes use of both normal and large, wide, "scale" tires on
older, "nostalgia"-style bodies. As model kits of these cars are not as wide as later cars, and generally have a great deal of body tuck-under or curved
sides, it makes tire clearance a major headache, even with existing sidewinder chassis and components. With the larger tires, an inline chassis is
usually a necessity! Until now, the choice has been limited in the selection of parts used in the construction of inline chassis. The popular choice has
been the brass style, "U-shaped" bracket that fits the rear axle, and has a provision for a screw in motor. This is a stamped and folded piece that can
have any number of problems, such as poor alignment of the rear axle (makes the car dog track as it goes down the drag strip) and most importantly,
the alignment of the motor and axle!
When the motor and axle are not aligned properly, it make a good gear mesh impossible. The axle and motor shaft MUST mounted at the
same height. The first advantage of the DRS SW13-18 solution is the front nose piece. It allows, depending on body type and personal preference, the
front of the body to be mounted at three points: straight off the front, or to the sides of the nose with two different locations. Remove the pair of side
frame horns that are not needed. It also has an adjustable front axle mount, which allows the use of a incredibly wide range of bodies, from muscle car
favorites of the '60s and '70s all the way back to Gasser models of the '30s and '40s! And, of course, it will also work equally well with those lexan
bodies that have been hard to use with a conventional sidewinder setup. The DRS SW13-18 chassis features a sturdy, precision .050" steel Motor Tab
to mount your motor with screws, and rest assured, our motor tab and pillowblocks are exactly aligned properly for maximum performance. You will
notice that the motor tab has provisions for either horizontal or vertical motor mounting. It also will take our new four screw motor mounting system
that we developed for our new Gen III Motors, again either horizontal or vertical. The pillowblocks are sized for 3/32nd axles. No more adapters, and
Ball Bearings are now easy to use! The rear of the body may be mounted with a solid or "floater" tube at the chassis balance point, at the forward,
higher upright hole, or the slightly lower rear hole (as shown). Holes are large enough to permit proper "float" with either .050" or .062" tubing.
DRS-SW13 Inline Chassis Kit DRS-SW14 Inline Chassis Assembled 5¼" Guide Lead
Use with 1 1/16 th to 1 1/8th Diameter Tires, Like our DRS-191 .510" X 1 1/16" or DRS-192 .510" X 1 1/8" Large Hub Fish Tires.
Fits: Revell Pontiac Trans Am Pro Stock, Olds Pro Stock, Revell '83 and Monogram '86 T-Bird Pro Stock kits.
required), DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire
DRS-SW15 Inline Chassis Kit DRS-SW16 Inline Chassis Assembled 4 ¾" Guide Lead
Use with 1 1/16 th to 1 1/8th Diameter Tires, Like our DRS-191 .510" X 1 1/16" or DRS-192 .510" X 1 1/8" Large Hub Fish Tires.
Fits: Monogram '93&'99 Camaro, Monogram '93,'97,'01 Firebird, AMT '93&'98 Camaro, AMT '93&'98 Firebird Trans Am, Revell '99
Mustang Cobra, Revell '89,'90,&'91 Thunderbird SC (stock), Revell '89,'90,&'91 Pontiac Gran Prix, Revell '97 Vette (probably everybody's
C5 Vettes).
DRS-SW17 Inline Chassis Kit DRS-SW18 Inline Chassis Assembled 4 ½" Guide Lead
Use with 1 1/16 th to 1 1/8th Diameter Tires, Like our DRS-191 .510" X 1 1/16" or DRS-192 .510" X 1 1/8" Large Hub Fish Tires
Fits: AMT '88 Mustang, AMT '97 Mustang, Tamiya '94 & '95 Mustang, Revell '69 Mustang, AMT '67 Camaro, Revell '69 Camaro, AMT
'89 & '90 Ford Probe, Brookfield Dodge/Plymouth Neon Promo, MPC '82 Chevy Cavalier.
Tube/Wire Chassis Kits
DRS-159 Doorslammer Wire Chassis Kit
New Second generation design. This kit uses your wire and parts. .063 wire is a good place to start. We came up with a new
design for c-can motor boxes, one that will allow you to choose for yourself. On our car we are using a 15-52 ratio, and with this, we
have our DRS C-Can Motor installed in a full "sidewinder" position. Why? Ask the people that attended the 7th annual
"Winternationals" at Wichita Falls, Texas how the cars ran with the motors installed in the full sidewinder position! Fits all the DRS
Doorslammer bodies.
DRS-159 Doorslammer Wire Chassis
DRS-160 Altered/ Funny Car Wire Chassis
DRS-160 Altered/ Funny Car Wire Chassis Kit.
New Second generation design. This kit uses your wire and parts. .063 wire is a good place to start. We came up with a new
design for c-can motor boxes, one that will allow you to choose for yourself. On our car we are using a 15-52 ratio, and with this, we
have our DRS C-Can Motor installed in a full "sidewinder" position. Why? Ask the people that attended the 7th annual
"Winternationals" at Wichita Falls, Texas how the cars ran with the motors installed in the full sidewinder position!
DRS-166 Full Sidewinder Doorslammer Wire Chassis Kit
– The rear of the body may be mounted with a solid or “floater” tube at the chassis balance point, at the forward, higher upright hole, or
the slightly lower rear hole (as shown). Holes are large enough to permit proper “float” with either .050” or .062” tubing.
preference may require wheelie bar braces (DRS-146 .050 pin tubing is recommended) can be fitted to the radius under the rear mount (as
shown).
DRS-166 Full Sidewinder Doorslammer Wire Chassis Kit
DRS-167 Full Sidewinder Altered/ F/C Wire Chassis Kit
DRS-167 Full Sidewinder Altered/ F/C Wire Chassis Kit
preference may require wheelie bar braces (DRS-146 .050 pin tubing is recommended) can be fitted to the radius under the rear mount
(as shown).
DRS 176 Pro-Inline Chassis Kit. For "California Style" Hardbody Racing.
We've heard your requests for a real Pro Type Inline Chassis for Hardbody racing, and the DRS 176 is the first of several kits
we've developed to respond to those needs The "California Style" of Hardbody racing makes use of both normal and large, wide,
"scale" tires on older, "nostalgia"-style bodies. As model kits of these cars are not as wide as later cars, and generally have a great deal
of body tuck-under or curved sides, it makes tire clearance a major headache, even with existing sidewinder chassis and components.
With the larger tires, an inline chassis is usually a necessity! Until now, the choice has been limited in the selection of parts used in the
construction of inline chassis. The popular choice has been the brass style, "U-shaped" bracket that fits the rear axle, and has a
provision for a screw in motor. This is a stamped and folded piece that can have any number of problems, such as poor alignment of the
rear axle (makes the car dog track as it goes down the drag strip) and most importantly, the alignment of the motor and axle! When the
motor and axle are not aligned properly, it make a good gear mesh impossible. The axle and motor shaft MUST mounted at the same
height. The first advantage of the DRS 176 solution is the front nose piece. It allows, depending on body type and personal preference,
the front of the body to be mounted at two points: straight off the front, or to the sides of the nose. It also has an adjustable front axle
mount, and full .050" steel protection for the guide flag, which allows the use of a incredibly wide range of bodies, from muscle car
favorites of the '60s and '70s all the way back to Gasser models of the '30s and '40s! And, of course, it will also work equally well with
those lexan bodies that have been hard to use with a conventional sidewinder setup. The DRS 176 chassis features a sturdy, precision
.050" steel Motor Tab to mount your motor with screws, and rest assured, our motor tab and pillowblocks are exactly aligned properly
for maximum performance. The pillowblocks are sized for 3/32nd axles. No more adapters, and Ball Bearings are now easy to use! The
rear of the body may be mounted with a solid or "floater" tube at the chassis balance point, at the forward, higher upright hole, or the
slightly lower rear hole (as shown). Holes are large enough to permit proper "float" with either .050" or .062" tubing. Used with our
Stainless Steel Chassis Tubing (DRS-161) this chassis will fit any 1/24th 1/25 th chassis that I can think of. It even fits the Thames Panel
Truck - with .350" wide tires!
DRS 176 Pro-Inline Chassis Kit
DRS-177 Pro Top Gun Chassis Kit. .025" Material!
DRS-177 Pro Top Gun Chassis Kit. .025" Material!
I have been racing in a series that runs Top Gun at a 70 gram minimum weight. I found that with my current chassis kits, and
using a Studebaker body, the lightest I could get a car without serious modification was about 74-78 grams. Well, with this kit, the same
style chassis and body, my car came in at 66 grams ready to race! If you're looking for a light C-Can chassis, here's your answer! The
DRS 177 kit is cut from .025" material, versus the normal .050" material. I also trimmed and hollowed out the individual components in
every place that would not compromise the strength or durability of the chassis. You'll also notice that it comes with a rear wheelie
mount that slides into the end of our DRS 161 chassis tubing. This save the hassle of bending this piece from .047' wire. I set mine up
with a 4.750" long wheelie bars, then used 4.0" wheelie bar braces. The angle of the wheelie bar brace slots in the pillowblocks are set at
this length and angle. I'm running a 10-54 gear ratio with our Top Gun Motor (DRS-324) on my car. With this combination, I have run a
.622 @91.00 MPH! Not bad for a C-Can Motor. My next project using this kit and motor will be a TG/FC. That’s right - a Top Gun Funny
Car! I bet I can run .5s at 100+ MPH with this combo. Boy, I remember back in 1990 when I ran the first .5 in slot history. I was using a 56
gram OPEN STRAP motored AA/FC. It was this same car that I ran the first 100 MPH Run in Slot History (Race Teck Magic Four
Motor). If you have your National Dragster back issues, check the March 15 1991 issue. I got a little national publicity for that feat!
(Sorry for the Braggadocio <grin>) Things have sure changed in 10 years.
DRS 178 Scale Tire Pro-Inline Chassis
DRS-180 Sidewinder, Screw in Motor Wire Chassis
DRS 178 Scale Tire Pro-Inline Chassis Kit. For "California Style" Hardbody Racing.
We've heard your requests for a real Scale Tire Pro Type Inline Chassis for Hardbody racing, and the DRS 178 is the second of
several kits we've developed to respond to those needs The "California Style" of Hardbody racing makes use large, wide, "scale" tires
on older, "nostalgia"-style bodies. As model kits of these cars are not as wide as later cars, and generally have a great deal of body
tuck-under or curved sides, it makes tire clearance a major headache, even with existing sidewinder chassis and components. With the
Scale Tires, an inline chassis is usually a necessity!
Until now, the choice has been limited in the selection of parts used in the construction of inline chassis. The popular choice
has been the brass style, "U-shaped" bracket that fits the rear axle, and has a provision for a screw in motor. This is a stamped and
folded piece that can have any number of problems, such as poor alignment of the rear axle (makes the car dog track as it goes down
the drag strip) and most importantly, the alignment of the motor and axle! When the motor and axle are not aligned properly, it make a
good gear mesh impossible. The axle and motor shaft MUST mounted at the same height.
The first advantage of the DRS 178 solution is the front nose piece. It allows, depending on body type and personal
preference, the front of the body to be mounted at two points: straight off the front, or to the sides of the nose. It also has an adjustable
front axle mount, and full .050" steel protection for the guide flag, which allows the use of a incredibly wide range of bodies, from
muscle car favorites of the '60s and '70s all the way back to Gasser models of the '30s and '40s! And, of course, it will also work equally
well with those lexan bodies that have been hard to use with a conventional sidewinder setup.
The DRS 178 chassis features a sturdy, precision .050" steel Motor Tab to mount your motor with screws, and rest assured,
our motor tab and pillowblocks are exactly aligned properly for maximum performance. The pillowblocks are sized for 3/32nd axles. No
more adapters, and Ball Bearings are now easy to use! The rear of the body may be mounted with a solid or "floater" tube at the chassis
balance point, at the forward, higher upright hole, or the slightly lower rear hole (as shown). Holes are large enough to permit proper
"float" with either .050" or .062" tubing. Used with our Stainless Steel Chassis Tubing (DRS-161) this chassis will fit any 1/24th 1/25 th
chassis that I can think of. It even fits the Thames Panel Truck - with .350" wide tires!
As Shipped
Trimmed for AA/FC Trimmed for P/S
DRS-179 The “Silencer” AA/Fuel Coupe or Pro-Stock Chassis.
The First Upgrade in AA/Fuel Coupe and Pro-Stock Racing Since The “Gunslinger”. Material List for this kit built to AA/FC
Specifications using the DRS 511 Corvette Body.
One piece of .072” DRS-161 Chassis Tubing 2.0” long (rear support tube). Two pieces of .072” DRS-161 Chassis Tubing 10.5”
long (main chassis tubes). One piece of DRS-146 .050” Pin Tubing two and one half inches long (rear body mount tube). One piece of DRS146 .050” Pin Tubing 1.55” long (front axle tube). One piece of DRS-146 .050” Pin Tubing 2.08” long (front body mount tube). Two pieces
of .050” Pin Tubing or .047” piano wire 4.0” long (wheelie bar braces).
We Recommend Race Tested and Approved Genuine Drag Racing Specialties Parts to Complete Your Rolling Chassis. DRS511 Corvette Body, DRS-134 Guide Flag and Nut, DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-149 Drilled .500 Front Wheels, DRS-142 .047 Retainers,
DRS-103 3/32” Bearings, DRS-155 Hollow Axle, DRS-110 Yellow Dot Drag Tires, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle, TQ Drag Wire.
Tuning the chassis comes from the length of the rear support tube. The rear body mount tube slides inside of the rear support
tube. When you cut the rear support tube 2.0” long you will find that it will be flush with the outsides of the pillowblocks. In this
configuration, the chassis will be quite flexible when the body is mounted. If you lengthen the rear support tube to the same length as
the rear body mount, you will find when the body is mounted, the chassis will be quite stiff, due to lack of flexibility in the rear body
mount tube. Trimming back the rear support tube exposes more of the rear body mount tube, in turn this will allow complete tuning of
the chassis flex. If You Have Problems Or Need A Little Advice Drag Racing Specialties Is Just A Phone Call Away (972-881-0209)
With The Technical Information That Is Not Available Anywhere Else. This Information Has Been Obtained From Years Of Experience
Drag Racing Slot Cars From California To Maine.
DRS-180 Sidewinder, Screw in Motor Wire Chassis Kit.
This chassis is similar to DRS-166 Chassis Kit. The major difference is that it has a screw in motor provision. The chassis can
be built for Doorslammers or Funny Cars. You just pick which axle configuration, large wheels for the Doorslammers and small wheels
for the Funny Cars.
DRS-181 "Sliding Ballast" Nitro Sidewinder Chassis Kit .025"
This chassis, although similar to DRS-180 is unique with its ability to easily move the weight bar forward and aft. This changes
the balance point of the chassis. More weight on the braid or the rear tires is now easily attainable. This chassis also has a provision
for a screw in motor mount. Unlike the DRS-180 you can use this feature or not. For those wishing to know, We always prefer to solder
in the motor, not mount it with screws. This chassis is our chassis of choice for Hardbody Racing as with an average body, you can
build a car at about 90 grams. In SDRA Drag Racing this gives us around 30 grams of ballast to put where we want it on the chassis for
optimum performance.
DRS-181 "Sliding Ballast" Nitro Sidewinder Chassis
DRS 190 Scale Tire Hardbody Pro-Stock Inline Chassis
DRS 190 Scale Tire Hardbody Pro-Stock Inline Chassis Kit.
We've heard your requests for a real Scale Tire Pro Type Inline Chassis for Hardbody Pro Stock racing, and the DRS 190 is one
of several kits we've developed to respond to those needs The "California Style" of Hardbody racing makes use large, wide, "scale"
tires on older, "nostalgia"-style bodies. As model kits of these cars are not as wide as later cars, and generally have a great deal of
body tuck-under or curved sides, it makes tire clearance a major headache, even with existing sidewinder chassis and components.
With the Scale Tires, an inline chassis is usually a necessity!
Until now, the choice has been limited in the selection of parts used in the construction of inline chassis. The popular choice
has been the brass style, "U-shaped" bracket that fits the rear axle, and has a provision for a screw in motor. This is a stamped and
folded piece that can have any number of problems, such as poor alignment of the rear axle (makes the car dog track as it goes down
the drag strip) and most importantly, the alignment of the motor and axle! When the motor and axle are not aligned properly, it make a
good gear mesh impossible. The axle and motor shaft MUST mount at the same height. The first advantage of the DRS 190 solution is
the front nose piece. It allows, depending on body type and personal preference, the front of the body to be mounted at two points:
straight off the front, or to the sides of the nose. It also has an adjustable front axle mount The 190 Allows the use of a incredibly wide
range of bodies, from muscle car favorites of the '60s and '70s all the way back to Gasser models of the '30s and '40s! And, of course, it
will also work equally well with those lexan bodies that have been hard to use with a conventional sidewinder setup.
The DRS 190 chassis features a sturdy, precision .025" steel Motor Tab to mount your motor with screws, and rest assured,
our motor tab and pillowblocks are exactly aligned properly for maximum performance. The pillowblocks are sized for 3/32nd axles. No
more adapters, and Ball Bearings are now easy to use! The rear of the body may be mounted with a solid or "floater" tube at the chassis
balance point, at the forward, higher upright hole, or the slightly lower rear hole (as shown). Holes are large enough to permit proper
"float" with either .050" or .062" tubing. Used with our Stainless Steel Chassis Tubing (DRS-161) this chassis will fit any 1/24th 1/25 th
chassis that I can think of. It even fits the Thames Panel Truck with .350" wide tires!
Parts and Accessories
DRS-101 Glueboard "With Handle & Non Skid Feet"
“The original.” We were the first to use The Glueboard and was the first accessory sold by DRS!
DRS-103 3/32" Hi-Speed Axle Bearings True At 125+Mph
DRS-104 1/8" Hi-Speed Axle Bearings
DRS-105 2x5mm Unflanged Open Motor Bearing True At 125+Mph
DRS-107 2x5mm Flanged Open Motor Bearing True At 125+Mph
Our bearin gs are new premium quality high-grade bearings. We do not use the common term ("grade 7") to describe our
bearings as this term can sometimes be misleading. From what we have been told by leading bearing engineers "to be classified as
grade 7 that they only have to meet "grade 7" specifications on one dimension." We at Drag Racing Specialties do not claim to be
bearing engineers and this information has been provided by outside sources therefor we can not guarantee accuracy on this.
However there is one fact that we will state and that is these are the same bearings that have set numerous records and won countless titles
in the sport of slot drag racing. This also includes more below .500 second passes and more 110+ M.P.H. passes on the scale 1/4 mile than all other
brands combined! With the axle bearings we recommend that you install these with super glue or some type of liquid "bearing retainer".
We also use this method in our road-racing program with great success. We do this to prevent corrosion that can happen when you
solder in the bearings. To remove them, you simply heat them slightly and they will come right out. With motor bearings that must be
soldered in after you are finished you should wash them in hot soapy water to neutralize the acid flux then rinse and dry completely.
Then oil them with a high quality bearing oil such as Koford’s #M327. One trick that we do on motors that take a 2x6 mm can bearing is
to open up the hole slightly and use a 2x5mm flanged bearing with the flange centered in the hole and soldered in place. This makes a
smaller, lighter more compact package, also allows the pinion to be installed closer to the can which is very important on drag cars.
DRS-111 Screw In Motor Tab
Our Screw In Motor Tab "Fits Most Sidewinder C-Can Chassis". It is used to make a car with a screw mounted motor. Unlike a
stamped chassis this makes a very rigid mount that will keep your gear mesh where you set it. Good for the beginning racer and is not a
permanent modification so when your soldering skills improve you can remove it.
• "These Are The Only Factory Approved Replacement Parts For DRS-25, 26!"
DRS-115 Replacement Rear Wheel Assembly For DRS-25, 26 Dragbike
These are complete with hub, tire, pulley, and set screw.
DRS-116 Replacement Drive Belt For DRS-25, 26 Dragbike
This is for motor pulley to rear wheel pulley.
DRS-117 Replacement Press On Motor Pulley For DRS-25, 26 Dragbike
DRS-118 Replacement Front Wheel Assembly For DRS-25, 26 Dragbike
This comes complete with o-ring.
DRS-120 Hollow Set-Screws
We grind small setscrew flats on the axle 120 degrees apart. We do this because when you drill a wheel or gear to install a
setscrew you are adding material that is a lot heavier than you remove. Therefor, installing your wheels and gear 120 degrees apart you
are distributing this added weight evenly. DRS-120 Hollow Set-Screws are lighter in weight and help to further cut down on vibration.
the flats also allow you to tighten the set-screws down less tightly, causing less distortion of the axle bore. they come 15 to a package.
DRS-124 .820 Diameter Solid Front Wheels .050” Axle
Great For “Doorslammer” Type Cars
DRS-125 .500 Diameter Solid Front Wheels .050” Axle
Great For “Funny Cars” Or “Dragsters”
DRS-132 Drag Braid “This Is The Stuff We Use!” Thin And Flexible *10 Pair
DRS-133 Drag Braid “This Is The Stuff We Use!” Thin And Flexible 100 Pair
We use DRS-132 or DRS-133 drag braid. We like this braid for all applications because it is not as stiff as the other styles and
allows the braid to conform to the track braid easily. When you use a stiff braid on a drag car it tends to keep the front of the car up
causing two problems. First it does not provide good electrical contact. Second it tends to make the car sit up on the wheelie bar
wheels, which in turn keeps the rear tires up off the track causing wheelspin.
Something else to remember: the cars will get faster as the braid wears. This happens because the braid starts to form a slight
groove in the center and this helps the braid to conform to the braid on the track. You will find that this will really help the miles per
hour. On one of our test cars that exceeded 120 miles per hour the braid was so ragged and short most would have thrown it away.
There is no way to shorten the braid it just has to wear down.
We also have a preference for braid conditioner made by Speed Trick. It comes in a very nice bottle and is a lot thicker than
the others. We comb the braid about 1/8" on the end and apply a little Speed Trick about every 10 passes. One last thing is to keep the
braid clean on both the car and the track and do not forget the shutdown area. When the cars go through the glue in the shut-down
area it causes it to cloud up under the car and reapply itself all over the track braid. When the cars pick up this glue in the shutdown
area it is then carried to the starting line and will cause contact problems.
DRS-134 Drag Guides These Are the Ones We Use, Black Color for Trik Trax Timing Systems
These guides are what we use instead of the inferior graphite guide. The graphite guides are not as straight when installed.
Also if your car arcs a little it can cause the braid to melt to the guide. We sell the guides in the color black to trip the sensors on Trik
Trax Timing System. These Are The Guides Of Choice On The Fast Record Setting Cars!!
DRS-135 Wheelie Bar For Stamped Steel Chassis
Put spring steel wheelie bars on your stamped steel chassis and end your problems with the ones made from wire.
DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle w/Wheels Fits All drag cars
Why take the time to build your own when you too can have the same wheelie bar axle set-up that we use.
DRS-142 .047 Retainers
Use w/ DRS Wheelie Wheels And DRS Front Wheels
DRS-143 .063 Retainers
DRS-144 Precision .047 Axle Wheelie Wheels
The best there is. Same as used in our rollers, Rtd's, and the DRS-138 wheelie bar axle.
DRS-145 Retrofit Pillowblocks
For DRS-05, 06 from DRS-49
DRS-146 Stainless Steel .050 Pintubing for Body Mounts
Used to mount bodies on all slot cars. You absolutely must use stainless pin tubing when you use the front axle for the front body
mount (highly recommended).
DRS-147 Wheeliebar Assembly.
DRS-135 & 138 Assembled
DRS-148 Drilled.820 Front Wheels .050 Axle
DRS-149 Drilled.500 Front Wheels .050 Axle
These are the best value on the market. Heck you can buy three pairs of ours compared to some of the other vendors. Also these have
a .050 axle hole so the wheels fit snug when you use the front axle for the front body mount (highly recommended) using stainless pin
tubing.
DRS-155 Hollow Axles
Hard! So they do not bend and compress to the point where you can not remove the axle from the bearings due to dimples on the axle.
DRS-156 Pillowblocks W/ Wheelie Bar Brace
Fits most of the drag chassis on the market. Works well with the new high downforce bodies like the DRS-506, 515, 516.
DRS-157 Inline Motor Tab
Fits DRS-43, 44, 45, 46, 67, 68, 71, 72. Allows the use of a screw in motor!
DRS-158 Body Pins
These have a larger shaft size for a great fit in .050 pin tubing.
DRS-161 Genuine DRS Stainless Steel Chassis Tubing
This tubing is the real deal. Bob found this tubing in 1986 and has used it ever since. As used in the “Gunslinger” Tube Chassis!
DRS-189 .050 Stainless Steel Body Tubing 12” Long.
The same tubing as our DRS-146 Pin Tubing. 12” long for you to cut to the length you need. Great for scratch builders.
Rollers
DRS-220 Doorslammer Roller
DRS-SW01 Chassis, DRS Fish Tires, Clear Body Factory Modified, Top Sportsman, Top Gun, Brackets, and Index Classes,
Depends on body and motor. These cars are based on a Doorslammer type car meaning that if it were a full-scale car it would have
opening doors, hood, and rear decklid. We use various body styles. They are built with all top quality components. A real buy for the
money.
DRS-221 Pro-Stock Truck Roller
DRS-SW07 Chassis, DRS Fish Tires, Clear Body These Trucks are great for the popular Truck Classes, Pro-Stock Truck is one
of the more popular classes in Slot Drag Racing.
DRS-222 Alcohol Funny-Car Roller
DRS-SW03 Chassis, DRS Fish Tires, Clear Body A/FC, BB/FC, Brackets, and Index Classes. These cars are based on the ever
popular Funny-Car. They are built with all top quality components. A real buy for the money.
DRS-223 Alcohol Dragster Roller
DRS-79 Chassis, DRS Fish Tires, Clear Body A/D, Brackets, and Index Classes. These cars are based on the “Wedge”
Dragster design. We use the DRS-522 “Wedge” body mounted clear and ready for paint. They are built with all top quality
components. A real buy for the money.
DRS-224 A/Fuel Dragster Roller
Our Scale Appearing SW11 Chassis, DRS Fish Tires, Clear Body A/Fuel Dragster is the most popular Dragster class that is run
at major events. This car is light enough to place ballast in different places on the chassis for fine tuning to your track conditions.
DRS-225 Wing Car Roller
DRS-47 Flash Chassis This car is based on the ever-popular wing car. We use various body styles. They are built with all top
quality components. Use with C-Can Style Motors.
DRS-226 Jr. Dragster Roller
DRS-43 Jr. Dragster Chassis/DRS-512 Jr. Dragster Body. This car is ideal for Brackets, the Jr. Dragster Class, and the Index
classes.
DRS-227 Jr. Funny Car Roller
DRS-67 Jr. Funnycar Chassis DRS Body This car is ideal for Brackets, the Jr. Funny-Car Class, and the Index classes.
GunSlinger RTD’S (ready to drag)
DRS-236 Pro-Factory Modified.
DRS-237 Pro-Top Sportsman
DRS-238 Long Wheelbase Pro-Stock Truck
DRS-239 Pro-Alcohol Funny-Car
DRS-236 Pro-Factory Modified.
Our DRS-SW01 Pro Doorslammer Chassis, DRS Grp.12 Motor, DRS Fish Tires, 13/54 Gears Clear Mounted Body. Factory
Modified is one of the long running favorites classes that is run at major races. Body restrictions the same as Pro-Stock are enforced in
this class. Makes for a very Scale Appearing car.
DRS-237 Pro-Top Sportsman.
Our DRS-SW01 Pro Doorslammer Chassis, DRS Grp.20 Motor, DRS Fish Tires, 13/54 Gears Clear Mounted Body. Top
Sportsman has been run as a class since the mid 80’s. This is the class for the slammer style bodies not legal for Factory Modified.
DRS-238 Long Wheelbase Pro-Stock Truck
Our DRS-SW07 LWB Pro-Truck Chassis, DRS Grp.20 Motor, DRS Fish Tires, 13/54 Gears Clear Mounted Body. This Truck is
for the popular Pro-Stock Truck Class is one of the more popular classes in Slot Drag Racing. It features a scale 120” Wheelbase. It also
has the new DRS 534 ‘99 LWB Extended Cab S-10 Body
DRS-239 Pro-Alcohol Funny-Car.
Our DRS-SW03 Chassis, DRS Grp.20 Motor, DRS Fish Tires, 13/54 Gears Clear Mounted Body. Winner of the 1999
“Winternationals” in A/FC. Makes a great “Gangster” car. Without ballast it weighs about 72 grams.
DRS-240 Pro A/Fuel Dragster.
Our Scale Appearing SW11 Chassis, DRS Grp.20 Motor, DRS Fish Tires, 13/54 Gears Clear Body. A/Fuel Dragster is the most
popular Dragster class that is run at major events. This car is light enough to place ballast in different places on the chassis for fine
tuning to your track conditions.
**Other options are available on “Gunslinger” cars. Chassis Bearings add $25, Motor Bearings add $25, SS Tube Chassis add $25. Call DRS for
Details. These cars are personally built by Bob Herrick.**
Printed Materials
DRS-401 Number 14 Catalog and Technical Guide
Available at www.slotcar.com
Bodies.
We at DRS have done the mold work for most all of the world and national record holding bodies used in drag racing
produced by the other major manufacturers. We have entered into the body market in a big way. One of the finest examples of our line
is our DRS-505 True Scale tm dragster body this is a scale dragster of high quality and scale appearance made for our DRS-33, 34 True
Scale tm dragster chassis but, can also be used for other applications as well. We are developing the bodies now that will be used to
reach the next plateau in performance. We use all the latest developmental tools available but the most important one of all is on the
track, testing done by ourselves. We are pulling our bodies in Genuine General Electric .015" lexan to offer a more durable body that does not
deform as much at high speed and will last a lot longer too. We will do most of our bodies in 1/25th scale whenever possible to assure that
they have as small a frontal area and the most scale appearance available.
DRS-504 Dragbike Shell Fits DRS-25,26
DRS-506 ‘53 Studebaker Body Each
DRS-511 94 Vette Body Fits All F/C Kits
DRS-512 Jr. Dragster Body
DRS-513 94 Firebird Body
DRS-514 Wedge Dragster Body
DRS-516 ‘63 Stingray Body
DRS-517 VW Body Each
DRS-519 94 Chevy Stepside Pickup Drag Body
DRS-521 Jr. Funnycar Body
DRS-522 DRS Wedge Dragster Body
DRS-526 1/24 Monte Carlo Stock Car Body
DRS-528 1/32 Scale 55 Chevy Body
DRS-533 ‘99 Pro-Stock Camaro
DRS-534 ‘99 LWB Pro-Stock S-10 Truck Body
DRS-535 Rear Wing. For Most Drag Bodies *
DRS-536 Camaro F/C Body
DRS-537 Camaro F/C Body, High Down Force.
DRS-538 2002 “True Scale” Drag Body
DRS-539 Cavalier Doorslammer Body
DRS-540 '67 Nova Doorslammer Body
DRS-541 ’77 Vega Doorslammer Body
DRS-542 Cavalier SC Doorslammer Body
DRS-543 Cougar Doorslammer Body
DRS-544 '97 Vette Body
DRS-545 INTERIOR *
DRS-546 '67 Nova No Hood! w/BBC Body
DRS-547 Stealth Body
DRS-548 '41 Willys Body
DRS-549 ’99 Sonoma SWB Pickup Drag Body
DRS-550 ’85 Corvette W/Scoop Drag Body
DRS-551 PT Panel Truck Drag Body
DRS-552 ’57 Chevy Pro-Mod Drag Body
DRS-553 Ext. Cab Dually Pick-up Body
DRS-554 Olds Jr. Funnycar Drag Body
DRS-555 Old Style Mini Cooper 1/32 Scale
DRS-556 2005 Pontiac GTO Drag Body
DRS-557 1968 Dodge Dart Drag Body
DRS-558 Altered Coupe Drag Body
Copyright © 1994 2004 Drag Racing Specialties.
All rights reserved.
Last modified: September 17, 2004
For further information
Contact Bob or Brenda Herrick
Drag Racing Specialties
PO Box 940891
Plano, Texas 75094
USA
http://www.slotcar.com
[email protected]
Phone 972.881.0209
Fax 972.422.7734

DRAG RACING SPECIALTIES

Transcription

Similar documents

Untitled - Revolutions

March - On The Table

Converting a Slot.it Ferrari F40 to run on a SCX

Ritelite-K9-30-LED - Ritelite Portable Lighting

the extra mile. - Jetco Delivery

Give Any Tri-5 Chevy Sports Car Handling!

Driver Profile - motorsportamerica.com

SOLD - Victory Lane

Honda 300ex National Race Machine