winter holiday fall escape getaway

destinations
Snowy
GUIDE
fall | winter 2008
Quebec
FALL ESCAPE
Muskoka
Magic
WINTER
HOLIDAY
Romantic
Jasper
GETAWAY
48 hours in
Vancouver
Fall Escape
Muskoka Magic
Photo: Danson
Our fall ritual is a getaway to
Muskoka’s rugged wilderness,
a couple of hours north of Toronto.
A classic Canadian fall escape.
BY Toby Saltzman
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Photo: Butterill
4
Fall Escape
Photo: Danson
Photo: Deerhurst Resort
Deerhurst Resort
The view from our terrace revealed the promise of our autumn
escape with all the brilliance of an artist’s palette. Red and
orange, yellow and gold, and every imaginable shade of
green brushed together, fringing patches of sparkling blue in
a living canvas only Mother Nature could conceive. Lingering
over steamy café lattes in the crisp morning air, we began
to reminisce about past visits to galleries across Canada that
showcase paintings by the venerable Group of Seven artists
who exquisitely captured the Canadian landscape with bold
colours and impressionistic strokes in the early 1900s. Franklin
Carmichael’s Bay of Islands, its water edged by grey granite
boulders, and Tom Thomson’s Jack Pine, a solitary pine reaching skyward, and his blazing Autumn Birches came to mind as
we imbibed the scenery from our perch at Deerhurst Resort
in Muskoka.
Our fall ritual is a getaway to Muskoka’s rugged wilderness
that rises a couple of hours north of Toronto, where we shed
our urban anxieties amid the glorious fall foliage, golfing,
meandering on woodland trails, and simply relaxing. This
time, Deerhurst Resort beckoned, mainly due to curiosity to
see how the 324-hectare (800-acre) resort—the host site
for the 2010 G8 Summit—would entertain the leaders of the
world’s economic powers.
Driving toward the championship Deerhurst Highlands Golf
Course, we pictured the international delegates circling over
the quintessentially Canadian landscape, snapping photos
of the incredibly blue lakes created by glacial retreats and
pink-grey granite of the Canadian Shield, before landing on
Deerhurst’s private airstrip. We imagined the leaders digress-
ing from meetings, volleying international issues on tennis or
squash courts, matching their mettle (with or without handicaps) on the challenging fairways and bunkers cut into the
terrain, sharing auspicious banter while fishing or canoeing
in nearby Algonquin Park, and at the end of the day, indulging at the spa before a feast laced with maple syrup, and a
performance at the same stage where Shania Twain debuted.
Chuckling, we wondered: would the leaders see Muskoka as
symbolic of Canada’s terrain? Would they buy souvenir
Group of Seven prints?
As we drove our golf cart along the sun-dappled path to the
first tee, the fresh scents of Muskoka—pine and juniper—cast
their magic. Later, as if on cue, a mother deer and her fawn
loped across the fairway to lose themselves in the dense
trees. I didn’t mind chasing my ball when it flew sideways
into a stand of birch trees, their white trunks glistening like
silver amid the radiant flush of red and gold leaves. Stepping
through a crunch of fallen leaves, I wondered if this was the
very site depicted in Tom Thomson’s Birch Grove. After an
exhilarating round—and just missing a hole-in-one that would
have been golf artistry at its best until the ball jerked out of
the hole—we decided to follow one of the fall foliage drives
(listed on www.discovermuskoka.ca) that runs a scenic loop
from Huntsville to Algonquin Provincial Park and back.
Set alongside the Muskoka River, historic Huntsville is a sweet
little town, chock-a-block with cafés, waterfront eateries, and
galleries selling paintings, sculptures, glassworks, and crafts
made by local artisans. To commemorate the Group of Seven,
some of the painters’ works have been reproduced in outdoor
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Fall Escape
Bypassing Muskoka Heritage Place, where families with
youngsters happily waved at us from the steam train
chugging along a centuries-old track, we embarked on a
stunning, 110-km drive through forests resplendent with
maples, aspens, tamaracks, and red oaks, along the way to a
glittering chain of lakes—Vernon, Mary, Fairy, and Peninsula—
where we stopped occasionally to photograph the landscape,
complete with birds or deer nibbling by the water’s edge.
One of Canada’s largest provincial parks—covering 7,725
square kilometres of wild deciduous and coniferous forest
interspersed with lakes, rivers, bogs, cliffs, and beaches—
Algonquin is also one of the country’s important sites for biological and environmental research. It is best explored on foot
or by canoe. Following a marked trail, our excursion became
a perfect commune with nature, with silence broken only by
the lonely sounds of loons and the rat-tat-tat of a woodpecker.
When a rustle of leaves prompted us to turn and see the head
and antlers of a bull moose rising above a thicket of reeds, we
watched, breathless, motionless—for seconds that seemed like
an eternity—until he ambled away.
Back at the resort, I happily settled into Deerhurst’s spa for
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a “signature” massage. Meanwhile, my husband Ken—an
inveterate golfer—couldn’t wait until the next morning, when
we would play Grandview Resort’s Mike O’Meara Course,
just up the road. He ran out to play nine holes at Deerhurst’s
Lakeside Course, which is easier on any golfer’s ego than the
tough Highlands we played earlier that morning. He returned
energized just as I lounged dreamily on the terrace, watching
the sun gild the scenery.
Later that evening, dinner at Steamers (Deerhurst’s “log cabin”
steakhouse) was a sumptuous affair with Niagara wines,
plump scallops, thick filet mignon, and a scrumptious array of
desserts. Walking back to our suite under a star-studded indigo
sky, we reminisced on how our perfect day had started and
ended with nature’s backdrop.
As a romantic twosome inclined to golf and not mass hotel
activities, we didn’t realize how family-oriented the resort
was until we had Sunday brunch in the Eclipse Restaurant.
Overhearing families with youngsters chatter about cycling
and horseback riding plans, we figured: no wonder Condé
Nast Traveler lists Deerhurst as one of the World’s Top 100
Golf Resorts. With two superb golf courses, indoor and outdoor
tennis, squash courts, indoor and outdoor pools, and myriad
on-resort activities, plus thrilling off-resort Muskoka wilderness
adventures, Deerhurst promises plenty to amuse everyone.
Even the world leaders at the 2010 G8 Summit.
Photo: Butterill
murals. In front of the Civic Centre, a bronze statue of Tom
Thomson, who spent years in the environs, bears an inscription that he “defined the Canadian wilderness and captured
the majesty and many colourful moods of Algonquin Park.”
Photo: MacDougall
Severn River
If you go
Deerhurst Resort, 1235
Deerhurst Drive, Huntsville.
1 800 201-1488
1 800 461-4393
deerhurstresort.com
Contact Deerhurst for fall
foliage adventure packages including golf, guided
canoe trips in Algonquin
park, bike tours through the
Buckwallow Cycling Centre’s
25 km of technical trails,
and off-roading in an H1
Hummer powered by biodiesel fuel recycled from the
resort’s kitchen. Other packages include autumn feasts
designed by Executive Chef
Rory Golden and two current
shows: Canada Rocks and
After Hours.
Other area resorts
Fall activities
Delta Grandview Resort,
939 Highway 60.
705 789-4417, 1 877 472-6388
deltagrandview.com
For free maps of fall foliage
driving tours and activities,
visit discovermuskoka.ca
call 1 800 267-9700
or e-mail info@
muskokatourism.ca
Killarney Lodge in
Algonquin Park, Lake of
Two Rivers, Highway 60.
705 633-5551
killarneylodge.com
Getting there
Ontario Northland Railway
runs trains to Huntsville. From
there it’s an easy cab ride to
Deerhurst Resort. Buy
tickets at Toronto’s Union
Station across from
VIA Rail’s counters.
www.ontarionorthland.ca
For Algonquin Provincial
Park information visit
algonquinpark.on.ca
For guided canoeing, hiking,
mountain-biking, horseback
riding, fishing, as well as
winter activities including crosscountry skiing, snowmobiling,
and dogsledding, visit
huntsvilleadventures.ca
The Huntsville Festival of the Arts
continues through December.
huntsvillefestival.on.ca
See what’s on at the Algonquin
Theatre in Huntsville.
algonquintheatre.ca
Bala Cranberry Festival,
October 17-19, is a “crantastic
event” with the tangy treats
served up every imaginable
way amid displays by
local artisans.
balacranberryfestival.on.ca
Muskoka Heritage Place
showcases life in the 1800s
at three venues: Muskoka
Museum; Muskoka Pioneer
Village with 18 original historic buildings and costumed
blacksmiths, candlemakers,
weavers, and farmers; and
the 1926 Portage Flyer Steam
Train, which takes visitors on
fall foliage tours along the
Muskoka River to Fairy Lake.
Two blocks from Huntsville,
88 Brunei Road.
muskokaheritageplace.org
www.ontariotravel.net
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Winter Holiday
Romantic
Jasper
Explore a magical world of ice
and snow in Canada’s Rockies.
by Katharine Fletcher
Just getting to Jasper is romantic. In Vancouver, catch the
overnight Snow Train and, of course, book the Silver &
Blue class Romance by Rail package. A cozy roomette for
two dishes up quintessentially Canadian snow-draped
views of the Cascade Range followed by the Rocky
Mountains... Your world becomes one of quiet contemplation as the mountains weave magic into your soul.
Quite different, isn’t it, to what surveyor-explorer David
Thompson would have experienced while slogging
through these mountains in 1810? And reflecting upon the
challenges workers surmounted while blasting through
daunting terrain somehow makes snuggling into VIA’s
roomette even sweeter.
But the Snow Train isn’t simply about reveries. There is
excellent wildlife watching from the dome, dining, and
lounge cars. As you pass alongside frozen lakes, watch
for moose and wolves. It’s entirely possible that you’ll
glimpse one or both of these wilderness icons en route; if
VIA staff spot any, they’ll make an announcement.
Suites in the log lodge are lovely, but for a particularly
memorable stay, reserve a private cabin tucked into the
evergreen woods.
Although Jasper Park Lodge is all about get-away-fromit-all serenity, it also has its glamorous side—particularly
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Photo: Matthew G. Wheeler
The mood changes when you disembark at Jasper Station.
Unlike Banff’s bold authority, the village of Jasper disarms
with its modesty. Suddenly you realize you’re stepping
into a fiercely cherished, authentic Western Canadian
mountain village in Jasper National Park. Exploration will
come later—for now, catch a cab, destination: Fairmont’s
Jasper Park Lodge.
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But forget fame! Athabaska Cottage is far cozier. Here, forest
views offer intimacy, where you can breathe in the scent of fir,
indulge in a whirlpool bath, then snuggle in privacy in front of
a crackling wood fire. For an extra-special touch, invite chefs
into your cabin kitchen to prepare dinner for two.
Of course, true romance isn’t just about R&R. It also embraces
shared activities and mutual wonder as you skate under the
moonlight on Lac Beauvert. Skate-dance beneath a velvet sky
to classical waltzes whose volume is kept unobtrusive but audible so as not to disrupt the mountain mood. Or simply glide
hand-in-hand, watching the moonrise…
Predictably, in Jasper’s winter wonderland, ice and snow
define your experiences. Murray Morgan is owner-operator of
Jasper Adventure Centre, an outfitting company he started in
1991. Inspired by nature, he says, “I love the natural surroundings here and I like to share them with people.”
Not to be missed is his guided tour of Maligne Canyon, the
deepest canyon in Jasper National Park, where bubbly-looking
icicles drip down the chasm walls. After fitting crampons onto
the boots he provides, you’ll follow Morgan, sure-footedly
descending hummocks of water-slicked ice into the canyon’s
glittering world.
It is especially sparkly on a moonlit night. Morgan provides
headlamps to light your descent. Then, after extinguishing
them, moonlight cascades around you, creating shadows
and transforming icicles into twinkling earth-bound stars,
competing with nighttime’s canopy.
Lac Beauvert in winter
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Photo : The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge
if you book Outlook Cabin overlooking Lac Beauvert, where
celebs and royals still come for R&R. Reserve this elegant log
cabin and you’ll indulge in the same luxury as John Travolta,
the Dixie Chicks, Bill Gates, the Rockefellers—not to mention King George VI and Queen Elizabeth in 1939 and Queen
Elizabeth and Prince Philip in May 2005.
Photos: The Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge
Winter Holiday
Edith Cavell restaurant, Jasper Park Lodge
A Jasper Park Lodge view
While exploring, Morgan tells stories… such as how Maligne
(French for “wicked”) got its name. “De Smit was a Jesuit
priest who came through here in the early years. When he got
to the Maligne River, he tried to cross it with his pack train of
horses but the current was strong and washed some of the
equipment and animals away.
“I never tire of this walk because no two are the same,” he
adds. “The canyon is continuously changing, with water
flowing in and out at different points, building up ice dams
and running down another area.”
Morgan offers other trips, too, so you can continue your
exploration of Jasper National Park on snowshoes during halfor full-day excursions. With him, you’ll identify animal tracks
and hear of Jasper’s creation in 1907. It is the largest park in
the UNESCO Rocky Mountain World Heritage Site, designated
in 1984, which includes the contiguous national parks of Banff,
Jasper, Kootenay, and Yoho as well as three provincial parks:
Mount Robson, Mount Assiniboine, and Hamber.
Back at Jasper Park Lodge, a swim or another whirlpool may
be in order before slipping into something elegant for dinner
with elk
at the four-diamond Edith Cavell dining room. Extraordinary
views of Lac Beauvert along with the panoramic spectacle of
Whistlers, Signal and Pyramid mountains and the Colin Range,
make a riveting backdrop to your culinary experience.
True to Fairmont’s eco-friendly goals, Jasper Park Lodge’s executive chefs connected with a farmer near Lethbridge whose
greenhouse supplies them with fresh produce throughout the
winter. Root vegetables are popular sides with game meat
such as boar-bacon wrapped bison tenderloin. Never obtrusive
but attentive staff recommend specials of the day and extravagant desserts such as white chocolate crème brulée or comfort
foods like berry crumble.
Then it’s all about returning to your cabin, boots crunching on
snowy paths while you watch for elk on Lac Beauvert.
A counterpoint is reached by visiting Num-Ti-Jah, in
neighbouring Banff National Park, another renowned but
lesser-known Rocky Mountain lodge that exudes an entirely
different ambiance.
Continue your icy adventures by driving south on the Icefields
Parkway, one of the world’s greatest mountain roadways. It
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Photos: Jasper Chamber of Commerce
Winter Holiday
Ice Explorer on
Athabasca Glacier
Maligne Canyon Icewalk
Snowshoeing at
Maligne Lake
courses alongside the Eastern Main Ranges, the highest and
most rugged mountains of the Canadian Rockies. Completed in
the 1960s, the Parkway connects Jasper to Banff, introducing
modern-day explorers to the Columbia Icefield and the receding Athabaska Glacier. We all know about global warming, so
it is fascinating to take a ride on a snow coach to witness firsthand the extent of this glacier’s retreat: more than
1,500 metres since the late 19th century.
Num-Ti-Jah Lodge overlooks yet another icy formation, Bow
Glacier, the headwaters of Bow Lake and its outflow, the Bow
River, which courses through Calgary. Legend has it that when
famous mountain guide Jimmy Simpson first set eyes on Bow
Lake in 1898, he declared it the prettiest view he’d ever seen
and that someday he would build a home and inn here. He
did, calling the lodge Num-Ti-Jah, a Stoney First Nations’ name
for the pine marten.
Innkeepers Chris and Andrea Hopkins fell in love with it, too.
Recalls Andrea, “I was a bike guide working in the Canadian
Rockies for ten years and we came here on our tours. I always
told guests there wasn’t a more beautiful place in the world to
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wake up in the morning. We’ve spent our anniversary here at
the lodge each year since our marriage in 2004.”
In 2007 they became innkeepers, choosing, like Simpson, to
live amid the mountain majesty. “Romance here is of the nofrills variety,” says Andrea. “Our rooms are basic yet comfortable, but our dining room with the fire blazing and candlelight
is delightful. So romance here is in the great outdoors. People
have to feel it and bring it themselves.”
No problem. To step over Num-Ti-Jah’s threshold is to cross
into a simpler time. The log interior, Simpson’s geology collection, and an elk-and-moose antler chair formerly belonging
to renowned mountain-woman and explorer Mary SchafferWarren eloquently recall Canada’s not-so-distant frontier past.
And Andrea is right: despite the wood fire and cozy armchairs,
here at Num-Ti-Jah romance blossoms outdoors, where mountains, forests, and lake compete for your attention. While
cross-country skiing or snowshoeing on Bow Lake, pause, look,
and listen frequently for sometimes the overwhelming silence
is stunning—and being quiet in nature can reveal surprises…
Pic. Pic. Pic.
The faint, repetitive sound wafts across the lake.
Correctly, you decide it’s far too continuous and rhythmic
to be any woodpecker—but what could it be? Scouring
the azure surface of Bow Glacier with binoculars reveals
the diminutive figures of climbers, picks in hand,
ascending the ice wall.
Ah, yes. Meals... Pre-dinner cocktails are sipped in front
of the fireplace in the library before dinner is served in
Num-Ti-Jah’s Elkhorn Dining Room. Here, chefs present
organic regional produce: genuine Rocky Mountain fare
such as bison, salmon, and Alberta AAA beef.
Romance? Discover the Rockies and open your heart
to discovery.
If you go
ont.com
Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge: fairm
Outings with Murray Morgan:
jasperadventurecentre.com
Num-Ti-Jah: Num-Ti-Jah.com
eld:
Snowcoach tour of Columbia Icefi
.com
columbiaicefield
per;
Jasper National Park: pc.gc.ca/jas
t/304
n/lis
rg/e
UNESCO site: whc.unesco.o
ff
Banff National Park: pc.gc.ca/ban
.ca
Travel British Columbia: travel.bc
Travel Alberta: travelalberta.com
es.com
Jasper Tourism: .jaspercanadianrocki
too: Jasper in January
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Photo: VIA Rail
“Ice-climbing is a dangerous sport. Not really for beginners,” cautions Andrea. Unless you are experienced, she
says, it’s better to watch from afar and, if the climbers
return to Num-Ti-Jah at night, live vicariously through
their excitement as they recall their adventures during
after-dinner drinks.
Romantic journey
Spoil yourself with VIA’s Concierge Service! VIA’s Romance
By Rail package is offered on the company’s world-famous
Canadian train. It operates from Toronto to Vancouver (meaning you can hop on the Snow Train to Jasper from Edmonton)
or, as described here, catch the Snow Train from Vancouver to
Jasper. Honoured as one of the top 25 trains in the world by
the Society of International Railway Travellers, the Canadian
offers VIA Rail’s Silver & Blue class premier-level private or
semi-private sleeping accommodations and dining. You’ll get
a queen-size bed, two private washrooms, complimentary inroom sparkling wine with keepsake glasses and gift basket,
and a bouquet of fresh flowers. In addition, if you want, top
off the romance with breakfast in bed. Of course, Romance
couples can use the Canadian’s signature dome cars, which
give 360-degree panoramic views of the mountain scenery—
the perfect place to enjoy an after-dinner drink beneath a canopy of stars. And that’s not all: the Romance by Rail ticket also
includes your dinner of delicious regional cuisine. Try Alberta
bison rib roast, grilled Arctic char, or stuffed game hen, all
accompanied by award-winning Canadian wines.
Skiers take note: Friday departures from Edmonton and
returns on Sunday afternoons are perfect for a ski weekend at
Marmot Basin. Along with great powder skiing, try dogsledding, ice fishing, snowshoeing, and boarding. skimarmot.com
Reservations: for further information, schedules, and rates
contact VIA Rail Canada at 1 888 VIA Rail (1 888 842-7245)
or visit viarail.ca/packages
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Outdoors
Snowy Quebec City
My country isn’t a country, it’s winter, as the song
goes. And its capital is Quebec City! BY Sylvie Ruel
Quebec has just wrapped up all-out celebrations of its
400th anniversary, and it’s more beautiful than ever. The
city, with its rich history, culture, and heritage—where
past and present come together seamlessly—shone bright
throughout 2008.
With winter on the way, you won’t find Quebec City
hunkering down to hibernate. On the contrary, the city is
gearing up for more big parties, not least the 55th edition
of its famous winter carnival. And its Ice Hotel, the only
one of its kind in North America, will soon welcome guests
from around the world.
Surrounded by stunning forests, snowy mountains, and
vast open spaces, Quebec City is an ideal winter destination for outdoor fun. It absolutely deserves its reputation as
the snow capital of the world!
World’s largest winter carnival
Every February, in the depths of winter, all of Quebec City is
lit up by the 17-day winter festival within its walls. During
the carnival, this small city full of European charm is home
to Bonhomme Carnaval, for whom a massive ice palace
is built at the heart of the festivities. Battlefields Park, a
beloved urban oasis overlooking the St. Lawrence River, is
transformed into an immense playground where revellers
can enjoy sleigh rides, dogsledding, and tobogganing. It’s
also where you’ll find the International Snow Sculpture
Event, a competition featuring sculptors from 25 countries.
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Photo: J.F Bergeron / Enviro Foto
Outdoors
The headline events of this 55th Quebec Winter Carnival,
slated for January 30 to February 15, include a pair of night
parades through the streets of the Lower Town (February 7)
and Upper Town (February 14), and the traditional ice-canoe
races between Quebec and Lévis (February 6 and 8), with 40
crews vying to be the first to cross the partly frozen river. Once
a men-only event, the race now includes women and is part
of a four-race ice canoeing series that also includes La Grande
traversée Casino de Charlevoix at Isle-aux-Coudres (January 30
and 31), the Portneuf Alcoa pack ice race in Portneuf (February
13 and 14), and the massive Défi des Glaces, the final leg,
which also runs between Quebec City and Lévis (March 7).
The world snow capital also has close ties to hockey. Every
year during the carnival, nearly 2,300 11- and 12-year-old
players from 15 countries gather in Quebec for the Quebec
International Pee-Wee Hockey Tournament. It’s one of the
world’s biggest minor hockey tournaments, and it’s been held
here for nearly half a century.
World’s coolest hotel
While the Château Frontenac may be the city’s iconic hotel, in
winter Quebec City is also home to North America’s only ice
hotel. This unusual establishment covers 3,000 square metres
and is built of 15,000 tonnes of snow and 500 tonnes of ice.
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It has 6-metre ceilings and 36 theme rooms and suites to
accommodate the guests who come from all over the world.
Everything in this frosty cathedral is made of ice: furniture,
lighting fixtures, the bar (where you can have well-chilled
vodka in a glass made of ice), the movie room, and of course
the chapel, where lovebirds from all over come to tie the knot
and create unique wedding pictures for posterity.
It’s an internationally acclaimed hotel that turns into a giant
puddle under warm spring sunshine, built on the grounds of
the Duchesnay resort on the shores of Lac Saint-Joseph. While
the hotel’s still standing, all kinds of winter activities can be
enjoyed nearby, including skating, dogsledding, snowmobiling, tobogganing, skiing, and snowshoeing. The grounds boast
150 kilometres of cross-country skiing trails and 20 kilometres
of snowshoeing trails. Those skiers who’d prefer not to bed
down in the chilly confines of the ice hotel can rent a cottage
or spend the night in the cozy inn.
Cross-country skiing
Thanks to its massive snowfalls, the whole region is a
paradise for winter sports. Cross-country and downhill skiers
and snowshoers have their choice of wide-open spaces and
enticing countryside.
Photo: Sévillano L'Imagier
Photo: Luc-Antoine Couturier
Photo: www.xdachez.com
Ice-canoe race
Ice Hotel
The Quebec City region offers North America’s largest network
of cross-country trails and facilities: there are 32 centres within
40 minutes of the city, with 2,000 kilometres of well-maintained
trails through forests, on mountains, and along the river.
You can even go skiing right in the city, particularly in
Battlefields Park, one of the world’s most prestigious urban
parks. Its winter landscapes are enchanting, especially when
the mist rises from the river.
Mont Sainte-Anne’s cross-country centre is Canada’s largest,
with 208 kilometres of groomed trails through both flat and
hilly terrain. The resort also has a few dozen kilometres of
trails for snowshoeing and several heated rest areas deep in
the forest.
As for downhill skiing, there are several excellent hills within
easy reach of the city. Skiers and snowboarders are always
thrilled to be able to take a few runs just 30 minutes from
downtown. Mont Sainte-Anne has 66 runs on three faces, with
river views and a 625-metre vertical drop. Stoneham offers
32 runs on four mountains and a 420-metre vertical, while
Le Relais, in Lac Beauport, has 27 fully lit runs and a
224-metre drop.
Snowshoeing in the woods
Is there anything better than quietly exploring the forest on
snowshoes? The Quebec City region has several superb places
to do just that. Jacques-Cartier Park offers majestic scenery
whose focal point is an immense plateau notched with steep
valleys. It’s a delight to wander among the firs and spruces,
their boughs weighed down by snow, and to see the valleys
crusted with frozen waterfalls. Conditions are ideal for snowshoeing (20 kilometres of trails), cross-country skiing (55 km),
and hiking (11 km) along the Jacques Cartier River.
Deep in the Réserve faunique des Laurentides (a large provincial wildlife reserve), the forested grounds of Camp Mercier
have about 20 kilometres of groomed snowshoeing trails, as
does the Montmorency Forest.
A trek to Sentier des Caps de Charlevoix (at the edge of the
Quebec City region) is sure to leave a lasting impression. The
forest is gorgeous and silent, while cliff-top sections deliver
incredible views of the capes and islands that punctuate the
St. Lawrence River. You can either take a day hike or go for
a trek with overnight stays in log cabins. Sentier des Caps de
Charlevoix connects the Massif de Petite Rivière Saint-François
(known for its excellent downhill skiing) and Réserve de faune
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Photo: Yves Tessier, Tessima
Photo: Jean Sylvain
Dufferin Terrasse slides
de Cap Tourmente, a wildlife reserve with a particularly large
wintertime bird population.
Tobogganing, snowmobiling, dogsledding…
Whether you’re with family or friends, sliding down a snowy
hill is one of winter’s great rejuvenating pleasures. At Village
Vacances Valcartier, a family resort in Saint-Gabriel-deValcartier, there are 42 inner-tube slides and 17 mechanical
lifts, as well as four high-mountain runs that will take your
breath away. The Village also has several skating trails. Or,
back in the city, you can head to the Château Frontenac and
barrel down the long slide set up by the river. A classic!
If the thrill of a high-speed snowmobile ride is what you seek,
you’ll feel right at home in the region. With 1,500 kilometres
of groomed trails running through amazing scenery—through
Portneuf, Saint-Tite des Caps, Quebec City, Île d’Orléans, and
the Jacques Cartier River valley—it’s hard to beat. In the heart
of Réserve faunique des Laurentides are 500 kilometres of
trails augmented with lodging, food, and fuel services. And
if that’s not enough, just across the river is the ChaudièreAppalaches region, with another 2,700 kilometres of trails
maintained by 40 local snowmobiling clubs.
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Want to get in touch with your inner pioneer? Head to Station
touristique Duchesnay, a resort where you can go on an overnight trek including rustic camping, dinner, and breakfast.
There are also two-day and longer treks through majestic
landscapes, where you’ll learn to drive a dogsled. Just ten
minutes from Quebec City’s bridges, Aventure Plein-Air
Inukshuk offers dogsledding packages with traditional meals,
lodging in log-cabin camps, snowshoeing, and even horsedrawn sleigh treks.
There’s also more than enough to satisfy the romantic in you.
Try skating under the stars in Place d’Youville, in the heart of
Old Quebec, across from the famous Capitole. Or how about a
hot-air balloon ride over the city?
And if you simply want to kick back and relax, the city’s Nordic
spas are just the ticket, offering total relaxation with alternating hot and cold treatments. Warm your body in a steam bath
or dry sauna, cool off in an icy waterfall or the river, then rest
up to return to normal. These Nordic spas are located in
charming spots: Zone Spa in Saint-Férréol-les-Neiges,
Le Nordique Spa et Détente in Stoneham-et-Tewsbury,
Tyst Trädgard in Sainte-Catherine-de-la-Jacques-Cartier.
Outdoors
If you go
Quebec Winter Carnival
carnaval.qc.ca
Circuit international
de canot à glace
circuitinternationalcanot
aglace.org
Ice Hotel
hoteldeglace.qc.ca
Station Touristique
de Duchesnay
sepaq.com/duchesnay
Cross-country
skidefondquebec.com
rssfrq.qc.ca
Downhill
fun2ski.com
Parc national de la
Jacques Cartier
sepaq.com/jacquescartier
Réserve faunique
des Laurentides
sepaq.com/laurentides
Sentier des caps
de Charlevoix
sentierdescaps.com
Village Vacances
Valcartier
valcartier.com
Château Frontenac slides
418 829-9898
Snowmobiling
destinationmotoneige.com
Pee-Wee hockey
tournament
tournoipee-wee.qc.ca
Balloon rides
montgolfiereaventure.com
Accommodations
Old Quebec
Soixante & Onze
71 rue St-Pierre, Old Port
of Quebec.
1 888 692-1171
hotel71.ca
Near Mont
Sainte-Anne
Auberge La Camarine
10947 boulevard
Sainte-Anne, Beaupré.
1 800 567-3939
camarine.com
Getting there
Via trains reach
Quebec City and
Ste-Foy every day.
Chalets-village
Mont Sainte-Anne
1 800 461-2030
chalets-village.com
Zone Spa
Hotel Clarendon
57 rue Ste-Anne, Quebec City.
1 888 554-6001
dufour.ca
Le Clos Saint-Louis
69 rue Saint-Louis,
Quebec City.
1 800 461-1311
clossaintlouis.com
Château Bonne entente
3400 Chemin Sainte-Foy,
Quebec City.
1 800 463-4390
chateaubonneentente.com
Portneuf
Auberge La Maison
Deschambault
128 Chemin du Roy,
Deschambault.
418 286-3386
quebecweb.com/
deschambault
Auberge, Station
Touristique Duchesnay
143 route Duchesnay,
Sainte-Catherine-de-laJacques-Cartier.
1 877 511-5885
sepaq.com/duchesnay
Photo: Zone Spa
Quebec City region
information
1 877 783-1608
regiondequebec.com
destinations guide
19
Sea-Tank, Nova
Scotia Museum of
Natural History
20
destinations guide
Photo: Nova Scotia Museum of Natural History
Museums
It’s a Wild, Wild World
A bounty of special holiday events makes winter an ideal
time to include museums in your travel plans. From dinosaurs
to volcanoes, several new exhibits are guaranteed to stir the
imagination of every family member. Here’s what’s happening
in Canada’s museums this season. BY MICHELE PETERSON
Take a dip into coastal culture at the Museum
of Natural History, where you can discover the
natural wonders of Nova Scotia’s land and sea.
Whether you dive into the world of whales or
experience sea life at the tide tank, there are
plenty of underwater mysteries to explore. Then,
learn about winter survival tips, animal tracking,
and snowy footprints during Snug in the Snow
holiday programming. museum.gov.ns.ca
Winnipeg
Some of the world’s largest dinosaur fossils will
be on display at the Manitoba Museum in the
special exhibit Dinosaur Dynasty: Discoveries
in China. During the holiday season, you can
explore how different religions and ethnic
groups celebrate the winter solstice and enjoy
Planetarium shows such as The Alien Who
Stole Christmas. Then, it’s a flashback in time
at Santa’s Village at the nearby Manitoba
Children’s Museum within the Forks National
Historic site. This display of fifteen nurseryrhyme classics was once an annual feature
at the Eaton’s store in downtown Winnipeg
and is cherished by grandparents and
youngsters alike. manitobamuseum.ca and
childrensmuseum.com.
Vancouver
Avid outdoor adventurers will want to head
straight to Sara Stern Search Gallery, one of five
permanent galleries, where your senses will
be your guide through the natural world. Get
your adrenaline kicks by climbing inside a giant
800-year-old western red cedar, crawling through
a real beaver lodge, or peeking inside a hive
buzzing with honeybees. Hop on a bobbing
rainbow-coloured Aquabus in False Creek for a
fun way to visit other family attractions such as
Granville Island and the Vancouver Museum.
scienceworld.ca and theaquabus.com
Photo: Science World British Columbia
Halifax
destinations guide
21
Montreal Insectarium
Photo: Michel Tremblay
Montreal
Canadian Children's Museum
Celebrate the National Historic Site designation of Montreal’s
Botanical Gardens with a visit to the creepy, crawly Insectarium.
The holiday season welcomes Caillou, everyone’s best animated
friend, who will lead an adventurous romp through the ecosystems of the Biodôme. Eager explorers will enjoy learning
about Innu culture and discovering nature’s secrets as they
follow the path of a giant storybook through special play areas.
Costumes and storytelling sessions are highlights of this popular
holiday tradition. museumsnature.ca
National Capital Region
It’s a passport to fun at the Canadian Children’s Museum, where
visitors discover one incredible destination after another. Trek to
a desert pyramid, unload a cargo ship, or experience a bustling
market bazaar in this hands-on world tour. The special holiday
exhibit, Japan and Nature: Spirits of the Seasons, invites you to
picnic under cherry blossoms, go fishing, or help get ready
for New Year’s in a cozy Japanese winter home.
civilization.ca/ mce_ccm/mce_ccme.asp
Photo: Brooklyn Children’s Museum
Ottawa
Walk through a prehistoric forest among seven life-size dinosaurs locked in battle and thrill to the sounds of an erupting
volcano at the newly renovated $2 million Fossil Gallery at the
Canadian Museum of Nature. Stunning 3D animation and eight
learning stations enhance the journey back in time to 50 million
years ago, while the Bird Gallery encourages budding
conservationists to spring into action in the special wild bird
rescue centre. nature.ca
London
Join Canada’s first museum for children as it celebrates 30 years
of hands-on fun and education. Crawl inside a cave, dig for
dinosaurs, or have an Arctic igloo adventure in over three floors
of learning experiences. During the holidays, you’re invited to
celebrate Diwali, Hanukkah, Eid-al-Adha, Christmas, and Kwanzaa
to experience the customs of several cultures. Why not bring
some of your own traditions to share? londonchildrensmuseum.ca
The Canadian Museum of Nature
22
destinations guide
Photo: Martin Lipman
Edmonton
Have you ever longed to ride a bucking bronco? Then saddle
up your horse, don authentic western gear, and get ready to
experience the hardships and joys of a cowboy’s life in Joshua’s
Journey, the Royal Alberta Museum’s new exhibit for the winter season. Other highlights in the galleries of this expansive
nature museum include live native fish, rare Ice Age fossils plus
the opportunity to investigate a mountain cave beneath a real
waterfall. www.royalalbertamuseum.ca
Museums
Toronto
Photo: Royal Ontario Museum, 2008. All rights reserved
Check out the ground-shaking success of the
newest permanent exhibit at Canada’s largest
museum, the Royal Ontario Museum. The Age of
Dinosaurs, located within the strikingly modern
Michael Lee-Chin Crystal, hosts more than 50 prehistoric specimens including 25 crowd-pleasing
faves such as Tyrannosaurus Rex, flying pterodactyls and a huge Albertosaurus dating to 76
million years ago. Touch-screen terminals offer
captivating videos that recreate fossil-hunting
expeditions. www.rom.on.ca
destinations guide
23
Getaway
48 hours in Vancouver
Now is the time for a West Coast getaway—before the world converges
on Vancouver for the 2010 winter Olympics, filling every available bed.
If you’re dropping in for 48 hours, skip the museums and make way for
the great neighbourhoods that reveal the charms of this city nestled
between the sea and the coastal mountains. By Magdaline Boutros
1
If you have the time, take a detour a few streets to the south
to Chinatown, North America’s third largest. The Sun Yat Sen
Gardens are a popular attraction, as are the many bargains to
be had in the area.
As you leave Gastown, pause to take a look at the cruise ships
moored in the port and the impressive masts of Canada Place.
Flag down a taxi and ask to be taken to Stanley Park.
Afternoon: The best way to tour Stanley Park in the fall is to
rent a bicycle. Stanley Park Cycle and Bayshore Bike Rentals
are located on Denman Street, just across from the north park
entrance. Budget about $15 for a half-day rental. Once you’ve
got your bike, it’s off to explore the 400-hectare green space
that is Stanley Park—the continent’s third-largest urban park,
larger even than New York’s Central Park. A 10.5-km loop
bike path along the shoreline allows you to take a tour with
24
destinations guide
all the stops you want. The list of attractions is topped by the
Vancouver Aquarium, which has been especially popular since
the birth of a beluga on June 10. As well as a traditional visit,
a few dollars more gets you the chance to be a trainer for a
day, working up close with otters, sea lions, or belugas. You
can even have a family sleepover at the aquarium! Next stop:
Totem Park, where eight totem poles soar skyward and provide
a powerful reminder of the place’s aboriginal heritage. Back on
your bike, ride to the south side of the park, where things take
a heartbreaking turn: damage caused by the December 2006
wind storm, including the destruction of many centuries-old red
cedars, is still plainly visible.
Evening: After taking a well-earned break, it’s time to check
out Robson Street, Vancouver’s premier commercial strip. Hip
boutiques, cafés, bars, and restaurants keep the street hopping
day and night. My personal favourite is Joe Fortes (777 Thurlow
Street), a true Vancouver institution. This French brasserie-style
seafood restaurant and chophouse has one of the city’s best
fish and seafood menus, with impeccable service to match. For
a great cap to the evening, there are two very good options
nearby. O’Doul’s (1300 Robson Street), where Diana Krall paid
her dues, has live jazz every night, while Joeys (820 Burrard
Street) serves top-notch cocktails in a super-trendy space.
2
nd
day
Morning: On day two, it’s time to take a bridge to the south
shore of False Creek. The Kitsilano neighbourhood, once known
for its many hippies, is now home to outdoor shops and yoga
centres, small health food restaurants, and charming houses.
As you shop on 4th Avenue, it’s worth stopping at Sophie’s
Cosmic Cafe (2095 West 4th Avenue) for a hearty breakfast,
Photo: Vancouver Aquarium/Tourism Vancouver
Morning: There’s no better way to kick off a Vancouver
getaway than a visit to the city’s historic core, Gastown. This
is where “Gassy Jack” Deighton built his saloon, the city’s first
business, in 1867. At the corner of Water and Carrall streets is
a statue of the famous pioneer standing proudly atop a whisky
barrel. Gastown is now a trendy area where history and modern
life mingle along Water Street. Free tours are available in summer (gastown.org/programs). Noteworthy stops include the
spectacular John Fluevog shoe store at 65 Water Street, featuring shoe displays under a majestic glass structure suspended
between two buildings. Then make your way down Water to
the corner of Cambie Street, where you’ll find the world’s first
steam clock. The clock, built in 1977 as part of a neighbourhood
revitalization project, whistles on the hour. A few steps away, at
165 Water Street, is Hill’s Native Art. Drop in to buy a keepsake
or just to marvel at the incredible variety of First Nations
original and reproduction artworks.
Photo: Tourism Vancouver
st
day
Vancouver Aquarium
Photo : Tourism Vancouver, VanDusen Garden
Photo: Tourism Vancouver, Dr. Sun Yat Sen Garden
Harbour Centre
Dr. Sun Yat Sen Garden
Photo: Tourism Vancouver/Dannielle Hayes
Photo: Tourism Vancouver/Dannielle Hayes
Photo: Tourism Vancouver / A. Rios
Gastown steam clock
Totem
Getaway
If you go
John Fluevog
65 Water Street
604 688-6228
Photo: Tourism Vancouver
Hill’s Native Art
165 Water Street
604 685-4249
hillsnativeart.com
or The Naam (2724 West 4th Avenue) for delicious and affordable
vegetarian fare. Next, make your way to Kitsilano Beach, a short
walk toward English Bay. You can stretch out with a good book and
enjoy the views of the snowcapped peaks nearby.
Afternoon: After a good rest, board one of the cute taxi boats
near the Vancouver Maritime Museum, in Vanier Park. Your next
destination is Granville Island, a village-within-a-city on a peninsula
under the Granville Street Bridge, just outside downtown. Once an
industrial district, the island is now home to artists’ studios, craft
shops, theatres, and a large public market where you can sample a
wide variety of local products. One must-taste item before you leave
Vancouver: the famous Indian candy, a.k.a. salmon jerky (twicesmoked salmon glazed with maple syrup), available from several of
the market’s fish stands. Take a walk down Johnston Street to check
out the totem poles-in-progress by students from the Emily Carr
Institute of Art + Design.
Evening: Take a downtown-bound taxi-boat to spend the second
and final evening of your getaway on Davie Street, in the city’s gay
village. It’s often said that Vancouver is becoming a top gourmet destination, and Bin 941 (941 Davie Street) provides some convincing
evidence. This small, high-energy tapas restaurant delivers a memorable culinary experience. My favourites included the bison and the
salmon brandade. If there’s room, ask to be seated on the stools
overlooking the kitchen so you can watch the chefs at work. If you
feel like staying out late, the city’s most happening area, Yaletown,
is only a 15-minute walk away. Afterglow (1079 Mainland Street) is
a lush lounge where you can enjoy your last evening with some of
Vancouver’s most beautiful people.
26
destinations guide
Stanley Park Cycle
768 Denman Street
604 688-0087
stanleyparkcycle.com
Bayshore Bike Rentals
745 Denman Street
604 688-2453
bayshorebikerentals.ca
Joe Fortes
777 Thurlow Street
604 669-1940
joefortes.ca
O’Doul’s
1300 Robson Street
604 661-1400
1 800 663-5491
Sophie’s Cosmic Cafe
2095 4th Avenue
604 732-6810
sophiescosmiccafe.com
The Naam
2724 West Fourth
Avenue
604 738-7151
thenaam.com
Bin 941
941 Davie Street
604 683-1246
bin941.com
Afterglow
1079 Mainland Street
604 602-0835
glowbalgrill.com
Where to stay
Opus Hotel
322 Davie Street
604 642-6787
1 866 642-6787
opushotel.com
Joeys
820 Burrard Street
604 683-5639
joeysmedgrill.com
Getting there
The Canadian arrives and departs Vancouver
three times a week. Visit viarail.ca for fares
and schedules.
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editorial Publisher Richard Beaudry Editor-in-chief Luc Boulanger Translator Matt Sendbuehler Copy Editors Karen Loeb, Matt Sendbuehler
Proofreader Robin Williamson Production Art Director Chantal Levesque advertising Sales Director E. Richard Bélanger Sales Director's Assistant
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ca Printing Imprimeries Transcontinental Published by Les Éditions Gesca ltée, a wholly-owned subsidiary of Gesca ltée. Via destinations Guide is inserted
in all major daily newspapers. Opinions expressed do not necessarily represent those of Via Rail Canada Inc. | Registration and Copyright National Library of
Canada | Bibliothèque nationale du Québec ISSN 1710-369X | All rights reserved. Contents of VIA destinations magazine cannot be reproduced without the
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ON THE COVER
Sentier des caps
Lookout, Charlevoix
Photo: Marc
Archambault
destinations guide
27