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Carmel-by-the-Sea: California Gem for Lux Travelers + their
Dogs
By Starre Vartan, Guest Author
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Carmel-by-the-Sea: California Coast's
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Middle-Earth? No, Carmel-by-the-Sea, where the reigning building style is "fairytale houses," and chain stores
are banned. Photo Credit: ©CarmelCalifornia.com
Why Should You Visit Carmel-by-the-Sea in Northern California?
Culture, Heritage, Festivals
Carmel-by-the-Sea is one of California's vacation gems: a wine-soaked, oceanside arts
Golf, Ski, Bike, Sail, More
village. It is beloved for good reasons:
Ecotourism & Safaris
• It looks like nowhere else; its quirky buildings are called "fairytale houses" (photo
Shopping & Collecting
evidence above)
Blog
• It is very near the golf legend, Pebble Beach
Elite Destinations for Luxury
Travelers
• Carmel-by-the-Sea lives the good life, with charming inns, terrific restaurants,
The Best Luxury Hotels &
Resorts, Every Kind,
Everywhere
• And...this town is one of the dog-friendliest spots in the USA (keep reading!)
Luxury Travel Passions
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Resources
Expert Videos
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Where & What is Carmel-by-the-Sea?
The Midwest
Trail You Have
Heard Of
By David O'Brien
St. Louis Expert
4
No Excuses: A
Guide to Stay
Healthy on Va
3
To-Die-For Vi
the Cayman I
• Carmel-by-the-Sea is the one-mile-square
historic downtown of the larger Carmel
• Set on the Monterey Peninsula, it's easy to
get to by air...
• Or via the magnificent Pacific Coast
Highway (PCH) from San Francisco (two and
a half hours) or LA (around six)
By Robert Curley
Caribbean Trave
Compare Rates at up to 70% Off!
trivago: The Hotel Search
www.trivago.com/Boston
Choose your hotel preferences One
search to get the best hotel!
The Wonderful Weirdness of Carmel-bythe-Sea
2
Germany's W
Museums
By Erin Porter
Germany Travel
This town is one-of-a-kind, and proudly
preserves its identity: wonderfully weird.
• Its fantasy cottages and mansions have
names instead of addresses
• Carmel
• Secret passageways and hidden
• Beach Vacations
courtyards abound, for an Alice in
• California Vacations
Wonderland feeling
• Golf Vacations
• Downtown has no traffic lights, and a
• Luxury Vacations
longstanding ban on high heels
• Also banned: chain stores and restaurants;
1
This Gargantu
Stuffed Bunny
Looms Over
Piedmont, Ita
By Robert Schra
Weird and Amaz
Expert
VIEW MORE IN TRAVEL
this place has original, unique character
Find Out More
• Carmel Tourism Site
• Facebook
• Twitter
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Extreme Dog-Friendliness of Carmel-bythe-Sea
TRAVEL VIDEO
Walt Disney W
Food & Bever
Walt Disney W
Wild Africa Tr
Disney's Mos
Unique Room
This is a Golden Age for dogs in Carmel-by-the-Sea. Photo Credit: CarmelCalifornia.com
Carmel-by-the-Sea's Tail-Wagging Friendliness
This town has totally gone to the dogs.
No joke: this is one of the most pooch-welcoming towns in already canine-besotted
Northern California.
• Around two dozen hotels are dog-friendly, with all the perks (including bed turndown
service)
• Not only the hotels, but many restaurants and shops too, invite dogs inside
• Communal canine water bowls and complimentary treats are ubiquitous, as well as
biodegradable scoop bags
• Dogs can run free on the beach and in Mission Trails Park
Carmel-by-the-Sea's Canine Community
• You'll see all sorts of dogs here: from high-stepping miniature breeds to big-boned
black and golden dogs to lovable mutts
• The classic Carmel canine is a Standard Poodle; they're everywhere, and not
ridiculously coiffed
• There's even an annual Poodle Day
VIEW MORE
• Resident pooches are generally well-socialized, polite, and friendly
• Local and visiting dogs are expected to behave and to respond to voice commands
• Your loyal friend must be kept on-leash in town
Duds for Dapper Dogs
Here, dogs dress to impress.
• Brightly hued cotton bandanas are all the rage
• Accessory color coordination between owner and pet: you'll see that, too
Dogs Are Special People Here
Visitors are treated very well in Carmel-by-the-Sea. Especially those with wagging tails.
Your poodle, pug, pointer, Pomeranian, Pekingese, or Min Pin can relish:
• Doggie massage
• Surfing lessons
• Menu items in restaurants, like bark-a-burgers and chicken stew
Carmel-by-the-Sea Travel Tips
• Don't hesitate to visit with your dog
• And bring extra treats for your best friend's new friends
• And do not miss the daily yappy hour at the Cypress Inn, a Carmel tradition
• But hold off on visiting with a puppy whose inoculations are incomplete
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Carmel Beach: Wild and Well-Loved
A bewitching "magic hour" moment at Carmel Beach. Photo Credit: CarmelCalifornia.com
Where Life's a Beach
Carmel-by-the-Sea locals take the name of their town seriously; for many residents,
beachtime is part of daily life.
• Parking is free
• And you can walk (or cycle or skateboard) right from town
Things you can do on the beach here:
• Walk, run, or laze on the fine white sand
• Unleash your dog (OK to do)
• Surf and boogie-board
• Picnic with wine on the sand (a Carmel tradition)
• Light and tend a bonfire
• Enjoy the epic Pacific sunset
Nature Puts on a Show
This is one of California's most spectacular beaches.
• Rocky bluffs stand sentinel, and Monterey Pine trees along the bluffs frame a pictureperfect backdrop
• This sheltered beach is protected from high winds by the Monterey headlands and
Pebble Beach Golf Course
Wet, Wild, and Protected
The beach abuts the Monterey Bay National Marine Sanctuary, and is scrupulously
protected.
• Tidepools and kelp forests along the south end provide home and food for many
animals
• Often spotted: otters, dolphins, migrating humpback whales
Find Out More
• Carmel Beach info page
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Carmel-by-the-Sea's Beloved Cypress Inn,
Founded by a Star
Carmel-by-the-Sea's Cypress Inn, owned by Doris Day. Photo Credit: ©Cypress Inn
Cypress Inn: Carmel-by-the-Sea's Hotel Name to Drop
Some Carmel-by-the-Sea repeat visitors wouldn't think of staying anywhere but Cypress
Inn, which opened in 1929 in the heart of the village. The inn has a lot going for it:
• Glamorous Mediterranean palazzo style
• And a great in-house bar and restaurant and bar
• And vintage movie posters
• And a celebrity pedigree...
Cypress Inn: a Different Kind of Day's Inn
Since 1981, the inn has been owned by Doris Day, a Hollywood superstar singer and
actress who became an animal activist.
• Vintage movie posters from her Hollywood hits decorate the inn
• Terry’s Restaurant & Lounge in-house is named for Day's son; it serves complimentary
breakfast to guests
• The inn is lovingly dog-friendly, with on-the-house touches like pet bowls and blankets,
yappy hours, group walks, and more
• Non-canine pets are welcome, too (a recent guest checked in with a miniature horse)
Rooms at Cypress Inn
You can expect lovely, vintage-style rooms, each one different
• Possible features: ocean view, fireplace, private entrance, veranda
• The overall feeling of the rooms is classic elegance with a touch of drama
• My pick at Cypress Inn: the stunning Queen Tower Suite, with ocean and sunset views
Eco-Consciousness at Cypress Inn
The inn is earth-friendly and healthy to stay in.
• It offers filtered water in refillable glass bottles (not wasteful plastic)
• And low-toxin cleansers, much kinder to your lungs than the usual
• Its chemical-free amenities are American-made by Gilchrist & Soames
Perks at Cypress Inn
• Free wifi
• Complimentary fruit, snacks, and old-fashioned cream sherry
Find Out More
• Cypress Inn
• Terry’s Restaurant and Lounge
• See what makes a hotel pet-friendly, not faux-friendly
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Beguiling B&Bs and Boutique Hotels in
Carmel-by-the-Sea
The Green Lantern is so cozy, it reminded me of my grandma's house. Photo Credit: ©Starre Vartan
Where Else to Stay in Carmel-by-the-Sea
Carmel-by-the-Sea accommodations are diverse, especially for such such a small place.
You can find just your kind of vacation digs here, at a range of budgets.
Here are some Carmel inns that I checked out and stand behind. Each one is a friendly,
intimate boutique hotel, which fits the village ambiance.
The Green Lantern Has a Warm, Grandma’s-House Vibe
This B&B is just up the hill from the ocean; you can hear the waves from most rooms
• Yet it's a three-minute walk from the main part of town
• Lodgings are a collection of rooms and cottages in a garden setting
• Breakfast is fresh and healthful: lots of fresh fruit and housemade frittatas made to order
(and good coffee)
• The Green Lantern
The Tally-Ho Inn Has a British Manor Mood
• It has that country-proper English style
• And lovely patios galore to relax on
• Rooms have picture-perfect views of Carmel Bueach
• Tally-Ho website
L’Auberge Carmel: Relais & Châteaux Luxury
• You know the Relais & Chateaux brand: reliably upscale
• With an outstanding restaurant and chef, like Aubergine here
• With just 20 rooms, L'Auberge Carmel is intimate
• Here on Luxury Travel, more on the Relais & Chateaux brand
• L’Auberge Carmel and Aubergine
Happy Landing Inn: Home Sweet Home
• If you like homey hotels, this is the one for you
• It has only seven rooms, all welcoming dogs
• And there's a sociable, cozy Great Room
• Happy Landing
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Dining in Carmel-by-the-Sea: Diverse and
Delicious
Casanova restaurant is named for that legendary playboy, and its mood is sociable and festive. Photo Credit:
©Starre Vartan
Dining in Carmel-by-the-Sea: Foodie Heaven
Carmel is paradise for foodies (and oenophiles).
• This is a dining mecca, with great ingredients, wines, chefs, servers, bartenders
• Carmel prides itself on making its own foodstuffs: chocolate, honey, sea salt
Carmel houses over 60 restaurants, all in the village downtown's one square mile.
• There are numerous fine-dining options, especially French and Italian
• Casual cafés, pizzerias, and bakeries are just as good
• Asian and Pacific Rim cuisine is especially creative here
What You'll Sip on in Carmel-by-the-Sea
• Carmel-by-the-Sea lures wine-lovers with its 15 wine-tasting rooms
• And intriguing, California-centric wine lists in restaurants
• Local wineries specialize in blends of grapes from the nearby Santa Lucia Highlands
• You won’t have to worry about an imperfectly mixed cocktail in this town
Where to Feast in Carmel-by-the-Sea
Casanova Restaurant is not a red-sauce Italian, but an eatery with a unique mood and
menu.
• Its Mediterranean décor is swoon-worthy, with a different palette and mood in each of
its several cozy dining rooms
• Everyone orders the restaurant's cult dish, gnocchi Casanova: potato-free, light, and
cheesy
• Casanova
Little Napoli, a casual lunch or dinner spot, plates all your favorites from the Boot.
• A mozzarella bar offers different styles and textures
• Arancini Risotto Lollipops -- deep-fried rice balls on a stick -- are a fun way to start a
meal
• There’s plenty of pasta, pizza, and Italian soups too
• The wine list is so much better than it has to be
• Little Napoli
Flying Fish Grill cooks the Golden State's signature cuisine, Asian-California fusion.
• Can't decide? Order the local Dungeness crab tower with ample crabmeat, avocado,
sushi rice, and savory cooked seaweed
• Everyone at my table wanted to taste my grilled Alaskan Black Cod with leeks and
papaya salsa
• Flying Fish Grill
L’Escargot is a country-French bistro.
• It aces the dish it's named for: snails, done properly with butter and garlic
• The French onion soup is a successful balancing act of broth, Gruyere, and baguette
• Rabbit fricassee is a longstanding specialty
• L’Escargot
Terry’s Restaurant & Lounge in Cypress Inn has good, inexpensive pub grub and some
of the best cocktails in town
• These concoctions are classics enjoyed by Old Hollywood
• Try the gin-based Aviation, exotic with crème de violette
• Terry's serves English-style afternoon tea in the Day Room (where you can enjoy the
movies of Terry's mom, Doris Day, with your scone and marmalade)
• Terry's Lounge, an indoor-outdoor hang, features live acoustic and jazz musicians nearly
every night
• Terry’s Restaurant & Lounge
La Bicyclette is a local go-to for light fare.
• It serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner
• The menu changes daily to reflect market-fresh ingredients
• A Carmel must-eat: the house's thin-crust, wood-oven pizza with creative topping
combos (like roasted butternut squash)
• A.M. must: eggs baked in the wood-fired oven menu
• La Bicyclette
Carmel Coffee House has more than good java.
• It beckons with a gorgeous Mediterranean-style courtyard and free wifi
• Carmel Coffee House
The Carmel Bakery has been a local favorite since 1906.
• It bakes classic, timeless pastries, cookies, cakes, and more
• And also house specialties (like giant Bavarian pretzels)
• Plus, you can dine in on a nice light meal: soups, salads, sandwiches
• The Carmel Bakery
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Carmel Food Tour Lets You Taste It All
Carmel Food Tour's Stacie Beck Giovino at La Bicyclette. Photo Credit: ©Starre Vartan
Carmel Food Tour Lets You Taste (Almost) the Whole Town
There’s so much good food in Carmel-by-the-Sea, even an organized foodie can get
overwhelmed. The Carmel-by-the-Sea Downtown Food Tour does the work. You do the
eating.
• Owner and guide Staci Beck Giovino gets you to all the good stuff
• It's rated by TripAdvisor as the #1 Thing to Do in Carmel
• And is modestly priced
A Three-Hour Tour
Over the course of three munchie hours, Stacie introduces you to a range of Carmel-bythe-Sea eateries and specialty shops.
Don't plan lunch that day; this is it.
• You'll sample dishes or tastes at each venue
• And it will add up to an ample midday meal
Where and What You'll Taste: Some Highlights
• Wine and an artistic appetizer begin your meal
• At Casanova, check out the house-made, melt-in-your-mouth gnocchi
• La Bicyclette offers you wood-fired pizza with hyper-seasonal toppings like wild
mushrooms or roasted cauliflower
• At Cypress Inn: a mini-cocktail and choice of small plate
• Dessert is included: locally made caramel-filled chocolates
Doing the Food Tour Right
My advice: take this tour on your first day in town.
• You'll hear local lore, get your bearings, and know where you'll want to return for dinner
during your stay
• Carmel Food Tour
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Pebble Beach Golf
The sixth hole at the fabled Pebble Beach Golf Course. Photo Credit: ©Bernard Gagnon/Wikimedia Commons
Pebble Beach Golf and Resorts
Pebble Beach: say the name, and you'll get any golfer's full attention. It's a reigning
legend of golf.
• It's only 2 ½ miles from Carmel-by-the-Sea
• And to get there, you take the scenic 17 Mile Drive
Greens of Dreams: The Pebble Beach Links
The Pebble Beach Links is the most famous of the courses in the area, built in 1919.
• The PGA and Champions tours touch down every year at Pebble Beach
• This famously photogenic course hugs the coastline
• Players enjoy unobstructed views of Carmel Bay and the Pacific Ocean from some
holes
• It's a public course, but greens fees are steep
• Golf Magazine ranks it #1 America’s 100 Best Public Courses
• See a Pebble Beach photo gallery from About's Golf Expert
More Links to Lust For
Other golf courses in Pebble Beach are varied in landscape.
• The Links at Spanish Bay are Scottish-style -- wild -- and shelter much wildlife
• Spyglass Hill Golf Course is considered one of the toughest in the world
• Del Monte Golf Course, founded in 1897, is the country's oldest golf course west of the
Mississippi
• The Peter Hay Golf Course is a 9-hole course that welcomes novices
Staying in Pebble Beach
You can stay in the village of Pebble Beach at three different accommodations that
comprise Pebble Beach Resorts.
• The Lodge at Pebble Beach is vintage luxury property right on the ocean
• The more modern Inn at Spanish Head overlooks the greens of The Links at Spanish
Bay
• With just 24 rooms and suites, Casa Palermo at Pebble Beach is a boutique hotel that
resembles a Mediterranean estate
Find Out More
• Pebble Beach Golf
• Party of the year, every August: Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance, world's most
deluxe classic car show
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Clint Eastwood: Short-Term Mayor, Longlasting Local Impact
Clint Eastwood as the star of "Rawhide," a TV sries that ran from 1959 to 1965. Photo Credit: Wikimedia
Commons/Public Domain
A Hollywood Actor Was President, & Clint Eastwood Mayor of Carmelby-the-Sea
Hollywood heavyweight Clint Eastwood is a longtime resident of Carmel-by-the-Sea. He
was the village's mayor for two years during the second term of Ronald Reagan (also a
politically-minded Hollywood star). Mayor Eastwood's presence lingers throughout
Carmel.
How "Dirty Harry" Got to Be Mayor of Carmel-by-the-Sea
Always politically engaged, citizen Eastwood got fed up with local regulations and ran for
mayor in 1986.
• He kept his campaign local, eschewing national media
• He was elected mayor with 72% of the vote
• He continued his movie career throughout his term
• He served one two-year term
Clint Eastwood's Mayoral Legacy
Eastwood was a busy mayor.
• He says he is most proud of building the children’s annex at the library
Mayor Eastwood Saved Mission Ranch (and its History, Beauty, & Jazz)
One of his most significant mayoral acts was protecting Mission Ranch (and its
environment) from condo developers
• This 22-acre property is within a mile of downtown Carmel-by-the-Sea
• It was one of California's first dairy farms
• The patio's view: the Pacific, sheep grazing on pastures, the Santa Lucia Mountains
beyond
• Eastwood renovated the ranch building and converted it to a 31-room resort with a
fitness and tennis club
Mission Ranch: Where Clint Tickles the Keys
The restaurant has a piano bar, where an occasional presence is none other than the
jazz-loving owner.
• Eastwood sometimes tickles the ivories
• He directed Bird, a 1988 film about bebop martyr Charlie Parker
• Mission Ranch Carmel Restaurant
Find Out More
• Clint Eastwood and his mayoralty
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Carmel-by-the-Sea Downtown Walking
Tour: What an Interesting Town!
One of Carmel-by-the-Sea's many treasures: Hawk Tower and Tor House, hand-built by poet Robinson Jeffers
100 years ago. Photo Credit: ©CarmelCalifornia.com
Carmel-by-the-Sea Downtown Walking Tour: The Most Interesting
Town History Ever
There’s so much history here, and so many famous people who have made this town
home. This enjoyable tour is the best way to learn about Carmel-by-the-Sea's unique and
impressive past.
Carmel Walks is the brainchild of knowledgeable (and funny!) Gael Gallagher.
• It’s a (leisurely) two-hour walk that shows you what you'd never see on your own
• You'll learn why Carmel-by-the-Sea was built in such eccentric style
• You’ll hear about prominent residents past and present) who loved this town
• Spoiler: entertainers Doris Day, Betty White, Phyllis Diller, photographers Edward
Weston and Ansel Adams, Mayor Eastwood
Carmel Was Already the Place to Be 100 Years Ago
On this tour, you'll hear about Carmel's feminist and artistic prominence.
• Its development was sparked in the very early 1900s by Abbie Jane Hunter, founder of
the San Francisco-based Women's Real Estate Investment Company
• After the 1906 San Francisco earthquake, artists, actors, and writers moved to Carmel
and joined the Carmel Arts and Crafts Club
• They included Jack London and Sinclair Lewis
• For decades, Carmel became a center for the high arts; it still boasts festivals for
Shakespeare and Bach
Funnest Fact
High heels were outlawed in Carmel -- and the regulation is still on the books.
• On the tour, you'll find out why stilettos were no-nos
• And you'll stop by Town Hall to get your own license to wear killer heels
Tips for Tours
• Do this tour the day you arrive; you'll get the lay of the land, feel like an insider, and get
more out of your visit
• Carmel Walks
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Carmel Wine Walk and Tasting Rooms
A bouquet of rosé at Caraccioli Cellars, a stop on Carmel's wine walk. Photo Credit: ©Starre Vartan
Carmel Wine Walk-by-the-Sea and Tasting Rooms
Carmel’s wine scene is compact enough to discover completely -- and sophisticated
enough to please oenophiles.
The Wine Walk Passport -- a tasting-room pass -- allows you to explore the breadth
and variety of Carmel's tasting rooms.
• It's a great deal
• You do it on your own, at your own pace; it's not an organized group tour
What You Get with The Wine Walk Passport
You get to visit all 14 tasting rooms within the one square mile that makes up Carmel-bythe-Sea.
• You can enjoy up to four pours at each one
• The passport doesn’t expire; you can use it up in one weekend, or use it up on a later
visit
What Carmel Tasting Rooms Are Like
Every tasting room in Carmel-by-the-Sea is distinct in décor and vibe.
• But all have extremely well-trained (and remarkably friendly!) pourers
De Tierra Winery is a standout.
• Its tasting room is welcominf and laid-back
• It is seriously committed to sustainability
• De Tierra Tasting Room
Caracciolli Cellars’ elegant tasting room is worth lingering in.
• It's ideal for a romantic tasting for two
• Caracciolli Cellars
Figge Cellars’ tasting room is set in a gallery.
• You can wander among fab sculptures as you sip
• Figge Cellars
Scheid Vineyards’ tasting room is indoor-outdoor and inviting.
• It's perfect for afternoon tastings
• Scheid Vineyards
Trio Carmel offers up a variety of small-batch estate wines.
• And small-batch olive oils and vinegars
• Trio Carmel
Wrath Wines' tasting room is temptingly set beside Carmel’s cheese shop.
• So buy some excellent Brie to pair with Wrath's renowned bubbly
• Wrath Wines
Tip for Wine Passport Holders
• Most tasting rooms aren’t open late, so the action is in the afternoon or before dinner
• Don’t forget to tip your wine pourer (grats are not included with your passport)
• Wine Walk
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The Monterey Bay Aquarium: See What’s
Beneath the Waves
Monterey Bay Aquarium shows you what our planet is like in the oceans' depths. Photo Credit: ©Starre Vartan
The Monterey Bay Aquarium: See What’s Beneath the Waves
Monterey Peninsula is renowned for its exquisite natural setting. The world-class
Monterey Bay Aquarium shows you who lives off the coast you’ve been admiring.
• The Aquarium is only a 15-minute ride from Carmel
• The aquarium is a leader in responsible fishing and marine conservation
• Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch has become Americans' guide to helping fish
to survive, by not eating the endangered species
• You can get Seafood Watch's handy wallet card while you're there, or get and use the
free phone app
Visiting the the Monterey Bay Aquarium
The Aquarium’s exhibits are so well-done, they're of interest to adults as well as kids.
• Of course, you'll gaze at giant tanks of fish, sea turtles, and sharks
• You can also meet Makana, a giant albatross seabird, in person
• Educators at the Aquarium answer questions in a way that makes you want to ask more
• The cool, dark, artful jellyfish exhibit (shown above) is absolutely hypnotic
Feeding Time for Animals at the Aquarium
Mealtime is a high point of an aquarium visit.
• You can watch divers feed sharks in a kelp forest (Carmel Bay's unique ecosystem)
• Otter feedings are also fun to witness it's always playtime for these rescued animals
• Kids love the penguin feedings too
Feeding Time for Visitors at the Aquarium
The Café is the place for lunch or a snack at the Aquarium.
• The Café features food grown in the Monterey Bay and Central Valley
• There’s a separate coffee bar too
Cindy’s Restaurant at the Monterey Bay Aquarium
• This eatery offers dazzling views of the Bay
• And local, seasonal seafood
• Who's Cindy?
The well-known, James Beard Award-honored Chef Cindy Pawlcyn
Find Out More
• Monterey Bay Aquarium
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