knowyoursaddle - Nylon Horse Tack and Saddles

KNOWYOURSADDLE
Differences in trees:
Rawhide Covered: The traditional tree style,
constructed of wood and covered with rawhide.
Used for any purpose, the tree is extremely
durable and slightly flexible, allowing shock
absorption and the ability to withstand hard work.
Ralide®: Molded from polyethylene, Ralide®
trees have great tensile strength and are light
weight. Used for almost every riding purpose,
except heavy roping. They are constructed in one
solid piece, with a rugged, unitized body and a
consistent uniform shape. No separate ground
seats, horns, cantles or joints to work loose.
Will not split, mildew or rot like a traditional tree.
Flex Tree: Designed with a rigid cantle,
fork, and tree bars made from flexible
or synthetic materials. The tree moves
with the horse giving close contact
and is light weight. Flex trees eliminate
pressure points caused by traditional
saddles, enhancing the
horse’s performance.
Equi-Tex/Armor Tex Tree: Constructed
of wood with a fork cantle and
wood bars. The tree is covered in
a polyurethane coating to prevent
moisture absorption and provide
extra strength and durability.
Fiberglass Covered: Constructed of wood and
covered with fiberglass makes it strong, durable,
and decreases the weight of the tree. Used for
almost any saddle type, except heavy
roping styles.
This document is a printer friendly version of
the Saddle Talk booklet available online at:
www.actioncompany.com
1
///// TYPES OF SADDLES
Reining Saddle: Made with a low horn so
less interference occurs from the rider’s
hands or reins. A flatter seat allows the
rider easier hip movement and close
contact skirts enables better horserider cue communication.
Barrel Racing Saddle: Designed with a
deeper seat and wide swells allowing the
rider to stay put during hard turns and
fast sprints. A taller horn makes it easier
to hold on during turns with the proper
seats, the rider has stability and control.
Differences: Flat seat, short horn, close
contact to skirt.
Perfect For: Fast/slow circling, 360o
spins, and fast sliding stops.
Differences: Rounded skirt, light weight,
tall horn, taller cantle.
Perfect For: Fast sharp turns.
Roping Saddle: Features a bullhide
covered tree, low rounded fork and
taller, thicker horn. A lower cantle aids
in easier dismount.
Cutting Saddle: Designed with a flat seat
and wide swells making it easier for the
rider to stay centered during sharp stops
and turns while working livestock.
Differences: Flat seat, wide swells and
tall horn.
Perfect For: Working livestock.
Differences: Reinforced rigging, heavier
saddle, tall-thick horn.
Perfect For: Securing a rope and quick
dismount.
Trail Saddle: Light weight with a deep
padded seat, designed for maximum
comfort for horse and rider allowing a
more enjoyable trail ride.
Show Saddle: Based on other western
designs, but is characterized by ornate
tooling and silver decoration. A deep
padded seat helps the rider achieve
proper posture in the arena.
Differences: Padded seats, wider stirrups
and light weight.
Perfect For: Long and slow trail rides.
Differences: Deep padded seat,
elaborate tooling and silver
trim, short horn and close
contact skirt.
Perfect For: Competitions or parades.
Gaited Saddle: Provide freedom of
horse’s shoulders while performing
high-stepping movements. Shorter
saddle tree minimizes shoulder and
hind leg interference.
Endurance Saddle: Constructed with a
comfortable seat for long rides. Small,
light weight, and often without a horn,
with a tree that spreads out the rider’s
weight over the horse’s back. Often built
with centerfire rigging to keep the saddle
from tipping.
Differences: Shorter skirt, higher gullet,
saddle sits rider further
back allowing the horse access to achieve their
natural gait easily.
Perfect For: Gaited horses.
Differences: Small, light weight, many
strings for attaching gear.
Perfect For: Long rides at faster speeds.
///// TIPS FOR YOUR INVESTMENT
To protect your saddle and prolong its life, simple care is required. A rack to set the saddle on when not in use is a necessity. The
rack lets the stirrup leathers hang correctly, allowing air to circulate under the skirts and dry out the lining. If the saddle gets wet, the
rack allows it to dry out with all parts shaped and hanging properly.
- Never store saddles in plastic or other non-porous covers.
- Allow a wet or damp saddle to air-dry away from heat or
the sun.
- Protect the saddle from excessive humidity.
- DO NOT use waxes, silicone or other substances that impair the
ability of the leather to breathe.
- Never use household chemicals to clean leather.
- Avoid leather preparations that contain alcohol, turpentine or
mineral spirits.
- Do not use mink oil or other animal fats which can darken
leather. Animal fat products can turn rancid, causing the
stitching and leather to rot.
- Use a stiff bristle brush on suede or rough out seats, DO NOT
use saddle soap on suede.
This document is a printer friendly version of
the Saddle Talk booklet available online at:
www.actioncompany.com
2
///// ULTIMATE RIGGING GUIDE
Rigging are the dees or slots that attach the cinch strap to the saddle to hold it in place.
Rigging postitions:
On tree, with conventional metal dees is
the most popular method of saddle rigging.
It places the bulk of the cinch strap under
the rider’s leg and offers the most strength
and greatest durability.
When referring to the positioning of the dees,
there are four different alternatives. The front
dee can be located from just behind the swells
(full) to behind the stirrups (centerfire).
The positions in between are referred to
as fractionals (7/8 or 3/4).
SINGLE OR DOUBLE
Inskirt rigging is built directly onto the
saddle skirt for extra security. There is
no extra bulk under the rider’s legs and
lies closer to the horse’s back preventing
rolling as well as providing a closer contact.
RIGGING TYPE
Rigging types:
Single rigging does not involve the use of
a back cinch. Instead, the rigging hugs the
saddle toward a center point.
Double rigging offers an additional place
for attachment of a back cinch which is
especially necessary when roping or other
activities like steep trail riding which may
cause the saddle to tip or slide.
Advantages of each rigging:
INSKIRT RIGGING
- Eliminates the bulk of the rigging
from under the rider’s legs, giving
closer contact.
- Gives you more surface area to grip
the horse’s back.
- Does not require the cinch to be as
tight as a conventional rig.
CONVENTIONAL RIGGING
- Creates less bulk and does not
interfere with the swing of
the stirrups.
- Ties the tree directly to the horse
for strength.
In full position, the saddle and rider
are placed over the horse’s center of gravity;
making it a good choice for saddle-stressing
events such as roping or cutting.
The 7/8 position, the cinch is set 1 inch further
back, thus allowing the horse to have more
elbow room and lack of interference with
motion. Reiners, trail riders and barrel racers
prefer this rigging setting.
In the 3/4 position, cinch is 1-1/2 inches back
from 7/8 position, anchoring to the distribution
of the rider’s weight in the saddle, preventing
it from sliding forward. It’s regarded as optimal
positioning for high-action turns, runs and stops
when working livestock or contending with
extremely steep terrain when trail riding.
FULL
POSITION
7/8
POSITION
3/4
POSITION
The 3-way rig plate sets into each of the front skirts in the same manner as the
conventional rig in-skirt and offers the same advantages, such as better leg control
of horse, less roll, etc. The 3-way rig plate, however, has two slots and depending
upon the tie strap configuration you create any one of three different rigs styles. In
effect, you enjoy the advantages of the 3 different rigs all in ONE saddle.
The centerfire position places the cinch in the
middle of the horse’s body and pulls from the
center of the seat. A wider cinch (6-8 inches) is
required to keep the saddle in place. Endurance
saddles are usually equipped with centerfire
rigging because horses need full range of their
elbow during competition.
This document is a printer friendly version of
the Saddle Talk booklet available online at:
www.actioncompany.com
3
Proper stirrup lenths:
Cleaning & care:
Correct stirrup positioning is crucial to riding safely, having proper
control over the horse and keeping balanced form. If you are
consistently getting pinched, knees knocking against the knee roll, or
dropping your heel to get your knee in the right spot, then your stirrups
are too short. If you are pointing your toes to stay in the stirrup, if your
foot is consistently falling out, then your stirrups are too long.
Washing and oiling is the first step
in proper saddle care. A good rule to
follow is clean the saddle twice a year.
Naturally, a saddle used constantly
requires attention more often than
one that is used sporadically.
Stirrup to Armpit
Standing next to the fender of your saddle, use your
forearm and place your hand to the stirrup bar. The
bottom of the stirrup should end at your armpit.
Adjustment might be needed after mounting.
Stirrup to Ankle
Once you are on your horse, put your leg straight
down. The bottom of the stirrup should be even
with your anklebone. Have a friend help judge
proper distance.
how to
adjust
your
stirrup
length
Apply the oil with a soft cloth.
Do not saturate the saddle with
oil, apply only enough to coat it
evenly. One coat of oil is sufficient
and effective. Pay special
attention to the underside of
latigos, straps and stirrups.
Foot placement:
Proper foot placement in the stirrup impacts not only your
safety but your ability to absorb leg shock. Placing the ball
of your foot over the tread gives support and sends the
shock impact through the ankle before it reaches your
knees or back. Placing your foot further into the stirrup
increases the chance of being hung up during a fall and
puts strain on the foot arch, sending shock to the knees.
The exception to this rule occurs when riding with oxbow
stirrups. Oxbows have a rounded bottom and are designed
for the foot to be fully inserted all the way to the heel.
Wash the saddle thoroughly with
a good saddle soap, using a soft
brush and a little bit of water,
work it up into a lather.
When all dirt and dust particles
are removed, wipe the saddle
with a soft cloth until no dirt
or soap residue remains.
Let the saddle dry at normal
temperature, NEVER in the sun or
under intense heat. This causes
the leather to dry out and crack.
Allow the oil to seep into the
pores of the leather for 30
minutes. Remember, in dry
climates, saddles require more
care and must be oiled more
frequently than ones in
damp regions.
[Oxbow Stirrup]
THIS IS MEANT TO BE A GENERAL GUIDELINE. PLEASE CONSULT A PROFESSIONAL
INSTRUCTOR FOR PROPER STIRRUP LEATHER ADJUSTMENT.
For all your saddles
and tack needs...
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This document is a printer friendly version of
the Saddle Talk booklet available online at:
www.actioncompany.com
4