OCSA_Bulletin2014-12 - Orchid Club of South Australia Inc.

Published by The Orchid Club of South Australia Inc.
SOUTH AUSTRALIAN
ORCHID
BULLETIN
DECEMBER 2014
Established 1939
Web Site: www.orchidclubofsouthaustraliainc.com
Print Post Approved 100004775
Registrar’s Choice: Cymbidium canaliculatum
Grown By: Graeme & Maureen Hazledine
ORCHID CLUB OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA - LIFE MEMBERS
1966
1970
1974
1975
1975
1976
1978
1979
1980
1984
1985
1985
1985
1985
1985
1985
1985
1986
1987
1987
1988
1988
1990
1992
1992
Neil Christoph†
H C England†
Bernie Hansen†
Rex Thompson†
Syd Monkhouse
John Lewis
Mick Chenoweth†
Merv Strout†
Colin Jennings
Merv Donhardt†
Russell Schultz†
Harry Lambert
John Harris
Kath Harris†
Barbara Clayton
Lorraine Cottle
Myrnie Jennings
Nick Packard†
Margaret Hewitt
Shirley Monkhouse
Don Gallagher
Kel Staples
Allan Sullivan†
Bill White†
Roy Hargreaves†
† Denotes Deceased
1994
1994
1996
1996
1997
1998
1999
2001
2002
2003
2007
2007
2007
2007
2007
2008
2008
2009
2009
2010
2012
2012
2014
2014
2014
Reg Shooter
Enid Brooking
Ted Chance
Marjorie Chance
Eric Furness†
Cyril Clifford†
Don Nesbitt
Sally White
Richard Fishlock
Bob Collins†
Reg Faulkner
Pat Faulkner
Peter Hills
Coralie Hills
Judy Penny
David Harmer
Pat Harmer
Russell Job
Edda Viskic
Gordon Hewitt†
Murray Baulderstone†
Leo Micenko
John Gay
Bev Gay
Iain Kilpatrick
NOTES FOR DECEMBER 2014
Next OCSA Judges Meeting: - 16th February 2015 – Venue TBA
Regional Judging Panel: - 8th December - 7.30pm at Pultney Grammar School.
JUDGES ROSTER FOR DECEMBER 2014
OPEN:
FIRST:
)
R. Yates (L)
N. Oliver
R. Rankin
J. McRedmond (R)
J. Gay (L)
R. Riggs
L. Nesbitt
R. Crowhurst (R)
SECOND: )
WHAT
CAUGHT THE
JUDGE’S EYE:
OPEN
P. Rankin
FIRST
K. Minne
SECOND
G. Zerbe
RESERVES:
W. Lodge
S. Howard
COMPUTER:
B. Gay
L. Fenton
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OCSA
December 2014
The Official Bulletin of The Orchid Club of S.A. Inc.
Patron: Mrs. Lan Le
Management Committee
President
Des Bettcher
1A Holbrooks Road,
Flinders Park SA 5025
Ph (08) 8340 0580
kangas53 @hotmail.com
Senior Vice President
Graham Hein (VP)
Ph (08) 8396 1989
Show Marshal
Trevor Camac
Ph (08) 8396 4414
Secretary
Edda Viskic
G.P.O. Box 730
Adelaide SA 5001
Ph (08) 8389 8402
[email protected]
Junior Vice President
Trevor Camac
Ph (08) 8396 4414
Day Group Coordinator
Pat Harmer
Ph (08) 8250 0718
Treasurer
Graham Hein
566 Milne Road
Banksia Park SA 5091
Ph (08) 8396 1989
[email protected]
Registrar of Judges
Graham Zerbe
Ph (08) 8263 3879
Editor
David Harmer
Ph (08) 8250 0718
Social Events Coordinator
Edda Viskic Ph 8389 8402 – [email protected]
Committee
Trevor Camac Ph 8396 4414
Chris Heysen Ph 8333 2025
Wendy Lodge Ph 8264 5874
Trevor Garard Ph 8382 2130
Editors Contact for Copy: [email protected] or 8250 0718
The opinions expressed by authors do not necessarily reflect the views of the Editor or the
Committee of The Orchid Club of South Australia Inc.
Digital image by Grant Allen & Peter Dutton
COPYRIGHT: All contributions to this Bulletin which have acknowledged authors are automatically covered by
copyright. We believe that most authors would be willing to allow free use of articles if written approval is
sought from them through the Secretary of the club.
Contents
Life Members
Notes & Judging Roster
President’s Message
December Night Meeting Speaker
December Day Group Speaker
November Day Group Report
Cultural Observations for December
Committee Nominations
From the Registrar
Life Membership
What Caught the Judges Eye
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Subscriptions for 2015
Sarcochilus Show Results
OCSA – Orchids in Schools Update
Orchids in Schools Image
Orchids in Schools Images
Growing Orchids Indoors
Bulbophyllum
November Monthly Floral Results
Classified Advertisements
SA Orchid Club Contacts Details
Coming Events Program
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PRESIDENTS MESSAGE
My apology for a bulletin oversight last month. Congratulations
to Elmore and Pam Leske who were the first orchid club
recipients of the Banksian Medal presented to an exhibit at the
Royal Adelaide Show by the Royal Agricultural and Horticultural
Society of South Australia Inc. The award for “Excellence in
Horticulture” was made even more significant this year due to the
175th anniversary of the RAHS. Well done Elmore and Pam. This
has to be one of the strangest flowering seasons I can ever remember. Spikes came early,
then slowed to a halt and before many of them opened, new spikes continued to appear and
most of them flowered later than normal. December is here and I still have a good number
of Cymbidiums which should remain in flower until Xmas. I can only but wonder what
impact the approaching summer months will have on our orchids for 2015. The forecast is
for a long hot summer. conscious of comments by a number of members regarding sun burnt
plants last summer, this could be an early warning for the next couple of months. Remember
it only takes one really hot day and our orchids can be damaged so severely it may take 1-2
seasons before they recover. Taking precautions by installed misters or automatic sprinklers,
inspecting your shade house for damage, or it may be as simple as placing saucers under
your pots, to hold a small amount of water which will provide added humidity and moisture
when needed. (Plastic picnic plates provide a cheap alternative to saucers). Many thanks
goes to those members who attended and helped at the recent Sarcochilus Show and dinner.
A special thanks to our special speaker for the evening, Jim Shaughnessy for his entertaining
talk and thought-provoking information on growing Sarcochilus. Our next meeting in
December will be presented by Paul Dipuglia from Neutrog. As discussed at our November
meeting this will be an exciting opportunity to learn more about the Neutrog range of
fertilisers but also to take advantage of a new partnership arrangement with OCSA for
MEMBERS ONLY to purchase Neutrog products at reduced prices. Order forms will be
available to members at the December meeting. This offer is a great encouragement for new
and existing members – only one purchase order per year will offset your membership
subscription each year. This is a fantastic offer – don't miss the December meeting. Our day
group meeting for December will also provide an entertaining afternoon with Dave Harmer
as the presenter for this Xmas break-up meeting. The day group meetings always provide
an intimate social atmosphere for members. Just a brief announcement – due to renovations
at the Enfield Community Centre, between February and June 2015, OCSA will be
announcing alternative arrangements regarding our club meetings next year as soon as
bookings can be confirmed. I look forward to seeing you next month.
Des Bettcher – President
-ooo0ooo-
DECEMBER NIGHT MEETING SPEAKER
Our Guest Speaker for December is Paul Dipuglia from Neutrog. Paul has spoken to us
before and will tell us about the wonderful products that Neutrog make. All of Neutrog’s
products are excellent and make our orchids really grow well. I am sure Paul will have a
few little surprises so don’t miss this chance to hear our expert speaker.
DECEMBER DAY GROUP SPEAKER
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December is our ‘break up’ day. David will entertain us with one of his excellent
presentations which I know you all enjoy. We will have our usual ‘bring a gift - receive a
gift’ segment and our special basket afternoon tea. Our usual plant commentary and door
prize segment will also be a highlight of the afternoon. Hope to see you all then.
Pat Harmer – Speaker Coordinator
-ooo0ooo-
NOVEMBER DAY GROUP REPORT
The 35 members who attended the ‘Day Group’ were extremely entertained with a very
informative presentation from the Bromeliad Society. Ron & Bev Masters with Peter Hall
showed us a PowerPoint presentation on all the varieties of Bromeliads together with on
hand information on how to pot on the ‘pups’ of the plants. They showed us many different
varieties of Tillandsia on mounts and information on culture. They answered many
questions from the members with very informative answers.
We welcomed our new member Hillary Leisavnieks and wished her many happy times with
our club.
Information on our alternative meeting venues for 2015 were given together with the
agreement from Neutrog for our members to purchase their products through our club. We
had a magnificent display of plants benched and the commentary was given by Reg Shooter
and David Harmer. Many thanks guys. Thank you also to Ron Yates for taking the
Beginner’s Group. I closed the meeting and offered the members a cuppa and a chance to
view the orchids and also purchase plants which the Bromeliad Society had on offer.
Pat Harmer – Day Group Co-ordinator
-ooo0ooo-
CULTURAL OBSERVATIONS FOR DECEMBER
Another year has slipped us by. Hopefully this was a better year than
last and the coming new year will be even better. This is the key to
successful orchid growing and there is the requirement to try and go
one up on the previous year. Learning is a never ending process and
success is based on lessons learnt.
With the new year beckoning why not try and do something different
next year or try growing a different genera. I picked up an Aeranthes at the Festival of
Flowers a couple of years ago. No idea about growing it but for $8 it was worth a try. The
books said cooler conditions, lots of shade and humidity. Found that spot in the shade house
and Hea presto it grew and is now in spike. The worst thing that will happen is you will kill
it. And if you do, don’t give up (mind you its three strikes and out in my shade house). Some
orchids are not meant to grow here.
Summer is well upon us and the growth season is away. Obviously feeding and watering
are the key requirements but there are many other factors. Light levels are now at their peak,
humidity levels at the lowest and there is the usual army of bugs out there feasting on the
soft new growths. With rapid growth evident in many genera we need to keep them moving
but also take into account that they are generally soft at this stage of growth. So caterpillars
find a new growth much more tempting than a matured growth, heat damage is more
noticeable and much more likely to affect a new growth than an old growth.
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Hopefully most of our division etc has been completed by now but alas with so much to do
nowadays this is not always the case so we find more and more growers still dividing this
late in the season. As long as these plants are well looked after I can see not too many
problems dividing this late but I would not expect a premium flowering next year either.
Some of the plants that can be done now are the Cattleyas and the Oncidiums as their new
growths have new roots that are not too long and these plants can be divided without too
much set back or performance in the flowering stakes. Some of these plants can also be back
cut this time of year. Back cutting involves cutting the rhizome of a plant that is intent on
growing one forward growth each year and Oncidiums and Cattleyas are classic species that
exhibit this behaviour. The cut is made 3 or 4 growths back from the lead with a sterile knife
dipped in a fungicide. Then place a plant label in the cut to stop the growth growing back
together. The aim is to encourage a dormant eye on the back half of the division to start
growing. The plant can then be divided next year and you have two.
Zygopetalums are growing fast and most new growths will be showing new roots as well.
The key to dividing a plant at any time is do it in active growth. If you divide a plant that is
resting you may end up with a dead plant or at least a plant suffering a major setback. The
old damaged roots won’t absorb water or fertilizer very well and there are no new ones to
take over. Even when it finally grows new roots it is set back that much it may be years
before it returns to normal. All divided plants should be kept shadier, more humid and
misted regularly for awhile until they settle down and then returned to their rightful place
on the bench. Don’t forget a couple of waterings with Seasol™ to assist the recovery of the
orchid and the new roots.
Terrestrials are now in the shed stored in a cool shady place. Next month will see the annual
task of re potting. There are a couple of evergreen terrestrials we can grow here and as long
as you have some cover they won’t need too much heat over winter. These are Phaius
tankervilliae (aka the swamp orchid) and Calanthe triplicata (aka The Christmas orchid).
Both are grown under 55% shade at my place and under cover all year in a deep pot with
rich peaty compost. They both have soft wide leaves and look good even out of flower.
Caterpillars and scale love them! Both flowers mark badly if they get wet, particularly the
Calanthe that turns black. It would pay to keep the atmosphere and the plant very dry when
flowering. The Phaius is out in November and funnily enough the Calanthe flowers in
December.
Keep up the humidity this time of year as it is your ally when conditions get hot. There are
many ways to increase humidity. In my shade house I hang old man’s beard everywhere,
baby’s tears grows under the benches and along the paths, I have some containers of water
under the benches and even a few foliage plants scattered about the place. The floor is bark
chip that holds moisture. All of these factors improve the humidity. Provide some extra
shade if you can when temperatures go through the roof and remove it when conditions cool
down. We installed foggers under the covered section and these are very effective at
bumping up the humidity and bring the temperatures down on those extreme days. Avoid
spraying for pests when temperatures are high. Learn to read the signs of heat and light
damage. Die back, pitting, sun burn or scold marks and excessive yellowing of the leaves
are clear signs. I also test a few plants leaves and feel how hot they are and if they are I’ll
try to get the temp down. Inspect those orchids that do not have pseudobulbs to tide them
over the summer. Paphiopedilums and Sarcochilus come to mind so make sure they are kept
evenly moist. They also will show up heat damage via pitting of the leaves and once
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creamed by the heat will die a slow death. Inspect the roots anytime you feel the plant is
struggling. Lifting the plant partly out the pot and back in won’t harm it but if the roots have
no growth tips then something is wrong and action needs to be taken now. Not later. Paphs.
are very sensitive to salt, especially some of the species and regular flushing is essential to
remove them.
This is why a well drained mix is a must, not only to get valuable air to the roots but to
enable a regular flushing. If water drains out slowly then it is unlikely your conditions are
very favourable and problems will soon occur if not already evident. They also have low
fertiliser requirements.
Pests are plenty and the green loopers are rife. A month ago I couldn’t walk outside at night
under the street lights because of a moth plague and when there is moth plague there is
looper plague behind it. Fortunately I was prepared and I have a few pots of sacrificial
foliage plants under the benches and sure enough they are covered in loopers that are easily
removed by hand but the orchids apart from my soft leaved Zygopetalums and Lycastes are
untouched. I would still keep an eye out for scale and mites as conditions become drier.
December starts the summer season and there are still plenty that flower this time of year.
Many people won’t grow summer flowering orchids, maybe it’s because there are no shows
or club meetings are recessed until the new year, I don’t know but I make sure I am not in
that minority. Brassia verrucosa and Brassia brachiata are now out, the spidery flowers
making a wonderful display even if their smell leaves much to be desired, there are always
a few summer flowering mini Cattleyas and Oncidiums adding colour. I have always loved
the Oncidiinae complex.
Like the Laeliinae group a well thought out collection can usually have at least one member
from the group or intergenerics bred from them that flower every month of the year. I have
Encyclias, Native Dendrobiums (yes, even in summer, but they only last a few days), always
Zygoes spot flowering, Sartylis, Neofinetia, Biffrenaria, native Cymbidiums (madidum ,
canaliculatum and suave) and their hybrids all providing summer colour. 2014 is about to
bite the dust and 2015 waits.
Most of these notes are for the learners in the clubs and hope that these and the beginners
group meetings have been useful in helping you understand and improve your culture. For
the rest of the growers I hope they have been helpful even in a small way. We are all into
this together and we all need to interact, share ideas and dare to try something different. All
the best for Xmas and maybe Santa bring you many seedlings.
Steve Howard
-ooo0ooo-
Committee Nominations
Members of the Orchid Club of South Australia are invited to nominate for the following
positions in the 2015 Committee of Management. All positions are vacant and members
may stand for re-election for President, Treasurer, Secretary, and 2 Vice Presidents, as well
as 4 general committee positions. We need your support to continue organizing club events
and meetings so please consider nominating and help run our club. Nominations are to
be with the Secretary by the end of the 4th December 2014 General Meeting.
Edda Viskic, Secretary.
FROM THE REGISTRAR
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It was great to see Colin Jennings back and well enough to assist with proceedings and it
won’t be long before Colin will be taking it all in his stride as usual, it will be “old hat” once
more. In November we start to see some of the Australian Native Cymbidiums and some of
the Cym. devonianum hybrids and our meeting was no exception with plants from these
groups being the division winners chosen by the judging panel. Of course there were also
many Sarcochilus present in all divisions the members were treated to yet another wonderful
display with all divisions presenting some excellent plants for the judging.
Flower of Second Division: Commentary for this division was
carried out by Judge Graeme Hazledine, who commended the
growers for the number of quality plants presented for judging.
Graeme commented on the number of and variety of the
Sarcochilus. The winning plant was Cymbidium Cricket grown by
George & Betty Misirlis. Cym. Cricket is a primary hybrid of Cym.
(devonianum x madidum) registered in 1964 by Greenoaks. The
plant carried forty five (45) inflorescences each with thirty to forty
(30-40) flowers on each. The flowers were very clean, small and display features from each
of the parent plants, with rounded segments green in colour overlaid with dark brown and a
violet coloured labellum with white vertical stripes. The plant was presented in show bench
condition. George & Betty grow the plant in a shade house, watering every day in the
summer months and reducing to every 4-5 days in the winter with rain water. The potting
medium is medium pine bark and fertilizing is carried out regularly using Tribon, Seasol
and Campbell’s Blue to give the plant a good variety of food. With this variety of food the
plant is very healthy and they find it is very easy to grow in their conditions.
Congratulations George & Betty and thank you for sharing such a wonderful plant with the
members present.
Flower of First Division: Commentary was presented by Judge
Ken Minne. Ken mentioned that the First Division growers will
have to lift their game as there were more plants in the Second
Division. The panel was given a solid workout with quality plant
in all sections on the show bench. Eventually arriving at the
decision that the Cymbidium Sweet Devon ‘Fiona” grown by Rito
& Rosetta Silvestri. Again a Primary hybrid featuring an
Australian species Cym. (devonianum x suave). The five (15)
inflorescences carried many small flowers again displaying the features of both parents. The
plant was fresh and presented in pristine condition. Rito & Rosetta grows this plant in a
small shade house watering three (3) times a day for two (2) minutes during the summer
tapering off as the weather cools and only natural rain during the winter and a normal spring.
The fertiliser is “Rito’s secret mix” fortnightly the potting medium is 20mm bark and 10mm
gravel to open up the mix. The orchid hangs above the other Cymbidiums.
Well done Rito & Rosetta congratulations, you certainly grow your plants well.
Flower of Open Division & Flower of the Night: Commentary by Judge Wendy Lodge
and the plant chosen as the flower of the Division was Cymbidium canaliculatum this plant
being the stand out plant on the open benches the plant is an Australian Native Cymbidium
species grown by Graeme & Maureen Hazledine. A large well grown plant with twenty five
plus (25) inflorescences with too many flowers to count; these were spaced all around the
inflorescences. Graeme & Maureen grow this plant in a shade house covered with 50%
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green shade cloth, hung up high. The potting medium is small pine bark and marble chips.
The plant is only watered from September to May and heavily during the summer months.
The plant is kept as dry as possible by placing under cover in the winter. The watering
commences again in September. The plant is fertilized regularly using a low nitrogen
fertilizer like HSO 10 or Campbell’s Yellow in the period September to April.
Congratulations Graeme & Maureen on receiving Flower of the Night with a truly standout
plant on the night, well done.
Graham J. Zerbe - Registrar of Judges
-ooo0ooo-
LIFE MEMBERSHIP
Ron Yates has been nominated by committee to receive life membership of The Orchid
Club of South Australia Inc. in 2015. He has served as a member on Committee, Publicity
Officer, Judge and Registrar of Judges and Virus Panel Official and deserves your vote at
the A.G.M. on the 5th February.
Edda Viskic - Secretary
-ooo0ooo-
WHAT CAUGHT THE JUDGE’S EYE IN NOVEMBER
OPEN DIVISION:
JUDGE:
Rayne Riggs
PLANT:
Sarcochilus
GROWER:
Iain Kilpatrick
COMMENTS:
In Open Division the Australian Native Epiphyte
Hybrid section had a wonderful spectacular display of flowers all of
different colours with reds, pinks, yellows and whites with red centres.
Various size pots from 3 inch to 6 inch pots carried very small plants to
nice specimen plants growing in small to medium bark and perlite. Sarcochilus species grow
mainly in the north-east of NSW. In a very limited range along the east coast from near
Gympie in southeast Queensland southward to the Hastings River. Plants are almost
exclusively lithophytes growing at moderate elevations near 3,300 feet. It is a credit to Iain
who brought plants in. Well done.
FIRST DIVISION:
JUDGE:
Pat Harmer
PLANT:
Dendrobium lindeyi
GROWER:
Wendy Lodge
COMMENTS: There were 15 plants in First Division this month
but they were all of good quality and it made it hard for me to pick
which one caught my eye. However I decided on Den. lindeyi which
had one raceme with 25 very eye catching flowers. The flowers
were a lovely shade of yellow with a striking darker yellow in the centre of the flower. It
was grown in a hanging pot which was filled with short bulbous canes and lovely small
shiny green leaves. This species is widespread across Southeast Asia, N.E. India, Burma,
Thailand and other areas. In Thailand plants are found at elevations up to 4,500 feet. They
grow on trees and branches of deciduous trees in open dry forests. They need bright light,
strong air movement with temperatures ranging from 7°C - 32°C. A cool dry rest period is
required to initiate flowering. Well done Wendy.
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SECOND DIVISION:
JUDGE:
Reg Shooter
PLANT:
Lc. Tangerine Dream
GROWERS:
Trevor Camac
COMMENTS: This was a large plant carrying 3 racemes of pure
tangerine/orange flowers. The plant was in excellent condition and had
in its background several orange colored species; Laelia harpophylla,
Cattleya aurantiaca, Laelia cinnabarina & L. crispata. This is a very
rewarding & easy orchid to grow requiring very little looking after. It
is a cool grower in Adelaide & if given plenty of fresh air, regular watering particularly in
warm weather; it will produce heads of up to 8 brilliant orange flowers that are long lasting.
Thanks Trevor for bringing in this lovely orchid for us to enjoy.
-ooo0ooo-
SUBSCRIPTIONS FOR 2015 ARE NOW DUE
Your committee has decided to keep annual subscriptions for 2015 the
same as they have been in the past. Subscriptions for 2015 will be:
Family $35
Joint $30
Single $25
Payment may be made by post or to the Treasurer’s Desk at the next
Monthly Meeting. Thanking you.
Graham Hein - Treasurer
ooo0ooo-
RESULTS SOCIALISING WITH SARCS
Our “Socialising with Sarcs” night although down on numbers with flowers and attendance
was a great success our Guest Speaker Jim Shaughnessy’s presentation was interesting and
show us “Jims way of growing” Sarcochilus. It is interesting when we see how other
growers in different parts of Australia grow these little beauties the culture and
environments vary considerably yet the results are very similar.
Prior to the actual judging of the Sarcochilus benched the panel was invited to assess a
Baptistonia echinata for a Club Award. The panel granted an Award of Cultural
Commendation (ACC) with 77.5points. Well done John & Bev Gay.
The following results show the winners of each section and the two major prizes on the
night going to:
Judges Choice – Sarco. Sunny
Dave & Pat Harmer.
Popular Vote – Sarco. Magic ‘Rose Delight’
Iain & Ros Kilpatrick.
Predominately White – Sarcochilus Hybrid
1. Sarco. Verolica
Russell Job & Edda Viskic
Predominately Red/Pink - Sarcochilus Hybrid
1. Sarco. Magic ‘Rose Delight’
Ian & Ros Kilpatrick
Other Colour Combination - Sarcochilus Hybrid
1. Sarco. Sunny
Dave & Pat Harmer
Intergeneric - Hybrid
1. Srts. Toowoomba Sparkle ‘Hubba Bubba’
Ian & Ros Kilpatrick
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Sarcochilus hartmannii - Species
1. Sarco. hartmannii ‘Perfection’
Ian & Ros Kilpatrick
Sarcochilus fitzgeraldii - Species
1. Sarco. fitzgeraldii ‘Frances’
James Argent & Alan Jefferies
Specimen Plant
1. Sarco. Fitzhart ‘Phillipa’
Garard Bros.
Sarcochilus Seedling
1.
Sarco. [hartmannii x (Bernice Klein x Zoe)] James Argent & Alan Jefferies
-ooo0ooo-
OCSA - Orchids In Schools Update
Once again it is a pleasure to report that the Orchids in Schools program is expanding and
is proving to be popular not only with the students but with members of the public. I have
received many positive comments about the program from people who have heard about it
or come into contact with students, teachers or mentors involved with the program.
The student’s involvement at the Royal Show was probably the best way to gauge how they
are progressing. There were in excess of 35 plants put into the Schools Competition for
judging. These came from 3 OIS participants in Woodville, Willunga and Mount Barker
together with Urrbrae Agricultural College and private student entries.
Willunga High School Orchid Club even managed to enter a display of their own, the first
school to manage this feat. Hopefully other schools will follow their example.
The two recent additions to the OIS program, Valley View Secondary School and Kildare
College will be eligible to show their plants early next year and hopefully they can start
showing at the Festival of Flowers and monthly meetings.
The mentors at Valley View Secondary school, Pat and Dave Harmer, have two very
interested girls in their group who since early March have already helped give a
presentation at the Royal Show , hybridised a Cymbidium, assisted in planting Pterostylis
curta plants in the garden near the school administration office as well as carry out their
routine orchid culture . The small shade house is nearly full and a few potential champions
are being groomed. The staff at Valley View is right behind the OIS program and special
mention must be made of Danielle Fattori, Peter Jamieson and Leanne Armstrong who assist
and promote the school orchid club.
At Kildare College a fairly large group of students make up their orchid club. Working
under the watchful eye of Les Nesbitt this group is well on their way to learning the finer
points of orchid culture. Since the start up presentation in late June they have already
hybridised a Cymbidium, planted native terrestrial orchids and attended an orchid ‘search’
at Morialta and from all reports thoroughly enjoyed it.
Their shade house will most likely be finished sometime early in the last term and plants
can then be distributed. Again, school staff assists greatly and I must mention the efforts of
Paul Belltrame and Neenah McKenzie.
Thanks also to the staff and parents at the other schools for their assistance with organising
various projects and helping move students to venues. It is great to see parents and other
family members taking such an interest in the students’ orchid work.
A project that has been started recently is the hybridisation of a Cymbidium plant that was
donated by the Bagwell family. Cym. Betty Court had three inflorescences and I thought it
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December 2014
would be a novel idea if this plant was used as a pod or pollen parent by all the OIS schools.
So far the plant has been pollinated by students from Kildare College and Valley View
Secondary. Pollen from the plant will be given to Woodville, Mt. Barker and Willunga to
complete the exercise. Hopefully all seed pods will be successful but as any hybridiser
knows it can be a hit and miss affair.
The mentor group is growing and as we get more people involved we will start more
schools. If anyone is interested in mentoring for about an hour a week at a school that wishes
to participate please let me know.
So far this year ..... Woodville High School nominated OCSA for a Western Futures Schools
and Business Community Award which the club won. Willunga students have participated
in a radio interview on Tribe FM discussing OCSA and the OIS program manned an
information/sales stall at the Willunga 175 Fair, planted and flowered orchids in their
indigenous garden and have a native orchid tuber/seed bank under way. A Willunga student
has written an essay (‘My Favourite Orchid’) for Orchids Australia.
The ABC stage co presentation at the Royal show was supported by Mount Barker, Valley
View and Willunga students. Willunga, Mount Barker. Valley View and Kildare have
planted native terrestrial orchids in their school garden areas.
All the 3 eligible schools have competed in OCSA monthly meeting competitions, major
OCSA shows and the Royal Show.
Next year it is hoped regional schools will join the program as well as more metropolitan
schools. More sizable donations of plants and pots have been made with more to be collected
from donors and this should support the addition of more schools. Special thanks must go
to NOSSA members who have donated about 2000 pots, some benches and many plants.
NOSSA is taking a keen interest in the OIS program and has assisted with terrestrial orchid
advice and other information. This program is probably one of the great things that this
OCSA has done and ranks alongside the 2003 Australian Show and Conference. Whereas
the Conference was over in a few days the OIS program should always be moving forward.
Trevor Garard
Mentor, Teacher & Students at Valley View Secondary School
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OCSA
December 2014
Tunnel Shade house at VVSS.
VVSS Students inspecting orchids
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OCSA
December 2014
Fertilizing with Strike Back for Orchids
Teacher with students planting terrestrials
Mentor with Students at Kildare College
Students at the Royal Show
GROWING ORCHIDS INDOORS
One thing we notice of recent times when talking to both young and older people at shows
is that a majority of them do not have the room to have a large area to grow orchids and the
first thing they ask you is “can I grow these inside”. Most times we, maybe in ignorance,
say no to this question, but then again there are many orchids on sale on the trading table
that with perseverance are rewarding indoor plants. Once a home owner has succumbed and
bought his or her first orchid, or received one as a gift, meeting a few cultural requirements
will coax the plant to survive and flower again. Phalaenopsis is a prime example with
hundreds of unnamed plants being sold and successfully or maybe it’s a fluke are grown in
the home.
Orchids generally are far tougher and hardier than most people think, and are, by and large,
extremely adaptable. There is a long-standing myth that orchids are difficult, if not
impossible, to grow especially without a hot house or shade house. With at least 20,000
species and some 100,000 artificial hybrids, there are definitely some notoriously fussy
orchids, but there are also many rugged, popular, easy-to-grow types that adapt to the
temperatures and light conditions found on or near the average home windowsill. So by
exploring the options and putting together a collection you can have plants producing exotic
flowers all the year-round.
Orchids are different from other houseplants. Unlike ferns, philodendrons and palms orchids
do not grow in soil. Potting an orchid in soil is actually one of the best ways to kill it. Most
orchids in the wild are not rooted in the ground, but instead attach themselves by their thick
roots to the sides of trees and on branches and rocks. Clinging to bark, the plants absorb
water and nutrients from the air and rain and whatever runs down the tree. They are adapted
to surviving when rain is scarce, hoarding water in thick leaves, stems and roots.
Watering
In the house, orchids are grown in pots filled with bark, sphagnum moss, stone, tree fern or
some other loosely packed material, which keeps roots well-aerated and permits water to
drain quickly. Nothing kills an orchid faster than letting it sit in a water-logged pot, since a
lack of air will cause the roots to suffocate and rot. Watering orchids thoroughly, usually
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December 2014
about once a week, then allow them to dry slightly before watering again is the norm.
Orchids are better equipped to withstand periods of forgetfulness than they are being
overwatered.
Temperature: Another difference between orchids and many houseplants is that in nature
most orchids experience a difference between day and night temperatures. Manipulating the
temperature of the home so it will drop at least 10 degrees at night, especially in autumn
and winter when many orchids are initiating buds, will induce the orchids to set flower buds
more readily. You can achieve this if you have air conditioning by lowering the temperature
on the thermostat. This little trick can mean the difference between an orchid plant that
merely lives on, and one that thrives and flowers.
Orchids are usually classified as warm growing, intermediate and cool growing, with regard
to their temperature needs. Many tolerate exposure to warmer or cooler temperatures
without suffering damage. The temperature groupings refer to the lowest temperature the
orchid prefers during winter nights. Warm-growing orchids, such as Phalaenopsis, sulk if
temperatures drop much below 16°C. Intermediate growers, such as Cattleyas, prefer winter
nights around 13°C. Cool-growing orchids, including Cymbidiums and Odontoglossums,
are accustomed to winter nights of 10°C or less. At the other extreme, most orchids perform
poorly when exposed to temperatures above 33°C.
Light: Orchids are also classified into three other groups depending on the intensity of light
they require e.g. high light (3,000 foot-candles), medium (2,000 foot-candles) and low
(1,000 to 1,500 foot-candles). Most orchids require plenty of light, preferably a minimum
of at least six hours a day. Many orchids can withstand more or less than the amount of
recommended light, but providing more light will enhance the flowering potential.
Conversely, inadequate light prevents orchids from flowering, although they will continue
to grow.
Leaf colour will indicate if the amount of light the plant is receiving is adequate. The lush,
rich, dark green of most houseplants is not desirable in orchid leaves. Dark green leaves are
attractive, but signal there is not enough light. A yellowish/green colour (light or medium
green with yellowish tones) means the plant is receiving sufficient light to bloom. Gauge
light intensity with this simple hand/eye test: Put your hand 6 inches above the leaves and
look at the shadow cast. A sharp-edged shadow means high light; a soft-edged shadow
indicates medium to low light; no shadow at all means the light is insufficient for an orchid
to flower.
Southern and eastern facing windows are usually not light enough but northern and western
windows are brighter but also can be too hot in the afternoon. Too much direct light can
cause leaves to sunburn with the leaves bleaching out to white, ultimately dying and turning
black so it may be necessary to reposition plants as the seasons change and move them back
from direct sunlight. A shade cloth type external blind is very beneficial so moving plants
away from or toward the window will adjust the amount of light. Hanging a sheet of marix
cloth as a curtain inside also helps.
Artificial Light: Where windows with adequate light are unavailable, consider cultivating
orchids beneath artificial light. Four 4-foot-long fluorescent tubes placed 6 inches apart side
by side should do the trick. Two light fixtures with cool-white bulbs will suffice. Special
grow lights, sold under various trade names, are considerably more expensive and extend
the light spectrum. The grow lights will give better results, but then again there is the power
bill. Place plants 6 to 8 inches below the tubes. Put the lights on a timer to operate the lights
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December 2014
for 10 to 14 hours a day if in a non external light area or an additional 4 hours after sundown
if near a window in the winter months. Many orchids, such as Phalaenopsis and
Paphiopedilums, will be content. Orchids requiring more light, such as Vandas and
Cymbidiums, however, need natural sunlight or high-intensity discharge lights to bloom. A
fluorescent fixture in a dimly lit window adds extra light to natural sunlight and can mean
the difference between flowers and no flowers. Orchids that do not flower often will require
more light.
Fertilizing: Orchids do not require abundant doses of fertilizer. However, to maintain
healthy plants and see flowers on a regular basis, apply a weak solution of NPK 20-10-20
fertilizer once a week during the growing period.
Each month, water well with rain water to flush out any accumulated fertilizer salts. Dilute
the fertilizer to one-quarter the strength recommended on the package. When in doubt, give
less rather than more. Switch to a blossom-booster fertilizer in the autumn, when many
orchids are initiating flower buds. Blossom-booster is a fertilizer ratio with higher
phosphorus and lower nitrogen, such as a NPK 10-30-20 formula. Many orchids are winter
bloomers, which makes them even more special as houseplants. They fill an often otherwise
flowerless void in the drabbest of months. Peak of orchid blooming usually occurs between
May to December.
Humidity: One of the things orchids greatly appreciate is adequate humidity. Fifty percent
or more is necessary, but the atmosphere in most homes, especially those with dry, hot-air
heat, is far below that. Raising the humidity around orchids will result in better flowering.
Some tricks to increase humidity is to mist plants with water, operate a humidifier near the
plants or place the pots on flat pebbles or gravel set in a tray in which water is added until
it almost covers the stones. If you are not fussy how it looks group the orchids together and
cordon off the growing area with a clear plastic like tent and continue to provide ventilation
to prevent bacteria from becoming a problem. Try a few cheap ones to gain confidence in
your indoor growing system. You can then progress to the very best ones.
-ooo0ooo-
Bulbophyllum
th
History: During the 18 century, many newly discovered and
interesting plants were sent to Europe, among them were a good
number from the French islands off the East Africa coast
Mauritius, Réunion and Madagascar and the French plant
scientist Louis-Marie Aubert Du Petit-Thouars, born 1758,
decided to go there with his brother, to explore the flora of these
islands and managed in 1792 to find a ship that would take him
to the islands in the Indian Ocean.
In 1802 the brothers returned to France where Louis
subsequently published several books with drawings about the plants he found there.
Contained in some of his writings, were the first descriptions of ‘Phyllorkis’, which Thouars
later re-named “Bulbophyllums”. This group of plants consists of about 2,000 species
of Bulbophyllinae and are related to Dendrobiums, with Epigeneiums standing half way
between these two large genera.
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December 2014
Together with Bulbophyllum there are a number of plants with other names belonging to
this group such as Achrocaene over Cirrhopetalum, Sunipia, Trias to Vescisepalum. Today
there are hybrids between several of these species.
It is estimated that there are around 1200 Bulbophyllums alone throughout the equatorial
regions. This vast number compares well with the New World group of
the Pleurothallidinae.
In addition to having the regular characteristics of orchid flowers, one group of the
Bulbophyllums have a thickened base of the column with sometimes a vestigial column foot
to which the lip is rigidly attached. The other group – Schlechter called them
Eubulbophyllum, (the “true” Bulbophyllums), having a definite column foot forming a
mentum and the lip attached loosely, so it wiggles when touched or in the breeze.
Most of the plants in this genus are epiphytic and have creeping rhizomes with pseudobulbs
that carry one or two leaves but rarely three. Most of the cultivated species have fleshy,
even succulent leaves in different sizes, but they can also be thin or terete leaved. The single
or multi-flowered inflorescences always arises from the base of the pseudo-bulb in contrast
to the Dendrobiums where the flowers always come from the sides or the top of the plants.
Bulbophyllum flowers come in all shades and hues of the rainbow and can be between
180mm across such as Bulb. echinolabium and Bulb. longissimum to small flowers that can
only be admired through a magnifying glass. Bulb. alagense from the Philippines is often
called the ‘rosary orchid’ because its pseudo-bulbs look like the beads of a green rosary. Its
tiny orange eyelash flowers are 3 mm long and smell of cinnamon. Bulb. pygmaeum from
N.Z. and Bulb. minutissimum are said to have the smallest flowers of all the orchids.
The inflorescences of the Megaclinium group look like tapeworms with little flowers
coming from the sides, along the central vein. The Cirrhopetalum flowers grow mostly in
umbels, with feathery appendages waving in the slightest breeze.
These species are pollinated in nature by a vast array of birds and insects; each species has
its own pollinator. A few are infamous for attracting carrion flies, among them is the
gigantic Bulb. beccarii from Borneo.
It winds its rhizome with a diameter of 200mm around the trunks of large trees, waving its
charming white and rosy flowers for all to see and wafting the odour of rotting flesh far and
wide.
If any orchardist, cultivating Bulb. spiesii or Bulb. phalaenopsis are successful in bringing
them to bloom, the grower will only reluctantly enter the growing area because the evil
smell that these flowers produce is revolting.
These epiphytes need good drainage. They do not do well for any length of time in pots.
They grow well on plaques of bark or cork or can be tied to thin branches. The larger more
robust plants like Bulb. dayanum need a bigger stouter support. They also grow well in open
baskets and very shallow saucer-like pots or pans with additional holes in them. A fine to
medium loose mix works well.
They grow throughout the year with only some species from the Himalaya regions,
Myanmar and Western China as well as some Pacific islands with higher elevations needing
a few weeks of drier rest after the new growths have matured.
During active growth, all enjoy regular watering with weak fertilizer, high humidity,
medium light and a warm temperature. Bulbophyllums and their allies do not like to have
their roots disturbed so leave them alone unless the mix becomes stale. Then, you will need
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December 2014
to do something quickly if you want the plant to survive. Keep evenly moist and use only
very weak applications of fertilizer during the growing season.
Ref. Wicopedia
Bulbo. echinolabium
Bulbo. dayanum
Bulbo. beccarii
NOVEMBER
MONTHLY
FLORAL
RESULTS
BEST ORCHID OPEN DIVISION AND REGISTRAR’S CHOICE
Cymbidium canaliculatum grown by Graeme & Maureen Hazledine
BEST ORCHID FIRST DIVISION
Cymbidium Sweet Devon ‘Fiona’ grown by Rito & Rosetta Silvestri
BEST ORCHID SECOND DIVISION
Cymbidium Cricket grown by George & Betty Misirlis
BEST SEEDLING
Sarco (Fitzhart x Cherie Dawn) grown by Garard Bros. Orchids.
OPEN DIVISION
Australian Native Epiphyte - Hybrid
1. Sarco. Fitzhart 'Phillipa'
Garard Bros. Orchids
2. Sarco. Parma
Iain & Ros Kilpatrick
3. Sarco. Magic 'Rose Delight'
Iain & Ros Kilpatrick
Australian Native Epiphyte - Species
1. Cym. canaliculatum
Graeme & Maureen Hazledine
2. Sarco. hartmannii 'Perfection'
Iain & Ros Kilpatrick
3. Cym. canaliculatum
Nesbitt Orchids
Australian Native Terrestrial - Hybrid
1. Diuris (brevifolia x sulphurea)
Les Burgess
Australian Native Terrestrial - Species
1. Microtis Unknown
Iain & Ros Kilpatrick
Cymbidium – over 90mm Species
1. Cym. lowianum
Nesbitt Orchids
Cymbidium – under 60mm Red/Pink/Brown
1. Cym. Pied Piper 'Whistle Blower'
Graham & Sue Zerbe
Dendrobium – Hybrid – Other than Australian Native
1. Den. Kenny Green
Russell Job & Edda Viskic
2. Den. (Gold Star x Gladeview Sunset)
Nesbitt Orchids
Dendrobium – Species – Other than Australian Native
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OCSA
December 2014
1. Den. chordiforme
Roger Herraman
Laeliinae – Non-Standard Shape Hybrid 60mm to 100mm
1. Wlc. [Cook.] Bill
Russell Job & Edda Viskic
2. Epc. René Marqués
Gordon & Coralie Hime
Laeliinae – Non-Standard Shape Hybrid Cluster
1. Ctt. [Slc.] Kingaroy
Roger Herraman
2. Ctt. [Lc.] Trick or Treat
Iain & Ros Kilpatrick
Laeliinae - Species
1. Gur. [C.] skinneri
Roger Herraman
Laeliinae – Standard Shape Hybrid over 100mm
1. Rlc. [Bc.] Brummel Zaoh
John & Bev Gay
Oncidiinae Hybrid over 60mm
1. Alcra. Tahoma Glacier 'Ithan'
John & Bev Gay
Oncidiinae Hybrid under 60mm
1. Onc. Sharry Baby 'Sweet Fragrance'
Russell Job & Edda Viskic
Paphiopedilum – Non-Standard Shape Hybrid
1. Paph. Saint. Swithin
Graeme & Maureen Hazledine
2. Paph. Albion
Graeme & Maureen Hazledine
Paphiopedilum – Species
1. Paph. philippinense
Suzanne Saunders
Phalaenopsis – Non-Standard Shape Hybrid
1. Phal. (Brother Lawrence x Prospector's Dream
Graeme & Maureen Hazledine
Phalaenopsis – Species
1. Phal. mannii
Ron & Irene Parish
2. Phal. mariae
Ron & Irene Parish
3. Phal. venosa
Ron & Irene Parish
Vandeae – Non-Standard Shape Hybrid
1. Srts. Toowoomba Sparkle
Iain & Ros Kilpatrick
2. Aranda Woleco 'Magenta Red'
Ron & Irene Parish
3. Srts. Toowoomba Sparkle
Russell Job & Edda Viskic
Vandeae – Species
1. Vanda javierae
Roger Herraman
2. Angcm. sesquipedale
Ron & Irene Parish
3. Aergs. modesta
Russell Job & Edda Viskic
Zygopetalinae – Hybrid Inter-generic
1. Pbt. Zodiac x Zga. Adelaide Charmer
Russell Job & Edda Viskic
Zygopetalinae - Zygopetalum Hybrid
2. Z. [(Secundum x Titanic) x Kiwi Choice]
Russell Job & Edda Viskic
Other Genera – Hybrid not listed elsewhere
1. Masd. Pichincha
Ron & Irene Parish
Other Genera – Species not listed elsewhere
1. Bif. harrisoniae
Ron & Irene Parish
2. Bulb. nymphopolitanum
Ron & Irene Parish
Orchid Seedling (Any Genera)
1. Sarco. (Fitzhart x Cherie Dawn)
Garard Bros. Orchids
FIRST DIVISION
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OCSA
December 2014
Australian Native Epiphyte - Species
1. Cym. canaliculatum var. sparksii
Graham Hein
2. Cym. canaliculatum 'Ashford Road 11'
Graham Hein
Cymbidium – under 60mm Red/Pink/Brown
1. Cym. Sweet Devon 'Fiona'
Rito & Rosetta Silvestri
Cymbidium – under 60mm Yellow/Green
1. Cym. Gladys Whitesell 'The Charmer'
Rito & Rosetta Silvestri
Dendrobium – Hybrid – Other than Australian Native
1. Den. Andemos 'Mountain View'
Graham Hein
2. Den. Yodogimi 'No.1'
Graham Hein
Dendrobium – Species – Other than Australian Native
1. Den. lindleyi
Wendy & Michael Lodge
Laeliinae – Non-Standard Shape Hybrid 60mm to 100mm
1. C. Angela
Wendy & Michael Lodge
Laeliinae – Non-Standard Shape Hybrid Cluster
1. Slc. Gold
2. Goldmine 'Carona'
Rito & Rosetta Silvestri
Laeliinae – Standard Shape Hybrid under 60mm
1. Bsn. Sunny Delight
Chris & Lyn Heysen
Oncidiinae Hybrid under 60mm
1. Onc. [Oncda.] Chaculatum 'Clockwork'
Chris & Lyn Heysen
Paphiopedilum – Non-Standard Shape Hybrid
1. Paph. (spicerianum x Western Sky)
Graham Hein
Phalaenopsis – Standard Shape Hybrid over 80mm
1. Phal. Tinny Honey
Chris & Lyn Heysen
Other Genera – Species not listed elsewhere
1. Arpo. giganteum
Wendy & Michael Lodge
SECOND DIVISION
Australian Native Epiphyte - Hybrid
1. Sarco. (Zoe x Aussie Glow)
Allan Stewart
2. Rhincs. Aussie Passion
Ray & Monika Rogers
3. Sarco. Fizzy Dove 'Painted Lady'
Warren Thomas
Cymbidium – 60mm to 90mm Yellow/Green
1. Cym. Pat Ann 'Goldilocks'
Rayne Riggs
Cymbidium – under 60mm Red/Pink/Brown
1. Cym. Cricket
George & Betty Misirlis
2. Cym. Parish Song 'Mulbery'
Daphne Bagwell
3. Cym. Chiisana
Mount Barker High School
Dendrobium – Hybrid – Other than Australian Native
1. Den. Australian Freckles
Rowan Crowhurst
Dendrobium – Species – Other than Australian Native
1. Den. aphyllum
Rowan Crowhurst
Laeliinae – Non-Standard Shape Hybrid 60mm to 100mm
1. Ctt. [Lc.] Tangerine Dream
Trevor & Gwen Camac
Laeliinae - Species
1. C. intermedia 'alba'
Eric Nesbitt
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OCSA
December 2014
Oncidiinae Hybrid under 60mm
1. Onc. Splinter
Rowan Crowhurst
Phalaenopsis – Standard Shape Hybrid under 80mm
1. Phal. Lime Light
Allan Stewart
MEMBERS PLEASE CHECK THIS LIST
WITH YOUR PLANT LABELS
THE FOLLOWING ORCHIDS HAVE BEEN REGISTERED
Grower Number
Crossing
Registration
86
Sarco. (Roberta x Topaz)
Sarco. Parma
1140
B. perrinii x Gur. [C.]
Brassanthe (Bsn.) Sunny
aurantica
Delight
273
Cym. (Mimi x canaliculatum)
Cym. Chiisana
PLEASE CHANGE YOUR LABELS TO THE REGISTERED and or NAME CHANGE,
thank you.
SUPPORT YOUR CLUB SPONSORS
The Royal Adelaide Show September 4th – 12th 2015
Supporters of OCSA, The Festival of Flowers
& Orchids in Schools Program
Manufacturers of your fertilising needs for gardens, potted plants
& orchids
21
OCSA
December 2014
Website: www.neutrog.com.au
Miles Harper – Club Solicitor
Can help your legal transactions
Wills and Estates are a speciality
First interview FREE for OCSA members
262 – 266 Pirie Street, Adelaide, SA 5000
Ph: 7100 5458 Email: [email protected]
Adelaide Digital
Your OCSA Preferred Printer for Best Quality and Consistency
Ph: (08)8349 9511
Email: [email protected]
weathersafe™ shades
20 Bennet Avenue, Melrose Park
Ph: 8276 1111
website: www.weathersafe.com.au
Your Supplier of Shade-cloth, Shade Sails and Fixtures
COBB & CO. PTY.LTD.
An OCSA Preferred Supplier of all your orchid needs
Unit 3, 6 McGowan Street, Pooraka
Phone: 8349 7300
SMOULTS MOBILE HORTICULTURAL SUPPLIERS
An OCSA Preferred Supplier of your Potting & Horticultural Needs
22
OCSA
PHONE: 8389 3295
December 2014
23
OCSA
December 2014
SOUTH AUSTRALIAN ORCHID CLUBS
Cymbidium Orchid Club of S.A.
Secretary: Graham Morris
Email: [email protected]
Gawler Districts Orchid Club
Secretary: Murray Page
Ph. (08) 8250 0689
PO Box 32, Gawler, SA 5118
Millicent Orchid Society
Secretary: Robert Wood
Ph. (08) 8723 2953
c/o 37 Wehl Street North Mount Gambier
Sth. Aust. 5290
Mount Gambier Orchid Society
Secretary: Robert Wood
Ph. (08) 8723 2953
c/o 37 Wehl Street North Mount Gambier
Sth. Aust. 5290
Murray Bridge & Districts Orchid
Club
Secretary: Wendy Schmerl
Mobile. 0435 909 246
PO Box 652,
Murray Bridge, SA 5253
Native Orchid Society of S.A.
Secretary: John Bartram
Ph. (08) 8331 3541
PO Box 565,
Unley, SA 5061
Northern & Eastern Districts Orchid
Society
Secretary: Ms. Eleanor Mathews
Ph. (08) 8362 5511
1/71-73 Phillis Street, Maylands, SA 5069
Port Lincoln Orchid Club
Secretary: Meg Coleman
Ph. (08) 8682 1463
PO Box 1335
Port Lincoln S.A. 5606
Port Pirie & Districts Orchid Club
Secretary: Roxanne Cattermole
Pirie S.A. 5540
Email : kevycatt08&gmail.com
Riverland Orchid Society
Secretary: Marianne Lynch
Ph. (08) 8588 7384
PO Box 746,
Berri, S.A. 5343
South Australian Orchidaceous Society
Secretary: Trevor Jacob
Ph. (08) 8346 6155
PO Box 161,
Brooklyn Park S.A. 5032
South Coast Orchid Club of S.A.
Secretary: Lucy Spear
Ph. (08) 8381 4420
6 David Street, H
Happy Valley, S.A. 5159
Sunraysia Orchid Club
Secretary: Diane Cavanagh
Ph. (03) 5025 7305
PO Box 1818
Mildura Vic. 3502
Port Augusta Orchid Club
Whyalla Orchid Club
Secretary: Kendall Jones
Ph. (08) 8641 3220
Secretary: Brian Noble
PO Box 1752
Email: [email protected]
Port. Augusta SA 5700
Banks – An institution that lends you money as long as you are already so well off
that you don’t really need it.
24
OCSA
December 2014
THE ORCHID CLUB OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA INC.
NEXT NIGHT MEETING
Enfield Community Centre
540 Regency Road, Enfield
4th December at 8.00pm
PROGRAM 2014 -2015
DATE
PRESENTER
4th December
TOPIC
Neutrog
Paul Dipuglia
5th February 2015
A.G.M.
5th March 2015
DAY GROUP MEETINGS
Enfield Community Centre,
540 Regency Road, Enfield
12th December at 2.00pm
(Bus Stop 119 Bus No 300 Circle Line)
DATE
12th December
PRESENTER
D. Harmer
13th February 2015
TOPIC
Christmas Breakup
Les Nesbitt
Soft Cane Dendrobiums
13th March 2015
T.B.A.
DIARY DATES FOR THE 2014 SEASON
April T.B.A.
Festival of Flowers
11th & 12th July 2015
th
Winter Show
th
4 to 12 September 2015
th
th
26 & 27 September 2015
th
7 November 2015
Enfield Community Centre
RA&HS Show
Spring Show
To be Advised
Wayville Show Grounds
Enfield Community Centre
Sarcochilus Dinner Enfield Community Centre
A Member of the Australian Orchid Council Inc.
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OCSA
December 2014