Item 59, May - Ben Kinmont Bookseller

Item 59, May
2
2
Corn Pone
Choice receipts, Hartford, 1872
p. 15
Receipt for boiling Potatoes
The Farmer’s Magazine, Edinburgh, 1801–10
p. 25
Purslan Sallet
May, The Accomplisht cook, London, 1660
p. 73
Scotch Collopps
Martha Smith, Manuscript, 1655– c.1697
p. 66
A Sallet of green Pease
Rabisha, The Whole body of cookery, London, 1661
p. 94
Pigeons
The Young woman’s companion, Manchester, 1811
p. 118
Cæpe
Platina, De honesta voluptate et valetudine, Venice, 1517
p. 88
Cranberry Sherbet
Mrs. Johnstone’s cook book, Butte, 1911
p. 46
To fry Smelts
Martin, The New experienced English-housekeeper,
Doncaster, 1795
p. 70
Thin Cream Pan-cakes, call’d a Quire of Paper
Kettilby, A Collection of above three hundred recipes,
London, 1714
p. 50
To dress a Dish of Lobsters
Shakleford, The Modern art of cookery, 1767
p. 107
Spanish Shortcake
The Los Angeles Times Cook Book, No. 2, 1905
p. 112
CATALOGUE THIRTEEN
1
Bread Making & Distribution
(ACTS & ORDINANCES: Bread.) A Collection of fifteen French acts and ordinances concerning bread, flour, and grain. 1769–1794.
Preserved in a green quarter-morocco clamshell box over
marbled boards.
$3500.00
AN EXTRAORDINARY COLLECTION of the laws and
regulations governing bread-making, distribution, and selling in
France as well as the controls around flour and grain production. All are extremely rare: only one is to be found in OCLC
(one location only), all but one are first editions, and many are
stitched as issued. A wonderful picture of bread making and
distribution in late 18th-century France.
Full list available upon request.
In a Handsome Contemporary Black Morocco Binding
2 (ACTS & ORDINANCES: Tobacco, wine,
salted fish, meats, and butter, etc.) Ordonnances de Louis XIV. Roy de France et de
Navarre, sur le fait des gabelles & des aydes.
Données à saint Germain en Laye aux mois de
May & Juin 1680. Paris: François Muguet, 1690.
Bound with:
Ordonnance de Louis XIV…. Pour servir de
règlement sur plusieurs droits des ses fermes,
& sur tous en général. Donnée à Versailles le
22. Juillet 1681. Paris: François Muguet, 1691.
[]
16mo. in 4s and 8s. Woodcut title page devices. 144 pp.; 192 pp.
Contemporary black morocco, spine gilt, gilt fillet around
sides, black morocco doublures framed with gilt dentelles,
pastepaper free endpapers, all edges gilt. $4500.00
The extremely rare Second Editions of these two ordinances
from the court of Louis XIV of which neither the first nor
second editions are known to exist in American libraries. The
first editions are known in two locations only (the Bibliotheque Interuniversitaire Cujas, Paris, and one at Keio Univeristy, Japan) and the second editions are in the Bibliotheque
Nationale (Arsenal) and the Rijksuniversiteit Groningen only.
The Ordonnances of May and June of 1680 cover the sale
of salt and its use in preserving fish, meat, and butter. The
second Ordonnance of 22 July 1681 discusses the sale and consumption of fish, the rights to the sale of wine, the sale of
tobacco, and regulations around the sale of gold and silver.
This is a particularly handsome copy in an unusual contemporary binding. With the leather bookplate of Kilian Fritsch, the well-known 20th-century collector of wine books, on
verso of the upper free endpaper.
¶ Not in Vicaire.
3
ALLETZ, Pons Augustin. L’Agronome, ou,
dictionnaire portatif du cultivateur. Lyon: Robert
et Gauthier, 1803.
8vo. Woodcut vignettes on title pages. xxxii, 484 pp.; 2 p.l.,
503 pp. Two volumes. Contemporary tree-calf, spines richly gilt
with lettering pieces in red and black morocco, one wormhole
to the upperboard of vol. I and two to the lowerboard of vol.
II, a few leaves with marginal dampstaining in vol. II, otherwise crisp and clean throughout.
$800.00
A lovely copy of the last and most complete edition of this
guide to country living written by Pons Augustin Alletz
[]
(1705?–1785). The first edition was published in 1760. MussetPathay, in his Bibliographie Agronomique, notes that L’Agronome “est
très-complète, et contient toutes les connaissances nécessaires
pour gouverner avantageusement les biens de la campagne,
d’après la pratique des agronomes les plus célèbres” (no. 32,
referring to the first edition). Arranged alphabetically, the
work contains many recipes as well as information on what was
then a rapidly developing rural economy.
A handsome copy in tree-calf and with spines richly gilt.
¶ This edition is not in OCLC.
A Fine Copy, Uncut and in Original Boards
4 ANDERSON, James. Essays relating to agriculture and rural affairs. The fifth edition, with
corrections and additions. London: Printed
for G. G., J. Robinson, and J. Cumming, 1800.
8vo. Twenty-three engraved plates (three of which are folding). Three volumes. xxiii, [1], 591 pp.; xxviii, 473, [7] pp.; lvi,
[2], 528 pp. Original blue boards, paper spines with title in
manuscript and volume number printed, entirely untrimmed.
$1000.00
A later, corrected and expanded edition. James Anderson was
born in 1739 at Hermiston, a village near Edinburgh. His parents died when he was only fifteen years old at which time he
took over the family farm. After attending courses at Edinburgh University, in 1777 he reclaimed a 1,300 acre farm at
Monkshill which he successfully revived in a period of six
years. He was a writer who was less interested in the new agricultural chemistry emerging during his day than he was in the
practical knowledge gained by years of farming experience.
He married twice, had thirteen children, and eventually died
in 1808 in Isleworth.
[]
Essays relating to agriculture and rural affairs (first ed.: 1775) was
Anderson’s first work. Sections discuss inclosures and fences (including much on making hedges); draining bogs and swamps;
how to plant grass and make hay; the nutrition offered by
various plants to farm animals; animal husbandry and the
production of wool; pastures and the different types of grasses; legal and economic impediments to the cultivation of the
land; and the corn laws of Great Britain.
The numerous engravings include a lovely series depicting different grasses, finely drawn and representing more than
fifteen types.
A wonderful copy in original state. With the contemporary
ownership signature of William Trabyan of Ashburton dated
23 December 1800 in each volume.
¶ See Fussell, vol. II, Old Farming Books, pp. 104–7, 132, and 135
for more on Anderson.
5
ARBUTHNOT, John. Essai sur la nature, et
le choix des alimens, suivant les différentes constitutions. Paris: la Veuve Cavelier & Fils, 1755.
12mo. xxiv, 330, [6] pp. Contemporary marbled-calf, spine gilt,
marbled endpapers, marbled edges, bright and crisp throughout.
$500.00
A particularly fine copy of the second French edition of
Arbuthnot’s (1667–1735) study of diet and its treatment for
various maladies. This is a translation by Pierre Boyer de Prébandier of the second English edition of 1732 (which was the
first to include “The practical rules of diet”). The first French
edition appeared in 1741 (of which our edition may simply be
a second issue). At the beginning is an explanation of the
various chemical terms used, followed by an anaylsis of vegetable and meat foodstuffs and dietary rules and recommendations for various ailments.
Arbuthnot was a friend of Jonathan Swift and was doctor
to Queen Anne.
¶ OCLC: National Library of Medicine, University of Chicago, Transylvania University (KY), and Indiana University.
6
ATHENAEUS. The Deipnosophists or the
banquet of the learned…literally translated by
C. D. Yonge, B.A. with an appendix of poetical fragments, rendered into English verse by
various authors, and a general index. London:
Henry G. Bohn, 1854.
8vo. Three volumes. vi, 432 pp.; 2 p.l., 433–815, [1] pp.; 2 p.l.,
[817]–1252 pp. Each vol. is preceded and followed by a publisher’s catalogue. Original blind-stamped blue cloth, spines
slightly sunned, crisp and clean internally.
$725.00
[]
[]
The First English Edition of this culinary classic from antiquity,
covering table manners, nutrition, cookery, eating, and drinking.
A good copy.
7
Of Figs and Flowers
[BALLON & GARNIER.] Traité complet de
la culture du figuier…suivi d’un petit traité de
la culture de différent fleurs. Paris: Lamy, 1782.
12mo. Woodcut head and tailpieces. 5 p.l., 164, [4] pp. Contemporary mottled-calf, marbled endpapers, edges stained red,
some faint dampstaining on the final signatures. $2500.00
Possibly the FIRST EDITION (see below) of this early treatise on raising figs and flowers. Chapters discuss different types
of figs; planting location; espalier methods; pruning and trellising; preservation in winter; ripening; and the best uses of
figs. The section on flowers has chapters on the order of flowers
during the year; particularly rare varieties; and sections on specific types including tulips, oeillets (a small yellow flower), anemones, oreille d’ours (or “lamb’s ears”), tuberoses, and ranunculus.
Regarding the edition: on a preliminary leaf there is a “certificat” testifying to the usefulness of the Traité; interestingly,
it is dated 30 May 1692, nearly 100 years earlier than our title
page date. It should be noted, however, that typographically,
the Traité appears to have been printed sometime at the end
of the 17th century, excepting the title page. It is, therefore,
our guess that our copy is either the first edition reissued with a
new title page or the actual first edition as we have been unable
to locate an earlier edition.
The attribution to Ballon and Garnier, both royal gardeners,
is taken from OCLC; in the “Le Libraire au Lecture” we learn
that they were responsible for reviewing the texts. Another
possible author, however, might be Pierre Morin (1650–1690).
“Le Libraire au Lecture” also states that the author of the Traité
[]
is the same author that wrote a work on “Les Orangers & les
Citronniers;” Morin wrote a work entitled Nouveau traité des
orangers et citronniers, 1692, the same date as the “certificat.”
A good copy of a very rare book.
¶ OCLC: Davis and two in Europe. Not in the Bibliotheque Nationale or RLIN.
8
The First Illustrated Edition
[BARBE, Simon.] Le Parfumeur françois, qui
enseigne toutes les manières de tirer les odeurs
des fleurs; & de faire toutes sortes de compositions de parfums. Avec le secret de purger le
tabac en poudre; & le parfumer de toutes sortes
d’odeurs. Amsterdam: Paul Marret, 1696.
12mo. Engraved frontispiece, title page in red and black. 24
p.l., 170, [20 – including the final blank] pp. Modern vellum,
careful paper repair to K4 affecting two words. $4000.00
The First Illustrated Edition of Barbe’s classic in French perfumery (first ed.: 1693). “Simon Barbe lived in the rue des
Gravilliers, Paris, at the sign of the Golden Fleece, where he
was in business as a perfumer. From its generally elevated
tone his first book was clearly intended for the interest of the
court, the aristocracy and the country gentry….” — Kennett,
History of Perfume, p. 158.
Included are sections for powders, wash-balls, essences and
oils perfumed with flowers, perfumes for the mouth, sweet
waters, incense, perfumed gloves, color mixing, and snuff. The
engraved frontispiece depicts two elegantly attired customers,
complete with lap-dog, in a perfume shop.
¶ OCLC & NUC record one location only at Univ. of
Kentucky Lib. Not in Wiggishoff.
[]
9
With an Illustration of the Saccharometer
THE BREWER: a familiar treatise on the art
of brewing. London: Loftus, 1856.
8vo. One full-page illustration and two printed tables in the
text. 2 p.l. (of advertisements), 192 pp. Original gilt and blindstamped cloth, lightly rubbed and spotted, some minor spotting throughout. $750.00
The FIRST EDITION of this comprehensive study of brewing beer and ale followed by a section on wine-making. Chapters include how to brew India Pale Ale and Porter, cask maintenance, bottling, affordable brewing methods, and how to
make cider. This is followed by several short sections on making more than thirty types of wine from various fruits (and
even one vegetable: parsnips). The work then closes with nine
sections giving directions on how to use various beer and winemaking apparatus, including the illustrated saccharometer.
A good copy.
¶ OCLC: California State University (Fresno), University
of Delaware, New York Public Library, Anheuser-Busch Library, University of Waterloo, and two locations in Europe.
10
Milk’s Nutritional Value
BRUNETIÈRE DESROCHETTES, Joseph
Aimé Ambroise. [Drop-Title:] Tentamen ChimicoMedicum de Lacte. Montpellier: Martel, 1773.
4to. 17 pp. Modern boards.
Item 8, Barbe
$900.00
The extremely rare FIRST EDITION of Brunetière Desrochettes’ dissertation on milk and its chemistry. Sections also
discuss milk’s medicinal uses and nutritive properties.
[]
¶ OCLC records two copies only: National Library of
Medicine and the Wellcome Institute to which should be
added a copy and University of Minnesota. Not in any of the
usual gastronomic bibliographies.
11
An “Authoritative Work for Gardeners,
Cooks, and Gourmets”
BRYANT, Charles. Flora diaetetica: or history
of esculent plants, both domestic and foreign.
London: B. White, 1783.
8vo. xvii, 379, [13] pp. Contemporary tree-calf, spine richly
gilt in six compartments, red morocco label in the second
compartment, the other compartments alternating a small
gilt sun within an oval and a gilt floral oval tool in the center, each compartment surrounded by dog tooth roll pattern,
additional floral and star tools in each corner, expertly rebacked laying down the original spine, marbled end-papers.
$2000.00
FIRST EDITION. Charles Bryant (d. 1799) was a keen naturalist and an excellent and industrious practical botanist who
made a special study of the works of Linnaeus. He authored
three botanical books, this being his second and most important. It fully describes all of the esculent plants, domestic
and foreign, including their history, use, physical properties,
and places of growth, along with their varieties and unique
individual characteristics. All of the foods are classified into
one of ten categories: roots, shoots & stalks, leaves, flowers,
berries, stone-fruit, apples, legumens, grain, nuts, and fungi.
“Johannes Salberg’s rather cursory Latin thesis on food
plants [Fructus esculenti, 1763, Linnaeus as praeses]…and the prodding of a pharmacist friend motivated Charles Bryant of Norwich to work on a detailed, authoritative work for gardeners,
cooks, and gourmets. He thought it ‘unlearned…for people in
[  ]
a high station of life, to converse about their fruits…under
the barbarous names that many have heard them called by.
The fruit chapters in his Flora diaetetica…describe many species
and some cultivars often at length and comment on their taste.”
– Janson, Pomona’s Harvest, p. 199.
A particularly handsome copy. With the early ownership
signature of P. Lloyd Fletcher.
¶ Bitting p. 65; Blake p. 69; Henrey, II, p. 115–17; Pritzel 1301;
Stafleu & Cowan 858.
12
A Miller-Baker Bent on Reform
BUCQUET, César. Traité-pratique de la conservation des grains, des farines, et des études
domestiques. Paris: Onfroy et Belin, 1783.
Bound with:
[BEQUILLET, Edme.] Observations sur la
boulangerie. [Paris: Lambert & Baudouin, 1783.]
8vo. Two large folding engraved plates, woodcut head and
tailpieces. 2 p.l., xvi, 74 pp.; 2 p.l., 146, [2] pp. Contemporary
mottled-calf, spine gilt, red morocco lettering pieces on spine,
coat of arms stamped on the upper spine, marbled endpapers.
$4500.00
The FIRST EDITION, and a very fine copy, of these two
studies of flour conservation and bread-making, the first by
César Bucquet, the second by Edme Béquillet. “Though they
focused on milling, both Béquillet and Bucquet…conceived
of the system as a total, vertically integrated project that began with the harvest and the conditioning and preparation of
grain for sale and continued through to the stage of bread
making and distribution, with a special emphasis on the local,
regional, and international flour trade.” – Kaplan, Provisioning
Paris, 1984, p. 460. The Observations sur la boulangerie by Béquil-
[  ]
let is addressed to Parmentier and Cadet de Vaux, who had
established the first baking school five years earlier in Paris
and with whom both Béquillet and Bucquet were fierce rivals.
The large folding engraved plates depict a building specially designed to dry grain. One view is of its floor plan; the
other as an elevation, and shows two men working on different levels, moving the grain around. On the spine is the
gilt-stamped coat of arms of La Rochefoucauld and on the
title page is the library stamp of Chateau de La Roche Guyon.
¶ OCLC: Harvard, Hagley Museum & Library (DE),
University of Chicago, Thomas Fisher Rare Book Library
(Canada), and three in Europe (note that most OCLC copies
lack the Béquillet). For more on Bucquet and an interesting
discussion of his relation to the emergence of scientific baking, see Kaplan’s The Bakers of Paris.
13
What Gives Wine Its Taste?
CARLES, Le docteur P[aulin]. Le bouquet
naturel des vins et eaux-de-vie. Bordeaux: Feret
et Fils & Paris: Libraires Associés, 1897.
8vo. 20 pp. followed by [4] pp. of advertisements. Original
printed wrappers. $1500.00
Item 12, Bucquet
The extremely rare FIRST & ONLY EDITION of this study
of the bouquet of various wines and eaux-de-vie. Doctor
Paulin Carles was a professor of medicine and pharmacy in
Bordeaux and in the current work, he tries to respond to the
professional tasters of Bordeaux who would like to know what
it is that determines a wine’s bouquet. Is it the skin of the wines,
the fermentation process, the wine’s age? Le bouquet naturel tries
to unlock these mysteries.
A very good copy in original state.
¶ Chwartz, vol. II, p. 23; Fritisch 141; and Simon, Vinaria,
p. 71. Not in OCLC.
[  ]
14
Potatoes to Flour
CHALLAN, Antoine Didier Jean Baptiste.
Rapport fait a la séance publique de la société
royale et centrale d’agriculture, le 29 mars 1818,
sur…la culture des pommes de terre, la préparation et l’emploi de leurs produits, l’invention
ou le perfectionnement des machines propres à les convertir en farine. Paris: Madame
Huzard, 1818.
8vo 139 pp. Original blue wrappers, untrimmed, a crisp and
bright copy.
$800.00
The FIRST SEPARATE EDITION of Challan’s (1754–1831)
report to the Société Royale et Centrale d’Agriculture concerning potato cultivation, what to do with them, and the
invention of machines necessary to convert the potatoes to
flour. The report was presented to Labbé, Dubois, Petit de
Beauverger, Sageret, Vilmorin, & Yvart (the commissioners of
the Société) and is an extract from the Société’s Mémoires (published earlier in the same year).
In extremely fine condition.
¶ OCLC: USC, Washington Univ., and two in Europe. Not
in Binder, Die Brotnahrung: Auswahl-Bibliographie zu ihrer Geschichte
und Bedeutung. Bitting, Cagle, Simon, or Vicaire.
15
A Portable Flour Mill
CHARLEMAGNE, Armand. Instructions sur
l’usage des moulins a bras. Paris: Blanchon, 1793.
8vo. One woodcut, one folding printed table, and one folding
engraved plate. 16, 71 pp. Antique red quarter-morocco over
red paste paper boards, green vellum tips, black morocco label
on spine, untrimmed.
$1000.00
[  ]
FIRST EDITION. The rare first edition of Charlemagne’s
(1753–1838) description of the assembly, use, and care of a hand
operated mill designed by Durand, pere et fils, Mécaniciens.
The mill was intended for the grinding of various grains (including wheat, lentils, peas, beans, rice, coffee, and corn) and
was particularly useful due to its portability. One chapter
testifies to its usefulness in San Domingo for the grains particular to that region.
The folding printed table lists the mill’s various uses, degrees
of fineness in the milled product, and general observations on
grinding grains. The folding engraving depicts the moulin à
bras in two different views.
On the last page is a bookseller pastedown slip: “A Paris,
Chez Madame Huzard, Imprimeur-Libraire, rue de l’Éperon
Saint-André-des-Arts No. 7.”
¶ OCLC: Cornell Univ., New York Public Library, & one
in Europe. Not in Binder, Die Brotnahrung: Auswahl-Bibliographie
zu ihrer Geschichte und Bedeutung, Bitting, Cagle, or Vicaire.
16
The First Conneticut Community Cookbook
CHOICE RECEIPTS, selected from the best
manuscript authorities. [Hartford: Worthington, Duston & Co.], 1872.
8vo. 66 pp. Original gilt-stamped green cloth, some staining
to lower board and spine, corners and head and tail of spine
rubbed, light spotting throughout, hole on pp. 49/50 affecting a few words & in the gutter of pp. 51/52.$500.00
The FIRST EDITION of the first Conneticut community
cookbook (see Cook, America’s charitable cooks, p. 40). Recipes
range from Philadelphia Ice-cream to Corn Pone to Pop Overs
(which are to be served with a wine sauce).
“The Publishers take pleasure in assuring the public, from
their personal experience, that every dish compounded accord-
[  ]
ssssssssssssssssssss
ing to these receipts, is fit to invite a king to.” At the end is
listed eight suggested menus.
¶ OCLC: New York Public Library, University of Denver,
Trinity College (CT), University of Iowa, and the Wellcome
Institute.
Corn Pone
Sift about one quart of corn flour; make a thin batter, adding by degrees spoonfuls of clabber [similar to
yogurt], beating it all the time one way; add three or
four eggs, well beaten, a teaspoonful of salt, and one
of soda, dissolved in a little warm milk; grease the pans
well; then sprinkle corn meal thickly over the buttered
parts before putting in the batter.
Item 16, Choice receipts, Hartford, 1872
ssssssssssssssssssss
A Poem to Champagne for Madame Veuve Clicquot
17 COFFIN, Charles. Le vin de Champagne. Paris:
Didot, 1825.
8vo. Title page vignette and two vignettes in the text. 15 pp.
Original illustrated yellow wrappers, light soiling to the upper
wrapper. $1500.00
The extremely rare First French Edition of Charles Coffin’s
poem Campania vindicata, first published in Latin in 1712. The
poem is in praise of Champagne and was composed in the
context of a debate between supporters of wine from Burgundy
versus Champagne. Our issue reprints the original Latin with
the French on facing pages.
The current edition is of special interest because it was
translated by the Comte de Chevigné as an hommage to his
mother-in-law, the famous Veuve Clicquot-Ponsardin; Chevigné had married her daughter Clémentine in 1817.
¶ OCLC: Cambridge University only. Not in Chwartz,
Fritsch or any of the Simon bibliographies.
18
A Poem of Table Manners for Children
LES CONTENANCES DE LA TABLE.
Lyon: Pierre Mareschal & Barnabé Chaussard,
c.1503. [Sebastopol: Ben Kinmont, Bookseller
& Bernard Quaritch, Ltd, 2006.]
8vo. Four leaves of facsimile, with large woodcut letter “L”
and a woodcut printer’s device on title, and thirty-six pages
of commentary and translation.
Twenty deluxe large-paper copies printed on mouldmade paper
bound in full red morocco: $900.00 each
Eighty copies in half-morocco over marbled boards:
$500.00 each
From the Introduction: “Les Contenances de la table presents a
rare glimpse into the everyday life of late medieval and early
Renaissance households. Many of the behaviors proscribed in
this text on table manners may tend to reinforce stereotypes
of culinary savagery and barbaric eating practices in the Middle Ages. However, the detailed, poetically rendered advice on
how to behave – or how not to behave – handily puts such
stereotypes into question. Given the clear resonance between
bits of advice uttered in verse over five centuries ago and common reprimands about behavior passed around the modern
table, we can begin to see how little distance separates us from
our medieval counterparts. A book both for children and for
adults, Les Contenances de la table remains a precious testimony of
the past of interest to literary critics, historians, sociologists,
and rare book enthusiasts alike.”
This facsimile is accompanied by an introduction and translation by Timothy Tomasik, a specialist in French 16th-century
culinary history. Patrick Reagh has designed and printed the
book in letterpress in a limited edition of 100 copies.
[  ]
19
DESLYONS, Jean. Traitez singuliers et nouveaux contre le paganisme du Roy-Boit. Paris:
C. Savreux, 1670.
12mo. 28 p.l., 346 pp. Contemporary calf, spine gilt, red morocco lettering piece, head of spine restored, joints cracked
but strong, corners bumped.
$1000.00
The FIRST EDITION of Jean Deslyons’ (1615–1700) second
diatribe against banqueting written in answer to Nicolas Barthelemy’s Apologie du banquet sanctifié de la veille des Rois (1664).
Separated into three sections, Deslyons first discusses fasting,
second the Saturnales of the ancients, and third the superstition of Phoebus. For Deslyons the time of Epiphany was one for
prayer and dedication to God; it was not a time for carnival.
¶ Fritsch 484; Oberlé 496; OCLC: UCLA, USC, Yale,
Indiana University, Harvard, Cleveland Pub. Library, Brigham
Young University, and Oxford; Simon Gastronomica 485; Vicaire
col. 272.
“Decidedly the Best Work on Tillage
in the English Language”
20 DICKSON, Adam. A treatise of agriculture.
A new edition. Edinburgh: A. Kincaid, J. Bell,
T. Longman, & T. Caddel, 1770.
8vo. Two folding plates. Two volumes. 4 p.l., lxv, 487 pp.; 4 p.l.,
564 pp. Contemporary calf. $1000.00
Adam Dickson “was born in 1721, and took his M.A. at Edinburgh. He became Minister at Dunse in 1750, and although
a lawsuit about the legality of his presentation was entered,
remained there till 1769, when he was made Incumbent of
Whittinghame, E. Lothian, till he died as a result of a fall
from a horse in 1776. A country clergyman must be interested
[  ]
in farming, and Dickson came from E. Lothian, where the
improvement of Scottish agriculture began in his youth….
Dickson, who had discussed farming with his father’s neighbors as a young man, maintained that English farming books
were not suited to the soil and climate of Scotland, and made
a strong onslaught upon Tull’s theories of plant nutrition, while
he admitted that Tull’s system of drilling and horse-hoeing was
the best method of cultivating turnips and potatoes. J. C.
Loudon in 1825, a brother Scot, estimated the book as ‘decidedly the best work on tillage which has appeared in the English
language, and was and still is held in universal esteem among
the practical farmers of Scotland.’” – Fussell, Old English Farming Books, vol. I, pp. 55–6.
With the early engraved armorial bookplate of “Hon. George
Baillie Esq. one of the Lords of the Treasury” with his signature on each title page.
A fine copy.
21
An Unrecorded Work in Woman’s Education
DIDRICHSEN, D. Die Hausmutter im Mittelstande. Copenhagen: Friedrich Brummer, 1802.
12mo. 3 p.l., vi, 114 pp. Contemporary light orange boards.
$2000.00
The extremely rare FIRST & ONLY EDITION of this handbook for the young mother on how to run a household. Sections discuss her relationship to the fatherland, to her children,
and to herself as well as her general responsibilities towards
her gardens, orchards, and the kitchen. Other sections cover
the specifics of baking, making beer, the wash, and domestic
economy with the culinary chapters including information on
ingredients, preparations, and equipment needed.
A very good copy. With a lovely early ornate engraved bookplate “Ex Bibliotheca Serenissimae Domus Saxo-Isenacensis”
[  ]
on the upper pastedown; on the upper free endpaper is the
library stamp of Rolf Dittmar.
¶ Not in OCLC, RLIN, or Weiss.
Snow in Wine
22 [DUREY D’HARNONCOURT, Pierre.]
Dissertation sur l’usage de boire a la glace. Paris:
Valleyre, 1762.
12mo. Woodcut device on title page. viii, 31 pp. Recent halfcalf over marbled boards, lettered in gilt on spine, edges
stained red. $2500.00
The extremely rare FIRST & ONLY EDITION of this discussion of the benefits and pleasures of chilled drinks. After preparing a dinner for nine or ten friends, Durey d’Harnoncourt
tells of the effect of placing ice in his wine and water: “quel
usage singulier! qu’il est extraordinaire! Quelle sensualité!” His
guests, however, found the chilling of their drinks to be scandalous and so the author decided to write the following essay
to explain the history and purpose behind using ice to refresh
one’s drink.
In his Dissertation, Durey d’Haroncourt discusses the history of iced drinks in hot climate regions (mentioning Greece,
Asia, China, India, Persia, and Egypt); the ways in which iced
drinks can refresh the mind and body; how doctors throughout the ages have used cold drinks to great effect; and the
different ways liquid was chilled and the containers used (e.g
pewter, stoneware, and leather, which the Persians flavored
with rose water).
Much of his research is based upon travel accounts from
the 17th and 18th centuries and writers such as “Le fameux
Médecin Bernier” who wrote from Deli in 1663 about having
been served drinks chilled through the use of saltpeter. François Bernier (1625–1688) was personal physician to the Mu-
[  ]
ghal emperor (see Wikipedia). Durey d’Haroncourt also talks
about Kircher’s study of saltpeter in his Mundus Subterraneous
and the irony that the same material that produces fire can
produce ice; the way in which different cultures will sometimes
place snow in their wine; and how a doctor in Lyon cured the
a mysterious ailment of the stomach of a nun with the use of
a special iced drink.
A very good copy of an interesting book.
¶ OCLC: two locations in Europe only. There is no known
location in American libraries.
23
From Brandy to Gold
ELSHOLTZ, Johann Sigismund. Destillatoria
curiosa, sive ratio ducendi liquores coloratos per alembicum, hactenus si non ignota,
certe minus observata atque cognita. Berlin:
Völcker, 1674.
12mo. Two engraved plates and one small woodcut in the text.
6 p.l., 176 pp. Contemporary polished-calf, spine richly gilt,
red morocco lettering piece on spine, upper board giltstamped with a coat of arms, the lower board gilt-stamped
“M.r Bronnier de la Mosson” within a gilt border. $5000.00
I. The FIRST EDITION of Elsholtz’ study of distillation,
one of the oldest processes used to produce chemically pure
substances. From applied chemistry to culinary purposes,
distillation is a process where at least two compounds are
separated due to their different boiling points. The higher the
vapor pressure of a substance (i.e. the lower its boiling point),
the sooner it will begin evaporating leaving behind the compound with the higher boiling temperature. The evaporated
substance is then cooled and condensed and thereby separated
from the other compound. In the current work Elsholtz argues that the resulting distillate is due to the type of curcurbit
[  ]
(a gourd-shaped alembic) and furnace used (both pictured in
the engraved plate). The other engraved plate depicts a cinnamon plant.
Johann Sigismund Elsholtz (1623–1688) was physician to the
Elector Frederick William, director of the botanical garden at
Brandenburg, and published books in medicine, botany, cookery, and gardening. In his Clysmatica nova, 1666, he wrote one
of the first descriptions of blood transfusion. The Destillatoria
curiosa was translated into English in 1677.
In a handsome contemporary binding.
Bound with:
BALDUIN, Christian Adolph. Aurum aurae,
vi magnetismi universalis attractum. Berlin:
Völcker, 1674.
12mo. 53, [2] pp.
The Second Edition of Balduin’s “work on the extraction of an
astral gold from the atmosphere by universal magnetism, potable gold, the virtues of the atmospheric gold in the three kingdoms of Nature” (Partington, II, p. 338).
Balduin was born in Saxony (Doebeln) in 1632 and after
studying law, he devoted himself to the study of alchemy. He
was famous for discovering the florescence of calcium nitrate
which is named after him. He was a member of the Academia
Naturae Curiosorum and a fellow of the Royal Society. He
died on New Years Eve, 1682.
¶ I. Ferguson, Bibliotheca Chemica, pp. 237–38; Poggendorff
vol. I, col. 660. Not in Bitting, Cagle, or Vicaire. II. Ferguson,
Bibliotheca Chemica, pp. 67–69.
[  ]
Including Plates of Architectural Food Structures
24 ÉTIENNE. Traité de l’office…avec de beaux
dessins gravés sur acier. Paris: Laignier, 1845–46.
8vo. Seven steel engravings. Two volumes. 4 p.l., 50, 111, [1 blank],
224 [misprinted as “222”] pp.; 2 p.l., iii, [1 blank], 40, 11, [1], 19, [1
blank], 202, 220, [1] pp. Late 19th-century quarter-red morocco
over marbled boards, green vellum tips, marbled endpapers. $8500.00
FIRST EDITION. A very fine copy of an equally rare book
primarily concerned with snacks and desserts. As noted by
Vicaire, Etienne’s Traite de l’office was the most complete work
on the subjects in which it specialized: hors d’oeuvres, salads,
sandwiches, rolls, buns, fruit dishes, cookies, petits fours, pies,
cakes, ice cream, bonbons, syrups, coffee and tea. Secondly, as
an object, ours is the most complete copy we have been able to
locate: most locations record one volume only, and even the
Lilly Library copy (in the Gernon Collection) lacks two plates
and at least two leaves.
“Featuring baroque, labor intensive food structures and
compositions, Etienne’s Traite de l’office was the most complete
work on the subjects in which it specialized: hors d’oeuvres,
salads, fruit dishes, and especially, desserts. Etienne was responsible for creating the large formal banquets and impressive presentations required by his position as chef for the
French ambassador to England, and his recipes reflect this experience. But his book – and similar works published by other
professional chefs – chronicle the era’s increasingly complex
and elevated tastes in food, and the fashion for meticulous
attention to artistic presentation.” – Not by Bread Alone, Cornell
University exhibition catalogue, Kroch Library, 2002.
The handsome plates depict an oven and several others of
ornate tiered serving trays, some of which contain petits fours
and most of which are architectural. A bright copy.
[  ]
¶ Bitting pp. 147–8; Cagle 187; Vicaire, col. 347 – “On trouve
dans ce traité, un des plus complets qui existent sur l’office, les
hors-d’oeuvre, les salades, les desserts, les petits fours, les conserves, etc. Dans le tome II, se trouvent un traité, avec une pagination spéciale pour les glaces et un autre, également spécialement paginé, pour les bonbons.” Not in Horn-Arndt, Maggs,
or Oberlé.
“A Spirit of Enquiry Amongst Agricultural Men”
25 THE FARMER’S MAGAZINE: a periodical
work, exclusively devoted to agriculture, and
rural affairs. Edinburgh: Constable, 1801–10.
8vo. Two engraved frontispiece portraits, twenty-three plates
(five of which are folding), two folding printed tables, and
numerous woodcuts in the text. Eleven volumes. Vols. 1–10
contemporary half-calf over marbled boards, red and/or black
morocco lettering pieces on spines, gilt fillet into six compartments; vol. 11 contemporary full tree-calf, red morocco
lettering piece on spine, spine gilt in six compartments, joints
split but very strong. $2500.00
All FIRST EDITIONS except volume one which is the second edition: a very handsome set. The Farmer’s Magazine was a
quarterly periodical undertaken to “encourage and promote,
as far as possible, a spirit of enquiry and experiment amongst
agricultural men, and to record faithfully the result of such
information as may be communicated to them….Many farmers, from a diffidence of themselves, are withheld from communicating their observations to the public, from an apprehension, that their style and manner of writing are unfit for
publication. In that way, many facts and observations, highly
interesting to society, are either entirely lost, or but very partially known. To such we beg leave to say, that, provided facts,
properly authenticated, and sound observations, are furnished,
[  ]
ssssssssssssssssssss
Receipt for boiling Potatoes
1. The potatoes should be sorted, and those of the
same size dressed together; for it is absurd to suppose, that the potatoes of different sizes can be made
properly ready at one and the same time.
2. Cold water, and not hot, should be put with them
into the pot, so as merely to cover them, as they contain a great quantity of water themselves.
3. When they are boiled, the water should be taken
from them, and the pot should be put again upon
the fire, for some time, to evaporate all the moisture.
4. Either salt water should be used, or a good deal of salt
used with fresh water. Cold water also should occasionally be thrown in, to damp the violence of the
heat, and to prevent the potatoes from being overboiled.
5. They should be served up with the skins on; and
when properly prepared in this manner, may supply
in a great measure the use of bread.
6. If skinned, they should be thoroughly mashed, and
put on a plate into the an oven; and when brought up,
kept hot before the fire, in which state, with melted
butter, they make most delicate eating.
Item 25, The Farmer’s Magazine, Edinburgh, 1801–10
ssssssssssssssssssss
the style of the author will be considered as a matter of inferior
consideration.” – from the Introduction of vol. 1.
The subjects of the articles include how to preserve fruits;
the proper size of a farm; flax cultivation in England and Russia; newly invented farm machinery (e.g. the Double Turnip
Plow); accounts of American husbandry; recommendations to
cottagers on keeping a cow; how to convert grass lands to tillage
without exhausting the soil; the corn trade and corn laws; the
restrictions on farming near London; wheat cultivation; sheep
and cattle management; “Thoughts on the Management of
Dung;” potato cultivation in the Highlands and “On Steaming
Potatoes;” the cultivation of kelp; distillery; farm buildings;
and on the education of farmers. Numerous book reviews are
also included.
This is a complete run of the first eleven years; the periodical
ran until 1825. From the library of Lewis Dunbar Brodie of
Burgie with his contemporary dated signature on vols. 1–10. Vol.
10 also contains the binder’s ticket “Bound by J. Forsyth, Elgin.”
A handsome set.
Asparagus
26 FILLASSIER, Jean Jacques. Culture de la grosse
asperge…. Nouvelle édition, revue et corrigée.
Amsterdam: Méquignon, 1788.
12mo. 2 p.l., 151, [1] pp. Original blue wrappers, stitched as
issued, crisp and untrimmed. $850.00
Second edition (first ed.: 1779) of Fillasier’s rare study of asparagus cultivation. The first 70 pages are devoted to a history of
asparagus studies, with references to Bauhin, Gesner, Fuchs, and
Gerard (amongst numerous others) as well as early plant catalogues and famous gardens of the time. Fillasier (c.1736–c.1806)
then continues with specifics concerning asparagus cultiva-
[  ]
tion, its best terrain, how to deal with adverse soil conditions,
when and how to plant, harvesting, and fertilizing. For recipes,
he recommends Buc’hoz’s Manuel alimentaire for instructions on
the asparagus’ use in omelettes, ragouts, in a cream sauce, in its
own juices, in butter, in soup, and with peas. A very rare book
on a delightful subject.
¶ NUC: DNAL only; Oberlé 696. Not in Bitting, Cagle,
Simon, or Vicaire.
In Praise of Salami
27 FRIZZI, Antonio. La Salameide, poemetto
giocoso con le note. Venice: G. Zerletti, 1772.
8vo. Engraved frontispiece and engraved title page. 4 p.l.,
cxxxv pp. Contemporary boards, title in manuscript on spine,
entirely untrimmed, two early library stamps appear in the margin of the title page and on the final leaf.
$2000.00
The FIRST EDITION of Frizzi’s (1736–1800) famous burlesque poem to salami. Sections describe the history of salamis as well as the various types produced: cotechino, salami
di fegato di Ferrara, zampone di Modena, salami all’aglio di
Firenze, Lucca and Verona, cervellato di Milano, mortadella di
Bologna, etc., etc.
The handsome engraved frontispiece depicts a customer
inspecting a salami while above his head hang various cured
meats; in the background a man cleans a wild boar which is
strung up by its hooves. There were four later editions plus one
reprint in Ferrara in 1983.
A very good copy in original state.
¶ B.IN.G. 852; Paleari-Henssler p. 310; Simon Gastronomica
1342; Westbury p. 197.
[  ]
A Monument to the Chateaux of Bordeaux
28 GALARD, Gustave. Album vignicole de la
Gironde. Bordeaux: Maggi, [1835].
Folio. Forty-four lithographs (of forty-eight) laid-in original
printed wrappers. A few plates dampstained, one has a small
hole in the image, another with two very small holes in the
margins (both in livraison five), occasional spotting. Two of
the wrappers are printed on white paper; nine on light purple
paper, and the final livraison twelve on bright green paper. The
wrappers are untrimmed. $25,000.00
Item 27, Frizzi
A REMARKABLE DISCOVERY. This collection of lithographs of the viticultural regions of Bordeaux is something we
have been searching for for years. Only once have we ever seen
a collection of these lithographs and that set was lacking nearly
half of those issued. The collection we are offering includes
44 of the prints as well as all twelve of the lithographed wrappers. Among the 44 views include are those of Chateau Lafite;
Chateau de Segur & Garamey; Chateau de la Grange, Cos
d’Estournelle; Chateau Haut Brion; Domaine de Mr. J.B.
Lanoire; and Château d’Yquem (and that is only from the first
two livraisons, or parts).
This album should be seen as a precursor to the famous
early photographic album of Bordeaux by Alfred Danflou.
Entitled Les Grands Crus Bordelais, it was published in 1866 and
then in an expanded form in 1867. While the Danflou is also
rare, the Album vignicole is only known to a few who have perhaps
seen it once, or just heard about it. There is no copy located
in OCLC.
Gustave Galard (1789–1841) was descendent from an important family from Gascogne. After traveling to the Antilles
island of St. Thomas and then England, Switzerland, Spain,
and the United States (where he settled in Philadelphia in
1800), he moved to Bordeaux, where his mother was from. It
[  ]
was on a trip to Paris in 1815 that he was introduced to lithography and subsequently published several lithographic collections, of which this was his last. He was a self-taught artist
who known for his illustrations, miniatures, portraits, and caricatures (one of which landed him in jail for his portrayal of
Louis Philippe).
The lithographs are printed on papier de Chine, drawn by
Galard, and printed by Légé of Bordeaux. On the verso of
two livraisons is pasted an engraved receipt for the purchase of
that particular livraison as well as a description of how one could
purchase and subscribe to the Album.
A very good set of this early monument to viticultural history.
From the collection of Bernard Chwartz (see vol. 3 of his
library catalogue for reproductions and a complete list of the
lithographs included).
¶ Not in Bitting, Cagle, OCLC, Simon, or Vicaire.
“A Systematic Survey of Foodstuffs”
29 GALEN. Della natura et vertu di cibi in Italiano.
Tradotto dal Greco per Hieronimo Sachetto
Medico Bresciano. Opera ad ogn’uno per conservarsi in sanità utilissima e necessaria. Venice:
Giovanni Bariletto, 1562.
8vo. Large woodcut printer’s device on title (repeated on verso
of final leaf), woodcut initials, and one woodcut headpiece.
8 p.l., 96 ll. Twentieth-century half-vellum over boards, light fingering on title page, occasional marginal spotting. $7500.00
The First Italian Edition of De alimentorum facultatibus, a fundamental text of Western dietetics and one of the earliest works
on foodstuffs. It had first appeared in 1523 in Thomas Lina-
[  ]
cre’s Latin translation – a virtually unobtainable book. Simon
de Collines published another Latin edition in 1530, but this is
the first Italian edition.
“[Galen] settled in Rome in 164 [A.D.]. There he practiced,
lectured on anatomy and medicine, and wrote voluminously….
He moved in the highest society, and was appointed personal
physician to the future emperor Commodus. Correct diet was
essential for health, in the ancient view. Galen’s medical works
therefore include several on food and nutrition, notably On the
properties of foods. This is a systematic survey of foodstuffs….
As the earliest such manual that survives, Galen’s work can be
seen to have had a strong influence on all later ones, not only
in medieval times but down to the present day in those parts
of the world where humoral theory still helps to determine diet.
But it is also a fascinating source of food history, for Galen
was a fluent writer who never lost the opportunity to reminisce
on country ways in Asia Minor, on student life in Alexandria,
or on fine foods and wine-tastings in Rome” – Alan Davidson,
The Oxford Companion to Food p. 329.
In the dedication to the Bishop of Tortona the translator
Girolamo Sacchetti stresses the necessity of a vernacular version of this text and discusses the difficulties with classical
Greek words for plants, animals and foodstuffs.
A good copy of an important book.
¶ B.IN.G. 870; Durling 1858; Simon, Bibliotheca Bacchica 363;
Wellcome 2558; Westbury p. 109; not in Adams, Cagle,
Bitting, Vicaire, or NUC; OCLC: University of California
(Los Angeles), Harvard, National Library of Medicine, University of North Carolina (Chapel Hill), Cornell, Huntington,
Folger, Yale, New York Academy of Medicine, and two locations in Europe.
[  ]
A Remarkable Collection of Early English Gardening
30 (GARDENING.) A fine and attractive collection of five early 18th-century English gardening
books, all first editions, bound in a single volume.
8vo. Contemporary calf, spine gilt, dark green morocco lettering piece on spine “Tracts on Gardening,” small portion of head
of spine chipped, double fillets around boards, slightly rubbed.
$12,000.00
ALL FIRST EDITIONS of an incredible collection of works
on gardening, bound for the Cartwright family of Aynho,
Northamptonshire, c. 1730. All are in very good condition,
very rare, and beautifully illustrated.
The titles included are: BRADLEY, Richard. The gentleman
and gardeners kalendar. London: Mears, 1718. Bound with: COLLINS, Samuel. Paradise retriev’d. London: John Collins, seedsman, 1717. Bound with: FAIRCHILD, Thomas. The city gardener. London: Woodward, 1722. Bound with: LAURENCE,
John. The fruit-garden kalendar. London: Lintot, 1718. Bound
with: SWITZER, Stephen. The nobleman, gentleman, and gardener’s
recreation. London: Barker, 1715 (lacking the plate).
Full descriptions available on request.
31
In a Lovely Publisher’s Binding
GARNIER, Édouard. Histoire de la verrerie et
de l’émaillerie. Tours: Alfred Mame et fils, 1886.
4to. Eight plates (four of which are in color) and 119 wood
engravings in the text. vii, 573 pp. Original gilt and black stamped
red cloth publisher’s binding, all edges gilt, bright green endpapers, absolutely bright and crisp.
$500.00
Item 30, Gardening
[  ]
The FIRST EDITION of Garnier’s study of the history of
glass and enamel work, beautifully illustrated and in extremely
fine condition. The first half of the book covers glass work
separated into chapters for different eras (antiquity, the middle ages, and the 15th to 19th centuries). The second half discusses enamel work and is similarly broken down according to
period. Regions covered include various countries in Europe
as well as the middle and far east.
A very thorough and interesting work.
Like new.
32
1620 Recipes Printed on Blue Paper
GARTLER, Ignaz & HIKMANN, Barbara.
Wienerisches bewährtes Kochbuch in sechs
Absätzen. Wien: Joseph Gerold, 1812.
8vo. Engraved frontispiece and one plate (“Tab I” & “Tab II”)
on one folding leaf. 3 p.l., 652, [4] pp. Contemporary half-calf
over marbled paper boards, spine gilt, red paper lable on spine,
lightly rubbed, edges stained red.
$1500.00
Item 30, Gardening
An extremely rare edition of Gartler’s well-known Viennese
cookbook; we have been unable to locate a record of the first
edition and all editions are very scarce. (see OCLC, RLIN, and
Weiss). According to Weiss, by 1850 it was in its thirty-eighth
edition. Our edition has been enlarged and updated by Barbara
Hikmann. One thousand six hundred and twenty recipes are
listed followed by an appendix of kitchen rules and guides on
when to prepare which foods.
The engraved frontispiece depicts a woman directing two
other women in the kitchen; the folding plate shows various
cooking apparatus and table settings. On the title page (not
affecting text) is an early ownership stamp in red ink “Golib.
Jes. Liebich.”
¶ Weiss 1179. Not in OCLC or RLIN.
[  ]
33
Chilled Drinks in Classical Times;
One of 125 Copies Printed
GREPPE, J. G. H. Explication d’un passage des
proverbes, recherches sur l’usage des boissons
glacées ches les Hebreux, les Grecs et les Romains.
Belley: Verpillon, 1836.
8vo. Engraved title page vignette. 36 pp. Contemporary red cloth,
black morocco lettering piece on spine, bound by “L. Bouillet.”
$750.00
The extremely rare FIRST & ONLY EDITION of this study
of chilled drinks in classical times. Using Proverbs 25:13 (“Like
the coolness of snow in harvest/is a trusty messenger to those
who send him”) and 25:25 (“Like cold water to the throat when
it is dry/is good news from a distant land”) as starting points,
Greppe argues for the presence and use of chilled drinks in early
history. References include Pliny, Athenaeus, Petronio, Plutarch,
and additional passages in the Old Testament. Examples are
given of the various uses of snow and one passage discusses vases
specially made to keep drinks cool.
With the early engraved bookplate “Bibliotheca Lucini Passalaqua” on the upper pastedown.
¶ OCLC records one location in the Netherlands only. Not
in Bitting, Cagle, Fritsch, Oberlé, or Vicaire.
34
“The Earliest Book on the Subject
in the English Language”
HART, James. [Title in Greek: Klinike], or the
diet of the diseased. Divided into three bookes.
Wherein is set downe at length the whole
matter and nature of diet for those in health,
but especially for the sicke; the aire, and other
elements; meate and drinke, with divers other
[  ]
Item 32, Gartler
things…. Collected as well out of the writings
of ancient philosophers, Greeke, Latine, and
Arabian, and other moderne writers; as out of
divers other authors. London: Printed by John
Beale, for Robert Allot, and are to be sold at
his shop at the sign of the blacke Beare in Pauls
Church-yard, 1633.
Folio. Woodcut device on title page, woodcut head and tailpieces, numerous illustrated woodcut initials. 8 p.l. (including
initial blank), 22, [1], 411, [17] pp. as well as a duplication of 2
ll. of index (3O2–3). Contemporary calf, four blind fillets around
sides, spine richly gilt, joints restored, red morocco lettering
piece on spine, faint dampstaining on the initial leaves, one ink
stain on the title page affecting one word, corners bumped.
$6500.00
FIRST EDITION. A pioneering work concerned with food,
drink, health (both mental and physical), air, and exercise.
Sections discuss the various types of wines and their effects;
the times during which meals should be eaten (including
“Something concerning breakefasts”); nourishment; dietary
recommendations for those who are sick; gluttony; how to
understand and treat sorrow, grief, and fear; the nature of
joy and gladness; and cures for small pox, fevers, jaundice,
and measles.
Specific sections on food include strawberries, mulberries,
gooseberries, currants, cherries, plums, apricots, peaches, artichokes, cucumbers, melons, bread, corn, turbot, sturgeon, plaice,
sole, flounder, cod, halibut, oysters, cockles, anchovies, lobster
shrimp, crab, turtle, salmon, trout, pike, perch, eel, carp, meats
seasoned with salt and spices, lamb, pork, venison, veal, beef,
chickens, goose, partridge, ducks, swans, turkey, peacock, plover, as well as less common food such as dogs, cats, horses,
mules, asses, rats, locusts, frogs, snails, and human flesh. A very
interesting section discusses seasonings and includes salt, honey,
[  ]
wine vinegar, sugar, mustard, capers, cloves, walnut oil, pickled olives, olive oil, pepper, ginger, nutmeg, and cinnamon.
“Hart’s principal work, Klinike, or the diet of the diseased…
though little known, is of interest and value….It had scarcely
any forerunner in medical literature since the classical times,
and though the importance of such matters is now generally
recognised, it has had till quite recently but few successors….
In rationality and freedom from the tyranny of therapeutic
routine it is far in advance of most medical works of the
time, and apart from its professional interest presents instructive pictures of the manners and customs of the seventeenth
century.” – D.N.B.
With an early inscription on the verso of an initial blank
“This Book though an old one is well worth Reading and ought
not to be passed from.”
¶ Cagle 725; ESTC (US locations): Huntington, Harvard,
University of Wisconsin, New York Academy of Medicine,
and the New York Public Library; Krivatsy 5278; Oxford p. 20
– “The earliest book on the subject in the English language;”
STC 12888. Not in Bitting, Maggs, or Vicaire.
35
From the Library of the Celebrated 19th-Century
Chef Emile Bernard
HAUPTNER, F. V. Kochbuch für Haushaltungen aller Stände. Berlin: A. W. Hayn, 1838.
Large 12mo. xii, 863, [1] pp. Contemporary German purple
quarter-calf over decorative boards, spine richly gilt, marbled
edges. $3000.00
The extremely rare FIRST EDITION of Hauptner’s popular cookbook. After a glossary of cooking terms, with some
translations from French to German, Hauptner organizes his
book according to various “Abschnitten,” or sections, including soup, hors d’oeuvres, fish, large meat dishes, vegetables,
[  ]
recipes made with flour and eggs, braten, salads, savory pastry
dishes made from wild game, compotes from fresh and dried
fruit, baked goods (from sweet pastries to savory dishes), ice
creams, and hot and cold drinks. From the title page we learn
that Hauptner was head chef to Prince Albrecht of Prussia as
well as head of a Berlin cooking institute for women.
This is a particularly interesting copy because it comes from
the library of the well-known 19th-century chef and food
writer Emile Bernard (1797–1888). Bernard was the chef de
cuisine to William 1st, King of Prussia and German Emperor.
He was also the author, along with Urban Dubois, of Cuisine
Classique (first ed.: 1856), a very popular 19th-century “coffee
table” cookbook that was printed in a large quarto and was profusely illustrated with full-page engravings of elaborate dishes,
or pièces montées. It is very unusual to find cookbooks from the
libraries of known chefs from the 19th century.
With the bookplates of Emile Bernard and Rouvier de Vaulgran on the upper pastedown.
A very good copy.
¶ OCLC: New York Academy of Medicine only; Weiss 1479.
36
Recipes and a Domestic Dictionary
HAVET, Armand Étienne Maurice. Dictionnaire de ménages; ou, recueil de recettes et d’instructions pour l’économie domestique. Paris:
Pierre Blanchard, 1820.
8vo. viii, 9–517 pp. Contemporary straight-grained blue morocco,
double gilt-fillet around sides, spine gilt, red morocco lettering
piece on spine, marbled edges, gilt dentelles, marbled endpapers.
$1000.00
The very rare FIRST EDITION of Havet’s (1795–1820) guide
to cookery and home economics. Sections include a discussion
of food conservation; how to make marmelades and ratafias;
[  ]
how to prepare coffee, chocolate, and tea; how to make bread
and wine and design a cave; and how to make various vinegars.
From the title page we learn that Havet was a medical doctor and
botanist as well as the author of a work entitled Moniteur Médical.
Another edition of the Dictionnaire appeared in 1822. With the
early bookplate of L. C. Prideaux on the upper pastedown.
A handsome copy.
¶ OCLC: University of Rochester and the New York Public
Library only.
37
Not in Schoellhorn
HAYMAN, E. N. A Practical treatise to render the art of brewing more easy. London:
Longman, 1819.
12mo. Folding engraved frontispiece and tables in the text. vii,
[1 blank], [4 of advertisements], 117 pp. Contemporary blue
boards, grey paper spine expertly renewed, new spine label in the
style of the period, corners bumped, some staining to the boards,
light spotting throughout due to paper quality. $1500.00
The FIRST EDITION of this guide to making beer, written
by E. N. A. Hayman, a “Common Brewer.” “How far the following sheets will tend to promote a knowledge of the art of
brewing, founded on the use of the thermometer and saccharometer, the author leaves it to his generous readers to decide.”
The work begins with a “Description of the interior of a brewery” and then goes on to describe the management of a brewery.
Chapters cover specific types of beer including: Porter, Porter
Ale, Table Beer, Ringwood Ale, Burton Ale, Windsor Ale,
Dorchester Beer, Brown Stout, and Amber. These are followed
by general chapters on the saccharometer and its use, one on
hops, and another on malt.
This copy is particularly interesting as it contains several
contemporary manuscript annotations commenting upon
[  ]
the recipes. With an early ownership signature on the upper
pastedown.
¶ OCLC: New York Public Library, University of Chicago,
Johns Hopkins, University of Pennsylvania, Annheuser-Busch,
and six locations in Europe. Not in Schoellhorn (which lists
the second and third editions of 1823 and 1825 only).
38
An Extremely Rare Work on Country Living
HEPPE, Johann Christoph. Encyclopädischer
Kalender, oder kurze Aufsätze für die Liebhaber
der Haushaltungs-Kunst, der Wissenschaften,
und des Landlebens auf das Jahr 1777 [–1779].
Nürnberg: Joh. Andr. Endter, [1777–79].
4to. Title pages and several additional leaves printed in red and
black, two folding engraved plates, and one woodcut in the
text. Three volumes in one. [32] ll.; 10 p.l., 44 pp.; 14 p.l., 48 pp.
Contemporary speckled-paper boards, marginal worming in
the upper gutter of the first few signatures, bright and crisp
throughout. $2000.00
The extremely rare FIRST EDITIONS of Heppe’s calendar
and guide to country living for the years 1777, 1778, and 1779.
Sections discuss how to manage a kitchen garden, the orchard,
and forests including a two page entry on how to make a healthy
and tasty tea from strawberry leaves. Heppe also wrote texts
on natural history, birds, hunting, and fish anatomy. The illustrations depict an apparatus to measure tree growth and varieties of grass.
This appears to be the only known complete copy.
Very fresh. With the library stamp of Rolf Dittmar on the
upper pastedown.
¶ Weiss 1557 (lacking several leaves). Not in OCLC, Poggendorff, or RLIN.
[  ]
39 JOHNSTONE, May Searles. Mrs. Johnstone’s
cook book of tested recipes. Butte: Miner
Publishing Co., [1911].
8vo. Two photographic illustrations on one page of the Columbia Gardens. 154, [1 index], [2 advertisements], followed by 5
blank leaves. Original white cloth boards, title stamped in blue
on the upper board, very clean throughout.
$750.00
The very rare Second Edition of this early Montana cookbook.
The first edition (1905) is known in one location only (Montana
Historical Library) and our edition is known in two locations
only (Montana Historical Library & Johnson and Wales University Library). Montana cookbooks are very rare; the Browns,
in their Culinary Americana 1860–1960, list only two other Montana cookbooks beyond the two editions of Mrs. Johnstone.
A particularly fine copy.
¶ Brown 1997.
Rational Farming
40 KAMES, Henry Home, Lord. The gentleman
farmer. Being an attempt to improve agriculture
by subjecting it to the test of rational principles. Edinburgh: Printed for W. Creech, 1776.
8vo. Three engraved plates. xxiv (misprinted as “xxvi”), 409 pp.,
followed by a [2] pp. bookseller’s catalogue. Contemporary
polished calf, red morocco lettering piece on spine, double gilt
fillets on spine, corners slightly rubbed. $2000.00
FIRST EDITION. “Kames…was born at Eccles, Berwickshire,
in 1696 to an impoverished family estate which only allowed him
to be privately educated. In 1712 he was indentured to a Writer
to the Signet and eleven years later he was called to the Bar,
[  ]
ssssssssssssssssssss
Cranberry Sherbet
One pint of cranberry pulp. Once coffee cupful of
granulated sugar, the juice of two lemons. Cook for five
minutes. Cook and freeze, and just before finishing,
add the beaten white of one egg and one tablespoonful
of sugar mixed in.
Item 39, Johnstone, Butte, 1911
ssssssssssssssssssss
and became Judge of the Court of Session in 1752, Lord Justiciary in 1763.” – Fussell, Old English Farming Books, vol. II, p. 107.
He died in 1782.
From the author’s Preface: “Behold another volume on husbandry! exclaims a peevish man on seeing the title-page: how long
shall we be pestered with such trite stuff ? ‘As long, sweet Sir,
as you are willing to pay for it: hold out your purse, and wares
will never be wanting.’
“It must indeed be acknowledged, that the commerce of
books is carried on with no great degree of candour: those of
husbandry, with very little. A bookseller contrives a new title,
collects books upon the subject, delivers them to his author
to pick and cull; and, ‘Here, Sir, is a spick and span new work,
full of curious matter.’” Kames sought to remedy this situation by basing his book upon his own experiences and writing
it for landlords as they were the ones with the resources and
the profit interest to follow his recommendations. Apparently
he was right: the work went through six editions by 1815.
Chapters discuss farming apparatus; cattle and carriages;
the culture of plants for food (including wheat, rye, oats, barley,
beans, turnips, potatoes, carrots, and cabbage); the preparation of cattle intended for the butcher; the “theory of agriculture;” and the adaptability of a plant species to its environment.
The engraved plates depict various apparatus.
Kames was a man of literary talents who also published works
on morality (for which he was attacked by Hume and Voltaire), education, literary criticism, history, jurisprudence, and
ethnology.
From the library of John Earl of Hyndford with his engraved
bookplate and the early ownership signature of David Cook on
the upper pastedown.
A very good copy.
[  ]
“Few Books in My Entire Library Do I Prize More”
– Pennell
41 [KETTILBY, Mary.] A Collection of above
three hundred receipts in cookery, physick and
surgery. London: Wilkin, 1714.
8vo. 8 p.l., 218, [13], [1 blank] pp. Contemporary Cambridge
panelled-calf, red morocco lettering piece on spine, light spotting
throughout but especially on the prelims and final leaves.
$4000.00
A very good copy of the FIRST EDITION of this popular
early 18th-century English cookbook. Recipes include “Thin
Cream Pan-cakes, call’d a Quire of Paper;” “To Pickle Mackaral,
call’d Caveach;” “Scotch-Collops, a very good way;” and “To
Candy any Sort of Flowers.” The medicinal recipes occupy pages
123–218 and include “A very good Snail-Water, for a Consumption;” a poultice of saffron, rosemary, and egg yolk for a headache; and a recipe for walnut water to reduce a fever.
“I can assure you, that a Number of very Curious and
Delicate House-wives Clubb’d to furnish out this Collection,
for the Service of Young and Unexperienc’d Dames, who may
from hence be Instructed in the Polite Management of their
Kitchins, and the Art of Adorning their Tables with a Splendid Frugality. Nor do I despair but the Use of it may descend
into a Lower Form, and teach Cookmaids at Country Inns to
serve us up a very agreeable Meal….” – from the Preface.
A very good copy in a handsome contemporary binding. On
the upper pastedown is an engraved bookplate of Gordon Castle
with its shelf label as well as the early ownership inscription
“Huntly” on the upper and lower pastedowns.
¶ ESTC: British Library, Dr. Williams Library, Edinburgh
University, National Library of Scotland, Oxford, John Rylands University Library (Manchester), Leeds, Duke University, Huntington Library, University of North Carolina, Uni-
[  ]
ssssssssssssssssssss
Thin Cream Pan-cakes, call’d a Quire of Paper
Take to a pint of cream, eight eggs, leaving out two
whites, three spoonfuls of fine flower, three spoonfuls
of sack, and one spoonful of orange-flower-water, a little
sugar, a grated nutmed, and a quarter of a pound of
butter, melted in the cream; mingle all well together,
mixing the flower with a little cream at first, that it may
be smooth: butter your pan for the first pancake, and let
them run as thin as you can possibly to be whole, when
one side is colour’d ‘tis enough; take them carefully out
of the pan, and strew some fine siftend sugar between
each; lay them as even on each other as you can; this
quantity will make twenty.
Item 41, Kettilby, London, 1714
ssssssssssssssssssss
versity of Pennsylvania, University of Texas, State Library of
South Australia to which OCLC adds the following locations:
University of Aberdeen, Detroit Public Library, Indiana University, Auburn University (Alabama), and the Wellcome Library;
Maclean p. 79, Oxford p. 54 (“admirably fitted for domestic
use”); Pennell pp. 45–46, 58, 146.
An Unrecorded Work on Sugar Beets and Coffee Surrogates
42 KÖGEL, J. G. Zucker- Syrup- Arrak- und
Essig-Fabrikation aus Runkelrüben. Nebst
einem Anhang über die Kaffeesurrogate. Quedlinburg, Ernst, 1809.
12mo. 1 p.l., 94 pp. Contemporary stiff green wrappers, one
inch of the lower outer corner of the upper wrapper torn away.
$1500.00
The extremely rare FIRST EDITION of this study of how to
make sugar, syrup, arrack (spirits), and vinegar from beets.
Also included is a section on food for bees and the final chapter covers various surrogates for coffee.
In addition to the current work, Johann Georg Kögel also
published books on tobacco; flax; beer-making and its chemistry; and lime and gypsum for use in bleach, home construction, and soap.
¶ Not in Hunnersdorf, Mueller, or OCLC (which records
the second edition only).
New Techniques in German Viticulture & Wine Making
43 KOLBE, Johannn Heinrich. Anweisung dem
Weinstocke den höchsten Nutzen abzugewinnen. Erfurt: bei dem Verfasser [gedruckt bei
Johann Immanuel Uckermann], 1828.
[  ]
8vo. Eleven figures on seven lithographed plates, one of which
is folding. xiv, 106 pp. Original green lithographed wrappers,
light wear overall. $2000.00
The very rare and very much expanded Second Edition of Johann Heinrich Kolbe’s study of German viticulture. The first
edition was published two years earlier and was 44 pages only.
In the current edition, Kolbe discusses soil conditions; methods of trellising and espaliering vines on walls; what to expect
in the first, second, third, and fourth year of a vineyard; how
to prevent birds from ruining your harvest; how to keep your
grapes fresh; how to protect the vines from frost in Spring; specific trellising methods for hillsides, including one chapter on
the use of a pyramid structure; pressing of the grapes; and the
care of wine in the barrel.
The elegant lithographs depict various trellising methods,
including espalier and in a pyramid structure.
A very good copy in handsome pictorial wraps.
¶ OCLC: Davis and two locations in Europe.
44 KUNHARDT, Dorothy. Rennet dessert is nice.
Boston: Forbes Lithograph, 1947.
Oblong 8vo. [32] ll. Original printed boards, spine with some
wear and loss to head and tail of spine, clean and crisp internally.
$125.00
A charming gastronomic children’s book printed in red and
black ink. Dorothy Kunhardt (1901–1979) was a popular children’s book author best known for her “touch-and-feel” book
entitled Pat the bunny (first ed.: 1940). In the current work Kunhardt has written and illustrated a story about an old man
with a red beard and red slippers, who is continually eating
rennet dessert out of a red bowl. When the people all come
to see what he is doing, he tells them that they must guess what
he is thinking about and if they guess correctly, he will give
them something nice.
[  ]
Rennet is used in making cheese and when mixed with sugar
or honey, milk, and flavoring, it is used to make a dessert called
junket. This work is a variation on another text entitled Junket
is nice, published by Kunhardt with Harcort, Brace, and Co.
in 1933.
A good copy.
45
Honey for Health
LAHN, W. Lehre der honig-verwerthung.
Granienburg: Freyhoff, 1884.
8vo. Wood engraved portrait. viii, 125, [1] pp. followed by [18]
of advertisements. Original illustrated wrappers, entirely uncut
and unopened.
$1250.00
The very rare FIRST EDITION of Lahn’s guide to the production of honey and its culinary and medicinal uses. Recipes
are provided for its use in wine, champagne, liqueur, syrup,
vinegar, limonade, cakes, and in the preservation of fruit. To
maintain health recipes are also provided for a honey-balsam,
an eye-water, and an African cactus-lotion.
In fine condition and the first of three editions.
The upper wrapper illustrates gnomes helping a woman in
the kitchen.
¶ OCLC: the University of Minnesota only.
One of the Earliest English Guides to Food and Health
46 LANGHAM, William. The Garden of health.
London: [Deputies of Christopher Barker],
“1579” [1597].
8vo. Woodcut headpieces and initials. 4 p.l., 702, [56] pp.
Later calf in the style of the period, scuffed, raised bands, red
morocco lettering-piece on spine, lacking the blank leaf 2x8,
[  ]
shaved close with loss of two catchwords in the index, light
soiling from thumbing to the initial leaves and then again at
the index. $12,500.00
The FIRST EDITION of Langham’s early study of the health
properties of various plants and foodstuffs. Included is a discussion of almonds, anis, apples, artichokes, barley, basil, beans,
beets, bread, butter, capers, cardamom, carrots, caraway, chestnuts, cinnamon, citrons, cloves, cockles, coriander, crab, cress,
cucumber, currants…and that’s just a selection taken from the
A–Cs. For example, if one has a problem “abhorring meate” one
should drink a syrup made of the juice of apple flowers mixed
pomegranate and sugar. For aches and bruises, one can mix bread
crumbs with vinegar and rose leaves and apply it to the injured
area. To remove freckles, one can apply cockle juice at night.
“Langham also produced ‘two generall Tables’, one consisting of a page index of the 421 simples discussed in the book.
The second table was the converse of the indexes at the end of
individual chapters, for rather than showing that one plant
could cure many diseases, it indicated that for each illness there
were many different plants that could be employed. Fortyeight plants were indexed under consumption and eighty-eight
under colic, whilst ‘lust to abate’ merited twenty, with thirtyfive to cause it. The table listed over 10,000 plants that could
be used for the more than 1,150 named conditions and functions, and one plant would often be mentioned as useful in a
number of different conditions.” Wear, Knowledge and practice in
English medicine, 1550–1680.
A very good copy. Lacking the blank leaf 2x8 (as is usual).
Like the Huntington Library copy, our copy has the date
changed from 1579 to 1597 in manuscript.
¶ ESTC & OCLC: British Library, Cambridge, Edinburgh,
National Library of Scotland, Oxford, Peterborough Cathedral, Wellcome, University of Aberdeen, Royal Botanic Gardens (Kew), University of Toronto, University of Wisconsin
[  ]
(Madison), Dumbarton Oaks, University of Michigan, Alleghney College (PA), Northwestern University, Virginia Historical, New York Academy of Medicine, Williams College,
Harvard, Hunt Library, Folger, and Yale. Not in Bitting, Cagle,
or Vicaire. In the exhibition catalogue “Four Hundred Years of
English Diet and Cookery” at the Bancroft Library, it is noted
that “This may be the first use of cross-referencing.” Like the
Lilly Library, the Bancroft has the second edition only.
An Important Early Work on Perfume,
Beauty, and Women’s Health
47 LE FOURNIER, André. La decoratiô Dhumaine nature et aornement des Dames. Lyon:
[Claude Veycellier, 1 March 1531].
Small 8vo. Title page printed in red and black ink, decorative
woodcut title page border, woodcut initials, printed in Bâtarde
type. [111] pp. Early 19th-century red calf, double gilt fillet,
double blind fillets, and two roll-tooled borders around sides,
flat spine gilt, gilt edges, marbled end papers. $17,500.00
The extremely rare Second Edition of Le Fournier’s early guide
to beauty (first ed. Paris: 1530). This collection of cosmetic
and medicinal recipes rely on easily available foods and plants.
Many of the directions require no more than a stove and only
occasionally an alembic for distillation. Recipes include those
for scented waters; perfumed powders and lotions; essences;
how to lighten and darken one’s hair; how a woman can improve the color of her breasts and maintain their health (including how to make one’s nipples firm and pretty); scented
soaps; how to whiten teeth and powders to keep them clean;
how to make special waters which will add color to one’s face
(“et retournera en la premiere belle coleur”); how to combat
acne; lotions to be applied after being in the sun; how to prevent a suntan; how to abolish wrinkles; and various medicinal
[  ]
ointments. Other than the floral ingredients used to scent the
various beauty products (roses by far the most common), many
of the ingredients found are culinary in nature (e.g. white wine,
chicken fat, cinnamon, lemons, and eggs) and include instructions for distillation.
André Le Fournier (fl. 1518) was a French chemist and doctor who joined the Faculty of Paris in 1518. His La decoratio
dhumaine was very popular and by 1582 was in its tenth edition;
a reprint also appeared in 1992. It should be noted that all
early editions are extremely rare and that OCLC has only one
location for each.
The binding is signed “Simier” at the foot of the spine. On
the final blank page are contemporary notes in Latin regarding the work. The book is foliated [1], ii-l, [6] ll. and the collation is A–G8. The colophon information is on G2.
A handsome copy.
¶ Baudrier XII, 428; BM/STC French p. 260; Brunet vol.
III, col. 932; Gültlingen, Bibliographie des livres imprimés a Lyon au
seizième siècle, VI: 107, no. 8; Fairfax Murray French 307; Ferguson, Books of Secrets, S. III, p. 16, no. 21 & Index no. 499; OCLC
lists an incomplete copy (1, [6] ll.) at Princeton; Wiggishoff p.
33. Not in Montesquiou, Pays des Aromates, or the Bibliotheque
Nationale. OCLC also records an edition of the same year published in Paris by Sainct-Denys et L. Longis.
French Beer, “Des Vins de Grains”
48 LE PILEUR D’APLIGNY, M. Instructions
sur l’art de fair la bière. Paris: Sevière, 1783.
8vo. v, [3], 255pp. Contemporary quarter-calf over pastepaper
boards, red morocco lettering piece on spine, clean and crisp.
$3500.00
[  ]
The rare FIRST EDITION of Le Pileur d’Apligny’s guide on
how to make beer, the first book published in Paris on the
subject. Chapters include: beer in antiquity; beer’s healthful
properties; of “vins de grains” in general; grains used to make
beer; the growing and choice of barley; grain’s preparation; how
to grind the grain; choice of water and hops; observations on
different beers; brewers in Paris and London; general comments
on how to make beer; the ale of Avione; Flemish white ale; the
beers of England; and how to cellar beer.
A fine copy.
¶ OCLC: Davis, University of Chicago, Stanford, and 2 locations in Europe; Schoellhorn, Bibliographie des Brauwesens, p. 296.
Not in Bitting, Cagle, Fritsch, Livres en bouche, Oberlé, Simon,
or Vicaire.
Sheep Milk for the Elderly;
Unrecorded?
49 [Drop-title:] LEYS, Maximilien Joseph (praeses). An sensibus lac ovillum? [Paris: Quillau,
1789.]
4to. One large woodcut vignette. 4 pp. Recent brown pastepaper boards. $1200.00
The FIRST & ONLY EDITION of this extremely rare dissertation presented by Phillipus Joachimus Josephus Gengembre to Joseph Maximilien Leys. Provided with the question of
whether it is a good idea to drink sheep milk, Gengembre answers in the affirmative. He notes the various nutritional qualities of sheep milk and especially notes its benefits in the diet
of the elderly.
A good copy of an interesting study.
¶ Not in Bitting, Cagle, OCLC, or Vicaire.
[  ]
50
With a Lovely Engraved Title Page
LINDSAY, Patrick. The interest of Scotland
considered, with regard to its police in imploying of the poor, its agriculture, its trade, its
manufactures, and fisheries. Edinburgh: Fleming
1733.
Small 8vo. Engraved title page vignette, woodcut head and tailpieces. 5 p.l., xxxv, 229, [13] pp. including the blank leaf P4.
Contemporary calf, spine richly gilt, red morocco lettering piece
on spine, boards with a double blind fillet around sides, edges
of boards richly gilt. $3500.00
The FIRST EDITION of Lindsay’s recommendations for the
revival of the Scottish linen industry, farming, and fishing.
After having served with Sir Robert Riche in his regiment of
foot in Spain, Lindsay settled in Edinburgh as an upholsterer.
His business was prosperous and he became dean of his guild
and was elected lord provost in 1729 and 1733. From 1734–41 he
was a member of Parliament for Edinburgh. He died in 1753
shortly after having been appointed the Governor of the Ile
of Man.
Lindsay begins by noting the terrible conditions of the poor
in Scotland and the high level of unemployment and begging.
He then goes on to discuss various laws in commerce (both
domestic and international) which have negatively affected the
state of trade in Scotland and to suggest the possibility of
cultivating silk manufacture, trade with the West Indies, the
linen trade, flax farming, and the fisheries within Scotland as
a solution. To do this, however, he calls for government intervention and provides examples of its success in some areas
of Scotland and other countries. There is also a large section
about the herring trade, including a discussion of the relative
merits of herring from different areas, how they taste, and
their conservation.
[  ]
The finely engraved title page vignette depicts workers
building barrels and crates for delivery to ships anchored in
the distance; a person working at a loom; and two farmers
ploughing a field. Surrounding the scenes is an ornamental frame
made of a net of fish, a garland of produce, a bee hive, a mound
of flax, and a spider’s web.
The extremely rare FIRST EDITION of Katharina Löhring’s
apple cookbook, intended as “a handbook for each household.”
With 110 recipes provided, dishes include Apfelbrot; Apfeltorte;
Apfel-Omlette; Apfelwurst; Apfelsyrup; Apfelsuppe; Apfelsorbet; Apfel-Käse; Apple Curry; Roley-poley-Pudding; Pudding à la Perse; and Pommes Méringues (calling for Borsdorfer apples). Löhring also wrote a cookbook of egg recipes and
another of potato recipes.
A good copy of an extremely rare and fragile item. On the
upper wrapper the imprint is given as Bern: J. Heuberger.
¶ Weiss 2365. Not in OCLC or RLIN.
FIRST EDITION. A very charming guide to eating in London, written, the book tells us, to address the “tens of thousands, not only of our country population, but of foreigners”
attracted to the Great Exhibition. “Strangers in London, with
money at command to dine when, where, and how it may suit
their fancy, can, with perseverance and tact, always gratify their
propensities in reason, but those whose palate is their only
thought, must be left to the self-inflicted torments which their
voluptuousness and selfishness are sure to entail.” This book
seeks to rectify this situation. Restaurants, clubs, and dishes are
described in great detail, as well as table decorations, how to
serve, recipes for various dishes and drinks (including Mississippi Punch), and aphorisms for health and life. One section
even mentions buying cookery books in London: “Cookerybooks, from the celebrated ‘Ude,’ the brilliant and accomplished
‘Soyer’, down to humble ‘Meg Dodds’, about in every bookseller’s shop, in all of which ample instructions will be found
for the guidance and study of those anxious to excel in the profound science of Gastronomy….” (p. 41).
The title and frontispiece (by “Phiz” i.e. H. K. Browne) were
probably inspired by Briffault’s Paris A Table, (1st ed.: 1846)
with illustrations by Bertall, which bear a striking resemblance
in tone and humor.
¶ Bitting p. 573; Cagle 832; NUC: DLC NN ICN PPRF;
and Simon Gastronomica 967. Not in Maggs or Vicaire.
Dining in London during the Great Exhibition
LONDON AT TABLE; or, how, when, and
where to dine and order a dinner; and where
to avoid dining. With practical hints to cooks.
London: Chapman and Hall, 1851.
English Salt to be made with Ale
LOWNDES, Thomas. Brine-salt improved: or,
the method of making salt from brine, that
shall be as good or better than French bay-salt.
London: S. Austen, 1746.
51
Apple Cookery
LÖHRING, Katharina. Die erfahrene Aepfelköchin. Leipzig: Carl Wilfferodt, 1865.
Small 8vo. Title page vignette. 2 p.l. (of advertisements), 64 pp.
Original illustrated printed wrappers.
$800.00
52
8vo. Engraved frontispiece. 2 p.l., 60 pp. followed by [2], 33,
[1] of a publisher’s catalogue. Original gilt and blind-stamped
emerald green cloth, minor rubbing, crisp internally. $750.00
[  ]
53
4to. Title page woodcut vignette, woodcut headpieces, woodcut initials. 38, [2] pp. Modern quarter-calf over cloth boards,
faint dampstaining on a few leaves, crisp. $2000.00
[  ]
The FIRST & ONLY EDITION of Thomas Lowndes’ (1692–
1748) treatise on the improvement of English salt. At first
Lowndes describes salt production in Rochelle, France, and how
such salt is considered to be the best in all of Europe. He then
describes how Dutch herrings are better preserved than those in
England due to the salt produced in Holland: “Dutch salt being purified, is the chief cause of the excellency of their fish.”
At this point, he then goes on to outline his own method of
making salt using ingredients such as egg whites, butter, ale,
and strict temperature control of the fire and coals being used.
Then he writes about its use with meat and cheese, how it will
compare to other salts, and the various economic benefits it
would provide to England. The rest of the work is comprised
of letters for and against the idea, outlining the chemistry
involved, and listing the importation levels of salt in around
the world.
“English salt was at this time unquestioningly bad, and large
quantities were imported. Upon a method of improving its
quality, Lowndes had spent, he averred ‘ten of the best years
of his life, and no inconsiderable sum of money.’” – D. N. B.
Although his test results were well received by the Royal Society
of Physicians, the admiralty refused to follow his plan. Later,
after an appeal to the House of Commons, a petition was taken
to the King who then instructed the admiralty to follow Lowndes’
system. Unfortunately, Lowndes died before the plan could be
enacted. In addition to being actively involved in various economic schemes in England, Lowndes was the provost-marshal
of South Carolina.
¶ ESTC & OCLC: British Library, Cambridge University,
Oxford University, Science Museum, Glasgow University, Birmingham University, Chetham’s Library (Manchester), Literary
and Philosophical Society, Royal Society, National Library
of Scotland, Institute of Social History (Netherlands), Danish
Royal Library, Memorial University (Canada), Baker Library
[  ]
(Harvard University), Huntington Library, University of Wisconsin (Madison), University of California (Los Angeles), New
York Public Library, University of Chicago, University of Illinois, Chemical Heritage Library, and University of North
Carolina. Not in Bitting, Cagle, Simon, or Vicaire.
54 (MANUSCRIPT:
ENGLISH COOKERY
& MEDICINE.) Martha Smith, 1655–c. 1697.
18.2cm x 14.7cm. 128 pp. Contemporary limp vellum.
$15,000.00
A remarkable collection of more than 350 culinary and medicinal receipts. Written in a legible hand the cookery recipes
include how “To make an orrange pudding;” “To make westphalia hamms;” “Black Cherry Water Very Cordiall;” “To pickle
walnuts;” “To make sage wine;” “Scotch Collopps;” “To make
Almond Cakes;” “To dry tongues;” “To make very good French
pease Pottage;” “To dresse a Carp;” “To preserve currants;”
“Sauce for Pike;”and “To make coole butter paste, for pasty
or patty panns.”
The many medicinal recipes include “A drinke for the Cough
of the lungs;” “A receit for Convultion fitts;” “Pills to purge
the head;” “for to make the golden salve;” “To cure the allmondes of the eares and pallet of ye mouth;” “The weapon
water;” and “Mrs Bostocks drink very good for the vapours of
the mother ye collick & the palsie.”
On the upper free endpaper is written “Martha Smith her
booke 1655.” Loosely laid-in are several other recipes and tippedin is a printed advertisement for Dr. Deermer’s “cure for all sorts
of Agues.” On page [65] next to “The purging Elixir” is written
“I made mine thus May 1697.”
A very good copy of an interesting manuscript. It has become very difficult to find good 17th-century English cookery
manuscripts on the market today.
[  ]
ssssssssssssssssssss
Scotch Collopps
Take the best part of a leg of veale, cut in thin slices
& hack them very well, then take a small quantity of
thym & sweet margeram minct, with a little pepper &
nutmeg & strew upon them with a little salt & fry them
with a little butter. Your sauce must be made with gravy
two or three spoonfulls of clarrett & a small piece of
butter thickned with two or three eggs so beat up that
& collops together in your pan. For your foret meat,
take halfe a pound of veale & the same quantity of biefe
suet, & beat them very fine, season it with a little thym
& sweet margeram, sage, nutmeg, ginger & black pepper
with some grated white bread, make it up with 2 or 3
eggs throwing away one of the whites, then make up on
halfe into little balls & put the other into that which
you roast.
Item 54, Martha Smith Manuscript, 1655–c.1697
ssssssssssssssssssss
55
(MANUSCRIPT: VITICULTURE.) Nevers,
1754.
15¾ x 21½ inches. Folded and stitched into a binding of half
vellum over marbled boards.
$8000.00
A lovely watercolor and ink map showing a plan of a manor
house and its six parcels of vines. Each of the lots is surrounded by various names, possibly identifying those who were responsible for maintaining that area of the vineyard and within the
plots tiny individual vines are drawn and colored. There is also
a compass rose on the map as well as a scale entitled “Echelle
de 12 perches” (one perche was approximately 15 feet, though this
measurement changed over time). Within a wonderfully ornately
drawn medallion, we read that the property belonged to M.
L’Eveque, an advocate. Attached onto the map by four tabs of
wax is a brief manuscript description of the various plots’ locations and their qualities. The manuscript is signed by “Lariche.”
A wonderful view on mid-18th-century wine making in
central France. From the well-known wine library of Bernard
Chwartz with his monogram stamp on the upper board.
56
(MANUSCRIPT: English receipts.) 1813–35.
20cm x 17cm. [40] pp. with [17] additional pp. of recipes laidin. Original marbled wrappers with “Receipt Book” written on
the upper cover and “A Book of Receipts” written on the lower
cover, light wear overall. $2000.00
A legible and interesting early 19th-century English manuscript
with directions on how to make medicinal and veterinary
remedies, as well as beer and wine. Some of the medicinal cures
include how to make cough medicine; how to treat gout and an
inflammation of the eyes; a cure for “Hooping Cough” and
another for scurvy and rheumatism. Veterinary remedies cover
those for horses and dogs and there are even an few household
[  ]
recipes for blackening one’s shoes and how to kill rats. The
culinary recipes include how to make grape, elderberry, currant,
and ginger wine; how to bake mackerel; and several recipes for
making, caring for, and bottling beer.
An interesting manuscript covering a range of domestic
recipes.
57
A Scroll of Samurai Carving Methods
(MANUSCRIPT: Japanese cookery.) GYOCHO KIRIKATA [Ways to cut fish and birds].
c. 1793.
1016cm x 15.5cm. Manuscript scroll in three different colors:
pink, light grey, and black ink with original brass jiku roller.
$15,000.00
A remarkable discovery. The Gyocho Kirikata is a book of “secrets
for initiation into the mysteries of the art of carving.” More
than thirty-three feet in length, the carving instructions of this
“secret scroll” were originally given to Ogasawara-Nyudo Nagatoki who then passed on the instructions by secretly handing
them down to ten other people, each of whom is documented
at the end of the scroll with this particular copy being completed
in 1793. Ogasawara-Nyudo Nagatoki was the lord of Shinano,
today known as the Nagano prefect. Born in 1514, he was from
a family well-known for their knowledge of Samurai manners
and etiquette. After suffering numerous defeats in battle, Nagatoki retired to teach archery and horsemanship and later died in
1583 under mysterious circumstances.
This beautiful samurai manuscript describes multiple ways
to carve various fish and fowl including carp; snapper; flounder;
bonito; catfish; shark; and octopus as well as pheasant; duck;
goose; swan; crane; and hawk. Also provided are special views
of certain meats upon their cutting boards accompanied by
chop-sticks and a knife. Alongside these views is text indicating
[  ]
in what direction the animal is to face during carving. Usually,
there is more than one carving method for each fish or fowl in
order to cover both formal and informal meals as well as indications for specific ceremonial purposes (e.g. a meal before going
off to war).
In fine condition. Special thanks to Yuki Ishimatsu, Head
of Japanese Collections at the East Asian Library, University of
California Berkeley, for his help in describing this manuscript.
58
“Written Purely from Her Own Practice”
MARTIN, Sarah. The New Experienced English-Housekeeper, for the Use and Ease of
Ladies, Housekeepers, Cooks, &c. Doncaster:
D. Boys, 1795.
8vo. 12 p.l., 173, [1 blank], [17], [1 blank] pp. Contemporary
polished calf, spine expertly renewed, blue morocco lettering
piece on spine, spine gilt, raised bands.
$9750.00
The FIRST EDITION of this rare provincial cookbook. “To
those who may disapprove the following Publication, as being
smaller than many similar in the Nature to the same and perhaps a lower Price, I beg to say it has been the Advice of my
Friends to avoid that Repetition which is the sole Cause of their
Prolixity, and on Comparison I flatter myself that in this Work
as many and useful Directions will be found comprised in a less
Number of separate Receipts.” – from the Preface. Despite
Sarah Martin’s concern over a shortage of recipes, her cookbook presents no less than 360 different directions, from “Amulet of Cockles” to “White Almond Butter.”
From the title page we learn that the recipes in the book
are drawn from the author’s personal experience and that she
was “many years housekeeper to the late Freeman Bower Esq.
Of Bawtry.”
A very good copy.
[  ]
ssssssssssssssssssss
To fry Smelts
Take the guts out at the gills with a skewer, wipe them
with a clean dry cloth, put six of seven on one skewer,
rub them with the yolk of egg, strew over them bread
crumbs and dredge them; have ready a pan with sweet
dripping made very hot, put them in and fry them a
light brown, then take them out and lay them before the
fire on clean straw to drain; serve them up with good
melted butter.
Item 58, Martin, Doncaster, 1795
ssssssssssssssssssss
¶ ESTC: British Library, Glasgow, Oxford, Leeds, Columbia
University, Cornell University, New York Public Library, and
Radcliffe to which OCLC adds the Lilly Library and the Wellcome Library; Maclean p. 95.
59
“Eclipsed its Predecessors” – Alan Davidson
MAY, Robert. The Accomplisht Cook, or the
Art and Mystery of Cookery. London: Brooke,
1660.
8vo. Engraved frontispiece and numerous woodcuts in the text.
16 p.l., 80, XVI, 81–447 pp. Contemporary blind-ruled calf,
spine renewed, later endpapers, remains of clasps, marginal
worming to a few preliminary leaves, including frontispiece and
the final three leaves, and then again to S2–4 affecting two-three
words per page, lightly browned. $25,000.00
A very good copy of the FIRST EDITION of this seminal
English cookbook. “Robert May (1588–1687) is one of the most
famous English chefs of the seventeenth century. When he had
learned the basics at home from his father, a country house chef,
May was sent by his patroness, Lady Dormer, to France. There,
‘he continued five years being in the family of a noble Peer,
and first President of Paris, where he gained not only the French
tongue but also better’d his knowledge in his cookery,’ as we are
told in the preface to his book. Back in England, he served out
his apprenticeship and went on to cook in the country houses
of several noble families, employing both techniques and recipes he had learned in France.” – Une Affaire de Goût, p. 48 on the
1671 edition.
“Despite having learned his trade there, May only grudgingly
gave the master chefs of France the praise he must have known
so many of their dishes, sauces, and concoctions deserved….
He was careful to mute his praises and mollify his compatriots
in English kitchens by a culinary sideswipe at his former tutors
[  ]
in Paris….Nevertheless, Robert May was determined to slip
in many of the best recipes he had learned with so much toil
and trouble abroad: ‘As I live[d] in France, and had the Language, and have been an eye-witness of their Cookeries as well
as a Peruser of their Manuscripts and Printed Authors; whatsoever I found good in them I have inserted in this Volume.’ His
book starts with a bang, so to speak, beginning with a memorable pyrotechnical set piece that must have taxed the labours
of a small army of undercooks and serving maids, as well as
that of all the skills of the master himself….Not all May’s bills
of fare and recipes were as ambitious as those he concocted for
feast days, and many of his dishes called only for easily available
ingredients that would suit the pockets of the less wealthy
among his readers. Others he ingeniously contrived for times of
the year when certain foods were out of season or unobtainable in the ordinary course of household business.” – Quayle,
Old Cook Books, pp. 45–51.
“May opens his book with four pages on the Spanish stew
of olla podrida, known to the English as olio. Later he describes
how to make stoffado (pot roast) and quelque shose (fancy French
dishes which the English mockingly called ‘kickshaws’ – and
cheerfully labels some very English ways of cooking meat as
à la mode….But behind this chic façade, May turns with relief
to those quintessentially English dishes: puddings, pies, and
roasts. As William Forrest, an Elizabethan chronicler, remarked:
‘Our English nature cannot live by roots, by water, herbs, or
such beggary baggage, that may well serve for vile outlandish
[  ]
quarters, give Englishmen meat after their old usage, beef,
mutton, veal, to cheer their courage.’ By May’s time roasting
had really come into its own, and large cuts of meat like leg
of mutton, loin of pork, chine of beef, and whole lamb added
variety to the smaller roasts of the medieval table. For accompaniment May suggests a series of ‘sauces’ that might well have
come from a modern English menu. ‘Mustard,’ he writes, ‘is good
with brawn, beef, chine of bacon and mutton; verjuyce [tart fruit
juice] good to boiled chicken and capons.’ He also recommends ‘swan with chaldrons,’ an essence of entrails probably
rather like meat glaze, and ‘ribs of beef with garlick, mustard,
pepper, verjuyce, and ginger.’ French and Italian influence also
acquainted the Eng-lish with new vegetables. The Accomplisht
Cook contains recipes for ‘spinage’ tart, buttered ‘sparagus’ and
pickled ‘cowcumbers.’ In their appreciation of potatoes and
salads, the English were a step ahead of the French; La Varenne has scarcely a salad recipe, but Robert May devotes a
whole section to salads of all kinds. According to John Evelyn,
who in 1699 wrote a book on salads called Acetaria, ‘sallets are a
composition of edule (edi-ble) plants and roots of several
kinds, to be eaten raw or green, blanch’d or candied (i.e. pickled).’ Robert May’s idea of a salad is much wider – he adds
almost anything and arranges the ingredients lovingly in patterns on the platter. The common bond is a dressing of ‘oyl
and vinegar beaten together, the best oyl you can get.’” – Willan, Great Cooks and their Recipes, pp. 69–71.
[  ]
“By its sheer size (over 450 pages and more than 1,000 recipes) and comprehensive scope this book eclipsed its predecessors, none of which had treated all branches of cookery.”
– Davidson, The Oxford Companion to Food, p. 485.
¶ ESTC: British Library, Birmingham University Library,
Library of Congress and University of California (Berkeley) to
which OCLC adds Trinity College (Hartford), Cornell, and
Bowdoin College; Wing M1391. See Bitting p. 318, Cagle 867,
Une Affaire de Goût 69, and Wellcome IV, p. 88 for later editions.
An Extremely Rare Household Manuel
60 [MEHLER, Johann.] Handbuch zum Unterricht weiblicher Personen, welche gute Wirthinnen werden wollen. Nebst einer Anweisung,
wie man sich auf eine leichte und wohlfeile Art
die kost-barsten, den Eiderbunen gleiche, Betten
und eben so geringere, ohne Zuthun von Federn, bereiten könne. Leipzig: Schwickertschen
Verlage, 1795.
8vo. Two large folding engravings. viii, 384 pp. Contemporary
blue wrappers, very light rubbing overall.
$2000.00
The extremely rare FIRST & ONLY EDITION of this anonymous handbook on maintaining a house. Chapters cover
bread-baking; vinegar; smoking and salting meats; distillation; brandies; chocolate; punch; limonade; dying silk, wool,
and linen; how to draw hemp and flax; make bleach; build a
matress; get rid of household insects; and how to put together
a household apothocary.
Johann Mehler also wrote on heating, ventilation, lighting,
botany, agriculture, and the history of Bohemia.
A very good copy in original state. From the library of
Rolf Dittmar with his library stamp on the inside of the upper wrapper.
¶ Weiss 2493. Not in OCLC or RLIN.
[  ]
61
ssssssssssssssssssss
Purslan Sallet
Take green purslan and pick it leaf by leaf, wash it and
swing it in a napkin, then being dished in a fair clean
dish, and finely piled up in a heap in the midst of it, lay
round about the center of the sallet pickled capers, currans, and raisins of the sun, washed, picked, mingled, and
laid round it; about them some carved cucumbers, in
slices or halves, and laid round also. Then garnish the
dish brims with burrage [borage] or clove-jelly-flowers.
Or otherwayes with jagged cucumber peels, olives, capers, and raisons of the sun, then the best sallet oyl and
wine vinegar.
Item 59, May, London, 1660
ssssssssssssssssssss
Signed by John Singer Sargent & Bram Stoker
(MENU.) The Kinsmen. Sunday 9.th. May
1897. Willis Restaurant. Ltd. [London].
17.7cm x 12.5cm. Two cards, both printed in blue and red ink:
one is a menu of twelve courses, the other a card announcing
the club name as well as the time and place of the dinner. On
the verso of each are the signatures of the attending diners.
$2500.00
A remarkable survival. As Laurence Hutton, the famous American essayist and critic describes in Talks in a Library: “The
initial idea of ‘The Kinsmen’ was Lawrence Barrett’s; the name
was an inspiration of my own. The actor had long contemplated
the foundation of a little club upon the lines of the ‘Green Room’
or the ‘Beefsteak’ in London, to which none but professionals
should be admitted and only those of the right sort. He wanted to bring together the players, the writers, the sculptors, the
painters, into some simple organisation which would be select
and fraternal….There were to be no dues, no fees, no clubhouse, no constitution, no by-laws, no officers, ‘no nothing’ but
good fellowship and good times. We were to breakfast or dine,
or lunch, or sup, together; each member was to bring to each
symposium a guest of his own choosing and his own profession, whom he felt would be acceptable to the other members.
– pp. 325–26.
The club was founded in New York in early 1882. By June
of the same year it had met at the Blue Posts Tavern in London.
Members included Mark Twain and Henry Irving, who presented each Kinsman with a perpetual free pass to any theater
in which he might be playing.
Our menu bears the signatures of the twenty club diners for
the evening of May 9th, 1897. It is particularly spectacular
because that evening’s attendees, some of whom signed their
names twice. The list includes the painter John Singer Sargent
[  ]
(twice); Bram Stoker, author of Dracula; Andrew Lang, writer,
anthropologist and collector of folk tales; the socialite Henry
Allhusen (twice); the surgeon and Japanese art collector William Anderson (twice); George Sydenham Clark, diplomat;
John Hay, US Ambassador; E. Ray Lankester, scientist; Frederick Macmillan, publisher; Sir Herbert E. Maxwell, writer
and politician; William Padgett; Graham Robertson, artist and
patron; W. Baptiste Scoones, editor; and that of the Japanese
art collector H. Seymour Trower (twice). There are also two
additional names which we have been unable to identify.
In good condition and preserved in a black cloth folding box
with the title in gilt-stamped red morocco on the upper board.
An Early Advocate for Eating Locally-Grown Foods
62 MOFFETT, Thomas. Healths improvement:
or, rules comprizing and discovering the nature,
method, and manner of preparing all sorts of
food used in this nation. Corrected and enlarged
by Christopher Bennet, doctor in physick, and
Fellow of the Colledg of Physitians in London. London: Printed by Tho: Newcomb for
Samuel Thomson, 1655.
4to. 8, 296 pp. Contemporary speckled-calf with double blindfillet around sides and spine with small floral stamps in corners, gilt red morocco label on spine, minor worming on the
first five signatures affecting a few words but still legible.
$4500.00
FIRST EDITION. After having traveled and studied on the
continent extensively, Muffet returned to England and worked
successfully as a doctor. Although Healths improvement was written in about 1595, the work was not published until 1655 when
Muffet’s descendants solicited Dr. Christopher Bennet’s help.
[  ]
“Tis true, his relations and their interests much sollicited my
help; but the merits of the man were my greatest motives, and
his Old Fame most quickned me to restore him. Seriously,
upon perusal, I found so much Life and Pulse in his dead
Works, that it had not been charity in me to let him dye outright, specially when tis for the worlds good and your (Healths
Improvement.) This is all, only if it may be any advantage to have
my Judgement tis a Piece for my palate, not like to dis-relish
any, where so much pleasure is interlarded with our profit. I
may safely say, upon this subject I know of none that hath
done better; and were Platina, Apicius, or Alexandrinus, with
all the rest of Dietetick writers now alive, they would certainly
own, and highly value this Discourse.” – from Bennet’s “To
the Reader,” pp. [5–6].
“Thomas Muffet (1553–1604) was a famous physician, member of Parliament, and entomologist who wrote the ‘Natural
History of Insects’ (his daughter, who evidently disliked spiders, was ‘Little Miss Muffet’).” – Bancroft Library, Four hundred years of English diet & cookery, no. 63.
From the Fairfax Library with the engraved armorial bookplate of Fairfax of Cameron, and small book label of GOM
(Dr. George Mitchell) on upper pastedown.
¶ Bancroft Library, One hundred sixteen uncommon books on food
and drink, no. 83; Maclean p. 104; Oxford p. 28 – “a very interesting book on the choice and preparation of food.” For more
on Moffet see also Drummond and Wilbraham, The Englishman’s Food and Alba Eating Right in the Renaissance.
63
Teachings for a Young Lady;
A Very Fine Set and Extremely Rare
[MORGENSTERN-SCHULZE, Johanna
Katharina.] Lehren und Erfahrungen für junges
Frauenzimmer…auch des Unterrichts in der
Küche und Haushaltung. Halle: Witwe, 1786.
[  ]
8vo. Engraved and woodcut title page vignettes. xxiv, 184, [1]
pp.; 10, xi-xviii, 11–186, [2] pp.; xxxii, 374, [2] pp. Three parts
in two volumes. Contemporary half-calf over marbled boards,
vellum lable on spines, spine gilt-stamped, bindings signed
“F. C. Raben.”
$2500.00
The extremely rare FIRST EDITION of Johanna Katharina
Morgenstern-Schulze’s book of teachings for a lady. Parts
cover “the education of the heart;” preparation for living with
a man; how to raise children; and guidance to run the kitchen
and all aspects of the household economy.
Morgenstern-Schulze was one of the most popular 18thcentury German authors of works on domestic economy written for women and was also the author of the Magdeburgisches
Kochbuch. For more on the attributions to works by Morgenstern-Schulze, see the Deutsches Anonymen-Lexicon by Holzmann
& Bohatta.
A very fine set. Volume two mistakenly has “3.4” stamped on
the spine; although part three is equal in size to parts one and
two together, a fourth part was never issued. With the bookplate of Hans Gieraths on the upper pastedowns and library
stamp of Tilhører, Grevskabet Christiansholm on the upper
free endpaper.
¶ Weiss 2266 claims it to not be by Morgenstern-Schulze
and, although he calls for three parts, he only lists the pagination for the third and final part. Not in OCLC or RLIN.
In a Lovely Binding
64 [NEILL, Patrick]. Journal of a horticultural
tour through some parts of Flanders, Holland,
and the north of France, in the autumn of 1817.
By a deputation of the Caledonian Horticultural
Society. Edinburgh: Bell & Bradfute, 1823.
[  ]
8vo. Seven engraved plates (browned due to the quality of the
paper), two of which are folding, & illustrations in the text.
[iii]-xv, 574 pp., 1 leaf of errata and “Directions to the Binder.”
Lovely contemporary paneled sheep, spine richly gilt, boards
with a blind roll pattern and gilt fillets around sides, upper
portion of upper joint beginning to crack but still firm, marbled endpapers. $1500.00
FIRST EDITION and somewhat scarce. The objectives of
Neill’s (1776–1851) tour were to “take notice of any new or
uncommon varieties of fruits and culinary vegetables, which
it might be desirable to introduce into Scotland; and to establish a correspondence with some of the principal amateur
cultivators and professional nurserymen.” – from the author’s
Preface. On the way he documents many private and public
gardens as well as commercial nurseries.
Neill was the first secretary of the newly-established Wernerian Natural History Society and the Caledonian Horticultural Society of Edinburgh. The author of several geological
and botanical works, Neill is perhaps best-remembered for
developing the scheme for Edinburgh’s West Princes Street
Gardens in 1820.
The engravings include floor plans and elevations of hot
houses, gardens, and the “Palm of Clusius,” a twenty-five foot
specimen of Chamaerops humilis which in England was only believed to grow to a height of six feet. Clusius had planted the
palm in 1592.
A handsome copy although lacking the half-title. With the
bookplate of “Wm. M. Christy” on the upper pastedown.
¶ See the D.N.B. for more on Neill.
[  ]
65
English Beer and Ale
P. C. J. P. A Discourse on the preparation,
preservation, and restoration of malt-liquors.
London: Oswald, 1733.
12mo. in 6s. 1 p.l., ii, [5]-93, [3] pp. Later quarter-calf over
marbled boards, raised bands red morocco lettering piece on
spine, mild dampstaining throughout, the upper corner of the
first five leaves removed not affecting text. $3500.00
The FIRST & ONLY EDITION of this extremely rare work
on beer and ale written“in particular to the vulgar and mechanic Part of this Nation” to improve the quality of malt
liquors and the safety of their consumption. Chapters discuss
“Of the kinds of grain proper for malt;” “Malt-making;” “The
Vertues of barley and malt;” “Of brewing;” “Of fermentation;” “Of tunning and keeping ale;” “Of restoring of decayed
ale or beer;” “Of the uses of the grains and barm;” “Of the
general uses of malt and malt-liquors;” and “An appendix concerning alegar [malt vinegar] and malt-spirits.”
The author seems to have been very much impressed by
Worlidges’ Vinum Britannicum (first ed.: 1676) as he cites it often
and offers a “recapitulation of the [work’s] vertues” in chapter
nine. In the introduction he mentions that he is also indebted
to the works of Markham and Boerhaave though “all these
make not up a fifth Part” of his work.
An interesting manual for beer and ale-making from early
18th-century England. Despite the inconsistences in pagination, the collation and catch-words show the work to be complete: A–H6.
Extremely rare.
¶ ESTC & OCLC: Wellcome Institute, British Library, &
Stanford; Schoellhorn p. 242.
[  ]
In Original State
66 PALLADIO, Rutilius Tarus Aemilianus. Volgarizzamento di Palladio. Testo di lingua la
prima volto stampato. Verona: Dionisio Ramazini, 1810.
4to. Title page woodcut vignette, woodcut head and tailpieces
xiii, 300 pp. original blue wrappers, unopened, crisp and bright.
$1250.00
A handsome edition of Palladio’s famous work on agriculture, in this case, translated from a codex in the Biblioteca
Laurenziana in Florence. “Finally, there is…Palladius, who
learned much from Columella and ended up knowing more
about grafting than today’s typical horticultural graduate. Palladius grew up in Poitiers, France, where his father, ca. 320
A.D., supplied grain, fruit, and wine to Rome. His De re rustica is the world’s first versified gardening, fruit growing, and
grafting calandar and was, the inclusion of superstitions notwithstanding, a long-time trusted source of gardening information.” – Janson, Pomona’s Harvest, p. 18.
An extremely fine copy in original state.
¶ OCLC: Dartmouth, UCLA, and one location in Europe.
B.IN.G. 1423, Jenson 1472, Westbury p. 168.
67 (PERFUME, Soap, essences, wax, etc.) Four
patents, 1861–81.
4to. Paginated variously (see below) and preserved in a marbled
paper clamshell box, red morocco lettering piece on spine and
upper board. $750.00
A small collection of French patents concerning perfume, soap,
wax, oils, rubber, and other related products as well as the
apparatus invented for their manufacture. This is a fascinating
glimpse into the rapidly growing industrialization of scent
[  ]
manufacturing in the second half of the 19th century. More
than 200 patents are listed in all ranging from a patent to stabilize extracts of flowers in perfumes to a patent for using butter as a base for making soap.
The patents are as follows:
Description des machines et procédés pour lesquels des
brevets d’invention ont été pris sous le régime de la loi du 5
Juillet 1844. Bougies, Savons. Année 1861, Tome lxxxi. [Paris:
l’Imprimerie Nationale, 1861.] 4to. 22 pp., followed by a blank
leaf. Disbound, unopened.
With:
Description des machines et procédés pour lesquels des brevets
d’invention ont été pris sous le régime de la loi du 5 Juillet 1844.
Huiles, Essences, Résines, Caoutchouc, Vernis, Cirages, Encres,
Etc. Année 1873, Tome vi. [Paris: l’Imprimerie Nationale, 1873.]
4to. Five folding plates. 26 pp., followed by a blank leaf. Disbound, unopened.
With:
Description des machines et procédés pour lesquels des brevets
d’invention ont été pris sous le régime de la loi du 5 Juillet 1844.
Bougies, Savons. Année 1873, Tome vi. [Paris: l’Imprimerie Nationale, 1873.] 4to. Two folding plates. 14 pp., followed by a blank
leaf. Disbound, unopened.
With:
Description des machines et procédés pour lesquels des brevets d’invention ont été pris sous le régime de la loi du 5 Juillet
1844. Corps Gras, Bougies, Savons, Parfumerie. Année 1884,
Tome l. [Paris: l’Imprimerie Nationale, 1884.] 4to. Two plates
(one of which is folding). 14 pp., followed by a blank leaf.
Disbound, one plate with a corner torn off just touching one
word, unopened.
[  ]
Beautifully Framed
68 (PERFUME LABELS.) Montpellier, c. 1800.
Framed: 46.5cm x 67.7cm. Individual labels range from 2cm x
6cm to 4.5cm x 7cm.$950.00
A lovely collection of thirty perfume bottle labels from the
firm of Dubois “Marchand á Montpellier.” Scents range from
eau de citron to eau d’or to eau de Belle de Nuit.
In fine condition (it appears that the printed labels were
never used).
The Art of the Table
69 PERKINS, John. Floral designs for the table;
being directions for its ornamentation with
leaves, flowers, & fruit. London: Wyman &
Sons, 1877.
Large oblong 12mo. (20.7cm x 32.5cm). Twenty-four full-page
color lithograph plates. 38, [2] pp. Publishers quarter-cloth
over printed boards.
$4000.00
The FIRST & ONLY EDITION of this very rare and handsome Victorian manual for floral table decoration. Illustrated
with twenty-four original colored designs, the text provides
lists of plants to be used with a focus on flowers but including
ornamental leaves and berries. Each plate is accompanied by
descriptive text and table designs include: the dinner table in
winter (with white chrysanthemums, nephrolepis exaltata, begonia diversifolia, and scarlet geraniums); a cricket lucheon
table (geraniums, yellow caceolaria, and red-leaf coleus, all to
match the colors of Zingari, an old English cricket club); the
hunt breakfast table (with stag’s horn fern, foxgloves, hare’s
foot fern, and winter cherry); a wedding breakfast table (including blooming orange trees, white roses, maidenhair fern,
[  ]
myrtles, camellias, and lily of the valley); the Christmas dinner
table (with fine-leaved ivy, small apples, sprays of mistletoe,
and winter cherries); and a dinner table which has the word
“Welcome” spelled out in ivy. From the title page we learn
that Perkins was the “head gardener for twenty-nine years to
the late and present Lord Henniker.” Also included in many
of the designs are confectionary creations, fruits, and lamps.
When noting in the conclusion that the designs are intended
to “serve as indications, or lines of departure” from which
others can arrange the table, Perkins goes on to point out that
“there is literally no limit that floral design can reach, as we are
forcibly reminded by Nature herself, who has never yet produced two leaves, two flowers, or two human beings precisely
similar in all respects.”
A very good copy of a rare book. The publisher’s binding is
in wonderful condition and has a binder’s ticket on the rear
pastedown (“Bound by Wyman & Sons, 74 & 75, Queen St.,
W.C.”). With the signature of T. Slaney Lyton, 1886, on the
upper pastedown.
¶ OCLC: Michigan State Univeristy, New York Botanical
Garden Library, University of North Carolina (Greensboro),
Cleveland Botanical Garden, Cleveland Public Library, and one
location in Europe at the Victoria & Albert Museum.
70 (PHOTOGRAPH.) Equipe de la “Cloche” 1er
Octobre 1909.
26.7cm x 34.5cm (photograph alone: 16.6cm x 22.5cm). Printed by Xavier Bick from Dijon. Some wear and spotting to the
board on which the photograph is mounted. $200.00
A charming early photograph of twelve men and boys from the
kitchen of La Cloche, a restaurant which continues in Dijon.
They are all sitting or standing together outside, all appearing
quite serious in their toques and aprons.
[  ]
71
A Unique Issue?
[PLAIGNE.] L’art de faire d’ameliorer et de
conserver les vins, ou le parfait vigneron. Paris:
Samson, 1782.
12mo. Woodcut head and tailpieces. 2 p.l., vii-viii, xvi, [17]-348,
pp. Contemporary quarter-calf over pastepaper boards, flat spine
gilt, brown morocco lettering piece on spine, later endpapers.
$3750.00
An extremely rare issue of this classic in French 18th-century
wine-making. The first edition was published in 1772 (252 pp.
only) and by 1803, after going through three different titles,
the work had reached its sixth edition. This is the only copy
we have been able to locate with the printer’s name changed to
“Samson” (on a cancel slip, pasted down, and in manuscript).
Jean Jacques Samson was a printer-bookseller who operated on
the Quai des Augustins and flourished from 1756–1788. From
his Catalogue des livres (first ed.: 1785) we learn that he published
works on “Théologie, Jurisprudence, Sciences et arts, Belleslettres, [et] Histoire.” For more on Samson, see OCLC.
A handsome copy of Plaigne’s recommendations on how to
make wine. After an historical introduction, Plaigne discusses
climate, grape varieties, fermentation, conservation and adulteration, the different types of wine produced in Europe, wine’s
color, how to improve wine (with specific instructions for the
wines from Germany & Spain), how to clarify wines, how to
make champagne (50 pp.), and how wines are made and conserved in Germany, Spain, and the Canary Islands.
A very good copy of an extremely rare issue of an important
book. From the library of Bernard Chwartz.
¶ Not in OCLC though they do record the Lamay 1782 issue
at Davis, the Staatsbibliothek (Augsburg), and four locations
in France; not in Bitting, Cagle, Fritsch, Oberlé (who does have
the 1783 ed.: no. 937), Simon (who, in his Vinaria, records the
1781 & 1785 eds., p. 17), nor Vicaire.
[  ]
A Handsome Copy of the First Cookbook
72 PLATINA, Bartolomeo. De honesta voluptate
et valetudine. [Venice: Joane Tacuinu de Trino,
1517.]
4to. Numerous woodcut initials. [4], LXXII ll. Early limp
vellum, edges stained red.
$12,000.00
A particularly nice copy of an early edition of the first cookbook ever published. As Simon has noted: “The author deals
with the mode of living most beneficial to the human body,
the pleasures of the table and how best to enjoy one’s meals
and have good health; he discourses upon the quality of many
varieties of meat, fish, fruits, vegetables, etc., the best manner
to prepare them for the table, and the correct sauces to be
served with various dishes. He also devotes a whole chapter to
wine and vinegar.” – Gastronomica, p. 114. This Venetian edition
is interesting because it includes two recipes for Buzolati, a
ring-shaped Venetian cake made with flour and butter.
“The second section, which is divided into five chapters,
contains around 250 recipes on many varieties of meat, fish,
fruits, and vegetables, along with a consideration of sauces.
Anne Willan in her book Great Cooks and Their Recipes makes a
convincing case that the practical recipes in this section are in
fact those of Martino, an Italian chef who flourished between
the years 1450–1475…. Among the many recipes there are ones
for pasta, salmon (which the author prefers boiled), asparagus, zucchini salad, swallows, eggs, fungi, and sea urchin, and
instructions on how to prepare caviar from sturgeon.” – Une
Affaire de Goût, 1.
Bartolomeo Sacchi, known as Platina (1421–81), was appointed
the first librarian of the Vatican by Sixtus IV in 1475. It was prior
to this, while on a summer retreat on the Tuscan estates of Francesco Gonzaga in the early 1460s, that he wrote De honesta voluptate et valetudine (first ed.: [Rome: Ulrich Han?, c. 1473–75]).
[  ]
ssssssssssssssssssss
Cæpe
Mussels are a kind of shellfish. They ought to be cooked
in a pan without water. When you see the shells open
because of the heat, put in verjuice with a bit of ground
pepper and chopped parsley, and mix and transfer immediately into serving dishes. First, they should be kept
a night or day in well-salted water so that they lose their
natural bitterness.
Item 72, Platina, Venice, 1517
ssssssssssssssssssss
With an early ownership inscription crossed out on the
title page.
The woodcut initials and typography are particularly charming in this edition. Clean and crisp throughout.
¶ OCLC: Library of Congress, Northwestern University,
National Library of Medicine, University of Chicago, Lehigh
University (PA), Indiana University, and University of Michigan.
73
An Exceedingly Rare Work on Roast Chicken
(POULTRY.) Ensuyt le pris que les poulailliers,
regratiers: rotisseurs: et to[utes] autres: vendront chascune piece de vollaille: et gibier: et
aussi ce quilz auront pour icelle larder appareiller: et cuyre avec les deffences de vendre ne en
exiger plus grand pris que celuy qui est contenu cy après. [Paris: N.p., 1546.]
4to. Large woodcut Royal coat-of-arms on title, one woodcut initial, lettre bâtarde. [4] pp. Full red morocco by Cuzin,
spine lettered in gilt, small ink-stain to front cover.
$12,000.00
FIRST EDITION. An extremely rare and beautifully printed
price and regulation guide for the Paris poulty and fowl trade.
A valuable document giving detailed information on the gastronomic customs of Renaissance Paris.“All kinds of roast
fowls were offered for sale on the stalls of medieval ‘poulterers,’ who did not belong to any particular merchant corporation or craft guild. These poulterers sold the birds ready cooked,
and in Paris, from the Middle Ages to the Revolution, they operated in the Rue de la Huchette, taking their spits and braziers
out of service only during lent….Poultry featured on the menus
of the clergy as well as the secular middle classes, popular malice crediting monks with a weakness for capons. The fattened
[  ]
pullet, out of fashion since Roman times, reappeared in the
fourteenth century.” – Toussaint-Samat, A History of Food, pp.
341–42.
The prices of all sorts of roast fowl (some of which are nowadays near extinction) and poultry are given. Poulterers acting
against these regulations face confiscation of their merchandize and will be put in the pillory for three hours. This edict
is signed in print “Morin and Seguyer” at the chambre de la
police on Wednesday, October 20, 1546. The final paragraph
lists places where this edict was to be read to the public by the
town crier.
From the collection of Marcel Jeanson (the well-known
collector of books on hunting and ornithology) with his bookplate on the upper pastedown and the bookplate of H. Gallice
on the verso of front fly-leaf.
¶ Vicaire 709. Not in the Bibliothèque nationale de France
on-line catalogue, OCLC, or RLIN.
Guyere Cheese; Unrecorded?
74 POURIAU, Armand Florent. Du commerce
du lait, destiné a l’alimentation parisienne.
De la fabrication du fromage de gruyère dans
l’Yonne. Paris: Audot, [1873].
4to. Nineteen wood-engravings in the text. 32 pp. Original
printed wrappers, entirely unopened.
$250.00
The extremely rare FIRST SEPARATE EDITION of a report
of two trips taken by the École d’agriculture de Grignon. The
first was to the dairy at Montereau to see how milk was processed that was destined for consumption in Paris. The second
was to Villeneuve-la-Guyard where M. Lecomte showed the
students and teachers of the École his new shop to make gruyère. This is an extract from the Journal de l’Agriculture, November-December, 1873.
[  ]
Pouriau was the author of La laiterie (first ed.: 1872), an
overview of butter and cheese fabrication in France and other
countries, which went through several editions.
¶ Not in OCLC, RLIN, or any of the gastronomic bibliographies.
75
Extremely Rare & Beautifully Illustrated
PRESTA, Giovanni. Degli ulivi delle ulive, e
della maniera di cavar l’olio. Naples: Stamperia
Reale, 1794.
Large 4to. Four folding plates. 4 p.l., viii, 9–316 pp. Contemporary half-vellum over drab boards. $12,500.00
The scarce FIRST EDITION of Presta’s study of olive cultivation and olive oil production in Puglia, Italy. After conducting experiments for nearly ten years, Presta advises that
the underground crushers then in use be replaced by modern
olive mills. He also proposes the removal of the olive pits
[  ]
before making olive oil. He then devotes an entire chapter to
his experiments on this method and demonstrates how the
taste was superior.
Since Roman times olive growing has been a source of wealth
in southern Italy. In particular the oil of Gallipoli was much
in demand and received a greater price than that of other oils.
By the nineteenth century, Gallipoli had over thirty-five mills
working to produce over 80,000 kg of oil per month.
The four beautiful folding plates depict the various kinds
of olives as well as machinery for crushing and extracting oil.
Presentation copy.
Giovanni Presta (1720–1797) was a physician and agronomist
who devoted much of his life to conducting experiments. His
works were praised by writers as diverse as the Swiss naturalist Carl Ulisses von Salis-Marschlins (1762–1818), the British
traveller Henry Swinburne (1743–1803) and the British botanist C.B. Clarke (1832–1906).
¶ Donno, Bibliografia sistematica dell’olivo e dell’olio di oliva, p. 28;
OCLC: Hagley Museum and seven locations in Europe.
“A Remarkable Statement of the Art of Cookery”
76 [RABISHA, William]. The whole Body of
Cookery dissected, Taught and fully manifested, Methodically, Artificially, and according to the best tradition of the English, French,
Italian, Dutch, &c. London: Giles Calvert, 1661.
8vo. Woodcut headpieces and initials. 20 p.l., 260, [3] pp.
Contemporary blind-rulled calf, red morocco lettering piece
on spine, some restoration to corners, lightly browned and
occasional dampstaining.
$18,500.00
The extremely rare FIRST EDITION of this important 17thcentury English cookbook. “The restoration of King Chales
II in 1660 saw many chefs and servants of the returning nobil-
[  ]
ity back at their stoves cooking as if the Civil War had never
occurred. William Rabisha was ‘Master Cook to many honourable Families before and since the war began;’ ‘His Broths,
Pottages, to the taste and sight, would Esau-like, make some
to sell their right.’ Although little is known about his life and
career, he was evidently brought up in the service of a noble
household, which ‘spared no cost or charge’ in his instruction
and education.
“He left Britain during the Commonwealth and evidently
worked at the Royal court while it was in exile. His cookery
book went through five editions….The text is a remarkable
statement of the art of cookery as it was in the 1660s, and proved
to be surprisingly influential over the period: there are examples of wholesale borrowing from his recipes as late as the middle of the eighteenth century.” – from the Prospect Books facsimile of the 1682 edition.
The initial blank is inscribed on the recto ‘Mary Long her
Book’ and ‘Mary Noave her Book 1750’ (twice). Bookplate of
Charles Whibley on inside cover.
¶ See Bitting and Cagle for later editions; ESTC: British
Library, the Bodleian Library, Harvard, and the University of
Chicago; OCLC adds the University of Pennsylvania.
On Manure, Like New & Unrecorded
77 RE, Filippo. Dei letami e delle altre sostanze
adoperate in Italia. Mira: Dalla Società Tipografica Letteraria, 1810.
8vo. Two folding engraved plates. viii, 346 pp. Contemporary
blue semi-stiff wrappers, entirely untrimmed, bright and crisp
throughout.$1250.00
The extremely rare FIRST EDITION of Re’s (1763–1817)
study of manure and its uses as fertilizer. Chapters discuss various types of animal dung and its properties, including manure
[  ]
ssssssssssssssssssss
A Sallet of green Pease
When your green pease appear, about a handful and half
from the ground, cut off enough to boyl for your sallet,
let your liquor boyl before you put it in; when it is tender, pour it forth into your cullender, let all the water
be drained clean out of it into a dish, with some drawn
butter; season it with Salt, and hack it with your knife,
and toss it together in the butter, so dish it up. Thus
may you do with turnip or raddish-tops, that are young.
Item 76, Rabisha, London, 1661
ssssssssssssssssssss
from cows, horses, mules, pigs, sheep, goats, birds, and bats,
to name but a few. Re also covers methods of composting and
how manure enrichs the soil.
A lovely copy in original state.
¶ Not in OCLC or RLIN.
“The Result of an Inquisitive Disposition”
78 REDDINGTON, William. A Practical treatise on brewing: in which are contained several
instructions and precautions, useful and necessary in the exercise of that art. London: John
Clarke, 1760.
8vo. xvi, 183 pp. Modern quarter-calf over marbled boards in
the style of the period, raised bands, red morocco lettering
piece on spine, double-gilt fillets on spine, faint unimportant
spotting inside. $3000.00
The extremely rare FIRST EDITION of William Reddington’s treatise on how to make beer and ale. “In the following
Treatise, the Reader is not to expect a regular System of this
Art, but a Collection of such practical Observations as were
the Result of an inquisitive Disposition, and a reasoning Turn
of Mind, assisted by great Experience in an extensive Business.” – from the preface. Later, we learn that Reddington was
a successful brewer who “being prevented by Death from publishing [the observations] himself, left them to the Care of a
Friend, Who has caused them to be revised and fitted for the
Press.” These observations are organized into 116 different short
chapters ranging from “The Reason why brown Beer requires
as many Hops as pale Beer” to “How to hop small Beer.”
A good copy. Later editions were published in 1776 and 1780.
¶ ESTC & OCLC: Yale University, University of California
(Berkeley), and the British Library only; Schoellhorn p. 243, no. 65.
[  ]
A Poem on Tuscan Wine –
“One of the Best Works of the 17th Century”
79 REDI, Francesco. Bacco in Toscana. Lucca:
Salvatore, 1728.
Small 8vo. Title page vignette. 84 pp. Contemporary vellum,
spine gilt. $2000.00
A nice copy of an early edition of Francesco Redi’s famous poem
on wine. Redi’s poem is thought to have its beginning in a drinking session at the Academia della Crusca in 1666. The situational irony of this learned body in a state of inebriation is
transferred to Redi’s verse as the praises of solemn literati are
sung by a drunken Bacchus. The poem is filled with references
to classical as well as contemporary wine-making practices.
“After taking his degree in medicine, [Redi] entered the
service of the Colonna family at Rome as a tutor, and held the
position five years. In 1654 he went to Florence, where he acted
as physician to the Grand dukes Ferdinand II and Cosimo III.
He was constantly engaged in experiments intended to improve the practice of medicine and surgery, and yet found leisure for much literary work….The ‘Bacco in Toscana’ is the best
example of the dithyramb in Italian, and, although deformed
occasionally by obscure imagery and diction, it remains one of
the best works of the seventeenth century.” – Catholic Encyclopedia.
A good copy in a handsome contemporary vellum binding.
With the bookplate of Franz Pollack-Parnau on the upper
pastedown.
¶ OCLC records two locations only: Getty and Cornell
University.
[  ]
A Masked Ball in Granada; Extremely Rare
80 REGLAMENTO para los bayles de mascara
que han de executarse en el teatro de Granada.
Granada: Imprenta de Don Manuel Moreno,
1807.
12mo. [16] pp. Contemporary marbled wrappers bound in
modern pastepaper boards.
$2500.00
The extremely rare FIRST and ONLY EDITION of these
regulations for a masked ball at the “Platea del Teatro” in
Granada during the time of Carnival. At the end is a price list
of what was available to drink and eat at the café of the theater. Included in the list is a taza de café con leche; chocolate; un
vaso de leche caliente; un mollete con manteca; copa de rosoli; barrilitio de
rosoli; un plato de jamon cocido en vino; una libra de ducle de qualiquier
classe; chocolate con pan; un vaso de limon; and una botella de vino.
In very good condition.
¶ OCLC records one location only at the University of
California (San Diego).
81
No Known Location in the American Libraries;
Printed on Pale Blue Paper
REIDER, Jacob Ernst von. Hersbrucks Hopfenbau als Beweis, dass der innländischen
Hopfen B den böhmischen Hopfen, wo nicht
übertreffe, doch ihm ganz gewiss gleich komme.
Bamberg & Leipzig: Kunz, 1819.
8vo. viii, [2], 190 pp. Contemporary grey boards, red morocco
lettering piece on spine. $3000.00
An extremely fine copy of the FIRST EDITION of this very
rare work on hops for beer-making. In the Middle Ages, Hersbruck was situated on the “Golden Route” between Nurem-
[  ]
berg and Prague, which brought considerable prosperity to the
Bavarian town. One of the major commodities imported to
Nuremberg was Bohemian hops for brewing.
In this work, Reider, a town official at Hersbruck, describes
the possibilities of growing hops in the region. He states that
locally grown hops were equal or superior to Bohemian hops
and would add considerable wealth to the area. Reider describes
the varieties of hops most suitable to be grown in Hersbruck to
make great beer; the quality of the soil and climate; methods of
planting and training; diseases; and techniques of harvesting.
This copy is spectacularly fresh. From the library of the
Dukes of Bavaria.
¶ OCLC: seven locations in Europe only.
“The First Writer to Treat Scientifically
of the Process of Brewing”
82 RICHARDSON, John. Remarks on a pamphlet entitled hydrometical observations and
experiments in the brewery. London: Robinson,
Sewell, and Browne, 1785.
8vo. 95 pp. Original light blue wrappers, stitched as issued,
edges of wrapper chipped, a one-inch oil stain on the lower
wrapper affecting the margin of the first signature, untrimmed.
$1500.00
FIRST EDITION. In 1785, James Baverstock wrote Hydrometrical observations and experiments in the brewery, a study of beer-making. Baverstock had criticized John Richardson’s Statical estimates
of the materials of brewing (1784) and the current work, Remarks on
a pamphlet, is Richardson’s reply.
Richardson was a “writer on brewing, [who] chiefly lived
at Hull, although he had studied brewing in many other parts
of the kingdom. He is the first writer to treat scientifically of
[  ]
the process of brewing.” – D.N.B. In his works, Richardson
elaborates upon the “utility of the thermometer and saccharometer in brewing instead of determining quantities by rule of
thumb. He was the first to bring to the knowledge of brewers
the use and value of the saccharometer, as Combrune in 1762
had first recommended the thermometer.” – ibid.
In original state and with Richardson’s signature on the
half-title page.
¶ ESTC & OCLC: Yale University, Lamar University (Texas), the British Library, one location in Germany.
83
RICHARDSON, John. Statical estimates of
the materials of brewing. London: Robinson,
1784.
8vo. Folding engraved frontispiece and printed tables in the
text. xx, [4], 243, [9] pp. Contemporary drab boards, bumped,
lightly rubbed overall, light foxing on the first several leaves,
untrimmed. $3000.00
A very good copy of the FIRST EDITION of John Richardson’s (1777–98) study of how to make beer and the various
instruments needed.
This work is extremely rare in American libraries with only
one US location recorded by ESTC and no US locations in
OCLC (see below). The folding plate depicts several apparatus, including the saccharometer. For more on Richardson see
item 82 above.
A very good copy in original state. With Richardson’s signature on p. 243.
¶ OCLC lists nine locations in Europe to which ESTC
adds the Library Company of Philadelphia, one location in
Canada, and three more UK locations.
[  ]
“Groundwork for All Future Books” – Sagarin
84 RIMMEL, Eugene. The book of perfumes.
London: Chapman & Hall, 1865.
8vo. Frontispiece, twelve plates (one of which is in color), and
numerous illustrations in the text. xx, 266 pp. Original giltstamped purple cloth, spine sunned, slight wear overall, all
edges gilt. $600.00
The FIRST EDITION of Rimmel’s popular history of perfume. “Every branch of learning produces its outstanding
historian. Perfumery is no exception. The man who recorded its
story was Eugene Rimmel, a perfumer doing business in London in the middle of the nineteenth century.
“The Book of Perfumes…is not merely a delightful history of
the art, readable to this day. It was the spadework and groundwork for all future books on the history of pleasant-smelling
substances. It is well documented, interestingly written, and
abounds in poetic quotations.” – Sagarin, The Science and art of
perfumery, p. 206.
¶ Morris, Fragrance, p. 182: “The work by the writer-perfumer
was the most accurate and clear presentation of the industry
to appear at that time.” Not in Montesquiou, Pays des Aromates,
or Wiggishoff.
85
An Unrecorded Work on Ovens
ROMMERDT, Carl Christian. Allgemein verständliche Anweisung, Stubenöfen und KüchKochöfen. Eisenach, Joh. Georg Ernst Mittekindt, 1803.
8vo. Three hand-colored folding plates. 8 p.l., 66, [2] pp. Contemporary pale green boards, small gilt-roll pattern and fillet around sides, light wear overall, pale orange pastepaper
endpapers, short tear at the hinge of the final folding plate
affecting about one inch of image.
$2500.00
[  ]
The extremely rare FIRST EDITION of Rommerdt’s guide
to heaters for the home and ovens for the kitchen written in
an effort to provide for healthy living. Although we have been
unable to find a location for the current work, Rommerdt did
also publish works on forest management and surveying; a
second edition appeared one year later in Eisenach.
The large hand-colored folding plates depict various furnaces and ovens. With the library stamp of Rolf Dittmar on
the upper pastedown.
¶ Not in OCLC, RLIN, or Weiss (who does list another
copy of the same year, different publisher same city, but without the pagination).
Metal Silos for the Preservation of Flour and Grain
86 SAINTE-FARE BONTEMPS, Chevalier &
DEJEAN, Jean François Aimé. Economie publique, résumé de toutes les expériences faites
pour constater la bonté du procédé proposé
par M. le Comte Dejean, pour la conservation
illimitée des grains et farines. Paris: Banchelier,
March 1824.
8vo. 40 pp. Original pink wrappers, stitched as issued, slight
wear with some loss of paper along spine.
$500.00
The very rare FIRST EDITION of Sainte-Fare Bontemps and
Dejean’s recommendations for the storage and preservation of
grain and flour. Specific past construction projects are discussed,
tables are provided for an overview of the use of metal silos, and
arguments for their use are noted for different regions in France.
For the good of the French public and to meet the country’s economic need, the work was inserted into the Annales de
l’Industrie Nationale et Étrangère for the month of March, 1824.
A very good copy in original state.
¶ OCLC records microfilm copies only in the US.
[  ]
An Unrecorded Guide to Country & City Living
87 SCHATZKÄSTLEIN FÜR DEN BÜRGER
UND LANDMANN oder auserlesene Sammlung vorzüglicher und erprobter Rathschläge,
Mittel und Rezepte. Glogau: Neuen Günterschen Buchhandlung, 1823.
12mo. 112 pp.; 112 pp.; 128 pp. Contemporary marbled-boards,
rubbed, paper lable on spine, light foxing throughout due to
paper quality.
$1000.00
An extremely rare early edition of this guide to living in the
city and country. There is no copy of any edition in OCLC and
Weiss knew of only later editions of parts one and two. In our
copy, part one is indicated as the third edition; parts two and
three are apparently the first editions. Sections provide cookery and household recipes as well as advice on gardening and
animal husbandry.
Contemporary ownership signature on each title page.
Roasted Meats in 18th-Century Germany
88 SCHREGER, Odilo. Der Vorsichtige und nach
heutigem Geschmacke wohlerfahrne Speismeister. Augsburg: Matthäus Riegers sel. Söhnen,
1778.
8vo. Engraved frontispiece, title page printed in red and black.
15 p.l., 484, [25] pp. Contemporary half-vellum over marbled
boards, printed paper label on spine, edges sprinkled red, bright
and crisp throughout.
$2500.00
Item 88, Schreger
The very rare Second Edition of Schreger’s popular cookbook,
first published as Speiss-Meister in 1766 and for which OCLC does
not record a location. The first section discusses various foods
and their properties and is organized according to meats, fish,
[  ]
non-meat foods, spices, and different drinks. The second section
is a cookbook of more than 400 recipes. Schreger (1697–1774)
also wrote on household economy and medicine. The charming engraved frontispiece depicts a busy kitchen and appears for
the first time.
A particularly good copy of a rare German guide to food
and cookery.
With an ownership inscription on the title page dated 1783
and the library stamp of Rolf Dittmar on the upper pastedown.
¶ OCLC records three locations only: the New York Academy of Medicine, Lilly Library, and the Library of Congress;
Weiss 3484.
With a Section on Wines from California
89 SEMPÉ, Raymond. Étude sur les vins exotiques. Bordeaux: Feret et fils, 1882.
8vo. Engraved wood frontispiece (on recto of halftitle page)
and numerous tables in the text. 2 p.l. (including frontispiece),
xiv, 195, [5] pp. Original printed wrappers, almost entirely unopened, spine with some wear and loss. $900.00
The rare FIRST & ONLY EDITION of Raymond Sempé’s
study of “exotic” wines. Countries covered include: Algeria,
Portugal, Spain, Italy, Hungary, Greece, Turkey, Roumania and
Serbia, Russia, Switzerland, Germany, the United States, Chile,
and Australia. There is a six-page section on “Vins Californiens” which tells us that California “commencent à présenter
en vins une production sérieuse.” Writing in 1882, Sempé then
estimates that California has approximately 13,099 hectares
(32,368 acres) in production. Today there are more than half a
million acres of grapes in production.
[  ]
This publication was issued on the occasion of the Exposition Général de Bordeaux. The Exposition itself is depicted
in the frontispiece of the Étude.
¶ OCLC: University of California (Davis), California State
University (Fresno), and one in Europe.
“Wholesome and Pleasant”
90 SHAKLEFORD, Mrs. Ann. The Modern art
of cookery improved. London: Newberry, 1767.
12mo. xxiv, 284, [14] pp. Contemporary calf, spine renewed in
the style of the period, raised bands, red morocco lettering piece
on spine, corners bumped with some restoration, corner of
K4 restored barely affecting four words (but still legible), occasional spotting (especially on the first signature). $3500.00
The FIRST EDITION of Ann Shakleford’s cookbook of
“dishes which are cheap and profitable, as well as wholesome
and pleasant.” Sections provide a marketing manual; a cookbook of more than 500 recipes; and a seventeen-page chapter
entitled “An Essay on aliments” which covers the various health
properties of foodstuffs as well as the physiology of digestion.
The author “has avoided the errors which those people give
into, who are unacquainted with the nature and affinities of the
materials they have in hand, namely, that of using ingredients
that counteract each other, and thereby increase the expence of
the dish without improving its flavour. But errors of this sort
not only make dishes expensive, they are also by that means
frequently rendered unwholesome: to remove any evil of that
kind, which ought above all things to be guarded against, the
whole of this book has been submitted to the inspection of a
physician of eminence…” – from the preface.
From the title page we learn that Shakleford was from
Westminster and that the section on health as been written
“by a physician.”
[  ]
ssssssssssssssssssss
To dress a Dish of Lobsters
Boil four lobsters, one large, and three smaller; when
boiled, lay the large lobster before a good fire, and baste
it with butter, pick all the meat out of the other lobsters, except the chines; mince them in the same manner
as you dressed your crab, pepper and salt the chines,
and split them and broil them; when all is ready, take
the lobster from the fire, break off the claws, bruise
them, and lay them on each side of the body, near the
head; split the tail, lay your lobsters bodies round the
roasted lobster, filled with the minced meat, and the
broiled chines round them: send them to table with plain
butter in a boat.
Item 90, Shakleford, The Modern art of cookery, 1767
ssssssssssssssssssss
On the recto of the upper free endpaper is an inscription:
“A. Porter’s Book, the gift of the Countess of Northfolk at
Rose Hall, 1802” and “Edward Porter’s Book given to him By
his Dear Mother A. Porter.”
¶ ESTC & OCLC: Columbia Teachers College, University
of California (Los Angeles), Indiana University, New York
Public Library, Library of Congress, National Library of
Scotland, British Library, Oxford, and Leeds; Maclean p. 131;
Oxford p. 95.
91
No Location in OCLC
DER SORGFÄLTIGE HAUS- und Wirtschfats-Verwalter…Und bey dieser newuen
Auglage Mit einem wohl eingerichteten Kochund Trenchier-Büchlein Und mit Dem wohl
unterwiesenen Brandtwein-Brenner und Destillirer, auch einer Anweisung vom ConfectBacken vermehret. Breßlau & Leipzig: Daniel
Pietsch, 1746.
4to. Finely engraved frontispiece, title page in red and black
ink, and three woodcuts in the text. 3 p.l., 708, [32] pp. Contemporary vellum, title stamped in gilt on spine. $2500.00
The very much expanded Third Edition of this extremely rare
guide to country living. Sections discuss accounting, cultivation, farming, gardening, bee management, livestock, and veterinary medicine for horses and cows. Pages 462–536 contain
recipes for various household secrets, including many medicinal recipes as well as instructions for making inks, how to make
a bird sing, and how to clarify wines. The rest of the book
(pp. 536–708) describes how to make beer, brandy, and wine
as well as hundreds of cookery dishes ranging from lemon
soup to salmon to pfannkuchen. In good condition.
¶ Weiss 3638. Not in OCLC or RLIN (nor are any of the
other editions).
[  ]
An Important Early Work on English Cider
92 STAFFORD, Hugh. A Treatise on cyder-making, founded on long practice and experience.
London: E. Cave, 1753.
4to. One folding plate and two woodcuts in the text. v, [3], 68
pp. Original blue “double” wrappers, stitched as issued, some
wear to the wrappers with loss of paper and or near the spine,
corners of the first few leaves dog-eared. $14,500.00
The extremely rare FIRST EDITION of this important and
thorough work on cider; lacking from the major English agricultural and fruit histories and bibliographies (some of which
are aware of later editions – see below). This is a particularly
wonderful copy as it still retains its original wrappers and is
stitched as issued.
Hugh Stafford (1674–1734) was a well-known cider enthusiast from Pynes, Devonshire, who is especially remembered for
his descriptions of different varieties of cider apples and their
qualities. Sections of A Treatise on cyder-making discuss the
apple harvest; how to pulp the apples and what devices to use;
the management of the pulp before expressing the juice; the
presses and the vessels to receive the juice; fermentation methods; how to prepare casks and racks; and how to cure “distempers” in the cider. The fine folding engraved plate depicts
a man operating an apple press and the two small woodcuts
illustrate additional apparatus, including a device to be used
as a “Poor-Mans’ Cyder-Press.”
His catalogue of the cider apples in Herefordshire and
Devonshire “with their excellencies and History” includes a
description of the White-Sour; the Elliot; the Herefordshire
Red-Streak; the Fox-Whelp; the Backamore; the Midyate or
Meadiate; the Royal Wilding; the Stiar; the Cowley-Bridge
Crab; the Common Crab; and the Cocko Gee.
[  ]
“As Cyder…is generally allowed to be an wholesome
drink, and as it is the natural produce of our own country, he
will surely be thought to contribute something towards the
good of the public, who gives infallible directions for making
it universally agreeable, by varying it so as to suit every palate,
and by improving the flavor and the quality, both of the rough
and the smooth…and giving it the sparkle of Champaign,
without an eager and windy fermentation, and rendering it
more spirituous than a small wine tho’ less inflaming.” – from
the Preface.
A note regarding the binding: interestingly, there are in fact
two sets of contemporary wrappers. The inner wrapper is in
quite good shape, bears the title of the work in a contemporary hand, and is stitched as issued. The second wrapper, which
is made of the same paper, is wrapped around the first as a
“wrapper’s wrapper.” From the “shadowing” of the title onto
the outer wrapper and the matching marks from its wear and
use, it is likely that this outer wrapper is also contemporary.
Preserved in a clamshell box.
¶ ESTC: British Library, Chetham’s Library (Manchester),
Boston Athenaeum, Historical Society of Pennsylvania, &
University of California (Davis). Not in Ernley, Henrey, Janson (who knows of the second edition only), McDonald, or
Raphael. Fussell has seen the 1755 edition, but questions the
existence of our 1753 ed. (see his More old English farming books,
1731–1793, p. 27).
[  ]
93
“Spanish Dishes” in California
THE TIMES COOK BOOK – NO. 2; 957
cooking and other recipes by California
women. Los Angeles: Times-Mirror Co., 1905.
8vo. 105, [1] pp. Original black-stamped blue cloth boards,
paper restoration to the gutter of the title page (not affecting
text) and to the final blank leaf (see below). $400.00
The FIRST EDITION of this second of the Los Angeles
Times cookbooks. The first was half as long and was published 1902. “The Los Angeles Times began a series of recipe
books based on its cooking contests in 1902. The first of these
has been elusive (cf. Glozer)….Usually these books contained
recipes for “Spanish” dishes, in English and Spanish.” – Strehl
11. These “Spanish dishes” actually number at seventy-nine
and range from Spanish fish stew to Spanish flitter puffs to
chiles rellenos.
A very good copy and unusual to find in the blue boards.
Please note that six recipes from other cookbooks and magazines have been glued onto the blank rear free endpaper (which,
although entirely secure, has also had some extensive paper
restoration work).
¶ Glozer 173 (misdating the No. 2 edition); OCLC: Cornell University, California State University (San Bernardino),
Claremont College, Los Angeles Public Library, University of
California (San Diego), Workman & Temple Family Homestead Museum, University of Denver, Indiana University,
Michigan State University, Texas Woman’s University, Univeristy of Utah, Yale. Not in Bitting or Brown.
[  ]
ssssssssssssssssssss
Spanish Shortcake
Three eggs, whole of two, white of one saved for frosting, one cup sugar, one-half cup butter, two-thirds cup
of milk, two cups flour, one teaspoon baking powder.
Cream butter and sugar, and beat in eggs till very light,
then add the mild and flour with baking powder siften
in it, and one-half teaspoon ground cinnamon. Bake in
shallow tins and put on a thin frosting made with white
of one egg and one teaspoon ground cinnamon. Put in
oven and brown a golden brown. The cinnamon turns
the frosting pink.
Item 93, The Los Angeles Times Cook Book,
No. 2, 1905
ssssssssssssssssssss
“Sehr Interessant” – Schraemli
94 TRENCHIER-BUCH. Tübingen: Johann
Georg Cotta, 1766.
Small 8vo. Woodcut title page device, head and tailpieces, and
18 woodcut carving illustrations in the text. 39 pp. Fine contemporary quarter-calf with raised bands over speckled boards,
three crossed out signatures and one inked out early library
stamp on title page affecting one letter of the imprint.
$3500.00
FIRST EDITION. A charming early instruction book on how
to carve pigeon, chicken, capon, rooster, goose the Italian way,
duck, snipe, partridge, pheasant, leg of mutton, leg of beef,
rabbit, wild boar’s head, calf ’s head, and suckling pig. The
numerous woodcuts illustrate each of the animals, with numbered points of carving to indicate the order and placement
of cuts for the optimum savory results.
[  ]
Extremely rare. It was also published in the same year with
the Neues wohl eingerichtetes Koch-Buch and, then, again on its own
in 1769, 1777, 1782, 1783, and 1900. In the past 28 years, German auction records show only one copy of each of the 1769,
1783, and 1900 editions.
A crisp copy, bound in a fine contemporary binding.
¶ Drexel 36 for the 1769 ed., 694 and 1070 for the 1783 ed.;
Schraemli, Zwietausend Jahre gastronomische Literatur, [1942], exhibition catalogue, 43 for the joint 1766 edition and mention of
the 1783 ed.; and Weiss 2778–9 for the joint 1766 ed., the 1782
ed. (an error for the 1783 ed.), and a footnote concerning
the 1777 ed. Not in Bitting, Georg, Maggs Food and Drink, NUC
(which lists the 1783 edition: NIC only), Oberlé, Simon, or
Vicaire.
95
An Unrecorded Swiss Cookbook
LE TRÉSOR des villes et des campagnes ou
la cuisinière a l’usage des ménagéres et des
jeunes personnes. Porrentruy, Victor Michel.
1862.
8vo. vi, 295 pp. Contemporary dark green quarter-calf over
marbled boards, spine gilt, minor chipping to tail of spine and
½ inch crack to upper lower joint, occasional light spotting. $2500.00
The extremely rare FIRST EDITION of this Swiss collection of more than 600 recipes arranged into various categories:
soupes & potages; boulettes; des légumes; laitage, oeufs & fritures; entremets; poissons, écrevisses, escargots & grenouilles; and des pâtés; viandes
et ragoûts. There are also sixty-eight recipes for people who are
ill and a section devoted to the “manière de saler le porc et de
faire le boudin.”
A good copy of an extremely rare Swiss cookbook.
¶ Not in the Bibliotheque Nationale, OCLC, or RLIN.
[  ]
The Supressed Fourth Volume
96 TRICAUD, Anthelme. Pièce fugitives anciennes et modernes des auteurs connus et
inconnus, et les fragmens de celles qu’on ne
scauroit plus trouver. Paris: Giffart, 1705.
12mo. Woodcut device on title page and one woodcut in the
text. 1 p.l., v, [1], 99, [1] pp. Early 19th-century quarter-calf over
marbled boards, red morocco lettering piece on spine, spine
gilt, title page trimmed close slightly affecting a few letters. $1000.00
The FIRST EDITION of the extremely rare fourth volume
of Tricaud’s Pièce fugitives, a compilation of various rare and
curious literary passages. The current volume is of interest to
the student of gastronomy as the largest chapter is concerned
with the art of the table and is entitled “Sur l’ancien usage de
se saluer à table & de s’exciter à boire.”
This fourth volume is particularly rare as it was immediately
suppressed after publication (see Quérard, IX, 552–53 and
Hain, Presse Périodique, 37). The first three parts were published
separately one year earlier.
¶ OCLC records a location at the University of Wisconsin
(Madison) only. Not in Bitting, Cagle, or Vicaire.
Home-Making Toys by Louis Vuitton
97 (VUITTON.) La Petite Blanchisseuse. [Paris?:
Louis Vuitton, c.1920.]
85cm x 43cm paperboard backing supporting 18 play objects
made from wood, metal, cloth, and feathers.
$6000.00
A REMARKABLE SURVIVAL. A game for young girls to
pretend (and learn) the duties of the washerwoman and housekeeper. Elements include: a broom, an iron and ironing board,
[  ]
a Vuitton bag (printed in two different colors), dust pan, and
a carpet beater. The illustration mounted on one of the game’s
toys and then repeated on the card backing depicts four young
girls washing clothes, ironing, folding, and putting away laundry.
At the bottom right is a gold Vuitton label: “Louis Vuitton, son
magasin de jouets, Paris, 70 Champs Elysées.” One small piece
of the bag’s handle is missing, otherwise in fine condition.
¶ Not listed in the catalogues published by the Bibliothèque Forney.
A Fine Copy of a Fragile Promotional Cookbook
98 WEHMAN, Henry J. Wehman’s cook book:
a complete collection of valuable recipes suited
to every household and all tastes. New York:
N.p., 1890.
8vo. 100 pp. (including wrappers). Original wrappers printed in
green ink and illustrating a woman in the kitchen. $250.00
The FIRST EDITION of this paperback collection of more
than four hundred recipes ranging from beefsteak with oysters to codfish balls to apple snow.
This is a particularly fine copy of a very fragile cookbook.
¶ OCLC: Library of Congress, Duke, Johnson & Wales,
and the Milwaukee City Library System.
“Full of Words of Wisdom” – Oxford
99 THE YOUNG WOMAN’S COMPANION,
or, frugal housewife. Containing the most
approved methods of pickling, preserving,
potting, collaring, confectionary, managing and
colouring foreign wines and spirits, making
English wines, compounds, &c. &c. and also the
art of cookery, containing directions for dress[  ]
Item 99, The Young Woman’s Companion
ssssssssssssssssssss
Pigeons
Put into the bodies of your pigeons a seasoning made
with pepper and salt, a few cloves and mace, some seeet
herbs, and a piece of butter rolled in flour. Tie up the
necks and vents, and half roast them. Then put them
into a stew-pan, with a quart of good gravy, a little white
wine, a few pepper corns, three or four blades of mace,
a bit of lemon, a bunch of sweet-herbs, and a small onion. Stew them gently till they are enough; then take the
pigeons out, and strain the liquor through a sieve; scum
it and thicken it in your stew-pan, with a piece of putter rolled in flour; then put in the pigeons, with some
pickled mushrooms; stew it about five minutes, put the
pigeons into a dish, and pour the sauce over them.
Item 99, The Young woman’s companion,
Manchester, 1811
ssssssssssssssssssss
ing all kinds of butchers’ meat, poultry, games,
fish, &c. &c. &c. with the complete art of
carving, illustrated and made plain by engravings. Manchester: Russell and Allen, 1811.
8vo. Six engraved plates. 2 p.l., xvi, 540, [16] pp. Contemporary quarter-calf, vellum tips, marbled boards, light foxing on
four preliminary leaves.
$4000.00
The very rare FIRST EDITION of this anonymous “Companion,” covering all areas of a woman’s education from cookery to drawing to writing letters. More than 600 detailed recipes are provided on pickling vegetables, preserving fruits, curing
meats, possets, cordials, confectionary, jellies, and pies, amongst
hundreds others. Advice is also given on marketing, how to
buy meats, poultry, and seafood, along with a calendar on what
to buy and when. The detailed engravings depict methods of
carving and table placements.
Towards the end is a large section (154 pages) which covers
various areas of a woman’s education: letter writing; history;
drawing; geography (including a section on America, “bounded on all sides by the Ocean, as appears from the latest discoveries”); the languages of the earth; and “miscellaneous pieces,” which includes two sections by Benjamin Franklin entitled
“A Petition”(regarding a child’s education) and “On Sleep.”
¶ Cagle 1074; OCLC records two locations only: the New York
Academy of Medicine and Indiana University; Oxford p. 140.
[  ]
From Farming to Master Paintings
100YOUNG, Arthur. A six weeks tour through the
southern counties of England and Wales.
Describing, particularly, I. the present state of
agriculture and manufacturers. II. The different methods of cultivating soil. III. The success attending some late experiments on various grasses, &c. IV. The various prices of labor
and provisions. V. The state of the working poor
in those countries, wherein the riots were most
remarkable….In several letters to a friend by
the author of the farmer’s letters. London: W.
Nicoll, 1768.
8vo. Seven woodcuts in the text. 2 p.l., 284 pp. Contemporary
calf, double gilt-fillet on boards and spine, red morocco label,
¾ inch split at head of upper joint. $1500.00
FIRST EDITION. Arthur Young toured southern England
and Wales in the summer of 1767 to observe agricultural practices. Along the way he gathered information concerning the
cost of labor and the provisions required for the successful
maintenance of a farm. Young relays these discoveries through
eight letters that reveal not only the practical aspects of the
local agriculture, but also the details of the structures he sees,
the relationship between labor and provisions, and the architecture of it’s buildings. For example, in his discussion of Holkam, the house of the Countess of Leicester, he provides not
only a list of the various master paintings to be found there but
also a description of the position of the trees on the path that
leads you to the estate.
In very fine condition. With the ownership stamp “Bond”
on the upper free endpaper. The woodcuts depict various farming apparatus.
¶ Fussell, Old English Farming Books, pp. 28, 71, 84.
[  ]
Subject Index in Item Numbers
Agriculture and Farming (see wine
& viticulture also): 3, 4, 19, 25, 26,
38, 40, 50, 66, 75, 77, 81, 91, 100
Americana: 16, 93, 98, 99
Apples: 51
Art History: 100
Art of the Table: 69, 96
Beer: 9, 37, 48, 65, 78, 81-83
Bread, Baking, & Flour: 1, 12,
14, 15, 86
Butter: 2
Californiana: 93
Carving: 57, 94
Champagne & Sparkling Wine: 17
Chemistry & Distillation: 8, 23,
25, 47
Cheese: 74
Children’s Literature & Education:
18, 44, 47
Cider: 92
Classical History & Literature:
6, 22, 33, 66
Coffee: 42
Cookbooks: 16, 24, 32, 35, 39, 41, 51,
54, 56, 58, 59, 72, 76, 79, 88, 90,
93, 95, 98, 99
Desserts & Confections: 24
Domestic Economy: 17, 38, 60, 63,
87, 91
Economic History: 4, 12, 25, 31, 48,
50, 52, 67, 73-75, 80-83, 85, 92, 100
Festivals, Banqueting, & Balls: 19, 80
Figs: 7
Flowers: 7, 11, 69
Games: 97
Gardening: 11, 30, 64
Honey: 45
Illustrated Books: 28, 69
Japanese Cookery: 57
Law: 1, 2, 73
Manuscripts: 54-57
Meat: 27, 88
Medicine, Diet, & Health: 5, 11,
29, 34, 46, 62
Milk: 10, 49
Menus: 61
Olives & Olive Oil: 75
Perfume & Cosmetics: 8, 47,
67, 68, 84
Photography: 70
Poetry: 17, 18, 27, 79
Poultry: 73
Restaurant & Tavern History:
52, 70
Salt: 2, 53
Sugar Beet: 42
Technology: 31, 85
Tobacco: 2
Veterinary Science and
Zoology: 4, 91
Watercolors: 55
Wine and Viticulture: 2, 13, 17,
72, 28, 43, 55, 71
Women’s Studies: 21, 63, 99
The Antinomian Press, 15 March 2012
600 copies printed letterpress at
the shop of Patrick Reagh
Sebastopol, California
Sometimes a nicer sculpture
is to be able to provide
a living for your
family
v