Battling the Coffee Berry Borer in Hawaii
Transcription
Battling the Coffee Berry Borer in Hawaii
MARCHING Forth Battling the Coffee Berry Borer in Hawaii by Marc Wortman and David Cook J ust three years ago, Hawaii’s coffee industry could call itself blissfully free from the notorious coffee berry borer, which had invaded coffee crops worldwide. This tiny beetle, known as la broca in Spanish, is capable of causing major damage. As the bean hardens, the beetle drills into it and Coffee cherries in Kona, Hawaii. Coffee farmers on the Big Island are battling the coffee industry’s most infamous pest, the coffee berry borer. photo by David Cook 80 roast harms a large amount of producers’ harvest. continued on page 82 May | J u n e 2 0 13 81 Marching Forth | Battling the Coffee Berry Borer in Hawaii (continued) But Hawaii’s free-and-clear status changed In 2012, the beetle’s widespread impact led in August 2010, when the beetle was positively some Kona coffee farms to inform roasters that identified on farms in Kona and, later, in there was serious doubt whether they could parts of the Big Island’s Ka‘u district. All Kona fill their existing obligations and contracts, let coffee farms are now infested, though cherry alone any new ones. Greenwell Farms was forced infestations can range from under 1 percent to to tell prospective buyers that it would be at least nearly 100 percent. No one knows how the beetle a year before the farm would be in a position arrived in Kona, but given the ease of global to sell them green coffee. Situated in the heart shipping and travel, its arrival was inevitable. of the Kona district since 1850, Greenwell not A tiny beetle native to Africa, the coffee berry borer has now been identified in more than 70 purchases coffee cherry from hundreds of countries and is considered the world’s most farmers throughout Kona. The farm is managed harmful pest to coffee crops. The female is about by fourth-generation grower Tommy Greenwell 2 mm long, about the size of a grain of rice, and on just under 100 acres of some of the most the males are about half that size. The presence productive land in the Kona district. Greenwell of the insect can affect the whole economy Farms is closely involved with the fight that depends on coffee production, potentially against the beetle, given the farm’s size and destroying an entire harvest—a major concern involvement in purchasing cherry from other for Kona’s approximately 700 coffee farmers, local growers. who in 2011 harvested 8.3 million pounds of 82 roast In Kona, yield has dropped and grades coffee, valued at $34.4 million, according to the such as Kona Extra Fancy have been difficult most recent data from the National Agricultural to obtain. Growers are having to discard much Statistics Survey. Cherries afflicted by the coffee berry borer. | photo by David Cook only manages a farming operation but also continued on page 84 A close-up of a coffee cherry infested by the coffee berry borer. | photo by David Cook May | J u n e 2 0 13 83 Marching Forth | Battling the Coffee Berry Borer in Hawaii (continued) females come out of the berry, they are ready to lay eggs. You have beetle damage. As a result of falling yields, the price per pound of cherry has a machine in [the cherry that is] producing females. There is a very Many experts on the beetle believe that field sanitation is the most increased to $1.65 per pound in Kona during peak demand. short window when they are outside the berry, and that’s why they effective form of control. Proper sanitation means that every cherry are so difficult to control.” is removed from the farm at the end of the harvest season, including Greenwell Farms has collaborated with the Kona Coffee Farmers Association and the University of Hawaii’s College of Tropical Agriculture and Human A coffee bean and the coffee berry borer. photo by Peggy Greb, USDA As Vega explains, females lay a varying number of eggs; one academic paper tracked 70 eggs within a single cherry, while another one part of the field to another, harvesters are instructed to move the Berry Borer.” In this video, Tommy Greenwell warns of the damage to crops: scientist counted 287 eggs. Because the insects are so tiny, scientists cherry as little as possible. In Kona, farmers did not perform field “We’re seeing a weighted average of between 20 and 25 percent [lower yield]. It’s have not been able to track how far they may travel to find new sanitation prior to the arrival of the coffee berry borer, says Shawn only going to get worse if we don’t start taking care of it now.” The collaboration homes. A pregnant female will live inside one host berry for her Steiman, a Hawaii-based coffee scientist and consultant who works allows for integrated pest management by bringing together the University of lifetime, and her female progeny will fly away to find new berries to with farmers to manage the borer beetle. Hawaii’s technical expertise in plant and soil sciences, the farmers who are colonize. Males cannot fly and remain in their original coffee cherry ultimately responsible for controlling the infestation, and Greenwell Farms, for their entire life. Scientists in different countries have reported Growers must harvest all fruit, including cherries on the ground and which has a vested interest in the solution. life spans ranging from about a month to about a half-year for a between rocks, Vega says. “If you miss one berry, and that berry has single beetle. the insect, that’s enough to start infestation again.” Containment Procedures invest in extra pay for workers’ time in the field. “If I do sanitation Farmers Association in January 2013 with data that he has been keeping on infestation rates for the past two growing seasons. According to the newspaper West Hawaii Today, he was quoted at the time saying, “We do not have control of the beetle yet, though there are a few farmers that do.” Coffee producers have found it difficult to curb the spread of the beetle 84 roast those cherries that fall on the ground. As the beetle can migrate from Resources to produce a tutorial video for farmers called “Controlling the Coffee Greenwell has worked to band growers together, presenting the Kona Coffee A close-up of the coffee berry borer. photo by Eric Erbe, colorized by Chris Pooley, USDA Field Sanitation more parchment due to floaters and consumed or rotten beans resulting from Though sanitation is effective in theory, it is also problematic. Sanitation measures also can be pricey for the producer, who must in my one acre here, and you are my neighbor, and you don’t do sanitation in yours, I’m wasting my time,” Vega says. “So you need Collaboration between farmers is a necessity, as the beetle can coordination. And a lot of people simply won’t do it because they have because it is such an unusual insect, explains Fernando E. Vega, a research quickly migrate to neighboring farms. In Kona, that makes it to pay somebody to do it for them, or they need help doing it. From entomologist with the USDA Agricultural Research Service. “The female goes everybody’s problem. Farmers are following four steps in response to my experience, sanitation is a huge challenge because you’ve got to inside the berry, and then she lays eggs, and there are 10 females for every the infestation: field sanitation, insecticidal fungus, trapping, and coordinate the growers to do it together.” However, sanitation used male. The brothers will inseminate their sisters inside the berry, so when those worker education. continued on page 86 May | J u n e 2 0 13 85 Marching Forth | Battling the Coffee Berry Borer in Hawaii (continued) in combination with the other three steps— and was made available for sale throughout The fungus has no effect on the eventual spraying insecticidal fungus, trapping and Kona. Each acre where the beetle is observed flavor of the coffee. worker education—should make a difference requires 1–3 ounces of fungus mixed in 30- in the field, Vega says. 100 gallons of water, sprayed anywhere from problematic because the beetles spend twice a month to every 60 days, depending most of their lives inside of coffee on the extent of infestation. cherries, which the fungus does not Insecticidal Fungus An insecticidal fungus was also approved and Farmers are instructed to spray the Spraying for the insect is penetrate. If fungal spores come in recommended to Kona farmers for spraying ground around trees, as well as the crops contact with insects, the fungus will crops. This pesticide is certified organic themselves, to ensure a thorough treatment. multiply inside the insect and kill it. And like sanitation, producers must budget for extra time that workers must spend in the field, in addition to the cost of the spray itself, which is about $60 per quart. One quart will cover about one acre. Those spraying the fungus must wear personal protective equipment such as a face mask, protective eye wear, gloves, a long-sleeve shirt, pants and shoes as directed on the label. After spraying, there is also a recommended four-hour delay before re-entering the field. More research is still needed to track the effectiveness of the fungus on the coffee berry borer, Vega says. “In the lab, it works really well. The problem is, throughout the world, there are no studies that do a follow-up on the effectiveness in terms of costbenefit ratio. [After you spray] did you get higher yields, and what happened the next season? Did you get a higher mortality than in places where you didn’t spray?” Trapping Placing traps is not nearly as effective in controlling the beetle, but trapping helps producers identify problem areas of the farm, based on the traps that capture larger accumulations of beetles. The bait used in the traps is a methanol/ ethanol mix that attracts the beetle. Traps are also recommended around mills and processing areas, where the beetle could potentially migrate out of fruit. They are set away from the trees, so that they do not inadvertently attract new beetles to the trees. Traps cost $2 to $8 each, depending on the type and shipping cost, plus the cost of the attractant. New trapping protocols in Hawaii suggest the use of as few as five traps per acre, in addition to visual monitoring of coffee berry 86 roast borer activity in the field. Producers When Vega is in the field, he inspects for quickly get a handle on a percentage of should monitor the traps at a minimum the beetle by sampling in every other row, of two-week intervals, and traps should in every third tree. “We pick a branch in the be cleaned with soapy water every four center of the plant and then we count that to ensure that beetles are not moved from weeks. entire branch,” he explains. “If there are 100 one area to another when buying cherry berries, how many berries are infested?” or parchment, Steiman says. Inspection the most effective way of attracting the With four people counting in a 20-minute standards are at the farm’s discretion. insect, Vega says. Typically, pheromones time frame, those working in the field can The methanol/ethanol mixture is not infestation. There is no official inspection process continued on page 88 or plant attractants are used to draw insects to traps, but scientists have not yet determined chemicals or pheromones that will work specifically with the coffee berry borer. In the field, the traps collect a small fraction of the beetles that are infesting the plants. “There is one study that has estimated 11 million insects per hectare,” an area roughly equivalent to 2.5 acres, while only 2,000 insects per day were captured in traps, Vega says. “The traps psychologically make you feel good because you see some insects falling into your traps. In a lot of places, they get fed up with them because … you realize that it’s not making a big difference.” Worker Education Finally, worker education is recommended to ensure the eyes in the field are able to spot and better manage the problem. An educated worker will better spot trouble areas so they can be contained and sanitized. For farms like Greenwell, which buys cherry from other farms, even the bags themselves need to be properly organized so that they are returned to their original farm. When pickers go on break, they may be educated to cover or tie up their bags to prevent insects from leaving the harvested fruit. Some processors will cover the depulper with plastic that is coated with grease so that flying insects will get stuck when they land, Vega says. In some instances, it is possible to see the tail end of the beetle sticking out from a cherry. This visible clue is a farmer’s first opportunity to spot the infestation. The beetle is often spotted on the green cherry, but it will bore into red cherries as well. “There is a hole— in Spanish they call it ombligo, or belly button—in the lower part of the berry, and that’s the only place where the insect will go inside the berry,” Vega explains. May | J u n e 2 0 13 87 Marching Forth | Battling the Coffee Berry Borer in Hawaii (continued) Some large mills are inspecting 100 coffee cherries out of each bag to measure for coffee berry borer “hot spots” in certain areas of Kona. Others have stopped bringing in cherry from other farms to help reduce beetle infestation. Processors who are buying from farmers estimate that they are paying at least 25 cents more per pound for cherry just to account for coffee berry borer preventive efforts. Processors and farms can protect themselves from purchasing highly infested cherry and parchment by randomly sampling incoming product from every farmer and inspecting the sample for infestation. The sample would then be pulped and counted and paid for on the basis of a sliding scale. High-quality beans would receive the highest advertised price, while low-quality product would either be denied or would receive a low price. Anything in between would be priced based on the percent of infestation. Processors who pay on a sliding scale or refuse to purchase highly infested coffee promote pest management by rewarding farmers who practice the steps to help control the beetle and sell quality cherry to their processors. However, because some processors either must meet their contractual quotas or are not quality-minded, farmers are not encouraged to control the coffee berry borer on their farm because they can still receive high prices for even highly infested coffee, according to a source familiar with the situation in Hawaii. The Situation Now Throughout 2011 and 2012, farms across Kona have seen crop yields drop by up to 50 percent, with the average loss between 25 and 30 percent. Greenwell’s reported yield drop of 20 to 25 percent falls below the area’s average, likely due to the farm’s preventative steps and management of the problem. Due to the large drop in yield, some growers could not afford to stay in the coffee business. Despite the news, not all farmers are taking action and some are Traps attract the coffee berry borer and help farmers identify “hot spots.” photo by David Cook not even aware of the problem. One farmer on Hawaii’s Big Island, situated outside of Kona, had heard the news of infestation but did not believe that it affected his crops and was not taking preventative steps. Around the globe, the coffee berry borer has proved to be a nefarious foe for the coffee industry. According to a recently published scientific paper, the direct damage caused from lost berries and lower bean weight account for economic losses between $215 million and $358 million per year in Brazil alone, Vega says. Infestation on some level has been reported in nearly every coffee-producing region of the world, with the exception of Nepal and China, says Vega. However, he says, the lack of academic papers reporting the beetle’s presence in those countries could simply be due to a language barrier between scientists there and the rest of the coffee-producing world. In every country where the coffee berry borer has been reported, it still remains a threat. Most countries use the four preventative steps that are currently being employed in the Kona area. Some coffeeproducing countries have used biological control, Vega explains, a process where an insect can be used to kill another insect. In some A close-up of the coffee berry borer. | photo courtesy Chris Pooley, USDA 88 roast parts of Africa, there are insects called parasitoids, which will lay continued on page 90 May | J u n e 2 0 13 89 Marching Forth | Battling the Coffee Berry Borer in Hawaii (continued) their eggs inside the coffee berry borer and consume the beetle from within, killing it. Some of these insects have been introduced to other countries, but the results have not been encouraging, Vega says. “There is some mortality—it’s not very high—and sometimes after they are introduced, they die off. So they have to be re-introduced.” Vega and other scientists in his lab are working on developing a repellent to help farmers deal with the pest. He also sees promise in eliminating the bacterium that promotes the 10:1 female-to-male sex ratio, allowing a 90-percent reduction in the spread of the insect. However, he says, introducing a virus that would destroy the bacterium in the field would be incredibly difficult. The third harvest season has passed since the beetle arrived, and Kona coffee farmers are hopeful that within the next two seasons A close-up of a coffee cherry infested by the coffee berry borer. | photo by David Cook their coffee quality will continue to improve as farmers, agencies and scientists work together to control the beetle’s spread. According to a Jan. 27, 2013, article in West Hawaii Today, green coffee that was processed at Greenwell’s mill prior to the arrival of the coffee berry borer was graded at 22 percent extra fancy, 30 percent fancy, 24 percent No. 1, 13 percent prime, and 4 percent peaberry, with the rest graded at lower or off grades. During the 2012–13 season, none of the green was graded as extra fancy, fancy or No. 1; more than 75 percent of the beans were graded as prime. The damage is disheartening, but farmers understand that controlling the beetle must be a new step in their day-to-day practices. Steiman elaborates on the sentiment among farmers: “I’ve spoken with farmers who understand it is something to deal with, and they have had to add it to their management and business plans. They aren’t happy about it, of course, but whining about it doesn’t get anything done. Everyone here is unhappy and goes through depressed stages. So, morale is down, but life moves on.” Adoption of coffee berry borer control methods is improving in Kona. From a University of Hawaii College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources survey, at the end of the 2010–11 season, only 37 percent of survey participants said that they stripped their trees. At the end of the 2011–12 season, 60 percent of survey participants said that they stripped all of their trees, and 80 percent said that they stripped 75 percent of their trees. Removing all red, green and raisin cherry from trees at the end of harvest could reduce infestation in the coming season by up to 80 percent, according to the Kona Coffee Farmers Association. Though Kona and Ka’u coffee growers continue to battle the coffee berry borer, “State, county, and federal agencies as well as industry associations, leaders, growers, and agricultural Farmers in Hawaii have access to a wealth of information about the pest, including this DVD. | photo by David Cook 90 roast companies have promoted an integrated pest management (IPM) continued on page 92 May | J u n e 2 0 13 91 Marching Forth (continued) approach to controlling CBB in Hawaii,” says Andrea Kawabata, who works with coffee farmers as part of her position as a University of Hawaii College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources extension agent. “For those who followed these IPM methods closely, 2012 provided them with a bumper crop and record sales. Gaining control of this beetle requires cooperation of the entire industry. In 2013, we will continue to encourage and work with growers. “Coffee is one of Hawaii’s remaining internationally competitive crops,” she adds. “Therefore, we need everyone’s cooperation to keep this industry viable.” Currently, farmers are dealing with lower yields and lower income in various ways, Steiman says. “For cherry farmers, most of them are just taking the hit in profit. Estate farmers have it a bit differently. If they have coffee, then they’re stoked right now because prices are incredibly high. Some farmers have decided that this kind of effort or financial model isn’t what they signed up for. They’ve packed their bags and sold their farm.” In the meantime, coffee enthusiasts are going without a regular supply of Kona’s unique coffee. It seems that wherever roasters travel around the world, farmers are battling their own origin-specific challenges—too much rain, not enough rain, coffee stolen at gunpoint, insect infestation and more. Coffee growing isn’t for the faint of heart. In Hawaii, the challenge is in the right hands: the hands of those who live with and care for the trees that bear this amazing fruit. Marc Wortman is a Portland, Ore.-based coffee lover who edits www.makegoodcoffee.com, a site dedicated to helping people make better coffee at home. E-mail him at [email protected]. David Cook is the owner of Fire Roasted Coffee Company in London, Ontario, Canada. r e s ou rc e s For more information on the coffee berry borer, visit: University of Hawaii at Manoa, College of Tropical Agriculture and Human Resources provides information on Hawaii and the coffee berry borer: www.ctahr.hawaii.edu/site/CBB.aspx Fernando Vega’s publications, including those on the berry borer, are available at www.ars.usda.gov/pandp/docs.htm?docid=19432 92 roast May | J u n e 2 0 13 93