Known to many, visited by few, the island of Saint Barth
Transcription
Known to many, visited by few, the island of Saint Barth
Luxe St. Barths Luxe St. Barths Saint Barthelemy Known to many, visited by few, the island of Saint Barth welcomes the wealthy to revel in life’s pleasures – as long as they leave their pretensions at home WORDS: Robert La Bua 64 May 2012 dotwnews.com dotwnews.com May 2012 65 Barths Luxe Luxe St. St.Barts Barths Barts St. Barths Luxe 11 22 33 44 Sit back, take your top off and enjoy our summer deal. 1.1.The TheView ViewOne OneofofIciIcietetLa’s La’smagnificent magnificentmanaged managedproperties properties2.2.Tropical Tropicalretreat retreatSublime Sublimeviews viewsfrom fromtrendy trendyHotel HotelChristopher Christopher 3.3.Designer Designerdining diningEnjoy Enjoythe theview viewfrom fromLeLeGaïac Gaïac4.4.Caribbean Caribbeancolours coloursQuaint Quainthouses housesininthe thecapital capitalGustavia Gustavia “What “Whatthe thelocals localshave havein incommon commonisisaalove loveof oflife life––an anappreciation appreciationfor forthe the bonhomie bonhomieof ofaaday dayat atthe thebeach beachwith withfriends, friends,followed followedby byan anevening eveningof of laughter laughterwith withmore morefriends” friends” It’s not for your parents, or kids, or anyone who wants a quiet summer! If there’s one thing hotter than the weather this summer, it’s the summer deal at Media One! There’s so much to do that the tricky part is figuring out where to start! T he heCollectivité Collectivitéterritoriale territorialede deSaintSaintBarthelémy Barthelémyhas hasseveral severalmonickers monickers ––StStBart, Bart,StStBart’s, Bart’s,Saint-Barth Saint-Barth ––used usedinstead insteadofofitsitsformal formalname, name, which whichisisbarely barelyused usedininofficialdom, officialdom,and andnever never ininconversation. conversation.The TheFrench Frenchabbreviation, abbreviation, pronounced pronouncedsomething somethinglike like‘San ‘SanBart’ Bart’, ,isisthe theone one the thelocals localsuse, use,and andwhen whenititcomes comestotothe theFrench, French,itit isisbest besttotofollow followthe thelocal localexample. example.On OnSaint-Barth, Saint-Barth, the thelast lastthing thingyou youwant wanttotobe beisisan anoutsider. outsider. Despite Despiteaaglamorous glamorousreputation reputationperpetuated perpetuated by bythe theinternational internationalmedia, media,Saint-Barth Saint-Barthisisan an unfussy unfussyplace, place,aaplace placefor forpeople peoplerather ratherthan than objects: objects:rich richpeople, people,talented talentedpeople, people,people people with withinteresting interestingcareers, careers,people peoplewith withpower power and andinfluence. influence.Arrogance Arrogancefinds findsno noshelter shelter here hereexcept exceptduring duringaatwo-week two-weekreprieve reprieveover over Christmas Christmasand andNew NewYears, Years,when whennervous nervous poseurs poseursinundate inundatethe theisland islandtotocomplain complainabout about too toomuch muchcinnamon cinnamoninintheir theircappuccinos. cappuccinos. May2012 2012 dotwnews.com dotwnews.com 66 66 May The Thefact factthat thatthe thecinnamon cinnamoncomes comesnot notfrom from aasmall smallvial vialoff offaasupermarket supermarketshelf shelfbut butrather rather from fromaatree treeininthe thegarden gardenisislost loston onthem. them. Those ThoseParisian Parisianpoliticians politiciansand andNew NewYork York bankers bankerspersonify personifythe theantithesis antithesisofofSaint-Barth’s Saint-Barth’s blithe blithespirits, spirits,some someofofwhom whomconsider consideraatrip triptoto Saint SaintMartin Martinaamajor majorexcursion, excursion,others otherswho who come comeand andgo goacross acrossthe theworld worldwith witheasy easyalacrity. alacrity. What Whatthe thelocals localshave haveinincommon commonisisaalove loveofoflife life ––an anappreciation appreciationfor forthe thebonhomie bonhomieofofaaday dayatat the thebeach beachwith withfriends, friends,followed followedby byan anevening evening ofoflaughter laughterwith withmore morefriends; friends;between betweenthe the two twocould couldbe bean anhaute hautecuisine cuisinedinner dinneratatchic chicLe Le Gaïac, Gaïac,ororaahamburger hamburgeratatraucous raucousLe LeSelect Select––itit doesn’t doesn’tmatter mattermuch muchwhich. which. On OnSaint-Barth, Saint-Barth,showing showingoff offisisaafaux fauxpas. pas. Contrary Contrarytotopopular popularbelief, belief,not noteveryone everyoneisis gratuitously gratuitouslywealthy, wealthy,and andtotoplay playthe thegame gameofof ‘I’m ‘I’mricher richerthan thanyou’ you’ininaaplace placewhere wherepeople people come cometotoget getaway awayfrom fromthat thatkind kindofofoneone- upmanship upmanshipatathome homeisisseen seenasasgauche gaucheand and unnecessary. unnecessary.Nevertheless, Nevertheless,the theisland islandabounds abounds ininremarkable remarkablepeople peoplefashionably fashionablydressed dressedinin flowing flowingwhite whiteand andbeige beigelinens linenssuitable suitabletotothe the climate, climate,the theexception exceptionbeing beingfashion fashionmodels, models, who whoare arecompelled compelledtotosport sportsomething somethingmore more provocative, provocative,ininline linewith withtheir theirprofession. profession. Never Nevermind mindthat thatthe thelinens linensare arefrom fromComme Comme des desGarçons Garçons––on onaaFrench Frenchisland, island,one’s one’sclothes clothes are areexpected expectedtotobe beimpeccable impeccableregardless regardlessofof their theirinformality. informality. Saint-Barth’s Saint-Barth’smain mainattraction attractionisisits itsabsence absence ofofattractions. attractions.Beyond Beyondpristine pristinebeaches beachesand and sublime sublimeswimming swimmingpools, pools,the theboutiques boutiquesinin Gustavia Gustaviaoffer offeraashopping shoppingrespite respitefrom fromthe the island’s island’srelentlessly relentlesslybeautiful beautifullandscapes. landscapes. Among Amongthe theboutiques boutiquesofofCartier Cartierand andHermès Hermèsare are the theateliers ateliersofoftalented talenteddesigners designerslike likeÉlisa ÉlisaBally, Bally, whose whosevivacious vivaciouspassion passionfor forinteriors interiorsproduces produces impressively impressivelyoriginal originalwork. work. Get on the fast track with an Italian Job-style city tour, indulge in some serious retail therapy at a world-class mall, soak in the vibrant in-house discounts or hang out by the sea with an umbrella and ice box thrown in for good measure. Get in touch directly with Media One or your travel agent and you can have a lot more fun in the sun! Media One Hotel FZ LLC. PO Box 121818, Dubai Media City, Dubai, United Arab Emirates T +971 4 427 1000 F +971 4 427 1001 E [email protected] W www.mediaonehotel.com dotwnews.com May 2012 67 Luxe St. Barths St. Barths Luxe “With no heavy industry, Saint-Barth’s entire economy depends on tourism; visitors come — and come back — more for what the island does not have than for what it does” 68 May 2012 dotwnews.com dotwnews.com May 2012 69 Luxe Luxe St. St.Barths Barths Sectiony title St. Barths Luxe Private Privatepanorama panorama(above) (above) Views Viewsacross acrossthe theislands islandsofof Bonhomme Bonhommeand andSaint SaintMartin Martin from fromVilla VillaArte Arte Once Onceininaalifetime lifetime(left) (left) Gustavia GustaviaHarbour Harbourasasseen seen from fromthe theRoyal RoyalSuite Suiteofof Hotel HotelCarl CarlGustaf Gustaf Those Thosewho whobalance balancelanguid languiddays dayswith withsocial social evenings eveningscan canthank thankimpresario impresarioCarole CaroleGruson, Gruson, the thedoyenne doyenneofofSaint-Barth Saint-Barthnights, nights,for foran anarray array ofofclubs clubsdotting dottingthe theisland. island.One Oneofofthe themost most popular popularofofCarole’s Carole’sestablishments establishmentsisisLe LeTi, Ti,aa taverne tavernede deluxe luxewhere whereThursday Thursdaynight’s night’scabaret cabaret isisnot nottotobe bemissed. missed. Without Withoutaadoubt, doubt,Saint-Barth’s Saint-Barth’sempress empress dowager dowagerisisone oneJeanne JeanneAudy-Rowland. Audy-Rowland. Unassumingly Unassuminglycharismatic, charismatic,Madame MadameAudyAudyRowland Rowlandisisbest bestknown knownasasthe theowner ownerofofLa La Maison MaisonNouréev, Nouréev,the theformer formerhome homeofofballet ballet legend legendRudolf RudolfNureyev, Nureyev,who whocame cametotoSaintSaintBarth Barthtotovisit visitMikhail MikhailBaryshnikov Baryshnikovand and promptly promptlyfell fellininlove lovewith withthe theisland. island. The The famously famouslymercurial mercurialNureyev Nureyevpurchased purchasedaahome home on onSaint-Barth’s Saint-Barth’swild wildsoutheast southeastcoast coastand andbuilt built aadeck deckon onwhich whichtotopractice practicehis hisdance dancemoves moves only onlymetres metresabove abovethe thecrashing crashingwaves. waves. Other Other than thanthe theaddition additionofofaafew fewpersonal personalitems, items,Mme Mme Audy-Rowland Audy-Rowlandhas haschanged changedlittle littleininthe thehouse house since sinceshe shepurchased purchasedititfrom fromthe theNureyev Nureyevestate estate after afterthe thedancer’s dancer’sdeath deathinin1993. 1993.Like Likeits itsformer former owner, owner,and andthe thecurrent currentone, one,the thehouse houseitself itselfhas has aapresence presencelarger largerthan thanlife. life. May2012 2012 dotwnews.com dotwnews.com 70 70 May Despite Despiteits itspride prideofofplace placeasasthe thesole soleproperty property on onaasmall smallpromontory promontoryjutting juttinginto intothe thesea, sea, few fewpeople peopleare areaccorded accordedthe theprivilege privilegeofofaavisit visit inside, inside,where wheremeaningful meaningfulmementos mementosstand standinin places placesthey theyhave haveoccupied occupiedfor fordecades. decades. Now Now advancing advancingininyears, years,the thelady ladyofofthe thehouse househas has put putLa LaMaison MaisonNouréev Nouréevon onthe themarket marketbut, but,true true totoher hernature, nature,ititwill willtake takemore morethan thanmoney moneytoto achieve achieveaasale. sale. Mme MmeAudy-Rowland Audy-Rowlandexpects expectsthe the next nextowner ownertototake takeover overher herrole roleasascustodian custodian way, way,isisnot notan anextravagant extravagantfigure figureon onan anisland island where whereChristmas/New Christmas/NewYear Yearvisitors visitorsclamour clamourtoto pay pay$200,000 $200,000per perweek weektotorent rentthe thebest bestvillas. villas. Though Thoughprivate privatevillas villasare arethe thene neplus plusultra ultra ofofisland islandaccommodation, accommodation,most mostfirst-timers first-timers start startoff offasasguests guestsatatSaint-Barth’s Saint-Barth’sfine finehotels hotels before beforemoving movingon ontotovilla villaaccommodation accommodation on onsubsequent subsequentvisits. visits.Each Eachhotel hotelhas hasits itsown own character, character,sosoititisisimportant importanttotochoose choosethe theone one most mostsuited suitedtotoholiday holidayexpectations. expectations. “Despite “Despite aa glamorous glamorous reputation reputation perpetuated perpetuated by by the the international international media, media, Saint-Barth Saint-Barth isis an an unfussy unfussy place” place” ofofLa LaMaison MaisonNouréev; Nouréev;those thosewith withteardown teardown intentions intentionsininmind mindwill willfind findtheir theirmoney money useless. useless. Mme MmeAudy-Rowland Audy-Rowlandhas hasalready already refused refusedan anextremely extremelygenerous generousoffer offerfrom fromaa world-famous world-famousbillionaire billionairewhom whomshe shedeemed deemed unworthy unworthyofofthe thehome, home,even evenwhen whenbearing bearing an anoffer offermore morethan thantwice twicethe theEUR28 EUR28million million (US$38 (US$38million) million)asking askingprice price––which, which,by bythe the Those Thoselooking lookingfor forstylish stylishaccommodation accommodationand and aahip hipcrowd crowdshould shouldhead headfor forChristopher Christopheron on Pointe PointeMilou, Milou,where wherethe theimpossibly impossiblydebonair debonair Christian ChristianLanglade Langladehas hastransformed transformedaatired tired property propertyinto intothe theisland’s island’strendiest trendiesthotel. hotel. Shoppers Shopperswill willfind findthe theregal regalHotel HotelCarl Carl Gustaf’s Gustaf’slocation locationininteensy teensyGustavia, Gustavia,SaintSaintBarth’s Barth’scapital capitaland andhome homeofofthe theisland’s island’sSwedish Swedish 100 May 2012 dotwnews.com dotwnews.com May 2012 71 Luxe St. Barths Le Toiny heritage, convenient for forays from its lofty location above the harbour down into town for a bit of retail therapy before indulging in physical and mental therapy in the hotel’s outstanding spa, equipped with an essential oil shower. To enjoy the villa experience with hotel services in a less populated area, the peerless Le Toiny offers seclusion and privacy on the wild coast. Each of the 15 villas has its own pool, next to which breakfast magically appears each morning thanks to the hotel’s exceptionally conscientious staff, led by general managers Dagmar and Guy Lombard. Le Toiny, a member of Relais & Châteaux, is home to the wonderful Le Gaïac, the best of Saint-Barth’s many fine restaurants, where local produce and imported delicacies are given equally outstanding attention in the kitchen before being presented in a dining room with sweeping views across a dozen shades of blue sea and sky. When it comes to villa rentals, Ici Et Là manages a portfolio of magnificent homes straight off the pages of the world’s architecture and design magazines. Among the most impressive are Villa Arte and The View, both of which offer expansive vistas over the Caribbean Sea while providing complete privacy in total luxury, thereby satisfying the trio of demands most often put forth by the island’s visitors. It is possible to have personal attention and outstanding service even when staying in a private villa thanks to Vincent Chevalier and James Daltrey, owners of Premium IV, an island-wide concierge service that provides every necessity for the perfect holiday. Looking more like a client of his own services than an entrepreneurial go-getter, Vincent is the man for visitors to know on Saint-Barth, 72 May 2012 dotwnews.com the man who makes things happen with a single phone call. Premium IV works closely with Ici Et Là in creating the ultimate SaintBarth villa experiences. Property is something of a lightning rod on the island. As in so many other beautiful places around the world, there are preservationists who seek to maintain the island’s natural integrity, and developers who seek profit above all else. Descendants of the original French families to settle on Saint-Barth still own vast tracts of land now worth many millions of dollars; long gone are the days when struggling peasants traded plots of land for a decent meal. Waterfront parcels are highly sought after by international hotel groups looking for an in for an inn – so far, in vain. Unusually in the Caribbean, Saint-Barth’s hotels are all independently owned; none belongs to a chain. One of the staunchest defenders of the land is Hélène Bernier, whose family was among the first to establish a community on the island. Community spirit is vitally important to Bernier; in addition to her work as owner of Easy Time, an eco-tour company that provides personalised tours of Saint-Barth’s many natural attractions, she is also the leading voice in the fight to keep environmental abuse off the island. With no heavy industry, Saint-Barth’s entire economy depends on tourism; visitors come – and come back – more for what the island does not have than for what it does. If peace and quiet are sacrificed in favour of more hotel rooms and more visitors, Saint-Barth will become just another soulless Caribbean island with nothing to differentiate it from those already saturated by too much concrete and too many people. Hotel le Toiny +590 590 27 88 88 www.letoiny.com Christopher St. Barth +590 590 27 63 63 www.hotelchristopher.com Hotel Carl Gustav www.hotelcarlgustaf.com Ici&La +590 590 27 78 78 www.icietlavillas.com Maison Noureev +1 617 349 0090 www.noureev.com Premium IV +590 690 88 22 12 www.premiumiv.com Oh, the worries of modern life. Never mind, it’s time for dinner. Madame AudyRowland, always a luminous figure, is at her radiant best, dressed immaculately from head to toe in finely tailored white linen. That her sartorial splendour was created from old bed sheets adds to the mischievous delight she takes in wearing them. On SaintBarth, the fabric of life is sewn together with threads of good fun and good fortune. Long may they last.n