Catalogue 2011

Japanese Chisels:Layout 1
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Japa nd Saws
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T
he most distinct feature of a Japanese saw is that the
teeth point towards the handle. When in use, the cutting
action is on the draw-stroke. The saw cuts as the user pulls,
totally opposite to a traditional western saw. It is doubtful
there was ever a decision made as to which way the saw
should work. It may well be that it evolved naturally through
the working practices of the Japanese carpenter. A favourite
theory being, many were journeyman carpenters, needing to
travel as lightly as possible. As a bench would be too heavy to
carry, working on the floor became the norm. In this position,
it is impossible to put any force into sawing on the push
stroke. Pulling however is entirely the opposite and
tremendously efficient. After years of evolution, we can see
the fruits of this working practice. This is only one theory,
there are many more.
When a Japanese saw is working, the blade is in tension rather than
compression as is the case with a Western saw. In consequence, the blade of
a Japanese saw can be far thinner and be of much harder steel. A Western
saw is after all a compromise; it needs to be thicker and tempered in order
to resist the pushing force when cutting. This makes it heavier and it will
require much more frequent sharpening, because the steel is softer. The
Japanese saw is therefore naturally a great deal lighter in weight and will
stay sharp much longer.
The harder steel allowed the geometry of the saw teeth to evolve differently.
This is most noticeable on the crosscut saws where the teeth are long and
fine. Closer inspection reveals not one but up to three cutting edges on each
tooth. The teeth literally slice through the wood like a series of super sharp
knives leaving the smoothest of cut surfaces, almost planed, rather than
sawn. Rip cutting teeth look very similar to Western teeth, the triangular
chisel type. Even so, on the better quality Japanese saws the teeth are
smaller, nearer the handle allowing for a series of short strokes to start the
cut, before bringing the full length of the saw to bear on the work piece.
Being so thin, means removing far less material from the actual cut, on
average the kerf is at most only a third of a similar Western saw. This
means, the worker only expends a third of the energy to achieve the same
result and will finish the job much quicker.
Kumagoro Universal
Kataba Saw
Crosscut
Hassunme Saw
Japanese saws or Nokogiri fall into three basic styles. The single edged
backless saws referred to as a Kataba, the double-edged or Ryoba and the
single edged with a stiffening back or spine known as a Dozuki. There are
slight variations within each category for more specialist functions.
The Kataba saws, having no backs are ideal for deeper cuts. These are the
equivalents of western rip and panel saws. Examples in the Axminster
catalogue are the Hassunme rip and crosscut saws, both of which feature
replaceable blades. They remain sharp for a considerable amount of time,
but once dull it is simplicity itself to change the blade. The handles of both
saws have identical fittings so it is possible to purchase one saw and a
replacement blade of the other type, just change from one to the other as
and when required. A further benefit, removing the handle means the saw
will fit neatly into a toolbox. The Kugihiki or flush cutting saw has an
exceptionally thin and flexible blade. The teeth have no set; it is perfect for
cutting the protruding ends of through tenons or dowels without damage to
the surrounding area. When using this saw, it helps if you gently rest the
fingers of your free hand on the back of the blade just behind the cut. This
gives much greater control.
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JapanensdeSaws
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Doutsuki-Me Saw
Ikedame Saw
The most
visually striking of all
Japanese saws is the
double-edged Ryoba style.
Surprisingly, it is a recent addition to
the Japanese woodworker’s toolbox,
originating just over 100 years ago or so. In
reality, it is a crosscut and a rip cut Kataba back to
back on a single handle. Instead of carrying two saws
the woodworker only requires one dual purpose saw, a
little less weight to carry around and a good deal lighter on
the pocket. The Ryoba must be the ultimate tenon saw, one
edge for ripping down the cheeks and the other to cleanly
crosscut the shoulders. The Ryoba saw from Axminster features a
replaceable blade. These saws are for the professional woodworker
and are not to be confused with cheaper alternatives. The maker
scrapes the blades so they are thinner in the centre in order to
prevent them binding in a deep cut. Careful checks on each blade ensure its
flatness before it leaves his factory. The quality is comparable with the best
Western saws. One other double-edged saw worth a mention is the Azebiki.
Looking rather like a long handled fish slice, it too has one side with teeth
cut for ripping and the other for crosscutting. The edges are only 100mm
long with a slight curve. Its purpose is to enable the user to begin a cut in
the centre of a panel, or start cuts for slots or sliding dovetails. Using it
against a straight edge of some sort, as a guide is common practice.
popular saw, the Ikedame. Its name refers not so much to the saw but rather
to the particular pattern of the teeth. Specifically designed for cutting small
intricate joints down the grain, the dovetail comes immediately to mind. This
is where the Ikedame has found endless friends. Another Dozuki is the Ice
Bear brand Kumagoro saw, with very fine teeth at 25 tpi. With a 190mm long
blade, it falls between the two previous saws and will prove a useful tool for
cutting all manner of fine joints.
To get the most from a Japanese saw the main thing, is to relax and let the
saw do all the work. The only thing for the woodworker to do is to provide
the backward and forwards motion. Either pushing or trying to force the saw
to cut can result in one of two things, the blade will buckle or a tooth may
snap off. Don’t worry if the odd tooth gets broken, which can happen in very
hard woods, this will not affect the saw’s performance. It matters not
whether you hold the handle near the blade or at the far end, whichever
feels most comfortable is correct, a good quality Japanese saw will stay on
line.
To sum up, compared to its Western counterpart the Japanese saw is lighter
in weight and thinner thus requiring far less effort on the user’s part. The
unique tooth form results in much faster cutting. It is harder so stays sharp
for a very long time and being so sharp results in cleaner, more accurate
cuts.
Azebiki Saw
Ryoba Saw
Within the Dozuki saws is the Dozuki-Me. This has a blade thickness of a
mere 0.3mm. Such a thin blade needs a steel spine to give it rigidity. In
a similar way to a western tenon saw, the weight of the back provides the
necessary downward pressure to ensure a smooth cutting action. This
saw also features a replaceable blade (at 25 tpi it is not economical
proposition to sharpen even if a file were obtainable). For deeper cuts, a
wider blade is available. Also in this group is what has proved to be a hugely