Just the ticket! - Lakeland Walker

SIX OF THE BEST
Just the
ticket!
Photo courtesy StageCoach
Forget the car – Cumbria’s transport network offers you
the freedom to walk without the limitations of returning
to that infernal combustion engine! Vivienne Crow suggests six
cracking linear walks that enable you to relax and
enjoy the view as buses and trains bear you
between end-points
1. ST BEES to
WHITEHAVEN
The CumbRian CoaSt Line runs from
Carlisle in the north of the county to Barrowin-Furness in the south. From the moment it
encounters the Irish Sea at Maryport, it hugs
the coast, providing travellers with dramatic,
often uninterrupted views out across the
vast, blue emptiness.
St Bees Head is the highest and most
westerly point on Cumbria’s long coastline.
With red sandstone cliffs reaching a height of
almost 330ft (100m), seabirds riding the
thermals and views across to the Isle of Man
and Dumfries and Galloway, the section
between the colourful village of St Bees and
the harbour town of Whitehaven is by far the
best stretch of coastal walking in Cumbria.
Route
Turn left out of St Bees Station and
immediately left again, along Station Road. At
the T-junction, go left once more then make
your way to the sea wall, along which you turn
right. After crossing Rottington Beck, the clifftop walk begins. The first few miles, partly
following the route of Wainwright’s Coast-to-
Coast, are straightforward: keep the sea on
your left and you can’t go far wrong. The route
passes the secluded cove of Fleswick Bay, St
Bees lighthouse and several RSPB platforms
providing glimpses of ledges packed with
seabirds, including puffins and black
guillemots. About 4.5 miles (7km) after
leaving St Bees, the route passes to the left of
a fenced area, the site of Whitehaven’s former
chemical works. Turn left soon after this to
regain the cliff path. After descending past the
Wellington Pit chimney, known as the
GRID REF START: NY336089/FINISH: NY364061
Candlestick, bear right and follow the harbour
side. On reaching Tesco’s access road, turn
right. Go left at the main road and left again to
reach Whitehaven Station.
other options
Alight at Ravenglass and wander round one of
Cumbria’s prettiest seaside villages before
heading up on to Muncaster Fell. Silecroft
Station is another good jumping-off point for
Black Combe in the remote southwest corner
of the Lake District.
2. FAIRFIELD &
HERON PIKE
Bus route 555, from Lancaster to Keswick,
links many of the Lake District’s main towns
and villages, including Kendal, Windermere,
Ambleside and Grasmere. Following the A591
through the heart of the National Park, it
passes through spectacular mountain scenery.
Fabulous Fairfield (2,864ft/873m) is usually
tackled as part of its eponymous horseshoe.
This linear walk, howver, approaches it via
Tongue Gill and Grisedale Hause before
striding out along the horseshoe’s superb
western ridge. It takes in Great Rigg
(2,513ft/766m) and Heron Pike (2,009ft/612m)
before descending to Rydal.
START
Route
FINISH
2
From the Travellers Rest inn, walk south along
the A591, then go left along a private
driveway. The route heads right, beside Stone
Arthur Cottage. With little on the ground to
guide you other than sporadic waymarkers,
walk steadily uphill across fields and rough
ground. Eventually, after a kissing-gate in the
top wall, things get easier as you head north
beside the wall. After climbing beside Tongue
Gill, ford the beck just below a waterfall and
continue uphill. At Grisedale Hause, turn right
to begin the steep climb to Fairfield. With so
Red sandstone cliffs and an
empty beach at Fleswick bay
FINISH
© Crown Copyright 2015 Ordnance Survey Media 003/15
ST BEES to
WHITEHAVEN
GRADE:
DISTANCE: 7.5 miles/12.1km
CLIMB: 1385ft/422m
START: St Bees Railway Station
(GR: NX970119)
FINISH: Whitehaven Railway
Station (GR: NX974187)
MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:40,000 Coast to
Coast West (partial); Ordnance Survey
1:25,000 Explorer 303, Whitehaven &
Workington
START
FAIRFIELD and
HERON PIKE
GRADE:
DISTANCE: 6.6 miles/10.6km
CLIMB: 2,820ft/860m
START: Travellers Rest inn, near Grasmere
(GR: NY336089)
FINISH: Rydal (GR: NY364061)
MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:25,000
Superwalker Lakeland Central; Harvey’s
1:40,000 Lake District British Mountain
Map; OS 1:25,000 Explorer OL7, The
English Lakes, South-eastern area
many cairns and shelters dotted about the
summit, it’s easy to lose your bearings: take the
cairned route south-southwest. A wonderful
ridge walk now takes in Great Rigg and Heron
Pike. The path drops steeply from the latter,
joining a track near buildings at Rydal. This
quickly swings right, heading downhill. Follow
it to its junction with the A591 to catch the 555
bus.
other options
Use the 555 to explore sections of the 7.5-mile
(12km) ridge leading from Clough Head across
Helvellyn to Dollywaggon Pike. For an easier
day out, stay low and wander through the
Thirlmere forests or beside the tiny lakes of
Grasmere and Rydal Water.
a waterfall on the upper section of tongue Gill
3
GDALE
N
A
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T
A
3. GRE
The 516 bus is better known as the Langdale
Rambler. Starting in Ambleside, it runs
through Elterwater and Chapel Stile, almost to
the very head of Great Langdale, terminating
at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. Extreme neckcraning is an inevitable consequence of riding
this bus.
This is the quintessential Lakeland valley
walk. Starting from Skelwith Bridge, with the
iconic Langdale Pikes dominating the scene
much of the time, it makes its way up into
spectacular Great Langdale, mostly using a
network of good riverside tracks and paths.
Highlights include a waterfall, a lake, cosy
GRID REF START: NY334033/FINISH: NY295064
FINISH
START
Lingmoor Fell seen from
the shores of elter Water
4. DERWENTWATER
SHORE
Route 78, sometimes called the Borrowdale
Rambler, is another bus that does “what it says
on the tin”. Starting in Keswick, it follows the
valley road south, along the eastern shores of
Derwentwater, past Grange, through
Rosthwaite and on to Seatoller at the foot of
Honister Pass.
With wooded crags to the east and
spectacular views across the lake to Skiddaw
as well as the North Western Fells, this walk
along Derwentwater’s eastern shore is truly
sublime on a calm, sunny day. In and out of the
trees, sometimes on shingle beaches, it makes
its steady way south.
Skiddaw seen from the
eastern shores of
Derwentwater
4
Route
From the theatre, make for the lake. Walk south
along the shore path – out to and around
Friar’s Crag. Keep the lake on your right, then
enter the woods. Go right at a rough lane, later
returning to the shore. Eventually, crags
prevent walkers from continuing along the
water’s edge. Climb to the roadside path and
continue in the same direction. Except during
floods, the lakeshore can be accessed again via
a gap in the wall opposite the junction with
the Watendlath road. Reaching the Kettlewell
car park, cross the road to pick up a woodland
path. Follow it round the back of the Lodore
Falls Hotel. It crosses Watendlath Beck and
emerges in the hotel’s rear car park. Turn left
along the road. After about 220 yards (200m),
go through the gate on the right and follow
the track over the River Derwent and across
boardwalk. About 440 yards (400m) after
crossing the river, swing left – away from the
lake – to a gate. Beyond this, a path leads to
the Manesty road. Turn left and follow it into
Grange. The 78 bus can be caught after
recrossing the River Derwent, at the junction
with the Borrowdale road.
villages, a generous helping of pubs and, of
course, a magnificent setting.
Route
From the road bridge in Skelwith Bridge, take
the riverside path upstream, along the north
bank. It passes Chesters by the River café,
Skelwith Force and Elter Water before
reaching the village of Elterwater. Go left at
the road there, then immediate right. Follow
the lane for about 380 yards (350m) then step
off to the right, on a signposted path through
trees. After crossing Great Langdale Beck, turn
left along the main valley road. Take the stony
path on the left about 90 yards (80m) after the
Wainwrights’ Inn. After crossing a humpback
bridge over Great Langdale Beck, continue
upstream and recross via the next bridge.
Follow the track to the road, turn left and, in
about 100 yards (90m), left again. This rough
track ends at the National Park car park close
to the New Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. The bus
stops nearby.
GREAT LANGDALE
GRADE:
DISTANCE: 4.3 miles/6.9km
CLIMB: 575ft/175m
START: Skelwith Bridge (GR: NY334033)
FINISH: New Dungeon Ghyll
other options
Extend the walk by continuing beyond the
New Dungeon Ghyll along the base of the fells
for 0.7 miles (just over 1km) to reach the Old
Dungeon Ghyll. Better still, climb Lingmoor
Fell from Elterwater, then squeeze through Fat
Man’s Agony on Side Pike.
beside the River brathay near
Skelwith bridge
Hotel (GR: NY295064)
MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:25,000
Superwalker Lakeland Central; Harvey’s
1:40,000 Lake District British Mountain
Map; OS 1:25,000 Explorers OL6, The
English Lakes, South-western area, and
OL7, South-eastern area
GRID REF START: NY264228/
FINISH: NY254174
other options
Continue beyond Grange, in and out of
gorgeous woodland beside the River Derwent,
to Rosthwaite or even as far as Seatoller. A
higher route, but still parallel with
Derwentwater’s eastern shore, might take in
Walla Crag, Ashness Bridge and Watendlath,
before dropping to Rosthwaite.
START
DERWENTWATER
SHORE
GRADE:
DISTANCE: 4.8 miles/7.7km
CLIMB: 370ft/113m
START: Theatre by the Lake,
Keswick (GR: NY264228)
FINISH: road bridge over River Derwent
at Grange-in-Borrowdale (GR: NY254174)
MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:25,000
Superwalker Lakeland central; Harvey’s
1:40,000 Lake District British Mountain
Map; OS 1:25,000 Explorer OL4, The
English Lakes, North-western area
FINISH
5
5. ULLSWATER, AIRA
& GOWBARROW
Bus service 508 generally runs from Penrith
to Patterdale via Pooley Bridge, the
Ullswater shore road and Glenridding. On
summer weekends and school holidays, it
continues to Windermere, winding its way
up to the Kirkstone Pass and through
Troutbeck along the way.
A new National Trust-built trail has
created an off-road route from Glenridding
to Aira Force. Combined with lakeshore
paths, it provides a great way to reach the
waterfall. Having enjoyed the Aira gorge,
our walk then continues on to Gowbarrow
– a lowly fell with some mighty views.
Follow the path around the eastern and
southern sides of the fell, pausing to enjoy the
surprise view above Yew Crag. Dropping back
into the Aira gorge, head downstream and out
through the car park to catch the 508 bus at
the junction of the A5091 with the A592.
other options
Follow woodland trails and the Ullswater shore
path southwest from Pooley Bridge to
Watermillock. For an excellent ridge walk in
summer, climb Hartsop Dodd from near
Brothers Water. Continue along St Raven’s
Edge, down Broad End and over Wansfell to
finish in Troutbeck.
Route
aira Force
Pick up the lakeshore path through the
woods just north of Glenridding, briefly
joining the road at Stybarrow Crag. The
new path, on the landward side of the
road, is joined just before Glencoyne and
leads all the way to the junction of the
A5091 with the A592. You could return to
Glenridding on the bus from here, but
the walk has barely started… Enter the
Aira Force car park and head up either
side of the tremendous gorge. You’ll
eventually need to cross to the east
bank – via one of the many bridges.
Soon after leaving the wooded gorge,
head northeast to climb to the trig pillar
on Gowbarrow Fell (1,578ft/481m).
ULLSWATER, AIRA
& GOWBARROW
GRADE:
DISTANCE: 6.1 miles/9.8km
CLIMB: 1560ft/476m
START: Glenridding (GR: NY386171)
FINISH: Junction of the A5091 with the
A592 (GR: NY399199)
MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:25,000
Superwalkers Lakeland Central and
Lakeland East; Harvey’s 1:40,000 Lake
District British Mountain Map; OS 1:25,000
Explorer OL5, The English Lakes, Northeastern area
6. KIRKBY STEPHEN:
RIVER & RAILWAY
What can I say about the Settle-Carlisle
Railway that hasn’t already been said?
Arguably the most scenic railway journey in
England, it passes through some wonderfully
varied and often impressive countryside,
including the Yorkshire Dales, Mallerstang and
the Eden Valley.
A circular route on riverside paths and a
disused railway allows walkers to take in some
KIRKBY STEPHEN:
RIVER & RAILWAY
GRADE:
DISTANCE: 5.4 miles/8.7km
CLIMB: 720ft/219.5m
START/FINISH: Kirkby Stephen Railway
Station (GR: NY762066)
MAPS: Harvey Maps 1:40,000 Yorkshire
Dales British Mountain Map; Harveys’
1:40,000 Coast to Coast West; OS 1:25,000
Explorer OL19, Howgill Fells & Upper Eden
Valley
6
of the highlights of the area around the
attractive Pennine market town of Kirkby
Stephen. These include parts of the Poetry
Path, two restored viaducts, a centuries-old
packhorse bridge and a particularly fascinating
section of the River Eden.
Route
A shared cycleway, running parallel with the
A685, drops northeast from the station. When
it ends, cross the concrete track and go
through the gate to the right of Halfpenny
House. Follow the wall on the left to the field
corner, then head left along a path above the
River Eden. Go left on reaching the road, then
through a gate on the right. Bear right to cross
the Millennium Bridge over a dramatic gorge.
Turn left along the route of the disused
Stainmore Railway. When this ends at a minor
road, turn left, through Hartley. Take the next
road on the left, signed Kirkby Stephen. At a
sharp right bend, take the path on the left,
soon following the River Eden upstream. For a
detour into Kirkby Stephen, cross Frank’s
Bridge: the main route continues along the
Kirkby Stephen Station
river’s east bank. About 550 yards (500m) after
crossing Ladthwaite Beck, turn right through a
gate, then cross a bridge over the river. Turn
left along the riverside path, soon passing one
the southern slopes of Gowbarrow provide a magnificent
view right up ullswater to the Helvellyn range
GRID REF START:
NY386171/ FINISH:
NY399199
FINISH
START
GRID REF START/FINISH: NY762066
START/
FINISH
of several poetry-inscribed stones. You
eventually reach the road close to the
Millennium Bridge. Turn left to retrace your
steps to the station.
other options
The railway provides dozens of opportunities
for linking stations via linear routes. My
favourites all involve Mallerstang: get off the
train at Garsdale and climb Wild Boar Fell to
the west of the valley, or Mallerstang Edge to
the east, or take the mid-level option provided
by Lady Anne’s Way.
7
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Lakeland
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