Building a Wooden Boat

Transcription

Credits
Many thanks to David Beede who designed the original Summer
Breeze boat and also to Duckworks Magazine who both allowed me to
use some of their drawings, pictures and other information for this
book.
A couple other builders who gave me permission to use their pictures
are Kevin Falvey and Dan Lyke from the WoodenBoat Forum.
Also, thanks to the many people online who posted pictures, videos,
and other information about this design as well as the many kind
people on the WoodenBoat Forum who offered advice and inspiration
as I built my first wooden boat.
www.Glen-L.com logo
Thanks to Gayle Brantuk from Glen-L Marine Designs for permission
to include their glossary of boat building & boating terms in this book.
David Beede's site : http://www.simplicityboats.com
David Beede's Homepage : http://www.davidbeede.com
DuckWorks Magazine : http://www.duckworksmagazine.com
Kevin Falvey's Blog : http://www.boatsandboatinggear.blogspot.com/
Dan Lyke's site : http://www.flutterby.net/Main_Page
Glen-L Marine Designs : http://www.glen-l.com/
All pictures not credited are my own.
Table of Contents
Preface........................................i
The Inspiration.........................iii
The Parts....................................1
Sides .....................................1
Stem .....................................1
Frame ...................................1
Transom ...............................1
Chine Logs ...........................1
Gunwales .............................1
Inwales .................................2
Bottom .................................2
Keel ......................................2
Skeg .....................................2
Breasthook ...........................2
Quarter knees .......................3
Rudder blade ........................3
Rudder head .........................3
Tiller ....................................3
Rudder hardware ..................3
Leeboard ..............................3
Mast partner .........................4
Mast step ..............................4
Mast ....................................5
Yard ......................................5
Sprit boom ...........................5
Snotter ..................................5
Sail........................................6
Seat.......................................6
Sides..........................................9
Stem.........................................11
Frame.......................................17
The Transom............................23
Assembling the sides, stem,
frame and transom...................28
Chine Logs..............................31
Gunwales.................................33
Inwales....................................34
Bottom.....................................36
Keel and Skeg..........................42
Breasthook...............................49
Quarter knees...........................52
Rudder Blade...........................53
Rudder head.............................55
Tiller........................................57
Rudder hardware.....................58
Leeboard..................................61
Mast partner.............................63
Mast step.................................66
Mast.........................................67
Spars........................................68
Sail...........................................69
Seat..........................................73
Boat Speak...............................74
Nominal Vs. Actual Lumber
Dimensions..............................97
Decimal Equivalents...............99
April 11, 2013
This is the second proof copy of this book.
There are sure to be some spelling and grammar mistakes.
It should, however, contain enough information to build this boat.
I have tried to include as much information as possible about this
particular design of boat in order to make it easier for other builders to
use while building their own version of this boat.
In building my first boat, I found it difficult to locate all of the
dimensions needed to make this boat and got my information from
several online sources and made up my own where I couldn't find what
I needed.
I make no claims that this is the exact plans that David Beede created
but, I did end up with a usable boat in the end.
As this is written, I have built the basic boat and have not yet added
the parts to make it into a sail boat.
You may use or share this book with others as you like as long as you
give credit to the people who allowed me to use their information and
pictures.
Preface
My dream of building a wooden boat began after reading a book by
Robert Manry called Tinkerbelle. In his book, Robert buys an old
wooden sailboat then repairs and modifies it into a miniature cabin
cruiser and then he goes on to sail it across the Atlantic Ocean. Like
many who read adventure stories, I began dreaming about sailing
around a local lake in a similar boat. After finding an article with
plans for a similar boat in the August 1967 edition of Mechanix
Illustrated, I began studying the plans. Unfortunately, these plans were
not complete enough for someone with my limited boat building skills.
I had never built a boat before and don't understand all the processes of
building a boat. That led to a search for other plans. Looking for the
simplest boat, I came across many plans for one-sheet boats built using
just one sheet of plywood. Although these boats looked easy enough
and cheap enough to build, they just were not what I was looking for.
More searching came up with a design by David Beede called Summer
Breeze. This one was designed for a contest from DuckWorks
Magazine using two sheets of plywood and various other pieces of
common lumber. These plans were available for free and it looked
like many people have built copies of this design. After much time
spent studying the plans and articles online, I began by redesigning it
to use the materials I had or could get easily and cheaply. I had
decided to use cheap underlayment plywood available at the local
building supply store, which I had been repeatedly warned against
using to build a boat out of and then shortened the sides to avoid so
much splicing together of bits of plywood to get all the parts out of the
limited materials. Sure, I could have just built it as the plans showed
but I figured that a few inches shorter boat was worth the savings in
time and effort of fitting all the little pieces together with glue, epoxy
or other methods.
This book describes my adventures with building a wooden boat with
no formal training. I have included my own drawings showing how I
designed the parts as well as pictures as the boat comes together. This
is obviously not the correct method to build a boat, but, it is how I did
i
it. I have also used some rather crude methods when I didn't have the
right tools or materials. That is one benefit of starting out with a
smaller and cheaper design for your first try at boat building. You
would never risk improvising on materials if you had a lot of time and
money invested in your boat. Feel free to use the best materials you
can afford but be aware that, especially if this is your first build, you
will most likely make mistakes. If you decide to use or copy my
methods, you are on your own. This will not get you a perfect boat
that will last for generations and can be considered as practice in
preparation for the time you might decide to build a better boat. It
does make a good project to get you started in boat building without
spending a lot of money or time.
ii
The Inspiration
The original idea for this boat was found as free plans online.
Summer Breeze was designed by David Beede and won DuckWorks
Magazine's 2001 amateur boat design competition. The contest was to
build any boat you can imagine from the following parts:
(2) 4' x 8' sheets of 1/4" (or less) plywood
(2) 10 foot 1 x 12's
(2) 8 foot 2 x 4's
(2) 10 foot x 1-1/2" diameter wood poles
(2) 8' x 10' polytarps
(2) 50' lengths of 1/4" nylon rope
Unlimited glue, fasteners, paint, and duct tape
And, a small outboard or trolling motor may be specified.
Not building it for the contest, I have tried to simplify the building
process at the expense of using more materials than were specified by
the contest rules. Basically, I used what I had or could easily get. If
you are not concerned with building a boat that will last for many
years, your choice of building materials and methods becomes both
cheaper and more available. With care, this boat can provide much
enjoyment. Both in building it as well as in using it. Along the way,
you will gain valuable experience that can be useful when you move
on to more advanced boat building projects. Mistakes you make while
building your first boat will be less costly when you choose a simple
design for your first try. While this design is not the smallest or even
the easiest boat you could choose for your first attempt, it will likely
result in a boat that you can be proud to say, “I built it myself.”
Even if you mess it up and fail completely, at least you won't be out
very much money.
Don't allow your lack of special skills or proper “marine grade”
iii
materials stop you from even trying to build your own boat. Be
careful and don't take dangerous chances while building or using your
boat but, don't let anyone convince you that you can't do it. Try it, you
might just surprise yourself.
Dan Lyke's picture
iv
The Parts
Sides
The sides are cut from the first sheet of plywood. To get the length
needed from a standard 4'x8' sheet of plywood, the sides need to be
spliced together. This can be done with butt blocks or by scarfing the
pieces together.
Stem
This is the front piece of the boat that connects the two sides together.
Also called a cutwater.
Frame
This boat design only uses one frame section to help hold the sides at
the desired width and shape.
Transom
The transom is the back of the boat. This is where the rudder
assembly is attached.
Chine Logs
These can be either internal or external pieces that will help fasten the
bottom to the sides. Depending on your building methods, these may
or may not be needed. For the stitch and glue method, these are
replaced by fillets of thickened epoxy and fiberglass tape.
Gunwales
These are strips along the outside, top edge of the sides. They help
1
strengthen and shape the sides of the boat as well as protect the top
edge of the thin plywood sides.
Inwales
These are the same as the gunwales except they are on the inside, top
edge of the sides. They are often held away from the inner side by
spacers. This is done to allow water to more easily be dumped out of a
small boat. It also gives the boat a nice look and can even be used to
tie things onto to keep them in the boat.
Bottom
The bottom of the boat is made from the second sheet of plywood. To
get the length needed, two triangle shaped pieces are cut from the full
sheet and joined, using butt blocks, to the front of the remaining sheet.
Keel
The keel is glued and screwed along the center of the outside bottom.
It helps to strengthen the bottom and supports the skeg.
Skeg
The skeg is a sternward (towards the rear of the boat) extension of the
keel used to increase the directional stability of the boat.
Breasthook
The breasthook is a roughly triangular horizontal piece directly behind
the stem of the boat between the sides or inwales. Used to strengthen
the boat. Often they are curved in a decorative shape to save weight.
They also provide a hand hold when carrying the boat.
2
Quarter knees
The quarter knees are curvy, L-shaped pieces of wood that reinforce
the side-to-transom joint. They can be made as simple triangles or
rounded and curved to make them nicer looking.
Rudder blade
The rudder blade is the vertical blade of the rudder that is attached to
the rudder head to steer the vessel.
Rudder head
The rudder head is the upper part of the rudder that is attached to the
transom with pintles and gudgeons or other hinges to move the rudder
blade and steer the vessel. It also, on this boat, allows the rudder blade
to pivot upwards if it hits something.
Tiller
The tiller is the handle that is attached to the rudder head to allow you
to steer the vessel from your seat.
Rudder hardware
The rudder hardware holds the rudder assembly to the transom and
allows it to hinge right and left. Usually this is done with a couple
pintles and gudgeons but, on simple, home-built boats like this one, it
can be another hinging mechanism.
Leeboard
The leeboard is a foil placed on the side of a sailboat to keep the boat
from being pushed sideways by wind or waves. It functions similar to
3
a centerboard or daggerboard except that it doesn't require a hole in the
hull of the boat, which might leak, and it doesn't take up interior space.
The leeboard is not common in commercially built boats since many
people consider them inelegant and awkward. It is common in many
home-built boats to simplify construction.
Edited picture from David Beede's
simplicityboats.com site
Mast partner
The mast partner supports the mast near the upper part of the boat
sides.
Mast step
The mast step holds the base of the mast in position at the floor of the
boat.
4
Mast
The mast is a tall, vertical spar that supports the sail.
Yard
The yard is the spar at the head of a lug sail.
Sprit boom
The sprit boom is used near the bottom (foot) of the sail instead of a
normal boom. It is slanted down from the mast to the clew of the sail.
The advantage on this small boat is that it is higher on the mast
reducing the chance of being hit by the boom and is lighter. One note
from the Duckworks article on this design: Because of the limited
materials specified for the contest, if you used chine logs, there wasn't
enough materials to build this sprit boom so, David Beede stated that
the sail can be used “loose footed”. Since I'm not building it for the
contest, I can just use a bit more wood and keep this item.
Snotter
The snotter tensions the sprit boom.
from DuckWorks Magazine
5
Sail
This boat uses what is called a lug sail. It was designed to be made
from a simple tarp. According to Wikipedia, the lugsail is an evolved
version of the classical square sail. In both rigs, the upper side of the
sail is attached to a spar, the yard, which is hoisted up the mast by a
rope known as the halyard. The lower side of the sail is held in place
by a separate set of ropes, the sheet and tack downhaul.
The main difference between the lugsail and square sail is the location
of the yard in relation to the mast. A square sail is lifted with the
halyard in the middle of the yard, lifting the sail so it lies evenly on
either side of the mast. In the lugger, the halyard is attached much
closer to one end or the other of the yard, and when lifted the majority
of the sail will lie fore or aft of the mast. Since the luff of the sail is
shorter than the leech, the after end of the yard is peaked up by the
combination of the upward force of the halyard and the downward
force of the tack downhaul. This allows the mast to be shorter than the
sail, the peaked yard making up the difference in height.
There are three sorts of lugsail: the standing lug, in which the yard
remains on one side of the mast and the tack is set close to the mast,
the balance lug (also called balanced lug), which resembles the
standing lug, but sets a boom, which continues as far forward of the
mast as the leading edge of the yard. The dipping lug lacks a boom and
has the top yard dipped around the mast while changing course across
the wind so that the sail draws away from the mast on each tack.
One advantage of this type of sail is that the mast doesn't have to be as
tall since the yard extends the height of the sail.
Seat
The seat is used while rowing this boat. Many builders have
substituted a milk crate or other removable seat to avoid taking up
space in the boat. The location of the seat should be set to balance the
boat while rowing. It can change depending on whether you are alone
or have someone else with you. For this reason, a movable seat can
6
help to keep the balance right. Fixed seats in small boats are
sometimes built as a sealed air chamber, often with a removable hatch,
which provides floatation as well as dry storage space. Foam
floatation could also be fastened underneath the seat to provide some
buoyancy in case of capsize.
7
Sides
The original plans for the sides uses all of the first sheet of plywood.
The few extra pieces in this sheet have been designed to be used for
other parts of the boat making the only waste basically just the
sawdust.
From David Beede's simplicityboats.com website
That is a great use of material but it also means that you must cut right
on the lines (splitting the kerf) to insure all parts of the sides are the
same height. Another “problem” with this design is that the length of
the bottom requires just a little more than the second sheet provides so
the piece marked as “Bow Butt Block” is used to add a couple strips
on the front of the bottom covering.
For my first build of this design, I cut the sides as close to right on the
lines as I could using a saber or jig saw. I first cut out the “Bow Side”
pieces and then cut the remaining piece to the indicated 90” length. I
then used a table saw and divided the cut off butt block pieces into two
equal pieces. Then, I cut the piece for the “Aft Sides” in half
9
lengthwise and marked out the cut lines on one piece. Next, I clamped
the two pieces together and cut them to shape at once to insure they
matched. I also sanded the point where the long taper meets the
straight part to get rid of the sharp bend that would otherwise be
needed on the bottom sheet (which it wouldn't be able to do). I left the
angled cut for the transom long on my first attempt but ended up
cutting it out on the lines anyway. I now realized that if I would have
straightened up the angle some, it probably would have made my
transom tall enough to match the height of the sides. As it turned out,
my transom turned out just a bit too short.
To eliminate adding filler pieces on the bottom, I cut an extra 3” off
the length of the sides. The side pieces were glued to length using butt
blocks but, if you were to use scarf joints instead, that would also
shorten the length so no extra would need cut off the length to avoid
the bottom filler pieces. A 12 to 1 scarf would shorten the length 3”
and an 8 to 1 scarf would shorten them by 2” which should still work.
To clamp the sides for gluing the butt blocks, I used a scrap of wood
on edge to keep the pressure even across the piece. I also used a
couple pieces of freezer paper to keep the glue from sticking to my
clamping boards.
10
Stem
The original design for the stem stated that it could be made from solid
stock or, to use the least amount of materials, it could be made from a
1 x 2 inch piece that is sawed and glued back together to give a 41°
angled stem.
from David Beede's simplicityboats.com
website
I decided to go with a method that David used on his prototype build.
This one was made using a 2x4 board with angled grooves cut on a
table saw to hold the bow sides with a fancy profile cut into it. On his
prototype he used a 27° setting. I went with the 20-1/2° angle (or as
close as I could) on my build. It did make fitting the chine logs and
gunwales more difficult but I liked the looks of it.
To make my stem, I cut a 2x4 board to around 2' long and set the table
saw to 20-1/2° and run the piece through the saw, flipping it around to
cut both edges. Then I reset the fence and cut the slots to width. This
took several cuts to get the width right and actually took a few
“practice” pieces to get the right depth and width.
11
My pattern for the shape needed a little adjusting to get the bottom
angle cut shaped right to allow for the bottom thickness and the
thickness of the keel.
12
With the sides cut out, it was fairly easy to mark out the right length
and the needed angle and size of the cutout.
If you don't want to make the one piece stem like I did, Kevin Falvey
made his like the original plans called for.
13
Kevin Falvey's picture
14
You can see he added another piece onto the front of the stem. Note
that it was left long to be cut to length latter.
This part was machined from VG doug fir, ¾" x 1". Its glued, and
screwed onto the boat with 1-1/2" silicon bronze flathead, squaredrive, wood screws.
15
Frame
The original plans called for laying out the frame on some large paper
or other surface and using that to build the frame pieces to the right
size and angle.
From David Beede's site, here is his drawing for the half frame
dimensions.
from David Beede's simplicityboats.com site
And his full frame drawing with a brace at the top to support it while
you build.
17
For the gusset, he used 1/4” plywood glued and screwed between the
horizontal and vertical parts of the frame like this.
from David Beede's simplicityboats.com
site
To make his gusset, he provided this drawing. Note that the original
gussets were cut from the second sheet of plywood. Skip ahead to the
chapter on the bottom if you use this method to see where to cut them
from that sheet.
Checking the dimensions with an
online triangle calculator, I
discovered that the dimensions
were not exact. This is not
critical anyway and doesn't need
to be exact but according to my
calculations, the 9.5” dimension
should be 9.584” which is closer
to 9-37/64” (9.578”) to give a
106° angle.
from David Beede's
Another thing you might want to do with your frame is to add limber
holes to allow water to move freely from one side of the frame to the
other and make bailing any water out easier. I left my frame without
and limber holes since David also stated on his site, “I feel they are
18
optional in this small a boat since a boat this size is often turned over
to empty, or bailed and sponged.”
Another optional but nice feature to add to the frame is to make the
gussets curved instead of just triangles like this picture from Kevin
Falvey.
You can also see that he included limber holes in his boat. He glued
pieces of PVC pipe into the half-hole to protect the exposed grain
inside the limber from water intrusion. If nothing else, you should
paint or seal these holes before you glue on the bottom since it would
be hard to seal these holes after the boat is assembled.
On this zoomed-in picture, you
can see that Dan Lyke also curved
the gussets on his boat.
Dan Lyke's picture
19
Instead of building my frame like the plans showed, I drew it up with a
CAD program and made mine with the lumber I already had. The
original was supposed to be 3/4” thick x 1-1/2” wide boards. I had
some 2” wide boards so that is what I used.
20
The height of my frame was shortened to allow around 1-1/2” at the
upper edge to fit the inwales. You can build your frame however you
want to fit your particular boat. Leave the legs long and cut the length
as you get further along with your build.
You can see, I made my frame different than the plans. If I build this
design again, I would probably do it a little bit different but this way
also works. It just takes a slight bit more space in the boat and adds
some extra weight. I was impatient and tried to do things as quick and
simple as I could but, with a little extra time and effort, a fancier
looking frame could have been made. You can also see from my
picture, I didn't include any limber holes or notches for inner chine
logs. I went with external chine logs on my boat. Keep in mind how
you intend to build your boat and how the parts will fit together and
make any changes you need to.
21
The Transom
The next piece I built was the transom of the boat. This is another
part where I strayed from the original plans. This was actually a
mistake in my numbers caused from trying to get my free plans from
the various online sources. The plans I drew up were only off by 1/2”
on the bottom dimension so I feel they should still work. When I
realized the mistake, I had already marked and cut my plywood.
The original drawing from David Beede's site is here.
In addition to this piece, he specified a crown piece attached to the top
of the transom that was cut from a piece of one of the 1x12's.
I ran into a problem here since the nominal size of a standard 1x12 is
only 11-1/4” instead of his 11-5/8” dimension. The dimension for the
crown piece was not given (that I could find) so I made up my own
plans and used a piece of 3/4” plywood instead of the 1x12.
23
My drawing for the transom was drawn with the wrong bottom
dimension but that was how I made mine and it still worked out ok.
NOTE: The 13° angle was not quite right on my build. It still worked
but probably should have been closer to 15 or 16° on my boat. The
changes I made might have caused that or the position of my frame
might have been off. I also found that the height was a little bit short
but this could have probably been fixed by adjusting the angle of the
cut on the rear of the sides.
To make this part, I found a piece of scrap 3/4” plywood and marked
out the lines from my plan. Then I nailed in a couple small nails at the
upper corners and bent a yardstick to draw in the radius for the crown.
I also marked that side as “inside” since the sides will be cut at 13°
angles to match the bend of the sides. That will leave the full width on
the inside of the boat and the angled, slightly narrower part on the
outside so you might want to choose the side of the plywood or other
board you use to put the best side either inside or outside depending on
how you intend to finish your boat. You should also mark the center of
the transom on the part. This will help when assembling the boat as
well as when you install the keel, the skeg, and the rudder assembly.
To make the cuts, I used a circular saw. In order to get the 13° angles
(which I now think should have been 15 or 16°) cut along the sides, I
24
first made an angle gage using a miter saw and a scrap of wood to set
the circular saw's blade to that angle.
With the blade set on the saw, I then cut the two sides making sure the
angles both went the same way. This just meant cutting one side from
bottom to top and the opposite side from top to bottom.
After the two sides were cut at the correct angle, I readjusted the saw
blade back to 90° and carefully cut the crown radius. Set the blade
25
depth just a bit more than the thickness of the wood and make the cut
following the line. You can stay slightly to the waste side of the line
and sand it to final shape. This cut is basically just for looks and it
won't make much difference if you don't get it exactly to your marks.
Just make it look nice enough for your own tastes and you should be
fine. It could also be left flat if you don't want to cut the radius. You
could always glue on a strip to make up any needed height if it ends up
shorter than it should have been.
The height of my drawing should leave a little bit extra that you will
need to hand plane or otherwise shape to fit when you go to assemble
the bottom of the boat.
Here is my transom just cut from the plywood. As you can see, the
crown is not much of a curve and the circular saw was able to follow
the curve quite well.
Since my plywood was a used piece that I found, I had to fill a couple
nail holes in it. Then I gave it a quick sanding and gave the outside
surface a coat of paint. I left the inside unpainted since I want to paint
the inside a different color. I also made sure not to paint the edges that
will get glued or the bottom which will get planed to match the bottom
angle and then glued.
26
I ended up painting the outside of my boat with this same siding, fence
and barn paint. It gave it a rather flat red color but that was what I
already had and this was a low budget first build. It should be possible
to paint the finished boat with a nicer looking paint if I ever decide to.
27
Assembling the sides, stem, frame and
transom
With these parts made, you can begin a trial assembly of the parts to
make your pile of wood look more like a boat. Drywall screws with
small 1/4” blocks can be used for this trial fitting before you glue up
anything which makes disassembling it easier in case there are any
problems.
from David Beede's
First, attach the stem to one of
the bow ends and then line the
sides of the frame up with the
marks on the sides to make a big
“H” shape using the drywall
screws with 1/4” plywood pads.
from David Beede's
28
Next, using a “Spanish windless” – loop of rope with a stick twisting it
to tighten it, a truckers hitch, or even a nylon tie down strap, bring the
bow sides together and screw the other side of the stem.
from David Beede's
Now, attach one end of the transom to
one side end with drywall screws.
from David Beede's
simplicityboats.com
site
Now just pull the sides in
to meet the transom and
attach it with some more
drywall screws.
from David Beede's
Now, to check it for alignment,
stretch a string from the center of
the bow to the center of the transom
and make sure the line passes
through the center mark on the
frame. If it doesn't, adjust it by
bumping it around until they all line
up.
29
from David Beede's
Here's my boat partway through the test fitting. With my one-piece
stem and one side glued, the other side slipped into the slot and held
itself.
The transom should have been screwed on temporarily but I ended up
gluing and nailing mine on later. Had I done things right, I think I
could have adjusted the angle of the transom and made my transom fit
full height. As it turned out, mine was a little bit short. Oh well,
maybe next time.
This is a good point to test the fit of the bottom sheet to check it for fit.
You can adjust the position of the transom if your bottom sheet is not
quite long enough since it is only dry screwed on. On my boat, since I
shortened the sides by 3”, the length was not a problem. Once you are
convinced that everything will line up and fit, you can disassemble the
parts and reassemble them with glue this time. Before the glue dries,
you should check it one more time to make sure the center lines all
match.
30
Chine Logs
To make the chine logs, you first need to decide whether to make
them internal or external. The external chine logs are easier to build
since you can saw off the excess after they are installed but the internal
ones give the outside of the boat a smoother look. If you decide to
build this boat using the stitch-and-glue method, the chine logs are not
needed.
I made mine with the external style. The original plans called for
splitting one strip of wood (5/8” x 1-1/2”) in half at an 18° angle to get
the most out of the material. I planned to build mine that way but
ended up setting the fence of the table saw wrong. That meant that I
ended up using an extra 12 foot long strip and had more waste. I
should have found a scrap of wood to test the setup with before cutting
the actual part.
Installing the chine logs required more clamps than I had so I used a
lot of improvised PVC clamps. It is recommended to install both sides
at one time to avoid any twisting of the boat that might result from
doing one side at a time but I barely had enough clamps to do one side
at a time. I tried cutting the front of the chine log to match the fancy
stem piece but ended up getting it close and trying to fill it in with
some more glue. That didn't work that good but it should work out in
the end. Paint and putty can hide a lot of mistakes. I spread PL
Premium construction adhesive on the chine log and clamped it,
starting at the front, using “real” clamps as well as the PVC clamps to
hold it in place while the glue dried. Before adding any glue, I dry
clamped the piece on to test the fit and see where the best place for my
limited supply of “real” clamps should go. This showed that the 18°
degree angle was not quite right, at least on my boat. To make up for
this, I left the chine log sticking out past the bottom of the side to
allow me to hand plane it before I attach the bottom of the boat. It
looks like 11° would have been closer but it was too late by then to
change it. Next time I would try to measure the angle using a straight
bar or board across the bottom of the boat and an adjustable bevel
gage. As it turns out, with a sharp hand plane, it wasn't too hard to fix
since I left the chine logs extended out enough to account for the
31
needed adjustment. Had I not done that, it would have required cutting
the sides down and that would have also meant that the bottom of the
frame would have needed cut down also. Another option is to just
leave the chine logs square and extended past the bottom then handplane the angle as needed. This might have actually been better since
the angle can change on different sections of the boat. Since my chine
logs were just pine strips cut from a 2x6 board, they planed pretty
easily with a sharp hand plane. It did still take some time but wasn't
hard work.
Since I didn't build my boat using internal chine logs, I will just refer
you to David Beede's site at :
http://www.simplicityboats.com/summerbreezetemp.html
for that information.
32
Gunwales
The gunwales are pretty easy parts to make. I made mine from 5/8”
thick x 1-1/2” wide strips cut from a long 2x6 board. The front side
was cut to an angle to match the stem and then glued and clamped up.
Instead of using more PL Premium, I went with Titebond II glue for
the gunwales. Once the glue was dry, I cut the extra off the transom
side with a hand saw.
33
Inwales
This is another part that I skipped while building my first boat. You
need to plan ahead and make your breasthook and quarter knees to
match your style of inwales. You can choose to make the inwales flat
against the inner sides of the boat or you can make spacers to hold the
inwales away from the sides. This is more work but can really make
the boat look nice.
34
Dan Lyke's picture
from David Beede's simplicity.com site
35
Bottom
The bottom of the boat is made from the second sheet of plywood.
Mark a center line lengthwise on the ply sheet at 24”. Also a center
line width wise at 48”. (This is where the center frame falls.)
from David Beede's simplictyboats.com site
Draw the 12” x 32” triangles on the corners of the ply sheet, then cut,
and set aside.
Draw and cut out the frame gussets and breast hook from the other
corners as shown in the drawing if you are following the original
plans. I decided to use thicker solid wood for these parts on my boat
so those sections were not needed although the frame gussets may
have been better made from the plywood as shown above.
Rip a 3” strip off both sides - one will make the lengthwise butt block
for gluing the bow section of the back. The other will be laminated
into a backup plate for the leeboard. Again, I skipped this step on my
boat since I had extra pieces left from my first sheet due to cutting 3”
off the length of the sides.
Now glue the triangles to the end of the ply per the drawing and
instructions below.
36
Next, I cut the left-over material to the needed length of the front
triangles.
37
Then I layed the pieces out on the boat and traced the inside and
outside lines on them to show me where the butt blocks should go.
First, I glued the two triangles together with plastic under the pieces
using a clamp on the front and a couple weights on the back section.
Note that I used a piece of freezer paper to keep from gluing the clamp
to the butt block. Also note that I had to brace the rear weight to keep
the butt block from sliding out of position while the glue dried.
38
Next, after the glue dried on that part, I glued up the front triangle to
the rear bottom section being sure that it was centered. I used the
same method of clamping this part using the cast iron weights.
39
Again, note the use of freezer paper to keep any squeeze out from
sticking anywhere it wasn't wanted.
Once the parts of the bottom were glued up and dry, I spread PL
Premium on the chine logs and attached the bottom using a lot of
clamps, both “real” clamps as well as homemade PVC clamps. I also
used a lot of regular steel ring nails to insure it stayed in place. I know
that bronze ring nails would have been better or even stainless steel or
silicon bronze screws but I used what I already had knowing that the
nails will rust and stain the bottom eventually. Since this is my first
attempt at building a boat, I'm not too worried about the lifespan of
this one. I just wanted to get it built and try it out. Next time I'll
probably spend the extra time and money to do it better.
Notice that I used the weights to apply pressure to the bottom of the
frame as it dried and also that I didn't cut the front triangle to shape
yet. Once it was dry, I cut the front close to the chines and then hand40
planed and sanded the whole thing to finished shape. At the transom I
also cut it a little closer to the finished size since it extended a bit
further than I cared to plane off by hand. Then I sanded a slight radius
on the bottom and planed and sanded a radius on the chine logs and the
gunwale before giving it the first coat of paint.
I left the area where the keel will go unpainted but wanted to get the
first coat of several layers of paint on the boat. Mainly I did this just
to see what it would look like but also to speed up my build to the
point where I could test it out. I don't plan on putting any epoxy or
fiberglass on this boat so the paint will be the only waterproofing and
protection it has so it will get several coats of paint and will probably
need repainted often as it gets scratched up from use.
41
Keel and Skeg
The keel is needed to strengthen the flat bottom of the boat and keep it
from flexing. The original plans call for it to be made from a 3/4”
thick by 2-1/2” wide board if your skeg will be 3/4” thick or 2-1/4” if
you use the two pieces of 1/4” plywood laminated together from the
leftover parts from the first sheet of plywood. Whatever it takes to
make the strips on either side of the skeg 3/4” wide. The width isn't
real critical. Just make the slot to fit your choice of skeg thickness.
I made some changes in how I make the keel of my boat for better or
worse. To avoid cutting the slot for the skeg, I made my keel in
several sections.
Refer to David Beede's site at :
http://www.simplicityboats.com/summerbreezetemp.html
for the original directions.
42
The front section was just a strip of wood 3/4” thick by 1-1/2” wide to
match the width of my stem. It extended back to the point where the
36” long skeg would fit.
43
To make the skeg, I found a piece of solid wood to use and held it in
place and marked out the rear of the skeg and the height of the keel on
the board. The original plans called for using two pieces of leftover
plywood laminated together from the first sheet but I went with solid
wood instead.
To mark the back angle, I held a scrap of wood against the transom
and drew the angled line on my skeg.
44
To make cutting that angle easier using a miter saw, I measured the
angle on my drawn-out skeg board. You can see that I changed the
height of the skeg. I had originally drawn it at 4-1/2” at the highest
point but lowered it to only 4”. The original was supposed to be
3-1/2” high but I wanted to make mine larger to try to increase the
directional stability since I wasn't trying to use the leftover pieces of
plywood from the cut-out sides.
45
Then, after finding out that the keel was meant to be full length in
order to strengthen the floor of the boat, I made the rear sections with a
cut-out notch to fit against the skeg and extended forward just past the
frame of the boat. These sections were glued and screwed in place as
seen here. The size of your cut-out will depend on the thickness of the
skeg you use if you decide to build it this way. Looking back, it would
have been just as easy to cut the slot like the original plans used. The
only difference is that your keel would have had to be longer but you
could always scarf a couple shorter pieces together to get the length if
needed.
After some filling and sanding, it didn't look too bad.
For the filler, I tried an experiment. Try this at your own risk. What I
did was mix regular baking flour with Titebond II wood glue and put it
in a plastic bag. I cut the corner off the bottom of the bag and
squeezed the filler out along the seams then smoothed it out into a
fillet.
46
With the filler dry and everything sanded, I went ahead and finished
painting the bottom with it's first coat of paint.
This was starting to look a lot more like a boat so, after another coat or
two of paint on the bottom and sides, I painted the inside.
47
In this picture, you can see that I already had the breasthook done and,
once the paint was dry enough, I couldn't wait any longer and took it to
a local pond for a quick test. It floated and didn't leak. It's not
complete yet but it's a boat now !!!
48
Breasthook
On my first build of this boat, I debated on building this part like many
I had seen on other boats that looked real nice with laminated pieces
and fancy curves but I decided to go for a more simple triangle shape
for this one.
Here is my original drawing. Keep in mind that your dimensions may
be different on your particular boat so making a cardboard pattern
would be a good idea to insure it fits.
49
I simplified my plan even more and eliminated the curve since I may
not even use inwales on this boat. This is my first boat and I didn't
want to get too fancy with the design since I'm not really sure how
long this boat will last and, more important, I'm impatient to get it
done. You can get as fancy as you like with this part on your own
boat.
I glued the breasthook on using PL Premium construction adhesive.
Small nails or screws might have been a good idea to really strengthen
it up but I used glue alone on mine although I am a bit cautious about
lifting the boat by this piece now. I used some clamps to force it into
position while the glue dried. The side edges were hand-planed to
match the angle of the sides so it fit pretty tight by itself. Notice the
pieces of freezer paper to make sure any glue squeeze out didn't stick
to the clamps.
After the glue dried, I sanded the top surface to smooth the wood and
level the excess glue. PL Premium doesn't sand real well since it is
kind of rubbery but it worked good enough for my tastes.
50
Here is a picture of the semi-finished front of my boat. With a little
paint I don't think it turned out bad.
51
Quarter knees
I went with simple triangle quarter knees on my boat. I marked out 6”
from the rear corners on both the gunwales and the transom and held a
board at these marks. Then I just traced the inside lines and cut out the
triangles. To get the angles to match, I used a bevel gage and a
combination of a compound miter saw and a hand-plane then finally
an orbital sander. Once the fit was good enough, I glued and clamped
them in place. A couple screws or nails would have eliminated the
need for the clamps but I'm trying mine with glue alone. I used
Titebond II but PL Premium would fill better if your fit isn't tight
enough.
52
Rudder Blade
To come up with dimensions for the rudder parts of my boat, I used the
drawings from David Beede's site.
Here's a zoomed-in drawing from his site:
From that drawing I came up with my own with more dimensions
shown.
53
Cutting out and sanding it to shape I ended up with this.
The hole for the pivot bolt was not drilled yet in this picture. It will
probably need either lead weights added or a bungee cord or spring to
hold it down and keep it from floating.
54
Rudder head
I ended up making more changes to the plans when I made this part. I
didn't want to make so many fancy cuts and didn't think it would make
any difference other than in appearance.
From the original plans I came up with this drawing.
55
Eliminating the difficult looking cut I ended up with this instead.
After assembling the pieces and adding a stop on the rudder head, I got
this.
56
Tiller
I have not tested this part to make sure the length is right. You will
want it to be long enough to steer the boat while sitting in a position
that balances your boat.
Here is what I made for my first try. I may to need to change the
length some so I didn't get too fancy with my tiller.
57
Rudder hardware
To hold the rudder blade to the rudder head, you can use stainless steel
bolts, washers, and nuts. The tiller can be attached the same way.
To hold the rudder assembly to the transom of your boat, there are
many options.
You could buy special hardware made for this purpose. You could also
fabricate your own if you have access to the right tools and materials.
The pintle attaches to the rudder head and the gudgeon attaches to the
transom. Two of each will be needed. The pin is fixed solid in the
pintle and slides into the gudgeon allowing the rudder to move left and
right to steer the boat. One pin should be longer than the other one and
the long one usually goes on the lower on which makes installing the
rudder while on the water easier.
58
This idea for rudder hardware was found on the pdracer.com website.
It was an idea from Ken Salvage and used a peice of 1/8" x 1"
aluminum that was bent and a length of 1/2” diameter tubing. 2X2
wood was used to connect it to the rudder and he also put the same
1/8” x 1” aluminum on the tops of the 2x2's to strengthen them and
keep the holes for the pivot rod from wearing out.
Dan Lyke used a pretty easy
looking setup on his rudder.
edited Dan Lyke's picture
59
From a message on the WoodenBoats Forum, Dan stated:
The rudder gudgeon is done with some blocks of some exotic
hardwood I got from the scrap pile at a high end deck place, it's too
open-grained for Ipe or Massaranduba, and too dark for Teak, so I'm
not sure what it is. For pintles we just took some bolts, which means
the "hinge pins" have threads on 'em. We bought some brass plates at
the hardware store to back up the screws holding on the gudgeon,
since the transom is just 1/4" ply.
Make the hinged portion of the rudder a little larger than we did.
If your transom has a large angle to it, make that lower gudgeon stick
out further to give yourself a more vertical rudder axis. Part of my
complaint about the small size of our rudder is that when you get
further to one side or another it's lifting more than turning.
Our first pass at a tiller put us too far aft. Boat planed fairly easily, but
the gunwales at the back end were a little too close to the water when
speedboats went by. Longer tiller put us further forward, floated level,
much more stable and clear of the waves.
This is probably the idea I will use if/when I install this part on my
boat.
Check out http://www.pdracer.com/rudder/ for other ideas for
homemade hardware for mounting your rudder.
60
Leeboard
This is a slightly different shape than what David Beede shows on his
site. Here is a picture showing his roughed out leeboard.
from David Beede's
61
To mount the leeboard on your boat, you can use a long stainless steel
bolt with big fender washers and either a lock nut or two nuts to keep
it from coming loose.
It is mounted on the starboard (right) side of the boat with the pivot
bolt at 82” back from the bow (front) of the boat.
The original plans provide a piece of plywood from the bottom sheet
to be used as a leeboard backing plate which should be glued up as
three laminations thick to support the leeboard on the side of the boat.
Spacer blocks on the outside may be needed to clear the gunwale and
outer chine log if you used one and also to hold the leeboard in more
of a straight up and down position instead of angled like the sides.
62
Mast partner
I have not made the sailing parts of my boat as I write this up. The
size of the mast partner will depend on your particular boat as well as
what shape your mast is.
Here are a couple drawings I came up with for ideas on building this
part.
This first one is using a single, wide board.
The slot is drawn for a simple 1-1/2” x 2-3/4” section of the mast
which extends 18” from the bottom. From that point, it is to taper to
1-1/2” diameter at the top. The length of the mast is 10' (120”).
63
Another idea I had used several narrower boards instead of one wide
one.
The position of the mast partner places the center of the mast at 50”
back from the bow of the boat as shown here.
From David Beede's simplicityboats.com
site
64
This next picture shows Dan Lyke's boat with a round mast.
Dan Lyke's picture
65
Mast step
The mast step will also depend on your choice of mast. The original
design from the contest uses 4-3/4” squares cut from the extra material
from the bottom sheet of plywood.
edited picture from David Beede's
66
Mast
The mast can be made in many ways. It should be 10' long. Some
people who have built this boat used aluminum pipe and others have
used laminated wood to build it.
Going from my design for the mast partner, it should be
1-1/2” x 2-3/4” at the base and it starts tapering at 18” from the base to
a final diameter of 1-1/2” at the top.
A 3/8” or 1/2” diameter hole is drilled in the top for the halyard.
67
Spars
The spars (the yard and sprit boom) can be made from 10' long pieces
of 2x2's which are actually 1-1/2” square. Round the corners to cut
down on sail abrasion. The sprit boom can be made the same way
except it should be tapered to 1” square (with rounded corners) from
about 40” from each end. Use the clearest wood you can find to avoid
knots which weaken the parts.
68
Sail
The original sail was made from a 9'x12' tarp but, for the Duckworks
contest, it was redesigned to be pieced together from an 8'x10' tarp.
edited picture from David Beede's simplicityboats.com site
69
Refer to this link for detailed directions for building the sail:
http://www.simplicityboats.com/summerbreeze12.htm
From David Beede's simplicityboats.com site
70
Here is David's original sail design which was built out of a 9' x 12'
tarp. (Possibly a 10' x 12' tarp)
71
Here is the one for the contest made from the specified 8' x 10' tarp.
72
Seat
The seat is another item on this boat that I decided not to include in my
boat. I didn't want to give up all the open space. On David Beede's
prototype build of this boat, he didn't want a permanent seat either.
Instead, he stated that he usually sits on a stack of cushions.
If you add a seat, it should be cut to fit your particular boat. It can be
about 9” to 12” high or make it to fit your battery if you will be using a
trolling motor.
The position should be somewhere just forward of 79” from the bow.
The exact distance should be found by trial. Whatever distance
balances your boat best when you are sitting in rowing position. Keep
in mind that any passengers will change the balance so you may want
to build a movable seat with a separate position for when you have a
passenger. It can be notched around the frame where needed.
73
Boat Speak
Glossary of Boatbuilding
& Boating Terms
copied from http://www.glen-l.com/resources/glossary.html
Terms we use to describe our designs. This glossary was originally published in our
WebLetters. If you have any suggestions for additions, or corrections, please email:
[email protected]
The following was recommended by a customer as a source of
definitions for traditional sea terms. Transcribed by Christopher
Morrison, December 1997
"Dictionary of Sea Terms". 1841/1851 - From "The Seaman's Friend:
Containing a Treatise on Practical Seamanship, with Plates; A
Dictionary of Sea Terms; Customs and Usages of the Merchant
Service; Laws Relating to the Practical Duties of Master and Mariners.
by R. H. Dana, Jr. author of "Two Years Before the Mast". The Sixth
Edition, Revised and Corrected, Boston: Thomas Groom & Co., 1851.
Nautical Terms and Phrases... Their Meaning and Origin Naval
History Center
A
AFT
Toward the stern.
AIR-DRIED LUMBER
Lumber or other wood products that have been either dried by exposure to
natural atmospheric conditions outdoors or in an unheated shed. Wood that is
dried to equilibrium with the surrounding atmosphere. Moisture content of
air-dried wood fiber depends on relative humidity, temperature, and length of
drying period. Also referred to as air seasoned and contrasts with kiln-dried
(KD) lumber.
AMINE BLUSH
Most epoxies used in boatbuilding have "amine"-based hardeners. After the
epoxy is cured there will usually be a noticeable oily residue on the surface
called amine blush. The amount of amine blush can vary considerably, from
almost unnoticeable to very oily. This difference is the result of differences in
temperature and humidity. The amine blush can affect the bond of subsequent
coats of epoxy or paints and should be removed. Although a variety of
solvents have been used to remove amine blush, in the shop we use denatured
74
alcohol (shellac thinner), lacquer thinner or acetone. Amine blush can be
sanded off, but will require a lot of sandpaper as the paper tends to clog
quickly.
ANTI-TRIP CHINE
A flared out aft section of the side/bottom of the boat. The purpose is to
prevent the hard chine of the boat catching a wake or small wave on a sharp
turn.
ASPECT RATIO
The relationship between the height of a sail and its breadth. i.e. A sail with a
height of 30' and a breadth of 20' has an aspect ratio of 3:2.
ATHWARTSHIP(S)
Across the boat.
B
BACKSTAY
A wire-rope from the top of the mast leading aft to prevent the mast from
bending forward.
BALLAST
Weight carried low in a boat to increase stability. The lower, the greater the
benefit. Ballast can be lead, iron, concrete, etc., depending on the space
available. Some boats require lead (a more expensive material) because the
space available will not allow sufficient lighter material to achieve the
required ballast weight.
BATTENS
Thin semi-rigid strips of wood or synthetic material inserted into pockets in
the sail in order to maintain the shape of the sail. Interior longitudinal
reinforcements in a boat hull. Most often located on either side of the keel,
running as far forward as possible. Battens are also used to reinforce the sides
of some hulls.
BEAM
Width, generally the widest point on the hull, but beam could be given at any
point in the hull. "The beam at the transom, at frame number three." The
beam is sometimes given as though the hull were a rectangle. "The James
Cook: a 27' x 8' trailerable cruising sailboat."
BLOCK
A wood, metal, or synthetic casing containing one or more pulleys or sheaves.
BIMINI
Sun shade. A bimini provides protection from the sun. It is commonly made
from fabric mounted on a collapsible frame.
BOARD FOOT
A lumber measurement. One board foot = 1" X 12" X 12". A piece of lumber
2" X 12" X 12" = 2 board feet. When width and thickness are specified,
75
lumber may be called out as linear feet, i.e., 1" X 6" X 24 linear feet. Linear
feet is used when the the lumber will be cut into various lengths, as opposed
to a piece 1" X 6" x 24' which would be a single piece of wood.
BOBSTAY
A chain, wire-rope, or rod supporting a bowsprit or boomkin against upward
pull.
BOLTROPE
Rope sewn along one or more edges of a sail to strengthen it and take some of
the stress of the cloth when it is stretched tightly.
BOOKMATCH
A term in veneering, where successive pieces of veneer from a flitch are
arranged side by side. A properly done bookmatch will resemble a mirror
image of the opposite side.
BOOM
The pivoting horizontal "pole" attached to the aft side of the mast to control
the foot of the sail.
BOOMKIN
A spar projecting from the stern to which is attached a backstay or sheet.
BOOT TOP
A panted line, just above the waterline.
BOTTOM SHAPE
As it affects performance in a planing boat. Maximum speed will be achieved
when the bottom of the boat that forms the planing surface is flat. When the
planing surface is a vee, the boat will have a softer ride but less potential
speed, and will take longer to come up on a plane. A "flat bottom" makes a
better "drag" boat, a deep vee will be a better rough water boat.
BOW (as in bow-wow, not bow tie)
The front of the boat. "I am going to stand in the bow so I can watch the
porpoises".
BOWSPRIT
A tapered pole extending forward of the bow of a sailboat to which the
forestay fastens. The purpose being to increase the amount of sail area
without raising the center of effort.
BREASTHOOK
A knee which mounts atop the stem, to which the sheers attach.
BRIGHT WORK
A term used to describe wood that is finished natural, using varnish or other
clear coating.
BROADSEAM
A seam in a sail, in which the edges of neighboring panels are cut in a convex
curve, so that when sewn together the panels force fullness into the sail.
BULBOUS FOREFOOT
A convex entry at the keel/stem junction (as opposed to a sharp vee)
incorporated to soften the ride. When used in conjunction with a reverse curve
76
at the chine, it usually makes sheet materials impractical requiring other
planking methods in the forward section.
BULKHEAD
A vertical, athwartship partition, most often serving as a set-up member or
frame.
BULWARK
An extension of the planking above the deck to form a rail.
BURGEE
A triangular shaped flag denoting the yacht club to which the owner belongs.
BUTT
Buttock. Used for developing the lines of a boat. Used only for lofting the
lines to full size; not required when patterns are supplied.
C
CAMBER
Athwartship curve of the vessel's deck or cabin top. Curve. Sail term: The
fore and aft curvature of a sail in relation to its chord.
CAT RIG
See SAILBOAT RIGS.
CARLING
A longitudinal structural member at the cockpit perimeter supporting the
inboard side of the side deck. (See COAMING)
CARVEL PLANKING
Solid wood planks, butted together, fastened to the frames, with a flexible
caulking between the planks. Should not be fiberglassed.
CATAMARAN
A vessel with two parallel hulls.
CAVITATION
Essentially, to suck air. This term is primarily used in conjunction with
propellers and rudders. When cavitating, the propeller will speed up, but
power is lost; the rudder may lose steering action. Cavitation most often
occurs when turning. Both result from a loss of a constant solid water flow.
Power catamarans usually require deflectors when a single motor is used, to
direct a flow of water to the propeller. Webster's Dictionary: "the formation of
partial vacuums in a flowing liquid as a result of a separation of its parts". i.e.
aeration of the liquid.
CENTERBOARD
A pivoting "keel" that retracts into a case inside a sailboat. Used to prevent
leeway.
CENTERBOARD LIFT
A line or cable for raising and lowering the centerboard on a sailboat.
77
CENTER OF EFFORT (CE)(Sail)
The fore and aft and up and down point on a sail at which the pressure of the
wind is concentrated. The geometric center of the sail. The higher CE, the
more leverage the wind has to heel the boat. When there is more than one sail,
CE's will be given on the drawing for each sail plus a combined CE. On a
triangle, the CE is the point at which the lines bisecting each angle cross. The
location of the CE fore and aft, affects the way the boat turns into the wind.
(See LEE and WEATHER HELM)
CENTER OF LATERAL RESISTANCE (CLR)
The geometric center or pivot point of the underwater hull profile.
CHAINPLATE
A metal strap to which shrouds or fittings are attached.
CHECKING (in wood)
Longitudinal separation of the fibers in wood that do not go through the
whole cross section. Checks result from tension stresses during the drying
process.
CHINE (Chine log)
The junction of the side and bottom planking or the member backing this
junction.
DOUBLE CHINE - Having an additional planking junction between the chine
and the sheer, giving the hull a more rounded look.
HARD CHINE- Having a distinct bottom/side planking junction as opposed
to a rounded curve.
MULTI-CHINE - Having one or more additional planking junctions between
the chine and the sheer.
CLEW
The lower, aft corner of a fore-and-aft sail, where the leech meets the foot.
CHORD
A straight line between the luff and leech of a sail.
CLINKER - See PLANKING METHODS-WOOD: Clinker
CLIPPER BOW
A bow where the stem has a forward curve and sides have a lot of flair. Also
called a schooner bow.
COCKPIT
"In small decked vessels, a sunken space toward the stern used by the
helmsman." ...Webster's New World Dictionary.
More commonly, in a boat, this refers to the outside working or seating area
below the sheer. Bow riders have a forward cockpit. On a center console, the
inside area could be called a cockpit, but this term is more often used to
define a more limited area.
CROSSCUT
Sails in which the panels of cloth run perpendicular to the leech.
CLUB-FOOTED JIB
A jib with a boom or "club" on the foot of the sail.
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COAMING
A non-structural longitudinal member at the cockpit perimeter; a decorative
piece fastened to the carling, usually protruding above the side deck to
prevent water from entering the cockpit.
CRINGLE
A metal ring or grommet around a hole in the sail for reinforcement.
CRUISER
(Power boat) A boat with certain minimum appurtenances for living afloat.
These are sleeping accommodations, cooking facilities, a toilet, some
lounging space, and fuel and water tanks. The terms sedan, express, and day
are loose categories meant to place emphasis on certain capabilities. A sedan
cruiser has more glass and more lounging area,express is faster, and a day
cruiser has minimal accommodations and usually only practical for limited
overnight stays.
CUNNINGHAM
A line device or cringle located several inches above the tack of the sail; used
with a downhaul to control the tension along the luff and hence the shape of
the sail. Primarily used in competition craft.
CUTTER RIG
See SAILBOAT RIGS.
D
DAGGERBOARD
A blade shaped centerboard that is lifted out of a case when raised. Usually
only suitable for small boats.
DEAD-RISE
Looking at the hull in cross section, the angle the bottom rises from a
horizontal.
DEEP VEE
A hard chine power boat having a 15 degree or more angle deadrise at the
transom.
DISPLACEMENT HULL
A hull that will not exceed a fixed speed which increases with the length of
the hull. Additional power will only allow a hull to maintain hull speed
against a head wind or under load. (See PLANING HULL)
DORY
The traditional dory is a small, flat-bottomed fishing boat with high flaring
sides, and considerable sheer. The commercial fishing dories of New England
were stacked on a larger boat and transported to the Grand Banks where they
were off-loaded with a fisherman, and later retrieved. The boats were noted
for their sea worthiness. The term “dory” appears to have come from an
Indian term for a dugout. Over the years the dory has evolved to encompass
79
various types of boats, usually characterized by flat bottoms and flaring sides.
Some of the “improvements” of previous models have made them hard to
recognize as dories. The “Pacific Dory” has a flat bottom, flaring sides, a
wide transom and is capable of planing. The following designs are classified
as dories: DORY, LUCKY PIERRE, BIG/LITTLE/WEE HUNK, HUNKY
DORY, and ALPHA 2.
DOUBLE HEADSAIL RIG
Two sails forward of the mast as in a cutter.
DAVITS
Curved uprights projecting over the side of larger boats for suspending, or
raising and lowering a smaller boat.
DRAFT
The depth of water a boat can travel over without hitting the bottom.
DRY ROT
A fungous decay causing seasoned lumber to become brittle and crumble to
powder. Dry rot needs extended periods of moisture (fresh water), oxygen,
and dry rot spores to thrive.
E
F
FAIRING
The process of beveling the stem, chine, sheers, keel, and frames so that the
planking will have flat surfaces to glue and fasten to. A “fair” hull is one with
no dips or bumps in the longitudinal lines of the hull. Fairness is checked by
sighting down the longitudinal lines. (See BOATBUILDING
METHODS/Plywood for more information.)
FIDDLE
A frame or railing on a boat's table to keep dishes, etc. from falling off in
rough weather. Fiddles are frequently left open at the corners for drainage.
FILL
The thread that runs across sail cloth from edge to edge.
FILLET/FILLETING
A fillet is a cove shape made with putty on an inside corner. The term is most
often used in reference to Stitch-N-Glue boat building. A fillet is made with
activated epoxy resin, thickened with various fillers, to a putty consistency.
The putty is "globbed" into place and smoothed with a rounded tool. (See
Boatbuilding Methods: Stitch-N-Glue.)
FLOOR TIMBER
A scab that joins two-part bottom frames at the centerline.
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FLITCH
A log sawn on two or more sides from which veneer is sliced.
F.O.B.
This is a shipping term, not a boat term. It means “freight on board”, or that
the shipper will put the freight on a truck, but the consignee pays shipping
charges.
FOOT
The lowest edge of a sail.
F.P.
"Forward perpendicular". This is an naval architecture term. It will usually be
seen on the #2 plan sheet, where the various stations are shown. This
represents the end of the stem, or the last station from the transom.
FORETRIANGLE
The area forward of the forward mast in which sails can be set. A sail that fills
that area.
FRAMES
Athartship members (ribs) of the hull framework. Frames can be divided into
two categories: sawn or bent frames. Sawn frames are assembled from
separate pieces, either lapped or gusseted together to form the station contour.
Bent frames are bent around a form or into a hull using one or more layers of
solid wood. No Glen-L designs use bent frames. Frames can be lapped with a
piece of plywood filling the interior frame space to form a bulkhead.
SHAFT HORSEPOWER (SHP)
FREEBOARD
The distance from the water to the sheer.
G
GAFF RIG
See SAILBOAT RIGS.
GARVEY HULL
A hard chine hull in which the chines do not join on the stem centerline. (See
PLAY PEN design)
GARBOARD
The plank adjoining the keel. Also called garboard strake. Garboard drain
plugs are installed in the at the lowest point along the garboard.
GEL COAT
A semi-thixotropic, air-inhibited, usually pigmented resin that is applied to a
waxed mold surface over which subsequent fiberglass layup is made. When
the piece is removed from the mold, the gel coat becomes the outside finish.
GENOA
A large, low cut, jib that overlaps the mast.
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GOOSENECK
A fitting used to attach the boom to the mast and which permits the boom to
pivot. Also, the body part between the head and the body of a goose; most
often used for making gravy.
GUDGEONS AND PINTLES
Hardware used to connect an "outboard" rudder to the back of the boat. The
pintle has a pin (male part), The gudgeon accepts the pintle (female part).
There are different styles, sometimes with the pintle on the rudder, sometimes
on the transom.
GUNKHOLING
Cruising in shoal water or overnighting in small coves.
GUNWALE (GUNNEL)
Originally applied to the bulkheads that supported a ship's guns; the upper
edge of the side of a boat. Is frequently used interchangeably with SHEER.
GUSSET
A scab that joins the side and bottom frame members at the chine.
H
HALYARD
A line used to raise and lower the sails. External halyards are located outside
the mast; internal halyards pass through the inside of a hollow mast.
HANK
A metal or nylon clip used to hold the luff of a headsail or staysail to the
forestay.
HARDWOOD
A description applied to woods from deciduous broad-leafed trees
(Angiosperms). The term has no reference to the actual hardness of the wood.
Hardwoods have traditionally been used in making such products as furniture,
strip flooring, interior trim, boats, cutting boards, novelties, etc. Wood used in
making these products is typically in the form of relatively small and defectfree pieces which are subsequently glued together; it is also generally more
costly than wood from softwood species. Because of these factors, hardwood
lumber is manufactured to non-standardized length and width dimensions
which will minimize trim waste. For the same reasons, such lumber is
measured relatively accurately, with rounding of measurements in small
increments.
HARPIN
A sheer sawn to shape as opposed to being bent to shape around the frames.
The harpin may be only a portion of the sheer (usually the forward section) or
the complete sheer. Glen-L supplies a pattern or dimensions for the harpin.
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HEAD (Re: Sail)
The top edge of a four sided sail or the top corner of a triangular sail.
HEARTWOOD
The wood making up the center part of the tree, beneath the sapwood. Cells of
heartwood no longer participate in the life processes of the tree. Heartwood
may contain phenolic compounds, gums, resins, and other materials that
usually make it darker and more decay resistant than sapwood.
HOOK (re. boat bottom)
This is one of two conditions in the bottom of a planing boat that can lead to
performance problems. When the boat is rightside-up, the bottom curves up
from the transom; is "dished" forward of the transom. This "hook" will drive
the bow down, reducing performance. Can also lead to the bow "bobbing" up
and down. The aft section of the hull, seen in profile, should be straight. See
ROCKER
HOUND
A wraparound mast fitting used to secure the forestay and other fittings to the
mast on a jibhead rig.
HOUSE
Apart from the obvious meaning, this is a term applied to the cabin on a boat.
I
I/O (Inboard/outboard)
A propulsion system that uses an inboard motor, mounted at the transom, with
a propeller assembly, similar to the bottom of an outboard, mounted on the
outside of the transom, bolting to the motor with the transom sandwiched
between. Also called a stern drive. In most designs it can be used optionally to
a v-drive, or jet drive.
IN-LINE INBOARD ENGINES
A centrally mounted inboard, with the prop shaft usually coming directly off
the engine or transmission; in-line with the engine.
J
JIB
A triangular sail forward of the forward mast, usually attached to the forestay.
JIBHEAD RIG
In a jibhead rig, the forestay does not attach to the masthead, but at a point
lower on the mast where the top of the jib meets the mast.
83
K
KEEL
The junction of the bottom planking along the centerline of the boat or the
inside member backing this junction aft of the stem. The term also refers to an
outer longitudinal appendage on the centerline. The purpose of this member is
to keep the wind from blowing the boat sideways from its forward course.
The keel also serves to protect the prop on a power boat.
KERF
The cut made by a saw blade.
FIXED KEEL - Usually associated with a sailboat, this is simply a nonretractable keel. A fixed keel trailerable boat requires a special trailer and
special launch facilities.
KETCH RIG
See SAILBOAT RIGS.
KILN
In lumber drying, a kiln is a room or building where temperature, moisture,
and the amount of air circulating are controlled to dry wood.
KILN DRIED
(KD) Freshly cut green lumber may be sold green or first dried in a kiln to
accelerate removal of the moisture in the wood. Drying wood in a kiln is an
art to ensure that the wood dries evenly to retain its strength and aesthetic
properties. Different species dry at different rates. Kiln dried lumber
commands a higher price than green or air dried lumber.
KNEE
A brace or reinforcement between two joining planes. On our boat designs,
knees are used to reinforce the junction between the bottom and the transom,
between the sides and transom.
KNOT SPEED CONVERSION
To convert to miles per hour, use the following formula: speed in mph =
speed in knots divided by .87.
L
LAPSTRAKE - See PLANKING METHODS-WOOD: Clinker
LATEEN RIG
See SAILBOAT RIGS.
LAUNCH
A large, open motorboat.
LEAD
The distance between the CLR and the CE of a vessel. (Pronounced "leed".)
84
LEATHERS
Pieces of leather that are stitched and/or tacked around an oar to protect it
where it rides in the oar lock. They usually have a stop or "button" to keep the
oar from sliding out of the oar lock when left unattended. The button can be a
thin strip of leather or knotted twine that is tacked and/or glued in place on
top of the leather at the handle end of the oar.
LEEBOARD
These are paddle-shaped boards installed on the outside of the gunwale on
each side of a sailboat. The board on the "lee" side is lowered to prevent
leeway. Single leeboards are used as a way of converting a non-sailing boat to
sail without the necessity of cutting holes in the hull or installing permanent
outside keels.
LEECH
The aft most or back edge of a sail.
LEE HELM
A condition in which the tiller must be held toward the downwind side of a
sailing vessel in order to maintain course. An undesirable condition for safety
and hydrodynamic reasons. (See WEATHER HELM)
LEEWARD
On a hull, the side away from the direction of the wind; the protected side. In
the days of sailing ship warfare, you wanted your opponent in your lee (to
leeward) which took his wind and gave you the advantage.
LEEWAY
To drift from course in the direction of the wind.
LIFT STRAKES
Longitudinal members running fore and aft on the outside bottom of the hull.
The purpose is to stabilize and create lift on a deep vee hull when under
power.
LIMBER
A hole or channel that allows water to drain to the lowest point in the hull.
Limbers can be through frames, usually at the keel or other longitudinal, can
also be cut through longitudinals.
LOFTING
Lofting is the process of drawing the hull lines full size from the designer’s
scale drawings. The intersections of the contours of various horizontal and
vertical sections are measured from an imaginary “base line” using an
architect’s scale. These junctions are then laid out, point by point, in their full
size. Because it is difficult to take accurate dimensions from a small drawing,
it is necessary to adjust these lines to assure that they are “fair”. A listing of
these points is called a table of offsets. It takes a lot of space to loft. This,
along with the difficulty, makes it a daunting task and a real drag to those
builders who just want to get at the “wood”. All GLEN-L designs have full
size patterns... no lofting required.
85
LONGITUDINALS
Those hull framing members that run the length of the boat (i.e. chine, keel,
sheer, battens).
LUFF
The front or leading edge of a sail.
LUMBER
Lumber is simply solid wood that has been sawn to a particular size.
Traditionally produced from very large diameter logs, lumber is now often
made from logs as small as 8 to 12 inches (20 to 30 cm) in diameter. A variety
of equipment is used to produce lumber. Newer mills that process softwood
logs combine scanners, computers to calculate optimum sawing sequences,
and high speed, thin-kerf saws designed to obtain maximum lumber yield.
The newest "lumber" products are not lumber at all in the traditional sense,
but composite products created from veneers, thin flakes, or other materials
such as plastic. Such products have more uniform strength properties than
solid-sawn wood and can be made to large sizes even when using small trees
as raw material. Lumber is always measured, bought, and sold based on
nominal, rather than actual, sizes. Measurements are affected by moisture
content and, in the case of hardwoods, by whether boards are surfaced or
unsurfaced.
M
MASTHEAD RIG
The forestay attaches to the masthead.
MILL CHIPS
After debarking and before a sawmill cuts lumber, it saws off the outer four
slabs to reduce the log to a square or rectangular shape. The slabs are mostly
the sapwood portion of the log and may be resawn to save low quality boards
(Pallet boards), or the slabs are sent to the chipper. Most chippers pass their
chips over a two-deck vibrating screen to separate the "overs," "accepts" and
"fines." The "overs" are re-circulated through the chipper again and the "fines
and sawdust" are blown into their own pile. The chip "accepts" are blown into
a pile for processing into wood products.
MIZZEN
A sail aft of the aft mast on a multi-masted boat.
MOISTURE CONTENT
Weight of the water within a piece of lumber measured as a percentage of the
weight of the dry wood. Typical moisture content for kiln dried construction
lumber is 15%. Wood absorbs or gives off moisture depending on the ambient
moisture in the air. The percentage of wood that is not moisture is referred to
as "dry solids," that is, dried construction lumber would be 85% dry solids.
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Product standards for lumber manufactured in the United States are developed
under the jurisdiction of the U.S. Department of Commerce and administered
by the American Lumber Standards Committee (ALSC). Members of the
ALSC are representatives of various softwood lumber trade associations. As
specified in the ALSC American Softwood Lumber Standard, softwood
lumber is sold as "dry" if at a moisture content of 19% or less. Most
hardwoods manufactured in the United States are produced to standards
developed by the National Hardwood Lumber Association (NHLA). No
single moisture content, however, is specified for hardwoods because the uses
are more specialized. The moisture content must be specified by the buyer
and agreed to by the seller; a 10% moisture content specification is common.
MONOCOQUE
A structure in which the outer covering (planking) carries all or a major part
of the stresses.
MONOHEDRON
From the Greek word hedron (a geometrical figure having any number of
planes). The theoretical ideal shape for planing over the water surface is one
of constant (mono) section. Thus monohedron describes a hull that has a
running surface of constant section; in practice the sections may not be
exactly the same.
MOTORSAILER
A combination of sailboat and motorboat; a compromise, neither the ideal
sailboat or powerboat.
MOTOR WELL
When an outboard motor is mounted on the transom, a motor well is a boxlike structure in front of the motor that catches water that may wash over the
outboard cut-out and allows it to drain over the transom and not into the boat.
When a motor is mounted in front of the transom, motor well refers to a boxlike structure that surrounds a hole in the bottom of the boat. The well usually
allows the motor to tilt up, frequently through a cut-out in the transom. This
type of motor well allows the handling of nets or fishing lines over the
transom without having to work around the motor.
N
O
OAR LOCKS (ROWLOCK
A device for holding an oar in place when rowing or steering. The majority of
commercially available oar locks consist of a "socket" and a "horn". The horn
can be U-shaped or round. In the past various other systems of holding the oar
have been used. See THOLE.
87
OFFSETS
Measurements supplied by a designer for the builder in order to lay down the
lines of the hull. Glen-L patterns eliminate the need for a table of offsets.
OUTHAUL
The line used to pull a sail toward the end of the boom, or the grommet at the
corner of the sail to which that line attaches.
P
P&S
Port and starboard (both sides). The port is the left side of a boat looking
forward, starboard on the right.
PAINTER
A line made fast to the bow of a small boat. This rope has nothing to do with
painting but is used to "snare" a cleat on shore or alongside another boat. The
French word "pantiere" means a noose.
PEAK
The upper aft corner of a gaff-headed sail.
PENANT
A pointed flag.
"PINKIE"
Sometimes applied to a sharp sterned skiff, but more properly to a stern
projection of the gunwales to a sharp point above a narrow transom, originally
to carry a coat of arms or other decoration.
PITCH
Plunging forward, the rising and falling of the bow and stern of a boat; a fore
and aft motion as opposed to roll.
PITCH (Propeller)
The angle at which a propeller cuts through the water. Pitch is measured as
the distance a propeller would move forward with a single rotation, if there
was no resistance. In our Inboard Hardware catalog a propeller might be
described as a 12 x 15 x lh x 1, 3-blade propeller. (12" dia., 15" pitch, left
hand rotation, 1" shaft)
PLANING HULL
A hull that lifts and skims the surface of the water causing the stern wake to
break clean from the transom. In practical terms, a planing hull has a speed
potential limited only by weight and power. (See DISPLACEMENT HULL)
PLANKING METHODS-WOOD
CARVEL - The planks are laid close together on their edges, attached to the
ribs to form a smooth exterior.
CLINKER - The edges of the planks are overlapped to form an irregular
exterior, much like siding on a house. Also called lapstrake.
SHEET PLYWOOD is the simplest wood planking method.
88
STITCH-N-GLUE is a simplified sheet plywood method which eliminates the
use of stems and chines, thus avoiding the "fairing" required in conventional
plywood construction.
DOUBLE (MULTI-) DIAGONAL planking is more involved; used when
compound shapes are incorporated into the hull (i.e.“bulbous forefoot”,
“reverse curve”, “round bilge”). Uses strips of plywood or solid wood veneers
laid over the hull in layers of opposite diagonals, glued together, most often
with epoxy.
COLD-MOLDED is a term that can be used interchangeably with above.
STRIP utilizes thin strips of wood, edge glued together. One method uses the
wood as a “core” with fiberglass on both sides (see STRIPPER, GLEN-L 11
designs). The more common method uses strips fitted, glued, and fastened on
edge with optional fiberglass on the outside only (See WHITEHALL,
HARBOR MASTER, AMIGO designs).
PLYWOOD
Sheets of wood consisting of three or more sheets of wood glued and bonded
by heat and pressure with the grain of each sheet running perpendicular to
adjacent layers.
PRAM
A dinghy with a transom at the bow and stern.
PRISMATIC COEFFICIENT
The ratio the hull displacement bears to the displacement of a shape which is
the same length as the waterline length of the boat and has the same constant
cross-sectional area as the greatest cross-sectional area the hull.
Q
QUARTERING SEAS
Waves coming toward the aft corner (quarter) of a boat.
QUARTER-SAWN
A method of cutting lumber where the annual rings are relatively
perpendicular to the face of the board. Quarter-sawn lumber tends to be more
dimensionally stable than other forms of lumber, such as plain-sawn.
R
RABBET
A carpentry term. A cut or groove along or near the edge of a piece of wood
that allows another piece to fit into it to form a joint. A dado.
RAKE
The fore or aft angle of the mast from perpendicular.
89
REEVE
To thread a line through a block, fairlead or hole of any kind.
RESORCINOL GLUE
An adhesive made from resorcinol resin and formaldehyde.
REVERSE CURVE
A concave curve in the bottom at the chine. The usual purpose is to deflect
spray.
RIGHTING MOMENT
A measure of the tendency of a sailboat to return to upright when heeled. It is
a product of the distance between the centers of gravity and buoyancy and the
total weight of the boat. A measure of stability.
ROCKER (re. boat bottom)
This is one of two conditions in the bottom of a planing boat that can lead to
performance problems. When the boat is rightside-up, the bottom curves up
toward the transom. This will lead to "porpoising". A similar effect will result
from "rounding" the trailing bottom edge at the transom. In the extreme
and/or at high speed, this can be dangerous. The cause is usually caused by
allowing the transom to drop during construction. The aft section of the hull,
seen in profile, should be straight. See HOOK
ROLL
Side to side motion on a boat as opposed to pitch, the fore and aft movement.
ROTARY-CUT VENEER
Veneer cut in a lathe which rotates a log chucked in the center against a knife.
This method of peeling is used to produce decorative veneers and is a
common method of manufacturing veneers for plywood.
ROWLOCK
See OAR LOCKS and THOLE.
RUDDER
Device that steers the boat.
RUNNING RIGGING
Sheets, halyards, topping lifts, etc. by which the sails are raised, trimmed or
controlled.
S
SAE
The Society of Automotive Engineers is a professional organization and
standards body for the engineering of powered vehicles of all kinds - cars,
trucks, boats, aircraft and more. The most familiar to the average American
consumer are its standards for measuring automobile power in units of
horsepower (SAE Net Horsepower).
90
SAIL, PARTS OF:
ROACH - The part of the sail that extends beyond the straight line between
the head and the clew. Roach is sometimes also applied to the foot.
STARCUT - Sails in which the panels of cloth radiate from all corners, along
the warp.
TABLING - The folded hem sewn to the edges of a sail to reinforce them.
TACK - The lower, forward corner of a sail.
VERTICAL CUT - Sails in which the panels of cloth run vertically or parallel
to the luff.
WARP - The threads that run lengthwise in a woven sailcloth across the fill
threads.
SAIL, SOCK-TYPE
A sail with a longitudinal sleeve sewn into the luff edge. This "sock" is meant
to slide over the mast. This type of sail is used on a free-standing mast and is
held on the mast with a downhaul line or is attached to the gooseneck. (See
the EIGHT BALL, DINKY, and FOAMEE.)
SAILBOAT RIGS:
CAT RIG - Having a single mast and a single sail.
CUTTER RIG - One mast, one sail aft of mast, two or more forward. Similar
to a sloop except that there are at least two triangular sails forward of the
mast. The mast is stepped farther aft than a sloop, creating a larger
foretriangle. Because of the large area, multiple, smaller sails, are easier to
handle than one large sail. The rig allows more versatility than a single large
sail but is less powerful in light airs.
GAFF RIG - Has a lower boom and an upper "mast" or boom that attaches to
the mainmast. The sail is a quadrangle. This is an older style rig currently
used to give a boat a traditional look. Does not come to windward as well as
"modern" rigs, requires more hardware, including separate halyards, one for
the main and one for the upper boom. Generally less efficient for top
performance, but does have less windage aloft when sail is reduced.
JIBHEAD RIG - In a jibhead rig the forestay does not attach to the masthead
but at a point lower on the mast where the top of the jib meets the mast.
KETCH RIG Two masts, three sails. The ketch is very similar to the yawl.
Both rigs have a main, foretriangle, and a mizzen. The ketch generally has its
mizzenmast (aft mast) farther forward than a yawl allowing for a larger
mizzen. There are various definitions of what constitutes the difference
between the two rigs: That a ketch's mizzen must be at least 2/3 of her main,
that a yawl's mizzenmast is less than half the height of her mainmast. At the
extremes, these rigs are easy to distinguish but there is a mid "gray" area
where identification is open to interpretation.
LATEEN RIG - One mast, one sail, two booms. (See BUCKBOARD design)
SCHOONER RIG - Two or more masts, rigged fore and aft.
SLOOP RIG One mast, two sails. Has a main aft of the mast and a triangular
sail (jib) forward of the mast, usually attached to the forestay. A sloop is more
91
maneuverable than a cat rig, and more versatile for reducing sail in a blow.
SPRIT RIG - A sprit is a boom that extends upward from the mast to the
topmost corner of a quadrangle sail. A sprit rig allows more sail area on a
short mast. (See SNEAKBOX design)
SAPWOOD
The new wood in a tree that lies between the bark and the Heartwood.
Sapwood is usually lighter in color and becomes heartwood as the tree ages.
In a growing tree, sapwood contains living cells and reserve materials such as
starch. Under most conditions the sapwood is paler in color and more
susceptible to decay than heartwood.
SANDWICH CORE
A “one-off” fiberglass construction method that uses an inner core that is
temporarily fastened to a form, covered with fiberglass laminates, removed
from the form, and fiberglass laminates applied to the inside. See Building
Methods/Fiberglass.
SAWN FRAMES
Frames can be divided into two categories: sawn or bent frames. Sawn frames
are assembled from separate pieces, either lapped or gusseted together to form
the station contour. Bent frames are bent around a form or into a hull using
one or more layers of solid wood.
SCANTLINGS
The dimensions of a building material, especially the width and thickness of a
timber. The dimensions of the structural parts of a vessel.
SCHOONER RIG
See SAILBOAT RIGS.
SHAFT HORSEPOWER (SHP)
A theoretical measurement of horsepower at the propeller. If the BRAKE
HORSEPOWER is known (normally the rated horsepower), multiply by .7
for the approximate constant SHP.
SHARPIE
"Sharp"-bowed, flat bottomed skiff. A term usually applied to flat bottomed
sailing skiffs over 20' in length. All types of rigs were traditionally used.
SHEER (Sheer clamp)
The junction of the side and deck or the member backing this junction. A boat
with a "lot of sheer" is higher at the bow and stern than the center when
viewed in profile; with little sheer, the sheer arc will be closer to a straight
line (a hog sheer).
SHOAL
Shallow
SHP - See SHAFT HORSEPOWER
SHROUDS
The stays that support the mast at the sides.
92
SKEG
A longitudinal appendage on a boat, on the outside, at the centerline,
providing directional stability and/or protection for the prop and rudder.
SLOOP RIG
See SAILBOAT RIGS.
SOFTWOODS
Generally lumber from a conifer such as pine or cedar. The name softwood
does not refer to the density of the wood. There are some hardwoods, such as
Balsa, which are softer than some softwoods, like Southern Yellow Pine.
SOLE
Cabin or cockpit floor.
SPAR
Same as mast; usually applied to aluminum masts.
SPEED-LENGTH RATIO
A formula used to compare potential speeds of displacement or semidisplacement hulls; not used for full planing hulls. Few hulls reach their
theoretical speed-length ratio. Formula: Speed in knots=1.34 x square root of
the waterline length.
SPILING
A method of fitting longitudinal planking junctions.
SPINNAKER
A large triangular racing sail located forward of the jib, attached to the mast
and a spinnaker pole (boom). The sail is used when running with the wind.
The spinnaker pole allows the foot of the sail to be held open to catch more
wind. There are variations of the spinnaker that do not use a pole.
SPLIT (in wood)
Separation of the fibers in a piece of wood from face to face.
SPONSON
A projection or addition to the side or bottom of the boat to help stabilize or
provide lift. (See the TINY TITAN, SUPER SPARTAN, and PICKLEFORK.)
SPRIT RIG
See SAILBOAT RIGS.
STATION
One of a series of equally spaced transverse "slices" of the hull, as shown in
the lines drawing of the plans. When building a boat, there may or may not be
frames or bulkheads at all or any of the stations. Also referred to as section.
STEM
The junction of the planking at the forward end of a typical hull. The member
to which the planking attaches at this junction.
STRAKES
A single line of planking extending from bow to stern.
93
STRIP PLANKING
A planking method that uses strips of wood installed longitudinally and edgeglued and fastened together. Planks most often are made with "bead" and
"cove" edges (somewhat like male and female "ball and socket") to eliminate
fitting the plank edges.
STRONGBACK
A longitudinal batten along the decking centerline.
T
TABLE OF OFFSETS - See Offsets
TABERNACLE
The housing on a sailboat deck that supports the heel of the mainmast, with a
hinged fitting so that the mast can pivot and be lowered easily when passing
under bridges and high tension wires. Pivoting mast step.
TABLOID CRUISER
A small cruiser.
THOLE
One of a pair of wood or metal pins set vertically in the gunwale of a boat that
serve as oar locks.
TILLER
A bar or handle for turning a boat rudder. The tiller for an external rudder on
small sailboats is most often operated by hand. Tillers for underwater rudders
are usually short and are operated by some sort of mechanical device (steering
wheel).
TOPPING LIFT
An adjustable line from the mast to support the aft end of the boom and to
support in when the mainsail is lowered or is being reefed.
TRANSOM
The member forming the aft (stern) end of the boat.
TUMBLEHOME
The top is closer to the centerline than the bottom. Can be applied to the hull
or cabin.
U
V
VEE BOTTOM
Not flat athwartships. In a flat bottom boat (SISSY DO), the chines meet the
keel at the bottom of the stem. In a vee bottom boat, the keel fastens to the
bottom of the stem and chines at a point above this junction, the higher, the
94
more the vee. A “flat bottom” ski boat has a vee bottom, the bottom is flat at
the transom. (See DEEP VEE, BOTTOM SHAPE)
V-DRIVE
A gear box that reverses the direction of the drive train to allow the use of a
standard prop shaft and prop with a rear mounted motor. See drawing below.
from Glen-l.com site
VENEER
Thin sheet of wood sliced, sawed, or rotary-cut from a log or a flitch.
Rotary-cut Veneer - Veneer cut in a lathe which rotates a log or bolt, chucked
in the center, against a knife.
Sawed Veneer - Veneer produced by sawing.
Sliced Veneer - Veneer that is sliced off a log, bolt, or flitch with a knife.
W
WANE
A lumber defect referring to the absence of wood or the presence of bark
along an edge or corner.
WARP
Any variation from a true and plane surface. It includes bow, cup and twist
and is often caused by irregular seasoning.
95
WATERLINE LENGTH-Significance:
One of the factors used to determine the speed potential of a displacement
boat. The longer, the greater the speed potential. The overall length is
irrelevant; overhangs fore and aft do not increase “hull speed” potential.
WEATHER HELM
A condition in which the tiller must be held toward the windward side of a
sailing vessel in order to maintain course. A slight amount (3 to 7 degrees) is
desirable. (See LEE HELM)
WINDWARD
Toward the direction from which the wind is coming. The windward side of a
hull receives the force of the wind. The leeward side is the "calm& or
protected side.
WIND SPEED:
Near gale: Wind speed of 28 to 33 knots.
Gale: Wind speed of 34 to 40 knots.
Strong gale: Wind speed of 41 to 47 knots.
Storm: Wind speeds of 48 to 55 knots.
Greater wind speeds: Stay home.
WORLD CRUISING SAILBOAT - See CRUISING
X
Y
YARN
Fibers that are twisted together to form a rope.
YAW
A vessel which will not hold a steady course, but swings from side to side of
it, is said to yaw.
Z
96
When you buy dimensional lumber at your local building center, the
actual sizes of the boards are different than the nominal size. The
drying process and planing both reduce the actual size of the
finished boards you buy. Keep this in mind when you purchase the
lumber for your boat or other building projects.
Nominal Vs. Actual Lumber Dimensions
Nominal
Actual
Actual Metric
1” x 2”
3/4” x 1-1/2”
19 x 38 mm
1” x 3”
3/4” x 2-1/2”
19 x 64 mm
1” x 4”
3/4” x 3-1/2”
19 x 89 mm
1” x 5”
3/4” x 4-1/2”
19 x 114 mm
1” x 6”
3/4” x 5-1/2”
19 x 140 mm
1” x 7”
3/4” x 6-1/4”
19 x 159 mm
1” x 8”
3/4” x 7-1/4”
19 x 184 mm
1” x 10”
3/4” x 9-1/4”
19 x 235 mm
1” x 12”
3/4” x 11-1/4”
19 x 286 mm
1-1/4” x 4”
1” x 3-1/2”
25 x 89 mm
1-1/4” x 6”
1” x 5-1/2”
25 x 140 mm
1-1/4” x 8”
1” x 7-1/4”
25 x 184 mm
1-1/4” x 10”
1” x 9-1/4”
25 x 235 mm
1-1/4” x 12”
1” x 11-1/4”
25 x 286 mm
97
Nominal Vs. Actual Lumber Dimensions
1-1/2” x 4”
1-1/4” x 3-1/2”
32 x 89 mm
1-1/2” x 6”
1-1/4” x 5-1/2”
32 x 140 mm
1-1/2” x 8”
1-1/4” x 7-1/4”
32 x 184 mm
1-1/2” x 10”
1-1/4” x 9-1/4”
32 x 235 mm
2” x 4”
1-1/2” x 3-1/2”
38 x 89 mm
2” x 6”
1-1/2” x 5-1/2”
38 x 140 mm
2” x 8”
1-1/2” x 7-1/4”
38 x 184 mm
2” x 10”
1-1/2” x 9-1/4”
38 x 235 mm
2” x 12”
1-1/2” x 11-1/4”
38 x 286 mm
3” x 6”
2-1/2” x 5-1/2”
64 x 140 mm
4” x 4”
3-1/2” x 3-1/2”
89 x 89 mm
4” x 6”
3-1/2” x 5-1/2”
89 x 140 mm
6” x 6”
5-1/2” x 5-1/2”
140 x 140 mm
98
Decimal Equivalents
99

Building a Wooden Boat

Transcription

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