Luxury Leisure LiFesTyle

LUXURY LEISURE LIFESTYLE
Flairs for everyday luxury.
Sartoria Lazzarin, Detail - Photo by Emiliano Di Mauro
LLL
Sartoria Lazzarin
“How we turn your dreams into tailormade suit.”
by Giorgia Mauri, photos by Emiliano Di Mauro
LLL
Aldo Lazzarin, the founder, after he graduated at garment
making school Accademia Snob in Rovigo, moved, at the
beginning of fifties, to Milan and there began to work for
Sartoria Comini.
In 1954 he opened his own firm and started his own history.
We met his son, Ermanno Lazzarin, today’s owner of the tailor’s
shop, Sartoria Lazzarin, and of Eral55 shop, both in Corso
Como’s area, in Milan.
“Attending my father’s tailor’s shop and observing my father
at work, I got my passion for style and textile, above all for the
unique pieces, thought and taylormade following the client’s
desire.
The sartorial evolution and the opening of Eral55 Shop in Corso
Como, Milan, which I did in 1976, have been attained with a lot
of time and experience which let us become the unique and
recognaizable benchmark for trendmakers all over.r.
Ermanno Lazzarin - Owner
In the tailor’s shop, deep passion and curiosity drove us to finalize some treatments on tissues or suits and
jackets. Directly on tailored suits, washing and dyeing are made with a fine method: many proofs and a
deep knowledge let us have a stable size and help us to prevent any damages like tissue shrinking or seams
breaking.
Only the deep experience makes this goal possible:
realizing unique taylormade suits in an excellent way.
The achievement of these garments,
suits
and
man-jackets, is
entirely
handmade. We have the chance to
use stuff from our quality stock which
are lost by now or that come from
last century’s ancient looms. Today’s
high-tech looms cut time in the
productive process, taking from the
charm of the slow-productions.
Stuff from ancient looms
“One in a million decorations on tissues inside
our jackets: our clients love this type
of bespoke artworks to wear.”
Realizing a tailor-made suit requires about 30 hours,
keeping out dyeing and finissage steps.
Customising the inside liner is also possible, with
embroideries or paintings made by artists.
During our longlasting story, we have worked stimulating
relationships up with many creative artists, who can
decorate our tissues inspired by the client’s suggestion.
One in a million decorations on tissues inside our jackets:
our clients love this type of bespoke artworks to wear.
Our clients put themselves into our hands and let us drive
them through our “tissues menus”, choosing solutions
close to their feeling; they do this because we can turn
their dreams into garments that talk about them, and this
is why our clothes are unique. Sometimes we realize also
tissues on the client’s request. Colour combinations are
often the result of different inspiration or are the outcome
of a restyle of mixture from the past or from elsewhere.
Painting on jacket made by artists
LLL
We have restyled some old polo players’
jackets (jackets worn during the early
years of the twentieth century) using new
colours, drawing on their original sport
spirit and turning it into today’s creative
power. For years we are working also
with a market far away from our home,
in geographical and cultural terms, in
Tokyo, Japan. We periodically invite our
customers at private shows of our last
creations. That’s perfect to raise orders
from clients who ask about bespoke
Everything we do in the tailor’s
shop really means “luxury”:
creations made by artists
who are completely at the client’s
disposal to propose them
exclusive and personal
garments.
made in Italy, enriched with brand new
details. With this market, which has
distintictive features, we have made
We have been working for years about the concept of luxury,
a creative relationship that inspires us
as outcome of long-time knowledge, handcrafted high quality
continuosly.
and inspiration from the street as an ideas’ lab.”
Sartoria Lazzarin
Sartoria Lazzarin
Via Milazzo. 6
Milano Italy
[email protected]
www.eral55.com
So far, which is in your opinion the most important
feature that next generations must have?
“Passion, that turns our job into a hobby,
in the next future will be always more valued.
I’m sure I’ll win the bet.”
Old sewing machine - Detail
LLL
ermesponti
A local design company who works
globally in luxury retail, luxury marine
and residential projects. “Bespoke interiors can be
the perfect portrait of you”.
by Giorgia Mauri
LLL
Ermes Ponti in person, Paolo and Daniela. By Martino Lombezzi - Contrasto
Talking to Daniela and Paolo Ponti of ermesponti, an
it. He focused the business on custom-made furniture.
Italian company highly specialized in custom made
Of course, he encouraged the craftsmen’s skills, but
furniture for interiors, located in Mantua, Italy.
he also improved them thanks to his own new ideas
of lean production and organization.
L L L - Let’s begin with the firm’s history. When was the
His revolution was silent and quiet - like he is - but it
company established?
produced a radical change in staff and ways of
Daniela Ponti -The very first workshop was set up by
Walter Ponti ( Ermes’s father) in the thirties as a typical
working. Despite the western economic crisis, we are
still here due to his management skills.
family business. It was only an ordinary carpenters’
workshop. After the Second World War the workshop
began to develop very quickly and when Ermes took
Anyway,
over, the business thrived for decades. At that time,
in the sixties, the company worked both for industrial
design and made-to-measure furniture.
Ermes was a very lucky young entrepreneur.
He began to work with one of the most famous
designers in design history, Gio Ponti. After he
graduated in Architecture at the University of Florence
in 2001, Paolo (Ermes’ son) went into the family
business and in a few years he radically changed
I think we can describe
our core business
with two simple words:
bespoke interiors.
LLL
We design each interior with the client in mind.
Actually, we design it together with him.
L L L - Interesting story! It is not so usual hearing about
You can never imagine how a bespoke interior can
a family business which grows from one generation to
improve the quality of your life. The quality of life, of
another. And now - in the middle of this deep crisis of
working. We often ignore it the quality of life. So we
Italian consumer spending, what is Ermesponti’s core
miss one of the most important pleasures of life.
business right now?
Daniela Ponti - We haven’t been really affected by
We simply translate his requirements, his needs and
this crisis till now. Of course we feel the Italian and
also his dreams, into architectural form, space and
European economic situation. Although we are a
local company (we are based in the northern part
of Italy and most Italian GDP comes from there), we
rooms, all of which suit him perfectly.
actually work globally. Our projects are scattered all
Starting with a white sheet of paper, we sketch
around the world!
together his ideas, always bearing in mind location
requirements. Even the site has its own peculiarities.
We design and produce bespoke furnishing for
each site-specific project. There is only a glass door
between our workshop and our office. I must say it,
we have a first class workshop! Just imagine. It’s like
a tailor shop in Naples or in Savile Row in London. As
Louis Kahn used to say that each room knows exactly
what it wants to be. We call it “genius loci”. But, to
be more practical, what we do is to match the client
with the location. We create his own space. That’s all.
soon as you enter, we are able to design and make
the perfect suit for you, your own suit. We think that an
interior is like a bespoke suit and maybe more - it can
visit: http://notes.ermesponti.it/en/2013/11/ermesponti-
be a portrait. Maybe the best portrait of a client. And
presentation-to-ideo-mercer-street-nyc/
it can also be more comfortable than a bespoke suit.
L L L - As we know there are lots of companies in Italy
most famous entrepreneurs of our time too, Steve
specialized in furnishing.. What’s the key feature of
Jobs admitted learning from Leonardo da Vinci and
ermesponti? Why should a client choose you?
Michelangelo to achieve excellence. You have to be
Paolo Ponti - Actually, we are not a simple carpenters’
responsible for all processes.You must be involved from
shop. We are an interior-design firm. We guarantee
the creative phase to the making. Only if you know
the highest quality at the lowest possible cost and in
how things are to be done, can you really design them
the shortest time. That’s what we do for each client.
in a proper way. When Raffaello designed something
We are able to do that because we are in charge of
in his huge workshop, he perfectly knew how his pupils
all the process, end-to-end.
had to make it. One of the worst errors of our western
culture is that we have forgotten that man always
This is the most important lesson we learned from
learns by doing. There’re lots of people who design
the history of the Italian Renaissance. One of the
something without knowing what it’s made of.
Sketches and drawings of the Corneliani Flagship store’s facade in Shanghai, By Martino Lombezzi - Contrasto
LLL
Corneliani Flagship Store - work in progress
There’re lots of
people who design
something without
knowing what it’s
made of.
Corneliani Flagship Store: VIP room in Milan. Photo by Cristiano Cossu. Site works and final realization in comparison (only three working weeks)
L L L - Can you give us some examples for a better
understanding, please?
Paolo Ponti - Of course, we have plenty of examples
and it might be useful to have a look at our case
histories on the ermesponti website (ermesponti.it). But,
anyway, one of them could be the Corneliani flagship
store in Montenapoleone street, Milan. We gave a
Paolo and Daniela Ponti
complete turnkey service to Corneliani. We did the
http://notes.ermesponti.it/en/2014/04/from-design-to-
restoration project of the entire building. As you can
see from the picture below, we made the designs for
the furnishing to integrate with structure and fittings.
This is the cylindrical VIP room; you can see how the
design is site specific. Its circular shape comes from
the features of the layout. The idea was to house the
structural column over there and a structural beam
was cut to let the staircase pass here.
Alberto our master carpenter in charge of production
was able to build it and install it in 4 working weeks.
The key point is that if you design interiors considering
how to coordinate site work and furniture production
together. You definitively save time and money and
achieve the best solution according to the brief that
Sergio Corneliani gave us.
architecture-from-design-by-to-designed-for/
LLL
Another impressive example can be our case histories for Sanlorenzo Yachts. We began to work for the Marine
Industry only in the summer of 2010 and since then we have completed 14 yachts. We bring to this traditional
field all our experience gained in Luxury Retail and just after the very first two yachts we were able to reduce
the time schedule by 50%! We also did a good job with costs. We managed to reduce total cost by almost 30%.
Sanlorenzo Yacht ’s steering-gear. Photo by Cristiano Cossu.
As Italian architects, we think this is part of our own
cultural background and ways of thinking.
L L L - You gave us an example from luxury
retail and one from luxury marine. What about
residential projects?
Daniela Ponti - This is absolutely the sector in
which our skills and approach can express
themselves at their best. As architects we
are deeply engaged in interior design and
we are firmly convinced that the crossfertilization between these different fields is a
feature of utmost importance. And as Italian
architects, we think this is part of our own
cultural background and ways of thinking. I
mean, moving across different disciplines such
as architecture, art, interior decoration and
carpentry.
LLL
Corneliani Flagship store’s facade in Shanghai.
Let me gave you a last example. When we took
But what is most impressive is that Corneliani took
charge of the design of the new Corneliani flagship
this pattern as its own brand. They used it for their
store facade in Shanghai, we expressed the strong
collection. So check out how creative fields can
bond between the fashion brand based in Mantua
inspire each other: from painting to architecture and
and we invented a new pattern by re-using a well-
even fashion! known decorative motif of Andrea Mantegna (the
world-famous painter of the Italian Renaissance who
lived and worked all his lifetime here in Mantua).
Mantegna himself painted this being inspired by
Donatello’s altar in Padua. The latter, in turn, was
See the video about it: http://notes.ermesponti.it/
en/2013/06/poddapontiarchitetti-design-the-newcornelianis-brand-pattern/#more-272
inspired by a famous facade of Roman Ruins..
I think this is the Italian forte! We are inventors...
in the literal sense!
ermesponti
Via Romana Zuccona,18
S. Biagio di Bagnolo S. Vito
Mantova - Italy
Phone +39 0376 251 266
[email protected]
www.ermesponti.it
Drawing for Corneliani Flagship store’s facade in Shanghai.