THE OYSTER TRAIL - Emsworth Online

Foster & Kennet
The Terror was an open sailing boat
built around 1890 and used for
conveying oysters around
Chichester Harbour. We believe
she was constructed by
Foster’s in Emsworth.
Around 29 feet long, nine
feet six in beam and two
feet six deep, she was
owned by Mr. Kennett
of Emsworth.
Kennett was an
oyster, winkle and
cockle
merchant. He
also traded in
sand and
gravel. Terror
was a versatile
load carrier and known
as a ‘beautiful sailor’. Her fortunes declined when
the oyster industry of Emsworth was destroyed by a
food poisoning incident in 1902.
The Ark was a well known feature of Emsworth
Harbour. At the launching there was such a wash set
up when it hit the water, that it is said that small
boats moored near Slipper Mill were capsized, and
J.D. Foster received several complaints. It was in
position just off the main channel in the Harbour by
1898, but removed in 1978.
At the close of the nineteenth century the industry in
Emsworth became centred on two men who acquired
most of the oyster beds as they became available
from local fishermen.
During 2003, the derelict boat was found lying in a
greenhouse near Emsworth. Chichester Harbour
Conservancy in conjunction with the Emsworth
Maritime and Historical Trust undertook the task of
raising funds to restore and preserve Terror. The
three-year restoration project was secured through
funding by the Heritage Lottery Fund.
J.D. Foster designed it as a landing stage for his
oyster smacks, and the lower half was a storage
tank for scallops. There were two sluices to control
the flow of water to ensure that the scallops did not
dry out at low tide, but the water could flow through
to keep them fresh at high tide.
Emsworth Harbour was declared contaminated in
1903, so The Ark was redundant, and then the 1914
to 1918 war prevented a renewal of the oyster trade
in any quantity, so it was not used for its original
purpose after its first few years. Instead it was a
mooring for the large oyster smacks and a target for
adventurous youngsters.
Its last useful purpose was as a platform for the
firework display that ended the celebrations to mark
the Silver Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II in 1977.
Terror was launched at a re-dedication ceremony on
the first day of the 2006 Emsworth Food Festival. The
blessing of the boat was performed by the Very
Reverend James Atwell, Dean of Winchester – and
thus forgiving the people of Emsworth for the untimely
death of one of his predecessors from eating a
contaminated Emsworth oyster at a banquet in 1902.
The Echo
The famous fishing smack ‘Echo’ is featured on the
town sign on the roundabout at the approach to the
town. It was 110 feet long and the largest sailing
fishing vessel to operate from an English port.
It had a well built into it amidships, and lead pipes
connected to the hull ensured that a good supply of
seawater could circulate and keep the catch fresh.
The top deck of the well was sprung for strength and
this allowed a clearance of about three feet between
it and the maindeck so that the crew could scramble
fore and aft without having to come on deck. Scoops
were so arranged that seawater could be directed
into the well as she was under way. There were four
sea-cocks to control the flow of water. When under
way the water flowed through the well and out from
the stern valves. There was a pump which could
drain the well when all the valves were closed. When
the 90 tons of water had been pumped out the
draught of the Echo was reduced about eighteen
inches. This gave the smack two distinct
advantages. One if she were sailing light she was
that much faster and also two when she came into
the shallow waters of Emsworth Harbour she could
more easily get to her mooring near the Quay.
J D Foster was a man of immense mental and physical
vigour reinforced with determination. On any day he
would be seen riding about Emsworth on one of his
bicycles. Those times were very hard for the working
class and once when he had a seamen’s walkout on
his hands he said, ‘They’ll come back’; and they did.
Those who worked for him say that he knew exactly
how long a job should take and what it was worth. But
it is when we come to consider the size, design and
quality of his ships that we have irrefutable evidence
of his genius and flair for progress.
John (known as Jack) Kennett was a local
councilman, an oyster, winkle and cockle merchant,
beside trading in sand and gravel. The boats he
owned included two ketch-rigged oystersmacks and
an open sailing boat called The Terror. This was
modelled on the lines of Foster’s Grampus and used
for conveying oysters to and from the lays at Hayling
Island, further details are included in this leaflet.
Oysters
Oysters had probably been fished in Emsworth and
Warblington for many centuries, before The
Emsworth Oyster Dredgers Co-operative was
established in the 1870s to improve and protect the
industry. In 1788. it is recorded that over 7,000
bushels of native Emsworth oysters, with a value of
£1,500, were raked and dredged by a dozen master
fishermen. The oyster industry flourished and the
fishery was at its height during the last decade of
the 19th century. In 1901 almost 400 people were
working in the Emsworth oyster trade, and mainly
either for Foster or Kennet.
In the early 1900s, council workers relaid a number
of the sewers and drains which emptied onto the
Emsworth foreshore, where a number of new ponds
in close proximity to the outflow had been seeded
with a considerable quantity of young oysters.
Emsworth’s important oyster industry was
devastated by the great oyster scare of 1902, when
guests at a Winchester banquet became ill and the
Dean of Winchester died from typhoid attributed to
eating Emsworth oysters at that event. Following
inspection of the oyster beds gross sewage
contamination was identified and the sale of
Emsworth oysters immediately slumped.
THE
OYSTER
TRAIL
The Ark
Emswo r th’s
Maritime Heritage
The Terror
A recent survey of Foster & Kennet’s oyster pens
The Terror today
Emsworth’s Maritime Heritage
Emsworth, known in the sixteenth century as
Emilsworth, developed most probably from one of the
primitive native settlements that were to be found
around our shores and especially by our rivers and
estuaries. Situated well up a tidal estuary that reached
further inland than it does today, and at the mouth of
the river which was known in the Middle Ages as the
Emil and today the Ems, the place was ideal to develop
into a fishing and trading community representing a
community that would live largely off the sea.
During the 18th century, Emsworth was the main port
in Chichester Harbour, and prosperous town
merchants began to build larger houses in Queen
Street, King Street and Tower Street. Many pubs in
the town originated as coaching inns, and flourished
until the railway’s arrival in 1846.
By 1878 approximately 50 vessels belonged in
Emsworth - rowing boats for fishing within the harbour,
and smacks of up to 30 tons and 50 feet in length
capable of fishing in more distant waters. A small
number of boats were involved in coastal trade with
commodities including coal,corn and timber. For its
size, Emsworth had a significant shipbuilding industry
with the supported manufacturing of sailcloth, fishing
nets and rope. Perhaps the most famous Emsworth
shipbuilder was J.D. Foster who built cutters and fast
deep-water ketches from 1880 onwards.
The great demand for oysters, particularly in the
London markets, led to the depletion of the
traditional oyster beds and made it necessary for the
smacks to fish more distant grounds.
The Emsworth dredgermen sought to replenish their
lays by dredging the Shoreham beds. Also, the French
and the Dutch had a disagreeable habit of intruding
into our home waters in search of crustaceans. This
was too much for our fishermen and their persistence
moved the Government first to protest, with the usual
innocuous result, and eventually to negotiate the
Convention of 1843 with the French Government. This
provided that oyster-dredging be prohibited in the
months from May to August inclusive, or as the
locals have it, when there is no ‘R’ in the month.
Oyster-dredging is therefore a winter occupation,
and the dredgermen of Emsworth were usually
employed sailing the yachts of the rich who used
the Solent ports as their base, particularly Cowes.
The Fisherman’s Walk, which you can still see
today, was constructed to give fishermen access
with a horse and cart to the man-made oyster
storage ponds on Fowley Island. Having been
stored temporarily in the ponds, the oysters were
brought to Emsworth along Fisherman’s Walk
and prepared for market.
The Oyster Trail offers a number of short walks
to explore Emsworth’s maritime heritage. The
routes of different lengths take in surviving
aspects of the Emsworth oyster industry,
related businesses and the rich maritime
heritage of the town.
Ostrea edulis
The flat or native oyster lives in
shallow coastal waters which have a
firm bed of mud, rocks, sand or gravel,
as well as old shells and hard silt.
The shell is off-white, yellowish or cream in colour
with light brown or bluish concentric bands.
It grows up to 110 mm long, rarely larger.
The inner surfaces are pearly, white or bluish-grey,
often with darker blue areas.
Supported by Chichester Harbour Conservancy
With thanks to the Rudkin family of Emsworth for use of material from the
‘Emsworth Series’ booklets. Illustrations by Marian Forster. Design by
Designline Graphics 023 9249 2331 www.designline-graphics.co.uk
Emsworth Town Walk
Boatyard Walk
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1. Emsworth Museum is situated on the
first floor (wheelchair access available) of
a Victorian building that used to be home
the Warblington and Emsworth Town
Council. Today it also accommodates the
town’s volunteer fire engine below the
museum.
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If you have followed the foreshore walk to the end you are now standing in part of
land of the old King’s boatyard - just one of the boat building businesses in
Emsworth in 1900.
Brook
Meadow
10. This aerial photograph shows the
location of the boatyards. If the tide and
conditions are right, you can take the steps
down to the foreshore, turn right and
proceed about two hundred metres to
the slip-way at the end of the beach.
Otherwise retrace your steps to King’s
Street, turn right and follow the road to the
same slipway.
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Take the pedestrian underpass by the
town’s roundabout and make your way to
Emsworth’s market town square (St
Peter’s). Walking through the High Street
you will notice that the thriving shopping
area includes a bakers, butchers, cook
shop, Deli, fishmonger, greengrocers,
and more.
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2. The town grew in prosperity during
Victorian times thanks to its thriving
fishing and oyster dredging industries
coupled with a boom in coastal shipping
and trade. Emsworth thrived as a busy
market town centre serving those living in
the area.
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Slipper
Millpond
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Town Millpond
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Now Emsworth
Yacht Harbour
Smugglers Walk
Wildlife Walk
5. Pass the Malthouse and turn the
corner to the right. Here is the town quay
and Slipper Mill, which is now a sailing
club. Carefully restored, you will see that
it now has a balcony at one side, used by
members to watch the boats go by.
This 1872 ordnance survey map copyright landmark historic series.
Top section is contemporary version showing new roads
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Smugglers Walk
If you have followed the foreshore walk to the
end you are now standing in part of land of
the old King’s boatyard - just one of the boat
building businesses in Emsworth in 1900.
6. Tidal water stored in the millpond at high
tide and used to power the tidal mill. It was
important as large vessels could tie up
directly to the jetty for loading and unloading,
rather than having to off load to smaller boats.
From the quay take the footpath that runs
south past the Slipper Sailing Club and on to
the path that runs south along the sea wall.
The quiet inlets along the top of Chichester and Langstone Harbours were remote
enough for the fishermen to smuggle goods in at night. Ponies could be quickly
loaded and led inland. Rowland’s Castle was a main centre for smuggling, because
it was on the boundary of 2 counties and 3 parishes. Not only wine and spirits, but
clothes and plants. It is rumoured that a lot of fruit trees in the area could have
been brought from France by the fishermen.
The foreshore path leads to Warblington which was the main settlement, until a
mar¬ket charter was granted for Emsworth in 1239. This was the impetus for
Emsworth to grow at the expense of Warblington. The Church at Warblington
remained the one for the whole parish until St. James was built in 1841. All
baptisms, marriages and burials took place at Warblington, and what is now known
Warblington Road was called Coffin Lane and led directly to Warblington Church.
7. Standing by the interpretation board
located at position 7 on this map, it’s hard
to imagine how busy the scene would have
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been just over a hundred years ago in 1900.
The harbour in front of you was a thriving
centre for the town’s fishing and shipping
industry. This included a fleet of oyster boats
and the “Ark” landing stage, with its internal
storage tank, all of which were based in this
narrow channel. Over half of Emsworth’s
population was employed in the fishing, and
associated industries, including boat
building. The boats varied in size from small
‘run-arounds’, such as Terror, to large steam
powered oyster smacks, including Echo.
At the height of the oyster boom, about three
million oysters a year were being sent out of
Emsworth, many to London and further
afield; in fact it could be considered an early
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14. We are now in Queen Street which was
originally the main route through Emsworth,
before the bypass. If you turn right you will
see The Lord Raglan pub and just past, a
footpath on the right that leads towards the
optional wildlife walk. Otherwise make you
way towards the A259.
15. Cross the main road and you will see
Peter Pond which used to be part of the
Slipper Millpond. The photo shows the old
road crossing the pond. Turn left and make
your way towards Brook Meadow. This
consists of 5 acres of grassland, surrounded
by woodlands and flanked by two streams. It
is full of birds, insects and wild flowers and
has Water Voles in the river.
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Foreshore Walk
Emsworth, with a natural environment which offered endless possibilities for
smuggling, acquired a reputation for such as early as the 14th century,
particularly in wines from France. This illicit trade developed later into spirits and
tobacco which could be con¬cealed easily in holds of fish. In the 19th century the
Excise Cutter Griper kept vigil at the entrance to Chichester Harbour.
12. Retrace your footsteps back through
King’s Street until you come to the pathway
on the right shown in this photograph
(about 400 metres). This gravel path is a
right of way which you follow down to the
trees and a path¬way. This will take you
down to a inlet called Dolphin Quay Creek
which then leads you towards Queen Street.
13. The boatyard on the other bank of the
creek is called Dolphin Quay boatyard. It
now specialises in traditional work on
wooden boats, and was used for the
restoration of the ‘Terror’. Through the
sponsorship of the Heritage Lottery Fund,
an apprentice, Sam Poore, was employed to
work on the project alongside master
crafts¬man, Richard Uttley. Its interesting
to note that the boat was originally built in
Foster’s yard more than 100 years ago.
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4. Looking across the mill pond to Bath
Road, this site is where the Saxons had a
temporary settlement and would have
been ideally placed to fish in the harbour.
This photograph was taken from Bath
Road and shows the town Brewery on the
left of the picture which has since been
demolished and is today the Town’s South
Street car park. You will also see the
interpretation board which will tell you
about the wildlife using this mill pond.
Turn left and follow Bridgefoot Path south
towards the Malthouse (shown on the
map).
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11. A century ago you would have been in
the centre of Foster’s Boatyard which you
can see in this photograph. This is where
many of the town’s ships were built,
including Fos¬ter’s own fleet, which
included the Ark, his largest boats, Echo
and Echo II, as well as the Terror oyster
boat of which you will hear more.
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3. At the height of the Emsworth oyster
industry’s production boom, the town
boasted an oyster shop, which has long
since gone and today the site is home to
an Indian restaurant. From here make
your way to Nile Street (with the Library on
its corner) and proceed down to the end
which faces the town’s mill pond.
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We will start our walk from either North Street or Palmers Road car parks, both
close to Emsworth Museum, all of which are marked on this map. The Emsworth
Maritime and Historical Trust Museum can normally be visited during weekends
from Easter to October, however full details can be found on its web site at
www.emsworthmuseum.co.uk.
example of factory farming.
From here you can either continue around
to the Smugglers walk section, or return to
the foreshore section of this walk. Return to
the quay and take South Street back up to
the Town Square. From here bear right into
Kings Street.
8. This road has many of the town’s older
houses and was the route to its main boat
yards, including King’s and Foster’s - more
about them later. Carry on a few hundred
yards until you come to a right turn called
‘Fishermans’ this will take you to a viewpoint
overlooking the town foreshore.
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Wildlife Walk
9. The production line approach of the
town’s oyster industry was typified by the
oyster pens that covered the foreshore and
were used for storage. The remains of these
can still be seen to¬day and the Oyster Trail
interpretation board will tell you more about
this, including a map showing the location of
these in around 1900.
With such a thriving industry, many other
jobs in Emsworth were created to support
fishing and oyster dredging. We will next find
out about the town’s related industries, so
follow the text on the right under the heading
“Boatyard walk”.
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At low tide, channels cut through the mudflats and out to the distant harbour
mouth. The intertidal mud is full of creatures that provide food for the thousands
of birds that live in or visit Chichester Harbour.
Brent geese are winter visitors and can be seen from November to March. They are
small dark geese with a blackhead and white under the tail. You may see them
feeding on seaweed on the mud at low tide. You may also see dabbling ducks
including Teal or Wigeon. Diving ducks include the Redbreasted Merganser with its
distinctive crest, and the Goldeneye. The males tend to be brightly coloured while
the females are mottled browns, with the exception of the Shelduck, a large mostlywhite duck with dark head and chest band. Resident pairs nest in rabbit holes near
the harbour and bring their young to the water to feed and learn to swim when they
are a day old.
You can find out more about the harbour’s wildlife by visiting Chichester Harbour
Conservancy’s website at www.conservancy.co.uk or calling into the Harbour Office.