Read my article - Keridwen Cornelius

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Santa Rosa
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Oakville
Yountville
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JUNE 2010 Phoenix Magazine
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10:49
Grape
Expectations
Five Western wine
regions yield
different but
equally wonderful
wine country
getaways
for the summer.
By Keridwen Cornelius
Photography by Art Holeman & Nicole Roegner
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137
10:49
“W
ine is sunlight held together by water,”
said scientist and Chianti drinker Galileo Galilei. Wine country, too, is alchemical: a blend
of sunshine, vines, rolling hills and charming
towns that’s more than the sum of its parts. Perhaps that’s why it’s so seductive. Then again, it could be the fabulous restaurants, plush inns and conviviality that cluster around appellations like grapes
on a vine. Or it could be the people it attracts: passionate mavericks, old-school
aficionados, romantics, agriculturists and groups of good friends.
Every wine country, like every wine, exudes a different personality. So whether you’re a luxury seeker, an outdoorsy type, an epicure or a cowboy, raise your
glass to these five grape escapes.
Wilhelm Family Vineyards,
Sonoita
Sonoita, Southern Arizona
Best for: RED WINE LOVERS AND COWBOYS
138
National Forest. Finally, bird-watch at the Patagonia-Sonoita Creek
Preserve, picnicking with a bottle of your favorite Sonoita wine.
Sonoita Resources
Rancho Rossa Vineyards: 201 Cattle Ranch Lane, Elgin; 520455-0700, ranchorossa.com, Fr-Su 10:30-3:30
Callaghan Vineyards: 336 Elgin Road, Elgin; 520-455-5322,
callaghanvineyards.com, Fr-Su 11-3
Canelo Hills: 342 Elgin Road, Elgin; 520-455-5499, canelohillswinery.com, Fr-Su 11-4
Wilhelm Family Vineyards: 21 Mountain Ranch Dr., Elgin; 520455-9291, wilhelmfamilyvineyards.com, Fr-Su 11-5
Dos Cabezas Wineworks: 3248 Hwy. 82, Sonoita;
520-841-1193, doscabezaswinery.com, Th-Su 10:30-4:30
Canela Bistro: 3252 Hwy. 82, Sonoita; 520-455-5873,
canelabistro.com
Duquesne House Bed and Breakfast: 357 Duquesne Ave.,
Patagonia; 520-394-2732, theduquesnehouse.com
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PHOTOS BY NICOLE ROEGNER (2)
Winemakers have a maxim, “ To produce great wine, the vines
must suffer.” Sonoita vines have suffered hail, searing heat and hungry
antelopes. Sonoita winemakers, too, have suffered: ridicule, crop loss,
the taste of their own wine during the experimental years. But now we
can taste the fruit of their suffering, and it tastes like... victory.
Arizona’s only official appellation may have traded cattle for cabernet (earning awards in the process), but this Oklahoma-esque setting
still says “Home on the Range.” Driving south from Sonoita onto Elgin
Road, you’ll rattle down a dirt lane to Rancho Rossa Vineyards,
where the tasting room looks like a trailer and the barrel room like a
garage, complete with a Grateful Dead soundtrack. But some of the
wines, all of which are produced from on-site grapes, could hold their
own against Napa’s. The cabernets are fruit-forward and chocolaty,
and the port style wine is as smooth as suede.
Just down Elgin Road sits Callaghan Vineyards, established
in 1990 by Kent Callaghan, one of the first winemakers in the state to
make nationally award-winning wines. Sample the apricot-kissed
white blend and the fruity, spicy red blends. Next door at Canelo
Hills, refresh your palate with kiwi-tinged, silver medal-winning
chardonnay and floral malvasia dessert wine.
Skip Sonoita Vineyards and Village of Elgin Winery and head to
Wilhelm Family Vineyards, where you’ll be introduced to the
state’s only UC Davis-certified winemaker, Karyl Wilhelm, and perhaps
the area’s most distinctive wines. The albariño, a rare Galician white, is
assertively peachy, while Kevin’s Choice, the tempranillo-syrah blend,
won a bronze medal for its unique vanilla-almond undertones.
Back in Sonoita, visit Dos Cabezas Wineworks, whose wine
has been served at the White House; try the all-local El Campo red
blend. Dine on local produce and meats amid the warm, Southwestern ambience at Canela Bistro.
Make a weekend of it by staying in Patagonia at the Duquesne
House Bed and Breakfast. Savor the scenery on the slow route
between Sonoita and Patagonia via State Route 83, which weaves
through champagne-colored grassland, ghost towns and Coronado
Canelo Hills, Elgin
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10:49
Verde Valley,
Northern Arizona
Best for: RED WINE LOVERS, HISTORY BUFFS
AND ANYONE SEEKING A QUICK, COOL,
CREEKSIDE GETAWAY
The Verde Valley is the wild card of wine country. While most
vineyards are blanketed over Impressionist landscapes, these vines
eke out a living in rocky canyons once thronging with outlaws and
miners. But water runs through this rugged frontier, transforming
it into a surprisingly lush microclimate and itself into surprisingly
luscious wines.
Because Northern Arizona is a fledgling wine region, many of
the area’s vines are not yet ready for production. So some wines
are made from local grapes, some blended with southern Arizona
Water to Wine Tour
Kayak down the Verde River to riverside Alcantara Vineyards for a tasting
with Sedona Adventure Tours.
Info: sedonaadventuretours.com
140
grapes, and some made here with grapes from California. Proprietors can provide you with details on each wine.
Driving from Phoenix, the first stop on the wine trail is Alcantara Vineyards, nestled by the Verde River in a semi-Tuscan setting sentinelled by bald eagles. Pull up a chair at proprietress Barbara Predmore’s tasting room – which happens to be her kitchen
– and sample the NV Confluence, a spicy red blend made from estate grapes.
As unlikely a wine country as Verde Valley is, it was put on the
map by an even unlikelier character: rock star Maynard James
Keenan. Trading a heavy-metal lifestyle in L . A . for sleepy Jerome,
Keenan partnered with winemaker Eric Glomski, and between
the two of them, they have three wineries in the area. The first is
Arizona Stronghold, which opened its art-filled tasting room in
historic downtown Cottonwood in March. Sample the vanilla-toned
Mangus and the “shape-shifting” Chupacabra, a blend of 13 varietals.
In nearby Jerome, explore more of Keenan’s wines at Caduceus Cellars & Merkin Vineyards, housed in a historic brick
building with a pressed tin ceiling. Try the Primer Paso, blended
with malvasia bianca, a floral varietal that insiders say may be Arizona’s new grape. Stroll the atmospheric former mining town, stopping for more vino at Jerome Winery and for fresh, full-flavored
New Mexican food at 15.Quince Grill and Cantina.
From Jerome, the road spools around the mountains and
the scenery greens as you reach bucolic Page Springs. First up is
Javelina Leap, where you can sample a scrumptious sangiovese
and, every Saturday, get a free cellar tour with leading ornithologist-turned-oenologist Dr. Russ Balda.
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PHOTOS BY NICOLE ROEGNER, LEFT; ART HOLEMAN, RIGHT
Javelina Leap, Cornville
wine country getaways
Caduceus Cellars, Jerome
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09:05
Arizona Stronghold, Cottonwood
Verde Valley Resources
Alcantara Vineyards: 3445 S. Grapevine Way, Verde Valley;
928-649-8463, alcantaravineyard.com, daily 11-5
Arizona Stronghold: 1023 Main St., Cottonwood; arizonastrongholdvineyards.com, daily from noon
Caduceus Cellars & Merkin Vineyards: 158 Main St., Jerome;
928-639-9463, caduceus.org, Su-Th 11-6, Fr-Sa 11-8
Jerome Winery: 403 Clark St., Jerome; 928-639-9067, jeromewinery.com, M-Th 12-5, Fr 12-6, Sa 11-6, Su 12-5
15.Quince Grill and Cantina: 363 Main St., Jerome; 928-6347087, 15quincejerome.com
Javelina Leap: 1565 Page Springs Road, Cornville;
928-649-2681, javelinaleapwinery.com, daily 11-5
Page Springs Cellars: 1500 N. Page Springs Road, Cornville;
928-639-3004, pagespringscellars.com, daily 11-6
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Napa, California
Best for: CHARDONNAY AND CABERNET
LOVERS, LUXURY-SEEKERS, GOURMANDS
Napa, like a fine wine, has improved with age, slowly sophisticating yet developing nuances that appeal to every traveler. The fact
that it’s established means the guesswork is gone – all the wine tastings, luxury, gourmet restaurants and outdoor activities you could
want are at your fingertips. Wine beginners need not be intimidated: For every celebrity winery there’s a cast of character vintners
quietly turning out equally stellar vino minus the pretense.
Savvy travelers pass the utilitarian town of Napa in favor of
Yountville, a one-street town with a constellation of Michelinstarred restaurants – more per capita than anywhere on the planet.
The place to stay is Villagio Inn & Spa, which feels like your own
Coronado Vineyards Grape
Stomp
Stomp grapes barefoot at this
fourth-annual festival in Southern Arizona, held this year on August 28.
Info: coronadovineyards.com
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10:50
PHOTOS BY ART HOLEMAN (4)
Skip Oak Creek Vineyards & Winery and visit winemaker Eric
Glomski’s deservedly popular Page Springs Cellars. Taste a constantly changing cadre of award-winning wines while overlooking a
vineyard corralled by rocky hills and cottonwoods. Buy a bottle and
a cheese plate (they’ll provide the picnic basket and blanket) and
picnic at tables on the banks of Oak Creek as it flows through the
property. On weekends, listen to live music and indulge in a creekside massage.
wine country getaways
Assistant winemaker Joe
Bechard (left) and employee
Colleen Rambo (right) at Arizona Stronghold, Cottonwood
pied-à-terre in a Tuscan village, with homey fireplaces, oversized tubs, and desktop
photographs in the cushy, wine-stocked,
cream-colored rooms. Here, you’ll get your
first clue that Napa is the most European
of America’s wine countries, and the most
luxuriously convenient. Your days fall into a
happy routine: Champagne breakfast buffet
at the Villagio, amble or bike the vineyards,
stroll to a Michelin-starred lunch, walk (or
drive a mile) to a few wineries, get a fireside
grape extract facial at Villagio Spa, mosey to
a Michelin-starred dinner, shuffle back to
the room, fall asleep fireside, repeat.
In Yountville, visit stylish Girard Winery, where every cabernet is better than the
last. At art-filled Hope & Grace Wines,
chemistry buffs will enjoy speaking with
winemaker Charles Hendricks about the
science of wine – and tasting the caramelly
chardonnay. Watch a dramatic Champagne
sabering at V Wine Cellar. Drive a short
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09:05
Keever Vineyards, Napa
Napa Valley Balloons
Drift above tawny hills corduroyed
with vineyards in a hot air balloon, then
toast with a champagne breakfast.
Info: napavalleyballoons.com
144
Napa Resources
Villagio Inn & Spa: 6481 Washington St., Yountville;
800-351-1133, villagio.com
Girard Winery: 6795 Washington St., Yountville;
707-968-9297, girardwinery.com
Hope & Grace Wines: 6540 Washington St., Yountville; 707944-2500, hopeandgracewines.com
V Wine Cellar: 6525 Washington St., Yountville; 707-531-7053,
vwinecellar.com
Keever Vineyards: 26 Vineyard View Dr., Yountville;
707-944-0910, keevervineyards.com, by appointment only
Rudd Winery: 500 Oakville Crossroad, Oakville;
707-944-8577, ruddwines.com
Napa Valley Bike Tours: 6795 Washington St., Yountville; 707944-2953, napavalleybiketours.com
Saddleback Cellars: 7802 Money Road, Oakville,
707-944-1305, saddlebackcellars.com
Hopper Creek Vineyard and Winery: 6204 Washington St.,
Yountville; 707-944-2139, hoppercreek.com
Bottega: 6525 Washington St., Yountville; 707-945-1050, botteganapavalley.com
Redd: 6480 Washington St., Yountville; 707-944-2222,
reddnapavalley.com
Hurley’s: 6518 Washington St., Yountville; 707-944-2345; hurleysrestaurant.com
Bistro Jeanty: 6510 Washington St., Yountville; 707-944-0103;
bistrojeanty.com
The French Laundry: 6640 Washington St., Yountville; 707944-2380, frenchlaundry.com
Oakville Grocery: 7856 St. Helena Hwy., Oakville;
707-944-8802, oakvillegrocery.com
Dean & DeLuca: 607 S. St. Helena Hwy., St. Helena;
707-967-9980, deandeluca.com
JUNE 2010 Phoenix Magazine
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13:04
PHOTOS COURTESY OF KEEVER VINEYARDS, LEFT; NAPA VALLEY BIKE TOURS, RIGHT
distance through Spanish moss-draped oaks to Keever Vineyards to drink in valley views and exceptional cabernets, plus tour
the winery and its cave cellar with charming owner Olga Keever.
Schedule a private, personalized tour of the gorgeous grounds
and state-of-the-art cave cellars at Rudd Winery in Oakville.
You’ll taste rare, artisanal cabernets and get your most pressing
questions about enology and food pairing answered.
To truly experience Napa’s terroir, mountain bike amid the
vines or road bike between vineyards with Napa Valley Bike
Tours. You’ll picnic by the grapes and pedal riverside backroads
to mom-and-pop wineries such as the John Wayne-themed Saddleback Cellars and casual, agrarian Hopper Creek Vineyard
and Winery.
But what is wine without its soul mate, food? In Yountville, bustling and friendly Bottega will have you at “caviar-topped tuna
sashimi served on a 200-million-year-old block of Himalayan salt”
and leave you swooning by “muscat-soaked deconstructed carrot
cake.” Soothing, minimalist Redd has a Michelin star and a menu
that shines. Local winemakers dine at easygoing Hurley’s. Francophiles adore the Parisian classics at Bistro Jeanty and the unforgettable fare at triple-Michelin-starred The French Laundry.
Make a Michelin-worthy picnic at Oakville Grocery, which
has been peddling top-shelf take-out, pastries and local specialty
foods since 1881. During Prohibition, some Napa vintners turned
to cheesemaking, and the culture still thrives today. At Dean &
DeLuca, choose from an array of local cheeses, 1,400 California
wines, and farm-fresh produce, then savor them among the vines.
wine country getaways
Napa Valley Bike Tours
to visit America’s first organic brewpub, Ukiah Brewing Co.
Next, cruise into Anderson Valley to Boonville, an isolated hamlet where locals still speak Boontling, a dialect developed in the
1800s. There, you’ll find aplenty bahl steinber (very good beer) at
Mendocino County,
Northern California
Anderson Valley Brewing Co.
Base yourself amid pastoral solitude in the simple cottages at
Best for: WINE AND BEER LOVERS,
OUTDOORSY TYPES
Other Place. Dine at Table 128 in the Boonville Hotel, where the
She likes wine, he likes beer. What is a couple to do except hop
on the first plane to San Francisco and head north to Mendocino
County, where several microbreweries, wineries, redwood forests,
beaches and paddle-ready rivers beckon low-key travelers.
Driving north on SR 101 from the Bay Area, you’ll reach two
breweries before you get to Mendocino County. But, heck, beer
knows no borders. Stop in Santa Rosa at Russian River Brewing
Co. to taste why their Pliny the Elder IPA inspires religious fervor,
and in Healdsburg to sample gold medal-winning ales at Bear Re-
public Brewing Co.
Once in Mendocino County, visit Mendocino Brewing Co.’s
Hopland Brewery, home of Red Tail Ale. Then jaunt up to Ukiah
menu is small, set and superb. Go for granola at hippie-shabby-chic
Mosswood Market & Café, and pick up honor-system jams at
Apple Farm. Then hike in redwood groves at Hendy Woods State
Park until it’s time for tasting.
The unpretentiousness of still-untapped Anderson Valley belies
the excellence of its wines. Artist Toby Hill makes artful pinot noirs
at Phillips Hill Estates. Sip chenin blanc at grape-trellised picnic
tables in Navarro Vineyards and buttery chardonnay with cheese
at Standish Wine Co., where the picturesque wooden tasting
room was once used to dry apples.
The owners of farm-like Lazy Creek Vineyards are happy
to talk about their award-winning, sustainably farmed, affordable vino. Pony up to the 19th century barn-turned-tasting room
at Husch Vineyards, then finish posh with sparkling wines at
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Husch Vineyards, Mendocino County
707-895-2210,
boonvillehotel.com
Mosswood Market &
Café: 14111 Hwy. 128,
Boonville; 707-895-3635
Apple Farm: 18501 Greenwood Road, Philo; 707-8952333, philoapplefarm.com
Phillips Hill Estates: 8627
Hwy. 128, Philo; 707-8952209, phillipshillestates.com
Navarro Vineyards:
5601 Hwy. 128, Philo; 800537-9463, navarrowine.com
Standish Wine Co.:
5101 Hwy. 128, Philo;
707-895-9213
Lazy Creek Vineyards:
4741 Hwy. 128, Philo;
888-529-9275,
lazycreekvineyards.com
Husch Vineyards: 4400
Hwy. 128, Philo; 800-5548724, huschvineyards.com
Roederer Estate: 4501
Hwy. 128, Philo; 707-8952288, roedererestate.com
Libby’s: 8651 Hwy. 128,
Philo; 707-895-2646
Living Light Inn: 533 E.
Fir St., Fort Bragg; 707-
Roederer Estate. Hungry? Locals clamor for the carnitas at Libby’s, which pairs its fresh Mex fare with great wines.
964-1384, livinglightinn.com
Next, it’s north to tiny Navarro, with its Tolkienesque setting in
a redwood forest. Cruise up the coast to Fort Bragg, staying at ecofriendly Living Light Inn and touring North Coast Brewing
Co., named one of the 10 best breweries in the world by the Beverage Testing Institute in Chicago. Tired of tasting? Rent a handmade
redwood outrigger canoe from Catch a Canoe to paddle Big River
State Park, then stroll the beach at Caspar Headlands State Park.
964-2739, northcoastbrewing.com
Catch a Canoe: 44850 Comptche-Ukiah Road,
Mendocino; 707-937-0273, catchacanoe.com
Russian River Brewing Co.: 725 Fourth St., Santa Rosa; 707545-2337, russianriverbrewing.com
Bear Republic Brewing Co.: 345 Healdsburg Ave., Healdsburg; 707-433-2337, bearrepublic.com
Mendocino Brewing Co.’s Hopland Brewery: 13351 S. Hwy.
101, Hopland; 707-744-1361, mendobrew.com
Ukiah Brewing Co.: 102 S. State St., Ukiah; 707-468-5898,
ukiahbrewingco.com
Anderson Valley Brewing Co.: 17700 Hwy. 253, Boonville;
707-895-2337, avbc.com
Other Place: Boonville, 707-895-3979, sheepdung.com
Table 128: Boonville Hotel, 14050 Hwy. 128, Boonville;
Sonoma Grape Camp
Pick grapes, blend your own wine
and get insider secrets from winemakers at various vineyards at this three-day
camp in Sonoma County, California.
Info: sonomagrapecamp.com
146
Willamette
Valley, Oregon
Best for: PINOT NOIR LOVERS,
ENVIRONMENTALISTS, LOCAVORES
At his first state dinner, President Barack Obama served a Riesling from Willamette Valley, but it was misspelled on the menu – a
sure sign that this region is getting buzz but still is relatively unknown. Pronounced Will-AM-ette, the valley takes its name from
the eponymous river that unfurls south from Portland past Eugene.
Eco-friendly vintners flourish in this doubly green landscape rife
with organic farm stands, while moody, pensive pinot noir grapes
develop character in the cool, damp climate.
Cruising State Route 99W south from Portland for 25 miles,
you’ll find a cluster of wineries in Newberg. But to really feel you’ve
arrived, press on to the Dundee/Dayton area. A golden light suffuses this lush, wide-open wine country, and many tasting rooms
afford views. To wit: Winderlea Winery & Vineyard, which
overlooks biodynamically farmed vines.
Taste the pinots at Erath Vineyards, and when you return to
Arizona, compare them to the reds from winemaker Dick Erath’s
newest venture, Cimarron Vineyards near Willcox. Drink in the
views of Mount Jefferson as you sip premier cuvée pinot noir at
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PHOTOS COURTESY OF HUSCH VINEYARDS, LEFT; SCOTT PAUL WINES, RIGHT
Mendocino County Resources
North Coast Brewing Co.: 455 N. Main St., Fort Bragg; 707-
wine country getaways
Scott Paul Wines, Willamette Valley
Archery Summit Vineyards. And at Sokol Blosser, sample
Inn at Red Hills: 1410 N. Hwy. 99W, Dundee; 503-538-7666,
organic wines crafted with the help of solar panels and biodieselfueled tractors.
In Dundee, stay at the Inn at Red Hills, savoring fresh produce
at the on-site Farm to Fork restaurant or at homey winemaker
favorite Tina’s. Next, detour west to tiny Carlton to stroll among
around 20 wineries, eight of which are housed in Carlton Winemakers Studio.
Nearby, Scott Paul Wines crafts highly acclaimed pinot noirs,
including one named Audrey for its supposedly striking similarities
to Ms. Hepburn. If you stay in Carlton, sleep in beautifully converted
grain silos overlooking a farm at Abbey Road Farm B&B.
In Cucina restaurant at Cana’s Feast Winery, it’s easy to
imagine you’re in Tuscany, but why bother when you can savor the
equally seductive alchemy of Western American wine country?
innatredhills.com
Tina’s: 760 Hwy. 99W, Dundee; 503-538-8880,
tinasdundee.com
Carlton Winemakers Studio: 801 N. Scott St., Carlton;
503-852-6100, winemakersstudio.com
Scott Paul Wines: 128 S. Pine St., Carlton; 503-852-7300,
scottpaul.com
Abbey Road Farm B&B: 10501 N.E. Abbey Road,
Carlton; 503-852-6278, abbeyroadfarm.com
Cucina at Cana’s Feast Winery: 750 W. Lincoln St., Carlton;
503-852-0002, canasfeastwinery.com
— Keridwen Cornelius can be reached at
[email protected].
PM
Willamette Valley Resources
Winderlea Winery & Vineyard: 8905 N.E. Worden Hill Road,
Dundee; 503-554-5900, winderlea.com
Erath Vineyards: 9409 N.E. Worden Hill Road, Dundee;
503-538-3318, erath.com
Archery Summit Vineyards: 18599 N.E. Archery Summit
Road, Dayton; 503-864-4300, archerysummit.com
Sokol Blosser: 5000 N.E. Sokol Blosser, Dayton;
sokolblosser.com
Bike Oregon Wine Country
Every Sunday in August, join cyclist
oenophiles for a 30- or 52-mile group
ride from Eola Hills Wine Cellar in Rickreall to several vineyards.
Info: eolahillswinery.com
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09:07