valais, land of vineyards and wines

Valais, land of vineyards and wines 1
Dear Friends of Valais Wines,
Just imagine yourself for a moment, sat in the sun on a terrace, drinking an exquisite glass of wine in good
company… You must surely be not very far from Valais !
Our canton boasts many treasures, appealing to the Swiss and tourists alike. These include the magnificent
landscapes, an exceptional amount of sunshine, grape varieties producing a multitude of excellent wines,
a Wine Route running through the terraced vineyards, as well as a welcoming tradition based on social
interaction, candour and spontaneity.
With 5,070 hectares, Valais is the largest wine-producing canton in Switzerland and produces almost 40%
of the country’s wine. According to a study conducted in 2008 by the MIS Trend polling organisation on
the image of Swiss wines, the majority of consumers think that Valais produces the best red and white wines
in the country. Valais is known worldwide for the excellence of its sweet wines, its Petite Arvine, which has
such presence or the force of character of its Cornalin, and offers a range of wines sure to surprise and
delight you.
Discover and rediscover Valais, its climate, the authenticity of its wines and diversity of its vineyards in this
brochure and its leaflets – “Les Vins du Valais - Ambassadors” (selection of wine shops in Switzerland) and
“Les Vins du Valais - Rendezvous” (programme of events connected with Valais wines, a list of regional
wine bars and caveaux, wine tourism).
Lastly, we are pleased to invite you to the 4th “Les Vins du Valais Wineries Open Day”, the spring event not
to be missed on 13, 14 and 15 May 2010 (Ascension public holiday weekend).
Happy reading and Cheers !
Interprofession de la Vigne et du Vin du Valais, February 2010
“Wine is the most civilized thing in the world.”
Ernest Hemingway
VALAIS, YOUR DESTINATION FOR WINE & PLEASURE
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Lötschberg
The Valais vineyards
Vionnaz
CollombeyMuraz
Monthey
Troistorrents
Crans-Montana
Mountain resort
St-Maurice
VAL D’ILLIEZ
Evionnaz
Champéry
Vernayaz
Chamonix
FRANCE
Turtmann
Ergisch
Visp
VAL D’HÉRÉMENCE
Stalden
Embd
e
on
Rh
e
-G
ig
Br
Th
Simplon
Domodossola
ITALIA
Visperterminen
Staldenried
Saas-Fee
MATTERTAL
VAL DE BAGNES
Great St Bernard Pass
Aoste
ITALIA
Château
Stockalper
Evolène
VAL D’HÉRENS
Furka Pass
Zeneggen
Charrat
Fondation Pierre Gianadda
Verbier
Vollèges
Bovernier
lis
èc
he
Leuk
Salgesch
Agarn
Chermignon
Sierre
Highway A9
Ayent Lens
Chippis
Railway
Grimisuat
Valère et Tourbillon
Chalais
Conthey Savièse
Grône
Vercorin
Vétroz
St-Léonard
Sion
Ardon
Lac souterrain
Nax
Chamoson
Vex
Salins
Ovronnaz
Vernamiège
Veysonnaz
Leytron
Collonges
VAL D’ANNIVIERS
Nendaz
Riddes
Saillon
Dorénaz
Saxon
Fully
Pyramides d’Euseigne
Martigny
Martigny-Combe
Veyras
Br
Interesting feature
Lo
Vouvry
Va
r
The Valais Wine Route
en
-le
Wine-producing city/village
G
Lausanne
Berne
Port-Valais
Aletsch Glacier
LÖTSCHENTAL
Bern
Zürich
s-B
ai
am ats
ns
c
pe h
St l
eg H
oh
N
te
ie
nn
de
r
g
Ra e
ro ste
n
ln
Au
Ba sse
lts rbe
c
Eg hie rg
ge de
La
r r
ld ber
g
en
Lake Geneva
M
o
Ra ntan
n a
Ve dog
n t h ne
M ôn
iè e
ge
2
Zermatt
SAASTAL
Simplon Pass
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Valais and its wonderful diversity
Valais is one of the most beautiful valleys in the Alps, with magnificent scenery stretching the
length of the Rhone as it wends it ways towards Lake Geneva. The canton sits at the heart of
the Alps and runs, with the river, from east to west and from 400 to 4,000 metres in altitude.
The result is an incredible diversity of landscapes and ecosystems. Hikers who look to either
side of the paths are quickly enamoured of the rich flora and fauna of Valais, from the almond
trees that often burst into flower just before the end of the winter to kaki and olive trees, harmless
Italian scorpions and praying mantises.
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Valais is like a pyramid. On the Rhone plain it is a land of luxuriant gardens and orchards
boasting rich alluvial soil. Climb to the level of the vines that hug the steepest slopes, up to
800 metres or even 1,000 metres in Vispertal, and study the plants among the vines and
steppe-like brush and bushes that grow there. Above the vines lie forests and fields and yet
higher, above the treeline, are the high pastures crowned by the majestic Alpine peaks and
their silent, mineral world.
Vineyards in the Sion area
This extraordinary variety runs parallel to the rich and varied traditions of society that have
developed here, reflected in a cultural wealth. Whether it’s winter or summer, the number of
options for tourists is enormous, from the broad spread of ski resorts in winter to the mix of
hiking that takes you from mountain paths to lakeside trails.
Make it yours! Discover and rediscover this incredibly varied richness, at www.valais.ch.
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A brief history
Wild grapes have been part of the Valais landscape since the earliest times, and they are still found
throughout the canton. We know that the fruit was harvested well before the time of the Gauls but nothing
indicates that these people made wine. The first true cultivators of vines were the Romans, whose conquest
of Valais was a century before Jesus Christ. They brought cultivation methods that gave rise to new drinking
and eating habits, notably the consumption of wine.
It was not until the fourth century AD, however, that the modest production of Valais wine grew significantly.
Christianity brought to the Romanized Gauls of the Rhone valley a new reason to produce wine, with
communion giving it a new, sacred and religious dimension. Christianity, given a considerable boost by
the monasteries, encouraged development of the vineyards until the 13th century. The monks used wine for
several purposes: for mass, in their hostels, as a medical treatment in their hospitals and, not to be overlooked,
wine had bartering value during this period.
Life became more difficult in the middle of the 14th century. The plague hit in 1348 and rough climatic
conditions at the end of the century weakened and impoverished the population. Many farmers and growers
left the canton to become mercenaries in the armies of powerful neighbours. When they returned they brought
with them special trophies: new plants.
Much later, in 1830, the new road over the Saint Gotthard pass, the first stagecoach road in Valais, gave
another boost to wine production. Until then the vineyards had been accessible only via the Saint Maurice
pass. Wine was carried over the Alps by beasts of burden or men. The opening of the main passes, followed
in the 1860s by the railroad to Sion, contributed to the growth of the wine industry. This was also a period
of restructuring in the vineyards, with more resistant and productive vines planted, and producers turned to
wines that took less time to make, such as Chasselas, Pinot Noir, Gamay and Sylvaner.
Phylloxera arrived late in Valais—1906 in Sion—allowing growers to take advantage of the experience
of their colleagues in Vaud and France, although it came close to sounding the death knell for some native
varieties. It was 1950 before the vineyards were entirely replanted. But the world crises of the early part of
the 20th century did not spare the region and in the 1930s the Valais government put in place professional
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associations for growers and producers, such as cooperative cellars. The second world war
did not have a negative impact on the wine businesses, rather the opposite: import restrictions
benefited Valais wines. When the war ended business continued to expand and plantations
quickly reached the size they have today.
Attention was logically turned at this point to harvest sizes and better productivity. Quantity
reached the breaking point in 1983, and new quality criteria were established that placed
greater emphasis on limited yields and on controlling the quantity of sugar in the must. The
new regulations covered AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) wines, starting in 1990.
This, coupled with the enthusiasm and strong involvement on the part of a number of growers,
producers and oenologists, has helped place Valais among the great vineyards of Europe,
with a growing reputation as one of the great vineyards of the world.
Harnessing, Fully, 1945
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A climate similar to France’s Midi
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Valais, sitting in the heart of the Alps, benefits from an exceptional steppes climate. The barriers
formed by the mountains often hold back rain, creating warm foehn winds that sweep away
the clouds, bringing fine weather and gentle temperatures.
Valais is Switzerland’s driest canton, with only 600 mm of precipitation a year. It is also, with
2,100 hours a year of sunlight, one of the most sun-blessed regions in central Europe. The dry
foehn winds that are frequent in autumn dry the grapes, encourage them to ripen and help
concentrate their sugar, all the while stopping gray rot. When the foehn doesn’t blow, local
winds, usually from the side valleys, often serve the same purpose.
the intensity of the foehn winds
through vineyards in valais
Weak
Medium
Strong
Very strong
Local winds
The other key climatic feature is the strong contrast in temperature between warm days and
cool nights. The evening chill helps aromas develop complexity and delicacy as the grapes
reach the end of the ripening process. Frost, that great enemy of vines and all open-air cultivation, is rare in the Rhone Valley.
Valais is also remarkable for the regular rhythmn and beauty of its autumns, with sunny days
and warm dry weather, perfect for top quality sweet late harvest wines that compete happily
with the best sweet wines from Sauternes, Alsace, Germany and Hungary.
Conditions are ideal for these vineyards, which sit at 450 to 800 metres. There are just two
shortcomings to what would otherwise be a heavenly location for growing grapes: spring
frosts—the glaciers are close by—and dry spells that can last too long in summer. Growers in
the past used the famous bisses (irrigation channels) that trapped mountain streams and rivers
to water the vines. Today’s growers irrigate lightly.
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Soils that are rich and complex
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Geology is the most basic thing that contributes to the international reputation of Valais wines.
This is as rich as it is complex, linked to the emergence and development of the Swiss Alps. To
understand this we need to go back several hundreds of thousands of years, into the earliest
times, where we can picture the slow formation of the continents, tectonic plates colliding, the
gradual formation of the Alpine massif. We need to recall how, over time, these geological
movements created folds, rock slides, mud slides and sharp fissures in rock formations. Add
to this the enormous Rhone glacier which moved down to Lyon some 15,000 years ago, and
then try to envisage its slow retreat, where it remodeled, millimetre by millimetre, the land and
the slopes, leaving in its wake, on the rocks, deposits that were both rich and varied.
The multitude of grape varieties that grow in Valais create a mosaic of different soils, with each seeking the
terroir where it finds its best expression. Gamay loves granite, Pinot Noir chalky soils. This explains why
Gamay is widely reputed to be at its best in the area around Martigny and Fully and why Pinot Noir does so
well in Salgesch and Sierre. That said, the fact that there are, in each region of the canton, several different
geological formations makes it possible for most varieties to find the ideal conditions in Valais.
Generally speaking, Lower Valais, the area from Martigny to Saillon, is mainly granitic,
sometimes covered by loess–calcium deposits built up by wind–sometimes interwoven with
limestone veins.
valais geography
Higher up in the canton, the soil is extremely chalky, to a point where people refer to active
limestone. This is an area that starts between Sion and Sierre and stretches to the Upper Valais,
going as high as vines grow.
Between these two areas we find two types of soil: moraines, or the debris and rocks carried
and left by glaciers; soils that are not deep and which sit on chalk or schist. This is sedimentary
rock in layers that resembles slate.
A last kind of soil that is important for vines is found on dejection cones. This is formed by alluvial detritus carried over millennia by the Rhone. This is a pebbly, gravelly soil, well drained,
sometimes even very dry. It is found the length of the Valais vineyards, but the most famous of
the dejection cones is La Losentze in Chamoson.
The Interprofession de la Vigne et du Vin du Valais, in partnership with canton Valais, offers a detailed study
of the canton’s terroirs at www.vs.ch.
Large torrential cone
Pennic nappe
micaschist - quartzite
Prealps nappe
limestone - schist - gypsum
Helvetic nappe
limestone - schist
External massif
gneiss - granite
Valais zone
limestone - schist - mica - gypsum
Quaterny filling of the Rhone valley
gravel - sandy- loam
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a vineyard in terraces
Valais benefits from a multitude of soils that lend themselves to growing vines, and it also has
a climate that is particularly good for viticulture. But without humans working the vines, there
would be no wine! The grower and producer are an integral part of the idea of “terroir.” As
important as climate, these people give their knowledge, skills and ultimately choices to the
process of creating excellent wines.
In the third century the first growers began to cultivate vines and to establish vine parcels
on the slopes. These terraces, supported by dry stone walls, were artisanal and ecological
jewels—architectural masterpieces built onto the rock. Put the terraced vineyards of 69 Valais
communes end to end and you have more than 3,000 kilometres of dry stone walls!
What fitness and perseverance it must have taken to build these walls, which are more than
20 metres high in some places, and to carry the earth needed to fill them. And what labour
and what a cost it is to maintain them yet today, in these places where there is no room for
mechanization.
Terraced vineyards in Clavoz (Sion)
The AOC Valais (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée valais)
Valais has been putting in place, since 1990, an AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) system
with regulations similar to those used for vines in the European Union. In Valais, the wines are subject to very strict rules which cover every aspect of production that touches the quality and typicity :
their growing areas, plantings, grape yields and minimal sugar levels. These regulations are tightly
controlled–Valais has been, since 2005, the only canton that checks part of the vines before the harvests
–which means that the wines can be clearly traced, ensuring for the long term the future of Valais grapegrowing and wine production.
The AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) Valais covers 49 grape varieties grown throughout the
canton. Among these, the three main ones are Pinot Noir, Chasselas and Gamay, which together account
for two-thirds of the vineyard’s grapes. Several communes are noted for particular varieties. These wines
may carry labels which give the name of the area where they are produced, for example Vétroz Amigne,
Martigny and Fully Gamay, Sierre and Salquenen Pinot Noir, Chamoson Johannisberg, Humagne Rouge
from Leytron, Fendant from Sion and Saint-Léonard, and Conthey Chardonnay.
The right to use “Grand Cru”, which has stricter requirements than those for AOC wines, has been given to
several communes: Conthey, Fully, Saint-Léonard, Salquenen et Vétroz. This is not a definitive list, as several
other communes are preparing their own list of requirements that will allow them to join this privileged group,
including Chamoson, Leytron, Saillon, Sierre and Sion for example.
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four seasons in the vineyard
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Spring
The days grow longer, temperatures climb and the weather is gentler. The earliest signs of
spring show up in the vines themselves, which suddenly weep as sap rises from the roots.
Buds suddenly appear and, little by little, they develop into wispy shoots. At this point the
grower steps in. He starts by selecting, for each plant, a limited number of shoots and he
prunes the others (disbudding). Later, when they have grown into canes, he ties them, being
careful to remove the secondary canes that develop at the base of each leaf (the nodes). In
addition to this time-consuming work the grower must give the plants their first treatments, take
care of the soil and replace any plants that have died over the winter.
Autumn
Harvest time is a wonderful season, celebrated in every way! This is the moment for the winemaker when a year’s labour comes to fruition. Once the grapes are picked, the winemaker
disappears into the cellar to work with the harvest.
White grapes are pressed, the must is allowed to settle to make it clearer, ready for fermentation. The red grapes, unlike the white, macerate for several days or even several weeks,
in their juice and their skins. This process gives the wine its colour and tannins. Fermentation
begins to work and only once fermentation and maceration have done their job are the
grapes pressed to obtain the new wine. White or red, the young wine is then matured for
several months.
Summer
As the vines grow, the grower continues to do what is called leaf work: removing the nodes
and tying the canes, cutting back long shoots. Early in the summer, when the vines have
finished flowering, the grower often needs to do a green harvest, cutting off some scarcely
formed bunches to control the size of the harvest. Several weeks later, when the grapes begin
to turn colour, known as the veraison, the grower will snip some of the leaves in order to
allow air to better move around the bunches. At this point there are no more treatments. The
grower will irrigate, if necessary, any young plants in order to ensure that the grapes ripen
correctly. This is the time when the cellar is readied for the harvest.
Winter
Winter is the period when wine is matured. The oenologist responsible for the vinification
process constantly tastes the wine during this time, no matter whether it is housed in tanks,
barrels or wooden vats. Depending on what it needs, he or she aerates the wines, racks and
refines them. This is the preparatory work for bottling in the spring, or, in the case of some
wines that are aged in barrel, bottling in the autumn. The wine is at rest during this time, but
not the winemaker! There is outdoor work to be done: pulling up vines that are no longer
alive, fighting erosion, working the soil, checking and maintaining equipment and buildings.
All this plus the most important work, pruning the vines, so that as winter draws to a close the
vines have the best conditions for budding and starting their annual cycle all over again.
winemakers and terroirs
The winemaker is as much a part of the terroir as the soil, the climate and the vine, tasked
with guiding and working with the natural forces that lie behind wine. Following the example
of the vine itself, where the grape variety is not the most important element contributing to
a quality wine, the winemaker is the link between the complexity of the vine’s elements and
the final, delightful product, the wine. Without the winemaker, there would be no wine! And
without great winemakers, no great wines.
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Grape-growing that respects nature
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Most of Europe’s major grape-producing regions turned at the end of the second world war
to methods that focused on quantity, which were not particularly in tune with nature. The start
of the 1980s was marked by greater awareness of ecological issues. The Valais government
was an early leader in this area and regulated the use of chemical treatments for plants.
This control was not so much systematic as dependent on weather and plant diseases. This
rational approach to grape-growing, ultimately behind integrated production (IP) methods,
considerably reduced the negative impact on the environment. A group of true pioneers, 150
producers following IP methods in 1989 fonded Vitival. Today more than 900 producers are
members and, working together with the Valais government, they ensure that grape-growing
respects the environment.
Other growers follow biodynamic methods, which include bio methods but which also aim
to reinforce the inherent strength of plants. Biodynamic growers avoid synthetic products but
they also work to stimulate plants to help them become healthy, balanced and more resistant
to disease. This philosophy starts from the principle that all living creatures work with cosmic
and Earth forces. Growers enrich the soil with specific concoctions, working in relation with
astral movements: the moon, the sun, planets. Biodynamic growers seek to produce good
wines that respect nature and that, by treating soil as a living organism, contribute to soil
balance and regeneration. They aim to offer consumers products that carry vital energy. As
with bio growing, biodynamic winemaking requires a personal investment but also more
work than classic methods.
Another group of growers is even more attentive to nature. Bio wine producers are growers
who refuse any use of synthetic products, including herbicides, insecticides and fungicides.
They use only natural products, for example copper and sulphur. Biodiversity is important to
them and planting between the vines is encouraged. They have a two-fold goal, to be more
respectful of nature and to harvest grapes that have no residual chemicals.
Valais grape production increasingly works closely in hand with nature.
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Valais grape varieties
A remarkable feature of Valais is its extraordinary mix of soil types, sun exposure and micro-climates: in short,
its terroirs. It is no surprise, then, that a number of grape varieties find perfect growing conditions here.
The oldest native grape varieties, such as Amigne, Arvine, Cornalin, Humagne and Rèze for some time
suffered as they were replaced by other, more contemporary varieties. Thanks to the efforts of a number of
growers and wine producers these traditional varieties have not only been saved but in some cases they are
being planted in relatively larger numbers. Traditional grape varieties are grown in many parts of the world,
but in Valais their special identity contributes to their attractiveness. They are part of what sets Valais wines
apart—to the point where they are so well known that varieties are often listed on labels. In other regions it
is usually the name of the domain or a brand that has pride of place.
Twenty years ago the Valais government put in place a very interesting programme designed to encourage
and preserve the diversity of the grape varieties in the canton. Hundreds of exceptional vines, some of them
100 years old, are collected in order for nurseries to work with them and ensure they don’t disappear. This
massale selection process, given the name Sélection Valais here, is the opposite of cloning, which takes
one plant, multiplying it over and over, almost indefinitely. Cloning produces vines that have the benefit of
being identical, but it also means they are more vulnerable. Sélection Valais helps preserve diversity in new
vineyard plantings, so important to maintaining healthy life, but also essential for creating wines that are
subtle and complex.
Main grape varieties
White grape varieties
Chasselas (Fendant) hectares
1050
Red grape varieties
Pinot Noir
hectares
1694
Sylvaner (Johannisberg) 235
Gamay
705
Arvine (Petite Arvine)
153
Syrah
158
Savagnin Blanc (Heida-Païen) 80
Humagne Rouge
128
Pinot Gris (Malvoisie) 74
Cornalin
116
Chardonnay 70
Diolinoir
88
Marsanne (Ermitage) 47
Merlot
87
Amigne 43
Gamaret
87
Muscat
39
Cabernet Sauvigon
23
Humagne
30
Pinot Blanc
25
Source :
State of Valais - Viticulture Office,
February 2010
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White wines and grape varieties
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Petite Arvine Serve at 8° -10° C
Petite Arvine is the internationally renowned white Valais wine. Its grape, Arvine,
which is genetically linked to grapes from Italy’s Val d’Aosta and neighbouring France,
has been grown only in Valais since 1602. It is a delicate grape, sensitive to wind,
and it ripens late. As a result it demands the most exposure to sun, but preferably not
in overly dry soil. Arvine gives a complete range of wines, each as exquisite and
interesting as the last: the nervy dry version with its aromas of wisteria and grapefruit;
the slightly sweet Petite Arvine with notes of rhubarb; and the many sweet flétris wines,
often exceptionally concentrated, with very intense aromas of a wide variety of exotic
fruits. In mouth, all of these wines are notable for their fine vinosity, supported by strong
liveliness and a slightly salty touch–the signature of Petite Arvine.
With food:
Dry wines—seafood, shellfish, alpine pastures cheese.
Slightly bubbly—foie gras in terrine, parsley cheese.
Fendant (Chasselas)
Serve at 8° -10° C
Chasselas is not a particularly Swiss grape nor is it specific to the Lake Geneva region, but
when grown in Switzerland it gives a wine that reflects this grape at its most subtle and complex. It is called Fendant in Valais because of a particular feature of the ripe grape: the skin
and pulp melt when pressed gently between fingers. The wine’s popularity rose dramatically
in the middle of the 19th century thanks to government support. Today it is the second most
planted grape variety, after Pinot Noir. An early and vigorous plant, Chasselas is noted for
its ability to adapt to many soils and micro-climates, bringing forth the subtlety of each terroir.
The aromatic profile—discreet, sharply clear—leaves room for the many nuances (floral, fruity,
mineral) provided by the vines’ environment. Fendant is often very slightly bubbly, always
playful, light and easy to drink, all of which makes it the perfect aperitif wine and just right for
any occasion when people get together.
With food: aperitifs, cheese-based dishes such as AOC Valais raclette and fondue, trout au
bleu.
“It has real character and style–definitely rush to learn more about this variety.”
Johannisberg (Sylvaner)
Serve at 8° -10° C
Sylvaner, known as Johannisberg in Valais, is the second most widely planted white grape
variety in Valais. It originated in Austria but has been planted mainly on the banks of the Rhine
in Germany. It came to the Rhone valley in the middle of the 19th century. It is sensitive to
disease and cold, but is nevertheless a vigorous plant. Sylvaner is so at home on soil that is
light, shistose and gravelly, in particular on dejection cones, that cantonal legislation dictates
where it can be planted. It is ready to harvest slightly later than Chasselas. The wine has notes
of infused flowers over a base of orchard fruits and almonds. In mouth, it has good vinosity
yet it remains a voluptuous wine. Its potential for aging and for developing greater complexity
are startlingly good—well beyond 20 years!
With food: aperitifs, asperagus—the rare wine that holds its own against the powerful charm
of this vegetable.
La Revue du Vin de France, February 2008
“Very few grape varieties can give wines with a high alcohol content that
maintain the capacity to improve with age. This is a great European grape.”
Olivier Poussier, World’s Best Sommelier 2000
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White wines and grape varieties
Païen or Heida (Savagnin Blanc)
Serve at 8° -10° C
When we talk about Paien, called Heida in Upper Valais, we’re referring to the Valais name
given to the white wine that comes from the Savagnin grape-which is also known as Traminer.
Gewurztraminer is a genetic mutation of this grape. The first recorded mention of it in Valais
was in the middle of the 16th century in the minutes of a meeting in the Visp (Viège) district,
but it is likely that it was grown in the region much earlier. Its name implies that it appeared
before Christianity. It was at first grown on slopes near Visperterminen, up to 1,100 metres
altitude, making these some of the highest vines in Europe. Today this variety is being more
widely planted, in French-speaking Valais as well German-speaking areas. Its wines offer a
range of notes from citrus fruits to exotic fruits, and in mouth they are delightfully long, blending vinosity, a sharp liveliness and structure. This is a wine that can be drunk young or after
several years in the cellar.
With food: mushroom fricassée, mountain pastures cheese, skewered fish with sauce.
Malvoisie (Pinot Gris) Serve at 8° -10° C
Pinot Gris, like Pinot Blanc, is a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir that changed colour spontaneously. In Valais its magnificent wines are known as Malvoisie. Like its forebear, Pinot Gris
has a compact bunch and is susceptible to disease. Also like Pinot Noir, it prefers the best
Valais slopes: the warmest, the best ventilated. It is nearly always harvested as withered
grapes for late harvest wine, sometimes graced with noble rot (Botrytis cinerea). It has a complex bouquet with notes of quince jelly, golden plum jam, honey, cooked fruits and oriental
spices. In mouth, it is unctuous and sweet. The small number of dry Malvoisie wines are wonderful to explore. No matter the type of wine, these wines, which are concentrated, vinous,
robust, soft and full, become wonderfully well balanced after some years of cellar aging.
With food: creamed chicken with mushrooms for the dry version, washed-rind cheese or foie
gras with the full-flavoured sweet version.
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Chardonnay Serve at 8° -10° C
Chardonnay was introduced to Valais during the 1920s and for a long time it was grown in
order to have a wine that is full-bodied, ripe and slightly sweet in the mouth. Over time tastes
changed and drier wines became popular; Chardonnay was gradually picked earlier in order to create wines that are fresh, with notes of white fruits and infusion flowers. These wines
are often matured in barrel, as is done in Burgundy. Chardonnay has another role in Valais:
it is used as the main grape in bubbly wines. The grape needs less time to ripen than many
other varieties, which means it can be grown near the tops of slopes in some areas.
With food: aperitifs with the bubbly wines, cheese platter for Chardonnay made in tank,
chicken and truffles terrine with Chardonnay matured in oak.
Ermitage (Marsanne) Serve at 8° -10° C
Marsanne arrived in Valais in the 19th century. It has its roots in the Côtes-du-Rhône region in
France, in particular the area of Tain l’Hermitage, which is where the name Ermitage, used
in Valais, comes from. This is a vigorous, late-ripening grape whose full potential is realized
when it has the best exposures, grown in dry soil that is not very rich, and the harvest is well
managed. It then gives wines that are full and rich, generous, often with notes of strawberry
and wild raspberry. In some years the grapes can be harvested late. The sweet wine that
results is a blend of richness, opulence, voluptuousness and subtle aromas of truffle, honey,
raspberry brandy. This is a wine that is always worth aging, whether it’s a sweet or dry one,
in order to let it fully develop its harmony.
With food: hard cheese, sweetbreads in cream and pumpkin soup with dry Ermitage; panheated foie gras with raspberry vinigar with sweet Ermitage.
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White wines and grape varieties
Muscat
Serve at 8° - 10° C
Muscat is one of the oldest known grape varieties in the Rhone valley, with evidence that it was
grown here in Roman times. It is relatively delicate, susceptible to fungal diseases, especially
gray rot. It grows well in poor soil and gives wines that are often dry, sharp and very aromatic
with primary notes that are musky and nuances of exotic fruits and rose petals. The intensity
and generosity of its fruit are most apparent when it is young.
With food: aperitifs, crayfish, asperagus.
Humagne
Serve at 8° - 10° C
This is one of the most typical Valais grapes. Note that it is not related to Humagne Rouge.
It was widely planted until the 19th century but by the start of the 20th century it had virtually
disappeared. Now, little by little, Humagne is making a comeback. It is a delicate grape that
requires good care and a carefully limited harvest. But when it is planted on the right slopes
it can give a surprising wine that is very pure, fresh, long in mouth, both subtle and elegant,
with notes of linden blossom. Its aromatic profile when young is similar to that of Fendant, but
with age this is a wine that has extraordinary qualities—an absolute must!
With food: aperitifs, lake and river fish.
Pinot Blanc
Serve at 8° -10° C
Pinot Blanc is a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir, and the two varieties are distinguishable only
by their difference in colour when the grapes mature. Pinot Blanc, like its cousin, is an early
grape, sensitive to disease but resistant to dryness. It gives a wine that is robust, vinous,
generous. It can be light on aromas but gives a full softness and backbone to blends.
With food: chicken mousse terrine, cheese platter.
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Amigne
Serve at 8° - 10° C
This native, traditional Valais grape was to be found only in a handful of vine parcels, mainly
around its home village of Vétroz, at the start of the 20th century. Since then, Amigne has
been far more widely planted, but the village, which is where the variety reaches its apex,
remains at the heart of its production. It is a late grape and produces wines that are generous,
full and often just slightly sweet, with orange and mandarin notes. The bunches are loose,
allowing air to move freely and the grapes to remain healthier for longer on the vine. Late
autumn sunlight brushes it warmly, giving the grapes a juice that is flavourful and very rich,
almost oriental in its flavours. These are wines that increase in elegance with age. Amigne,
whether dry or sweet, has an aging potential that is one of the best. After decades, the greatest
years are simply sublime.
With food: young chicken terrine and foie gras in jelly to accompagny a slightly sweet wine;
French pear tarte (tarte Tatin) with sweet wine.
And yet more...
Valais is rich in grape varieties. Some of these are grown the world over, such as Sauvignon,
which is a generous, flavourful wine with hints of wood. The granite soils of Fully are part of
a terroir for Viognier that resembles quite closely that of its birthplace, Condrieu in France.
The wine will enchant you, with its aromas of apricot. Valais is home to Riesling wines that
are full and dry, with a good liveliness, as well as some magnificent sweet wines. A small
number of vine parcels planted with Gewürztraminer produce wines with exotic aromas that
are flavourful and round, supple.
Anyone who loves exploring forgotten tastes from the past will find a wealth of wines to satisfy,
in Valais. Wines from varieties like Lafnetscha, Himbertscha and Gwäss are grown in Upper
Valais and are noted for their lightness and floral notes with a hint of smokiness. Rèze, too, is
a seductress. It was a popular variety until the vineyards were rebuilt in the middle of the 19th
century. The wine it gives is dry, very lively, with balsam notes.
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Red wines and grape varieties
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Cornalin
Serve at 14° -16° C
Cornalin is a cross between two Valdotan grape varieties. The first recorded mention
of it was at the start of the 14th century. It matures late, is a capricious and even
very capricious grape during production – it’s not difficult to understand why it was
nearly abandoned at the start of the 20th century. Fortunately the perseverance and
patience of several growers and producers, true visionaries, have made it possible
for us to drink these wines today. This is a wine that has an incredibly deep cherry
red colour with rich purple high-lights. Cornalin has a fruity strength that is out of the
ordinary, and when it is young it is almost impudent. It borders on the wild, with a
body that is both energetic and vinous, tonic and very fresh. This is beyond a doubt
the greatest of the Valais reds, with its notes of spicey clove and fruity black cherry. It
is delicious, with strong fruitiness when drunk young, but as it ages and calms down
its takes on a remarkable smoothness that is both elegant and classy. It becomes the
perfect companion for all strong meats, such as game.
With food: saddle of venison, whole roast pigeon.
Pinot Noir
Serve at 14° -16° C
Pinot Noir is the most widely planted grape in Valais, introduced in the middle of the 19th
century by the canton’s governing council in order to regenerate the wine industry, which was
going through a period of transition. Long reflection had led to this move, which resulted in a
spectacular increase in the area planted. Note that Pinot Noir, an early harvest variety that
supports both dryness and cold, was bound to succeed in Valais: it gives birth to very varied
wines, reflecting the enormous diversity of the terroirs. Pinot Noir is particularly successful in
the area around Salgesch Salquenen and Sierre, with their very active chalky soils. It has
also succeeded admirably on the left bank of the Rhone where the time needed to mature is
somewhat longer, perfect for the development of this grape’s complexity and fresh aromas. It
provides structure, classiness and elegance to doles when it is blended with Gamay. Thanks
to ambitious vinification, Pinot Noir has provided some magnificent wines in recent years,
especially if matured in oak when the yield has been mastered. This has become one of the
best red Valais wines whose best vintages are capable of aging well (five to eight years).
With food: poultry, stuffed quail.
“Wines with a velvety texture, yet that are remarkably fine.”
Gamay
Serve at 12° -13° C
Gamay, like Pinot Noir from which it is a genetic mutation, was introduced into the canton
during the major restructuring that went on in the 19th century. Its excellent reputation in the
Lower Valais, around Fully and Martigny, is linked to the presence of granite, much as is
the case with grand cru wines from Beaujolais. This is a variety that is moderately vigorous
and that ripens early. It gives purple-coloured wines that are very aromatic and high-spirited,
with notes of red fruits and spices; it is fresh and very drinkable. Vinified on its own this is
the flavourful par excellence wine of good cheer. Blended with Pinot Noir, it becomes dole,
known as a lively and fresh wine, intensely fruity.
With food: cold cuts (including warmed), quiches, fricassées.
Les Plus Grands Vins du Monde, by Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve
“Cornalin serves as the true phoenix of the vineyards of Valais.”
Jacques Perrin, August 2008
“Cornalin is to Valais what Pinot is to Côte de Nuits!”
Patrick Regamey, permanent member of the European Grand Jury
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Red wines and grape varieties
Syrah
Serve at 15° -17° C
Syrah is the grape behind France’s famous Côte Rôtie et Hermitage appellations. In climbing
back up the Rhone river this grape has, not surprisingly, found a second home. It was brought
to the canton in 1926 and is currently all the rage, for good reason: numerous top critics,
including the European Grand Jury, are saying that the Syrahs from Valais equal the best
international wines, including Syrahs from the northern Côtes du Rhône in France, Australia
and California. In Valais Syrah has a purple robe and is notable for its classy tannins. It has
wonderful notes of spices, black pepper and wild berries. Powerful, elegant–the best vintages
have a good aging potential of five to 10 years.
With food: large game, game birds, red meat, spicy lamb casseroles, magret de canard
with cherries.
Humagne Rouge
Serve at 14° -16° C
This variety comes from an old cross made in Val d’Aosta, Italy, between Cornalin and an
unknown variety. Humagne Rouge was introduced in Valais via the Great Saint Bernard pass
at the end of the 19th century. Despite its recent arrival it has become, after Cornalin, the
second great red wine with a Valais identity. It is a vigorous grape that ripens late and gives
wines that have a well steeped character; they seduce with their rustic aromas of wild fruits,
wooded undergrowth, bark, violets. In mouth, they are supple but the final is tighter. Humagne
Rouge, drunk young while still fruity, is a wine that has many fans. After three to five years in
the cellar, it is the perfect accompaniment to game.
With food: game in season and lamb, guinea fowl and pheasant on a bed of buttered
cabbage.
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Diolinoir
Serve at 14° -16° C
This is a Swiss grape variety created in 1970, the result of a cross between Pinot Noir and
Rouge de Diolly, also known as Robin Noir, introduced into Valais in the 1920s. It is a plant
of medium vigour, with good resistance to disease and rot. It ripens during the same period
as most Pinots and Gamay. Its wines are rich in colour, lively, and in mouth they have tight
tannins that make them good wines for aging, with cherry and black fruit notes.
With food: beef ribsteak grilled over vine cuttings, slow-cooked gigot of lamb.
Merlot
Serve at 14° -16° C
Merlot is among those varieties that ripen somewhat late. It is grown in virtually all major wineproducing areas, including Valais. It prefers vine parcels that are not too dry. Its ideal growing
conditions are clay soils, often at the base of slopes. The grape is a member of the Cabernet
family, with supple and silky tannins. It is popular thanks to its dark colour with violet highlights,
its vinous character, and its aromas of wild berries and chocolate. It is a charming wine on its
own but when blended with others the body and suaveness it offers are incomparable.
With food: meat with sauce (coq au vin, braised meats), beef fillet in pastry.
Gamaret
Serve at 14° -16° C
This young Swiss grape variety is a recent development, a cross between Gamay and
Reichensteiner. It is an early grape, productive and disease-resistant. It was initially planned
as a grape that would add colour to blended wines but producers quickly discovered it makes
a good wine on its own. Very rich in colour, dense yet lively, in mouth it has black fruit aromas
over slightly spicy, grainy tannins.
With food: duck brochettes, lentils.
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Red wines and grape varieties
Cabernet Sauvignon
Serve at 14° -16° C
Cabernet Sauvignon originated in the Bordeaux region. Today it is one of the most widely
planted varieties in the world. It ripens late and in Valais it has found soil but more particularly
a climate that suits it. It is a colored and lively wine, strong in tannins with notes of black
berries, tobacco, exotic wood. It becomes wonderfully expressive and has good harmony
when it matures at length in wood. What a pleasure it is to enjoy these dense, powerful and
very civilized wines, most often in blends!
With food : rosemary roast lamb, beef jarret.
And even more...
Serve at 14° -16° C
Valais offers a good range of other red wines. Some are international, such as Cabernet
Franc, with its elegant bouquet of black berries and graphite. Others are Swiss specialities,
created during the second half of the 20th century. This is the case for Garanoir, a wine that is
more generous and round, less tannic but as rich in colour as its brother Gamaret. Then there is
the very original cross between Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon called Carminoir: a very
lively wine with spicy aromas which appeared in Valais only at the start of the 21st century
(2000), designed to give body to blends. Several old, native grape varieties are still grown
in Valais. Durize, which is also called Rouge de Fully, is from the same family as Cornalin.
This is a difficult grape to grow but when planted in well exposed areas, and in a good year,
it gives wines with character that are wild, rough–in short true mountain wines. Upper Valais
has its very rare Eyholzer Roter, similar to grapes grown in northern Italy. These are sometimes
grown in pergola and give a wine that is light, clear, aromatic, with little tannin. It is best drunk
cool, often to accompany a platter of coldcuts.
blended wines and Rosé wines
Dole and blended wines
Serve at 14° -16° C
Dole is a light-hearted Valais wine that is the offspring of the two most widely planted red grapes in Valais,
Pinot Noir and Gamay. Together they account for 85 % of the vines, with Pinot Noir the majority grape variety.
Other red grapes may be included in the blend: Gamaret, Garanoir, Carminoir, Ancellotta, Diolinoir, Merlot
and Syrah are all used. Some add colour to the wine, others give structure and tannins while yet others add
a touch of aromatic fun. The ever-present Valais Dole is capable of a multitude of expressions, reflecting the
terroirs and producers. Each one is a new discovery.
In the wake of elegant Dole, winemakers have gradually developed other white and red blends. These
are wines clearly designed by producers whose creativity is centred around the complementary aspects of
different grape varieties. Robust, powerful, ambitious and original: these wines are often matured in oak and
are very good with hearty, well-flavoured dishes.
Rosé wines
Serve at 8° -10° C
Canton Valais, with its warm and sunny climate, lends itself naturally to rosé wines. The best time to enjoy
these is the middle of summer, on a shady terrace, with one of the two specialties, Œil-de-Perdrix and Dole
Blanche, served well chilled (8°C). Œil-de-Perdrix is made only from Pinot Noir and has a colour range that
runs from slightly golden to a deep rich salmon. This is a true wine, in the sense that it is not a byproduct
made from a red wine but a completely separate wine. Its colour depends on the length of time the grape
skins remain in contact with the must before fermentation sets in. Classy, velvety, in mouth it is often carried
by a fresh liveliness. It is an excellent aperitif wine, or it can be served with light summer meals such as cold
dishes, mixed salads, country buffet foods.
Dole blanche is made from the same grapes as dole, but it is vinified as a white wine, in other words without
leaving the grape skins to macerate. It is very light in colour and fruity in mouth. This is a generous, vinous
wine which often has a soft finish. It links the charm and freshness of a white wine and the comfort of a red.
This is also ideal as an aperitif, with tapas, Asian dishes or spicey and even peppery foods.
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Sweet wines
Few grape-growing areas in the world are suitable for making great sweet wines, called
liquoreux in French to denote sweet but also top quality. Valais is part of this small and privileged group: its late harvest wines are the equal of those of France—Sauterne, Coteaux du
Layon, Riesling Auslese—and Tokaji Azu from Hungary. Sweet wines are without any doubt
one of the great strengths of Valais wines!
Valais provides the perfect setting for grapes to wither naturally on the vine in autumn. The
climate is exceptional, with dry late autumns, a high amount of sunshine, warm during the
day and cool at night, rosy sunrises, a mix of winds including the famous dry foehn. Such
late harvests are often happily accompanied by the development of noble rot (the famous
Botrytis cenerea), that magician which creates indescribably fine aromas. The best plants are
found on the steepest slopes, which tend to have excellent ventilation and exaggerate climatic
conditions, giving rise to sweet wines that are among the best in the world.
The Charte Grain Noble ConfidenCiel was created in 1996. It accounts for much of the
success today of the sweet wines of Valais. Some 30 producers have banded together to
encourage this tradition of great wines made from vine-dried grapes. These producers sign a
charter agreeing to respect rules whose key points are to:
• use traditional Valais grape varieties planted in the best areas and from vines that are at
least 15 years old: Petite Arvine, Ermitage, Johannisberg, Amigne, Paien and Malvoisie.
• leave the grapes to develop a high level of natural sugar in the must (minimum 130 degrees
Oechslé, without adding sugar)
• let the wines mature a minimum of 12 months in wood, either casks or barrels
• the Grain Noble ConfidenCiel is given only after an internal tasting session by the group,
which retains wines judged sufficiently worthy.
“Quality grape selections, aromatic in their expression, good harmony
despite the dense residual sugar that can reach 260 grams: these sweet
Valais wines are among the great sweet wines of Europe.”
La Revue du Vin de France, February 2008
Matching food and wine
Valais has such a great variety of wines that countless pairings of food and wine are possible.
Whether these are classic matches or highly original, the numerous possibilities are well worth
trying.
With dry white wines
Most dry white wines can be served as aperitifs, at 8° et 10° C. This is when their surprising
qualities, the very specialness of these wines, is most readily appreciated. The liveliest among
them—Petite Arvine, Paien which is also known as Heida, Humagne—are excellent with
grilled fish, shellfish, seafood platters and hard cheese. Note that in general it’s best to
avoid serving an oaky white with shellfish because the iodine and wood notes rarely complement each other.
With white wines with some residual sugar
Gently soft wines such as Amigne, Ermitage, Malvoisie and Petite Arvine are wonderful with
foie gras, creamed poultry dishes, pumpkin soup and blue cheese. An important bit of
information if you want to be sure of successfully matching wine and food: some bottles of
Amigne de Vétroz carry small labels that show the amount of residual sugar. One bee on the
label indicates less than 8 grams of sugar per litre. Two bees: under 25 grams, three bees:
wines whose sugar content is high.
With flétris and sweet white wines
Wines made from grapes withered on the vine (flétris), when drunk young, are high in sugar
content and are best served with warm fruit-based desserts such as French apple pie (tarte
Tatin). When these wines are older, as liquoreux wines they are beautiful served with foie gras
or parsley cheeses whose rinds have been washed.
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Matching food and wine
Light reds
Reds that are young and lively, such as Dole, Gamay and Pinot Noir accompany grandmother’s dishes wonderfully well: country buffets, stewed or fried meats served in their gravy
(fricassée) and roasts. Consider serving them slightly chilled, at 14° C, which gives them
added interest.
Livelier reds
These are also young, but have more structure: Cornalin, Syrah, Humagne Rouge, Pinot Noir
matured in oak and Merlot, for example. These are perfect with red meat, grilled meat and
shishkabobs or skewered meats. Left to age in the cellar they develop into wines that are
perfect with game and mushroom dishes.
Use your imagination
Set aside for a moment the classic combinations and try something new! Explore the unlimited
potential of each grape variety, including those produced in very small quantities. Why not,
for example, try a Gewuerztraminer with Asian food or a Chardonnay with jellied chicken.
Riesling with sushi is another interesting option, or Viognier with an alpage goat cheese,
Himbertscha with a fish tartar. The same applies to reds–try Diolinoir with leg of lamb or
Cabernet Franc with stuffed peppers, or Carminoir with braised beef. There are so many
combinations that will surprise and delight you!
The classics
The assiette valaisanne is a platter of finest quality local products that includes a variety of
alpage (alpine pastures) cheeses, dried meats, ham and mountain bacon. It is traditionally
served with a chilled white wine that is fruity and lively, such as Fendant, Paien and Rèze. It
can also be served with Œil-de-Perdrix or a fruity and light red wine served slightly chilled:
Dole or Gamay.
the interprofession de la vigne et du vin du valais
The Interprofession de la Vigne et du Vin du Valais was founded in 2000. It is a
non-profit association whose members are, in equal parts, producers (winemakers,
cellars and the cooperative, Provins Valais) and wholesalers.
It has responsibility for working with the canton of Valais, where it represents the
interests of the industry: economic, quality standards, marketing.
In 2007 the Interprofession de la Vigne et du Vin du Valais was awarded the title
Valais Excellence, after an audit, for answering to the ISO 9001 standard for quality
and ISO 14001 for environment.
The labels are a clear indication that the organization shares the values which lie
behind the Valais label.
Les Vins du Valais team is particularly sensitive to the need for quality and respect
for sustainable development to be central to its offer.
To highlight the quality and diversity of AOC Valais wines, the Interprofession de la
Vigne et du Vin du Valais organizes several events, including:
• Les Vins du Valais Wineries Open Day, a major event on the wine calendar:
Ascension weekend in May.
• La Sélection des Vins du Valais, a competition with judges who are professionals,
which takes place every spring and autumn and awards gold and silver stars to
the best producers.
• The Valais Wine Route, a wine tourism trail from Martigny to Leuk.
www.cheminduvignoble.ch
To learn more about the activities of the Interprofession de la Vigne et du Vin du Valais:
www.lesvinsduvalais.ch.
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Editorial
Steve Bettschen and Interprofession de la Vigne et du Vin du Valais
English translation
Ellen Wallace
Design and layout
Graphem, Guillaume Faisant - Morgan Thurre
Printing
Centre d’impression Montfort-Schœchli SA, Martigny – Roberto Fracasso
Photo credits
Michel Martinez
Giorgio Skory
Michel Villars
Christine Zurbriggen
© geodata, swisstopo
© Provins, Médiathèque Valais - Martigny
Acknowledgments
State of Valais, Viticulture Office
© The contents of this brochure are the property of the Interprofession de la Vigne et du Vin du Valais.
Printed in February 2010 - Printed in Switzerland.