Innovation Zone - in
Transcription
Innovation Zone - in
2012 Innovation Zone Discover the latest ingredients, formulations and the most innovative beauty products Unique ingredients under the spotlight NEW Select formulations Skincare, haircare & colour cosmetics showcased Awards Ceremony Media Partner Bangkok, 6-8 November 2012 In association with Bangkok, 6-8 November 2012 2012 Innovation Zone 1. Latest Ingredient Launches 2. Select Formulations NEW 3. Colour Cosmetics, Haircare and Skincare 4.Awards 1 3 2 4 1 1. Ingredient Launches & Exclusive Formulations Pages 5-26 Traditionally, the Innovation Zone is all about new ingredient launches and showcasing some finished products. For the first time this year, formulations have been introduced to demonstrate how the new ingredients on display can be incorporated in a formulation. There’s no better place to visit to discover an exciting range of new ingredients and personal care products, check global trends and draw inspiration for your next product launch or marketing campaign. 2.Beauty Trends Move Across the World Pages 29-40 Asia will be the dominant marketplace by 2015, with Western beauty companies not only investing in their business in markets such as China, India and South Korea, but also finding inspiration in them to bring back to the West. At the same time, Asian players will take greater control of their own markets, while moving in on Western markets and brands, too. This year’s product showcase in the Innovation Zone by market research company Mintel presents the latest innovation in skincare, haircare and colour cosmetics from around the world. Interactive Product Demonstrations Twice a day, Mintel’s beauty analysts will offer interactive product demonstrations that showcase the latest technology, active ingredients, positioning claims and packaging trends that travel the world. Don’t miss this opportunity to see, touch and test the latest concepts from mass market and prestige beauty brands! Daily demonstrations take place on: Tuesday 6 November Wednesday 7 November Thursday 8 November 12:00-12:30pm & 3:30-4:00pm 12:00-12:30pm & 3:30-4:00pm 11:00-11:30am & 2:00-2:30pm 2 Expert-led Trend Presentations Join Vivienne Rudd, Director of Insight, Beauty and Personal Care at Mintel who will be looking at Beauty Trends moving from East to West and also Mobile Technology in the Beauty Industry. Tuesday, 6 November 14:00-14:30 (Marketing Trends Theatre) Anti-Ageing, Whitening, BB Creams: Beauty Trends And Innovation Move Across the World Wednesday, 7 November 11:00-11:30 (Marketing Trends Theatre) Access Anything Anywhere – Mobile Technology in the Beauty Industry Join Jane Henderson - Mintel’s Global President, Beauty & Personal Care Division - for a review of the hottest trends and exciting opportunities in haircare. (What’s next in hair colourants, treatments, styling products and shampoos & conditioners?) Tuesday, 6 November 14:30-15:00 (Workshop Theatre) What’s Hot and What’s Next in Haircare Speak to our Expert Analysts Mintel’s Beauty and Personal Care team will also be on hand through-out the show at the Innovation Zone to offer you personal advice and opinion on all the products and trends featured. 3. Awards Ceremony Join us on the Innovation Zone for a recepion from 18:00 where we will reveal the winners of two prestigious awards. When: Wednesday 7 November Where: On the Innovation Zone Time: 18:00 - 19:30 (the Awards will be announced at 18:30) Best Ingredient Award The Award will be given to honour the development of a novel active or functional ingredient that combines innovative science and product features that demonstrates benefits to manufacturers and to end-users when compared with existing ingredients. Entries Exhibitors with a new ingredient product displayed in the Innovation Zone. Judges • Judi Beerling, Technical Research Manager, Organic Monitor • Dr Jack Ferguson, Skinnovation • Dr Alain Khaiat, Seers Consulting • Prof Karl Lintner, KAL’IDEES S.A.S. Beauty Ideas • Dr Panvipa Krisdaphong, President IFSCC & SCCT • Dr Aran Puri, President, Cosmeceutical Solutions Cosmetics & Toiletries R&D Award - Asia Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine will present their first ever Asian R&D Awards at in-cosmetics Asia 2012. The Awards recognises the science behind the final innovative technology and the most creative application and will honour one new cosmetic/personal care raw material and one new finished product targeted to the Asian market. NEW Entries Participants are associated with a raw material or finished product specifically targeted to the Asian market & launched between August 2011 and November 2012. Judges Nominations are reviewed by an esteemed panel of international experts, who select the winners for two categories—Best New Ingredient and Most Creative Application. 3 About Mintel Beauty & Personal Care We believe staying ahead of the market requires more than current data analysis, leading industry expertise or reliable service. It requires the seamless melding of all these. Mintel is an independent award-winning provider of world-leading market intelligence, delivering robust information, analysis and critical recommendations. Mintel’s trusted portfolio of proprietary industry solutions and products has been supporting high profile clients for 40 years. Amongst other sectors, Mintel is the recognised authority in the beauty & personal care industry, serving more than 3,000 brands and their suppliers worldwide. Our specialist team offers expert in-depth analysis of new products, markets, consumers and trends in the beauty and personal care space – delivered via an online platform. We don’t only pinpoint what’s hot now but more importantly predict what’s next – allowing you to stay one step ahead of your competitors and industry movements. With an expanding global presence, our worldwide office locations include London, Chicago, New York, Shanghai, Tokyo, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Mumbai and Sydney. The Mintel team are always happy to hear from you - please feel free to contact us on [email protected] or visit bpc.mintel.com for more information. Mintel is the official partner of the Innovation Zone at in-cosmetics Asia 2012. SPC Asia Magazine Stand: A39 SPC is the media partner for the Innovation Zone. Soap, Perfumery and Cosmetics is the essential monthly magazine for readers who work in the cosmetics and toiletries industry. SPC reports on all sides of the cosmetics story – the science, the packaging and the marketing. The magazine will keep you informed on industry news from breakthroughs in formulations and new raw materials to the latest fragrance bottle designs and news of the biggest product launches. In addition to SPC and SPC Asia, CosmeticsBusiness.com is the online home for all the magazine content. To receive breaking news about your industry sign up for our free newsletter www.cosmeticsbusiness.com or follow us on twitter @cb_beautynews. To receive your copy of SPC or SPC Asia magazines subscribe at www.hpcimedia.com. 4 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 1. SELASTIN INCI: Water, Butylene glycol, Ecklonia cava extract, Hizikia fusiforme extract, Codium tomentosum extract,Gelidium cartilagineum extract, Phenoxyethanol Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: BIOLAND D30 [email protected] www.biolandkorea.com biological, marine extracts, biofermentation, natural actives Product Description: ‘Jeju Island’ is located in a southern part of Korea and is famous for its uncontaminated clean nature and it was chosen as one of ‘New 7 Wonders of Nature’ in 2011. BIOLAND has developed a new product, ‘SELASTIN’ which is an extract of 4 sea plants (Ecklonia cava, Hizikia fusiforme, Codium tomentosum and Gelidium cartilagineum) from Jeju Island sea with BIOLAND’s cutting edge technology for pore and desquamation treatment. Formulation Product name: Pore Treatment Lotion containing Selastin Ingredients PHASE A B C D E F TRADE NAME Montanov 68EC Arlacel 60V Tween 60 IPM CEH Dimethicone 100CS Tocopheryl Acetate Xanthan Gum EDTA-2Na Betaine Butylene Glycol Glycerin Bio-Sodium Hyaluronate 1% Solution (J Type) Water Carbopol 981 Water Perfume Microcare SB Phenoxyethanol Selastin INCI-NAME Cetearyl alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside Sorbitan Stearate Polysorbate 60 Isopropyl Muristate Cetyl Ethylhexanoate Dimethicone Tocopheryl Acetate Xanthan Gum EDTA Betaine Butylene Glycol Glycerin Water, Sodium hyaluronate Phenoxyethanol Water Carbomer Water Sodium Benzoat Phenoxyethanol Water, Butylene glycol Ecklonia cava extract Hizikia fusiforme extract Codium tomentosum extract Gelidium cartilagineum extract Phenoxyethanol 5 W/W% 2.00 0.30 1.00 2.00 1.00 0.50 0.50 0.05 0.10 0.10 5.00 2.00 3.00 to 100 0.10 10 Q.S 0.50 0.50 3.00 Test it on the Zone Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 2. Colla-Gain™ INCI: Maltodextrin, Alcohol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Punica Granatum Flower Extract Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Cosmetochem International AG B30 [email protected] www.cosmetochem.com anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, botanicals, essential oils, plant extracts, natural actives Product Description: Colla-GainTM is a pomegranate flower-derived from two component-based, anti-ageing active that not only promotes collagen synthesis but also decreases the breakdown of collagen by inhibiting MMP-1 production. It is supported by both in vitro and in vivo claims data and has the following properties: Stimulates collagen build-up in the skin (vitamin C component) l Inhibits collagen breakdown (pomegranate flower component inhibits MMP-1) l Increases skin density l Smoothes skin and reduces appearance of wrinkles l Protects skin against UV exposure l Preservative-free and solvent-free Formulation Product name: “Young-a-Gain” Eye Cream containing Colla-GainTM Ingredients PHASE INGREDIENT INCI A Deionised Water Citric Acid 50% Glycerin Water Water, Citric Acid Glycerin B Tego Care 450 Tego Alkanol 6855 Myritol 318 Jojoba Oil cold pressed Preservative Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate Cetearyl Alcohol Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil C Deionised Water Colla-GainTM Water Maltodextrin, Alcohol, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Punica Granatum Flower Extract Procedure • • • • • Mix A and B separately and heat to 75°C Add B to A and homogenise. Cool down to 40°C whilst stirring Mix C separately and add. Homogenise shortly Cool down whilst stirring to RT If needed, adjust pH-value to approx. 7.3 with either citric acid 50% or sodium hydroxide 10% 6 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 3. Epitex™ 66 Polymer INCI: Acrylates Copolymer Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Dow Chemical Company B60 [email protected] www.dowpersonalcare.com film former, additives Product Description: EPITEX™ 66 Polymer provides formulators of sun care and skin care products with a new solution to improve the sensory appeal of their formulations. EXPITEX™ 66 Polymer provides longer-lasting water resistance, improved skin feel and ease of processing as compared to competitive water resistance technologies. Formulation Product name: Water-proof SPF 30+ Sunscreen containing Epitex™ 66 Polymer Ingredients PHASE A B C TRADE NAME Deionized Water ACULYN™ 38 Rheology Modifier PURENE™ Glycerin VERSENE™ 100 Chelating Agent SunSpheres™ PGL SPF Booster Cerasynt 840 Arlacel 165 Stepan IPP UCON™ Fluid AP Parsol 1789 Homosalate Escalol 567 Escalol 587 Escalol 597 AMP ULTRA PC2000 D Tinosorb M LDK T30 EPITEX™ 66 Polymer E Perfume NEOLONE™ CapG Preservative INCI/CTFA NAME Water/Aqua Acrylates/Vinyl Neodecanoate Crosspolymer Glycerin Disodium EDTA Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer PEG-20 Stearate Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEF-100 Sterate Isopropyl Palmitate PPG-14 Butyl Ether Butyl Methoxydibenzolymethane Homosalate Benzophenone-3 Octisalate Octocrylene Aminomethyl Propanol Methylene Bis-benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol/ Bisoctrizole Silica Acrylates Copolymer (proposed) Fragrance/Parfum Methylisothiazolinone (and) Caprylyl Glycol Procedure Manufacturing Instructions: 1. In a vessel, add at room temperature the ingredients of Phase A and heat to 75OC with stirring until uniform. 2. In a separate vessel, combine the ingredients of Phase B and heat to 75OC with stirring until uniform. 3. Add Phase B to Phase A with homogenization. Add Phrase C. 4. Homogenize for 7 to 10 minutes. Switch to sweep mixing and cool to 45OC. 5. Add the ingredients of D, stirring thoroughly with each addition. 6. Add the ingredients of E, then homogenize for 3 minutes. Then cool to temperature with stirring. PH Vis. 7 7.26, 9300 CPS % Wt. 31.17 1.25 1.00 0.10 19.60 2.00 5.00 4.00 3.00 3.00 10.00 4.00 5.00 3.00 0.15 4.00 0.50 2.13 0.20 0.90 Test it on the Zone Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 4. MoistStar™ HA+ Moisturizing Agent INCI: Polyquaternium 67 (and) Hyaluronic Acid Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Dow Chemical Company B60 [email protected] www.dowpersonalcare.com moisturizer Product Description: MoistStar™ HA+ provides longer lasting surface skin moisturization for skin care products like gel; lotion or cream. Formulation Product name: Deep Moisturizing Cream containing MoistStar™ HA+ Ingredients PHASE C INGREDIENT DEIONIZED WATER CARBOPOL 980 (2% SOL’N) DISODIUM EDTA BUTYLENE GLYCOL LIPOWAX D (Cetearyl alcohol (and) ceteareth20) MYRITOL 312 ‘DC 200 FLUID 100 CST PANALANE L14E LIPOMULSE 165 (Glyceryl stearate and PEG 100 Stearate) TRIETHANOLAMINE (99%) TO PH 6.0-6.5 D MOISTSTAR HA+ 8.00 E NEOLONE PE 0.55 A B % WEIGHT 57.75 15.00 0.10 2.00 2.00 7.50 2.00 3.00 1.75 0.35 TOTAL 100 Procedure Manufacturing Instructions: 1. Heat Phase A to 70C. Heat Phase B to 70C 2. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix until uniform 3. Cool to 60C and add Phase C slowly and mix until uniform 4. Cool to 45C and add Phase D. Mix until cooled to 25-30C 5. Add Phase E and mix until uniform PH 6.25 Vis. 9600 CPS 8 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 5. Dermofeel®GO soft INCI: Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Dr Straetmans GmbH F54 [email protected] www.dr-straetmans.de sensitive skin / soothing Product Description: Dermofeel®GO soft is a natural food-approved emulsifier for W/O formulations. In general, W/O concepts are frequently used for sun care and baby products, as well as for intensive skin care, mature skin and protective concepts. However, water-in-oil products are not very popular for their sensorial profile. The rich and caring concepts are generally perceived as heavy and greasy on the skin by the consumer. Dermofeel®GO soft is a versatile W/O emulsifier with a unique skin feel. It converts water-in-oil creams into soft and pleasant formulations that are easily applied to the skin. The heavy sensorial profile of W/O formulations that gives them an old-fashioned touch will soon belong to the past. The additional benefits of Dermofeel®GO soft are that it is economic in use and the concentration required is very low. Formulation Product name: GO soft Body Balm containing Dermofeel®GO soft Ingredients PHASE INGREDIENT Deionised Water Glycerol (85%) Verstatil PC A Rona Care Allantoin Panthenol 75 W Zinksulfate Heptahydrate B dermofeel® GO soft Beeswax 8104 Cutina HR Pulver Buriti Oil refined dermofeel® sensolv Cegesoft SBE dermofeel® Toco 70 non-GMO B1 Magnesium Stearate dermofeel® MCT Phytosqualan, veg. grade Perf. Lemon Grapefruit Natura Nat. 209-840 INCI Aqua Glycerin Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol Allantoin Panthenol Zinc Sulfate Polyglyceryl 2-Sesquioleate Cera Alba Hydrogenated Castor Oil Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil, Tocopherol Isoamyl Laurate Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Magnesium Stearate Tricaprylin Squalane Parfum SUPPLIER % Merck Dr. Stratemans Merck BASF Merck 7.00 0.80 0.25 1.00 1.00 Dr. Stratemans Kahl Gmbh & Co. KG BASF Beraca* Dr. Stratemans BASF Dr. Stratemans 2.00 2.00 1.00 0.10 7.00 2.00 0.20 Appli Chem Dr. Stratemans Sopjim Düllberg 0.50 7.00 6.00 0.50 Total 100.00 * distributed in Germany by Dr. Straetmans GmbH Procedure Specification Values: Appearance: white gel-cream. Viscosity (Brookfield: Helipath TF; Speed 10): Approx. 40.000 50.000 mPa.s. Centrifugation (4000rpm, 15min.): No separation. Stability: Stable for more than 3 months at 20°, 40°, 4°C. Microbiological Stability: Proven. Heat phase A up to 80°C under stirring. Adjust pH-value to 5.1 – 5.3. Heat phase B1 up to 115°C under strong stirring until a clear solution is obtained. Add rest of phase B and heat up to 80°C. Emulsify phase A slowly, stepwise to phase B under stirring. Homogenize for 1-2 min. using an Ultra Turrax. Start to cool down under stirring. Add phase C below 30°C. Homogenize for 1 min using an Ultra Turrax if necessary. 9 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 6. SYN® - TC INCI: Glycerin, Aqua, Tetradecyl, Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric, Urea Trifluoroacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: DSM Nutritional Products H10 [email protected] www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle Product Description: Looking young and beautiful is widely accepted to be a source of professional success and personal happiness. Collagens play a major role in the skin ensuring proper functionality and thus perfect smooth, young-looking skin. Whilst traditional anti-ageing approaches mostly focus on dermal collagen type I,SYN®-TC follows a more holistic approach that focuses on total collagen care. This innovative product further extends DSM’s successful SYN®-Peptides product range, offering an exciting new anti-ageing cosmetic ingredient with rapid action for skin smoothing. Extended in vivo studies using macro photographs and computer-based 3-dimensional skin imaging have confirmed a visible skin smoothing benefit in only 28 days. Formulation Product name: Total Collagen Rejuvenating Serum containing SYN®-TC Ingredients PHASE INGREDIENTS INCI NAME % W/W A KSG-16 KF-995 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone Cyclopentasiloxane B Water dem Glycerin 99.8 % PF Aqua Glycerin C Cosmedia SP Keltrol CG T D E SUPPLIER 5.00 5.00 100553 100553 ad 100 5.00 100601 Sodium Polyacrylate Xanthan Gum 0.30 0.20 100327 100400 SYN®-TC Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxybutyrate, Glycerin, Aqua, Magnesium Chloride 2.50 100288 Optiphen Plus Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid 0.90 100184 The Total Collagen Rejuvenating Serum is a slightly opaque serum, which is easy to spread and refreshes the skin during application. It instantly refines skin’s texture and results in a light and silky smooth feeling. Procedure Mix ingredients of parts A, B and C separately. Add phase C to A while stirring. Add phase B to the mixture while stirring. When serum is homogeneously distributed likewise add phases D and E and homogenize shortly. Adjust pH to 5.5 – 6.0 if necessary. Technical Data pH: 5 . 5 – 6.0 Viscosity(Brookfield RV4/10rpm): 4220 mPa s Supplier 100288 DSM Nutritional Products 100327 BASF 100601 Emery Oleochemicals 100400 CP Kelco 100184 ISP 100553 Shin-Etsu Silicone 10 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 7. TILAMAR® FIX A140 INCI: Acrylates Copolymer Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: DSM Nutritional Products Asia Pacific H10 [email protected] www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com aerosols, propellents, Product Description: TILAMAR® Fix A140 enables ultimate hold and fast drying without stickiness, despite the formulation’s increased water content. Its properties have been proven in professional hairdresser tests, in which it outperformed market-leading benchmarks. The combination of ultimate hold and fast drying creates attractive new opportunities for product development. Formulation Product name: FINISHING HAIRSPRAY for ultra-strong hold and fast drying - TILAMAR® Fix A140 Ingredients PHASE INGREDIENTS INCI NAME % W/W SUPPLIER A Ethanol TILAMAR® Fix A140 AMP Ultra PC 2000 Dow Corning 193 Fluid PARSOL® MCX Pö Color Express 351580 Alcohol Acrylates Copolymer Aminomethyl Propanol & Water PEG-12 Dimethicone Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Fragance 53.17 6.00 0.59 0.06 0.06 0.12 100229 100288 100513 100098 100288 100106 B DME Dimethylether 40.0 100031 Test it on the Zone Procedure Technical Data Viscosity sprayable Neutralized 100% 1. Ethanol and Aminomethyl Propanol are mixed under stirring 2. TILAMAR® Fix A140 is added under fast stirring and dissolves instantly 3. All other components are added one after the other 4. After filling of the bulk solution (phase A) in an appropriate aerosol can and closed with the respective valve, Dimethylether is added. Supplier 100288 DSM Nutritional Products Ltd 100098 Dow Corning GmbH 100106 Symrise GmbH & Co. KG 100513 Angus Chemie GmbH 100229 Merck Switzerland AG 100031 Frike Aerosol AG 11 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 8. GATULINE® RADIANCE INCI: Propanediol (and) Evodia Rutaecarpa fruit extract Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Gattefossé H30 [email protected] www.gattefosse.com anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, botanicals, essential oils, plant extracts, lightening, whitening agents, natural actives Product Description: Discover the new active ingredient from Gattefossé, for a young and fresh complexion which makes skin complexion more even.Its original mechanism of action makes it possible to obtain an efficacy that is directly visible on the skin. Gatuline® Radiance, acts on skin microcirculation, improving skin nutrition, giving more luminosity and vitality. Its visible action can be measured even when used alone in the formulation. The action of Gatuline® Radiance guarantees healthy, young, fresh looking skin. The face is revitalized and regains color, luminosity and a more even appearance. Formulation Product name: BB CREAM SF 1284/F containing Gatuline Radiance Ingredients PHASE A B C INGREDIENTS INCI NAME ® Cetyl Alcohol (And) Glyceryl Stearate (And) Peg-75 Stearate (And) Emulium Delta (1) Ceteth-20 (And) Steareth-20 Dow Corning 200 Fluid 350 Cs (2) Dimethicone Mod (1) Octyldodecyl Myristate Cetiol Sensoft (3) Propylheptyl Caprylate Cocoate Bg (1) Butylene Glycol Cocoate Parsol Mcx (4) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Parsol 340 (4) Octocrylene Unipure White Lc 981 Em (5) Titanium Dioxide (Ci77891) Unipure Yellow Lc 182 Em (5) Iron Oxides (Ci 77492) Unipure Red Lc 383 Em (5) Iron Oxides (Ci 77491) Unipure Black Lc 989 Em (5) Ci 77499 Preservative Demineralized Water Vivapur® Cos 5 (6) Glycerin Satiaxane Cx91 (7) Gatuline® Radiance (1) Synerlight 2 (1) Malt Secrets (1) Perfume Nirvana Soins Arx 30214 (8) Water Microcrystalline Cellulose (And) Cellulose Gum Glycerin Xanthan Gum Propanediol (And) Evodia Rutaecarpa Fruit Extract Butylene Glycol (And) Actinidia Chinensis (Kiwi) Fruit Water (And) Alcohol (And) Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract Propanediol (And) Water (And) Hordeum Vulgare Seed Extract % W/W 5.00 4.00 5.00 4.00 1.00 6.00 2.00 8.00 0.45 0.25 0.08 1.00 52.72 2.00 5.00 0.20 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.30 1) GATTEFOSSE SAS / (2) DOW CORNING / (3) BASF / (4) DSM Nutritional Products / (5) LCW/SENSIENT / (6) J. RETTENMAIER & SÖHNE / (7) CARGILL / (8) AROMAX Procedure Manufacturing Process: 1. Disperse Vivapur Cos 5 into water (20 min), then Satiaxane CX91 (10 min) under rapid mixing. 2. Heat A to 75°C. 3. Prepare B and heat to 75°C, mix under ultra-turrax for 5 min , heat again to 75°C. 4. Under rapid mixing (3000 rpm), add B to A. 5. Maintain under rapid mixing (3 000 rpm) for 10 min. 6. Cool under normal mixing and at about 35°C, add C. 7. Complete cooling. Properties: pH = 5.5 +/- 0.5. – Appearance: Bright and pale beige cream 12 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 9. DELISENS™ Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Lipotec F38 [email protected] www.lipotec.com sensitive skin / soothing Product Description: DELISENS™ is an innovative hexapeptide which is directed at treating several inflammatory and/or pruritogenic skin disorders by inhibiting the PAR-2 activity-mediated cytokine release. As a result, it attenuates feelings of discomfort or itching in sensitive skin while helps to recover its physiological tolerance threshold. Moreover DELISENS™ helps to restore the barrier function of skin and tissue integrity while providing a photoprotective effect. Formulation Product name: Anti-Wrinkle Serum For Sensitive Skin containing DELISENS™ Ingredients PHASE A B INGREDIENTS Water (Aqua) Betain Disodium Edta Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin % BY WEIGHT q.s.p 100 2 0.3 1.5 4 3 3 0.5 2 4 2 E Isononyl Isononanoate Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Tocopheryl Acetate Delisens™ Solution (Hexapeptide-46) Antarcticine® C (Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract) Polymethyl Methacrylate F Benzyl Alcohol, Salicylic Acid, Glycerin, Sorbic Acid G Sodium Hydroxide, Water (Aqua) Q.s. H Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer 0.3 C D 1 Fragrance (Parfum) I 0.15 Test it on the Zone Procedure 1. Dissolve phase A in an adequate vessel for the whole content. 2. Add phase B slowly while stirring until it is dissolved. 3. Mix the components of phase C In a separate vessel and add slowly to the previous mixture while stirring. 4. Add phase D slowly while stirring until it is incorporated. 5. Add phase E slowly while stirring until dissolved. 6. Add phase F slowly while stirring until it is incorporated. Adjust pH to 5.8 – 6.3 with phase F. 7. Add phase H slowly while stirring until it is incorporated. 8. Add phase I and stir until the mix is homogenised. Properties pH = 5.5 – 7.0 Viscosity = 800 – 3200 cps (5/100) 13 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 10. Body3 Complex™ INCI: Bentonite (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract (and) Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Fruit Extract Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Lucas Meyer Cosmetics B30 [email protected] www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com anti-cellulite, slimming, anti-inflammatory, anti-irritants, soothing agents, botanicals, essential oils, plant extracts, natural actives Product Description: Body3 Complex™ is a unique cosmetic active ingredient which combines a triple action on cellulite, firmness and stretch marks due to the synergistic combination of three ingredients: sustainable non-torrefied shea butter extract and avocado seed extract both entrapped in bentonite. Body3 Complex™ differentiates itself from other slimming agents with its unique stimulating action on the ZAG pathway to induce lipolysis with a complementary action to caffeine. Body3 Complex™ is able to stimulate SKALP (SKin-derived AntiLeukoProteinase), an elastase inhibitor, thus preventing dermis degradation providing a firmer skin and limiting cellulite development. Due to high continent of silanols, Body3 Complex™ stimulates skin Formulation Product name: Ultra-Reshaping Body3 Gel-Cream 12.166.01 C128 Ingredients PHASE INGREDIENT Deionised Water Dermofeel™ PA-12* A Glycerin Granlux® AOX GL* Ecogel™ Sweet Almond oil B Cetiol Sensoft DermofeelTM G5DO* Body3 Complex™ C D E F G Isocell™ Slim NC Deionised Water Aerosil 300 Sveltessence™ Dermorganics™ 1388* Bella Vita INCI NAME Water Sodium Phytate Glycerin Glycerin (and) Picea Excelsa Extract Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan Gum (and) Pullulan Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil Propylheptyl Caprylate Polyglyceryl-5 Dioleate Bentonite (and) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Extract (and) Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Fruit Extract Caffeine (and) Sodium Salicylate (and) Lecithin (and) Silica Water Silica Glycerin (and) Water (and) Nephelium Longana Seed Extract Fragrance Fragrance 1.00 5.00 20.00 0.50 2.00 4.00 0.20 Test it on the Zone Procedure 1. Heat A, B and D up to 70-75°C. 2. Add Ecogel TM maintain under medium stirring for 20 mins. 3. Add B into A under medium stirring and maintain for 5 mins to emulsify. 4. Increase stirring rate up to maximum level with a rotor stator blender for 1 min. 5. Add C under maximum stirring (5000 rpm) and mix until homogeneous. % 53.1 0.20 3.00 1.00 2.00 5.00 2.00 1.00 6. Add D slowly into ABC under medium stirring. 7. Cool down under medium stirring. 8. Add D, E, F and G below 40°C. Adjust the pH if necessary. Viscosity (Rheo ELV 8, spindle 4, 6 rpm, 3 mn): 20 000 - 35 000 mPa.s pH: 5.0 - 5.5 14 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 11. The Flawless Duo Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Lucas Meyer Cosmetics B30 [email protected] www.lucasmeyercosmetics.com biological, marine extracts, biofermentation, exfolients, lightening, whitening agents Product Description: Hands and décolleté are very susceptible to the development of age spots as they are frequently exposed to the sun, and tend to be forgotten when applying sun protection. The Flawless Duo fades and removes age spots on hands and décolleté. Featuring ß-White™, an innovative biomimetic whitening peptide and Exo-T™, an exotic exopolysaccharide inducing desquamation, this duo reduces the appearance of existing age spots while preventing the development of new ones. This combination reduces the color intensity and spot size after only 14 days and continues improving skin aspect over time. Consumers have a 95% satisfaction rate for lightening effect on spots. Applications can be for hands, décolleté and facial care. Formulation Product name: BB Cream Formula containing Ingredients PHASE INGREDIENT A B C D E F G Deionised Water Dermofeel™ PA-12 Phenoxetol Chlorphenesin Glycerin Ecogel™ Biophilic™ H Dermofeel™ G10L Cetiol CC Dermofeel™ BCG Lipex 102 DC 200, 10cs Parsol 1789 Parsol 340 Parsol EHS Dermofeel™ Toco 70 nonGMO White Covasop W9775 Yellow Covasop W1771 Brown Covasop W8770 Black Covasop W9774 Exo-H™ ß-White™ Exo-T™ Capt-System™ EQ-10 Neutrazen™ Riboxyl™ RonaFlair Extender W Dry-Flo® TS Relax 2020/2 INCI NAME % Water Sodium Phytate Phenoxyethanol Chlorphenesin Glycerin Lysolecithin (and) Sclerotium Gum (and) Xanthan gum (and) Pullulan Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) C12-16 Alcohols (And) Palmitic Acid Polyglyceryl-10-Laurate Dicaprylyl Carbonate Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter Dimethicone Buthyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Octocrylene Ethylhexyl Salicylate Tocopherol (and)Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil Propylene Glycol (and) CI 77891 Propylene Glycol (and) CI 77492 Propylene Glycol (and) CI 77491 Propylene Glycol (and) CI 77499 Butylene Glycol (and) Alteromonas Ferment Filtrate Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Hydrogenated Lecithin (and) Sodium Oleate (and) Oligopeptide-68 (and) Disodium EDTA Butylene Glycol (and) Vibrio Alginolyticus Ferment Filtrate Glycerin (and) Lecithin (and) Dicaprylyl Ether (and) Water (and) Tocopherol (and) Ubiquinone (and) Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Dextran (and) Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8 Ribose Mica (and) CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide) Tapioca Starch Polymethylsilsesquioxane Fragrance 53.40 0.10 0.80 0.30 3.00 1.00 4.00 1.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 3.00 6.00 5.00 0.30 6.00 1.20 0.30 0.10 1.00 1.00 1.00 0.50 0.30 0.50 1.00 1.00 0.20 Procedure 1. Heat A and B up to 75-80°C. Mix Ecogel with glycerin then add to A under stirring. When fully dispersed, add phase C and keep it at 70-75°C under medium stirring for 20 mins. Add E to phase 2. ABC and keep stirring to homogenize. Heat up phase D to 7580°C. Poor phase D and stir for 5 mins. 3. Homogenize using a rotor-stator, 3 mins at 3000rpm. Cool down to room temperature under gentle stirring. 4. Add phases F and G. Viscosity (Rheo ELV-8, spindle 4, 3 mn, 6 rpm): 20 000 - 23 000 mPa.s pH: 6.0 - 7.0 15 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 12. DermCom INCI: Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Mibelle Biochemistry D58 [email protected] www.mibellebiochemistry.com anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, natural actives Product Description: DermCom provides a smart strategy for rejuvenating the skin matrix deep in the dermis. It achieves this by stimulating the communication between epidermal and dermal cells. This dialog which is crucial for a youthful appearance is mediated by growth factors that are impaired with age. DermCom has shown to improve skin texture thanks to its growth-factor like activity. It boosts collagen and elastin production and renews the skin’s resilience and firmness. This novel active is based on the bulbs of Crocus chrysanthus. Also known as “Cream Beauty”, this flower is a universal symbol of rejuvenation and youthfulness. Formulation Product name: Dermal Rejuvenation Cream containing DermCom Ingredients PHASE A APPLICATION /TRADE NAME Solvent Chelating Agent Thickening Agent Thickening Agent Moisturizing Agent Solubiliser/Activity Enhance B O/W Emulsifier Emollient Emollient Moisturiser Texturizing Agent Preservative Antioxidant C Neutralizing Agent D Solvent PhytoCellTec Argan DermCom E Perfume INCI Aqua/Water Disodium EDTA Xanthan Gum Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Methylpropanediol Ethoxydiglycol Cetyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-75 Stearate (and) Ceteth -20 (and) Steareth-20 Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Waxpolyglyceryl-3 Esters Hydrogenated Ethyl Hexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil C10-18 Triglycerides Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and) Propylparaben (and) Isobutylparaben Tocopheryl Acetate Triethanolamine Aqua/Water Argania Spinosa Sprout Cell Extract (and) Isomalt (and) Lecithin (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Aqua/Water Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract (and) Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Aqua/Water Fragrance 3.00 1.00 5.00 2.00 5.00 0.70 0.30 0.10 10.00 1.00 2.00 0.1 Test it on the Zone Procedure 1. Mix phase A under strong agitation and heat up to 70°C 2. Mix phase B and heat up to 70°C 3. At 70°C pour phase A into phase B under strong agitation and homogenize to homogeneity 4. Add Triethanolamine under strong agitation 5. Cool down under agitation % W/W 63.4 0.10 0.20 0.10 4.00 2.00 6. Disperse PhytoCellTec Argan and DermCom into water and add phase D below 40°C 7. Add perfume 8. If necessary adjust pH to 5.5-6.5 using NaOH or Citric acid Disclaimer: The information contained in this publication is provided in good faith and is based on our current knowledge. No legally binding promise or warranty regarding the suitability of our products for any specific use is made. Mibelle Biochemistry will not assume any expressed or implied liability in connection with any use of this information. 16 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 13. VIRGIN ECOLOGICAL DEODORIZED ARGAN OIL INCI: argania spinosa, kernel oil Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: MOGADOR ARGAN OILS J44D [email protected] www.mogador-argan.com anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, anti-cellulite, slimming, antioxidants, radical scavengers, botanicals, essential oils, plant extracts, hair growth Product Description: Argan oil has essential virtues in facial, hair and body care. Wellness centers use it for body care or massage, beauty salons for facial and hair treatments. It is also a fantastic basic product for cosmetics. New: The Virgin Ecological Deodorzed Argan Oil Deodorized, odour neutral, clear yellow colour. Produced without distillates, without pressure without Water and without temperature. Extra filtered with natural active carbon and with deodorized, natural diatomaceous earth. Advantages: 2 in 1 product: Deodorizing but still Virgin Argan Oil. Eco-friendly, water saving production no water used, no temperature, no pressure, during the Deodorizing, compared to normal steam deodorizing. natural content of tocopherols maintained. Low in price compared to the steam Deodorized Argan Oil. Information Hair: 95% Pur Argan oil VIRGIN ECOLOGICAL DEODORIZED + 5% odour Expl: Monoe, for Hair spray with Arganoil. Skin and Face: Facial Oil – Argan & Apricot (rich in Natural Vitamin A & E) 60 & Apricot Oil + 40% Argan oil for facial application. Creams: Argan oil can be also used as source of Tockopherols and unsaturated fatty acids for the different types of creams. 17 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 14. LIFTONIN®- XPRESS Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: RAHN AG F68 [email protected] www.rahn-group.com anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, biological, marine extracts, biofermentation, film former, natural actives Product Description: Instant winkle reduction is a major target of anti-ageing cosmetics. The instant tightening active ingredient LIFTONIN®-XPRESS is based upon a revolutionary technology transfer: the development of edible film used in the food industry.LIFTONIN®-XPRESS contains a lyophilisate made from the Microalga Porphyridium cruentum with Phycocolloids embedded in a film matrix made from natural polymers. The physical tightening effect is intense, immediately noticeable and lasts for several hours. Various types of wrinkles are visibly and measurably minimised. LIFTONIN®-XPRESS is effective in aqueous solutions as well as in creams and smoothes the eye area by up to 74% within one hour. Formulation Product name: LIFTONIN®- XPRESS Instant Lifting Gel - 4D Face Lift 2 in 1 Ingredients ID: FACE Care / 700103.0001 ID-number: 001.001 pH-value: Approx. 6.3 Appearance: Transparent, colourless gel Product form: Gel Skin type: Normal Skin PHASE SUBSTANCE A Water demin. Euxyl PE 9010 LIFTONIN®- XPRESS B Carbopol Ultrez-10 Carbopol Ultrez-20 C NaOH solution 10% INCI NAME USA Water Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Pullulan, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract Carbomer Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Sodium Hydroxide, Water % W/W 95.95 1.10 2.00 MANUFACTURER several Schuelke & Mayr, DE RAHN AG, CH 0.15 0.10 Lubrizol, US Lubrizol, US 0.70 several Procedure 1. Prepare Water, add Euxyl PE 9010 while stirring 2. Add LIFTONIN®- XPRESS while stirring, let it swell for about 10 minutes, the phase must be free of lumps 3. Mix B, add while stirring 4. Stir until 1/2 is completely homogenous 5. Add C while stirring, adjust pH if necessary Disclaimer: Utilisation of this document or parts thereof as well as product names for commercial or industrial applications is subject to explicit written approval by RAHN AG. This information is based on our own experience to date and we believe it to be reliable. It is intended only as a guide to use at your discretion and risk. We cannot guarantee favourable results and assume no liability in connection with its use, or the use of the methods or products described. None of this information is to be taken as a license to operate under, or a recommendation to infringe patents. 18 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 15. Miracare SLB Series Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Rhodia Asia Pacific Pte Ltd F20 [email protected] www.rhodia.com dispersants, suspending agents, rheology modifiers, thickeners, surfactants, anionic, cationic, amphoteric, nonionic Product Description: This innovative approach with Miracare SLB Series provide fragrance enhancement & delivery benefits versus conventional formulation, adding strong sensory cues to end cleansing products. Product name: Glamotheraphy Body Wash containing Miracare SLB Series. Formulation Glamotherapy Body Wash containing Miracare SLB Series Ingredients InCI Name FUNCTION Wt, % Carrier QS to 100 Chelating Agent 0.05 Surfactant 35.00 Conditioning polymer 0.35 Rice Bran Oil (3) (Oryza Sativa Bran Oil) Moisturizer 12.00 BHT Antioxidant 0.05 Citric Acid, 50% pH adjuster qs Sodium Chloride (25%) Stabilizer 14.0 Glam Elixir Fragrance (4) Fragrance 2.00 Preservative 0.10 Water Dissolvine Na (Disodium EDTA)(2) Miracare SLB-365/N(1) (Sodium Trideceth Sulfate, Sodium Lauroamphoacetate, Cocamide MEA, Methylisothiazolinone) ® Jaguar® C-17(1) (Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride) Neolone® 950(2) Suppliers: (1) Rhodia (2) Dow (3) Ikeda (4) Takassago This moisturizing, lotion-like body wash features our Structured Surfactant Liquid technology with Miracare® SLB-365/N. This system enables the suspension of high levels of insoluble oils. The addition of Jaguar® C-17 aids in delivering the oil and the therapeutic Glam Elixir fragrance to the skin. Procedure Add water to main vessel and start mixing at low to med speed. Add Miracare SLB-365/N and mix until uniform. 6.In a separate vessel, add BHT to rice bran oil and mix until BHT is dissolved. Once dissolved, add Jaguar C-17 and mix until fully dispersed. 7.Add oil premix to the main batch with increased mixing speed, ~250 rpm, and mix until uniform. 8.Reduce mixing speed to ~150 rpm for the remainder of the batch. 9.Adjust pH with 50% citric acid to pH 5.0-5.5. Test it on the Zone 10. Add sodium chloride and mix for 30 minutes or until uniform. 11. Add preservative, fragrance, etc. and mix until uniform. Typical Properties Appearance: White, viscous, creamy liquid pH @ 25°C: 5.0-6.0 Viscosity, cps @ 25°C: 10000-15000 cps Storage-Stability: Stable for 3 months (25°C ; 45°C ; 4°C) 3 cycles of Freeze/Thaw 19 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 16. LEONTOCELLTM INCI: Glycerin, Leontopodium, alpinum extract, xanthan gum Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Sederma H48 [email protected] www.irbtech.com; www.sederma.fr anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, antioxidants, radical scavengers, biological, marine extracts, biofermentation, botanicals, essential oils, plant extracts Product Description: LEONTOCELLTM is a green biotech highly performing wrinkle filler cosmetic ingredient obtained from Edelweiss cell cultures and standardized in the same natural protective substances that allow the plant to survive in its native harsh environment. A minimum amount of Leontopodic acid A, a strong antioxidant 3 times more efficient than Vitamin C, is guaranteed. LEONTOCELLTM highly reduces eye contour wrinkles, prevents the collagen loss and it is indicated for firming and restructuring treatments. Formulation Product name: Hitech Natural Wrinkle Filler containing LEONTOCELLTM Ingredients PHASE TRADE NAME INCI NAME A Demineralized water Glycerin water glycerin 70,6 2 B Emulgade PL 68/50 Lorol C18 - Lanette 18 Dubodol - Isofol20 N/F Cetiol 868 - Saboderm OS Vitabiosol S-Panalane L-14E Apricot oil Oenothera oil Aperoxid TLA cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl glucoside stearyl alcohol octyldodecanol ethylhexyl stearate hydrogenated polyisobutene prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil ascorbyl palmitate, citric acid, lecithin, tocopherol 4 1,5 8 8 1 0,5 0,5 0,1 C Euxyl PE 9010 LEONTOCELLTM ethylhexylglycerin, phenoxyethanol Glycerin, Leontopodium alpinum extract, xanthan gum 0,8 3 Total % W/W 100 Procedure 1. Heat the components of Phase A to 75°C (+/- 5°C), then mix for 5’ (+/-1’) with turbo-emulsor 2. Heat the components of Phase B to 80°C (+/- 5°C) 3. Under stirring, add Phase B to Phase A, mix 40’ (+/-1’) under vacuum 4. Cool to 30°C (+/-5 °C) while stirring 5. When T< 35°C, add Phase C and mix for 25’ (+/-2) with turboemulsor 6. The final pH should be between 5.0 and 6.0 20 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 17. NATPURE®O’ GEL V Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: SENSIENT COSMETIC TECHNOLOGIES G18 [email protected] www.sensient-cosmetics.com rheology modifiers, thickeners Product Description: Natpure® O’Gel V is a natural transparent oil thickener derived from renewable sources, an optimal combination of specific grades of sucrose esters manufactured with sorbitol & glycerin. Its main benefits are natural, green label Ecocert compliant (Cosmos pending), easy to use, easy to process & preservative free. Natpure® O’Gel V is the solution to create innovative formulations: Shea Butter transparent gel, colored oily gels regulatory approved for all cosmetic products, rinsable Shea Butter pre-wash oil for hair. Formulation Product name: TW 1927 PRE-WASH OIL Ingredients PHASE A B COMMERCIAL NAME Glycerin Natpure O Gel V HMF Pionier 2079P Natpure Feel-M Eco Covabsorb SUPPLIER INCI NAME Glycerin Sucrose Laurate, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Aqua Mineral oil Isopropyl Palmitate, Isostearyl Isostearate, Octyldodecanol, Octyldodecyl Myristate Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate Sensient Cosmetic Technologies Hansen & Rosenthal Sensient Cosmetic Technologies Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 36.00 3.00 1.00 Test it on the Zone Procedure 1. Blend phase A. 2. Blend phase B. 3. Add phase B to phase A very very slowly (drop by drop) under mechanical stirring. Centrifuge to remove bubble. % W/W 32.00 28.00 Supplied by Natpure Feel-M Eco Natpure O Gel V Covabsorb 21 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 18. WHITE OPTIMAL CARE Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: SETALG FP19 [email protected] www.setalg.com exfolients, film former, lightening, whitening agents, natural actives, formulation services Product Description: Setalg will propose a complete whitening care, with cosmetic powder and personal care product, studies specially to give a top efficacy of each component. Our leitmotiv: Take the best of powder cosmetic & personal care product to bring a real added value to professional treatments. This concept is to improve whitening treatments by making them more active and attractive, thus increasing customer satisfaction. 22 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 19. SHARON BIOMIX Blends INCI: phenoxyethanol, glycerine, citrus reticulata fruit extract, citrus aurantium amara fruit extract, citrus sinensis peel extract, ascorbic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, aqua Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Sharon Laboratories Ltd C60 [email protected] www.sharon-labs.com/en/ preservatives Product Description: SHARON Laboratories developed alternative preservative systems, a range of broad spectrum products based on unique organic citrus extracts. This new family of products, named SHARON BIOMIX, is designated for the preservation of personal care products without compromising on the performance. These Formaldehyde & Paraben free blends are ideal for leave-on and Rinse-off products, soluble in water and commonly used solvents, may tolerate elevated temperatures, work in a wide pH range and recommended use level of these products is less than 1%. Formulation Product name: Face Cream with Sharon Biomix Products Ingredients PHASE A B C D INGREDIENT (INCI) Water Glycerin Glyceryl monostearate Cetyl alcohol Squalane1 PEG 40 Stearate Sorbitan Tristearate Caprylyc / Capric Triglycerides BHT Vitamin E Acetate Alpha Bisabolol Dimethicone Cyclopentasiloxane Lauroyl Lysine Glycerin (and) Butylene glycol (and) aqua (and) Carbomer (and) Polysorbate 20 (and) Palmitoyl oligopeptide (and) Palmitoyl tetrapeptide-72 Sharon Biomix Preservation system3 Fragrance (optional) 2.00 0.8 0.2 Test it on the Zone Procedure 1. Mix the components in Phase A and heat the solution to 75ºc 2. Mix the components of the Phase B while heating to 75ºc. Wait for the waxes to completely dissolve. 3. Mix the Phase A with Phase B. Homogenize for 15 minutes. Cool the cream to 40ºc. 4. Add Phase C to the cream while stirring. 5. Add Phase D to the cream while stirring. 6. Homogenize the cream for 1 minute % W/W To 100 3.00 3.00 3.00 1.00 1.50 0.40 3.00 0.05 0.20 0.10 0.50 2.00 1.00 1. Phytosqualane 2. Matrixyl 3000 by Sederma 3. The Sharon Biomix products may as well be added to the water phase prior to heating 23 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 20. VEDERINE® INCI: Water and Cichorium intybus (Chicory) Root Extract Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: SILAB E30 [email protected] www.silab.fr anti-ageing, anti-wrinkle, natural actives Product Description: Rich in oligofructosans from chicory (Cichorium intybus), VEDERINE® is a restructuring active ingredient able to restore the cutaneous homeostasis modified with age, by targeting the key regulator of vitamin D metabolism in the skin which is the Vitamin D Receptor (VDR). VEDERINE® restores the functions of the VDR and thus stimulates the molecular network involved in terminal differentiation of keratinocytes. Barrier function is reinforced and the recuperation capacity is accelerated. With a proven “Vitamin D -like” effect, VEDERINE® enables mature skin to recover an optimum epidermal barrier without UV exposure. Recommended in all care for mature and devitaminized skin. 24 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 21. Nisarg™ Soapnut Extract INCI: Sapindus Mukorossi Fruit Extract Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Vivimed Labs Ltd C29 [email protected] www.vivimedlabs.com botanicals, essential oils, plant extracts, natural actives, oral care Product Description: Vivimed’s Nisarg™ Soapnut Extract is derived from naturally extracted saponins from the Indian Soapnut tree, Sapindus Mukorossi. Soapnut has been used as a traditional natural surfactant in India for generations. In comparison to more alkaline synthetic detergents which can cause irritation and dryness, Soapnut has a pH in balance with the skin’s natural pH making it a much milder surfactant. Soapnut is readily dispersed into aqueous formulations to form a rich and stable lather. It can be used in a wide variety of personal care formulations from shampoos and face washes to toothpaste. Formulation Product name: Shower Foam containing Nisarg™ Soapnut Extract Ingredients PHASE A B C INCI Aqua Xanthan gum Glycerine Sapindus mukorossi (Nisarg Soapnut Extract) Citric acid Decyl glucoside Cocamidopropyl betaine Aloe barbadensis leaf juice powder Allantoin Benzyl Alcohol, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone Aminomethyl propanol Citric acid Test it on the Zone Procedure PHASE A 1. Weigh deionised water. 2. Stir whilst heating gently to 30oC. 3. Once at 30oc maintain heat and create a vortex. 4. Add Xanthan gum slowly until fully dissolved. 5. Add Glycerine slowly whilst mixing. 6. Increase mixing speed and add Soapnut. Mix until fully dissolved. FUNCTION Thickener Humectant Surfactant pH adjuster Secondary surfactant Secondary surfactant Moisturiser Moisturiser Preservative pH adjuster pH adjuster PHASE B 1. Premix Decyl glucoside and Cocamidopropyl betaine. 2. Add premix to PHASE A and mix. PHASE C 1. Add Aloe and Allantoin slowly whilst mixing. 2. Add preservative and mix. 3. Allow to cool with stirring. 4. Adjust to pH if required. 25 Media Partner Ingredient Launches & Formulations In association with 22. ManozeTM INCI: Oryza sativa (rice) bran extract, Pueraria mirifica extract, polysorbate60, cholesterol, cyclodextrin, BHT Company: Stand: Email: Web: Category: Welltech Biotechnology Co Ltd G59 [email protected] www.welltechbio.com colorants, colour enhancers, hair dyes/colouring, pigments, glitters, hair growth, natural actives Product Description: ManozéTM is the innovated choice for reversing your hair color to the original and stabilization of hair pigment. The natural ingredients in ManozéTM create the synergistic effect of traditional secret recipes in hair anti-aging. ManozéTM is transfollicularly delivered to hair follicle by special encapsulation technology from Welltech. Formulation Product name: ManozeTM Ingredients PHASE A B C D TRADE NAME Manoze Deionized water Nipagin Nipasol Propylene glycol Carbopol 980 Propylene glycol Deionized water Triethanolamine 99% INCI NAME Oryza sativa bran extract, Pueraria Mirifica Extract, Polysorbate 60, Cholesterol, Cyclodextrin, BHT Aqua Methyl paraben Propyl paraben Propylene glycol Carbomer Glycerin Aqua Triethanolamine Procedure 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. Phase A: disperse Manoze in deionized water Phase B: dissolve methyl paraben and propyl paraben in propylene glycol Phase C: disperse carbomer in mixture of glycerin and deionized water Add Phase A and Phase B in Phase C. Stirring until completely homogeneous. Add Phase D, stirring until completely homogeneous. 26 CHARACTERISTICS % W/W Powder Liquid 10.70 % 30.00 % Powder Powder Viscous liquid Powder Viscous liquid Liquid Viscous liquid 0.18 % 0.02 % 0.80 % 0.30 % 3.00 % 54.22 % 0.60 % The most widely distributed magazine in the Asia Pacific Region with the most targeted readership profile – addressing scientific and technical issues relating to the formulation, development and manufacture of personal care products – in three key languages. Published by: Step Communications Ltd. Step House, North Farm Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 3DR, UK. Tel: +44 1892 779999 Fax: +44 1892 616177 Email: [email protected] COMMUNICATIONS www.personalcaremagazine.com 27 Reach Thailand. Read 28 COLOUR COSMETICS The transmission of trends and technology between East and West has never been one-way traffic, something that is increasingly obvious in the colour cosmetics category and BB cream is the most visible symbol of this fluidity. As BB creams tend to be regarded more as multi-functional make-up than a skincare item in the West, Asian brands are increasingly adding make-up claims to the product too. Powder formats are also coming through. While this format may have limited appeal in the West, another version of BB cream, CC cream, may have more resonance as brands seek shelf stand-out. CC cream stands for colour control, a feature of other sectors of Asian make-up. Amore Pacific’s Innisfree has introduced the concept to its Mineral Tone Changer, a powder formulated with Jeju natural mineral and organic green tea, which is said to change skin tone naturally from a warm tone to a cool tone. Another fascinating example of this cross-pollination is the recent patisserie trend in make-up packaging with Asian manufacturers creating lines under licence of Western patisserie brands. 29 COLOUR COSMETICS Media Partner In association with 1. Ciaté - Caviar Manicure Set Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Ciaté Ciaté Nail Colour Cosmetics France 25.16 Product Description Ciaté Caviar Manucure (Caviar Manicure Set) is available in the shades: Rainbow; Black Pearls; and Mother of Pearl. The product is retailed in a pack containing: 1 x Ciaté Vernis à Ongles (Paint Pot Nail Polish) (15ml) (068 Fun Fair); 1 x Micro-Perle (Caviar Pearls) (13.5g); 1 x Funnel; and 1 x Tray. It is designed to last 48 hours and is said to provide 3-dimensional nails for an instantly feminine, sophisticated, indulgent yet delicately extravagant look. It has not been tested on animals. Ingredients nail polish: butyl acetate, ethyl acetate, nitrocellulose, phthalic anhydride/trimellitic anhydride/glycols copolymer, acetyl tributyl citrate, isopropyl alcohol, stearalkonium bentonite, triphenyl phosphate, N-butyl alcohol, styrene/acrylate copolymer, silica,benzophenone-1, diacetone alcohol, trimethylpentanediyl dibenzoate, polyvinyl butyral, alumina, +/- may contain (mica, calcium aluminium borosilicate, calcium sodium borosilicate, synthetic fluorphlogopite, calcium oxide, sodium oxide, polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, ethylene/VA copolymer, acrylates copolymer, polyacrylate-4, CI 77000, CI 77891, CI 15850, CI 15880, CI 19140, CI 77510, CI 77491, CI 77499, CI 77163, CI 77742, CI 47005, CI 77288, CI 77007, CI 77266, CI 12490,CI 74160, CI 74260, aluminium hydroxide, tin oxide) pearls: glass beads 2. Bobbi Brown - BB Cream SPF 35 Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Bobbi Brown Bobbi Brown Face/Neck Care USA 42.00 Product Description Bobbi Brown BB Cream SPF 35 features a lightweight and easily buildable texture that is designed to blendflawlessly with any skin tone, offering more coverage than a tinted moisturizer, but less than a foundation. Suitable for normal to oily skin types, the cream is designed to moisturize, perfect and protect, instantly and over time, while controlling excess surface oil, thanks to its natural absorbing minerals. Inspired by a skincare/makeup hybrid that is a cult favorite in Asia, the product features a formula that combines a moisturizer, treatment, SPF and a lightweight foundation in one. It is enriched with water-attracting molecules that attract moisture to skin as emollients and offer long-term hydration; light reflective pearls, to instantly brighten dull skin; botanical extracts, such as scutellaria extract, caffeine and sucrose to reduce discoloration and redness, and work over time to help create a clearer, more even skin tone; wrinkle-fighting argireline peptide that boosts skin’s natural collagen production and minimizes pores; vitamin E and rice bran extract, to protect from free radical damage; and broad-spectrum UVA/UVB protection to fend off future damage. The product is available in the shades: Light; Extra Light; Fair; Medium; and Medium to Dark. Ingredients active ingredients: octinoxate (7.50%), octisalate (4%), oxybenzone (2.50%), titanium dioxide (1.10%) inactive ingredients: water (aqua), dimethicone, butylene glycol, phenyl trimethicone, pentylene glycol, glyceryl stearate, behenyl alcohol, trioctyldodecyl citrate, polymethylsilsesquioxane, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, PEG-40 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, triticum vulgare (wheat) germ extract, hordeum vulgare (barley) extract, cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract, laminaria saccharina extract, pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract, scutellaria baicalensis root extract, polyquaternium-51, acetyl hexapeptide-8, trehalose, oryzanol, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, urea,polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, propylene glycol laurate, glycyrrhetinic acid, tocopheryl acetate, sucrose, glycerin, sodium stearoyl lactylate, caffeine, linoleic acid, cholesterol, lecithin, squalane, sodium PCA, isopropyl titanium triisostearate, propylene glycol stearate, stearic acid, polysorbate 20, sorbitan laurate, xanthan gum, aluminium hydroxide, sodium hyaluronate, silica, disodium EDTA, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, sodium dehydroacetate, chlorphenesin, phenoxyethanol, +/- may contain (mica, titanium dioxide (CI 77891), zinc oxide (CI 77947), iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499)), ILN37231 30 COLOUR COSMETICS Media Partner In association with 3. Isehan Heroine Make - Mascara Remover Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Isehan Isehan Eye - Cleansers Japan 10.95 Product Description Isehan Heroine Make Mascara Remover N, previously known as Kiss Me Heroine Make Mascara Remover, has been relaunched with new packaging and a new brand name. The improved product features a more concentrated formula to melt mascara, and is claimed to be more effective in removing waterproof makeup speedily. The product is said to instantly remove waterproof mascara whilst caring for lashes with emollient ingredients such as ginseng, camellia, royal jelly and rose hip. According to the manufacturer, the product removes robust makeup without damaging the lashes. It is formulated without colourant, fragrance, alcohol and surface active agent. It has been tested for stinging. The outer pack features a QR code. The product was launched on 1st February, 2012 for 882 yen. Ingredients isohexadecane, triethylhexanoin, mineral oil, PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, isododecane, butylene glycol, C30-45 alkyl methicone, C30-45 olefin, tocopherol, squalane, camellia japonica seed oil, rosa canina fruit oil, panax ginseng root, royal jelly extract, propylparaben 4. The Face Shop Neo Classic Homme - Grooming Camo Cream Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: The Face Shop The Face Shop Neo Classic Homme Multi-Use South Korea 7.25 Product Description The Face Shop Neo Classic Homme Grooming Camo Cream is for millitary use. It can be applied quickly and easily providing excellent coverage. The product is also said to be easily removed. It retails in a pack containing 3 x 6g shades (Khaki; Black; and Dark Brown). Ingredients dark brown: diisostearyl malate, isononyl isononanoate, talc, isopropyl myristate, titanium dioxide, iron oxides (CI 77492, CI 77491, CI 77499), microcrystalline wax, polyethylene, silica, ozokerite, dimethicone, caprylic/capric glycerides, tribehenin, butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, triethoxycaprylylsilane,tocopheryl acetate, vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil, gardenia flower extract, cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, citronellol, geraniol, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, linalool, fragrance khaki: isononyl isononanoate, talc, isopropyl myristate, ultramarines, iron oxides (CI 77492, CI 77499),microcrystalline wax, polyethylene, silica, ozokerite, dimethicone, caprylic/capric glycerides, tribehenin,butyrospermum parkii (shea butter), polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, triethoxycaprylylsilane, tocopheryl acetate, vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil, gardenia flower extract, cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, citronellol,geraniol, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, linalool, fragrance black: talc, isononyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, isopropyl myristate, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene,silica, ozokerite, dimethicone, caprylic/capric glycerides, tribehenin, butyrospermum parkii (shea butter),polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, tocopheryl acetate, vitis vinifera (grape) seed oil, gardenia flower extract, cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, olea europaea (olive) fruit oil, citronellol, geraniol, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, linalool, fragrance 31 COLOUR COSMETICS Media Partner In association with 5. Stila for E! Live from the Red Carpet - Solar Lighted Compact with All Over Shimmer Duo Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Stila Cosmetics Stila for E! Live from the Red Carpet Multi-Use USA 50.00 Product Description Stila’s Pro-Artists collaborated with the E! Entertainment team and created a collection of camera-ready beauty essentials. Launched for Spring 2012 is Solar Lighted Compact with All Over Shimmer Duo, which is described as an illuminated, solar-powered compact with mirror, containing a duo of translucent powder and illuminating shimmer powder that is designed to keep the user looking radiantly polished and perfected day and night. The eco-friendly translucent pressed powder is said to eliminate shine and provide a smooth, polished finish; whilst the ‘gorgeous’ all-over-shimmer powder is designed to enhance the complexion for a fresh, radiant glow. The solar panel is claimed to last approximately five years and can be fully charged up to one thousand times. The product is said to be perfect for touch-ups on the go, day or night and can also be refilled with Stila Illuminating Powder Foundation. The product retails in a pack made from recyclable material. Ingredients talc, dimethicone, nylon-12, magnesium stearate, phenoxyethanol, caprylyl glycol, tin oxide, +/- may contain (mica, titanium dioxide (CI 77891), iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499)), iln c111040 6. Haba - Cool Fit Powder II Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Haba Laboratories Haba Face Colour Cosmetics - Powder Japan 24.11 Product Description Haba Cool Fit Powder has been reformulated and repackaged. The limited edition cooling loose powder for summer is formulated with ‘aqua release capsules’ containing moisturising ingredients that burst upon contact with the skin to release a cooling sensation. It is claimed to tighten pores and leave skin refreshed, whilst naturally concealing dullness and pores. It features 65% moisturising elements, non-organic pigments, and prevents makeup from creasing. It was launched on 2nd June, 2012 for 1,890 yen. Ingredients water, polymethylsilsesquioxane, butylene glycol, silica, pentylene glycol, squalane, sodium hyaluronate, cerium oxide, polymethyl methacrylate, aluminum hydroxide, +/- may contain (titanium dioxide, iron oxides, talc, mica, methicone, dimethicone, hydrogen dimethicone) 32 HAIRCARE Products that promote and assist healthy hair and scalp continue to be popular in Eastern countries, and this healthcare focus is moving West. Treating the scalp as an extension of the skin has highlighted anti-dandruff, sensitivity and damage claims in shampoos, conditioners and treatments, encouraging consumers to think about their haircare needs from the roots down, rather than the ends up. Mane maintenance in the Western world has also gotten a boost from hair oils, a segment that originated in India, but has proven its global appeal. These products provide intense hydration, often through the use of botanical and herbal ingredients to moisturize, condition and care for the strands. The extensive heritage of hair oils is indicative of the products’ functionality, which appeals to consumers searching for the optimal haircare helpers. Convenience is the name of the game when it comes to haircare habits in the West and time saving strand solutions are entering Eastern markets in droves. The most prevalent example is dry shampoo, which provides cleansing capabilities without the use of water. This segment continues to evolve with the addition of advanced functionalities and unique scent profiles, and has sparked a new wave of convenient care in form of dry conditioners. The importance of scent and fragrance is also a key component of Westerners haircare routines. Interesting aromas have been added to products across the category, designed to appeal to consumers’ olfactory preferences, and an increased assortment of aromatic offerings is penetrating haircare aisles in the East. The inclusion of fragrance to haircare products can have sensory connotations, reinforcing functional attributes of shampoos, conditioners and styling products. 33 HAIRCARE Media Partner In association with 1. Kérastase Elixir Ultime - Oléo-Complexe + Rose Millénaire Delicately Beautifying Scented Oil Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: L’Oréal Kerastase Elixir Ultime Hair Treatments France 42.53 Product Description The Kérastase Elixir Ultime range is said to feature precious oils and rare perfumes to sublimate the hair texture, and the Oléo-Complexe, comprising of camellia, argan, maize and pracaxi oils. Available as part of the range is Oléo-Complexe + Rose Millénaire Haarveredelnde, Zartduftende Schönheitspflege (Oléo-Complexe + Rose Millénaire Delicately Beautifying Scented Oil), which is described as a multi-use treatment for fine and sensitised hair. It contains the Oléo-Complexe to make hair light and radiant; and Millenium rose extracts, rich in protecting and regenerating properties, and highly concentrated in vitamin E, to protect fine hair from weakening free radicals. According to the manufacturer, the product will leave a delicate fragrance with floral and fruity notes, and will make hair feel delicately nourished, shiny, light, regenerated, nourished and silky. It is suitable for damaged hair and is retailed in a pack featuring a Data Matrix code. Ingredients cyclopentasiloxane, alcohol denat., phenyl trimethicone, dimethiconol, zea mays (corn germ oil), argania spinosa oil (argania spinosa kernel oil), camellia oleifera seed oil, pentaclethra macroloba oil (pentaclethra macroloba seed oil), caprylic/capric triglyceride, benzyl alcohol, rosa canina flower extract, parfum (fragrance), C52520/1 2. Philip B. Russian Amber - Imperial Dry Shampoo Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Philip B Philip B Russian Amber Shampoo USA 28.00 Product Description Philip B. Russian Amber Imperial Dry Shampoo is described as a refreshing and rejuvenating dry shampoo that is designed to add some thickness, bounce and shine to the hair. The paraben- and phthalate-free product is claimed to have a lightweight texture that will create serious volume without sacrificing shine, and refresh tired, unwashed hair in minutes without drying time so it feels clean and fresh between shampoos. According to the manufacturer, the product is quick and easy to apply and can be used to extend the life of the user’s blowout, or to create gorgeous body and lift anytime, whilst also absorbing excess oil, neutralizing unwanted product build-up, and leaving dirty hair bouncy and gleaming. It features the “intoxicating”, spicy-warm scent of pure Russian amber, which is claimed to make the hair smell completely amazing in just one spritz. It is suitable for all hair types and has not been tested on animals. Ingredients propane, SD alcohol 40/alcohol denat., butane, isobutane, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate, cyclopentasiloxane, isopropyl myristate, stearalkonium hectorite, propylene carbonate, fragrance (parfum), benzyl benzoate, benzyl salicylate, citronellol,coumarin, hexyl cinnamaldehyde, hydroxycitronellol, linalool, hydroxy methylpentyl cyclohexencarboxaldehyde (lyral), 3-methyl-4- (2,6,6-tri-methyl-2cyclohexen-1-yi) -3-buten-2-one (methyl ionone gama) 34 HAIRCARE Media Partner In association with 3. Charles Worthington CW Salon at Home - Shine Booster Hair Shine Kit Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Charles Worthington Charles Worthington CW Salon at Home Hair Treatments UK 31.99 Product Description Charles Worthington CW Salon at Home Shine Booster Hair Shine Kit, for all types and coloured hair, is described as a lightweight treatment, designed to create incredible long lasting shine for noticeable softer, smoother and healthier hair after just one use. The product is formulated with unique Luminoil Complex and scientifically proven diamond light-reflecting compound that deeply penetrates into the cuticles of the hair to help boost colour radiance from the inside out. The pack contains: a 100ml Shine Glaze; a 75ml Shine Boosting Shampoo; a 75ml Shine Boosting Conditioner; 4 x shower caps; and instructions. Ingredients shine glaze: aqua (water), dipropylene glycol, cocoglycerides, capric/caprylic triglycerides, polyacrylamide (and) C13-14 isoparaffin (and) laureth-7, aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone, parfum (fragrance), dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, argania spinosa (argan) kernel oil, camelina sativa (camelina) seed oil, polymethylsilsesquioxane/ benzimidazole diamond copolymer, mica,tin oxide, magnesium chloride, magnesium nitrate, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, hexyl cinnamal, linalool, CI 77891 shine boosting shampoo: aqua (water), sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, laureth-4, parfum (fragrance), sodium chloride, polysorbate 20, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, citric acid, sodium benzoate, silicone quaternium-8, polyquaternium-10,quartz, panthenol, sodium hydroxide, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, linalool, citronellol shine boosting conditioner: aqua (water), cetyl alcohol, dimethicone, cetearyl alcohol, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, parfum (fragrance), citric acid, hydroxyethylcellulose, distearoylethyl dimonium chloride, dicaprylyl carbonate, polyester-11, quartz,panthenol, propylene glycol, magnesium chloride, magnesium nitrate, methylchloroisothiazolinone, methylisothiazolinone, hexyl cinnamal, linalool, citronellol 4. NuZen Gold - Herbal Hair Oil Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Nuzen Herbal Pvt Nuzen Gold Hair Treatments India 12.57 Product Description NuZen Gold Herbal Hair Oil has been repackaged, and is now available in a 250ml pack with a new design and providing extra 43% free. According to the manufacturer, the product provides the following benefits: generates new hair; prevents hair fall; strengthens hair roots; removes dandruff; softens hair; stops hair splits; improves blood circulation; instantly stops hair loss; penetrates through the cuticle to nourish the roots; and detoxifies the blood in scalp. It is also claimed to regulate sebum production; thicken hair; make it grow healthy and glowing; and protect from free radicals and environmental damage. Designed for both men and women, this ayurvedic product is suitable for vegetarians. Ingredients narikela (10g/100ml), methika (10g/100ml), japa pushpa (3g/100ml), japa patra (2g/100ml), amalaki (0.3g/100ml), vatada (0.5g/100ml), nimbukam (0.5ml/100ml), bhringaraja (2g/100ml), narikala tailam q.s, fragrance q.s 35 HAIRCARE Media Partner In association with 5. Shiseido Tsubaki - Bitsuyayu Camellia Beauty Shine Oil Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Shiseido Shiseido Tsubaki Hair Treatments Japan 16.08 Product Description Shiseido Tsubaki Bitsuyayu Camellia Beauty Shine Oil is a limited edition hair oil available exclusively on Shiseido’s website, Watashi Plus. It is formulated with prestigious camellia oil island in Nagasaki prefecture, naturally rich in hair repairing, moisturising and protective agents as well as nutrients. It is designed to deliver the ‘luxurious’ mix of benefits (repairing, radiance-boosting, protecting and moisturising) into the core of the hair. It is claimed to penetrate instantly into the hair and leave the surface silky and non-greasy, and prevent hair breakage and split ends caused by blowdryer heat and UV rays. It is said to have a luxurious scent of Tsubakimitsuka, a camellia honey scent. It was launched on 21st June, 2012 for 1,260 yen. Ingredients hydrogenated polyisobutene, dimethicone, camellia seed oil, dimethiconol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine,lecithin, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, tocopherol, BHT, fragrance, carotene 6. Kérastase Homme Capital Force - Anti-Hair Loss Roller Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: L’Oréal Kerastase Homme Capital Force Hair Treatments Japan 33.69 Product Description Kérastase Homme Capital Force is a luxury haircare collection designed to specifically meet the advanced hair needs of men, by maintaining healthy hair and combating the causes of thinning to leave hair stronger, thicker and refreshed. Available as part of the collection is Anti-Hair Loss Roller, which is designed to fight men’s primary hair concerns: receding hair lines; and thinning areas. The product is described as the first double-action roller with Système Taurine and a stimulating massage ball to help reduce the rate of hair loss and maintain the density by targeting thinning areas. Ingredients water, alcohol denat., arginine, citric acid, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, taurine, polyquaternium-11, niacinamide,calcium pantothenate, menthol, safflower glucoside, tocopheryl acetate, hexyl cinnamal, limonene, linalool,hydroxycitronellal, citronellol, biotin, fragrance, F.I.L. C47641/1 36 SKINCARE Think of Asian skincare, and the first thing that springs to mind is whitening products. An attractive proposition for Asian consumers in search of a pale, pure complexion, whitening has less appeal in the West, so the claim has transmuted into a more generalised promise of radiance and luminosity. The Fermentum trend has crossed back and forth between Asia and the West, with whitening and brightening claims unified under an anti-ageing banner. From a western complex of antioxidants and probiotics based on lactobacillus to a youthful complexion to the newer fermented ingredient coming through in Asia. Moba beau which is the Eastern trend that refers to handheld beauty devices receives additional claims in the west such as anti-ageing and advanced cleansing. An intriguing micro trend emerging in Japan has potential to shake up Western skincare markets in much the same way as BB creams. All-in-one gels roll the functions of a toner, milky lotion, beauty essence, make-up primer, moisturiser and mask into just one product. 37 SKINCARE Media Partner In association with 1. Givenchy Le Soin Noir - Masque Dentelle Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price In Us Dollars: Parfums Givenchy Givenchy Le Soin Noir Face/Neck Care France 385.80 Product Description Givenchy Le Soin Noir Masque Dentelle is said to intertwine the performance of vital algae with the delicate intricacies of the finest lace. Inspired by haute couture, the ‘unique’ black lace mask featuring elegant floral motifs, is described as a masterpiece of refinement that is designed to fit the shape of the face as closely as possible. It is formulated with vital black algae sap concentrate, which helps defy the visible signs of ageing of the skin. The combination of the firming effect of the lace, positioning of motifs on strategic points and the properties of the vital black algae sap concentrate, is said to offer a maximum effect on cell communication and collagen recovery. It is claimed to adjust to face morphology to form a mechanical and biological “dual sheath” that boasts incredible restorative results. Ingredients aqua (water), glycerin, methyl trimethicone, alcohol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer,dimethicone, phenoxyethanol, jojoba oil PEG-150-esters, hydroxyethyl acrylates/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, avena sativa (oat) kernel extract, tocopheryl acetate, xanthan gum, parfum (fragrance), poloxamer 407, zea mays (corn) kernel extract,sodium citrate, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed soy flour, cassia alata leaf extract, hydrolyzed soy protein, polysorbate 60, sorbitan isostearate, citric acid, C12-14 pareth-12, caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride, glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice) root extract, alpha-isomethyl ionone, benzyl salicylate, hibiscus esculentus fruit extract, citronellol, geraniol, plankton extract, linalool, sodium myristoyl glutamate, aluminum hydroxide, BHT, mica, CI 77499 (iron oxides), CI 77891 (titanium dioxide) 2. Kaféllon - Cell Renew Snail BB Cream Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Kadilian Cosmetics Kaféllon Face/Neck Care China 21.97 Product Description Kaféllon Cell Renew Snail BB Cream is a multi-functional cream, featuring a smooth texture that contains snail secretion filtrate. It is said to softly blend with skin to whiten and nourish, conceal the appearance of imperfections, firm as well as leaving it smooth, tender, plump and flawless. The product is available in the shade 02, and comes with a free 1 x 7ml sample of Snail Repair Cream as a gift. Ingredients water, glycerin, phenyl methicone, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, triethylhexanoin, acrylates/dimethicone copolymer,cyclopentasiloxane, PEG-10 dimethicone, boron nitride, silica, polysilicone-11, disteardimonium hectorite, snail secretion filtrate,magnesium sulfate, methylparaben, propylparaben, titanium dioxide, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499 38 SKINCARE Media Partner In association with 3. Jean d’Arcel Renovar Phyto StemCell - Eye Lift Pads Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Jean d’Arcel Cosmétique Jean d’Arcel Renovar Phyto StemCell Eye Care Germany 38.58 Product Description Jean d’Arcel Renovar Phyto StemCell Eye Lift Pads feature an instantly firming, refreshing fleece matrix that is claimed to adhere to the eye contour like a second skin, immediately releasing an active complex of apple stem cell extract, moisturising bio ferment and hyaluronic acid. According to the manufacturer, the ophthalmologically-tested product positively influences the vitality and life cycle of skin’s stem cells, smoothes fine lines after a short time, and reduces dark circles and puffiness. It retails in a pack containing 10 x two pads. Ingredients aqua, glycerin, parfum, chondrus crispus powder, panthenol, sucrose, amorphophallus konjac root powder, phenoxyethanol, malus domestica fruit cell culture extract, lactic acid, dehydroacetic acid, benzoic acid, xanthan gum, sorbic acid, sodium hydroxide,chlorella vulgaris/lupinus albus protein ferment, pyrus malus extract, sodium hyaluronate, phospholipids, pectin 4. Pola B.A. Red Summer - Milk Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Pola Pola B.A. Red Summer Face/Neck Care Japan 104.54 Product Description Pola B.A Red Summer features updated, seasonal versions of Pola Red B.A skincare products specifically targeting the season’s skindamaging factors that contribute to skin ageing, with a focus on AGEs, an ageing complex consisting of merged protein and sugar. The Pola Red B.A Summer range features the same functions of the original Pola B.A range, in addition to a new whitening function. Products in this range are formulated with the company’s own moisturising horsetail extract and active whitening ingredient vitamin C derivative, with a gelee-like, replenishing texture. Available as part of the range is a quasi-drug, moisturising Milk, designed to spread with a replenishing texture to leave skin resilient, soft and firm. It is said to suppress melanin formation to prevent brown spots and freckles, and is formulated with ‘mist stretch veil’, which forms a firming protective layer on the skin by unifying with the lotion, and making the ingredients penetrate more effectively into the skin. Ingredients active ingredients: ascorbyl glucoside other ingredients: water, glycerin, butylene glycol, dimethicone, ursolic acid, potassium phosphate, lysine HCl, sodium hyaluronate-2, late-2 extract, arnica montana flower extract, equisetum arvense extract, sophora angustifolia extract, betula alba leaf extract, coptis japonica root extract, hypericum perforatum extract, hydrogenated soy phospholipids, ethanol, potassium hydroxide, carbomer, alpha-olefin oligomer, diglycerin, hardened oil, diphenyl dimethicone, PEG stearate, sorbitan stearate,polyoxyethylene stearyl ether butylene polyglycerol, sodium citrate, behenyl alcohol, petrolatum, xanthan gum, citric acid, vitamin E, polyglyceryl oleate, sucrose esters of fatty acids, silica, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, fragrance 39 SKINCARE Media Partner In association with 5. Dr.Ci:Labo Aqua-In-Derm - Super Essence Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Dr.Ci:Labo Dr.Ci:Labo Aqua-In-Derm Face/Neck Care Japan 70.90 Product Description Dr.Ci:Labo Aqua-In-Derm Super Essence, previously known as DN Essence, is now available with a new formulation. The boosting serum is designed to soften and prepare skin so that it can benefit optimally from the skincare products to follow. It is said to enhance the permeability of some beauty ingredients by up to 900% and to create a route for water transportation within skin, by removing old keratin with AHA, softening skin with ceramide polymer, creating a route with soy beans polymer and optimising the hydration cycle with Aquapolyn Surge ingredient to support the overall penetration of skincare ingredients, whilst filling skin with moisture. The formula is free from synthetic fragrance, colourant, mineral oil and preservatives. The bottle indicates to the user when there are approximately 10 pumps left. Ingredients water, butylene glycol, glycerin, DPG, acetyl hexapeptide-37, proline, alanine, glycine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, arginine,serine, phenylalanine, disodium adenosine triphosphate, placental protein, malus domestica fruit cell culture, sodium pca, urea, sea salt, lactobacillus/grape juice ferment filtrate, glyceryl amido ethyl methacrylate/ stearyl methacrylate copolymer, lysolecithin,tetrahydropiperine, fructose, glucose, sucrose, ribose, polianthes tuberosa polysaccharide, uncaria tomentosa extract, alangium salviifolium bark extract, oligopeptide-24, tocopherol, lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, PEG-30 soy sterol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower oil, citrus medica limonum (lemon) peel oil, eucalyptus globulus leaf oil, turpentine, menthol, 1,2-exanediol, maltodextrin, dextrin, xanthan gum, carbomer, pentasodium pentetate, ethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, hexylene glycol 6. Chanel - CC Cream Company: Brand: Sub-Category: Country: Price in US Dollars: Chanel Chanel Face/Neck Care China 91.24 Product Description Chanel CC Cream with SPF 30/PA +++ is a multi-functional skincare cream that has been specially developed for Asian sensitive skin. It features a lightweight and non-greasy texture, which contains active ingredients of natural origin including cornflower water and hyaluronic acid, to provide a complete correction. According to the manufacturer, it is said to soothe and moisturise, protect skin against external harmful elements and UVA/UVB rays, and help improve the appearance of redness, dark spots, enlarged pores and imperfections, for a natural, refreshed, hydrated and flawless complexion all day long. The non-comedogenic product has been ophthalmologically-, and dermatologically-tested, and is available in the shade 20 Beige. Ingredients aqua (water), titanium dioxide, methyl trimethicone, caprylyl methicone, phenyl trimethicone, polymethylsilsesquioxane, glycerin,PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, butylene glycol, talc, stearic acid, polymethyl methacrylate, dimethicone, alumina,centaurea cyanus flower water, phenoxyethanol, hamamelis virginiana (witch hazel) water, potassium sorbate, magnesium sulfate,trifluoropropyldimethyl/trimethylsiloxysilicate, C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate, parfum (fragrance), aluminum hydroxide, dimethicone crosspolymer, alcohol, thermus thermophillus ferment, silica, sodium hyaluronate, methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben,biotin, +/- may contain (ultramarines (CI 77007), iron oxides (CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499), titanium dioxide (CI 77891), mica) 40 Combined print & online subscription offer ✔ 12 monthly editions of SPC ✔ 365 days unrestricted online access to exclusive content at www.cosmeticsbusiness.co.uk ✔ 10% saving when you subscribe for two years To claim your discount visit www.hpcimedia.com and subscribe today APRIL 2011 VOL 84 NO 4 FEBRUARY 2011 VOL 84 NO 2 AUGUST 2011 VOL 84 NO 8 SUN CARE Regulatory pressures & multidimensionality TECHNOLOGY TESTING Stem cells, nano & space Colour control CHINA REPORT LATIN AMERICA Market, online & ingredients Primed for growth PACKAGING Design council Bath & shower Maintaining momentum EMULSIFERS Cold processing TESTING Rheological control INDIAN MARKET Boom time Programme details inside Ingredients Global top 50 brands Delivery systems hit the spot Programme details inside What's your brand value? 41 RAW MATERIALS GUIDE & COMPANY PROFILES THE LEADING GLOBAL BUSINESS PLATFORM FOR PERSONAL CARE INGREDIENTS Paris 16-18 April 2013 Formulating new beauty Meet 600+ ingredients suppliers from across the world Source 100s of innovative products and technologies NEW Discover 2 new zones: “Fragrance in Cosmetics” and “Testing & Regulation” NEW Find new product development ideas on the H²0 trail Update your scientific, regulatory and market knowledge with 80+ seminar sessions Organised by: Register for free, fast-track entry at www.in-cosmetics.com 42 Mibelle AG Biochemistry, 5033 Buchs/Switzerland, Phone +41 (0)62 836 17 31 DermCom Cell2cell communication for skin matrix repair DermCom provides a smart strategy for rejuvenating the skin matrix deep in the dermis. It achieves this by stimulating the communication between epidermal and dermal skin cells. This dialog which is crucial for a youthful appearance is mediated by growth factors that are impaired with age. As a consequence, the extracellular matrix loses its density. DermCom improves skin texture thanks to its growth-factor like activity. • Boosts collagen and elastin production • Stimulates natural growth factors of the skin • Renews the skin’s resilience and firmness DermCom is based on the bulbs of Crocus chrysanthus. Also known as «Cream Beauty», this flower is a universal symbol of rejuvenation and youthfulness. www.mibellebiochemistry.com